From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  1 07:39:20 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 13:39:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881DCAD273CCF41BD62F0D9D4AA9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DCAD273CCF41BD62F0D9D4AA9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking this question of the group.  I did learn that not all doors have the vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom of the door to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point for the upper panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later in the run as a needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure someone on here knows when and why. I did find some pictures showing the vinyl glued over that brace and it is visible through the vinyl covering.

As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it creating a 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It just didn't seem correct to me, but after viewing numerous completed cars,  it doesn't look bad.

I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all wrapped up in making it as factory correct as possible.


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

________________________________
From: S and T Miller
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: 100 door vinyl original glue technique

How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl material to the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a brace running up the middle that will show through, and also there would be a 90 degree ledge where it meets the horizontal wood middle support (below the upper vinyl covered panel). I'm fairly certain there was no backing material on this piece of vinyl from the factory.  My thought is to glue to the metal brace and glue a distance away to create a nice transition. And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support which would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the inner door.

I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the issues,  but am interested in how it was done originally.  I don't recall mine having any backing, and my original vinyl is too stiff and pulled away to tell how it was done. Once I flattened out my originals,  they did make fantastic templates to cut the new vinyl from.
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  1 08:09:08 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 14:09:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DCAD273CCF41BD62F0D9D4AA9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507F762C062B3B50D180115D1AB9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Roger Moment also did an article in one of the AHCUSA Magazine about the doors on a 100, I am trying to find when the article was published and the photos for it.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: S and T Miller via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 1, 2021 8:41 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique

I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking this question of the group.  I did learn that not all doors have the vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom of the door to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point for the upper panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later in the run as a needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure someone on here knows when and why. I did find some pictures showing the vinyl glued over that brace and it is visible through the vinyl covering.

As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it creating a 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It just didn't seem correct to me, but after viewing numerous completed cars,  it doesn't look bad.

I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all wrapped up in making it as factory correct as possible.


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."


From: S and T Miller
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: 100 door vinyl original glue technique

How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl material to the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a brace running up the middle that will show through, and also there would be a 90 degree ledge where it meets the horizontal wood middle support (below the upper vinyl covered panel). I'm fairly certain there was no backing material on this piece of vinyl from the factory.  My thought is to glue to the metal brace and glue a distance away to create a nice transition. And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support which would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the inner door.

I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the issues,  but am interested in how it was done originally.  I don't recall mine having any backing, and my original vinyl is too stiff and pulled away to tell how it was done. Once I flattened out my originals,  they did make fantastic templates to cut the new vinyl from.
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct  1 09:18:18 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 08:18:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DCAD273CCF41BD62F0D9D4AA9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <09f9c26c-0dae-0b74-4c16-bb1844959bdc@comcast.net>

Not concours, but when I did my BN2's doors I lined them with a thin 
insulator, basically thin 'bubble wrap' with foil on either side. IIRC, 
I did this because I didn't want just vinyl against metal, but was 
pleasantly surprised when it caused the doors to make a satisfying 
'thunk' on closing; the best-sounding doors I've ever heard (at least on 
a Healey). I tried to make a video with sound, but the recording didn't 
do them justice.


On 10/1/2021 6:39 AM, S and T Miller via Healeys wrote:
> I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking this 
> question of the group.? I did learn that not all doors have the 
> vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom of the door 
> to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point for the upper 
> panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later in the run as a 
> needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure someone on here knows when 
> and why. I did find some pictures showing the vinyl glued over that 
> brace and it is visible through the vinyl covering.
>
> As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it creating a 
> 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It just didn't seem 
> correct to me, but after viewing numerous completed cars,? it doesn't 
> look bad.
>
> I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all wrapped up 
> in making it as factory correct as possible.
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a 
> test drive."
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* S and T Miller
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* 100 door vinyl original glue technique
> How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl material to 
> the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a brace running up 
> the middle that will show through, and also there would be a 90 degree 
> ledge where it meets the horizontal wood middle support (below the 
> upper vinyl covered panel). I'm fairly certain there was no backing 
> material on this piece of vinyl from the factory.? My thought is to 
> glue to the metal brace and glue a distance away to create a nice 
> transition. And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support 
> which would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the 
> inner door.
>
> I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the issues,? but 
> am interested in how it was done originally.? I don't recall mine 
> having any backing, and my original vinyl is too stiff and pulled away 
> to tell how it was done. Once I flattened out my originals,? they did 
> make fantastic templates to cut the new vinyl from.
> TIA, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a 
> test drive."
>

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  1 10:09:34 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 16:09:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507F762C062B3B50D180115D1AB9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DCAD273CCF41BD62F0D9D4AA9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507F762C062B3B50D180115D1AB9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB488108DE142B4442F12D1043D4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

That would be great if you find it.
TY


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 10:09 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique


Roger Moment also did an article in one of the AHCUSA Magazine about the doors on a 100, I am trying to find when the article was published and the photos for it.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: S and T Miller via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 1, 2021 8:41 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 door vinyl original glue technique



I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking this question of the group.  I did learn that not all doors have the vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom of the door to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point for the upper panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later in the run as a needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure someone on here knows when and why. I did find some pictures showing the vinyl glued over that brace and it is visible through the vinyl covering.



As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it creating a 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It just didn't seem correct to me, but after viewing numerous completed cars,  it doesn't look bad.



I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all wrapped up in making it as factory correct as possible.





The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."





From: S and T Miller
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: 100 door vinyl original glue technique



How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl material to the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a brace running up the middle that will show through, and also there would be a 90 degree ledge where it meets the horizontal wood middle support (below the upper vinyl covered panel). I'm fairly certain there was no backing material on this piece of vinyl from the factory.  My thought is to glue to the metal brace and glue a distance away to create a nice transition. And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support which would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the inner door.



I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the issues,  but am interested in how it was done originally.  I don't recall mine having any backing, and my original vinyl is too stiff and pulled away to tell how it was done. Once I flattened out my originals,  they did make fantastic templates to cut the new vinyl from.

TIA, Shawn



The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."


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From 55healey at comcast.net  Fri Oct  1 14:58:05 2021
From: 55healey at comcast.net (Robert Westcott)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 13:58:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Q2QDaEwnGDUxQMcVEWv540byxb0F=bqfYng4R=G6htQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1039558113.718744.1633029027619.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1039558113.718744.1633029027619@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Q2QDaEwnGDUxQMcVEWv540byxb0F=bqfYng4R=G6htQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02E9AF8D-18FF-4C36-9D0C-0943A16DA12F@comcast.net>

Hi Ira and Rich,

I put mine on the passenger side of the rear bulkhead on the 100.  A plastic insulated lighter socket directly wired into the battery right behind it with an inline fuse.  It isn?t too noticeable behind the seat.

Rob


> On Sep 30, 2021, at 6:34 PM, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I sourced a marine grade outlet from a local boat supply store. Made a bracket and velcro to the bottom of My heater box for quick removal. You have a wood dash and console so not sure. I have thought the rear bulhead in front of rear seats and just drill a hole. Put a rubber boot over it to keep it dry
> 
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> 
> On Thu, Sep 30, 2021, 12:11 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Greetings fellow Healeyphiles,
>      I wish to install a 12 volt outlet in my BJ8. Where is the best place to locate it and is any outlet more suitable or more easily installed than others? How is it wired? I assume many of us must have such items installed to power cell phones, Gps, etc. Any advice or pictiures much appreciated. Thank you.
> rich antal
> _

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Oct  1 14:59:55 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 13:59:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet
In-Reply-To: <02E9AF8D-18FF-4C36-9D0C-0943A16DA12F@comcast.net>
References: <1039558113.718744.1633029027619.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1039558113.718744.1633029027619@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Q2QDaEwnGDUxQMcVEWv540byxb0F=bqfYng4R=G6htQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <02E9AF8D-18FF-4C36-9D0C-0943A16DA12F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_0B34Mw8TvLzDXk7KagNvRhu8i8YZHQ_vjSRvwbJjpiA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks  that's what I was thinking

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, Oct 1, 2021, 1:58 PM Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi Ira and Rich,
>
> I put mine on the passenger side of the rear bulkhead on the 100.  A
> plastic insulated lighter socket directly wired into the battery right
> behind it with an inline fuse.  It isn?t too noticeable behind the seat.
>
> Rob
>
>
> > On Sep 30, 2021, at 6:34 PM, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > I sourced a marine grade outlet from a local boat supply store. Made a
> bracket and velcro to the bottom of My heater box for quick removal. You
> have a wood dash and console so not sure. I have thought the rear bulhead
> in front of rear seats and just drill a hole. Put a rubber boot over it to
> keep it dry
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > 1959 AH 100-6
> > 1967 MGB
> > Milwaukie, OR
> >
> > On Thu, Sep 30, 2021, 12:11 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > Greetings fellow Healeyphiles,
> >      I wish to install a 12 volt outlet in my BJ8. Where is the best
> place to locate it and is any outlet more suitable or more easily installed
> than others? How is it wired? I assume many of us must have such items
> installed to power cell phones, Gps, etc. Any advice or pictiures much
> appreciated. Thank you.
> > rich antal
> > _
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Oct  1 16:16:57 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 22:16:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_0B34Mw8TvLzDXk7KagNvRhu8i8YZHQ_vjSRvwbJjpiA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1039558113.718744.1633029027619.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1039558113.718744.1633029027619@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Q2QDaEwnGDUxQMcVEWv540byxb0F=bqfYng4R=G6htQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <02E9AF8D-18FF-4C36-9D0C-0943A16DA12F@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_0B34Mw8TvLzDXk7KagNvRhu8i8YZHQ_vjSRvwbJjpiA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143169836BB2E542579BB7CA5AB9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I?ve been thinking about doing this, but I?d like to find one that will fit inside the ashtray.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 8:59 PM
To: Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net>
Cc: Richard Antal <rantal243 at yahoo.com>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet

Thanks  that's what I was thinking

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, Oct 1, 2021, 1:58 PM Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net<mailto:55healey at comcast.net>> wrote:
Hi Ira and Rich,

I put mine on the passenger side of the rear bulkhead on the 100.  A plastic insulated lighter socket directly wired into the battery right behind it with an inline fuse.  It isn?t too noticeable behind the seat.

Rob


> On Sep 30, 2021, at 6:34 PM, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
> I sourced a marine grade outlet from a local boat supply store. Made a bracket and velcro to the bottom of My heater box for quick removal. You have a wood dash and console so not sure. I have thought the rear bulhead in front of rear seats and just drill a hole. Put a rubber boot over it to keep it dry
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Thu, Sep 30, 2021, 12:11 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> Greetings fellow Healeyphiles,
>      I wish to install a 12 volt outlet in my BJ8. Where is the best place to locate it and is any outlet more suitable or more easily installed than others? How is it wired? I assume many of us must have such items installed to power cell phones, Gps, etc. Any advice or pictiures much appreciated. Thank you.
> rich antal
> _
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From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Fri Oct  1 18:08:26 2021
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 00:08:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB1143169836BB2E542579BB7CA5AB9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1039558113.718744.1633029027619.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1039558113.718744.1633029027619@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Q2QDaEwnGDUxQMcVEWv540byxb0F=bqfYng4R=G6htQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <02E9AF8D-18FF-4C36-9D0C-0943A16DA12F@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_0B34Mw8TvLzDXk7KagNvRhu8i8YZHQ_vjSRvwbJjpiA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB1143169836BB2E542579BB7CA5AB9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1734571665.1191764.1633133306246@mail.yahoo.com>

I make a panel out of L shaped aluminum and mount it to the wiper motor shelf. Out of sight and easy access. It has a cigar lighter, a switch for under dash lights and a switch for fuel pumps.?

Jim WernerLouisville, KY

-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net>; i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: Richard Antal <rantal243 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 1, 2021 6:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet

I?ve been thinking about doing this, but I?d like to find one that will fit inside the ashtray.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 8:59 PM
To: Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net>
Cc: Richard Antal <rantal243 at yahoo.com>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet?Thanks? that's what I was thinking

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
On Fri, Oct 1, 2021, 1:58 PM Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net> wrote:

Hi Ira and Rich,

I put mine on the passenger side of the rear bulkhead on the 100.? A plastic insulated lighter socket directly wired into the battery right behind it with an inline fuse.? It isn?t too noticeable behind the seat.

Rob


> On Sep 30, 2021, at 6:34 PM, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I sourced a marine grade outlet from a local boat supply store. Made a bracket and velcro to the bottom of My heater box for quick removal. You have a wood dash and console so not sure. I have thought the rear bulhead in front of rear seats and just drill a hole. Put a rubber boot over it to keep it dry
> 
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> 
> On Thu, Sep 30, 2021, 12:11 PM Richard Antal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Greetings fellow Healeyphiles,
>? ? ? I wish to install a 12 volt outlet in my BJ8. Where is the best place to locate it and is any outlet more suitable or more easily installed than others? How is it wired? I assume many of us must have such items installed to power cell phones, Gps, etc. Any advice or pictiures much appreciated. Thank you.
> rich antal
> _

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From banjojohn at cox.net  Fri Oct  1 18:27:04 2021
From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn)
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2021 19:27:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet
In-Reply-To: <1039558113.718744.1633029027619@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1633134428.5552.healeys@autox.team.net>

I installed a 12 volt outlet into the side of my glove box.? It has a plastic cap to keep unwanted things from getting into it.? The ?on of this location is that you must have the glove box open when using it, but it is completely invisible 7nless you know where to look.John O'Brien'61 Bugeye (Lucy)'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------From: Richard Antal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Date: 9/30/21  2:12 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] 12 volt outlet Greetings fellow Healeyphiles,???? I wish to install a 12 volt outlet in my BJ8. Where is the best place to locate it and is any outlet more suitable or more easily installed than others? How is it wired? I assume many of us must have such items installed to power cell phones, Gps, etc. Any advice or pictiures much appreciated. Thank you.rich antal
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  1 19:13:00 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2021 21:13:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator
References: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06@yahoo.com>


I?m working on a 65 1/2 BJ8 with a one wire alternator. Which is wired to the starter relay wire terminal, coming from the battery    . Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the hookups to the original regulator on the firewall ? My 67 BJ8 has a alternator installed by me but it has 2 wires coming from it .and I bought the pre wired regulator box that I mounted in place of the original one . This is what I?m looking at . 
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Sent from my iPhone

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Oct  1 21:47:07 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 03:47:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator
In-Reply-To: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06@yahoo.com>
References: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06.ref@yahoo.com>
 <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11434779F601E8A0DA6CB8D3A5AC9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

When the regulator(control box) is used with an alternator it is essentially gutted and turned into a terminal block. Most modern alternators are regulated internally and require none of the functions of a conventional regulator. If your alternator has two wires then one of them is probably used to control the charge warning light.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 2, 2021 1:13 AM
To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator


I?m working on a 65 1/2 BJ8 with a one wire alternator. Which is wired to the starter relay wire terminal, coming from the battery    . Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the hookups to the original regulator on the firewall ? My 67 BJ8 has a alternator installed by me but it has 2 wires coming from it .and I bought the pre wired regulator box that I mounted in place of the original one . This is what I?m looking at .
[cid:ad2d9873-2b35-4b9b-abeb-13b7ee5fafdd at namprd13.prod.outlook.com]


Sent from my iPhone
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Oct  2 13:10:28 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2021 15:10:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator
In-Reply-To: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06@yahoo.com>
References: <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06.ref@yahoo.com>
 <0DEDE7F9-36B1-4C87-9B74-69C9A1B4CC06@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003d01d7b7c1$29c05280$7d40f780$@rr.com>

How 'bout this?

Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 9:13 PM
To: healey list
Subject: [Healeys] Alternator


I?m working on a 65 1/2 BJ8 with a one wire alternator. Which is wired to the starter relay wire terminal, coming from the battery    . Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the hookups to the original regulator on the firewall ? My 67 BJ8 has a alternator installed by me but it has 2 wires coming from it .and I bought the pre wired regulator box that I mounted in place of the original one . This is what I?m looking at . 
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Oct  3 10:18:08 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2021 12:18:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] part needed
Message-ID: <1743717302.310420990.1633277888739.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I need the spring and plunger that goes in the reverse shifter fork on a BJ8 tranny.  anyone have them that you will sell?tom
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  4 16:54:54 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 18:54:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
References: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>

Hi listers
      My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8  
Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ? 
    Thanks Don   67 BJ8 
     More questions will follow ?

Sent from my iPhone

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  4 17:42:05 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 16:42:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
References: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE.ref@yahoo.com>
 <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88Y5ux72kbJaHTqR5M1AhJ__vb20sBLRg_xfF8nod89JQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes,but it's a pain  look into penrite oil or John deer corn oil  much
thicker than gear oil

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021, 4:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi listers
>       My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
> Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I
> assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in
> the car ?
>     Thanks Don   67 BJ8
>      More questions will follow ?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Oct  4 17:56:01 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 19:56:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
References: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE.ref@yahoo.com>
 <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7W=5V7vpgKnevPR96X8dpEeGh7tcjMDc+JZf78B6ucqA@mail.gmail.com>

Don--

Most people don't fix it--they merely use a thicker product.

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 7:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hi listers
>       My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
> Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I
> assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in
> the car ?
>     Thanks Don   67 BJ8
>      More questions will follow ?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Mon Oct  4 18:11:27 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 20:11:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7W=5V7vpgKnevPR96X8dpEeGh7tcjMDc+JZf78B6ucqA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7W=5V7vpgKnevPR96X8dpEeGh7tcjMDc+JZf78B6ucqA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>

Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.

> On Oct 4, 2021, at 20:07, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Don--
> 
> Most people don't fix it--they merely use a thicker product.
> 
>> On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 7:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Hi listers
>>       My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8  
>> Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ? 
>>     Thanks Don   67 BJ8 
>>      More questions will follow ?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> 
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  4 18:39:06 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 20:39:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
References: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8A7561C9-FF8F-4A57-B09C-0E4A32E43D12@yahoo.com>

Thanks All,  I?m thinking of going with a heavier gear oil . I?ll let the next owner decide the way to go with it . 
 What wt oil should I go with . Some thick gear oil I?m thinking . 
       Thanks Don 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2021, at 8:11 PM, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.
> 
>>> On Oct 4, 2021, at 20:07, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> Don--
>> 
>> Most people don't fix it--they merely use a thicker product.
>> 
>>> On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 7:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> Hi listers
>>>       My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8  
>>> Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ? 
>>>     Thanks Don   67 BJ8 
>>>      More questions will follow ?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Best--Michael
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>> 
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  4 18:53:52 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 00:53:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <8A7561C9-FF8F-4A57-B09C-0E4A32E43D12@yahoo.com>
References: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
 <8A7561C9-FF8F-4A57-B09C-0E4A32E43D12@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25073E2A1CBD096EB20E2EECD1AF9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Don,
Does not have to be thick, like Ira suggested, Cornhead Grease from John Deere is good, I have used it for at least 10 years by now without any issues.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Don via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 4, 2021 7:39 PM
To: Team.net<mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
Cc: healey list<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering seal

Thanks All,  I?m thinking of going with a heavier gear oil . I?ll let the next owner decide the way to go with it .
 What wt oil should I go with . Some thick gear oil I?m thinking .
       Thanks Don

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 4, 2021, at 8:11 PM, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:
?
Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.


On Oct 4, 2021, at 20:07, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?
Don--

Most people don't fix it--they merely use a thicker product.

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 7:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Hi listers
      My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ?
    Thanks Don   67 BJ8
     More questions will follow ?

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca744dfcefadb466feb0f08d98798a73a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637689911974573260%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=5ZcO5AJXwErbvmtKA%2BTXb0tq6CFJgxgyNMZTydlTYPQ%3D&reserved=0>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca744dfcefadb466feb0f08d98798a73a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637689911974583253%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=qAIBvk6Jp%2BYCVb0%2FA8OjXomzGl0yF0yowyVUnPZP%2FW8%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca744dfcefadb466feb0f08d98798a73a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637689911974583253%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=75zeRhnCTPZF0YqsNbaUPkP0UVzvBhUh6%2Fu3GfRz7Jc%3D&reserved=0>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca744dfcefadb466feb0f08d98798a73a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637689911974593248%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=0NBkRQAIV0Z5XrNE%2B2rXjCY8eszFASdwnLCCo3%2FZ0gU%3D&reserved=0>

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fmichael.oritt%40gmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca744dfcefadb466feb0f08d98798a73a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637689911974593248%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=4Zd7Q1R%2FAa5QTNMs1m8C4rJ9OTn64lz5e%2FujlW3uIuA%3D&reserved=0>


--
Best--Michael
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Oct  4 19:40:04 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 21:40:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7W=5V7vpgKnevPR96X8dpEeGh7tcjMDc+JZf78B6ucqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005801d7b989$ee0b1200$ca213600$@rr.com>

Or, you can ?buy? one from Autozone, Advance, O?Reilly?s, etc. and return it when you?ve finished with it for a full refund.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Monday, October 4, 2021 8:11 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering seal

 

Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.





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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Oct  4 19:46:29 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 21:46:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <005801d7b989$ee0b1200$ca213600$@rr.com>
References: <005801d7b989$ee0b1200$ca213600$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2B3FD1A0-DE42-447A-B8D5-74AB88F6004B@aol.com>

Use what is recommended. The Penrite steering box lube will help with most leaky boxes. 
P

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2021, at 9:41 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Or, you can ?buy? one from Autozone, Advance, O?Reilly?s, etc. and return it when you?ve finished with it for a full refund.
>  
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Team.net
> Sent: Monday, October 4, 2021 8:11 PM
> To: Michael Oritt
> Cc: healey list
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering seal
>  
> Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From douglas.barker at videotron.ca  Mon Oct  4 18:54:03 2021
From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (douglas.barker at videotron.ca)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 00:54:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <8A7561C9-FF8F-4A57-B09C-0E4A32E43D12@yahoo.com>
References: <C9007DE1-53F5-4964-A1EF-C42E02A6DFCC@gmail.com>
 <8A7561C9-FF8F-4A57-B09C-0E4A32E43D12@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR14MB4139A361D3A6FF18EE5F2D5CF0AF9@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Mic some dark 90 with some grease

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 4, 2021 8:39:06 PM
To: Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
Cc: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering seal

Thanks All,  I?m thinking of going with a heavier gear oil . I?ll let the next owner decide the way to go with it .
 What wt oil should I go with . Some thick gear oil I?m thinking .
       Thanks Don

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2021, at 8:11 PM, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Yes and it is not difficult; just need a good puller for the steering arm.  Get one from Harbor Freight and grind the arms so it fits.

On Oct 4, 2021, at 20:07, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
Don--

Most people don't fix it--they merely use a thicker product.

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 7:05 PM Don via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Hi listers
      My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ?
    Thanks Don   67 BJ8
     More questions will follow ?

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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--
Best--Michael
_______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Oct  4 22:16:56 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2021 21:16:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
References: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE.ref@yahoo.com>
 <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ab8a9574-c8f6-8c93-9c17-23ea065c5bed@comcast.net>

re: "Can this be replaced while in the car ?"

Nope. You can't reach it from any of the seats.






Sorry.

bs

On 10/4/2021 3:54 PM, Don via Healeys wrote:
> Hi listers
>        My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
> Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in the car ?
>      Thanks Don   67 BJ8
>       More questions will follow ?
>
>
>


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Oct  5 03:12:38 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 10:12:38 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
Message-ID: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>

 

 

 

Hi,

I am contemplating replacing the carpet over my Mk II BT7's tunnel cover.
Centre change box. Fibre glass tunnel cover. See attached.

The upholsterer has asked me if my cover is original. Sensible question
since he makes them to order. I've always made the, now seemingly dangerous,
assumption that it was original.

Is there any tried and trusted method of distinguishing the original from
the copies? Or, are the copies sufficiently close to the originals as to
make no difference.

Thanks,

Simon

 

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From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 04:44:16 2021
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (mitchell simmons)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 06:44:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
Message-ID: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>

Hello,

Which mechanical brake light switch works the best?..for 1966 BJ8??
WHERE TO BUY? Install directions

thanks
Mitchell

From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 05:24:58 2021
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 07:24:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
References: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <059D7795-64AC-4552-A452-79760C0FD495@hxcore.ol>

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Oct  5 05:46:08 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 07:46:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
References: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002301d7b9de$96892e90$c39b8bb0$@verizon.net>

I used Watsons Street Works Switch  #L08. Detailed instructions and photos are on my site at Technical Page My Modifications Section.

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of mitchell simmons via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 6:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch

Hello,

Which mechanical brake light switch works the best?..for 1966 BJ8??
WHERE TO BUY? Install directions

thanks
Mitchell
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 06:35:40 2021
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:35:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
References: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8202EA3B-C317-4C79-BE73-48A432935937@gmail.com>

THANKS TO ALL!

Mitchell

> On Oct 5, 2021, at 6:44 AM, mitchell simmons <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Which mechanical brake light switch works the best?..for 1966 BJ8??
> WHERE TO BUY? Install directions
> 
> thanks
> Mitchell


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Oct  5 06:51:57 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 05:51:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
In-Reply-To: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <ccb1baeb-8dc1-fe80-2a7e-42ec16542a2f@comcast.net>

Looks exactly like my BJ8'S cover, EXCEPT ... looks like someone 
installed an extra hole. The hole with the plug/grommet is where my 
speedometer cable transits, dunno what the other one is for (maybe BT's 
are slightly different?).

Bob

On 10/5/2021 2:12 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I am contemplating replacing the carpet over my Mk II BT7?s tunnel 
> cover. Centre change box. Fibre glass tunnel cover. See attached.
>
> The upholsterer has asked me if my cover is original. Sensible 
> question since he makes them to order. I?ve always made the, now 
> seemingly dangerous, assumption that it was original.
>
> Is there any tried and trusted method of distinguishing the original 
> from the copies? Or, are the copies sufficiently close to the 
> originals as to make no difference.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Oct  5 08:32:47 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 10:32:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
References: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <008c01d7b9f5$de4fd960$9aef8c20$@rr.com>

The one I have for my '66 BJ8 is from Watson Street Works 
(https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/the-best-brake-switch

Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 6:44 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch

Hello,

Which mechanical brake light switch works the best?..for 1966 BJ8??
WHERE TO BUY? Install directions

thanks
Mitchell
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Oct  5 09:02:44 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:02:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering seal
In-Reply-To: <ab8a9574-c8f6-8c93-9c17-23ea065c5bed@comcast.net>
References: <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE.ref@yahoo.com>
 <A1E2BC11-AF9C-45F5-AEB5-55FC8DE6BAEE@yahoo.com>
 <ab8a9574-c8f6-8c93-9c17-23ea065c5bed@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiN4xvzM3Qj_efkaw4JiZfqJQDfHqafO9ZR=6KsTsjms2A@mail.gmail.com>

Yes - this was one of my projects for last Winter.. Using the thick NLGI
-00 grease did not solve the leak for me.
It can be done insitu, but not for the faint hearted. As others have also
said, I had to grind the ears of a cheepo pitman puller to make it fit in
the limited space. Mark spline position. The worst part for me was getting
the old seals out without damaging the bore. Very little space between the
bore and the shaft. In the end, think that  I modified a long thin
screwdriver and broke it apart.
Seal is a Timken 340731. Trick is to use 2 when you replace.
Also try to get a tube of the correct diameter for tapping in the new
seals. I conveniently found an alloy bike seat tube fitted perfectly.
rg

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 9:23 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "Can this be replaced while in the car ?"
>
> Nope. You can't reach it from any of the seats.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sorry.
>
> bs
>
> On 10/4/2021 3:54 PM, Don via Healeys wrote:
> > Hi listers
> >        My latest question on my 65 1/2 BJ8
> > Rebuild is . The steering box is leaking all over my garage floor . I
> assume/ hope it?s the steering box oil seal . Can this be replaced while in
> the car ?
> >      Thanks Don   67 BJ8
> >       More questions will follow ?
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Oct  5 09:16:28 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 16:16:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
Message-ID: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

I?ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch
continues to be an issue.

We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn?t budge until we changed engine?s
angle, then it slotted in.

With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope,
determined that the clutch itself can work
..

 

With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch
pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the slave.

I got about ?? to ?? total movement of the slave cylinder?s push rod at
which point ? pedal depressed to the floor ? the clutch was released ie I
could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. ??
depression
..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the last ??.

That?s got to be hydraulics???

I?ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But
I?m not optimistic as I?ve tried bleeding several times. 

My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I?ve owned it. +/- 25
years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good
idea?

Another thing
..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I
always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but
that?s mercifully seldom. 

Any comments
.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 ? travel???

Simon

 

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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Oct  5 09:17:21 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:17:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mech. Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
References: <1070872D-90F4-4184-8237-8CB54B6E552F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiPEVkHGQi3ckKzU8NrNBHW4VhCmb1gYK5+BGvdQ2CpH_w@mail.gmail.com>

I used a Watson Streetworks LO8 switch. Easy to adjust and have had it in
my car for 5 years now with no issues.
I wired it in parallel with the poc hydraulic one. You will have to run a
new wire. Best to install an inline fuse too; also installed a relay to be
absolutely sure it was trouble free forever ! But probably not necessary.
Could take a pix if you are interested.
rg

On Tue, Oct 5, 2021 at 3:45 AM mitchell simmons via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Which mechanical brake light switch works the best?..for 1966 BJ8??
> WHERE TO BUY? Install directions
>
> thanks
> Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Oct  5 09:33:02 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:33:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
In-Reply-To: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <E7D7621F-1B6E-4D63-8438-9F41A003A546@hxcore.ol>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 09:46:07 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 08:46:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
In-Reply-To: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPOdMN==UgEYwkAYcB0e0z0BZg45+TbgW0M2iRNPG788w@mail.gmail.com>

It's original.   The cheap Chinese repops don't look anything like the
original.

On Tue, Oct 5, 2021 at 2:21 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am contemplating replacing the carpet over my Mk II BT7?s tunnel cover.
> Centre change box. Fibre glass tunnel cover. See attached.
>
> The upholsterer has asked me if my cover is original. Sensible question
> since he makes them to order. I?ve always made the, now seemingly
> dangerous, assumption that it was original.
>
> Is there any tried and trusted method of distinguishing the original from
> the copies? Or, are the copies sufficiently close to the originals as to
> make no difference.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 11:34:17 2021
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 13:34:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] reverse lamps
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz883tu0RPCh3tT2xodpiBtnohvH04ebkwcdMG0V_arZWTg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PJ-KJrYjUYLPch1pEsh5P3E7dbgJEwc83sY2xuBcJqJGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-N-jE0Tn+oLsv0vTFbrXLBwfsyXnN16Dox-51OMSz15Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <00a601d7b662$2b580d00$82082700$@gmail.com>
 <CABXhz890DCXE5wQX7LrE2-aQEjn0rpwZoicZ0xhqa-gJ74ozEg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOqP0SKE5trij78LAHL2sL9+6kD+3Fg=pWYJz-Poc2Qn7fGZbw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz89yUHQLREFRVpguTHKt01BwhhF3BELBowYPAghC_NL0Jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOqP0SLjgm0rUeno8ZVBhnEajZh2wrLn5o8pERKXvatyvUR-1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz883tu0RPCh3tT2xodpiBtnohvH04ebkwcdMG0V_arZWTg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJ1ffRJesC2L2ywZOzG4iQXjeQAUsVXSvTU5xO1qVDYVQ@mail.gmail.com>

A big thanks to everyone who responded.   I have a lot of ideas now, from
vintage to modern.   I'm not sure I'll get it done this season before the
snow flies, but I'll be ready this spring.

thanks again,

- Tom
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  5 14:36:47 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 13:36:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>

As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
Mike MacLean
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Oct  5 14:39:39 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 21:39:39 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Clutch
Message-ID: <001501d7ba29$2015bd00$60413700$@alexarevel.plus.com>

 

 

Hi,

I?ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch
continues to be an issue.

We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn?t budge until we changed engine?s
angle, then it slotted in.

With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope,
determined that the clutch itself can work
..

 

With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch
pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the slave.

I got about ?? to ?? total movement of the slave cylinder?s push rod at
which point ? pedal depressed to the floor ? the clutch was released ie I
could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. ??
depression
..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the last ??.

That?s got to be hydraulics???

I?ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But
I?m not optimistic as I?ve tried bleeding several times. 

My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I?ve owned it. +/- 25
years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good
idea?

Another thing
..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I
always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but
that?s mercifully seldom. 

Any comments
.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 ? travel???

Simon

 

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  5 23:51:25 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2021 22:51:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
In-Reply-To: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d7b9c9$26a93f30$73fbbd90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <006001d7ba76$34055170$9c0ff450$@sbcglobal.net>

Looks original to me except for the extra hole.

 

'62 BT7

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 2:13 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet

 

 

 

 

Hi,

I am contemplating replacing the carpet over my Mk II BT7's tunnel cover.
Centre change box. Fibre glass tunnel cover. See attached.

The upholsterer has asked me if my cover is original. Sensible question
since he makes them to order. I've always made the, now seemingly dangerous,
assumption that it was original.

Is there any tried and trusted method of distinguishing the original from
the copies? Or, are the copies sufficiently close to the originals as to
make no difference.

Thanks,

Simon

 

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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Wed Oct  6 01:14:01 2021
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:14:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
Message-ID: <005301d7ba81$bd3b3300$37b19900$@btinternet.com>

When I recently started my engine after a complete rebuild, with both clutch
cylinders rebuilt, the clutch would not fully disengage, so that to move the
car I had to start it in gear.  It seemed that the master cylinder was not
pulling in the required amount of fluid so ran out of travel.  Rebuilding
the master cylinder again fixed the problem.

 

Ian

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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Wed Oct  6 01:16:41 2021
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:16:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Tunnel cover carpet
Message-ID: <006001d7ba82$1c544ac0$54fce040$@btinternet.com>

Simon's gearbox cover looks exactly like mine from a BJ7.  All the same
holes, but mine is plain resin, not painted.  No idea what the other hole is
for.

 

Ian

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Oct  6 06:03:48 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:03:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
In-Reply-To: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <005201d7baaa$38cacb20$aa606160$@sympatico.ca>

Simon,  that does not sound bad to me.  It is hard to actually determine how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the last ? of travel.  If the clutch arm starts to move once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.  I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master cylinder pushrod is in good shape ? these do wear and I have replaced mine several times.  When they are worn you can have a fair bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.  Solution is easy and cheap ? replace the cotter pin.

 

I still have my g?box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.  My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of the pedal and moves a total of 5/8?, which I measured at the centre cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.  I estimated that the clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.  Probably not ? depressed as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.

 

Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the flywheel, or may have ?roughed it up? with some emery to remove any glazing.  Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand.  With a bit of use, after bedding in,  they will disengage a little more readily and you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal.  I imagine this will not be a big difference, but just slight.  This is much the same as drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in.  Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance automatically.  I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it isn?t someone will tell me ?.

 

Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at ? depression of the pedal sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, I?d say you are OK.

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch

 

Hi,

I?ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch continues to be an issue.

We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn?t budge until we changed engine?s angle, then it slotted in.

With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that the clutch itself can work?..

 

With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the slave.

I got about ?? to ?? total movement of the slave cylinder?s push rod at which point ? pedal depressed to the floor ? the clutch was released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. ?? depression?..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the last ??.

That?s got to be hydraulics???

I?ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But I?m not optimistic as I?ve tried bleeding several times. 

My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I?ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good idea?

Another thing?..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but that?s mercifully seldom. 

Any comments?.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 ? travel???

Simon

 

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From douglas.barker at videotron.ca  Wed Oct  6 05:39:05 2021
From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (douglas.barker at videotron.ca)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 11:39:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR14MB41398B0706C811BCC3138EBBF0B09@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Went to Canadian Tire in mtl and bought a small screw jack. Fits under the frame and stores well

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?

As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
Mike MacLean
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Oct  6 06:40:26 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 13:40:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR14MB41398B0706C811BCC3138EBBF0B09@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR14MB41398B0706C811BCC3138EBBF0B09@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000701d7baaf$57a9d4f0$06fd7ed0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

The issue, as I've understood(?) it, is often that one can't get a jack
underneath with a flat tyre and with the car in an unlucky position. Hence,
I gather, some people carry a small scissors to lift the first few inches.

Isn't clearance on a 100 even worse than on a 3000?

I've carried one for ages in my 3000. Never had to use! Saying that is
probably fatal!

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
douglas.barker--- via Healeys
Sent: 06 October 2021 12:39
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>; Ahealey help
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Jack?

 

Went to Canadian Tire in mtl and bought a small screw jack. Fits under the
frame and stores well 

 

Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36> 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Michael MacLean via
Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack? 

 

As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations I
need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit,
to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way, I was
wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good choice.  What
jack do you carry with the car? 

Mike MacLean

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 06:49:28 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:49:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR14MB41398B0706C811BCC3138EBBF0B09@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR14MB41398B0706C811BCC3138EBBF0B09@DM6PR14MB4139.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK42i=QB7_TyVbyHVQD_nHa59P1ByJK6b=wS33Nm56VRA@mail.gmail.com>

I absolutely agree with Douglas  ... exactly what I carry however, I
modified the handle to make it easier to use. I recently had to use it on
the road an it worked very well.

