From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sat May  1 05:50:45 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 07:50:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn_tjYpnsVHpFR=3N2892e7KPWQ4w+qh2q9MceO0k74nfQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn_tjYpnsVHpFR=3N2892e7KPWQ4w+qh2q9MceO0k74nfQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <035b01d73e80$38eb7510$aac25f30$@sympatico.ca>

Get a solid copper one like the original. I have never changed mine in the 45+ years of ownership and it does not leak.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Gary Anderson via Healeys
Sent: April 30, 2021 8:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan

 

I'm getting ready to change the oil on my Healey -- a chore that was taken care of by various shops when the car was in for service, so not something I've done for many years -- and know that one of the essential parts that makes all the difference is a fresh, unused crunch washer to put on when the  plug is put back into the bottom of the oil pan. 

I have no idea where to get one these days -- It used to be a very cheap item from Moss and I'd order half a dozen every couple of years.  Any suggestions?

Gary Anderson

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May  1 11:26:59 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 10:26:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz883bWipyj+sSOepJHfCrV=d+ybcc3Cjm2CfANsOLucXPw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz883bWipyj+sSOepJHfCrV=d+ybcc3Cjm2CfANsOLucXPw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-Sykvn35hvMqDbWLHHpHvRazFU77V4ECQ2Otf2QJGqZA@mail.gmail.com>

OK According to Moss it is called a finisher. So demister and the dimisses
must be another part.
Thanks folks
Installing my dash pad on Monday. I need to lift up my windscreen to caulk
under the bits to stop or at least slow down the rivers of water chitting
my knee.
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:38 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte?
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May  1 11:53:03 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 13:53:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-Sykvn35hvMqDbWLHHpHvRazFU77V4ECQ2Otf2QJGqZA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz883bWipyj+sSOepJHfCrV=d+ybcc3Cjm2CfANsOLucXPw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-Sykvn35hvMqDbWLHHpHvRazFU77V4ECQ2Otf2QJGqZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKS-TrJn3=4Fgp_NaX93pw1FdggFw6qqkbUZkWt9pb8eA@mail.gmail.com>

I believe the "official" is "demister mask" ... I  often wonder where the
Brit come up with these terms.

M

On Sat., May 1, 2021, 1:27 p.m. i erbs via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> OK According to Moss it is called a finisher. So demister and the dimisses
> must be another part.
> Thanks folks
> Installing my dash pad on Monday. I need to lift up my windscreen to caulk
> under the bits to stop or at least slow down the rivers of water chitting
> my knee.
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:38 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte?
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> 1959 AH 100-6
>> 1967 MGB
>> Milwaukie, OR
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From garyandersonmm at gmail.com  Sat May  1 12:13:40 2021
From: garyandersonmm at gmail.com (Gary Anderson)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 11:13:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
Message-ID: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to everyone for your information. I don't think I'm going to pay $20
for a crunch washer, but the information should allow me and my mechanic --
who works on everything from Lotus Europas to Checker lodge buses -- to
figure out something that will do the job properly.
Cheers
Gary
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From kags at shaw.ca  Sat May  1 15:09:15 2021
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 14:09:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d73ece$440df730$cc29e590$@shaw.ca>

Gary:

 

I use a regular flat washer with a rubber gasket integral ? can?t remember exactly what it?s called at the moment (bonded sealing washer, or grommet washer).  Use an appropriate sized rubber o-ring to keep it from wandering sideways into the undercut on the drain bolt.

 

I?ve used this system for 30 plus years on both Healeys without leaks or problems, and they don?t have to be replaced at subsequent oil changes.  The one on the tri-carb had been on the car for 20 plus years ? a couple of oil changes per year.

 

When you?ve got the drain plug out or the car, take it with you to the auto parts store and fit it up to your satisfaction there.  A couple of dollars should do it.  Pretty sure the washer size is ??.

 

Cheers,

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

 

   

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Gary Anderson via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 11:14 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers

 

Thanks to everyone for your information. I don't think I'm going to pay $20 for a crunch washer, but the information should allow me and my mechanic -- who works on everything from Lotus Europas to Checker lodge buses -- to figure out something that will do the job properly. 

Cheers

Gary



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat May  1 15:43:17 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 14:43:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4ywjwy-zSRt0-AJnTecuPzfLMrR0N9UHHpmE+y0H9xZA@mail.gmail.com>

BTW I have always seen it termed a CRUSH washer, not crunch, but what do I
know?

Best-Michael Oritt

On Sat, May 1, 2021, 11:16 AM Gary Anderson via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Thanks to everyone for your information. I don't think I'm going to pay
> $20 for a crunch washer, but the information should allow me and my
> mechanic -- who works on everything from Lotus Europas to Checker lodge
> buses -- to figure out something that will do the job properly.
> Cheers
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May  1 16:17:20 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 18:17:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
In-Reply-To: <000001d73ece$440df730$cc29e590$@shaw.ca>
References: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d73ece$440df730$cc29e590$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJD3QcReCk1vzZZ0rFVCzmMkH=ZxdYF71uGWyS-3=4LMw@mail.gmail.com>

"I use a regular flat washer with a rubber gasket integral ? can?t remember
exactly what it?s called at the moment (bonded sealing washer, or grommet
washer)."
I believe the official name is Dowty Washer. Developed by Dowty Hydraulics
for use in aircraft hydraulic systems.

On Sat., May 1, 2021, 5:09 p.m. Earl Kagna via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gary:
>
>
>
> I use a regular flat washer with a rubber gasket integral ? can?t remember
> exactly what it?s called at the moment (bonded sealing washer, or grommet
> washer).  Use an appropriate sized rubber o-ring to keep it from wandering
> sideways into the undercut on the drain bolt.
>
>
>
> I?ve used this system for 30 plus years on both Healeys without leaks or
> problems, and they don?t have to be replaced at subsequent oil changes.
> The one on the tri-carb had been on the car for 20 plus years ? a couple of
> oil changes per year.
>
>
>
> When you?ve got the drain plug out or the car, take it with you to the
> auto parts store and fit it up to your satisfaction there.  A couple of
> dollars should do it.  Pretty sure the washer size is ??.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria BC
>
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Anderson via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 1, 2021 11:14 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Crunch Washers
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for your information. I don't think I'm going to pay
> $20 for a crunch washer, but the information should allow me and my
> mechanic -- who works on everything from Lotus Europas to Checker lodge
> buses -- to figure out something that will do the job properly.
>
> Cheers
>
> Gary
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-3535008722750149341_m_-2902941277207223858_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat May  1 18:42:27 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 20:42:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another reproduction part
Message-ID: <625ae0c6-480e-a27a-5573-9d49eb534bcf@earthlink.net>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May  1 19:37:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 18:37:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another reproduction part
In-Reply-To: <625ae0c6-480e-a27a-5573-9d49eb534bcf@earthlink.net>
References: <625ae0c6-480e-a27a-5573-9d49eb534bcf@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <da6606ee-17bc-2e3d-45d6-8a69d99bc0e4@comcast.net>

I have one of Doug's originals; one of the best mods I ever made, on any 
car (right up there with spin-on oil filter adapters).
Bob

On 5/1/2021 5:42 PM, Bob Haskell via Healeys wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Hopefully this is a good reproduction.? I've made two dozen of Doug 
> Reid's 6 cylinder clutch bleeder extensions.? Steel hard line, 
> fittings from FedHill, powder coated bracket.? Uses your bleed screw.? 
> Same price that Doug sold them for in 2006 - $35 plus shipping.? 
> Priority Mail (within US) is $10 per box and several extensions can be 
> shipped in the same box.? Payment via PayPal, but send me an email 
> first so I can confirm that I have the number of extensions you want.
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 00:10:11 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 23:10:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Driving_Donald_Healey=E2=80=99s_Monte-winnin?=
	=?utf-8?q?g_Invicta_Low_Chassis?=
Message-ID: <CABXhz884LE-fKU3jOQVN9LRr1-bfdGeu12-mHA317RO1g+SJTw@mail.gmail.com>

https://tinyurl.com/4vzjyw7m
Classics and sports cars magazine article
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.
www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Sun May  2 01:58:18 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 08:58:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 
 =?utf-8?q?Driving_Donald_Healey=E2=80=99s_Monte-winnin?=
 =?utf-8?q?g_Invicta_Low_Chassis?=
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz884LE-fKU3jOQVN9LRr1-bfdGeu12-mHA317RO1g+SJTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz884LE-fKU3jOQVN9LRr1-bfdGeu12-mHA317RO1g+SJTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BC80B33F-19FC-4287-A76E-BD62CC349C29@gmail.com>

Thanks Ira.
That?s a good read.
It also signals why DMH adopted the underslung chassis and high torque rather than high power for his Big Healeys.
Many thanks.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 2 May 2021, at 07:11, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> https://tinyurl.com/4vzjyw7m
> Classics and sports cars magazine article
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
> 
> 
> 1967 MGB  
> 
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avg.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun May  2 08:48:42 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 07:48:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <ed7abf71-ed3d-ba87-1446-fc7bac0f159a@roadrunner.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <ed7abf71-ed3d-ba87-1446-fc7bac0f159a@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <055901d73f62$3f518150$bdf483f0$@roadrunner.com>

The bracket that secures the dip switch to the floor is secured by 2 screws, one above and below the switch itself on the bracket feet.  The switch is then secured to the bracket by 2 screws from the back side.  Hence, you have to remove the whole unit to get the switch out.  The 3 wires are secured to the switch by screw terminals.  Be sure to note the position of each color wire.  Getting to the bracket screws is a pain.  A long extension and U-joint or swivel adapter help.  

 

Here?s a photo showing the bracket mounting screws.  You can also see the switch mounting screws protruding through the switch plate.  (I fabricated a dead pedal that mounts under the dip switch bracket, so you can ignore the extraneous metal bits.)

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 5:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch

 

How is the dip switch mounted on my BT7?   I need to remove it as it is no longer functional.

Thanks for any info!

== Alex in Maine, "The Blue Mainie' BT7 and 1946 MG-TC.

 

On 4/30/2021 6:46 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys wrote:

Hello

 

It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 and 3000s.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch

 

Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car or outside from underneath?

Mike MacLean






_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com
 

 

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun May  2 09:02:57 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 08:02:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another reproduction part
In-Reply-To: <da6606ee-17bc-2e3d-45d6-8a69d99bc0e4@comcast.net>
References: <625ae0c6-480e-a27a-5573-9d49eb534bcf@earthlink.net>
 <da6606ee-17bc-2e3d-45d6-8a69d99bc0e4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <05b001d73f64$3d2a97c0$b77fc740$@roadrunner.com>

Agreed, and it?s great they are being reproduced again.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2021 6:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another reproduction part

 

I have one of Doug's originals; one of the best mods I ever made, on any car (right up there with spin-on oil filter adapters).
Bob

On 5/1/2021 5:42 PM, Bob Haskell via Healeys wrote:

Listers,

Hopefully this is a good reproduction.  I've made two dozen of Doug Reid's 6 cylinder clutch bleeder extensions.  Steel hard line, fittings from FedHill, powder coated bracket.  Uses your bleed screw.  Same price that Doug sold them for in 2006 - $35 plus shipping.  Priority Mail (within US) is $10 per box and several extensions can be shipped in the same box.  Payment via PayPal, but send me an email first so I can confirm that I have the number of extensions you want.



Cheers,
 
Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 

 

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun May  2 09:37:02 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 11:37:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another reproduction part
In-Reply-To: <05b001d73f64$3d2a97c0$b77fc740$@roadrunner.com>
References: <625ae0c6-480e-a27a-5573-9d49eb534bcf@earthlink.net>
 <da6606ee-17bc-2e3d-45d6-8a69d99bc0e4@comcast.net>
 <05b001d73f64$3d2a97c0$b77fc740$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <002601d73f68$ffd692c0$ff83b840$@verizon.net>

I have a link on my site. I had one of Doug?s originals. What a wonderful item it was

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bruce Steele
Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 11:03 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another reproduction part

 

Agreed, and it?s great they are being reproduced again.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2021 6:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another reproduction part

 

I have one of Doug's originals; one of the best mods I ever made, on any car (right up there with spin-on oil filter adapters).
Bob

On 5/1/2021 5:42 PM, Bob Haskell via Healeys wrote:

Listers,

Hopefully this is a good reproduction.  I've made two dozen of Doug Reid's 6 cylinder clutch bleeder extensions.  Steel hard line, fittings from FedHill, powder coated bracket.  Uses your bleed screw.  Same price that Doug sold them for in 2006 - $35 plus shipping.  Priority Mail (within US) is $10 per box and several extensions can be shipped in the same box.  Payment via PayPal, but send me an email first so I can confirm that I have the number of extensions you want.

Cheers,
 
Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 

 

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From manifold at telus.net  Sun May  2 10:05:40 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 09:05:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing
In-Reply-To: <002b01d73e0a$e8b28e50$ba17aaf0$@gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn_sTbpbZBQg93zUTF-DjK78M3qU_p5iyCxNSVx650u7TQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <002b01d73e0a$e8b28e50$ba17aaf0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B0172C26-7EA0-4A5D-9DED-AE0DC94A9B04@hxcore.ol>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 12:01:31 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 11:01:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all,
Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get some
load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have Smitty 5 speed.
Any ideas?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  2 12:15:54 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 11:15:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>

Did you have your engine balanced at rebuild? If you did, have you 
changed out the clutch or flywheel since?

On 5/2/2021 11:01 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> Howdy all,
> Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get 
> some load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have 
> Smitty 5 speed.
> Any ideas?
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun May  2 14:33:56 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 16:33:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJXdc1Jsst10oTn5zz1ZPXaC5HmzXZCBvfyCET4JfKFOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Do you get the resonance just holding the RPM at 2800 in neutral?
That should eliminate anything to do with the gearbox.

M

On Sun., May 2, 2021, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Did you have your engine balanced at rebuild? If you did, have you
> changed out the clutch or flywheel since?
>
> On 5/2/2021 11:01 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> > Howdy all,
> > Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get
> > some load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have
> > Smitty 5 speed.
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > 1959 AH 100-6
> > 1967 MGB
> > Milwaukie, OR
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Sun May  2 16:13:31 2021
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 18:13:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] MORE:  Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <055901d73f62$3f518150$bdf483f0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <ed7abf71-ed3d-ba87-1446-fc7bac0f159a@roadrunner.com>
 <055901d73f62$3f518150$bdf483f0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <d88b2f73-a563-bd83-0332-99164c8309d3@roadrunner.com>

Perfect info! Thank you, Bruce.

== Alex


On 5/2/2021 10:48 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> The bracket that secures the dip switch to the floor is secured by 2 
> screws, one above and below the switch itself on the bracket feet. The 
> switch is then secured to the bracket by 2 screws from the back side.? 
> Hence, you have to remove the whole unit to get the switch out.? The 3 
> wires are secured to the switch by screw terminals. ?Be sure to note 
> the position of each color wire.? Getting to the bracket screws is a 
> pain.? A long extension and U-joint or swivel adapter help.
>
> Here?s a photo showing the bracket mounting screws.? You can also see 
> the switch mounting screws protruding through the switch plate.? (I 
> fabricated a dead pedal that mounts under the dip switch bracket, so 
> you can ignore the extraneous metal bits.)
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Alex
> *Sent:* Friday, April 30, 2021 5:24 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch
>
> How is the dip switch mounted on my BT7? ? I need to remove it as it 
> is no longer functional.
>
> Thanks for any info!
>
> == Alex in Maine, "The Blue Mainie' BT7 and 1946 MG-TC.
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 16:36:44 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 15:36:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz898nq79Bw+xXw2uxdYnOZkVAQ1xpZ65VJ-TN-K7TfYuXA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes on engine.
Yes to switching flywheel to BJ8 and special disk for toyota

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, May 2, 2021, 11:18 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Did you have your engine balanced at rebuild? If you did, have you
> changed out the clutch or flywheel since?
>
> On 5/2/2021 11:01 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> > Howdy all,
> > Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get
> > some load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have
> > Smitty 5 speed.
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > 1959 AH 100-6
> > 1967 MGB
> > Milwaukie, OR
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun May  2 16:51:26 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 18:51:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz898nq79Bw+xXw2uxdYnOZkVAQ1xpZ65VJ-TN-K7TfYuXA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz898nq79Bw+xXw2uxdYnOZkVAQ1xpZ65VJ-TN-K7TfYuXA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+Bzy+xRP5y72Fw=HCSrZoHNtZMet_Zjk6Vs0++HVkqVQ@mail.gmail.com>

"Yes on engine".
Well to be honest that opens a whole can of worms.
Engine balance would certainly be the first suspicion and that involves a
total rebuild.
Sometimes an exhaust system can develop a "resonance " which if caused by a
muffler will usually result in it cracking eventually.
I've encountered various other sources  ...
Badly balanced and mounted alternator.
Disintegrating front balancer
 & Loose flywheel
Come to mind.

