From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Jun  1 00:00:40 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 18:00:40 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
In-Reply-To: <79CBD077-160C-40F6-ABCB-D4663194AC9C@hxcore.ol>
References: <79CBD077-160C-40F6-ABCB-D4663194AC9C@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <000201d8757c$ecb8fb10$c62af130$@xtra.co.nz>

Harold,

 

Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the left ? mine on the right.

The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting number and everything.

As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call them ?harmonic balancers?.

 

Mark

 

Ardmore, NZ

 

          

 

 

L > R:    Chevy 409 ? fractured, off my 3000 race car                                     Healey                                                                Wolseley



 

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper. See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or ????

 

Regards,

 

Harold

 

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun  1 01:32:45 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 15:32:45 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
In-Reply-To: <000201d8757c$ecb8fb10$c62af130$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <79CBD077-160C-40F6-ABCB-D4663194AC9C@hxcore.ol>
 <000201d8757c$ecb8fb10$c62af130$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJRXK50Oy9jRufFK6raFLgErkF3gOs0uLLE=9X=JyBExw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Harold -

The Damper you have in the middle is the early 100/6 - 3000 damper used on
Healey engines up to the BJ8.

The damper and pulley can be separated when you remove the bolts.  It's
only the BJ8 damper that looks a little more like your 6/110 damper on the
right.

Best,

Alan


On Wed, Jun 1, 2022 at 2:03 PM Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

> Harold,
>
>
>
> Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the
> left ? mine on the right.
>
> The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting
> number and everything.
>
> As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call
> them ?harmonic balancers?.
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *L > R:    Chevy 409 ? fractured, off my 3000 race car
>                                    Healey
>                                                                Wolseley*
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
> *To:* Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
>
>
>
> A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an
> unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the
> engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper.
> See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it
> an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or
> ????
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Wed Jun  1 09:45:26 2022
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 08:45:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
In-Reply-To: <000201d8757c$ecb8fb10$c62af130$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <79CBD077-160C-40F6-ABCB-D4663194AC9C@hxcore.ol>,
 <000201d8757c$ecb8fb10$c62af130$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <530FD93B-4878-445A-A9D9-17E1F81DD437@hxcore.ol>

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun  1 10:31:36 2022
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 16:31:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 H4 carb jets
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLm8Oqof8QOtto2j6K5tw=AVDyYLqUqNdd4+5nXJU+PpA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SN4PR07MB9229B9274CA78EB1BA308D41D4DC9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLm8Oqof8QOtto2j6K5tw=AVDyYLqUqNdd4+5nXJU+PpA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SN4PR07MB92291CAF5BE9E14920A1FC57D4DF9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you Alan. Great info. ?


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2022 12:54 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 H4 carb jets

Hi Shawn -

The "superdry" seals need to be used with updated jet bearings as well.... the old style jet bearings will only work with cork seals, you cant put rubber seals in it's place.  You have to buy them as a unit.  I have zero problems with leaky H4s.

https://sucarb.co.uk/carburettor-kits/jet-bearing-kits/h-type-carburettors/h-type-superdry-jet-bearing-seal-kit.html

Best,

Alan

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 9:50 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Anyone come up with any good tricks to seal the jets from leaking, and stay centered? I chamfered the jet side holes so not to tear the "upgraded" o-rings but still seeps fuel. Tried three sets with with no success. Also the jet bearing doesn't seem to stay centered and it's easy to move the jet assembly around from underneath.  I stretched out the old gland springs and that seemed to help, so I installed new gland springs and still not great. Thinking of stretching out the new gland springs and use new oil soaked cork seals, as original.  Thoughts?
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Jun  1 12:33:31 2022
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 18:33:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 H4 carb jets
In-Reply-To: <SN4PR07MB92291CAF5BE9E14920A1FC57D4DF9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN4PR07MB9229B9274CA78EB1BA308D41D4DC9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLm8Oqof8QOtto2j6K5tw=AVDyYLqUqNdd4+5nXJU+PpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <SN4PR07MB92291CAF5BE9E14920A1FC57D4DF9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <SN4PR07MB92293236FDBF9EA8A4B1BB38D4DF9@SN4PR07MB9229.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

In my response,  what showed up as a question mark, was actually a "thumbs up". It didn't translate properly. Thanks again.


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: S and T Miller
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2022 12:31 PM
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 H4 carb jets

Thank you Alan. Great info. ?


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2022 12:54 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 H4 carb jets

Hi Shawn -

The "superdry" seals need to be used with updated jet bearings as well.... the old style jet bearings will only work with cork seals, you cant put rubber seals in it's place.  You have to buy them as a unit.  I have zero problems with leaky H4s.

https://sucarb.co.uk/carburettor-kits/jet-bearing-kits/h-type-carburettors/h-type-superdry-jet-bearing-seal-kit.html

Best,

Alan

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 9:50 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Anyone come up with any good tricks to seal the jets from leaking, and stay centered? I chamfered the jet side holes so not to tear the "upgraded" o-rings but still seeps fuel. Tried three sets with with no success. Also the jet bearing doesn't seem to stay centered and it's easy to move the jet assembly around from underneath.  I stretched out the old gland springs and that seemed to help, so I installed new gland springs and still not great. Thinking of stretching out the new gland springs and use new oil soaked cork seals, as original.  Thoughts?
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Jun  1 20:19:58 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 14:19:58 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
Message-ID: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>

Yes.  Both have the exact same 16 stud bolt pattern.

The block is typically painted Morris Engine Green.  I?ve never seen a blue one, but engine reconditioners seem to have their own favourite colours, including gold, and orange.

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 2 June 2022 3:45 AM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Mark you have nailed it.  It is possible the engine in this BJ8 of unknown provenance has the bottom end from a Wolseley. 

Would the top end from a Healey engine bolt directly to a Wolseley block? 

The block is painted blue would that be a typical Wolseley engine colour? 

 

Are there any distinguishing features too look for between a Healey block and a Wolseley block?

They appear to be the same, except for the later BJ8s where the dip stick tube is mounted forward and higher than all the previous models.

The Healeys, Wolseley 6/110 and Austin A110 all have the same casting number on their blocks ? 12B 766

 

Thanks,

Harold

 

Wolseley 6/110 block painted Morris Engine Green.  

These sell here in New Zealand generally for between $50 - $100.  

This is an early 6/110 block  . . .  I?m showing it for the colour only. 

Note that the seller has penned ?Austin Healey, A110, Wolseley? on the block.

They make great boat anchors.  ?

 



 

 

From: Mark Donaldson <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 11:00 PM
To: Harold Manifold <mailto:manifold at telus.net> ; Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Harold,

 

Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the left ? mine on the right.

The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting number and everything.

As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call them ?harmonic balancers?.

 

Mark

 

Ardmore, NZ

 

          

 

 

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > 
Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper. See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or ????

 

Regards,

 

Harold

 

 

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From rvmaylor at shaw.ca  Wed Jun  1 21:47:00 2022
From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2022 21:47:00 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] A friend has shared a Kijiji Ad: Amazing opportunity to
 complete a genuine Nash Healey
Message-ID: <A596DCC8-A4DC-497E-89BC-546315D4BE05@shaw.ca>

Hello,
I saw this ad and thought it might interest you.



You can view the ad at Amazing opportunity to complete a genuine Nash Healey

This ad was shared from the Kijiji Classifieds iPhone App. You can download the app from the App Store

Thanks for visiting Kijiji!

Help About Privacy Policy Terms of Use Contact Kijiji
Copyright ? 2022 eBay International AG


Sent from my iPhone
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Jun  2 02:19:07 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 09:19:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
In-Reply-To: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>

The gold ones were, in the UK at least, so-called ?Goldseal? units which were reconditioned for or by BMC. I remember that they were marketed, amongst other places,  through a magazine called ?Exchange & Mart?. This was a pretty scruffy publication, a sort of paper forerunner to eBay, but a goldmine for people like me, student, who were trying to run a Healey on the cheap. Coincidentally, my gearbox is a Goldseal.

Maybe they sold them abroad and I?m talking  to the converted??..

Simon

 

From: Healeys <> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: 02 June 2022 03:20
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley

 

Yes.  Both have the exact same 16 stud bolt pattern.

The block is typically painted Morris Engine Green.  I?ve never seen a blue one, but engine reconditioners seem to have their own favourite colours, including gold, and orange.

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > 
Sent: Thursday, 2 June 2022 3:45 AM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> >; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Mark you have nailed it.  It is possible the engine in this BJ8 of unknown provenance has the bottom end from a Wolseley. 

Would the top end from a Healey engine bolt directly to a Wolseley block? 

The block is painted blue would that be a typical Wolseley engine colour? 

 

Are there any distinguishing features too look for between a Healey block and a Wolseley block?

They appear to be the same, except for the later BJ8s where the dip stick tube is mounted forward and higher than all the previous models.

The Healeys, Wolseley 6/110 and Austin A110 all have the same casting number on their blocks ? 12B 766

 

Thanks,

Harold

 

Wolseley 6/110 block painted Morris Engine Green.  

These sell here in New Zealand generally for between $50 - $100.  

This is an early 6/110 block  . . .  I?m showing it for the colour only. 

Note that the seller has penned ?Austin Healey, A110, Wolseley? on the block.

They make great boat anchors.  ?

 



 

 

From: Mark Donaldson <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 11:00 PM
To: Harold Manifold <mailto:manifold at telus.net> ; Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Harold,

 

Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the left ? mine on the right.

The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting number and everything.

As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call them ?harmonic balancers?.

 

Mark

 

Ardmore, NZ

 

          

 

 

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > 
Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper. See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or ????

 

Regards,

 

Harold

 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 05:00:09 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 07:00:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
In-Reply-To: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK1Kc44aPQ6oT=Tw0Z8OcEaOpoQoQBmP8MN9DPYvSgzQg@mail.gmail.com>

As I  mentioned earlier, the damper that Mark has identified as Wolseley
was, I believe, also used on late BJ8s with the 1/2" fan belt.
The illustration in the parts book does not show the "fins" but I
certainly have encountered those on BJ8s.

M

On Wed., Jun. 1, 2022, 10:20 p.m. Mark Donaldson, <
ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:

> Yes.  Both have the exact same 16 stud bolt pattern.
>
> The block is typically painted Morris Engine Green.  I?ve never seen a
> *blue* one, but engine reconditioners seem to have their own favourite
> colours, including gold, and orange.
>
>
>
> *From:* Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, 2 June 2022 3:45 AM
> *To:* Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; Healey List <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
>
>
>
> Mark you have nailed it.  It is possible the engine in this BJ8 of
> unknown provenance has the bottom end from a Wolseley.
>
> Would the top end from a Healey engine bolt directly to a Wolseley block?
>
> The block is painted blue would that be a typical Wolseley engine colour?
>
>
>
> Are there any distinguishing features too look for between a Healey block
> and a Wolseley block?
>
> They appear to be the same, except for the later BJ8s where the dip stick
> tube is mounted forward and higher than all the previous models.
>
> The Healeys, Wolseley 6/110 and Austin A110 all have the same casting
> number on their blocks ? 12B 766
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *Wolseley 6/110 block painted Morris Engine Green.  *
>
> These sell here in New Zealand generally for between $50 - $100.
>
> This is an early 6/110 block  . . .  I?m showing it for the colour only.
>
> Note that the seller has penned ?Austin Healey, A110, Wolseley? on the
> block.
>
> They make great boat anchors.  ?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, May 31, 2022 11:00 PM
> *To: *Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>; Healey List
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
>
>
>
> Harold,
>
>
>
> Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the
> left ? mine on the right.
>
> The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting
> number and everything.
>
> As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call
> them ?harmonic balancers?.
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
> *To:* Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
>
>
>
> A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an
> unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the
> engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper.
> See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it
> an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or
> ????
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jun  2 05:06:44 2022
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 07:06:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
In-Reply-To: <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <01e701d87670$d9007450$8b015cf0$@rr.com>

The Gold Seal engines were available in the USA.  The one in the photo attached has an interesting story.  The original owner was told by the selling dealer?s mechanic that he needed a new engine, not too long after he bought the car, and during a routine servicing visit.  The owner said he had not been having any problems with his original engine that he was aware of, but he agreed to the change.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2022 4:19 AM
To: 'Mark Donaldson'; 'Harold Manifold'; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley

 

The gold ones were, in the UK at least, so-called ?Goldseal? units which were reconditioned for or by BMC. I remember that they were marketed, amongst other places,  through a magazine called ?Exchange & Mart?. This was a pretty scruffy publication, a sort of paper forerunner to eBay, but a goldmine for people like me, student, who were trying to run a Healey on the cheap. Coincidentally, my gearbox is a Goldseal.

Maybe they sold them abroad and I?m talking  to the converted??..

Simon

 

From: Healeys <> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: 02 June 2022 03:20
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley

 

Yes.  Both have the exact same 16 stud bolt pattern.

The block is typically painted Morris Engine Green.  I?ve never seen a blue one, but engine reconditioners seem to have their own favourite colours, including gold, and orange.

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 2 June 2022 3:45 AM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Mark you have nailed it.  It is possible the engine in this BJ8 of unknown provenance has the bottom end from a Wolseley. 

Would the top end from a Healey engine bolt directly to a Wolseley block? 

The block is painted blue would that be a typical Wolseley engine colour? 

 

Are there any distinguishing features too look for between a Healey block and a Wolseley block?

They appear to be the same, except for the later BJ8s where the dip stick tube is mounted forward and higher than all the previous models.

The Healeys, Wolseley 6/110 and Austin A110 all have the same casting number on their blocks ? 12B 766

 

Thanks,

Harold

 

Wolseley 6/110 block painted Morris Engine Green.  

These sell here in New Zealand generally for between $50 - $100.  

This is an early 6/110 block  . . .  I?m showing it for the colour only. 

Note that the seller has penned ?Austin Healey, A110, Wolseley? on the block.

They make great boat anchors.  ?

 



 

 

From: Mark <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>  Donaldson
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 11:00 PM
To: Harold Manifold <mailto:manifold at telus.net> ; Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

Harold,

 

Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.  Yours on the left ? mine on the right.

The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.  Same casting number and everything.

As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.  I usually call them ?harmonic balancers?.

 

Mark

 

Ardmore, NZ

 

          

 

 

 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper

 

A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on the engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft damper. See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft damper? Was it an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a Westminster or ????

 

Regards,

 

Harold

 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 05:19:52 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 07:19:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
In-Reply-To: <01e701d87670$d9007450$8b015cf0$@rr.com>
References: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <01e701d87670$d9007450$8b015cf0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLtrY8kL6p9V7_mvMd4rBbyHnD4AUcSY14k7YVzsh5F8Q@mail.gmail.com>

"The owner said he had not been having any problems with his original
engine"

Things were probably a bit slow in the service department that week.

On Thu., Jun. 2, 2022, 7:07 a.m. BJ8Healeys, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> The Gold Seal engines were available in the USA.  The one in the photo
> attached has an interesting story.  The original owner was told by the
> selling dealer?s mechanic that he needed a new engine, not too long after
> he bought the car, and during a routine servicing visit.  The owner said he
> had not been having any problems with his original engine that he was aware
> of, but he agreed to the change.
>
Things were probably a bit slow in the service department that week. ??

>  *M*
>
>
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Jun  2 07:54:32 2022
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 14:54:32 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
In-Reply-To: <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000601d87627$42541b40$c6fc51c0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000e01d87659$6f3ee770$4dbcb650$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <b27faa60-ad86-5af0-c763-a0f93e5e59ed@summaventures.com>

Ah, E&M. Brings back memories!