M

On Wed., Oct. 6, 2021, 8:19 a.m. douglas.barker--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Went to Canadian Tire in mtl and bought a small screw jack. Fits under the
> frame and stores well
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] What Jack?
>
> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
> I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
> compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
> For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
> state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
> kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
> I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
> choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Oct  6 06:53:13 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 12:53:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
In-Reply-To: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <1549229390.1475887.1633524793403@mail.yahoo.com>

Simon et alHydraulics in vehicles, especially in the configuration of our Austin Healeys require repair and/or replacement periodically. The aluminum cylinders are compromised by accumulated moisture in the fluid, lack of use, worn rubber bits and a host of other stuff. For the folks who have owned their cars for 50-60 years, how many times have you worked on or had the hydraulics worked on? How many years have your car sat in the garage because the hydraulics are not functioning properly??This is a maintenance issue. Owned the Red Car for nearly 60 years and have resorted to having a rebuilt set of cylinders on the shelf should something not work correctly during an "exercise" run on the old girl. No offense meant ladies.When I commuted daily to school and work or drove across country in the 1960's hydraulics were not a major issue in the reliability category.? Probably a little different today with limited driving ...Perry?

-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 5, 2021 11:16 am
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch

<!--#yiv7351174600 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7351174600 #yiv7351174600 p.yiv7351174600MsoNormal, #yiv7351174600 li.yiv7351174600MsoNormal, #yiv7351174600 div.yiv7351174600MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv7351174600 a:link, #yiv7351174600 span.yiv7351174600MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7351174600 a:visited, #yiv7351174600 span.yiv7351174600MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7351174600 span.yiv7351174600EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7351174600 .yiv7351174600MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7351174600 div.yiv7351174600WordSection1 {}-->Hi,I?ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch continues to be an issue.We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn?t budge until we changed engine?s angle, then it slotted in.With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that the clutch itself can work?.. ?With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the slave.I got about ?? to ?? total movement of the slave cylinder?s push rod at which point ? pedal depressed to the floor ? the clutch was released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. ?? depression?..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the last ??.That?s got to be hydraulics???I?ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But I?m not optimistic as I?ve tried bleeding several times. My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I?ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good idea?Another thing?..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but that?s mercifully seldom. Any comments?.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 ? travel???Simon ?

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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 06:55:36 2021
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 08:55:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BT7 Tunnel Cover Carpet
In-Reply-To: <99dec519-a551-a3d4-b6cc-9c9393a14aff@comcast.net>
References: <99dec519-a551-a3d4-b6cc-9c9393a14aff@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7ef9a595-4e46-4d15-8dfc-f15a4e4706d1@comcast.net>

The cover that Simon showed looks to be an original for a center shift 
BN7/BT7.? I have one that is a turquoise color. You don't say which hole 
is extra.? The smaller round one with a grommet to seal it is for the 
speedo cable, as you say.? The large rectangular grommet is access to 
the dipstick and the large round one at the top of the 'tower' is where 
the shift lever goes through.? And at the rear is the hole that does not 
go all the way through is for the ash tray to nest in.

So it seems that the BJ8 cover must be a variation of the original design.

Charlie

BT7

On 10/5/2021 8:51 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Looks exactly like my BJ8'S cover, EXCEPT ... looks like someone 
> installed an extra hole. The hole with the plug/grommet is where my 
> speedometer cable transits, dunno what the other one is for (maybe 
> BT's are slightly different?).
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/5/2021 2:12 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am contemplating replacing the carpet over my Mk II BT7?s tunnel 
>> cover. Centre change box. Fibre glass tunnel cover. See attached.
>>
>> The upholsterer has asked me if my cover is original. Sensible 
>> question since he makes them to order. I?ve always made the, now 
>> seemingly dangerous, assumption that it was original.
>>
>> Is there any tried and trusted method of distinguishing the original 
>> from the copies? Or, are the copies sufficiently close to the 
>> originals as to make no difference.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 08:08:35 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 10:08:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7xduKg2YEMiFzWAoW=SJOWEED1r4ejd-oxkQB_xqstOQ@mail.gmail.com>

I carry a scissor jack which is stowed in the space formerly occupied by
the left-side 6 volt battery.
I also carry a short piece of 2" x 6" with beveled ends to run up upon and
gain sufficient ground clearance for the jack in case of a flat to one of
the rear tires.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:01 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
> I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
> compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
> For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
> state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
> kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
> I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
> choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 08:21:40 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 07:21:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7xduKg2YEMiFzWAoW=SJOWEED1r4ejd-oxkQB_xqstOQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7xduKg2YEMiFzWAoW=SJOWEED1r4ejd-oxkQB_xqstOQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12ccb240-d782-b430-f8f1-67d775b472eb@comcast.net>

I have an original 'King Dick'--or whatever it's called--jack for my 
BJ8, but I don't carry it because it doesn't have enough platform on 
either end to be even close to 'safe' to use on anything other than a 
flat, hard surface. Sometimes, things can't be fixed under ideal 
conditions (see illustration).

I carry geared scissor jacks; these are a bit, only a bit, easier to use 
than 'direct drive' jacks. They /should/ work better than they do, 
probably because of cheap, stamped gears, but still better than direct 
drive. I bought them years ago, and only found the second one after a 
bit of online searching; for some reason they are not available anymore 
(I have no idea why, except they were a tad more expensive).

Bob

On 10/6/2021 7:08 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> I carry a scissor jack which is stowed in the space formerly occupied 
> by the left-side 6 volt battery.
> I also carry a short piece of 2" x 6" with beveled ends to run up upon 
> and gain sufficient ground clearance for the jack in case of a flat to 
> one of the rear tires.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:01 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some
>     considerations I need to address.? This is not a 100% concours
>     restoration.? I am compromising in a few areas for better
>     functionality and use of the car.? For example, my voltage
>     regulator is converted to positive ground solid state.? In the
>     case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit, to
>     include an original jack. For those of you that feel the same way,
>     I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a
>     good choice. What jack do you carry with the car?
>     Mike MacLean
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct  6 08:31:44 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 07:31:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
In-Reply-To: <005201d7baaa$38cacb20$aa606160$@sympatico.ca>
References: <001301d7b9fb$fa281660$ee784320$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <005201d7baaa$38cacb20$aa606160$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <f82fdd92-8d92-7926-78e8-5472fb4c797a@comcast.net>

re: "... you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal ..."

I've read in a couple places that 'the clutch pedal should always be 
pressed all the way to the floor' (or similar). My Mustang's owner's 
manual says it, and IIRC I've read it WRT Healeys and other manual 
gearbox'd cars. No explanation was given, and I've just assumed this 
assures the clutch is disengaged as much as possible to avoid crunching 
gears. Anyone know the canonical reason?

My BN2 has a 'pedal shaker'--Curt A. will know what I'm referring 
to--the pedal hits the poorly-shaped aftermarket downpipe before full 
travel.

Bob



On 10/6/2021 5:03 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Simon,? that does not sound bad to me.? It is hard to actually 
> determine how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it 
> may not be quite in the last ? of travel.? If the clutch arm starts to 
> move once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all 
> is OK.? I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the 
> master cylinder pushrod is in good shape ? these do wear and I have 
> replaced mine several times.? When they are worn you can have a fair 
> bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.? Solution 
> is easy and cheap ? replace the cotter pin.
>
> I still have my g?box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.? 
> My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of 
> the pedal and moves a total of 5/8?, which I measured at the centre 
> cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.? I estimated that the 
> clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand 
> when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.? Probably not ? depressed as 
> you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.
>
> Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) 
> consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the 
> flywheel, or may have ?roughed it up? with some emery to remove any 
> glazing.? Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two surfaces 
> (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be 
> fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand.? With a bit of use, after 
> bedding in,? they will disengage a little more readily and you may 
> find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal.? I imagine this 
> will not be a big difference, but just slight.? This is much the same 
> as drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be 
> re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from 
> bedding in.? Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that 
> clearance automatically.? I think that is sound thinking, and I am 
> confident if it isn?t someone will tell me ?.
>
> Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at ? depression of the pedal 
> sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch 
> arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, I?d 
> say you are OK.
>
> Let us know how it goes.
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon 
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Clutch
>
> Hi,
>
> I?ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch 
> continues to be an issue.
>
> We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn?t budge until we changed 
> engine?s angle, then it slotted in.
>
> With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, 
> determined that the clutch itself can work?..
>
> With the car in 4^th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the 
> clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to 
> watch the slave.
>
> I got about ?? to ?? total movement of the slave cylinder?s push rod 
> at which point ? pedal depressed to the floor ? the clutch was 
> released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by 
> hand. ?? depression?..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the 
> last ??.
>
> That?s got to be hydraulics???
>
> I?ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the 
> slave. But I?m not optimistic as I?ve tried bleeding several times.
>
> My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I?ve owned it. +/- 
> 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a 
> problem. Good idea?
>
> Another thing?..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I 
> always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but 
> that?s mercifully seldom.
>
> Any comments?.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 ? travel???
>
> Simon
>
>

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Oct  6 09:35:33 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:35:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <12ccb240-d782-b430-f8f1-67d775b472eb@comcast.net>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7xduKg2YEMiFzWAoW=SJOWEED1r4ejd-oxkQB_xqstOQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <12ccb240-d782-b430-f8f1-67d775b472eb@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB42760192A2CC63A0708764B3BFB09@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I also use a scissor jack from an old Honda Civic junker (in a pick it yerself junk yard for $5)  because it collapses enough to fit under the car when a tire is flat. Learned the hard way from a friend with a BJ7 when several of us had to physically lift the right rear to get his whatever jack under it to change out a flat. I keep my ?original? on the shelf.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Oct 6, 2021, at 09:35, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

? I have an original 'King Dick'--or whatever it's called--jack for my BJ8, but I don't carry it because it doesn't have enough platform on either end to be even close to 'safe' to use on anything other than a flat, hard surface. Sometimes, things can't be fixed under ideal conditions (see illustration).

I carry geared scissor jacks; these are a bit, only a bit, easier to use than 'direct drive' jacks. They should work better than they do, probably because of cheap, stamped gears, but still better than direct drive. I bought them years ago, and only found the second one after a bit of online searching; for some reason they are not available anymore (I have no idea why, except they were a tad more expensive).

Bob

On 10/6/2021 7:08 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
I carry a scissor jack which is stowed in the space formerly occupied by the left-side 6 volt battery.
I also carry a short piece of 2" x 6" with beveled ends to run up upon and gain sufficient ground clearance for the jack in case of a flat to one of the rear tires.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:01 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
Mike MacLean


[cid:1C43080E-B789-42DC-ACA9-20C738F41381]_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Oct  6 10:22:56 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 16:22:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOJk0eukPph6syFZABbXJGyDHmKyoDUzGMZr4o-d=7tzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1230895084.289661.1633537376393@mail.yahoo.com>

MichaelThe jack I carry with my BJ8 Is a small plastic rectangle card with the letters AAA on it.:):):)Seriously I do carry a basic scissors jack but hope to never use it. ?If you find a jack make sure it will fit under the frame's corner when the tire is flat!!!!Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 5, 2021 4:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?

As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations I need to address.? This is not a 100% concours restoration.? I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.? For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid state.? In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit, to include an original jack.? For those of you that feel the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good choice.? What jack do you carry with the car?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From Tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Oct  6 13:08:56 2021
From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:08:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
Message-ID: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.  Got a few sputters, then a backfire that smooth.   Shortly after, same situation.  Then it was like someone turned off the key.  She died.  Waited a moment she started.  Smooth for a few seconds, then died.  I found the fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked both float bowls, full.  Checked grosse jets, not sticking.  No overflow fro manifold or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never continue running.  Called AAA, got towed home.  Any ideas??

From manifold at telus.net  Wed Oct  6 13:17:13 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 12:17:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
In-Reply-To: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <D04C6773-E1AA-451E-ADCC-53149AF95928@hxcore.ol>

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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 13:29:46 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 15:29:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
In-Reply-To: <D04C6773-E1AA-451E-ADCC-53149AF95928@hxcore.ol>
References: <D04C6773-E1AA-451E-ADCC-53149AF95928@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <B17FD92B-C022-408F-AC00-D036F053C8D5@gmail.com>

Check to see if carb needles are loose
Check dashpot oil



> On Oct 6, 2021, at 15:18, Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Sounds like you were visited by ?Lucas ? The Prince of Darkness?!
>  
>  
> From: Tom Felts via Healeys
> Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2021 12:10 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
>  
> Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.  Got a few sputters, then a backfire that smooth.   Shortly after, same situation.  Then it was like someone turned off the key.  She died.  Waited a moment she started.  Smooth for a few seconds, then died.  I found the fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked both float bowls, full.  Checked grosse jets, not sticking.  No overflow fro manifold or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never continue running.  Called AAA, got towed home.  Any ideas??
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>  
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>  
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>  
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>  
>  
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> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Oct  6 13:33:47 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 19:33:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
Message-ID: <bc587c643c502bfdf2e12313fa1df28658b9c72a@webmail>

I had the exact same scenario one day in my BJ8-just a few miles down
the road when it backfired-the car had never, ever done that-not even
when cold. I was able to limp back to the garage and upon removing the
floats noticed some "poppy seed" type residue in the bottom of the
bowls. I remembered that on the way back from a car show, I was forced
to top up with ethanol fuel (normally only run clear). The ethanol had
reacted with Sta-bil that I use to stretch the life of stored fuel.
There are two types of Sta-bil: red for clear gas and blue for ethanol
fuels-don't mix them. That may not be Tom's issue, but if it's not the
Prince, then it's something with the fuel. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: "Tom Felts", "healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday October 6 2021 12:18:18PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Strange happenings

	Sounds like you were visited by ?Lucas ? The Prince of
Darkness?! 

	FROM: Tom Felts via Healeys
SENT: Wednesday, October 6, 2021 12:10 PM
TO: healeys
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Strange happenings  

	Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.
Got a few sputters, then a backfire that smooth. Shortly after, same
situation. Then it was like someone turned off the key. She died.
Waited a moment she started. Smooth for a few seconds, then died. I
found the fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked
both float bowls, full. Checked grosse jets, not sticking. No overflow
fro manifold or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never
continue running. Called AAA, got towed home. Any ideas?? 

	 _______________________________________________ 

	Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [1] 

	Suggested annual donation $12.75 

	Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2]
http://autox.team.net/archive [3] 

	Healeys at autox.team.net 

	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [4] 

	Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net [5] 

	   

Links:
------
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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Oct  6 14:14:26 2021
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 20:14:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>

I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in the left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack designs won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes up little room when stored in the boot.

Mike Brooks'56 BN2Scotland

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?

As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations I need to address.? This is not a 100% concours restoration.? I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.? For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid state.? In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool kit, to include an original jack.? For those of you that feel the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good choice.? What jack do you carry with the car?
Mike MacLean

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 15:22:12 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 17:22:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
In-Reply-To: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4STRwCaRm+NZ82V+7wNZcskHCN6gAK91Xyp5hNR2xD2w@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Tom--

Without knowing more I will accuse the ignition system of being complicit.
What kind are you running?

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 3:10 PM Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.  Got a
> few sputters, then a backfire that smooth.   Shortly after, same
> situation.  Then it was like someone turned off the key.  She died.  Waited
> a moment she started.  Smooth for a few seconds, then died.  I found the
> fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked both float
> bowls, full.  Checked grosse jets, not sticking.  No overflow fro manifold
> or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never continue running.  Called
> AAA, got towed home.  Any ideas??
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 15:24:32 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 17:24:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B63JRQpdWOYByhWYxoV1Ba_GGwQ9uHWTfCgYtDoBm6bqg@mail.gmail.com>

Mike--

I used to keep my scissor jack there but after going to a 12 Volt battery I
decided to store it where the left hand 6 volt batt used to live.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 4:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in the
> left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack designs
> won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes up
> little room when stored in the boot.
>
> Mike Brooks
> '56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>
> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
> I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
> compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
> For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
> state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
> kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
> I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
> choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 15:29:44 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 14:29:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>

Have been thinking of 12V electric scissor jacks available on Ebay  About
the same size as a small scissor jack with a small electric motor.  Jack is
rated at 2 tons.  Certainly enough to lift a corner of the BN2.  Bending
over to "crank" a scissor jack is not as appealing as just standing there
with a control pendant in your hand.
Mike MacLean

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284289656593

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in the
> left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack designs
> won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes up
> little room when stored in the boot.
>
> Mike Brooks
> '56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>
> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
> I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
> compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
> For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
> state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
> kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
> I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
> choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 16:14:45 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 18:14:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6s7=P7QAiBk4fmn3-SvKdEBtP4hk7-AzWtzjnWMxOYsg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

Your message reminded me of the last time I used the scissor jack which was
about ten years ago and I am gonna send away for the 12 volt version.
Reaching under the car with a socket wrench to lift the car up was not easy
and I am sure that time has not made it any easier.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 5:41 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Have been thinking of 12V electric scissor jacks available on Ebay  About
> the same size as a small scissor jack with a small electric motor.  Jack is
> rated at 2 tons.  Certainly enough to lift a corner of the BN2.  Bending
> over to "crank" a scissor jack is not as appealing as just standing there
> with a control pendant in your hand.
> Mike MacLean
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/284289656593
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in
>> the left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack
>> designs won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes
>> up little room when stored in the boot.
>>
>> Mike Brooks
>> '56 BN2
>> Scotland
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
>> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>>
>> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some
>> considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours
>> restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and
>> use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive
>> ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a
>> concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel
>> the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be
>> a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Oct  6 16:18:22 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 22:18:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
In-Reply-To: <D04C6773-E1AA-451E-ADCC-53149AF95928@hxcore.ol>
References: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <D04C6773-E1AA-451E-ADCC-53149AF95928@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507AAD046B927DEE786E335D1B09@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Tom,
Did you by any chance remove the float chamber lid  lately? If so perhaps the serrated fiber washer was not reinstalled at the same location and no air can come in causing the car to stall. It will run for a short while than stall if that is the case.

Jean
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Harold Manifold via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2021 2:18 PM
To: Tom Felts<mailto:Tomfelts at windstream.net>; healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Strange happenings

Sounds like you were visited by ?Lucas ? The Prince of Darkness?!


From: Tom Felts via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2021 12:10 PM
To: healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings

Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.  Got a few sputters, then a backfire that smooth.   Shortly after, same situation.  Then it was like someone turned off the key.  She died.  Waited a moment she started.  Smooth for a few seconds, then died.  I found the fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked both float bowls, full.  Checked grosse jets, not sticking.  No overflow fro manifold or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never continue running.  Called AAA, got towed home.  Any ideas??
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net



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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 18:35:05 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 17:35:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>

I hate to throw shade on your idea, but what if that little (Chinese?)
electric motor failed to work when you needed it.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 2:41 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Have been thinking of 12V electric scissor jacks available on Ebay  About
> the same size as a small scissor jack with a small electric motor.  Jack is
> rated at 2 tons.  Certainly enough to lift a corner of the BN2.  Bending
> over to "crank" a scissor jack is not as appealing as just standing there
> with a control pendant in your hand.
> Mike MacLean
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/284289656593
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in
>> the left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack
>> designs won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes
>> up little room when stored in the boot.
>>
>> Mike Brooks
>> '56 BN2
>> Scotland
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
>> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>>
>> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some
>> considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours
>> restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and
>> use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive
>> ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a
>> concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel
>> the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be
>> a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 19:11:54 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 18:11:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMAVrFCAwUxjbcMN2fF=QjGahcTXZAJpzxRL7noD=a46Q@mail.gmail.com>

Well, a tow truck is only a cell phone call away.
Mike M

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 5:35 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I hate to throw shade on your idea, but what if that little (Chinese?)
> electric motor failed to work when you needed it.
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 2:41 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Have been thinking of 12V electric scissor jacks available on Ebay  About
>> the same size as a small scissor jack with a small electric motor.  Jack is
>> rated at 2 tons.  Certainly enough to lift a corner of the BN2.  Bending
>> over to "crank" a scissor jack is not as appealing as just standing there
>> with a control pendant in your hand.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/284289656593
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in
>>> the left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack
>>> designs won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes
>>> up little room when stored in the boot.
>>>
>>> Mike Brooks
>>> '56 BN2
>>> Scotland
>>>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>>> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
>>> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>>>
>>> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some
>>> considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours
>>> restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and
>>> use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive
>>> ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a
>>> concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel
>>> the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be
>>> a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 19:59:11 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 18:59:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-9BqcNsTot=DMsUiGVQ9R5Yj=V3c7L5RBf02RRvYTiig@mail.gmail.com>

I carry a small scissor jack with a small motor that hooks up to my
battery.  I just hit the button and the car raises and lowers without have
to turn a crank.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in the
> left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack designs
> won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes up
> little room when stored in the boot.
>
> Mike Brooks
> '56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>
> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some considerations
> I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours restoration.  I am
> compromising in a few areas for better functionality and use of the car.
> For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive ground solid
> state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a concours tool
> kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel the same way,
> I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be a good
> choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 20:58:08 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 10:58:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Strange happenings
In-Reply-To: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884591186.317586686.1633547336771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+S=3XMFJCZx4eVZogzC5P6TO-ZZ2Dh5qMfccnJyBGdew@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

A few things to try

1) remove the black and white wire from your coil that goes to the battery
switch and see if that fixes the problem.

2) if not pull wire off spark plug and turn over with ignition and see if
you get a spark to the screwdriver to the plug lead.  No spark will lead
you in the right direction...

although, 1) sounds to me as likely your problem

Other stuff might be (in order of checking):

3) rotor replacement
4) check coil to dizzy wire [are you using suppressed wires with the lucas
dizzy cap?  big no no],
5) replace condenser [if you are using one]
6) replace dizzy cap
7) Change to coil you know is working

Best,

Alan


On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 3:10 AM Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Went for a drive in the BJ8 today. Running along a smooth as silk.  Got a
> few sputters, then a backfire that smooth.   Shortly after, same
> situation.  Then it was like someone turned off the key.  She died.  Waited
> a moment she started.  Smooth for a few seconds, then died.  I found the
> fuel pump was working and I had fuel to noth carbs. Checked both float
> bowls, full.  Checked grosse jets, not sticking.  No overflow fro manifold
> or carbs. Kept the start/shut off and would never continue running.  Called
> AAA, got towed home.  Any ideas??
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Oct  6 21:13:15 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:13:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?jacks?=
Message-ID: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>

before you buy a jack and carry it around for a few years, let the air out of a front and back tire to see if the jack will fit 
under a lift point.  i learned this the hard way.

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 21:26:42 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 23:26:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4n0eztEve+ri6Xn=ryBpa+LF=g91NqTj8EaSAbVcaj6A@mail.gmail.com>

Richard--

The one I saw online also had a hand-crank which is probably
connected--through the motor--to the input shaft of the jack, so in the
event the motor fails you are simply back to hand-cranking.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:36 PM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I hate to throw shade on your idea, but what if that little (Chinese?)
> electric motor failed to work when you needed it.
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 2:41 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Have been thinking of 12V electric scissor jacks available on Ebay  About
>> the same size as a small scissor jack with a small electric motor.  Jack is
>> rated at 2 tons.  Certainly enough to lift a corner of the BN2.  Bending
>> over to "crank" a scissor jack is not as appealing as just standing there
>> with a control pendant in your hand.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/284289656593
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:29 PM mike brooks via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a small scissor jack which I carry in the boot of my 100 BN2 in
>>> the left hand well. The low ground clearance means that many other jack
>>> designs won't fit under when you need it! It's also small, light and takes
>>> up little room when stored in the boot.
>>>
>>> Mike Brooks
>>> '56 BN2
>>> Scotland
>>>
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>>> MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 5, 2021 4:36:47 PM
>>> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] What Jack?
>>>
>>> As I continue with the restoration of my BN2 there are some
>>> considerations I need to address.  This is not a 100% concours
>>> restoration.  I am compromising in a few areas for better functionality and
>>> use of the car.  For example, my voltage regulator is converted to positive
>>> ground solid state.  In the case of carrying tools, I am not seeking a
>>> concours tool kit, to include an original jack.  For those of you that feel
>>> the same way, I was wondering what a good modern aftermarket jack would be
>>> a good choice.  What jack do you carry with the car?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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-- 
Best--Michael
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 21:37:55 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 23:37:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] jacks
In-Reply-To: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7LAw0jgvorcoNzDv1A1U9oLWKHOvAncYzfUC+pw1MXOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jim--

See my comment about carrying a short length of 2" x 6" with both ends
beveled onto which I drive the deflated tire in order to create sufficient
clearance (about 4" is necessary) to get the jack under the rear transverse
member.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 11:26 PM healeymanjim via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> before you buy a jack and carry it around for a few years, let the air out
> of a front and back tire to see if the jack will fit
> under a lift point.  i learned this the hard way.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 21:51:13 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:51:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] jacks
In-Reply-To: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <rirslglvbsqh0uhjf9jj2e5sp9njvt55vi@4ax.com>

that's what the short length of 2 by 4 or 2 by 6 is for, to get that
rim up another inch and a half.  just in case.

On Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:13:15 -0700, you wrote:

>before you buy a jack and carry it around for a few years, let the air out of a front and back tire to see if the jack will fit 
>under a lift point.  i learned this the hard way.
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Healeys at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com

-- 
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From healey100m at me.com  Wed Oct  6 22:26:27 2021
From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 00:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
Message-ID: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>

Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts, experiences, suggestions ?

Randy Hicks

Sent from my iPad

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 22:44:45 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 00:44:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] jacks
In-Reply-To: <rirslglvbsqh0uhjf9jj2e5sp9njvt55vi@4ax.com>
References: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
 <rirslglvbsqh0uhjf9jj2e5sp9njvt55vi@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5LGD01ruPEJUGh0_3WsGHnHdXOKHsqs-GLkjG7qkfKVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bingo Roland!

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 12:05 AM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> that's what the short length of 2 by 4 or 2 by 6 is for, to get that
> rim up another inch and a half.  just in case.
>
> On Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:13:15 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >before you buy a jack and carry it around for a few years, let the air
> out of a front and back tire to see if the jack will fit
> >under a lift point.  i learned this the hard way.
> >_______________________________________________
> >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> >Healeys at autox.team.net
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>

-- 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 22:46:41 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 00:46:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5LkdEbE+uQG8avbqFAQ-iGRuEKY-pXADQGh1JdcjyyBA@mail.gmail.com>

I have them in my BN1's Le Mans H6 carbs w/no problems.

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 12:40 AM Randall Hicks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be
> switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts,
> experiences, suggestions ?
>
> Randy Hicks
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 22:57:36 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2021 21:57:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] jacks
In-Reply-To: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20211007031315.64741.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89=9Yj_ZdSz+ENND7R6O6mFYXU3MN5ayQbcDLTkjxLWjA@mail.gmail.com>

The wood idea is brilliant

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 8:26 PM healeymanjim via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> before you buy a jack and carry it around for a few years, let the air out
> of a front and back tire to see if the jack will fit
> under a lift point.  i learned this the hard way.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 23:03:56 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2021 22:03:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
Message-ID: <bsvslg5u7e29m2e1oe52obsfatdphcu3co@4ax.com>

Some swear by them. others swear at them.  I am in the latter camp.
-Roland

On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 00:26:27 -0400, you wrote:

>Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts, experiences, suggestions ?
>
>Randy Hicks
>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct  6 23:48:54 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 13:48:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL6wYcoBjf0Kzp2tatb+u7wmPOb5MMjAr0dZgMRPdDU3g@mail.gmail.com>

I actually do like Grose Jets, but I think to work effectively you need to
be driving the car all the time.

If it sits for any length of time I think using the old school jets are
more likely to start working with a tap of a mallot. Old jets work well

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 12:40 PM Randall Hicks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be
> switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts,
> experiences, suggestions ?
>
> Randy Hicks
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Oct  7 04:50:37 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 06:50:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
Message-ID: <024501d7bb69$29f43770$7ddca650$@rr.com>

Randy, I replaced the stock needle valves with Grose-Jets in my BJ8 in May 1995 to fix a persistent overflow of the carbs.  It stopped the overflow permanently and after 100,000 miles they are still performing just fine.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC USA

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, October 7, 2021 12:26 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets

 

Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts, experiences, suggestions ?

 

Randy Hicks

 

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct  7 08:15:41 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 22:15:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <024501d7bb69$29f43770$7ddca650$@rr.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
 <024501d7bb69$29f43770$7ddca650$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLBpyZ4vE1U-3zHBvw-sWBr=BYmXmY1PHNkdLGOcnXwHg@mail.gmail.com>

But we all know Steve you drive your BJ8 all the time.... Grose Jets work
better that way I think

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 7:00 PM BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Randy, I replaced the stock needle valves with Grose-Jets in my BJ8 in May
> 1995 to fix a persistent overflow of the carbs.  It stopped the overflow
> permanently and after 100,000 miles they are still performing just fine.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Randall Hicks via Healeys
> Sent: Thursday, October 7, 2021 12:26 AM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
>
>
>
> Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be
> switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts,
> experiences, suggestions ?
>
>
>
> Randy Hicks
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Oct  7 08:17:45 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 07:17:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <bsvslg5u7e29m2e1oe52obsfatdphcu3co@4ax.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
 <bsvslg5u7e29m2e1oe52obsfatdphcu3co@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <e81b6e6e-27b0-f279-cb78-7c1467abe74f@comcast.net>

I've had them in my BJ8 for a couple decades with no issues; I tried 
them in my BN2 a decade or so ago, and had problems* (the little 'top' 
ball would stick in its seat occasionally). FWIW, I heard on the 
'grapevine' that the company had changed hands and, as often happens, 
quality suffered as the bottom line took precedence (story of our 
existence these days).

* We had fuel delivery issues, but my dad traced it to a pinhole leak on 
the pickup tube in the tank, but before that I had been checking 
pumps--the 'usual suspect'--float levels, etc. a lot when I noticed the 
sticking on the bench. Dad surmised the flux used to solder the tube had 
eaten the metal (this was a used, OEM tank that was otherwise in good 
shape).

Bob


On 10/6/2021 10:03 PM, sentenac.rw--- via Healeys wrote:
> Some swear by them. others swear at them.  I am in the latter camp.
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 7 Oct 2021 00:26:27 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> Hi, I?m rebuilding part of my BJ8 carbs and wondering if I should be switching to Grose-Jets vs. the traditional needle & seat.  Thoughts, experiences, suggestions ?
>>
>> Randy Hicks
>>


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Oct  7 12:31:24 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 19:31:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
Message-ID: <000001d7bba9$8ab565d0$a0203170$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Thank you all for your replies.

The gearbox has got to come out again. 

Have really got beyond comment.

Simon

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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  7 17:14:17 2021
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 16:14:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A48349EAB2448AE877FCA247E03A2C9@LeonardPCPC>


All is not lost if the motor fails.  The jack comes with a small crank that you insert in the gearbox to raise and lower it manually.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
          * 221,567 miles *

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: richard mayor via Healeys 
  To: Michael MacLean 
  Cc: Ahealey help ; mike brooks 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2021 5:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?


  I hate to throw shade on your idea, but what if that little (Chinese?) electric motor failed to work when you needed it.



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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct  7 18:15:22 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2021 08:15:22 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <e81b6e6e-27b0-f279-cb78-7c1467abe74f@comcast.net>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
 <bsvslg5u7e29m2e1oe52obsfatdphcu3co@4ax.com>
 <e81b6e6e-27b0-f279-cb78-7c1467abe74f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKGBi-ib7a1Wv321kFWWNqfM2czmWPkn8MeuRKzBnwpyQ@mail.gmail.com>

After all of us discussing Grose Jets for years, I think it really boils
down to the modes of failure for both:

1) Traditional jets typically only have one mode of failure - they kink in
place and freeze open, and fuel flows out the overflow pipes.  This only
happens on startup and if you are paying attention you can stop it with a
tap of the mallot.  This failure doesn?t happen very often but fuel can be
wasted.  The failure is minimized with proper adjustment.  Traditional jets
handle crud in the fuel generally quite well.

2) Grose Jets can fail both closed and open.  They are VERY sensitive to
crud in the fuel and if they fail open, sometimes tapping with a mallot
doesn?t work because something is jammed in the balls.  Grose jets can also
fail closed if the little ball gets stuck.  I?ve had both modes of failure
with them.

In my use experience I haven?t seen much difference between the two, and
having had Grose Jets shut off my fuel in the past I tend to favor the
traditional style, esp when they have the little spring loaded peg and
rubber tip.

Best,

Alan

>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct  7 18:17:21 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2021 08:17:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Grose-Jets
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKGBi-ib7a1Wv321kFWWNqfM2czmWPkn8MeuRKzBnwpyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <617A842F-D6A2-4B1C-AE09-540308B4C17C@me.com>
 <bsvslg5u7e29m2e1oe52obsfatdphcu3co@4ax.com>
 <e81b6e6e-27b0-f279-cb78-7c1467abe74f@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkKGBi-ib7a1Wv321kFWWNqfM2czmWPkn8MeuRKzBnwpyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLWyqRrZh_m6sxG9x6oE28=42QoFUkZZ8ux4PJA=LCLYA@mail.gmail.com>

one final point - if you have a partially flooded float, Grose Jets work
better, but I use nitrile floats now so it doesn?t really matter now.

On Fri, 8 Oct 2021 at 8:15 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> After all of us discussing Grose Jets for years, I think it really boils
> down to the modes of failure for both:
>
> 1) Traditional jets typically only have one mode of failure - they kink in
> place and freeze open, and fuel flows out the overflow pipes.  This only
> happens on startup and if you are paying attention you can stop it with a
> tap of the mallot.  This failure doesn?t happen very often but fuel can be
> wasted.  The failure is minimized with proper adjustment.  Traditional jets
> handle crud in the fuel generally quite well.
>
> 2) Grose Jets can fail both closed and open.  They are VERY sensitive to
> crud in the fuel and if they fail open, sometimes tapping with a mallot
> doesn?t work because something is jammed in the balls.  Grose jets can also
> fail closed if the little ball gets stuck.  I?ve had both modes of failure
> with them.
>
> In my use experience I haven?t seen much difference between the two, and
> having had Grose Jets shut off my fuel in the past I tend to favor the
> traditional style, esp when they have the little spring loaded peg and
> rubber tip.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>>
>>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Oct  7 20:18:07 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2021 19:18:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
In-Reply-To: <4A48349EAB2448AE877FCA247E03A2C9@LeonardPCPC>
References: <120591930.12972.1633551266664.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <120591930.12972.1633551266664@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM=d4=1L3Ufk-uoxuc7Lr4uxjeyeJdwkUgosVkz4yc4nQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqPVQN61dVEhGuSyLisCkLYi=UcaBRWMC+3Ye7R5R8hbDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4A48349EAB2448AE877FCA247E03A2C9@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-bBtdeEYk1-QBHiRohWQGw=_9oA7zvrVpoiZaoVzZhbw@mail.gmail.com>

As stated, manual over ride

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021, 4:15 PM Len and/or Marge Hartnett via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> All is not lost if the motor fails.  The jack comes with a small crank
> that you insert in the gearbox to raise and lower it manually.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>           * 221,567 miles *
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *To:* Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net> ; mike brooks
> <hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 06, 2021 5:35 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Re - What Jack?
>
> I hate to throw shade on your idea, but what if that little (Chinese?)
> electric motor failed to work when you needed it.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct  9 17:21:28 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2021 16:21:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft top finishing
References: <016901d7bd64$634a4530$29decf90$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <016901d7bd64$634a4530$29decf90$@sbcglobal.net>

I took out my soft top to place it on the car and I noticed the trim was
captured under the aluminum trim piece except at the corners. It has been
like this for years and there may be a reason why I installed it that way.

 

Should the soft top be under the entire distance of the trim piece or over
it? In other words, should the trim piece capture it or not?

 



 

Thanks,

John Spaur

San Jose

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Oct 10 04:30:34 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 06:30:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
Message-ID: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

After 3 days of intense troubleshooting and racking my feeble brain on why this happened, I FINALLY found out why.  Background-------was having a pleasant drive-----felt a slight miss------BIG backfire--sputtering then cutting off.  Sat for a while, she started and I drove maybe 100 yards.  Repeat of above------------sat beside the road and checked to see if I had fuel to the carbs--yes-----pulled float bowl lids and plenty of gas in float bowls.  had spark to plugs.   Nothing obvious--so called AAA--got towed home.Next several days I tried the switch and check method----changed fuel pump----changed coil,  changed rotor, replaced dist cap, pulled the battery cut-off sw and directly shorted to body ground, checked to make sure the low tension wire had not grounded itself.  ALL--to no avail.  so I was down to my last idea.That was to pull and replace the Pertronix Ignitor.  As I was taking it out, The cause of this whole mess became apparent.  The hot wire from the Ignitor to the coil had been rubbed raw on one side of the wire, exposing just a tiny amount of the inner wire.  It was this small amount of exposed wire that was shorting intermittingly.  and this was the source of my problem.  Apparently, over time the rotor had rubbed the wire until it rubbed enough insulation off to expose the wire. This shows how long that Pertronix had been in there.This was truly an AH HA moment.  Happy I found it but so very flustrated over what it took to discover it. But in the process I got a new fuel pump (electronic), new dist cap, new rotor, new Ignitor, new Pertronix coil, and a lot of knowledge:)Glad the root cause was finally found and fixed and she is purring again:)TomAnyway, replace
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 10 08:12:15 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 07:12:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
In-Reply-To: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <b4b20b80-87c4-ce59-b756-346a16d837d4@comcast.net>

Thanks for reporting, Tom. When I read you suspected the Pertronix I 
thought: "This is the first I've heard of an Ignitor becoming 
intermittent (I'd always heard they failed outright."