Time for some diagnosis.

M


On Sun., May 2, 2021, 6:38 p.m. i erbs, <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes on engine.
> Yes to switching flywheel to BJ8 and special disk for toyota
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Sun, May 2, 2021, 11:18 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Did you have your engine balanced at rebuild? If you did, have you
>> changed out the clutch or flywheel since?
>>
>> On 5/2/2021 11:01 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
>> > Howdy all,
>> > Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get
>> > some load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have
>> > Smitty 5 speed.
>> > Any ideas?
>> >
>> > Ira Erbs
>> > 1959 AH 100-6
>> > 1967 MGB
>> > Milwaukie, OR
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 16:54:40 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 15:54:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+Bzy+xRP5y72Fw=HCSrZoHNtZMet_Zjk6Vs0++HVkqVQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz898nq79Bw+xXw2uxdYnOZkVAQ1xpZ65VJ-TN-K7TfYuXA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+Bzy+xRP5y72Fw=HCSrZoHNtZMet_Zjk6Vs0++HVkqVQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88FH9aKt-otobGSJbdgcJp8J2sWi_N2VekYGUxh+En22w@mail.gmail.com>

The engine was balanced when I rebuilt it. Replaced the flywheel to
accommodate a late model clutch cover, but did not balance the new flywheel.
How do you check a harmonic balance?
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, May 2, 2021, 3:51 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

> "Yes on engine".
> Well to be honest that opens a whole can of worms.
> Engine balance would certainly be the first suspicion and that involves a
> total rebuild.
> Sometimes an exhaust system can develop a "resonance " which if caused by
> a muffler will usually result in it cracking eventually.
> I've encountered various other sources  ...
> Badly balanced and mounted alternator.
> Disintegrating front balancer
>  & Loose flywheel
> Come to mind.
>
> Time for some diagnosis.
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., May 2, 2021, 6:38 p.m. i erbs, <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes on engine.
>> Yes to switching flywheel to BJ8 and special disk for toyota
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> 1959 AH 100-6
>> 1967 MGB
>> Milwaukie, OR
>>
>> On Sun, May 2, 2021, 11:18 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Did you have your engine balanced at rebuild? If you did, have you
>>> changed out the clutch or flywheel since?
>>>
>>> On 5/2/2021 11:01 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
>>> > Howdy all,
>>> > Been driving my car a lot lately and I've been reminded that I get
>>> > some load resonance between 2800 and 2900 rpm, in any gear. Have
>>> > Smitty 5 speed.
>>> > Any ideas?
>>> >
>>> > Ira Erbs
>>> > 1959 AH 100-6
>>> > 1967 MGB
>>> > Milwaukie, OR
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun May  2 17:21:26 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 16:21:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Resonance at 2900 rpm
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88FH9aKt-otobGSJbdgcJp8J2sWi_N2VekYGUxh+En22w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_pZBrNBvWjcFGXhfAWYyJKYExYGhADwqZ9XhxAx7Uy8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <204045ec-0b11-ade6-6722-39b0424a156a@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz898nq79Bw+xXw2uxdYnOZkVAQ1xpZ65VJ-TN-K7TfYuXA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+Bzy+xRP5y72Fw=HCSrZoHNtZMet_Zjk6Vs0++HVkqVQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CABXhz88FH9aKt-otobGSJbdgcJp8J2sWi_N2VekYGUxh+En22w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37ACFF0B-F07F-442E-824F-27A288F4D5D1@hxcore.ol>

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From manifold at telus.net  Sun May  2 17:34:01 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 16:34:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Message-ID: <FB605D5D-3896-457B-9E7E-4264CCB5A1A3@hxcore.ol>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun May  2 19:21:42 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 01:21:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Message-ID: <f62ed62018b9c57140411ece32e2af2069c2d7be@webmail>

Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and a
fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or
guides. After lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down
wobble and then tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post.
(photos)
You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle is
Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up
threads. Don't use SAE.
Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

	Hello, 

	What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like
10-32 but a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone
have a good procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first
then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to
0.050? but no better. 

	Harold 

	
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun May  2 20:11:05 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 19:11:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>

The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded
fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below
the boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a
different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to
BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the
later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A.
If the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market
for a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap
they list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and
another UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think
it is safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of
engagement holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?
Mike MacLean
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun May  2 20:38:01 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 22:38:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLr-p-_VEhfv6kA_Bb0tjnfw9897-S_8tjjob4SbGzPUQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am pretty sure that the straps are the same length Mike.
There is a difference in the positioning of the rivets that attach the
fiber strips to the straps.
I have found that if can get a nut started just tighten it a bit and things
will sinch down enough.

M

On Sun., May 2, 2021, 10:12 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded
> fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below
> the boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a
> different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to
> BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the
> later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A.
> If the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market
> for a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap
> they list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and
> another UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think
> it is safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of
> engagement holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun May  2 21:16:43 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 03:16:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25077B44D8D7EEDD2D9005ACD15B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Kilmartin also sells the tank straps and they only list a number for all the models. I checked the AH Spares catalogue and they list only one model of straps and it shows it is for the 6 cyl. Only. I am currently working on a BN2 and removed the tank straps as they were in poor condition and outwardly, they look the same as all previous ones I have seen.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael MacLean via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 2, 2021 9:13 PM
To: Ahealey help<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps

The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below the boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A. If the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market for a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap they list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and another UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think it is safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of engagement holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?
Mike MacLean

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun May  2 21:39:49 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 20:39:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+a6wkcHxaLuivpuUmEkNLUKaqRtReCDKo+PC=cEXYuhoQ@mail.gmail.com>

The difference between early and later is not in length but in the threads
of the T shaped bolt that goes through the floor. Early ones are BSF
threaded.  If you can get a thread or two on the T bolt you can snug it up.
Maybe you need to use thinner padding underneath the tank. Get a big friend
to press on the strap and tank to help push the T bolt through enough to
grab with a nut. It took me three cycles. First with a Very thin washer and
tightened as far as I dared. Second with a thicker bigger flat washer. And
Finally adding a lockwasher.
Perseverance furthers.
-Roland

On Sun, May 2, 2021, 7:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded
> fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below
> the boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a
> different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to
> BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the
> later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A.
> If the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market
> for a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap
> they list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and
> another UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think
> it is safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of
> engagement holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun May  2 21:50:51 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 13:50:51 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB25077B44D8D7EEDD2D9005ACD15B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB25077B44D8D7EEDD2D9005ACD15B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <00ee01d73fcf$8382da50$8a888ef0$@tpg.com.au>

G'day

 

Many years ago when I was fitting the freshly painted tank and new straps to
the BN3 (standard 100 steel tank) I had devil of a time making the straps
fit.

 

Eventually I used the trolley jack and length of timber to gingerly push up
the boot floor and had two of my then young kids sit on the top of the tank.
After gaining a couple of threads it all bolted together.

 

Recently fitted a new tank to a BJ8 and had no problem.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean
Caron via Healeys
Sent: Monday, 3 May 2021 1:17 PM
To: Michael MacLean; Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tank Straps

 

Kilmartin also sells the tank straps and they only list a number for all the
models. I checked the AH Spares catalogue and they list only one model of
straps and it shows it is for the 6 cyl. Only. I am currently working on a
BN2 and removed the tank straps as they were in poor condition and
outwardly, they look the same as all previous ones I have seen. 

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: May 2, 2021 9:13 PM
To: Ahealey help <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps

 

The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded
fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below the
boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a
different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to
BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the
later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A. If
the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market for
a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap they
list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and another
UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think it is
safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of engagement
holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?

Mike MacLean

 

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sun May  2 23:29:37 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Sun, 02 May 2021 22:29:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?noise?=
Message-ID: <20210503052937.6816.qmail@server278.com>

worked on a BT7 recently which had a noise in the right rear wheel when applying the brakes.  shifted things around to see 
if it was shoes, drums, whatever.  it did not go away and seems to be prevalent when cornering, decelerating or braking.  
suspected a bearing but no noise when on stands, backing up or straight down the road.  going to check if drum is touching 
backing plate when braking.  i did adjust the pegs so they just touch the shoes but nothing changed. any ideas appreciated.

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 07:54:20 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 06:54:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] noise
In-Reply-To: <20210503052937.6816.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210503052937.6816.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88Wk_cFZh0-zg_ndRbROjNRdUpf21pQXdhi=fQwYrp9sQ@mail.gmail.com>

Emergency break needs adjusting?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, May 2, 2021, 10:33 PM healeymanjim via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> worked on a BT7 recently which had a noise in the right rear wheel when
> applying the brakes.  shifted things around to see
> if it was shoes, drums, whatever.  it did not go away and seems to be
> prevalent when cornering, decelerating or braking.
> suspected a bearing but no noise when on stands, backing up or straight
> down the road.  going to check if drum is touching
> backing plate when braking.  i did adjust the pegs so they just touch the
> shoes but nothing changed. any ideas appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Mon May  3 08:22:10 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 15:22:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] noise
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Wk_cFZh0-zg_ndRbROjNRdUpf21pQXdhi=fQwYrp9sQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Wk_cFZh0-zg_ndRbROjNRdUpf21pQXdhi=fQwYrp9sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <13A0849B-E312-4ABF-8DC6-FABEAFA6FF8E@gmail.com>

Is the E-brake cable (Uk=handbrake) floating where it enters the tunnel? The cable outer can touch the prop shaft if not clipped back. Applying the brakes loosens the E-brake cable and it may drift into the prop on those occasions.
JM2C

Alan - from my iPad

> On 3 May 2021, at 14:56, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Emergency break needs adjusting?
> 
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> 
>> On Sun, May 2, 2021, 10:33 PM healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> worked on a BT7 recently which had a noise in the right rear wheel when applying the brakes.  shifted things around to see 
>> if it was shoes, drums, whatever.  it did not go away and seems to be prevalent when cornering, decelerating or braking.  
>> suspected a bearing but no noise when on stands, backing up or straight down the road.  going to check if drum is touching 
>> backing plate when braking.  i did adjust the pegs so they just touch the shoes but nothing changed. any ideas appreciated.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon May  3 08:41:06 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 10:41:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
In-Reply-To: <00ee01d73fcf$8382da50$8a888ef0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAL4ZEOOjnTJ5jrE+sOTays-xE+7wpyTnLNW78tGw+pwe6z+PoA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB25077B44D8D7EEDD2D9005ACD15B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ee01d73fcf$8382da50$8a888ef0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <40F8E45B-C9AF-436F-98CB-1796C0B9C594@rogers.com>

I remember I had to rivet in an extra piece to my BJ8 tank straps, or I never would have made them fit. In the middle of the strap, under the armacord, no one can see it anyway. I think that the measurement required will vary from car to car.

Stephen, BJ8

> On May 2, 2021, at 11:50 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> 
> G?day
>  
> Many years ago when I was fitting the freshly painted tank and new straps to the BN3 (standard 100 steel tank) I had devil of a time making the straps fit.
>  
> Eventually I used the trolley jack and length of timber to gingerly push up the boot floor and had two of my then young kids sit on the top of the tank. After gaining a couple of threads it all bolted together.
>  
> Recently fitted a new tank to a BJ8 and had no problem.
>  
> Hoo Roo
>  
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>  
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron via Healeys
> Sent: Monday, 3 May 2021 1:17 PM
> To: Michael MacLean; Ahealey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tank Straps
>  
> Kilmartin also sells the tank straps and they only list a number for all the models. I checked the AH Spares catalogue and they list only one model of straps and it shows it is for the 6 cyl. Only. I am currently working on a BN2 and removed the tank straps as they were in poor condition and outwardly, they look the same as all previous ones I have seen. 
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>  
> From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: May 2, 2021 9:13 PM
> To: Ahealey help <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Tank Straps
>  
> The tank straps I bought don't seem to be quite long enough.  The threaded fitting that is bolted to the boot floor of my BN2 barely protrude below the boot floor to get a nut on.  When I look in the Moss catalog there is a different part number for the BN1/2 tank strap and another for the BN4 to BJ8 strap.  Do I take it the BN1/2 strap is a different length than the later version? Of course the BN1/2 tank strap in the Moss catalog is N/A. If the early straps are longer than the later ones, I will be in the market for a pair, used or new.  Looking at the suppliers in the UK the tank strap they list says it is appropriate for BN1 through BJ8 for one supplier and another UK supplier just does not list the BN1/2 tank strap.  I don't think it is safe the way the tank strap I have only has a few threads of engagement holding it to the floor.  Any ideas on this subject?
> Mike MacLean
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 09:14:12 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 08:14:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bt7 mkii centershift carpet
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-W-Ki4gRwLQpUA__xks5BacpH_rX3L8asitYFqQ3L3Cw@mail.gmail.com>

Someone was looking for transmission cover carpet in blk.
I found it. Let me know if still interested

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon May  3 11:38:31 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 17:38:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Message-ID: <7bf82ed49d1fb899671035380df1b1aa82a304c5@webmail>

Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is
too fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will
drive you crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close
and could not effect a change. Me too. That is probably as good as it
will get. I think the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the
wheel-if you see runout try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels
I did I rated them as the best-worse and used #5 for the spare,
putting the best on the fronts. They are very close to "good" as round
goes. A wonderful theory that in practical use has some forgiveness.
You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and they
may be able to do a tighter finish. Folks swear that their trued,
shaved, rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow.
A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on
all the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo
them later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub
nubs to seal in grease and seal out water. May work for awhile. I also
ran a 2" duct tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the
rubber rim seal (which does not cover them well.)
The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you
needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on
the shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun
experience to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" 
To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

	Hank, 

	Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening
and tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high
spots and low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around. 

	I agree this will tedious no matter what. 

	Harold 

	FROM: gradea1 at charter.net
SENT: Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
TO: Harold Manifold
CC: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and
a fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or
guides. After lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down
wobble and then tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post.
(photos)  

	You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle
is Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up
threads. Don't use SAE.   

	Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank


	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Hello, 

	What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like
10-32 but a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone
have a good procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first
then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to
0.050? but no better. 

	Harold   

	
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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Mon May  3 12:20:04 2021
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 18:20:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
In-Reply-To: <7bf82ed49d1fb899671035380df1b1aa82a304c5@webmail>
References: <7bf82ed49d1fb899671035380df1b1aa82a304c5@webmail>
Message-ID: <YTOPR0101MB220175872F2E00D3AEF38C43E65B9@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels over the past thirty years, starting with replacing  spokes on my Made in India Dunlop chrome 60 spoke set.
I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I ended up purchasing spokes and nipples in bulk  direct from Dayton.
The information I was given by them was that truing wheels to plus or minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when building new wheels!

Laurie Wilford

Sent from my Galaxy



-------- Original message --------
From: Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is too fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will drive you crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close and could not effect a change. Me too.  That is probably as good as it will get.  I think the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the wheel-if you see runout try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels I did I rated them as the best-worse and used #5 for the spare, putting the best on the fronts. They are very close to "good" as round goes. A wonderful theory that in practical use has some forgiveness.

You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and they may be able to do a tighter finish.  Folks swear that their trued, shaved, rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow.

A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on all the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo them later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub nubs to seal in grease and seal out water.  May work for awhile. I also ran a 2" duct tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the rubber rim seal (which does not cover them well.)

The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on the shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun experience to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "Harold Manifold"
To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
Cc:
Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

Hank,

Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening and tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high spots and low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around.

I agree this will tedious no matter what.

Harold

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and a fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or guides.  After  lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down wobble and then tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post. (photos)

You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle is Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up threads. Don't use SAE.

Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank

-----------------------------------------
From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc:
Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Hello,

What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like 10-32 but a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone have a good procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to 0.050? but no better.

