From ah3000me at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 05:23:04 2022
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 07:23:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear brake pad thickness
Message-ID: <CANQM1PLLnQvosvRnzUfd=1rb4zuSxOt-kX5bya8Nq=VfrUZBgA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I'm in the process of installing a set of Lempert gears in my BJ8.   While
I have the drums off, I was thinking of replacing the rear brake shoes.
 Does anyone know what the thickness of the lining is when the shoes are
new?

thanks,
Tom
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 06:17:29 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 08:17:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear brake pad thickness
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PLLnQvosvRnzUfd=1rb4zuSxOt-kX5bya8Nq=VfrUZBgA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PLLnQvosvRnzUfd=1rb4zuSxOt-kX5bya8Nq=VfrUZBgA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLmH2gLkwanXDrsrXx_P-_OWYmhfJNxUQzMJ83xPdy1Wg@mail.gmail.com>

When we used to get shoes relined we founf that the maximum thickness of
lining material that could be accomodated inside standard drums was 0.175
inches.

M

On Thu., Sep. 1, 2022, 7:28 a.m. Tom, <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm in the process of installing a set of Lempert gears in my BJ8.   While
> I have the drums off, I was thinking of replacing the rear brake shoes.
>  Does anyone know what the thickness of the lining is when the shoes are
> new?
>
> thanks,
> Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rantal243 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  1 12:34:35 2022
From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 18:34:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>

The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any suggestions.
rich antal
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 13:31:03 2022
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 15:31:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7jO2CvDu7Wd9SN2WYHgcp8H8w8kttitHnxE8uuk9djug@mail.gmail.com>

Richard--

While I am not specifically familiar with pedal linkage in six-cylinder
cars it is probably similar in concept to that of 100's.  If you can get a
helper to work the pedal while you view the linkage from the engine
compartment you'll probably see that one or more of the pivots or
connections in the linkage is either loose or worn causing the slop.  Once
you find the offender either repair or replace as necessary.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 3:23 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine
> responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the
> engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any
> suggestions.
>
> rich antal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Sep  1 15:05:21 2022
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 17:05:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03ce01d8be46$8c84ef20$a58ecd60$@rr.com>

The throttle lever pinch bolt has probably slipped, Rich.   There is an adjustment procedure in the workshop manual for setting clearance.  I?ll send that to you in a separate email.

I recently changed the exhaust manifolds on my BJ8 and had to disconnect the lever for access.  When I got it back together, it worked fine until I was about 250 miles from home, then I suddenly felt the same symptoms you are having.  I loosened the pinch bolt and rotated the throttle lever a bit, and problem solved (actually, the pedal was a little TOO sensitive).  I did the final adjustment procedure when I got home.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Antal via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2022 2:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment

 

The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

rich antal

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From rosowski at tampabay.rr.com  Thu Sep  1 15:14:01 2022
From: rosowski at tampabay.rr.com (rosowski at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2022 21:14:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
Message-ID: <75317dd12a63c1e3b1db50a1afa52e7555c6feb7@webmail>

There is some adjustment on the ball joint fittings in the linkage,
but I do not believe that it is anywhere near enough to account for
1.5" of free play. It seems more likely that one or more of the
bushings on the shaft that runs laterally across the firewall behind
the engine, or the next one that runs from the firewall out to the
carbs is worn or totally failed. 
Try watching the linkage from the engine compartment as an assistant
moves the throttle pedal through its full range of motion. If you see
up and down movement of a part that should only be rotating, then you
may be onto what is causing this excessive play.

	-----------------------------------------From: "Richard Antal via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 1 2022 4:17:28PM
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment

  The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the
engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it
so that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks
for any suggestions. 
 rich antal

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Sep  1 16:23:48 2022
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 18:23:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <75317dd12a63c1e3b1db50a1afa52e7555c6feb7@webmail>
References: <75317dd12a63c1e3b1db50a1afa52e7555c6feb7@webmail>
Message-ID: <000501d8be51$82b8d7d0$882a8770$@verizon.net>

While I haven?t had to do this in years I remember that it is a real bear. I believe that the Nocks have clear and workable instructions on how to adjust the linkeage  properly using some patience and a protractor to get the angles right.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Ron Osowski via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2022 5:14 PM
To: 'Richard Antal' <rantal243 at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment

 

There is some adjustment on the ball joint fittings in the linkage, but I do not believe that it is anywhere near enough to account for 1.5" of free play. It seems more likely that one or more of the bushings on the shaft that runs laterally across the firewall behind the engine, or the next one that runs from the firewall out to the carbs is worn or totally failed. 

 

Try watching the linkage from the engine compartment as an assistant moves the throttle pedal through its full range of motion. If you see up and down movement of a part that should only be rotating, then you may be onto what is causing this excessive play.

-----------------------------------------

From: "Richard Antal via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 1 2022 4:17:28PM
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment

The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

rich antal

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From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 16:42:23 2022
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2022 18:42:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7jO2CvDu7Wd9SN2WYHgcp8H8w8kttitHnxE8uuk9djug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jO2CvDu7Wd9SN2WYHgcp8H8w8kttitHnxE8uuk9djug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADqHe-3v0EroaC1G4jXOX1Y3FiVYnaBArbVqESpBwrzyXSVP9Q@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, its a linkage issue. After its properly adjusted you won't believe the
additional power.

jon

On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 5:20 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Richard--
>
> While I am not specifically familiar with pedal linkage in six-cylinder
> cars it is probably similar in concept to that of 100's.  If you can get a
> helper to work the pedal while you view the linkage from the engine
> compartment you'll probably see that one or more of the pivots or
> connections in the linkage is either loose or worn causing the slop.  Once
> you find the offender either repair or replace as necessary.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 3:23 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the
>> engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so
>> that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any
>> suggestions.
>>
>> rich antal
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep  1 20:07:31 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 10:07:31 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJJ0eNJZys5UnU8_urZRKvFeyh=pisZMm3xsm05Fo_OCw@mail.gmail.com>

The workshop manual has guidance how the throttle levers are to be set up.
General rule of thumb is you want to have each throttle lever to start the
throw at one angle and end the throw at the same and opposite angle.  this
will give you maximum throw and power.  also the plastic and rubber
bushings need to be sorted, and cross rod tightened up as much as possible

On Fri, 2 Sep 2022 at 3:43 AM, Richard Antal via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine
> responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the
> engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any
> suggestions.
>
> rich antal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Sep  1 22:01:46 2022
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 00:01:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJJ0eNJZys5UnU8_urZRKvFeyh=pisZMm3xsm05Fo_OCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1398694139.3068394.1662057275233@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJJ0eNJZys5UnU8_urZRKvFeyh=pisZMm3xsm05Fo_OCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004601d8be80$b9206930$2b613b90$@rr.com>

I take it that Rich?s throttle symptoms have occurred suddenly.

Last spring I replaced the exhaust manifolds on my BJ8 and had to remove the throttle lever with the pinch bolt for access.   After reassembling everything, I  did a 250-mile run to attend the first  event since Covid put an end to car activities and everything was normal.   On the way from the motel to the car show the next morning, I experienced the same symptoms as Rich Antal describes:  I had to press the pedal almost to the floor to get the car to accelerate.  I  suspected the pinch bolt had loosened and allowed the throttle lever to slip on the pedal shaft.   After the show, I turned the lever to the proper location for opening the carb butterflies and the problem was solved (actually, it became TOO responsive to the accelerator pedal).  When I got home, I did the adjustment according to the manual.  

I think Rich?s lever is also slipping on the shaft. 

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2022 10:08 PM
To: Richard Antal
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] gas pedal adjustment

 

The workshop manual has guidance how the throttle levers are to be set up.  General rule of thumb is you want to have each throttle lever to start the throw at one angle and end the throw at the same and opposite angle.  this will give you maximum throw and power.  also the plastic and rubber bushings need to be sorted, and cross rod tightened up as much as possible 

 

On Fri, 2 Sep 2022 at 3:43 AM, Richard Antal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

The gas pedal on my BJ8 has to travel about 1 1/2 inches before the engine responds with increased rpms. Is there some way of adjusting it so that the engine responds instantly to depressing the pedal? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

rich antal

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From rantal243 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  2 08:17:55 2022
From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 14:17:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] radiator leak
References: <1651790019.3449316.1662128275194.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1651790019.3449316.1662128275194@mail.yahoo.com>

Greetings Healeyphiles,?????? My thanks to all for their directions on how to adjust the gas pedal.And now another question: I noticed? radiator fluid oozing from the seam where the upper tank is secured to the core. Does this need to be re-welded or can a smear of JB Weld suffice? If re-soldering is necessary, does anyone know of a repair facility in New England? The BJ8 and I live in Portsmouth NH. Thanks for any suggestions.
rich antal
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 08:51:30 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 07:51:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] radiator leak
In-Reply-To: <1651790019.3449316.1662128275194@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1651790019.3449316.1662128275194.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1651790019.3449316.1662128275194@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0ec32ca5-ce24-d99e-763a-d3705c4ff93c@comcast.net>

Have the tank resoldered, and while you're at it, get an upgraded core 
('Excel' brand of equivalent). In my experience, JB Weld and other 
adhesives work OK, at least temporarily when it's applied on the 
'inside' of a break or crack, when slapped on the 'outside,' as in this 
case, it's a quick fix at best. Plus, surfaces generally need to be 
really clean for any adhesive to work, in this case you'd be applying to 
old, dirty solder which has already failed.

A quick internet search on 'radiator repair near Portsmough NH' got a 
few hits. I'd probably start here:
https://www.dowsautomotiveservice.com/Portsmouth-auto-ac-repair.html

On 9/2/2022 7:17 AM, Richard Antal via Healeys wrote:
> Greetings Healeyphiles,
> ?????? My thanks to all for their directions on how to adjust the gas 
> pedal.
> And now another question: I noticed? radiator fluid oozing from the 
> seam where the upper tank is secured to the core. Does this need to be 
> re-welded or can a smear of JB Weld suffice? If re-soldering is 
> necessary, does anyone know of a repair facility in New England? The 
> BJ8 and I live in Portsmouth NH. Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> rich antal
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep  2 10:47:24 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2022 09:47:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Distributor guy
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB4445FF739056FF2873797AF9A5789@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20220829.130050.20213.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
 <1642592183.1120055.1661809224001@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B6SmfAg12MekRQTgXvgQK9Ecmj75aHwshM_qb_FkMsnVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <542ca0bb-3ca8-4ac9-bcc0-d06082376360@me.com>
 <35a9741b-8e2c-07ad-845c-65b1ab329cf6@comcast.net>
 <4190764c-0fdc-47bb-83a9-a5c4b2a698d2@me.com>
 <PH0PR20MB4445FF739056FF2873797AF9A5789@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <5e5bd7c6-813d-21f8-3f9a-2c7aadbc6f58@comcast.net>

Thanks to input from the List, I now think the (possible) reason for 
Pertronix not recommending their unit for use with stranded copper wires 
is RFI from the wires. The Ignitor uses hall effect sensing from the cam 
lobes or a magnet collar to time the pulse to the coil, and RFI could 
possibly interfere with that weak signal. I've always used Champion 
resistor plugs, which may reduce RFI so as to not interfere with the 
Ignitor. IIRC, the plugs I use have a resistance load of about 15Kohms, 
equivalent to a foot or two of suppressor wires. IIRC, I'm not sure, but 
I think the plug caps I use have built-in resistance as well. I have no 
idea why Pertronix doesn't mention this, but from perusing their website 
it appears they don't have much interest in selling to or supporting old 
British car owners anymore (we are a dwindling demographic).


On 8/30/2022 7:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> I had been using solid core wires since 2002, but when I changed to 
> negative ground in 2019 the new pertronix had a warning against solid 
> core (electronics sensitive to RF spikes or something) so I bought a 
> set of carbon core wires and adapted them to my original (acorn nut) 
> distributor cap by holding the brass washers in place with small brass 
> screws inserted into the carbon core. No problems yet.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven 
> Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 30, 2022 10:28 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Distributor guy
> Bob,
> Thanks for the link, I'll check this out and chase it down. I know 
> also you said you were using the solid core wires, but on this website 
> you sent, it definitely advises against that. Like you, I wonder why. 
> other than messing with a radio, I would see no disadvantage. And 
> sense I have no radio, I don't mind messing with folks next to me and 
> their radios!
> Stay tuned! (No pun intended)
> Steven
>
>> On Aug 30, 2022, at 12:40 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Found some here:
>>
>> https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/austin_healey.htm 
>> <https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/austin_healey.htm>
>>
>> Looks like there's two versions--'early' and 'late'--for 4-cyl Healeys.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/30/2022 8:42 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
>>> Been watching this entertaining discussion from the sidelines and 
>>> I'm one of those: "it's your car, do what you want" guys, but I have 
>>> a question about the Pertronix shift. According to the directions, a 
>>> change in plug wires is required. From solid core copper to carbon 
>>> fiber. So how can those of you going back and forth from points to 
>>> Pertronix doing it? Or, are you just sticking with the solid core 
>>> wires?
>>> I tried going to the Pertronix, but the base plate for the "ignitor" 
>>> wouldn't fit where it was claimed, in the depression for the 
>>> condensor, it fit way off not quite 180 degrees but close, and 
>>> though I did get a backfire, I never got the car to run and gave up.
>>> I pulled the distributor, tore it apart, cleaned everything up, put 
>>> everything back together, refit it with new points and reinstalled 
>>> it in the car using the cell phone photos I took to get it back as 
>>> close as possible and bam!, she fired right up! Got my timing light 
>>> out, made the slightest adjustment and I'm back in the game.
>>> I have since been able to buy another distributor from a BN1, which 
>>> was a bit of a mess inside, but was able to tear it apart, clean it, 
>>> put it back together and it now works just fine and now if I have 
>>> trouble on the side of the road, I have a spare distributor to 
>>> switch out.
>>> But I may go the Pertronix path in the future, and the solid core 
>>> wire question is still in my mind. As well as the placement of the 
>>> ignitor. Or am I just using the wrong Pertronix kit? I've got the 
>>> LU-149 kit. Thanks!
>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>> BN1
>>>
>>>> On Aug 29, 2022, at 11:28 PM, Michael Oritt 
>>>> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've had the pleasure of replacing a set of contact 
>>>> points?alongside the road in the dark.? If you don't get the stack 
>>>> of insulating washers and parts correct you are going nowhere and 
>>>> it's awfully easy to drop one?of the bits down and under the 
>>>> car--with the same result.
>>>>
>>>> I put a Mallory Unilite distributor/ignition system in my Healey 
>>>> about twenty years ago with absolutely?no issue other than a 
>>>> cracked external ballast resistor and about three years ago I 
>>>> replaced?the module simply because I did not want to push my luck 
>>>> any further.? On long trips I carry a spare distributor with drive 
>>>> dog attached, allowing for quick and easy replacement?and no need 
>>>> to worry about timing so long as I pay careful attention to the 
>>>> positions of the rotor and distributor body when switching things?out.
>>>>
>>>> On my race cars I use Pertronix modules simply because the failure 
>>>> mode is almost always total which makes diagnosis much easier 
>>>> whereas?with points there is one more component?(the condenser) 
>>>> plus very often when points ignitions go bad the problem is often 
>>>> partial and/or intermittent, resulting in more time lost trying to 
>>>> diagnose the problem with more sessions lost due to having more 
>>>> possibilities to eliminate.
>>>>
>>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 8:47 PM warthodson--- via Healeys 
>>>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>     Since Pertronix don't have points I guess the answer is: "the
>>>>     car would not have been disabled due to the points failing".
>>>>     Gary
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>>     From: dwflagg--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>>>     To: ahbn6 at verizon.net <mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net>
>>>>     Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>     Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2022 12:00 pm
>>>>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor guy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     *Also, years ago whilst traveling the New York State Thruway I
>>>>     came upon a disabled Austin Healey whilst driving my own to a
>>>>     fraternity?brother's wedding. This was before cell phones.
>>>>     Disabled vehicles were at the mercy of tow trucks and
>>>>     **exorbitant fees. It was **determined**?there was no spark.
>>>>     With no tools but just a nail clipper with a nail file, we
>>>>     filed the **points,**?and were both on our **way! Try**?that
>>>>     with a Pertronix unit!*
>>>>
>>>>     *Doug*
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>       *To add more fuel to the fire, while driving on the freeway
>>>>       in Las Vegas years ago I had the rotor on my BN6 split in
>>>>       two. A highway patrolman stopped and repaired it with super
>>>>       glue and a rubber band. I limped home 15 miles ? put on
>>>>       another rotor and kept a spare for safety and the repaired
>>>>       one in the parcel shelve for memories. Try that with a
>>>>       Pertronix unit*
>>>>
>>>>     **
>>>>     *John Sims*
>>>>     *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>>>     *Matawan, NJ*
>>>>     **
>>>>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Jim Ryan
>>>>     *Sent:* Monday, August 29, 2022 10:12 AM
>>>>     *To:* patrick williams <2x2doc at gmail.com <mailto:2x2doc at gmail.com>>
>>>>     *Cc:* List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>>>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Distributor guy
>>>>
>>>>     Just wondering, the debate between this unit and the original
>>>>     points has always been that you can replace the points in the
>>>>     event of a failure on the side of the road. How difficult is it
>>>>     to replace this unit in the same manner if you carried a spare,
>>>>     and what would the cost be for that spare? I'm referring to
>>>>     a1958 Bugeye here.
>>>>
>>>>     On Mon, Aug 29, 2022, 8:21 AM patrick williams
>>>>     <2x2doc at gmail.com <mailto:2x2doc at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>         It's been close to 20 years ago, but Jeff rebuilt my
>>>>         distributor, including the vacuum advance diaphram, and put
>>>>         in a pertronix unit.? I'm very happy with the results.
>>>>         Pat Williams
>>>>         1960 BT7
>>>>         _______________________________________________
>>>>         Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net>
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>>>
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Sep  2 20:43:52 2022
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2022 19:43:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?distance_collar?=
Message-ID: <20220903024352.12337.qmail@server278.com>

does anyone know the thickness of the distance collar, valve operating shaft, part number 64, page 61 of moss catalog?

From ggilliam at usol.com  Sat Sep  3 08:18:40 2022
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2022 10:18:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on BAT
Message-ID: <7f58099456141ae3a01e8e2590d17485@usol.com>

A rather rough but relatively cheap BJ7 last day on Bring-A-Trailer

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-42/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2022-09-03

Happy Bidding,
Gordy,  Longbridge BN4

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Sep  3 10:52:06 2022
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2022 12:52:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear brake pad thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLmH2gLkwanXDrsrXx_P-_OWYmhfJNxUQzMJ83xPdy1Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PLLnQvosvRnzUfd=1rb4zuSxOt-kX5bya8Nq=VfrUZBgA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLmH2gLkwanXDrsrXx_P-_OWYmhfJNxUQzMJ83xPdy1Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PKP-kSuOsBv7si0qcuzj0uettiReBCTF2nx+3sRLBFy3w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Mike. I wasn't sure if my shoes showed enough wear to merit
replacing, or if there is plenty of material left.    Looks like I have
plenty left.

