[Healeys] Water pump recommendations

[Michael Oritt]

Thanks Bob--

It is somewhat discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.  As I mentioned I'd
like to replace my present pump--I believe the "uprated" version which I
installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new,
dependable one with the hope that it will give several years of good
service, and while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should have
the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.

All that said, most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and
that's probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around.  You
mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean the one for the
shutoff valve.  I don't have one of those--never had--and since it is
pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the tap on the right
side of the engine I think I'll stay without one.

As to the hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water is
getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you are
referring to ?

Best--Michael





On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares offering
> appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller appears
> to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the impeller and
> the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow better.
> The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everything's metric on
> it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole on
> the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that
> doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my
> attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain plug
> if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the car out on a
> hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp. at
> idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of a
> shroud, etc.
>
> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco but
> sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't install it; I
> returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he came
> through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me,
> but it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, but Tom
> would tell you if you gave him a call.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very good
> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the correct
> spring pressure using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
> date.
>
> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other aftermarket
> makers, including County, make junk. Using the original parts can work if
> you have someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure is
> critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out of delrin resists
> wear from vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
> company. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt at gmail.com> <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations
> The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough in the
> manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipment.
>
> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement of
> what is generally offered to us?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
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