Harold


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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon May  3 13:16:28 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 19:16:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Message-ID: <4b4ee0bd19516e95c1d60618979dd9006edc33cd@webmail>

As a kid with no money, in the early '70, I thought it would be great
to have chrome wire wheels on the finished example of the A-H100 that
I had just disassembled. They would just look like Donald Healey's
show cars.
So, I took the wheels I had, picked up some additional used wheels,
including one new affordable one I located, and disassembled all of
them, breaking lots of spokes as I went along...until I eventually had
enough good spokes and nibs for 5 wheels. Remember this was the 1970s
so parts for these cars were nil and so was the money to buy new
chrome ones. The only affordable thing at that time was chrome
plating. I had 5 wheels and hubs and countless spokes and nibs
re-plated for $150!
I polished all the spokes and nibs in a hobby rock tumbler used to
shine beach rocks to gemlike appearance...took hours and days but not
$$. The chrome plater assured me he would "anneal" the spokes so as
not to get brittle in the process.
Forty-five years later they are on the car after spending hours
assembling and truing. Was all that worth the effort, that now you can
just order an Indian set from Moss for a grand? I don't know if a
labor of love counts in this case, but I get lots of positive comments
on the finished "affordable" product. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Laurie Wilford" 
To: "gradea1 at charter.net", "Harold Manifold"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Monday May 3 2021 11:20:06AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

 I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels over the past thirty
years, starting with replacing spokes on my Made in India Dunlop
chrome 60 spoke set.  I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I
ended up purchasing spokes and nipples in bulk direct from Dayton. The
information I was given by them was that truing wheels to plus or
minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when building new wheels! 
 Laurie Wilford  
  Sent from my Galaxy  

 -------- Original message -------- From: Henry G Leach via Healeys 
Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To: 'Harold Manifold'  Cc:
"'healeys at autox.team.net'"  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing
Wheels 
 Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is
too fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will
drive you crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close
and could not effect a change. Me too. That is probably as good as it
will get. I think the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the
wheel-if you see runout try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels
I did I rated them as the best-worse and used #5 for the spare,
putting the best on the fronts. They are very close to "good" as round
goes. A wonderful theory that in practical use has some forgiveness. 
 You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and
they may be able to do a tighter finish. Folks swear that their trued,
shaved, rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow. 
 A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on
all the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo
them later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub
nubs to seal in grease and seal out water. May work for awhile. I also
ran a 2" duct tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the
rubber rim seal (which does not cover them well.) 
 The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you
needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on
the shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun
experience to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Harold Manifold"
 To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

	Hank, 

	Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening
and tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high
spots and low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around. 

	I agree this will tedious no matter what. 

	Harold 

	FROM: gradea1 at charter.net
SENT: Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
TO: Harold Manifold
CC: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and
a fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or
guides. After lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down
wobble and then tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post.
(photos)  

	You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle
is Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up
threads. Don't use SAE.   

	Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank


	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Hello, 

	What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like
10-32 but a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone
have a good procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first
then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to
0.050? but no better. 

	Harold   

	
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May  3 13:43:28 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 15:43:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tank straps
References: <FDBD4977-10B9-4201-BAD1-D6F0123571B4.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FDBD4977-10B9-4201-BAD1-D6F0123571B4@aol.com>

Listers
From the factory parts list there appears to be 3 different parts numbers for the 100 -3000?s. 
In looking what I have on the shelf
There was a noticeable difference, not in overall length, but where the small rivets that hold the insulation, were placed. For most straps I have, including two in our 100?s, 
measuring from the forward end, the rivets started at 2 inches, next 4, next 17.75 and last 24.5 inches. I have several others that are 2.5,9,13.5 and 20 inches. 
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Mon May  3 14:42:03 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 13:42:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
In-Reply-To: <4b4ee0bd19516e95c1d60618979dd9006edc33cd@webmail>
References: <4b4ee0bd19516e95c1d60618979dd9006edc33cd@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMHF_4gBCzw_MK9DSRygRA_Z7YwJLNZt2J=yPap35RfAA@mail.gmail.com>

I have brand new Daytons on my BN2.  Not used yet at this point.  Should
they be tried OK from the factory?
Mike MacLean

On Mon, May 3, 2021, 12:24 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As a kid with no money, in the early '70, I thought it would be great to
> have chrome wire wheels on the finished example of the A-H100 that I had
> just disassembled. They would just look like Donald Healey's show cars.
>
> So, I took the wheels I had, picked up some additional used wheels,
> including one new affordable one I located, and disassembled all of them,
> breaking lots of spokes as I went along..until I eventually had enough good
> spokes and nibs for 5 wheels.  Remember this was the 1970s so parts for
> these cars were nil and so was the money to buy new chrome ones. The only
> affordable thing at that time was chrome plating. I had 5 wheels and hubs
> and countless spokes and nibs re-plated for $150!
>
> I polished all the spokes and nibs in a hobby rock tumbler used to shine
> beach rocks to gemlike appearance...took hours and days but not $$. The
> chrome plater assured me he would "anneal" the spokes so as not to get
> brittle in the process
>
> Forty-five years later they are on the car after spending hours assembling
> and truing. Was all that worth the effort, that now you can just order an
> Indian set from Moss for a grand?  I don't know if a labor of love counts
> in this case, but I get lots of positive comments on the finished
> "affordable" product. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Laurie Wilford"
> To: "gradea1 at charter.net", "Harold Manifold"
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Monday May 3 2021 11:20:06AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels over the past thirty
> years, starting with replacing  spokes on my Made in India Dunlop chrome 60
> spoke set.
> I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I ended up purchasing spokes
> and nipples in bulk  direct from Dayton.
> The information I was given by them was that truing wheels to plus or
> minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when building new wheels!
>
> Laurie Wilford
>
> Sent from my Galaxy
>
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is too
> fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will drive you
> crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close and could not
> effect a change. Me too.  That is probably as good as it will get.  I think
> the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the wheel-if you see runout
> try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels I did I rated them as the
> best-worse and used #5 for the spare, putting the best on the fronts. They
> are very close to "good" as round goes. A wonderful theory that in
> practical use has some forgiveness.
>
> You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and they may
> be able to do a tighter finish.  Folks swear that their trued, shaved,
> rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow.
>
> A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on all
> the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo them
> later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub nubs to seal
> in grease and seal out water.  May work for awhile. I also ran a 2" duct
> tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the rubber rim seal
> (which does not cover them well.)
>
> The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you
> needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on the
> shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun experience
> to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Harold Manifold"
> To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hank,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening and
> tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high spots and
> low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around.
>
>
>
> I agree this will tedious no matter what.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *From:* gradea1 at charter.net
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
> *To:* Harold Manifold
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
>
>
> Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and a
> fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or guides.
> After  lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down wobble and then
> tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post. (photos)
>
>
>
> You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle is
> Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up threads.
> Don't use SAE.
>
>
>
> Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
> perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like 10-32 but
> a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone have a good
> procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first then Wobble. I
> did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to 0.050? but no better.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sat May  1 13:18:21 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 21:18:21 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
Message-ID: <1766392484.110815.1619896701173@mail.ziggo.nl>

You can use an aluminium or a fibre washer as an alternative. Just as effective as copper. Available at most car parts stores all over the world.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sun May  2 15:13:06 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Bob Begani)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 17:13:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing
In-Reply-To: <B0172C26-7EA0-4A5D-9DED-AE0DC94A9B04@hxcore.ol>
References: <B0172C26-7EA0-4A5D-9DED-AE0DC94A9B04@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <4FE24176-3736-4CF9-A4B6-5418052B50EC@gmail.com>

Harold:

Thank you for the information and the only pictures I have seen of the rear I
Of the engine, mounting plate and gasket. Know we know what to consider when we remove the trans to replace the clutch disc and will remove the mounting plate all next winter. Meanwhile I have installed a stainless steel bowl filled with oil absorbing sheets under the weep hole and the mounting plate to catch the oil.  It is held up with outdoor extreme Velcro straps. 

Thanks to everyone for there comments

Bob Begani

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2021, at 12:05 PM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Bob,
>  
> I was at my local engine shop yesterday that has 3 Healey 6 cylinder engines in various states of rebuild my engine being one of them. After reading about your situation I wanted to make sure mine would not experience any leaks. I took a few pictures and talked to the rebuilder. We identified 4 possible points where oil can leak out and end up in the bottom of the bell housing. These comments correspond to the numbers on the picture.
>  
> The plug at the end of the oil gallery has been removed as part of prepping the block for the hot tank. This shop replaces the pressed in plug with a threaded plug and commented the gasket is not sufficient if the plug is left out.
> The end of the camshaft area where the gasket is narrow. The recommendation is to prepare both surfaces as smooth as possible and use a small amount of RTV sealant to help the seal.
> The infamous Archimedes? screw, but should not be an issue if the rear seal conversion was done properly. There is always the diaper solution.
> Too much material was removed from the rear mounting plate for the crankshaft rear seal conversion and the opening is below the bottom of the gasket. The rear mounting plate in this picture has been modified for the Dennis Welch square rear seal and the minimum amount to fit he seal was removed. If you compare the two pictures there is not much gasket area left and a small amount of RTV will help the seal.
>  
> Unfortunately, there is no way to get to the root of the issue without removing the rear mounting plate.
>  
> I hope this helps?.. Harold
>  
> From: Bob Begani via Healeys
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 3:01 PM
> To: Gary Anderson; healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc: George Walker
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing
>  
> Gary:
>  
> Thanks for your comments.  I had thought of such a diaper pan for my situation, until I can remove the transmission and try and fix the problem as there is a very large puddle when coming to a halt after driving at high speeds for a long distance.
>  
> On the same note, my German friend who raced British and European cars mentioned that on one occasion in the middle of a race the amount of oil had caused the clutch to slip.  One of the pit crew suggested that there may be a hole in the top of the bell housing so you can pour diesel fuel through the hole and flush the oil out off the clutch.  The car did have such a hole so they were able to keep it in the race.  I looked my BJ8 does not have a flushing hole in the bell housing, so I must live with a slippage in 4th gear for a while.
>  
> Meanwhile, PVC system applying negative pressure in the crankcase has reduced the leakage to a pint of oil every 100 miles at highway speed of 60 MPH and above   Not acceptable on a new rebuild. Either the Archimedes screw is not doing its? job or the gasket or?
>  
>  
> 67 BJ8
> Bob Begani
>  
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Gary Anderson
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 4:35 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing
>  
> Many years ago, at a panel during a Healey West Coast Meet in Oregon, I took the opportunity to ask Geoff Healey about the issue of oil dripping out of the hole in the bottom of the bell housing when the car would come to a halt after driving a long distance. 
> He gave us the general story that that was actually an intentional design feature, with the reverse archimedes screw typically doing its job and slinging the oil back in the sump at the rear end of the crank shaft. Of course, when the car came to a halt, the oil pressure would reverse and some oil would seep into the bell housing. To deal with that, there is a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing so the oil doesn't pool up. To make sure the hole stays open, a cotter pin is placed in the hole, with the legs projecting out the bottom.
>  
> But then he chuckled and told the following story. When he and Donald were raising street versions of the first Hundreds at Le Mans -- generally for the international publicity benefits -- they anticipated that the race stewards stationed as observers in each of the pits would notice the pool of oil where the car had been sitting when it came in for a pit stop, which would have been grounds for disqualification. So Roger Menadue fastened small pans, contoured to be fastened under the bell housing hole. During the race, the pans would be stuffed with diapers, and that would take care of catching the oil for several stops. During stops when the steward wasn't looking, a mechanic would pull of a filled pan and fasten on a new empty pan. Worked like a charm: no oil leaks in the pits and, as we know, the street-spec Healeys, complete with bumpers and grilles, finished the race in respectable fashion, garnering good publicity and giving rise to the optional "Le Mans kit" that was available from DMHCO.
>  
> And that's the rest of the story.
>  
> Gary Anderson       
>  
> <Back Plate Modification.jpg>
> <End of Block.jpg>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Tue May  4 09:52:49 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 16:52:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>

Gentlemen

I believe that you are confusing the way the switch is fitted on the 100
where it does through the footwell with later cars where it has its own
bracket

On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:12, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> It was *designed* to go in from the inside of the footwell since the
> Bakelite insulator is the same diamond shape as the hole in the foot well.
>
> HOWEVER, as designed is not how they were produced! If you install them
> this way, they will short out!  Ask Roger Moment and Richard Gordon how
> this does not work.
>
> So in practice, at the factory the switch was inserted from the
> out/underside of the footwell.  See photos of the correctly installed
> switch on my car.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:05 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the
>> diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2?
>> Gary H
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> To: 'Michael MacLean' <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>
>> Hello
>>
>> It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6
>> and 3000s.
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> MacLean via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM
>> *To:* Ahealey help
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>
>> Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the
>> car or outside from underneath?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue May  4 10:37:54 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 12:37:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLLcK9MGiW=X-PLd9gFzAphmr6q+=ZtO1-B-_U3s-M=Yg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Curt is correct regarding how the switch was installed in the 100.
For confirmation these 2 pics show how it was originally installed in B.#174
[image: image.png]
The ragged edges of the asbestos are original and seem to indicate that it
was broken away manually to make room for the dip switch.
The overlength screws are what were originally used.

[image: image.png]
>From inside only the screws and button of the switch were visible.

M



On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 11:53 AM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

> Gentlemen
>
> I believe that you are confusing the way the switch is fitted on the 100
> where it does through the footwell with later cars where it has its own
> bracket
>
> On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:12, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It was *designed* to go in from the inside of the footwell since the
>> Bakelite insulator is the same diamond shape as the hole in the foot well.
>>
>> HOWEVER, as designed is not how they were produced! If you install them
>> this way, they will short out!  Ask Roger Moment and Richard Gordon how
>> this does not work.
>>
>> So in practice, at the factory the switch was inserted from the
>> out/underside of the footwell.  See photos of the correctly installed
>> switch on my car.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:05 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the
>>> diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2?
>>> Gary H
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> To: 'Michael MacLean' <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>>
>>> Hello
>>>
>>> It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6
>>> and 3000s.
>>>
>>> Hoo Roo
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>
>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
>>> MacLean via Healeys
>>> *Sent:* Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM
>>> *To:* Ahealey help
>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>>
>>> Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the
>>> car or outside from underneath?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue May  4 11:12:00 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 10:12:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLLcK9MGiW=X-PLd9gFzAphmr6q+=ZtO1-B-_U3s-M=Yg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLLcK9MGiW=X-PLd9gFzAphmr6q+=ZtO1-B-_U3s-M=Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5gt_u54wgKo2njDyZfnZ-f9UDR6hABn7w9QS-yy-yP+Q@mail.gmail.com>

if this is true--and it certainly sounds so--it is an early example of why
the Brits lost hold of what they once owned (along with bicycles,
motorcycles,  etc).

Their seeming national proclivity to "muddle through" and/or tolerate the
shoddy rather than fix and improve wound up opening the car and other
markets to others, particularly the Japanese, who took the British
end-product and easily made it better by fixing simple crappy things of
which the dip switch is an example.