- Tom

On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 8:17 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> When we used to get shoes relined we founf that the maximum thickness of
> lining material that could be accomodated inside standard drums was 0.175
> inches.
>
> M
>
> On Thu., Sep. 1, 2022, 7:28 a.m. Tom, <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I'm in the process of installing a set of Lempert gears in my BJ8.
>>  While I have the drums off, I was thinking of replacing the rear brake
>> shoes.   Does anyone know what the thickness of the lining is when the
>> shoes are new?
>>
>> thanks,
>> Tom
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 09:38:54 2022
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 11:38:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings
Message-ID: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>

I have the larger overdrive piston from BCS -note to John many thanks for
getting it here Friday - I have 4 thin rings and 2 larger rings.  Do the
larger rings go on first and then the thinner over them.  I assume I should
space them as piston rings are spaced.

Second, I have a new spring and ball for the pump.  The springs are the
same length but the new spring has fewer coils.  Which is the better option
to use?

TIA
Joe
BN1 #923
100M
BJ8
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 10:16:59 2022
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 09:16:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>

The wide rings are expander rings and go first. Then the narrow rings go on. Do you have the pump out. If so take a close looks at the ball seat. They usually wear on one side, and will need to have a new seat cut so the check ball seats good on the pump body. 
This is a common problem causing low Previn the overdrive 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2022, at 8:58 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have the larger overdrive piston from BCS -note to John many thanks for getting it here Friday - I have 4 thin rings and 2 larger rings.  Do the larger rings go on first and then the thinner over them.  I assume I should space them as piston rings are spaced.
> 
> Second, I have a new spring and ball for the pump.  The springs are the same length but the new spring has fewer coils.  Which is the better option to use?
> 
> TIA
> Joe
> BN1 #923
> 100M
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  4 10:47:47 2022
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 16:47:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>
 <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <930234300.4126520.1662310067194@mail.yahoo.com>

 David
? I do not have the overdrive out of the car and am working from jack stands. ?For now I'm adding the larger piston and a new pump ball and spring. ?I will seat the pump ball as you have suggested. ?If this doesn't work I'll pull the drive over the winter for a complete rebuild. ?You would think that after working properly for only 70 years they would have had better build quality when they were originally produced.
Joe
Any thoughts on the springs?
    On Sunday, September 4, 2022, 12:20:19 PM EDT, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 The wide rings are expander rings and go first. Then the narrow rings go on. Do you have the pump out. If so take a close looks at the ball seat. They usually wear on one side, and will need to have a new seat cut so the check ball seats good on the pump body. 
This is a common problem causing low Previn the overdrive 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2022, at 8:58 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have the larger overdrive piston from BCS -note to John many thanks for getting it here Friday - I have 4 thin rings and 2 larger rings.? Do the larger rings go on first and then the thinner over them.? I assume I should space them as piston rings are spaced.
> 
> Second, I have a new spring and ball for the pump.? The springs are the same length but the new spring has fewer coils.? Which is the better option to use?
> 
> TIA
> Joe
> BN1 #923
> 100M
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  4 11:11:43 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 13:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>
 <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <53955a1c-4a17-48d6-3348-2394404a06b0@earthlink.net>

David,

How do you cut a new seat?? Ball end mill?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/4/22 12:16 PM, David Nock wrote:
> The wide rings are expander rings and go first. Then the narrow rings go on. Do you have the pump out. If so take a close looks at the ball seat. They usually wear on one side, and will need to have a new seat cut so the check ball seats good on the pump body.
> This is a common problem causing low Previn the overdrive
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 4, 2022, at 8:58 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I have the larger overdrive piston from BCS -note to John many thanks for getting it here Friday - I have 4 thin rings and 2 larger rings.  Do the larger rings go on first and then the thinner over them.  I assume I should space them as piston rings are spaced.
>>
>> Second, I have a new spring and ball for the pump.  The springs are the same length but the new spring has fewer coils.  Which is the better option to use?
>>
>> TIA
>> Joe
>> BN1 #923
>> 100M
>> BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  4 15:31:43 2022
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 14:31:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings
In-Reply-To: <53955a1c-4a17-48d6-3348-2394404a06b0@earthlink.net>
References: <CADigPhSp4Jf02fO2xghMHjqyjQvuCsmSd_fBSHocdwZLoALgDw@mail.gmail.com>
 <946FF5E3-6D41-4E51-A80B-111ED1A57C0A@gmail.com>
 <53955a1c-4a17-48d6-3348-2394404a06b0@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002301d8c0a5$bb159400$3140bc00$@sbcglobal.net>

David,

What size ball end mill is needed and how is it aligned in the bore?

John Spaur

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2022 10:12 AM
To: David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com>; Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Piston Rings

David,

How do you cut a new seat?  Ball end mill?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/4/22 12:16 PM, David Nock wrote:
> The wide rings are expander rings and go first. Then the narrow rings go on. Do you have the pump out. If so take a close looks at the ball seat. They usually wear on one side, and will need to have a new seat cut so the check ball seats good on the pump body.
> This is a common problem causing low Previn the overdrive
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 4, 2022, at 8:58 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I have the larger overdrive piston from BCS -note to John many thanks for getting it here Friday - I have 4 thin rings and 2 larger rings.  Do the larger rings go on first and then the thinner over them.  I assume I should space them as piston rings are spaced.
>>
>> Second, I have a new spring and ball for the pump.  The springs are the same length but the new spring has fewer coils.  Which is the better option to use?
>>
>> TIA
>> Joe
>> BN1 #923
>> 100M
>> BJ8
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Sun Sep  4 16:32:13 2022
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 18:32:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
Message-ID: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I
drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on
which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide
under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've
seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have
a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need
something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like
that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  4 17:21:31 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 19:21:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 gasket issue
Message-ID: <776eece0-4db9-bc91-70c4-97e12b8ff1a7@earthlink.net>

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  4 18:55:02 2022
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2022 00:55:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Most auto parts stores sell oils pans for under the car. You will need two.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2022 3:32 PM
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  4 19:01:21 2022
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2022 01:01:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB607835150CFC618F62B3C418D17F9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Jim  Those fancy brick driveway tend to look too perfect and too manicured without oil drops or some grass growing in between. A bit of oil look like someone is using the driveway like someone is living there.

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2022 5:32:13 PM
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.
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From britishauto at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 19:20:28 2022
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 21:20:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bCZ4WDYry3G-AP9C1U_2kR320DLKiOhKNMAC4KrT487PQ@mail.gmail.com>

Kilmartin used to sell nice embossed Austin Healey metal drip pans. Maybe
the new management still has them? I got a pair when I bought my new frame
and another front frame section.
Alternatively, Amazon sells wide plastic trays for pets, probably will also
work but more prone to cracking.

On Sun, Sep 4, 2022, 9:11 PM Richard Kahn via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Most auto parts stores sell oils pans for under the car. You will need two.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Ryan <
> ryan at jimryan.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 4, 2022 3:32 PM
> *To:* List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Oil drip protection
>
> We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I
> drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on
> which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide
> under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've
> seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have
> a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need
> something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like
> that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  4 20:31:48 2022
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 19:31:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003a01d8c0cf$a6b32070$f4196150$@sbcglobal.net>

If you always park the car in the same spot, you could have left out the brick where the car drips oil and filled that with black gravel to let the oil drip into.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Ryan
Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2022 3:32 PM
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

 

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Sep  4 20:34:56 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2022 22:34:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 gasket issue
In-Reply-To: <776eece0-4db9-bc91-70c4-97e12b8ff1a7@earthlink.net>
References: <776eece0-4db9-bc91-70c4-97e12b8ff1a7@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKdBKLq=yfYv+bCUnjWxytr=XRnyXprxTcS7pbLFzHJDg@mail.gmail.com>

My guess would be that the mating faces of the carbs are not flat or the
spacer is compressed at the stud holes.
I encountered the same issue with my MGBGT.
Carefully filing the carb faces flat and sanding the faces of the spacers
on a surface plate seemed to eliminate the issue.
Also use no sealant on the gasket surfaces ... it can make them slip under
high vacuum.

M

On Sun., Sep. 4, 2022, 7:26 p.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> The tri-carb intake parts are:
>
>    - intake manifold
>    - gasket
>    - heat shield
>    - gasket
>    - 1/4" insulator
>    - gasket
>    - HS4 carb
>
> The gaskets are all the same, shaped like the carb base with two holes for
> the carb mounting studs.  I have a reoccurring issue of the gaskets tearing
> and blocking the air stream.  A couple weeks ago we found the two gaskets
> on either side of the heat shield were bad on the front carb.
>
> Today it looks like the gasket between the intake manifold and the heat
> shield is bad on the center carb.  The first time was a couple of years ago.
>
> The only non-standard parts I have fitted are the 1/4" insulating spacer
> and the nuts that hold everything together.  I got sticker shock for the
> spacers - $40+/each.  So I made my own using  a 1/4" thick linen phenolic
> laminate sheet, a router and a MGB HS4 spacer for the pattern. Instead of
> nuts and lock washers, used AN half height lock nuts.  Had also fitted a
> PCV valve to the first intake manifold, but have recently removed it.
>
> Any thoughts as to why the gaskets are being destroyed?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From banjojohn at cox.net  Sun Sep  4 21:04:05 2022
From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn)
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2022 22:04:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1662347051.24406.healeys@autox.team.net>

I use lids from plastic bins and put kitty litter in itSent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
-------- Original message --------From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> Date: 9/4/22  6:07 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.? just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.? Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 10:38:08 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2022 12:38:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Drips
Message-ID: <02aa01d8c145$e19c9830$a4d5c890$@gmail.com>

Hi Ryan:

 

We had our driveway paved with real bricks and then I brought my Healey and
discovered the stains oil drips do to bricks.  So, I went to Sherwin
Williams, bought their clear sealer, and applied 2 coats, and a 3rd one
where the Healey stops before going into the garage. Also, bought 2 metal
pans from Walmart? Or one of the auto parts stores for the garage and coved
with kitty litters.  After the engine was rebuilt and still had oil leaks, I
installed diaper pan underneath the bell housing to catch them and used a
vacuum oil catcher to suck up the oil that collects in the pan.  So far, I
no longer have oil drips on the driveway.

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8 

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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Sep  5 10:45:02 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2022 16:45:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <518114417.4470159.1662396302149@mail.yahoo.com>

I use large pieces of cardboard from furniture store discards and cut it to suit me for both my very very drippy AH and my slightly drippy 36 Chevy. ?Cheap (free), foldable, light weight, cut to any shape/size.Keith


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 4, 2022 6:32 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.? just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.? Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use._______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon Sep  5 14:14:31 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2022 16:14:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Drips
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYyWignODbh04Pxt0L=uTptXszaAUk6h9+ewQQczYyX6GQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <02aa01d8c145$e19c9830$a4d5c890$@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyWignODbh04Pxt0L=uTptXszaAUk6h9+ewQQczYyX6GQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003101d8c164$1c5013d0$54f03b70$@gmail.com>

The sealer works great so you can power was or just scrub off oil drips and anything else. I am in Florida where the heat from the sun burns away a layer, so I redo the sealing every other year or so.  Most of the time the oil leak comes from the rear seal and the resulting oil drops down out of the slot in the bottom of the bell housing then travels back along the frame, so it keeps the frame from rusting.  

 

You must fabricate your own Diaper Pan or find a friend who can do it for you.  I have the information in Florida how to.  But you will have to wait until I return.  Or some one on this list will remember.  I cannot find it on Sims 6 site.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> 
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2022 2:57 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com
Subject: Re: Oil Drips

 

Thanks for the info.   How did the sealer work out?  If you got a drip did it just wash off?  Also, where did you get the "diaper pan" ?  I think the only leak I have in more towards the front, but I'm gonna put a white tarp under it for a night to determine exactly where it is.   

 

On Mon, Sep 5, 2022 at 12:38 PM <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> > wrote:

Hi Ryan:

 

We had our driveway paved with real bricks and then I brought my Healey and discovered the stains oil drips do to bricks.  So, I went to Sherwin Williams, bought their clear sealer, and applied 2 coats, and a 3rd one where the Healey stops before going into the garage. Also, bought 2 metal pans from Walmart? Or one of the auto parts stores for the garage and coved with kitty litters.  After the engine was rebuilt and still had oil leaks, I installed diaper pan underneath the bell housing to catch them and used a vacuum oil catcher to suck up the oil that collects in the pan.  So far, I no longer have oil drips on the driveway.

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8 




 

-- 

Jim Ryan

????

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 07:08:29 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2022 09:08:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <518114417.4470159.1662396302149@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <518114417.4470159.1662396302149@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <017001d8c1f1$c2c88570$48599050$@gmail.com>

When I began to work on my BJ8 I went to Walgreen and asked for large cardboard boxes, cut,flattened and laid them on the floor under and all around the car.  Then sprayed the under and all around the car engine etc. with cheap Dollar Store grease dissolving cleaner and power washed it.  The grease oil and dirt are absorbed by the cardboard and the water flows out the garage door and down the driveway.  The next day the cardboard is dry enough to roll it up and stuff into the garbage container.  The floor of the garage is nice and clean for working, but the underside of the Healey is oil and grease free for working and painting.  

 

Bob Begani

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of llennep--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2022 12:45 PM
To: ryan at jimryan.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

 

I use large pieces of cardboard from furniture store discards and cut it to suit me for both my very very drippy AH and my slightly drippy 36 Chevy.  Cheap (free), foldable, light weight, cut to any shape/size. 

Keith



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com <mailto:ryan at jimryan.com> >
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sun, Sep 4, 2022 6:32 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 15:52:10 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2022 17:52:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Diaper Pan
Message-ID: <006901d8c23a$eb180020$c1480060$@gmail.com>

Jim:

 

Originally, I used the manifold drainpipe directly to the diaper pan.
However, the flow of oil was causing my #6 spark plug to foul with so much
oil.  First, I used a non-fouling adaptor and then installed the oil
catcher.  Then I pulled the trans, installed the new gasket to the engine
with lots of Right Stuff sealant all around and reinstalled the trans and
carefully tightened the bolts. The result was the oil drip was reduced to a
light amount.  Before leaving for Michigan, I just left everything alone for
when I come back to Florida in October and will decide if I want to remove
the oil catcher.  Nice bright red makes the engine look great.

 

Where is this BN6 Website?

 

Bob Begani

 

unless you have a tri-carb you can extend the manifold drain pipe into the
diaper pan and suck the oil back into the manifold one drop at a time.  i
have had this setup on my car for over ten years.  i put the directions on
the BN6 website.

 

 

 

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep  6 22:49:21 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2022 12:49:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pretty Jamaican
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJDD9F0RvQs_BEn7Us_BHZeXNMkH9Or3R9YptKivEo4bQ@mail.gmail.com>

A handsome rebuild at a pretty reasonable price if you ask me.

https://silodrome.com/jamaican-austin-healey-3000-car/
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  7 00:02:21 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2022 23:02:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pretty Jamaican
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJDD9F0RvQs_BEn7Us_BHZeXNMkH9Or3R9YptKivEo4bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJDD9F0RvQs_BEn7Us_BHZeXNMkH9Or3R9YptKivEo4bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_bqrjYHZKh7VU=j9AZWVmTanD9QxKB_eRmmPgrs3+jEQ@mail.gmail.com>

love the seats
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 10:10 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A handsome rebuild at a pretty reasonable price if you ask me.
>
> https://silodrome.com/jamaican-austin-healey-3000-car/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Sep  7 05:58:20 2022
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2022 21:58:20 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <00e401d8c2b1$200f1950$602d4bf0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

A few years back I had two drip-trays made of flat galvanised steel.

 

Each is 6 ? ft long and 2ft wide with a lip all round of ? inch.

 

Both work well and while the BN3 has all the normal Austin-Healey leaks from
the engine, gearbox/OD and diff, the Healey Saloon has very few.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Kahn via
Healeys
Sent: Monday, 5 September 2022 10:55 AM
To: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>; List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

 

Most auto parts stores sell oils pans for under the car. You will need two.

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Jim Ryan
<ryan at jimryan.com <mailto:ryan at jimryan.com> >
Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2022 3:32 PM
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection 

 

We just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I
drip oil on it.  just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on
which you park.  Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide
under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen,
if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a
couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need
something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like
that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use.



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Sep  7 06:30:12 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2022 13:30:12 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protection
In-Reply-To: <00e401d8c2b1$200f1950$602d4bf0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAEajuYy-sqPL58QdwcBQdWCR-jGf6kjT7+fUAZKqeYS68n-9dQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BY5PR07MB651490FFA7560DDF2DA5DBCAA47F9@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <00e401d8c2b1$200f1950$602d4bf0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <000501d8c2b5$94599e80$bd0cdb80$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I just use two long drip trays. 1m long, 400mm wide, 100mm high. Does the
job. 

Buy them at any decent auto spares shop for +/- peanuts.

Quite useful things as they catch most of the miscreant nuts and bolts that
make it past the chassis


..

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn via Healeys
Sent: 07 September 2022 12:58
To: 'Richard Kahn' <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>; 'Jim Ryan' <ryan at jimryan.com>;
'List Healey' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil drip protection

 

Hello

 

A few years back I had two drip-trays made of flat galvanised steel.

 

Each is 6 ? ft long and 2ft wide with a lip all round of ? inch.

