From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  1 12:55:13 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2023 11:55:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
References: <014a01d9ac4d$920fab60$b62f0220$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <014a01d9ac4d$920fab60$b62f0220$@sbcglobal.net>

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing
and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related
to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately
instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting
lever, I could not use a 3/16" dowel to line up the lever with the hole in
the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to
engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and
this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I
rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

'62 BT7

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From roggrace at telus.net  Sat Jul  1 21:16:11 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2023 20:16:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Rear Main Seal
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNpM1DPO6Lce-+c8GtbcxvXKkGNW2pbGjR=K5oVwWq=AA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiNpM1DPO6Lce-+c8GtbcxvXKkGNW2pbGjR=K5oVwWq=AA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiN_8Nb9AP-UTjzAPEw5uhRLhAERX68ieoV++H-RyYbhjA@mail.gmail.com>

Update ... just for interest.
So in the end gave up on ever clipping the 2 ends of the garter spring
together with the engine and crank in situ.
Made up a clip out of solid thin (0.03) brass (softer and easier to twist)
wire. The twisted ends folded easily into the seal groove. Even this task
lying on your back is not for the faint hearted !
Have yet to run the engine to test the new seal - holding thumbs.
rg






---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 4:23?PM
Subject: Rear Main Seal
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>


I would be interested to hear from those who have done this ...

My BJ8 has had the conversion done. The split lip seal was leaking after
some miles and years.
Now in the process of replacing it in situ.
All installed, but struggling with clipping the garter spring that goes
inside the lip seal together. Have both ends secured with twine, but still
lying on your back can't seem to get enough force on the flexible ends to
open up the tiny clip. Have ruined one spring trying to preassemble it and
slide it over the flange.
Any ideas or techniques appreciated.
rg
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  2 08:43:57 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 07:43:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <014a01d9ac4d$920fab60$b62f0220$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <014a01d9ac4d$920fab60$b62f0220$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <014a01d9ac4d$920fab60$b62f0220$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <2766990c-f9c5-72b6-0d4f-86d368a586ed@comcast.net>

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash 
switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a 
parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the 
accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging 
the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the 
scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple 
adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll 
look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. 
There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this 
switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a 
pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle 
stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then 
your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are 
correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' 
method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by 
measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating 
shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob


On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator 
> housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I 
> believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage 
> immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I 
> adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up 
> the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever 
> clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was 
> closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in 
> some articles.
>
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If 
> so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
> TIA,
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
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From rubino at truespeed.ca  Sun Jul  2 09:57:21 2023
From: rubino at truespeed.ca (rubino at truespeed.ca)
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2023 15:57:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
Message-ID: <em36a37c92-3e7b-46ef-8adb-50a5b0b84c41@p6520f>

I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels 
and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads 
but on highways I am working it all the time.

Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?

I have a BN-4, 1957.

Carl
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul  2 10:14:24 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 09:14:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
In-Reply-To: <em36a37c92-3e7b-46ef-8adb-50a5b0b84c41@p6520f>
References: <em36a37c92-3e7b-46ef-8adb-50a5b0b84c41@p6520f>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCC5tZC2SGd5EZG2pqAFy_+-a_pkhv1FuL+nee0vm9zo0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Carl,

The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box
used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be
a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in
rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can
rebuild the AH steering box.

Harold

On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels
> and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but
> on highways I am working it all the time.
>
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
>
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
>
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  2 11:24:21 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2023 17:24:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
Message-ID: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>

Bob's got the procedure. Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill)
under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening). Connect a 12V
test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle
switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out
at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and
work smoothly-no binding. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 Hi John,

 What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the
dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there
is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press
the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from
damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle
switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust
it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall
it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the
throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism
that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam
inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp,
set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

 If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so
then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve'
are correct. The
'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is
notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by
measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating
shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

 Bob

On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

	Hi All, 

	My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator
housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I
believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever. 

	When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage
immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I
adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up
the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever
clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was
closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in
some articles. 

	Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If
so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise? 

	Any other thoughts? 

	TIA, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7  


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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  2 11:29:00 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2023 17:29:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
Message-ID: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>

What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look
like? Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of
these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly
worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering
rod/front end issues . Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" 
To: rubino at truespeed.ca
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build

 Carl, 
 The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering
box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment
will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in
rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can
rebuild the AH steering box. 
 Harold  
 On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys 
wrote:
   I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the
wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty
roads but on highways I am working it all the time. 
 Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere? 
 I have a BN-4, 1957. 
 Carl  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
[5]http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [6]

Healeys at autox.team.net
 [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8]

 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
[10]

   

Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[5] http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
[6] http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
[7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
[10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  2 13:44:52 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 12:44:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
In-Reply-To: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>
References: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>
Message-ID: <62dc2e61-082a-4aaf-9e49-7a1775118288@comcast.net>

Replacement worms--and whole shafts--and pegs (I think) are available. 
Some pegs are fixed, some are spring-loaded or on bearings IIRC. But, 
yeah, check the linkages/tie-rod ends and bushings first.

On 7/2/2023 10:29 AM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look 
> like?? Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of 
> these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly 
> worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering 
> rod/front end issues . Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Harold Manifold"
> To: rubino at truespeed.ca
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
>
> Carl,
>
> The steering?box on our Austin-Healey is very similar?to the steering 
> box used on many highway and commercial?trucks. I know that comment 
> will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in 
> rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can 
> rebuild the AH steering box.
>
> Harold
>
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the
>     wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on
>     twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
>
>     Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
>
>     I have a BN-4, 1957.
>
>     Carl
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul  2 15:00:23 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:00:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
References: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
Message-ID: <02ed01d9ad28$38010bb0$a8032310$@sympatico.ca>

Perhaps I am missing something, but 0.040? is not equivalent to 3/16?

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:24 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob



On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 





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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul  2 15:02:24 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:02:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
In-Reply-To: <62dc2e61-082a-4aaf-9e49-7a1775118288@comcast.net>
References: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>
 <62dc2e61-082a-4aaf-9e49-7a1775118288@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <02f201d9ad28$807be2c0$8173a840$@sympatico.ca>

? and King pin bushes.  In general, I?d check out all the steering components before jumping to rebuilding the box.

 

Regards. Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 3:45 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build

 

Replacement worms--and whole shafts--and pegs (I think) are available. Some pegs are fixed, some are spring-loaded or on bearings IIRC. But, yeah, check the linkages/tie-rod ends and bushings first.

On 7/2/2023 10:29 AM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:

What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look like?  Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering rod/front end issues . Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Harold Manifold" 
To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca> 
Cc:  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build

Carl, 

 

The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can rebuild the AH steering box.

 

Harold

 

On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time. 

 

Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?

 

I have a BN-4, 1957.

 

Carl

 

 

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From alanwassermannc at gmail.com  Sun Jul  2 15:20:29 2023
From: alanwassermannc at gmail.com (Alan Wasserman)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:20:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 16, Issue 157
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1688320801.4794.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1688320801.4794.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <65463055-B69F-4FA6-846F-682E84CF15F5@gmail.com>

Is Healey Rick on our site?  If so, can we make contact.  Want to discuss some ideas re my ?66 BJ8 and respect your comments on BAT.  Let me know and thanks

> On Jul 2, 2023, at 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> 	healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	healeys-request at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-request at autox.team.net>
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	healeys-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-owner at autox.team.net>
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Overdrive disengages (John Spaur)
>   2. Fwd: Rear Main Seal (Roger Grace)
>   3. Re: Overdrive disengages (Bob Spidell)
>   4. steering box re-build (rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>)
>   5. Re: steering box re-build (Harold Manifold)
>   6. Re: Overdrive disengages (Hank Leach)
>   7. Re: steering box re-build (Hank Leach)
> 
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 1, 2023 at 2:55:13 PM EDT
> To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>  
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>  
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>  
> Any other thoughts?
>  
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> ?62 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net>>
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Rear Main Seal
> Date: July 1, 2023 at 11:16:11 PM EDT
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Update ... just for interest.
> So in the end gave up on ever clipping the 2 ends of the garter spring together with the engine and crank in situ.
> Made up a clip out of solid thin (0.03) brass (softer and easier to twist) wire. The twisted ends folded easily into the seal groove. Even this task lying on your back is not for the faint hearted !
> Have yet to run the engine to test the new seal - holding thumbs.
> rg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net>>
> Date: Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 4:23?PM
> Subject: Rear Main Seal
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> I would be interested to hear from those who have done this ...
> 
> My BJ8 has had the conversion done. The split lip seal was leaking after some miles and years. 
> Now in the process of replacing it in situ.
> All installed, but struggling with clipping the garter spring that goes inside the lip seal together. Have both ends secured with twine, but still lying on your back can't seem to get enough force on the flexible ends to open up the tiny clip. Have ruined one spring trying to preassemble it and slide it over the flange.
> Any ideas or techniques appreciated.
> rg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 10:43:57 AM EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.
> 
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section. 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>  
>> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>>  
>> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>>  
>> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>>  
>> Any other thoughts?
>>  
>> TIA,
>> John Spaur
>> ?62 BT7
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 11:57:21 AM EDT
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> 
> 
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
> 
> 
> 
> From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 12:14:24 PM EDT
> To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Carl,
> 
> The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can rebuild the AH steering box.
> 
> Harold
> 
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 1:24:21 PM EDT
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> 
> 
> Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Bob Spidell" 
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.
> 
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
> Hi All,
>  
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>  
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>  
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>  
> Any other thoughts?
>  
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> ?62 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 1:29:00 PM EDT
> To: "'Harold Manifold'" <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> Cc: "'rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>'" <rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>>, "'healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> 
> 
> What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look like?  Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering rod/front end issues . Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Harold Manifold" 
> To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>"
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> 
> Carl,
> 
> The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can rebuild the AH steering box.
> 
> Harold
> 
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys < <>healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/>  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>
> 
>  <>Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net>
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
Alan Wasserman
alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com







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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  2 15:51:22 2023
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 14:51:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Insulation
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMeupxucZ9Ljj5_bf7O=vwVi8J3-2TR5Zw0=XBSrNGo1A@mail.gmail.com>

Would like to get differing opinions on using Kool Mat as opposed to
Dynamat to quiet and cool down my BN2.  If you have installed Kool Mat in
your car, how was the installation and how effective is it?
Mike MacLean
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sun Jul  2 15:53:29 2023
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:53:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <02ed01d9ad28$38010bb0$a8032310$@sympatico.ca>
References: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
 <02ed01d9ad28$38010bb0$a8032310$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PLsSk8wa-U+Z+HK-0y7ac+p_BEhMiPfKAHi4A9ke+0SzQ@mail.gmail.com>

I noticed my overdrive disengaging when I've run it for a while on a hot
day, so this discussion has been interesting.

Are we discussing two different adjustments, one on the overdrive unit
itself,  using the 3/16 drill bit method described by Norm Nock in his tech
tips book, and the other the switch controlled by the accelerator pedal?

I'm interested in the former right now, so if you could clarify the .040 or
1/32 you're measuring, that would help.

thanks!

Tom


On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 5:10?PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Perhaps I am missing something, but 0.040? is not equivalent to 3/16?
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Hank
> Leach via Healeys
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:24 PM
> *To:* 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
>
>
>
> Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under
> the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light
> to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example
> in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment.
> Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no
> binding. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
>
> Hi John,
>
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash
> switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a
> parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the
> accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging
> the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the
> scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple
> adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll
> look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers.
> There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this
> switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a
> pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle
> stop plate and tighten the clamp.
>
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then
> your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are
> correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method
> is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring
> the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top
> of the O/D hydraulic section.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing
> and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related
> to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>
>
>
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately
> instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the
> setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the
> hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the
> OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the
> case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do
> I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>
>
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul  2 17:30:37 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 16:30:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Insulation
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMeupxucZ9Ljj5_bf7O=vwVi8J3-2TR5Zw0=XBSrNGo1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMeupxucZ9Ljj5_bf7O=vwVi8J3-2TR5Zw0=XBSrNGo1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCCWP2Rx3hXR0tZGUbqo0wnMYb=s6CXyZ+f3q_KgaeYhWA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

I have Kool Mat for heat insulation over Noico 80 mil for sound deadening.
The Kool Mat is easy to work with but I suggest making paper templates
before cutting it out. I bought the Kool Mat in bulk. I have about 700
miles on the car this summer and no heat issues in the cabin to speak of.
The other advantage to Kool Mat is it can get wet and won't mildew like
jute. See the picture attached nearing completion.

Harold
MkI BT7



On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 3:51?PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Would like to get differing opinions on using Kool Mat as opposed to
> Dynamat to quiet and cool down my BN2.  If you have installed Kool Mat in
> your car, how was the installation and how effective is it?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  2 18:01:31 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:01:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PLsSk8wa-U+Z+HK-0y7ac+p_BEhMiPfKAHi4A9ke+0SzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
 <02ed01d9ad28$38010bb0$a8032310$@sympatico.ca>
 <CANQM1PLsSk8wa-U+Z+HK-0y7ac+p_BEhMiPfKAHi4A9ke+0SzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019f01d9ad41$942dcf90$bc896eb0$@sbcglobal.net>

The problem with my O/D was not related to hot days. I would start the car cold and drive for a while. The O/D would work fine. But after everything was hot, if I disengaged the O/D, it would not reengage. Replacing the accumulator housing and piston fixed that.

 

There are two adjustments.

 

1. The setting lever that activates the O/D when the toggle switch is closed. That is the one that is supposed to be set with a 3/16 drill bit. The setting lever moves when the toggle switch is closed and the solenoid pulls the arm on the valve operating shaft up. The other end of the setting lever has a paddle inside of the O/D that pushes the shaft of the operating valve up. On top of that shaft is a ball bearing, plunger and spring. It can be accessed by removing a bolt on the top right hand side of the O/D. The movement of the ball bearing is supposed to be 1/32 or .040. I don?t have the equipment to measure the movement and 1/32 is not perceptible to my eyes. Never really has been.

 

This is my second healey, I had one in high school. I have never been able to use a drill bit to adjust the setting lever. If I line up the hole in the lever with the hole in the O/D casing, the O/D will not engage. For my O/D, the lever needs to be rotated clockwise slightly past the hole in the casing. Setting it is trial and error.

 

2. The throttle switch is controlled by the accelerator pedal. I need to adjust that switch because my O/D is disengaging as soon as I open the toggle switch on the dash board. It should not do that.

 

John

?62 Bt7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 2:53 PM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

I noticed my overdrive disengaging when I've run it for a while on a hot day, so this discussion has been interesting.

 

Are we discussing two different adjustments, one on the overdrive unit itself,  using the 3/16 drill bit method described by Norm Nock in his tech tips book, and the other the switch controlled by the accelerator pedal?

 

I'm interested in the former right now, so if you could clarify the .040 or 1/32 you're measuring, that would help.

 

thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 5:10?PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Perhaps I am missing something, but 0.040? is not equivalent to 3/16?

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:24 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> ' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob

On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 

 

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  2 18:15:24 2023
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 17:15:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Insulation
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCCWP2Rx3hXR0tZGUbqo0wnMYb=s6CXyZ+f3q_KgaeYhWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMeupxucZ9Ljj5_bf7O=vwVi8J3-2TR5Zw0=XBSrNGo1A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFP1XCCWP2Rx3hXR0tZGUbqo0wnMYb=s6CXyZ+f3q_KgaeYhWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEONr3n6aa_RVPx9Vc4qg+h5iR3CTUsaiX0Rd4_jVJy417g@mail.gmail.com>

Harold,
    Are you going to make cutouts for the seat runners?
Mike M

On Sun, Jul 2, 2023, 4:30 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> I have Kool Mat for heat insulation over Noico 80 mil for sound deadening.
> The Kool Mat is easy to work with but I suggest making paper templates
> before cutting it out. I bought the Kool Mat in bulk. I have about 700
> miles on the car this summer and no heat issues in the cabin to speak of.
> The other advantage to Kool Mat is it can get wet and won't mildew like
> jute. See the picture attached nearing completion.
>
> Harold
> MkI BT7
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 3:51?PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Would like to get differing opinions on using Kool Mat as opposed to
>> Dynamat to quiet and cool down my BN2.  If you have installed Kool Mat in
>> your car, how was the installation and how effective is it?
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>>
>>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  2 19:01:06 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 18:01:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
References: <86c5ca05dd6678bb0f921c16687c01c31e3a17fa@webmail>
Message-ID: <01ba01d9ad49$d950f680$8bf2e380$@sbcglobal.net>

I think I understand now.

 

I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test light goes out and then tighten everything up.

 

Correct?

 

-john

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob



On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 





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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  2 19:49:07 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2023 01:49:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
Message-ID: <c91e79fd93ded0f6c8dd2f7cded5cab31a55e108@webmail>

John- it is a .040 feeler gauge that goes under the throttle stop-
That is equivalent to about 1/5 throttle opening. That is to set the
throttle switch. 
The 3/16 drill bit is used to "static set" the position of the
solenoid lever. I agree, that position is not alway ideal. Fine
adjustment is made at the arm of the solenoid in which you get it to
the maximum lift and then when it drops it clears the base about 1/32"
at the same time gently pushing it in toward the casing to make sure
it does not bind. Solenoid plunger must drop freely. I can send you
that page from Haynes manual if it helps you to set the throttle
switch. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 6:01:07PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

	I think I understand now. 

	I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer
under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test
light goes out and then tighten everything up. 

	Correct? 

	-john 

	FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF
Hank Leach via Healeys
SENT: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
TO: 'Bob Spidell' 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages   

	Bob's got the procedure. Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill)
under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening). Connect a 12V
test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle
switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out
at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and
work smoothly-no binding. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Bob Spidell"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 Hi John,

 What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the
dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there
is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press
the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from
damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle
switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust
it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall
it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the
throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism
that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam
inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp,
set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

 If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so
then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve'
are correct. The
'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is
notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by
measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating
shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

 Bob

	On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:    

	Hi All, 

	My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator
housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I
believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever. 

	When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage
immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I
adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up
the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever
clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was
closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in
some articles. 

	Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If
so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise? 

	Any other thoughts? 

	TIA, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7  


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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  2 19:52:41 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2023 01:52:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
Message-ID: <441cbfbeb8698ca866f618bf66981ceaedfb93cf@webmail>

Typos happen...I'm trying to help the guy adjust the switch. OK 0.040
inches is 4/100 or 1/25 of an inch. A feeler gauge is used at the
throttle switch not a drill bit. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 2:03:11PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

	Perhaps I am missing something, but 0.040? is not equivalent to
3/16? 

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF Hank Leach via Healeys
SENT: Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:24 PM
TO: 'Bob Spidell' 
CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages   

	Bob's got the procedure. Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill)
under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening). Connect a 12V
test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle
switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out
at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and
work smoothly-no binding. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Bob Spidell"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 Hi John,

 What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the
dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there
is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press
the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from
damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle
switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust
it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall
it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the
throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism
that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam
inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp,
set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

 If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so
then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve'
are correct. The
'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is
notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by
measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating
shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

 Bob

	On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:    

	Hi All, 

	My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator
housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I
believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever. 

	When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage
immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I
adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up
the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever
clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was
closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in
some articles. 

	Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If
so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise? 

	Any other thoughts? 

	TIA, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7  


-------------- next part --------------
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  2 20:12:09 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2023 19:12:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <c91e79fd93ded0f6c8dd2f7cded5cab31a55e108@webmail>
References: <c91e79fd93ded0f6c8dd2f7cded5cab31a55e108@webmail>
Message-ID: <01c101d9ad53$c6539ec0$52fadc40$@sbcglobal.net>

Hank, I have the workshop manuals but the Haynes guide may have something I am missing so please send it.

 

I will try resetting the static setting, fine setting it and then the throttle switch

 

Thanks!

John

 

From: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 6:49 PM
To: 'John Spaur' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

John- it is a .040 feeler gauge that goes under the throttle stop- That is equivalent to about 1/5 throttle opening. That is to set the throttle switch. 

 

The 3/16 drill bit is used to "static set" the position of the solenoid lever. I agree, that position is not alway ideal. Fine adjustment is made at the arm of the solenoid in which you get it to the maximum lift and then when it drops it clears the base about 1/32" at the same time gently pushing it in toward the casing to make sure it does not bind. Solenoid plunger must drop freely. I can send you that page from Haynes manual if it helps you to set the throttle switch. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
Cc: healeys at autoxteam.net <mailto:healeys at autoxteam.net> 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 6:01:07PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

I think I understand now.

 

I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test light goes out and then tighten everything up.

 

Correct?

 

-john

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell"
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc:
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob

On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 

 

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Jul  3 05:51:19 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 07:51:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <01c101d9ad53$c6539ec0$52fadc40$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <c91e79fd93ded0f6c8dd2f7cded5cab31a55e108@webmail>
 <01c101d9ad53$c6539ec0$52fadc40$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <033501d9ada4$ae7d0150$0b7703f0$@sympatico.ca>

John, to temporarily simplify things you may want to consider taking the throttle switch out of the circuit until you get it working properly.  Simply connect the two terminals on it with a short wire.  This means the O/D will engage/disengage instantly (hopefully) and so you want to treat the O/D like another gear and use the clutch to take the strain off it.  Given the cost of rebuilding an O/D, using the clutch when engaging/disengaging is a good thing to do anyhow just to preserve it.  It is probably not a popular thing to do, but the throttle switch was disconnected when I bought my BT7 49 years ago.  I connected it up once but did not like it and disconnected it again by putting a short loop of wire between the terminals.  I just treat the O/D like another gear and use the clutch.  Just personal preference.

 

Regards, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Spaur via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:12 PM
To: 'Hank Leach' <gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Hank, I have the workshop manuals but the Haynes guide may have something I am missing so please send it.

 

I will try resetting the static setting, fine setting it and then the throttle switch

 

Thanks!