Peter

On 02/06/2022 09:19, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> The gold ones were, in the UK at least, so-called ?Goldseal? units which 
> were reconditioned for or by BMC. I remember that they were marketed, 
> amongst other places, ?through a magazine called ?Exchange & Mart?. This 
> was a pretty scruffy publication, a sort of paper forerunner to eBay, 
> but a goldmine for people like me, student, who were trying to run a 
> Healey on the cheap. Coincidentally, my gearbox is a Goldseal.
> 
> Maybe they sold them abroad and I?m talking? to the converted??..
> 
> Simon
> 
> *From:*Healeys <> *On Behalf Of *Mark Donaldson
> *Sent:* 02 June 2022 03:20
> *To:* 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Healey List' 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] 2912cc block commonality - A-H, Austin & Wolseley
> 
> Yes.Both have the exact same 16 stud bolt pattern.
> 
> The block is typically painted Morris Engine Green.? I?ve never seen a 
> *blue* one, but engine reconditioners seem to have their own favourite 
> colours, including gold, and orange.
> 
> *From:*Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> *Sent:* Thursday, 2 June 2022 3:45 AM
> *To:* Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz 
> <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>>; Healey List 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
> 
> Mark you have nailed it. It is possible the engine in this BJ8 of 
> unknown provenance has the bottom end from a Wolseley.
> 
> Would the top end from a Healey engine bolt directly to a Wolseley block?
> 
> The block is painted blue would that be a typical Wolseley engine colour?
> 
> Are there any distinguishing features too look for between a Healey 
> block and a Wolseley block?
> 
> They appear to be the same, except for the later BJ8s where the dip 
> stick tube is mounted forward and higher than all the previous models.
> 
> The Healeys, Wolseley 6/110 and Austin A110 all have the same casting 
> number on their blocks ? 12B 766
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Harold
> 
> *Wolseley 6/110 block painted Morris Engine Green. *
> 
> These sell here in New Zealand generally for between $50 - $100.
> 
> This is an early 6/110 block? . . .? I?m showing it for the colour only.
> 
> Note that the seller has penned ?Austin Healey, A110, Wolseley? on the 
> block.
> 
> They make great boat anchors. ?
> 
> *From: *Mark Donaldson <mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, May 31, 2022 11:00 PM
> *To: *Harold Manifold <mailto:manifold at telus.net>; Healey List 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
> 
> Harold,
> 
> Here is a damper off my spare Wolseley 6/110 Mk II engine.? Yours on the 
> left ? mine on the right.
> 
> The Wolseley block is exactly the same as the BJ8 engine.? Same casting 
> number and everything.
> 
> As you can see, the 6/110 damper is the same as yours.? I usually call 
> them ?harmonic balancers?.
> 
> Mark
> 
> Ardmore, NZ
> 
> **
> 
> *From:*Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 31 May 2022 3:52 PM
> *To:* Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Strange Crankshaft Damper
> 
> A member our Healey club has started a restoration of a BJ8 with an 
> unknown history. There wasn?t a serial number or any identify marks on 
> the engine but the engine was painted blue and has a strange crankshaft 
> damper. See attached picture. Does anyone recognize this crankshaft 
> damper? Was it an aftermarket option back in the day? Did it come from a 
> Westminster or ????
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Harold
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From ggilliam at usol.com  Thu Jun  2 09:24:10 2022
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2022 11:24:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
Message-ID: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>

I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away 
yesterday.
We have lost another great resource....

Gordy
Longbridge BN4

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun  2 10:01:42 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 09:01:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
Message-ID: <3c9df3b3-37b9-0978-8a8c-f502b4c3bfe2@comcast.net>

Very sad. I first met Gary when I was loading my BJ8 with my girlfriend 
at the time and one of her friends for a trip up Mount Hamilton. He 
drove by, slammed on the brakes and stopped to ask if I was a member of 
the AHCUSA. I assured him I was, and later commissioned him to do an 
insurance appraisal for that car.

His communications have dropped off considerably over the last few 
years, so I suspected he was 'getting on.'



On 6/2/2022 8:24 AM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote:
> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away 
> yesterday.
> We have lost another great resource....
>
> Gordy
> Longbridge BN4


From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun  2 12:00:13 2022
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 18:00:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <3c9df3b3-37b9-0978-8a8c-f502b4c3bfe2@comcast.net>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
 <3c9df3b3-37b9-0978-8a8c-f502b4c3bfe2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR19MB2687184344001A72F0C377F0BFDE9@MN2PR19MB2687.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Very sad; he was my guide around 2004, when I wanted to look at a BN7 In a ?barn? in His neighborhood that I ended up buying, restoring and still have today. He took me in his BN7 to show me what they were vs other ?Big Healeys?.
He was a walking encyclopedia of Healey knowledge and a great Vintage track guy with his mini.
Regards,
Richard C of KY
BN7 


> On Jun 2, 2022, at 11:01, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Very sad. I first met Gary when I was loading my BJ8 with my girlfriend at the time and one of her friends for a trip up Mount Hamilton. He drove by, slammed on the brakes and stopped to ask if I was a member of the AHCUSA. I assured him I was, and later commissioned him to do an insurance appraisal for that car.
> 
> His communications have dropped off considerably over the last few years, so I suspected he was 'getting on.'
> 
> 
> 
>> On 6/2/2022 8:24 AM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote:
>> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away yesterday.
>> We have lost another great resource....
>> 
>> Gordy
>> Longbridge BN4
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 12:10:26 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 11:10:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_QzQWg3PP4BZWC9KTDFLNM5O5KWEGgqdCwFhQYrO4ufw@mail.gmail.com>

so very sad. Garry and I knew each other for years online, but only met
face to face a few years ago when he and his wife retired to Southern
Oregon. Big loss personally and big loss to our community.
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Thu, Jun 2, 2022 at 8:26 AM <ggilliam at usol.com> wrote:

> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
> yesterday.
> We have lost another great resource....
>
> Gordy
> Longbridge BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jun  2 12:15:28 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 14:15:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR19MB2687184344001A72F0C377F0BFDE9@MN2PR19MB2687.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR19MB2687184344001A72F0C377F0BFDE9@MN2PR19MB2687.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6BC8702A-5BE0-401A-B802-853C1C23DC10@aol.com>

Rest well my old friend. Much Aloha to family and friends. Gary will be missed?.
Perry and Kimberley Small

Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On 6/2/2022 8:24 AM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote:
>>> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away yesterday.
>>> We have lost another great resource....
>>> 
>>> Gordy
>>> 
> 


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 15:01:59 2022
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 17:01:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B58QG7W8e5UqVx3vXrkNL6fT+qjxfSzs_kRG-3WonwfhQ@mail.gmail.com>

Sad--He was a very helpful person and did much for our marque.


On Thu, Jun 2, 2022 at 11:25 AM <ggilliam at usol.com> wrote:

> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
> yesterday.
> We have lost another great resource....
>
> Gordy
> Longbridge BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Jun  2 16:31:50 2022
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 08:31:50 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
Message-ID: <004501d876d0$8ebce990$ac36bcb0$@tpg.com.au>

What terribly tragic news.

I had been corresponding with Gary for years and first met him during the
late 1980s when he and Genie visited Australia. He drove the BN3 and enjoyed
the RHD experience without putting the left side of the car into a wall.

Spent some time together in 2008 when we were in the US and especially at
Laguna Seca where he was running his MGA.

At 77 it's far too early and the Austin-Healey fraternity will miss him
greatly.

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
ggilliam at usol.com
Sent: Friday, 3 June 2022 1:24 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson

I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
yesterday.
We have lost another great resource....

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Jun  2 16:34:03 2022
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 23:34:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B58QG7W8e5UqVx3vXrkNL6fT+qjxfSzs_kRG-3WonwfhQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
 <CAPTa0B58QG7W8e5UqVx3vXrkNL6fT+qjxfSzs_kRG-3WonwfhQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7693262b-bbe5-4044-f632-09ef8e18011d@summaventures.com>

I can only second that.

Peter

On 02/06/2022 22:01, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Sad--He was a very helpful person and did much for our marque.
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jun 2, 2022 at 11:25 AM <ggilliam at usol.com 
> <mailto:ggilliam at usol.com>> wrote:
> 
>     I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
>     yesterday.
>     We have lost another great resource....
> 
>     Gordy
>     Longbridge BN4
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>
> 
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
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-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 17:04:42 2022
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 16:04:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+a4jxesPXB2mfJ87Q8+1cx0EH8NkT7A6enr7uCxMdCAuA@mail.gmail.com>

I am so saddened to hear of Gary's passing. Much of my contact with him was
via email aside from a small group 'road trip' to Oahu (hosted by Perry)
and the usual big gatherings. I wouldn't have a Healey if it weren't for
Gary's info and help.  I will miss him.
-Roland

On Thu, Jun 2, 2022, 8:26 AM <ggilliam at usol.com> wrote:

> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
> yesterday.
> We have lost another great resource....
>
> Gordy
> Longbridge BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jun  2 17:08:40 2022
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2022 19:08:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+a4jxesPXB2mfJ87Q8+1cx0EH8NkT7A6enr7uCxMdCAuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
 <CADpDe+a4jxesPXB2mfJ87Q8+1cx0EH8NkT7A6enr7uCxMdCAuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6CLW77y_Lvk49eE22F_pBNRkGCQ8e3jK7Z9c-=2=B3og@mail.gmail.com>

Gary helped me with ans when I cam e out to Tahoe in 2002 for Open Roads
and previously worked with me on an article for British Car mag.

 Best-Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jun 2, 2022, 7:04 PM Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am so saddened to hear of Gary's passing. Much of my contact with him
> was via email aside from a small group 'road trip' to Oahu (hosted by
> Perry) and the usual big gatherings. I wouldn't have a Healey if it weren't
> for Gary's info and help.  I will miss him.
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, Jun 2, 2022, 8:26 AM <ggilliam at usol.com> wrote:
>
>> I just a news item on Classic Motorsports that Editor Gary passed away
>> yesterday.
>> We have lost another great resource....
>>
>> Gordy
>> Longbridge BN4
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jun  3 05:23:04 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 19:23:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gary Anderson
In-Reply-To: <7693262b-bbe5-4044-f632-09ef8e18011d@summaventures.com>
References: <28e0f3cd35bff3c3885038f59611755e@usol.com>
 <CAPTa0B58QG7W8e5UqVx3vXrkNL6fT+qjxfSzs_kRG-3WonwfhQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7693262b-bbe5-4044-f632-09ef8e18011d@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJXRkEgxcQVduy-Jcd6DJZAatQWVmC4MW+kb4nfLCNZ1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I'm so sorry to hear that Gary has passed away.  We are lucky to have had
people like him to help us all be better fans and enthusiasts.

RIP Gary.

Alan


>
>
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Fri Jun  3 12:31:20 2022
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 18:31:20 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Owner's Handbook No. 966/D
Message-ID: <20220603.143120.13701.2@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

I have two copies that were printed as per original by a club member some years back. Have been stored and never used.If you have an interest, please contact off list. Thanks. Doug
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Jun  3 13:36:11 2022
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 15:36:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust systems
References: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823@rogers.com>

I bought an entire new stainless system for my BJ8 last spring.
I was determined to start with all new parts after some frustration with my old system.
Since installing the new system,I?ve been struggling with leaks somewhere in front of the two main muffler/silencers?assuming of course that it was the connections there.
Today I decided to stop assuming and found that the welds on the down pipes to the flex pipe were leaking quite noticeably?imagine my chagrin!
I could actually hear it.
I?ve fired off an email to the supplier, so I?ll let you know who they are when I?ve received a reply and heard what they have to say.

All this is to say; it shouldn't be necessary, but if anyone is ordering a new exhaust system, I would quiz them about how carefully the welds are checked?I mean it has to be gas tight or why bother?!

I?ll keep you posted.

Stephen BJ8


From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jun  3 16:07:13 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 15:07:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust systems
In-Reply-To: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823@rogers.com>
References: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823.ref@rogers.com>
 <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <f976ce9c-336d-76cc-3fe8-bd10343b2b5e@comcast.net>

Bad welds on aftermarket exhaust systems are, unfortunately, 
commonplace. I doubt you'll get relief from your supplier.

Fixing issues like this are one of the reasons I bought a cheap MIG 
welder and got into welding. I actually 'fabbed' my BJ8's exhaust with 
pipes from a defunct ANSA system and some glasspacks from JC Whitney. 
The welds ain't pretty, and it doesn't sound 'Healey,' but it don't 
sound bad (people think I have a V8 under the bonnet).


On 6/3/2022 12:36 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> I bought an entire new stainless system for my BJ8 last spring.
> I was determined to start with all new parts after some frustration with my old system.
> Since installing the new system,I?ve been struggling with leaks somewhere in front of the two main muffler/silencers?assuming of course that it was the connections there.
> Today I decided to stop assuming and found that the welds on the down pipes to the flex pipe were leaking quite noticeably?imagine my chagrin!
> I could actually hear it.
> I?ve fired off an email to the supplier, so I?ll let you know who they are when I?ve received a reply and heard what they have to say.
>
> All this is to say; it shouldn't be necessary, but if anyone is ordering a new exhaust system, I would quiz them about how carefully the welds are checked?I mean it has to be gas tight or why bother?!
>
> I?ll keep you posted.
>
> Stephen BJ8
>
>


From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri Jun  3 17:40:50 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Bob Begani)
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2022 15:40:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Exhaust systems
References: <528ABC4A-B010-442C-A374-A692EA9C05EB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FB99304D-077E-49BA-B021-7A1BC2E1FADC@gmail.com>



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> 
> 
> ?Surprised J C Whitney AKA Wharshawsky existed. So I looked it up. Interesting history.   I remember driving across Chicago to go to Warshawsky  to pick up parts for my father?s 1952 Chev my first car and later my Healey  Cheap good parts, not Chinese junk.  Even set them up as a distributor for a service instrument I was peddling at the time as they had great catalog distribution. Those were the days!
> 
> Bob Begani
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 3, 2022, at 2:07 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Bad welds on aftermarket exhaust systems are, unfortunately, commonplace. I doubt you'll get relief from your supplier.
>> 
>> Fixing issues like this are one of the reasons I bought a cheap MIG welder and got into welding. I actually 'fabbed' my BJ8's exhaust with pipes from a defunct ANSA system and some glasspacks from JC Whitney. The welds ain't pretty, and it doesn't sound 'Healey,' but it don't sound bad (people think I have a V8 under the bonnet).
>> 
>> 
>>>> On 6/3/2022 12:36 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
>>> I bought an entire new stainless system for my BJ8 last spring.
>>> I was determined to start with all new parts after some frustration with my old system.
>>> Since installing the new system,I?ve been struggling with leaks somewhere in front of the two main muffler/silencers?assuming of course that it was the connections there.
>>> Today I decided to stop assuming and found that the welds on the down pipes to the flex pipe were leaking quite noticeably?imagine my chagrin!
>>> I could actually hear it.
>>> I?ve fired off an email to the supplier, so I?ll let you know who they are when I?ve received a reply and heard what they have to say.
>>> 
>>> All this is to say; it shouldn't be necessary, but if anyone is ordering a new exhaust system, I would quiz them about how carefully the welds are checked?I mean it has to be gas tight or why bother?!
>>> 
>>> I?ll keep you posted.
>>> 
>>> Stephen BJ8
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com
>> 

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jun  3 21:40:25 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 11:40:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust systems
In-Reply-To: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823@rogers.com>
References: <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823.ref@rogers.com>
 <B2EB9071-F347-4B51-B74E-E2B2958A2823@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLUzg0Q8vhrJd5ETg8i3U8TigqEVr5nZNh_CHQ4pcx-kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Better than having three of the six pipes on my BJ8 SS system split over
several years along the entire pipe length manufacture seam!  that you
can't even repair!

Suggest you just take it to a muffle shop and have them weld up the hole,
it will save you alot of grief.

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 3:36 AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> I bought an entire new stainless system for my BJ8 last spring.
> I was determined to start with all new parts after some frustration with
> my old system.
> Since installing the new system,I?ve been struggling with leaks somewhere
> in front of the two main muffler/silencers?assuming of course that it was
> the connections there.
> Today I decided to stop assuming and found that the welds on the down
> pipes to the flex pipe were leaking quite noticeably?imagine my chagrin!
> I could actually hear it.
> I?ve fired off an email to the supplier, so I?ll let you know who they are
> when I?ve received a reply and heard what they have to say.
>
> All this is to say; it shouldn't be necessary, but if anyone is ordering a
> new exhaust system, I would quiz them about how carefully the welds are
> checked?I mean it has to be gas tight or why bother?!
>
> I?ll keep you posted.
>
> Stephen BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  3 22:40:07 2022
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2022 04:40:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] L. A. History.
References: <1932452619.7121352.1654317607998.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1932452619.7121352.1654317607998@mail.yahoo.com>

I am Facebook friends with a local historian who posts lots of then and now photos of the local area. I particularly like the electric railway / trolley car stuff and the local mountain history. Today he posted a story about a famous house in the Los Feliz neighborhood near me known as "The Castle" or "Copa de Oro", aka "Rockers Roadhouse" where a lot of musicians stayed in the '60s.? Here's the accompanying period photo.

?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun  6 21:06:26 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2022 20:06:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nice car, but ...
Message-ID: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>

Found on a forum (NFI). Looks like a really nice car, but 4th photo in 
series, of R/H side of car, looks a little off. Looks to me like the 
front wheel is set way too far back in the wheel well, like it could 
almost rub the well. Photo illusion, or?

https://www.ahexp.com/registry/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-BJ8-HBJ8L38940.58083/

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jun  6 21:17:28 2022
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2022 20:17:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nice car, but ...
In-Reply-To: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
References: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <abb1f174-f819-bbe8-a6eb-b5a7b1c9c9cf@comcast.net>

The wheel is a little turned, but looks weird.

