[Healeys] BN1 brake bleed

gradea1 at charter.net gradea1 at charter.net
Wed Aug 31 12:01:06 MDT 2022


Agree with all suggestions. Sucking is better than pumping, as the
pump method moves such a small quantity of fluid throughout the
system. Yes, the early bleeders used a check ball seal and are proper
providing you use the early rounded bleeder screw. If you use the
later screw, it is pointed, but the cylinder body many not mate well
with it. Use all original parts to insure good results. The new check
ball comes in the rebuild kit.
My thought on the 2x4 bleed method is that having the system under
pressure overnight, the air bubble that is causing the soft pedal is
eventually expelled thru the reservoir tank vent hole. That is the
only real "opening" in the system, but a natural escape route. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist" 
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Wednesday August 31 2022 4:43:43AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brake system

 Actually - part of the problem is the BN1 and some BN2 bleeder valves
originally had a separate ball inside the slave’s bleeder which the
little ball sealed the system. Over the years i’m sure that ball has
been lost and maybe you think the bleed screw is sealing the slave
when it really isn’t until it’s fully cinched. That also can
contribute to the inability to get a firm pedal.  
 Cheers, 
 Alan 
 On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 at 4:16 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys  wrote:

	Yes, for sure, an Eezibleeder helps. Keep the air pressure down,
maybe a bit less than suggested in the destructions. 

	Otherwise, see this, below, from one of my manuals. (Curiously, not
in all of them). 

	 ““If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for
a considerable time, it is possible that air is being drawn in past
the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at
the end of each downward stroke* of the pedal and allow the pedal to
return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally
during the last pedal application.” 

	 *ie to prevent air being drawn in during the upward passage of the
pedal. (SDL 14/08/2019)” 

	 I suppose that, the brakes being old, the threads get worn and let
air back in as the pedal goes back up. So, I tighten the bleeder as
the fluid is still coming out, ie before the downward stroke is
finished. Slows the process up somewhat and tries the patience of ones
wifely assistant. 

	 Good luck anyhow. 

	 Simon 

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF David Leong via Healeys
SENT: 31 August 2022 06:19
TO: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brake system   

	 Use a power pressure bleeder (I have a Motive Bleeder) and tap on
the slaves to loosen any air bubbles. Make sure there are no high
spots where air can get trapped and not be purged out of the bleeder
screw 

	_ DAVE_  

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF warthodson--- via Healeys
SENT: Tuesday, August 30, 2022 5:27 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: [Healeys] BN1 brake system   

	We have been trying for several months to bleed the brakes on RHD
BN1, to no avail. The car has been professionally restored & appears
to be in excellent condition. Today, we tried again to bleed the
system following the shop manual. I.E. backing off the adjusters on
the front & back & bleeding & then readjusting the brakes. The results
were the same. There seems to be an excessively large amount of pedal
travel before the brakes are engaged & when engaged they feel
"spongy". We have access to 2 other 100's for reference. Any help
would be greatly appreciated. Also, we are not clear on the adjustment
of the free play of the master cylinder.   

	Gary Hodson       _______________________________________________
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