 

Both work well and while the BN3 has all the normal Austin-Healey leaks from
the engine, gearbox/OD and diff, the Healey Saloon has very few.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

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From wdavid890dd at aol.com  Wed Sep  7 10:08:17 2022
From: wdavid890dd at aol.com (wdavid890dd at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2022 16:08:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 275
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1662487201.11271.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1662487201.11271.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <842146160.437653.1662566897590@mail.yahoo.com>

Jim,?? ? ? ?I use an oil absorbent rug.Dave Walsh


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2022 2:00 pm
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 275

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Oil Drips (rfbegani at gmail.com)
? 2. Re: Oil drip protection (rfbegani at gmail.com)
<!--#yiv3138923448 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3138923448 #yiv3138923448 p.yiv3138923448MsoNormal, #yiv3138923448 li.yiv3138923448MsoNormal, #yiv3138923448 div.yiv3138923448MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3138923448 a:link, #yiv3138923448 span.yiv3138923448MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3138923448 span.yiv3138923448EmailStyle19 {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv3138923448 .yiv3138923448MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3138923448 div.yiv3138923448WordSection1 {}-->The sealer works great so you can power was or just scrub off oil drips and anything else. I am in Florida where the heat from the sun burns away a layer, so I redo the sealing every other year or so. ?Most of the time the oil leak comes from the rear seal and the resulting oil drops down out of the slot in the bottom of the bell housing then travels back along the frame, so it keeps the frame from rusting.?  ?You must fabricate your own Diaper Pan or find a friend who can do it for you.? I have the information in Florida how to.? But you will have to wait until I return.? Or some one on this list will remember.? I cannot find it on Sims 6 site. ?Bob Begani ?From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> 
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2022 2:57 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com
Subject: Re: Oil Drips ?Thanks for the info.? ?How did the sealer work?out?? If you got a drip did it just wash off?? Also, where did you get the "diaper pan" ?? I think the only leak I have in more towards the front, but I'm gonna put a white tarp under it for a night to determine exactly where it is.? ? ?On Mon, Sep 5, 2022 at 12:38 PM <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Ryan:?We had our driveway paved with real bricks and then I brought my Healey and discovered the stains oil drips do to bricks.? So, I went to Sherwin Williams, bought their clear sealer, and applied 2 coats, and a 3rd one where the Healey stops before going into the garage. Also, bought 2 metal pans from Walmart? Or one of the auto parts stores for the garage and coved with kitty litters.? After the engine was rebuilt and still had oil leaks, I installed diaper pan underneath the bell housing to catch them and used a vacuum oil catcher to suck up the oil that collects in the pan.? So far, I no longer have oil drips on the driveway.?Regards,?Bob Begani67 BJ8 

 ?-- Jim Ryan????<!--#yiv3138923448 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3138923448 #yiv3138923448 p.yiv3138923448MsoNormal, #yiv3138923448 li.yiv3138923448MsoNormal, #yiv3138923448 div.yiv3138923448MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3138923448 a:link, #yiv3138923448 span.yiv3138923448MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3138923448 span.yiv3138923448EmailStyle19 {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv3138923448 .yiv3138923448MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3138923448 div.yiv3138923448WordSection1 {}-->When I began to work on my BJ8 I went to Walgreen and asked for large cardboard boxes, cut,flattened and laid them on the floor under and all around the car.? Then sprayed the under and all around the car engine etc. with cheap Dollar Store grease dissolving cleaner and power washed it.? The grease oil and dirt are absorbed by the cardboard and the water flows out the garage door and down the driveway.? The next day the cardboard is dry enough to roll it up and stuff into the garbage container.? The floor of the garage is nice and clean for working, but the underside of the Healey is oil and grease free for working and painting.?  ?Bob BeganiFrom: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of llennep--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2022 12:45 PM
To: ryan at jimryan.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil drip protection ?I use large pieces of cardboard from furniture store discards and cut it to suit me for both my very very drippy AH and my slightly drippy 36 Chevy. ?Cheap (free), foldable, light weight, cut to any shape/size. Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
To: List Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 4, 2022 6:32 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Oil drip protectionWe just got a new fancy brick driveway and there will be hell to pay if I drip oil on it.? just wondering what people use to protect the surfaces on which you park.? Preferably, I would like something that I could just slide under it when I park, and pull it out before I leave. Most things I've seen, if I leave behind when I pull away, will just blow away. I only have a couple of drips and I kind of know where they are, so I wouldn't need something really huge. I'm thinking maybe a cookie sheet, or something like that. I just wanted to see what are the options people use._______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net_______________________________________________
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Sep  7 11:41:44 2022
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2022 18:41:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Pretty Jamaican
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJDD9F0RvQs_BEn7Us_BHZeXNMkH9Or3R9YptKivEo4bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJDD9F0RvQs_BEn7Us_BHZeXNMkH9Or3R9YptKivEo4bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <178f68d3-a521-1146-9826-0f92f74da243@summaventures.com>

Well if I get to the sale I will let you know what it goes for. My guess 
would be nearer the bottom than the top end. There isn't a huge market 
for what are seen - rightly or wrongly - as kit cars. As for the race 
car that is claimed in the headline, there is a lot more interesting 
stuff out there and I doubt that it would be very competitive without a 
lot of work.

Asa road car it doesn't even have much stowage space.

IMHO it's well-presented but while pretty, these are bitsa cars, bitsa 
this and bitsa that. To my eyes it looks a bit like an Iso, a tiny bit 
of Miura in there maybe, even a bit of TVR. The nose could have been 
better rendered and the side windows look a bit compromised and I have 
doubts about the efficacy of driving lights. There really is little of 
an integrated design vision.

In short I wouldn't bid for it. :-)

Sorry to be controversial, :-)

Peter


On 07/09/2022 05:49, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> A handsome rebuild at a pretty reasonable price if you ask me.
> 
> https://silodrome.com/jamaican-austin-healey-3000-car/ 
> <https://silodrome.com/jamaican-austin-healey-3000-car/>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From dwflagg at juno.com  Thu Sep  8 09:10:55 2022
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2022 15:10:55 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Fuel Gauge
Message-ID: <20220908.111055.15710.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com>

If anyone has a rebuildable 100-4 fuel gauge, please contact me off list. Thanks.Doug
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Sep  9 14:48:17 2022
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2022 20:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder article
References: <772346892.1187948.1662756497682.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <772346892.1187948.1662756497682@mail.yahoo.com>

Years ago Roger Moment wrote an article about the 100 master cylinder & how the reproduction rebuild kits has a design flaw related to the check valve. I can't find the article in my filing system. Can anyone point me to a copy of it?Thanks,Gary Hodson
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Sep 10 02:41:13 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 09:41:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
Message-ID: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>

We're looking at a MkII BT7 here....

So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
one still in the car I see that the former has a RED "Main beam warning
light" whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one. 

The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
104:- "..next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
"ignition" (discharging) warning light....On the right was the tachometer
with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
high-beam warning light." 

Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that's just a muddle. Doubtless
subject to subsequent corrections.

However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.

So......?

Thanks,

Simon

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep 10 08:18:38 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 07:18:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
In-Reply-To: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <1967514b-7718-5d82-fbb4-6c72b3b2aaf2@comcast.net>

Apparently a muddle. I don't have a BT7, but AFAIK all speedometers 
after the 100s had a blue(?) high beam light and the tach had the red 
ignition warning light. There is no need for a 'ratio' on the tach; I 
believe your car would have cable drive whilst later cars would have an 
electronic tach, driven by coil input pulses.

On 9/10/2022 1:41 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???.
>
> So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to 
> the one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main beam 
> warning light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one.
>
> The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. 
> Page 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its face 
> indicating its ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable 
> odometer, and the RED ?ignition? (discharging) warning light???.On the 
> right was the tachometer with a number on the face indicating the 
> ratio, and incorporating the RED high-beam warning light.?
>
> Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle. 
> Doubtless subject to subsequent corrections.
>
> However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.
>
> So???????
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Sat Sep 10 08:26:17 2022
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 07:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
In-Reply-To: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <27A1029D-2BC8-479A-9F45-467842B024CA@gmail.com>

High beam warning light is Blue. Ignition warning light is Red

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 10, 2022, at 2:01 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???.
> So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main beam warning light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one.
> The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED ?ignition? (discharging) warning light???.On the right was the tachometer with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED high-beam warning light.?
> Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle. Doubtless subject to subsequent corrections.
> However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.
> So???????
> Thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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From kags at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 10 09:14:51 2022
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 08:14:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
In-Reply-To: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <000001d8c528$14251d50$3c6f57f0$@shaw.ca>

Hi Simon:

 

My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from previous
conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red ignition warning
light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were different - no indication
of different speedo / tach part numbers in the original parts books, but
perhaps another UK lister could chime in here and verify.  I suspect that
it's a typo in the Anderson Moment book.  The referral to 'ratio' is the
number that insures that the speedo head is is properly matched to the
different rear axle ratios that were used during the 6 cyl production - up
to the BJ8, which went to black instrument faces, and an electronic tach, as
Bob indicates.

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria, BC

BT7, BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

 

We're looking at a MkII BT7 here....

So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
one still in the car I see that the former has a RED "Main beam warning
light" whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one. 

The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
104:- "..next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
"ignition" (discharging) warning light....On the right was the tachometer
with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
high-beam warning light." 

Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that's just a muddle. Doubtless
subject to subsequent corrections.

However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.

So......?

Thanks,

Simon



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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From allan-peters at sky.com  Sat Sep 10 11:57:03 2022
From: allan-peters at sky.com (Allan Peters)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 17:57:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Barn find  100-4
References: <1447681681.2901764.1662832625652.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1447681681.2901764.1662832625652@mail.yahoo.com>

PolkAuctions.com of? Lynchburg,? Virginia are holding a massive? Sale of? a MARK? SMITH? Collection.on October? 21st.
I spotted a real Jem of a 100 that appears in a Photo? !,? but? unfortunately is not in the list? of Lots? for SaleProbably just as well as the Dollar is really Strong.Car looks really? interesting with a U/L? Hardtop, side? exit exhaust and? bn2? front wingsSee Photo
Had some luck with my own BN1 !!? Spotted a Real? 100M? ?Distributor on Ebay and is now Fitted.? It has Certainly? Livened? things up,? ?Will be roadtesting it shortly to test the Overdrive

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Sep 10 12:01:53 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 19:01:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
In-Reply-To: <000001d8c528$14251d50$3c6f57f0$@shaw.ca>
References: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001d8c528$14251d50$3c6f57f0$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <000001d8c53f$69e31190$3da934b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Well, thank you all for your replies.

I don't normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for colour
pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-"Blah blah.At the bottom
of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp, originally red but changed
to blue on some export cars from chassis 14171 on the 3000 MarkII".

Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to take
months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but non-functional unit
from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the pond or maybe somewhere
even more exotic..Which may relate to the "some exports" bit??

One last question, actually two:-

1.	How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
can swap my red for blue?
2.	With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
invisible. I'm pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could be 20+
years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty hole. (100%
intact except for the red bit). The guy at Speedograph-Richfield said that
the red was just something cut from a piece of red acetate. Is that so?
Seems hard to imagine how...

Any ideas?

Simon

 

From: kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca> 
Sent: 10 September 2022 16:15
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

 

Hi Simon:

 

My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from previous
conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red ignition warning
light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were different - no indication
of different speedo / tach part numbers in the original parts books, but
perhaps another UK lister could chime in here and verify.  I suspect that
it's a typo in the Anderson Moment book.  The referral to 'ratio' is the
number that insures that the speedo head is is properly matched to the
different rear axle ratios that were used during the 6 cyl production - up
to the BJ8, which went to black instrument faces, and an electronic tach, as
Bob indicates.

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria, BC

BT7, BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via
Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

 

We're looking at a MkII BT7 here....

So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
one still in the car I see that the former has a RED "Main beam warning
light" whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one. 

The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
104:- "..next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
"ignition" (discharging) warning light....On the right was the tachometer
with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
high-beam warning light." 

Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that's just a muddle. Doubtless
subject to subsequent corrections.

However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.

So......?

Thanks,

Simon

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free.
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Sep 10 17:34:40 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 23:34:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
Message-ID: <bf54002d27c451c5371879f6c357061b036a0237@webmail>

Simon-if you have good eye sight and a steady hand, CAREFULLY,
slightly open the tabs on the rear of the chrome ring-just a slight
bit-if you move them too much they will break off. Now rotate the ring
to the open slots. Don't let the glass fall out. Carefully lift from
the seal. Remove and clean glass inside-don't bung the needle, but the
little circle you can probably push out from the rear lamp opening-yes
it is just s small piece of acetate or Mylar. Replace the circle with
the blue one-maybe a very small drop of airplane glue on edge if it
tends to fall out-if tight good- if loose it will be laying in the
bottom of the gauge after a few miles.
Now rotate the ring back into place and just push the tabs down a
small bit, softly-I use a wood coffee stick-again so you don't break
them off-they are brittle from chroming. Clean the outside of the
glass and replace the rubber "O" ring which is actually a square
rubber to be correct. Best of luck. 
For the ignition lamp, make sure you have the correct bulb-it is not
the same as the panel bulb-its brighter. Needs a good ground as well.
Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Simon Lachlan via
Healeys" 
To: kags at shaw.ca
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 12:35:54PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

	Well, thank you all for your replies. 

	I don?t normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for
colour pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-?Blah
blah?At the bottom of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp,
originally red but changed to blue on some export cars from chassis
14171 on the 3000 MarkII?. 

	Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to
take months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but
non-functional unit from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the
pond or maybe somewhere even more exotic?.Which may relate to the
?some exports? bit?? 

	One last question, actually two:- 

	* How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
can swap my red for blue?
 	* With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
invisible. I?m pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could
be 20+ years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty
hole. (100% intact except for the red bit). The guy at
Speedograph-Richfield said that the red was just something cut from a
piece of red acetate. Is that so? Seems hard to imagine how?..

	Any ideas? 

	Simon 

	FROM: kags at shaw.ca 
SENT: 10 September 2022 16:15
TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
CC: Healey List 
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light   

	Hi Simon: 

	My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from
previous conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red
ignition warning light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were
different ? no indication of different speedo / tach part numbers in
the original parts books, but perhaps another UK lister could chime in
here and verify. I suspect that it?s a typo in the Anderson Moment
book. The referral to ?ratio? is the number that insures that the
speedo head is is properly matched to the different rear axle ratios
that were used during the 6 cyl production - up to the BJ8, which went
to black instrument faces, and an electronic tach, as Bob indicates. 

	Earl Kagna 

	Victoria, BC 

	BT7, BJ8 

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF Simon Lachlan via Healeys
SENT: Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
TO: 'Healeys' 
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Main beam warning light   

	We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???. 

	So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it
to the one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main
beam warning light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE
one. 

	The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic.
Page 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its
face indicating its ratio, and which included a mileage meter,
resettable odometer, and the RED ?ignition? (discharging) warning
light???.On the right was the tachometer with a number on the
face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED high-beam warning
light.? 

	Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle.
Doubtless subject to subsequent corrections. 

	However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct. 

	So??????? 

	Thanks, 

	Simon  

	 [1]   

	Virus-free.www.avast.com [2]  

	    

Links:
------
[1]
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
[2]
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Sep 10 18:04:03 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 00:04:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re:  Main beam warning light
Message-ID: <cda764e33f5aa5bdb455993db8c70444873f91e0@webmail>

Opps! check that-panel and ignition warning bulbs are the same item-
2.2W #BFS987 on all cars from 100 thru 3000. Also no ground on the
ignition warning only the headlight high beam. Wire from lamp comes
from the voltage regulator terminal D or W and the white wire goes to
your ignition switch center terminal (on). Good contact is essential.
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net
To: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
Cc: "kags at shaw.ca", "Healey List"
Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 4:34:40PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

 Simon-if you have good eye sight and a steady hand, CAREFULLY,
slightly open the tabs on the rear of the chrome ring-just a slight
bit-if you move them too much they will break off. Now rotate the ring
to the open slots. Don't let the glass fall out. Carefully lift from
the seal. Remove and clean glass inside-don't bung the needle, but the
little circle you can probably push out from the rear lamp opening-yes
it is just s small piece of acetate or Mylar. Replace the circle with
the blue one-maybe a very small drop of airplane glue on edge if it
tends to fall out-if tight good- if loose it will be laying in the
bottom of the gauge after a few miles. 
 Now rotate the ring back into place and just push the tabs down a
small bit, softly-I use a wood coffee stick-again so you don't break
them off-they are brittle from chroming. Clean the outside of the
glass and replace the rubber "O" ring which is actually a square
rubber to be correct. Best of luck.  
 For the ignition lamp, make sure you have the correct bulb-it is not
the same as the panel bulb-its brighter. Needs a good ground as well.
Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Simon Lachlan via
Healeys"
 To: kags at shaw.ca
 Cc: "Healey List"
 Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 12:35:54PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light

	Well, thank you all for your replies. 

	I don?t normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for
colour pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-?Blah
blah?At the bottom of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp,
originally red but changed to blue on some export cars from chassis
14171 on the 3000 MarkII?. 

	Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to
take months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but
non-functional unit from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the
pond or maybe somewhere even more exotic?.Which may relate to the
?some exports? bit?? 

	One last question, actually two:- 

	* How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
can swap my red for blue?
 	* With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
invisible. I?m pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could
be 20+ years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty
hole. (100% intact except for the red bit). The guy at
Speedograph-Richfield said that the red was just something cut from a
piece of red acetate. Is that so? Seems hard to imagine how?..

	Any ideas? 

	Simon 

	FROM: kags at shaw.ca 
SENT: 10 September 2022 16:15
TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
CC: Healey List 
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light   

	Hi Simon: 

	My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from
previous conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red
ignition warning light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were
different ? no indication of different speedo / tach part numbers in
the original parts books, but perhaps another UK lister could chime in
here and verify. I suspect that it?s a typo in the Anderson Moment
book. The referral to ?ratio? is the number that insures that the
speedo head is is properly matched to the different rear axle ratios
that were used during the 6 cyl production - up to the BJ8, which went
to black instrument faces, and an electronic tach, as Bob indicates. 

	Earl Kagna 

	Victoria, BC 

	BT7, BJ8 

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF Simon Lachlan via Healeys
SENT: Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
TO: 'Healeys' 
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Main beam warning light   

	We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???. 

	So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it
to the one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main
beam warning light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE
one. 

	The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic.
Page 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its
face indicating its ratio, and which included a mileage meter,
resettable odometer, and the RED ?ignition? (discharging) warning
light???.On the right was the tachometer with a number on the
face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED high-beam warning
light.? 

	Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle.
Doubtless subject to subsequent corrections. 

	However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct. 

	So??????? 

	Thanks, 

	Simon  

	  [1]   

	Virus-free.www.avast.com [2]  

	    

Links:
------
[1]
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
[2]
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient

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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sun Sep 11 06:50:27 2022
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 08:50:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Barn find 100-4
In-Reply-To: <1447681681.2901764.1662832625652@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1447681681.2901764.1662832625652.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1447681681.2901764.1662832625652@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PL8_JV8PBPV0JmsKS8j96pvjVpsk=bYAO62MwOLFUu1Dw@mail.gmail.com>

The URL is polkauction.com.    No "S" in auction unless you want to go
somewhere you really don't want to go.

- Tom


On Sat, Sep 10, 2022 at 2:09 PM Allan Peters via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> PolkAuctions.com of  Lynchburg,  Virginia are holding a massive  Sale of
> a MARK  SMITH  Collection.on October  21st.
>
> I spotted a real Jem of a 100 that appears in a Photo  !,  but
> unfortunately is not in the list  of Lots  for Sale
> Probably just as well as the Dollar is really Strong.
> Car looks really  interesting with a U/L  Hardtop, side  exit exhaust and
> bn2  front wings
> See Photo
>
> Had some luck with my own BN1 !!  Spotted a Real  100M   Distributor on
> Ebay and is now Fitted.  It has Certainly  Livened  things up,   Will be
> roadtesting it shortly to test the Overdrive
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Sep 11 09:55:42 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 16:55:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
In-Reply-To: <07b901d8c597$3172a480$9457ed80$@roadrunner.com>
References: <000001d8c4f1$166b41c0$4341c540$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001d8c528$14251d50$3c6f57f0$@shaw.ca>
 <000001d8c53f$69e31190$3da934b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <07b901d8c597$3172a480$9457ed80$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <000501d8c5f6$f469a2e0$dd3ce8a0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

OK, last one on this. God willing.

