[Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
warthodson at aol.com
warthodson at aol.com
Mon Oct 3 12:07:02 MDT 2022
Has your gas tank ever been coated internally with a chemical liner?Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2022 9:43 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.
This is a non-progress report. I found a few minutes to continue my efforts to trace this misfire fault.Removed the LT wire from the distributor and from the 2 coil terminals.Ran a jumper from the CB terminal of the coil to the distributor and a second jumper from the live starter solenoid terminal to the SW terminal of the coil, thus eliminating things like the ignition switch and the battery master switch.Absolutely no change. In fact possibly worse.Next I'll pull out the distributor and check all the internal wiring, fit a different rotor and install a substitute coil. Stay tuned for further bulletins.
M
On Fri., Sep. 30, 2022, 12:41 a.m. Roland Wilhelmy, <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:
So what is unique to a fuel stop besides the fuel? Adding weight to the boot area, opening the boot lid, removing the filler cap. What else?
An unvented filler cap could restrict fuel flow. Extra weight and even opening the boot lid could shift some recalcitrant ground or other connection or loose shorted wire. Maybe even at the battery switch. -Roland
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 8:12 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
Good point. I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank. It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss. When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc.
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away. How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again. Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.Don Sent from Mail for Windows From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. I should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.Totally baffled.Thanks again to all ... I'll report back. On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Hi John - Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation! As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!" Cheers, Alan On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
Alan Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case. On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
Michael -
Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself ...
- whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
- whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
- whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
- somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues
Given this I'd check (as a priority):
- Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
- primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
- motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
- loose wires in the dizzy
- loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug
Other things to possibly do (as secondary):
- replace rotor
- replace dizzy cap
I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.
Best, Alan On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."
It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.
On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
Hi Michael - Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor. You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this. If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem. I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself. Best, Alan
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