John

 

From: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 6:49 PM
To: 'John Spaur' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> >
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

John- it is a .040 feeler gauge that goes under the throttle stop- That is equivalent to about 1/5 throttle opening. That is to set the throttle switch. 

 

The 3/16 drill bit is used to "static set" the position of the solenoid lever. I agree, that position is not alway ideal. Fine adjustment is made at the arm of the solenoid in which you get it to the maximum lift and then when it drops it clears the base about 1/32" at the same time gently pushing it in toward the casing to make sure it does not bind. Solenoid plunger must drop freely. I can send you that page from Haynes manual if it helps you to set the throttle switch. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
Cc: healeys at autoxteam.net <mailto:healeys at autoxteam.net> 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 6:01:07PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

I think I understand now.

 

I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test light goes out and then tighten everything up.

 

Correct?

 

-john

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell"
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc:
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob

On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Jul  3 10:05:48 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2023 16:05:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
Message-ID: <007bc26b7ea00f0cad6d5ad98928f45f95fc0832@webmail>

Hi John-hope this helps-not an easy book to copy from (Roger Moment's
book has a spiral binding which lays flat) In any event, here is the
procedure to adjust the switch which as it says; once set its good
unless you muck with the carbs.
I hope everyone agrees with this procedure-no one seems to criticize
Haynes Manuals. I could not locate this diagram in the 100 workshop
book, but I have seen it; probably in the 100-6/3000 manual. Regards,
Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: "Bob Spidell"
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 7:12:15PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

	Hank, I have the workshop manuals but the Haynes guide may have
something I am missing so please send it. 

	I will try resetting the static setting, fine setting it and then the
throttle switch 

	Thanks! 

	John 

	FROM: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net]
SENT: Sunday, July 2, 2023 6:49 PM
TO: 'John Spaur' 
CC: 'Bob Spidell' ; 'healeys at autox.team.net' 
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages   

	John- it is a .040 feeler gauge that goes under the throttle stop-
That is equivalent to about 1/5 throttle opening. That is to set the
throttle switch.   

	The 3/16 drill bit is used to "static set" the position of the
solenoid lever. I agree, that position is not alway ideal. Fine
adjustment is made at the arm of the solenoid in which you get it to
the maximum lift and then when it drops it clears the base about 1/32"
at the same time gently pushing it in toward the casing to make sure
it does not bind. Solenoid plunger must drop freely. I can send you
that page from Haynes manual if it helps you to set the throttle
switch. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "John Spaur"
 To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
 Cc: healeys at autoxteam.net
 Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 6:01:07PM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages  

	I think I understand now. 

	I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer
under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test
light goes out and then tighten everything up. 

	Correct? 

	-john 

	 FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF
Hank Leach via Healeys
SENT: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
TO: 'Bob Spidell' 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages   

	Bob's got the procedure. Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill)
under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening). Connect a 12V
test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle
switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out
at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and
work smoothly-no binding. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Bob Spidell"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 Hi John,

 What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the
dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there
is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press
the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from
damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle
switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust
it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall
it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the
throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism
that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam
inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp,
set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

 If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so
then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve'
are correct. The
'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is
notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by
measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating
shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

 Bob  

	On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:    

	Hi All, 

	My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator
housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I
believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever. 

	When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage
immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I
adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up
the lever with the hole in the housing I had to advance the lever
clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was
closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in
some articles. 

	Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If
so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise? 

	Any other thoughts? 

	TIA, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7  

	
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jul  3 11:17:31 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 17:17:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
In-Reply-To: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>
References: <d988496d71cb4cc39066fd3cc9fa7f5856b6c1c0@webmail>
Message-ID: <657024565.1136671.1688404651021@mail.yahoo.com>

 Another source of wear or incorrect adjustment is the shims in the steering box.?Gary Hodson
    On Sunday, July 2, 2023 at 01:35:02 PM CDT, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look like?? Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering rod/front end issues . Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Harold Manifold" 
To: rubino at truespeed.ca
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build

Carl,
The steering?box on our Austin-Healey is verysimilar?to the steering box used on many highway andcommercial?trucks. I know that comment will not be a surpriseto many. There are firms that specialize inrebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment thatcan rebuild the AH steering box.
Harold
On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06?AMcarl and gerry rubino via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>wrote:

I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking upthe wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me ontwisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
I have a BN-4, 1957.
Carl_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From guido36 at att.net  Mon Jul  3 13:08:41 2023
From: guido36 at att.net (Guy Coldwell)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 12:08:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heat Insulation
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1688407201.31559.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1688407201.31559.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2D3E538D-BF0D-4BDD-9DDD-F9CFAF05929B@att.net>

I have used Koolmat for over twenty years in a number of different cars and would not use anything else for cockpit insulation.  There are specific precut kits for several big Healey models.  I use it in my thermally challenged BN1 and it is the best.  Cheers, Guy

> On Jul 3, 2023, at 11:04 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> ?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: steering box re-build (Bob Spidell)
>   2. Re: Overdrive disengages (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
>   3. Re: steering box re-build (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
>   4. Re: Healeys Digest, Vol 16, Issue 157 (Alan Wasserman)
>   5. Heat Insulation (Michael MacLean)
>   6. Re: Overdrive disengages (Tom)
>   7. Re: Heat Insulation (Harold Manifold)
>   8. Re: Overdrive disengages (John Spaur)
>   9. Re: Heat Insulation (Michael MacLean)
>  10. Re: Overdrive disengages (John Spaur)
>  11. Re: Overdrive disengages (Hank Leach)
>  12. Re: Overdrive disengages (Hank Leach)
>  13. Re: Overdrive disengages (John Spaur)
>  14. Re: Overdrive disengages (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
>  15. Re: Overdrive disengages (Hank Leach)
>  16. Re: steering box re-build (warthodson at aol.com)
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
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> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 


From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  3 14:29:41 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 13:29:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
In-Reply-To: <007bc26b7ea00f0cad6d5ad98928f45f95fc0832@webmail>
References: <007bc26b7ea00f0cad6d5ad98928f45f95fc0832@webmail>
Message-ID: <01fc01d9aded$192c7a60$4b856f20$@sbcglobal.net>

Hi Hank, I have the 100-6/3000 factory shop manual in it does not detail the procedure like the Haynes Manual. It has several important points.

 

1. Attach lead to terminal A and to a convenient earth point. If you attach to the fuse block the light will be bright or dim, but it never fully goes out when the setting is correct.

2. .048 is correct for my BT7.

 

With that information it was easy to adjust and all is perfect now. I can reinstall the tunnel, carpet and seats. It will be great to have the O/D fully functional.

 

Thanks for the help and sending the information.

 

John

 

 

From: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2023 9:06 AM
To: 'John Spaur' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Hi John-hope this helps-not an easy book to copy from (Roger Moment's book has a spiral binding which lays flat) In any event, here is the procedure to adjust the switch which as it says; once set its good unless you muck with the carbs.

 

I hope everyone agrees with this procedure-no one seems to criticize Haynes Manuals. I could not locate this diagram in the 100 workshop book, but I have seen it; probably in the 100-6/3000 manual. Regards, Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: "Bob Spidell"
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 7:12:15PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hank, I have the workshop manuals but the Haynes guide may have something I am missing so please send it.

 

I will try resetting the static setting, fine setting it and then the throttle switch

 

Thanks!

John

 

From: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 6:49 PM
To: 'John Spaur' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> >
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

John- it is a .040 feeler gauge that goes under the throttle stop- That is equivalent to about 1/5 throttle opening. That is to set the throttle switch. 

 

The 3/16 drill bit is used to "static set" the position of the solenoid lever. I agree, that position is not alway ideal. Fine adjustment is made at the arm of the solenoid in which you get it to the maximum lift and then when it drops it clears the base about 1/32" at the same time gently pushing it in toward the casing to make sure it does not bind. Solenoid plunger must drop freely. I can send you that page from Haynes manual if it helps you to set the throttle switch Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "John Spaur"
To: "Hank Leach", "Bob Spidell"
Cc: healeys at autoxteam.net <mailto:healeys at autoxteam.net> 
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 6:01:07PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

I think I understand now.

 

I need to loosen the arm on the throttle switch, put a 3/16 spacer under the throttle stop and adjust the throttle switch so the test light goes out and then tighten everything up.

 

Correct?

 

-john

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 10:24 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

 

Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell"
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc:
Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages

Hi John,

What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.

If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.

Bob

On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Hi All,

 

My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.

 

When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16? dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.

 

Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Any other thoughts?

 

TIA,

John Spaur

?62 BT7

 

 

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  3 14:42:54 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 13:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>

Hi All,

 

The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right turn
signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state type. 

 

When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in the relay
box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do not flash.

 

What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where should I check?

 

Thank you,

John

'62 BT7

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul  3 15:36:09 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 17:36:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
In-Reply-To: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>

Do both brake lights work?

On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:19 p.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right turn
> signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state type.
>
>
>
> When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in the relay
> box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do not flash.
>
>
>
> What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where should I
> check?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  3 15:51:51 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 14:51:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <020e01d9adf8$94174d30$bc45e790$@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, both work.

 

From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2023 2:36 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working

 

Do both brake lights work?

 

On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:19 p.m John Spaur via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Hi All,

 

The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right turn signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state type. 

 

When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in the relay box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do not flash.

 

What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where should I check?

 

Thank you,

John

?62 BT7

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul  3 16:06:55 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 18:06:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
In-Reply-To: <020e01d9adf8$94174d30$bc45e790$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
 <020e01d9adf8$94174d30$bc45e790$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ5OTbYw0H3wpA7kn9ti7J5uyBJyk=oRDNDuoa_=G8daw@mail.gmail.com>

So if the signal relay clicks when you select either left or right(
ignition on) then the most likely cause is misadjustment of the points in
the signal relay.
Bit of a fiddle to adjust and very difficult to do without removing the
relay.

M

On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:51 p.m. John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Yes, both work.
>
>
>
> *From:* Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, July 3, 2023 2:36 PM
> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
>
>
>
> Do both brake lights work?
>
>
>
> On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:19 p.m John Spaur via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right turn
> signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state type.
>
>
>
> When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in the relay
> box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do not flash.
>
>
>
> What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where should I
> check?
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  3 16:15:58 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 15:15:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5OTbYw0H3wpA7kn9ti7J5uyBJyk=oRDNDuoa_=G8daw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
 <020e01d9adf8$94174d30$bc45e790$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ5OTbYw0H3wpA7kn9ti7J5uyBJyk=oRDNDuoa_=G8daw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021501d9adfb$f21fd7f0$d65f87d0$@sbcglobal.net>

Ok, I hate fiddling with the relay. As you state, very difficult to get too!

 

Thanks,

J

 

From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2023 3:07 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working

 

So if the signal relay clicks when you select either left or right( ignition on) then the most likely cause is misadjustment of the points in the signal relay. 

Bit of a fiddle to adjust and very difficult to do without removing the relay.

 

M

 

On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:51 p.m. John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> > wrote:

Yes, both work.

 

From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> ] 
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2023 2:36 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working

 

Do both brake lights work?

 

On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:19 p.m John Spaur via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Hi All,

 

The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right turn signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state type. 

 

When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in the relay box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do not flash.

 

What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where should I check?

 

Thank you,

John

?62 BT7

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  3 17:42:49 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2023 16:42:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Left turn signal not working
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <020101d9adee$f1e8d550$d5ba7ff0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7L+=BP6jD8t9-BCc_t4DN982ZQjwm1_+Kom2zrKxoJLqUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <452f0737-3659-f373-6a71-46cf1251aa10@comcast.net>

Did this just start; i.e. was it working properly before?

Probably not too relevant, but I completely wired my BN2's bare chassis 
with a new harness and the shop manual's schematic. Everything worked 
perfectly, except the rear turn signals (IIRC, one worked and one 
didn't--it's been 10 years or more). We double-checked everything, and 
took the switch box apart and inspected everything, checked the flasher, 
etc. It took several days of frustrating troubleshooting, but I finally 
discovered the *brand new* rear harness had an improperly color-coded wire.


On 7/3/2023 2:36 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Do both brake lights work?
>
> On Mon., Jul. 3, 2023, 5:19 p.m. John Spaur via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Hi All,
>
>     The wiring harness is in great shape, the brake lights and right
>     turn signals work and the flasher is a relatively new solid state
>     type.
>
>     When I actuate the signal to the right I can hear the points in
>     the relay box. Same for the left signal but the front and back do
>     not flash.
>
>     What is the most likely cause? If it is a poor ground, where
>     should I check?
>
>     Thank you,
>
>     John
>
>     ?62 BT7
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From pensenwood at aol.com  Wed Jul  5 15:23:37 2023
From: pensenwood at aol.com (pensenwood at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2023 21:23:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] help to unsubscribe
References: <1782165321.47826.1688592217700.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1782165321.47826.1688592217700@mail.yahoo.com>


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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  5 20:51:37 2023
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2023 22:51:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] help to unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <1782165321.47826.1688592217700@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1782165321.47826.1688592217700.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1782165321.47826.1688592217700@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <033001d0-bc92-d87b-5522-aa2abf9f7839@earthlink.net>

There's a link to unsubscribe at the bottom of every message you receive.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 7/5/23 17:23, pensenwood--- via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sun Jul  9 04:21:16 2023
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 22:21:16 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
Message-ID: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>

Learned gentlemen,

 

The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.
I?ve owned the car for 45 years.

 

A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.

I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD import
some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180

The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t
know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.

 

Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.

 

That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a spare.

They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
expensive.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul  9 06:52:32 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 08:52:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKQaz468EL4xJmeg_YAxu0r7XetT40Z=JVyFfc5tsco6g@mail.gmail.com>

The outside diameter of the originals is 3.2" Mark.

M

On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 6:28 a.m. Mark Donaldson, <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

> Learned gentlemen,
>
>
>
> The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.
> I?ve owned the car for 45 years.
>
>
>
> A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
> original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.
>
> I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
> import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180
>
> The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t
> know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.
>
>
>
> Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.
>
>
>
> That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a spare.
>
> They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
> expensive.
>
>
>
> Fingers crossed.
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  9 11:21:52 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2023 17:21:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
Message-ID: <d0f5f4d70f40419e58e6eb5a8e3470c87bcf44b9@webmail>

Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100. The pulley mounted to
the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup was
askew. The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs true.
Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and other
saloons of the period, I could see how they got mixed up. Regards,
Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Mark Donaldson" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

	Learned gentlemen, 

	The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter. I believe it to be
original. I?ve owned the car for 45 years. 

	A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?. He thinks it
is original. I don?t. It got me thinking. 

	I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
import some 30 years ago. BN1L 226180 

	The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I
don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car
on the road. 

	Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct. 

	That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
spare. 

	They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
expensive. 

	Fingers crossed. 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul  9 17:05:44 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 23:05:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
References: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone identify the part in the attached photo for me? It is stamped "718" which is the body # for my 100.A photo showing where it is mounted would also be helpful.Thanks,Gary Hodson
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From ahmg at aol.com  Sun Jul  9 17:48:18 2023
From: ahmg at aol.com (KENNETH FLEMNG)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 19:48:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
In-Reply-To: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7A55001C-9DA1-41A8-8F36-2E03695A07F7@aol.com>

Looks to be a boot hinge  support for an aluminum boot.
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2023, at 7:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Can someone identify the part in the attached photo for me? It is stamped "718" which is the body # for my 100.
> A photo showing where it is mounted would also be helpful.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> <100 unidentified object 1.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> 
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  9 18:19:48 2023
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 00:19:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
In-Reply-To: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1784039831.1731148.1688948388588@mail.yahoo.com>

 I think it's the Prop rod to trunk lid bracket. I could be wrong as I'm not looking at the car right now.Ray

    On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 04:30:16 PM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Can someone identify the part in the attached photo for me? It is stamped "718" which is the body # for my 100.A photo showing where it is mounted would also be helpful.Thanks,Gary Hodson_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From ahmg at aol.com  Sun Jul  9 18:56:04 2023
From: ahmg at aol.com (KENNETH FLEMNG)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 20:56:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
In-Reply-To: <1784039831.1731148.1688948388588@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1784039831.1731148.1688948388588@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ED73A87-B78A-44EE-A778-0F7232998F16@aol.com>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul  9 19:15:51 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 21:15:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
In-Reply-To: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <785702014.1367212.1688943945175.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <785702014.1367212.1688943945175@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+W_fiGZzyigYf404RP=awYO_1U2DvvHRWtPKCv--mE1A@mail.gmail.com>

Yes it is the 2nd version of the prop mount whicklh was used on the
aluminium boot lids.

M

On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 7:11 p.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can someone identify the part in the attached photo for me? It is stamped
> "718" which is the body # for my 100.
> A photo showing where it is mounted would also be helpful.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul  9 19:26:05 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 01:26:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
Message-ID: <25644373c65fe6746b77a25c616ac5a5f2f7e00e@webmail>

Looking in my 100 records that body number, from batch 4467 is
assigned to chassis #147436 with engine #139718. I do not have
location or record of the owner of the car, however it appears that
the original destination was Canada and was invoiced on 11-28-53.
In addition to the body number stamp there may be a "J" on the prop as
well. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Ray Juncal via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net", "warthodson at aol.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 6:02:44PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 part

  I think it's the Prop rod to trunk lid bracket. I could be wrong as
I'm not looking at the car right now. Ray

    On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 04:30:16 PM PDT, warthodson--- via
Healeys  wrote: 

     Can someone identify the part in the attached photo for me? It is
stamped "718" which is the body # for my 100. A photo showing where it
is mounted would also be helpful. Thanks, Gary Hodson   
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sun Jul  9 20:20:08 2023
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 14:20:08 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <d0f5f4d70f40419e58e6eb5a8e3470c87bcf44b9@webmail>
References: <d0f5f4d70f40419e58e6eb5a8e3470c87bcf44b9@webmail>
Message-ID: <000701d9b2d5$0cea7350$26bf59f0$@xtra.co.nz>

Hank and Michael,

Thanks for your replies.

Now I am curious.  I am 99.9% sure my generator pulley is original. The car was sold new in Guernsey in the Channel Islands.  

It is BN2 232844    11 June 1956 and the engine has never been out of the car, though I gave the generator a tidy-up 10 years ago.

As Hank points out, it is possible that various diameters may have been interchanged with other models during 100 production.

 

So our local Auckland member with a 3? OD pulley may well have the right one for his 1955 BN1

Michael, I?ll have him measure it again to see if in fact it is a 3.2? pulley . . . and not 3?

 

Question:  Might my 3?? OD pulley be correct for a late production BN2?

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net> 
Sent: Monday, 10 July 2023 5:22 AM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

 

Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100.  The pulley mounted to the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup was askew.   The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs true. Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and other saloons of the period, I could see how they got mixed up. Regards, Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Mark Donaldson" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

Learned gentlemen,

The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.  I?ve owned the car for 45 years.

A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.

I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180

The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.

Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.

That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a spare.

They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather expensive.

Fingers crossed.

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  9 20:34:40 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 19:34:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Drive Train for Sale
Message-ID: <ce81af06-8e79-89a0-0eb2-c6e05f1d48db@comcast.net>

This is a public service announcement only (NFI). Not Mille Miglia, but 
I'd just hate to see this go to the scrapper. Lots of apparently usable 
parts.

https://www.ahexp.com/forum/buy-sell-and-trade-forum.7/1957-100-6-engine-and-transmission.278322/#msg-278322

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul  9 21:13:01 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2023 23:13:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <000701d9b2d5$0cea7350$26bf59f0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <d0f5f4d70f40419e58e6eb5a8e3470c87bcf44b9@webmail>
 <000701d9b2d5$0cea7350$26bf59f0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJVioE8M6M27s6T=LfTLZHuszLvDcupyksdk4jOMsLH0w@mail.gmail.com>

There is only 1 part number for all 100 generator pulleys so pretty
unlikely that there were different diameters.
Lots of exchange generators back in the day.
My BN2 which is very close to yours has only 27K miles and the generator
date is correct 5 /56.
What is the date on yours?

M


On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 10:20 p.m. Mark Donaldson, <
ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:

> Hank and Michael,
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> Now I am curious.  I am 99.9% sure my generator pulley is original. The
> car was sold new in Guernsey in the Channel Islands.
>
> It is BN2 232844    11 June 1956 and the engine has never been out of the
> car, though I gave the generator a tidy-up 10 years ago.
>
> As Hank points out, it is possible that various diameters may have been
> interchanged with other models during 100 production.
>
>
>
> So our local Auckland member with a 3? OD pulley may well have the right
> one for his 1955 BN1
>
> Michael, I?ll have him measure it again to see if in fact it is a 3.2?
> pulley . . . and not 3?
>
>
>
> *Question:*  Might my 3?? OD pulley be correct for a late production BN2?
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
>
>
> *From:* Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, 10 July 2023 5:22 AM
> *To:* 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> *Cc:* 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
>
>
>
> Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100.  The pulley mounted to
> the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup was
> askew.   The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs true.
> Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and other saloons
> of the period, I could see how they got mixed up. Regards, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Mark Donaldson"
> To: "Healey List"
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
>
> Learned gentlemen,
>
> The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.
> I?ve owned the car for 45 years.
>
> A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
> original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.
>
> I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
> import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180
>
> The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t
> know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.
>
> Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.
>
> That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a spare.
>
> They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
> expensive.
>
> Fingers crossed.
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sun Jul  9 21:57:06 2023
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 15:57:06 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJVioE8M6M27s6T=LfTLZHuszLvDcupyksdk4jOMsLH0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d0f5f4d70f40419e58e6eb5a8e3470c87bcf44b9@webmail>
 <000701d9b2d5$0cea7350$26bf59f0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7LJVioE8M6M27s6T=LfTLZHuszLvDcupyksdk4jOMsLH0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701d9b2e2$98fa6500$caef2f00$@xtra.co.nz>

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: Monday, 10 July 2023 3:13 PM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Cc: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

 

There is only 1 part number for all 100 generator pulleys so pretty unlikely that there were different diameters.   Agreed  1B 1727

Lots of exchange generators back in the day.  The car was imported to NZ in 1964.  Surely a generator wouldn?t have packed up in just 8 years?