I have a tacho with a bad red lens (too thick), a speedo with wrong colour
(red, not blue) and a (redundant/inaccurate) speedo with the correct colour
(blue).

Question:-

If the little tubes that protrude through the instruments' face and which
contain the coloured acetate could be pushed out, then I could swap things
around and get a blue where I want it and a good red where I want it.

Is that possible? ie will the tubes push out??

Plainly, I'm reluctant to start tapping on the back of these things if
they're well cemented to the back of the dial....

Thanks,

Simon

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From nstbennett at gmail.com  Sun Sep 11 13:07:25 2022
From: nstbennett at gmail.com (N.S. Bennett)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 13:07:25 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Barn Find 100-4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1662919202.11413.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1662919202.11413.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAEcLKwhKrAu1MmtKAqEPjfBE6Ya6dX2uZXFKW2OWONzS=2L0TA@mail.gmail.com>

Of particular note in auction files on the Polk Auction website is that UJB
144 appears to be included in the upcoming auction. The VIN provided
appears to match that of the "factory spare" Sebring car. The history is
interesting and probably best told by someone other than me.

Nate B.
'66 BJ8

On Sun, Sep 11, 2022, 12:13 PM <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>         healeys at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         healeys-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         healeys-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Main beam warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
>    2. Re: Main beam warning light (gradea1 at charter.net)
>    3. FW: Re:  Main beam warning light (gradea1 at charter.net)
>    4. Re: Barn find 100-4 (Tom)
>    5. Re: Main beam warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: <kags at shaw.ca>
> Cc: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 19:01:53 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
> Well, thank you all for your replies.
>
> I don?t normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for colour
> pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-?Blah blah?At the
> bottom of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp, originally red but
> changed to blue on some export cars from chassis 14171 on the 3000 MarkII?.
>
> Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to take
> months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but non-functional unit
> from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the pond or maybe somewhere
> even more exotic?.Which may relate to the ?some exports? bit??
>
> One last question, actually two:-
>
>    1. How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
>    can swap my red for blue?
>    2. With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
>    invisible. I?m pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could be 20+
>    years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty hole. (100%
>    intact except for the red bit). The guy at Speedograph-Richfield said that
>    the red was just something cut from a piece of red acetate. Is that so?
>    Seems hard to imagine how?..
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca>
> *Sent:* 10 September 2022 16:15
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> Hi Simon:
>
>
>
> My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from
> previous conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red ignition
> warning light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were different ? no
> indication of different speedo / tach part numbers in the original parts
> books, but perhaps another UK lister could chime in here and verify.  I
> suspect that it?s a typo in the Anderson Moment book.  The referral to
> ?ratio? is the number that insures that the speedo head is is properly
> matched to the different rear axle ratios that were used during the 6 cyl
> production - up to the BJ8, which went to black instrument faces, and an
> electronic tach, as Bob indicates.
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria, BC
>
> BT7, BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???.
>
> So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
> one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main beam warning
> light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one.
>
> The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
> 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
> ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
> ?ignition? (discharging) warning light???.On the right was the tachometer
> with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
> high-beam warning light.?
>
> Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle. Doubtless
> subject to subsequent corrections.
>
> However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.
>
> So???????
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> [image: width=]
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: gradea1 at charter.net
> To: "'simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com'" <
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Cc: "'kags at shaw.ca'" <kags at shaw.ca>, "'Healey List'" <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2022 23:34:40 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
> Simon-if you have good eye sight and a steady hand, CAREFULLY, slightly
> open the tabs on the rear of the chrome ring-just a slight bit-if you move
> them too much they will break off. Now rotate the ring to the open slots.
> Don't let the glass fall out. Carefully lift from the seal.  Remove and
> clean glass inside-don't bung the needle, but the little circle you can
> probably push out from the rear lamp opening-yes it is just s small piece
> of acetate or Mylar. Replace the circle with the blue one-maybe a very
> small drop of airplane glue on edge if it tends to fall out-if tight good-
> if loose it will be laying in the bottom of the gauge after a few miles.
>
> Now rotate the ring back into place and just push the tabs down a small
> bit, softly-I use a wood coffee stick-again so you don't break them
> off-they are brittle from chroming. Clean the outside of the glass and
> replace the rubber "O" ring which is actually a square rubber to be
> correct. Best of luck.
>
> For the ignition lamp, make sure you have the correct bulb-it is not the
> same as the panel bulb-its brighter. Needs a good ground as well.  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys"
> To: kags at shaw.ca
> Cc: "Healey List"
> Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 12:35:54PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
> Well, thank you all for your replies.
>
> I don?t normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for colour
> pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-?Blah blah?At the
> bottom of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp, originally red but
> changed to blue on some export cars from chassis 14171 on the 3000 MarkII?.
>
> Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to take
> months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but non-functional unit
> from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the pond or maybe somewhere
> even more exotic?.Which may relate to the ?some exports? bit??
>
> One last question, actually two:-
>
>    1. How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
>    can swap my red for blue?
>    2. With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
>    invisible. I?m pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could be 20+
>    years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty hole. (100%
>    intact except for the red bit). The guy at Speedograph-Richfield said that
>    the red was just something cut from a piece of red acetate. Is that so?
>    Seems hard to imagine how?..
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca>
> *Sent:* 10 September 2022 16:15
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> Hi Simon:
>
>
>
> My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from
> previous conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red ignition
> warning light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were different ? no
> indication of different speedo / tach part numbers in the original parts
> books, but perhaps another UK lister could chime in here and verify.  I
> suspect that it?s a typo in the Anderson Moment book.  The referral to
> ?ratio? is the number that insures that the speedo head is is properly
> matched to the different rear axle ratios that were used during the 6 cyl
> production - up to the BJ8, which went to black instrument faces, and an
> electronic tach, as Bob indicates.
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria, BC
>
> BT7, BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> *On Behalf Of* Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???.
>
> So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
> one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main beam warning
> light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one.
>
> The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
> 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
> ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
> ?ignition? (discharging) warning light???.On the right was the tachometer
> with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
> high-beam warning light.?
>
> Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle. Doubtless
> subject to subsequent corrections.
>
> However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.
>
> So???????
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> [image: width=]
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: gradea1 at charter.net
> To: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "'
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com'" <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 00:04:03 +0000
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re:  Main beam warning light
> Opps! check  that-panel and ignition warning bulbs are the same item- 2.2W
> #BFS987 on all cars from 100 thru 3000.  Also no ground on the ignition
> warning only the headlight high beam.  Wire from lamp comes from the
> voltage regulator terminal D or W and the white wire goes to your ignition
> switch center terminal (on). Good contact is essential. Regards, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: gradea1 at charter.net
> To: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
> Cc: "kags at shaw.ca", "Healey List"
> Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 4:34:40PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
> Simon-if you have good eye sight and a steady hand, CAREFULLY, slightly
> open the tabs on the rear of the chrome ring-just a slight bit-if you move
> them too much they will break off. Now rotate the ring to the open slots.
> Don't let the glass fall out. Carefully lift from the seal.  Remove and
> clean glass inside-don't bung the needle, but the little circle you can
> probably push out from the rear lamp opening-yes it is just s small piece
> of acetate or Mylar. Replace the circle with the blue one-maybe a very
> small drop of airplane glue on edge if it tends to fall out-if tight good-
> if loose it will be laying in the bottom of the gauge after a few miles.
>
> Now rotate the ring back into place and just push the tabs down a small
> bit, softly-I use a wood coffee stick-again so you don't break them
> off-they are brittle from chroming. Clean the outside of the glass and
> replace the rubber "O" ring which is actually a square rubber to be
> correct. Best of luck.
>
> For the ignition lamp, make sure you have the correct bulb-it is not the
> same as the panel bulb-its brighter. Needs a good ground as well.  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys"
> To: kags at shaw.ca
> Cc: "Healey List"
> Sent: Saturday September 10 2022 12:35:54PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
> Well, thank you all for your replies.
>
> I don?t normally put much stock in the Clausager book, except for colour
> pictures. However, I did find this which does help:-?Blah blah?At the
> bottom of the speedometer was a high beam warning lamp, originally red but
> changed to blue on some export cars from chassis 14171 on the 3000 MarkII?.
>
> Now, bearing in mind that the UK calibration people seem to want to take
> months to do a speedo, I bought a decent-looking but non-functional unit
> from Michael. Hence the speedo came from over the pond or maybe somewhere
> even more exotic?.Which may relate to the ?some exports? bit??
>
> One last question, actually two:-
>
>    1. How easy is to get the little lamp thing out of the dial so that I
>    can swap my red for blue?
>    2. With regard to my tacho, the red light has always been practically
>    invisible. I?m pretty sure that, back in the dim distant past (could be 20+
>    years), I put a piece of red plastic into an otherwise empty hole. (100%
>    intact except for the red bit). The guy at Speedograph-Richfield said that
>    the red was just something cut from a piece of red acetate. Is that so?
>    Seems hard to imagine how?..
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca>
> *Sent:* 10 September 2022 16:15
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> Hi Simon:
>
>
>
> My BT7 tri-carb, which is very close to yours in serial number from
> previous conversations, has a blue high beam warning light (red ignition
> warning light). I doubt that the UK / European cars were different ? no
> indication of different speedo / tach part numbers in the original parts
> books, but perhaps another UK lister could chime in here and verify.  I
> suspect that it?s a typo in the Anderson Moment book.  The referral to
> ?ratio? is the number that insures that the speedo head is is properly
> matched to the different rear axle ratios that were used during the 6 cyl
> production - up to the BJ8, which went to black instrument faces, and an
> electronic tach, as Bob indicates.
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria, BC
>
> BT7, BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> *On Behalf Of* Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:41 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
>
>
> We?re looking at a MkII BT7 here???.
>
> So, my speedo has just come back from calibration and, comparing it to the
> one still in the car I see that the former has a RED ?Main beam warning
> light? whereas the latter, still in the car, has a BLUE one.
>
> The bible, Anderson & Moment, is confused and confusing on the topic. Page
> 104:- ???next was the speedometer, with a number on its face indicating its
> ratio, and which included a mileage meter, resettable odometer, and the RED
> ?ignition? (discharging) warning light???.On the right was the tachometer
> with a number on the face indicating the ratio, and incorporating the RED
> high-beam warning light.?
>
> Now, unless that all refers to LHD cars, that?s just a muddle. Doubtless
> subject to subsequent corrections.
>
> However, it leaves me confused as to which colour is correct.
>
> So???????
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> [image: width=]
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com>
> To: Allan Peters <allan-peters at sky.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 08:50:27 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Barn find 100-4
> The URL is polkauction.com.    No "S" in auction unless you want to go
> somewhere you really don't want to go.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 10, 2022 at 2:09 PM Allan Peters via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> PolkAuctions.com of  Lynchburg,  Virginia are holding a massive  Sale of
>> a MARK  SMITH  Collection.on October  21st.
>>
>> I spotted a real Jem of a 100 that appears in a Photo  !,  but
>> unfortunately is not in the list  of Lots  for Sale
>> Probably just as well as the Dollar is really Strong.
>> Car looks really  interesting with a U/L  Hardtop, side  exit exhaust
>> and  bn2  front wings
>> See Photo
>>
>> Had some luck with my own BN1 !!  Spotted a Real  100M   Distributor on
>> Ebay and is now Fitted.  It has Certainly  Livened  things up,   Will be
>> roadtesting it shortly to test the Overdrive
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To:
> Cc: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 16:55:42 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Main beam warning light
>
> OK, last one on this. God willing.
>
> I have a tacho with a bad red lens (too thick), a speedo with wrong colour
> (red, not blue) and a (redundant/inaccurate) speedo with the correct colour
> (blue).
>
> Question:-
>
> If the little tubes that protrude through the instruments? face and which
> contain the coloured acetate could be pushed out, then I could swap things
> around and get a blue where I want it and a good red where I want it.
>
> Is that possible? ie will the tubes push out??
>
> Plainly, I?m reluctant to start tapping on the back of these things if
> they?re well cemented to the back of the dial??..
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>
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From outfitter at jps.net  Sun Sep 11 15:56:55 2022
From: outfitter at jps.net (Rory Janes)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 21:56:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <62300f80-6fce-6fd7-f4a0-1251af934781@jps.net>

Here is a fuel pump question for a BJ8 3000 MK3:
After sitting for several months we started -  cleaned up the car, then after washing the next start attempt seemed
like it was fuel starved. The usual click of the fuel pump then pulsed very rapidly for a few seconds - then stopped.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Rory
1964 BJ8

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 11 16:25:25 2022
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Ricchardd Mayor)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 15:25:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <62300f80-6fce-6fd7-f4a0-1251af934781@jps.net>
References: <62300f80-6fce-6fd7-f4a0-1251af934781@jps.net>
Message-ID: <A0DDCD89-06B4-4FC3-ADDA-10E2496EDA40@gmail.com>

Sounds like the fuel pumped worked as it should.  The clicking means it?s pumping.  When the fuel line is fully pressurized, the pump stops pumping (clicking). 


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:56 PM, Rory Janes via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Here is a fuel pump question for a BJ8 3000 MK3:
> After sitting for several months we started -  cleaned up the car, then after washing the next start attempt seemed
> like it was fuel starved. The usual click of the fuel pump then pulsed very rapidly for a few seconds - then stopped.
> Any ideas?
> Thanks
> Rory
> 1964 BJ8
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Sep 11 18:33:50 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2022 00:33:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
Message-ID: <8738505f268d996d9d8b621c7a7a89866587506c@webmail>

Rory- Rapid pulsing is air- if no fuel in the tank or plugged line it
will pulse rapidly but keep doing that until it finds fuel. Check the
level in the float bowls-if full- fuel pump will not pulse. Each time
you turn the key on, the pump may give one click and stop if normal.
As soon as there is a fuel demand the pump should click in a rhythmic,
not rapid mode.
If you now have no response from the pump it is possible that the
points are stuck or capacitor has fried. That will require removal of
the pump per the workshop book and adjust or fix problem.

Set the points throw over with an energized pump following the
procedure in the service manual. Good luck, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Ricchardd Mayor" 
To: "Rory Janes"
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday September 11 2022 3:44:25PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

 Sounds like the fuel pumped worked as it should. The clicking means
it?s pumping. When the fuel line is fully pressurized, the pump
stops pumping (clicking). 

 Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com

  On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:56 PM, Rory Janes via Healeys  wrote: 
 Here is a fuel pump question for a BJ8 3000 MK3: After sitting for
several months we started - cleaned up the car, then after washing the
next start attempt seemed like it was fuel starved. The usual click of
the fuel pump then pulsed very rapidly for a few seconds - then
stopped. Any ideas? Thanks Rory 1964 BJ8 

	  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net [1]  [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] 
[6]http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [7]

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 Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
[9]

 

Links:
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[1] http://Team.Net
[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From alanwassermannc at gmail.com  Mon Sep 12 12:52:09 2022
From: alanwassermannc at gmail.com (Alan Wasserman)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2022 14:52:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <A0DDCD89-06B4-4FC3-ADDA-10E2496EDA40@gmail.com>
References: <A0DDCD89-06B4-4FC3-ADDA-10E2496EDA40@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4058B336-9CE5-4CA4-B1A5-EADBB9E91BF8@gmail.com>

Possibly out of gas??

Alan Wasserman
Alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com

> On Sep 11, 2022, at 6:25 PM, Ricchardd Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Sounds like the fuel pumped worked as it should.  The clicking means it?s pumping.  When the fuel line is fully pressurized, the pump stops pumping (clicking). 
> 
> 
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:56 PM, Rory Janes via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Here is a fuel pump question for a BJ8 3000 MK3:
>> After sitting for several months we started -  cleaned up the car, then after washing the next start attempt seemed
>> like it was fuel starved. The usual click of the fuel pump then pulsed very rapidly for a few seconds - then stopped.
>> Any ideas?
>> Thanks
>> Rory
>> 1964 BJ8
>>  
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>> 
> 
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Sep 13 06:55:41 2022
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2022 08:55:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfpQd1gE5e5aNqkFbnDLHkgJ8Wby+Gmjvrstop=Nhb69A@mail.gmail.com>

 We've learned that Bill Wood, first president of the Northeast Region of
the Austin-Healey Club of America passed away Sunday at the age of 85. Bill
was a noted Healey expert with expertise on the 100 and 100S. More
information regarding condolences will be provided as they become
available.

Rick Neville

[image: photo (7).JPG]
[image: 306587188_1398060367269796_3155430783681746754_n.jpeg]
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Sep 13 18:45:11 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 00:45:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood
Message-ID: <c23d78c2cc1e171600dec551e1069033000742d3@webmail>

Very sad. Bill has been a member of our club from the early '70 and
had all the good cars. He helped to discover in the '80s the original
Donald Healey tour car AHX3 (body #2) in concert with Don Paye. Car
was located in Saugerties, New York and verified by Geoff Healey.
Currently it resides in Virginia.
He was very knowledgeable on the early Healeys and will be greatly
missed by the Healey community. Hank Leach

	-----------------------------------------From: "HealeyRick" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday September 13 2022 6:17:41AM
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood

   We've learned that Bill Wood, first president of the Northeast
Region of the Austin-Healey Club of America passed away Sunday at the
age of 85. Bill was a noted Healey expert with expertise on the 100
and 100S. More information regarding condolences will be provided as
they become available.

  Rick Neville  


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From cfrazer at uoregon.edu  Tue Sep 13 19:08:19 2022
From: cfrazer at uoregon.edu (Charles Frazer)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 01:08:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Keys
Message-ID: <D09E9AE4-E0B7-46CD-BACA-80DDD6712205@uoregon.edu>

Last I remember Pete Grogh was the source for Healey keys.
Can anyone supply his email?
Thanks.

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Sep 13 20:22:54 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 10:22:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfpQd1gE5e5aNqkFbnDLHkgJ8Wby+Gmjvrstop=Nhb69A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfpQd1gE5e5aNqkFbnDLHkgJ8Wby+Gmjvrstop=Nhb69A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKB_r=QTNM7V=9WMS+BuCWCDdYy4UMF=2WRV6iHo_v-Bw@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry to hear that about Bill Wood.  He was a good guy and shall be missed.

