[Healeys] 100 Engine Gearbox Removal

[Roland Wilhelmy]

You can also raise the car a few inches. I removed and reinstalled #724's
engine and tranny that way by myself. The car was raised to let the cherry
picker legs get under the car and also so I could crawl under to fit the
motor mount screws. Fitting those screws was the hardest part of installing
the engine/tranny combo. Getting the pieces to line up.
-Roland

On Mon, Aug 1, 2022, 12:27 PM john harper via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> HEALEY GUY
>
> I believe that if you look at the detail of removing or replacing the
> engine with a gearbox still attached at a large angle you will find that
> you have to have a below-ground clearance at the tail. This is likely to be
> pit!
>
> For what it is worth I leave the gearbox off until the engine is on its
> front mounts. Lifting the BN1 gearbox with a heavy rope around one's neck
> is not very difficult so long as the clutch plate is in line, using an
> alignment tool. It is best with the gear lever removed because the
> gearbox has to be rotated as it is lined up to get the top under the
> bottom of the firewall. It is also best to have the box in top gear as it
> might be necessary to rotate the first motion shaft from the prop shaft
> flange so that the splines line up with the clutch plate splines. You might
> find that this will allow the gearbox to fit the first time but if not it
> may help to have three long threaded rods pulling the gearbox to the engine
> plate so that there is a constant gap which allows a direct aligned entry.
>
> Regards
>
> On Mon, 1 Aug 2022 at 19:17, healeyguy--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> After the discussion regarding removal of six cylinder engine and gearbox
>> last week.
>> From the 100 Service manual . Even less room maneuver things.
>> P
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Fig 20
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
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