 

My BN2 which is very close to yours has only 27K miles and the generator date is correct 5 /56.

What is the date on yours?  11 55   . . .  and number 22483A, which is correct for a BN2

 

M

 

I realise one cannot always make an accurate measurement from a photo, but this Moss repro pulley looks, to my eye, to be more than 3.25? OD

Now I am totally confused.



 

 

On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 10:20 p.m. Mark Donaldson, <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> > wrote:

Hank and Michael,

Thanks for your replies.

Now I am curious.  I am 99.9% sure my generator pulley is original. The car was sold new in Guernsey in the Channel Islands.  

It is BN2 232844    11 June 1956 and the engine has never been out of the car, though I gave the generator a tidy-up 10 years ago.

As Hank points out, it is possible that various diameters may have been interchanged with other models during 100 production.

So our local Auckland member with a 3? OD pulley may well have the right one for his 1955 BN1

Michael, I?ll have him measure it again to see if in fact it is a 3.2? pulley . . . and not 3?

Question:  Might my 3?? OD pulley be correct for a late production BN2?

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net> > 
Sent: Monday, 10 July 2023 5:22 AM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> >
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

 

Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100.  The pulley mounted to the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup was askew.   The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs true. Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and other saloons of the period, I could see how they got mixed up. Regards, Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Mark Donaldson" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

Learned gentlemen,

The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.  I?ve owned the car for 45 years.

A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.

I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180

The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.

Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.

That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a spare.

They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather expensive.

Fingers crossed.

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jul 10 07:25:16 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 13:25:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 part
In-Reply-To: <25644373c65fe6746b77a25c616ac5a5f2f7e00e@webmail>
References: <25644373c65fe6746b77a25c616ac5a5f2f7e00e@webmail>
Message-ID: <1147222784.1531697.1688995516188@mail.yahoo.com>

 Thanks to everyone for all the replies & information. I do have an aluminum boot lid. I will look for the mounting holes when I get into the garage later today.Thanks, again,Gary H?
    On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 08:26:08 PM CDT, Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 Looking in my 100 records that body number, from batch 4467 is assigned to chassis #147436 with engine #139718. I do not have location or record of the owner of the car, however it appears that the original destination was Canada and was invoiced on 11-28-53.
In addition to the body number stamp there may be a "J" on the prop as well. Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Ray Juncal via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net", "warthodson at aol.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 6:02:44PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 part

I think it's the Prop rod totrunk lid bracket. I could be wrong as I'm not looking at the carright now.Ray

On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 04:30:16 PM PDT, warthodson--- viaHealeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Can someone identify the part in the attached photofor me? It is stamped "718" which is the body # for my 100.A photo showing where it is mounted would also behelpful.Thanks,Gary Hodson_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Jul 10 08:26:20 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 15:26:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
Message-ID: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith's heater. Normal insofar as it never
seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.

We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning off
the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the heater.

Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess of
rusty crud?

Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running through
the system?

Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the local
boozer?

Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!

I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!)
and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm..

The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap
off...

The tap does work, before you all shout at once!

Simon

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Jul 10 09:21:10 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 16:21:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Driver's handbooks
Message-ID: <001101d9b342$28fccd50$7af667f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

 

A fellow member of our club, ?The Healey Driver?s Club?, has a few bits and
pieces that he is endeavouring to sell on behalf of the widow of the owner
of a small local garage. (I know this sounds like a sob story, but it?s
true!). Anyhow, I imagine that the garage was somehow or other linked to
BMC, perhaps a small dealership with a spare parts dept. So, sitting on a
window ledge was a small pile of Big Healey handbooks some of which he?s
disposed of, including one book and one addenda to me. Here is a copy of his
email to me which I said I?d pass on to you guys. As to postage, that will
depend on where you are but, let?s say, he?ll use the regular Royal Mail so
the price won?t be too silly. QUOTE:-

Below are the details of the two remaining AH Handbooks plus the 2 Addendums

 

[A] HANDBOOKS

 

[1] Austin Healey 3000 Driver's Hand book 

 

 Series BN7 and BT7  .Part Number AKD 1102B.

This one has the Addendum Edition AKD1102A and AKD1192E Front brake
adjustment pasted inside the front cover

 

[2] Austin Healey 3000 Mks 1 & 2 Driver's Hand book. Part Number 1102E

 

 Mks 1 & 2  Series BN7 and BT7

 

Mk2- SPORTS CONVERTIBLE Series BJ7

 

Both books are in excellent condition with unmarked pages. The front covers
just show signs of being stored/stacked but are free from oily marks

 

[B] ADDENDUMS

 

[1] For AH3000 Driver's Handbook. Part number  AKD1981  

 

Series BN7 AND BT7 Mk2 .For use with Driver's handbook AKD1102B

 

Also glued to it is the small addendum AKD Part Number 1102E/1

 

Raising the Hood of the Convertible model

 

[2] For AH3000 Mk2 Sports Convertible Series BJ7

 

Part number AKD3253B

 

To be read in conjunction with Driver's hand book AKD1102D

 

Both of these are in unmarked condition, no oily thumbprints. As is usual
with items this age, the staples have gone rusty but are intact

 

 

[C] PRICES

 

[1] Handbooks:?25 each plus p&p

 

[2] Addendums:?10 each plus p&p but if bought with the Handbook, the price
is ?5.00 plus p&p. This will be cheaper if bought together

 

 

Simon, hope these are sufficient details. Could photo them and send to you
if you  think this may help?

UNQUOTE

The attached photos are of my copy
..the book, the addenda sheets plus BMC
photocopies of seat belt fittings.

Simon

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 10 09:32:52 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 11:32:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>

Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine will only ensure that
the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other detrimental
effects.
The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump and I
always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter storage before
it's cold enough to need the heater.

M

On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as it never
> seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning
> off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the
> heater.
>
> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess of
> rusty crud?
>
> Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running
> through the system?
>
> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the local
> boozer?
>
> Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>
> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!)
> and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm?.
>
> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap
> off?..
>
> The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 10 09:36:40 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 17:36:40 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>

Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on a 
very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise 
expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for some 
extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). 
However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>
> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as it 
> never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about 
> turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the 
> cabin for the heater.
>
> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a 
> mess of rusty crud?
>
> Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running 
> through the system?
>
> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the 
> local boozer?
>
> Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>
> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans 
> Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we 
> were quite warm?.
>
> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that 
> tap off?..
>
> The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Jul 10 10:33:42 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 16:33:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
Message-ID: <14a9291c6807a03b391da782b39bd972d26facfd@webmail>

Guys-there are any number of aftermarket or rebuilt generators over
the years. Good chance that someone jazzed up the generator to get
more output by changing the size of the pulley. I think that was the
case with mine, as the car was raced, so electrical output was
important.
I will look up the generator parts in the Lucas charts, but more than
likely there is no mention of diameter size. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Mark Donaldson" 
To: "Michael Salter"
Cc: "Hank Leach", "Healey List"
Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 8:57:14PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

	FROM: Michael Salter 
SENT: Monday, 10 July 2023 3:13 PM
TO: Mark Donaldson 
CC: Hank Leach ; Healey List 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter  

	There is only 1 part number for all 100 generator pulleys so pretty
unlikely that there were different diameters.   Agreed 1B 1727  

	Lots of exchange generators back in the day.  The car was imported to
NZ in 1964. Surely a generator wouldn?t have packed up in just 8
years? 

	My BN2 which is very close to yours has only 27K miles and the
generator date is correct 5 /56.   

	What is the date on yours?  11 55 . . . and number 22483A, which is
correct for a BN2   

	M 

	I realise one cannot always make an accurate measurement from a
photo, but this Moss repro pulley looks, to my eye, to be more than
3.25? OD 

	Now I am totally confused. 

	On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 10:20 p.m. Mark Donaldson,  wrote:     

	Hank and Michael, 

	Thanks for your replies. 

	Now I am curious. I am 99.9% sure my generator pulley is original.
The car was sold new in Guernsey in the Channel Islands.  

	It is BN2 232844 11 June 1956 and the engine has never been out of
the car, though I gave the generator a tidy-up 10 years ago. 

	As Hank points out, it is possible that various diameters may have
been interchanged with other models during 100 production. 

	So our local Auckland member with a 3? OD pulley may well have the
right one for his 1955 BN1 

	Michael, I?ll have him measure it again to see if in fact it is a
3.2? pulley . . . and not 3? 

	 QUESTION:  Might my 3?? OD pulley be correct for a late
production BN2? 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ 

	FROM: Hank Leach 
SENT: Monday, 10 July 2023 5:22 AM
TO: 'Mark Donaldson' 
CC: 'Healey List' 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter   

	Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100. The pulley mounted
to the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup
was askew. The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs
true. Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and
other saloons of the period, I could see how they got mixed up.
Regards, Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Mark Donaldson"
 To: "Healey List"
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
 Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter  

	Learned gentlemen, 

	The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter. I believe it to be
original. I?ve owned the car for 45 years. 

	A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?. He thinks it
is original. I don?t. It got me thinking. 

	I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
import some 30 years ago. BN1L 226180 

	The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I
don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car
on the road. 

	Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct. 

	That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
spare. 

	They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
expensive. 

	Fingers crossed. 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 10 11:23:57 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 10:23:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>

Note the brass valve on the block is quite fragile and if it hasn't been 
'exercised' recently it's likely stuck and you stand a good chance of 
snapping-off the small handle if you manhandle it. Moss has the complete 
valve at $150, and replacement handles are available. If it doesn't move 
easily I recommend soaking with a good penetrant oil and carefully 
applying some heat, and work it little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has 
the 'OFF' direction embossed in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will 
work as a handle in a pinch. IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction 
embossed in the body near the handle.

Both valves on the 100s are large and robust, though still can get stuck 
due to corrosion.


On 7/10/2023 8:32 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine will only ensure 
> that the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other 
> detrimental effects.
> The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump 
> and I always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter 
> storage before it's cold enough to need the heater.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as
>     it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
>     We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about
>     turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the
>     cabin for the heater.
>
>     Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a
>     mess of rusty crud?
>
>     Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water
>     running through the system?
>
>     Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to
>     the local boozer?
>
>     Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>
>     I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans
>     Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation,
>     we were quite warm?.
>
>     The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning
>     that tap off?..
>
>     The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>
>     Simon
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 10 11:36:28 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 10:36:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>

Ah, good point Kees. On a road trip coming out of Death Valley on a 
115degF day climbing the Panamint Mountains my BJ8's temp started 
climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned the heater on full blast--not 
fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady at 212 until we crested 
the mountains and it started to come down and we were back to just 
miserable.

I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if you 
think of it, turn it on if the weather turns.


On 7/10/2023 8:36 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>
> Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on a 
> very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise 
> expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for 
> some extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and 
> SWMBO). However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>>
>> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as it 
>> never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>>
>> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about 
>> turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the 
>> cabin for the heater.
>>
>> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a 
>> mess of rusty crud?
>>
>> Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running 
>> through the system?
>>
>> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the 
>> local boozer?
>>
>> Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>>
>> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans 
>> Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we 
>> were quite warm?.
>>
>> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that 
>> tap off?..
>>
>> The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 10 13:43:30 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 15:43:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+U3Sz6wU1F0k0nx9JH7oR51tBXFnuTgg336n3Ws+LVzg@mail.gmail.com>

Actually Bob, as an aside, the thread on the handle is actually 12- 32 ...
the only 12 - 32 thread on a Healey as far as I'm  aware.
I know you absolutely couldn't continue with life as is without that
incredibly important nugget of information. ???

M


On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 3:03 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Note the brass valve on the block is quite fragile and if it hasn't been
> 'exercised' recently it's likely stuck and you stand a good chance of
> snapping-off the small handle if you manhandle it. Moss has the complete
> valve at $150, and replacement handles are available. If it doesn't move
> easily I recommend soaking with a good penetrant oil and carefully applying
> some heat, and work it little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF'
> direction embossed in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will work as a
> handle in a pinch. IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction embossed in the
> body near the handle.
>
> Both valves on the 100s are large and robust, though still can get stuck
> due to corrosion.
>
>
> On 7/10/2023 8:32 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine will only ensure
> that the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other detrimental
> effects.
> The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump and I
> always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter storage before
> it's cold enough to need the heater.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as it
>> never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>>
>> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning
>> off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the
>> heater.
>>
>> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess
>> of rusty crud?
>>
>> Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running
>> through the system?
>>
>> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the
>> local boozer?
>>
>> Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>>
>> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!)
>> and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm?.
>>
>> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap
>> off?..
>>
>> The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>>
>> Simon
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 10 14:07:00 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 13:07:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+U3Sz6wU1F0k0nx9JH7oR51tBXFnuTgg336n3Ws+LVzg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+U3Sz6wU1F0k0nx9JH7oR51tBXFnuTgg336n3Ws+LVzg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <72DBADD3-B54C-4A14-93D0-B88FB8EB59A1@comcast.net>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 10 15:05:34 2023
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 17:05:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>

I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2023 1:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

 

Ah, good point Kees. On a road trip coming out of Death Valley on a 115degF day climbing the Panamint Mountains my BJ8's temp started climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned the heater on full blast--not fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady at 212 until we crested the mountains and it started to come down and we were back to just miserable.

I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if you think of it, turn it on if the weather turns.



On 7/10/2023 8:36 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:

Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on a very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for some extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:

I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith?s heater. Normal insofar as it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.

We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the heater.

Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty crud?

Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running through the system?

Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the local boozer?

Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!

I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm?.

The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap off?..

The tap does work, before you all shout at once!

Simon

 

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Jul 10 17:46:13 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 23:46:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
Message-ID: <e5da91362ccd1078bdf7b4e63e68f10083fb2035@webmail>

Hi Mark-great shot of you and your car racing-sorry I do not remember
the pic on the Snowmass brochure but then that was sometime ago. The
silver brochure does not have any of those photos. But I have
everyone's autograph. Gosh DMH is gone 35 years now (7-3-23-his
birthday he would be 125).
So here is the scoop on the generator (dynamo) pulley. There was an
early dynamo issue in 1953 -Austin part 3H1834 (Lucas 22519). The
later 1954 on to 100-6 uses generator 11K 100 (Lucas 22483). The
Austin pulley is 1B1727. 
In addition to the stamped number, the early unit measures 9-29/32"
and the later measures 10-3/16. This has a different backplate and
"oiler" when upgraded in 1954.
Checking my car, and as I suspected, a replacement generator dated
1958 has a 3.5" pulley. It appears that all units had a 3-1/2 pulley
but Lucas sells it sans the pulley so Austin supplied it-part number
above. The photo shown here, when I assembled the car in 2015, has the
incorrect pulley mounted.
If your friend in Auckland has a smaller pulley he could have the
early unit on the later car? Check the number on the generator body
with a mirror. His, if correct for 1955, should be 3.5" and using the
later Lucas dynamo number. Then too, he just could have the wrong damn
pulley. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Mark Donaldson" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday July 10 2023 3:24:33PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter

	 Hello, Hank, 

	 A puzzle to which I suspect, I?ll never know the reason. 

	 When I rebuilt my 3000 race car engine recently I fitted a generator
because it is going to be road-registered. 

	 I fitted a slightly larger pulley to keep the generator revs just a
little lower. 

	 I do not plan on driving it at night, so full capacity charging will
not be an issue. 

	 That said, I used to race my BN2 40 years ago, but the wider pulley
was already on it. 

	 Like you, I have several Lucas charts too. Some of mine came from
Scott Morris. Very handy for reference. 

	 I also have many Lucas Parts Lists (hard copy) for all manner of
British vehicles, including cars, trucks, busses and tractors.  

	 Do you remember this photo on the back page of the Snowmass booklet?
 

	 Me at the hairpin at Auckland?s Pukekohe Park race track in 1981.
Kevin Faughnan liked the look of it.   ? 

	FROM: Hank Leach 
SENT: Tuesday, 11 July 2023 4:34 AM
TO: 'Mark Donaldson' 
CC: 'Michael Salter' ; 'Healey List' 
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter   

	Guys-there are any number of aftermarket or rebuilt generators over
the years. Good chance that someone jazzed up the generator to get
more output by changing the size of the pulley. I think that was the
case with mine, as the car was raced, so electrical output was
important.  

	I will look up the generator parts in the Lucas charts, but more than
likely there is no mention of diameter size. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Mark Donaldson"
 To: "Michael Salter"
 Cc: "Hank Leach", "Healey List"
 Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 8:57:14PM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter   

	FROM: Michael Salter 
SENT: Monday, 10 July 2023 3:13 PM
TO: Mark Donaldson 
CC: Hank Leach ; Healey List 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter    

	There is only 1 part number for all 100 generator pulleys so pretty
unlikely that there were different diameters.   Agreed 1B 1727  

	Lots of exchange generators back in the day.  The car was imported to
NZ in 1964. Surely a generator wouldn?t have packed up in just 8
years?   

	My BN2 which is very close to yours has only 27K miles and the
generator date is correct 5 /56.   

	What is the date on yours?  11 55 . . . and number 22483A, which is
correct for a BN2   

	M 

	I realise one cannot always make an accurate measurement from a
photo, but this Moss repro pulley looks, to my eye, to be more than
3.25? OD 

	Now I am totally confused. 

	On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 10:20 p.m. Mark Donaldson,  wrote:     

	Hank and Michael, 

	Thanks for your replies. 

	Now I am curious. I am 99.9% sure my generator pulley is original.
The car was sold new in Guernsey in the Channel Islands.  

	It is BN2 232844 11 June 1956 and the engine has never been out of
the car, though I gave the generator a tidy-up 10 years ago. 

	As Hank points out, it is possible that various diameters may have
been interchanged with other models during 100 production. 

	So our local Auckland member with a 3? OD pulley may well have the
right one for his 1955 BN1 

	Michael, I?ll have him measure it again to see if in fact it is a
3.2? pulley . . . and not 3? 

	 QUESTION:  Might my 3?? OD pulley be correct for a late
production BN2? 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ   

	FROM: Hank Leach 
SENT: Monday, 10 July 2023 5:22 AM
TO: 'Mark Donaldson' 
CC: 'Healey List' 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter   

	Hi Mark-had a similar problem with my early 100. The pulley mounted
to the generator turned out to be the wrong one and the belt lineup
was askew. The correct one shown is I believe about 3.25" and runs
true. Since there were so many of these blocks used on A70, A90 and
other saloons of the period, I could see how they got mixed up.
Regards, Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Mark Donaldson"
 To: "Healey List"
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday July 9 2023 3:41:39AM
 Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter  

	Learned gentlemen, 

	The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter. I believe it to be
original. I?ve owned the car for 45 years. 

	A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?. He thinks it
is original. I don?t. It got me thinking. 

	I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
import some 30 years ago. BN1L 226180 

	The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I
don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car
on the road. 

	Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct. 

	That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
spare. 

	They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
expensive. 

	Fingers crossed. 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jul 11 03:41:43 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 10:41:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Handbooks are all sold
Message-ID: <001201d9b3db$e7c2bfd0$b7483f70$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

We have a purchaser and, so long as there are no unexpected hitches, the
books etc are sold. 

Thanks for the offers,

Simon

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jul 11 04:05:14 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:05:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been swapped out for a simple plug.

I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too big, but they serve.

?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. ?Figure 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the centre through the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in the first place ???..

(If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those valves).

Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because they all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.

Simon

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 04:42:08 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 06:42:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKQaz468EL4xJmeg_YAxu0r7XetT40Z=JVyFfc5tsco6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7LKQaz468EL4xJmeg_YAxu0r7XetT40Z=JVyFfc5tsco6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJGej3vSqTOEmE0BOc3=DxgQAS+fi8X+KuGzVKYjJ-8mg@mail.gmail.com>

My apologies regarding the diameter of the 100 generator pulleys.
I made the unforgivable mistake of not zeroing my caliper before taking a
measurement.
The original pulleys 1B1727 were 3.625" in diameter.
I have four in my box of spares, never know when you might need one, an
they are all exactly the same diameter plus or minus a few thou.

M

On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 8:52 a.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> The outside diameter of the originals is 3.2" Mark.
>
> M
>
> On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 6:28 a.m. Mark Donaldson, <
> ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
>> Learned gentlemen,
>>
>>
>>
>> The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be original.
>> I?ve owned the car for 45 years.
>>
>>
>>
>> A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
>> original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.
>>
>> I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
>> import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180
>>
>> The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t
>> know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.
>>
>>
>>
>> Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.
>>
>>
>>
>> That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
>> spare.
>>
>> They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
>> expensive.
>>
>>
>>
>> Fingers crossed.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Ardmore
>>
>> NZ
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 11 05:14:17 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 13:14:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
 <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>

The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. 
Brass Polish.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>
> I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one 
> on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been swapped 
> out for a simple plug.
>
> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the 
> cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too 
> big, but they serve.
>
> ?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. ?Figure 
> 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out and 
> replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the centre through 
> the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in the first place ???..
>
> (If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to 
> those valves).
>
> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, 
> it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite 
> recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them 
> pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because they 
> all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Tue Jul 11 06:37:13 2023
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 08:37:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
Message-ID: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>

Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be
sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 11 07:22:41 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 06:22:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
 <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <63ac8848-5cbf-df12-f591-9ffa4699f30e@comcast.net>

Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held 
with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more 
'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel 
bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.

I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on the 
cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very fine 
wet/dry sandpaper works OK.


On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>
> The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. 
> Brass Polish.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>>
>> I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The 
>> one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been 
>> swapped out for a simple plug.
>>
>> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the 
>> cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too 
>> big, but they serve.
>>
>> ?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. ?Figure 
>> 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out and 
>> replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the centre 
>> through the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in the first 
>> place ???..
>>
>> (If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to 
>> those valves).
>>
>> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. 
>> Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. 
>> Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had 
>> them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because 
>> they all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 07:57:36 2023
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 09:57:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7jwKseBA=wq38MefTJP_LtXpv5H4bS3r2=eq-reX9ZAg@mail.gmail.com>

3 in 1 has a few different products but one of them--I believe that most
commonly seen on store shelves--is graded SAE 20 which is what is generally
specified for SU's.

