[Healeys] Water Temperature gauge Bezel

[rfbegani at gmail.com]

Thanks, Mirek for the detailed information.  I have printed the entire
script and will keep it in my files for the opportunity to consider the DIY
method you advise.

One of my Healey things to do in the next 6 months.  Meanwhile, I know what
is the correct temperature and not worried about the gauge showing  between
230 degrees and 212 degrees after settling down below 212 degrees while
driving.

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> 
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 8:05 AM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Water Temperature gauge Bezel

 

Bob, I assume the later gauges are the same as  the earlier ones.  If you
look carefully at the body of the gauge where the bezel fits over the rim,
you will see three notches.   It is not easy, but the bezel can be rotated
so the tabs line up with the notches and the bezel can be carefully pried
off.  Often the bezels are stuck as they have been there so long.  You can
try very gently prying the tabs open a bit, but they are fragile and break
easily, then the bezel is useless.  Below, John recommends against bending
the tabs, but I have done so successfully a few times, but I did break one
once too!

 

I asked John Marks of Vintage Restorations (retired instrument restorer) and
here is his reply:

 

3.	“Dont bend bezel lugs up they usually break off.   We have a steel
rod about 5/8” by ¼” with holes for the fixing studs and a bit cut to clear
the cable drive.  Put this in a vice, mount the instrument on the holes, and
try to turn the bezel off the case using rubber gloves.   Good luck!”  (I
think the “rod” John refers to is probably a flat bar)

 

The needle can be very gently pried off the spindle.  I used two small
jewelers screwdrivers, one on each side.  It can be then gently pressed back
on in the right position.  I did have one needle that would slip on the
spindle and I used the tiniest blob of clear silicone to hold it in place.
I would not use glue as it will never come apart in the future.  

 

You have probably thought of it, but I would get a container of water, a
reliable thermometer and a heating element and calibrate the instrument
before replacing the bezel.

 

Lastly, when you pull the gauge away from the facia, you will likely destroy
the rubber ring that goes between the gauge and the facia.  Try to save it
if you can, but the rubber is usually perished.  If you need to replace it,
look at it carefully as on some of the instruments the rubber is a normal
o-ring, but on some, I think the big instruments, the rubber has a square
section and is not round.  Replacement rubbers are available from Nisongers
(www.nisonger.com <http://www.nisonger.com> ), and probably other sources.

 

Good luck, Mirek

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Begani via
Healeys
Sent: November 10, 2021 6:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Water Temperature gauge Bezel

 

Listeners:

 

As the Davis Craig Electric Water Pump with the Electric Fan pushing are
working to reduce the overheating and boil over on my BJ8, it now comes time
to move the needle back 90 degrees because that is the amount the gauge is
off.  Someone mentioned that I do not need to send the gauge out for repair,
I could simply remove the bezel. Please explain how to get it of and back on
without breaking it.

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20211110/4a4a93d9/attachment.htm>