Best-Michael Oritt

On Tue, May 4, 2021, 9:38 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Yes Curt is correct regarding how the switch was installed in the 100.
> For confirmation these 2 pics show how it was originally installed in
> B.#174
> [image: image.png]
> The ragged edges of the asbestos are original and seem to indicate that it
> was broken away manually to make room for the dip switch.
> The overlength screws are what were originally used.
>
> [image: image.png]
> From inside only the screws and button of the switch were visible.
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 11:53 AM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Gentlemen
>>
>> I believe that you are confusing the way the switch is fitted on the 100
>> where it does through the footwell with later cars where it has its own
>> bracket
>>
>> On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:12, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It was *designed* to go in from the inside of the footwell since the
>>> Bakelite insulator is the same diamond shape as the hole in the foot well.
>>>
>>> HOWEVER, as designed is not how they were produced! If you install them
>>> this way, they will short out!  Ask Roger Moment and Richard Gordon how
>>> this does not work.
>>>
>>> So in practice, at the factory the switch was inserted from the
>>> out/underside of the footwell.  See photos of the correctly installed
>>> switch on my car.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Curt
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:05 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the
>>>> diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2?
>>>> Gary H
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> To: 'Michael MacLean' <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
>>>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am
>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>>>
>>>> Hello
>>>>
>>>> It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6
>>>> and 3000s.
>>>>
>>>> Hoo Roo
>>>>
>>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
>>>> MacLean via Healeys
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM
>>>> *To:* Ahealey help
>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Dip Switch
>>>>
>>>> Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the
>>>> car or outside from underneath?
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue May  4 12:02:56 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 11:02:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bt7 mkii centershift carpet
In-Reply-To: <004201d7410f$7d3243c0$7796cb40$@gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-W-Ki4gRwLQpUA__xks5BacpH_rX3L8asitYFqQ3L3Cw@mail.gmail.com>
 <004201d7410f$7d3243c0$7796cb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz887srtO8wwDkdX8hM682ndJEvSzQfPsoOMv=XT2bxMDLA@mail.gmail.com>

I am a source. Someone asked for black bt7 centershift tunnel carpet. Found
my stash looking for stuff for my car.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, May 4, 2021, 11:01 AM <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ira ? I might have an interest. Are you referring folks to the source, or
> are you the source now?
>
>
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *i erbs
> *Sent:* Monday, May 3, 2021 11:14 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bt7 mkii centershift carpet
>
>
>
> Someone was looking for transmission cover carpet in blk.
>
> I found it. Let me know if still interested
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue May  4 13:51:13 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 12:51:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0ca501d7411e$d6bd3f30$8437bd90$@roadrunner.com>

Alex had a question about the dip switch on his BT7, Mike on a BN1 or 2.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john harper
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 8:53 AM
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch

 

Gentlemen

 

I believe that you are confusing the way the switch is fitted on the 100 where it does through the footwell with later cars where it has its own bracket

 

On Tue, 4 May 2021 at 16:12, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com <mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com> > wrote:

It was designed to go in from the inside of the footwell since the Bakelite insulator is the same diamond shape as the hole in the foot well.  

 

HOWEVER, as designed is not how they were produced! If you install them this way, they will short out!  Ask Roger Moment and Richard Gordon how this does not work.

 

So in practice, at the factory the switch was inserted from the out/underside of the footwell.  See photos of the correctly installed switch on my car.

 

Cheers,

 

Curt

 

On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:05 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2?
Gary H

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
To: 'Michael MacLean' <springer.mike51 at gmail.com <mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch

Hello

 

It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 and 3000s.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch

 

Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car or outside from underneath?

Mike MacLean

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue May  4 16:18:06 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 15:18:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dead
Message-ID: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>

A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.? Hagerty 
brought it home.? Diagnosis:

It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.

Lots of fuel

Spark

Pretty sure there is air.

Checked all the voltages, all per spec.

Changed condenser, no improvement.

Rotor and points are new.

Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad.? Checked 
the wire, and it wasn't even connected.? Disconnected this wire at the 
coil and using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground.? Aha!? 
Intermittent ground!? Fired it up; a little reluctant but it started up 
and seemed to run ok.? Drove around the block a few times, came home and 
patted myself on the back.? Next day took it out for a little longer run 
(2 miles) and it began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from home.? Nursed it home.

Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been very 
hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few seconds 
before it catches.? Decided that maybe even though there was spark, 
maybe it wasn't strong enough.? Bought a new coil.

After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great.? Have been 
taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine.? I hate to 
say it is cured, but seems to be.

Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.

Mike

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From ryan at jimryan.com  Tue May  4 15:53:05 2021
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 17:53:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crunch Washers
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJD3QcReCk1vzZZ0rFVCzmMkH=ZxdYF71uGWyS-3=4LMw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn-1uyCW-RFHUCypCfkubfDZ8SoiGQrykgf-j9=-MV8DWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d73ece$440df730$cc29e590$@shaw.ca>
 <CAB3i7LJD3QcReCk1vzZZ0rFVCzmMkH=ZxdYF71uGWyS-3=4LMw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYyVUpGJksEX+GKP-VCLm9S0KZ+Xk8=Rap3oihKUiPQa9A@mail.gmail.com>

https://tinyurl.com/yjkvupvg


On Sat, May 1, 2021, 6:18 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> "I use a regular flat washer with a rubber gasket integral ? can?t
> remember exactly what it?s called at the moment (bonded sealing washer, or
> grommet washer)."
> I believe the official name is Dowty Washer. Developed by Dowty Hydraulics
> for use in aircraft hydraulic systems.
>
> On Sat., May 1, 2021, 5:09 p.m. Earl Kagna via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Gary:
>>
>>
>>
>> I use a regular flat washer with a rubber gasket integral ? can?t
>> remember exactly what it?s called at the moment (bonded sealing washer, or
>> grommet washer).  Use an appropriate sized rubber o-ring to keep it from
>> wandering sideways into the undercut on the drain bolt.
>>
>>
>>
>> I?ve used this system for 30 plus years on both Healeys without leaks or
>> problems, and they don?t have to be replaced at subsequent oil changes.
>> The one on the tri-carb had been on the car for 20 plus years ? a couple of
>> oil changes per year.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you?ve got the drain plug out or the car, take it with you to the
>> auto parts store and fit it up to your satisfaction there.  A couple of
>> dollars should do it.  Pretty sure the washer size is ??.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Earl Kagna
>>
>> Victoria BC
>>
>> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Anderson via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 1, 2021 11:14 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Crunch Washers
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to everyone for your information. I don't think I'm going to pay
>> $20 for a crunch washer, but the information should allow me and my
>> mechanic -- who works on everything from Lotus Europas to Checker lodge
>> buses -- to figure out something that will do the job properly.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Gary
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>> <#m_4584141504901264565_m_-3535008722750149341_m_-2902941277207223858_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue May  4 18:42:08 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 05 May 2021 00:42:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
Message-ID: <d3779b02eb037cd8d13226019ed803935d64f691@webmail>

Michael- Based on the price of them, they are probably ready to use.
You can tell by how much wheel weight is required to have them run
true. 1-2 oz. good; 4-6 oz. or higher, you might have to check them
for runout. You can always mount one on a hub and spin it with a dial
gauge fixed somewhere- over .030" runout and they are in need of
truing. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Ahealey help"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday May 3 2021 1:42:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

 I have brand new Daytons on my BN2. Not used yet at this point.
Should they be tried OK from the factory? Mike MacLean  
 On Mon, May 3, 2021, 12:24 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys  wrote:
  As a kid with no money, in the early '70, I thought it would be
great to have chrome wire wheels on the finished example of the A-H100
that I had just disassembled. They would just look like Donald
Healey's show cars. 
 So, I took the wheels I had, picked up some additional used wheels,
including one new affordable one I located, and disassembled all of
them, breaking lots of spokes as I went along..until I eventually had
enough good spokes and nibs for 5 wheels. Remember this was the 1970s
so parts for these cars were nil and so was the money to buy new
chrome ones. The only affordable thing at that time was chrome
plating. I had 5 wheels and hubs and countless spokes and nibs
re-plated for $150! 
 I polished all the spokes and nibs in a hobby rock tumbler used to
shine beach rocks to gemlike appearance...took hours and days but not
$$. The chrome plater assured me he would "anneal" the spokes so as
not to get brittle in the process 
 Forty-five years later they are on the car after spending hours
assembling and truing. Was all that worth the effort, that now you can
just order an Indian set from Moss for a grand? I don't know if a
labor of love counts in this case, but I get lots of positive comments
on the finished "affordable" product. Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Laurie Wilford"
 To: "gradea1 at charter.net", "Harold Manifold"
 Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Sent: Monday May 3 2021 11:20:06AM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels over the past thirty
years, starting with replacing spokes on my Made in India Dunlop
chrome 60 spoke set.  I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I
ended up purchasing spokes and nipples in bulk direct from Dayton. The
information I was given by them was that truing wheels to plus or
minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when building new wheels! 
 Laurie Wilford  
  Sent from my Galaxy  

 -------- Original message -------- From: Henry G Leach via Healeys 
Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To: 'Harold Manifold'  Cc:
"'healeys at autox.team.net'"  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing
Wheels 
 Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is
too fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will
drive you crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close
and could not effect a change. Me too. That is probably as good as it
will get. I think the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the
wheel-if you see runout try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels
I did I rated them as the best-worse and used #5 for the spare,
putting the best on the fronts. They are very close to "good" as round
goes. A wonderful theory that in practical use has some forgiveness. 
 You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and
they may be able to do a tighter finish. Folks swear that their trued,
shaved, rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow. 
 A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on
all the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo
them later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub
nubs to seal in grease and seal out water. May work for awhile. I also
ran a 2" duct tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the
rubber rim seal (which does not cover them well.) 
 The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you
needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on
the shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun
experience to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Harold Manifold"
 To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels

	Hank, 

	Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening
and tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high
spots and low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around. 

	I agree this will tedious no matter what. 

	Harold 

	FROM: gradea1 at charter.net
SENT: Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
TO: Harold Manifold
CC: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and
a fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or
guides. After lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down
wobble and then tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post.
(photos)  

	You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle
is Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up
threads. Don't use SAE.   

	Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank


	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels  

	Hello, 

	What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like
10-32 but a threading die doesn?t seem to fit. Also, does anyone
have a good procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first
then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to
0.050? but no better. 

	Harold   

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May  4 20:47:12 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 19:47:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dead
In-Reply-To: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>
References: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <48043c27-9d83-651e-22e8-8fcc7b745581@comcast.net>

Of some use, maybe:

I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive ground. 
It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it will 
start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off after 
starting it died. After another charge, it would start but would die if 
I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to drive it away. I 
checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a fast idle it would only 
show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and installed a new VR. Boom: good 
start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice to both move and operate the buck rake.

Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on input 
voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should provide almost 
7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle, but didn't provide 
enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical of coil failures, because 
they have no moving parts and nothing to wear out, and my BJ8 with over 
200K miles still has the original coil as does my BN2 (AFAIK) but it's 
an easy and cheap enough 'fix' to attempt. It's also possible all the 
previous 'fixes,' along with a new coil, put this engine 'over the top.'

Bob

On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>
> A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.? 
> Hagerty brought it home.? Diagnosis:
>
> It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.
>
> Lots of fuel
>
> Spark
>
> Pretty sure there is air.
>
> Checked all the voltages, all per spec.
>
> Changed condenser, no improvement.
>
> Rotor and points are new.
>
> Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad.? Checked 
> the wire, and it wasn't even connected.? Disconnected this wire at the 
> coil and using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground.? Aha!? 
> Intermittent ground!? Fired it up; a little reluctant but it started 
> up and seemed to run ok.? Drove around the block a few times, came 
> home and patted myself on the back.? Next day took it out for a little 
> longer run (2 miles) and it began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from 
> home.? Nursed it home.
>
> Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been 
> very hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few 
> seconds before it catches.? Decided that maybe even though there was 
> spark, maybe it wasn't strong enough.? Bought a new coil.
>
> After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great.? Have 
> been taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine.? I 
> hate to say it is cured, but seems to be.
>
> Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.
>
> Mike
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue May  4 21:51:33 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:51:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] dead
In-Reply-To: <48043c27-9d83-651e-22e8-8fcc7b745581@comcast.net>
References: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>
 <48043c27-9d83-651e-22e8-8fcc7b745581@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ee0c58f1-2e88-8237-3a2e-8362a616f9b2@comcast.net>

Good points, Bob.? (Maybe "points" is not the best word in this case.)? 
I do keep a Battery Minder on the battery whenever in the garage, and 
the voltage is well above 12v, plus it does crank well.? As you 
mentioned, maybe this was a whole lot of things that are now fixed.? In 
any case, so far, so good!? My 10 mile run today was encouraging.

Mike

On 5/4/2021 7:47 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Of some use, maybe:
>
> I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive 
> ground. It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it will 
> start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off after 
> starting it died. After another charge, it would start but would die 
> if I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to drive it away. 
> I checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a fast idle it would 
> only show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and installed a new VR. 
> Boom: good start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice to both move and 
> operate the buck rake.
>
> Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on 
> input voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should 
> provide almost 7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle, but 
> didn't provide enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical of coil 
> failures, because they have no moving parts and nothing to wear out, 
> and my BJ8 with over 200K miles still has the original coil as does my 
> BN2 (AFAIK) but it's an easy and cheap enough 'fix' to attempt. It's 
> also possible all the previous 'fixes,' along with a new coil, put 
> this engine 'over the top.'
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>>
>> A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.? 
>> Hagerty brought it home. Diagnosis:
>>
>> It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.
>>
>> Lots of fuel
>>
>> Spark
>>
>> Pretty sure there is air.
>>
>> Checked all the voltages, all per spec.
>>
>> Changed condenser, no improvement.
>>
>> Rotor and points are new.
>>
>> Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad.? 
>> Checked the wire, and it wasn't even connected.? Disconnected this 
>> wire at the coil and using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to 
>> ground.? Aha! Intermittent ground!? Fired it up; a little reluctant 
>> but it started up and seemed to run ok.? Drove around the block a few 
>> times, came home and patted myself on the back.? Next day took it out 
>> for a little longer run (2 miles) and it began to whimper badly 1/2 
>> mile from home.? Nursed it home.
>>
>> Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been 
>> very hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few 
>> seconds before it catches.? Decided that maybe even though there was 
>> spark, maybe it wasn't strong enough.? Bought a new coil.
>>
>> After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great.? Have 
>> been taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine.? I 
>> hate to say it is cured, but seems to be.
>>
>> Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue May  4 21:52:33 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:52:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Follow up on my idle issues
Message-ID: <CABXhz89gtMc-qObh9kJ3cFhJLkBnupRqN+h2r2ADy5DQku7OwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Reset my points, car idles great. Then the point gap changes and the idle
issues return.Springs seem to be not working and the curve will not adjust
and the car stumbles a bit on hard acceleration. Off to my mechanic to
address the issues. Dialing the car in for my personal epic journey to
Conclave and back to Portland,OR
will update soon
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Tue May  4 23:36:52 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 07:36:52 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Follow up on my idle issues
Message-ID: <524883842.61144.1620193012640@mail.ziggo.nl>

A example of not oiling the centrifugal weights in the bottom of the distributor?? These should be oiled regularly.
If the points gap changes there may be an issue with the quality of the points or perhaps lack of grease on the lobes of the shaft.
The altenative may be to switch to 123ignition on which you can set the advance curve using your laptop or possibly your mobile.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Wed May  5 13:32:42 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 12:32:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Battery Conversion
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>

I have two NOS six volt Lucas reproduction batteries.  They would probably
work just fine for a while, but I would rather simplify by installing a
single 12 volt battery instead.  Does anyone have any pictures, procedures
or components required for this conversion.  I trust sealed batteries like
Optima more than these lead/acid repros.
Mike MacLean
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed May  5 15:22:44 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 14:22:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Battery Conversion
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5nB9KPYq6-iSoOE4LvjjR_ASf5fphMjAOO+8bwAQAyxg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael

I am not near my car to send pics etc but I use a batt with side posts
which makes insulating the top of the batt from the lid unnecessary.  I
don't believe you will find a 12 volt batt that will fit in the original
trays and will have to fashion or buy an aftermarket tray or bracket.

Best-Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 1:33 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have two NOS six volt Lucas reproduction batteries.  They would probably
> work just fine for a while, but I would rather simplify by installing a
> single 12 volt battery instead.  Does anyone have any pictures, procedures
> or components required for this conversion.  I trust sealed batteries like
> Optima more than these lead/acid repros.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Wed May  5 21:22:44 2021
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 03:22:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Battery Conversion
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <875135776.594406.1620271364186@mail.yahoo.com>

Mike,
I have converted my 1954 BN1 to a single Odyssey pc925 battery. This is an very small battery less than 5" high. It is square in profile and fits nicely into one of the battery wells. The tops of the solid brass terminals are threaded for bolts/washers (metric) that come with the battery. To attach the Lucas lead helmet caps, I bored a larger hole in the and secured the cable with the bolt/washer combination. While this battery is small in size it cranks the BN1 faster than any other battery or combination of 6 volts I've ever used. My tester shows at fully charged over 600 CCA.
Recently, I began switching all my old cars to Odyssey batteries after getting one in an Elva Courier racer I purchased. It was mounted on its side with cable attached as mentioned above. These batteries have long storage times and have cranked the 100 after 6 months storage with no charging. The only caveat is you need an AGM charger.?
Ben Cohen,
BN1, BN7 and BJ8...and other British

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 5, 2021 12:32 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Battery Conversion

I have two NOS six volt Lucas reproduction batteries.? They would probably work just fine for a while, but I would rather simplify by installing a single 12?volt battery instead.? Does anyone have any pictures, procedures or components required for this conversion.? I trust sealed batteries like Optima more than these lead/acid repros.Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed May  5 22:04:14 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 21:04:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Battery Conversion
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOPiAcSmN_S+XuEzTjJ0pxnJG0R_tCV1sxJN5dbjdcXwLA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9bc2a30a-cd67-676d-490d-8b9914396302@comcast.net>

My BN2 came with a (single) 12V, hacked into the compartment in the boot 
where the cutoff switch is. We reverted to the 2 6V in series.