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 9:14 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

>  We've learned that Bill Wood, first president of the Northeast Region of
> the Austin-Healey Club of America passed away Sunday at the age of 85. Bill
> was a noted Healey expert with expertise on the 100 and 100S. More
> information regarding condolences will be provided as they become
> available.
>
> Rick Neville
>
> [image: photo (7).JPG]
> [image: 306587188_1398060367269796_3155430783681746754_n.jpeg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Sep 13 21:45:59 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2022 20:45:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Keys
In-Reply-To: <D09E9AE4-E0B7-46CD-BACA-80DDD6712205@uoregon.edu>
References: <D09E9AE4-E0B7-46CD-BACA-80DDD6712205@uoregon.edu>
Message-ID: <ce6324d6-f3ea-71ff-1fb4-37bba8361d1d@comcast.net>

This is what I have:? petegroh at gmail.com

On 9/13/2022 6:08 PM, Charles Frazer wrote:
> Last I remember Pete Grogh was the source for Healey keys.
> Can anyone supply his email?
> Thanks.
>


From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Sep 13 22:45:14 2022
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 14:45:14 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKB_r=QTNM7V=9WMS+BuCWCDdYy4UMF=2WRV6iHo_v-Bw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfpQd1gE5e5aNqkFbnDLHkgJ8Wby+Gmjvrstop=Nhb69A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkKB_r=QTNM7V=9WMS+BuCWCDdYy4UMF=2WRV6iHo_v-Bw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008201d8c7f4$c83ce010$58b6a030$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Sad news. In 1975 Alan Jones and I stayed with Bill and Lynn Wood in their Connecticut home. Bill was very kind to pick us up at the New York Greyhound bus station and a few days later took Alan and I to JFK Airport for our onward journey to London. In between there was plenty of Austin-Healey talk and being very well looked after.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, 14 September 2022 12:23 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Passing of Bill Wood

 

Sorry to hear that about Bill Wood.  He was a good guy and shall be missed.

 

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 9:14 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

 We've learned that Bill Wood, first president of the Northeast Region of the Austin-Healey Club of America passed away Sunday at the age of 85. Bill was a noted Healey expert with expertise on the 100 and 100S. More information regarding condolences will be provided as they become available. 

 

Rick Neville

 





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From britishauto at gmail.com  Wed Sep 14 05:19:43 2022
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2022 07:19:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Keys
In-Reply-To: <ce6324d6-f3ea-71ff-1fb4-37bba8361d1d@comcast.net>
References: <D09E9AE4-E0B7-46CD-BACA-80DDD6712205@uoregon.edu>
 <ce6324d6-f3ea-71ff-1fb4-37bba8361d1d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bBZJnSWubroFs0mtYODp0quLqdA+fHdwaHCnQD7VP3Nmg@mail.gmail.com>

I can cut small Wilmot Breeden (Union) keys to code. FA, FP, FS, FT, FR as
well as the longer ignition keys in MG, Triumph, Jaguar.
These aren't duplicates, they're newly cut. I use handheld Curtis model 14
and 15 cutters.
I have different head styles in stock, round, rectangular, polybow, long,
etc
Shoot me an email if Pete doesn't respond and you need it quickly.
Jake

On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 1:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> This is what I have:  petegroh at gmail.com
>
> On 9/13/2022 6:08 PM, Charles Frazer wrote:
> > Last I remember Pete Grogh was the source for Healey keys.
> > Can anyone supply his email?
> > Thanks.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Sep 14 20:09:03 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 02:09:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] The Queen's Coronation
Message-ID: <2932892e7c06c9fe734a0ea6c14b6fae3938765b@webmail>

Now that we have lost the Queen, its time to reflect on her rein of
England. Some articles are already popping up in the media, like the
one below. However, I would like to remind everyone of our special
tribute to the Queen during her Coronation. The Austin-Healey 100 was
in production and as a token to her newly garnered throne, BMC
produced about 550 (620 according to Bill Piggott) special AH100 cars
painted in "Coronet Cream" The color lost popularity as time went on
and many of the original cars ended up painted red.
The first Coronet cream car was #140272, body 121, built in August
1953. I have found 85 cars painted this color in my Registry
records-where are the rest? One of the Healey list folks, Joe Costa
who was true to the Queen and his Healey, restored his car in CC.
Hank------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Saying Britain?s Royal Family has a love of cars would be a bit of
an understatement, with an eclectic car collection [1] that included
cars from Daimler, to Vauxhall, Rolls-Royce, Land Rover, JAGUAR [2]
and BENTLEY [3]. However, the late Queen Elizabeth II herself stands
out for being a royal auto enthusiast [4] who liked to drive herself
around, even if she never had a driver?s license! Heck, she even
liked getting her hands dirty, having been trained as a mechanic in
the Second World War [5].    [6] [7]  Remembering The Times Car Makers
Built Special Models For Queen Elizabeth II? Provided by HotCars   

	 Knowing that, it makes sense that car manufacturers have placed such
high importance on the royal patronage [8]. While the Queen?s
personal favourite brand is said to be Land Rover [9] (having owned
over 30), that hasn?t stopped Britain?s finest from preparing cars
for her, and in her tribute. 

Links:
------
[1]
https://www.hotcars.com/25-rare-classic-cars-owned-by-queen-elizabeth-ii/?utm_source=syndication
[2] https://www.hotcars.com/tag/jaguar/?utm_source=syndication
[3]
http://mail2.spectrum.net/HTTPS://WWW.HOTCARS.COM/TAG/BENTLEY/?UTM_SOURCE=SYNDICATION
[4]
https://www.hotcars.com/remembering-queen-elizabeth-ii-car-collection-true-gear-head/?utm_source=syndication
[5]
https://www.insider.com/photos-queen-elizabeth-mechanic-world-war-ii-2020-4?utm_source=syndication
[6]
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/remembering-the-times-car-makers-built-special-models-for-queen-elizabeth-ii/ar-AA11N1Z3?ocid=msedgntp&cvid=f76f1a5b60594eda847b8e2227149557&fullscreen=true#image=1
[7]
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/remembering-the-times-car-makers-built-special-models-for-queen-elizabeth-ii/ar-AA11N1Z3?ocid=msedgntp&cvid=f76f1a5b60594eda847b8e2227149557&fullscreen=true#image=1
[8]
https://www.hotcars.com/prince-philip-helped-design-his-funerals-land-rover-hearse/?utm_source=syndication
[9]
https://www.hotcars.com/land-rover-defender-1990-110/?utm_source=syndication

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 00:09:49 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 14:09:49 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] The Queen's Coronation
In-Reply-To: <2932892e7c06c9fe734a0ea6c14b6fae3938765b@webmail>
References: <2932892e7c06c9fe734a0ea6c14b6fae3938765b@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLYLtxcNAAhx0v8C2nvSqHM8e73EEtmn0RuL0NLfkJFow@mail.gmail.com>

All -

#793, built November 1953, was painted this color and will be at the
Conclave in PA after being restored back to factory spec.

Unfortunately due to continuing COVID travel restrictions in HK, I can?t be
there but if you find Micheal Salter he can show you all the weird quirks.

Now all she needs is to be up rated to a Le Mans ?? or not!

Cheers,

Alan



On Thu, 15 Sep 2022 at 10:55 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Now that we have lost the Queen, its time to reflect on her rein of
> England. Some articles are already popping up in the media, like the one
> below.  However, I would like to remind everyone of our special tribute to
> the Queen during her Coronation. The Austin-Healey 100 was in production
> and as a token to her newly garnered throne, BMC produced about 550 (620
> according to Bill Piggott) special AH100 cars painted in "Coronet Cream"
> The color lost popularity as time went on and many of the original cars
> ended up painted red.
>
> The first Coronet cream car was #140272, body 121, built in August 1953.
> I have found 85 cars painted this color in my Registry records-where are
> the rest? One of the Healey list folks, Joe Costa who was true to the Queen
> and his Healey, restored his car in CC. Hank
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Saying Britain?s Royal Family has a love of cars would be a bit of an
> understatement, with an eclectic car collection
> <https://www.hotcars.com/25-rare-classic-cars-owned-by-queen-elizabeth-ii/?utm_source=syndication> that
> included cars from Daimler, to Vauxhall, Rolls-Royce, Land Rover, *Jaguar*
> <https://www.hotcars.com/tag/jaguar/?utm_source=syndication> and *Bentley
> <https://www.hotcars.com/tag/bentley/?utm_source=syndication>*. However, the
> late Queen Elizabeth II herself stands out for being a royal auto enthusiast
> <https://www.hotcars.com/remembering-queen-elizabeth-ii-car-collection-true-gear-head/?utm_source=syndication> who
> liked to drive herself around, even if she never had a driver?s license!
> Heck, she even liked getting her hands dirty, having been trained as a
> mechanic in the Second World War
> <https://www.insider.com/photos-queen-elizabeth-mechanic-world-war-ii-2020-4?utm_source=syndication>
> .
>
> <https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/remembering-the-times-car-makers-built-special-models-for-queen-elizabeth-ii/ar-AA11N1Z3?ocid=msedgntp&cvid=f76f1a5b60594eda847b8e2227149557&fullscreen=true#image=1>[image:
> Remembering The Times Car Makers Built Special Models For Queen Elizabeth
> II]
> <https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/remembering-the-times-car-makers-built-special-models-for-queen-elizabeth-ii/ar-AA11N1Z3?ocid=msedgntp&cvid=f76f1a5b60594eda847b8e2227149557&fullscreen=true#image=1>
> Remembering The Times Car Makers Built Special Models For Queen Elizabeth
> II? Provided by HotCars
>
> Knowing that, it makes sense that car manufacturers have placed such high
> importance on the royal patronage
> <https://www.hotcars.com/prince-philip-helped-design-his-funerals-land-rover-hearse/?utm_source=syndication>.
> While the Queen?s personal favourite brand is said to be Land Rover
> <https://www.hotcars.com/land-rover-defender-1990-110/?utm_source=syndication> (having
> owned over 30), that hasn?t stopped Britain?s finest from preparing cars
> for her, and in her tribute.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 15 09:38:51 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 11:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
References: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>

Listers and Hank
Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color. 
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 15 10:00:05 2022
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (null) (null)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 12:00:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>
References: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F21DB7B-52A7-4458-997E-C231AD7B3384@yahoo.com>

#923 with a 11/30/1953 build is coronet cream.  

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 15, 2022, at 11:42 AM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Listers and Hank
> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color. 
> Perry
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com
> 

From bgdrab at redzone.ca  Thu Sep 15 12:46:25 2022
From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 18:46:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <8F21DB7B-52A7-4458-997E-C231AD7B3384@yahoo.com>
References: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>
 <8F21DB7B-52A7-4458-997E-C231AD7B3384@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <YQBPR0101MB584845D9D13FAC6896717B02AB499@YQBPR0101MB5848.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I think this article will help. It takes a bit of digging but there is a section on the explanation of Jensen numbering.
Good Luck

The%20100/Austin%20 Healey%20-%20 Jensen%20 Motors%20Contract%20-%20The%20 Jensen%20Museum.html  

Brian Drab
Delta B.C.


-----Original Message-----
From: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com> 
Sent: September 15, 2022 9:00 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

#923 with a 11/30/1953 build is coronet cream.  

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 15, 2022, at 11:42 AM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Listers and Hank
> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color. 
> Perry
> 

From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Sep 15 13:02:40 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 19:02:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: RE:  100 Body Numbers
Message-ID: <3b4b224b7f1e0adf54bad070ffc9931b67d006d8@webmail>



	-----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net
To: "Perry Small"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 12:01:55PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

 All-unfortunately, due to Jensen shipping bodies in no particular
order, it is basically difficult, if not impossible, to look up a car
without the chassis number plate assigned by Austin. I have all of the
numerical chassis numbers from the 1953-54 production but only about
300 body numbers associated with those cars. 
 I wrote a long explanation of the various Coronet Cream cars I have
on the list, including Alan's 793, chassis#148521 restored by Rich
Chrysler and built 11-26-53. However my email supplier dumped my
draft, and it contained quite a lot of information lost. I will say
that some CC cars carried bodies 1274, 1535, 1611 and 1651 as late as
January 1954. It is possible that the apron that Perry has was from a
CC car based on the paint shown but without the chassis, I am unable
to find it. Needless to say, the car is now NLS(no longer survives)
having landed in Perry parts bin. 
 There are some enthusiasts that "question" the Coronet Cream paint
theme related to the Queen's Coronation, and I am looking further into
that, even though that note has been published in many books there is
still controversary. Some may also believe that the last BJ8 car
finished, painted in Metallic Golden Beige, is a modern day
representation of CC...Hank 

	----------------------------------------- From: "Perry Small via
Healeys"
 To: "Austin Healey"
 Cc:
 Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 8:57:22AM
 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

 Listers and Hank
 Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with
corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo
shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the
Coronet creame paint color.
 Perry


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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 15 13:28:03 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 15:28:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <YQBPR0101MB584845D9D13FAC6896717B02AB499@YQBPR0101MB5848.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>
 <8F21DB7B-52A7-4458-997E-C231AD7B3384@yahoo.com>
 <YQBPR0101MB584845D9D13FAC6896717B02AB499@YQBPR0101MB5848.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <1f8ecd2c-779c-7cc1-466b-4d369e1d7084@earthlink.net>

Here's the URL to the Jensen article: 
https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/15/22 2:46 PM, Brian Drab via Healeys wrote:
> I think this article will help. It takes a bit of digging but there is a section on the explanation of Jensen numbering.
> Good Luck
>
> The%20100/Austin%20 Healey%20-%20 Jensen%20 Motors%20Contract%20-%20The%20 Jensen%20Museum.html
>
> Brian Drab
> Delta B.C.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com>
> Sent: September 15, 2022 9:00 AM
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
>
> #923 with a 11/30/1953 build is coronet cream.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Sep 15, 2022, at 11:42 AM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?Listers and Hank
>> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color.
>> Perry
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Sep 15 14:27:14 2022
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 16:27:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <YQBPR0101MB584845D9D13FAC6896717B02AB499@YQBPR0101MB5848.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <29C637E3-D825-4D60-991B-44BCBDAC598E@aol.com>
 <8F21DB7B-52A7-4458-997E-C231AD7B3384@yahoo.com>
 <YQBPR0101MB584845D9D13FAC6896717B02AB499@YQBPR0101MB5848.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <000301d8c941$8aee4d40$a0cae7c0$@verizon.net>

I cleaned up the URL a little so you can access the article easier.

https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/


John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Drab via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2022 2:46 PM
To: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com>; Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

I think this article will help. It takes a bit of digging but there is a section on the explanation of Jensen numbering.
Good Luck

The%20100/Austin%20 Healey%20-%20 Jensen%20 Motors%20Contract%20-%20The%20 Jensen%20Museum.html  

Brian Drab
Delta B.C.


-----Original Message-----
From: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com>
Sent: September 15, 2022 9:00 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

#923 with a 11/30/1953 build is coronet cream.  

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 15, 2022, at 11:42 AM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Listers and Hank
> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color. 
> Perry
> 
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net



From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Sep 15 15:18:39 2022
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 17:18:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: RE:  100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <3b4b224b7f1e0adf54bad070ffc9931b67d006d8@webmail>
References: <3b4b224b7f1e0adf54bad070ffc9931b67d006d8@webmail>
Message-ID: <01cf01d8c948$bb15b560$31412020$@rr.com>

The link to the Jensen story, in the BJ8 section, quotes me in a couple places, but incorrectly.  BJ8s did not have a ?Jensen number? on the ?brightwork?, but did have a number stamped in three places by Jensen:  
On the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator

On the driver?s side (in reference to LHD cars) bonnet flange where the hinge is bolted

On the underside of the boot lid where the prop rod attaches.

 

The number begins with a letter, followed by one, two, or three numerical digits.  The earliest Phase 1 cars have the letter ?E?.  Each letter could accommodate 999 bodies before switching to the next letter.  The latest Phase 2 BJ8s had the letter V.  Interestingly, the very last car, 43026, has only the number ?2? and no letter.

 

I have been documenting BJ8 Batch/Body numbers for many years and currently have them for 2,929 cars.   I?ve only been documenting the Jensen numbers against the chassis and body numbers for a few years, but have them for 324 cars to date.  I would like to have more, and would have if everyone with a BJ8 would send them to me.

 

Hank:  I am not sure what is meant by ?The last BJ8 car finished, painted in Metallic Golden Beige??  The highest chassis number of the Metallic Golden Beige cars is 43025, which is the one in the photograph with UK registration OAC 656F, but it was not the last MGB car completed on the production line.  I document 15 others that were completed later than 16 Nov 67.    The actual last BJ8 finished on the line was 43000, a BRG car completed on 11 Jan 68.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at  Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2022 3:03 PM
To: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] FW: RE: 100 Body Numbers

 

 

-----------------------------------------

From: gradea1 at charter.net
To: "Perry Small"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 12:01:55PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

All-unfortunately, due to Jensen shipping bodies in no particular order, it is basically difficult, if not impossible, to look up a car without the chassis number plate assigned by Austin. I have all of the numerical chassis numbers from the 1953-54 production but only about 300 body numbers associated with those cars. 

 

I wrote a long explanation of the various Coronet Cream cars I have on the list, including Alan's 793, chassis#148521 restored by Rich Chrysler and built 11-26-53. However my email supplier dumped my draft, and it contained quite a lot of information lost. I will say that some CC cars carried bodies 1274, 1535, 1611 and 1651 as late as January 1954. It is possible that the apron that Perry has was from a CC car based on the paint shown but without the chassis, I am unable to find it. Needless to say, the car is now NLS(no longer survives) having landed in Perry parts bin.

 

There are some enthusiasts that "question" the Coronet Cream paint theme related to the Queen's Coronation, and I am looking further into that, even though that note has been published in many books there is still controversary. Some may also believe that the last BJ8 car finished, painted in Metallic Golden Beige, is a modern day representation of CC...Hank

 

-----------------------------------------

From: "Perry Small via Healeys"
To: "Austin Healey"
Cc:
Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 8:57:22AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers

Listers and Hank
Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color.
Perry



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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 15 19:04:05 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2022 21:04:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <000301d8c941$8aee4d40$a0cae7c0$@verizon.net>
References: <000301d8c941$8aee4d40$a0cae7c0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4A254768-6E2B-4CD4-B8C4-906B98CF4831@aol.com>

Thanks for your help, John, Hank and others
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 15, 2022, at 4:27 PM, ahbn6 at verizon.net wrote:
> 
> ?I cleaned up the URL a little so you can access the article easier.
> 
> https://www.jensenmuseum.org/austin-healey-jensen-motors-contract/
> 
> 
> John Sims
> www.healey6.com
> Matawan, NJ
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Drab via Healeys
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2022 2:46 PM
> To: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com>; Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
> 
> I think this article will help. It takes a bit of digging but there is a section on the explanation of Jensen numbering.
> Good Luck
> 
> The%20100/Austin%20 Healey%20-%20 Jensen%20 Motors%20Contract%20-%20The%20 Jensen%20Museum.html  
> 
> Brian Drab
> Delta B.C.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (null) (null) <ah53 at yahoo.com>
> Sent: September 15, 2022 9:00 AM
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
> 
> #923 with a 11/30/1953 build is coronet cream.  
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 15, 2022, at 11:42 AM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Listers and Hank
>> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet creame paint color. 
>> Perry
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net
> 
> 


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 15 21:01:24 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2022 11:01:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] FW: RE: 100 Body Numbers
In-Reply-To: <3b4b224b7f1e0adf54bad070ffc9931b67d006d8@webmail>
References: <3b4b224b7f1e0adf54bad070ffc9931b67d006d8@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+opURaewVjksrXmFx6kBwR4f+jH3AMELNFgBf5UBHSJw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Hank -

Just a slight clarification, Rich did have my car and was going to restore
it, but then sadly, passed away.  It is actually Michael Salter that did
the full restoration of #793.