Mike

On 6/6/2022 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Found on a forum (NFI). Looks like a really nice car, but 4th photo in 
> series, of R/H side of car, looks a little off. Looks to me like the 
> front wheel is set way too far back in the wheel well, like it could 
> almost rub the well. Photo illusion, or?
>
> https://www.ahexp.com/registry/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-BJ8-HBJ8L38940.58083/ 
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jun  6 21:51:46 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2022 20:51:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nice car, but ...
In-Reply-To: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
References: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-mADApBi1uMh2+4wdpYAZQBv6MJiO=M6=m7pxZGOU5Lw@mail.gmail.com>

Yup
Weird

On Mon, Jun 6, 2022, 8:07 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Found on a forum (NFI). Looks like a really nice car, but 4th photo in
> series, of R/H side of car, looks a little off. Looks to me like the
> front wheel is set way too far back in the wheel well, like it could
> almost rub the well. Photo illusion, or?
>
>
> https://www.ahexp.com/registry/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-BJ8-HBJ8L38940.58083/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun  6 21:54:15 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2022 20:54:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nice car, but ...
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-mADApBi1uMh2+4wdpYAZQBv6MJiO=M6=m7pxZGOU5Lw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8-mADApBi1uMh2+4wdpYAZQBv6MJiO=M6=m7pxZGOU5Lw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4715a5b4-e0d0-1326-50db-40ea1b999dac@comcast.net>

I'm wonder if the Jule frame and R&P has something to do with it?

On 6/6/2022 8:51 PM, i erbs wrote:
> Yup
> Weird
>
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2022, 8:07 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>     Found on a forum (NFI). Looks like a really nice car, but 4th
>     photo in
>     series, of R/H side of car, looks a little off. Looks to me like the
>     front wheel is set way too far back in the wheel well, like it could
>     almost rub the well. Photo illusion, or?
>
>     https://www.ahexp.com/registry/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-BJ8-HBJ8L38940.58083/
>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jun  6 22:41:17 2022
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 00:41:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nice car, but ...
In-Reply-To: <4715a5b4-e0d0-1326-50db-40ea1b999dac@comcast.net>
References: <005c9b4c-9429-8f30-edaa-74c7f98a0996@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8-mADApBi1uMh2+4wdpYAZQBv6MJiO=M6=m7pxZGOU5Lw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4715a5b4-e0d0-1326-50db-40ea1b999dac@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcr3A7_aCBkfgkLctbezXcg=uzijNPms7WGLQkCL_dFgA@mail.gmail.com>

Some more details on the history of the car here:
http://www.healeydata.com/cars/detail/?car=HBJ8L38940  I note it has alloy
fenders fitted.  If there's something wrong with the wheel well, I'd be
more likely to blame them than the frame and rack and pinion.  Could be
larger outside diameter tires fitted, too, which would add to the issue.

Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, Jun 6, 2022 at 11:58 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm wonder if the Jule frame and R&P has something to do with it?
>
> On 6/6/2022 8:51 PM, i erbs wrote:
>
> Yup
> Weird
>
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2022, 8:07 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Found on a forum (NFI). Looks like a really nice car, but 4th photo in
>> series, of R/H side of car, looks a little off. Looks to me like the
>> front wheel is set way too far back in the wheel well, like it could
>> almost rub the well. Photo illusion, or?
>>
>>
>> https://www.ahexp.com/registry/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-BJ8-HBJ8L38940.58083/
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From allan-peters at sky.com  Tue Jun  7 00:27:04 2022
From: allan-peters at sky.com (Allan Peters)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 06:27:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Tip but off  Topic
References: <198340611.163982.1654583224799.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <198340611.163982.1654583224799@mail.yahoo.com>

Had a neighbour who covered whole garden in? Decking? !!Result? large family of rats which no amount of poisons or? Traps? could? Fix ..??Solution......Block all holes but one...connect? ?Healey exhaust to remaining hole.......Run? engine for? 15 minsResult........No? ?RatsYIPPEE? !? time to sit in the Sun and enjoy a Pint of? Thatchers? Somerset? Cider? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Life is? Good



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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  7 00:49:40 2022
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 06:49:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Tip but off  Topic
In-Reply-To: <198340611.163982.1654583224799@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <198340611.163982.1654583224799.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <198340611.163982.1654583224799@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <963011139.144227.1654584580542@mail.yahoo.com>

 And ignore (if you can) the aroma of rotting rat carcass

    On Monday, June 6, 2022, 11:28:30 PM PDT, Allan Peters via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Had a neighbour who covered whole garden in? Decking? !!Result? large family of rats which no amount of poisons or? Traps? could? Fix ..??Solution......Block all holes but one...connect? ?Healey exhaust to remaining hole.......Run? engine for? 15 minsResult........No? ?RatsYIPPEE? !? time to sit in the Sun and enjoy a Pint of? Thatchers? Somerset? Cider? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Life is? Good



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Jun  7 04:49:46 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 22:49:46 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W
Message-ID: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>

Listers,

 

I need some more help.  What model does this brake slave cylinder come from?

I have three NOS on the shelf.  They are 1" bore.

I have always thought they were Hundred, but I cannot find the BMC part
number in any of my parts lists - and I've mislaid my Girling catalogue, and
don't have a 'pdf version.

 

Cheers

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 



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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Jun  7 05:00:06 2022
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 21:00:06 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W
In-Reply-To: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <009701d87a5d$befc42a0$3cf4c7e0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Mark

 

Looks like a front wheel cylinder for a steel wheel Austin-Healey, and
six-cylinder Austin sedan.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: Tuesday, 7 June 2022 8:50 PM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W

 

Listers,

 

I need some more help.  What model does this brake slave cylinder come from?

I have three NOS on the shelf.  They are 1" bore.

I have always thought they were Hundred, but I cannot find the BMC part
number in any of my parts lists - and I've mislaid my Girling catalogue, and
don't have a 'pdf version.

 

Cheers

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 





-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun  7 05:02:35 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 07:02:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W
In-Reply-To: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLGQGWUJW2R+qpuz-_s72zsSX_692aomg7wW5a6bif70Q@mail.gmail.com>

7H4584

Early BN1 RH
BN4/6 with wire wheels RH
Moss 021-149


M

On Tue., Jun. 7, 2022, 6:50 a.m. Mark Donaldson, <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

> Listers,
>
>
>
> I need some more help.  What model does this brake slave cylinder come
> from?
>
> I have three NOS on the shelf.  They are 1? bore.
>
> I have always thought they were Hundred, but I cannot find the BMC part
> number in any of my parts lists ? and I?ve mislaid my Girling catalogue,
> and don?t have a ?pdf version.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jun  7 05:11:56 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 07:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W
In-Reply-To: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <103ec71e-7d62-7a47-2492-cb821fb658cd@earthlink.net>

17H4315 is Girling part number 390333W

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/7/22 6:49 AM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I need some more help.? What model does this brake slave cylinder come 
> from?
>
> I have three NOS on the shelf.? They are 1? bore.
>
> I have always thought they were Hundred, but I cannot find the BMC 
> part number in any of my parts lists ? and I?ve mislaid my Girling 
> catalogue, and don?t have a ?pdf version.
>
> Cheers
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From alanwassermannc at gmail.com  Tue Jun  7 15:25:02 2022
From: alanwassermannc at gmail.com (Alan Wasserman)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 17:25:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 185
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1654624802.18632.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1654624802.18632.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <24B5803B-87DA-4E30-83DA-A83866815243@gmail.com>

What does all the below mean?

> On Jun 7, 2022, at 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------0beFsFq2fdVb49VjL0ImxZWW
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 2124
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8BIT
> 
> 
> --------------0beFsFq2fdVb49VjL0ImxZWW--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --00000000000094954505e0d38267
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1992
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
> 
> 
> --00000000000094954505e0d38267--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --------------f8TDPflm9gwVcB97NAmqiJ93
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1734
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
> 
> 
> --------------f8TDPflm9gwVcB97NAmqiJ93--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --000000000000c616c605e0d433b2
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 4335
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
> 
> 
> --000000000000c616c605e0d433b2--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------=_Part_163981_2125917546.1654583224798
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1442
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
> 
> 
> ------=_Part_163981_2125917546.1654583224798--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------=_Part_144226_1744802101.1654584580540
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 3133
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> 	charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
> 
> 
> ------=_Part_144226_1744802101.1654584580540--
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Alan Wasserman
alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com







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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jun  7 18:13:43 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2022 17:13:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 185
In-Reply-To: <24B5803B-87DA-4E30-83DA-A83866815243@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.4.1654624802.18632.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <24B5803B-87DA-4E30-83DA-A83866815243@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-oQ_kPxUb_A1s9bB7feVcO-+GH4QsbLQ-heshRFwuSSw@mail.gmail.com>

It is the code that a web page uses to show the page. Not sure why you were
sent it

On Tue, Jun 7, 2022, 2:25 PM Alan Wasserman <alanwassermannc at gmail.com>
wrote:

> What does all the below mean?
>
> On Jun 7, 2022, at 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>
>
>
> --------------0beFsFq2fdVb49VjL0ImxZWW
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 2124
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8BIT
>
>
> --------------0beFsFq2fdVb49VjL0ImxZWW--
>
>
>
>
>
> --00000000000094954505e0d38267
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1992
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
>
>
> --00000000000094954505e0d38267--
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------f8TDPflm9gwVcB97NAmqiJ93
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1734
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
>
>
> --------------f8TDPflm9gwVcB97NAmqiJ93--
>
>
>
>
>
> --000000000000c616c605e0d433b2
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 4335
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
>
>
> --000000000000c616c605e0d433b2--
>
>
>
>
>
> ------=_Part_163981_2125917546.1654583224798
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 1442
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
>
>
> ------=_Part_163981_2125917546.1654583224798--
>
>
>
>
>
> ------=_Part_144226_1744802101.1654584580540
> X-Apple-Content-Length: 3133
> Content-Type: TEXT/HTML;
> charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE
>
>
> ------=_Part_144226_1744802101.1654584580540--
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Alan Wasserman
> alanwassermannc at gmail.com
> 732-887-0742
> www.wassermanstudio.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Jun  7 19:38:25 2022
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2022 13:38:25 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W
In-Reply-To: <103ec71e-7d62-7a47-2492-cb821fb658cd@earthlink.net>
References: <000001d87a5c$4e16b300$ea441900$@xtra.co.nz>
 <103ec71e-7d62-7a47-2492-cb821fb658cd@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000001d87ad8$726c62a0$574527e0$@xtra.co.nz>

Thank you Bob, and Michael, and Doug.  

 

Doug found that 17H 4315 cross-referenced to 390333W and was common to Alfa-Romeos.

I also found on Google that 303310W, which is what I have, also fitted Alfas.

Michael has confirmed what the brake slave cylinder fits, and Doug has followed up with confirmation, a different BMC part number 7H 4584, and supersession numbers.

 

To muddy the water a bit more, two of my three 17H 4315 cartons contain Girling 303310W cylinders.  

The third contains Girling 303300W   So, on the face of it, different BMC and Girling numbers for the same part for our early BN1s, and wire-wheeled BN4s and BN6s.

They are all NOS in perfect condition.  We now know there is supersession, but why?  To me, they all look identical.

 

Who?d be a parts manager, eh?  ?

 

Cheers

Mark

 

Ardmore, NZ

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, 7 June 2022 11:12 PM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling wheel cylinder 303310W

 

17H4315 is Girling part number 390333W

 

Cheers,

 

Bob Haskell

Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 

On 6/7/22 6:49 AM, Mark Donaldson wrote:

> 

> Listers,

> 

> I need some more help.  What model does this brake slave cylinder come 

> from?

> 

> I have three NOS on the shelf.  They are 1? bore.

> 

> I have always thought they were Hundred, but I cannot find the BMC 

> part number in any of my parts lists ? and I?ve mislaid my Girling 

> catalogue, and don?t have a ?pdf version.

> 

> Cheers

> 

> Mark

> 

> Ardmore, NZ

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Jun 10 11:25:41 2022
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2022 13:25:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Further to exhaust
References: <254ED73B-69EF-47EB-A8E5-891FD1A1783E.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <254ED73B-69EF-47EB-A8E5-891FD1A1783E@rogers.com>

I had complained about a week ago about the leaks I found at the welds on my new stainless steel exhaust system.
To follow up- A.H. Spares has sent me a new set of down pipes and want the old ones returned so that they can go back to their supplier?I can't say fairer than that.
Of course, before I put the new ones on the car I will be checking them!

Stephen, BJ8

From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 10 20:55:38 2022
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day)
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2022 22:55:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
References: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>

I?m working on my 65 BJ-8 front calipers . Car has sat for 10 to 15 years . I?m rebuilding the calipers and I can only get one of the calipers pistons to come out. After removing the caliper I?ve applied air pressure to the inlet and I was only able to free up the outside piston . What can be done to free up the inboard piston ? 
    Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
            Thanks , Don 

Sent from my iPad

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 11 04:58:55 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 06:58:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
References: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3.ref@yahoo.com>
 <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <72d59587-e82e-faea-8815-e32a3f6fce15@earthlink.net>

Don,

I have used a small grease gun to remove stuck pistons.? I remove the 
Zerk coupler and screw the tube into the caliper's brake line hole.? Use 
a C clamp to hold the freed piston in place.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/10/22 10:55 PM, Don Day via Healeys wrote:
> I?m working on my 65 BJ-8 front calipers . Car has sat for 10 to 15 years . I?m rebuilding the calipers and I can only get one of the calipers pistons to come out. After removing the caliper I?ve applied air pressure to the inlet and I was only able to free up the outside piston . What can be done to free up the inboard piston ?
>      Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>              Thanks , Don
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 11 06:08:11 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:08:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
References: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990@aol.com>

Don
I found a tool years ago that really helps getting the pistons loose. Example shown below. The ability to turn the piston in the bore seems to do the trick. Recommend spraying brake cleaner on the parts first. 
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jun 11 06:35:28 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:35:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990@aol.com>
References: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990.ref@aol.com>
 <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ5rxujDmWrX4QHYUrLrmMJdEVg7avbswL7JjDqYJ+Ubw@mail.gmail.com>

For really seized caliper pistons I use this ... them a grease gun as a
last resort.

On Sat., Jun. 11, 2022, 8:08 a.m. Perry Small via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Don
> I found a tool years ago that really helps getting the pistons loose.
> Example shown below. The ability to turn the piston in the bore seems to do
> the trick. Recommend spraying brake cleaner on the parts first.
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jun 11 06:42:16 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:42:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
References: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3.ref@yahoo.com>
 <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+bJGmiFRwoRaj2rfS5VDvjFMgxAnGPVxj_u0fibBUmXw@mail.gmail.com>

Another trick is put the piston that did come out back in, place a heavy
bar in the disc slot to prevent the loose piston from coming out then apply
air pressure.  That ensures that the reluctant piston receives full
pressure.
The tool in the pic attached is stage 2 if that doesn't work ... grease gun.

M

On Fri., Jun. 10, 2022, 10:55 p.m. Don Day via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m working on my 65 BJ-8 front calipers . Car has sat for 10 to 15 years
> . I?m rebuilding the calipers and I can only get one of the calipers
> pistons to come out. After removing the caliper I?ve applied air pressure
> to the inlet and I was only able to free up the outside piston . What can
> be done to free up the inboard piston ?
>     Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>             Thanks , Don
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Jun 11 06:52:53 2022
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:52:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <72d59587-e82e-faea-8815-e32a3f6fce15@earthlink.net>
References: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3.ref@yahoo.com>
 <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
 <72d59587-e82e-faea-8815-e32a3f6fce15@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <176586809.260432.1654951975800@epix.net>

What?s going on with the List?  I?ve been getting messages with the subject header but no text.

Sarah Carr
Ex-BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows

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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Jun 11 07:11:25 2022
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 13:11:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <mailman.778.1654950946.15283.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.778.1654950946.15283.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <878992061.2867816.1654953085435@mail.yahoo.com>

What worked for me was to remove the caliper from the car, reconnect it to its brake pipe and press the brake pedal. You have a great source of power built in to the car! You lose a bit of fluid of course.
Mike B56 BN2 with 3000 mk1 front discs.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, 11 Jun 2022 at 13:54, healeys-request at autox.team.net<healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:   Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. Front caliper rebuilds (Don Day)
? 2. Re: Front caliper rebuilds (Bob Haskell)
? 3. Front caliper rebuilds (Perry Small)
? 4. Re: Front caliper rebuilds (Michael Salter)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2022 22:55:38 -0400
From: Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>
To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
Message-ID: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3 at yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I?m working on my 65 BJ-8 front calipers . Car has sat for 10 to 15 years . I?m rebuilding the calipers and I can only get one of the calipers pistons to come out. After removing the caliper I?ve applied air pressure to the inlet and I was only able to free up the outside piston . What can be done to free up the inboard piston ? 
? ? Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
? ? ? ? ? ? Thanks , Don 

Sent from my iPad


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 06:58:55 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>, healey list
??? <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
Message-ID: <72d59587-e82e-faea-8815-e32a3f6fce15 at earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Don,

I have used a small grease gun to remove stuck pistons.? I remove the 
Zerk coupler and screw the tube into the caliper's brake line hole.? Use 
a C clamp to hold the freed piston in place.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/10/22 10:55 PM, Don Day via Healeys wrote:
> I?m working on my 65 BJ-8 front calipers . Car has sat for 10 to 15 years . I?m rebuilding the calipers and I can only get one of the calipers pistons to come out. After removing the caliper I?ve applied air pressure to the inlet and I was only able to free up the outside piston . What can be done to free up the inboard piston ?
>? ? ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>? ? ? ? ? ? ? Thanks , Don
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:08:11 -0400
From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
Message-ID: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Don
I found a tool years ago that really helps getting the pistons loose. Example shown below. The ability to turn the piston in the bore seems to do the trick. Recommend spraying brake cleaner on the parts first. 
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 08:35:28 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Don Day <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com>, AH Mail List
??? <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
Message-ID:
??? <CAB3i7LJ5rxujDmWrX4QHYUrLrmMJdEVg7avbswL7JjDqYJ+Ubw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

For really seized caliper pistons I use this ... them a grease gun as a
last resort.