On 10/10/2021 3:30 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> After 3 days of intense troubleshooting and racking my feeble brain on 
> why this happened, I FINALLY found out why. Background-------was 
> having a pleasant drive-----felt a slight miss------BIG 
> backfire--sputtering then cutting off.? Sat for a while, she started 
> and I drove maybe 100 yards.? Repeat of above------------sat beside 
> the road and checked to see if I had fuel to the carbs--yes-----pulled 
> float bowl lids and plenty of gas in float bowls.? had spark to 
> plugs.? ?Nothing obvious--so called AAA--got towed home.
>
> Next several days I tried the switch and check method----changed fuel 
> pump----changed coil,? changed rotor, replaced dist cap, pulled the 
> battery cut-off sw and directly shorted to body ground, checked to 
> make sure the low tension wire had not grounded itself.? ALL--to no 
> avail.? so I was down to my last idea.
>
> That was to pull and replace the Pertronix Ignitor.? As I was taking 
> it out, The cause of this whole mess became apparent. The hot wire 
> from the Ignitor to the coil had been rubbed raw on one side of the 
> wire, exposing just a tiny amount of the inner wire.? It was this 
> small amount of exposed wire that was shorting intermittingly.? and 
> this was the source of my problem.
> Apparently, over time the rotor had rubbed the wire until it rubbed 
> enough insulation off to expose the wire. This shows how long that 
> Pertronix had been in there.
>
> This was truly an AH HA moment.? Happy I found it but so very 
> flustrated over what it took to discover it. But in the process I got 
> a new fuel pump (electronic), new dist cap, new rotor, new Ignitor, 
> new Pertronix coil, and a lot of knowledge:)
>
> Glad the root cause was finally found and fixed and she is purring again:)
>
> Tom
>
> Anyway, replace
>
>
>
>

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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Sun Oct 10 09:48:12 2021
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 11:48:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
In-Reply-To: <b4b20b80-87c4-ce59-b756-346a16d837d4@comcast.net>
References: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <b4b20b80-87c4-ce59-b756-346a16d837d4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3a086fe3-0304-0e84-ac91-457e1cd695d8@htcnet.org>

I've had two ignitor failures; one the magnet support unglued and they 
all fell out; dead stop; two a constant miss, one magnet was reversed.? 
But generally they have been quite reliable.

John
Hightown, VA

On 10/10/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Thanks for reporting, Tom. When I read you suspected the Pertronix I 
> thought: "This is the first I've heard of an Ignitor becoming 
> intermittent (I'd always heard they failed outright."
>
>
> On 10/10/2021 3:30 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>> After 3 days of intense troubleshooting and racking my feeble brain 
>> on why this happened, I FINALLY found out why. Background-------was 
>> having a pleasant drive-----felt a slight miss------BIG 
>> backfire--sputtering then cutting off.? Sat for a while, she started 
>> and I drove maybe 100 yards.? Repeat of above------------sat beside 
>> the road and checked to see if I had fuel to the 
>> carbs--yes-----pulled float bowl lids and plenty of gas in float 
>> bowls.? had spark to plugs.? ?Nothing obvious--so called AAA--got 
>> towed home.
>>
>> Next several days I tried the switch and check method----changed fuel 
>> pump----changed coil,? changed rotor, replaced dist cap, pulled the 
>> battery cut-off sw and directly shorted to body ground, checked to 
>> make sure the low tension wire had not grounded itself.? ALL--to no 
>> avail.? so I was down to my last idea.
>>
>> That was to pull and replace the Pertronix Ignitor.? As I was taking 
>> it out, The cause of this whole mess became apparent.? The hot wire 
>> from the Ignitor to the coil had been rubbed raw on one side of the 
>> wire, exposing just a tiny amount of the inner wire.? It was this 
>> small amount of exposed wire that was shorting intermittingly.? and 
>> this was the source of my problem.
>> Apparently, over time the rotor had rubbed the wire until it rubbed 
>> enough insulation off to expose the wire. This shows how long that 
>> Pertronix had been in there.
>>
>> This was truly an AH HA moment.? Happy I found it but so very 
>> flustrated over what it took to discover it. But in the process I got 
>> a new fuel pump (electronic), new dist cap, new rotor, new Ignitor, 
>> new Pertronix coil, and a lot of knowledge:)
>>
>> Glad the root cause was finally found and fixed and she is purring 
>> again:)
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> Anyway, replace
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

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From Tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Oct 10 10:25:47 2021
From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 12:25:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
In-Reply-To: <3a086fe3-0304-0e84-ac91-457e1cd695d8@htcnet.org>
References: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <b4b20b80-87c4-ce59-b756-346a16d837d4@comcast.net>
 <3a086fe3-0304-0e84-ac91-457e1cd695d8@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <1372658139.324713380.1633883147136.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I've had excellent results with Pertronics, and this wasnt the fault of it.  Thiscwas a wire from it contacting the rotor and rubbing the insulation off the wire, causing an intermittent short.  That Igniter has been in the car for years and never a failure

----- Original Message -----
From: John Vrugtman via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 11:48:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down

I've had two ignitor failures; one the magnet support unglued and they 
all fell out; dead stop; two a constant miss, one magnet was reversed.? 
But generally they have been quite reliable.

John
Hightown, VA

On 10/10/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Thanks for reporting, Tom. When I read you suspected the Pertronix I 
> thought: "This is the first I've heard of an Ignitor becoming 
> intermittent (I'd always heard they failed outright."
>
>
> On 10/10/2021 3:30 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>> After 3 days of intense troubleshooting and racking my feeble brain 
>> on why this happened, I FINALLY found out why. Background-------was 
>> having a pleasant drive-----felt a slight miss------BIG 
>> backfire--sputtering then cutting off.? Sat for a while, she started 
>> and I drove maybe 100 yards.? Repeat of above------------sat beside 
>> the road and checked to see if I had fuel to the 
>> carbs--yes-----pulled float bowl lids and plenty of gas in float 
>> bowls.? had spark to plugs.? ?Nothing obvious--so called AAA--got 
>> towed home.
>>
>> Next several days I tried the switch and check method----changed fuel 
>> pump----changed coil,? changed rotor, replaced dist cap, pulled the 
>> battery cut-off sw and directly shorted to body ground, checked to 
>> make sure the low tension wire had not grounded itself.? ALL--to no 
>> avail.? so I was down to my last idea.
>>
>> That was to pull and replace the Pertronix Ignitor.? As I was taking 
>> it out, The cause of this whole mess became apparent.? The hot wire 
>> from the Ignitor to the coil had been rubbed raw on one side of the 
>> wire, exposing just a tiny amount of the inner wire.? It was this 
>> small amount of exposed wire that was shorting intermittingly.? and 
>> this was the source of my problem.
>> Apparently, over time the rotor had rubbed the wire until it rubbed 
>> enough insulation off to expose the wire. This shows how long that 
>> Pertronix had been in there.
>>
>> This was truly an AH HA moment.? Happy I found it but so very 
>> flustrated over what it took to discover it. But in the process I got 
>> a new fuel pump (electronic), new dist cap, new rotor, new Ignitor, 
>> new Pertronix coil, and a lot of knowledge:)
>>
>> Glad the root cause was finally found and fixed and she is purring 
>> again:)
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> Anyway, replace
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>



From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 10 10:36:01 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 09:36:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
In-Reply-To: <1372658139.324713380.1633883147136.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1039904904.324298693.1633861834662.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <b4b20b80-87c4-ce59-b756-346a16d837d4@comcast.net>
 <3a086fe3-0304-0e84-ac91-457e1cd695d8@htcnet.org>
 <1372658139.324713380.1633883147136.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <97bafb26-a5dd-c676-e354-2442efe5a36b@comcast.net>

It even helped you find the /real/ problem ;)

On 10/10/2021 9:25 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> I've had excellent results with Pertronics, and this wasnt the fault of it.  Thiscwas a wire from it contacting the rotor and rubbing the insulation off the wire, causing an intermittent short.  That Igniter has been in the car for years and never a failure
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Vrugtman via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 11:48:12 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] update--BJ8--puttering, backfiring and shutting down
>
> I've had two ignitor failures; one the magnet support unglued and they
> all fell out; dead stop; two a constant miss, one magnet was reversed.
> But generally they have been quite reliable.
>
> John
> Hightown, VA
>
> On 10/10/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Thanks for reporting, Tom. When I read you suspected the Pertronix I
>> thought: "This is the first I've heard of an Ignitor becoming
>> intermittent (I'd always heard they failed outright."
>>
>>
>> On 10/10/2021 3:30 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>>> After 3 days of intense troubleshooting and racking my feeble brain
>>> on why this happened, I FINALLY found out why. Background-------was
>>> having a pleasant drive-----felt a slight miss------BIG
>>> backfire--sputtering then cutting off.? Sat for a while, she started
>>> and I drove maybe 100 yards.? Repeat of above------------sat beside
>>> the road and checked to see if I had fuel to the
>>> carbs--yes-----pulled float bowl lids and plenty of gas in float
>>> bowls.? had spark to plugs.? ?Nothing obvious--so called AAA--got
>>> towed home.
>>>
>>> Next several days I tried the switch and check method----changed fuel
>>> pump----changed coil,? changed rotor, replaced dist cap, pulled the
>>> battery cut-off sw and directly shorted to body ground, checked to
>>> make sure the low tension wire had not grounded itself.? ALL--to no
>>> avail.? so I was down to my last idea.
>>>
>>> That was to pull and replace the Pertronix Ignitor.? As I was taking
>>> it out, The cause of this whole mess became apparent.? The hot wire
>>> from the Ignitor to the coil had been rubbed raw on one side of the
>>> wire, exposing just a tiny amount of the inner wire.? It was this
>>> small amount of exposed wire that was shorting intermittingly.? and
>>> this was the source of my problem.
>>> Apparently, over time the rotor had rubbed the wire until it rubbed
>>> enough insulation off to expose the wire. This shows how long that
>>> Pertronix had been in there.
>>>
>>> This was truly an AH HA moment.? Happy I found it but so very
>>> flustrated over what it took to discover it. But in the process I got
>>> a new fuel pump (electronic), new dist cap, new rotor, new Ignitor,
>>> new Pertronix coil, and a lot of knowledge:)
>>>
>>> Glad the root cause was finally found and fixed and she is purring
>>> again:)
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> Anyway, replace
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Oct 10 13:13:33 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 12:13:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs
Message-ID: <BD3D4AEE-36E9-45C0-820B-F66873F5056A@hxcore.ol>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Oct 10 14:05:38 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 20:05:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs
Message-ID: <3b02cbba059b5abdf1f3b12f6e7e5b214c7dc6f6@webmail>

Harold- I would purchase replacement springs from Overdrive Spares in
UK. It appears that you would want to get 4 new short springs (the're
tired), and if all 4 long look equally correct you could re-use them.
The importance being that together they "equally" put pressure on the
clutch lining to keep the car in direct drive (without slipping). Be
sure to put the shorts (inner) and long (outer) in properly or they
will coil bind and really not work well.
I don't know the spring rates, but if you get them from OD Spares,
they will be the right ones for the job. Be sure to give them the
overdrive number on the casing for reference to get the correct set.
Moss has them as well as AH Spares, but did they come from OD Spares,
or made in ...? Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday October 10 2021 12:20:46PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs

	I am rebuilding a 22/3087 Overdrive from a BJ7. What should the free
length of the clutch springs be? All 8 are made from 0.095? diameter
wire. The long springs measure 4-7/16? to 4-15/32? and the short
springs are 4-1/16? to 4-1/8?. The manual states the springs
should be 4-1/2? and 4-1/4?. I was surprised the short springs are
more undersized than the long springs. 

	I saw some mention that the clutch springs in earlier OD models were
made from two different wire sizes. Does anyone know the wire diameter
of length of new springs from a reputable supplier? 

	Thanks? Harold 

	
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 10 14:43:19 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 13:43:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs
In-Reply-To: <3b02cbba059b5abdf1f3b12f6e7e5b214c7dc6f6@webmail>
References: <3b02cbba059b5abdf1f3b12f6e7e5b214c7dc6f6@webmail>
Message-ID: <e5615e33-ee43-a30a-dbcc-1fb408ab9cb1@comcast.net>

I believe the shop manual says the springs 'must be renewed at overhaul' 
(or similar Britism). Mine looked fine at over 200K miles, but I sprung 
(heh) for new. Not cheap, but pulling gearboxes and, especially getting 
the O/D to mate up to it is no fun either.


On 10/10/2021 1:05 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
> Harold- I would purchase replacement springs from Overdrive Spares in 
> UK. It appears that you would want to get 4 new short springs (the're 
> tired), and if all 4 long look equally correct you could re-use them. 
> The importance being that together they "equally" put pressure on the 
> clutch lining to keep the car in direct drive (without slipping).? Be 
> sure to put the shorts (inner) and long (outer) in properly or they 
> will coil bind and really not work well.
>
> I don't know the spring rates, but if you get them from OD Spares, 
> they will be the right ones for the job. Be sure to give them the 
> overdrive number on the casing for reference to get the correct set. 
> Moss has them as well as AH Spares, but did they come from OD Spares, 
> or made in ...?? Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday October 10 2021 12:20:46PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs
>
> I am rebuilding a 22/3087 Overdrive from a BJ7. What should the free 
> length of the clutch springs be? All 8 are made from 0.095? diameter 
> wire. The long springs measure 4-7/16? to 4-15/32? and the short 
> springs are 4-1/16? to 4-1/8?. The manual states the springs should be 
> 4-1/2? and 4-1/4?. I was surprised the short springs are more 
> undersized than the long springs.
>
> I saw some mention that the clutch springs in earlier OD models were 
> made from two different wire sizes. Does anyone know the wire diameter 
> of length of new springs from a reputable supplier?
>
> Thanks? Harold
>
>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Oct 10 14:44:48 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2021 21:44:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs
In-Reply-To: <3b02cbba059b5abdf1f3b12f6e7e5b214c7dc6f6@webmail>
References: <3b02cbba059b5abdf1f3b12f6e7e5b214c7dc6f6@webmail>
Message-ID: <000e01d7be17$b04bec90$10e3c5b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I?ve been up to ODSpares twice, once very recently. Dave?s the man when it comes to overdrives. The work he did was excellent and the parts were considerably cheaper than from the usual suspects. Most of the various ?special? parts that our usual guys sell come from OD Spares.

OD Spares:- 

Dave Twigger

10 Arches Business Centre
Mill Road
RUGBY CV21 1QW
England


Tel: 01788 540666
Fax: 01788 570777
E-Mail:  <mailto:ODSPARES at AOL.COM> ODSPARES at AOL.COM

 

What impressed me was that he positively talked me out of purchasing some parts. No ?better replace it while you?ve got the chance.? It was more like, ?these things last forever; don?t touch it?.

To set a hare running again, he said 40 or 30wt non-detergent or 20-50 but NO additives.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: 10 October 2021 21:06
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs

 

Harold- I would purchase replacement springs from Overdrive Spares in UK. It appears that you would want to get 4 new short springs (the're tired), and if all 4 long look equally correct you could re-use them. The importance being that together they "equally" put pressure on the clutch lining to keep the car in direct drive (without slipping).  Be sure to put the shorts (inner) and long (outer) in properly or they will coil bind and really not work well.

 

I don't know the spring rates, but if you get them from OD Spares, they will be the right ones for the job. Be sure to give them the overdrive number on the casing for reference to get the correct set. Moss has them as well as AH Spares, but did they come from OD Spares, or made in ...?  Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday October 10 2021 12:20:46PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive Clutch Springs

I am rebuilding a 22/3087 Overdrive from a BJ7. What should the free length of the clutch springs be? All 8 are made from 0.095? diameter wire. The long springs measure 4-7/16? to 4-15/32? and the short springs are 4-1/16? to 4-1/8?. The manual states the springs should be 4-1/2? and 4-1/4?. I was surprised the short springs are more undersized than the long springs.

 

I saw some mention that the clutch springs in earlier OD models were made from two different wire sizes. Does anyone know the wire diameter of length of new springs from a reputable supplier?

 

Thanks? Harold

 

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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Wed Oct 13 19:10:45 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2021 21:10:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
Message-ID: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>

In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Oct 13 19:27:29 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2021 18:27:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+amxZjxeukF52-qe65EM4zQxdJB3giuP8YU-nGFhjzOrA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure that you are describing what you are measuring.  14.5 volts
across the fuse suggests that the fuse creates a 14.5 volt drop --
something that fuses are not supposed to do, but it would generate a lot of
heat for sure. And current flow is measured through a circuit, again not
across a component. Have you tried replacing the fuse?
-Roland

On Wed, Oct 13, 2021, 6:11 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve measured
> amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It is very hot.
> Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct 13 21:07:21 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2021 23:07:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B49tiX07-8BKSg+hcJh6ywp3oBURHcmUNarCdT3J32Eeg@mail.gmail.com>

Resistance=heat.
Possibly the fuse or its holder is dirty or corroded.
What is the fuse protecting?

On Wed, Oct 13, 2021 at 9:11 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve measured
> amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It is very hot.
> Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 13 21:26:05 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2021 20:26:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>

Fuses should have little or no resistance (resistance creates the heat). 
Something is wrong; check for corrosion on the fuse and block, cold 
solder, etc. (try a new fuse).

Which fuse is it?


On 10/13/2021 6:10 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 13 22:13:08 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2021 21:13:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
 <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>

First, pull the fuse--when it's cold--and check its resistance.

On 10/13/2021 8:26 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Fuses should have little or no resistance (resistance creates the 
> heat). Something is wrong; check for corrosion on the fuse and block, 
> cold solder, etc. (try a new fuse).
>
> Which fuse is it?
>
>
> On 10/13/2021 6:10 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
>> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).? I?ve 
>> measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It 
>> is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>>
>> Cell: 630-841-6300
>> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Oct 14 04:13:23 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (coudesluijs at chello.nl)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 12:13:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] no messages for a while
Message-ID: <65905551.39814.1634206403731@mail.ziggo.nl>

Hi Sandro,


Apparently I have dropped of the list. I have not had any messages from the list for quite a while.

Any changes in policy?


Kind regards,

Kees Oudesluijs
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 14 08:15:24 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 07:15:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] no messages for a while
In-Reply-To: <65905551.39814.1634206403731@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <65905551.39814.1634206403731@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_VWNm5QVk1bryLgbALXGkx1MMgk2r78VDEodxX57VfGA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Kees

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021, 3:17 AM kees via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hi Sandro,
>
>
> Apparently I have dropped of the list. I have not had any messages from
> the list for quite a while.
>
> Any changes in policy?
>
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Oct 14 08:50:24 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 08:50:24 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] no messages for a while
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_VWNm5QVk1bryLgbALXGkx1MMgk2r78VDEodxX57VfGA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <65905551.39814.1634206403731@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CABXhz8_VWNm5QVk1bryLgbALXGkx1MMgk2r78VDEodxX57VfGA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a0fcf712-4808-f7f0-47e0-e6b6dd503fd8@porterscustom.com>

Get your jab? LOL

On 10/14/2021 8:15 AM, i erbs wrote:
> Hi Kees
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2021, 3:17 AM kees via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Hi Sandro,
>
>
>     Apparently I have dropped of the list. I have not had any messages
>     from the list for quite a while.
>
>     Any changes in policy?
>
>
>     Kind regards,
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Oct 14 10:13:13 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 09:13:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
 <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>,
 <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <85578CA6-5201-4F37-A333-F54305FB6256@hxcore.ol>

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Thu Oct 14 11:02:12 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 10:02:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <85578CA6-5201-4F37-A333-F54305FB6256@hxcore.ol>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
 <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>,
 <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>
 <85578CA6-5201-4F37-A333-F54305FB6256@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <7358B058DDC1425BA7215FA1213910F6@DavidNockHP>

Any where there is high resistance it will create heat. So if there is a bad connection at one of the fuse terminals the connector will get warm. And since it is not a dead short it may not blow the fuse.

Pull the fuses out and check the they are clean connections, the clips are holding fuse tight in place.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Harold Manifold via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:13 AM
To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse

I had a similar problem years ago. After changing fuses, etc without making a difference I found the problem was a poor connection between the fuse and the fuse holder. I replace the fuse box and that fixed the problem.

 

Harold

 

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2021 9:16 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse

 

First, pull the fuse--when it's cold--and check its resistance.

 

On 10/13/2021 8:26 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Fuses should have little or no resistance (resistance creates the 

> heat). Something is wrong; check for corrosion on the fuse and block, 

> cold solder, etc. (try a new fuse).

>

> Which fuse is it?

>

>

> On 10/13/2021 6:10 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:

>> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve 

>> measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It 

>> is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.

>>

>> Price Lindsay

>>

>> Cell: 630-841-6300

>> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

>>

>>

>

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

>

> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 

> http://autox.team.net/archive

>

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

>

> Unsubscribe/Manage: 

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net

>

 

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75

 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

 

Healeys at autox.team.net

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

 

 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Oct 14 11:14:31 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 13:14:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <7358B058DDC1425BA7215FA1213910F6@DavidNockHP>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
 <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>
 <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>
 <85578CA6-5201-4F37-A333-F54305FB6256@hxcore.ol>
 <7358B058DDC1425BA7215FA1213910F6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK0d_p6PswH7xN5MXPYmLt=75xPSL2XnFVYayX7h0eFGw@mail.gmail.com>

David is absolutely correct however there is also another wrinkle to this
issue.
The heat generated is often sufficient to anneal the brass "horseshoe" clip
that retains the fuse with the result that it will no longer effectively
grip the end of the fuse. When that happens there is no alternative other
than to replace the fuse block.

M

On Thu., Oct. 14, 2021, 1:05 p.m. David Nock, <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:

> Any where there is high resistance it will create heat. So if there is a
> bad connection at one of the fuse terminals the connector will get warm.
> And since it is not a dead short it may not blow the fuse.
>
> Pull the fuses out and check the they are clean connections, the clips are
> holding fuse tight in place.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>
> *From:* Harold Manifold via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:13 AM
> *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
>
>
> I had a similar problem years ago. After changing fuses, etc without
> making a difference I found the problem was a poor connection between the
> fuse and the fuse holder. I replace the fuse box and that fixed the problem.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *From: *Bob Spidell
> *Sent: *Wednesday, October 13, 2021 9:16 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
>
>
>
> First, pull the fuse--when it's cold--and check its resistance.
>
>
>
> On 10/13/2021 8:26 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > Fuses should have little or no resistance (resistance creates the
>
> > heat). Something is wrong; check for corrosion on the fuse and block,
>
> > cold solder, etc. (try a new fuse).
>
> >
>
> > Which fuse is it?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > On 10/13/2021 6:10 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
>
> >> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).  I?ve
>
> >> measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It
>
> >> is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>
> >>
>
> >> Price Lindsay
>
> >>
>
> >> Cell: 630-841-6300
>
> >> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > _______________________________________________
>
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> >
>
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> >
>
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> >
>
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
> >
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Oct 14 11:18:46 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 11:18:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
In-Reply-To: <7358B058DDC1425BA7215FA1213910F6@DavidNockHP>
References: <06FFCB26-2906-42E4-9550-C95299BBB94B@gmail.com>
 <2f489d34-39f7-7524-5d45-f23b2995cded@comcast.net>
 <91690fd6-54c1-db01-97ac-dd532c517878@comcast.net>
 <85578CA6-5201-4F37-A333-F54305FB6256@hxcore.ol>
 <7358B058DDC1425BA7215FA1213910F6@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <fa1d4440-cafe-323e-d445-ccc80197e845@porterscustom.com>

If the fuse is hot you might find a switch or accessory that is also 
warm..as others have noted it may simply be at the fuse block.. I'm also 
curious about your measured 14.5V which is higher than expected. Is the 
battery connected to a storage charger?? DP

On 10/14/2021 11:02 AM, David Nock wrote:
> Any where there is high resistance it will create heat. So if there is 
> a bad connection at one of the fuse terminals the connector will get 
> warm. And since it is not a dead short it may not blow the fuse.
>
> Pull the fuses out and check the they are clean connections, the clips 
> are holding fuse tight in place.
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
> *From:* Harold Manifold via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:13 AM
> *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
>
> I had a similar problem years ago. After changing fuses, etc without 
> making a difference I found the problem was a poor connection between 
> the fuse and the fuse holder. I replace the fuse box and that fixed 
> the problem.
>
> Harold
>
> *From: *Bob Spidell
> *Sent: *Wednesday, October 13, 2021 9:16 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Hot Fuse
>
> First, pull the fuse--when it's cold--and check its resistance.
>
> On 10/13/2021 8:26 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > Fuses should have little or no resistance (resistance creates the
>
> > heat). Something is wrong; check for corrosion on the fuse and block,
>
> > cold solder, etc. (try a new fuse).
>
> >
>
> > Which fuse is it?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > On 10/13/2021 6:10 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
>
> >> In my BJ8, I have a fuse that is very hot (can?t hold it).? I?ve
>
> >> measured amps and volts across the fuse. 1.3 amps and 14.5 volts. It
>
> >> is very hot. Should this be of concern or am I over reacting.
>
> >>
>
> >> Price Lindsay
>
> >>
>
> >> Cell: 630-841-6300
>
> >> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> > _______________________________________________
>
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> >
>
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> >
>
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> >
>
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Oct 14 15:36:02 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 17:36:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
Message-ID: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>

Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?

 

Thanks for any insights.

 

Mirek

'59 BT7

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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Thu Oct 14 17:06:29 2021
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 16:06:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw_BchyBBF5z0VQo+2OP1OHP4+-79O1OM+daLusudhdm6w@mail.gmail.com>

I don't recall any of the studs needing to be sealed to prevent coolant
escaping. If you have coolant seeping out, I think I would look at the head
gasket.

Mark Fawcett
59 BT7

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:37 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
> have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
> coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
> sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any insights.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
> ?59 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net
>
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 14 17:36:42 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 16:36:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <CAMoKZw_BchyBBF5z0VQo+2OP1OHP4+-79O1OM+daLusudhdm6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAMoKZw_BchyBBF5z0VQo+2OP1OHP4+-79O1OM+daLusudhdm6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOM5mExSs5mdt=hZgbURLzCJmGjQHXBZyT+pnGVvcaRqdg@mail.gmail.com>

Just as a matter of habit, I usually put a small coat of Gask-a-cinch on
the head stud threads before screwing into the block.
Mike MacLean
1969 MGB GT
1960 Austin Healey Sprite
56 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021, 4:08 PM Mark Fawcett via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I don't recall any of the studs needing to be sealed to prevent coolant
> escaping. If you have coolant seeping out, I think I would look at the head
> gasket.
>
> Mark Fawcett
> 59 BT7
>
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:37 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
>> have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
>> coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
>> sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any insights.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mirek
>>
>> ?59 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 14 19:20:30 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 18:20:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>

There are no head studs that go into coolant passages.

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:36 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
> have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
> coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
> sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any insights.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
> ?59 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Oct 14 20:14:38 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 19:14:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>,
 <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <987E5659-2543-4953-8181-46B7010D2A78@hxcore.ol>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Oct 14 20:31:43 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 19:31:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Timestamps, or???
Message-ID: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>

I've been getting a lot of messages from The List that seem to have 
proper timestamps, but don't display in sequence in my mail reader 
(Thunderbird). I have to click my 'Unread' filter button, read the 
messages then scroll through all my kept messages to get to the most 
recent. Anybody else seeing this? It's minor, but, dammit, it ANNOYS ME!

BS

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 15 05:50:50 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 07:50:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Timestamps, or???
In-Reply-To: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
References: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <241ebde0-80a2-69f2-2f82-996b68209529@earthlink.net>

Bob,

I'm using Thunderbird 78.10.0 (on a older Linux distribution) and don't 
have that problem.? It's time to update the operating system and will be 
looking out for this issue.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 10/14/21 10:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I've been getting a lot of messages from The List that seem to have 
> proper timestamps, but don't display in sequence in my mail reader 
> (Thunderbird). I have to click my 'Unread' filter button, read the 
> messages then scroll through all my kept messages to get to the most 
> recent. Anybody else seeing this? It's minor, but, dammit, it ANNOYS ME!
>
> BS
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Fri Oct 15 06:09:45 2021
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 08:09:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Timestamps, or???
In-Reply-To: <241ebde0-80a2-69f2-2f82-996b68209529@earthlink.net>
References: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
 <241ebde0-80a2-69f2-2f82-996b68209529@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <c2e8bbae-077e-89d0-5198-b8e437712a57@htcnet.org>

Being annoyed at the constant little bugs that emanates from the 
labyrinth that is the internet will only increase your blood pressure.

JAV




On 10/15/2021 7:50 AM, Bob Haskell via Healeys wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I'm using Thunderbird 78.10.0 (on a older Linux distribution) and 
> don't have that problem.? It's time to update the operating system and 
> will be looking out for this issue.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 10/14/21 10:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I've been getting a lot of messages from The List that seem to have 
>> proper timestamps, but don't display in sequence in my mail reader 
>> (Thunderbird). I have to click my 'Unread' filter button, read the 
>> messages then scroll through all my kept messages to get to the most 
>> recent. Anybody else seeing this? It's minor, but, dammit, it ANNOYS ME!
>>
>> BS
>> _______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 15 09:41:51 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 08:41:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Timestamps, or???
In-Reply-To: <c2e8bbae-077e-89d0-5198-b8e437712a57@htcnet.org>
References: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
 <241ebde0-80a2-69f2-2f82-996b68209529@earthlink.net>
 <c2e8bbae-077e-89d0-5198-b8e437712a57@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <4f937d28-afe9-132a-8e62-6bde44dd47af@comcast.net>

I like being annoyed. It motivates me.

bs


On 10/15/2021 5:09 AM, John Vrugtman via Healeys wrote:
>
> Being annoyed at the constant little bugs that emanates from the 
> labyrinth that is the internet will only increase your blood pressure.
>
> JAV
>
>
>
>
> On 10/15/2021 7:50 AM, Bob Haskell via Healeys wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> I'm using Thunderbird 78.10.0 (on a older Linux distribution) and 
>> don't have that problem.? It's time to update the operating system 
>> and will be looking out for this issue.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 10/14/21 10:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> I've been getting a lot of messages from The List that seem to have 
>>> proper timestamps, but don't display in sequence in my mail reader 
>>> (Thunderbird). I have to click my 'Unread' filter button, read the 
>>> messages then scroll through all my kept messages to get to the most 
>>> recent. Anybody else seeing this? It's minor, but, dammit, it ANNOYS 
>>> ME!
>>>
>>> BS
>>> _______________________________________________
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From airtightproductions at me.com  Fri Oct 15 09:02:31 2021
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 15:02:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Unable to post
Message-ID: <f8c8688a-c4b0-40f7-974a-359477e4c13b@me.com>

I just received notification that my post has to go to the moderator because I am a non member. Anyone else receive a message like that. I joined the list from this email address August 9, 2014 at 5:12 PM.? I guess I got bumped off. Strange. I still receive list emails, just can't answer them.Steven KingsburyBN1
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Thu Oct 14 09:46:58 2021
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2021 15:46:58 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] no messages for a while
Message-ID: <9e81692a-b657-4fd1-8741-1c54252f437f@me.com>

Nope, you're still on the list. It's just that the list has been quiet for a while and fuses are the main topic right now. It just seems to be slow.Steven KingsburyBN1On Oct 14, 2021, at 3:17 AM, kees via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:Hi Sandro,Apparently I have dropped of the list. I have not had any messages from the list for quite a while.Any changes in policy?Kind regards,Kees Oudesluijs_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 15 15:54:30 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 21:54:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Unable to post
In-Reply-To: <f8c8688a-c4b0-40f7-974a-359477e4c13b@me.com>
References: <f8c8688a-c4b0-40f7-974a-359477e4c13b@me.com>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB4276BEA04D0F8C823F5828AEBFB99@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I got it recently when I used a different eMail address than I normally use. Switched back and no problem 

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

> On Oct 15, 2021, at 15:07, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I just received notification that my post has to go to the moderator because I am a non member. Anyone else receive a message like that. I joined the list from this email address August 9, 2014 at 5:12 PM.  I guess I got bumped off. Strange. I still receive list emails, just can't answer them.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 15 20:48:48 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 22:48:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Timestamps, or???
In-Reply-To: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
References: <c38e60d8-6bf9-036b-12eb-3d77ef57f3ce@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwEaqygD0OATrF4h1MYq8XbSN3Vav4vAv-9EFYxECiNspg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, I've been seeing that for some time.

________________
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021, 10:36 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've been getting a lot of messages from The List that seem to have
> proper timestamps, but don't display in sequence in my mail reader
> (Thunderbird). I have to click my 'Unread' filter button, read the
> messages then scroll through all my kept messages to get to the most
> recent. Anybody else seeing this? It's minor, but, dammit, it ANNOYS ME!
>
> BS
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Oct 15 22:05:19 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2021 21:05:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?fuse?=
Message-ID: <20211016040519.32101.qmail@server278.com>

knowing enough about electricity to be dangerous, i wonder why the fuse did not blow if there was that much resistance?

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Oct 16 04:39:18 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 06:39:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] fuse
In-Reply-To: <20211016040519.32101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20211016040519.32101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4LZUtL_V=b6FGYLnx=YBafR6NU2=7GhjTWY2hnYiMaHQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jim--

The heat is not coming as a result of current draw but rather from
resistance as a result of corrosion. Therefore no blown fuse.

On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 12:05 AM healeymanjim via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> knowing enough about electricity to be dangerous, i wonder why the fuse
> did not blow if there was that much resistance?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Oct 16 08:42:36 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 07:42:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] fuse
In-Reply-To: <20211016040519.32101.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20211016040519.32101.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <b2e378ac-8d73-d732-e2c3-7a06b50a54f3@comcast.net>

Fuses blow when excessive current--above the fuse's rating--is drawn by 
one or more loads on its circuit; i.e. a short (slow-blow fuses allow a 
momentary high draw before blowing, like a Healey's O/D circuit). If a 
fuse has excessive resistance, it limits the current somewhat (like one 
of its loads). Effectively, it becomes a resistor. Fuses don't--or 
shouldn't--offer much resistance, excessive resistance usually comes 
from its connector or housing.


On 10/15/2021 9:05 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> knowing enough about electricity to be dangerous, i wonder why the fuse did not blow if there was that much resistance?
>


From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sat Oct 16 08:59:46 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 10:59:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000e01d7c29e$76db8c00$6492a400$@sympatico.ca>

Thanks for all the feedback, and not that I doubted anyone, I did my own test.  I pulled out my spare block (lugging a spare block around for 30 years is the guarantee that I will never need one) and cleaned out the stud holes, except for the one hole with a broken stud! I filled each of them with WD-40 and let it sit for 24 hrs.  The level of the WD-40 did not got down in any of them.  Also, Mike Salter pointed out to me that the head stud threads have a groove machined through them, the only purpose of which would be to relieve hydraulic lock from any lubricant that was applied to the threads before threading them in.  There would be no need for the groove if the holes were not blind.

 

Given that, I cannot see the need to apply anything to the threads when installing the studs, except perhaps for a little lubricant to assist with getting them tight.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> 
Sent: October 14, 2021 9:21 PM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs

 

There are no head studs that go into coolant passages.

 

On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:36 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?

 

Thanks for any insights.

 

Mirek

?59 BT7

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sat Oct 16 09:39:38 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 11:39:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey mail
Message-ID: <048101d7c2a4$07f91b30$17eb5190$@gmail.com>

I am receiving mail, however, am not receiving any mail. @ I am on the list
of members.  Help

 

Bob Begani

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sat Oct 16 09:47:09 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 16:47:09 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <000e01d7c29e$76db8c00$6492a400$@sympatico.ca>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
 <000e01d7c29e$76db8c00$6492a400$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVEasvwhk7c3eSTRDe0=HYZQvHVxPtbZX=-58hD4G7RgA@mail.gmail.com>

Mirek

The only places that I am aware of are that the stud holes where the
dynamo bracket fixes to the block are often not blind. I have seen
situations where the studs have been replaced by bolts leading to a leak.
The studs should be fitted with a good sealant to avoid any leaks.

There were also threads going right through on early heads where the two
rocker cover studs fit.

Best regards

On Sat, 16 Oct 2021 at 16:00, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Thanks for all the feedback, and not that I doubted anyone, I did my own
> test.  I pulled out my spare block (lugging a spare block around for 30
> years is the guarantee that I will never need one) and cleaned out the stud
> holes, except for the one hole with a broken stud! I filled each of them
> with WD-40 and let it sit for 24 hrs.  The level of the WD-40 did not got
> down in any of them.  Also, Mike Salter pointed out to me that the head
> stud threads have a groove machined through them, the only purpose of which
> would be to relieve hydraulic lock from any lubricant that was applied to
> the threads before threading them in.  There would be no need for the
> groove if the holes were not blind.
>
>
>
> Given that, I cannot see the need to apply anything to the threads when
> installing the studs, except perhaps for a little lubricant to assist with
> getting them tight.
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* October 14, 2021 9:21 PM
> *To:* m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
>
>
>
> There are no head studs that go into coolant passages.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:36 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
> have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
> coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
> sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any insights.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
> ?59 BT7
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Sat Oct 16 09:57:50 2021
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 15:57:50 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Unable to post
Message-ID: <26954557-d276-4abd-b37e-7a1785ae52c8@me.com>

Yes it did, eventually. It had to be held by the moderator before it was released. I was just surprised that I was considered a non-member. My "icloud" email account has just gone through some software updates and deleted everyone of my email contacts. Maybe that had something to do with the hold? I never lost the ability to receive emails from the list, just responses. Oh well.StevenOn Oct 15, 2021, at 6:42 PM, Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:Well, this email made it through. I wonder why one fails and another succeeds.?-RolandOn Fri, Oct 15, 2021, 1:07 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:I just received notification that my post has to go to the moderator because I am a non member. Anyone else receive a message like that. I joined the list from this email address August 9, 2014 at 5:12 PM.? I guess I got bumped off. Strange. I still receive list emails, just can't answer them.Steven KingsburyBN1_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive  Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Oct 16 10:17:54 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 12:17:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLVEasvwhk7c3eSTRDe0=HYZQvHVxPtbZX=-58hD4G7RgA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007001d7c143$7c82b770$75882650$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAKkXjqPkdVX6kx5Ckc=YJnu9+JRP9MAhU_09tx1A8ciUT06AWA@mail.gmail.com>
 <000e01d7c29e$76db8c00$6492a400$@sympatico.ca>
 <CAL28cLVEasvwhk7c3eSTRDe0=HYZQvHVxPtbZX=-58hD4G7RgA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJYjQH4sVQxOOx_4foxCpxa0SemF3sfq5oexjaC6SB2ag@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John, just to avoid confusion here I should perhaps point out that we
are dealing with a 6 cylinder engine here and the generator mounting
bracket, which is also the front side cover, is secured by screws that
don't pass into the water jacket.
As far as I'm aware the issue with the generator mount bracket applies only
to the 100 engine and, as you say, can cause such problems. I should also
point out that all 8 rocker shaft mounting studs (not the valve cover nut
studs) on the 100 head pass through into the water jacket and care must be
taken to ensure that they are carefully sealed.