Cheers,

Alan

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:54 AM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: gradea1 at charter.net
> To: "Perry Small"
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 12:01:55PM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
>
> All-unfortunately, due to Jensen shipping bodies in no particular order,
> it is basically difficult, if not impossible, to look up a car without the
> chassis number plate assigned by Austin. I have all of the numerical
> chassis numbers from the 1953-54 production but only about 300 body numbers
> associated with those cars.
>
> I wrote a long explanation of the various Coronet Cream cars I have on the
> list, including Alan's 793, chassis#148521 restored by Rich Chrysler and
> built 11-26-53. However my email supplier dumped my draft, and it contained
> quite a lot of information lost. I will say that some CC cars carried
> bodies 1274, 1535, 1611 and 1651 as late as January 1954. It is possible
> that the apron that Perry has was from a CC car based on the paint shown
> but without the chassis, I am unable to find it. Needless to say, the car
> is now NLS(no longer survives) having landed in Perry parts bin.
>
> There are some enthusiasts that "question" the Coronet Cream paint theme
> related to the Queen's Coronation, and I am looking further into that, even
> though that note has been published in many books there is still
> controversary. Some may also believe that the last BJ8 car finished,
> painted in Metallic Golden Beige, is a modern day representation of
> CC...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Perry Small via Healeys"
> To: "Austin Healey"
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday September 15 2022 8:57:22AM
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 Body Numbers
>
> Listers and Hank
> Anyone have a listing of the Jenson stamped body numbers with
> corresponding build dates. Going through a bunch of body parts, photo shows
> the front bumper valance, that might have a connection to the Coronet
> creame paint color.
> Perry
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From rubino at truespeed.ca  Fri Sep 16 07:59:48 2022
From: rubino at truespeed.ca (rubino at truespeed.ca)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2022 13:59:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] top
Message-ID: <em3af1b0f2-0aeb-4fb9-9bfb-0cfee7c5f082@p6520f>

I have a robbin's top that hasn't been on the car in 6 or 7 years. 
Rather than leaving it folded up in the car I have had it hanging in the 
basement (dry and warm) for several years.

I know that the next time I put it on the car I will have to leave it in 
the sun for a while to make it easier to stretch.

However is there something, preservative?? that I should be putting on 
it as it hangs on the wall? Or is it OK as is?
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 16 08:39:07 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2022 07:39:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] top
In-Reply-To: <em3af1b0f2-0aeb-4fb9-9bfb-0cfee7c5f082@p6520f>
References: <em3af1b0f2-0aeb-4fb9-9bfb-0cfee7c5f082@p6520f>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89OMvNhM4CVRwvBev8vF9Q8KB5+6C3i2O+3gzc2o9yGXw@mail.gmail.com>

I would think it will be ok if not in direct sunlight.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022, 7:21 AM Dr C A Rubino via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a robbin's top that hasn't been on the car in 6 or 7 years. Rather
> than leaving it folded up in the car I have had it hanging in the basement
> (dry and warm) for several years.
>
> I know that the next time I put it on the car I will have to leave it in
> the sun for a while to make it easier to stretch.
>
> However is there something, preservative?? that I should be putting on it
> as it hangs on the wall? Or is it OK as is?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Sep 16 15:05:27 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2022 21:05:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 books for sale
References: <1050647598.4903075.1663362327381.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1050647598.4903075.1663362327381@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Listeres!I have 4 automotive books for sale.Great Classic Cars of the World. ?Photos by Hans Georg Isenbery. ?193 pgs. ?Published by Chartwell Books Inc. ?No date.The New Illustrated Encyclopedia of Automobiles by David Burgess Wise. ?352 pgs. ?Published by The Wellfleet Press in 1992.The Automobile by Gary Reyes. ?144 pgs. ?Published by the Mallard Press in 1990.All are in excellent to mint condition.
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Sep 16 15:07:21 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2022 21:07:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Correction!!!
References: <1824660358.4916377.1663362441886.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1824660358.4916377.1663362441886@mail.yahoo.com>

I just sent out an email prematurely on books for sale. ?Please ignore it. ?I will be sending a corrected version soon.Keith
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 11 16:51:08 2022
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2022 22:51:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <A0DDCD89-06B4-4FC3-ADDA-10E2496EDA40@gmail.com>
References: <62300f80-6fce-6fd7-f4a0-1251af934781@jps.net>
 <A0DDCD89-06B4-4FC3-ADDA-10E2496EDA40@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR07MB6514869048EB03357F7DF5FCA4459@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

A similar thing happened to me when I replaced the pump road side. A friend removed the gas cap and blow into the filler pipe. That was all it needed to get fuel into the pump and the car started.


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Ricchardd Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2022 3:25 PM
To: Rory Janes <outfitter at jps.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

Sounds like the fuel pumped worked as it should.  The clicking means it?s pumping.  When the fuel line is fully pressurized, the pump stops pumping (clicking).


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>


On Sep 11, 2022, at 2:56 PM, Rory Janes via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Here is a fuel pump question for a BJ8 3000 MK3:
After sitting for several months we started -  cleaned up the car, then after washing the next start attempt seemed
like it was fuel starved. The usual click of the fuel pump then pulsed very rapidly for a few seconds - then stopped.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Rory
1964 BJ8



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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Sep 19 09:30:45 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2022 15:30:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 4 book for sale
References: <1860663066.5689878.1663601445174.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1860663066.5689878.1663601445174@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Listers!I have 4 automotive books for sale. ?Sold only as a lot.Great Classic Cars of the World. ?Photos by Hans Georg Isenbery. ?193 pgs. ?Published by Chartwell Books Inc. ?No date.The New Illustrated Encyclopedia of Automobiles by David Burgess Wise. ?352 pgs. ?Published by The Wellfleet Press in 1992.The Automobile by Gary Reyes. ?144 pgs. ?Published by the Mallard Press in 1990.Porsche by Mike McCarthy. ?192 pgs. ?Published by Gallery Books in 1986.All are in excellent to mint condition.Buyer pays shipping from 23602Buy all 4 for $60. First come, first served.Keith
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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Sep 26 19:30:15 2022
From: ahmg at aol.com (KENNETH FLEMNG)
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2022 21:30:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for Sale
References: <B6CBEE50-9BDC-4F5C-8E2A-F945EC8ABED2.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B6CBEE50-9BDC-4F5C-8E2A-F945EC8ABED2@aol.com>

?
?I have the following items for sale.
Please  contact me off list if interested.

New BJ8  full dark blue Leather seat kit. Still in original package UK

BN1 OE right front fender 

100 original fan blade(2)

BN1 style 2 side curtain /needs restoration 


TR6 rare dual hardtop boot cover(2)

Ken

Sent from my iPhone

From healey53 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 01:48:58 2022
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 03:48:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
Message-ID: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is the forum up and running.   I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.

Joe
#923
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Sep 27 02:19:53 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 09:19:53 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I got yours?..

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joseph Costa
Sent: 27 September 2022 08:49
To: Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] No mail

 

Is the forum up and running.   I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.

 

Joe

#923

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From healey53 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 27 04:33:31 2022
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 06:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>

Great, thanks!

On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 4:19 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> I got yours?..
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Joseph
> Costa
> *Sent:* 27 September 2022 08:49
> *To:* Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] No mail
>
>
>
> Is the forum up and running.   I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> #923
>
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From ahmg at aol.com  Tue Sep 27 07:51:28 2022
From: ahmg at aol.com (KENNETH FLEMNG)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 09:51:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for Sale
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8E20CC2D-21C3-4B1E-89DB-F83F5EB75A8A@aol.com>

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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Sep 27 09:22:58 2022
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 08:22:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>

Please let me know if you received this email. I have not been able to
access the forum for several months.

Harold

On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 3:42 AM Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Great, thanks!
>
> On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 4:19 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>
>> I got yours?..
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Joseph
>> Costa
>> *Sent:* 27 September 2022 08:49
>> *To:* Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] No mail
>>
>>
>>
>> Is the forum up and running.   I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> #923
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 27 09:29:21 2022
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 15:29:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1148051199.1334321.1664292561088@mail.yahoo.com>

I got it Harold
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives 

    On Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 11:25:52 a.m. EDT, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:  
 
 Please let me know if you received this email. I have not been able to access the forum for several months.
Harold
On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 3:42 AM Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com> wrote:

Great, thanks!?

On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 4:19 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:


I got yours?..

Simon

?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joseph Costa
Sent: 27 September 2022 08:49
To: Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] No mail

?

Is the forum up and running. ? I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.

?

Joe

#923

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com

  
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Tue Sep 27 09:30:34 2022
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 15:30:34 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <635c1735-81fa-4dea-905b-52214ed4e13a@me.com>

I think it's just one of those lulls. Hopefully, folks out enjoying their cars as the list has given all the answers and all of the cars are running without problems!!?HA!!!Steven KingsburyBN1On Sep 27, 2022, at 1:05 AM, Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com> wrote:Is the forum up and running. ? I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.Joe#923_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 27 10:06:57 2022
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 09:06:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <07A511899401458190F203436B3392DB@MargaretPC>


Got it.  

              The Other Len
1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII BJ8
      HBJ8L39031   221,476 miles
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Harold Manifold 
  To: Joseph Costa 
  Cc: Healeys at Autox 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 8:22 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] No mail


  Please let me know if you received this email. I have not been able to access the forum for several months.


  Harold


  On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 3:42 AM Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com> wrote:

    Great, thanks! 



    On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 4:19 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

      I got yours?..

      Simon



      From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joseph Costa
      Sent: 27 September 2022 08:49
      To: Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
      Subject: [Healeys] No mail



      Is the forum up and running.   I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.



      Joe

      #923

    _______________________________________________
    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Suggested annual donation  $12.75

    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

    Healeys at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

    Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net




------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

  Healeys at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 27 10:10:23 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 12:10:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d8d249$ece62160$c6b26420$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CADigPhTv1-cpgSFkJYDT-GV4SXLOHOgpkBXYXUom++CLqSMA7Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFP1XCDvm3CpxRUcm6_VGRx_FCyVaYeE=mtP7MXFOWc3r28zdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ef88c826-33e3-2891-4d1e-bd199b5932f3@earthlink.net>

Harold,

I received it.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/27/22 11:22 AM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Please let me know if you received this email. I have not been able to 
> access the forum for several months.
>
> Harold
>
> On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 3:42 AM Joseph Costa <healey53 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Great, thanks!
>
>     On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 4:19 AM
>     <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>
>         I got yours?..
>
>         Simon
>
>         *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
>         *Joseph Costa
>         *Sent:* 27 September 2022 08:49
>         *To:* Healeys at Autox <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         *Subject:* [Healeys] No mail
>
>         Is the forum up and running. ? I haven't seen any threads
>         since mid Sept.
>
>         Joe
>
>         #923
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Sep 27 12:13:08 2022
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 12:13:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] No mail
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhTxJwvNsS5wRPFzv49BBp+SasRNgjc04cD96vy_xdT-GQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38d144a-6fe1-0034-2d14-7770167891c5@bradakis.com>


On 9/27/22 1:48 AM, Joseph Costa wrote:
> Is the forum up and running. ? I haven't seen any threads since mid Sept.
>

One can always check one of the archive options, to see if mail is 
getting sent to the list.? See links below if on the realtime list, not 
sure if I put them at the top or bottom of the digests.

mjb.



From ggilliam at usol.com  Tue Sep 27 13:52:21 2022
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2022 15:52:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb Linkage
Message-ID: <97a13cdc008ccb9ff73ea0919d0de6f8@usol.com>

Hello Listers,
I am trying to assemble a pair of HD8 or HD6 carbs from a box of parts 
accumulated over the years. To aid in this endeavor I need a few 
pictures of properly assembled carbs and particularly the necessary 
control linkages...there are so many possible combinations of parts, but 
probably only one correct way...so I need a little help.
  As the garage work season is here in the Great Lakes area this will be 
an (I hope) interesting diversion.
Thanks for your indulgence,
Gordy  Longbridge BN4, but a for play 29K engine also

From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 04:35:33 2022
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 06:35:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tops(Hood)
In-Reply-To: <E853C421-FE56-4720-BD3A-138C1EBBCEF7@hxcore.ol>
References: <E853C421-FE56-4720-BD3A-138C1EBBCEF7@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <CDF32E4F-72FF-43F0-9A37-506F544EBCAC@hxcore.ol>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 16:24:33 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 18:24:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>

This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive
with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was
applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was
fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it
did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was
quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and
remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire
just a little as I came to the end of the trip.

* POSSIBLE CAUSES*

1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1
cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug
misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do
fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the
coil warms up

3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees
and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.

4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel
supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get
worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full
throttle. This was absolutely not the case.


Any ideas folks?
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Sep 28 16:51:45 2022
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 08:51:45 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005201d8d38c$e28419e0$a78c4da0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Mike

 

I had a similar situation in the BN3.

 

Tuned and reset everything multiple times and it just wouldn?t go away.

 

After some weeks, eventually tracked the problem to the modern inline fuel filter that I had installed. Went back to how it left the Donald Healey Motor Company and problem disappeared.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, 29 September 2022 8:25 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

 

This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire. 

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.

 POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.

4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.

 

Any ideas folks?

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Sep 28 17:02:06 2022
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 16:02:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiMJzPW797W4Yt3iOHjN9WCmK6dUA=u2a-kmuQ8EDpKo2w@mail.gmail.com>

The real mystery is why did it stop after you refuelled ?
Was there enough time for something hot to cool down - but that does not
really explain theinitial missing when cold.
Presume that you have given the cap and rotor a good visual ... tracking
can have weird effects.
Plug leads ?
rg

On Wed, Sep 28, 2022 at 3:46 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>
> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>
> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>
> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>
> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top
> overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>
> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was
> applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>
> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was
> fully heated up.
>
> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it
> did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
>
> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was
> quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and
> remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire
> just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>
> * POSSIBLE CAUSES*
>
> 1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1
> cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug
> misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
>
> 2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do
> fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the
> coil warms up
>
> 3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees
> and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
>
> 4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel
> supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get
> worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full
> throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>
>
> Any ideas folks?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 17:25:14 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 19:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <E88ED01D-D1F9-4B97-8262-201597978AF2@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <E88ED01D-D1F9-4B97-8262-201597978AF2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKR5-E1pt-XAO+46dnXHrYxPphZVFKLmWhu7N5QaovTAw@mail.gmail.com>

Excellent suggestions Jim, thank you.

M

On Wed., Sep. 28, 2022, 7:22 p.m. Rjhco, <rjhco459 at gmail.com> wrote:

> It is not fuel.  It is an intermittent ground.  Check the ground wire
> inside of the distributor and on the coil. If no luck, replace high tension
> from coil to distributor.
> Also, check ground from engine to chassis.  Do you have woven wire
> ground?  They rust internally.
> Best regards,
> Jim
>
> On Sep 28, 2022, at 5:35 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>
> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>
> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>
> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>
> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top
> overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>
> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was
> applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>
> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was
> fully heated up.
>
> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it
> did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
>
> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was
> quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and
> remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire
> just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>
> * POSSIBLE CAUSES*
>
> 1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1
> cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug
> misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
>
> 2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do
> fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the
> coil warms up
>
> 3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees
> and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
>
> 4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel
> supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get
> worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full
> throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>
>
> Any ideas folks?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco459 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 28 17:45:30 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 16:45:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <33babb6c-e8f9-db38-5896-3cb1eedaf767@comcast.net>

Distributor cap shorting out.


On 9/28/2022 3:24 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> **
>
> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>
> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>
> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>
> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>
> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top 
> overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>
> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was 
> applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>
> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was 
> fully heated up.
>
> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire 
> although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
>
> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it 
> was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely 
> and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to 
> misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>
> _POSSIBLE CAUSES_
>
> 1.Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 
> cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug 
> misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
>
> 2.Coil ?In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail 
> they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the 
> coil warms up
>
> 3.Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees 
> and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
>
> 4.Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel 
> supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would 
> get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of 
> full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>
>
> Any ideas folks?
>
>
>
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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 28 17:55:18 2022
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 23:55:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiMJzPW797W4Yt3iOHjN9WCmK6dUA=u2a-kmuQ8EDpKo2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiMJzPW797W4Yt3iOHjN9WCmK6dUA=u2a-kmuQ8EDpKo2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2103779381.2148904.1664409318717@mail.yahoo.com>

 Pull the plugs just to be sure it's not isolate. ?Maybe a bad plug wire? Anyway that's where I would start
Joe #923
    On Wednesday, September 28, 2022, 07:43:30 PM EDT, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:  
 
 The real mystery is why did it stop after you refuelled ?Was there enough time for something hot to cool down - but that does not really explain theinitial missing when cold.Presume that you have given the cap and rotor a good visual ... tracking can have weird effects. 
Plug leads ?rg

On Wed, Sep 28, 2022 at 3:46 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:




This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along wellin top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when fullthrottle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when theengine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of themisfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttlesettings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and uponstarting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completelyand remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfirejust a little as I came to the end of the trip.

?POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.?????Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seemsto be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.?????Coil ?? Inmy experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to failas they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.?????Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set atexactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in theshop.

4.?????Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuelbecause of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problemwould get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill offull throttle. This was absolutely not the case.




Any ideas folks?




_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Sep 28 18:48:20 2022
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 20:48:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801d8d39d$2bbd6bb0$83384310$@sympatico.ca>

Mike,  my first thought was coil, as I have heard they can fail gradually.  For the small amount of work it is, I?d swap it out and see if it makes a difference if for no other reason than to eliminate that possibility.

 

Best, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: September 28, 2022 6:25 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

 

This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire. 

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.

 POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.

4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.

 

Any ideas folks?

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Sep 28 19:35:12 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 21:35:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
References: <11EDCC79-58BF-4B47-A142-AD9B910F46F6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7D56BD26-97C0-4C2D-AF7B-BB4200C3D03E@aol.com>



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Date: September 28, 2022 at 8:42:39 PM EDT
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
> 
> ?Michael
> Not sure what plug / coil wires you have on the car but it is a fairly common problem the develop poor connections at the wire ends on the cap and coil. Sounds like a weak spark. The spark plug color being about the same on all 4 plugs would lead me to the coil / distributor wire. 
> Perry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Sep 28, 2022, at 8:20 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> Excellent suggestions Jim, thank you. 
>> 
>> M
>> 
>>> On Wed., Sep. 28, 2022, 7:22 p.m. Rjhco, <rjhco459 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> It is not fuel.  It is an intermittent ground.  Check the ground wire inside of the distributor and on the coil. If no luck, replace high tension from coil to distributor.
>>> Also, check ground from engine to chassis.  Do you have woven wire ground?  They rust internally.
>>> Best regards,
>>> Jim
>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 28, 2022, at 5:35 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> ?
>>>> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>>>> 
>>>> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>>>> 
>>>> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>>>> 
>>>> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>>>> 
>>>> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>>>> 
>>>> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>>>> 
>>>> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was fully heated up.
>>>> 
>>>> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
>>>> 
>>>> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>>>> 
>>>>  POSSIBLE CAUSES
>>>> 
>>>> 1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
>>>> 2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up
>>>> 3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
>>>> 4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Any ideas folks?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco459 at gmail.com
>>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Sep 28 20:50:32 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 02:50:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
Message-ID: <711845fa02582422bffc5e530680e6ae0ddb0817@webmail>

Michael- My guess is dirty fuel. Ethanol? Dirt specs in float bowls?
If ethanol is used with "pink" Stabil it will create small black
particles in the float bowls and cause backfiring. If used with clear
gas its not an issue. If you use ethanol fuel exclusively purchase the
"blue" Stabil...and yes I would use Stabil and possibly a fuel cleaner
to get rid of any water. Two cents from Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday September 28 2022 3:43:57PM
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

	 This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles. 