Opinions on this and many other topics are of course varied and responses
should be interesting....

Best--Michael Oritt



On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:23?AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:

> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be
> sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 11 07:49:42 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 13:49:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>

 My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.??Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relativehumidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary enginecooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern coreinstalled in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
 
 ?
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC? USA
 
 ?
 


  
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 11 08:06:05 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 16:06:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>

3 in one is fine for these simple lubrication jobs. Easy to apply as well.
However any kind of oil would do. Usually a drop from the dip stick is used.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 11-7-2023 om 14:37 schreef Jim Ryan:
> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?? Would 3 in 1 be 
> sufficient?? My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 11 08:58:47 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 16:58:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <63ac8848-5cbf-df12-f591-9ffa4699f30e@comcast.net>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
 <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>
 <63ac8848-5cbf-df12-f591-9ffa4699f30e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <f769c5a6-b93a-11ab-c592-7d153ff7d02a@chello.nl>

One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which literally 
translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite or perhaps 
molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.
I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held 
> with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more 
> 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel 
> bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.
>
> I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on the 
> cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very fine 
> wet/dry sandpaper works OK.
>
>
> On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. 
>> Brass Polish.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>>>
>>> I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The 
>>> one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been 
>>> swapped out for a simple plug.
>>>
>>> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap 
>>> the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are 
>>> too big, but they serve.
>>>
>>> ?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. 
>>> ?Figure 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all 
>>> out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the 
>>> centre through the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in 
>>> the first place ???..
>>>
>>> (If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to 
>>> those valves).
>>>
>>> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. 
>>> Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the 
>>> box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, 
>>> had them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn 
>>> because they all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 09:11:09 2023
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 10:11:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+Vvz=XUQ7BEDe-mEz=6v+htGmEACM7d0ouHBTpwJGa+Q@mail.gmail.com>

Your pedal will feel sticky because the levers are not properly adjusted.
The manual explains generally how it should be set up.  For best results
each lever in the linkage should travel the same mirror angle on the axis
from closed to open - if you adjust each lever this way you will get a full
throttle open.  Normally you get stickiness when one of the levers is too
far forward whilst the throttle is closed, then you push the throttle and
the angle is too steep.  You won't get full throttle this way and the lever
arm can get stuck.


On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 8:46?AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:

> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be
> sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 09:21:53 2023
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 10:21:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+Vvz=XUQ7BEDe-mEz=6v+htGmEACM7d0ouHBTpwJGa+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+Vvz=XUQ7BEDe-mEz=6v+htGmEACM7d0ouHBTpwJGa+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+7cOVN+Z6uh+4LQ8BsUCX8vS3RH2DxjbBXKTtbzVhFSw@mail.gmail.com>

It also helps to make sure all your throttle linkage bushings are in good
shape

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 10:11?AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Your pedal will feel sticky because the levers are not properly adjusted.
> The manual explains generally how it should be set up.  For best results
> each lever in the linkage should travel the same mirror angle on the axis
> from closed to open - if you adjust each lever this way you will get a full
> throttle open.  Normally you get stickiness when one of the levers is too
> far forward whilst the throttle is closed, then you push the throttle and
> the angle is too steep.  You won't get full throttle this way and the lever
> arm can get stuck.
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 8:46?AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:
>
>> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be
>> sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>>
>>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 09:58:49 2023
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 08:58:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7jwKseBA=wq38MefTJP_LtXpv5H4bS3r2=eq-reX9ZAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jwKseBA=wq38MefTJP_LtXpv5H4bS3r2=eq-reX9ZAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3AB7701F-B2CC-4DE8-A07A-352FE6B4CA0B@gmail.com>

Michael,  I also use 3 in 1 - 20w for my SU dashpots.

 But Jim is asking about what to do about his sticky pedal.  So many possibilities. Opinions may vary so I?ll stay out of this one.. 


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Jul 11, 2023, at 6:57 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 3 in 1 has a few different products but one of them--I believe that most commonly seen on store shelves--is graded SAE 20 which is what is generally specified for SU's.
> 
> Opinions on this and many other topics are of course varied and responses should be interesting....
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
>   
> 
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:23?AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com <mailto:ryan at jimryan.com>> wrote:
>> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Jul 11 10:40:01 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 09:40:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>

Gary,

I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum
radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to
popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials.
The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better
thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator
is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The
result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about
25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the
better to expel heat.

Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original
core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine
bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high
efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and
the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do
the work.

This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores

Harold





On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From drtommitch at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 10:47:07 2023
From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:47:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAOqP0S+6Uz2_n=z6E_E8WNPjUpsk-UYQ1A_TbtAszHQ=QYMnXg@mail.gmail.com>

If I may suggest use minimum oil, as it will collect dirt and get gunky.

Tom Mitchell
BJ8
Ann Arbor Michigan

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023, 11:39 Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> 3 in one is fine for these simple lubrication jobs. Easy to apply as well.
> However any kind of oil would do. Usually a drop from the dip stick is
> used.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 11-7-2023 om 14:37 schreef Jim Ryan:
> > Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be
> > sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
>
> --
> Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
> www.avg.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Jul 11 10:49:48 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 12:49:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <058f01d9b417$b4446910$1ccd3b30$@sympatico.ca>

Remember the Healey linkage has a few joints in it!  It may not be at the carbs.

I was tempted to reply to "... pedal feels sticky..."  with "Just wipe it off, its probably chewing gum", but thought the better of it.

Cheers, Mirek

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 10:06 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs

3 in one is fine for these simple lubrication jobs. Easy to apply as well.
However any kind of oil would do. Usually a drop from the dip stick is used.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 11-7-2023 om 14:37 schreef Jim Ryan:
> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be 
> sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

--
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca



From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jul 11 11:57:50 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 18:57:50 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7jwKseBA=wq38MefTJP_LtXpv5H4bS3r2=eq-reX9ZAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jwKseBA=wq38MefTJP_LtXpv5H4bS3r2=eq-reX9ZAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501d9b421$36c5e680$a451b380$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I use black graphite grease. Seems to work OK.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 11 July 2023 14:58
To: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs

 

3 in 1 has a few different products but one of them--I believe that most commonly seen on store shelves--is graded SAE 20 which is what is generally specified for SU's.

 

Opinions on this and many other topics are of course varied and responses should be interesting....

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

  

 

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:23?AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com <mailto:ryan at jimryan.com> > wrote:

Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 11 12:05:15 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:05:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
References: <CAEajuYy1YXzaEwhv6dt7eBvmut1DkFO8Mi=jbSMU9WRzG3z0Kg@mail.gmail.com>
 <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <e808bc2d-a1c4-79c0-e591-edf432e03221@comcast.net>

White lithium is a good all-around lube.

However ... I suspect lubrication isn't the (whole) solution. Unless it 
has previously been 'restored' the problem may be with the bushings on 
the throttle cross-shaft located under the scuttle (assuming 6-cyl car). 
It came with brass/rubber bushings, which are likely shot. The solution 
is new teflon bushings and making sure the shaft is straight (it can get 
bent by R&Ring the engine). I did mine with the engine out, but I'm told 
it can be done in situ. With a straightened shaft and new nylon bushings 
my pedal was so smooth I though the throttle return springs were shot 
(they weren't). There is also a bearing on the shaft on the intake 
manifold, if worn it will add resistance.


On 7/11/2023 7:06 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> 3 in one is fine for these simple lubrication jobs. Easy to apply as 
> well.
> However any kind of oil would do. Usually a drop from the dip stick is 
> used.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 11-7-2023 om 14:37 schreef Jim Ryan:
>> Any advice on lubricating the linkage on the SU's?? Would 3 in 1 be 
>> sufficient?? My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 11 12:07:09 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:07:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <f769c5a6-b93a-11ab-c592-7d153ff7d02a@chello.nl>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
 <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>
 <63ac8848-5cbf-df12-f591-9ffa4699f30e@comcast.net>
 <f769c5a6-b93a-11ab-c592-7d153ff7d02a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <83ab21c6-2acb-4f53-0b93-e39b66c2aa50@comcast.net>

Good idea; though I favor silicone products:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-0-5-oz-Silicone-Faucet-Grease-88693/203193536

On 7/11/2023 7:58 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>
> One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which literally 
> translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite or perhaps 
> molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.
> I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob Spidell:
>> Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held 
>> with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more 
>> 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel 
>> bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.
>>
>> I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on 
>> the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very 
>> fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.
>>
>>
>> On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with 
>>> e.g. Brass Polish.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>> Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>>>>
>>>> I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The 
>>>> one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been 
>>>> swapped out for a simple plug.
>>>>
>>>> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap 
>>>> the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which 
>>>> are too big, but they serve.
>>>>
>>>> ?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. 
>>>> ?Figure 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all 
>>>> out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the 
>>>> centre through the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in 
>>>> the first place ???..
>>>>
>>>> (If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to 
>>>> those valves).
>>>>
>>>> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. 
>>>> Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the 
>>>> box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, 
>>>> had them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn 
>>>> because they all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.
>>>>
>>>> Simon
>>>>
>>>>
>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 12:26:05 2023
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 14:26:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
References: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <D2982CEE-69F0-44F4-A940-D283ADF89B27@gmail.com>

Forgive the mistake?I didn?t read to the end of the question, but just in case he wants to know about the dashpots as well he has the answer!

Best?Michael


> On Jul 11, 2023, at 12:34 PM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be sufficient?  My pedal feels a bit sticky.

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 11 13:33:31 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 21:33:31 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <da8a0647-9a93-bafd-b27f-6f46d7213a59@chello.nl>

Have it re-cored with a modern, more efficient core (more rows/tubes). 
Cleaning out a radiator is a waste of money most of the time. Aluminium 
is lighter and cheaper to manufacture but not as durable and usually 
cannot be repaired. Thermal conductivity is also not as good as 
copper/brass. Most of all it does not look right.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 15:49 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but 
> I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190?sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC? USA
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 14:54:46 2023
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 21:54:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJGej3vSqTOEmE0BOc3=DxgQAS+fi8X+KuGzVKYjJ-8mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7LKQaz468EL4xJmeg_YAxu0r7XetT40Z=JVyFfc5tsco6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJGej3vSqTOEmE0BOc3=DxgQAS+fi8X+KuGzVKYjJ-8mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVafxVVqJDei5BRxwqC4hJq1SF03dHKWw7O=7jNgj64Sw@mail.gmail.com>

Micheal

I was confused by some of the measurements that others had made but now I
can confirm that 1B 1727 is 3.625" in diameter

However, the A70 Hereford and the A90 Atlantic had a larger diameter pulley
1B 1114 and this may have been fitted to a very early 4 cylinder 100.

On Tue, 11 Jul 2023 at 12:59, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> My apologies regarding the diameter of the 100 generator pulleys.
> I made the unforgivable mistake of not zeroing my caliper before taking a
> measurement.
> The original pulleys 1B1727 were 3.625" in diameter.
> I have four in my box of spares, never know when you might need one, an
> they are all exactly the same diameter plus or minus a few thou.
>
> M
>
> On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 8:52 a.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The outside diameter of the originals is 3.2" Mark.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 6:28 a.m. Mark Donaldson, <
>> ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>>
>>> Learned gentlemen,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be
>>> original.  I?ve owned the car for 45 years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
>>> original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.
>>>
>>> I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
>>> import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180
>>>
>>> The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I don?t
>>> know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the road.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
>>> spare.
>>>
>>> They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
>>> expensive.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Fingers crossed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> Ardmore
>>>
>>> NZ
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 11 15:10:19 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 14:10:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01e301d9b43c$19f89820$4de9c860$@sbcglobal.net>

When I restored my BT7 I put in a high efficiency core, for rows I believe. Nothing was difficult. The top and bottom will accept the core and almost any competent radiator shop can do the work.

 

One caveat, I had to flatten the inside of the rail and bend it to accept the wider core. Again, that was not difficult. It is hard to see the modification.

 

John

62? BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:40 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

 

Gary,

 

I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.

 

Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.

 

This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores

 

Harold

 

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autoxteam.net> > wrote:

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  

Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?

Gary H

 

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

 

 

I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 11 15:15:50 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 17:15:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 generator pulley diameter
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLVafxVVqJDei5BRxwqC4hJq1SF03dHKWw7O=7jNgj64Sw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001001d9b24f$18facb30$4af06190$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7LKQaz468EL4xJmeg_YAxu0r7XetT40Z=JVyFfc5tsco6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJGej3vSqTOEmE0BOc3=DxgQAS+fi8X+KuGzVKYjJ-8mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLVafxVVqJDei5BRxwqC4hJq1SF03dHKWw7O=7jNgj64Sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKsfkgGgsca=aaHizi-m7=o-hKNG2fa4H6gkp=tOdpBeg@mail.gmail.com>

Very possible John. My BN1 is B.#174 and has what certainly appears to be
the original generator being dated the month before production.
The problem, as I'm sure you are aware, is that in days gone by it was
quite common for exchange units to get "mixed up", a case of "this one's
close enough!"

M

On Tue., Jul. 11, 2023, 4:54 p.m. john harper, <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

> Micheal
>
> I was confused by some of the measurements that others had made but now I
> can confirm that 1B 1727 is 3.625" in diameter
>
> However, the A70 Hereford and the A90 Atlantic had a larger diameter
> pulley 1B 1114 and this may have been fitted to a very early 4 cylinder 100.
>
> On Tue, 11 Jul 2023 at 12:59, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> My apologies regarding the diameter of the 100 generator pulleys.
>> I made the unforgivable mistake of not zeroing my caliper before taking a
>> measurement.
>> The original pulleys 1B1727 were 3.625" in diameter.
>> I have four in my box of spares, never know when you might need one, an
>> they are all exactly the same diameter plus or minus a few thou.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 8:52 a.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The outside diameter of the originals is 3.2" Mark.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sun., Jul. 9, 2023, 6:28 a.m. Mark Donaldson, <
>>> ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Learned gentlemen,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The pulley on my 1956 BN2 is 3?? diameter.  I believe it to be
>>>> original.  I?ve owned the car for 45 years.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> A friend has a BN1 with a pulley diameter of just 3?.  He thinks it is
>>>> original.   I don?t.  It got me thinking.
>>>>
>>>> I believe his is incorrect as it was converted here in NZ from a LHD
>>>> import some 30 years ago.  BN1L 226180
>>>>
>>>> The car has some clumsy conversions made to change it to RHD, so I
>>>> don?t know what else might have been ?cobbled up? to get the car on the
>>>> road.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Can somebody of you please confirm that 3?? is correct.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> That said, I need another for a second 100 engine I am building as a
>>>> spare.
>>>>
>>>> They seem to be scarce down here in NZ, and repros seem to be rather
>>>> expensive.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fingers crossed.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> Ardmore
>>>>
>>>> NZ
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 11 15:19:20 2023
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 17:19:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <62110a03-7b34-ed74-a7c7-853658364698@earthlink.net>

As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull 
sufficient air through the radiator.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Gary,
>
> I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into 
> aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. 
> Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties 
> of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey 
> radiators have much better thermal conductivity?than aluminum. The 
> advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing?process and 
> the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin 
> area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than 
> the stock?radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel?heat.
>
> Having said that, there is a third?option which is to replace the 
> original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look 
> of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum 
> radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive?than 
> a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that 
> can access the core can do the work.
>
> This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs
>     to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged
>     fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be
>     more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
>     Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does
>     anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an
>     aluminum radiator?
>     Gary H
>
>     On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via
>     Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>     I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity today)
>     and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine
>     cooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a
>     modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190?sleeved
>     thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     HBJ8L/36666
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     Havelock, NC? USA
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>
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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Tue Jul 11 15:52:15 2023
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 21:52:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1625031086.2771749.1689112335597@mail.yahoo.com>

Certainly a good shop can recite the stock rad?to better-than-new performance. What I did: Put the stock rad aside and bought a Wizard unit, which follows the original shape closely, sheds heat far better as it is alloy, cools better, and is made in?upstate NY, rather than China. Cost:about $750 a couple of years ago.?Truly a bolt-in affair. I also?use an alloy?head, performance water pump, Texas cooler fan (in red), and a Spaal auxiliary fan mounted in front of the radiator with a control switch for sitting in traffic or waiting to enter shows. The Wizard cools so well it required a 180-degree F thermostat for proper warmup on cooler spring and fall mornings?even with the block over bored. Wizard also supplied the electric aux fan. Can?t recommend them enough!


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Tuesday, July 11, 2023, 12:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.??Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relativehumidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary enginecooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern coreinstalled in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
 
 ?
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC? USA
 
 ?
 


  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Jul 11 16:42:28 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 15:42:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <62110a03-7b34-ed74-a7c7-853658364698@earthlink.net>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <62110a03-7b34-ed74-a7c7-853658364698@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any
issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at
anything above 15 mph.

Harold

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull
> sufficient air through the radiator.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum
> radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to
> popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials.
> The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better
> thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator
> is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The
> result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about
> 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the
> better to expel heat.
>
> Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original
> core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine
> bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high
> efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and
> the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do
> the work.
>
> This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
>> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
>> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
>> to the aluminum option.
>> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
>> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
>> Gary H
>>
>> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
>> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
>> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
>> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Byers
>>
>> HBJ8L/36666
>>
>> BJ8 Registry
>>
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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From allan-peters at sky.com  Tue Jul 11 10:17:21 2023
From: allan-peters at sky.com (Allan Peters)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 16:17:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Today=27s_chuckles=E2=80=A6?=
In-Reply-To: <737226287.220184.1676106109269@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <737226287.220184.1676106109269.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <737226287.220184.1676106109269@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <340261179.3724110.1689092241070@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi,
How are you doing, I want to ask you for an assistanceDo you normally order from amazon?
Thanks? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Regards,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Allan

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 12 05:11:08 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 13:11:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <62110a03-7b34-ed74-a7c7-853658364698@earthlink.net>
 <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47aec3a4-49df-40f6-4f3b-83dd9cabb4a1@chello.nl>

You would need a thermostatically? controlled electric fan in modern 
traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless nowadays.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold Manifold:
> Bob,
>
> As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have 
> any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air 
> flow at anything above 15 mph.
>
> Harold
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to
>     pull sufficient air through the radiator.
>
>     Bob Haskell
>     Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
>     On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
>>     Gary,
>>
>>     I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into
>>     aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be.
>>     Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer
>>     properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the
>>     original Healey radiators have much better thermal
>>     conductivity?than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum
>>     radiator is the manufacturing?process and the formability of
>>     modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I
>>     estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the
>>     stock?radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel?heat.
>>
>>     Having said that, there is a third?option which is to replace the
>>     original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock
>>     look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the
>>     aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more
>>     expensive?than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a
>>     radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.
>>
>>     This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores
>>
>>     Harold
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>         My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either
>>         needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the
>>         damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but
>>         that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum
>>         option.
>>         Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options?
>>         Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient
>>         than an aluminum radiator?
>>         Gary H
>>
>>         On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via
>>         Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>         I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity
>>         today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the
>>         ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use? it
>>         that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator
>>         and added a 190?sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>>
>>         Steve Byers
>>
>>         HBJ8L/36666
>>
>>         BJ8 Registry
>>
>>         AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>>         Havelock, NC? USA
>>
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>>
>>
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>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
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>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Jul 12 05:19:05 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 07:19:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <f769c5a6-b93a-11ab-c592-7d153ff7d02a@chello.nl>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAB3i7LK5+wLB4oxvyfAYsCzTEH81TUCFtgxtDCMeHH6LymD3wA@mail.gmail.com>
 <18fb681f-c806-d606-652d-aebda76d771a@comcast.net>
 <001901d9b3df$312d6dc0$93884940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <0f93a864-5cb4-13d3-2df9-40584a21dc2b@chello.nl>
 <63ac8848-5cbf-df12-f591-9ffa4699f30e@comcast.net>
 <f769c5a6-b93a-11ab-c592-7d153ff7d02a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <05ed01d9b4b2$ab50d500$01f27f00$@sympatico.ca>

I agree with Kees; over here it is called plumber?s grease and I have used it for years on both the brass taps on British cars and the fuel taps on my old bikes, which are or identical design.  As Kees says, it works a treat.  It is available at most hardware outlets that sell plumbing fittings.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 10:59 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

 

One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which literally translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite or perhaps molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.
I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.
Kees Oudesluijs

 

 

Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob Spidell:

Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.

I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.



On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:

The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. Brass Polish.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:

I agree?the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been swapped out for a simple plug.

I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too big, but they serve.

?Heater valve? shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. ?Figure 3? shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I?d known to tap the centre through the valve, I?d never have busticated the handle in the first place ???..

(If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those valves).

Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because they all leaked. See ?Radiator Tap?.

Simon

 

 






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From drscholz at visioncenterpc.com  Wed Jul 12 05:22:13 2023
From: drscholz at visioncenterpc.com (Chris Scholz)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 11:22:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <16E8505E-9AD5-47EC-A436-930B885F8594@visioncenterpc.com>

I have the aluminum dual pass wizard radiator from New York also in my 100-6 and love it.  I have a single electric 15? spal fan, no vents in the hood and I am cooling an aluminum 5.7L LS1 with 350hp.  Never overheats and idles thru parades on 100 degree days and never goes over 195 degrees.

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:59 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

?
Bob,

As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.

Harold

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net<mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>> wrote:

As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
Gary,

I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.

Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.

This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores

Harold





On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
Gary H

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:



I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.



Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA




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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Jul 12 06:08:35 2023
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 08:08:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating Healey's
Message-ID: <100d01d9b4b9$95fa7970$c1ef6c50$@gmail.com>

As the heater conversation changed to the overheating of our cars, the
discussion developed towards the radiator, fan etc.  As many will remember,
I installed a radiator pump and removed the fan in my Healey. At the same
time, my electric fan mounted on the outside of the radiator stopped
working.  However, the radiator pump continues to eliminate boil over when
stopping the car for a stop light etc.  When the car is driven into the
garage, I turn the engine off and then turn the ignition back on, so the
pump continues to circulate the cooling water system thereby dropping the
temperature of the water and boil over. In other words, you may not need an
electric fan.  Nonetheless, I will repair or replace the electric fan.

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

 

 

 

 

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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Wed Jul 12 06:32:51 2023
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 12:32:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <47aec3a4-49df-40f6-4f3b-83dd9cabb4a1@chello.nl>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFP1XCDcncxZvsHML4X-hOigL-eS7PEaUOftBTSGmxCcQmWbWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <62110a03-7b34-ed74-a7c7-853658364698@earthlink.net>
 <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <47aec3a4-49df-40f6-4f3b-83dd9cabb4a1@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1582326965.3005988.1689165171569@mail.yahoo.com>

Agree. Especially without a shroud?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 7:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 
You would need a thermostatically? controlled electric fan in modern traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless nowadays.
 Kees Oudesluijs
 
 Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold Manifold:
  
 
Bob, 
  As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph. 
  Harold  
  On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
  
  
As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.
 
 Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
  
 Gary, 
  I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity?than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing?process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock?radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel?heat. 
  Having said that, there is a third?option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive?than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work. 
  This website has a good overview:?https://usradiator.com/cores 
  Harold 
  
  
  
   
  On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
   My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.?? Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator? Gary H 
      On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
  
      
I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
 
 ?
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC? USA
 
 ?
    

 
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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Wed Jul 12 07:33:51 2023
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 13:33:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <16E8505E-9AD5-47EC-A436-930B885F8594@visioncenterpc.com>
References: <CAFP1XCAg+kqUyUgbYtSXt3cMo3SfeLZSHFoqYpPweVenpHmNWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <16E8505E-9AD5-47EC-A436-930B885F8594@visioncenterpc.com>
Message-ID: <357432762.3022195.1689168831344@mail.yahoo.com>

Just as it should work!


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 8:47 AM, Chris Scholz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I have the aluminum dual pass wizard radiator from New York also in my 100-6 and love it. ?I have a single electric 15? spal fan, no vents in the hood and I am cooling an aluminum 5.7L LS1 with 350hp. ?Never overheats and idles thru parades on 100 degree days and never goes over 195 degrees. ?

Sent from my iPhoneChris Scholz OD

On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:59 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:



?Bob,
As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.
Harold
On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:


As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrarOn 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:

Gary,
I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity?than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing?process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock?radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel?heat.
Having said that, there is a third?option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive?than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.
This website has a good overview:?https://usradiator.com/cores
Harold




On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.??Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.

?

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC? USA

?



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From rubino at truespeed.ca  Wed Jul 12 07:38:43 2023
From: rubino at truespeed.ca (rubino at truespeed.ca)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 13:38:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating Healey's
In-Reply-To: <100d01d9b4b9$95fa7970$c1ef6c50$@gmail.com>
References: <100d01d9b4b9$95fa7970$c1ef6c50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <em5bd01a2a-cea1-4c5a-a92e-8b15cc74ff81@p6520f>

I have an electric fan mounted on the front of the rad with a thermo, 
variable, control. Never over heat.

------ Original Message ------
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: 12/07/2023 8:08:35 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating Healey's

>As the heater conversation changed to the overheating of our cars, the 
>discussion developed towards the radiator, fan etc.  As many will 
>remember, I installed a radiator pump and removed the fan in my Healey. 
>At the same time, my electric fan mounted on the outside of the 
>radiator stopped working.  However, the radiator pump continues to 
>eliminate boil over when stopping the car for a stop light etc.  When 
>the car is driven into the garage, I turn the engine off and then turn 
>the ignition back on, so the pump continues to circulate the cooling 
>water system thereby dropping the temperature of the water and boil 
>over. In other words, you may not need an electric fan.  Nonetheless, I 
>will repair or replace the electric fan.
>
>
>
>Bob Begani
>
>67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Thu Jul 13 04:55:03 2023
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 06:55:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <D2982CEE-69F0-44F4-A940-D283ADF89B27@gmail.com>
References: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
 <D2982CEE-69F0-44F4-A940-D283ADF89B27@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYw8JN2GteL7hCtbby31OfdwDqG5j8otGHLvUCPPFV2BEw@mail.gmail.com>

To clarify, I do use the SU oil for the dashpots.  I'm just talking about
the linkage.  I was going to use 3 in 1, but the comment about picking up
gunk along the way may be valid.  Any thoughts on this?
<https://tinyurl.com/2hbjku72>


On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 10:41?PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Forgive the mistake?I didn?t read to the end of the question, but just in
> case he wants to know about the dashpots as well he has the answer!
>
> Best?Michael
>
>
> > On Jul 11, 2023, at 12:34 PM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > lubricating the linkage on the SU's?  Would 3 in 1 be sufficient?  My
> pedal feels a bit sticky.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul 13 05:07:08 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 13:07:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYw8JN2GteL7hCtbby31OfdwDqG5j8otGHLvUCPPFV2BEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
 <D2982CEE-69F0-44F4-A940-D283ADF89B27@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYw8JN2GteL7hCtbby31OfdwDqG5j8otGHLvUCPPFV2BEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cb8acd5e-f907-e51e-7726-341b33a371d3@chello.nl>

Of course it will collect dirt, but the linkage will still need 
lubrication. You have to clean of the dirt once in a while and apply 
lubricant when all is clean. It is called maintenance. I generally use 
brake cleaner spray to rinse of dirt and grease/oil.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 13-7-2023 om 12:55 schreef Jim Ryan:
> To clarify, I do use the SU oil for the dashpots. I'm just talking 
> about the linkage.? I was going to use 3 in 1, but the comment about 
> picking up gunk along the way may be valid.? Any thoughts on this? 
> <https://tinyurl.com/2hbjku72>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 10:41?PM Michael Oritt via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Forgive the mistake?I didn?t read to the end of the question, but
>     just in case he wants to know about the dashpots as well he has
>     the answer!
>
>     Best?Michael
>
>
>     > On Jul 11, 2023, at 12:34 PM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>     >
>     > lubricating the linkage on the SU's?? Would 3 in 1 be
>     sufficient?? My pedal feels a bit sticky.
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
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>
>
> -- 
>
> Jim Ryan
>
> ????
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul 13 06:57:45 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 12:57:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lubricant for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYw8JN2GteL7hCtbby31OfdwDqG5j8otGHLvUCPPFV2BEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c937f2b4-77f7-c5c8-fa9f-9dcc104bc211@chello.nl>
 <D2982CEE-69F0-44F4-A940-D283ADF89B27@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYw8JN2GteL7hCtbby31OfdwDqG5j8otGHLvUCPPFV2BEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <660727478.1088937.1689253065753@mail.yahoo.com>

 I try to keep my carb linkage clean by spraying all the pivot points with a thin, volatile lubricant like WD40 periodically. Approximately twice per driving season. This is thin enough to flush out any build up of debris & volatile enough to evaporate as soon as the linkage gets warmed up by the engine heat.?Gary H?
    On Thursday, July 13, 2023 at 06:37:26 AM CDT, Jim Ryan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 To clarify, I do use the SU oil for the dashpots.? I'm just talking about the linkage.? I was going to use 3 in 1, but the comment about picking up gunk along the way may be valid.? Any thoughts on this??

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 10:41?PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Forgive the mistake?I didn?t read to the end of the question, but just in case he wants to know about the dashpots as well he has the answer!

Best?Michael


> On Jul 11, 2023, at 12:34 PM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> lubricating the linkage on the SU's?? Would 3 in 1 be sufficient?? My pedal feels a bit sticky.
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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-- 

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????
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From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 13 07:43:55 2023
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 13:43:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
Len B
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
Gary H

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:



I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.



Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA



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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 13 10:08:07 2023
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 09:08:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <D6F0A72E8614436885251FE026B0C181@DavidNockHP>

We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly British Cars the entire time.  

WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped. 

I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. 

I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium radiator, with 2 rows of  1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.

Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.

Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.

So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.  
Len B

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query 

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  
Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
Gary H

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.



Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 13 12:24:23 2023
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 11:24:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQTJMfLmmZQ_BMpPQGds5DYGB1tno+szFGWhSdmWA3Amw@mail.gmail.com>

Leonard

I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator from
ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British Pound
was at an all time low of $1.07 to ?1.00, so the radiator delivered to
SoCal was just under $900 USD.

Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares
etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from
others used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!

30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service
and fast shipping [shipping alone was ?147 and the price was still under
$900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a
proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them].
Their standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses a BSPT thread
[tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three
attached photos.

Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator>

Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radiator>

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)

[image: IMG_20230103_131233_050.jpg]
[image: IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg]
[image: IMG_20230103_130815_341.jpg]


On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:59?AM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored
> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has
> been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every
> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
> the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this
> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <
> sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 13 12:34:45 2023
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 11:34:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQTJMfLmmZQ_BMpPQGds5DYGB1tno+szFGWhSdmWA3Amw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeQTJMfLmmZQ_BMpPQGds5DYGB1tno+szFGWhSdmWA3Amw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeT0OiYuLUtxNeU3GM9bSM0gspuvrvjMO4dO9QFM7h06Sw@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding ProAlloy, I just checked their website and not only have their
prices increased, but the dollar to pound rate is not as good as it was
when I purchased mine. Still, a better product for less money.

On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 11:24?AM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Leonard
>
> I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator
> from ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British
> Pound was at an all time low of $1.07 to ?1.00, so the radiator delivered
> to SoCal was just under $900 USD.
>
> Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares
> etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from
> others used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!
>
> 30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service
> and fast shipping [shipping alone was ?147 and the price was still under
> $900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a
> proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them].
> Their standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses a BSPT thread
> [tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three
> attached photos.
>
> Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy
> <https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator>
>
> Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy
> <https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radiator>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
>
> [image: IMG_20230103_131233_050.jpg]
> [image: IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg]
> [image: IMG_20230103_130815_341.jpg]
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:59?AM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
>> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored
>> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
>> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has
>> been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every
>> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
>> the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this
>> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
>> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
>> Len B
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <
>> sbyers at ec.rr.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>>
>> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
>> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
>> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
>> to the aluminum option.
>> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
>> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
>> Gary H
>>
>> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
>> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
>> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
>> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Byers
>>
>> HBJ8L/36666
>>
>> BJ8 Registry
>>
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Thu Jul 13 12:39:24 2023
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 18:39:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <D6F0A72E8614436885251FE026B0C181@DavidNockHP>
References: <000701d9b33a$80615dc0$81241940$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <f2ea8a26-ca38-4cdb-3845-322cce3908f6@chello.nl>
 <57859396-e664-a09e-2e23-001bf6ae8afb@comcast.net>
 <005c01d9b372$47c31070$d7493150$@rr.com>
 <1965958836.2036581.1689083382851@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837A@DM4PR11MB7208.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <D6F0A72E8614436885251FE026B0C181@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <1835921815.3727487.1689273564117@mail.yahoo.com>

Dave Nock?s upgrades sound much like mine: alloy (Wizard) radiator with two large tubes, proper thermostat, pusher fan, high volume water pump, plus alloy head (the original 100/4 heads are often shot by now). Never overheats even in 90 deg weather. And the aux pusher fan is a godsend in traffic.?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, July 13, 2023, 12:35 PM, David Nock BCS via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

#yiv4617816978 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}We have been dealing with the British? Car industry for only about 70 years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly British Cars the entire time.? ?WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped. ?I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. ?I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium radiator, with 2 rows of? 1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.?Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.?Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better? but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.?So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.?
?David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com?From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AMTo: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query?I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.? I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.? Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.? Len BFrom: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query ?My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.? Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H?On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: ??
I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.

?

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC? USA

?

?


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 14 11:07:35 2023
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2023 10:07:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for MGB steering rack
Message-ID: <CABXhz89ZUv=4T757jS61+Rjvh_q+Kz1E7o00RqKPgK14of6D6w@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all
Anyone have a usable steering rack for my wife's 67 MGB?
Price plus shipping to Oregon 97222
Will pick up within 200 miles
Thanks all
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jul 14 12:06:10 2023
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2023 11:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for MGB steering rack
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89ZUv=4T757jS61+Rjvh_q+Kz1E7o00RqKPgK14of6D6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89ZUv=4T757jS61+Rjvh_q+Kz1E7o00RqKPgK14of6D6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A145B92-8D58-4A6C-8D14-175B9D3F5B73@gmail.com>



David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 14, 2023, at 10:41 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Howdy all 
> Anyone have a usable steering rack for my wife's 67 MGB?
> Price plus shipping to Oregon 97222
> Will pick up within 200 miles 
> Thanks all
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 

From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Jul 16 16:51:40 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 22:51:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
References: <838624437.982984.1689547900991.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <838624437.982984.1689547900991@mail.yahoo.com>


From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Jul 16 16:54:31 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 22:54:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
References: <1820912386.975490.1689548073505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1820912386.975490.1689548073505@mail.yahoo.com>

You may have seen it before but here it is again!
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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Jul 16 17:00:41 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 23:00:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] VIR/vintage racing lit
References: <788991073.978565.1689548442547.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <788991073.978565.1689548442547@mail.yahoo.com>

Programs from late 90s and early 2000s.  Send me $20 to cover S&H from 23602 and its yours.? First come, first served.
Keith
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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Jul 16 17:57:21 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 23:57:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Summit Point programs
References: <1612055598.1004715.1689551842347.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1612055598.1004715.1689551842347@mail.yahoo.com>

Programs from 80s, 90s and 2000s.  All for $20 inc S&H from 23602.  First come first served.
Keith
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From watterbury at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 16 18:19:01 2023
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 20:19:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
References: <0B4BB0A5-61DB-4F88-8BF7-EC01B42B72F8.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0B4BB0A5-61DB-4F88-8BF7-EC01B42B72F8@yahoo.com>

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From drwit at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 17 07:54:23 2023
From: drwit at hotmail.com (DAVID WITTMER)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 13:54:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
In-Reply-To: <1820912386.975490.1689548073505@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1820912386.975490.1689548073505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1820912386.975490.1689548073505@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR11MB463202D19D357C355F1001F6B33BA@MN2PR11MB4632.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Thought you?d enjoy this.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 16, 2023, at 7:37 PM, llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?You may have seen it before but here it is again!
> <IMG_7590.jpeg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drwit at hotmail.com
> 

From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Jul 17 09:12:32 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 15:12:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
In-Reply-To: <0B4BB0A5-61DB-4F88-8BF7-EC01B42B72F8@yahoo.com>
References: <0B4BB0A5-61DB-4F88-8BF7-EC01B42B72F8.ref@yahoo.com>
 <0B4BB0A5-61DB-4F88-8BF7-EC01B42B72F8@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <25847209.1247278.1689606752925@mail.yahoo.com>

 Good one Will! Enjoyed that!
     On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 10:03:36 PM EDT, William Atterbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Not to worry! ?Smoke replacement kits are a available:
| 
| Lucas Replacement Smoke Kitwhereisbobl.com |  |

 |


Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2023 22:54:31 +0000 (UTC)From: llennep at verizon.net
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Its all about the smoke
Message-ID: <1820912386.975490.1689548073505 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

You may have seen it before but here it is again!
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_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net

  
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 17 12:18:47 2023
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 11:18:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>

For an update on radiators and cooling

This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi. 

If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm. 

Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. With a alluminium radiator.  

The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph 

This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on how a part works.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com



From: David Nock BCS 
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
To: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly British Cars the entire time.  

WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped. 

I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. 

I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium radiator, with 2 rows of  1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.

Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.

Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.

So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.  
Len B

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query 

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  
Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
Gary H

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.



Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 17 15:01:20 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 14:01:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <d83b91b6-1d7c-56d4-c255-8088faab16e0@comcast.net>

That's what my BN2 and BJ8 run at highway speed--except in Death Valley 
at 115deg--both with stock but re-cored radiators.

It's sitting still at idle that hurts; what does your car run after a 
couple minutes sitting at idle?

Bob

On 7/17/2023 11:18 AM, David Nock BCS via Healeys wrote:
> For an update on radiators and cooling
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville 
> California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in 
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 
> degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. 
> With a alluminium radiator.
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to? 190 degrees at 70 mph
> This is how? I like to test something. A real life personal test on 
> how a part works.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> We have been dealing with the British? Car industry for only about 70 
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer 
> in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing 
> strictly British Cars the entire time.
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up 
> until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high 
> efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the 
> cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure 
> cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these 
> things helped.
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my 
> own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a 
> highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, 
> perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot 
> running problems here in the central valley of California with the 
> summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110.
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium 
> radiator, with 2 rows of? 1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 
> 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing 
> is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially 
> gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube 
> to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and 
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees 
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic 
> speeds. It was much better? but I wanted to make it better. So I 
> installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all 
> the heating issues are gone.
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and 
> tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test 
> in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried 
> oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my 
> original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is 
> original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little 
> challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.? I 
> have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high 
> speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they 
> should be. Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost 
> impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it 
> has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys 
> <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but 
> I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190?sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC? USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 17 15:03:21 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 14:03:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <31df93bc-230c-9fdd-c254-e6b5c0ef59cc@comcast.net>

That's what my BN2 and BJ8 run at highway speed--except in Death Valley 
at 115deg--both with stock but re-cored radiators.

It's sitting still at idle that hurts; what does your car run after a 
couple minutes sitting at idle? As a side note, the only thing that 
really worked for the BJ8 was the 7-bladed flex fan and shroud kit you 
and your dad used to sell, but the fan was just too dang loud at idle 
(it blew dust out from under the car sitting still).

Bob

On 7/17/2023 11:18 AM, David Nock BCS via Healeys wrote:
> For an update on radiators and cooling
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville 
> California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in 
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 
> degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. 
> With a alluminium radiator.
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to? 190 degrees at 70 mph
> This is how? I like to test something. A real life personal test on 
> how a part works.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> We have been dealing with the British? Car industry for only about 70 
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer 
> in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing 
> strictly British Cars the entire time.
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up 
> until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high 
> efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the 
> cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure 
> cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these 
> things helped.
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my 
> own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a 
> highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, 
> perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot 
> running problems here in the central valley of California with the 
> summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110.
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium 
> radiator, with 2 rows of? 1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 
> 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing 
> is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially 
> gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube 
> to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and 
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees 
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic 
> speeds. It was much better? but I wanted to make it better. So I 
> installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all 
> the heating issues are gone.
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and 
> tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test 
> in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried 
> oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my 
> original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is 
> original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little 
> challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.? I 
> have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high 
> speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they 
> should be. Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost 
> impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it 
> has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys 
> <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but 
> I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190?sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC? USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 17 15:04:43 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 14:04:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <1db2cb05-52cb-4889-1854-d091ef704900@comcast.net>

David,

That's what my BN2 and BJ8 run at highway speed--except in Death Valley 
at 115deg--both with stock but re-cored radiators.

It's sitting still at idle that hurts; what does your car run after a 
couple minutes sitting at idle? As a side note, the only thing that 
really helped for the BJ8 was the 7-bladed flex fan and shroud kit you 
and your dad used to sell. But the fan was just too dang loud at 
idle--it blew dust out from under the car sitting still--but I still 
have the shroud mounted.

Bob

On 7/17/2023 11:18 AM, David Nock BCS via Healeys wrote:
> For an update on radiators and cooling
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville 
> California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in 
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 
> degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. 
> With a alluminium radiator.
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to? 190 degrees at 70 mph
> This is how? I like to test something. A real life personal test on 
> how a part works.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> We have been dealing with the British? Car industry for only about 70 
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer 
> in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing 
> strictly British Cars the entire time.
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up 
> until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high 
> efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the 
> cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure 
> cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these 
> things helped.
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my 
> own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a 
> highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, 
> perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot 
> running problems here in the central valley of California with the 
> summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110.
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium 
> radiator, with 2 rows of? 1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 
> 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing 
> is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially 
> gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube 
> to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and 
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees 
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic 
> speeds. It was much better? but I wanted to make it better. So I 
> installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all 
> the heating issues are gone.
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and 
> tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test 
> in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried 
> oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my 
> original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is 
> original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little 
> challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.? I 
> have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high 
> speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they 
> should be. Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost 
> impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it 
> has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys 
> <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I live in the sunny South (90?F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but 
> I no longer have to use? it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190?sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC? USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Jul 17 15:54:52 2023
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 14:54:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+ZmA3R5AJ_+9RfKGy1_LcWAt=QodenHPgXcks5qdmVcuA@mail.gmail.com>

David,
Do you use an antifreeze mix or just water and anticorrosion treatment?

-Roland


On Mon, Jul 17, 2023, 1:43 PM David Nock BCS via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> For an update on radiators and cooling
>
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville California,
> Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
>
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 degrees and
> warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
>
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. With a
> alluminium radiator.
>
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph
>
> This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on how a
> part works.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>
>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the
> 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly
> British Cars the entire time.
>
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until
> about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator
> core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks
> to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats,
> installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped.
>
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own
> personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly
> upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD
> ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here
> in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the
> high 90s and upto 110.
>
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium
> radiator, with 2 rows of  1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row
> core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row
> core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube
> to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
>
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to
> fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
>
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic
> speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I installed
> a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating
> issues are gone.
>
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes,
> the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car
> proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored
> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has
> been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every
> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
> the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this
> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <
> sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 17 16:09:01 2023
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 15:09:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+ZmA3R5AJ_+9RfKGy1_LcWAt=QodenHPgXcks5qdmVcuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
 <CADpDe+ZmA3R5AJ_+9RfKGy1_LcWAt=QodenHPgXcks5qdmVcuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E0DCD245D4164B9481307D78754F5E02@DavidNockHP>

50/50 antifreeze and distilled water


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Roland Wilhelmy 
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2023 2:54 PM
To: David Nock BCS 
Cc: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

David, 
Do you use an antifreeze mix or just water and anticorrosion treatment?