M


On Sat, Oct 16, 2021 at 11:57 AM john harper via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Mirek
>
> The only places that I am aware of are that the stud holes where the
> dynamo bracket fixes to the block are often not blind. I have seen
> situations where the studs have been replaced by bolts leading to a leak.
> The studs should be fitted with a good sealant to avoid any leaks.
>
> There were also threads going right through on early heads where the two
> rocker cover studs fit.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Sat, 16 Oct 2021 at 16:00, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the feedback, and not that I doubted anyone, I did my own
>> test.  I pulled out my spare block (lugging a spare block around for 30
>> years is the guarantee that I will never need one) and cleaned out the stud
>> holes, except for the one hole with a broken stud! I filled each of them
>> with WD-40 and let it sit for 24 hrs.  The level of the WD-40 did not got
>> down in any of them.  Also, Mike Salter pointed out to me that the head
>> stud threads have a groove machined through them, the only purpose of which
>> would be to relieve hydraulic lock from any lubricant that was applied to
>> the threads before threading them in.  There would be no need for the
>> groove if the holes were not blind.
>>
>>
>>
>> Given that, I cannot see the need to apply anything to the threads when
>> installing the studs, except perhaps for a little lubricant to assist with
>> getting them tight.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers, Mirek
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* October 14, 2021 9:21 PM
>> *To:* m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Sealing Head Studs
>>
>>
>>
>> There are no head studs that go into coolant passages.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 2:36 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone out there had issues with coolant coming up the head studs?  I
>> have heard that some stud holes in the block are blind, but some intercept
>> coolant channels and that the head studs that go in these holes need to be
>> sealed.  Does anyone know which holes are blind and which are not?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any insights.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mirek
>>
>> ?59 BT7
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Oct 16 18:52:23 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 17:52:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
Message-ID: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>

I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing 
a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 
021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. 
I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type 
that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I 
started tensioning it however, it was clear it /might /work, but sat too 
low in the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the 
pulley grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of 
the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?

I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that 
could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.

bs
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From ahmg at aol.com  Sat Oct 16 20:09:52 2021
From: ahmg at aol.com (KENNETH FLEMNG)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2021 22:09:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Items for Sale
References: <7CB4884E-BE6E-4723-87CC-32A9958E4B94.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7CB4884E-BE6E-4723-87CC-32A9958E4B94@aol.com>

Below are items I have remaining for sell from my garage cleanup. I will be traveling to Southeastern in Safety Harbor Florida next week and will be trailering my car so able to deliver(especially larger items) to anyone at the event if items are of interest. Contact me with questions.
Ken
 
 
 
Healey hundred 5 original front fenders remaining ( both Left and Right),  repaired, dry stored and in great shape. Two have damage in front with 85% useable no rust
 
Healey Hundred bonnet skin stripped prepared for Louvering/Stamping SOLD
 
Healey Hundred BN2 New Blue Side curtains used twice(Moss)SOLD
 
Healey rare Hundred Perspex Side Curtains
 
Healey Hundred Perspex screens Perspex only- used( Lft and Right)
 
Healey Hundred Original Side Curtain bag black- needs cleaning but useable(NA currently)
 
Healey Hundred Blue Convertible Top-Great used condition-
 
Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain need restoration
 
Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain Frames SOLD
 
Healey Hundred Original BN2 Sidecurtain- all pieces present -need recovering/restoring SOLD
 
Healey Hundred  Original Service Manual and repro-new sold as pair(rough- garage use). Sold
 
Healey 100M Carb and linkage- Non Etched but came off running car- since been rebuit(1) SOLD
 
Healey Hundred Original clear back Fuel Pump- rebuildable?
 
Healey Hundred Water Pump- rebuildable
 
 
Healey 3000 Radiator- Great for re-core
 
Healey 100 Hardtop rear backlight(glass)- Nical  reproduction hardtop- New
 
Healey Hundred Bonnet Hinge & Cross Brace Assy (New)
 
Healey Hundred Carb Heat Shield-Ah Spares- New
 
Healey 3000 rear fender repair panel (2)- (New) SOLD
 
Healey Hundred (2)Original Fan blades
 
Healey 3000 bumperettes(4)
 
Jaguar- Series 3 etype repair manual- torn corner
 
Healey BJ7-BJ8shroud to windshield seal (new)
 
Triumph Tr6 transmission ? rebuilt years ago and removed from running car shortly after.
 
Triumph TR6 Seatbelt retractor(2) SOLD
 
Triumph Tr6 Bumper
 
 
Healey Hundred LJ23date stamp 54 correct BN1 Jack.  SOLD
 
Set Of  3Snail period spanners and 2 Superslim 
 
Jaguar 3.8 Series 1 e-type motor with all ancilliaries, rebuilt 10 yrs ago, needs detailing but maintained and turns. Comes with triple carb set up and manifold, starter, tranny, distributor, water pump, exhaust downs. Engine is high compression 9:1 based on stamping and was in a running xk150. RA-4646-9 engine number SOLD
 
Last remaining NOS Coolaire air conditioning  left in existence for 1964-1967 BJ8. Rarest option available for the BJ8and only about 50 made. Was also the most expensive option. All components present.  SOLD
 
Moto Lita racing leather 14-15 inch steering wheel-Moss
 
Healey Flex Fan(Moss New)
 
Original very early rare 9 hole Victor Derington wheel, factory option
for Healey Unrestored near mint.
 
Healey 100/4 Overdrive and Transmission both rebuilt BN2 four speed
 
 Healey 100/4 Rear original Bumper re-chromed
 
New items found :


New BN1-BN2 Blue convertible tops (2) in the box from UK SOLD
 
New tire leather strap(2)
 
Triumph TR6 Rare optional hardtop boot cover(2)- Tan, New Tan
 

Sent from my iPhone
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Oct 17 07:43:30 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 13:43:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>

Bob,The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt

  I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it might work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
 
 I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
 
 bs
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 08:01:03 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 07:01:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>

I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'


On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> Bob,
> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells 
> them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>
> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and 
> installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 
> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of 
> rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the 
> original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it 
> would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it 
> /might /work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially 
> riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides 
> (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else 
> tried one of these?
>
> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something 
> that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>
> bs
>

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 17 08:14:09 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 10:14:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5ba0b803-0c6e-a018-fd65-2615164ba81b@earthlink.net>

with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one ...

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 10/17/21 10:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>> Bob,
>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells 
>> them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and 
>> installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 
>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of 
>> rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the 
>> original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it 
>> would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it 
>> /might /work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially 
>> riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides 
>> (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else 
>> tried one of these?
>>
>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something 
>> that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>> bs
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Oct 17 08:14:25 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 08:14:25 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>

Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that is 
an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember the 
part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web 
pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting. DP

On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>> Bob,
>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells 
>> them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and 
>> installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 
>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of 
>> rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the 
>> original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it 
>> would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it 
>> /might /work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially 
>> riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides 
>> (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else 
>> tried one of these?
>>
>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something 
>> that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>> bs
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 09:04:25 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 11:04:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

After you get the proper fan belt consider installing one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY

The initial installation of the unit is a bit intense but once you have it
in place tensioning the belt is a piece of cake.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
> Bob,
> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>
> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing a
> new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking
> it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before
> installing that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had, which
> had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
> however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in the pulleys,
> and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of
> on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone
> else tried one of these?
>
> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>
> bs
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 17 09:07:53 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 15:07:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25079C0CC30F76851AF8E88DD1BB9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Most of the vendors we deal with these days have been in business for years and are ought to know by now the correct dimensions for items they sell and many if not all of them have a department where they have individuals that research new products , so selling or advertising a new product that does not fit is because they put profit ahead of quality.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: David P via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 17, 2021 9:17 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt


Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that is an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember the part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.  DP
On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'

On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
Bob,
The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net><mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it might work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?

I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.

bs





_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314474380%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=mNz6oSXU5WPIT7bX1EuvgtOH7kjH6z9G%2BAdyGTv7x5k%3D&reserved=0>

Suggested annual donation  $12.75



Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314484375%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=n6NY2hJtncYxu1eYyUyVF016O8rH0bLXUrRTwU%2FQAr8%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314484375%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=CFJ7jfGNqTPYJITuIA7fmJQCJ1A7SKMik6nwprXJAcw%3D&reserved=0>



Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314494370%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=AnZLaYIeSMQBzUSyVncKheGczD8sUSoZiFXM2uJOG2A%3D&reserved=0>



Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Ffrogeye%40porterscustom.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314494370%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=AZGLt6h2qaTRVchy6v3ah7mlD8X2z37m988lcAitifk%3D&reserved=0>



--

Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.porterbikes.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0ac9a73609ec416ee7dc08d99178ce84%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637700770314504365%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=7iqLXIfJxmubEMS87ZNzxIy0%2FLSi6jjVjdrC5sYD8Ms%3D&reserved=0>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 09:13:18 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 11:13:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>

As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
 I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the
pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html

M


On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that is
> an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember the part
> number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1
> kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.  DP
> On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
> Bob,
> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>
> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing a
> new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking
> it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before
> installing that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had, which
> had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
> however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in the pulleys,
> and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of
> on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone
> else tried one of these?
>
> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>
> bs
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 09:55:22 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 08:55:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <818c642b-5c1d-b7b5-ce2d-9bd4567b1afe@comcast.net>

Hmmmmm ... looks like a good idea, got any photos of it installed (not a 
lot of wiggle room between pulleys)?

On 10/17/2021 8:04 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Bob--
>
> After you get the proper fan belt consider installing one of these:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY>
>
> The initial installation of the unit is a bit intense but once you 
> have it in place tensioning the belt is a piece of cake.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>
>
>     On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>     <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>     Bob,
>>     The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer
>>     tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>     Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>     -----Original Message-----
>>     From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>     To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>     Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>>     I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and
>>     installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from
>>     Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the
>>     original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was
>>     narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted,
>>     but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
>>     however, it was clear it /might /work, but sat too low in the
>>     pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley
>>     grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of
>>     the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>
>>     I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>     something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>>     bs
>>
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 10:58:10 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 09:58:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9e6d5b13-6e0f-3fa6-763b-e3424d868296@comcast.net>

It was suggested to me that the cogged belt is /designed /to grab the 
bottom of the pulley, instead of the sides. This makes some sense, any 
industrial engineers know the 'theory' on this.

One thing is for sure, the cogged belt "don't /look/ 'right,'" at least 
not compared to original.


On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
> ?I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the 
> pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
> https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html 
> <https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html>
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive)
>     that is an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't
>     remember the part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it
>     googling their web pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.? DP
>
>     On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>     I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>>     On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>>     <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>>     Bob,
>>>     The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer
>>>     tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>>     Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>     From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>>     Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>
>>>     I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and
>>>     installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from
>>>     Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the
>>>     original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was
>>>     narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted,
>>>     but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
>>>     however, it was clear it /might /work, but sat too low in the
>>>     pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley
>>>     grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of
>>>     the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>
>>>     I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>>     something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>
>>>     bs
>>>
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  http://autox.team.net/archive  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com>
>>
>     -- 
>     Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/  <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 11:03:55 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 10:03:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <430b17df-620d-0aed-5a8a-25f7966891ae@comcast.net>

This doc--from the government, so it HAS to be true ;)--claims cogged, 
or 'synchronous,' are most efficient:

https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/56012.pdf

Now I have to deal with smooth/standard, cogged, and 'notched' (what's 
the diff?).

bs

On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
> ?I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the 
> pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
> https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html 
> <https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html>
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive)
>     that is an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't
>     remember the part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it
>     googling their web pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.? DP
>
>     On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>     I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>>     On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>>     <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>>     Bob,
>>>     The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer
>>>     tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>>     Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>     From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>>     Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>
>>>     I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and
>>>     installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from
>>>     Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the
>>>     original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was
>>>     narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted,
>>>     but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
>>>     however, it was clear it /might /work, but sat too low in the
>>>     pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley
>>>     grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of
>>>     the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>
>>>     I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>>     something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>
>>>     bs
>>>
>>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 11:05:25 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 13:05:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <9e6d5b13-6e0f-3fa6-763b-e3424d868296@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <9e6d5b13-6e0f-3fa6-763b-e3424d868296@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+xreNooG+b+97x5_B9rDpKd_dzEJBMUQsUmmV0QczP2A@mail.gmail.com>

That's total BS Bob.
The "cogs" are really just there to eliminate stress in the belt as it
curves around pulleys.
A "V" belt must ride on its side faces without the inside surface bottoming
out in any pulley.

M

On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 12:58 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> It was suggested to me that the cogged belt is *designed *to grab the
> bottom of the pulley, instead of the sides. This makes some sense, any
> industrial engineers know the 'theory' on this.
>
> One thing is for sure, the cogged belt "don't *look* 'right,'" at least
> not compared to original.
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
>  I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the
> pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
> https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that is
>> an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember the part
>> number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1
>> kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.  DP
>> On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>
>> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
>> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing
>> a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part#
>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I
>> noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that
>> I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started
>> tensioning it however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in
>> the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves
>> instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was
>> incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>
>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
>> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>
>> --
>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 11:09:42 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 13:09:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <430b17df-620d-0aed-5a8a-25f7966891ae@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <430b17df-620d-0aed-5a8a-25f7966891ae@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL6tN3F4Wb0uZpZyQf8czjCdUYSumYae7P1+cXXZckGjQ@mail.gmail.com>

"Cogged or synchronous" belts are a totally different kettle of fish.
They are commonly called "timing belts".
They run on a flat pulley with teeth that engage with the teeth on the belt.
Think cam belts.

M

On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 1:04 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> This doc--from the government, so it HAS to be true ;)--claims cogged, or
> 'synchronous,' are most efficient:
>
> https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/56012.pdf
>
> Now I have to deal with smooth/standard, cogged, and 'notched' (what's the
> diff?).
>
> bs
>
> On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
>  I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the
> pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
> https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that is
>> an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember the part
>> number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1
>> kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.  DP
>> On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>
>> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
>> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing
>> a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part#
>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I
>> noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that
>> I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started
>> tensioning it however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in
>> the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves
>> instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was
>> incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>
>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
>> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 11:12:37 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 10:12:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+xreNooG+b+97x5_B9rDpKd_dzEJBMUQsUmmV0QczP2A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <9e6d5b13-6e0f-3fa6-763b-e3424d868296@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7L+xreNooG+b+97x5_B9rDpKd_dzEJBMUQsUmmV0QczP2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04953b38-e917-9dac-3eaa-8e1b20a6d541@comcast.net>

That's what I figured (actually, I tried to convince myself of that 
because I'd already gotten the belt on an tensioned). But, checking into 
it, it seems there are a lot of alternative that may, or may not, be 
better than original. What to do (I don't like the OEM-type belts; I 
suspect there's a reason autos went to thinner belts over the years).



On 10/17/2021 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> That's total BS Bob.
> The "cogs" are really just there to eliminate stress in the belt as it 
> curves around pulleys.
> A "V" belt must ride on its side faces without the inside surface 
> bottoming out in any pulley.
>
> M
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 12:58 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     It was suggested to me that the cogged belt is /designed /to grab
>     the bottom of the pulley, instead of the sides. This makes some
>     sense, any industrial engineers know the 'theory' on this.
>
>     One thing is for sure, the cogged belt "don't /look/ 'right,'" at
>     least not compared to original.
>
>
>     On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>     As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
>>     ?I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in
>>     the pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
>>     https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html
>>     <https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html>
>>
>>     M
>>
>>
>>     On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys,
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non
>>         automotive) that is an excellent copy of the original.
>>         Unfortunately I don't remember the part number.. (gets worse
>>         with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1 kinda
>>         rings a bell.. happy hunting.? DP
>>
>>         On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>         I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>>
>>>
>>>         On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>>>         <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>>>         Bob,
>>>>         The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the
>>>>         customer tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>>>         Gary Hodson
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         -----Original Message-----
>>>>         From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>>         <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>>         To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>>>         Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>>
>>>>         I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley
>>>>         and installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt
>>>>         from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better
>>>>         than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before
>>>>         installing that it was narrower than the original type that
>>>>         I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would
>>>>         work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it
>>>>         /might /work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was
>>>>         essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves
>>>>         instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the
>>>>         belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>>
>>>>         I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>>>         something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>>
>>>>         bs
>>>>
>>>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 11:23:20 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 10:23:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <ac1f8a92-0388-7273-7c19-cfa243c25777@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LLCRORTQvzhGi23aVhgY3vUSJJt38eDYf36=QRdSAYPAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4170639a-b581-2694-03bc-1fca828bd2ba@comcast.net>

Can't find Ferodo V161; closest I found is VS1016 (cogged).

On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
> ?I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the 
> pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
> https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html 
> <https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html>
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive)
>     that is an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't
>     remember the part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it
>     googling their web pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting.? DP
>
>     On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>     I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>>     On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>>     <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>>     Bob,
>>>     The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer
>>>     tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>>     Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>     From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>     To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>>     Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>
>>>     I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and
>>>     installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from
>>>     Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than the
>>>     original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing that it was
>>>     narrower than the original type that I'd had, which had rotted,
>>>     but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
>>>     however, it was clear it /might /work, but sat too low in the
>>>     pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley
>>>     grooves instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of
>>>     the belt was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>
>>>     I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>>     something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>
>>>     bs
>>>
>>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 11:35:33 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 13:35:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <818c642b-5c1d-b7b5-ce2d-9bd4567b1afe@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <818c642b-5c1d-b7b5-ce2d-9bd4567b1afe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B70da0suROeKcGhkQDr6vds70rnnPpk-T0v0A9c9_07Xg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob/All--

Attached find a photo of what little of the "Belt Buddy" which is visible
from above the big alternator I have mounted.  Installing the adjuster will
require your either loosening or temporarily dismounting your
generator/alternator but once you have things in place belt tensioning is a
piece of cake.  You'll no longer have to lever out the generator with a big
screw driver or the like, putting the mounting bolts in shear--merely put a
socket or ratcheting wrench on the bolt head which projects from the blue
piece and crank away.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:55 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hmmmmm ... looks like a good idea, got any photos of it installed (not a
> lot of wiggle room between pulleys)?
>
> On 10/17/2021 8:04 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> Bob--
>
> After you get the proper fan belt consider installing one of these:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY
>
> The initial installation of the unit is a bit intense but once you have it
> in place tensioning the belt is a piece of cake.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
>> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>
>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing
>> a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part#
>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I
>> noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that
>> I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started
>> tensioning it however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in
>> the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves
>> instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was
>> incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>
>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
>> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>
>> bs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Oct 17 11:48:01 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 17:48:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
Message-ID: <048f168674c07fd52c484326c756d72d4a885533@webmail>

What's wrong with the original belt? Seems,if properly adjusted, works
just fine. It's available from AH Spares for $16.50 and is a Midway
B4317X (shown here). The only downside is if you wish to concours your
car, the writing on the belt may lose you a point. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday October 17 2021 10:24:30AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt

 Can't find Ferodo V161; closest I found is VS1016 (cogged).

On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
  As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.  I have
been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in the pulley
but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove. 
[1]https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html [2]

 M 

 On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys,  wrote:

	Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non automotive) that
is an excellent copy of the original. Unfortunately I don't remember
the part number.. (gets worse with age). I found it googling their web
pages.. B1 kinda rings a bell.. happy hunting. DP
 On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
 I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'

On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
  Bob, The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer
tells them. You should forward your message to Moss. Gary Hodson

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Bob Spidell 
 To: Healeys 
 Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt

  I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and
installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part#
021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of
rubber. I noticed before installing that it was narrower than the
original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it
would work. Once I started tensioning it however, it was clear it
_might_ work, but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially
riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides
(and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone else
tried one of these?

 I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something
that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.

 bs



Links:
------
[1] https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html
[2] https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 14:55:54 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 16:55:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B70da0suROeKcGhkQDr6vds70rnnPpk-T0v0A9c9_07Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <818c642b-5c1d-b7b5-ce2d-9bd4567b1afe@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B70da0suROeKcGhkQDr6vds70rnnPpk-T0v0A9c9_07Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4Gduw9uXzhSCv6W742c0w9TNx6wGEX-2edikC6cXnMnQ@mail.gmail.com>

I should have mentioned two other things in my earlier post re the Balmar
Belt Buddy:

First, there are actually two parts that can be purchased either together
or separately:  An adjustment arm, which increases the range of that
offered by most "stock" arms including that in our Healeys, and; the
tensioner unit which permits one to increase/decrease belt tension by
tightening a bolt versus having to loosen and lever out the
alternator/generator.

Secondly, your google search of "Belt Buddy" will probably also show
something to use on* your pants*----actually called a BeltBro--which has
nothing to do with cars.


On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 1:35 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Bob/All--
>
> Attached find a photo of what little of the "Belt Buddy" which is visible
> from above the big alternator I have mounted.  Installing the adjuster will
> require your either loosening or temporarily dismounting your
> generator/alternator but once you have things in place belt tensioning is a
> piece of cake.  You'll no longer have to lever out the generator with a big
> screw driver or the like, putting the mounting bolts in shear--merely put a
> socket or ratcheting wrench on the bolt head which projects from the blue
> piece and crank away.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:55 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hmmmmm ... looks like a good idea, got any photos of it installed (not a
>> lot of wiggle room between pulleys)?
>>
>> On 10/17/2021 8:04 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>
>> Bob--
>>
>> After you get the proper fan belt consider installing one of these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY
>>
>> The initial installation of the unit is a bit intense but once you have
>> it in place tensioning the belt is a piece of cake.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>> The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the customer tells
>>> them.  You should forward your message to Moss.
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>
>>> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing
>>> a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part#
>>> 021-966--thinking it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I
>>> noticed before installing that it was narrower than the original type that
>>> I'd had, which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started
>>> tensioning it however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in
>>> the pulleys, and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves
>>> instead of on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was
>>> incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>
>>> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
>>> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>
>>> bs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
>


-- 
Best--Michael
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 16:09:22 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 15:09:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B70da0suROeKcGhkQDr6vds70rnnPpk-T0v0A9c9_07Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
 <603537614.781041.1634478210786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47f670d2-10ea-16e8-2c6e-2dc7c5d6a339@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B4MZfJfAzsQdj5SeqLsM4AXUJZHyu478DLQ9ZzGvXmoYQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <818c642b-5c1d-b7b5-ce2d-9bd4567b1afe@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B70da0suROeKcGhkQDr6vds70rnnPpk-T0v0A9c9_07Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <57218166-7d85-e242-bed1-e64d0f4177da@comcast.net>

Thanks, Michael. I'll add it to my list of projects.

Bob

On 10/17/2021 10:35 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Bob/All--
>
> Attached find a photo of what little of the "Belt Buddy" which is 
> visible from above the big alternator I have mounted.? Installing the 
> adjuster will require your either?loosening or temporarily dismounting 
> your generator/alternator but once you have things in place belt 
> tensioning is a piece of cake.? You'll no longer have to lever out the 
> generator with a big screw driver or the like, putting the 
> mounting?bolts in shear--merely put a socket or ratcheting wrench on 
> the bolt head?which projects from the blue piece and crank away.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:55 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Hmmmmm ... looks like a good idea, got any photos of it installed
>     (not a lot of wiggle room between pulleys)?
>
>     On 10/17/2021 8:04 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>     Bob--
>>
>>     After you get the proper fan belt consider installing one of these:
>>
>>     https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY
>>     <https://www.amazon.com/Balmar-Belt-Buddy-Universal-Adjustment/dp/B00TUNIALY>
>>
>>     The initial installation of the unit is a bit intense but once
>>     you have it in place tensioning the belt is a piece of cake.
>>
>>     Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>     On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell
>>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy photographs.'
>>
>>
>>         On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com
>>         <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>>         Bob,
>>>         The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the
>>>         customer tells them.? You should forward your message to Moss.
>>>         Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>         -----Original Message-----
>>>         From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>         <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>         To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>>>         Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>>>
>>>         I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley
>>>         and installing a new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt
>>>         from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it might work better than
>>>         the original slab of rubber. I noticed before installing
>>>         that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had,
>>>         which had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I
>>>         started tensioning it however, it was clear it /might /work,
>>>         but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially riding
>>>         on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of on the sides
>>>         (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect).
>>>         Anyone else tried one of these?
>>>
>>>         I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell
>>>         something that could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>>>
>>>         bs
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Best--Michael

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 16:10:57 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 15:10:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <048f168674c07fd52c484326c756d72d4a885533@webmail>
References: <048f168674c07fd52c484326c756d72d4a885533@webmail>
Message-ID: <e6665e87-cc5a-91ed-b77b-d79163593474@comcast.net>

I think the 'knock' on big, heavy belts are weight and vibration; note 
later cars have thinner belts (but, 3/8" was apparently a bridge too far).

On 10/17/2021 10:48 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> What's wrong with the original belt? Seems,if properly adjusted, works 
> just fine.? It's available from AH Spares for $16.50 and is a Midway 
> B4317X (shown here). The only downside is if you wish to concours your 
> car, the writing on the belt may lose you a point. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday October 17 2021 10:24:30AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>
> Can't find Ferodo V161; closest I found is VS1016 (cogged).
>
> On 10/17/2021 8:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
>     As I recall the original belt for a 100 is a Ferodo V161.
>     ?I have been using a B-45 Gates belts which sit a little lower in
>     the pulley but don't contact the bottom of the pulley groove.
>     https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html
>     <https://www.biedlers-belts.com/gates-b45-belt.html>
>
>     M
>
>
>     On Sun., Oct. 17, 2021, 10:16 a.m. David P via Healeys,
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>         Gates belts has a belt for industrial equipment (non
>         automotive) that is an excellent copy of the original.
>         Unfortunately I don't remember the part number.. (gets worse
>         with age). I found it googling their web pages.. B1 kinda
>         rings a bell.. happy hunting.? DP
>
>         On 10/17/2021 8:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
>             I'm going to return it, with '8x10 colored glossy
>             photographs.'
>
>
>             On 10/17/2021 6:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
>
>                 Bob,
>                 The way the vendors find out about an issue is if the
>                 customer tells them.? You should forward your message
>                 to Moss.
>                 Gary Hodson
>
>
>                 -----Original Message-----
>                 From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>                 To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>                 Sent: Sat, Oct 16, 2021 7:52 pm
>                 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
>
>                 I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump
>                 pulley and installing a new fan belt. I ordered a
>                 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking it
>                 might work better than the original slab of rubber. I
>                 noticed before installing that it was narrower than
>                 the original type that I'd had, which had rotted, but
>                 it looked like it would work. Once I started
>                 tensioning it however, it was clear it /might/ work,
>                 but sat too low in the pulleys, and was essentially
>                 riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of
>                 on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt
>                 was incorrect). Anyone else tried one of these?
>
>                 I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would
>                 sell something that could possibly work, but isn't
>                 truly correct.
>
>                 bs
>
>
>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 18:23:03 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 17:23:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMysp_OdVdVOQxNO=bVo4+h5WU1MyQnuUYmd63Ez2KN6w@mail.gmail.com>

I don't usually believe in the "miracle in a can" foolishness, .....BUT....
I am now a believer in the electric cleaner in a spray can.  There are a
couple of different brands.

Over the last year and a half I brought back to life the electrical systems
of a '72 Mercedes and a '76 Alfa.  The cars had sat for 20 years and 16
years respectively. Both cars use the European style ceramic fuses with
aluminum exterior strips. I fiddled with ground connections, fuses
connections, etc, etc. with mixed results. There was light corrosion
everywhere. It was very frustrating and difficult trying to clean so many
connections by mechanical means.

Then, on the recommendation of an Alfa guy I bought a can of the 'lectric
cleaner and gave it a try.  I was skeptical in the beginning.  However,
switches started switching,  Lights lit up. Motors started moting.  Fuses
started fusing.

On some connectors I just backed off the screw enough to loosen and wiggle
the terminals and then sprayed away.  On many connectors I didn't even do
that.
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 20:24:47 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 10:24:47 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLxcnK26oAHWx5iDzFOi_udDXsheDUoSqZ7dUMk+=k0Uw@mail.gmail.com>

Actually for these I get the machinery/tractor belts made by Mitsuboshi.
Mitsuboshi RECMF-8440 is a perfect fit toothed belt on the 100.  It sits
very loose on the pulley and grips very nicely.

Best,

Alan

On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 8:53 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I finally got around to fixing my loose water pump pulley and installing a
> new fan belt. I ordered a 'cogged' belt from Moss--part# 021-966--thinking
> it might work better than the original slab of rubber. I noticed before
> installing that it was narrower than the original type that I'd had, which
> had rotted, but it looked like it would work. Once I started tensioning it
> however, it was clear it *might *work, but sat too low in the pulleys,
> and was essentially riding on the bottom of the pulley grooves instead of
> on the sides (and the angle of the sides of the belt was incorrect). Anyone
> else tried one of these?
>
> I'm shocked, SHOCKED I TELL YA', that a vendor would sell something that
> could possibly work, but isn't truly correct.
>
> bs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Oct 17 21:06:07 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2021 20:06:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMysp_OdVdVOQxNO=bVo4+h5WU1MyQnuUYmd63Ez2KN6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMysp_OdVdVOQxNO=bVo4+h5WU1MyQnuUYmd63Ez2KN6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>

CRC makes a couple: 'Electronics Parts Cleaner,' and 'Electric Parts 
Cleaner.' The latter is suitable for applications like this, but use the 
former for electronic circuits and cleaning of other 'delicate' stuff. 
The electrical parts cleaner will remove most paints.


On 10/17/2021 5:23 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> I don't usually believe in the "miracle in a can" foolishness, 
> .....BUT.... I am now a believer in the electric cleaner in a spray 
> can.? There are a couple of different brands.
>
> Over the last year and a half I brought back to life the electrical 
> systems of a '72 Mercedes and a '76 Alfa.? The cars had sat for 20 
> years and 16 years respectively. Both cars use the European style 
> ceramic fuses with aluminum exterior strips. I fiddled with ground 
> connections, fuses connections, etc, etc. with mixed results. There 
> was light corrosion everywhere. It was very frustrating and difficult 
> trying to clean so many connections by mechanical means.
>
> Then, on the recommendation of an Alfa guy I bought a can of the 
> 'lectric cleaner and gave it a try.? I was skeptical in the 
> beginning.? However, switches started switching,? Lights lit up. 
> Motors started moting.? Fuses started fusing.
>
> On some connectors I just backed off the screw enough to loosen and 
> wiggle the terminals and then sprayed away.? On many connectors I 
> didn't even do that.
>


From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Mon Oct 18 06:21:21 2021
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 08:21:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>
References: <CAKkXjqMysp_OdVdVOQxNO=bVo4+h5WU1MyQnuUYmd63Ez2KN6w@mail.gmail.com>
 <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8fbb664a-e9f0-8881-3d7b-01d2c59e4eed@roadrunner.com>

In my bench work as a Certified Electronics Technician, I have been 
using, and recommend, spray-can DeOxit for years. Great stuff.

Alex in Maine

1960 BT7, The Blue Mainie



On 10/17/2021 11:06 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> CRC makes a couple: 'Electronics Parts Cleaner,' and 'Electric Parts 
> Cleaner.' The latter is suitable for applications like this, but use 
> the former for electronic circuits and cleaning of other 'delicate' 
> stuff. The electrical parts cleaner will remove most paints.
>
>
> On 10/17/2021 5:23 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
>> I don't usually believe in the "miracle in a can" foolishness, 
>> .....BUT.... I am now a believer in the electric cleaner in a spray 
>> can.? There are a couple of different brands.
>>
>> Over the last year and a half I brought back to life the electrical 
>> systems of a '72 Mercedes and a '76 Alfa.? The cars had sat for 20 
>> years and 16 years respectively. Both cars use the European style 
>> ceramic fuses with aluminum exterior strips. I fiddled with ground 
>> connections, fuses connections, etc, etc. with mixed results. There 
>> was light corrosion everywhere. It was very frustrating and difficult 
>> trying to clean so many connections by mechanical means.
>>
>> Then, on the recommendation of an Alfa guy I bought a can of the 
>> 'lectric cleaner and gave it a try.? I was skeptical in the 
>> beginning.? However, switches started switching,? Lights lit up. 
>> Motors started moting.? Fuses started fusing.
>>
>> On some connectors I just backed off the screw enough to loosen and 
>> wiggle the terminals and then sprayed away.? On many connectors I 
>> didn't even do that.
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com
>


From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Oct 18 09:49:39 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 11:49:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Reverse shifter spring and plunger.
Message-ID: <579272222.340494920.1634572179647.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>



BJ8 tranny reverse shifter spring and plunger. If these need replacement, how involved is it to do----any tutorials available---anyone ever done this who can comment?Thankstom
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Oct 18 11:15:42 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 10:15:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fan Belt
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLxcnK26oAHWx5iDzFOi_udDXsheDUoSqZ7dUMk+=k0Uw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b48b6ad7-22b3-a8f9-fb66-5fd5fc54e6bf@comcast.net>,
 <CAFBXTkLxcnK26oAHWx5iDzFOi_udDXsheDUoSqZ7dUMk+=k0Uw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E6AC7CF5-0550-485E-AC30-CBB8406EF296@hxcore.ol>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Oct 18 12:15:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 11:15:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Reverse shifter spring and plunger.
In-Reply-To: <579272222.340494920.1634572179647.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <579272222.340494920.1634572179647.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <ef359086-32d5-b0b8-d3af-0586c9f8a6f4@comcast.net>

Haven't done it myself; but I'll offer my take anyway:

I can't see how you could do it without removing the shift fork, which 
requires removing the gearbox* (although you MAY not need to separate if 
from the O/D). Moss catalog shows the plunger and spring, and a detent 
plunger and spring. I can't tell from (my) photo how the detent plunger 
is retained, but it could be problematic; e.g. it might involve 
drilling. I've never even heard of someone doing this; the photo is my 
gearbox after a rebuild at 205K miles, and the spring and plunger were 
fine. What kind of damage do you see/suspect?

I'd call either, or both, David Nock or/and Tom Monaco and see what they 
say; else if you have a local transmission shop they might be able to 
offer advice.

Bob

* there are some critical 'nuances' WRT getting the gearbox back 
together; check back if you decide to tackle this.

On 10/18/2021 8:49 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> BJ8 tranny reverse shifter spring and plunger. If these need 
> replacement, how involved is it to do----any tutorials 
> available---anyone ever done this who can comment?
>
> Thanks
> tom
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Oct 18 15:16:44 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 14:16:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <CAAQpufmKXgGfBXsn6ZS3wFFC=ws_LJE4aW9S6PXJP=hYr-PCnA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAQpufmKXgGfBXsn6ZS3wFFC=ws_LJE4aW9S6PXJP=hYr-PCnA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <06c04249-31a1-d4cc-c132-a7d60e375998@comcast.net>


Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List 
emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message --------
Subject: 	Healey Shift Stick
Date: 	Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400
From: 	Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
To: 	Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>



It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to 
you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems.

Thanks for your help,

Bob Begani

*From:* rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
<rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>>
*Sent:* Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
*To:* healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
*Subject:* FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

Listeners:

I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went 
astray.? Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found 
the following:

the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in

reverse. Very inconvenient?? Shift lever just flopped around, and would not

engage anything.

The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in 
the

remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.

you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.? It is N/A, but you

can make one.? Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If

my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the

bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows

the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.

This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,

controlling its side-to-side motion.? If the lever goes too far to one side

of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.

Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall

length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.

So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no 
longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was 
going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock 
washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.? With a little 
adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter 
to go through all the gears. My question to the Group, is this the 
finished product?? Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know 
the length, and so on?

As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a 
bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.? The ?into socket the 
shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and 
circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the 
road.

Let me know if you have any suggestions,

Regards,

Bob Begani

BJ8 late model

*From:* rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
<rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>>
*Sent:* Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
*To:* healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
*Subject:* BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into 
first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left 
and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.? The trans is 
locked in reverse.? When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.? So, 
before I remove the shift stick from the trans,? What should I do?

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Oct 18 16:56:36 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 15:56:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <06c04249-31a1-d4cc-c132-a7d60e375998@comcast.net>
References: <CAAQpufmKXgGfBXsn6ZS3wFFC=ws_LJE4aW9S6PXJP=hYr-PCnA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <06c04249-31a1-d4cc-c132-a7d60e375998@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4666C31D-2C4E-4065-B245-78B451AD3BB4@hxcore.ol>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Oct 18 18:20:30 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 00:20:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <4666C31D-2C4E-4065-B245-78B451AD3BB4@hxcore.ol>
References: <CAAQpufmKXgGfBXsn6ZS3wFFC=ws_LJE4aW9S6PXJP=hYr-PCnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <06c04249-31a1-d4cc-c132-a7d60e375998@comcast.net>
 <4666C31D-2C4E-4065-B245-78B451AD3BB4@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <1335981311.2264821.1634602830435@mail.yahoo.com>

Later cars had 1/4 inch bolts with extended tips in place of the roll pins.