	 Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went: 

	 Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.


	 Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference. 

	 Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top
overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring. 

	 Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle
was applied for 10 - 15 seconds. 

	 Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine
was fully heated up. 

	 I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire
although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle
settings. 

	 After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off
it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost
completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it
started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip. 

	  POSSIBLE CAUSES 

	 1.  Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than
1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug
misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey
appearance. 

	 2.  Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they
do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse
as the coil warms up 

	 3.  Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60
degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the
shop. 

	 4.  Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a
fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem
would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a
hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case. 

	 Any ideas folks?


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 28 21:34:16 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 11:34:16 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition
switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
switch itself.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, 29 Sep 2022 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>
> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>
> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>
> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>
> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top
> overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>
> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was
> applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>
> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was
> fully heated up.
>
> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it
> did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
>
> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was
> quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and
> remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire
> just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>
> * POSSIBLE CAUSES*
>
> 1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1
> cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug
> misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
>
> 2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do
> fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the
> coil warms up
>
> 3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees
> and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
>
> 4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel
> supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get
> worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full
> throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>
>
> Any ideas folks?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 29 00:03:30 2022
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2022 23:03:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00a901d8d3c9$33966090$9ac321b0$@sbcglobal.net>

Check the pin inside the distributor that transfers electricity from the coil wire to the rotor to ascertain that it is not sticking and moves up and down freely.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2022 3:25 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

 

This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire. 

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.

 POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.

4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.

 

Any ideas folks?

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 29 02:31:16 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 01:31:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>

re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor 
wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it 
grounds the coil primary so no spark.


On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Hi Michael -
>
> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the 
> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>
> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at 
> the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get 
> weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should 
> run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the 
> distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from 
> underneath the master switch itself.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2022 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter 
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     **
>
>     This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
>
>     Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
>
>     Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
>
>     Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
>
>     Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top
>     overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
>
>     Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle
>     was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
>
>     Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine
>     was fully heated up.
>
>     I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire
>     although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle
>     settings.
>
>     After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off
>     it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost
>     completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which
>     it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
>
>     _POSSIBLE CAUSES_
>
>     1.Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1
>     cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1
>     plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey
>     appearance.
>
>     2.Coil ?In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do
>     fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse
>     as the coil warms up
>
>     3.Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60
>     degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in
>     the shop.
>
>     4.Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a
>     fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem
>     would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing
>     a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
>
>
>     Any ideas folks?
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 03:06:36 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 17:06:36 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
themself  ...

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
   anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
   anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
   anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
   suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
   connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan


On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire
> ..."
>
> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>
>
> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> Hi Michael -
>
> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition
> switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>
> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
> switch itself.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 05:53:47 2022
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 12:53:47 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael -
>
> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
> themself  ...
>
>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>
> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>
>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>    connections)
>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>
> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>
>    - replace rotor
>    - replace dizzy cap
>
> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>> wire ..."
>>
>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>
>>
>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>
>> Hi Michael -
>>
>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>
>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
>> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>> switch itself.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 07:09:07 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 21:09:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad
interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

> Alan
>
> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
> these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
> run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>
> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael -
>>
>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>> themself  ...
>>
>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel
>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel
>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>
>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>
>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>    connections)
>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>
>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>
>>    - replace rotor
>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>
>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
>> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>> wire ..."
>>>
>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Michael -
>>>
>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>
>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
>>> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>> switch itself.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 07:38:15 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 09:38:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of
the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of
filling the tank.
Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
Totally baffled.
Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi John -
>
> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad
> interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan
>>
>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
>> these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
>> run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>
>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael -
>>>
>>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>>> themself  ...
>>>
>>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>>
>>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>>
>>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>>    connections)
>>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>>
>>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>>
>>>    - replace rotor
>>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>>
>>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this
>>> would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire ..."
>>>>
>>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Michael -
>>>>
>>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>>
>>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at
>>>> the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>>> switch itself.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey100m at me.com  Thu Sep 29 07:49:20 2022
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 09:49:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need 100 Grill & surround
Message-ID: <9488A035-102C-438A-9FDF-D8C9DC298BFC@me.com>

Him I?m in need of a very good to excellent original Healey 100 Grill and possibly a surround.
Any one have one that they would be willing to part with?

Randy Hicks

From healey100s at live.com  Thu Sep 29 08:15:07 2022
From: healey100s at live.com (Don Anglesey)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 14:15:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
Don


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.
Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
Totally baffled.
Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com<mailto:ah100tech at gmail.com>> wrote:
Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ...

  *   whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
  *   whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
  *   whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
  *   somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues
Given this I'd check (as a priority):

  *   Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
  *   primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
  *   motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
  *   loose wires in the dizzy
  *   loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

  *   replace rotor
  *   replace dizzy cap
I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Sep 29 09:31:37 2022
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 15:31:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent.Gary Hodson
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Sep 29 10:30:59 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 17:30:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Sep 29 10:31:40 2022
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 09:31:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCCO51ObEYaVe9E1hFEo6NMsM0JHoKH9n0eQ1PMON8S+rw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,

My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I tried
to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle on my grease gun is too large
to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a narrow nozzle or a
narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints and used the grease
fittings that came with the new joints. Should the grease nipples (zerk
fitting) be changed to the longer ones?

Thanks... Harold
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 29 10:49:53 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 12:49:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Grille
References: <03072C10-4E29-485B-A5DA-69A13B33CAF0.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <03072C10-4E29-485B-A5DA-69A13B33CAF0@aol.com>

Randy
One available. Needs some attention. 
Perry
healeyguy at aol.com

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Sent from my iPhone

From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 29 11:29:12 2022
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 17:29:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCCO51ObEYaVe9E1hFEo6NMsM0JHoKH9n0eQ1PMON8S+rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCCO51ObEYaVe9E1hFEo6NMsM0JHoKH9n0eQ1PMON8S+rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR07MB6514CCA0D6E9345FE011C71FA4579@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Yes, I had to use a longer one.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 29, 2022, at 10:21 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hello,
> 
> My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I tried to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle on my grease gun is too large to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a narrow nozzle or a narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints and used the grease fittings that came with the new joints. Should the grease nipples (zerk fitting) be changed to the longer ones?
> 
> Thanks... Harold
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> 

From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Sep 29 11:47:50 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 17:47:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint
Message-ID: <0ddb09508859086d1eec713feef1f6a1ddcfe70c@webmail>

Harold-yes, longer as original...the replacements used cheap zerks and
the longer ones are difficult to find...use your original ones if you
did not discard them.
Moss shows the correct ones in the illustration- maybe they will send
you those for real. Hank
328-540 [1]  

	NIPPLE, grease BN1-BJ8 $1.79

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 29 2022 10:39:05AM
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint

 Hello, 
 My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I
tried to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle on my grease gun
is too large to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a
narrow nozzle or a narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints
and used the grease fittings that came with the new joints. Should the
grease nipples (zerk fitting) be changed to the longer ones? 
 Thanks... Harold 

  

Links:
------
[1] https://mossmotors.com/nipple-grease-2?assoc=78359

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 29 12:02:39 2022
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 11:02:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCCO51ObEYaVe9E1hFEo6NMsM0JHoKH9n0eQ1PMON8S+rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFP1XCCO51ObEYaVe9E1hFEo6NMsM0JHoKH9n0eQ1PMON8S+rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00df01d8d42d$aad767d0$00863770$@sbcglobal.net>

They are typically 1? long.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 9:32 AM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint

 

Hello,

 

My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I tried to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle on my grease gun is too large to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a narrow nozzle or a narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints and used the grease fittings that came with the new joints. Should the grease nipples (zerk fitting) be changed to the longer ones?

 

Thanks... Harold

 

 

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From ryan at jimryan.com  Thu Sep 29 13:24:06 2022
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 15:24:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYxgF+3WnHtzgFAjMbBMH1i3=PrabDENci-ZTSovg7zEaw@mail.gmail.com>

What happens if you don't turn the car off when you fill it up?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 11:07 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the
> tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic
> sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>
> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of
> the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>
> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>
> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result
> of filling the tank.
>
> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>
> Totally baffled.
>
> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>
>
>
> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hi John -
>
>
>
> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad
> interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
> these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
> run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Michael -
>
> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
> themself  ...
>
>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>
> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>
>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>    connections)
>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>
> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>
>    - replace rotor
>    - replace dizzy cap
>
> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire
> ..."
>
> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>
> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> Hi Michael -
>
>
>
> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition
> switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>
>
>
> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
> switch itself.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From alanwassermannc at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 14:11:34 2022
From: alanwassermannc at gmail.com (Alan Wasserman)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 16:11:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7A24A220-D6D2-43BF-98A8-8512DFD01D6A@gmail.com>

How old are your plug wires?  Any chance a few worn out wires be the origin?

Alan Wasserman
Alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com

> On Sep 28, 2022, at 6:24 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.
> 
> Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:
> 
> Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.
> 
> Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.
> 
> Power was not much affected and the car cruised along well in top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.
> 
> Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when full throttle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.
> 
> Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when the engine was fully heated up.
> 
> I could really do nothing to influence the rate of the misfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttle settings.
> 
> After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and upon starting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completely and remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfire just a little as I came to the end of the trip.
> 
>  POSSIBLE CAUSES
> 
> 1.      Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seems to be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1 plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.
> 2.      Coil ?  In my experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to fail as they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up
> 3.      Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set at exactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in the shop.
> 4.      Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuel because of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problem would get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill of full throttle. This was absolutely not the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas folks?
> 
> 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 14:38:36 2022
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 16:38:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.

I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the
> tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic
> sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>
> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of
> the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>
> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>
> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result
> of filling the tank.
>
> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>
> Totally baffled.
>
> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>
>
>
> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hi John -
>
>
>
> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad
> interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
> these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
> run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Michael -
>
> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
> themself  ...
>
>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>    anything related to fuel
>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>
> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>
>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>    connections)
>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>
> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>
>    - replace rotor
>    - replace dizzy cap
>
> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire
> ..."
>
> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>
> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> Hi Michael -
>
>
>
> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition
> switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>
>
>
> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
> switch itself.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 19:23:40 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 09:23:40 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used
high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that
fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.

On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
> tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
> engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
> got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
> fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
> once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
>
> I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
> searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
> I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
> fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the
>> tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic
>> sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>>
>> Don
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
>> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
>> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>>
>> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of
>> the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>>
>> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>>
>> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result
>> of filling the tank.
>>
>> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
>> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>>
>> Totally baffled.
>>
>> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Hi John -
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through
>> bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had
>> these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had
>> run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Michael -
>>
>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>> themself  ...
>>
>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel
>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>    anything related to fuel
>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>
>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>
>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>    connections)
>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>
>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>
>>    - replace rotor
>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>
>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would
>> either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>> wire ..."
>>
>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>
>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>
>> Hi Michael -
>>
>>
>>
>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>
>>
>>
>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
>> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>> switch itself.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 20:01:51 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 22:01:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in
the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.
I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red
herring" although it certainly is an odd one.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used
> high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that
> fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
>
> On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
>> tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
>> engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
>> got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
>> fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
>> once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
>>
>> I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
>> searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
>> I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
>> fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the
>>> tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic
>>> sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>>>
>>> Don
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>> Windows
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
>>> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
>>> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>>>
>>> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing
>>> of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>>>
>>> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>>>
>>> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result
>>> of filling the tank.
>>>
>>> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
>>> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>>>
>>> Totally baffled.
>>>
>>> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi John -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through
>>> bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that
>>> had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil
>>> had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Michael -
>>>
>>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>>> themself  ...
>>>
>>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>>
>>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>>
>>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>>    connections)
>>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>>
>>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>>
>>>    - replace rotor
>>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>>
>>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this
>>> would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>> wire ..."
>>>
>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>
>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Michael -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the
>>> coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>> switch itself.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>>
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>>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C01%7C%7C3bb4e4c79e0d4e042ed008daa2245124%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638000574102599481%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=7WVbSzbJjKWErISAvZVGU7oDswrSMzdWiblHgQAP1OE%3D&reserved=0>
>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 20:08:25 2022
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 22:08:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7hh0TFfww1UV-bPNYsEE+2hM69arcFmbZkB7kDPDCFag@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

You have to remember that when talking about problems with a
Healey the unlikely sometimes becomes probable.  If you haven't already
done so I would suggest that you drain and flush the tank either in situ or
out of the car.

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 10:02 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in
> the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.
> I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red
> herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
>
> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used
>> high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that
>> fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
>>
>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
>>> tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
>>> engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
>>> got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
>>> fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
>>> once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
>>>
>>> I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
>>> searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
>>> I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
>>> fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around
>>>> the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.
>>>> Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>>>>
>>>> Don
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>>> Windows
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
>>>> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
>>>> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>>>>
>>>> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing
>>>> of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>>>>
>>>> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>>>>
>>>> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a
>>>> result of filling the tank.
>>>>
>>>> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
>>>> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>>>>
>>>> Totally baffled.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
>>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi John -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through
>>>> bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that
>>>> had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil
>>>> had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Michael -
>>>>
>>>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>>>> themself  ...
>>>>
>>>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will
>>>>    exclude anything related to fuel
>>>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>>>
>>>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>>>
>>>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>>>    connections)
>>>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>>>
>>>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>>>
>>>>    - replace rotor
>>>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>>>
>>>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this
>>>> would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire ..."
>>>>
>>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>>
>>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Michael -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at
>>>> the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>>> switch itself.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C01%7C%7C3bb4e4c79e0d4e042ed008daa2245124%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638000574102443247%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=B8c53rJrcH5ky1hxI2ZF2jz%2BnC4R8qYG177PpeEGdaI%3D&reserved=0>
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>>>>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Sep 29 21:55:39 2022
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 03:55:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB4445214BBC5BF7987C47BAB9A5569@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Check for a pin hole in the fuel pickup tube.

Bill Lawrence
BN1#554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 2:01 AM
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.
I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.

On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.

I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don





Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.



Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.



On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Hi John -



Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"



Cheers,



Alan



On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com<mailto:ah100tech at gmail.com>> wrote:

Alan



Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.



On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ...

  *   whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
  *   whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
  *   whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
  *   somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

  *   Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
  *   primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
  *   motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
  *   loose wires in the dizzy
  *   loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

  *   replace rotor
  *   replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,



Alan



On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:

re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.


On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -



Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.



You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.



Best,



Alan



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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 21:59:52 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 11:59:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+=exd8jBe1G6TxQX+uvYSCfP6qinhYSv1BY7HjYoFaPA@mail.gmail.com>

If the bits are floating around in the tank sometimes they are away from
the pick up, other times they are stuck on the pickup.  It acts like a
little flapper valve that can float loose from time to time, and finds its
way back to the pickup as fuel is being drawn to the engine.  Good to use
an endoscope and check the tank.

I'm still leaning toward bad battery master or bad wire connection
somewhere.  Also if lights are dim, clean the battery contacts.

On Fri, Sep 30, 2022 at 10:02 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in
> the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.
> I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red
> herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
>
> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used
>> high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that
>> fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
>>
>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
>>> tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
>>> engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
>>> got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
>>> fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
>>> once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
>>>
>>> I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
>>> searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
>>> I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
>>> fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around
>>>> the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.
>>>> Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>>>>
>>>> Don
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>>> Windows
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
>>>> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
>>>> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>>>>
>>>> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing
>>>> of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>>>>
>>>> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>>>>
>>>> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a
>>>> result of filling the tank.
>>>>
>>>> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
>>>> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>>>>
>>>> Totally baffled.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
>>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi John -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through
>>>> bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that
>>>> had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil
>>>> had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Michael -
>>>>
>>>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>>>> themself  ...
>>>>
>>>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will
>>>>    exclude anything related to fuel
>>>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>>>
>>>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>>>
>>>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>>>    connections)
>>>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>>>
>>>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>>>
>>>>    - replace rotor
>>>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>>>
>>>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this
>>>> would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire ..."
>>>>
>>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>>
>>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Michael -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at
>>>> the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>>> switch itself.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Sep 29 22:41:09 2022
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2022 21:41:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ7O3Z58YEjEbdVVdpz7Q_9ovaggKrJBXLiwLQ2ksnPrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK57aopOM4-+8+-59CHyryiQk_OO4i_jVW5+v-pGFvAbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <77e2342e-cd47-6cec-8b0b-be47f9d1eee4@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkLUh25V-PH1cPPhZs+-ARzXYURu0b_4Dr2jpkzF5BHP=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLWWZq0YiWQFhr+YO7Bx1C6J0OWufA560Xd9eATYgTXWkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK5EzwLHKog17S3kvqCk5FcejjAMsrdtT8EAnuz8wY8Kw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKQgDNaD06mxvSdFXBHogvR=K-hnHzbz0Lg-VuETZZYNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA2PR06MB73537A571A161A69CBDE3C41FD579@SA2PR06MB7353.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6_Sb-YfQncdHFB2tajgnY_t--H+QYm0fM8+BPE1kWf8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkK61J8WqFWNuVjnAZBy5n1cnc7uDTQFt0fDKs98QYY9pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+eBN3GG+oPkr2u-wJAJkamFtcMeH7tBdp7ht7DHwyTTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+YAjCp5pEhk86p98E4ckjQxWNZE=p8JN-tOkywvGb507A@mail.gmail.com>

So what is unique to a fuel stop besides the fuel?  Adding weight to the
boot area, opening the boot lid, removing the filler cap.  What else?

