[Healeys] door won't shut fully.

[Mike Sinclair]

In that case, a lot of us could use some shims.

Mike

On 4/21/23 5:57 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Hard to say without seeing it, but you may require some shims behind 
> the hinges (to compensate for a sagging chassis).
>
>
> On 4/21/2023 1:09 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> The car is a 3000, MkII BT7 ie it does not have wind up windows.
>>
>> Now, the door will shut but it sticks out about 7+mm at the top. One 
>> closes the door which engages with the latch on the striker. The door 
>> is firmly closed and will not open until one turns the interior or 
>> exterior handle. BUT, once the door is shut and engaged, it moves 
>> out. Doesn’t look good.
>>
>> I tried moving the striker plate inwards, bit by bit. No change.
>>
>> I thought/hoped that the catch mechanism had worn out and replaced 
>> it. To be fair, the mechanism was pretty well worn out – it’s old!! – 
>> but this made no difference.
>>
>> I tried messing with the striker plate again. No change. It looked 
>> pretty worn and shabby so I replaced that too…..No change.
>>
>> The process seems simple enough in theory but, in practise, I’m 
>> making no progress. Is it one of those situations, which I seem to 
>> encounter all too often, where the cure is so counter-intuitive that 
>> it never occurs to the inexperienced amateur?? I’m moving the plate 
>> inwards….seems obvious, right? Should it be going outwards? Or what??
>>
>> This has all been pretty frustrating. Getting the catch mechanism out 
>> was a nightmare and the so-called escutcheon on the door handle was 
>> solid so had to be sacrificed with a cold chisel….etcetc.
>>
>> Any ideas would be very welcome.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>
>
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