On Sat., Jun. 11, 2022, 8:08 a.m. Perry Small via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Don
> I found a tool years ago that really helps getting the pistons loose.
> Example shown below. The ability to turn the piston in the bore seems to do
> the trick. Recommend spraying brake cleaner on the parts first.
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

archives:? http://autox.team.net/archive



------------------------------

End of Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 188
****************************************
  
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 11 07:36:53 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 09:36:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990@aol.com>
References: <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990.ref@aol.com>
 <5D00BFBA-4E3D-4509-A31E-0BC095A95990@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3b65bf3f-acd6-b962-0d5a-a85e7ac7a73e@earthlink.net>

Perry,

Thanks for the info about a tool that I don't own yet.? I did a search 
on ebay for brake piston puller and most items were either the one you 
showed or a similar one shipped from China. Both for motorcycles.? The 
one you showed is made by bikemasters and their website says that it's 
suitable for pistons with outside diameters from 19 to 38 mm. It would 
make more sense if bikemasters gave the range of inside diameters it 
worked with. The piston fitted to the early AH brake calipers are 48 mm 
OD. Don't know what the OD of the piston fitted to the later BJ8s is. 
But you've found it to work with both?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/11/22 8:08 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
> Don
> I found a tool years ago that really helps getting the pistons loose. Example shown below. The ability to turn the piston in the bore seems to do the trick. Recommend spraying brake cleaner on the parts first.
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jun 11 11:58:30 2022
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2022 11:58:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Front caliper rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <176586809.260432.1654951975800@epix.net>
References: <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3.ref@yahoo.com>
 <EEC719C3-FC2A-4EFF-9567-DB97F31E52D3@yahoo.com>
 <72d59587-e82e-faea-8815-e32a3f6fce15@earthlink.net>
 <176586809.260432.1654951975800@epix.net>
Message-ID: <3d53ebed-735a-61f1-d9d8-bf00138931b9@bradakis.com>


On 6/11/22 6:52 AM, S.Carr wrote:
>
> What?s going on with the List?? I?ve been getting messages with the 
> subject header but no text.
>
>

As far as I can tell, there is nothing wrong on the server end. I am 
getting the full emails just fine.

mjb.

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Jun 13 13:54:26 2022
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 15:54:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>

Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe! 
I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun 13 15:50:18 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 17:50:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>

I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so
terrible.
I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New
Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the
correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I
weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that
has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild
steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could
do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed
but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.

M

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
> The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to
> the trouble of putting them on the car.
> Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both
> leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
> I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say
> they can't weld stainless.
> If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please
> let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 13 15:55:25 2022
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 21:55:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years anyway.

Jean

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Cc: healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so terrible.
I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.

M

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com<mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>> wrote:
Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From bob.engdahl64 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 13 16:01:34 2022
From: bob.engdahl64 at gmail.com (Bob Engdahl)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 17:01:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale
Message-ID: <CAKbOOECbESu7+2=hjX6nLX=2okneQD+fZRa-UkeK6uxAFkhrCA@mail.gmail.com>

It is time. I have a restored 64 BJ8 that has not been driven since
restoration. Everything is new. I am asking $60K. Please respond to email
for history and pictures. Thanks, Bob
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun 13 16:03:50 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 18:03:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJT+BAP1MVY_UZ286F_AbT-LnM_CxyGjRTfcHwJZJAdKg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Jean absolutely true. It's salt that kills exhaust systems although the
VERY thin steel that the flex pipes are formed from doesn't last that long
even without salt.
Mild steel pipe with stainless flex is a perfectly satisfactory solution.

M

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 5:55 p.m. Jean Caron, <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the
> need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years
> anyway.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
> *To:* Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> *Cc:* healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>
> I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so
> terrible.
> I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New
> Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the
> correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I
> weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
> I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that
> has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
> I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild
> steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could
> do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
> BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed
> but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <
> s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>
> Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
> The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to
> the trouble of putting them on the car.
> Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both
> leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
> I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say
> they can't weld stainless.
> If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please
> let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C01%7C%7C63dcfe2859a34db77e6e08da4d86ce5f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637907538628771579%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=NTtSrESxh9FrB6%2F25lZrtGEgs90s6KuA%2FN6ilbAUHeE%3D&reserved=0>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 13 16:05:19 2022
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 22:05:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJT+BAP1MVY_UZ286F_AbT-LnM_CxyGjRTfcHwJZJAdKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJT+BAP1MVY_UZ286F_AbT-LnM_CxyGjRTfcHwJZJAdKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB60788B0848F8157062AD4AACD1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

True.

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 5:03:50 PM
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Cc: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>; healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

Yes Jean absolutely true. It's salt that kills exhaust systems although the VERY thin steel that the flex pipes are formed from doesn't last that long even without salt.
Mild steel pipe with stainless flex is a perfectly satisfactory solution.

M

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 5:55 p.m. Jean Caron, <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:
With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years anyway.

Jean

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com<mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>>
Cc: healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so terrible.
I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.

M

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com<mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>> wrote:
Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C01%7C%7Cb1f305b15e744861de9d08da4d88a151%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637907546466405150%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Um4rA1bZuAeH8rPQfMJdsnyEsULadMFwO4is7xmSvJ4%3D&reserved=0>
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Jun 13 17:10:10 2022
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 19:10:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJT+BAP1MVY_UZ286F_AbT-LnM_CxyGjRTfcHwJZJAdKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJT+BAP1MVY_UZ286F_AbT-LnM_CxyGjRTfcHwJZJAdKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4058610-F38E-4C1D-B1B9-E82ED20F3662@rogers.com>

Well, this is all grist for the mill. I already have the stainless system, so that?s what I?m working with.
My old stainless system lasted me almost 35 years.
Thanks for the thoughts and advice.

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 13, 2022, at 6:03 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Yes Jean absolutely true. It's salt that kills exhaust systems although the VERY thin steel that the flex pipes are formed from doesn't last that long even without salt. 
> Mild steel pipe with stainless flex is a perfectly satisfactory solution. 
> 
> M
> 
> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 5:55 p.m. Jean Caron, <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:
> With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years anyway.
> 
> Jean
> 
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
> Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
> To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com <mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>>
> Cc: healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>  
> I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so terrible. 
> I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder. 
> I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
> I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
> BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.
> 
> M
> 
> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com <mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>> wrote:
> Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
> The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
> Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe! 
> I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
> If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.
> 
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C01%7C%7C63dcfe2859a34db77e6e08da4d86ce5f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637907538628771579%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=NTtSrESxh9FrB6%2F25lZrtGEgs90s6KuA%2FN6ilbAUHeE%3D&reserved=0>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C01%7C%7C63dcfe2859a34db77e6e08da4d86ce5f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637907538628771579%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=WdCQop4xPQBIkudWiDAMpZSKb99UiBQJvVCdZcmkFRQ%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C01%7C%7C63dcfe2859a34db77e6e08da4d86ce5f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637907538628771579%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=u93Q%2FzpMVQimcSo%2FgOEzzGyerXO7HZikJb0gvMq1dzc%3D&reserved=0>
> 
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> 
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jun 13 17:33:26 2022
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 16:33:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?SS_exhaust?=
Message-ID: <20220613233326.38220.qmail@server278.com>

when my mild steel flex tubing stopped flexing and cracked in places, i ordered some SS flex pipe from JC Whitney and had 
my neighbor TIG weld the flex to the mild steel.  took a long time but no leaks and i still have the sound i like.  this exhaust 
has been on the car since 1987.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 13 17:38:19 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2022 16:38:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>

In other climes, like sunny--i.e. hot and desperately dry--California 
salt isn't an issue, but quick trips to the corner 7-11 for a sixer are. 
Condensation from the engine exhaust pools in the low spots, and the 
pipes don't get hot enough to boil it out on short trips--think of the 
white 'smoke' coming from cars on cold mornings--and MS exhausts rust 
out from the inside. Since most of us don't use our Healeys for such 
mundane tasks (except for emergencies) SS isn't really ever needed, and 
you'll probably bash your exhaust to bits and rattles before it rusts. 
Plus, I think most 'performance' exhausts are a type of (fiber) 
'glasspack,' and you'll blow the 'glass' out in a few years.

I bought an Ansa exhaust for my BJ8 shortly after I bought it some 38 
years ago, and its pipes live on. Even though they made my car sound 
like a 6-cyl Ferrari, I'd love to get another set. Michael 
Lempert--maker of gorgeous steering wheels--considered building his own 
version but, unfortunately didn't proceed.


On 6/13/2022 2:55 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
> With the few miles we put on our cars each year? I simply cannot see 
> the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 
> + years anyway.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael 
> Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
> *To:* Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> *Cc:* healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
> I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so 
> terrible.
> I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in 
> New Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to 
> the correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this 
> email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
> I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe 
> that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted 
> roads.
> I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in 
> mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless 
> Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
> BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first 
> installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill 
> with carbon.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, 
> <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>
>     Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free
>     exhaust.
>     The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before
>     going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
>     Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes
>     both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
>     I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler
>     shops say they can't weld stainless.
>     If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work,
>     please let me know.
>
>     Thanks,
>     Stephen, BJ8
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jun 13 22:11:47 2022
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 04:11:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR20MB4444639105F79FF24CF93070A5AA9@SA1PR20MB4444.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Look for a metal fab shop. Most exhaust shops think TIG stands for Time in Grade?

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 7:54 PM
To: healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Jun 14 05:55:56 2022
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 07:55:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01e401d87fe5$b4f6ef70$1ee4ce50$@gmail.com>

40 plus years ago when I bought my 67 Healey, I purchased a stainless steel exhaust package from Moss and never had a problem with the system. They must have had a good supplier then.  However, it spent a lot of time in the garage as I traveled around the world selling Stuff.  When we bought our retirement home in Florida in 2009 the Healey was trucked there,  has lived in our garage and spent lots of miles on the road until the engine was pulled and rebuilt 3 summers ago.  At that time, I looked carefully at the exhaust system and found no cracks or rust.  By the way, I did not like to see the ss pipes and mufflers under the car, so I painted them heat resistant black years ago.  After a power wash, I repainted them again with heat resistant black paint before reinstalling.  

 

The only repair was the hangers in some cases had separated from the rubber, so I drilled a hole in both the hanger and the rubber and installed SS screws in all of them to hold them together a trick I learned from this forum several years ago.

 

Yes, the flex pipes and the connections were leaking exhaust for the first 1,000 miles and slowly quieted down as I used exhaust pipe compound when assembling the system. Otherwise, they are fine.  Unfortunately, the exhaust sound is not that of a Ferrari. I believe there is nothing in the muffler or the resonator which gives the car a nice rap when shifting gears.  Maybe my exhaust system will last another 10 or 20 years in Florida.  Oh yes, while I do go to the 7/11 from time to time, fill up the tank, I turn on to the Tamiami Trail where in a few miles I can be up to 65 MPH and the engine is hot all the time for a 40-mile round trip in the county.  Keeps the old girl happy and me also.

 

The old girl is up on the rack with high pressure in the tires and sleeping in the Florida garage for the summer presently while I am enjoying cooler temperatures and sailing in Lake Michigan.

 

Best regards to all, 

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

 

In other climes, like sunny--i.e. hot and desperately dry--California salt isn't an issue, but quick trips to the corner 7-11 for a sixer are. Condensation from the engine exhaust pools in the low spots, and the pipes don't get hot enough to boil it out on short trips--think of the white 'smoke' coming from cars on cold mornings--and MS exhausts rust out from the inside. Since most of us don't use our Healeys for such mundane tasks (except for emergencies) SS isn't really ever needed, and you'll probably bash your exhaust to bits and rattles before it rusts. Plus, I think most 'performance' exhausts are a type of (fiber) 'glasspack,' and you'll blow the 'glass' out in a few years.

I bought an Ansa exhaust for my BJ8 shortly after I bought it some 38 years ago, and its pipes live on. Even though they made my car sound like a 6-cyl Ferrari, I'd love to get another set. Michael Lempert--maker of gorgeous steering wheels--considered building his own version but, unfortunately didn't proceed.



On 6/13/2022 2:55 PM, Jean Caron wrote:

With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years anyway.

 

Jean

 

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.

  _____  

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter  <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings  <mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com> <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Cc: healey Mail List  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again 

 

I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so terrible.  

I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder. 

I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.

I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.

BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.

 

M

 

On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com <mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com> > wrote:

Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to the trouble of putting them on the car.
Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe! 
I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say they can't weld stainless.
If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please let me know.

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 14 09:06:34 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 08:06:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <01e401d87fe5$b4f6ef70$1ee4ce50$@gmail.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>
 <01e401d87fe5$b4f6ef70$1ee4ce50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <419fc62f-acc8-db39-b566-60440b3282ee@comcast.net>

I think the Ansa/Ferrari sound is attributable somewhat to the chrome 
tips, which are essentially little glasspack mufflers.


On 6/14/2022 4:55 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>
> 40 plus years ago when I bought my 67 Healey, I purchased a stainless 
> steel exhaust package from Moss and never had a problem with the 
> system. They must have had a good supplier then. ?However, it spent a 
> lot of time in the garage as I traveled around the world selling 
> Stuff.? When we bought our retirement home in Florida in 2009 the 
> Healey was trucked there, ?has lived in our garage and spent lots of 
> miles on the road until the engine was pulled and rebuilt 3 summers 
> ago.? At that time, I looked carefully at the exhaust system and found 
> no cracks or rust.? By the way, I did not like to see the ss pipes and 
> mufflers under the car, so I painted them heat resistant black years 
> ago.? After a power wash, I repainted them again with heat resistant 
> black paint before reinstalling.
>
> The only repair was the hangers in some cases had separated from the 
> rubber, so I drilled a hole in both the hanger and the rubber and 
> installed SS screws in all of them to hold them together a trick I 
> learned from this forum several years ago.
>
> Yes, the flex pipes and the connections were leaking exhaust for the 
> first 1,000 miles and slowly quieted down as I used exhaust pipe 
> compound when assembling the system. Otherwise, they are fine.? 
> Unfortunately, the exhaust sound is not that of a Ferrari. I believe 
> there is nothing in the muffler or the resonator which gives the car a 
> nice rap when shifting gears.? Maybe my exhaust system will last 
> another 10 or 20 years in Florida.? Oh yes, while I do go to the 7/11 
> from time to time, fill up the tank, I turn on to the Tamiami Trail 
> where in a few miles I can be up to 65 MPH and the engine is hot all 
> the time for a 40-mile round trip in the county.? Keeps the old girl 
> happy and me also.
>
> The old girl is up on the rack with high pressure in the tires and 
> sleeping in the Florida garage for the summer presently while I am 
> enjoying cooler temperatures and sailing in Lake Michigan.
>
> Best regards to all,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jun 14 09:49:49 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 15:49:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <419fc62f-acc8-db39-b566-60440b3282ee@comcast.net>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>
 <01e401d87fe5$b4f6ef70$1ee4ce50$@gmail.com>
 <419fc62f-acc8-db39-b566-60440b3282ee@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1462194292.3604700.1655221789194@mail.yahoo.com>

I too bought a BJ8 49 years ago and it came with Ansa. ?The innards were blown out after not too many years so it became essentially a straight exhaust. ?Finally replaced the pipes from mufflers on back and badly deteriorated resonator. ?But kept the Ansa tips (with decal) and had them added to the new pipes. ?It goes now from muffler straight back on left side. ?Sounds a bit different but I like it.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: rfbegani at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 11:06 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

 I think the Ansa/Ferrari sound is attributable somewhat to the chrome tips, which are essentially little glasspack mufflers.
 