On 5/5/2021 12:32 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I have two NOS six volt Lucas reproduction batteries.? They would 
> probably work just fine for a while, but I would rather simplify by 
> installing a single 12?volt battery instead.? Does anyone have any 
> pictures, procedures or components required for this conversion.? I 
> trust sealed batteries like Optima more than these lead/acid repros.
> Mike MacLean
>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May  5 22:07:06 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 12:07:06 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] dead
In-Reply-To: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>
References: <1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLhx1xEise5XMZi-WMMn5fD7oUZ5PYZMiVq5JpHn2Sy0A@mail.gmail.com>

Are you sure you know you are getting lots of fuel?  if you are checking if
it is pumping, that's not good enough.  You need to take the float chamber
tops off after it fills up and see if both chambers are full of gas... if
not, that's where the problem is.


On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 6:20 AM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

> A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.  Hagerty
> brought it home.  Diagnosis:
>
> It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.
>
> Lots of fuel
>
> Spark
>
> Pretty sure there is air.
>
> Checked all the voltages, all per spec.
>
> Changed condenser, no improvement.
>
> Rotor and points are new.
>
> Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad.  Checked the
> wire, and it wasn't even connected.  Disconnected this wire at the coil and
> using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground.  Aha!  Intermittent
> ground!  Fired it up; a little reluctant but it started up and seemed to
> run ok.  Drove around the block a few times, came home and patted myself on
> the back.  Next day took it out for a little longer run (2 miles) and it
> began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from home.  Nursed it home.
>
> Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been very
> hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few seconds before
> it catches.  Decided that maybe even though there was spark, maybe it
> wasn't strong enough.  Bought a new coil.
>
> After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great.  Have been
> taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine.  I hate to
> say it is cured, but seems to be.
>
> Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu May  6 05:47:55 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 07:47:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox rebuild
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK6MxkGKMRw3A8EM3ZS4=CZJ+GN86W7pN+d4VBsONLKAA@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone out there rebuilding a BN7/BT7 gearbox?
I need the dimension of a part.

Thanks

M
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu May  6 07:51:00 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 09:51:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D@aol.com>
References: <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D.ref@aol.com>
 <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery
issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a
point where it becomes a problem.
With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.

Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above
the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the
pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric
pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation
to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a
hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient
volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling
process.

Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the
jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is
moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around
the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough
temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this
doesn't happen.

I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating
sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the
pump.

For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel
to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat.
This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem.

For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have
found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are
manageable.
I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from
behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that
will be visible.
Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.

M


On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:

> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution .
> On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and
> Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially
> in hot weather .
> I am assuming the heat is from
> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust
> play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem
> most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with
> little result.
> I am at a loss as to
> What to do
> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my
> assumptions
> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a
> issue?
> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
> Ken
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May  6 08:02:25 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 22:02:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D.ref@aol.com>
 <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D@aol.com>
 <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKxM6KYeK9K_i1UDz+9FfXoqvHrjfVsjXUUCYFGnB4PQw@mail.gmail.com>

I have found that having the header and miniature heat shield to be ceramic
coated makes a huge difference in the engine bay but then transfers heat to
the exhaust, so it?s only good if you have an SS exhaust system and then
you need to insulate around the pump as Michael has said.  i just wrap
header tape around the exhaust pipe in that area and that is also effective,

On Thu, 6 May 2021 at 9:52 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery
> issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a
> point where it becomes a problem.
> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.
>
> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above
> the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the
> pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric
> pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation
> to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a
> hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient
> volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling
> process.
>
> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the
> jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is
> moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around
> the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough
> temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this
> doesn't happen.
>
> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating
> sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the
> pump.
>
> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized
> steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated
> heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the
> problem.
>
> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have
> found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are
> manageable.
> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from
> behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that
> will be visible.
> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.
>
> M
>
>
> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution .
>> On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and
>> Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially
>> in hot weather .
>> I am assuming the heat is from
>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust
>> play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem
>> most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with
>> little result.
>> I am at a loss as to
>> What to do
>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my
>> assumptions
>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a
>> issue?
>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
>> Ken
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May  6 09:03:15 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 08:03:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D.ref@aol.com>
 <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D@aol.com>
 <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51c72c17-abeb-4a6d-6d7d-3a965efd6137@comcast.net>

re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?


On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery 
> issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol 
> to a point where it becomes a problem.
> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.
>
> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly 
> above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction 
> side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would 
> at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't 
> sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as 
> occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs 
> because the pump will not pump? sufficient volume of vapour to exceed 
> the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>
> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to 
> the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the 
> car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille 
> and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a 
> low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in 
> traffic this doesn't happen.
>
> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a 
> insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from 
> the tank to the pump.
>
> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized 
> steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the 
> radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely 
> eliminated the problem.
>
> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I 
> have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely 
> eliminated, are manageable.
> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from 
> behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course 
> that will be visible.
> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.
>
> M
>
>
> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com 
> <mailto:ahmg at aol.com>> wrote:
>
>     Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a
>     solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance
>     distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what
>     I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather .
>     I am assuming the heat is from
>     Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near
>     exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other
>     owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do
>     have a heat sheild added with little result.
>     I am at a loss as to
>     What to do
>     Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are
>     my assumptions
>     Correct on heat causing the issue.? Could today?s quality if gas
>     be a issue?
>     I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor
>     issues.
>     Ken
>

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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Thu May  6 09:13:07 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 11:13:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKxM6KYeK9K_i1UDz+9FfXoqvHrjfVsjXUUCYFGnB4PQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKxM6KYeK9K_i1UDz+9FfXoqvHrjfVsjXUUCYFGnB4PQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4684D0FD-8EDB-4B0B-8151-BFA5268F358F@yahoo.com>

Hi All , 
    I have a 67 BJ-8 . And  when I did a frame off restoration I lived in Mass.  Well me and my Healey are now living in central Florida. And my mods are a set of headers from Dennis Welch along with his matching 2 inch exhaust system. I had the headers ceramic coated and I wrapped them with header insulation tape . I completely used fuel line insulation wrap from mid way on the car all the way up to the carbs . I installed a neat set of fuel bowl insulated coozies from Joe Coutu. Along with a new radiator from AH Spares and a electronic fan mounted to it . My next mod was a new intake manifold , also from AH Spares , there newly designed system with round 2 inch ports . I also had this ceramic coated . I still install the original Healey heat shield . I installed an electronic ignition system and a new SU electronic fuel pump . 
     Well running around Florida it runs strong . But every time I come to a stop light , then pull away I always have vapor lock problems. Stopping at a stop light I get no air flow around the carbs . Looking back installing those fender rally vents I?m sure would help getting rid of some of the engine heat . None of these mods have stopped my vapor lock problems.  My next attempt at solving the fuel vapor problem is I just insalled a cooling fan from Chill Out , a company that specializes in race car cooling systems. It?s a 3 inch fan about the size of a beer can . I mounted it next to my brake reservoir with ducting on the intake side pulling in air from in front of the radiator, then duct work on the output side blowing onto the carbs .  Unfortunately I ran out of time to test it as I?m now back in Mass for 3 weeks.  When I get back to Florida I?m looking forward to ? seeing if this helps . I can supply pictures of all the above mods if anyone is interested. 
    Wish me Luck ??   Don

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 6, 2021, at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have found that having the header and miniature heat shield to be ceramic coated makes a huge difference in the engine bay but then transfers heat to the exhaust, so it?s only good if you have an SS exhaust system and then you need to insulate around the pump as Michael has said.  i just wrap header tape around the exhaust pipe in that area and that is also effective,
> 
>> On Thu, 6 May 2021 at 9:52 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem. 
>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 
>> 
>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>> 
>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 
>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.
>> 
>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
>> 
>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 
>> 
>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 
>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
>>> I am at a loss as to
>>> What to do
>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
>>> Ken
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Thu May  6 09:16:29 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2021 11:16:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <4684D0FD-8EDB-4B0B-8151-BFA5268F358F@yahoo.com>
References: <4684D0FD-8EDB-4B0B-8151-BFA5268F358F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F962D15B-6C22-460E-83D0-445230A523E5@yahoo.com>

Oh and I only use Ethanol free gas . Around high 90s octane.
       Don 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 6, 2021, at 11:13 AM, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> ?Hi All , 
>     I have a 67 BJ-8 . And  when I did a frame off restoration I lived in Mass.  Well me and my Healey are now living in central Florida. And my mods are a set of headers from Dennis Welch along with his matching 2 inch exhaust system. I had the headers ceramic coated and I wrapped them with header insulation tape . I completely used fuel line insulation wrap from mid way on the car all the way up to the carbs . I installed a neat set of fuel bowl insulated coozies from Joe Coutu. Along with a new radiator from AH Spares and a electronic fan mounted to it . My next mod was a new intake manifold , also from AH Spares , there newly designed system with round 2 inch ports . I also had this ceramic coated . I still install the original Healey heat shield . I installed an electronic ignition system and a new SU electronic fuel pump . 
>      Well running around Florida it runs strong . But every time I come to a stop light , then pull away I always have vapor lock problems. Stopping at a stop light I get no air flow around the carbs . Looking back installing those fender rally vents I?m sure would help getting rid of some of the engine heat . None of these mods have stopped my vapor lock problems.  My next attempt at solving the fuel vapor problem is I just insalled a cooling fan from Chill Out , a company that specializes in race car cooling systems. It?s a 3 inch fan about the size of a beer can . I mounted it next to my brake reservoir with ducting on the intake side pulling in air from in front of the radiator, then duct work on the output side blowing onto the carbs .  Unfortunately I ran out of time to test it as I?m now back in Mass for 3 weeks.  When I get back to Florida I?m looking forward to ? seeing if this helps . I can supply pictures of all the above mods if anyone is interested. 
>     Wish me Luck ??   Don
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On May 6, 2021, at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> I have found that having the header and miniature heat shield to be ceramic coated makes a huge difference in the engine bay but then transfers heat to the exhaust, so it?s only good if you have an SS exhaust system and then you need to insulate around the pump as Michael has said.  i just wrap header tape around the exhaust pipe in that area and that is also effective,
>> 
>>> On Thu, 6 May 2021 at 9:52 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem. 
>>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 
>>> 
>>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>>> 
>>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 
>>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.
>>> 
>>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
>>> 
>>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 
>>> 
>>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 
>>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
>>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
>>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
>>>> I am at a loss as to
>>>> What to do
>>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
>>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
>>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
>>>> Ken
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
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>> 
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May  6 23:13:44 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 13:13:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <4684D0FD-8EDB-4B0B-8151-BFA5268F358F@yahoo.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKxM6KYeK9K_i1UDz+9FfXoqvHrjfVsjXUUCYFGnB4PQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4684D0FD-8EDB-4B0B-8151-BFA5268F358F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJA1QeBw=OpDJDxbMjzMVwF-f1yRvmC=N-_izdqMobvMg@mail.gmail.com>

Did you replace the teflon bushes around the throttle shafts on your HD8s?
If these are old or worn, air will start leaking into the carbs when they
get hot and you idle will become erratic, it can seem like vapor lock but
it might be simply a matter of fuel mixture getting too much air when the
car is hot.

On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:13 PM <fsufan1952 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi All ,
>     I have a 67 BJ-8 . And  when I did a frame off restoration I lived in
> Mass.  Well me and my Healey are now living in central Florida. And my mods
> are a set of headers from Dennis Welch along with his matching 2 inch
> exhaust system. I had the headers ceramic coated and I wrapped them with
> header insulation tape . I completely used fuel line insulation wrap from
> mid way on the car all the way up to the carbs . I installed a neat set of
> fuel bowl insulated coozies from Joe Coutu. Along with a new radiator from
> AH Spares and a electronic fan mounted to it . My next mod was a new intake
> manifold , also from AH Spares , there newly designed system with round 2
> inch ports . I also had this ceramic coated . I still install the original
> Healey heat shield . I installed an electronic ignition system and a new SU
> electronic fuel pump .
>      Well running around Florida it runs strong . But every time I come to
> a stop light , then pull away I always have vapor lock problems. Stopping
> at a stop light I get no air flow around the carbs . Looking back
> installing those fender rally vents I?m sure would help getting rid of some
> of the engine heat . None of these mods have stopped my vapor lock
> problems.  My next attempt at solving the fuel vapor problem is I just
> insalled a cooling fan from Chill Out , a company that specializes in race
> car cooling systems. It?s a 3 inch fan about the size of a beer can . I
> mounted it next to my brake reservoir with ducting on the intake side
> pulling in air from in front of the radiator, then duct work on the output
> side blowing onto the carbs .  Unfortunately I ran out of time to test it
> as I?m now back in Mass for 3 weeks.  When I get back to Florida I?m
> looking forward to ? seeing if this helps . I can supply pictures of all
> the above mods if anyone is interested.
>     Wish me Luck ??   Don
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 6, 2021, at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> I have found that having the header and miniature heat shield to be
> ceramic coated makes a huge difference in the engine bay but then transfers
> heat to the exhaust, so it?s only good if you have an SS exhaust system and
> then you need to insulate around the pump as Michael has said.  i just wrap
> header tape around the exhaust pipe in that area and that is also effective,
>
> On Thu, 6 May 2021 at 9:52 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery
>> issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a
>> point where it becomes a problem.
>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.
>>
>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly
>> above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of
>> the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at
>> atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air
>> circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in
>> traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not
>> pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by
>> the boiling process.
>>
>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the
>> jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car
>> is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and
>> around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low
>> enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic
>> this doesn't happen.
>>
>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating
>> sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the
>> pump.
>>
>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized
>> steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated
>> heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the
>> problem.
>>
>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have
>> found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are
>> manageable.
>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from
>> behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that
>> will be visible.
>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution .
>>> On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and
>>> Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially
>>> in hot weather .
>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust
>>> play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem
>>> most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with
>>> little result.
>>> I am at a loss as to
>>> What to do
>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my
>>> assumptions
>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a
>>> issue?
>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri May  7 06:59:33 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 08:59:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <51c72c17-abeb-4a6d-6d7d-3a965efd6137@comcast.net>
References: <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D.ref@aol.com>
 <4FD9EA26-9409-4A05-B8ED-57B5E080199D@aol.com>
 <CAB3i7L+Q==RmaqOt4P8v8P72B3dYqHsLDY2=_9R3Qif__m0AYA@mail.gmail.com>
 <51c72c17-abeb-4a6d-6d7d-3a965efd6137@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ-TC1Qnuk-+oa3YWPAAq0ksoccdLeV9Hux=yWr2ii+7g@mail.gmail.com>

*re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..." Typo?*

Have I got that wrong Bob?














*"Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for
use in the onroadvehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s
and the 1980?s. Based onthis early research, methanol blends containing up
to 15 vol% (M15) were successfullyoperated by automakers or oil companies
in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden,
Germany, New Zealand and China during thattime. Also during that time
period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with
co-solvent alcohols werecommercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A.
Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part
ofvehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to
handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercialmethanol
blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with
some co-solvents also added to provide fuelstability. However, with today?s
modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and
also using moreadvance fuel system materials, current experience suggests
that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasolineblend with
adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used
in today?s more modern vehicles inuse today. Many provinces in China have
been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use
hasbeen expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher
cost petroleum fuels."*

M

On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>
> Typo?
>
>
> On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery
> issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a
> point where it becomes a problem.
> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.
>
> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above
> the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the
> pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric
> pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation
> to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a
> hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient
> volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling
> process.
>
> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the
> jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is
> moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around
> the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough
> temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this
> doesn't happen.
>
> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating
> sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the
> pump.
>
> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized
> steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated
> heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the
> problem.
>
> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have
> found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are
> manageable.
> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from
> behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that
> will be visible.
> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.
>
> M
>
>
> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution .
>> On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and
>> Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially
>> in hot weather .
>> I am assuming the heat is from
>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust
>> play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem
>> most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with
>> little result.
>> I am at a loss as to
>> What to do
>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my
>> assumptions
>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a
>> issue?
>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
>> Ken
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May  7 07:27:24 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 06:27:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ-TC1Qnuk-+oa3YWPAAq0ksoccdLeV9Hux=yWr2ii+7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ-TC1Qnuk-+oa3YWPAAq0ksoccdLeV9Hux=yWr2ii+7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>

In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.