-Roland


On Mon, Jul 17, 2023, 1:43 PM David Nock BCS via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  For an update on radiators and cooling

  This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi. 

  If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm. 

  Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. With a alluminium radiator.  

  The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph 

  This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on how a part works.



  David Nock
  British Car Specialists
  209-948-8767
  www.britishcarspecialists.com



  From: David Nock BCS 
  Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
  To: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net 
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

  We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly British Cars the entire time.  

  WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped. 

  I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. 

  I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium radiator, with 2 rows of  1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.

  Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.

  Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.

  So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.



  David Nock
  British Car Specialists
  209-948-8767
  www.britishcarspecialists.com

  From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys 
  Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
  To: healeys at autox.team.net 
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

  I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.  
  Len B

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query 

  My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  
  Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
  Gary H

  On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


  I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.



  Steve Byers

  HBJ8L/36666

  BJ8 Registry

  AHCA Delegate at Large

  Havelock, NC  USA







------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net


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  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Jul 17 16:37:14 2023
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 22:37:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Highlights programs
References: <1060427836.1523734.1689633435065.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1060427836.1523734.1689633435065@mail.yahoo.com>

All from the 70s.? $20 to cover S&H from 23602.? First come, first served.
Keith
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 17 16:40:27 2023
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2023 18:40:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater query
In-Reply-To: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
References: <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6.ref@DavidNockHP>
 <8249FBE00B9D4CCC872FB3830C8F92A6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKwi3OpPG_zwr8L_=vNCM41p0_1dc5fhrqYwR6rhQ+QLQ@mail.gmail.com>

This is great feedback David!


On Mon, Jul 17, 2023 at 4:49?PM David Nock BCS via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> For an update on radiators and cooling
>
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville California,
> Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
>
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 degrees and
> warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
>
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. With a
> alluminium radiator.
>
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph
>
> This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on how a
> part works.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>
>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the
> 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly
> British Cars the entire time.
>
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until
> about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator
> core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks
> to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats,
> installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped.
>
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own
> personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly
> upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD
> ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running problems here
> in the central valley of California with the summer temps always in the
> high 90s and upto 110.
>
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium
> radiator, with 2 rows of  1? tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 2 row
> core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row
> core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube
> to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
>
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to
> fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
>
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic
> speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I installed
> a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all the heating
> issues are gone.
>
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes,
> the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car
> proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored
> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has
> been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every
> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
> the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this
> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <
> sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90? F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
> used to refer to my BJ8?s heater as the ?auxiliary engine cooler?; but I no
> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
> radiator and added a 190? sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Wed Jul 19 04:56:41 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2023 10:56:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB276766298A2354138A9655508C39A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

G'day

Most will remember from about a month back, that no matter what was done, the newly rebuilt early six-cylinder engine of the BN3 refused to start. New points, condenser, etc etc didn't help. We even towed the car up and down our very quiet road and all we managed to achieve was 65lbs oil pressure. The cylinder compression for each cylinder was between 0 and 5lbs.

Needless to say, there was much scratching of heads, but to no avail.

So the car was winched on to a trailer and taken away to a friend's place for some serious fettling. However beforehand I removed the radiator, water pump, hoses and so on. This is no mean feat in the BN3 as most of the radiator (actually the same design as in our Healey Duncan) sits under the shroud with only the rear of the header tank sitting out into the engine bay.

As many said, it had to be the timing, meaning that the timing cover was to be removed. We had visions of removing the carburettors, exhaust manifolds, engine mounts so that the engine could be tilted to gain access to the crankshaft pully nut. But no, as for once there was a real plus in having a DHMC car as apart from a single horizontal bar between the radiator and the engine, the cross braces and everything else was removed to fit the six-cylinder. Even the horizontal bar has been cut away so that the shortened fan blades fit.

The crankshaft nut came away, as did the harmonic balancer and the timing cover.

The nice, pretty and new vernier timing chain was fitted incorrectly. Don't ask me how as it remains a mystery. Everything back together, except for the radiator and its compatriots. Tickle the chokes, pull the throttle and press the solenoid button. Bruum! Away it went.

Since then the cooling bits have been reinstalled and flushed, tappets done and the engine runs very smoothly due to the $$$ spent on balancing. Next is a little panel work and my recommendation is to never try and squeeze a six-cylinder engine through a 100 bonnet opening.

Many thanks to everyone who responded.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 3:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Rebuilt Engine Compression

Hello

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3's rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

Everything is spot on - timing, spark and fuel.

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Jul 19 05:41:39 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2023 07:41:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB276766298A2354138A9655508C39A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <TY2PR0101MB276766298A2354138A9655508C39A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <00d201d9ba35$fb2f62c0$f18e2840$@sympatico.ca>

Fantastic Patrick, and thanks for the follow-up message.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Patrick and
Caroline Quinn via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2023 6:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

 

G'day

 

Most will remember from about a month back, that no matter what was done,
the newly rebuilt early six-cylinder engine of the BN3 refused to start. New
points, condenser, etc etc didn't help. We even towed the car up and down
our very quiet road and all we managed to achieve was 65lbs oil pressure.
The cylinder compression for each cylinder was between 0 and 5lbs.

 

Needless to say, there was much scratching of heads, but to no avail.

 

So the car was winched on to a trailer and taken away to a friend's place
for some serious fettling. However beforehand I removed the radiator, water
pump, hoses and so on. This is no mean feat in the BN3 as most of the
radiator (actually the same design as in our Healey Duncan) sits under the
shroud with only the rear of the header tank sitting out into the engine
bay.

 

As many said, it had to be the timing, meaning that the timing cover was to
be removed. We had visions of removing the carburettors, exhaust manifolds,
engine mounts so that the engine could be tilted to gain access to the
crankshaft pully nut. But no, as for once there was a real plus in having a
DHMC car as apart from a single horizontal bar between the radiator and the
engine, the cross braces and everything else was removed to fit the
six-cylinder. Even the horizontal bar has been cut away so that the
shortened fan blades fit.

 

The crankshaft nut came away, as did the harmonic balancer and the timing
cover.

 

The nice, pretty and new vernier timing chain was fitted incorrectly. Don't
ask me how as it remains a mystery. Everything back together, except for the
radiator and its compatriots. Tickle the chokes, pull the throttle and press
the solenoid button. Bruum! Away it went.

 

Since then the cooling bits have been reinstalled and flushed, tappets done
and the engine runs very smoothly due to the $$$ spent on balancing. Next is
a little panel work and my recommendation is to never try and squeeze a
six-cylinder engine through a 100 bonnet opening.

 

Many thanks to everyone who responded.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 3:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Rebuilt Engine Compression

 

Hello

 

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3's rebuilt
engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill
any life into the engine.

 

Everything is spot on - timing, spark and fuel.

 

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should
be?

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

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From airtightproductions at me.com  Wed Jul 19 09:33:00 2023
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2023 15:33:00 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB276766298A2354138A9655508C39A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <TY2PR0101MB276766298A2354138A9655508C39A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <de58e1fb-a4cf-4936-a35f-9ed6ca8a7bf8@me.com>

Congratulations! And a wonderful discovery! Having just finished building my second engine ever, I can relate to the relief of finding something simple to fix to make it run. Here's to simple fixes and to the patience needed to fix a six cylinder into a four cylinder compartment! Bravo!Steven KingsburyBN1On Jul 19, 2023, at 4:13 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:G?day?Most will remember from about a month back, that no matter what was done, the newly rebuilt early six-cylinder engine of the BN3 refused to start. New points, condenser, etc etc didn?t help. We even towed the car up and down our very quiet
 road and all we managed to achieve was 65lbs oil pressure. The cylinder compression for each cylinder was between 0 and 5lbs.?Needless to say, there was much scratching of heads, but to no avail.?So the car was winched on to a trailer and taken away to a friend?s place for some serious fettling. However beforehand I removed the radiator, water pump, hoses and so on. This is no mean feat in the BN3 as most of the radiator (actually
 the same design as in our Healey Duncan) sits under the shroud with only the rear of the header tank sitting out into the engine bay.?As many said, it had to be the timing, meaning that the timing cover was to be removed. We had visions of removing the carburettors, exhaust manifolds, engine mounts so that the engine could be tilted to gain access to the crankshaft pully
 nut. But no, as for once there was a real plus in having a DHMC car as apart from a single horizontal bar between the radiator and the engine, the cross braces and everything else was removed to fit the six-cylinder. Even the horizontal bar has been cut away
 so that the shortened fan blades fit.?The crankshaft nut came away, as did the harmonic balancer and the timing cover.?The nice, pretty and new vernier timing chain was fitted incorrectly. Don?t ask me how as it remains a mystery. Everything back together, except for the radiator and its compatriots. Tickle the chokes, pull the throttle and press the solenoid
 button. Bruum! Away it went.?Since then the cooling bits have been reinstalled and flushed, tappets done and the engine runs very smoothly due to the $$$ spent on balancing. Next is a little panel work and my recommendation is to never try and squeeze a six-cylinder
 engine through a 100 bonnet opening.?Many thanks to everyone who responded.?Hoo Roo?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia?From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn  Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 3:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Rebuilt Engine Compression?Hello?No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.?Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.?Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be??Many thanks?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jul 19 10:32:51 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2023 16:32:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
Message-ID: <9d4f67979dc93ed6d7d33401ab50b84b58db2947@webmail>

Patrick-was the issue then the placement of the crankshaft gear in
relation to the camshaft sprocket?If so, do not feel bad-this is a
common problem and the markings on the gears are not well done. It was
however the most sensible conclusion that we guessed when compression
was so low-valves not matching piston position.
Unfortunate that this had to happen to a BN3 install with a shoehorned
C block sandwiched in there.My hats off to you for your committed
efforts! It must have been slightly more difficult than this one
(photo) Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Patrick and Caroline
Quinn via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday July 19 2023 4:15:03AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

	G?day 

	Most will remember from about a month back, that no matter what was
done, the newly rebuilt early six-cylinder engine of the BN3 refused
to start. New points, condenser, etc etc didn?t help. We even towed
the car up and down our very quiet road and all we managed to achieve
was 65lbs oil pressure. The cylinder compression for each cylinder was
between 0 and 5lbs. 

	Needless to say, there was much scratching of heads, but to no avail.


	So the car was winched on to a trailer and taken away to a friend?s
place for some serious fettling. However beforehand I removed the
radiator, water pump, hoses and so on. This is no mean feat in the BN3
as most of the radiator (actually the same design as in our Healey
Duncan) sits under the shroud with only the rear of the header tank
sitting out into the engine bay. 

	As many said, it had to be the timing, meaning that the timing cover
was to be removed. We had visions of removing the carburettors,
exhaust manifolds, engine mounts so that the engine could be tilted to
gain access to the crankshaft pully nut. But no, as for once there was
a real plus in having a DHMC car as apart from a single horizontal bar
between the radiator and the engine, the cross braces and everything
else was removed to fit the six-cylinder. Even the horizontal bar has
been cut away so that the shortened fan blades fit. 

	The crankshaft nut came away, as did the harmonic balancer and the
timing cover. 

	The nice, pretty and new vernier timing chain was fitted incorrectly.
Don?t ask me how as it remains a mystery. Everything back together,
except for the radiator and its compatriots. Tickle the chokes, pull
the throttle and press the solenoid button. Bruum! Away it went. 

	Since then the cooling bits have been reinstalled and flushed,
tappets done and the engine runs very smoothly due to the $$$ spent on
balancing. Next is a little panel work and my recommendation is to
never try and squeeze a six-cylinder engine through a 100 bonnet
opening. 

	Many thanks to everyone who responded. 

	Hoo Roo 

	Patrick Quinn 

	Blue Mountains, Australia 

	FROM: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
SENT: Monday, June 12, 2023 3:41 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: Rebuilt Engine Compression   

	Hello 

	No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s
rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road
failed to instill any life into the engine. 

	Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel. 

	Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine
should be? 

	Many thanks 

	Patrick Quinn 

	Blue Mountains, Australia
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 24 10:58:30 2023
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 09:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
Message-ID: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>

No posts for a week.? Is the list up? down? sideways?

Mike
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Jul 24 11:49:58 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 10:49:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>

Though I have owned an Austin-Healey for 7+ years it has only been on the
road this year and I am still learning what is normal operation. When I
park the car after a reasonably long drive a few drops of unidentified
hydrocarbon liquid end up on the garage floor under the inlet manifold
fuel drain pipes. Is this normal operation?

It stands to reason there wouldn't be drain pipes unless there was a need
to drain something!

Harold
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 24 11:54:52 2023
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 10:54:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F6AD8E4B33A3465AB2C938658F24D49F@MargaretPC>


On my computer it is landscape view.  Does that make it sideways?

              The Other Len
1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII BJ8
                HBJ8L39031
              222,303 miles

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Sinclair 
  To: Healey List 
  Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 9:58 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] Up?


  No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?

  Mike




---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Mon Jul 24 12:09:21 2023
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 18:09:21 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0480889d-01f6-4993-8cd6-36bb5cb9083b@me.com>

My bet is "sideways"!?SOn Jul 24, 2023, at 10:39 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:No posts for a week.? Is the
          list up? down? sideways?Mike_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 24 12:16:40 2023
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 18:16:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <534880741.2496998.1690222600441@mail.yahoo.com>

Come to think of it, I haven?t either?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Monday, July 24, 2023, 1:32 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

  
No posts for a week.? Is the list up? down? sideways?
 
Mike
 
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net




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From jnew at hazelden.ca  Mon Jul 24 12:17:55 2023
From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 14:17:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9151976.CDJkKcVGEf@johnpc>

Every time a message is posted to the list, it is saved in the Archive.

If anyone ever wonders if a team.net list is up, simply go to the relevant list archive (the link to which is near the bottom of every email from the list), and click on the "Date" link in the "View by" column for the most recent month.

If that page, or the archive page, doesn't come up, then maybe there's something wrong at team.net. However, if that page does come up, team.net is probably ok.

Scroll down to the bottom of the list of messages. If the last message in the list matches the last message you received, everything's probably good and the list has just been quiet. But if there are a whole bunch of messages listed since the last one you received, maybe you've been dropped from the list.

In that case, go to the "Unsubscribe/Manage" link at the bottom of every list message, log in and view your profile to see if there's a problem.

John New
London, Ontario, Canada


On Monday, July 24, 2023 12:58:30 P.M. EDT Mike Sinclair wrote:
> No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?
> 
> Mike
> 





From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Mon Jul 24 12:43:15 2023
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 13:43:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjrV--Nj72_yHxx_DmMrLVaQSg0sS0U4xZZV1WgGj_-VJw@mail.gmail.com>

Roasted or broiled!

Neil A.




On Mon, Jul 24, 2023, 12:46 PM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

> No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com
>
>
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 24 12:47:28 2023
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 11:47:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <534880741.2496998.1690222600441@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
 <534880741.2496998.1690222600441@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <19f375a7-33d0-863e-7f69-b3327bc9d263@comcast.net>

Well, I got lots of answers, some useful, so I guess its "up". We shall see.

Mike

On 7/24/23 11:16 AM, John Sims wrote:
> Come to think of it, I haven?t either
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS 
> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023, 1:32 PM, Mike Sinclair 
> <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>     No posts for a week.? Is the list up? down? sideways?
>
>     Mike
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net
>
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 24 12:49:29 2023
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 14:49:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0C736474-27F1-4259-97EA-D75AEF62FD7C@yahoo.com>

Is it allowed to advertise a Healey for sale on the list ?  Not my 67 , but a 65 BJ8 I
Want to sell . 
           Don , 67 BJ8
       

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2023, at 1:34 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?
> 
> Mike
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 24 14:01:41 2023
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 16:01:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdjuQzFM0nkYJ+mHQ+XQTMa0GYO_=zCfd6=W4fTHxY2X=A@mail.gmail.com>

Received your post. Everyone must be on vacation.
Elton

On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 1:29?PM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
wrote:

> No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Jul 24 16:22:45 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 18:22:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019401d9be7d$5f370110$1da50330$@sympatico.ca>

Hi Harold,  I don?t think they should be draining anything on a regular basis.  I have never had anything come out of the pipes on my BT7, and I assumed they were there only to drain the inlet gallery if excessive fuel accumulated there.  Under normal operation, I did not think anything should come out, but others may have a different experience.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 1:50 PM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes

 

Though I have owned an Austin-Healey for 7+ years it has only been on the road this year and I am still learning what is normal operation. When I park the car after a reasonably long drive a few drops of unidentified hydrocarbon liquid end up on the garage floor under the inlet manifold fuel drain pipes. Is this normal operation?

 

It stands to reason there wouldn't be drain pipes unless there was a need to drain something!

 

Harold

 

 

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 24 18:35:04 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 17:35:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjrV--Nj72_yHxx_DmMrLVaQSg0sS0U4xZZV1WgGj_-VJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
 <CAHZDnjrV--Nj72_yHxx_DmMrLVaQSg0sS0U4xZZV1WgGj_-VJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <316a01d9be8f$db4fc860$91ef5920$@gmail.com>

Top up = baked?

Top down = broiled ?

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Neil Anderson
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 11:43 AM
To: Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Up?

 

Roasted or broiled!

 

Neil A.

 

 

 

On Mon, Jul 24, 2023, 12:46 PM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net <mailto:phoenix722 at comcast.net> > wrote:

No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?

Mike

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 24 19:45:02 2023
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2023 18:45:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Up?
In-Reply-To: <9151976.CDJkKcVGEf@johnpc>
References: <d7bd4510-8a50-134f-1ef3-2cca35027da2@comcast.net>
 <9151976.CDJkKcVGEf@johnpc>
Message-ID: <f03f3f19-6ced-ee07-8b77-959815027080@comcast.net>

Thanks, John, but then I wouldn't get all these "oh so helpful" answers! :)

Mike

On 7/24/23 11:17 AM, John P. New wrote:
> Every time a message is posted to the list, it is saved in the Archive.
>
> If anyone ever wonders if a team.net list is up, simply go to the relevant list archive (the link to which is near the bottom of every email from the list), and click on the "Date" link in the "View by" column for the most recent month.
>
> If that page, or the archive page, doesn't come up, then maybe there's something wrong at team.net. However, if that page does come up, team.net is probably ok.
>
> Scroll down to the bottom of the list of messages. If the last message in the list matches the last message you received, everything's probably good and the list has just been quiet. But if there are a whole bunch of messages listed since the last one you received, maybe you've been dropped from the list.
>
> In that case, go to the "Unsubscribe/Manage" link at the bottom of every list message, log in and view your profile to see if there's a problem.
>
> John New
> London, Ontario, Canada
>
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 12:58:30 P.M. EDT Mike Sinclair wrote:
>> No posts for a week.  Is the list up? down? sideways?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 25 07:35:51 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2023 13:35:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
In-Reply-To: <019401d9be7d$5f370110$1da50330$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <019401d9be7d$5f370110$1da50330$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <1306929811.4019367.1690292151962@mail.yahoo.com>

 It would seem to me that after a reasonably long drive the heat in the engine, exhaust manifold, etc would vaporize any fuel in the intake manifold. Next time you see the drips on the floor turn on you ignition switch, but do not start the engine. Listen to the fuel pump to determine that it stops pumping after a few seconds to verify that the pump & carb floats are functioning correctly. Assuming you have an original fuel pump. Also, verify that the liquid is fuel & that it is coming from the intake manifold drain tubes & not the carb float bowl overflow tube(s).Gary Hodson? ?
    On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 09:57:35 PM CDT, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:  
 
 
Hi Harold,? I don?t think they should be draining anything on a regular basis.? I have never had anything come out of the pipes on my BT7, and I assumed they were there only to drain the inlet gallery if excessive fuel accumulated there.? Under normal operation, I did not think anything should come out, but others may have a different experience.

 ?

Mirek

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 1:50 PM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes

 ?

Though I have owned an Austin-Healey for 7+ years it has only been on the road this year and I am still learning?what is normal operation. When I park the car after a reasonably long drive a few drops of unidentified hydrocarbon liquid end up on the garage floor under the inlet manifold fuel?drain?pipes. Is this normal operation?

 ?

It stands to reason there wouldn't be drain pipes unless there was a need to drain something!

 ?

Harold

 ?

 ?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Jul 25 08:06:04 2023
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2023 10:06:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] An Inteview with a Healey Assembly Line Worker
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfO=rTywxs_V-Ey1+mivKL2Qc4Ydxxv8Cx6ofiOmTT07w@mail.gmail.com>

While doing my regular peripatetics around the internet I found these two
wonderful articles on the Jensen Museum website. I thought you might all be
interested in the description of the way the Healeys were assembled:
https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-track-kendricks-recollections/ plus
the info on the Healey contract:
https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/

Enjoy and Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville, aka "HealeyRick"
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Tue Jul 25 08:22:09 2023
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2023 10:22:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
In-Reply-To: <1306929811.4019367.1690292151962@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <019401d9be7d$5f370110$1da50330$@sympatico.ca>
 <1306929811.4019367.1690292151962@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYxrdTz23L+gBzEgVo+4WjtcsyrOvv+dr_0T58HPu=_ULw@mail.gmail.com>

I would taste it to see what it is.