 
 On 6/14/2022 4:55 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
  
 
 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6542438087 p.yiv6542438087MsoNormal, #yiv6542438087 li.yiv6542438087MsoNormal, #yiv6542438087 div.yiv6542438087MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv6542438087 a:link, #yiv6542438087 span.yiv6542438087MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6542438087 span.yiv6542438087EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv6542438087 .yiv6542438087MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv6542438087 div.yiv6542438087WordSection1 {} 40 plus years ago when I bought my 67 Healey, I purchased a stainless steel exhaust package from Moss and never had a problem with the system. They must have had a good supplier then. ?However, it spent a lot of time in the garage as I traveled around the world selling Stuff.? When we bought our retirement home in Florida in 2009 the Healey was trucked there, ?has lived in our garage and spent lots of miles on the road until the engine was pulled and rebuilt 3 summers ago.? At that time, I looked carefully at the exhaust system and found no cracks or rust.? By the way, I did not like to see the ss pipes and mufflers under the car, so I painted them heat resistant black years ago.? After a power wash, I repainted them again with heat resistant black paint before reinstalling.?   ? The only repair was the hangers in some cases had separated from the rubber, so I drilled a hole in both the hanger and the rubber and installed SS screws in all of them to hold them together a trick I learned from this forum several years ago.  ? Yes, the flex pipes and the connections were leaking exhaust for the first 1,000 miles and slowly quieted down as I used exhaust pipe compound when assembling the system. Otherwise, they are fine.? Unfortunately, the exhaust sound is not that of a Ferrari. I believe there is nothing in the muffler or the resonator which gives the car a nice rap when shifting gears.? Maybe my exhaust system will last another 10 or 20 years in Florida.? Oh yes, while I do go to the 7/11 from time to time, fill up the tank, I turn on to the Tamiami Trail where in a few miles I can be up to 65 MPH and the engine is hot all the time for a 40-mile round trip in the county.? Keeps the old girl happy and me also.  ? The old girl is up on the rack with high pressure in the tires and sleeping in the Florida garage for the summer presently while I am enjoying cooler temperatures and sailing in Lake Michigan.  ? Best regards to all,   ? Bob Begani  ? 
  
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jun 14 12:12:16 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 14:12:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT
Message-ID: <3bbb5d05-5fe3-e00f-dea3-86bd0ce06d5c@earthlink.net>

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Jun 14 12:32:52 2022
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 14:32:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <1462194292.3604700.1655221789194@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <a40978db-8bde-b3c0-92b1-550c34639199@comcast.net>
 <01e401d87fe5$b4f6ef70$1ee4ce50$@gmail.com>
 <419fc62f-acc8-db39-b566-60440b3282ee@comcast.net>
 <1462194292.3604700.1655221789194@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfjC8AtHytuZenYfNxgF-hM202NUGcyqcb7rWpeN9xsfg@mail.gmail.com>

For those of you who fondly reminisce over those ANSA tips with resonators,
feast your eyes.  When I built my Nasty Boy, I really wanted it to look
more or less like a stock Healey, which ruled out a single pipe coming out
of each side at the rear.  The solution was to bring the exhaust from the
right bank of the V8 under the rear shroud and join the left side to
replicate the dual pipes of the Healey.  Of course. the pipes are larger
than a stock Healey, so the solution was to make it look like it had an
ANSA exhaust.  I found some NOS ANSA tips here:
https://maseraticompound.com/collections/ansa-exhaust-tips-and-parts  I
think the illusion works well, but it all goes to hell when I fire up the
motor.  And no, it doesn't sound like a Ferrari, but it does sound a lot
like the Mustang Steve McQueen drove in Bullitt.  We all have our
fantasies.  [image: IMG_1626.jpg][image: IMG_1625.jpg]

Rick Neville

On Tue, Jun 14, 2022 at 11:51 AM llennep--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I too bought a BJ8 49 years ago and it came with Ansa.  The innards were
> blown out after not too many years so it became essentially a straight
> exhaust.  Finally replaced the pipes from mufflers on back and badly
> deteriorated resonator.  But kept the Ansa tips (with decal) and had them
> added to the new pipes.  It goes now from muffler straight back on left
> side.  Sounds a bit different but I like it.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 11:06 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>
> I think the Ansa/Ferrari sound is attributable somewhat to the chrome
> tips, which are essentially little glasspack mufflers.
>
>
> On 6/14/2022 4:55 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>
> 40 plus years ago when I bought my 67 Healey, I purchased a stainless
> steel exhaust package from Moss and never had a problem with the system.
> They must have had a good supplier then.  However, it spent a lot of time
> in the garage as I traveled around the world selling Stuff.  When we bought
> our retirement home in Florida in 2009 the Healey was trucked there,  has
> lived in our garage and spent lots of miles on the road until the engine
> was pulled and rebuilt 3 summers ago.  At that time, I looked carefully at
> the exhaust system and found no cracks or rust.  By the way, I did not like
> to see the ss pipes and mufflers under the car, so I painted them heat
> resistant black years ago.  After a power wash, I repainted them again with
> heat resistant black paint before reinstalling.
>
> The only repair was the hangers in some cases had separated from the
> rubber, so I drilled a hole in both the hanger and the rubber and installed
> SS screws in all of them to hold them together a trick I learned from this
> forum several years ago.
>
> Yes, the flex pipes and the connections were leaking exhaust for the first
> 1,000 miles and slowly quieted down as I used exhaust pipe compound when
> assembling the system. Otherwise, they are fine.  Unfortunately, the
> exhaust sound is not that of a Ferrari. I believe there is nothing in the
> muffler or the resonator which gives the car a nice rap when shifting
> gears.  Maybe my exhaust system will last another 10 or 20 years in
> Florida.  Oh yes, while I do go to the 7/11 from time to time, fill up the
> tank, I turn on to the Tamiami Trail where in a few miles I can be up to 65
> MPH and the engine is hot all the time for a 40-mile round trip in the
> county.  Keeps the old girl happy and me also.
>
> The old girl is up on the rack with high pressure in the tires and
> sleeping in the Florida garage for the summer presently while I am enjoying
> cooler temperatures and sailing in Lake Michigan.
>
> Best regards to all,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jun 14 15:06:50 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 21:06:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT
In-Reply-To: <3bbb5d05-5fe3-e00f-dea3-86bd0ce06d5c@earthlink.net>
References: <3bbb5d05-5fe3-e00f-dea3-86bd0ce06d5c@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <620483159.3787502.1655240810411@mail.yahoo.com>

Is the carmine red that dark?


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 2:12 pm
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

  https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
 -- 
Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 14 17:29:14 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 23:29:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT
Message-ID: <fe56cd35b27afa9f45aa8d4bb0808d593dfdd0c2@webmail>

I commented in the auction on that same point and seller put up a
photo which I also located on the M-Registry. It is still too nice of
a paint job for the era.  Donald Healey said they put on just enough
paint to cover the primer. Carmine red was "dull" red and to the
orange, wear as Reno Red was richer and bluer. Most of the later cars
were painted with Reno Red. This one is a bit rare, being an early
Lemans with the old paint pallet. Hank, Healey Helper

	-----------------------------------------From: "llennep--- via
Healeys" 
To: "rchaskell at earthlink.net", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday June 14 2022 2:07:33PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

  Is the carmine red that dark?

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Bob Haskell 
 To: Healey List 
 Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 2:12 pm
 Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

  
[1]https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[2]
 -- 
 Cheers,

 Bob Haskell
 Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] 
[7]http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [8]

Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
[12]

  

Links:
------
[1]
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[2]
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[3] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jun 14 17:30:14 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 23:30:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT
In-Reply-To: <620483159.3787502.1655240810411@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <3bbb5d05-5fe3-e00f-dea3-86bd0ce06d5c@earthlink.net>
 <620483159.3787502.1655240810411@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1313530147.2188150.1655249415092@mail.yahoo.com>

Quick answer is no.? Carmine is more like this photo. Hard to take a photo that captures the true color.?Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: rchaskell at earthlink.net <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 5:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

Is the carmine red that dark?


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 2:12 pm
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

  https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
 -- 
Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 14 17:51:45 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 23:51:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT
Message-ID: <7955b907d65f8e8d5152074ef9946dcfe0a6bb51@webmail>

Here are two photos of the exact same car, in a different light. FC177
is on the M Registry. Perry has the color nailed. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "healeyguy--- via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net", "rchaskell at earthlink.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday June 14 2022 4:30:52PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

   Quick answer is no. Carmine is more like this photo. Hard to take a
photo that captures the true color. Perry

 -----Original Message-----
 From: llennep--- via Healeys 
 To: rchaskell at earthlink.net ; healeys at autox.team.net 
 Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 5:06 pm
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

    Is the carmine red that dark?

  -----Original Message-----
 From: Bob Haskell 
 To: Healey List 
 Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2022 2:12 pm
 Subject: [Healeys] First 100M on BAT

   
[1]https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[2]
 -- 
 Cheers,

 Bob Haskell
 Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar  
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] 
[7]http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [8]

Healeys at autox.team.net
 [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10]

 Unsubscribe/Manage:  
[11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
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    _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [13]http://www.team.net/donate.html [14]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [15]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [16] 
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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[22]

    

Links:
------
[1]
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[2]
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-19/
[3] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[4] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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[14] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Jun 15 20:33:29 2022
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2022 22:33:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
Message-ID: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of
overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt
opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to
operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever
to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to
screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in
so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the
end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in
figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in
3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g'box cover off to look at it yet but
thought I'd ask the list if anyone had encountered this.  

 

Thoughts and ideas?

 

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun 15 21:21:47 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2022 20:21:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <7c7c09b1-7986-b48c-b036-3927a44b16fa@comcast.net>

The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which 
are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses 
against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the 
lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If 
you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner 
one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited 
travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a 
new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is 
a worn shift rod (they're brass).



On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping 
> out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.? This is 
> without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only 
> permits the O/D to operate in 3^rd and 4^th thus causing the O/D to 
> disengage.? Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not 
> recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I 
> think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far. ?I am not sure 
> what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch 
> to engage it.? The workshop manual is not much help in figuring it 
> out.? Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3^rd or 
> 4^th ?? ?I have not had the g?box cover off to look at it yet but 
> thought I?d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.
>
> Thoughts and ideas?
>
>
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From kags at shaw.ca  Wed Jun 15 23:01:46 2022
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2022 22:01:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <7c7c09b1-7986-b48c-b036-3927a44b16fa@comcast.net>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
 <7c7c09b1-7986-b48c-b036-3927a44b16fa@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001d8813e$2f0fa6e0$8d2ef4a0$@shaw.ca>

Hi Marek.  Had the same thing happen to me years ago on my BJ8. Same design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the side shifts ? same switch part# for all.  Bob is right ? the switch setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer as a shim.  The ball end activator on the switch wears with mileage ? the switch has to be moved a bit inward to make up for the wear.  A thinner washer (or maybe even no washer) will do the trick. As Bob says, just don?t jam it.

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2022 8:22 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

 

The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).




On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>  wrote:

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g?box cover off to look at it yet but thought I?d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.  

 

Thoughts and ideas?

 

 

 

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Jun 16 05:41:30 2022
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 07:41:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <000001d8813e$2f0fa6e0$8d2ef4a0$@shaw.ca>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
 <7c7c09b1-7986-b48c-b036-3927a44b16fa@comcast.net>
 <000001d8813e$2f0fa6e0$8d2ef4a0$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <000501d88176$05b0b360$11121a20$@sympatico.ca>

Thanks Earl/Bob ? I was hoping the switch would be adjustable.  I will find time to get the g?box cover off (ugh!) and adjust it.  I have another g?box, so if that does not work I can ?switch? some parts ?.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca> 
Sent: June 16, 2022 1:02 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

 

Hi Marek.  Had the same thing happen to me years ago on my BJ8. Same design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the side shifts ? same switch part# for all.  Bob is right ? the switch setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer as a shim.  The ball end activator on the switch wears with mileage ? the switch has to be moved a bit inward to make up for the wear.  A thinner washer (or maybe even no washer) will do the trick. As Bob says, just don?t jam it.

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2022 8:22 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

 

The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).



On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>  wrote:

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g?box cover off to look at it yet but thought I?d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.  

 

Thoughts and ideas?

 

 

 

 

 


 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free.  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun 16 05:55:04 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 07:55:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+N6SoLpCeMR3_MdiSzP5HpzE3kpNK1vc=Ajo0NOtsmgQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which are
used for adjustment.
Most are fitted with 1 washer but occasionally you will find 2.
Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the gearbox
which should resolve your issue.
If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement switch. The
switches available from the usual suspects seem to be quite reliable.

M

On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of
> overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt
> opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to
> operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the
> lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the
> switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will
> only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually
> bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not
> much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears
> on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g?box cover off to look at it
> yet but thought I?d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.
>
>
>
> Thoughts and ideas?
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Jun 16 08:19:47 2022
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 10:19:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+N6SoLpCeMR3_MdiSzP5HpzE3kpNK1vc=Ajo0NOtsmgQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAB3i7L+N6SoLpCeMR3_MdiSzP5HpzE3kpNK1vc=Ajo0NOtsmgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001301d8818c$229ed9f0$67dc8dd0$@sympatico.ca>

Thanks Mike,  I might take the switch off the other g?box first and try it.  However, given that the switch has a steel ball on the end which engages onto the brass shift fork, I suspect it is the brass that wears.  So unless the replacement switches are a smidgen longer, I don?t see how that would change things.  Anyhow, I know what the problem is, so when I have it apart I will figure out a solution.

 

Thanks,  Mirek

 

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: June 16, 2022 7:55 AM
To: Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

 

Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which are used for adjustment. 

Most are fitted with 1 washer but occasionally you will find 2.

Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the gearbox which should resolve your issue.

If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement switch. The switches available from the usual suspects seem to be quite reliable.

 

M

 

On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> > wrote:

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g?box cover off to look at it yet but thought I?d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.  

 

Thoughts and ideas?

 

 

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 16 10:09:36 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 09:09:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+arVokfPRfjwqr-_1BXwtzycLquCDrftzb6NLRN-b4QQ@mail.gmail.com>

When you park the car after a long drive, water will collect in a mild
steel exhaust system and relatively quickly the welds in the internal
baffles on the silencer will corrode and break away. So whether you drive
the car or not the silencers corrode internally.  having SS silencers is a
good idea.  pipes can be mild steel and they will last forever.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2022 at 2:56 PM, Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the
> need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years
> anyway.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
> *To:* Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> *Cc:* healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>
> I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so
> terrible.
> I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New
> Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the
> correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I
> weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
> I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe that
> has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted roads.
> I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild
> steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could
> do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
> BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed
> but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <
> s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>
> Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
> The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to
> the trouble of putting them on the car.
> Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both
> leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
> I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say
> they can't weld stainless.
> If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please
> let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 16 10:23:09 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 16:23:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
Message-ID: <c29c89ee541c88742d5bc7882be0123a8aa04395@webmail>

Here is what happens to a mild steel resonator after a few years of
sitting with water inside or hot/cold pipe driving conditions. Keep
spares, or go for stainless, and loose the sound effect. I blame this
one on covid. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist" 
To: "Jean Caron"
Cc: "healey Mail List"
Sent: Thursday June 16 2022 9:10:27AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again

 When you park the car after a long drive, water will collect in a
mild steel exhaust system and relatively quickly the welds in the
internal baffles on the silencer will corrode and break away. So
whether you drive the car or not the silencers corrode internally.
having SS silencers is a good idea. pipes can be mild steel and they
will last forever. 
 On Mon, 13 Jun 2022 at 2:56 PM, Jean Caron  wrote:
   With the few miles we put on our cars each year I simply cannot see
the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20
+ years anyway. 
 Jean 
 Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network. 
-------------------------
FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Michael Salter 
SENT: Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
TO: Stephen Hutchings 
CC: healey Mail List 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again       I make my own
front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so terrible. I use
mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New
Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the
correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this
email, I weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
 I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe
that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted
roads. I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for
you in mild steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB
Stainless Welding could do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for
Frank. BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first
installed but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill
with carbon. 
 M  
 On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings,  wrote:
  Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free
exhaust.
 The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going
to the trouble of putting them on the car.
 Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes
both leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
 I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler
shops say they can't weld stainless.
 If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work,
please let me know.

 Thanks,
 Stephen, BJ8
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 16 10:29:37 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 09:29:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+arVokfPRfjwqr-_1BXwtzycLquCDrftzb6NLRN-b4QQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTk+arVokfPRfjwqr-_1BXwtzycLquCDrftzb6NLRN-b4QQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507dd4f1-4391-2400-c6bd-a38c852705a9@comcast.net>

Side topic: Anyone know, for sure, what type the OEM mufflers were; i.e. 
'glasspack,' 'turbo' (baffles) or a third type I recall someone 
explaining but I can't recall what they're called?

The OEM mufflers (I think) I've heard had a mild, apologetic sound; i.e. 
'Sorry, old chap, but I must make some sound to get these obnoxious 
gases out of my system.'