-----Original Message-----
From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 18, 2021 6:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

#yiv5548901467 #yiv5548901467 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5548901467 #yiv5548901467 p.yiv5548901467MsoNormal, #yiv5548901467 li.yiv5548901467MsoNormal, #yiv5548901467 div.yiv5548901467MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5548901467 a:link, #yiv5548901467 span.yiv5548901467MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5548901467 .yiv5548901467MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv5548901467 div.yiv5548901467WordSection1 {}#yiv5548901467 Bob x 2, ?The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago. ?Harold ?From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick ? ?Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message -------- 
| Subject:  | Healey Shift Stick |
| Date:  | Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400 |
| From:  | Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> |
| To:  | Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> |

 ??It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems.? ?Thanks for your help,?Bob Begani?From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter?Listeners:?I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.? Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following:?the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in reverse.? Very inconvenient?? Shift lever just flopped around, and would not engage anything.The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in the remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.?you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.? It is N/A, but you can make one.? Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket. This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever, controlling its side-to-side motion.? If the lever goes too far to one side of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.?So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.? With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.? My question to the Group, is this the finished product?? Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on??As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.? The ?into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road.? ?Let me know if you have any suggestions,?Regards,?Bob BeganiBJ8 late model?From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter?I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.? The trans is locked in reverse.? When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.? So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,? What should I do???Bob Begani? 67 BJ8 ?_______________________________________________
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Oct 18 20:13:34 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 02:13:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
Message-ID: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>

A small, but important point. Be sure to use the correct item #116-the
bushing for the shifter. The earlier cars used a brass bush, and the
BJs used a plastic one. They are not interchangeable. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys", "rfbegani at gmail.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 18 2021 4:00:56PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

	Bob x 2, 

	The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with
two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755?
diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the
round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item
#118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple
of days ago. 

	Harold 

	FROM: Bob Spidell
SENT: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
TO: Healeys
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick  

	Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

 ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar,
List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.

 -------- Forwarded Message -------- 

	 SUBJECT:   

	Healey Shift Stick  

	 DATE:   

	Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400  

	 FROM:   

	Bob Begani   

	 TO:   

	Bob Spidell   

	It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to
you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift
problems.  

	Thanks for your help, 

	Bob Begani 

	FROM: rfbegani at gmail.com 
SENT: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
TO: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter 

	Listeners: 

	I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it
went astray. Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and
found the following: 

	the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was
stuck in 

	reverse. Very inconvenient Shift lever just flopped around, and would
not 

	engage anything. 

	The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket
in the 

	remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission. 

	you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31. It is N/A, but
you 

	can make one. Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission.
If 

	my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end
of the 

	bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which
allows 

	the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its
socket. 

	This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift
lever, 

	controlling its side-to-side motion. If the lever goes too far to one
side 

	of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around. 

	Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the
overall 

	length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are
done. 

	So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no
longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist
was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock
washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball. With a little
adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the
shifter to go through all the gears. My question to the Group, is this
the finished product? Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one
know the length, and so on? 

	As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have
been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick. The into
socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a
new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get
me back on the road.  

	Let me know if you have any suggestions, 

	Regards, 

	Bob Begani 

	BJ8 late model 

	FROM: rfbegani at gmail.com 
SENT: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
TO: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter 

	I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into
first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left
and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose. The trans
is locked in reverse. When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.
So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans, What should I do? 

	Bob Begani    

	67 BJ8 

	
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Oct 19 02:26:36 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 04:26:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Testing the sending of an email to Healeys@autox.team.net
Message-ID: <027701d7c4c3$088f8810$19ae9830$@gmail.com>

 

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Oct 19 02:30:36 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 09:30:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>
References: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>
Message-ID: <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I?ve got a MkII BT7 so was a bit surprised to find the plastic insert. Or is it nylon? AHSpares showed the brass one which I then assumed was an improved version. Somehow I avoided that particular pitfall, having found enough with my clutch. I did however ? quite inexplicably -  find the correct one in one of my ?boxes of bits?. 

 

The answer to the apparent conundrum? My gearbox is gold in colour which leads me to believe it?s a BMC ?Gold Seal? replacement. I?d thought they only did engines. However, they seem to have done at least one gearbox. I?ve not had to delve far enough into the gearbox to determine if it?s primarily MkII or III. It has the roll pins referred to today. Not the bolts. God, getting that circlip and washer in on top of that spring was a game and a half!

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: 19 October 2021 03:14
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

 

A small, but important point.  Be sure to use the correct item #116-the bushing for the shifter. The earlier cars used a brass bush, and the BJs used a plastic one. They are not interchangeable. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys", "rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> "
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 18 2021 4:00:56PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

Bob x 2,

 

The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago.

 

Harold

 

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

 

 

Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message --------


Subject:

Healey Shift Stick


Date:

Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400


From:

Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >


To:

Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >

 

 

It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems. 

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> 
Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

 

Listeners:

 

I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following:

 

the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in

reverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would not

engage anything.

The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in the

remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.

 

you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but you

can make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If

my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the

bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows

the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.

This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,

controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one side

of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.

Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall

length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.

 

So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on?

 

As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road. 

 

Let me know if you have any suggestions,

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

BJ8 late model

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> 
Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

 

I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?

 

 

Bob Begani 

67 BJ8

 

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Oct 19 04:13:55 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 06:13:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>
 <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <32124229.342454065.1634638435287.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Speaking of the BJ8 plastic one, is there a washer of some sort that goes under the plastic piece  I think I saw one in a diagram somewhere.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: simon lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: gradea1 at charter.net, 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 04:30:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

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-->I?ve got a MkII BT7 so was a bit surprised to find the plastic insert. Or is it nylon? AHSpares showed the brass one which I then assumed was an improved version. Somehow I avoided that particular pitfall, having found enough with my clutch. I did however ? quite inexplicably -  find the correct one in one of my ?boxes of bits?.  The answer to the apparent conundrum? My gearbox is gold in colour which leads me to believe it?s a BMC ?Gold Seal? replacement. I?d thought they only did engines. However, they seem to have done at least one gearbox. I?ve not had to delve far enough into the gearbox to determine if it?s primarily MkII or III. It has the roll pins referred to today. Not the bolts. God, getting that circlip and washer in on top of that spring was a game and a half!Simon From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: 19 October 2021 03:14
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick A small, but important point.  Be sure to use the correct item #116-the bushing for the shifter. The earlier cars used a brass bush, and the BJs used a plastic one. They are not interchangeable. Hank-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys", "rfbegani at gmail.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 18 2021 4:00:56PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift StickBob x 2, The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago. Harold From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick  Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message --------Subject:Healey Shift StickDate:Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400From:Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>To:Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>  It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems.  Thanks for your help, Bob Begani From:rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
To:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter Listeners: I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following: the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck inreverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would notengage anything.The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in theremote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission. you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but youcan make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. Ifmy problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of thebolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allowsthe shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one sideof the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overalllength, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done. So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on? As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road.  Let me know if you have any suggestions, Regards, Bob BeganiBJ8 late model From:rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
To:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?  Bob Begani 67 BJ8 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Oct 18 18:15:50 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2021 20:15:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <4666C31D-2C4E-4065-B245-78B451AD3BB4@hxcore.ol>
References: <4666C31D-2C4E-4065-B245-78B451AD3BB4@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <FCAC11ED-31C0-464D-911C-E2DA1667FF8C@aol.com>

Later cars had 1/4 inch bolts to replace the roll pins. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2021, at 6:59 PM, Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Bob x 2,
>  
> The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago.
>  
> Harold
>  
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
>  
>  
> Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:
> 
> ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.
> 
> 
> -------- Forwarded Message --------
> Subject:
> Healey Shift Stick
> Date:
> Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400
> From:
> Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> To:
> Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>  
> 
>  
> It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems. 
>  
> Thanks for your help,
>  
> Bob Begani
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
> To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter
>  
> Listeners:
>  
> I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following:
>  
> the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in
> reverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would not
> engage anything.
> The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in the
> remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.
>  
> you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but you
> can make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If
> my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the
> bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows
> the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.
> This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,
> controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one side
> of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.
> Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall
> length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.
>  
> So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on?
>  
> As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road. 
>  
> Let me know if you have any suggestions,
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Bob Begani
> BJ8 late model
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
> To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter
>  
> I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?
>  
>  
> Bob Begani 
> 67 BJ8
>  
> <Plate FC_ Illustration_ A8442.pdf>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Oct 19 05:40:27 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 07:40:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <1335981311.2264821.1634602830435@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1335981311.2264821.1634602830435@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D995F5BC-406C-43D6-BF62-3BB78955F99D@aol.com>

It is not a washer that is depicted in the Moss Motors catalog or the repair manuals but a circlip ( spring wire) that holds the two halves of the bushing together. 
P

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2021, at 8:21 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote:
> 
> ?
> Later cars had 1/4 inch bolts with extended tips in place of the roll pins.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 18, 2021 6:56 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
> 
> Bob x 2,
>  
> The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago.
>  
> Harold
>  
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
>  
>  
> Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:
> 
> ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.
> 
> 
> -------- Forwarded Message --------
> Subject:
> Healey Shift Stick
> Date:
> Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400
> From:
> Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> To:
> Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>  
>  
> It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems. 
>  
> Thanks for your help,
>  
> Bob Begani
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
> To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter
>  
> Listeners:
>  
> I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following:
>  
> the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in
> reverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would not
> engage anything.
> The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in the
> remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.
>  
> you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but you
> can make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If
> my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the
> bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows
> the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.
> This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,
> controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one side
> of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.
> Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall
> length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.
>  
> So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on?
>  
> As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road. 
>  
> Let me know if you have any suggestions,
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Bob Begani
> BJ8 late model
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
> To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter
>  
> I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?
>  
>  
> Bob Begani 
> 67 BJ8
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Oct 19 06:35:54 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 08:35:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Shift Stick
References: <C9E4E297-4B85-4B12-B16A-3E176E061210.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C9E4E297-4B85-4B12-B16A-3E176E061210@aol.com>

Bolt - including tip- 3/4 inch thread below head
Tip - diameter 0.20 inch
          Length  0.25 inch

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Sent from my iPhone

From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Oct 19 10:43:28 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 12:43:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <C9E4E297-4B85-4B12-B16A-3E176E061210@aol.com>
References: <C9E4E297-4B85-4B12-B16A-3E176E061210.ref@aol.com>
 <C9E4E297-4B85-4B12-B16A-3E176E061210@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05ed01d7c508$71b86880$55293980$@gmail.com>

Great picture, thanks.. So you are indicating that the tip should  enter the
hole in the shaft?

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Perry Small via
Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2021 8:36 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Shift Stick

Bolt - including tip- 3/4 inch thread below head Tip - diameter 0.20 inch
          Length  0.25 inch



From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Oct 19 11:21:02 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 13:21:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <05ed01d7c508$71b86880$55293980$@gmail.com>
References: <05ed01d7c508$71b86880$55293980$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D845A606-CD6E-4172-94A9-DFD92A55C4F4@aol.com>

No, if the two set screws are in the holes they will limit the movement of the shift lever, allowing fore and aft but not side to side. The tip should rest in the bottom of the slot in neutral.  
P

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 19, 2021, at 12:43 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> ?Great picture, thanks.. So you are indicating that the tip should  enter the
> hole in the shaft?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Perry Small via
> Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2021 8:36 AM
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Shift Stick
> 
> Bolt - including tip- 3/4 inch thread below head Tip - diameter 0.20 inch
>          Length  0.25 inch
> 
> 


From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Oct 19 16:29:36 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 18:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related - but somewhat funny.
References: <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA@aol.com>

Warning 
Prepare yourself before having a genetic test done to help find your relatives. Arranged our first meeting on Main Street at Disney World Florida. He had a British accent! Said he liked Austin Healeys?..but they were to small for him!
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From healeyray at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 19 21:48:17 2021
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 03:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related - but somewhat funny.
In-Reply-To: <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA@aol.com>
References: <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA.ref@aol.com>
 <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA@aol.com>
Message-ID: <485845203.4885562.1634701697253@mail.yahoo.com>

 I see the resemblance, it's the white beards....Ray

    On Tuesday, October 19, 2021, 03:30:31 PM PDT, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Warning 
Prepare yourself before having a genetic test done to help find your relatives. Arranged our first meeting on Main Street at Disney World Florida. He had a British accent! Said he liked Austin Healeys?..but they were to small for him!
P



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com

  
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 19 22:43:22 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 21:43:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related - but somewhat funny.
In-Reply-To: <485845203.4885562.1634701697253@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA.ref@aol.com>
 <6506EC96-46E6-4034-AA62-1A11DAF8D9DA@aol.com>
 <485845203.4885562.1634701697253@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89PewrXoSv+U3xo7c4VzCTjvB4bDYLbLOTLTDuhHzedFg@mail.gmail.com>

Martin fits, so what's the problem.?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Oct 19, 2021, 8:49 PM Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I see the resemblance, it's the white beards....
> Ray
>
> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021, 03:30:31 PM PDT, Perry Small via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Warning
> Prepare yourself before having a genetic test done to help find your
> relatives. Arranged our first meeting on Main Street at Disney World
> Florida. He had a British accent! Said he liked Austin Healeys?..but they
> were to small for him!
> P
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Oct 19 05:57:25 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 07:57:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>
 <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <02f101d7c4e0$7be543a0$73afcae0$@gmail.com>



Moss shows above item no 31 and 32 a ? inch threaded bolt with the end threads being ground down is for the late BJ8 cars.. also lists a nylon bushing instead of bronze for same cars. So how does the bush stay in place?  Will have to order one to find out.

 

Still hoping for some feedback from the group on the length of the bolts and the unthreaded dimensions

 

Meanwhile, I looked at the archives and my emails are not listed yet. However, those from the group the past 2 days are gibberish all letters and symbols where text should be shown.  Somethings strange in the list operations.  Have not heard back from Mark 

 

Bob

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com.
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2021 4:31 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

 

I?ve got a MkII BT7 so was a bit surprised to find the plastic insert. Or is it nylon? AHSpares showed the brass one which I then assumed was an improved version. Somehow I avoided that particular pitfall, having found enough with my clutch. I did however ? quite inexplicably -  find the correct one in one of my ?boxes of bits?. 

 

The answer to the apparent conundrum? My gearbox is gold in colour which leads me to believe it?s a BMC ?Gold Seal? replacement. I?d thought they only did engines. However, they seem to have done at least one gearbox. I?ve not had to delve far enough into the gearbox to determine if it?s primarily MkII or III. It has the roll pins referred to today. Not the bolts. God, getting that circlip and washer in on top of that spring was a game and a half!

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: 19 October 2021 03:14
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> >
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

 

A small, but important point.  Be sure to use the correct item #116-the bushing for the shifter. The earlier cars used a brass bush, and the BJs used a plastic one. They are not interchangeable. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys", "rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> "
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 18 2021 4:00:56PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

Bob x 2,

 

The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago.

 

Harold

 

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

 

 

Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message --------


Subject:

Healey Shift Stick


Date:

Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400


From:

Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >


To:

Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >

 

 

It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems. 

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> 
Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

 

Listeners:

 

I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following:

 

the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck in

reverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would not

engage anything.

The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in the

remote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission.

 

you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but you

can make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. If

my problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of the

bolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allows

the shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.

This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,

controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one side

of the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.

Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overall

length, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done.

 

So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on?

 

As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road. 

 

Let me know if you have any suggestions,

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

BJ8 late model

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> >
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
To: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> 
Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter

 

I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?

 

 

Bob Begani 

67 BJ8

 

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Oct 20 06:49:20 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 08:49:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
Message-ID: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 20 07:04:42 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 13:04:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
In-Reply-To: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>
References: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB250787AE998C32AF302F93B7D1BE9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration by a well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car that claimed to be a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate paperwork to show it?s provenance.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Bob Haskell via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
To: Healey List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer

A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:

10 questions for HealeyRick: https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0>
1956 100-M no reserve auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0>




Cheers,



Bob Haskell

Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 20 08:28:49 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 07:28:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB250787AE998C32AF302F93B7D1BE9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>
 <DM6PR17MB250787AE998C32AF302F93B7D1BE9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <b561a24c-cd12-d665-a331-cfd53956f403@comcast.net>

I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen what appears 
to be the same car--black/red wasn't a common color AFAIK--for sale at a 
couple places over the last few years.

IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars' brokered for 
a family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same car (IIRC, it went for 
around $200K after a 'mild' resto).

Bob

On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration by a 
> well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car that claimed 
> to be a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate paperwork to show 
> it?s provenance.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows
>
> *From: *Bob Haskell via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
> *To: *Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Bring A Trailer
>
> A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:
>
> 10 questions for HealeyRick: 
> https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/ 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0>
> 1956 100-M no reserve auction: 
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/ 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0>
>
> Cheers,
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Oct 20 09:39:44 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 08:39:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
In-Reply-To: <b561a24c-cd12-d665-a331-cfd53956f403@comcast.net>
References: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>
 <DM6PR17MB250787AE998C32AF302F93B7D1BE9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <b561a24c-cd12-d665-a331-cfd53956f403@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRw2vipa8nLfF_iMWrLXRahjsk2=W-4765Zq5p_xid1eA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

I am familiar with this car, restored by Forever Healeys in Post Falls ID.
West coast car that I don't believe as ANYTHING to do with Wayne Carini.

I believe that I judged this car Concours Gold several years ago.

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen what appears to
> be the same car--black/red wasn't a common color AFAIK--for sale at a
> couple places over the last few years.
>
> IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars' brokered for a
> family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same car (IIRC, it went for
> around $200K after a 'mild' resto).
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration by a
> well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car that claimed to be
> a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate paperwork to show it?s
> provenance.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Bob Haskell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
> *To: *Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Bring A Trailer
>
>
>
> A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:
>
> 10 questions for HealeyRick:
> https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0>
> 1956 100-M no reserve auction:
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0>
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Bob Haskell
>
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 20 11:21:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 10:21:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRw2vipa8nLfF_iMWrLXRahjsk2=W-4765Zq5p_xid1eA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6c46d34c-5015-076e-92b9-2ed3a948df67@earthlink.net>
 <DM6PR17MB250787AE998C32AF302F93B7D1BE9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <b561a24c-cd12-d665-a331-cfd53956f403@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRw2vipa8nLfF_iMWrLXRahjsk2=W-4765Zq5p_xid1eA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bd3818d2-0158-bf2f-f121-ff8c2df26fd9@comcast.net>

First cockpit trim piece I've seen with a groove; was this an option, or 
maybe an aftermarket piece (note the groove is apparent in the fourth 
photo on the listing; subsequent photos appear to be different)?? Here's 
my M's trim piece; AFAIK this is original, verified as 'Registry 
Certified' by the M Registry* and, of course, the BMIHT cert. 
Interesting this has a recent (September) BMIHT cert; looks like they've 
changed the wording for 'M' confirmation (my much earlier cert just 
implies this is an M car because of the 'louvred' bonnet). Beautiful car 
to be sure.

I have the same radiator hose clamps; this is the only other car I've 
seen with them; are they correct? I had a long 'conversation' with Rich 
Chrysler over these, but to this day I'm not sure if we were on the same 
page. IIRC, he called them 'Jubilee clamps,' but I think those are the 
screw-on type. One thing's for sure: they will be a royal PITA if I ever 
have to replace the hoses.

Bob

* I realize this is not the canonical source, but AFAIK it's the most 
comprehensive database available (unfortunately, probably not as 
reliable as Steve's BJ8 database). Bill requires various 'proof' items 
for 'Registry Certification,' like proper stamped numbers on trim 
pieces, the boot prop, etc. and the hand-scribed notations on the carbs 
and, I think, the distributor (though they may be stamped). Note I'm not 
interested in disputing /anybody's /car's authenticity; my dad and I 
made reasonable efforts to keep our car as original as possible, but I 
insisted on some maintainabilty/drivability mods (K&N air filter, 
Pertronix). I am, slowly, trying to address some of the incorrect things 
(like the LH side windshield post bolt).


On 10/20/2021 8:39 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am familiar with this?car, restored by Forever Healeys in Post Falls 
> ID. West coast car that I don't believe as ANYTHING to do with Wayne 
> Carini.
>
> I believe that I judged this car Concours Gold several years ago.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen what
>     appears to be the same car--black/red wasn't a common color
>     AFAIK--for sale at a couple places over the last few years.
>
>     IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars'
>     brokered for a family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same car
>     (IIRC, it went for around $200K after a 'mild' resto).
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>>
>>     This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration
>>     by a well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car
>>     that claimed to be a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate
>>     paperwork to show it?s provenance.
>>
>>     Jean
>>
>>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>>     for Windows
>>
>>     *From: *Bob Haskell via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Sent: *October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
>>     *To: *Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Subject: *[Healeys] Bring A Trailer
>>
>>     A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:
>>
>>     10 questions for HealeyRick:
>>     https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/
>>     <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0>
>>     1956 100-M no reserve auction:
>>     https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/
>>     <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0>
>>
>>       
>>     Cheers,
>>       
>>     Bob Haskell
>>     Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  http://autox.team.net/archive  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net>
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Wed Oct 20 11:41:49 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 13:41:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>
References: <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <86F0D0B1-1D77-4757-B47E-BCAB46EF522F@gmail.com>

Thank you very much to those on this list that replied to my electrical issue!!

I found the problem (I hope) - a loose spade connector.  Everything seems to be working like it should - no hot wires. 

Again, thank for your help!  This list is amazing!!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2021, at 11:07 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?CRC makes a couple: 'Electronics Parts Cleaner,' and 'Electric Parts Cleaner.' The latter is suitable for applications like this, but use the former for electronic circuits and cleaning of other 'delicate' stuff. The electrical parts cleaner will remove most paints.
> 
> 
>> On 10/17/2021 5:23 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
>> I don't usually believe in the "miracle in a can" foolishness, .....BUT.... I am now a believer in the electric cleaner in a spray can.  There are a couple of different brands.
>> 
>> Over the last year and a half I brought back to life the electrical systems of a '72 Mercedes and a '76 Alfa.  The cars had sat for 20 years and 16 years respectively. Both cars use the European style ceramic fuses with aluminum exterior strips. I fiddled with ground connections, fuses connections, etc, etc. with mixed results. There was light corrosion everywhere. It was very frustrating and difficult trying to clean so many connections by mechanical means.
>> 
>> Then, on the recommendation of an Alfa guy I bought a can of the 'lectric cleaner and gave it a try.  I was skeptical in the beginning.  However, switches started switching,  Lights lit up. Motors started moting.  Fuses started fusing.
>> 
>> On some connectors I just backed off the screw enough to loosen and wiggle the terminals and then sprayed away.  On many connectors I didn't even do that.
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com
> 

From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Oct 20 12:53:08 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 14:53:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <86F0D0B1-1D77-4757-B47E-BCAB46EF522F@gmail.com>
References: <17afd5bb-f683-7a9d-42e7-a029b44acdf4@comcast.net>
 <86F0D0B1-1D77-4757-B47E-BCAB46EF522F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <094a01d7c5e3$b9d103d0$2d730b70$@gmail.com>

Hi Price:

I had the same problem on the circuit to my electric fan and water pump which is only a few months old.  While the fuse was not hot, I changed it because it did not look as if it had a good connection to the holder on the fuse box.  New fuses a little longer that the older fuses and the ends just touch the holder.  Still no current flow. With the help of my friend who knows electric, we traced it to one loose wire to a spade and the other was wire to the alternator was just tired from overheating, so we installed new wire and connector and system worked.  I am hoping to remember all he showed me for the next time I have electrical problems.

Yes this Group is amazing.  

We should get together this winter.

Best regards,

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of R. Lindsay
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2021 1:42 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuses

Thank you very much to those on this list that replied to my electrical issue!!

I found the problem (I hope) - a loose spade connector.  Everything seems to be working like it should - no hot wires. 

Again, thank for your help!  This list is amazing!!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2021, at 11:07 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?CRC makes a couple: 'Electronics Parts Cleaner,' and 'Electric Parts Cleaner.' The latter is suitable for applications like this, but use the former for electronic circuits and cleaning of other 'delicate' stuff. The electrical parts cleaner will remove most paints.
> 
> 
>> On 10/17/2021 5:23 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
>> I don't usually believe in the "miracle in a can" foolishness, .....BUT.... I am now a believer in the electric cleaner in a spray can.  There are a couple of different brands.
>> 
>> Over the last year and a half I brought back to life the electrical systems of a '72 Mercedes and a '76 Alfa.  The cars had sat for 20 years and 16 years respectively. Both cars use the European style ceramic fuses with aluminum exterior strips. I fiddled with ground connections, fuses connections, etc, etc. with mixed results. There was light corrosion everywhere. It was very frustrating and difficult trying to clean so many connections by mechanical means.
>> 
>> Then, on the recommendation of an Alfa guy I bought a can of the 'lectric cleaner and gave it a try.  I was skeptical in the beginning.  However, switches started switching,  Lights lit up. Motors started moting.  Fuses started fusing.
>> 
>> On some connectors I just backed off the screw enough to loosen and wiggle the terminals and then sprayed away.  On many connectors I didn't even do that.
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com
> 
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Oct 20 19:25:35 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 21:25:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
Message-ID: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The originals are barely visible.  
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 20 19:36:08 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 18:36:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>

LEDs (except for the ignition light).


On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?? The 
> originals are barely visible.
>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Oct 21 00:41:48 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 07:41:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000a01d7c646$bcab43f0$3601cbd0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Ditto in a BT7 but the principle?s the same.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 21 October 2021 02:36
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs

 

LEDs (except for the ignition light).



On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:

What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The originals are barely visible.  

 

 

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From bsahemails at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 05:42:56 2021
From: bsahemails at gmail.com (bsahemails at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 07:42:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>

Do you have a LED bulb part #?

Thanks

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs

 

LEDs (except for the ignition light).



On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:

What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The originals are barely visible.  

 

 

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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 07:06:54 2021
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 09:06:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>

Part numbers and specific sources would be great.   Finding these things on
eBay or Amazon is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

Thanks!

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 7:46 AM <bsahemails at gmail.com> wrote:

> Do you have a LED bulb part #?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>
>
>
> LEDs (except for the ignition light).
>
> On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>
> What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The
> originals are barely visible.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Oct 21 07:13:28 2021
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 09:13:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <35b177eb-d975-e6c2-b27c-c5384888fda9@comcast.net>
References: <35b177eb-d975-e6c2-b27c-c5384888fda9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <807b20f6-ddff-7e11-4a99-6a273341b1b3@comcast.net>



Check out Little British Car Co as one source, and one who is familiar 
with Smith's instruments.? lbcarco.com

On 10/21/2021 9:06 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> Part numbers and specific sources would be great.? ?Finding these 
> things on eBay or Amazon is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 7:46 AM <bsahemails at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Do you have a LED bulb part #?
>
>     Thanks
>
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
>     *Bob Spidell
>     *Sent:* Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>
>     LEDs (except for the ignition light).
>
>     On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>
>         What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8??
>         The originals are barely visible.
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 08:37:44 2021
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 10:37:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
 <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6Dsb267tHZPzD75qHRuqVpN7jLdawZOTrSsT25wpB_pw@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,

All of the bulbs are available at Superbright.   Be sure to check if you
have the bayonet type or the screw in type.  I used the slightly longer
bulb for the tach to get the same amount of illumination as the rest of the
gauges (all gauges are really visible at night).  If you use the regular
length LED bulb, the tach will still be much dimmer than the rest of the
gauges.  You should also think about changing all the other bulbs;
stop/tail, turn signal as well.  With this LED change, all of these bulbs
will be much brighter (more visible to other drivers), safer for you as
well as being seen when stopping.  This also reduces the load on the wiring
harness and switches as well, also a good thing.  I also changed my
headlights.  What an improvement that was!  Now I can really see at night.

Fred
BJ8

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 9:07 AM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Part numbers and specific sources would be great.   Finding these things
> on eBay or Amazon is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 7:46 AM <bsahemails at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Do you have a LED bulb part #?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
>> Spidell
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>>
>>
>>
>> LEDs (except for the ignition light).
>>
>> On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The
>> originals are barely visible.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Oct 21 08:47:09 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 07:47:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c0e8bcb1-b4d4-085e-1849-8dea1f90af82@comcast.net>

Pull your old bulbs out; there will be a bulb size/type stamped on the 
metal base. They're all 'standard,' but I don't recall the size; I do 
remember (single element) turn signals are 1156 and running/brake combos 
are 1157 IIRC.

I've been happy with this outfit:

https://litezupp.com/

I see they sell kits now:

https://litezupp.com/epages/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061/Categories/LED_Kits_Austin_Healey

Bob

On 10/21/2021 4:42 AM, bsahemails at gmail.com wrote:
>
> Do you have a LED bulb part #?
>
> Thanks
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob 
> Spidell
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>
> LEDs (except for the ignition light).
>
> On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>
>     What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?? The
>     originals are barely visible.
>

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Oct 21 09:21:34 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 11:21:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
 <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <025c01d7c68f$55cb78a0$016269e0$@sympatico.ca>

I have used both these companies for British Car electrical services and parts, including LED replacements, and recommend them both.  If in doubt, a quick message to them describing what you are looking for and they will tell you what you need.

 

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com

 

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom via Healeys
Sent: October 21, 2021 9:07 AM
To: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs

 

Part numbers and specific sources would be great.   Finding these things on eBay or Amazon is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

 

Thanks!

 

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 7:46 AM <bsahemails at gmail.com <mailto:bsahemails at gmail.com> > wrote:

Do you have a LED bulb part #?

Thanks

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs

 

LEDs (except for the ignition light).

On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:

What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The originals are barely visible.  

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 09:28:02 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 11:28:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <025c01d7c68f$55cb78a0$016269e0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
 <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
 <025c01d7c68f$55cb78a0$016269e0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L++KSq8qJY+QxgE6pPaV_=mZ34VtXaZXFzp2ET=gzyy7w@mail.gmail.com>

But remember  ... your original flasher unit won't work with LEDs unless
you install a resistor in parallel with the load.

M

On Thu., Oct. 21, 2021, 11:21 a.m. , <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> I have used both these companies for British Car electrical services and
> parts, including LED replacements, and recommend them both.  If in doubt, a
> quick message to them describing what you are looking for and they will
> tell you what you need.
>
>
>
> http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com
>
>
>
> http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Tom via
> Healeys
> *Sent:* October 21, 2021 9:07 AM
> *To:* Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>
>
>
> Part numbers and specific sources would be great.   Finding these things
> on eBay or Amazon is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 7:46 AM <bsahemails at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Do you have a LED bulb part #?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 20, 2021 9:36 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Light bulbs
>
>
>
> LEDs (except for the ignition light).
>
> On 10/20/2021 6:25 PM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
>
> What kind of instrument light bulbs are you using in the BJ8?  The
> originals are barely visible.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Oct 21 09:37:29 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 08:37:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Light bulbs
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L++KSq8qJY+QxgE6pPaV_=mZ34VtXaZXFzp2ET=gzyy7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <517295138.346941492.1634779535283.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <540c5038-af6e-6e14-8523-6f9f0987fbd5@comcast.net>
 <004b01d7c670$cafd1760$60f74620$@gmail.com>
 <CANQM1PJZsZqBk0wXaJgwaS1EAZRRY8Gp39VKrchV5X6iEOi6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
 <025c01d7c68f$55cb78a0$016269e0$@sympatico.ca>,
 <CAB3i7L++KSq8qJY+QxgE6pPaV_=mZ34VtXaZXFzp2ET=gzyy7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D1D0E87B-12C4-4595-8C4C-1BD0471B6B0E@hxcore.ol>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 12:25:24 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 14:25:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Rear Springs
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>

As is so common with "offshore " products I'm having ongoing problems with
the currently available rear springs, in particular those for the 100.
It seems that all the usual suspects source these from the same
manufacturer in India and it is my suspicion that these are made from
substandard steel.
Typically leaf springs are made from 5160 steel which is incredibly
resistant to deformation and fatigue. I don't have facilities to determine
what steel is used to make these springs but it certainly isn't 5160!!
Has anyone found a source for rear springs which last more than a few years?

M
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Thu Oct 21 12:48:34 2021
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 20:48:34 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1634842114593.5674859.607c664330787d3d26cc146599e2a7a0379d6fdb@spica.telekom.de>

Hi Michael,
Try BCC in the UK. They do their own springs to original specification. 
Their leaf springs are first rate:
<https://britishclassiccarparts.com/collections/austin-healey/Product-Type_Suspension>
 
Josef Eckert
K?nigswinter/Germany
 
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] 100 Rear Springs
Datum: 2021-10-21T20:26:46+0200
Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 
 
 
As is so common with "offshore " products I'm having ongoing problems with 
the currently available rear springs, in particular those for the 100.
It seems that all the usual suspects source these from the same 
manufacturer in India and it is my suspicion that these are made from 
substandard steel. 
Typically leaf springs are made from 5160 steel which is incredibly 
resistant to deformation and fatigue. I don't have facilities to determine 
what steel is used to make these springs but it certainly isn't 5160!!
Has anyone found a source for rear springs which last more than a few 
years?
 
M
 
?
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From Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca  Thu Oct 21 13:48:01 2021
From: Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca (Norman Hendry)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 13:48:01 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
Message-ID: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>

Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)

Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:
1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals
2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?

I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.

Thank you

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Oct 21 16:15:08 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 18:15:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
Message-ID: <000001d7c6c9$1c2b87e0$548297a0$@verizon.net>

Take a look at Sidescreens.pdf (healey6.com) <http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Sidescreens.pdf>  

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Norman Hendry via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2021 3:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

 

Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)

 

Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:

1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals

2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?

 

I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.

 

Thank you

 

  _____  


 <https://www.avast.com/antivirus> 

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>  





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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 21 16:37:14 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 22:37:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <000001d7c6c9$1c2b87e0$548297a0$@verizon.net>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <000001d7c6c9$1c2b87e0$548297a0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB4276D9C4407C733AA59F3F8FBFBF9@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I rebuilt the side screens on my BN7 last year with the Moss kit. It was a bit of a PITA. I just tried to take a picture but it?s not very helpful.
Basically the outside screen is installed then the sliding inside screen. Then you need to ?milk? the felt all around (it?s a tight fit) starting with and under the fixed screen over the top of both then under the slidin screen bottom leaving the drainage holes free on the outside but keeping the sliding screen  on the felt in it?s slot.
Weird your fixed section blew out from pressure but if was warm, thereby flexible then I can see it happening.

Regards,
Richard C


On Oct 21, 2021, at 17:15, ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
Take a look at Sidescreens.pdf (healey6.com)<http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Sidescreens.pdf>

John Sims
www.healey6.com<http://www.healey6.com/>
Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Norman Hendry via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2021 3:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)

Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:
1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals
2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?

I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.

Thank you

________________________________
[Avast logo]<https://www.avast.com/antivirus>

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/antivirus>


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 21 16:41:30 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 22:41:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BAT
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881C7A56F00C2CA84C0B652D4BF9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Curious about the two recent sets of pictures. The distributor shows two different numbers in each set. Both seem to be M distributor numbers, but why two different pictures in the restoration documentation?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Oct 21 18:04:54 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 01:04:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Handbrake
Message-ID: <000001d7c6d8$73481b60$59d85220$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Or parking brake..whatever.

 

I'm having mine rechromed. 

Are the two big slotted screws that hold the assembly onto the tunnel
chromed? 

Is the rod down the middle chromed? (Mine has traces of what might have been
chrome once).

Thanks,

Simon

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 21 18:29:57 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 00:29:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Norman,
I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against the glass where it ends.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Norman Hendry via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 21, 2021 2:49 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)

Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:
1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals
2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?

I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.

Thank you


[Avast logo]<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554859752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=FTZrCGrUgL6%2BmL7Yx2koHIKEG%2BPCZMX6sKzmzmMERyM%3D&reserved=0>

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu Oct 21 18:32:06 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 00:32:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Handbrake
In-Reply-To: <000001d7c6d8$73481b60$59d85220$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d7c6d8$73481b60$59d85220$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB250786A21A6173049F305E71D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Never see the slotted screws chromed before. When you say the rod down the middle, are you talking about the rod where the push button is on at the top? If so, it is normally painted black.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 21, 2021 7:06 PM
To: 'Healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Handbrake

Or parking brake?.whatever.

I?m having mine rechromed.
Are the two big slotted screws that hold the assembly onto the tunnel chromed?
Is the rod down the middle chromed? (Mine has traces of what might have been chrome once).
Thanks,
Simon

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 20:54:38 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 22:54:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>

I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow out due
to increased pressure within the car, especially at speed.  Mounting and
fitting the curtains perfectly so that they notch in behind the windshield
stantions just enough to resist this force is not easy and I came up an
easy solution:  I mounted a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside
upper corner of each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of
each stantion using a small piece of angle in such a way that they are in
their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.  The magnets are more than
powerful enough to overcome the pressure from within the car and yet they
release when the door is opened.

I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes predrilled
in their center and they are chrome-plated.