On Tue, Jul 25, 2023 at 9:55?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> It would seem to me that after a reasonably long drive the heat in the
> engine, exhaust manifold, etc would vaporize any fuel in the intake
> manifold. Next time you see the drips on the floor turn on you ignition
> switch, but do not start the engine. Listen to the fuel pump to determine
> that it stops pumping after a few seconds to verify that the pump & carb
> floats are functioning correctly. Assuming you have an original fuel pump.
> Also, verify that the liquid is fuel & that it is coming from the intake
> manifold drain tubes & not the carb float bowl overflow tube(s).
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 09:57:35 PM CDT, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <
> m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Harold,  I don?t think they should be draining anything on a regular
> basis.  I have never had anything come out of the pipes on my BT7, and I
> assumed they were there only to drain the inlet gallery if excessive fuel
> accumulated there.  Under normal operation, I did not think anything should
> come out, but others may have a different experience.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold
> Manifold
> *Sent:* Monday, July 24, 2023 1:50 PM
> *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
>
>
>
> Though I have owned an Austin-Healey for 7+ years it has only been on the
> road this year and I am still learning what is normal operation. When I
> park the car after a reasonably long drive a few drops of unidentified
> hydrocarbon liquid end up on the garage floor under the inlet manifold
> fuel drain pipes. Is this normal operation?
>
>
>
> It stands to reason there wouldn't be drain pipes unless there was a need
> to drain something!
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Tue Jul 25 16:46:28 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2023 22:46:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] An Inteview with a Healey Assembly Line Worker
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfO=rTywxs_V-Ey1+mivKL2Qc4Ydxxv8Cx6ofiOmTT07w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfO=rTywxs_V-Ey1+mivKL2Qc4Ydxxv8Cx6ofiOmTT07w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB27671E7B0BB2FF4A32DDFB478C03A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello

Nice to see that our BN3 is mentioned in the Healey Contract article.

Thanks Rick

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 12:06 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] An Inteview with a Healey Assembly Line Worker

While doing my regular peripatetics around the internet I found these two wonderful articles on the Jensen Museum website. I thought you might all be interested in the description of the way the Healeys were assembled: https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-track-kendricks-recollections/ plus the info on the Healey contract: https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/

Enjoy and Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville, aka "HealeyRick"
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Jul 25 20:55:14 2023
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2023 19:55:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?drain_pipes?=
Message-ID: <20230726025514.39249.qmail@server278.com>

the only time i have ever seen fuel drip from my drain pipes is on cold mornings when i use the choke.  once engine warm do no see any more dripping.

From ggilliam at usol.com  Wed Jul 26 05:21:03 2023
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 07:21:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] drain pipes
In-Reply-To: <20230726025514.39249.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726025514.39249.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <6ccc0e0b1faf57c67d21b8d50a2b2321@usol.com>

This may indicate the fuel level in the float chambers is too high, 
allowing fuel flow into the carbs.

Gordy, Longbridge BN4




From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 26 08:01:16 2023
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 14:01:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interview with assembly line worker
Message-ID: <PH7P221MB100759F225C311B856F9C51BD400A@PH7P221MB1007.NAMP221.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Great article.  I wish there was more detail about how the panels were "wired" to the body. I've always felt the concours cars should be painted as they were at the factory (primer showing in areas, minimal paint coverage areas, etc.).  I realize that for protection purposes most are painted inside and out with full coverage, but correct is correct.  I believe the doors were mounted during painting, and I'd love to know more about how the bonnet and boot were wired to the body, or if they were wired up apart from the body.

I know Geoff Chrysler did a nice job replicating the found undercoating brush strokes on his 100.

I'd love to paint my BN1 as "done at the factory". Maybe it's not known how it was generally done, because I've read for example that some early cars have been found with black frames and white exteriors. And at the end of the day they were in the business of selling cars, and cutting costs.

Shawn
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Jul 26 09:24:26 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 16:24:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCB_AOpNpnh3CFn8+RmtbeYHNyYWTuqeGn8MDjiGooirrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501d9bfd5$44a789b0$cdf69d10$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Are you convinced that it?s petrol? 100%?

By the time water runs off a Healey engine and hits the floor, it?s pretty oily?..

Can you see the core plugs along there? 

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: 24 July 2023 18:50
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Inlet Manifold Fuel Drain Pipes

 

Though I have owned an Austin-Healey for 7+ years it has only been on the road this year and I am still learning what is normal operation. When I park the car after a reasonably long drive a few drops of unidentified hydrocarbon liquid end up on the garage floor under the inlet manifold fuel drain pipes. Is this normal operation?

 

It stands to reason there wouldn't be drain pipes unless there was a need to drain something!

 

Harold

 

 

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Jul 26 09:39:42 2023
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 08:39:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?electrical_problem?=
Message-ID: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>

changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.  could the new battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 26 10:39:11 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 12:39:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ_kuzB9OYv0ECHzo7=MaY1g_hY2FrnypVwYm1zrvmA-g@mail.gmail.com>

I would guess that the battery polarity was incorrect.
Many electronic devices will not tolerate reversed polarity.

M

On Wed., Jul. 26, 2023, 12:33 p.m. healeymanjim, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

> changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was
> gone.  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and
> discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.
> could the new battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my
> ignorance in this area of expertise.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 26 10:41:02 2023
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Ricchardd Mayor)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 09:41:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <4E6CB6CB-B87F-44B7-92D1-12A0BAE65BA1@gmail.com>

Is the car positive or negative ground?

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Jul 26, 2023, at 8:39 AM, healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> 
> changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.  could the new battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 


From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jul 26 11:10:30 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 17:10:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
Message-ID: <3577eb52c513cc97c2a466b0c222c45753a9b5bf@webmail>

Polarity issue. Original BN4 was positive ground. If all was
converted, at some point, to neg ground and new battery was installed
as original, those two items and any gauges that were neg. ground
would be gone. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "healeymanjim" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday July 26 2023 9:48:43AM
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem

 changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was
gone. replaced battery and now after a few weeks go to start it and
discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are
kaputt. could the new battery have done something to cause this. i
confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1]
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 />
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 />
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Links:
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[1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 26 11:43:52 2023
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 13:43:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <BEB01044-AD79-444B-BB41-B7B1098ACB28@aol.com>

Were the fuel pump and ignition set up for positive or negative ground? Which way was the battery installed?
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2023, at 12:39 PM, healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> 
> ?changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.  could the new battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 26 12:15:46 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 20:15:46 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <5dc13987-68ee-1a99-4e7e-352477690ca9@chello.nl>

Are you sure the electronic ignition and the fuel pump are damaged? It 
may be that they both are on the same circuit and that a fuse has blown 
or an electrical connection may have been dislodged. Can you measure any 
volts at the ignition and/or fuel pump feed wire?

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 26-7-2023 om 17:39 schreef healeymanjim:
> changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.  could the new battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.
> _______________________________________________
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 26 12:44:19 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 11:44:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>

Hi Jim:

It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed would cause
this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that what ever took out the
old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits. 

Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? Is there
anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  Maybe time for a
tune-N-tech session to dive into it...

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of healeymanjim
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem

changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and discover both
solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.  could the new
battery have done something to cause this.  i confess my ignorance in this
area of expertise.
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Wed Jul 26 14:58:37 2023
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2023 20:58:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ_kuzB9OYv0ECHzo7=MaY1g_hY2FrnypVwYm1zrvmA-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ_kuzB9OYv0ECHzo7=MaY1g_hY2FrnypVwYm1zrvmA-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <612600031.5739895.1690405117027@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have seen this happen if the key was turned and the points were closed and it was left in that position. Also, the coil gets warm (or hot).
Ben CohenBN1BN7BJ8...
    On Wednesday, July 26, 2023 at 12:35:06 PM MST, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I would guess that the battery polarity was incorrect.Many electronic devices will not tolerate reversed polarity.?
M
On Wed., Jul. 26, 2023, 12:33 p.m. healeymanjim, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:

changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.? replaced battery and now after a few weeks? go to start it and discover both solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are kaputt.? could the new battery have done something to cause this.? i confess my ignorance in this area of expertise.
_______________________________________________
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 27 10:24:32 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2023 09:24:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>

All: Following is Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue. 

Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem

al, this is the third solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put the electrics from my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.  

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>, 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44
>  
>  Hi Jim:
>  
>  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed would 
> cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that what ever 
> took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  
>  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? Is 
> there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  Maybe 
> time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of 
> healeymanjim
>  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and 
> discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are 
> kaputt.  could the new  battery have done something to cause this.  i 
> confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation
>  $12.75
>  
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>  
>  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>  
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 27 16:20:46 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2023 15:20:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>

car is positive ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51
>  
>  All: Following is Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  
>  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
>  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM
>  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>  Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  al, this is the third solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put 
> the electrics from my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  > healeys at autox.team.net 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem  
> >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >
>  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed would  
> > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that what ever  
> > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >
>  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? Is  
> > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  Maybe  
> > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of  > 
> healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To: 
> healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  
> changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and  > 
> discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are  > 
> kaputt.  could the new  battery have done something to cause this.  i  
> > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual  
> > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>  >  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>  >
>  >  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>  >
>  >  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  >  
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html  Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>  
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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>  
>  Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeymanjim at hansencc.ne
> t
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 27 16:25:40 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2023 15:25:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
 <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <935e01d9c0d9$4697ccd0$d3c76670$@gmail.com>

Jim - is it safe to assume the fuel pump that quit was also a negative ground unit, on the positive ground car?  

If so, then the troubleshooting is at the end.  If not, there may still be an issue somewhere....

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2023 3:21 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem

car is positive ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51
>  
>  All: Following is Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  
>  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
>  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM
>  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>  Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  al, this is the third solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put 
> the electrics from my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  > healeys at autox.team.net 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem
> >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >
>  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed would
> > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that what ever 
> > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >
>  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? Is
> > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  Maybe 
> > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of  > 
> healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To:
> healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  > 
> changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and  > 
> discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are  > 
> kaputt.  could the new  battery have done something to cause this.  i
> > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>  >  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>  >
>  >  Healeys at autox.team.net
>  >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>  >
>  >  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  
>  _______________________________________________
>  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html  Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>  
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Jul 28 11:46:58 2023
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 10:46:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?fuel_pump?=
Message-ID: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>

i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 28 12:24:31 2023
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:24:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] An Inteview with a Healey Assembly Line Worker
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfO=rTywxs_V-Ey1+mivKL2Qc4Ydxxv8Cx6ofiOmTT07w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfO=rTywxs_V-Ey1+mivKL2Qc4Ydxxv8Cx6ofiOmTT07w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5df702af-f344-318a-639c-555dbc1c601e@comcast.net>

Thank you, Rick.? Very interesting.

Mike

On 7/25/23 7:06 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> While doing my regular peripatetics around the internet I found these 
> two wonderful articles on the Jensen Museum website. I thought you 
> might all be interested in the description of the way the Healeys were 
> assembled: 
> https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-track-kendricks-recollections/?plus 
> the info on the Healey contract: 
> https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/
>
> Enjoy and Happy Healeying,
> Rick Neville, aka "HealeyRick"
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 28 12:48:12 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:48:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230728142055.64320.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
 <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
 <935e01d9c0d9$4697ccd0$d3c76670$@gmail.com>
 <20230728142055.64320.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <944801d9c184$1030fcb0$3092f610$@gmail.com>

all i know is that the car is positive gnd now and will stay that way for a while.  most people convert to neg gnd so they can add gps, radio, phone charger, etc.  he apparently does not plan to do that.  if it had been converted to neg gnd, there were no stickers stating that and the battery was hooked up pos gnd.  

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 27 '23 21:53
>  
>  Jim - is it safe to assume the fuel pump that quit was also a 
> negative ground unit, on the positive ground car?
>  
>  If so, then the troubleshooting is at the end.  If not, there may still be an issue somewhere....
>  
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2023 3:21 PM
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  car is positive ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: [Healeys] 
> electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51  >  >  All: Following is 
> Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  >
>  >  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>  >  Sent: 
> Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM  >  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com  >  
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  al, this is the third 
> solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put  > the electrics from 
> my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  >
>  >  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  > 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  > 
> healeys at autox.team.net  > <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE: 
> [Healeys] electrical problem  > >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >  >
>  >  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed 
> would  > > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that 
> what ever  > > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >  >
>  >  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? 
> Is  > > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  
> Maybe  > > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >  >
>  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >
>  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >
>  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of  >  
> > healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To:
>  > healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  
> >  > changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and  
> >  > discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are  
> >  > kaputt.  could the new  battery have done something to cause 
> this.  i  > > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested 
> annual  > > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive:
>  > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> > donation  $12.75  >  >  Archive: 
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 28 12:55:44 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 11:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <944801d9c184$1030fcb0$3092f610$@gmail.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
 <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
 <935e01d9c0d9$4697ccd0$d3c76670$@gmail.com>
 <20230728142055.64320.qmail@server278.com>
 <944801d9c184$1030fcb0$3092f610$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <94b801d9c185$1d9f4a90$58dddfb0$@gmail.com>

OK Jim - sounds like it's all done!

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 11:48 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem

all i know is that the car is positive gnd now and will stay that way for a while.  most people convert to neg gnd so they can add gps, radio, phone charger, etc.  he apparently does not plan to do that.  if it had been converted to neg gnd, there were no stickers stating that and the battery was hooked up pos gnd.  

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 27 '23 21:53
>  
>  Jim - is it safe to assume the fuel pump that quit was also a 
> negative ground unit, on the positive ground car?
>  
>  If so, then the troubleshooting is at the end.  If not, there may still be an issue somewhere....
>  
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2023 3:21 PM
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  car is positive ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: [Healeys] 
> electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51  >  >  All: Following is 
> Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  >
>  >  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>  >  Sent: 
> Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM  >  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com  >
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  al, this is the third 
> solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put  > the electrics from 
> my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  >
>  >  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  > 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  > 
> healeys at autox.team.net  > <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE:
> [Healeys] electrical problem  > >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >  >
>  >  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed 
> would  > > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that 
> what ever  > > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >  >
>  >  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement? 
> Is  > > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't work?  
> Maybe  > > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >  >
>  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >
>  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >
>  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of  >
> > healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To:
>  > healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem  >
> >  > changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it and
> >  > discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic ignition are  
> > > kaputt.  could the new  battery have done something to cause
> this.  i  > > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested 
> annual  > > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive:
>  > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>  >  >  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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>  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
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>  >
>  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html  Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75  >  >  Archive: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>  > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 28 15:37:47 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 14:37:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>

Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more knowledge
than me can respond.

That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel pump. I
would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered and not work,
but not suffer for the experience...

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of healeymanjim
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump

i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low battery
can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i replaced was
so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs removed.  any info
on this anyplace on the internet?
_______________________________________________
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$12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 28 19:59:44 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2023 18:59:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>

Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave 
the electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and 
open the points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd 
still have current flowing through the electromagnet, which could 
overheat and, well, fry.


On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more knowledge
> than me can respond.
>
> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel pump. I
> would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered and not work,
> but not suffer for the experience...
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of healeymanjim
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low battery
> can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i replaced was
> so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs removed.  any info
> on this anyplace on the internet?
>


From r3m1g4 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 29 09:04:46 2023
From: r3m1g4 at gmail.com (r3m1g4 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 11:04:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000d01d9c22e$03c72fd0$0b558f70$@gmail.com>

Surely the manufacturers of the pump have addressed this question.  Has
anyone looked at the pump specification for "minimum voltage"?
Mike
Mike Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave the
electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and open the
points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and, well,
fry.


On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more 
> knowledge than me can respond.
>
> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel 
> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered 
> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of 
> healeymanjim
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low 
> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i 
> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs 
> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jul 29 09:22:57 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 08:22:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dynamo Bearing Number
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCA6Umuo60nOcMXySL8=Ek6pq9UkMoo=yvgLvCrDYLm8pQ@mail.gmail.com>

My dynamo is giving me the signal it is time for a new front bearing. Does
anyone know the universal bearing number for a Sealed Ball Bearing to
replace "Bearing - drive end 7H5021"?

Thanks.... Harold
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Jul 29 10:33:10 2023
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 12:33:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 wiring diagram?
Message-ID: <540273500.304240.1690648395244@epix.net>

I?m trying to bench-test a pair of Lucas wiper motors, and I no longer have a workshop manual?does anyone have a wiring diagram copy they could send me off-list?
Thanks!
Sarah Carr
ex-BN1 in PA 

Sent from Mail for Windows

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul 29 11:03:26 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 19:03:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Dynamo Bearing Number
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCA6Umuo60nOcMXySL8=Ek6pq9UkMoo=yvgLvCrDYLm8pQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCA6Umuo60nOcMXySL8=Ek6pq9UkMoo=yvgLvCrDYLm8pQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12906cee-54cb-f687-3e26-ddcb80868fab@chello.nl>

Best to remove the bearing first to make sure you get the right 
replacement. There might be variations. The numbers are usually on the 
side of the outer ring. It will most likely be a standard bearing . 
Could be metric. Often used on dynamo's are metric SKF/TIMKEN/FAG etc 
6202-2RS or 627-2RS check first.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 29-7-2023 om 17:22 schreef Harold Manifold:
> My dynamo is giving me the signal it is time for a new front bearing. 
> Does anyone know the universal bearing number for a Sealed Ball 
> Bearing to replace "Bearing - drive end 7H5021"?
>
> Thanks.... Harold
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 29 14:12:55 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 13:12:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <20230729190939.34135.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
 <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
 <935e01d9c0d9$4697ccd0$d3c76670$@gmail.com>
 <20230728142055.64320.qmail@server278.com>
 <944801d9c184$1030fcb0$3092f610$@gmail.com>
 <94b801d9c185$1d9f4a90$58dddfb0$@gmail.com>
 <20230729190939.34135.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <963001d9c259$107d8640$317892c0$@gmail.com>

fired it up this morning.  started instantly.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 28 '23 16:09
>  
>  OK Jim - sounds like it's all done!
>  
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 11:48 AM
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  all i know is that the car is positive gnd now and will stay that way 
> for a while.  most people convert to neg gnd so they can add gps, radio, phone charger, etc.  he apparently does not plan to do that.  if it had been converted to neg gnd, there were no stickers stating that and the battery was hooked up pos gnd.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: Re: 
> [Healeys] electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 21:53  >  >  Jim - 
> is it safe to assume the fuel pump that quit was also a  > negative 
> ground unit, on the positive ground car?
>  >
>  >  If so, then the troubleshooting is at the end.  If not, there may still be an issue somewhere....
>  >
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  Sent: 
> Thursday, July 27, 2023 3:21 PM  >  To: healeys at autox.team.net  >  
> Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  car is positive 
> ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.
>  >
>  >  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  > healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: 
> [Healeys]  > electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51  >  >  All: 
> Following is  > Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  >  >
>  >  >  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >
>  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >
>  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>  >  Sent:
>  > Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM  >  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com  >  
> > Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  al, this is the 
> third  > solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put  > the 
> electrics from  > my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  >  >
>  >  >  >  -------Original Message-------  >  >  >  From: 
> alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  >  > 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  >  > 
> healeys at autox.team.net  > <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE:
>  > [Healeys] electrical problem  > >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed  
> > would  > > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that  
> > what ever  > > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement?
>  > Is  > > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't 
> work?  > Maybe  > > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of  
> >  > > healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To:
>  >  > healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem  
> >  > >  > changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  >  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it 
> and  > >  > discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic 
> ignition are  > > > kaputt.  could the new  battery have done 
> something to cause  > this.  i  > > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  >  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  >  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested  
> > annual  > > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive:
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 29 22:34:57 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 21:34:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <963001d9c259$107d8640$317892c0$@gmail.com>
References: <20230726153942.31101.qmail@server278.com>
 <8c7401d9bff1$303c9300$90b5b900$@gmail.com>
 <20230726211949.10862.qmail@server278.com>
 <91a301d9c0a6$d38ce270$7aa6a750$@gmail.com>
 <20230727220810.62430.qmail@server278.com>
 <934d01d9c0d8$975354b0$c5f9fe10$@gmail.com>
 <935e01d9c0d9$4697ccd0$d3c76670$@gmail.com>
 <20230728142055.64320.qmail@server278.com>
 <944801d9c184$1030fcb0$3092f610$@gmail.com>
 <94b801d9c185$1d9f4a90$58dddfb0$@gmail.com>
 <20230729190939.34135.qmail@server278.com>
 <963001d9c259$107d8640$317892c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <968101d9c29f$321d7440$96585cc0$@gmail.com>

Great news, jim - congrats!

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2023 1:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem

fired it up this morning.  started instantly.