On 6/16/2022 9:09 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> When you park the car after a long drive, water will collect in a mild 
> steel exhaust system and relatively quickly the welds in the internal 
> baffles on the silencer will corrode and break away. So whether you 
> drive the car or not the silencers corrode internally. ?having SS 
> silencers is a good idea. ?pipes can be mild steel and they will last 
> forever.
>
> On Mon, 13 Jun 2022 at 2:56 PM, Jean Caron 
> <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>     With the few miles we put on our cars each year? I simply cannot
>     see the need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will
>     last 20 + years anyway.
>
>     Jean
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 16 13:12:47 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 12:12:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <c29c89ee541c88742d5bc7882be0123a8aa04395@webmail>
References: <c29c89ee541c88742d5bc7882be0123a8aa04395@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+9vuXv4aHaXO-1uUJSQDufa0BUfpOW-XaZOPNM_X6OmQ@mail.gmail.com>

yep, look at all that Mild steel baffling that came out.  whether it is the
welds or the perforated baffles, anything that has been metalworked or
welded will corrode first/fast whether the car is driven or not.

On Thu, Jun 16, 2022 at 9:23 AM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> Here is what happens to a mild steel resonator after a few years of
> sitting with water inside or hot/cold pipe driving conditions.  Keep
> spares, or go for stainless, and loose the sound effect. I blame this one
> on covid. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist"
> To: "Jean Caron"
> Cc: "healey Mail List"
> Sent: Thursday June 16 2022 9:10:27AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>
> When you park the car after a long drive, water will collect in a mild
> steel exhaust system and relatively quickly the welds in the internal
> baffles on the silencer will corrode and break away. So whether you drive
> the car or not the silencers corrode internally.  having SS silencers is a
> good idea.  pipes can be mild steel and they will last forever.
>
> On Mon, 13 Jun 2022 at 2:56 PM, Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the
>> need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years
>> anyway.
>>
>> Jean
>>
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>> Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Monday, June 13, 2022 4:50:18 PM
>> *To:* Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
>> *Cc:* healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
>>
>> I make my own front pipes for 100's because the cheapo repos are so
>> terrible.
>> I use mild steel for the pipes, which I actually had mandrel bent in New
>> Zealand because no one in Canada seemed to be able to bend them to the
>> correct radius but, and pretty soon I'll get to the point of this email, I
>> weld the stainless flex to the mild steel with my TIG welder.
>> I use mild steel for the pipes because I have yet to see a front pipe
>> that has rusted through unless the car is driven extensively on salted
>> roads.
>> I'm sure anyone who does TIG welding could do the welding for you in mild
>> steel but if you are prepared to pay handsomely FAB Stainless Welding could
>> do them in stainless 905 669 7400 ask for Frank.
>> BTW the stainless steel flex seems to leak slightly when first installed
>> but that stops after a little use, the gaps probably fill with carbon.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 13, 2022, 3:54 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <
>> s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>>
>> Just thought I?d bring you up to date on my quest for a leak free exhaust.
>> The new downpipes arrive today, and I did a test on them before going to
>> the trouble of putting them on the car.
>> Well?Bell exhaust systems need new welders, because the two pipes both
>> leak at the welds AND through the flex pipe!
>> I?m trying to find someone local to fix them, but most muffler shops say
>> they can't weld stainless.
>> If anyone knows someone in the Toronto area who can do this work, please
>> let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 16 13:14:55 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 12:14:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Stainless exhaust again
In-Reply-To: <507dd4f1-4391-2400-c6bd-a38c852705a9@comcast.net>
References: <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67.ref@rogers.com>
 <EF1AB224-64B2-4002-9922-862B7DDABD67@rogers.com>
 <CAB3i7LLyrtx7naW4o4xnEHp737xw=riOxntG6qWkx+fDxvi91g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078EB72A26E6393781D9DCED1AB9@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTk+arVokfPRfjwqr-_1BXwtzycLquCDrftzb6NLRN-b4QQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <507dd4f1-4391-2400-c6bd-a38c852705a9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL0UWoux=mc5Tnx7s8+qjA-cT7Zb2obEEA-ptDW3BhfgA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob -

British systems as far as I know didn't use glass, and for the healeys had
straight through silencer with a straight through perforated baffle/pipe in
the silencer.

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Jun 16, 2022 at 9:29 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Side topic: Anyone know, for sure, what type the OEM mufflers were; i.e.
> 'glasspack,' 'turbo' (baffles) or a third type I recall someone explaining
> but I can't recall what they're called?
>
> The OEM mufflers (I think) I've heard had a mild, apologetic sound; i.e.
> 'Sorry, old chap, but I must make some sound to get these obnoxious gases
> out of my system.'
>
>
> On 6/16/2022 9:09 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> When you park the car after a long drive, water will collect in a mild
> steel exhaust system and relatively quickly the welds in the internal
> baffles on the silencer will corrode and break away. So whether you drive
> the car or not the silencers corrode internally.  having SS silencers is a
> good idea.  pipes can be mild steel and they will last forever.
>
> On Mon, 13 Jun 2022 at 2:56 PM, Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> With the few miles we put on our cars each year  I simply cannot see the
>> need for stainless steel exhaust when a MD steel one will last 20 + years
>> anyway.
>>
>> Jean
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Jun 17 04:29:57 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2022 06:29:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
In-Reply-To: <001301d8818c$229ed9f0$67dc8dd0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <005001d88129$774e6be0$65eb43a0$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAB3i7L+N6SoLpCeMR3_MdiSzP5HpzE3kpNK1vc=Ajo0NOtsmgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001301d8818c$229ed9f0$67dc8dd0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <b694f7d9-2d47-da3f-7c6f-f0f4d4ab2506@earthlink.net>

Mirek,

I don't believe the OD 3/4 gear switch touches brass. I think that it 
presses against a flat on the control lever (1B3706) that the bottom of 
the gear shift lever fits in.

Item 94 on the Moss parts diagram: 
https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/gearbox-driveshaft/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

Or item # 28 / illus # 123 on page F.4 at John New's online parts list: 
https://lbcdigital.com/bmc_publications/akd1151/

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/16/22 10:19 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike,? I might take the switch off the other g?box first and 
> try it.? However, given that the switch has a steel ball on the end 
> which engages onto the brass shift fork, I suspect it is the brass 
> that wears.? So unless the replacement switches are a smidgen longer, 
> I don?t see how that would change things.? Anyhow, I know what the 
> problem is, so when I have it apart I will figure out a solution.
>
> Thanks, Mirek
>
> *From:*Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* June 16, 2022 7:55 AM
> *To:* Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
>
> Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which 
> are used for adjustment.
>
> Most are fitted with 1 washer but occasionally you will find 2.
>
> Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the 
> gearbox which should resolve your issue.
>
> If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement 
> switch. The switches available from the usual suspects seem to be 
> quite reliable.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>     Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is
>     dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the
>     left.? This is without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox
>     switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3^rd and 4^th thus
>     causing the O/D to disengage.? Pushing the lever to the right
>     re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to
>     screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will
>     only go in so far.? I am not sure what part of the shift lever
>     actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it. The workshop
>     manual is not much help in figuring it out.? Is it the switch or
>     is it what ever it bears on when in 3^rd or 4^th ?? ?I have not
>     had the g?box cover off to look at it yet but thought I?d ask the
>     list if anyone had encountered this.
>
>     Thoughts and ideas?
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
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From kentmclean at comcast.net  Fri Jun 17 13:10:08 2022
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2022 15:10:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] All Nighter
Message-ID: <E9ED63E8-4C95-4938-B71E-63C594EC1FC4@comcast.net>

I was getting my motorcycle inspected, sitting in the waiting area, when I spied a familiar shape on the cover of Hagerty Magazine issue #67. Reading the article was a pleasant way to wait.

"Undisturbed for 29 years, this Healey took us on an all-nighter"
https://www.hagerty.com/media/driving/29-years-healey-all-nighter/

Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
'60 Bugeye

From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Jun 17 14:27:26 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2022 20:27:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] All Nighter
In-Reply-To: <E9ED63E8-4C95-4938-B71E-63C594EC1FC4@comcast.net>
References: <E9ED63E8-4C95-4938-B71E-63C594EC1FC4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <846156279.5316969.1655497646291@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes great read. ?Well written. ?The kind of drive we all dream about but life and location don't always allow.On the related article in Hagerty on the Caton sounds like an intriguing car.


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2022 3:10 pm
Subject: [Healeys] All Nighter

I was getting my motorcycle inspected, sitting in the waiting area, when I spied a familiar shape on the cover of Hagerty Magazine issue #67. Reading the article was a pleasant way to wait.

"Undisturbed for 29 years, this Healey took us on an all-nighter"
https://www.hagerty.com/media/driving/29-years-healey-all-nighter/

Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
'60 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Jun 18 04:17:36 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 11:17:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] OD still not working!
Message-ID: <000001d882fc$a2d7c9d0$e8875d70$@alexarevel.plus.com>

This saga started months ago and you may remember the case and the various
suggestions made at the time. I've been away and thus unable to get back to
the problem..

 

The background was that the thing would go into OD but not come out. And,
after many vicissitudes.removing box and OD in order to drive it up north
3(!) times, it is still playing up.

 

I shall try to give all the details and background but that will entail my
being as verbose as usual.

1.	It is in a MKII BT7 centre shift.
2.	It has, yesterday, new 30 wt non-detergent. Plenty of it. Clean.
3.	Its electrics pass muster though I wish I could detect a fault there
so that I could fix it.. If the ignition is on and the engine is off, when I
put the stick in 4th and engage OD I get a nice click and the little lever
moves. When I move the lever across to 1st and 2nd, another click and slight
movement on the little lever. When I leave it in 4th but switch the OD off,
it stays engaged until I depress the accelerator a little and then it drops
out of OD. To my mind at least, this indicates that the electrics are
working. IS THAT PRESUMPTION CORRECT? I tried it with a spare, rebuilt,
relay but no dice.
4.	There is nothing in the little hole and the ball seats nicely. All
new parts in there.
5.	The lever is free to move when the ignition is off ie nothing in
there is slowing the lever's freedom to move as pulled by the solenoid.

 

I have a (new) gauge and it goes up to 500+ psi when in 3rd or 4th and stays
there until I engage the OD. Pressure drops momentarily then returns to
500+. All well and good. But it won't come out..

 

My feeling, going somewhat against received/informed advice, was that
"something was stuck inside and not releasing". This was borne out when,
with the back wheels off the ground, I was trying to find out what was going
wrong..the gauge was in and I was watching it. Into OD...the usual click
plus a different sort of noise/clunk and a distinct jerk. The gauge went off
the scale..needle all the way round and jammed on the reverse side of zero
where it remained; gauge destroyed. The gasket between the
solenoid/operating lever casing and the accumulator area ruptured and oil
started to come out. Fairly briskly. So that was a complete disaster.

 

I rang up ODSpares, for the 400th time, and Dave said that the accumulator -
brand new, fitted by them - must have jammed. He, very reasonably I thought,
said that if I brought the box and OD up again(!), he'd fit on a complete
new unit. So, I did and he did. I imagine that he fitted a casing with all
new bits where needed. He runs them on a rig for 8 hours before letting them
leave the shop..

 

Anyhow, I stuck the box etc back in - I'm getting quite good at that now -
and had high hopes. But, no good. The needle goes up to 500+ and stays there
until I move it in and out of OD by moving the stick left to right with the
ignition on and the engine off.

 

Logically, if logic applies to an OD, one might suppose EITHER that there is
a batch of dud accumulators out there OR that there is some external factor
that I've missed which has been lurking undetected all the while?!? BUT,
that would not have made the accumulator jam??

 

Is it possible that there is something extraneous that could cause the
electrics to play up only when the engine is running?

Or, do ODs need a few miles on them before they start working properly?
Clutching at straws here!!

 

One last thing, Dave agreed that there was still a pressure issue. He
suggested drilling out the little hole in the so-called "valve - operating"
(the rod under the ball bearing). That was to allow the pressure to bleed
off faster. He sent me a new rod in case that didn't work. Which it didn't!
The hole was just a tiny fraction less than 1mm and I drilled it out to
1.5mm. (Apparently, the factory used to drill them out for competition
vehicles.)

 

Anyhow, I'm stuck. As is the OD!. And I've gone completely beyond any
expertise I ever had with these damn devices. I thought I understood the
electrics and I thought I could diagnose most pressure related issues. But
I'm getting nowhere and it's been going on for months and months.....

 

Any ideas would be very welcome. Exceeding welcome.

 

Simon

 

 

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Jun 18 04:50:20 2022
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 06:50:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] All Nighter
In-Reply-To: <846156279.5316969.1655497646291@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <E9ED63E8-4C95-4938-B71E-63C594EC1FC4@comcast.net>
 <846156279.5316969.1655497646291@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1573739552.10792198.1655549420360.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

it wasn't an all nighter, but we got our kicks on a 47 day jaunt across Europe in our BJ8 in 2000--some of which was at night in the Alp foothills.  It was a dream adventure and so happy we had the opportunity to do it.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: kentmclean at comcast.net, healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 17 Jun 2022 16:27:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] All Nighter


Yes great read.  Well written.  The kind of drive we all dream about but life and location don't always allow.
On the related article in Hagerty on the Caton sounds like an intriguing car.


-----Original Message-----

From: Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net>

To: healeys at autox.team.net

Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2022 3:10 pm

Subject: [Healeys] All Nighter

I was getting my motorcycle inspected, sitting in the waiting area, when I spied a familiar shape on the cover of Hagerty Magazine issue #67. Reading the article was a pleasant way to wait.

"Undisturbed for 29 years, this Healey took us on an all-nighter"
https://www.hagerty.com/media/driving/29-years-healey-all-nighter/

Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
'60 Bugeye
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 18 07:32:54 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 06:32:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD still not working!
In-Reply-To: <000001d882fc$a2d7c9d0$e8875d70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d882fc$a2d7c9d0$e8875d70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <5a20dd64-1b92-4eeb-572b-8c0ff9c88523@comcast.net>

Disclaimer: I'm not an O/D expert, having rebuilt exactly one with 
reasonable success, but I can throw guesses around.

I think /something/ with the operating valve and its lifting rod 
(bent?), but there's couple theoretical causes:

- Too much wear on the cone clutch, causing it to stick in the brake 
ring, but the guys at ODSpares would surely have noticed and 
replaced/relined the clutch, no?

- Something wrong with the operating pistons (one or both), not allowing 
them to recede in their bores when pressure is relieved (O-ring or steel 
rings?)

I don't know enough about the intricacies of the internal passageways, 
but I do know the accumulator regulates pressure pretty simply: when the 
spring is compressed far enough a drain hole is uncovered (not unlike 
how engine oil pressure is limited). If that relief hole was somehow 
blocked pressure would increase until something gave (like your gauge).

An owner had a similar problem, reported on another forum. Someone 
suggested the unidirectional clutch getting stuck, but I can't wrap my 
head around that one (I think that would cause issues on overrun, 
possibly damaging the O/D).

So, the unit works fine on the test rig, but locks up first time you 
engage it and stays there? May be a clue in there somewhere but, so far, 
I'm coming up empty.

BTW, did you use the newer accumulator type, with an 0-ring instead of 
steel rings?