Best--Michael Oritt, BN1

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Norman,
>
> I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own
> glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the
> glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against
> the glass where it ends.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Norman Hendry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *October 21, 2021 2:49 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
>
>
>
> Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new
> side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise
> protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I
> increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew
> out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)
>
>
>
> Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the
> original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:
>
> 1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ?
> same as the originals
>
> 2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a
> high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as
> the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the
> channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?
>
>
>
> I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at
> parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how
> the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative
> of help and guidance.
>
>
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
> [image: Avast logo]
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554859752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=FTZrCGrUgL6%2BmL7Yx2koHIKEG%2BPCZMX6sKzmzmMERyM%3D&reserved=0>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554869746%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=3z75qdOAPLBhMCR160GtQ49z0KQgm11ltDGl9d62cXw%3D&reserved=0>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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-- 
Best--Michael
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Thu Oct 21 22:08:59 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 17:08:59 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Copiglia band clamps
Message-ID: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>

Bob,

 

I have some of those clips, generically called ?band clamps?.   Jubilee clamps are a brand on their own, and not the same.

Some 40 years ago I visited Stephen Griswold?s restoration shop.  They knew them only as ?Italian? clips.  But they are more correctly known a Copiglia band clamps.

They are used a lot on Alfa-Romeos but, a Ferrari-owning friends tells me, not on Ferraris.

I have a bunch of them on my shelf.  

The only Hundred I?ve seen them on is Roger Moment?s, when I last saw it in 2008 ? photo below.   I thought they were fitted only to the early BN1s.  Curt: am I correct?

 

Mark

 

Ardmore

New Zealand

 

          

 

 

          

 

 

 

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 21 October 2021 6:21 AM
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer

 

First cockpit trim piece I've seen with a groove; was this an option, or maybe an aftermarket piece (note the groove is apparent in the fourth photo on the listing; subsequent photos appear to be different)?  Here's my M's trim piece; AFAIK this is original, verified as 'Registry Certified' by the M Registry* and, of course, the BMIHT cert. Interesting this has a recent (September) BMIHT cert; looks like they've changed the wording for 'M' confirmation (my much earlier cert just implies this is an M car because of the 'louvred' bonnet). Beautiful car to be sure.

I have the same radiator hose clamps; this is the only other car I've seen with them; are they correct? I had a long 'conversation' with Rich Chrysler over these, but to this day I'm not sure if we were on the same page. IIRC, he called them 'Jubilee clamps,' but I think those are the screw-on type. One thing's for sure: they will be a royal PITA if I ever have to replace the hoses.

Bob

* I realize this is not the canonical source, but AFAIK it's the most comprehensive database available (unfortunately, probably not as reliable as Steve's BJ8 database). Bill requires various 'proof' items for 'Registry Certification,' like proper stamped numbers on trim pieces, the boot prop, etc. and the hand-scribed notations on the carbs and, I think, the distributor (though they may be stamped). Note I'm not interested in disputing anybody's car's authenticity; my dad and I made reasonable efforts to keep our car as original as possible, but I insisted on some maintainabilty/drivability mods (K&N air filter, Pertronix). I am, slowly, trying to address some of the incorrect things (like the LH side windshield post bolt).



On 10/20/2021 8:39 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

Hi all, 

 

I am familiar with this car, restored by Forever Healeys in Post Falls ID. West coast car that I don't believe as ANYTHING to do with Wayne Carini.  

 

I believe that I judged this car Concours Gold several years ago.

 

Cheers,

 

Curt

 

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen what appears to be the same car--black/red wasn't a common color AFAIK--for sale at a couple places over the last few years.

IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars' brokered for a family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same car (IIRC, it went for around $200K after a 'mild' resto).

Bob

On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:

This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration by a well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car that claimed to be a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate paperwork to show it?s provenance.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Bob Haskell via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
To: Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer

 

A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:

10 questions for HealeyRick: https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/ <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0> 
1956 100-M no reserve auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/ <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0> 

 
Cheers,
 
Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 





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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Oct 21 22:54:57 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 21:54:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Copiglia band clamps
In-Reply-To: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <afa7af53-af4d-1eda-6e96-8c789423beb5@comcast.net>

Both this car and the BaT car have radiator hoses that appear to be 
wrapped with a cloth-like material. I've never seen seen them sold 
anywhere; they must be unique to 100s?


On 10/21/2021 9:08 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I have some of those clips, generically called ?band clamps?. 
> *Jubilee* clamps are a brand on their own, and not the same.
>
> Some 40 years ago I visited Stephen Griswold?s restoration shop. They 
> knew them only as ?Italian? clips.? But they are more correctly known 
> a *Copiglia band clamps*.
>
> They are used a lot on Alfa-Romeos but, a Ferrari-owning friends tells 
> me, not on Ferraris.
>
> I have a bunch of them on my shelf.
>
> The only Hundred I?ve seen them on is Roger Moment?s, when I last saw 
> it in 2008 ? photo below.?? I thought they were fitted only to the 
> early BN1s.? Curt: am I correct?
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> New Zealand
>
> *From:*Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, 21 October 2021 6:21 AM
> *To:* Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer
>
> First cockpit trim piece I've seen with a groove; was this an option, 
> or maybe an aftermarket piece (note the groove is apparent in the 
> fourth photo on the listing; subsequent photos appear to be 
> different)?? Here's my M's trim piece; AFAIK this is original, 
> verified as 'Registry Certified' by the M Registry* and, of course, 
> the BMIHT cert. Interesting this has a recent (September) BMIHT cert; 
> looks like they've changed the wording for 'M' confirmation (my much 
> earlier cert just implies this is an M car because of the 'louvred' 
> bonnet). Beautiful car to be sure.
>
> I have the same radiator hose clamps; this is the only other car I've 
> seen with them; are they correct? I had a long 'conversation' with 
> Rich Chrysler over these, but to this day I'm not sure if we were on 
> the same page. IIRC, he called them 'Jubilee clamps,' but I think 
> those are the screw-on type. One thing's for sure: they will be a 
> royal PITA if I ever have to replace the hoses.
>
> Bob
>
> * I realize this is not the canonical source, but AFAIK it's the most 
> comprehensive database available (unfortunately, probably not as 
> reliable as Steve's BJ8 database). Bill requires various 'proof' items 
> for 'Registry Certification,' like proper stamped numbers on trim 
> pieces, the boot prop, etc. and the hand-scribed notations on the 
> carbs and, I think, the distributor (though they may be stamped). Note 
> I'm not interested in disputing /anybody's /car's authenticity; my dad 
> and I made reasonable efforts to keep our car as original as possible, 
> but I insisted on some maintainabilty/drivability mods (K&N air 
> filter, Pertronix). I am, slowly, trying to address some of the 
> incorrect things (like the LH side windshield post bolt).
>
> On 10/20/2021 8:39 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>
>     Hi all,
>
>     I am familiar with this?car, restored by Forever Healeys in Post
>     Falls ID. West coast car that I don't believe as ANYTHING to do
>     with Wayne Carini.
>
>     I believe that I judged this car Concours Gold several years ago.
>
>     Cheers,
>
>     Curt
>
>     On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen
>         what appears to be the same car--black/red wasn't a common
>         color AFAIK--for sale at a couple places over the last few years.
>
>         IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars'
>         brokered for a family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same
>         car (IIRC, it went for around $200K after a 'mild' resto).
>
>         Bob
>
>         On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
>             This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent
>             restoration by a well know restorer of the marque and
>             unlike the last car that claimed to be a 100M on BAT, this
>             one has all the legitimate paperwork to show it?s provenance.
>
>             Jean
>
>             Sent from Mail
>             <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows
>
>             *From: *Bob Haskell via Healeys
>             <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>             *Sent: *October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
>             *To: *Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>             *Subject: *[Healeys] Bring A Trailer
>
>             A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:
>
>             10 questions for HealeyRick:
>             https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/
>             <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0>
>             1956 100-M no reserve auction:
>             https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/
>             <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0>
>
>               
>
>             Cheers,
>
>               
>
>             Bob Haskell
>
>             Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
>
>
>             _______________________________________________
>
>             Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>
>             Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>             Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  http://autox.team.net/archive  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>             Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>             Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net>
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com>
>

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Thu Oct 21 23:02:58 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 18:02:58 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Copiglia band clamps
In-Reply-To: <afa7af53-af4d-1eda-6e96-8c789423beb5@comcast.net>
References: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <afa7af53-af4d-1eda-6e96-8c789423beb5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003401d7c702$165d3c30$4317b490$@xtra.co.nz>

I?ve only ever seen those wrapped radiator hoses in photos of the very first BN1s, and some A90 Atlantics.   Here again, Curt, you being a concours authority, will be able to tell us.

 

That aside, they don?t look very pretty, do they?  They remind me of the puttees that commonwealth soldiers wore in WWI and WWII

 

Best

Mark

 



 

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Friday, 22 October 2021 5:55 PM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; 'Curtis Arndt' <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Copiglia band clamps

 

Both this car and the BaT car have radiator hoses that appear to be wrapped with a cloth-like material. I've never seen seen them sold anywhere; they must be unique to 100s?



On 10/21/2021 9:08 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:

Bob,

 

I have some of those clips, generically called ?band clamps?.   Jubilee clamps are a brand on their own, and not the same.

Some 40 years ago I visited Stephen Griswold?s restoration shop.  They knew them only as ?Italian? clips.  But they are more correctly known a Copiglia band clamps.

They are used a lot on Alfa-Romeos but, a Ferrari-owning friends tells me, not on Ferraris.

I have a bunch of them on my shelf.  

The only Hundred I?ve seen them on is Roger Moment?s, when I last saw it in 2008 ? photo below.   I thought they were fitted only to the early BN1s.  Curt: am I correct?

 

Mark

 

Ardmore

New Zealand

 

          

 

 

          

 

 

 

From: Bob Spidell  <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 21 October 2021 6:21 AM
To: Curtis Arndt  <mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com> <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer

 

First cockpit trim piece I've seen with a groove; was this an option, or maybe an aftermarket piece (note the groove is apparent in the fourth photo on the listing; subsequent photos appear to be different)?  Here's my M's trim piece; AFAIK this is original, verified as 'Registry Certified' by the M Registry* and, of course, the BMIHT cert. Interesting this has a recent (September) BMIHT cert; looks like they've changed the wording for 'M' confirmation (my much earlier cert just implies this is an M car because of the 'louvred' bonnet). Beautiful car to be sure.

I have the same radiator hose clamps; this is the only other car I've seen with them; are they correct? I had a long 'conversation' with Rich Chrysler over these, but to this day I'm not sure if we were on the same page. IIRC, he called them 'Jubilee clamps,' but I think those are the screw-on type. One thing's for sure: they will be a royal PITA if I ever have to replace the hoses.

Bob

* I realize this is not the canonical source, but AFAIK it's the most comprehensive database available (unfortunately, probably not as reliable as Steve's BJ8 database). Bill requires various 'proof' items for 'Registry Certification,' like proper stamped numbers on trim pieces, the boot prop, etc. and the hand-scribed notations on the carbs and, I think, the distributor (though they may be stamped). Note I'm not interested in disputing anybody's car's authenticity; my dad and I made reasonable efforts to keep our car as original as possible, but I insisted on some maintainabilty/drivability mods (K&N air filter, Pertronix). I am, slowly, trying to address some of the incorrect things (like the LH side windshield post bolt).




On 10/20/2021 8:39 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

Hi all, 

 

I am familiar with this car, restored by Forever Healeys in Post Falls ID. West coast car that I don't believe as ANYTHING to do with Wayne Carini.  

 

I believe that I judged this car Concours Gold several years ago.

 

Cheers,

 

Curt

 

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

I think it's been 'around the horn' a few times; I've seen what appears to be the same car--black/red wasn't a common color AFAIK--for sale at a couple places over the last few years.

IIRC the 'barn find' Wayne Carini of 'Chasing Classic Cars' brokered for a family was black/red; I wonder if it's the same car (IIRC, it went for around $200K after a 'mild' resto).

Bob

On 10/20/2021 6:04 AM, Jean Caron wrote:

This factory 100M should bring top dollars, excellent restoration by a well know restorer of the marque and unlike the last car that claimed to be a 100M on BAT, this one has all the legitimate paperwork to show it?s provenance.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Bob Haskell via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: October 20, 2021 7:50 AM
To: Healey List <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Bring A Trailer

 

A couple items of interest on Bring a Trailer this morning:

10 questions for HealeyRick: https://bringatrailer.com/2021/10/19/10-questions-with-healeyrick/ <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2021%2F10%2F19%2F10-questions-with-healeyrick%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DfoOk4DAgCCErSzfNjcDlkRrZGLrh5xI24eg8364%2Foo%3D&reserved=0> 
1956 100-M no reserve auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11/ <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2Flisting%2F1956-austin-healey-100m-bn2-roadster-11%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0b736de16dcc4060471408d993c827c9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637703310140226425%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ZjWpMy6uYDXd2M8OTG8egqjhKSAqpmS3a%2FvIQOtAaXA%3D&reserved=0> 

 
Cheers,
 
Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 






_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 23:37:46 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 22:37:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Copiglia band clamps
In-Reply-To: <003401d7c702$165d3c30$4317b490$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <afa7af53-af4d-1eda-6e96-8c789423beb5@comcast.net>
 <003401d7c702$165d3c30$4317b490$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTNy9BP-yXHQor3Rws3LcKvYRTmX37001AomKe+7KGgAg@mail.gmail.com>

Here are the correct radiator clamps on my '55 BN1.

Cheers,

Curt
AH Concours Registry

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 10:03 PM Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

> I?ve only ever seen those wrapped radiator hoses in photos of the very
> first BN1s, and some A90 Atlantics.   Here again, Curt, you being a
> concours authority, will be able to tell us.
>
>
>
> That aside, they don?t look very pretty, do they?  They remind me of the
> puttees that commonwealth soldiers wore in WWI and WWII
>
>
>
> Best
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Oct 21 23:38:49 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2021 22:38:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Copiglia band clamps
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTNy9BP-yXHQor3Rws3LcKvYRTmX37001AomKe+7KGgAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000b01d7c6fa$8bbecd20$a33c6760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <afa7af53-af4d-1eda-6e96-8c789423beb5@comcast.net>
 <003401d7c702$165d3c30$4317b490$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAJKrNeTNy9BP-yXHQor3Rws3LcKvYRTmX37001AomKe+7KGgAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQTTBTxhCME7L3ELv0Tw3xkYbbOFuZfBNNCmdYpXknpgw@mail.gmail.com>

Another shot of my engine...

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 10:37 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Here are the correct radiator clamps on my '55 BN1.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
> AH Concours Registry
>
> On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 10:03 PM Mark Donaldson <
> ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
>> I?ve only ever seen those wrapped radiator hoses in photos of the very
>> first BN1s, and some A90 Atlantics.   Here again, Curt, you being a
>> concours authority, will be able to tell us.
>>
>>
>>
>> That aside, they don?t look very pretty, do they?  They remind me of the
>> puttees that commonwealth soldiers wore in WWI and WWII
>>
>>
>>
>> Best
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Oct 22 08:23:40 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 10:23:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey  stick shift
References: <DFDBFD61-FE4B-4C82-964C-B1409A1EDA5F.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DFDBFD61-FE4B-4C82-964C-B1409A1EDA5F@aol.com>

Another issue to consider if things are not quite right after assembling a pile of parts into a working gearbox, in this case the shifter. Make sure that nicely chrome plated shifter that you just found on eBay is the same as the one the one you removed or need for your gearbox. 
Little things are different even though they may look alike. 
Example: the small ball on the end of the stick is a different diameter on what appears to be a bunch of the same shifters. There are at least two different sizes. Couple that difference with the wrong bushing and things can get messy. 
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Oct 22 11:29:49 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 17:29:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Actually the effect you are seeing is the Bernoulli effect. The air outside is moving faster than the air inside, which lowers the pressure outside causing the screens to move out. It?s the same thing that allows airplanes to fly and sailboats to sail into the wind. The 100 doesn?t have a channel to hold the front of the screen so I made a couple tabs of strap ally and mounted them under the top hold down screws. Worked fine until my Moss side curtains fell apart. Got them in waiting until I get a new set...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 2:54 AM
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Cc: Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow out due to increased pressure within the car, especially at speed.  Mounting and fitting the curtains perfectly so that they notch in behind the windshield stantions just enough to resist this force is not easy and I came up an easy solution:  I mounted a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside upper corner of each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of each stantion using a small piece of angle in such a way that they are in their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.  The magnets are more than powerful enough to overcome the pressure from within the car and yet they release when the door is opened.

I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes predrilled in their center and they are chrome-plated.

Best--Michael Oritt, BN1

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Norman,

I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against the glass where it ends.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: Norman Hendry via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 21, 2021 2:49 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions



Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)



Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:

1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals

2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?



I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.



Thank you





[Avast logo]<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554859752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=FTZrCGrUgL6%2BmL7Yx2koHIKEG%2BPCZMX6sKzmzmMERyM%3D&reserved=0>

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_______________________________________________
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--
Best--Michael
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Oct 22 12:52:25 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 14:52:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B79rm5pCckbZJyF=UNUHkbcZMvXMUeX9uH-sQ2WUF4TzQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bill--

I have never met Mr. Bernouli and when I said that pressure inside the car
"increased" it would indeed have been more accurate to say that pressure
outside decreased due to the air molecules' having to travel a greater
distance, creating lift..  Fortunately the magnets' force is stronger than
the lift and my side curtains no longer pop out at highway speeds.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 1:29 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> Actually the effect you are seeing is the Bernoulli effect. The air
> outside is moving faster than the air inside, which lowers the pressure
> outside causing the screens to move out. It?s the same thing that allows
> airplanes to fly and sailboats to sail into the wind. The 100 doesn?t have
> a channel to hold the front of the screen so I made a couple tabs of strap
> ally and mounted them under the top hold down screws. Worked fine until my
> Moss side curtains fell apart. Got them in waiting until I get a new set...
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, October 22, 2021 2:54 AM
> *To:* Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>; healeys at autox.team.net <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
>
> I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow out due
> to increased pressure within the car, especially at speed.  Mounting and
> fitting the curtains perfectly so that they notch in behind the windshield
> stantions just enough to resist this force is not easy and I came up an
> easy solution:  I mounted a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside
> upper corner of each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of
> each stantion using a small piece of angle in such a way that they are in
> their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.  The magnets are more than
> powerful enough to overcome the pressure from within the car and yet they
> release when the door is opened.
>
> I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes
> predrilled in their center and they are chrome-plated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
> On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Norman,
>
> I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own
> glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the
> glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against
> the glass where it ends.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Norman Hendry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *October 21, 2021 2:49 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
>
>
>
> Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new
> side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise
> protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I
> increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew
> out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)
>
>
>
> Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the
> original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:
>
> 1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ?
> same as the originals
>
> 2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a
> high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as
> the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the
> channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?
>
>
>
> I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at
> parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how
> the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative
> of help and guidance.
>
>
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
> [image: Avast logo]
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554859752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=FTZrCGrUgL6%2BmL7Yx2koHIKEG%2BPCZMX6sKzmzmMERyM%3D&reserved=0>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus&data=04%7C01%7C%7C3f973818edd747624a1808d994cbdbc8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637704425554869746%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=3z75qdOAPLBhMCR160GtQ49z0KQgm11ltDGl9d62cXw%3D&reserved=0>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
>


-- 
Best--Michael
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Oct 22 15:01:47 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 21:01:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B79rm5pCckbZJyF=UNUHkbcZMvXMUeX9uH-sQ2WUF4TzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B79rm5pCckbZJyF=UNUHkbcZMvXMUeX9uH-sQ2WUF4TzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR13MB56359028A4AA7914E80D3408A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I never met the man either and if we had I doubt if we would be around to enjoy our Healey...
________________________________
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 6:52 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

Bill--

I have never met Mr. Bernouli and when I said that pressure inside the car "increased" it would indeed have been more accurate to say that pressure outside decreased due to the air molecules' having to travel a greater distance, creating lift..  Fortunately the magnets' force is stronger than the lift and my side curtains no longer pop out at highway speeds.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 1:29 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
Actually the effect you are seeing is the Bernoulli effect. The air outside is moving faster than the air inside, which lowers the pressure outside causing the screens to move out. It?s the same thing that allows airplanes to fly and sailboats to sail into the wind. The 100 doesn?t have a channel to hold the front of the screen so I made a couple tabs of strap ally and mounted them under the top hold down screws. Worked fine until my Moss side curtains fell apart. Got them in waiting until I get a new set...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 2:54 AM
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>>
Cc: Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca<mailto:Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow out due to increased pressure within the car, especially at speed.  Mounting and fitting the curtains perfectly so that they notch in behind the windshield stantions just enough to resist this force is not easy and I came up an easy solution:  I mounted a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside upper corner of each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of each stantion using a small piece of angle in such a way that they are in their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.  The magnets are more than powerful enough to overcome the pressure from within the car and yet they release when the door is opened.

I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes predrilled in their center and they are chrome-plated.

Best--Michael Oritt, BN1

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Norman,

I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against the glass where it ends.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: Norman Hendry via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: October 21, 2021 2:49 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions



Went for a drive the other day and as it was rather windy I fitted my new side screens for the first time and was impressed with the wind and noise protection they gave. Part of the drive took me onto a highway and when I increased the speed to 100 km/h the fixed screen on the drivers door blew out (thankfully there were no other cars around me)



Taking a closer look at the side screen frame and comparing it to the original side screen assemblies I noticed the following:

1. The siding screen is in the inner channel which has a felt U-section ? same as the originals

2. The outer channel, for the fixed screen is filled all-around with a high density felt which is just below the channel lip.  Is this right, as the felt blocks the drainage holes, the screen does not sit deep in the the channel, and the original side screens do not have this felt?



I have spent countless hours surfing the net, the archives, looking at parts books, and Gary Andersons restoration guidelines and can?t find how the screens are fitted inside the frame so I would be really appreciative of help and guidance.



Thank you





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--
Best--Michael
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 22 15:13:51 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2021 14:13:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR13MB56359028A4AA7914E80D3408A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B79rm5pCckbZJyF=UNUHkbcZMvXMUeX9uH-sQ2WUF4TzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB56359028A4AA7914E80D3408A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0dea1c60-89e2-4cd4-e497-591b8956919a@comcast.net>

I know from experience that airplanes fly because of money. Lots of it.


On 10/22/2021 2:01 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
> I never met the man either and if we had I doubt if we would be around 
> to enjoy our Healey...
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, October 22, 2021 6:52 PM
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Cc:* Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; Jean Caron 
> <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; Norman Hendry 
> <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
> Bill--
>
> I have never met Mr. Bernouli and when I said that pressure inside the 
> car "increased" it would indeed have been more accurate to say that 
> pressure outside decreased due to the air molecules' having to travel 
> a greater distance,?creating lift..? Fortunately the magnets' force is 
> stronger than the lift and my side curtains no longer pop out at 
> highway speeds.
>
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 1:29 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com 
> <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>     Actually the effect you are seeing is the Bernoulli effect. The
>     air outside is moving faster than the air inside, which lowers the
>     pressure outside causing the screens to move out. It?s the same
>     thing that allows airplanes to fly and sailboats to sail into the
>     wind. The 100 doesn?t have a channel to hold the front of the
>     screen so I made a couple tabs of strap ally and mounted them
>     under the top hold down screws. Worked fine until my Moss side
>     curtains fell apart. Got them in waiting until I get a new set...
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael
>     Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Sent:* Friday, October 22, 2021 2:54 AM
>     *To:* Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
>     <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>>
>     *Cc:* Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca
>     <mailto:Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>>; healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting
>     Instructions
>     I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow
>     out due to increased pressure within the car, especially at
>     speed.? Mounting and fitting the curtains perfectly so that they
>     notch in behind the windshield stantions?just enough to resist
>     this force is not easy and I came up an easy solution:? I mounted
>     a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside upper corner of
>     each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of
>     each?stantion using?a small piece of angle in such a way that they
>     are in their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.? The
>     magnets are more than powerful enough to overcome the pressure
>     from within the car and yet they release when the door is opened.
>
>     I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes
>     predrilled in their?center and they are chrome-plated.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
>     On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>         Norman,
>
>         I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and
>         cut my own glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you
>         have to ?pinch? the glass in the channel at the top and bottom
>         by tapping the divider against the glass where it ends.
>
>         Jean
>
>

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Oct 20 04:01:05 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2021 06:01:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick
In-Reply-To: <02f101d7c4e0$7be543a0$73afcae0$@gmail.com>
References: <f4dc21c9b28a72aafcb7f3f2bb9aef390fa89804@webmail>
 <000201d7c4c3$a42146b0$ec63d410$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <02f101d7c4e0$7be543a0$73afcae0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <210489879.344980778.1634724065127.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

the plastic one just snaps over the ball end of the shifter.  That is what holds it in place.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: simon lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>, gradea1 at charter.net, 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 19 Oct 2021 07:57:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick

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-->Moss shows above item no 31 and 32 a ? inch threaded bolt with the end threads being ground down is for the late BJ8 cars.. also lists a nylon bushing instead of bronze for same cars. So how does the bush stay in place?  Will have to order one to find out. Still hoping for some feedback from the group on the length of the bolts and the unthreaded dimensions Meanwhile, I looked at the archives and my emails are not listed yet. However, those from the group the past 2 days are gibberish all letters and symbols where text should be shown.  Somethings strange in the list operations.  Have not heard back from Mark  BobFrom: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com.
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2021 4:31 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick I?ve got a MkII BT7 so was a bit surprised to find the plastic insert. Or is it nylon? AHSpares showed the brass one which I then assumed was an improved version. Somehow I avoided that particular pitfall, having found enough with my clutch. I did however ? quite inexplicably -  find the correct one in one of my ?boxes of bits?.  The answer to the apparent conundrum? My gearbox is gold in colour which leads me to believe it?s a BMC ?Gold Seal? replacement. I?d thought they only did engines. However, they seem to have done at least one gearbox. I?ve not had to delve far enough into the gearbox to determine if it?s primarily MkII or III. It has the roll pins referred to today. Not the bolts. God, getting that circlip and washer in on top of that spring was a game and a half!Simon From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: 19 October 2021 03:14
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick A small, but important point.  Be sure to use the correct item #116-the bushing for the shifter. The earlier cars used a brass bush, and the BJs used a plastic one. They are not interchangeable. Hank-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys", "rfbegani at gmail.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 18 2021 4:00:56PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift StickBob x 2, The gear shift is not held in place by bolts it is held in place with two roll pins on each side. The roll pins I have measure 0.1755? diameter x 0.59? long. The pins are removed by driving them into the round part of the gear shift lever. BMC part number is AEA558, item #118 on the attached. I just happened to remove a gear shift a couple of days ago. Harold From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2021 2:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Shift Stick  Forwarding to The List on behalf of Bob Begani:

ps. Bob, check your email client for 'unread messages' or similar, List emails are arriving to me out of sequence.


-------- Forwarded Message --------Subject:Healey Shift StickDate:Mon, 18 Oct 2021 17:05:36 -0400From:Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>To:Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>  It seems I am not able to send to the Healey Group so I am writing to you directly because you just wrote to Tom regarding trans shift problems.  Thanks for your help, Bob Begani From:rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 10:01 AM
To:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: FW: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter Listeners: I wrote the letter below to the Group with no response, so maybe it went astray.  Meanwhile, I researched the archives for information and found the following: the thing happened to me w/ my center shift BT7 MK2, except I was stuck inreverse.  Very inconvenient   Shift lever just flopped around, and would notengage anything.The small bottom "ball" of the shift lever had come out of its socket in theremote shift rod that goes into the top of the transmission. you have a Moss catalog, look at page 84, item #31.  It is N/A, but youcan make one.  Pull off the console and the cover of the transmission. Ifmy problem is the same as yours, one of the small "tits" on the end of thebolt that goes into the side of the shift tower has broken off which allowsthe shift lever to go past its normal range and disengage from its socket.This "tit" fits into a slot in the side of the big ball on the shift lever,controlling its side-to-side motion.  If the lever goes too far to one sideof the other, it comes out of the socket and flops around.Get a long bolt w/ the same threads as the broken one, check the overalllength, turn the end down so it will fit into the slot, and you are done. So, I followed those instructions and found the tits were worn and no longer fitting into the groove in the ball. My friend the machinist was going to make new bolts, when we decided to remove the thick lock washers and screwed bolts into the groove of the ball.  With a little adjustment of the length of the bolt into the grove, we got the shifter to go through all the gears.  My question to the Group, is this the finished product?  Or should we make new longer bolts. Does and one know the length, and so on? As I looked on the Moss catalog, I noticed that there should have been a bushing at the bottom of the of the shift stick.  The  into socket the shift stick rides is not too worn, so I am hoping that a new bush and circle clip, bearing grease assembly and so on will get me back on the road.  Let me know if you have any suggestions, Regards, Bob BeganiBJ8 late model From:rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 11:48 AM
To:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 4 speed transmission center shifter I backed the Healey out of the garage into the street, shifted into first to straight out, into neutral and moved the shifter to the left and noticed it when all the way left and that it is loose.  The trans is locked in reverse.  When the engine is off the shifter is sloppy.  So, before I remove the shift stick from the trans,  What should I do?  Bob Begani 67 BJ8 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Oct 24 21:48:32 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 03:48:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
In-Reply-To: <0dea1c60-89e2-4cd4-e497-591b8956919a@comcast.net>
References: <4FC9AF5601BC4844A92910536E009E2E@NormanPC>
 <DM6PR17MB2507E682A7F586BB169DCEE0D1809@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B6YHEg27kyxowgpOG=h2zkVLj3Aa0n0B6M-1VdD_qyqcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB5635CFF17777B53BC2567C98A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B79rm5pCckbZJyF=UNUHkbcZMvXMUeX9uH-sQ2WUF4TzQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR13MB56359028A4AA7914E80D3408A5809@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <0dea1c60-89e2-4cd4-e497-591b8956919a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SA1PR13MB563580503112AF8F934456FEA5839@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Pretty much the same formula for sail boats, or boats in general...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 9:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

I know from experience that airplanes fly because of money. Lots of it.


On 10/22/2021 2:01 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
I never met the man either and if we had I doubt if we would be around to enjoy our Healey...
________________________________
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com><mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 6:52 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com><mailto:ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com><mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca><mailto:Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

Bill--

I have never met Mr. Bernouli and when I said that pressure inside the car "increased" it would indeed have been more accurate to say that pressure outside decreased due to the air molecules' having to travel a greater distance, creating lift..  Fortunately the magnets' force is stronger than the lift and my side curtains no longer pop out at highway speeds.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 1:29 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
Actually the effect you are seeing is the Bernoulli effect. The air outside is moving faster than the air inside, which lowers the pressure outside causing the screens to move out. It?s the same thing that allows airplanes to fly and sailboats to sail into the wind. The 100 doesn?t have a channel to hold the front of the screen so I made a couple tabs of strap ally and mounted them under the top hold down screws. Worked fine until my Moss side curtains fell apart. Got them in waiting until I get a new set...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 2:54 AM
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>>
Cc: Norman Hendry <Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca<mailto:Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca>>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions

I believe that side curtains on roadsters have a tendency to blow out due to increased pressure within the car, especially at speed.  Mounting and fitting the curtains perfectly so that they notch in behind the windshield stantions just enough to resist this force is not easy and I came up an easy solution:  I mounted a 1" square neodymium magnet to the front inside upper corner of each curtain and a similar magnet to the rear face of each stantion using a small piece of angle in such a way that they are in their "attraction" mode when the door is closed.  The magnets are more than powerful enough to overcome the pressure from within the car and yet they release when the door is opened.

I forget now my source but the magnets can be ordered with holes predrilled in their center and they are chrome-plated.

Best--Michael Oritt, BN1

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021 at 8:31 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Norman,

I usually buy my own felt, a fairly thin and dense one, and cut my own glass and make sure it fits rather tight, then you have to ?pinch? the glass in the channel at the top and bottom by tapping the divider against the glass where it ends.



Jean




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From Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca  Mon Oct 25 08:34:23 2021
From: Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca (Norman Hendry)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 08:34:23 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Sidescreens - Screen Fitting Instructions
Message-ID: <2C1BEA214D264968801DA741B3236507@NormanPC>

Thank you to all that provided a response to my question and although I did not get the answer I was looking for I did get a refresher on the Bernoulli effect 

Norman

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com  Mon Oct 25 09:40:21 2021
From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 15:40:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] PBR Parts Invoice
Message-ID: <BYAPR18MB290467C5F77EE69DA25B16718E839@BYAPR18MB2904.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>

PBR
745 Barnegate Bay St.
Henderson, NV 89052
Phone:  (702) 882-6711
email: jpaynepbr at cox.net
Customer:
Jim Shope
Invoice No.
JS10-25-21
Date:
10/25/2021
Invoice
Description
Qty
List
Discount
Sales Price
Parts
1
Trunion Kit
54.99
7.15
$47.84
2
Hub Seal
9.58
1.25
$8.33
2
Bearing
24.98
3.25
$21.73
1
Bearing
12.49

1.62

$10.87
2
Cork Ring
1.98
0.26
$1.72
8
Bushing
19.92
2.59
$17.33
4
Bush Flanged
5.96
0.77
$5.19
Shipping (Moss Parts Shipping Cost)
$27.99
$4.00
$23.99
NV State Sales Tax
$9.32
Total
$       4.00
$146.33
Discount
$20.89
13%


Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711


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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Oct 25 10:04:18 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 12:04:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PBR Parts Invoice
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR18MB290467C5F77EE69DA25B16718E839@BYAPR18MB2904.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR18MB290467C5F77EE69DA25B16718E839@BYAPR18MB2904.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <963117771.357334152.1635177858763.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

?????  Why are we getting this?
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonas Payne via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 11:40:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PBR Parts Invoice

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	{size:8.5in 11.0in;
	margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
div.WordSection1
	{page:WordSection1;}
-->PBR745 Barnegate Bay St.Henderson, NV 89052Phone:  (702) 882-6711email: jpaynepbr at cox.netCustomer:Jim ShopeInvoice No. JS10-25-21Date:10/25/2021Invoice  
DescriptionQtyListDiscountSales PriceParts1Trunion Kit54.997.15$47.842Hub Seal9.581.25$8.332Bearing24.983.25$21.731Bearing12.49 1.62 $10.872Cork Ring1.980.26$1.728Bushing19.922.59$17.334Bush Flanged5.960.77$5.19
Shipping (Moss Parts Shipping Cost)$27.99$4.00
$23.99NV State Sales Tax$9.32Total$       4.00
$146.33Discount$20.8913%  Jonas PaynePBR Consulting Services, LLC702.882.6711  

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From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com  Mon Oct 25 10:04:57 2021
From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 16:04:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Recall: PBR Parts Invoice
Message-ID: <BYAPR18MB2904EA6D476FF864C8EC7BAC8E839@BYAPR18MB2904.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>

Jonas Payne would like to recall the message, "PBR Parts Invoice".

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Oct 25 13:48:00 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 19:48:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
References: <228055679.377653.1635191280776.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <228055679.377653.1635191280776@mail.yahoo.com>

Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the spiral bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk machine screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for these screws. Also, is there a source for them?Thanks,Gary Hodson
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 25 14:33:57 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 16:33:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
In-Reply-To: <228055679.377653.1635191280776@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <228055679.377653.1635191280776.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <228055679.377653.1635191280776@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2d65324f-3b42-4998-aef2-395ebc46ca0e@earthlink.net>

Gary,

Yes, they have the screws with three on each side, two for the brake 
drum and one for the rear axle.? Phillips flat head screw, zinc plated 
1/4" - 28.

CMZ0408 - 2 per vehicle (1/2" long)
CMZ0414 - 4 per vehicle (1-7/8" long) assuming wire wheels

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 10/25/21 3:48 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the spiral 
> bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk machine 
> screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?
> If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for these 
> screws. Also, is there a source for them?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Oct 25 14:40:44 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 16:40:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
In-Reply-To: <2d65324f-3b42-4998-aef2-395ebc46ca0e@earthlink.net>
References: <228055679.377653.1635191280776.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <228055679.377653.1635191280776@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2d65324f-3b42-4998-aef2-395ebc46ca0e@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8560041a-ddb5-36f7-a5a1-5fe8fff5389b@earthlink.net>

I wish I could read and comprehend the question correctly.? The 100 
parts manual I have does not list the screws for the spiral bevel diff.? 
Just the hypoid.? Sorry.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 10/25/21 4:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Gary,
>
> Yes, they have the screws with three on each side, two for the brake 
> drum and one for the rear axle.? Phillips flat head screw, zinc plated 
> 1/4" - 28.
>
> CMZ0408 - 2 per vehicle (1/2" long)
> CMZ0414 - 4 per vehicle (1-7/8" long) assuming wire wheels
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 10/25/21 3:48 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>> Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the spiral 
>> bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk machine 
>> screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?
>> If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for these 
>> screws. Also, is there a source for them?
>> Thanks,
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Oct 25 16:00:04 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 18:00:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
In-Reply-To: <8560041a-ddb5-36f7-a5a1-5fe8fff5389b@earthlink.net>
References: <228055679.377653.1635191280776.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <228055679.377653.1635191280776@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2d65324f-3b42-4998-aef2-395ebc46ca0e@earthlink.net>
 <8560041a-ddb5-36f7-a5a1-5fe8fff5389b@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+kZfkWEcHRGOss+38tnOu3GG3nbVAO6-QHOQFDhFeTNA@mail.gmail.com>

The spiral bevel (4 bolt) rear axle is all BSF threads. Screws with the
prefix CMZ are UNF thread and are not applicable to the spiral bevel
assembly.
The screws that hold the axle shafts into the hubs are 2K3825 and are 1/4"
BSF threads with countersink slot heads and there is one on each side. They
are listed but not illustrated in the Parts Book.
No screws are specified to secure the drums to the hubs through the axle
flanges although I  have found that there was usually one at least on each
side, again with a slotted head.
These screws were really only installed to hold things together during the
assembly process and really serve no purpose once the splined adaptors are
installed.
I haven't been able to find a source so make my own as required.

