[Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
josef-eckert at t-online.de
josef-eckert at t-online.de
Fri Sep 30 00:49:32 MDT 2022
Hello Mike,
I still suspect the master switch, or the white/black wire to it.
To check this, just take the white/black wire off the distributer and coil.
And instead make a temporary connection (wire) from coil to distributer.
And now make a test drive.
Cheers,
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY
From: Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue
considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
I should like to point out however that it is the immediate
vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me
confused.
This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a
result of filling the tank.
Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation
problem because the amount of engine power being used has no
effect.
Totally baffled.
Thanks again to all ... I'll report back.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
Hi John -
Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell
through bad interpretation! As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are
Correct Sir!"
Cheers,
Alan
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com
<mailto:ah100tech at gmail.com> > wrote:
Alan
Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one
that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the
insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the
bottom of the case.
On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <
healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com> > wrote:
Michael -
Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to
manifest themself ...
* whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will
exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
* whether the car is under load or not - this typically will
exclude anything related to fuel
* whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will
exclude anything related to fuel
* somewhat intermittent but systematically under all
conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues
Given this I'd check (as a priority):
* Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
* primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil
(cycle the connections)
* motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
* loose wires in the dizzy
* loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
* replace rotor
* replace dizzy cap
I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because
this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe
sensitive to temp.
Best,
Alan
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <
bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:
re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the
distributor wire ..."
It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF'
position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.
On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
Hi Michael -
Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire
from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the
coil to the distributor.
You might also want to try disconnecting the black and
white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if
it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this. If that
wire is disconnected the car should run no problem. I
don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from
underneath the master switch itself.
Best,
Alan
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