> On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
> 
> Typo?
> 
> Have I got that wrong Bob?
> 
> "Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
> vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
> this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
> operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
> ~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
> time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
> commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
> vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
> methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
> stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
> advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
> blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
> use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
> been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."
> 
> M
> 
>> On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>> 
>> Typo?
>> 
>> 
>> On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem. 
>>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 
>>> 
>>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>>> 
>>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 
>>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.
>>> 
>>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
>>> 
>>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 
>>> 
>>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 
>>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
>>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
>>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
>>>> I am at a loss as to
>>>> What to do
>>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
>>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
>>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
>>>> Ken
>>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May  7 07:41:45 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 06:41:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>
References: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C58D800D-2055-4D9B-B6B4-3705961E0737@comcast.net>

www.petro-canada.com

> On May 7, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.
> 
>>> On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>> 
>> Typo?
>> 
>> Have I got that wrong Bob?
>> 
>> "Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
>> vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
>> this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
>> operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
>> ~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
>> time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
>> commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
>> vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
>> methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
>> stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
>> advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
>> blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
>> use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
>> been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."
>> 
>> M
>> 
>>> On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>>> 
>>> Typo?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem. 
>>>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 
>>>> 
>>>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>>>> 
>>>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 
>>>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.
>>>> 
>>>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
>>>> 
>>>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 
>>>> 
>>>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 
>>>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
>>>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 
>>>> 
>>>> M
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
>>>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
>>>>> I am at a loss as to
>>>>> What to do
>>>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
>>>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
>>>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
>>>>> Ken
>>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>> 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri May  7 10:47:00 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 16:47:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <C58D800D-2055-4D9B-B6B4-3705961E0737@comcast.net>
References: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>,
 <C58D800D-2055-4D9B-B6B4-3705961E0737@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 1:41 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

www.petro-canada.com

On May 7, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

?
In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.

On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?
re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?

Have I got that wrong Bob?

"Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."

M

On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?


On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem.
With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.

Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.

Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.

I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.

For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem.

For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable.
I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.

M


On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com<mailto:ahmg at aol.com>> wrote:
Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather .
I am assuming the heat is from
Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
I am at a loss as to
What to do
Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
Ken


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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May  7 10:53:54 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 09:53:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
Message-ID: <CABXhz88uq1Awq9bhahCawwhtr4HFahO+sr-xsFJF1UL4sau0Mg@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all,
I will be driving down to Conclave through Klamath Falls,or and then hwy
395 south to Big Bear Lake, Any listers planning to attend and will be on
the same route? I'll be in Kfalls 5/13.
Let me know if you want to join up? I'm driving solo and wouldn't mind some
company. Plan to stay in Carson City, the Inyokern and then to BBL. Not
sure exactly as I have no idea how many road hours man and machine can
handle.
If not hope to some of you there
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Fri May  7 11:23:52 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 18:23:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>

Welcome to my world.  That is around the normal price of fuel here in the UK.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 7 May 2021, at 17:47, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much...
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 1:41 PM
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>  
> www.petro-canada.com
> 
>>> On May 7, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.
>> 
>>> On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?
>>> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>>> 
>>> Typo?
>>> 
>>> Have I got that wrong Bob?
>>> 
>>> "Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
>>> vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
>>> this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
>>> operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
>>> ~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
>>> time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
>>> commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
>>> vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
>>> methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
>>> stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
>>> advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
>>> blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
>>> use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
>>> been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."
>>> 
>>> Typo?
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>>> Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem. 
>>>> With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 
>>>> 
>>>> Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.
>>>> 
>>>> Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 
>>>> The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.
>>>> 
>>>> I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
>>>> 
>>>> For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 
>>>> 
>>>> For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 
>>>> I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
>>>> Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 
>>>> 
>>>> M
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:
>>>> Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
>>>> I am assuming the heat is from
>>>> Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
>>>> I am at a loss as to
>>>> What to do
>>>> Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
>>>> Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
>>>> I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
>>>> Ken
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May  7 11:50:54 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 10:50:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
In-Reply-To: <9FE2F3B44CBF4972BCF3D063C6ED9335@DavidNockHP>
References: <CABXhz88uq1Awq9bhahCawwhtr4HFahO+sr-xsFJF1UL4sau0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <9FE2F3B44CBF4972BCF3D063C6ED9335@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89qv12GVa_OPZFfV=xmh1hc=EFJCYXk+pFtRNhkMyzZWQ@mail.gmail.com>

Watch out for blue over white car.:)

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, May 7, 2021, 10:26 AM British Car Specialists <
britishcarspecialists at gmail.com> wrote:

> We will be leaving Saturday morning going over Sonora Pass in the snow and
> just opened connecting up with 395 heading south, to arrive at Big Bear on
> Saturday night. We should be in Bridgeport about 11 am,
>
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>
>
> *From:* i erbs
> *Sent:* Friday, May 07, 2021 9:53 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* [Healeys] conclave
>
> Howdy all,
> I will be driving down to Conclave through Klamath Falls,or and then hwy
> 395 south to Big Bear Lake, Any listers planning to attend and will be on
> the same route? I'll be in Kfalls 5/13.
> Let me know if you want to join up? I'm driving solo and wouldn't mind
> some company. Plan to stay in Carson City, the Inyokern and then to BBL.
> Not sure exactly as I have no idea how many road hours man and machine can
> handle.
> If not hope to some of you there
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri May  7 12:07:05 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 18:07:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>
References: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>,
 <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11433DF025B3AA9285CA056EA5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in the last three months. Funny how that works.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 5:23 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

Welcome to my world.  That is around the normal price of fuel here in the UK.

Alan - from my iPad

On 7 May 2021, at 17:47, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com> wrote:

?
During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 1:41 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

www.petro-canada.com

On May 7, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

?
In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.

On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?
re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?

Have I got that wrong Bob?

"Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."

M

On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?


On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem.
With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues.

Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.

Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold.
The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.

I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.

For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem.

For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable.
I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.
Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions.

M


On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com<mailto:ahmg at aol.com>> wrote:
Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather .
I am assuming the heat is from
Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
I am at a loss as to
What to do
Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues.
Ken


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From garyandersonmm at gmail.com  Fri May  7 13:39:38 2021
From: garyandersonmm at gmail.com (Gary Anderson)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 12:39:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
Message-ID: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>

Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura West
Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.

Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
can cut over to BBL.

Anyone else agree with me?

Gary Anderson
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri May  7 13:47:04 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 15:47:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>,
 <C58D800D-2055-4D9B-B6B4-3705961E0737@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <07f201d74379$c1ff8050$45fe80f0$@gmail.com>

I have had trouble getting my BJ8 SU HD8 carbs to operate properly since taking them off during the engine rebuild. The engine would just not idle properly at 1000 rpm (never could get it lower and maybe the tack is off)  I am using color tune to get the mixture right without success.  My good friend George suggested Premium 92 Octane Non-ethanol fuel, so I bought a tank full and just tweaked the fuel mixture one turn rich and went for a drive.  Seemed to like something I did.  One tank later, the engine is idling better, and the engine response is better.  I thought $3.34 per US Gallon was very high compared to $2.69 here in south Florida.  Nevertheless, will continue to use as the engine seems to like it.  Yes, we have some of the lowest prices in the state of Florida thanks to Gulf Coast Refineries and delivery via barges.  Note there are no refineries in Florida.

 

Ops, unleaded just jumped to $2.89 over night so I guess 92 will go up 20 cents or more on my next fill up.  Probably, will send the carbs to Joe over the summer to see if he can make them run the engine better.  Afterall, the expense on the Healey and other toys in retirement is a SKI purchase,? Spend the Kids Inheritance?.   

 

Bob Begani 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 12:47 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

 

During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much... 

 

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri May  7 14:00:39 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 16:00:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>

Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 several times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would recommend not driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the most boring, hot and desolate highway in the country. God forbid anyone has a breakdown. Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before another car passes by. Just think of hours before you see one.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Gary Anderson
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?

 

Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.

 

Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5, then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you can cut over to BBL.

 

Anyone else agree with me?

 

Gary Anderson

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Fri May  7 14:13:00 2021
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 20:13:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CO1PR10MB4770D5C9B36DE9BCFD51CD5CA4579@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

I think 395 is quite scenic and beautiful for the most part. I find it less dangerous than I 5. Few big trucks and idiot racers to deal with. This time of the year it should be in the 70s to low 80's. Living in Tahoe and having family in LA area I have driven it very often. 99 and I 5 scare me and they are just as hot. But to each his (or her) own. Coming home I will stop in Huntington Beach and Moro Bay to see family and I can travel in the cool of the mornings. I hope you all have a safe and un-eventful travel however you go.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Gary Anderson <garyandersonmm at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 12:39 PM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?

Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.

Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5, then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you can cut over to BBL.

Anyone else agree with me?

Gary Anderson
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May  7 14:13:26 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 13:13:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_c7Rf9hs-6gRy_SVNBds6Rq3v9q4iPczyrvquhOUfobg@mail.gmail.com>

 I appreciate that,
I too have lived in CA for many years. I did a 10 day temp forecast for I-5
and 395
Sacramento will be 90 while Bishop will be 72. Yes Barstow will be 90, but
a lot less traffic than cutting across the 210  from the 405. Plus I have
driven I5 a hundred times in my life and wanted to change things up. Not
planning more than 5 hours of road time on any leg of my trip. Looks like a
number of folks from the Bay area will be heading down 395 as well, so I
might company for part of the trip. My mechanic is going through the car
and my fresh air hoses are now hooked up. I will add extra insulation to my
pedal box and I have a thermostatically controlled fan on my radiator.. I
will be going west to Sherman Oaks on the 21st ri visit my sister, then
plan to take 101 or 1 North to the Bay area to again visit with family,
then 1 or 101 home. I am in no hurry and can take as long as I want to make
it home
Gary, are you going to Conclave?
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 12:39 PM Gary Anderson <garyandersonmm at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
> rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
> absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
> drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
> put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
> nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
> drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
> the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
> then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
> can cut over to BBL.
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
> Gary Anderson
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May  7 14:20:02 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 13:20:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CO1PR10MB4770D5C9B36DE9BCFD51CD5CA4579@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770D5C9B36DE9BCFD51CD5CA4579@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88NJjy0Pm9=dGNuXFUnZyds+Wbp_+muAa+Soe4hoaOVGw@mail.gmail.com>

I said as much in my other post. I appreciate the concern, but this is well
thought out. I have some health challenges and I do not know If I can do a
trip like this again, my Doc today said yes I will, but that said this is a
great time to be driving 395 and 1 or 101 coming home. I want to avoid
large trucks and yutzes. and heat. I will be in the North Bay area for
three or four nights and then home up the coast. It can take two or three
days if need be. I teach one class online, All I need is interent to log in
and grade their work.
Any route is an adventure in these cars,fortunately I can fix or at least
diagnose almost any problem and my AAA will tow me up to 200 miles. see you
all there
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 1:13 PM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I think 395 is quite scenic and beautiful for the most part. I find it
> less dangerous than I 5. Few big trucks and idiot racers to deal with. This
> time of the year it should be in the 70s to low 80's. Living in Tahoe and
> having family in LA area I have driven it very often. 99 and I 5 scare me
> and they are just as hot. But to each his (or her) own. Coming home I will
> stop in Huntington Beach and Moro Bay to see family and I can travel in the
> cool of the mornings. I hope you all have a safe and un-eventful travel
> however you go.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Gary
> Anderson <garyandersonmm at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 12:39 PM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
>
> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
> rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
> absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
> drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
> put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
> nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
> drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
> the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
> then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
> can cut over to BBL.
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
> Gary Anderson
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  7 14:58:34 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 13:58:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88NJjy0Pm9=dGNuXFUnZyds+Wbp_+muAa+Soe4hoaOVGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770D5C9B36DE9BCFD51CD5CA4579@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz88NJjy0Pm9=dGNuXFUnZyds+Wbp_+muAa+Soe4hoaOVGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <96031A1B14FE433C97A3F5D64E05B92B@DavidNockHP>

Enjoy the drive.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: i erbs 
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2021 1:20 PM
To: Richard Kahn 
Cc: Gary Anderson ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?

I said as much in my other post. I appreciate the concern, but this is well thought out. I have some health challenges and I do not know If I can do a trip like this again, my Doc today said yes I will, but that said this is a great time to be driving 395 and 1 or 101 coming home. I want to avoid large trucks and yutzes. and heat. I will be in the North Bay area for three or four nights and then home up the coast. It can take two or three days if need be. I teach one class online, All I need is interent to log in and grade their work.
Any route is an adventure in these cars,fortunately I can fix or at least diagnose almost any problem and my AAA will tow me up to 200 miles. see you all there

Ira Erbs 
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti

Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 1:13 PM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

  I think 395 is quite scenic and beautiful for the most part. I find it less dangerous than I 5. Few big trucks and idiot racers to deal with. This time of the year it should be in the 70s to low 80's. Living in Tahoe and having family in LA area I have driven it very often. 99 and I 5 scare me and they are just as hot. But to each his (or her) own. Coming home I will stop in Huntington Beach and Moro Bay to see family and I can travel in the cool of the mornings. I hope you all have a safe and un-eventful travel however you go.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Gary Anderson <garyandersonmm at gmail.com>
  Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 12:39 PM
  To: eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395? 

  Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree. 

  Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5, then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you can cut over to BBL.

  Anyone else agree with me?

  Gary Anderson


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri May  7 17:22:46 2021
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 16:22:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <07f201d74379$c1ff8050$45fe80f0$@gmail.com>
References: <3DA23BCF-A539-4578-BBFB-6F8218ED0420@comcast.net>,
 <C58D800D-2055-4D9B-B6B4-3705961E0737@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <07f201d74379$c1ff8050$45fe80f0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9BC2E855DA7B43169AA385950C02E802@LeonardPCPC>

Bob:  Today, in Fairfield, Calif., price range across area was $3.69 to $4.35 for Regular gas according to Gas Buddy.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: rfbegani at gmail.com 
  To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' 
  Cc: Austin Healey list 
  Sent: Friday, May 07, 2021 12:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas


  I have had trouble getting my BJ8 SU HD8 carbs to operate properly since taking them off during the engine rebuild. The engine would just not idle properly at 1000 rpm (never could get it lower and maybe the tack is off)  I am using color tune to get the mixture right without success.  My good friend George suggested Premium 92 Octane Non-ethanol fuel, so I bought a tank full and just tweaked the fuel mixture one turn rich and went for a drive.  Seemed to like something I did.  One tank later, the engine is idling better, and the engine response is better.  I thought $3.34 per US Gallon was very high compared to $2.69 here in south Florida.  Nevertheless, will continue to use as the engine seems to like it.  Yes, we have some of the lowest prices in the state of Florida thanks to Gulf Coast Refineries and delivery via barges.  Note there are no refineries in Florida.

   

  Ops, unleaded just jumped to $2.89 over night so I guess 92 will go up 20 cents or more on my next fill up.  Probably, will send the carbs to Joe over the summer to see if he can make them run the engine better.  Afterall, the expense on the Healey and other toys in retirement is a SKI purchase,? Spend the Kids Inheritance?.   

   

  Bob Begani 

   

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
  Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 12:47 PM
  To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

   

  During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much... 