M

On Mon., Oct. 25, 2021, 4:41 p.m. Bob Haskell via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I wish I could read and comprehend the question correctly.  The 100
> parts manual I have does not list the screws for the spiral bevel diff.
> Just the hypoid.  Sorry.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 10/25/21 4:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Gary,
> >
> > Yes, they have the screws with three on each side, two for the brake
> > drum and one for the rear axle.  Phillips flat head screw, zinc plated
> > 1/4" - 28.
> >
> > CMZ0408 - 2 per vehicle (1/2" long)
> > CMZ0414 - 4 per vehicle (1-7/8" long) assuming wire wheels
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 10/25/21 3:48 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> >> Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the spiral
> >> bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk machine
> >> screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?
> >> If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for these
> >> screws. Also, is there a source for them?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Gary Hodson
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Oct 25 18:02:43 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 08:02:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLtHEds2T2Kd-JgwG8im24O84dY=zrHT6=7zYovmYs=dA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael -

My experience is to have spring makers in the UK make them up.  There are
several there, and generally they know what they are doing.

Best,

Alan

On Fri, 22 Oct 2021 at 2:26 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> As is so common with "offshore " products I'm having ongoing problems with
> the currently available rear springs, in particular those for the 100.
> It seems that all the usual suspects source these from the same
> manufacturer in India and it is my suspicion that these are made from
> substandard steel.
> Typically leaf springs are made from 5160 steel which is incredibly
> resistant to deformation and fatigue. I don't have facilities to determine
> what steel is used to make these springs but it certainly isn't 5160!!
> Has anyone found a source for rear springs which last more than a few
> years?
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Oct 25 18:09:42 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 00:09:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Rear Springs
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLtHEds2T2Kd-JgwG8im24O84dY=zrHT6=7zYovmYs=dA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LL=6B4rwW0iZ0CCu_jB-iHyFgsG7oz8+vGDk33Cie=JEA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkLtHEds2T2Kd-JgwG8im24O84dY=zrHT6=7zYovmYs=dA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1776650897.666578.1635206982803@mail.yahoo.com>

Try britishclassiccarparts.com


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Monday, October 25, 2021, 8:05 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi Michael -
My experience is to have spring makers in the UK make them up.? There are several there, and generally they know what they are doing.

Best,
Alan
On Fri, 22 Oct 2021 at 2:26 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

As is so common with "offshore " products I'm having ongoing problems with the currently available rear springs, in particular those for the 100.It seems that all the usual suspects source these from the same manufacturer in India and it is my suspicion that these are made from substandard steel.?Typically leaf springs are made from 5160 steel which is incredibly resistant to deformation and fatigue. I don't have facilities to determine what steel is used to make these springs but it certainly isn't 5160!!Has anyone found a source for rear springs which last more than a few years?
M
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 25 18:21:49 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 17:21:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable size
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_k4OCmANcY4utMN0ToVuaXHEmDccFFks901vr-QWKoQQ@mail.gmail.com>

What is the size of the main battery cable from battery to starter?
4mm or 6mm?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Oct 25 18:53:48 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2021 17:53:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cable size
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_k4OCmANcY4utMN0ToVuaXHEmDccFFks901vr-QWKoQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_k4OCmANcY4utMN0ToVuaXHEmDccFFks901vr-QWKoQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BB44455A-085A-4094-9C50-BFF35E1FE4D9@hxcore.ol>

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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 26 07:13:42 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 09:13:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 1 wire alternator
References: <C6018382-8F7E-4B4D-85B4-735A347DFCF3.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C6018382-8F7E-4B4D-85B4-735A347DFCF3@yahoo.com>

Does anyone have any experience with using a one wire alternator conversion in a BJ-8 PH II . And getting all the gauges and charging light to work ?  
The latest problem in a car I?m working on . 
       Thanks . Don 

Sent from my iPhone

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Oct 26 16:12:33 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 18:12:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
Message-ID: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

BJ8     had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS well.  All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.  HL switch is good.  Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip sw-----have power--all works.Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than a reg wire i used.  Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high that it won't allow voltage to pass??   Anyone who has tried to trace that wire will know it is impossible to see the full length since it is encased in wrap.I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power wire from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on.  Of course that won't help me determine what caused it but I'll have lights.  Anyone have any other ideas on cause?Anyone know what gauge wire I should use?

Thankstom
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 16:46:17 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 18:46:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
In-Reply-To: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLbifxQhn33xbh0-RYVjA3KHfCfK-7cML=6amW+hra-8A@mail.gmail.com>

Tom, it is very unusual for a wire to fail, as I'm sure you know.
I would suspect the bullet connections on the dip switch cable where it
joins the main harness.
They are near the overdrive throttle switch as I recall.

M

On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 6:13 p.m. Tom Felts via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> BJ8     had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS
> well.  All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.  HL
> switch is good.  Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip
> sw-----have power--all works.
>
> Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than a reg
> wire i used.  Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high that it
> won't allow voltage to pass??   Anyone who has tried to trace that wire
> will know it is impossible to see the full length since it is encased in
> wrap.
>
> I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power wire
> from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on.  Of course that won't help me
> determine what caused it but I'll have lights.
>
> Anyone have any other ideas on cause?
>
> Anyone know what gauge wire I should use?
>
>
>
> Thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Oct 26 18:59:01 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 00:59:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
Message-ID: <761e46c107e1391dd0807c5b10243742e67c2056@webmail>

The early axle used a BSF screw not the CMZ unified. British Tool
should have them. (photo) Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Haskell via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday October 25 2021 1:41:37PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends

 I wish I could read and comprehend the question correctly. The 100
 parts manual I have does not list the screws for the spiral bevel
diff. 
 Just the hypoid. Sorry.

 Cheers,

 Bob Haskell
 Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 On 10/25/21 4:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
 > Gary,
 >
 > Yes, they have the screws with three on each side, two for the
brake
 > drum and one for the rear axle. Phillips flat head screw, zinc
plated
 > 1/4" - 28.
 >
 > CMZ0408 - 2 per vehicle (1/2" long)
 > CMZ0414 - 4 per vehicle (1-7/8" long) assuming wire wheels
 >
 > Cheers,
 >
 > Bob Haskell
 > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
 >
 > On 10/25/21 3:48 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
 >> Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the
spiral
 >> bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk
machine
 >> screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?
 >> If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for
these
 >> screws. Also, is there a source for them?
 >> Thanks,
 >> Gary Hodson
 >>
 >> _______________________________________________
 >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
 >>
 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1]
 >> http://autox.team.net/archive
 /> >>
 >> Healeys at autox.team.net
 >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 /> >>
 >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
 >>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
 /> >>
 >

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2]
http://autox.team.net/archive
 />
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 />
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net
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Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[2] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 19:31:19 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 09:31:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
In-Reply-To: <761e46c107e1391dd0807c5b10243742e67c2056@webmail>
References: <761e46c107e1391dd0807c5b10243742e67c2056@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKe33kQbv2uZXGNTcWJ1fgGkXme3vXgRJEsVFBaaXySOw@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, very common countersunk 1/4" BSF screw used on old british cars... the
usual suppliers will have them.

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 9:00 AM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The early axle used a BSF screw not the CMZ unified. British Tool should
> have them. (photo) Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Bob Haskell via Healeys"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday October 25 2021 1:41:37PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] spiral bevel rear ends
>
> I wish I could read and comprehend the question correctly.  The 100
> parts manual I have does not list the screws for the spiral bevel diff.
> Just the hypoid.  Sorry.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 10/25/21 4:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Gary,
> >
> > Yes, they have the screws with three on each side, two for the brake
> > drum and one for the rear axle.  Phillips flat head screw, zinc plated
> > 1/4" - 28.
> >
> > CMZ0408 - 2 per vehicle (1/2" long)
> > CMZ0414 - 4 per vehicle (1-7/8" long) assuming wire wheels
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 10/25/21 3:48 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> >> Am I correct in assuming the BN1's from 138031-221535 with the spiral
> >> bevel rear ends did not have/use the (2) recessed countersunk machine
> >> screws to clamp the rear axle to the rear hub?
> >> If I am incorrect, what is the part number & specifications for these
> >> screws. Also, is there a source for them?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Gary Hodson
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> /> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: <http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr>
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> /> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> <http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> /> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> /> >>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net%3Cbr>
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> /> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: <http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr>
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> />
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> <http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> />
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net
> />
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net%3Cbr>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 20:15:20 2021
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 22:15:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator
fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I
am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7
but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now)
to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just
the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of
course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.

Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or
both sides?

After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are
the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being
gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.
Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning
up things?

I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.

Thanks as always,

Fred
66BJ8
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 20:23:56 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 22:23:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>

We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt engine BT7
engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.
Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.
With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on each
side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a grunt but
possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.

M

On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator
> fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I
> am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7
> but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now)
> to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just
> the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of
> course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
> place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
> additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.
>
> Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or
> both sides?
>
> After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are
> the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being
> gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.
> Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning
> up things?
>
> I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
> correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
> Thanks as always,
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 20:31:25 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 10:31:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJm7zFNgdGYcTLt3sMJ8hQO=h0vhcBT=eNn4z_M5-ad3w@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Fred -

I'd say having a couple moderatly strong people to lift it out is probably
enough, main thing is to slide it up on top of the studs, although I am
able to do it myself but the six cyl is a bear.

In terms of head gasket, there's a couple of approaches:

One is to use the old standard copper gasket and then spray both sides with
a thin layer of spray hylomar or permatex copper spray a gasket.

The other option is to get the composite gasket from SC parts, which is a
really nice unit, as long as your deck and head aren't too far out, the
composite gasket is superior and will save you from having to shave things
flat, which the copper gasket prefers and the steel gaskets need.
Personally I'm not a fan of surfacing the head or deck... so the composite
gaskets that SC parts sell is a really nice option.  they are
beautifully made.

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1953-1968/engine/cylinder-head-bn4-from-48863-bn6-bn7-bt7-bj7-and-bj8/cylinder-head-gasket-1328.html

Best,

Alan


>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 26 23:25:46 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 22:25:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMTFuYxxgb0XBgefB2t-6g5Pc9W9eVrOqBNhDAMGNACyw@mail.gmail.com>

A 6 cylinder head weighs 91 lbs.  I have built many race engines over the
years and never used any kind of sealant. I always used Payen head gaskets.

On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 7:15 PM Fred Wescoe via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator
> fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I
> am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7
> but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now)
> to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just
> the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of
> course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
> place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
> additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.
>
> Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or
> both sides?
>
> After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are
> the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being
> gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.
> Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning
> up things?
>
> I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
> correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
> Thanks as always,
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Oct 27 06:23:19 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 08:23:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>

Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.  We had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by MOSS.  As the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the entire length of the block/head seam, and coming up through several of the head studs.  This was not a localized leak and I would describe it as complete failure of the gasket as far as the coolant passages are concerned.  There was no evidence of oil leakage, but I think I am correct in saying that all but one of the oil passages between the head and block are for drainage back down to the sump and thus not under pressure.  There was no water/steam in the exhaust and the car fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the cylinders after we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was leaking.  However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.  FYI, I use a correct 7 lb rad cap.

 

On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem.  The gasket looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the failure.  This was a complete rebuild so both the head and the block faces were machined.

 

I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick service).  My understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that A-H Spares has these Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, including MOSS.  It is pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.  Neither Mike nor I could discern any visible difference between the ?regular? head gasket and the Premium one (except for the part number), although we did not measure the thickness and the material that is sandwiched between the copper/steel outer layers may well be a different material or thickness.

 

There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have never seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is all anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing for 40 years and never had a problem?).  Neither Mike nor I have ever used a head gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed it we did not apply any.  Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally responded to my request to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response time!).  He has apparently rebuild many Healey engines and always uses a gasket dressing.  Take what you want from that.  He had no explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike and I had not already discussed.

 

The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued.  I plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start the engine, perhaps tomorrow.  I?d be grateful if all listers could keep their fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes will compensate for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for Healeys.

 

BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that removed the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be cheesed as being referred to as elderly!  I had lifted the head with manifolds once before so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and I am unfamiliar with the details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there are any added complications.  I suggest if you lift it with the manifolds, rest the head on top of the studs when you lift it and remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and do the same in reverse (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you would have to lift the head very high when removing if you left them on.  Frankly, use of an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less exciting) if you have access to one.

 

Stay tuned!  Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head weight

 

We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt engine BT7 engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.

Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.

With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on each side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a grunt but possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.

 

M

 

On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Listers,

 

It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7 but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now) to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the actual weight of just the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.  

 

Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or both sides?

 

After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.  Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning up things? 

 

I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.

 

Thanks as always,

 

Fred

66BJ8

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Oct 27 06:26:06 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 08:26:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+JG+12EPmxaVu3U5ZCjHqGXeY_ponMjfy_bRd4f8P0nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkJm7zFNgdGYcTLt3sMJ8hQO=h0vhcBT=eNn4z_M5-ad3w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+JG+12EPmxaVu3U5ZCjHqGXeY_ponMjfy_bRd4f8P0nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004001d7cb2d$d132c050$739840f0$@sympatico.ca>

? my next option if the ?Premium? gasket fails????

 

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: October 26, 2021 10:37 PM
To: Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fwd: [Healeys] Head weight

 

These look interesting. May be the answer to what we are dealing with.

 

M

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Date: Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:32 p.m.
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head weight
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com <mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com> >
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >

 

Hi Fred -

 

I'd say having a couple moderatly strong people to lift it out is probably enough, main thing is to slide it up on top of the studs, although I am able to do it myself but the six cyl is a bear.

In terms of head gasket, there's a couple of approaches:  

One is to use the old standard copper gasket and then spray both sides with a thin layer of spray hylomar or permatex copper spray a gasket.  

The other option is to get the composite gasket from SC parts, which is a really nice unit, as long as your deck and head aren't too far out, the composite gasket is superior and will save you from having to shave things flat, which the copper gasket prefers and the steel gaskets need.  Personally I'm not a fan of surfacing the head or deck... so the composite gaskets that SC parts sell is a really nice option.  they are beautifully made.

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1953-1968/engine/cylinder-head-bn4-from-48863-bn6-bn7-bt7-bj7-and-bj8/cylinder-head-gasket-1328.html

Best,

Alan

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Oct 27 06:30:25 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 08:30:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+ButE2-7Dqz79RBm--imJ5B+cwmmU8xWMctuODw8khzg@mail.gmail.com>

"my 30 something friend Dan might be cheesed as being referred to as
elderly!" .... Sorry Ryan ??

On Wed., Oct. 27, 2021, 8:23 a.m. , <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.  We
> had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by MOSS.  As
> the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the entire length of
> the block/head seam, and coming up through several of the head studs.  This
> was not a localized leak and I would describe it as complete failure of the
> gasket as far as the coolant passages are concerned.  There was no evidence
> of oil leakage, but I think I am correct in saying that all but one of the
> oil passages between the head and block are for drainage back down to the
> sump and thus not under pressure.  There was no water/steam in the exhaust
> and the car fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the
> cylinders after we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was
> leaking.  However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min
> total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.  FYI, I use a correct 7 lb rad
> cap.
>
>
>
> On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem.  The gasket
> looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the failure.  This was a
> complete rebuild so both the head and the block faces were machined.
>
>
>
> I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via
> Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick service).  My
> understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that A-H Spares has these
> Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, including MOSS.  It is
> pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.  Neither Mike nor I could
> discern any visible difference between the ?regular? head gasket and the
> Premium one (except for the part number), although we did not measure the
> thickness and the material that is sandwiched between the copper/steel
> outer layers may well be a different material or thickness.
>
>
>
> There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have never
> seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is all
> anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing for 40
> years and never had a problem?).  Neither Mike nor I have ever used a head
> gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed it we did not
> apply any.  Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally responded to my request
> to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response time!).  He has apparently
> rebuild many Healey engines and always uses a gasket dressing.  Take what
> you want from that.  He had no explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike
> and I had not already discussed.
>
>
>
> The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued.  I
> plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start the
> engine, perhaps tomorrow.  I?d be grateful if all listers could keep their
> fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes will compensate
> for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for Healeys.
>
>
>
> BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that removed
> the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be cheesed as being
> referred to as elderly!  I had lifted the head with manifolds once before
> so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and I am unfamiliar with the
> details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there are any added complications.
> I suggest if you lift it with the manifolds, rest the head on top of the
> studs when you lift it and remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and
> do the same in reverse (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you
> would have to lift the head very high when removing if you left them on.
> Frankly, use of an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less
> exciting) if you have access to one.
>
>
>
> Stay tuned!  Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
> *To:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Head weight
>
>
>
> We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt engine BT7
> engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.
>
> Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.
>
> With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on each
> side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a grunt but
> possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator
> fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I
> am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7
> but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now)
> to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just
> the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of
> course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
> place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
> additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.
>
>
>
> Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or
> both sides?
>
>
>
> After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are
> the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being
> gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.
> Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning
> up things?
>
>
>
> I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
> correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks as always,
>
>
>
> Fred
>
> 66BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Oct 27 07:27:23 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 07:27:23 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <1100da57-4174-e024-f218-0a3b5bb6d0b7@porterscustom.com>

Lubbock Gasket and supply? Can make you a gasket of similar or improved 
design..1-806-763-2801??? DaveP

On 10/27/2021 6:23 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.? 
> We had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by 
> MOSS.? As the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the 
> entire length of the block/head seam, and coming up through several of 
> the head studs.? This was not a localized leak and I would describe it 
> as complete failure of the gasket as far as the coolant passages are 
> concerned.? There was no evidence of oil leakage, but I think I am 
> correct in saying that all but one of the oil passages between the 
> head and block are for drainage back down to the sump and thus not 
> under pressure.? There was no water/steam in the exhaust and the car 
> fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the cylinders after 
> we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was leaking.? 
> However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min 
> total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.? FYI, I use a correct 7 lb 
> rad cap.
>
> On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem. The 
> gasket looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the 
> failure.? This was a complete rebuild so both the head and the block 
> faces were machined.
>
> I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via 
> Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick 
> service).? My understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that 
> A-H Spares has these Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, 
> including MOSS. It is pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.? 
> Neither Mike nor I could discern any visible difference between the 
> ?regular? head gasket and the Premium one (except for the part 
> number), although we did not measure the thickness and the material 
> that is sandwiched between the copper/steel outer layers may well be a 
> different material or thickness.
>
> There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have 
> never seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is 
> all anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing 
> for 40 years and never had a problem?).? Neither Mike nor I have ever 
> used a head gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed 
> it we did not apply any.? Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally 
> responded to my request to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response 
> time!).? He has apparently rebuild many Healey engines and always uses 
> a gasket dressing.? Take what you want from that.? He had no 
> explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike and I had not already 
> discussed.
>
> The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued. 
> ?I plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start 
> the engine, perhaps tomorrow.? I?d be grateful if all listers could 
> keep their fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes 
> will compensate for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for 
> Healeys.
>
> BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that 
> removed the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be 
> cheesed as being referred to as elderly!? I had lifted the head with 
> manifolds once before so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and 
> I am unfamiliar with the details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there 
> are any added complications.? I suggest if you lift it with the 
> manifolds, rest the head on top of the studs when you lift it and 
> remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and do the same in reverse 
> (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you would have to lift 
> the head very high when removing if you left them on.? Frankly, use of 
> an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less exciting) if you 
> have access to one.
>
> Stay tuned!? Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> Salter
> *Sent:* October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
> *To:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Head weight
>
> We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt?engine 
> BT7 engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.
>
> Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.
>
> With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on 
> each side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a 
> grunt but possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.
>
> M
>
> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Listers,
>
>     It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the
>     radiator fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace
>     the head gasket.? I am going to leave the engine in the car.? I
>     have pulled the head of my BJ7 but that was many years ago.? I
>     will need help physically (I'm older now) to pull the BJ8 head.?
>     Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just the head is?? I
>     need to determine how many people I need?to help me.? Of course, I
>     will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
>     place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
>     additional issues to deal with. Hopefully not but I will check.
>
>     Do I use sealant?on the new head gasket and if so what type?? ?One
>     side or both sides?
>
>     After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality,
>     what are the thoughts about sources for a good quality head
>     gasket, without being gouged.? Entering the cold months, I have
>     plenty of time to do this right.? Is there anything I should be on
>     the?lookout for, or check before buttoning up things?
>
>     I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
>     correctly.? So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
>     Thanks as always,
>
>     Fred
>
>     66BJ8
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Oct 27 09:03:15 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 23:03:15 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLbifxQhn33xbh0-RYVjA3KHfCfK-7cML=6amW+hra-8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <CAB3i7LLbifxQhn33xbh0-RYVjA3KHfCfK-7cML=6amW+hra-8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL=Sm506YEfgZ2L1gnQxk+wuB_i-Mhs8XgARTkNbQuUng@mail.gmail.com>

One time I  had the main ignition - coil wire fail in my BJ8 harness...
much smoke was released and I was not able to put the smoke back in the
wire.  turned off the battery switch, disconnected it, then ran a separate
main wire , turned switch back on and drove home...

!!

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Tom, it is very unusual for a wire to fail, as I'm sure you know.
> I would suspect the bullet connections on the dip switch cable where it
> joins the main harness.
> They are near the overdrive throttle switch as I recall.
>
> M
>
> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 6:13 p.m. Tom Felts via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> BJ8     had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS
>> well.  All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.  HL
>> switch is good.  Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip
>> sw-----have power--all works.
>>
>> Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than a
>> reg wire i used.  Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high that
>> it won't allow voltage to pass??   Anyone who has tried to trace that wire
>> will know it is impossible to see the full length since it is encased in
>> wrap.
>>
>> I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power
>> wire from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on.  Of course that won't help
>> me determine what caused it but I'll have lights.
>>
>> Anyone have any other ideas on cause?
>>
>> Anyone know what gauge wire I should use?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>> tom
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Oct 27 09:27:29 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 08:27:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <d9299e52-adaf-a39a-a36f-76af63237c4f@comcast.net>

The late, great Norman Nock used to recommend a lacquer-like paste 
called 'Wellseal,' esp. for the 4-cyl engines known for leaking between 
the #2 and #3 cylinders (supposedly, not enough head studs in that 
area). I've only put a few hundred miles on my BN2 since rebuild--with 
Wellseal--but, so far, no sign of a leak.

I 'heard from the grapevine' that Payen off-shored manufacturing to 
(guess where) and quality suffered. I had most of a Payen set I'd bought 
decades ago for my BJ8 and didn't use for whatever reason. I used the 
head gasket on my latest--and hopefully last--overhaul a few years ago; 
6K miles and still good. If I needed to rebuild again I'd probably 
spring for the composite-metal gasket from DWM; supposedly reusable for 
up the 3 times.

Bob


On 10/27/2021 5:23 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.? 
> We had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by 
> MOSS.? As the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the 
> entire length of the block/head seam, and coming up through several of 
> the head studs.? This was not a localized leak and I would describe it 
> as complete failure of the gasket as far as the coolant passages are 
> concerned.? There was no evidence of oil leakage, but I think I am 
> correct in saying that all but one of the oil passages between the 
> head and block are for drainage back down to the sump and thus not 
> under pressure.? There was no water/steam in the exhaust and the car 
> fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the cylinders after 
> we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was leaking.? 
> However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min 
> total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.? FYI, I use a correct 7 lb 
> rad cap.
>
> On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem. The 
> gasket looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the 
> failure.? This was a complete rebuild so both the head and the block 
> faces were machined.
>
> I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via 
> Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick 
> service).? My understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that 
> A-H Spares has these Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, 
> including MOSS. It is pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.? 
> Neither Mike nor I could discern any visible difference between the 
> ?regular? head gasket and the Premium one (except for the part 
> number), although we did not measure the thickness and the material 
> that is sandwiched between the copper/steel outer layers may well be a 
> different material or thickness.
>
> There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have 
> never seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is 
> all anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing 
> for 40 years and never had a problem?).? Neither Mike nor I have ever 
> used a head gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed 
> it we did not apply any.? Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally 
> responded to my request to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response 
> time!).? He has apparently rebuild many Healey engines and always uses 
> a gasket dressing.? Take what you want from that.? He had no 
> explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike and I had not already 
> discussed.
>
> The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued. 
> ?I plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start 
> the engine, perhaps tomorrow.? I?d be grateful if all listers could 
> keep their fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes 
> will compensate for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for 
> Healeys.
>
> BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that 
> removed the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be 
> cheesed as being referred to as elderly!? I had lifted the head with 
> manifolds once before so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and 
> I am unfamiliar with the details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there 
> are any added complications.? I suggest if you lift it with the 
> manifolds, rest the head on top of the studs when you lift it and 
> remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and do the same in reverse 
> (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you would have to lift 
> the head very high when removing if you left them on.? Frankly, use of 
> an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less exciting) if you 
> have access to one.
>
> Stay tuned!? Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> Salter
> *Sent:* October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
> *To:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Head weight
>
> We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt?engine 
> BT7 engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.
>
> Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.
>
> With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on 
> each side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a 
> grunt but possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.
>
> M
>
> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Listers,
>
>     It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the
>     radiator fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace
>     the head gasket.? I am going to leave the engine in the car.? I
>     have pulled the head of my BJ7 but that was many years ago.? I
>     will need help physically (I'm older now) to pull the BJ8 head.?
>     Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just the head is?? I
>     need to determine how many people I need?to help me.? Of course, I
>     will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
>     place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
>     additional issues to deal with. Hopefully not but I will check.
>
>     Do I use sealant?on the new head gasket and if so what type?? ?One
>     side or both sides?
>
>     After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality,
>     what are the thoughts about sources for a good quality head
>     gasket, without being gouged.? Entering the cold months, I have
>     plenty of time to do this right.? Is there anything I should be on
>     the?lookout for, or check before buttoning up things?
>
>     I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
>     correctly.? So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
>     Thanks as always,
>
>     Fred
>
>     66BJ8
>
>
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Wed Oct 27 10:44:12 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 12:44:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkL=Sm506YEfgZ2L1gnQxk+wuB_i-Mhs8XgARTkNbQuUng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <CAB3i7LLbifxQhn33xbh0-RYVjA3KHfCfK-7cML=6amW+hra-8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkL=Sm506YEfgZ2L1gnQxk+wuB_i-Mhs8XgARTkNbQuUng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <586565232.362121284.1635353052901.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I went ahead and ran a new wire--used 16 gauge-------I did check the bullet connections to the old wire and they were good---I cannot understand why a wire would suddenly stop conveying current---but since I found nothing else---that must have been the problem.works like a charm now with the new wire.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>, healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:03:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical question

One time I  had the main ignition - coil wire fail in my BJ8 harness... much smoke was released and I was not able to put the smoke back in the wire.  turned off the battery switch, disconnected it, then ran a separate main wire , turned switch back on and drove home...
!!
On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Tom, it is very unusual for a wire to fail, as I'm sure you know.I would suspect the bullet connections on the dip switch cable where it joins the main harness.They are near the overdrive throttle switch as I recall.
M
On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 6:13 p.m. Tom Felts via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
BJ8     had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS well.  All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.  HL switch is good.  Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip sw-----have power--all works.
Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than a reg wire i used.  Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high that it won't allow voltage to pass??   Anyone who has tried to trace that wire will know it is impossible to see the full length since it is encased in wrap.
I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power wire from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on.  Of course that won't help me determine what caused it but I'll have lights. 
Anyone have any other ideas on cause?
Anyone know what gauge wire I should use?


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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Oct 27 11:04:03 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 17:04:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
Message-ID: <006bfc9abc2f0cb826eebaacb7b466dbffd268b7@webmail>

Tom-for that wire replacement, I would use a 14GA. wire-headlights
have large amp draw. The high resistance you measured usually means
poor (corroded) connection, frayed wire or loose. If harness is
healthy, I would check the switch terminals for loose or corroded at
both the panel and for sure the dip on the floor (it gets crud from
road). That path also has two butt connectors that could be loose or
corroded. After cleaning, be sure to push the bullets well into the
rubber sleeve. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Tom Felts via
Healeys" 
To: "Alan Seigrist"
Cc: "healeys"
Sent: Wednesday October 27 2021 9:45:21AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical question

 I went ahead and ran a new wire--used 16 gauge-------I did check the
bullet connections to the old wire and they were good---I cannot
understand why a wire would suddenly stop conveying current---but
since I found nothing else---that must have been the problem. 
 works like a charm now with the new wire. 
 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Alan Seigrist 
 To: Michael Salter 
 Cc: Tom Felts , healeys 
 Sent: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:03:15 -0400 (EDT)
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical question

 One time I had the main ignition - coil wire fail in my BJ8
harness... much smoke was released and I was not able to put the smoke
back in the wire. turned off the battery switch, disconnected it, then
ran a separate main wire , turned switch back on and drove home... 
 !!  
  On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter via Healeys  wrote:
  Tom, it is very unusual for a wire to fail, as I'm sure you know. I
would suspect the bullet connections on the dip switch cable where it
joins the main harness. They are near the overdrive throttle switch as
I recall. 
 M  
 On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 6:13 p.m. Tom Felts via Healeys,  wrote:
   BJ8 had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS
well. All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.
HL switch is good. Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip
sw-----have power--all works. 
 Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than
a reg wire i used. Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high
that it won't allow voltage to pass?? Anyone who has tried to trace
that wire will know it is impossible to see the full length since it
is encased in wrap. 
 I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power
wire from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on. Of course that won't
help me determine what caused it but I'll have lights.  
 Anyone have any other ideas on cause? 
 Anyone know what gauge wire I should use? 

 Thanks tom  _______________________________________________

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From rmemler at gmail.com  Thu Oct 28 14:29:36 2021
From: rmemler at gmail.com (Robert Memler)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2021 16:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
Message-ID: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>

I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they would
be willing to sell?

Thanks, Bob Memler
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Fri Oct 29 09:10:16 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 09:10:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>

pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms 
the engine. IMHO? I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54

On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they 
> would be willing to sell?
>
> Thanks, Bob Memler
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Oct 27 14:13:25 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 16:13:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Head weight
In-Reply-To: <d9299e52-adaf-a39a-a36f-76af63237c4f@comcast.net>
References: <CAPAC+V7aU9_28yXa1wHf9sKjUJPWg-HkTDZiHHBDUwEWZRQntA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKuy1bxnvxyBjhGQV0Y9onab9gMfNCD9Z+8dKfU+Ek+ew@mail.gmail.com>
 <003601d7cb2d$6d8cf480$48a6dd80$@sympatico.ca>
 <d9299e52-adaf-a39a-a36f-76af63237c4f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6dHA2Mud-5HtD4E5kdTpQqAJZtAnZwFOVZPvn2xMnjXQ@mail.gmail.com>

When I bought the DW "Fast  Street" AL head for my 100 about 17 years ago I
installed it using the recommended steel sandwich head gasket and except
for some very small weeping between 2 and 3 when starting from cold I have
not had an issue.  In fact I can't remember when I last torqued the head,
if ever!  I keep a spare on top of my gas tank under the Armacord--guess I
should dust it off.

I used the Payen composite gaskets on the MG engine of my Elva Courier,
spraying a light coat of copper on both sides before installing.  I never
had a blown gasket, leaking, etc, etc. with them.  Hope their quality does
not suffer.

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 11:28 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> The late, great Norman Nock used to recommend a lacquer-like paste called
> 'Wellseal,' esp. for the 4-cyl engines known for leaking between the #2 and
> #3 cylinders (supposedly, not enough head studs in that area). I've only
> put a few hundred miles on my BN2 since rebuild--with Wellseal--but, so
> far, no sign of a leak.
>
> I 'heard from the grapevine' that Payen off-shored manufacturing to (guess
> where) and quality suffered. I had most of a Payen set I'd bought decades
> ago for my BJ8 and didn't use for whatever reason. I used the head gasket
> on my latest--and hopefully last--overhaul a few years ago; 6K miles and
> still good. If I needed to rebuild again I'd probably spring for the
> composite-metal gasket from DWM; supposedly reusable for up the 3 times.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 10/27/2021 5:23 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.  We
> had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by MOSS.  As
> the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the entire length of
> the block/head seam, and coming up through several of the head studs.  This
> was not a localized leak and I would describe it as complete failure of the
> gasket as far as the coolant passages are concerned.  There was no evidence
> of oil leakage, but I think I am correct in saying that all but one of the
> oil passages between the head and block are for drainage back down to the
> sump and thus not under pressure.  There was no water/steam in the exhaust
> and the car fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the
> cylinders after we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was
> leaking.  However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min
> total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.  FYI, I use a correct 7 lb rad
> cap.
>
>
>
> On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem.  The gasket
> looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the failure.  This was a
> complete rebuild so both the head and the block faces were machined.
>
>
>
> I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via
> Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick service).  My
> understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that A-H Spares has these
> Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, including MOSS.  It is
> pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.  Neither Mike nor I could
> discern any visible difference between the ?regular? head gasket and the
> Premium one (except for the part number), although we did not measure the
> thickness and the material that is sandwiched between the copper/steel
> outer layers may well be a different material or thickness.
>
>
>
> There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have never
> seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is all
> anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing for 40
> years and never had a problem?).  Neither Mike nor I have ever used a head
> gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed it we did not
> apply any.  Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally responded to my request
> to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response time!).  He has apparently
> rebuild many Healey engines and always uses a gasket dressing.  Take what
> you want from that.  He had no explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike
> and I had not already discussed.
>
>
>
> The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued.  I
> plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start the
> engine, perhaps tomorrow.  I?d be grateful if all listers could keep their
> fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes will compensate
> for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for Healeys.
>
>
>
> BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that removed
> the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be cheesed as being
> referred to as elderly!  I had lifted the head with manifolds once before
> so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and I am unfamiliar with the
> details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there are any added complications.
> I suggest if you lift it with the manifolds, rest the head on top of the
> studs when you lift it and remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and
> do the same in reverse (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you
> would have to lift the head very high when removing if you left them on.
> Frankly, use of an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less
> exciting) if you have access to one.
>
>
>
> Stay tuned!  Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
> *To:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Head weight
>
>
>
> We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt engine BT7
> engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.
>
> Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.
>
> With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on each
> side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a grunt but
> possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator
> fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I
> am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7
> but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now)
> to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the *actual weight* of just
> the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of
> course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then
> place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have
> additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.
>
>
>
> Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or
> both sides?
>
>
>
> After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are
> the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being
> gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.
> Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning
> up things?
>
>
>
> I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and
> correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks as always,
>
>
>
> Fred
>
> 66BJ8
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 29 09:33:55 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 08:33:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <57940AB8B263453A9CD9597BFFC44F69@DavidNockHP>

Yes I have one that we have had magged and machined ready to install.  Crank is turned to .020 / .020

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Robert Memler via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2021 1:29 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft

I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell? 

Thanks, Bob Memler


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Oct 29 10:33:35 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 16:33:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Head Weight
References: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612@mail.yahoo.com>

The question regarding the head weight apparently struck a nerve so I took the bathroom scale (rarely used) to the garage and gently set a BJ8 head with valves, springs and intake studs in place, on the scale.? 83 pounds.P?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 29 11:08:28 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 10:08:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Head Weight
In-Reply-To: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <933078570.1484041.1635525215612@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <caaa3257-4f00-aeca-c907-c91c3d6bd8bd@comcast.net>

But what is its BMI? That's what's important.


On 10/29/2021 9:33 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
> The question regarding the head weight apparently struck a nerve so I 
> took the bathroom scale (rarely used) to the garage and gently set a 
> BJ8 head with valves, springs and intake studs in place, on the 
> scale.? 83 pounds.
> P
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Oct 28 01:10:04 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2021 15:10:04 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question
In-Reply-To: <586565232.362121284.1635353052901.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <668977810.360468553.1635286353369.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <CAB3i7LLbifxQhn33xbh0-RYVjA3KHfCfK-7cML=6amW+hra-8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkL=Sm506YEfgZ2L1gnQxk+wuB_i-Mhs8XgARTkNbQuUng@mail.gmail.com>
 <586565232.362121284.1635353052901.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+yddGGVHf=pWCgufPGATN6p3fMc2C=cCtnXgXxOKmUsw@mail.gmail.com>

Tom -

You're lucky.  You avoided releasing smoke like I did.

This wire, like the ignition wire, carries alot of current... it probably
corroded or melted a little bit in the harness somewhere and grounded out.

This is why it's a good idea, instead, to use this wire to power a relay
with a direct power connection to the fusebox.

Best Regards,

Alan

On Thu, Oct 28, 2021 at 12:44 AM Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> I went ahead and ran a new wire--used 16 gauge-------I did check the
> bullet connections to the old wire and they were good---I cannot understand
> why a wire would suddenly stop conveying current---but since I found
> nothing else---that must have been the problem.
>
> works like a charm now with the new wire.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>, healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:03:15 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrical question
>
> One time I  had the main ignition - coil wire fail in my BJ8 harness...
> much smoke was released and I was not able to put the smoke back in the
> wire.  turned off the battery switch, disconnected it, then ran a separate
> main wire , turned switch back on and drove home...
>
> !!
>
> On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 6:47 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Tom, it is very unusual for a wire to fail, as I'm sure you know.
>> I would suspect the bullet connections on the dip switch cable where it
>> joins the main harness.
>> They are near the overdrive throttle switch as I recall.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 6:13 p.m. Tom Felts via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> BJ8     had power from the blue HL sw wire to the dip switch--all WAS
>>> well.  All of a sudden no power thru the hL sw blue wire to the dip sw.  HL
>>> switch is good.  Ran a wire directly from the HL switch to the dip
>>> sw-----have power--all works.
>>>
>>> Ohms's reading seems quite a bit higher thru that original wire than a
>>> reg wire i used.  Guess it is possible that the resistance is so high that
>>> it won't allow voltage to pass??   Anyone who has tried to trace that wire
>>> will know it is impossible to see the full length since it is encased in
>>> wrap.
>>>
>>> I'm down to disconnecting the original wire and running another power
>>> wire from the HL sw to the dip sw and moving on.  Of course that won't help
>>> me determine what caused it but I'll have lights.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any other ideas on cause?
>>>
>>> Anyone know what gauge wire I should use?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> tom
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 29 13:35:19 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 12:35:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>

OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that 
they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does 
the crank alone do it?

