[Healeys] New Clutch query
gradea1 at charter.net
gradea1 at charter.net
Mon Sep 27 10:31:39 MDT 2021
I don't like the different look, and Simon's measurements, of the
clutch disc. First I would take the spare old input shaft-if the same
as the one in the trans, and stick it in the pilot bushing and clutch
plate. If it fits, its correct bush and core. Then I would load up the
gearbox shaft with the clutch disc and position the cover to approx.
installed location to see if there is any interference with the
casing. If it looks clear, mount the disc and cover on the flywheel
and hand tighten the bolts, stick in the shaft or plastic guide and as
Richard indicated, work the unit carefully. concentrically. to insure
it is centered. Tighten bolts to spec, LIGHTLY grease the spline and
nose of input, put box in 4th, position and jiggle the output to
"feel" it fit the spline of the clutch disc, before pushing it home
and button it up. Hank
-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell"
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc:
Sent: Monday September 27 2021 8:26:59AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Clutch query
Since we're grasping at input shafts, er, straws ... Did you lube the
splines with anything? I know it's a slight risk given grease could be
slung onto the disk or cover plate--although engine oil will likely
end up in the vicinity sooner or later--I've always done it with no
issues (if anybody cares, my favorite product for things like this is
Redline's wheel bearing grease).
I'm probably wrong, but I don't think 'centering' is the issue, as I
think Simon was probably pretty careful about it, and I've never heard
of anybody having trouble with a centering tool or input shaft.
On 9/27/2021 8:02 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
I agree with Richard – I go through the same “micro” centering
process.
FROM: richard mayor
SENT: September 26, 2021 12:39 PM
TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
CC: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; Healeys
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] New Clutch query
One suggestion: When you use the centering tool (plastic or
otherwise), tilt the tool all the way up then all the way down, then
do the same from side to side, then split the difference with the tool
in place when you tighten the pressure plate bolts. I personally go
through this routine at least 2 or 3 times to make sure I am as close
to the center position as possible.
One question: Why do you think the metal input shaft is harder to use
than the plastic tool? The input shaft is much longer than the plastic
tool and you can get a better feel for finding the center position
when moving it through its range of motion as you align the disc.
On Sun, Sep 26, 2021 at 7:42 AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
To revert to the problem I’ve being having with my gearbox not
wanting to reinstall to my new clutch……
Bleeding it made no difference.. It was a forlorn hope as I was sure
I’d not lost any fluid but miracles are always welcome.
The gearbox is on the workshop floor as is the new clutch.
Before removing the new clutch I played around with the AH Spares
plastic alignment tool and my spare shaft. Both went in without any
trouble but I suppose they would have anyhow unless they’d been
miles out?? The new clutch slides onto the shaft in the gearbox just
as it should.
See attached file……Seems to me that the old clutch was in pretty
good shape and, with benefit of 20/20 hindsight, one might have left
well alone! It’s been in there for 27 years that I know of. There
were/are a few discrepancies between the old and new clutches. See
attached. I don’t think these would matter????
Are there any obvious steps that I might have missed? Obvious, but,
seemingly, not to me!
I haven’t taken out the flywheel. Didn’t see why? It’s in;
it’s straight/vertical and works.
People state a preference for alignment with a spare shaft rather
than the black plastic tool. I can see that the metal shaft might be
somewhat more precise, but harder to use surely?
I’m reluctant to reinstall and just repeat the whole sorry
process….
Any suggestion?
Thanks,
Simon
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