         



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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri May  7 19:19:35 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 01:19:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] conclave
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88uq1Awq9bhahCawwhtr4HFahO+sr-xsFJF1UL4sau0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88uq1Awq9bhahCawwhtr4HFahO+sr-xsFJF1UL4sau0Mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1609309792.116777.1620436775952@mail.yahoo.com>

IraIt would be nice to attend another west coast meet. Over the years we have been fortunate to attend many but not recently. Seems like the organizers, no matter which club or group always put together a winner. The trips to get to the west coast for us involved a 2500 mile plane ride but always worth it.? Hope you and the other attendees have a great time at Conclave.?
The follow up comments to your original post regarding a long drive on a desolate road reminded me of a ride in a 3000 fifty years ago. Started in San Jose California south to US Route 40 (parts of which were the old Route 66) and then head east to Pennsylvania. very close to 2700 miles. There were, at that time, a lot of very desolate miles of road through mountains, forests, desert with tumble weeds (Texas Panhadle)? and many miles of farmland. However looking back on the trip it was one off the great adventures? we have been on.? Oh did I mention that this was not a solo trip. My wife Kimberley and our one year old son Martin (who you know and has a NastyBoy Healey of his own) cruised the landscape, from fairly sunny San Jose through the snow in the mountains further south and east through the many, many miles of roads in a 1965 BJ8. There is more to the story but what a ride....
Enjoy the drivePerry


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 7, 2021 12:53 pm
Subject: [Healeys] conclave

Howdy all,I will be driving down to Conclave through Klamath Falls,or and then hwy 395 south to Big Bear Lake, Any listers planning to attend and will be on the same route? I'll be in Kfalls 5/13.Let me know if you want to join up? I'm driving solo and wouldn't mind some company. Plan to stay in Carson City, the Inyokern and then to BBL. Not sure exactly as I have no idea how many road hours man and machine can handle.If not hope to some of you there
Ira ErbsMilwaukie,OR?

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May  7 20:36:03 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 19:36:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>

Why the hate for 395? Sure, some parts--mostly the southern end (avoid 
Kramer Junction if you can)--are hot and boring, but parts are some of 
my favorite pieces of road. You have Mono Lake--well, what's left of 
it--and you can stop and check out the tufas. There is a Chevron station 
at the corner of 120 (Yosemite) and 395 that has a deli with great chow 
(it used to have a trapeze, never figured that out). Just south you can 
take a break from the 4-lane and take the June Lake Loop for some cool 
air and scenery. The little towns along the way are getting touristy--I 
think Bishop has a new microbrewery--and Independence, Lone Pine and Big 
Pine are, well, 'quaint' ('Tremors' was filmed near Lone Pine). Mt. 
Whitney is the tallest in the contiguous US, and almost always has some 
snow, but I can never figure out which of the three large peaks is 
Whitney. It's always fascinating to me to drive along the base of a 
mountain range that rises almost straight up from the flat Owens Valley, 
less than a mile from the highway.

Some of the E-W 'crossover' roads are great for Healeys; Hwy 155 from 99 
to 395 into Wofford Heights/Lake Isabella--there's a microbrewery in 
Kernville--is a great Healey road, one of few that have caused me brake 
fade on the twisty downhill side (Delano is pretty rough, just keep 
moving ;). Hwy 58 out of Bakersfield (avoid) through Tehachapi has a 
great road over the mountains (I have some footage, but it's 128MB). 
East of Lake Isabella on Hwy 178 is Walker pass, a fun and scenic ride 
(then you hit the bad part of 395). I've passed the internment camp 
monument/museum a few times, but never stopped. I plan to someday; we 
shouldn't forget what we did to loyal Americans who happened to look a 
little different and have some aggressive relatives--we're doing it 
again, it seems--and if you don't know the story of the 442nd Infantry 
Regiment you should acquaint yourself:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)

I could go on, but don't want to give away ALL my secret, favorite 
roads. Anybody gonna do the Angeles Crest?

Bob

On 5/7/2021 1:00 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 
> several times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would 
> recommend not driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the 
> most boring, hot and desolate highway in the country. God forbid 
> anyone has a breakdown. Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before 
> another car passes by. Just think of hours before you see one.*
>
> **
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
> **
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary 
> Anderson
> *Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
>
> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura 
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly 
> suggest you rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in 
> time, but it is absolutely?the most desolate, boring and hot (let me 
> emphasize that) HOT drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason 
> that the U.S. government put the internment camps out in that area 
> during World War II -- there's nothing within 100 miles of the camps. 
> When we were driving, one of the drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop 
> the next time you see any shade along the road" -- we drove for 
> another hour before we saw a tree.
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 
> 5, then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles 
> where you can cut over to BBL.
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
> Gary Anderson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May  7 20:42:04 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2021 19:42:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
 <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-Xq9PdUC2ztLtqsDTuo0KO6w3Xw9=4xrVchoT=tSUaug@mail.gmail.com>

I'm with you. I have driven 395 many many times and Always wanted to do it
in my
HEALEY. Bucket list item soon to be checked off
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, May 7, 2021, 7:36 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why the hate for 395? Sure, some parts--mostly the southern end (avoid
> Kramer Junction if you can)--are hot and boring, but parts are some of my
> favorite pieces of road. You have Mono Lake--well, what's left of it--and
> you can stop and check out the tufas. There is a Chevron station at the
> corner of 120 (Yosemite) and 395 that has a deli with great chow (it used
> to have a trapeze, never figured that out). Just south you can take a break
> from the 4-lane and take the June Lake Loop for some cool air and scenery.
> The little towns along the way are getting touristy--I think Bishop has a
> new microbrewery--and Independence, Lone Pine and Big Pine are, well,
> 'quaint' ('Tremors' was filmed near Lone Pine). Mt. Whitney is the tallest
> in the contiguous US, and almost always has some snow, but I can never
> figure out which of the three large peaks is Whitney. It's always
> fascinating to me to drive along the base of a mountain range that rises
> almost straight up from the flat Owens Valley, less than a mile from the
> highway.
>
> Some of the E-W 'crossover' roads are great for Healeys; Hwy 155 from 99
> to 395 into Wofford Heights/Lake Isabella--there's a microbrewery in
> Kernville--is a great Healey road, one of few that have caused me brake
> fade on the twisty downhill side (Delano is pretty rough, just keep moving
> ;). Hwy 58 out of Bakersfield (avoid) through Tehachapi has a great road
> over the mountains (I have some footage, but it's 128MB). East of Lake
> Isabella on Hwy 178 is Walker pass, a fun and scenic ride (then you hit the
> bad part of 395). I've passed the internment camp monument/museum a few
> times, but never stopped. I plan to someday; we shouldn't forget what we
> did to loyal Americans who happened to look a little different and have
> some aggressive relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't
> know the story of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)
>
> I could go on, but don't want to give away ALL my secret, favorite roads.
> Anybody gonna do the Angeles Crest?
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/7/2021 1:00 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 several
> times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would recommend not
> driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the most boring, hot
> and desolate highway in the country. God forbid anyone has a breakdown.
> Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before another car passes by. Just
> think of hours before you see one.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary Anderson
> *Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
>
>
>
> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
> rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
> absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
> drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
> put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
> nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
> drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
> the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.
>
>
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
> then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
> can cut over to BBL.
>
>
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat May  8 05:25:41 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 07:25:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
 <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6WTQRUAc73gmHQLpuFfwnA7kTL3jpwef4h2p6T3u5aFw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob Spidell said:  we shouldn't forget what we did to loyal Americans who
happened to look a little different and have some aggressive
relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't know the story
of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)
--------------------------

Here here!!!

Best--Michael Oritt


On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 10:36 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why the hate for 395? Sure, some parts--mostly the southern end (avoid
> Kramer Junction if you can)--are hot and boring, but parts are some of my
> favorite pieces of road. You have Mono Lake--well, what's left of it--and
> you can stop and check out the tufas. There is a Chevron station at the
> corner of 120 (Yosemite) and 395 that has a deli with great chow (it used
> to have a trapeze, never figured that out). Just south you can take a break
> from the 4-lane and take the June Lake Loop for some cool air and scenery.
> The little towns along the way are getting touristy--I think Bishop has a
> new microbrewery--and Independence, Lone Pine and Big Pine are, well,
> 'quaint' ('Tremors' was filmed near Lone Pine). Mt. Whitney is the tallest
> in the contiguous US, and almost always has some snow, but I can never
> figure out which of the three large peaks is Whitney. It's always
> fascinating to me to drive along the base of a mountain range that rises
> almost straight up from the flat Owens Valley, less than a mile from the
> highway.
>
> Some of the E-W 'crossover' roads are great for Healeys; Hwy 155 from 99
> to 395 into Wofford Heights/Lake Isabella--there's a microbrewery in
> Kernville--is a great Healey road, one of few that have caused me brake
> fade on the twisty downhill side (Delano is pretty rough, just keep moving
> ;). Hwy 58 out of Bakersfield (avoid) through Tehachapi has a great road
> over the mountains (I have some footage, but it's 128MB). East of Lake
> Isabella on Hwy 178 is Walker pass, a fun and scenic ride (then you hit the
> bad part of 395). I've passed the internment camp monument/museum a few
> times, but never stopped. I plan to someday; we shouldn't forget what we
> did to loyal Americans who happened to look a little different and have
> some aggressive relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't
> know the story of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)
>
> I could go on, but don't want to give away ALL my secret, favorite roads.
> Anybody gonna do the Angeles Crest?
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/7/2021 1:00 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 several
> times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would recommend not
> driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the most boring, hot
> and desolate highway in the country. God forbid anyone has a breakdown.
> Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before another car passes by. Just
> think of hours before you see one.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary Anderson
> *Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
>
>
>
> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
> rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
> absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
> drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
> put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
> nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
> drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
> the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.
>
>
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
> then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
> can cut over to BBL.
>
>
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May  8 07:07:17 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 06:07:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
 <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz887Z6Xq_URyHOiOLz9m_OwQS+S2d5d5rODmAtD1ACwerg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks
I grew up in LA and have driven many of those roads and at least been
through many of those towns, albeit over 15 years ago. Been on a few in my
Healey, but never the whole way from Oregon. Something I have long wanted
to do.Was going to spend the night in Mammoth with a old pal,but he will be
in LA helping his mother in law move. When I first started driving to
Mammoth,  june lake area all that existed at manzinar was an obelisk that
said Manzanar circa 1972.
Cheers

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, May 7, 2021, 7:36 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why the hate for 395? Sure, some parts--mostly the southern end (avoid
> Kramer Junction if you can)--are hot and boring, but parts are some of my
> favorite pieces of road. You have Mono Lake--well, what's left of it--and
> you can stop and check out the tufas. There is a Chevron station at the
> corner of 120 (Yosemite) and 395 that has a deli with great chow (it used
> to have a trapeze, never figured that out). Just south you can take a break
> from the 4-lane and take the June Lake Loop for some cool air and scenery.
> The little towns along the way are getting touristy--I think Bishop has a
> new microbrewery--and Independence, Lone Pine and Big Pine are, well,
> 'quaint' ('Tremors' was filmed near Lone Pine). Mt. Whitney is the tallest
> in the contiguous US, and almost always has some snow, but I can never
> figure out which of the three large peaks is Whitney. It's always
> fascinating to me to drive along the base of a mountain range that rises
> almost straight up from the flat Owens Valley, less than a mile from the
> highway.
>
> Some of the E-W 'crossover' roads are great for Healeys; Hwy 155 from 99
> to 395 into Wofford Heights/Lake Isabella--there's a microbrewery in
> Kernville--is a great Healey road, one of few that have caused me brake
> fade on the twisty downhill side (Delano is pretty rough, just keep moving
> ;). Hwy 58 out of Bakersfield (avoid) through Tehachapi has a great road
> over the mountains (I have some footage, but it's 128MB). East of Lake
> Isabella on Hwy 178 is Walker pass, a fun and scenic ride (then you hit the
> bad part of 395). I've passed the internment camp monument/museum a few
> times, but never stopped. I plan to someday; we shouldn't forget what we
> did to loyal Americans who happened to look a little different and have
> some aggressive relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't
> know the story of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)
>
> I could go on, but don't want to give away ALL my secret, favorite roads.
> Anybody gonna do the Angeles Crest?
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/7/2021 1:00 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 several
> times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would recommend not
> driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the most boring, hot
> and desolate highway in the country. God forbid anyone has a breakdown.
> Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before another car passes by. Just
> think of hours before you see one.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Gary Anderson
> *Sent:* Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
>
>
>
> Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura
> West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you
> rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is
> absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT
> drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government
> put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's
> nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the
> drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along
> the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.
>
>
>
> Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5,
> then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you
> can cut over to BBL.
>
>
>
> Anyone else agree with me?
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sat May  8 07:51:20 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 09:51:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No ethanol gas
References: <000001d74411$3a726fb0$af574f10$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000001d74411$3a726fb0$af574f10$@verizon.net>



I just put a link on my site listing all gas stations in the US and Canada
purporting to sell gas with no ethanol in it. Parts, Fluids and Tools page
Fuel Section. More updates to come as time permits.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat May  8 13:44:05 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 15:44:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>

Looking through some of my old papers today and came across a 1987 photo of Dan Kilcup who passed years ago. Dan was an Austin Healey enthusiast that found his fun thing to do at the drag strip in Oregon. After his passing I was able to visit his widow and she graciously let us look at his old racer in the garage. I believe the car was sold but was still together as Dan raced it. 
There are many interesting Austin Healey stories out there. ....
P


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Sent from my iPhone

From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sat May  8 17:48:59 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 11:48:59 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11433DF025B3AA9285CA056EA5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>,
 <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB11433DF025B3AA9285CA056EA5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000201d74464$b913cd20$2b3b6760$@xtra.co.nz>

Gentlemen, to put things into perspective,

 

Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content from selected Mobil, and some BP and Caltex stations around the country. 

 

At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76 per litre ? or $6.66 per US gallon.  That is exactly NZ$8.00 per Imperial gallon.

 

I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that.

The further south we got, the worse the gas got.  It seems to be more prevalent in the South Island.

The car LOVES being back home in Auckland.

 

In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund roading and transport projects.   At least, that?s where our government tell us it?s going.

Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally hundreds of thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads!

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

 

I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in the last three months. Funny how that works.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

  _____  

From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com> >
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 5:23 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com <mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com> >
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >; Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>  <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas 

 

Welcome to my world.  That is around the normal price of fuel here in the UK.

Alan - from my iPad





On 7 May 2021, at 17:47, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com <mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com> > wrote:

? 

During my jaunt to the west coast meet in Parksville, BC in 2012 I indulged in a tank of Premium non-ethanol fuel. As I recall it was priced by the liter and calculated to about $6.50 per gallon. The car loved it. The card, not so much...

 

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 1:41 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>  <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas 

 

www.petro-canada.com <http://www.petro-canada.com> 





On May 7, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

? 

In the ?States, fuel is blended with ethanol (thanks to the corn lobby). Dunno about Canada.





On May 7, 2021, at 5:59 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

? 

re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?

 

Have I got that wrong Bob?

 

"Following the crude oil price shocks of the 1970?s, methanol blends for use in the onroad
vehicle fleet began extensive studies in the later 1970?s and the 1980?s. Based on
this early research, methanol blends containing up to 15 vol% (M15) were successfully
operated by automakers or oil companies in a number of large vehicle fleet trials (
~ 1000 vehicles each) in Sweden, Germany, New Zealand and China during that
time. Also during that time period, methanol gasoline blends containing as much as 5 vol% with co-solvent alcohols were
commercially introduced in Europe and the U.S.A. Because carburetted fuel systems with older elastomer parts were part of
vehicle fleets on the road at that time and had limited ability to handled high oxygen content in the fuel, the fully commercial
methanol blends were generally limited to 3 to 5 vol% of the gasoline blend with some co-solvents also added to provide fuel
stability. However, with today?s modern pressurised fuel injector systems using feedback control loops and also using more
advance fuel system materials, current experience suggests that methanol blends as high as 15 vol% (M15) of the gasoline
blend with adequate co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors can now be successfully used in today?s more modern vehicles in
use today. Many provinces in China have been commercially using M15 blends as early as 2005, and China?s M15 use has
been expanding because of very favourable economics compared to higher cost petroleum fuels."

 

M

 

On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 11:03 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

re: "Methanol[sic] lowers the boiling point ..."

Typo?



On 5/6/2021 6:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

Hi Ken, yes I think everyone with a 100 has encountered fuel delivery issues with modern fuels. Methanol lowers the boiling point of petrol to a point where it becomes a problem.  

With the 100 there are 2 distinct issues. 