On 6/18/2022 3:17 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> This saga started months ago and you may remember the case and the 
> various suggestions made at the time. I?ve been away and thus unable 
> to get back to the problem?.
>
> The background was that the thing would go into OD but not come out. 
> And, after many vicissitudes?removing box and OD in order to drive it 
> up north 3(!) times, it is still playing up.
>
> I shall try to give all the details and background but that will 
> entail my being as verbose as usual.
>
>  1. It is in a MKII BT7 centre shift.
>  2. It has, yesterday, new 30 wt non-detergent. Plenty of it. Clean.
>  3. Its electrics pass muster though I wish I could detect a fault
>     there so that I could fix it?. If the ignition is /on /and the
>     engine is /off/, when I put the stick in 4^th and engage OD I get
>     a nice click and the little lever moves. When I move the lever
>     across to 1^st and 2^nd , another click and slight movement on the
>     little lever. When I leave it in 4^th but switch the OD /off, /it
>     stays engaged until I depress the accelerator a little and then it
>     drops out of OD. To my mind at least, this indicates that the
>     electrics are working. IS THAT PRESUMPTION CORRECT? I tried it
>     with a spare, rebuilt, relay but no dice.
>  4. There is nothing in the little hole and the ball seats nicely. All
>     new parts in there.
>  5. The lever is free to move when the ignition is off ie nothing in
>     there is slowing the lever?s freedom to move as pulled by the
>     solenoid.
>
> I have a (new) gauge and it goes up to 500+ psi when in 3^rd or 4^th 
> and stays there until I engage the OD. Pressure drops momentarily then 
> returns to 500+. All well and good. But it won?t come out?.
>
> My feeling, going somewhat against received/informed advice, was that 
> ?something was stuck inside and not releasing?. This was borne out 
> when, with the back wheels off the ground, I was trying to find out 
> what was going wrong??the gauge was in and I was watching it. Into 
> OD??.the usual click plus a different sort of noise/clunk and a 
> distinct jerk. The gauge went off the scale?.needle all the way round 
> and jammed on the reverse side of zero where it remained; gauge 
> destroyed. The gasket between the solenoid/operating lever casing and 
> the accumulator area ruptured and oil started to come out. Fairly 
> briskly. So that was a complete disaster.
>
> I rang up ODSpares, for the 400^th time, and Dave said that the 
> accumulator ? brand new, fitted by them - must have jammed. He, very 
> reasonably I thought, said that if I brought the box and OD up 
> /again(!)/, he?d fit on a complete new unit. So, I did and he did. I 
> imagine that he fitted a casing with all new bits where needed. He 
> runs them on a rig for 8 hours before letting them leave the shop??
>
> Anyhow, I stuck the box etc back in ? I?m getting quite good at that 
> now ? and had high hopes. But, no good. The needle goes up to 500+ and 
> stays there until I move it in and out of OD by moving the stick left 
> to right with the ignition on and the engine off.
>
> Logically, if logic applies to an OD, one might suppose EITHER that 
> there is a batch of dud accumulators out there OR that there is some 
> external factor that I?ve missed which has been lurking undetected all 
> the while?!? BUT, that would not have made the accumulator jam??
>
> Is it possible that there is something extraneous that could cause the 
> electrics to play up only when the engine is running?
>
> Or, do ODs need a few miles on them before they start working 
> properly? Clutching at straws here!!
>
> One last thing, Dave agreed that there was still a pressure issue. He 
> suggested drilling out the little hole in the so-called ?valve ? 
> operating? (the rod under the ball bearing). That was to allow the 
> pressure to bleed off faster. He sent me a new rod in case that didn?t 
> work. Which it didn?t! The hole was just a tiny fraction less than 1mm 
> and I drilled it out to 1.5mm. (Apparently, the factory used to drill 
> them out for competition vehicles?)
>
> Anyhow, I?m stuck. As is the OD!. And I?ve gone completely beyond any 
> expertise I ever had with these damn devices. I thought I understood 
> the electrics and I thought I could diagnose most pressure related 
> issues. But I?m getting nowhere and it?s been going on for months and 
> months????.
>
> Any ideas would be very welcome. Exceeding welcome.
>
> Simon
>
>
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Jun 18 10:36:43 2022
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 16:36:43 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] The "new" 100-4
Message-ID: <20220618.123643.12594.2@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

Give me the original, but credit for trying! First drive: the new Austin-Healey 100 restomod by Caton - Magneto (magnetomagazine.com)
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Jun 18 11:49:37 2022
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 17:49:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] OD still not working!
Message-ID: <11453a6fc56ab3052105664dd9b9237faf4b8863@webmail>

HI SIMON, HANK HERE, AND THAT'S ANOTHER TALE OF WOE. BOB MAKES SOME
GOOD POINTS AND MENTIONS THE ACCUMULATOR. YOU MENTIONED A "BAD BATCH"
OF ACCUMULATORS. DEFINITELY, IF THE ACCUMULATOR DOES NOT RELEASE IT
WILL CONTINUE TO "PUMP" (HOLD PRESSURE) HYDRAULIC OIL AS THE "PUMP" IS
THE LITTLE WHEEL IN CONTACT WITH THE MAINSHAFT CAM, CONSTANTLY GOING
UP AND DOWN creating pressure. At the engineered max about 400-500PSI
something has to release, or it continues to pump pressure beyond what
is needed to overcome the 8 springs resistance which push the clutch
into direct drive.
I'm a stickler for using original parts, if nothing is wrong with
them. (I'm using the steel piston rings, not O rings) Replacement
items always scare me (are they an exact match?). I think you
experienced that issue when you replaced the transmission clutch
plate.
I do drill out the tiny hole with a 1MM bit to make room for dirt
which could be larger than that tiny hole. It does not hurt the
operation but, yes it can drain a little faster (about 1/2 sec.). If
that whole passage is clean, proper size ball and spring and rod not
bent, it functions as a release valve when lowered (by lever action
from arm).
Then the other drain is as Bob describes, when the accumulator moves
away from the drilling in the bore. This drilling also depends on an
annular groove (passage in the mainshaft-be sure they are clear) to
carry oil. These must also be squeaky clean. That huge spring inside
the accumulator controls the release of massive hydraulic pressure. It
is important to use a test gauge of about 800PSI when testing the
system...just in case you are not releasing pressure.
The "trouble shooting guide" in the workshop manual only addresses
lack of pressure release to dirt, electrics or damaged parts. I'm
afraid its yet another trip back to OD Spares. While its out, look
carefully at the tail of your mainshaft and insure it has clear
passages. A piece of SS wire will check openings. Dirt is the main
culprit in ODs followed by wear, if electrics are ok.

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday June 18 2022 6:33:36AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD still not working!

 Disclaimer: I'm not an O/D expert, having rebuilt exactly one with
reasonable success, but I can throw guesses around.

 I think _something_ with the operating valve and its lifting rod
(bent?), but there's couple theoretical causes:

 - Too much wear on the cone clutch, causing it to stick in the brake
ring, but the guys at ODSpares would surely have noticed and
replaced/relined the clutch, no?

 - Something wrong with the operating pistons (one or both), not
allowing them to recede in their bores when pressure is relieved
(O-ring or steel rings?)

 I don't know enough about the intricacies of the internal
passageways, but I do know the accumulator regulates pressure pretty
simply: when the spring is compressed far enough a drain hole is
uncovered (not unlike how engine oil pressure is limited). If that
relief hole was somehow blocked pressure would increase until
something gave (like your gauge).

 An owner had a similar problem, reported on another forum. Someone
suggested the unidirectional clutch getting stuck, but I can't wrap my
head around that one (I think that would cause issues on overrun,
possibly damaging the O/D).

 So, the unit works fine on the test rig, but locks up first time you
engage it and stays there? May be a clue in there somewhere but, so
far, I'm coming up empty.

 BTW, did you use the newer accumulator type, with an 0-ring instead
of steel rings?

On 6/18/2022 3:17 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:

	This saga started months ago and you may remember the case and the
various suggestions made at the time. I?ve been away and thus unable
to get back to the problem?. 

	The background was that the thing would go into OD but not come out.
And, after many vicissitudes?removing box and OD in order to drive
it up north 3(!) times, it is still playing up. 

	I shall try to give all the details and background but that will
entail my being as verbose as usual. 

	* It is in a MKII BT7 centre shift.
 	* It has, yesterday, new 30 wt non-detergent. Plenty of it. Clean.
 	* Its electrics pass muster though I wish I could detect a fault
there so that I could fix it?. If the ignition is _on_ and the
engine is _off_, when I put the stick in 4th and engage OD I get a
nice click and the little lever moves. When I move the lever across to
1st and 2nd, another click and slight movement on the little lever.
When I leave it in 4th but switch the OD _off,_ it stays engaged until
I depress the accelerator a little and then it drops out of OD. To my
mind at least, this indicates that the electrics are working. IS THAT
PRESUMPTION CORRECT? I tried it with a spare, rebuilt, relay but no
dice.
 	* There is nothing in the little hole and the ball seats nicely. All
new parts in there.
 	* The lever is free to move when the ignition is off ie nothing in
there is slowing the lever?s freedom to move as pulled by the
solenoid.

	I have a (new) gauge and it goes up to 500+ psi when in 3rd or 4th
and stays there until I engage the OD. Pressure drops momentarily then
returns to 500+. All well and good. But it won?t come out?. 

	My feeling, going somewhat against received/informed advice, was that
?something was stuck inside and not releasing?. This was borne out
when, with the back wheels off the ground, I was trying to find out
what was going wrong??the gauge was in and I was watching it. Into
OD??.the usual click plus a different sort of noise/clunk and a
distinct jerk. The gauge went off the scale?.needle all the way
round and jammed on the reverse side of zero where it remained; gauge
destroyed. The gasket between the solenoid/operating lever casing and
the accumulator area ruptured and oil started to come out. Fairly
briskly. So that was a complete disaster. 

	I rang up ODSpares, for the 400th time, and Dave said that the
accumulator ? brand new, fitted by them - must have jammed. He, very
reasonably I thought, said that if I brought the box and OD up
_again(!)_, he?d fit on a complete new unit. So, I did and he did. I
imagine that he fitted a casing with all new bits where needed. He
runs them on a rig for 8 hours before letting them leave the
shop?? 

	Anyhow, I stuck the box etc back in ? I?m getting quite good at
that now ? and had high hopes. But, no good. The needle goes up to
500+ and stays there until I move it in and out of OD by moving the
stick left to right with the ignition on and the engine off. 

	Logically, if logic applies to an OD, one might suppose EITHER that
there is a batch of dud accumulators out there OR that there is some
external factor that I?ve missed which has been lurking undetected
all the while?!? BUT, that would not have made the accumulator jam?? 

	Is it possible that there is something extraneous that could cause
the electrics to play up only when the engine is running? 

	Or, do ODs need a few miles on them before they start working
properly? Clutching at straws here!! 

	One last thing, Dave agreed that there was still a pressure issue. He
suggested drilling out the little hole in the so-called ?valve ?
operating? (the rod under the ball bearing). That was to allow the
pressure to bleed off faster. He sent me a new rod in case that
didn?t work. Which it didn?t! The hole was just a tiny fraction
less than 1mm and I drilled it out to 1.5mm. (Apparently, the factory
used to drill them out for competition vehicles?) 

	Anyhow, I?m stuck. As is the OD!. And I?ve gone completely beyond
any expertise I ever had with these damn devices. I thought I
understood the electrics and I thought I could diagnose most pressure
related issues. But I?m getting nowhere and it?s been going on for
months and months????. 

	Any ideas would be very welcome. Exceeding welcome. 

	Simon 


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 18 20:31:38 2022
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2022 19:31:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey on Jeopardy
Message-ID: <48f265a1-b74e-a9bd-93ca-af56a3614b7d@comcast.net>

I don't recall if this has been posted already; if so, apologies. The 
Healey makes its appearance around 16:05:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAznHnewziE&t=1008s

From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jun 19 02:54:13 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 09:54:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] your OD headaches
In-Reply-To: <al8tahp7ea0uhnjvf5nl8ppb7ljsh2u1e3@4ax.com>
References: <al8tahp7ea0uhnjvf5nl8ppb7ljsh2u1e3.ref@4ax.com>
 <al8tahp7ea0uhnjvf5nl8ppb7ljsh2u1e3@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <000001d883ba$28261610$78724230$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Roland,
Thanks for this. I shall try to clarify.


-----Original Message-----
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net <> 
Sent: 19 June 2022 05:17
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Subject: your OD headaches

Hello Simon,

Something about what you do to release the OD is crucial and the rest is
extraneous.  So, please forgive my dumb questions.  If you move it in and
out of OD by moving the stick left to right and Engine On, it doesn't
release? .
> No, it doesn't
 If you just turn off the engine and ignition, then what?
> Gauge stays at 500+psi
  Does it release then?
> No and the gauge stays still at 500+ when one might expect it to drop,
even if drop very slowly.
 Or only when you move the stick?
>The gauge drops in increments every time one moves the stick left to right.
  Or what?
>My impression, per my original email, is that the electrics work fine
because it passes all the tests that I mentioned. Furthermore, one gets the
impression that something internal is preventing the OD's >release. ie that
the electrics perform properly but they cannot force the OD to release.
That, as I see it, is the opposite of usual ie one often finds that an OD's
mechanics are fully functional but it won't work >because of an electrical
issue such as the points being stuck inside the relay.
The answers to questions like these ought to distinguish electrical from
mechanical sources for the problem.
>I'm not 100% sure, of course, but I really feel that the problem is
internal to the OD itself. As I said previously, if it was electrical I
could probably fix it. This pressure business, this stuck OD, this virtual
explosion is all something new to me. And, I suspect, the blown gauge,
ruptured gasket and consequent leak are new to nearly all of us. I've never
heard of the like, for sure.

Wishing you the best possible luck.
>Thanks. I'm going to need it. I hate the thought of pulling the box out
again, lugging it up north again, putting it back in and have the cycle
start again. A Toyota 5 speed beckons.

-Roland
struggling with gmail problems
On Sat, 18 Jun 2022 11:17:36 +0100, you wrote:

> The needle goes up to 500+ and stays there until I move it in and out of
OD by moving the stick left to right with the ignition on and the engine
off.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jun 19 10:01:14 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 17:01:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Pictures
Message-ID: <000001d883f5$ce5c95f0$6b15c1d0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

>From the Daily Telegraph (Torygraph to the lefties!):-

 <https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-61802116> Your pictures on the
theme of 'great drives' - BBC News

May amuse..assuming your system permits its viewing.

Simon

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jun 19 11:02:27 2022
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 18:02:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] OD
Message-ID: <000f01d883fe$5becd850$13c688f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hold your breathe. I theeenk I've fixed it. More by luck than judgement.
Worked up on the stand and on a brief road trip.

More later if anyone's curious...

Cross your fingers!

Many thanks for all the replies.

Simon

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Jun 19 12:59:32 2022
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 11:59:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD
In-Reply-To: <000f01d883fe$5becd850$13c688f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000f01d883fe$5becd850$13c688f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Y5FB7T47yE17x4QOm_gTcyP0Gtnx8ZQkk66zfyvXGA4Q@mail.gmail.com>

Of course we're curious. And hopeful.
-Roland


On Sun, Jun 19, 2022, 10:02 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> Hold your breathe. I theeenk I?ve fixed it. More by luck than judgement.
> Worked up on the stand and on a brief road trip.
>
> More later if anyone?s curious?..
>
> Cross your fingers!
>
> Many thanks for all the replies.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jun 21 15:09:54 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2022 17:09:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb balance tube hoses
Message-ID: <ac80e30c-e5b4-0769-c4ee-092f79f4ff2e@earthlink.net>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jun 22 08:21:07 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2022 07:21:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pel de Haas - contact?
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJCHOSeTS=j_vsfftPvOAjWjJeAwZm8FJ+T6qSUp=Sj=A@mail.gmail.com>

Is he still active rebuilding SU pumps?  I seem to have misplaced his
contact details, would anyone have them?

Thanks,

Alan
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jun 22 14:03:29 2022
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2022 16:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>

Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I  try to restart it
after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs
badly for the first mile or so.
This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by
fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types
of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue
which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.
I'm contemplating a different approach.
I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering
installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area
of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few
seconds before a hot start.
The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel
boiling there.
Before I  try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what
were the results.

M
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Wed Jun 22 16:26:34 2022
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2022 22:26:34 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bf9bf9a2-9507-4501-90df-1ee6a337d702@me.com>

Michael,I never tried the "mist" solution, but along with George McHarris from the soCal AH Club, we came up with a way to pretty much do away with the problem all together.We installed a marine bilge fan that blew cool air directly onto the front float bowl. When caught in traffic and with the temps rising, turn on the fan and the car ran smooth. Before starting the car, turn the fan on, let it run for a few minutes and the cart started and ran smooth.The best thing I ever did with my BN1 and was really simple. And best of all, I installed mine so that it could be removed easily and no holes were ever drilled.Some where I have photos of my installation, but basically the fan was mounted next to and a little above the radiator on the driver's side of the car. A three inch hose drew air from right behind the grille, ahead of the heat in the engine compartment. The air then would be sent through another flexible "hose" and delivered directly to the front float bowl. I sat in traffic with the temperature getting close to the 200 degree range and never had a problem with vapor lock.Worked great. And like I said above, it was a really simple installation with nothing permanent.?Steven KingsburyBN1On Jun 22, 2022, at 1:04 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I? try to restart it after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs badly for the first mile or so.This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.I'm contemplating a different approach.I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few seconds before a hot start.The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel boiling there.Before I? try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what were the results.M_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jun 22 20:14:51 2022
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 02:14:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.
In-Reply-To: <bf9bf9a2-9507-4501-90df-1ee6a337d702@me.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>
 <bf9bf9a2-9507-4501-90df-1ee6a337d702@me.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB4445E817413FF8DF9B8BF302A5B59@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

I?ve done this just using a spray bottle of water. Seems to help. I?m using a DW heat shield and the problem isn?t quite as much of an issue. Now I occasionally have to wait a few seconds for it to clear, but only in the heat.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2022 10:26 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.

Michael,
I never tried the "mist" solution, but along with George McHarris from the soCal AH Club, we came up with a way to pretty much do away with the problem all together.
We installed a marine bilge fan that blew cool air directly onto the front float bowl. When caught in traffic and with the temps rising, turn on the fan and the car ran smooth. Before starting the car, turn the fan on, let it run for a few minutes and the cart started and ran smooth.
The best thing I ever did with my BN1 and was really simple. And best of all, I installed mine so that it could be removed easily and no holes were ever drilled.
Some where I have photos of my installation, but basically the fan was mounted next to and a little above the radiator on the driver's side of the car. A three inch hose drew air from right behind the grille, ahead of the heat in the engine compartment. The air then would be sent through another flexible "hose" and delivered directly to the front float bowl. I sat in traffic with the temperature getting close to the 200 degree range and never had a problem with vapor lock.
Worked great. And like I said above, it was a really simple installation with nothing permanent.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On Jun 22, 2022, at 1:04 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I  try to restart it after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs badly for the first mile or so.
This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.
I'm contemplating a different approach.
I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few seconds before a hot start.
The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel boiling there.
Before I  try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what were the results.