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  Sent: Jul 28 '23 16:09
>  
>  OK Jim - sounds like it's all done!
>  
>  ----------------
>  All the best,
>  
>  Al Fuller
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
>  Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 11:48 AM
>  To: healeys at autox.team.net
>  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
>  
>  all i know is that the car is positive gnd now and will stay that way 
> for a while.  most people convert to neg gnd so they can add gps, radio, phone charger, etc.  he apparently does not plan to do that.  if it had been converted to neg gnd, there were no stickers stating that and the battery was hooked up pos gnd.
>  
>  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To: 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: Re: 
> [Healeys] electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 21:53  >  >  Jim - 
> is it safe to assume the fuel pump that quit was also a  > negative 
> ground unit, on the positive ground car?
>  >
>  >  If so, then the troubleshooting is at the end.  If not, there may still be an issue somewhere....
>  >
>  >  ----------------
>  >  All the best,
>  >
>  >  Al Fuller
>  >
>  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  Sent: 
> Thursday, July 27, 2023 3:21 PM  >  To: healeys at autox.team.net  >
> Subject: FW: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  car is positive 
> ground.  the distributor had a module for neg gnd in it.  petronix technician could not believe it worked as long as it did.   my old fuel pump works fine on his car and it is a pos gnd.   not sure exactly what did happen, but i know that on joel goldberg's BT7 we put a new battery in and found out later the posts were in wrong.  they gave us a new one but no damage was done as nothing was solid state.  i am staying away from solid state units, they scare me.   putting this one back to a points system so that i can fix it when it breaks.
>  >
>  >  >  -------Original Message-------
>  >  >  From: alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  > healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: 
> [Healeys]  > electrical problem  >  Sent: Jul 27 '23 11:51  >  >  All: 
> Following is  > Jim's response to one of our emails - I think I failed to make it to the list, but might informative in helping troubleshoot the issue.
>  >  >
>  >  >  Jim: we all have several questions, including is the car negative or positive ground, does anything else on the car not work, is it possible the key was left on the 'on' position for an extended time?
>  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >
>  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >
>  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>  >  Sent:
>  > Wednesday, July 26, 2023 2:20 PM  >  To: alfuller194 at gmail.com  >
> > Subject: RE: [Healeys] electrical problem  >  >  al, this is the
> third  > solid state fuel pump that has quit on me.  put  > the 
> electrics from  > my spare on his pump body and it works fine.  do not know problem with dizzy.  did not do anything to it.  battery was installed exactly like the old one.
>  >  >
>  >  >  >  -------Original Message-------  >  >  >  From: 
> alfuller194 at gmail.com <alfuller194 at gmail.com>  >  To:
>  >  > 'healeymanjim' <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>,  >  > 
> healeys at autox.team.net  > <healeys at autox.team.net>  >  Subject: RE:
>  > [Healeys] electrical problem  > >  Sent: Jul 26 '23 11:44  >  >  Hi Jim:
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  It's hard to think of how a good battery properly installed
> > would  > > cause  this. On the other hand, it seems more likely that 
> > what ever  > > took out the  old battery has also now taken out other devices in the circuits.
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  Did the car start and drive OK after the battery replacement?
>  > Is  > > there  anything else electrical on the car that doesn't 
> work?  > Maybe  > > time for a  tune-N-tech session to dive into it...
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  ----------------
>  >  >  >  All the best,
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  Al Fuller
>  >  >  >
>  >  >  >  -----Original Message-----
>  >  >  >  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
> >  > > healeymanjim  >  Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2023 8:40 AM  >  To:
>  >  > healeys at autox.team.net  >  Subject: [Healeys] electrical problem
> >  > >  > changing a headgasket on a club members BN4 and realized battery was gone.
>  >  >  >  replaced battery and now after a few weeks  go to start it 
> and  > >  > discover both  solid state fuel pump and electronic 
> ignition are  > > > kaputt.  could the new  battery have done 
> something to cause  > this.  i  > > confess my ignorance in this  area of expertise.
>  >  >  >  _______________________________________________
>  >  >  >  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested
> > annual  > > donation  >  $12.75  >  >  Archive:
>  >  > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 29 22:44:58 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2023 21:44:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>

Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is something to
think about...

On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The car is
due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the European
Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new batteries before
going anywhere.  This was despite most everyone having printed 'starting and
storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master switch to be
used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...

As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is Trollstigen
['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave the
electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and open the
points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and, well,
fry.


On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more 
> knowledge than me can respond.
>
> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel 
> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered 
> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of 
> healeymanjim
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low 
> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i 
> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs 
> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 30 07:59:31 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 06:59:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>

That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on? 
Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off. 
I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.

'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few 
weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current 
continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall 
since most are now produced in Mexico.


On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is something to
> think about...
>
> On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The car is
> due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the European
> Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
> ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
> also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new batteries before
> going anywhere.  This was despite most everyone having printed 'starting and
> storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master switch to be
> used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
>
> As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is Trollstigen
> ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
> https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave the
> electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and open the
> points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
> current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and, well,
> fry.
>
>
> On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
>> knowledge than me can respond.
>>
>> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel
>> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered
>> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>>
>> ----------------
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
>> healeymanjim
>> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>>
>> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
>> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i
>> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs
>> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>>
>
>


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 30 08:37:22 2023
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 10:37:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

He said *"When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had*
*ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch*
*also left on**"* which would explain why the batteries were run down.

Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were closed
would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set of points?

On Sun, Jul 30, 2023 at 10:17?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on?
> Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off.
> I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.
>
> 'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few
> weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current
> continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall
> since most are now produced in Mexico.
>
>
> On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> > Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is something
> to
> > think about...
> >
> > On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The
> car is
> > due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the
> European
> > Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
> > ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
> > also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new batteries
> before
> > going anywhere.  This was despite most everyone having printed 'starting
> and
> > storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master switch
> to be
> > used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
> >
> > As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is Trollstigen
> > ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
> > https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
> >
> > ----------------
> > All the best,
> >
> > Al Fuller
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
> >
> > Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave
> the
> > electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and open
> the
> > points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
> > current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and,
> well,
> > fry.
> >
> >
> > On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> >> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
> >> knowledge than me can respond.
> >>
> >> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel
> >> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered
> >> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
> >>
> >> ----------------
> >> All the best,
> >>
> >> Al Fuller
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
> >> healeymanjim
> >> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
> >>
> >> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
> >> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i
> >> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs
> >> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
> >>
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 30 08:51:48 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 07:51:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <60d375e1-0c83-79fd-2fd7-9072cd5be45e@comcast.net>

re: "He said /"When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several 
had//ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master 
switch/
/also left on//"/?which would explain why the batteries were run down."

Dang. Missed that (still on my first cup of coffee). But, how do they 
shut their engines down if they leave the ignition on? That's one 
screw-up I've never managed in 55 years of driving (sometimes, it's hard 
to shut them down even with the ignition turned off). They would have 
had to leave their keys in the ignition; is that required for shipping?

re: "Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were 
closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set 
of points?"

The points should be able to handle the load, limited by coil impedance; 
it's when opening the points suffer erosion. The coil would likely be 
damaged, though, since without the engine running the primary coil 
circuit is almost a dead short(usually 1-3 ohms impedance).


On 7/30/2023 7:37 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Bob--
>
> He said /"When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had/
> /ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master 
> switch/
> /also left on//"/?which would explain why the batteries were run down.
>
> Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were 
> closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set 
> of points?
>
> On Sun, Jul 30, 2023 at 10:17?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>     That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on?
>     Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off.
>     I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.
>
>     'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in
>     a few
>     weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current
>     continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall
>     since most are now produced in Mexico.
>
>
>     On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>     > Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is
>     something to
>     > think about...
>     >
>     > On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own
>     battery!? The car is
>     > due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from
>     the European
>     > Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June,
>     several had
>     > ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery
>     master switch
>     > also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new
>     batteries before
>     > going anywhere.? This was despite most everyone having printed
>     'starting and
>     > storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master
>     switch to be
>     > used.? Like I said - fingers crossed...
>     >
>     > As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is
>     Trollstigen
>     > ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
>     > https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
>     >
>     > ----------------
>     > All the best,
>     >
>     > Al Fuller
>     >
>     > -----Original Message-----
>     > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob
>     Spidell
>     > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
>     > To: healeys at autox.team.net
>     > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>     >
>     > Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump
>     would leave the
>     > electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm
>     and open the
>     > points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still
>     have
>     > current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat
>     and, well,
>     > fry.
>     >
>     >
>     > On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>     >> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
>     >> knowledge than me can respond.
>     >>
>     >> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a
>     fuel
>     >> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as
>     unpowered
>     >> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>     >>
>     >> ----------------
>     >> All the best,
>     >>
>     >> Al Fuller
>     >>
>     >> -----Original Message-----
>     >> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
>     >> healeymanjim
>     >> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
>     >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>     >> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>     >>
>     >> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
>     >> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.? the
>     battery i
>     >> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with
>     plugs
>     >> removed.? any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>     >>
>     >
>     >
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sun Jul 30 09:34:12 2023
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 17:34:12 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1690731252014.1432609.dc2a3a5e8ad39bc28fb6f3ab7a64f57fc9ea9e42@spica.telekom.de>

Similar happened in 2002 when about 20 Austin-Healeys came over from the US 
to England. Nearly half of them had flat batteries and some of the 
damaged/dented when they arrived at Portsmouth. It was a real desaster.
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
Datum: 2023-07-30T17:06:27+0200
Von: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
An: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
 
 
 
Bob--
 
He said "When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
also left on" which would explain why the batteries were run down.  
 
Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were closed 
would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set of points?

On Sun, Jul 30, 2023 at 10:17?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:
  That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on?
  Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off.
  I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.

  'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few
  weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current
  continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall
  since most are now produced in Mexico.


  On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com
  <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:
  > Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is something
  to
  > think about...
  >
  > On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The
  car is
  > due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the
  European
  > Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
  > ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master
  switch
  > also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new batteries
  before
  > going anywhere.  This was despite most everyone having printed
  'starting and
  > storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master switch
  to be
  > used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
  >
  > As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is Trollstigen
  > ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
  ><https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/>
  >
  > ----------------
  > All the best,
  >
  > Al Fuller
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
  > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
  > To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
  > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
  >
  > Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave
  the
  > electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and
  open the
  > points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
  > current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and,
  well,
  > fry.
  >
  >
  > On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com
  <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:
  >> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
  >> knowledge than me can respond.
  >>
  >> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel
  >> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered
  >> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
  >>
  >> ----------------
  >> All the best,
  >>
  >> Al Fuller
  >>
  >> -----Original Message-----
  >> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of
  >> healeymanjim
  >> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
  >> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
  >> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
  >>
  >> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
  >> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i
  >> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs
  >> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
  >>
  >
  >

  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive:<http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
  <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>

  Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>


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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul 30 12:35:43 2023
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 14:35:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump / Ignition keys
References: <C4D30A10-84E9-46C9-A4F9-E1D4503D6B58.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C4D30A10-84E9-46C9-A4F9-E1D4503D6B58@aol.com>

My experience with shipping cars from or to Hawaii was that keys for all locked or lockable locations on the car be left with the check in office but not left inserted in the ignition. Has been 12 years since the last car was shipped but suspect it has not changed. If working properly the key can not be removed if the ignition switch in in the on position
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 30 12:57:59 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 11:57:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <978001d9c317$c317c7c0$49475740$@gmail.com>

Yes, Bob - the ignitions were left on...

I agree that a stock Healey should have no draw when not running. I too leave mine for weeks to months with the battery master 'on', and it starts right back up.

Unfortunately, they put these cars in the container with the ignition keys left 'on'. 

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2023 7:00 AM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on? 
Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off. 
I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.

'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall since most are now produced in Mexico.


On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is 
> something to think about...
>
> On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The 
> car is due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from 
> the European Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early 
> June, several had ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the 
> battery master switch also left on. The result was several of the cars 
> needed new batteries before going anywhere.  This was despite most 
> everyone having printed 'starting and storing instructions' in the car 
> calling for the battery master switch to be used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
>
> As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is 
> Trollstigen ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
> https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob 
> Spidell
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would 
> leave the electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the 
> diaphragm and open the points (or electronic circuit) to stop current 
> flow. You'd still have current flowing through the electromagnet, 
> which could overheat and, well, fry.
>
>
> On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more 
>> knowledge than me can respond.
>>
>> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel 
>> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered 
>> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>>
>> ----------------
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of 
>> healeymanjim
>> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>>
>> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low 
>> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i 
>> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs 
>> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>>
>
>



From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 30 13:06:00 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 12:06:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <60d375e1-0c83-79fd-2fd7-9072cd5be45e@comcast.net>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B56cstjYkrhA9+dWEYJAEM9u=rzX+jKvoRZfb8HaxubUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <60d375e1-0c83-79fd-2fd7-9072cd5be45e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <979001d9c318$e130bf40$a3923dc0$@gmail.com>

Good question on just what was the sequence of events that led to the ignition switches being left ?on?.  

 

One clue might be in something I neglected to mention in my prior post: they also drained the fuel tanks. And by drained, I mean every drop of fuel! At least one car leaked out of the fuel tank drain on refueling, because the drain plug had not been secured after the draining.

 

If you think it through, I bet they didn?t drive them into the container and then do the de-fueling in the confines of the container. Rather, drain the fuel or pump it out before pushing the car in and securing it. This sequence would provide more opportunity for the key to be left on. In the end, we do know how the cars arrived, but not how they got that way.  Ah, the joys of travel!!

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2023 7:52 AM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

 

re: "He said "When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several hadignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
also left on" which would explain why the batteries were run down."

Dang. Missed that (still on my first cup of coffee). But, how do they shut their engines down if they leave the ignition on? That's one screw-up I've never managed in 55 years of driving (sometimes, it's hard to shut them down even with the ignition turned off). They would have had to leave their keys in the ignition; is that required for shipping?

re: "Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set of points?"

The points should be able to handle the load, limited by coil impedance; it's when opening the points suffer erosion. The coil would likely be damaged, though, since without the engine running the primary coil circuit is almost a dead short (usually 1-3 ohms impedance).



On 7/30/2023 7:37 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:

Bob--

 

He said "When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had

ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
also left on" which would explain why the batteries were run down.   

 

Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set of points?

 

On Sun, Jul 30, 2023 at 10:17?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on? 
Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off. 
I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.

'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few 
weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current 
continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall 
since most are now produced in Mexico.


On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>  wrote:
> Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is something to
> think about...
>
> On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The car is
> due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the European
> Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had
> ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master switch
> also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new batteries before
> going anywhere.  This was despite most everyone having printed 'starting and
> storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master switch to be
> used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
>
> As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is Trollstigen
> ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
> https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would leave the
> electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and open the
> points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still have
> current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat and, well,
> fry.
>
>
> On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>  wrote:
>> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
>> knowledge than me can respond.
>>
>> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel
>> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered
>> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>>
>> ----------------
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of
>> healeymanjim
>> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
>> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>>
>> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
>> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i
>> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs
>> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>>
>
>

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 30 15:31:53 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 23:31:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <978001d9c317$c317c7c0$49475740$@gmail.com>
References: <20230728174658.57033.qmail@server278.com>
 <951001d9c19b$c0c3a840$424af8c0$@gmail.com>
 <3c1b3392-96e2-286f-3724-87440d36d831@comcast.net>
 <968501d9c2a0$986cbfc0$c9463f40$@gmail.com>
 <bf2945ac-74eb-7d85-b9b1-aae59de3c9aa@comcast.net>
 <978001d9c317$c317c7c0$49475740$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8a7ad840-fef1-07fe-3ed5-d21e234c70f2@chello.nl>

Leaving the ignition on will definitely drain the battery but may also 
kill the coil and electronic ignition or electronic SU-fuel pump, not 
sure about the points SU-fuel pump but I wouldn't be surprised.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 30-7-2023 om 20:57 schreef alfuller194 at gmail.com:
> Yes, Bob - the ignitions were left on...
>
> I agree that a stock Healey should have no draw when not running. I too leave mine for weeks to months with the battery master 'on', and it starts right back up.
>
> Unfortunately, they put these cars in the container with the ignition keys left 'on'.
>
> ----------------
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2023 7:00 AM
> To: alfuller194 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>
> That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on?
> Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off.
> I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.
>
> 'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a few weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall since most are now produced in Mexico.
>
>
> On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>> Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is
>> something to think about...
>>
>> On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!  The
>> car is due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from
>> the European Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early
>> June, several had ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the
>> battery master switch also left on. The result was several of the cars
>> needed new batteries before going anywhere.  This was despite most
>> everyone having printed 'starting and storing instructions' in the car
>> calling for the battery master switch to be used.  Like I said - fingers crossed...
>>
>> As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is
>> Trollstigen ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
>> https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/
>>
>> ----------------
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob
>> Spidell
>> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
>>
>> Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would
>> leave the electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the
>> diaphragm and open the points (or electronic circuit) to stop current
>> flow. You'd still have current flowing through the electromagnet,
>> which could overheat and, well, fry.
>>
>>
>> On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>>> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
>>> knowledge than me can respond.
>>>
>>> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a fuel
>>> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as unpowered
>>> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
>>>
>>> ----------------
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Al Fuller
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
>>> healeymanjim
>>> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
>>>
>>> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
>>> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump.  the battery i
>>> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with plugs
>>> removed.  any info on this anyplace on the internet?
>>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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www.avg.com

From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul 30 15:58:14 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2023 21:58:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <c7a8d9aee9a856e5ac3d8c358d1dc0888124750d@webmail>

Stevedores! Back in the day the Austin-Healey 100 body parts were
"upgraded" to use a steel bonnet and boot lid in place of the original
aluminum style. This modification was directed at the behest of Donald
Healey, himself, who upon bringing his cars to the US experienced
major damage to them from stevedores walking over the cars to get from
one end of the hold to the other. Cars are stuffed together with as
little as 3" between them.
I wrote an article in the J/F 2023 edition of the Austin Healey
Magazine discussing the issue and just how badly these cars were
treated by the shipping companies trusted with their safe delivery.
Many cars were damaged and required extensive body repairs at the
receiving port dealer. Some cars were so sadly treated that they had
to be scrapped.
As Al notes-"the joys of travel" can be directly related to those
individuals who are paid handsomely to deliver cars across the seas in
one piece, not necessarily in a good piece. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: alfuller194 at gmail.com
To: "Bob Spidell", "Michael Oritt"
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday July 30 2023 2:33:19PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

	Good question on just what was the sequence of events that led to the
ignition switches being left ?on?.  

	One clue might be in something I neglected to mention in my prior
post: they also drained the fuel tanks. And by drained, I mean every
drop of fuel! At least one car leaked out of the fuel tank drain on
refueling, because the drain plug had not been secured after the
draining. 

	If you think it through, I bet they didn?t drive them into the
container and then do the de-fueling in the confines of the container.
Rather, drain the fuel or pump it out before pushing the car in and
securing it. This sequence would provide more opportunity for the key
to be left on. In the end, we do know how the cars arrived, but not
how they got that way. Ah, the joys of travel!! 

	---------------- 

	All the best, 

	Al Fuller  

	FROM: Bob Spidell 
SENT: Sunday, July 30, 2023 7:52 AM
TO: Michael Oritt 
CC: alfuller194 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump   

	re: "He said _"When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several
hadignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master
switch_
_also left on"_ which would explain why the batteries were run down."

Dang. Missed that (still on my first cup of coffee). But, how do they
shut their engines down if they leave the ignition on? That's one
screw-up I've never managed in 55 years of driving (sometimes, it's
hard to shut them down even with the ignition turned off). They would
have had to leave their keys in the ignition; is that required for
shipping?

re: "Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts
were closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a
burned set of points?"

The points should be able to handle the load, limited by coil
impedance; it's when opening the points suffer erosion. The coil would
likely be damaged, though, since without the engine running the
primary coil circuit is almost a dead short (usually 1-3 ohms
impedance).

	On 7/30/2023 7:37 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:     

	Bob--   

	He said _"When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several had_
 

	_ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master
switch_
_also left on"_ which would explain why the batteries were run down.  


	Also, if any of the cars had points ignitions and the contacts were
closed would not that contribute to current drain, if not a burned set
of points?   

	On Sun, Jul 30, 2023 at 10:17?AM Bob Spidell  wrote:   

	That's kinda odd; did they leave GPSs or some other electronics on?
 Nothing on a stock Healey should be drawing current with the key off.
 I've left the cutoff 'on' for months without draining a battery.

 'Modern' cars are a different story; they'll run a battery down in a
few
 weeks, with anti-theft, remote unlock, etc. drawing current
 continuously. Also, I think battery quality has gone downhill overall
 since most are now produced in Mexico.

 On 7/29/2023 9:44 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
 > Humm - low battery causing the pump to effectively 'stall' is
something to
 > think about...
 >
 > On a related note, I have my fingers crossed for my own battery!
The car is
 > due to be shipped back from Norway any day now, returning from the
European
 > Healey Meet. When the cars arrived in Norway in early June, several
had
 > ignition switches left in the 'on' position and the battery master
switch
 > also left on. The result was several of the cars needed new
batteries before
 > going anywhere. This was despite most everyone having printed
'starting and
 > storing instructions' in the car calling for the battery master
switch to be
 > used. Like I said - fingers crossed...
 >
 > As to the Healey Meet - great roads! One of my favorites is
Trollstigen
 > ['Troll's Ladder']. For a sample, see:
 >  [1]https://www.lifeinnorway.net/trollstigen-norway/ [2]
 >
 > ----------------
 > All the best,
 >
 > Al Fuller
 >
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: Healeys  On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
 > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 7:00 PM
 > To: healeys at autox.team.net
 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump
 >
 > Conceivably--note: 'conceivably'--less than 12V at the pump would
leave the
 > electromagnet charged but unable to fully retract the diaphragm and
open the
 > points (or electronic circuit) to stop current flow. You'd still
have
 > current flowing through the electromagnet, which could overheat
and, well,
 > fry.
 >
 >
 > On 7/28/2023 2:37 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
 >> Jim - I don't recall those messages, so maybe someone with more
 >> knowledge than me can respond.
 >>
 >> That said, I don't see how a low or dead battery would damage a
fuel
 >> pump. I would think the pump would see just the circuit as
unpowered
 >> and not work, but not suffer for the experience...
 >>
 >> ----------------
 >> All the best,
 >>
 >> Al Fuller
 >>
 >> -----Original Message-----
 >> From: Healeys  On Behalf Of
 >> healeymanjim
 >> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2023 10:47 AM
 >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
 >> Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
 >>
 >> i have seen messages on the list where folks have stated that low
 >> battery can cause problems with solid state fuel pump. the battery
i
 >> replaced was so weak it would not turn the motor over even with
plugs
 >> removed. any info on this anyplace on the internet?
 >>
 >
 >

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Links:
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 31 10:55:06 2023
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2023 09:55:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump / Ignition keys
In-Reply-To: <C4D30A10-84E9-46C9-A4F9-E1D4503D6B58@aol.com>
References: <C4D30A10-84E9-46C9-A4F9-E1D4503D6B58.ref@aol.com>
 <C4D30A10-84E9-46C9-A4F9-E1D4503D6B58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <984c01d9c3cf$c245c820$46d15860$@gmail.com>

Perry - from my limited experience, it appears to vary by port and/or
logistics company. 

At LA/Long beach they had us drive into a loading bay area, took pictures,
then they drove the cars to the warehouse in the back. As such, we lost
control over the keys pretty much immediately. 

At Fredrikstad, Norway we drove them directly into the warehouse ourselves.
The instruction then was any car with a battery master switch was left with
the master switch 'off', boot lid open, and key in the boot lock.

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Perry Small via
Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2023 11:36 AM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump / Ignition keys

My experience with shipping cars from or to Hawaii was that keys for all
locked or lockable locations on the car be left with the check in office but
not left inserted in the ignition. Has been 12 years since the last car was
shipped but suspect it has not changed. If working properly the key can not
be removed if the ignition switch in in the on position Perry

Sent from my iPhone
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