An unvented filler cap could restrict fuel flow.  Extra weight  and even
opening the boot lid could shift some recalcitrant ground or other
connection or loose shorted wire. Maybe even at the battery switch.
-Roland

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 8:12 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in
> the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.
> I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red
> herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
>
> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used
>> high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that
>> fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
>>
>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the
>>> tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the
>>> engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either
>>> got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently
>>> fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was
>>> once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
>>>
>>> I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender,
>>> searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after
>>> I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the
>>> fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around
>>>> the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.
>>>> Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.
>>>>
>>>> Don
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>>> Windows
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent: *Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
>>>> *To: *Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> *Cc: *Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable
>>>> thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.
>>>>
>>>> I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing
>>>> of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.
>>>>
>>>> This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.
>>>>
>>>> I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a
>>>> result of filling the tank.
>>>>
>>>> Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem
>>>> because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.
>>>>
>>>> Totally baffled.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
>>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi John -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through
>>>> bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that
>>>> had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil
>>>> had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Michael -
>>>>
>>>> Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest
>>>> themself  ...
>>>>
>>>>    - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel or the coil
>>>>    - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will
>>>>    exclude anything related to fuel
>>>>    - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude
>>>>    anything related to fuel
>>>>    - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions -
>>>>    suggests to me wiring / ground issues
>>>>
>>>> Given this I'd check (as a priority):
>>>>
>>>>    - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
>>>>    - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the
>>>>    connections)
>>>>    - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
>>>>    - loose wires in the dizzy
>>>>    - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
>>>>
>>>> Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
>>>>
>>>>    - replace rotor
>>>>    - replace dizzy cap
>>>>
>>>> I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this
>>>> would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire ..."
>>>>
>>>> It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it
>>>> grounds the coil primary so no spark.
>>>>
>>>> On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Michael -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the
>>>> ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at
>>>> the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird
>>>> symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no
>>>> problem.  I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
>>>> wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master
>>>> switch itself.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C01%7C%7C3bb4e4c79e0d4e042ed008daa2245124%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638000574102443247%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=B8c53rJrcH5ky1hxI2ZF2jz%2BnC4R8qYG177PpeEGdaI%3D&reserved=0>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Fri Sep 30 00:49:32 2022
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 08:49:32 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
Message-ID: <1664520572026.973115.a6189982307cf899464653f4aadbab540c0ede5c@spica.telekom.de>

Hello Mike,
I still suspect the master switch, or the white/black wire to it.
To check this, just take the white/black wire off the distributer and coil. 
And instead make a temporary connection (wire) from coil to distributer. 
And now make a test drive.
 
Cheers,
 
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/GERMANY

         

         

        From: Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
        Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
        To: Alan Seigrist <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
        Cc: Healey list <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

         

        Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue
        considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

        I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate
        vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me
        confused. 

        This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

        I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a
        result of filling the tank.

        Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation
        problem because the amount of engine power being used has no
        effect.

        Totally baffled.

        Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

         

        On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
        healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

         Hi John -

          

         Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell
         through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are
         Correct Sir!"

          

         Cheers,

          

         Alan

          

         On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com
         <mailto:ah100tech at gmail.com> > wrote:

          Alan

           

          Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one
          that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the
          insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the
          bottom of the case.

           

          On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <
          healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com> > wrote:

           Michael -

           Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to
           manifest themself  ... 

               * whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will
                 exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
               * whether the car is under load or not - this typically will
                 exclude anything related to fuel
               * whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will
                 exclude anything related to fuel
               * somewhat intermittent but systematically under all
                 conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

           Given this I'd check (as a priority):

               * Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
               * primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil
                 (cycle the connections)
               * motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
               * loose wires in the dizzy
               * loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

           Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

               * replace rotor
               * replace dizzy cap

           I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because
           this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe
           sensitive to temp.

           Best,

            

           Alan

            

           On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <
           bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

            re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the
            distributor wire ..."

            It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF'
            position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.


            On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

                Hi Michael -

                 

                Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire
                from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the
                coil to the distributor.

                 

                You might also want to try disconnecting the black and
                white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if
                it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that
                wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I
                don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor
                wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from
                underneath the master switch itself.

                 

                Best,

                 

                Alan

             

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Fri Sep 30 03:36:37 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 22:36:37 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <000c01d8d4b0$24902a30$6db07e90$@xtra.co.nz>

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 



 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Sep 30 04:17:59 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 11:17:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <000c01d8d4b0$24902a30$6db07e90$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000c01d8d4b0$24902a30$6db07e90$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <000a01d8d4b5$ebc25420$c346fc60$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 



 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Fri Sep 30 04:27:48 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 23:27:48 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <000a01d8d4b5$ebc25420$c346fc60$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000c01d8d4b0$24902a30$6db07e90$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000a01d8d4b5$ebc25420$c346fc60$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <001201d8d4b7$4a5f8fb0$df1eaf10$@xtra.co.nz>

Simon,

I don?t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.  

The light is there only as a ?tell tale?.   It doesn?t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is ? try it and see.

 

Cheers

Mark

 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> > 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> ; warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 



 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Sep 30 05:00:43 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 12:00:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <001201d8d4b7$4a5f8fb0$df1eaf10$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2035252520.1855811.1664465497367@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d8d420$dc92f490$95b8ddb0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000c01d8d4b0$24902a30$6db07e90$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000a01d8d4b5$ebc25420$c346fc60$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <001201d8d4b7$4a5f8fb0$df1eaf10$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <001701d8d4bb$e47c64c0$ad752e40$@alexarevel.plus.com>

It is, I think, all to do with how LEDs work. I?m not an expert but I refer you to someone who is:-

 <https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et120a.htm> IGNITION WARNING LAMP - What It Does And Doesn't Do (mgaguru.com)

Of course, I?ve never tried it so can?t be sure either way!

I seem to recall that our usual bulbs come in different degrees of brightness depending on their originally intended application. I think that I used to get mine from a motorbike place?.

Simon

 

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 11:28
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Simon,

I don?t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.  

The light is there only as a ?tell tale?.   It doesn?t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is ? try it and see.

 

Cheers

Mark

 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> >; warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> > 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> ; warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 



 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Fri Sep 30 05:15:52 2022
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 12:15:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light
Message-ID: <008d01d8d4be$00b709e0$02251da0$@btinternet.com>

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator
the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils
energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not
energise, and so no generation takes place.

 

Ian

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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Fri Sep 30 08:07:12 2022
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 10:07:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <008d01d8d4be$00b709e0$02251da0$@btinternet.com>
References: <008d01d8d4be$00b709e0$02251da0$@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <B6488EB7-26FE-43D3-BA5A-3B562CF1436C@hxcore.ol>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Sep 30 08:58:03 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 15:58:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light
In-Reply-To: <B6488EB7-26FE-43D3-BA5A-3B562CF1436C@hxcore.ol>
References: <008d01d8d4be$00b709e0$02251da0$@btinternet.com>
 <B6488EB7-26FE-43D3-BA5A-3B562CF1436C@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <004201d8d4dd$0bf62010$23e26030$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Seems to be an alternator thing.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Warren Dietz via Healeys
Sent: 30 September 2022 15:07
To: Ian Hey <rianhey at btinternet.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

 

I have had  LED instrument\generator(red) bulbs since 2009.  

 Works as intended like original incandescent lamp. Lights up at low idle etc.

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Ian Hey via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 8:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

 

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not energise, and so no generation takes place.

 

Ian

 

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 30 11:55:53 2022
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 17:55:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 side curtain rivet type
Message-ID: <PH7P221MB10071D083E87F432B64E3DE3D4569@PH7P221MB1007.NAMP221.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Does anyone know the type of original rivet that attaches the retainer flap (flap that attaches the curtain to the inner door panel with a tennax)? This is the rivet that goes through the steel bar sewn into the curtain material. Can't find a clear picture, but it appears to be a similar to the rivets that attach the battery cover door straps, although silver? And is there originally a fender washer used on the inside? Not sure if there was a difference over the years, but I believe these are the third type of curtains produced with the trim and interior access was made by an unattached material area at the bottom rear.
Thanks in advance.  Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Sep 30 15:29:57 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 22:29:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Door fit
Message-ID: <000001d8d513$cb002970$61007c50$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Healey 3000, BT7 MkII.

 

So, I put new new ?Cover plates?, item 27 & new furflex into my 3000. The
passenger side door became a rotten fit. Yes, it closed but there was a big
gap.

At first, I blamed the new furflex but that was another red herring.
Actually, it was the ?Cover plate? which was a lousy fit. Looked good, but
the holes for the door ?Striker?, item 31, were too small and did not allow
for the striker to be adjusted inwards.

Now, I got some aluminium sheet on order from which I will replicate the two
shims as mine are really ropey. But, I notice that, whatever I do/however
good the fit at the top of the door will be, the bottom will still stand
about ?? further out.

Question:- is there any adjustment to be made via the hinges? Can their
fastenings be loosened off and the hinges tapped inwards?

I am not overly hopeful, but you never know!

Simon

 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 30 16:33:18 2022
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 22:33:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Door fit
In-Reply-To: <000001d8d513$cb002970$61007c50$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d8d513$cb002970$61007c50$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB6078C9BD80E01B260C7220C2D1569@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Simon,
You can adjust your door inward, outward, add thin shims to the hinges, adjust the height, whatever. All you need is a lot of patience. The gap all around should no more than 1/4". You will also want to have a straight piece of metal, about24" long so you can adjust your door and your fenders both front and rear when viewed from the top so there is no gap front or rear. If you need photos let me know, I can send you some.

Jean

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 4:29:57 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Door fit


Healey 3000, BT7 MkII.



So, I put new new ?Cover plates?, item 27 & new furflex into my 3000. The passenger side door became a rotten fit. Yes, it closed but there was a big gap.

At first, I blamed the new furflex but that was another red herring. Actually, it was the ?Cover plate? which was a lousy fit. Looked good, but the holes for the door ?Striker?, item 31, were too small and did not allow for the striker to be adjusted inwards.

Now, I got some aluminium sheet on order from which I will replicate the two shims as mine are really ropey. But, I notice that, whatever I do/however good the fit at the top of the door will be, the bottom will still stand about ?? further out.

Question:- is there any adjustment to be made via the hinges? Can their fastenings be loosened off and the hinges tapped inwards?

I am not overly hopeful, but you never know!

Simon


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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep 30 18:00:30 2022
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 17:00:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door fit
In-Reply-To: <000001d8d513$cb002970$61007c50$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d8d513$cb002970$61007c50$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <007801d8d528$d2ce1940$786a4bc0$@sbcglobal.net>

If the previous cover plates fit and the door did too, you should not have
to adjust the door to get the cover plates to fit. When I installed new
cover plates I recall trimming them at the edges against the sill and B
pillar and also trimming them where they fit together at the 90 degree
corner. I also had to enlarge the holes for the strike plate although there
is not a lot of margin to do that. If you still want to adjust the door
hinges, it is not likely possible if the car has not been restored and the
hinges have not been loosened at the A pillar before. The nuts attaching the
hinges to the pillar are likely to be rusted.

 

This presumes the plates are properly formed to begin with and the sill and
B pillar are correct too.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 2:30 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Door fit

 

Healey 3000, BT7 MkII.

 

So, I put new new ?Cover plates?, item 27 & new furflex into my 3000. The
passenger side door became a rotten fit. Yes, it closed but there was a big
gap.

At first, I blamed the new furflex but that was another red herring.
Actually, it was the ?Cover plate? which was a lousy fit. Looked good, but
the holes for the door ?Striker?, item 31, were too small and did not allow
for the striker to be adjusted inwards.

Now, I got some aluminium sheet on order from which I will replicate the two
shims as mine are really ropey. But, I notice that, whatever I do/however
good the fit at the top of the door will be, the bottom will still stand
about ?? further out.

Question:- is there any adjustment to be made via the hinges? Can their
fastenings be loosened off and the hinges tapped inwards?

I am not overly hopeful, but you never know!

Simon

 

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From wdavid890dd at aol.com  Fri Sep 30 18:08:20 2022
From: wdavid890dd at aol.com (wdavid890dd at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2022 00:08:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 293
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1664560801.2871.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1664560801.2871.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1848803217.3158130.1664582900765@mail.yahoo.com>

Misfire issue
I suspect that the weight of the fuel is causing a ground to go away. When the tank is light it reappears. That?s my hunch.?Good luck,Dave Walsh


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Friday, September 30, 2022, 3:18 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint (John Spaur)
? 2. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Jim Ryan)
? 3. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Wasserman)
? 4. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Oritt)
? 5. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Seigrist)
? 6. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Salter)
? 7. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Oritt)
? 8. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
? 9. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Seigrist)
? 10. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Roland Wilhelmy)
? 11. Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
? 12. Re: ignition warning light (Mark Donaldson)
? 13. Re: ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
? 14. Re: ignition warning light (Mark Donaldson)
? 15. Re: ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
? 16. Ignition warning light (Ian Hey)
? 17. Re: Ignition warning light (Warren Dietz)
? 18. Re: Ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
? 19. BN2 side curtain rivet type (S and T Miller)
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They are typically 1? long.

 ?

John

 ?

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 9:32 AM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint

 ?

Hello,

 ?

My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I tried to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle?on my grease gun is too large to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a narrow nozzle or a narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints and used the grease fittings that came with the new joints. Should the grease?nipples (zerk fitting) be changed?to the longer ones?

 ?

Thanks... Harold

 ?

 ?
What happens if you don't turn the car off when you fill it up?
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 11:07 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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How old are your plug wires? ?Any chance a few worn out wires be the origin?

Alan WassermanAlanwassermannc at gmail.com732-887-0742www.wassermanstudio.com

On Sep 28, 2022, at 6:24 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:



?


This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along wellin top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when fullthrottle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when theengine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of themisfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttlesettings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and uponstarting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completelyand remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfirejust a little as I came to the end of the trip.

?POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.?????Plugs ? not like a bad plug. The misfire seemsto be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.?????Coil ?? Inmy experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to failas they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.?????Points ? a possibility but the dwell is set atexactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in theshop.

4.?????Fuel pump ? if the engine was starving for fuelbecause of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problemwould get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill offull throttle. This was absolutely not the case.




Any ideas folks?





I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.?I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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Michael--
You have to remember that when talking about problems with a Healey?the?unlikely sometimes becomes probable.? If you haven't already done so I would suggest that you drain and flush the tank either in situ or out of the car.?
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 10:02 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.?I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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 Check for a pin hole in the fuel pickup tube.
Bill LawrenceBN1#554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 2:01 AM
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.?BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.?I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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If the bits are floating around in the tank sometimes they are away from the pick up, other times they are stuck on the pickup.? It acts like a little flapper valve that?can float loose from time to time,?and finds its way back to the pickup as fuel is?being?drawn to the engine.? Good to use an endoscope and check the tank.??

I'm still leaning toward bad battery?master or bad wire connection somewhere.? Also if lights are dim, clean the battery contacts.
On Fri, Sep 30, 2022 at 10:02 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.?I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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So what is unique to a fuel stop besides the fuel?? Adding weight to the boot area, opening the boot lid, removing the filler cap.? What else?
An unvented filler cap could restrict fuel flow.? Extra weight? and even opening the boot lid could shift some recalcitrant ground or other connection or loose shorted wire. Maybe even at the battery switch.?-Roland
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 8:12 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause.?I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.? I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn?t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.? It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.? When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.?
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.? How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.? Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

?

?

Sent from Mail for Windows

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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Hello Mike,


I still suspect the master switch, or the white/black wire to it.

To check this, just take the white/black wire off the distributer and coil. And instead make a temporary connection (wire) from coil to distributer. And now make a test drive.

?

Cheers,

?

Josef Eckert

Konigswinter/GERMANY





?

?

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

?

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions.?

I? should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused.?

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll? report back.

?

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hi John -

?

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!? As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

?

Cheers,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:


Alan

?

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small?crack in the bottom of the case.

?

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:


Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself??...?
   
   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):
   
   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition?wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
   
   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular?all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

?

Alan

?

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


re: "... I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.



On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:


Hi Michael -

?

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

?

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it?s failing you?ll get weird symptoms like this.? If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.? I don?t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn?t you?ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

?

Best,

?

Alan


?


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?<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle20 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv4626836949 .yiv4626836949MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.? They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.? I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7?? That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.?? Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 ?

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 ?



 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson
<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 a:visited, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle20 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4626836949 MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 ?

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.? They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.? I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7?? That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.?? Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 ?

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 ?



 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson
<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle21 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:#993366;}#yiv4626836949 .yiv4626836949MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
Simon,

I don?t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.? 

The light is there only as a ?tell tale?.? ?It doesn?t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is ? try it and see.

 ?

Cheers

Mark

 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 ?

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.? They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.? I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7?? That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.?? Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 ?

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 ?



 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson
<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 a:visited, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:#993366;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle20 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4626836949 MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
It is, I think, all to do with how LEDs work. I?m not an expert but I refer you to someone who is:-

IGNITION WARNING LAMP - What It Does And Doesn't Do (mgaguru.com)

Of course, I?ve never tried it so can?t be sure either way!

I seem to recall that our usual bulbs come in different degrees of brightness depending on their originally intended application. I think that I used to get mine from a motorbike place?.

Simon

 ?

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 11:28
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Simon,

I don?t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.? 

The light is there only as a ?tell tale?.? ?It doesn?t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is ? try it and see.

 ?

Cheers

Mark

 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Sounds like a plan to me. Still ? to revert to the original question ? not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can?t remember!

Simon

 ?

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.? They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.? I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7?? That?s ?peanuts? in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.?? Ditto for leaving my lights on.

 ?

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 ?



 ?

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Pretty sure that you can?t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe ? as I was recently advised here ? take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

 ?

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson
<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4626836949 .yiv4626836949MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not energise, and so no generation takes place.

 ?

Ian
<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 .yiv4626836949MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
I hav=e had=C2=A0 LED instrument\generator(red) bulbs since 2009. =C2=A0</=p>

=C2=A0Works as intended like original incandescent l=amp. Lights up at low idle etc.

 ?</ =p>

Sent from Mail for Windows

 ?=

From: Ian Hey via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022= 8:36 AM
To: healeys at au=tox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

 ?

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an =alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the fiel=d coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils wil=l not energise, and so no generation takes place.

?

Ian

= ?
 =<!--#yiv4626836949 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 #yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949MsoNormal, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 a:link, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 a:visited, #yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4626836949 p.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 li.yiv4626836949msonormal0, #yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4626836949 span.yiv4626836949EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4626836949 MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4626836949 div.yiv4626836949WordSection1 {}-->
Seems to be an alternator thing.

Simon

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Warren Dietz via Healeys
Sent: 30 September 2022 15:07
To: Ian Hey <rianhey at btinternet.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

 ?

I have had? LED instrument\generator(red) bulbs since 2009. ?

?Works as intended like original incandescent lamp. Lights up at low idle etc.

 ?

Sent from Mail for Windows

 ?

From: Ian Hey via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 8:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

 ?

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not energise, and so no generation takes place.

?

Ian

 ?
 Does anyone know the type of original rivet that attaches the retainer flap (flap that attaches the curtain to the inner door panel with a tennax)? This is the rivet that goes through the steel bar sewn into the curtain material. Can't find a clear picture, but it appears to be a similar to the rivets that attach the battery cover door straps, although silver? And is there originally a fender washer used on the inside? Not sure if there was a difference over the years, but I believe these are the third type of curtains produced with the trim and interior access was made by an unattached material area at the bottom rear.Thanks in advance.? Shawn
The Millers
?
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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