Bob

On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>
> pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms 
> the engine. IMHO? I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>
> On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they 
>> would be willing to sell?
>>
>> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>


From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Fri Oct 29 14:47:51 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 16:47:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Premium Head Gasket Result; was "Head weight"
Message-ID: <003d01d7cd06$3debf250$b9c3d6f0$@sympatico.ca>

Hi all, just to update this thread, I did get everything back together yesterday after replacing the head gasket and started it up.  I did a few more warm/cool cycles before letting it warm up to 160 degrees (remember I had already gone through the initial new engine start up procedure a few weeks ago, which is when the new regular gasket failed). I am happy to report there were no leaks.  I drove it around the block and still no leaks.  I then went for a short drive, 8? miles, and still no leaks.  It was a cool day so engine temp never exceeded 160.  

 

So I am cautiously optimistic.  After such an unexpected failure with the regular head gasket, I am still nervous and it will take few hundred miles and more aggressive driving (once the break-in period is over), before I am confident, but so far, so good.

 

So what to make of all this?  The few people I have spoken with have had success with the regular head gasket that comes in the head set.  However, mine failed completely with respect to the coolant sealing.  Mike and I changed nothing when we lifted the head and installed the ?Premium? Gasket.  No gasket dressing , just cleaned everything up, installed the new gasket and put the head back on all according to normal practice.  The jury is still out until there quite a few more miles on it, but preliminary blame would appear to be the regular gasket.

 

The other possibility is the positive effect from the collective psychic power of the list, assuming that at least some of you crossed your fingers as requested yesterday ? many thanks!

 

Winter is closing in here (Ontario, CA), but I will drive until the first road salt goes down, hoping to get a few hundred miles on it this Fall so I can re-torque and do any detail adjustments over the winter.  I will post results, positive or negative, after the break-in period is over.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt via Healeys
Sent: October 27, 2021 4:13 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head weight

 

When I bought the DW "Fast  Street" AL head for my 100 about 17 years ago I installed it using the recommended steel sandwich head gasket and except for some very small weeping between 2 and 3 when starting from cold I have not had an issue.  In fact I can't remember when I last torqued the head, if ever!  I keep a spare on top of my gas tank under the Armacord--guess I should dust it off.

 

I used the Payen composite gaskets on the MG engine of my Elva Courier, spraying a light coat of copper on both sides before installing.  I never had a blown gasket, leaking, etc, etc. with them.  Hope their quality does not suffer.

 

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 11:28 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

The late, great Norman Nock used to recommend a lacquer-like paste called 'Wellseal,' esp. for the 4-cyl engines known for leaking between the #2 and #3 cylinders (supposedly, not enough head studs in that area). I've only put a few hundred miles on my BN2 since rebuild--with Wellseal--but, so far, no sign of a leak.

I 'heard from the grapevine' that Payen off-shored manufacturing to (guess where) and quality suffered. I had most of a Payen set I'd bought decades ago for my BJ8 and didn't use for whatever reason. I used the head gasket on my latest--and hopefully last--overhaul a few years ago; 6K miles and still good. If I needed to rebuild again I'd probably spring for the composite-metal gasket from DWM; supposedly reusable for up the 3 times.

Bob



On 10/27/2021 5:23 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:

Fred, I can add to Mike?s comment as it is my BT7 we were working on.  We had used the head gasket that came with the head set supplied by MOSS.  As the engine warmed up I had coolant leaking out almost the entire length of the block/head seam, and coming up through several of the head studs.  This was not a localized leak and I would describe it as complete failure of the gasket as far as the coolant passages are concerned.  There was no evidence of oil leakage, but I think I am correct in saying that all but one of the oil passages between the head and block are for drainage back down to the sump and thus not under pressure.  There was no water/steam in the exhaust and the car fired evenly (it sounded great!) and no coolant in the cylinders after we removed the head, so it looks like just the coolant was leaking.  However remember the motor had been running for only about 15 min total over several gentle warm/cool cycles.  FYI, I use a correct 7 lb rad cap.

 

On removing the head we could find no evidence of any problem.  The gasket looked fine, so we really do not know the cause of the failure.  This was a complete rebuild so both the head and the block faces were machined.

 

I ordered a ?Premium? head gasket which was supplied by A-H Spares via Healey Autofarm here in Ontario (thanks Amanda for the quick service).  My understanding (i.e., I don?t know for a fact) is that A-H Spares has these Premium gaskets made and supplies them to others, including MOSS.  It is pricey and the prices vary, so shop around.  Neither Mike nor I could discern any visible difference between the ?regular? head gasket and the Premium one (except for the part number), although we did not measure the thickness and the material that is sandwiched between the copper/steel outer layers may well be a different material or thickness.

 

There is much debate about using a gasket dressing or not and I have never seen any actual evidence that using it helps the sealing; it is all anecdotal evidence (e.g., ?I have/have not used a head dressing for 40 years and never had a problem?).  Neither Mike nor I have ever used a head gasket dressing in other rebuilds so although we discussed it we did not apply any.  Curiously, the MOSS tech expert finally responded to my request to discuss the issue (about a 3 week response time!).  He has apparently rebuild many Healey engines and always uses a gasket dressing.  Take what you want from that.  He had no explanation or helpful suggestions that Mike and I had not already discussed.

 

The head is now torqued down and the rocker shaft is on and torqued.  I plan to get everything else bolted up this week and will re-start the engine, perhaps tomorrow.  I?d be grateful if all listers could keep their fingers crossed tomorrow in the hopes that positive vibes will compensate for any lack of quality in current head gaskets for Healeys.

 

BTW, it was two elderly folk and one pretty strong young buck that removed the head w/manifolds ? my 30 something friend Dan might be cheesed as being referred to as elderly!  I had lifted the head with manifolds once before so knew it could be done, but this was a BT7 and I am unfamiliar with the details of a BJ7 engine bay and whether there are any added complications.  I suggest if you lift it with the manifolds, rest the head on top of the studs when you lift it and remove the two intake manifold drain pipes, and do the same in reverse (as they are a real bugger to get on later) and you would have to lift the head very high when removing if you left them on.  Frankly, use of an engine lift/chain fall would be safer (but less exciting) if you have access to one.

 

Stay tuned!  Mirek

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: October 26, 2021 10:24 PM
To: healeys  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head weight

 

We are struggling with head gasket problems on a newly rebuilt engine BT7 engine at present so will be following this discussion closely.

Regarding lifting the head off with the engine in the car.

With the manifolds on we managed reasonably easily with 1 person on each side lifting the rear of the head and 1 at the front. Bit of a grunt but possible with 3 somewhat elderly folks.

 

M

 

On Tue., Oct. 26, 2021, 10:15 p.m. Fred Wescoe via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Listers,

 

It appears that I may have to pull the head (some oil in the radiator fluid) on my 66 BJ8 and I may (likely) have to replace the head gasket.  I am going to leave the engine in the car.  I have pulled the head of my BJ7 but that was many years ago.  I will need help physically (I'm older now) to pull the BJ8 head.  Does anyone know what the actual weight of just the head is?  I need to determine how many people I need to help me.  Of course, I will remove everything from the head before pulling it and then place a straight edge on the head and block to determine if I have additional issues to deal with.  Hopefully not but I will check.  

 

Do I use sealant on the new head gasket and if so what type?   One side or both sides?

 

After the recent discussion on Moss and their prices and quality, what are the thoughts about sources for a good quality head gasket, without being gouged.  Entering the cold months, I have plenty of time to do this right.  Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or check before buttoning up things? 

 

I want to do this just once but I do want to do it completely and correctly.  So, any words of wisdom are certainly appreciated.

 

Thanks as always,

 

Fred

66BJ8

 

 

_______________________________________________
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-- 

Best--Michael

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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Oct 29 15:09:22 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 21:09:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello,
Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it obviously is, might belong?? I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor linkage.
Thanks.
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 15:14:46 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 17:14:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK94jpafKBskemSiSvq=4R455HjvEuXh_jaSBqJcvObdw@mail.gmail.com>

Handbrake rod from the compensator to the right wheel cylinder.

M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 5:10 p.m. David Lodge via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it
> obviously is, might belong?  I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor
> linkage.
>
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 15:18:41 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 14:18:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <99519EF0A18142DBA91925A6E0C7F5B4@DavidNockHP>

Right rear park brake rod


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: David Lodge via Healeys 
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2021 2:09 PM
To: Austin Healey 
Cc: David Lodge 
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.

Hello,

Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it obviously is, might belong?  I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor linkage.

Thanks.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri Oct 29 15:24:21 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 17:24:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <933913d3-9170-5979-c831-fab212f94050@earthlink.net>

Hand brake linkage on the rear axle.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 10/29/21 5:09 PM, David Lodge via Healeys wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it 
> obviously is, might belong?? I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor 
> linkage.
>
> Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 15:25:24 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 17:25:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
 <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLsao013F0GboUpfUV9sHuJjK9fMhfea4u2aGJcza5Eyw@mail.gmail.com>

Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.

M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
> the crank alone do it?
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
> >
> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
> >> would be willing to sell?
> >>
> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
> >>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 15:53:48 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 14:53:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Premium Head Gasket Result; was "Head weight"
In-Reply-To: <003d01d7cd06$3debf250$b9c3d6f0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <003d01d7cd06$3debf250$b9c3d6f0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOingE3Ud5Y4ky2NNF+Fw4aV39DHAb8Jh2GzyM0ZbDFMg@mail.gmail.com>

My BN2 engine has a Payen gasket that had been sitting in my parts stash
for several years.  This gasket is probably a B.C. gasket. (before China)
Even so, I took Norman Nock's advice and coated both sides of the gasket
with Wellseal.   Just to throw some controversy in the mix I cranked and
extra 5 pounds to the torque setting as advised by a Healey restorer friend
of mine that has since passed.  I don't anticipate any leaks between 3 and
4 when I start it for the first time.  Even if there is, I can't complain
to Norman or my friend about it.
Mike MacLean
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Fri Oct 29 16:02:05 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 16:02:05 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLsao013F0GboUpfUV9sHuJjK9fMhfea4u2aGJcza5Eyw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
 <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLsao013F0GboUpfUV9sHuJjK9fMhfea4u2aGJcza5Eyw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c8e0b3c-ac3a-e1f8-2977-2bbb1c22dfd8@porterscustom.com>

lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a 
stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.? As 
I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp? I understand one is going on BAT in 
the near future. Black over red..

On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>
> M
>
> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
>     they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but
>     does
>     the crank alone do it?
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>     >
>     > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it
>     transforms
>     > the engine. IMHO? I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>     >
>     > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>     >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare
>     that they
>     >> would be willing to sell?
>     >>
>     >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>     >>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
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-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 16:19:10 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 18:19:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <3c8e0b3c-ac3a-e1f8-2977-2bbb1c22dfd8@porterscustom.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
 <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLsao013F0GboUpfUV9sHuJjK9fMhfea4u2aGJcza5Eyw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3c8e0b3c-ac3a-e1f8-2977-2bbb1c22dfd8@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKsqJMz8zZGW3rFAEGBcaXczZasqy29jHwza0-XD7XYeg@mail.gmail.com>

David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting,
bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all
contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference,
neither will a lightened flywheel.
M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a
> stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I
> said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the
> near future. Black over red..
> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>
> M
>
> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
>> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
>> the crank alone do it?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
>> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>> >
>> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>> >> would be willing to sell?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>> >>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> --
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>
> _______________________________________________
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 18:04:17 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 17:04:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKsqJMz8zZGW3rFAEGBcaXczZasqy29jHwza0-XD7XYeg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMi=r2fBjn09Gp+w7vgUr5B8r5Cwp=t4QzbpnyZqOfHfivnBPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <ab65d1f3-7380-a65c-4f32-1c05523a7dd1@porterscustom.com>
 <3f8caa1b-3a2d-f6ef-d5b0-f6d08f4995db@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLsao013F0GboUpfUV9sHuJjK9fMhfea4u2aGJcza5Eyw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3c8e0b3c-ac3a-e1f8-2977-2bbb1c22dfd8@porterscustom.com>
 <CAB3i7LKsqJMz8zZGW3rFAEGBcaXczZasqy29jHwza0-XD7XYeg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqN0f=Kx1Onh-x6ra8BOCF5=Jomk6CbNz+aGZxNT+9GJRg@mail.gmail.com>

But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
> Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting,
> bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all
> contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference,
> neither will a lightened flywheel.
> M
>
> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a
>> stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I
>> said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the
>> near future. Black over red..
>> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
>>> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
>>> the crank alone do it?
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>>> >
>>> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
>>> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>>> >
>>> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>>> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>>> >> would be willing to sell?
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>> >>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>
>> --
>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Fri Oct 29 18:47:39 2021
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 20:47:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <933913d3-9170-5979-c831-fab212f94050@earthlink.net>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
 <933913d3-9170-5979-c831-fab212f94050@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYwNMgPjoRwBMxLMAMX1zxOvsEZonR0-30jCSg5kshTLDQ@mail.gmail.com>

Time to buy a new tape measure.

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021, 5:25 PM Bob Haskell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hand brake linkage on the rear axle.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 10/29/21 5:09 PM, David Lodge via Healeys wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it
> > obviously is, might belong?  I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor
> > linkage.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Oct 29 19:16:53 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 18:16:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqN0f=Kx1Onh-x6ra8BOCF5=Jomk6CbNz+aGZxNT+9GJRg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqN0f=Kx1Onh-x6ra8BOCF5=Jomk6CbNz+aGZxNT+9GJRg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E54ADE37-A4D5-4C67-B0FC-0544CDB54D6D@comcast.net>

Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?


> On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.
> 
>> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
>> Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting, bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference, neither will a lightened flywheel. 
>> M
>> 
>>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over red..
>>> 
>>> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>>> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>>>> 
>>>> M
>>>> 
>>>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that 
>>>>> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does 
>>>>> the crank alone do it?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bob
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms 
>>>>> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>>>>> >
>>>>> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>>>>> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they 
>>>>> >> would be willing to sell?
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>>>> >>
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>> 
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Oct 29 21:48:10 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 03:48:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <E54ADE37-A4D5-4C67-B0FC-0544CDB54D6D@comcast.net>
References: <CAKkXjqN0f=Kx1Onh-x6ra8BOCF5=Jomk6CbNz+aGZxNT+9GJRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <E54ADE37-A4D5-4C67-B0FC-0544CDB54D6D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SA1PR13MB56351AC9303E9750769B0704A5889@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?


On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting, bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference, neither will a lightened flywheel.
M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over red..

On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.

M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
the crank alone do it?

Bob

On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>
> pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
> the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>
> On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>> would be willing to sell?
>>
>> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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--
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/<http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/>

_______________________________________________
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 23:42:20 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 22:42:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Head Weight
In-Reply-To: <caaa3257-4f00-aeca-c907-c91c3d6bd8bd@comcast.net>
References: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <933078570.1484041.1635525215612@mail.yahoo.com>
 <caaa3257-4f00-aeca-c907-c91c3d6bd8bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89h+Qd8wj00MJC8gQrnnuBMY0tdqGR5mFsYcMVCCpGvAg@mail.gmail.com>

Lolz

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021, 10:09 AM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> But what is its BMI? That's what's important.
>
>
> On 10/29/2021 9:33 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> The question regarding the head weight apparently struck a nerve so I took
> the bathroom scale (rarely used) to the garage and gently set a BJ8 head
> with valves, springs and intake studs in place, on the scale.  83 pounds.
> P
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 30 03:20:51 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 02:20:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR13MB56351AC9303E9750769B0704A5889@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAKkXjqN0f=Kx1Onh-x6ra8BOCF5=Jomk6CbNz+aGZxNT+9GJRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <E54ADE37-A4D5-4C67-B0FC-0544CDB54D6D@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR13MB56351AC9303E9750769B0704A5889@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMM6bN8iqMaAGC_LOJk_-0qsrwzvoC9j7R4JkC1xRZdGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them to
handle the crank in higher RPM?  Just a thought with only 3 main bearings
and no harmonic balancer.
Mike MacLean

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a
> stronger basis for the other mods that will.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
> *To:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
>
> Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?
>
>
> On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.
>
> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
> Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting,
> bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all
> contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference,
> neither will a lightened flywheel.
> M
>
> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a
> stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I
> said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the
> near future. Black over red..
> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>
> M
>
> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
> the crank alone do it?
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
> >
> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
> >> would be willing to sell?
> >>
> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
> >>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Oct 30 05:19:27 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 05:19:27 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
Message-ID: <osxabo56xstsp7keyp0yaym5.1635592767788@email.android.com>

Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP

On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them to handle the crank in higher RPM?? Just a thought with only 3 main bearings and no harmonic balancer.

Mike MacLean


On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will.


Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft 

?

Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?



On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

? 

But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.


On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM? 

Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting, bigger carbs,? shorter stroke, even increased compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference, neither will a lightened flywheel.?

M


On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.? As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp? I understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over red..

On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:

Confirmation bias is a very powerful force. 


M


On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that 
they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does 
the crank alone do it?

Bob

On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>
> pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms 
> the engine. IMHO? I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>
> On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they 
>> would be willing to sell?
>>
>> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Oct 30 11:11:35 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 17:11:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
Message-ID: <f32909f3b4b5cb5ea426373c0302ea4ffb4d9604@webmail>

The "weakness" in the original 100, A-90 crankshaft was the lack of a
harmonic balancer, coupled with a huge heavy flywheel. More than
likely, the crank that was sought after for replacement, had cracks
near the rear main area where it vibrated itself to death. A case for
not revving the engine over 4000 rpms. (Donald Healey set strict
orders for all his racers to keep the revs down).
They (BMC) fixed all that, or should I say Morris Motors, fixed it by
adding the harmonic balancer to the early 100-6 engine. Too bad they
lost points in other areas, but by the time the 2912cc engine was
developed, they did in fact fix all that...best six made! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "David Porter via
Healeys" 
To: "Michael MacLean", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 4:20:15AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

	Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't
mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition
of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer
will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you
want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge
main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP


 On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys  wrote:

  Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across
them to handle the crank in higher RPM? Just a thought with only 3
main bearings and no harmonic balancer.
 Mike MacLean

 On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
wrote:
   I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it
provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will. 
 Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 
-------------------------
 FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys 
SENT: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
TO: richard mayor 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft      Does it de-stroke the engine
(shorter throws)? 

On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys  wrote:

   ? But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.

 On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys  wrote:
  David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional
RPM? Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves,
porting, bigger carbs, shorter stroke, even increased compression may
all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any
difference, neither will a lightened flywheel.  M  
 On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys,  wrote:

	lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and
its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some
fun. As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp I understand one is going on
BAT in the near future. Black over red..
 On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
  Confirmation bias is a very powerful force. 
 M  
 On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys,  wrote:
  OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
 they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but
does
 the crank alone do it?

 Bob

 On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
 >
 > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it
transforms
 > the engine. IMHO I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
 >
 > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
 >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that
they
 >> would be willing to sell?
 >>
 >> Thanks, Bob Memler
 >>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Oct 30 11:11:48 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 13:11:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <osxabo56xstsp7keyp0yaym5.1635592767788@email.android.com>
References: <osxabo56xstsp7keyp0yaym5.1635592767788@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5HHqXggoMQFOxoP2U8Zrh4U7oLEui+YB4LbVQMHViw6A@mail.gmail.com>

A DW crank (and other upgrades) might "transform" a 100's engine in that it
can be run at greater rpm's with less chance of hand-grenading.
In practice our cars will only be driven at high revs--especially
sustained--when on a track, and when the whole engine has hopefully been
blueprinted.



On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 7:19 AM David Porter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't mean
> it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition of other
> lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer will have you
> at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?. The
> AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge main caps handle it
> just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP
>
>
> On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them to
> handle the crank in higher RPM?  Just a thought with only 3 main bearings
> and no harmonic balancer.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a
>> stronger basis for the other mods that will.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>> Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
>> *To:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
>>
>> Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?
>>
>>
>> On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
>> Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting,
>> bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all
>> contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference,
>> neither will a lightened flywheel.
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a
>> stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I
>> said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the
>> near future. Black over red..
>> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
>> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
>> the crank alone do it?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
>> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>> >
>> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>> >> would be willing to sell?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>> >>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> --
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Oct 30 12:33:05 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 11:33:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <f32909f3b4b5cb5ea426373c0302ea4ffb4d9604@webmail>
References: <f32909f3b4b5cb5ea426373c0302ea4ffb4d9604@webmail>
Message-ID: <8D9787A3-9C31-453E-AF47-1E24CE660880@comcast.net>

Begs the question: Anyone make an aftermarket balancer for the 100s? Without looking, I think there?s enough room for one.

> On Oct 30, 2021, at 10:17 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?The "weakness" in the original 100, A-90 crankshaft was the lack of a harmonic balancer, coupled with a huge heavy flywheel.  More than likely, the crank that was sought after for replacement, had cracks near the rear main area where it vibrated itself to death. A case for not revving the engine over 4000 rpms. (Donald Healey set strict orders for all his racers to keep the revs down).
> 
> They (BMC) fixed all that, or should I say Morris Motors, fixed it by adding the harmonic balancer to the early 100-6 engine.  Too bad they lost points in other areas, but by the time the 2912cc engine was developed, they did in fact fix all that...best six made!  Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "David Porter via Healeys" 
> To: "Michael MacLean", "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc: 
> Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 4:20:15AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
> 
> Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP
> 
> 
> 
> On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them to handle the crank in higher RPM?  Just a thought with only 3 main bearings and no harmonic balancer.
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will.
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
>> To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
>>  
>> Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?
>> 
>> 
>> On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.
>> 
>> On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
>> Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting, bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference, neither will a lightened flywheel. 
>> M
>> 
>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over red..
>> 
>> On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>> Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
>> they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
>> the crank alone do it?
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
>> > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>> >
>> > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>> >> would be willing to sell?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks, Bob Memler
>> >>
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
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>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"> "http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com"
>> target=
>> "_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>> 
>> -- 
>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: rel="noreferrer" target=
>> "_blank">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sat Oct 30 12:44:31 2021
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2021 20:44:31 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <8D9787A3-9C31-453E-AF47-1E24CE660880@comcast.net>
References: <f32909f3b4b5cb5ea426373c0302ea4ffb4d9604@webmail>
 <8D9787A3-9C31-453E-AF47-1E24CE660880@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1635619471559.6615830.032cdb17303aa96bb5bb47189e9463fea2f42974@spica.telekom.de>

Is there a need for one? Never needed one on my 100.
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
Datum: 2021-10-30T20:34:14+0200
Von: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
An: "gradea1 at charter.net" <gradea1 at charter.net>
 
 
 
 
Begs the question: Anyone make an aftermarket balancer for the 100s? 
Without looking, I think there?s enough room for one.


    On Oct 30, 2021, at 10:17 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys
    <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


    The "weakness" in the original 100, A-90 crankshaft was the lack of a
    harmonic balancer, coupled with a huge heavy flywheel.  More than
    likely, the crank that was sought after for replacement, had cracks
    near the rear main area where it vibrated itself to death. A case for
    not revving the engine over 4000 rpms. (Donald Healey set strict orders
    for all his racers to keep the revs down).
     
    They (BMC) fixed all that, or should I say Morris Motors, fixed it by
    adding the harmonic balancer to the early 100-6 engine.  Too bad they
    lost points in other areas, but by the time the 2912cc engine was
    developed, they did in fact fix all that...best six made!  Hank

     
    -----------------------------------------
    From: "David Porter via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
    To: "Michael MacLean", "healeys at autox.team.net"
    Cc:
    Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 4:20:15AM
    Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

    Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't
    mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition
    of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer
    will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you
    want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge
    main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP


    On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys
    <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


    Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them
    to handle the crank in higher RPM?  Just a thought with only 3 main
    bearings and no harmonic balancer.
    Mike MacLean

    On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
    healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
      I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a
      stronger basis for the other mods that will.
       
      Bill Lawrence
      BN1 #554
      ------------------------------------------------------------------
      From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
      Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
      Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
      To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
      Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
      Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft
       
       
      Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?
       


          On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <
          healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


          But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.

          On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
          healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
            David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000
            additional RPM?
            Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves,
            porting, bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased
            compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone
            will not make any difference, neither will a lightened
            flywheel. 
            M

            On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <
            healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
              lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of
              cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal
              and go have some fun.  As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I
              understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over
              red..
              On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:

                  Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.
                   
                  M

                  On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via
                  Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
                    OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a
                    100? I get that
                    they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more
                    RPM/HP, but does
                    the crank alone do it?

                    Bob

                    On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
                    >
                    > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh
                    crank, it transforms
                    > the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were
                    available in '54
                    >
                    > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys
                    wrote:
                    >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have
                    a spare that they
                    >> would be willing to sell?
                    >>
                    >> Thanks, Bob Memler
                    >>

                    _______________________________________________
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              --
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              505-352-1378 My World go here: rel="noreferrer" target=
              "_blank">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sat Oct 30 18:02:46 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2021 13:02:46 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Head Weight
In-Reply-To: <caaa3257-4f00-aeca-c907-c91c3d6bd8bd@comcast.net>
References: <933078570.1484041.1635525215612.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <933078570.1484041.1635525215612@mail.yahoo.com>
 <caaa3257-4f00-aeca-c907-c91c3d6bd8bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000501d7cdea$a455b280$ed011780$@xtra.co.nz>

BMI was important in my rowing days on the water.   I still work out regularly on my Concept II erg here at home.

BMI = weight (kg) / height (m) squared

 

Just for the hell of it, I worked out the BMI for the cylinder head  . . .   37.64 kg / 0.72m  x  0.72m = 72.4

 

If it was human I reckon it?s doctor would be pretty worried.   25 is the ?text book? figure to aim for (according to the health insurers.)   ?

 

Yours, in lockdown,

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Saturday, 30 October 2021 6:08 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head Weight

 

But what is its BMI?   That's what's important.



On 10/29/2021 9:33 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:

The question regarding the head weight apparently struck a nerve so I took the bathroom scale (rarely used) to the garage and gently set a BJ8 head with valves, springs and intake studs in place, on the scale.  83 pounds. 

P 

 

 

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Oct 30 23:17:07 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2021 05:17:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1635619471559.6615830.032cdb17303aa96bb5bb47189e9463fea2f42974@spica.telekom.de>
References: <f32909f3b4b5cb5ea426373c0302ea4ffb4d9604@webmail>
 <8D9787A3-9C31-453E-AF47-1E24CE660880@comcast.net>
 <1635619471559.6615830.032cdb17303aa96bb5bb47189e9463fea2f42974@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <SA1PR13MB563536A085F313A1B22B48ECA5899@SA1PR13MB5635.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

DW sells a vibration damper for the 4 cylinder.

When I built my engine I used the belt pulley system from a six because one of the vibration sources on the four is the heavy, old school, implement belt that is standard. I found all three pulleys fit with only a minor mod to the water pump pulley. It may be the placebo effect but I really think the engine runs more smoothly with the narrower belt. I considered using the vibration damper from the six also, but it?s a little chancy to install one without analyzing the vibration characteristics of the crank and matching the damper to it. The DW damper is tailored to the four cylinder crank.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of josef-eckert--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 6:44 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft


Is there a need for one? Never needed one on my 100.







-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

Datum: 2021-10-30T20:34:14+0200

Von: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>

An: "gradea1 at charter.net" <gradea1 at charter.net>








Begs the question: Anyone make an aftermarket balancer for the 100s? Without looking, I think there?s enough room for one.

On Oct 30, 2021, at 10:17 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

The "weakness" in the original 100, A-90 crankshaft was the lack of a harmonic balancer, coupled with a huge heavy flywheel.  More than likely, the crank that was sought after for replacement, had cracks near the rear main area where it vibrated itself to death. A case for not revving the engine over 4000 rpms. (Donald Healey set strict orders for all his racers to keep the revs down).

They (BMC) fixed all that, or should I say Morris Motors, fixed it by adding the harmonic balancer to the early 100-6 engine.  Too bad they lost points in other areas, but by the time the 2912cc engine was developed, they did in fact fix all that...best six made!  Hank



-----------------------------------------

From: "David Porter via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: "Michael MacLean", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc:
Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 4:20:15AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft


Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP


On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across them to handle the crank in higher RPM?  Just a thought with only 3 main bearings and no harmonic balancer.
Mike MacLean

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft


Does it de-stroke the engine (shorter throws)?


On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker.

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves, porting, bigger carbs,  shorter stroke, even increased compression may all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any difference, neither will a lightened flywheel.
M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some fun.  As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp  I understand one is going on BAT in the near future. Black over red..

On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
Confirmation bias is a very powerful force.

M

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but does
the crank alone do it?

Bob

On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>
> pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it transforms
> the engine. IMHO  I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
>
> On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
>> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that they
>> would be willing to sell?
>>
>> Thanks, Bob Memler
>>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Oct 31 11:21:13 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2021 17:21:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft
Message-ID: <52b442e2223e20ab2e5ddbeefb37de54caf0a423@webmail>

ONE OTHER IMPORTANT FACTOR IN SMOOTH RUNNING, RELIABLE ENGINES IS
BALANCE (some call it blueprinting but that encompasses many changes)
When the machine shop did my original crank, they first magnafluxed
it, and then turned it to .020. I provided the flywheel, and front
pulley, as well as the clutch cover and disc and they used those
components to "balance" the engine. The markings on the flywheel and
clutch were used in assembly to put all correctly in balanced position
and the engine runs very smoothly, for a four, and sounds great. I
would recommend this procedure when rebuilding.
Think about all the weight being thrown around at the rear of the
engine, and just a small pulley up front. Adding more mass to the
front can't be a bad thing, but if you do as Donald instructed, and
don't rev over 4500RPMS when racing, the engine will last a long time.
The 100 flywheel is one serious hunk of metal.
On the first 6-cyl. engines, Geoff Healey said if they revved it over
4000 they were afraid the vibration would blow apart. The went back to
Morris Motors and the solution then was to thicken the back plate. I
don't know much about the engineering of rotation but the word
"smooth" seems to fit the best. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" 
To: "josef-eckert--- via Healeys", "Bob Spidell",
"gradea1 at charter.net", "josef-eckert at t-online.de"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 10:17:08PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

  DW sells a vibration damper for the 4 cylinder.   
  When I built my engine I used the belt pulley system from a six
because one of the vibration sources on the four is the heavy, old
school, implement belt that is standard. I found all three pulleys fit
with only a minor mod to the water pump pulley. It may be the placebo
effect but I really think the engine runs more smoothly with the
narrower belt. I considered using the vibration damper from the six
also, but it?s a little chancy to install one without analyzing the
vibration characteristics of the crank and matching the damper to it.
The DW damper is tailored to the four cylinder crank.  
  Bill Lawrence  BN1 #554 
-------------------------
FROM: Healeys  on behalf of josef-eckert--- via Healeys 
SENT: Saturday, October 30, 2021 6:44 PM
TO: Bob Spidell ; gradea1 at charter.net 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft     

	 Is there a need for one? Never needed one on my 100.

	-----Original-Nachricht----- 

	Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft 

	Datum: 2021-10-30T20:34:14+0200 

	Von: "Bob Spidell via Healeys"  

	An: "gradea1 at charter.net"  

	     Begs the question: Anyone make an aftermarket balancer for the
100s? Without looking, I think there?s enough room for one. 
On Oct 30, 2021, at 10:17 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys  wrote:

   The "weakness" in the original 100, A-90 crankshaft was the lack of
a harmonic balancer, coupled with a huge heavy flywheel. More than
likely, the crank that was sought after for replacement, had cracks
near the rear main area where it vibrated itself to death. A case for
not revving the engine over 4000 rpms. (Donald Healey set strict
orders for all his racers to keep the revs down).   They (BMC) fixed
all that, or should I say Morris Motors, fixed it by adding the
harmonic balancer to the early 100-6 engine. Too bad they lost points
in other areas, but by the time the 2912cc engine was developed, they
did in fact fix all that...best six made! Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "David Porter via
Healeys" 
 To: "Michael MacLean", "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Saturday October 30 2021 4:20:15AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft

	Don't over think this. Just because it will rev much better doesn't
mean it gets used all the time, but it's there. Of course the addition
of other lighter bits and an AL head and expensive harmonic balancer
will have you at a greater expense. Speed costs money, how fast do you
want to go?. The AH four makes excellent bottom end torque. The huge
main caps handle it just fine. The original crank is the weak link. DP


 On October 30, 2021, at 3:22 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys  wrote:

  Wouldn't you have to beef up the main caps and add straps across
them to handle the crank in higher RPM? Just a thought with only 3
main bearings and no harmonic balancer. Mike MacLean  
 On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 8:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
wrote:   I?d say it doesn?t transform the engine by itself, but it
provides a stronger basis for the other mods that will.   Bill
Lawrence BN1 #554 
-------------------------
 FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys 
SENT: Saturday, October 30, 2021 1:16 AM
TO: richard mayor 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Crankshaft       Does it de-stroke the engine
(shorter throws)?   
On Oct 29, 2021, at 5:05 PM, richard mayor via Healeys  wrote:

    But a lightened flywheel will get you there quicker. 
 On Fri, Oct 29, 2021 at 3:19 PM Michael Salter via Healeys  wrote: 
David, how does changing the crankshaft give you 2000 additional RPM?
Lighter rods and pistons, balancing, cam timing, bigger valves,
porting, bigger carbs, shorter stroke, even increased compression may
all contribute to higher RPM but a crank alone will not make any
difference, neither will a lightened flywheel.  M  
 On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 6:03 p.m. David P via Healeys,  wrote:   

	lighter, stronger, 2000+ additional rpms ,add a wee bit of cam and
its a stormer and looks dead stock.. add a real seal and go have some
fun. As I said IMHO.. It ain't cheap. dp I understand one is going on
BAT in the near future. Black over red.. On 10/29/2021 3:25 PM,
Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:  Confirmation bias is a very
powerful force.   M  
 On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 3:35 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys,  wrote: 
OK, I'll bite: How does a Welch crank transform a a 100? I get that
 they're steel and stronger, and should withstand more RPM/HP, but
does
 the crank alone do it?

 Bob

 On 10/29/2021 8:10 AM, David P via Healeys wrote:
 >
 > pretty much hen's teeth is my guess. But a Welsh crank, it
transforms
 > the engine. IMHO I'm sure Donald wishes they were available in '54
 >
 > On 10/28/2021 2:29 PM, Robert Memler via Healeys wrote:
 >> I need a crankshaft for a 54 b;no. Does anyone have a spare that
they
 >> would be willing to sell?
 >>
 >> Thanks, Bob Memler
 >>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Oct 31 22:17:44 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2021 12:17:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJHHmSEohzwnKcyubS3b18RFiK-SwbmkTPCnZx1m20ksg@mail.gmail.com>

That?s the hand crank for the Fetzer Valve.

Or maybe a handbrake control rod?

On Sat, 30 Oct 2021 at 5:11 AM, David Lodge via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it
> obviously is, might belong?  I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor
> linkage.
>
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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct 31 22:23:54 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2021 04:23:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part.
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJHHmSEohzwnKcyubS3b18RFiK-SwbmkTPCnZx1m20ksg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <272253128.4096674.1635541763102.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <272253128.4096674.1635541763102@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJHHmSEohzwnKcyubS3b18RFiK-SwbmkTPCnZx1m20ksg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <115689675.4659332.1635740634933@mail.yahoo.com>

You don't expect me to buy that, Alan?? Even I know that the Fetzer Valve was discontinued at the BN4!
 

    On Sun Oct 31 2021 21:17:56 GMT-0700 (PDT), Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 That?s the hand crank for the Fetzer Valve.
Or maybe a handbrake control rod?
On Sat, 30 Oct 2021 at 5:11 AM, David Lodge via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hello,
Can anybody please tell me where this - bent and mis-shapen though it obviously is, might belong?? I found it in my box of BJ8 carburettor linkage.
  
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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct 31 22:42:07 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2021 04:42:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tunnel cover carpet
In-Reply-To: <006001d7ba82$1c544ac0$54fce040$@btinternet.com>
References: <006001d7ba82$1c544ac0$54fce040$@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <1046715500.4673344.1635741727123@mail.yahoo.com>

Looks exactly like mine, except for the extra holes thoughtfully provided by the DAPO, evidently to assist with cockpit cooling!!
 

    On Wed Oct 06 2021 00:18:37 GMT-0700 (PDT), Ian Hey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 <!--#yiv9753199127 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9753199127 #yiv9753199127 p.yiv9753199127MsoNormal, #yiv9753199127 li.yiv9753199127MsoNormal, #yiv9753199127 div.yiv9753199127MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv9753199127 span.yiv9753199127EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9753199127 .yiv9753199127MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9753199127 div.yiv9753199127WordSection1 {}-->
Simon?s gearbox cover looks exactly like mine from a BJ7.? All the same holes, but mine is plain resin, not painted.? No idea what the other hole is for.

 ?

Ian
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