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 23 09:20:32 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 08:20:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Building in Bill Piggott photo
Message-ID: <CACPMnYqJgOCz-a34_LXPUVsj+AHfVwgUzgM4b99m_+SxbqQCMA@mail.gmail.com>

http://images.google.com/hosted/life/d11f98d35a9ccf8f.html building in
background of Bill Piggott photo in current issue of Healey Marque magazine
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From wdavid890dd at aol.com  Thu Jun 23 12:25:03 2022
From: wdavid890dd at aol.com (wdavid890dd at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 18:25:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 199
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1656007201.26511.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1656007201.26511.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1306021759.7983526.1656008703760@mail.yahoo.com>

Hot engine start.?
Mike,? ? ? ? ?I had a similar problem with my BJ7. The coolant temp. would?rise up over 212 f after shutting off the engine?and would not start until it cooled down.?I installed an?electric fan and?set at about 170 f and leave the ignition key on after stopping the car. The engine stays cool and I?no longer have the issue.?Hope this helps.?Dave Walsh


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, June 23, 2022, 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

? 1. BN1/2 Hard hot start. (Michael Salter)
? 2. Re: BN1/2 Hard hot start. (Steven Kingsbury)
? 3. Re: BN1/2 Hard hot start. (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
? 4. Building in Bill Piggott photo (I Erbs)
Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I? try to restart it after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs badly for the first mile or so.This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.I'm contemplating a different approach.I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few seconds before a hot start.The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel boiling there.Before I? try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what were the results.
M
Michael,
I never tried the "mist" solution, but along with George McHarris from the soCal AH Club, we came up with a way to pretty much do away with the problem all together.
We installed a marine bilge fan that blew cool air directly onto the front float bowl. When caught in traffic and with the temps rising, turn on the fan and the car ran smooth. Before starting the car, turn the fan on, let it run for a few minutes and the cart started and ran smooth.
The best thing I ever did with my BN1 and was really simple. And best of all, I installed mine so that it could be removed easily and no holes were ever drilled.
Some where I have photos of my installation, but basically the fan was mounted next to and a little above the radiator on the driver's side of the car. A three inch hose drew air from right behind the grille, ahead of the heat in the engine compartment. The air then would be sent through another flexible "hose" and delivered directly to the front float bowl. I sat in traffic with the temperature getting close to the 200 degree range and never had a problem with vapor lock.
Worked great. And like I said above, it was a really simple installation with nothing permanent.?
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On Jun 22, 2022, at 1:04 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I? try to restart it after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs badly for the first mile or so.
This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.
I'm contemplating a different approach.
I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few seconds before a hot start.
The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel boiling there.
Before I? try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what were the results.

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com


 I?ve done this just using a spray bottle of water. Seems to help. I?m using a DW heat shield and the problem isn?t quite as much of an issue. Now I occasionally have to wait a few seconds for it to clear, but only in the heat.From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2022 10:26 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.?Michael,
I never tried the "mist" solution, but along with George McHarris from the soCal AH Club, we came up with a way to pretty much do away with the problem all together.
We installed a marine bilge fan that blew cool air directly onto the front float bowl. When caught in traffic and with the temps rising, turn on the fan and the car ran smooth. Before starting the car, turn the fan on, let it run for a few minutes and the cart started and ran smooth.
The best thing I ever did with my BN1 and was really simple. And best of all, I installed mine so that it could be removed easily and no holes were ever drilled.
Some where I have photos of my installation, but basically the fan was mounted next to and a little above the radiator on the driver's side of the car. A three inch hose drew air from right behind the grille, ahead of the heat in the engine compartment. The air then would be sent through another flexible "hose" and delivered directly to the front float bowl. I sat in traffic with the temperature getting close to the 200 degree range and never had a problem with vapor lock.
Worked great. And like I said above, it was a really simple installation with nothing permanent.?
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On Jun 22, 2022, at 1:04 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I? try to restart it after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs badly for the first mile or so.
This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.
I'm contemplating a different approach.
I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few seconds before a hot start.
The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel boiling there.
Before I? try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what were the results.

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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http://images.google.com/hosted/life/d11f98d35a9ccf8f.html building in background of Bill Piggott photo in current issue of Healey Marque magazine_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Thu Jun 23 14:24:14 2022
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 20:24:14 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  BN1/2 Hard hot start.
Message-ID: <912a3aa2-3122-4e75-9114-aedc4f41f49c@me.com>

For those interested in seeing my first installation of the bilge fan. I sent these photos to Michael Salter.Begin forwarded message:From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at me.com>Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.Date: Jun 23, 2022 at 1:19 PMTo: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>Michael,Took a while, but found some. These are from my first installation of the fan. As you will see, I just used baleing wire to hold the fan in place. The fan was a marine bilge fan I got off ebay and it was white, so I painted it flat black to match my engine bay. If I remember correctly, the air duct I got was three inch and hooked up to either end of the fan. One end went to right behind the grill, the other directly onto the front float bowl. I built a switch box and put it on the parcel shelf in the car and as soon as the temp started to rise, I'd just flip the switch and no vapor lock! Worked like a charm.I did clean up the installation and did it all with black zip ties which looked much better, but still was easy to take in and out if needed.Hope these help.StevenOn Jun 23, 2022, at 5:34 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:If you could send some pics I would appreciate it.??I have ordered a 2" fan and am certain going to give it a try.MOn Thu., Jun. 23, 2022, 1:17 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <airtightproductions at me.com> wrote:
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 23 15:56:04 2022
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 17:56:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  BN1/2 Hard hot start.
In-Reply-To: <912a3aa2-3122-4e75-9114-aedc4f41f49c@me.com>
References: <912a3aa2-3122-4e75-9114-aedc4f41f49c@me.com>
Message-ID: <7E904AA8-53F3-4849-9DF3-FA8A8F820C4B@yahoo.com>

This a picture of mine on my 67 BJ8 . The fan is about the size of a beer can . It?s made by a company for race car drivers helmets.  No more vapor lock . 3? OD 
      Don 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 23, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> For those interested in seeing my first installation of the bilge fan. I sent these photos to Michael Salter.
> 
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>> From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at me.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.
>> Date: Jun 23, 2022 at 1:19 PM
>> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> 
>> 
>> Michael,
>> Took a while, but found some. These are from my first installation of the fan. As you will see, I just used baleing wire to hold the fan in place. The fan was a marine bilge fan I got off ebay and it was white, so I painted it flat black to match my engine bay. If I remember correctly, the air duct I got was three inch and hooked up to either end of the fan. One end went to right behind the grill, the other directly onto the front float bowl. I built a switch box and put it on the parcel shelf in the car and as soon as the temp started to rise, I'd just flip the switch and no vapor lock! Worked like a charm.
>> I did clean up the installation and did it all with black zip ties which looked much better, but still was easy to take in and out if needed.
>> Hope these help.
>> Steven
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 23, 2022, at 5:34 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> If you could send some pics I would appreciate it.  
>>> I have ordered a 2" fan and am certain going to give it a try.
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>> On Thu., Jun. 23, 2022, 1:17 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <airtightproductions at me.com> wrote:
>>>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jun 23 16:57:51 2022
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2022 15:57:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Hard hot start.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLKUKZQPV-rnbNuWOZXPwd28r_7MgjmHGCeoWDtRo1Bmw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLsjFYeNXqmZdYPspzjws9PP-H+ER5eKS-JkneUn=ENdQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael -

Actually, my feeling is the problem is often caused further back with
vaporization occurring around the fuel pump when the car sits and heat from
the exhaust floats up to the pump when the car is still.  Wrapping the
pipes under the fuel pump with some header wrap seems to really help (or
maybe wrapping the fuel pump with header wrap).

Another simple solution revolves around the process of fuel feed around the
carbs - A90 owners always zip tie a long piece of wood along the fuel feed
pipe under the front carb and that seems to eliminate the vaporization
problems.  You may try another piece of wood on the cross feed between the
carbs.  Might be a simple test to check if that works, and if so maybe the
solution is just putting some wood pieces on the outside of the fuel
line(s).

Best Regards,

Alan

On Wed, Jun 22, 2022 at 1:04 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Like most 100's my early BN1 runs very well until I  try to restart it
> after parking for a few minutes after which it is hard to start and runs
> badly for the first mile or so.
> This is of course a well known issue with these cars, which is caused by
> fuel boiling, and many people, including myself, have tried various types
> of heatshields in relatively unsuccessful attempts to eliminate this issue
> which has been exacerbated by the ethanol content of modern fuels.
> I'm contemplating a different approach.
> I have purchased an aftermarket windshield washer kit and I'm considering
> installing it with a button control to spray a mist of water onto the area
> of the main jet and bottom of the float chamber which I will use for a few
> seconds before a hot start.
> The idea is that the water mist will cool the area and prevent the fuel
> boiling there.
> Before I  try it I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so what
> were the results.
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Jun 24 10:36:17 2022
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2022 16:36:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fiberfab Jamaican Body
References: <1359430418.4596305.1656088577903.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1359430418.4596305.1656088577903@mail.yahoo.com>

ListersAnyone interested in building a Jamaican?? I have a line on a body with windshield, back deck glass and doors with regulators and glass.?Had been a drivable car on a early 3000 chassis, but was dismantled to use the chassis on another restoration. Located in Western Pennsylvania.?I have a few photos but did not want to bomb the list with large files.?Perry??
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Jun 24 14:38:16 2022
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2022 16:38:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb balance tube hoses
In-Reply-To: <ac80e30c-e5b4-0769-c4ee-092f79f4ff2e@earthlink.net>
References: <ac80e30c-e5b4-0769-c4ee-092f79f4ff2e@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <bfc3be40-aa15-507b-3c91-fcc116547874@earthlink.net>

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From llennep at verizon.net  Sat Jun 25 16:42:16 2022
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2022 22:42:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Porsche book for sale
References: <1736896129.8811239.1656196936904.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1736896129.8811239.1656196936904@mail.yahoo.com>

Thought I would give you listers first shot at this. ?"Porsche" by Mike McCarthy. ?Copyright 1986. ISBN 0-8317-7088-0. ?192 big pages and with jacket. ?Book is in excellent shape. ?Lots of pictures. ?Selling cause I no longer have interest in Porsche. ?Best offer over $50 plus shipping from 23602
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun Jun 26 11:22:41 2022
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2022 10:22:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?o/d_problem?=
Message-ID: <20220626172241.31634.qmail@server278.com>

now that we are in the triple digits here in vegas i have noticed that my overdrive kicks out when i accelerate and then drops back in when speed is reached.  i assume that the accumulator has worn and is not holding pressure.  anything else i should look at before going the major repair route.

From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun 26 11:52:00 2022
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2022 10:52:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] o/d problem
In-Reply-To: <20220626172241.31634.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20220626172241.31634.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <3687EC3C-791A-4781-A40E-77A9DF9B9675@sbcglobal.net>

The seat on the side of the pump is worn. They wear and the check ball will not seat not allowing the pressure to build up

I  use a special ball reamer to cut new seats in the pump valve and the operating valves

David Nock
BritishCar Specialists



> On Jun 26, 2022, at 10:22 AM, healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> now that we are in the triple digits here in vegas i have noticed that my overdrive kicks out when i accelerate and then drops back in when speed is reached.  i assume that the accumulator has worn and is not holding pressure.  anything else i should look at before going the major repair route.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca   (209) 948-8767
Specializing in parts, repairs and the restorations on all British Cars since 1957

www.britishcarspecialists.com


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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 26 11:57:26 2022
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2022 17:57:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] o/d problem
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB607989A0D411F1C70B124D88E6B69@DS7PR11MB6079.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

My overdrive did the same for a number of years initially when it was hot and later every time I accelerated. I liked the "automatic kick-down" and chose not to repair the overdrive until it became worse.
After a number of years the overdrive began dropping out when I put my turn signals on to pass! Again, a bit annoying but this added to the car's personality.
I chose to replace the firewall mounted relay, since the turn signal drop out eventually became annoying.
A new relay fixed both the acceleration and turn signal drop outs!

Laurie



Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.


-------- Original message --------
From: healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: 2022-06-26 1:23 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] o/d problem

now that we are in the triple digits here in vegas i have noticed that my overdrive kicks out when i accelerate and then drops back in when speed is reached.  i assume that the accumulator has worn and is not holding pressure.  anything else i should look at before going the major repair route.
_______________________________________________
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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Jun 27 20:52:32 2022
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2022 02:52:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Intake air flap.
References: <1102086786.207546.1656384752993.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1102086786.207546.1656384752993@mail.yahoo.com>

Greetings all,
I wonder if you can help?? There are two microscopic screws (and washers) holding? the intake air flap onto the pivot shaft in the 
air intake flanged tube.? I suppose that it's too much to ask that anyone sells them, but does anybody know what size they 
happen to be?? They aren't listed separately in the official parts list, but they screw into 27H-1176 (Arm and spindle).? 10 BA or 
somesuch would be my guess!
I just know that I'm going to have to grind the heads off and back them out, as they've been soaking in penetrating oil for months to no avail.
Thanks
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From goldengt at cal.net  Tue Jun 28 09:18:09 2022
From: goldengt at cal.net (Ken)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2022 08:18:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Building in Bill Piggott photo
In-Reply-To: <CACPMnYqJgOCz-a34_LXPUVsj+AHfVwgUzgM4b99m_+SxbqQCMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4LXSsK1tkgzSyRdf@allmail.cal.net>

Maybe DMH was investigating Paxton superchargers for Healey applications.Ken Freese?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> Date: 6/23/22  8:20 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Building in Bill Piggott photo http://images.google.com/hosted/life/d11f98d35a9ccf8f.html building in background of Bill Piggott photo in current issue of Healey Marque magazine
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 28 12:10:18 2022
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2022 14:10:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Intake air flap.
In-Reply-To: <1102086786.207546.1656384752993@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1102086786.207546.1656384752993.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1102086786.207546.1656384752993@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00c101d88b1a$53b793a0$fb26bae0$@gmail.com>

David ? are you referencing the air flap on the heater assembly? The outside air flap at the front under bonnet?

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Lodge via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2022 10:53 PM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>; A. H. List <austinhealeyslist at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Intake air flap.

 

Greetings all,

 

I wonder if you can help?  There are two microscopic screws (and washers) holding  the intake air flap onto the pivot shaft in the 

air intake flanged tube.  I suppose that it's too much to ask that anyone sells them, but does anybody know what size they 

happen to be?  They aren't listed separately in the official parts list, but they screw into 27H-1176 (Arm and spindle).  10 BA or 

somesuch would be my guess!

I just know that I'm going to have to grind the heads off and back them out, as they've been soaking in penetrating oil for months to no avail.

 

Thanks

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 28 15:09:25 2022
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2022 14:09:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] cool hybrid prototype.No Healey content
Message-ID: <CABXhz88r=D9U3GBO4SiLEtgNcE=NpSgD7wKvK7L=O+vx+3V2Qg@mail.gmail.com>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftMxCehD08U
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From wdavid890dd at aol.com  Wed Jun 29 14:21:33 2022
From: wdavid890dd at aol.com (wdavid890dd at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2022 20:21:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 205
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1656525602.6830.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1656525602.6830.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <671740434.62307.1656534093274@mail.yahoo.com>

Al,? ? ?I?m not involved with this question. Wrong e mail perhaps, good luck.?
Dave Walsh


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Wednesday, June 29, 2022, 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Intake air flap. (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
? 2. cool hybrid prototype.No Healey content (i erbs)
<!--#yiv3124735383 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3124735383 #yiv3124735383 p.yiv3124735383MsoNormal, #yiv3124735383 li.yiv3124735383MsoNormal, #yiv3124735383 div.yiv3124735383MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3124735383 span.yiv3124735383EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3124735383 .yiv3124735383MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3124735383 div.yiv3124735383WordSection1 {}-->
David ? are you referencing the air flap on the heater assembly? The outside air flap at the front under bonnet?

 ?

----------------

All the best,

 ?

Al Fuller

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Lodge via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2022 10:53 PM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>; A. H. List <austinhealeyslist at gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Intake air flap.

 ?

Greetings all,

 ?

I wonder if you can help?? There are two microscopic screws (and washers) holding? the intake air flap onto the pivot shaft in the 

air intake flanged tube.? I suppose that it's too much to ask that anyone sells them, but does anybody know what size they 

happen to be?? They aren't listed separately in the official parts list, but they screw into 27H-1176 (Arm and spindle).? 10 BA or 

somesuch would be my guess!

I just know that I'm going to have to grind the heads off and back them out, as they've been soaking in penetrating oil for months to no avail.

 ?

Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftMxCehD08U
Ira ErbsMilwaukie,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes

1967 MGB ?
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

archives:? http://autox.team.net/archive




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