 

Firstly, because the fuel pump and its associated lines are directly above the exhaust pipe, hot air heats them. The fuel in the suction side of the pump has, effectively, a lower boiling point than it would at atmospheric pressure. This fuel tends to boil if there isn't sufficient air circulation to keep the pump and lines cooled, as occurs while stopped in traffic on a hot day. True vapor lock occurs because the pump will not pump  sufficient volume of vapour to exceed the rate of its production by the boiling process.

 

Secondly the carburetor float chambers and the small fuel passage to the jet are very close to the exhaust manifold. 

The manifold radiates lots of heat which heats them. Again when the car is moving at a reasonable pace the incoming air through the grille and around the radiator is sufficient to maintain the carburetor at a low enough temperature to prohibit boiling but, again when stopped in traffic this doesn't happen.

 

I have managed to eliminate the first problem by installing a insulating sleeve from a modern car's AC hose over the fuel line from the tank to the pump.

 

For the second I have made small heatshields from 24 gauge galvanized steel to shield as much as possible of the carburetors from the radiated heat. This has helped considerably but not completely eliminated the problem. 

 

For the most part neither of these modifications are visible and I have found that fuel delivery issues, although not completely eliminated, are manageable. 

I am considering installing a small blower and duct sourcing air from behind the grille to see how much difference that makes but if course that will be visible.

Hope that helps, others may have found better solutions. 

 

M

 

 

On Mon., May 3, 2021, 2:58 p.m. Ken Fleming, <ahmg at aol.com <mailto:ahmg at aol.com> > wrote:

Michael , I thought you maybe have experience this ans have a solution . On my Bn1 which is M spec with carbs, advance distributed, LeMans Cam and Pistons has always suffered from what I call vapor lock of gas. Especially in hot weather . 
I am assuming the heat is from
Manifold and it placement near carbs or fuel pump/ battery near exhaust play a role but I could be wrong . I have asked other owners and they seem most of them not to have same problem. I do have a heat sheild added with little result.
I am at a loss as to
What to do
Next , but have you experienced this and have any suggestions. Are my assumptions
Correct on heat causing the issue.  Could today?s quality if gas be a issue?
I recall reading this was a common issue for 100?s to have vapor issues. 
Ken

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May  8 18:10:59 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 17:10:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <000201d74464$b913cd20$2b3b6760$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB11433DF025B3AA9285CA056EA5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <000201d74464$b913cd20$2b3b6760$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <12d3f0ba-3e75-af59-eaa2-d125e96ed915@comcast.net>

"... $2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol ..."

Before us Yankees get all excited, I believe this is per the 'research' 
method. In the 'States we use the average of the research and motor 
methods, and there's generally a 7-8 octane point spread between the 
two, so this would be equivalent to 93-94-octane here.

"... NO ethanol content ..."

Now, THIS gets me excited! I presume NZ doesn't have corn 
mega-agribusiness shoving their product into our cars.

Bob


On 5/8/2021 4:48 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> Gentlemen, to put things into perspective,
>
> Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per litre 
> for premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content from 
> selected *Mobil*, and some *BP* and *Caltex* stations around the country.
>
> At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76 
> per litre ? or $6.66 per *US gallon*.? That is exactly NZ$8.00 per 
> *Imperial gallon*.
>
> I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National 
> Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that.
>
> The further south we got, the worse the gas got.? It seems to be more 
> prevalent in the South Island.
>
> The car LOVES being back home in Auckland.
>
> In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund 
> roading and transport projects.?? At least, that?s where our 
> government tell us it?s going.
>
> Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally hundreds 
> of thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads!
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
> *To:* Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter 
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>
> I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working 
> on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in 
> the last three months. Funny how that works.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May  8 18:31:43 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 17:31:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-5LPTvAHE9GFyR+Av6E+b54z77VWhf+vNU5tvuerVfPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for sharing. Would be great to see more of the car

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, May 8, 2021, 12:48 PM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Looking through some of my old papers today and came across a 1987 photo
> of Dan Kilcup who passed years ago. Dan was an Austin Healey enthusiast
> that found his fun thing to do at the drag strip in Oregon. After his
> passing I was able to visit his widow and she graciously let us look at his
> old racer in the garage. I believe the car was sold but was still together
> as Dan raced it.
> There are many interesting Austin Healey stories out there. ....
> P
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat May  8 19:29:20 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 01:29:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-5LPTvAHE9GFyR+Av6E+b54z77VWhf+vNU5tvuerVfPQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
 <CABXhz8-5LPTvAHE9GFyR+Av6E+b54z77VWhf+vNU5tvuerVfPQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1696273638.322150.1620523761898@mail.yahoo.com>

IraThis is the only one I could find online.? Thought I had some additional photos on my PC but apparently not.Dan was a machinist and did a lot of builds of hot rods in the Portland area but the Healey became his race car. In time the car was fit with a Chevy straight 6.to go a bit fasterPerry

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 8, 2021 8:31 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer

Thanks for sharing. Would be great to see more of the car

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
On Sat, May 8, 2021, 12:48 PM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Looking through some of my old papers today and came across a 1987 photo of Dan Kilcup who passed years ago. Dan was an Austin Healey enthusiast that found his fun thing to do at the drag strip in Oregon. After his passing I was able to visit his widow and she graciously let us look at his old racer in the garage. I believe the car was sold but was still together as Dan raced it. 
There are many interesting Austin Healey stories out there. ....
P




Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat May  8 19:36:07 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 18:36:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <12d3f0ba-3e75-af59-eaa2-d125e96ed915@comcast.net>
References: <CY4PR13MB11437FA3CD3F3750BD505041A5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <D6477A62-3F9E-43B4-BB82-15FA487AF8FC@gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB11433DF025B3AA9285CA056EA5579@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <000201d74464$b913cd20$2b3b6760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <12d3f0ba-3e75-af59-eaa2-d125e96ed915@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMReK56WWe-jj2A6X+UKF+T9qpvTi48UotVWD6GrQE=TA@mail.gmail.com>

I was happy to get 92 Octane gas for my Harley Davidson back when I bought
it 20 years ago.  A few years later 92 Octane disappeared. We were told it
was very expensive to get that one more point of octane, so they
discontinued it.  If you now where to go, you can get Shell premium (91
octane) for $4.05 per gallon.  Not sure how much longer that price will
last though.
Mike MacLean

On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 5:11 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> "... $2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol ..."
>
> Before us Yankees get all excited, I believe this is per the 'research'
> method. In the 'States we use the average of the research and motor
> methods, and there's generally a 7-8 octane point spread between the two,
> so this would be equivalent to 93-94-octane here.
>
> "... NO ethanol content ..."
>
> Now, THIS gets me excited! I presume NZ doesn't have corn
> mega-agribusiness shoving their product into our cars.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/8/2021 4:48 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> Gentlemen, to put things into perspective,
>
>
>
> Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per litre for
> premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content from selected
> *Mobil*, and some *BP* and *Caltex* stations around the country.
>
>
>
> At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76 per
> litre ? or $6.66 per *US gallon*.  That is exactly NZ$8.00 per *Imperial
> gallon*.
>
>
>
> I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National
> Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that.
>
> The further south we got, the worse the gas got.  It seems to be more
> prevalent in the South Island.
>
> The car LOVES being back home in Auckland.
>
>
>
> In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund roading
> and transport projects.   At least, that?s where our government tell us
> it?s going.
>
> Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally hundreds of
> thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads!
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
>
> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
> *To:* Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com> <bluehealey at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael
> Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>
>
>
> I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working on
> ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in the last
> three months. Funny how that works.
>
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sat May  8 21:32:24 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 05:32:24 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
Message-ID: <1077887379.155691.1620531144276@mail.ziggo.nl>

In the Netherlands petrol costs ?1,90 for 95 E10 or about $6,95/US Gallon and rising; 98 E5 (mostly no ethanol yet but up to 5% allowed) is about $9,35/US gallon and rising.
Never had any problems with 95 E5 or 95 E10 though (ethanol supposedly ageing and affecting seals, gaskets, fuel lines or metals or because of vapour lock). I have been using 95 E5 when this was introduced in Europe in the late 1990's (I even regularly used the cheapest 95 E15 which became available in around 2005) in my Jensen-Healey (standard SU-fuel pump AUF301/AZX1308), Stromberg CD175 carbs, similar to SU, initially but now on 45mm DellOrto's) and Land Rover SIII, although this ran mainly on LPG but used petrol when I ran out of LPG, or any other car I had, carburetted or EFI.
In 2018 E10 was introduced widely and this also did not cause any problems, even after leaving the car untouched for a year with E10 in the tank. E15 has now been suspended by most petrol stations.
Of course ambient temperatures are generally moderate but can occasionally run into 35-40C, 95-105F, most certainly when holidaying in Italy, Spain or France.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sat May  8 23:23:59 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 22:23:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOgXuAsWFDNYrh5HvyfjPggDFj+QADx32d2e31zR9wE9A@mail.gmail.com>

I believe I have a negative ground SU fuel pump, but I'm not sure. If I
hook it up with the wrong polarity, what will happen?  Get hot and smoke?
Is there a way to check polarity first ...... before I ruin a good fuel
pump?
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May  8 23:49:39 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2021 22:49:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOgXuAsWFDNYrh5HvyfjPggDFj+QADx32d2e31zR9wE9A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOgXuAsWFDNYrh5HvyfjPggDFj+QADx32d2e31zR9wE9A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-E=EB3prUrmqbm07o9BqhuZg3f9u=6hd1O=vRt3ETVvA@mail.gmail.com>

What's the part # ?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, May 8, 2021, 10:24 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I believe I have a negative ground SU fuel pump, but I'm not sure. If I
> hook it up with the wrong polarity, what will happen?  Get hot and smoke?
> Is there a way to check polarity first ...... before I ruin a good fuel
> pump?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sun May  9 00:32:03 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 08:32:03 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <1505298820.156191.1620541923101@mail.ziggo.nl>

If you have the mostly used AUF301/AZX1308 with points you should not worry as these are dual polarity. However if you have an electronic version (EN or EP added to the model number, e.g. AZX1308EN = AZX 1308 Electronic Negative earth) you should not reverse polarity as this will damage the electronics.
If you do not know what SU-pump you have remove the Bakelite pump cover. If there is a small metal or grey/yellow cylinder with 47uF printed on it (capacitor) it is dual polarity and you will be OK.
If there is a green disk with electronic components and no points it is polarity sensitive
If there is a small disk shape component between the feed screw and the small screw for the blades it is a diode and the pump will be polarity sensitive. Pos. earth pumps should have a red tape around the coil body.
If it is a late pump there could be a very small more or less ball shaped item fitted to one of the pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds the points blade which probably is a sort of bidirectional Zener diode or transil. Such a pump should be dual sensitive.
When I rebuild my pumps I replace the original transil or diode with a 18V transil according to my own specs. The transil is fitted to one of the pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds the points blade. If the pump has a capacitor fitted I fit an extra transil in parallel with the capacitor. So all my rebuild pumps are dual polarity.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun May  9 07:22:29 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 09:22:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <1077887379.155691.1620531144276@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1077887379.155691.1620531144276@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKT92583jRLybq9i6k6keL2D5gLTjA00FVdH-5KhV2yYw@mail.gmail.com>

This is a well written article on ethanol in gasoline  .. long but worth
the read.
Hardly surprising that we have vapor lock problems.
https://www.militarytrader.com/mv-101/notes-from-the-field-ethanol-vapor-lock-and-other-gas-woes

On Sat., May 8, 2021, 11:32 p.m. Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> In the Netherlands petrol costs ?1,90 for 95 E10 or about $6,95/US Gallon
> and rising; 98 E5 (mostly no ethanol yet but up to 5% allowed) is about
> $9,35/US gallon and rising.
> Never had any problems with 95 E5 or 95 E10 though (ethanol supposedly
> ageing and affecting seals, gaskets, fuel lines or metals or because of
> vapour lock). I have been using 95 E5 when this was introduced in Europe in
> the late 1990's (I even regularly used the cheapest 95 E15 which became
> available in around 2005) in my Jensen-Healey (standard SU-fuel pump
> AUF301/AZX1308), Stromberg CD175 carbs, similar to SU, initially but now on
> 45mm DellOrto's) and Land Rover SIII, although this ran mainly on LPG but
> used petrol when I ran out of LPG, or any other car I had, carburetted or
> EFI.
> In 2018 E10 was introduced widely and this also did not cause any
> problems, even after leaving the car untouched for a year with E10 in the
> tank. E15 has now been suspended by most petrol stations.
> Of course ambient temperatures are generally moderate but can occasionally
> run into 35-40C, 95-105F, most certainly when holidaying in Italy, Spain or
> France.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sun May  9 10:42:23 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 12:42:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <1696273638.322150.1620523761898@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
 <CABXhz8-5LPTvAHE9GFyR+Av6E+b54z77VWhf+vNU5tvuerVfPQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1696273638.322150.1620523761898@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfn+38g+yxbVk4wPMRYFwfCyGMa2_=n1GUcLHFG=o7sNQ@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting front hub and wheel arrangement.  Those sure aren't Dunlop "D"
Type aluminum wheels!  The triple intake stacks in the shroud are also
interesting.  Maybe three Rochester 2 bbls. under there?

Aloha,
Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
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On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 9:54 PM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ira
> This is the only one I could find online.  Thought I had some additional
> photos on my PC but apparently not.
> Dan was a machinist and did a lot of builds of hot rods in the Portland
> area but the Healey became his race car. In time the car was fit with a
> Chevy straight 6.to go a bit faster
> Perry
> [image: Dans Healey.jpg]
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 8, 2021 8:31 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
>
> Thanks for sharing. Would be great to see more of the car
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021, 12:48 PM Perry Small via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Looking through some of my old papers today and came across a 1987 photo
> of Dan Kilcup who passed years ago. Dan was an Austin Healey enthusiast
> that found his fun thing to do at the drag strip in Oregon. After his
> passing I was able to visit his widow and she graciously let us look at his
> old racer in the garage. I believe the car was sold but was still together
> as Dan raced it.
> There are many interesting Austin Healey stories out there. ....
> P
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun May  9 11:48:30 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 17:48:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfn+38g+yxbVk4wPMRYFwfCyGMa2_=n1GUcLHFG=o7sNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
 <CABXhz8-5LPTvAHE9GFyR+Av6E+b54z77VWhf+vNU5tvuerVfPQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1696273638.322150.1620523761898@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZfn+38g+yxbVk4wPMRYFwfCyGMa2_=n1GUcLHFG=o7sNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <765116764.395216.1620582510115@mail.yahoo.com>

RickThose are wheels that only a man who trusts his work would run on a car. Knockoffs, spline on knock off hub not engaging the wheel, lightening holes, interesting stiffeners (flat spokes) welded to wheel and knockoff seat and probably other things that we can't see. All to drive in a straight line for a 1/4 mile at a time.? My understanding is that Dan was an early and very successful hot rod cam grinder, cylinder head guru and overall very good machinist.? He had a shop in Portland Oregon.??
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 9, 2021 12:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer

Interesting front hub and wheel arrangement.? Those sure aren't Dunlop "D" Type aluminum wheels!? The triple intake stacks in the shroud are also interesting.? Maybe three Rochester 2 bbls. under there?
Aloha,Rick Neville

|  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |









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From nstbennett at gmail.com  Sun May  9 12:29:12 2021
From: nstbennett at gmail.com (N.S. Bennett)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 12:29:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <mailman.521.1620578562.3751.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.521.1620578562.3751.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAEcLKwjuZZCqrDVoy=kWK5d3Hh5j4KwYyTnKTsUfdCdfqLP6Hg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It was a
good read.

Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before, what's the
general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?

I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has once
again made me question my practice.

Interested in the list's thoughts...

Cheers!
Nathan
'66 BJ8
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May  9 13:16:12 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 12:16:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAEcLKwjuZZCqrDVoy=kWK5d3Hh5j4KwYyTnKTsUfdCdfqLP6Hg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.521.1620578562.3751.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <CAEcLKwjuZZCqrDVoy=kWK5d3Hh5j4KwYyTnKTsUfdCdfqLP6Hg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a2804523-9097-738d-28cc-e565c2e4068a@comcast.net>

"... what's the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?"

Use the lowest octane that doesn't cause the engine to ping/knock. For a 
stock BJ8's 9.1:1 nominal compression ratio 91 is plenty good, and 89 
generally works OK. If you've got higher compression, higher octane gas 
will be needed. Note with a 'hot' cam with a lot of valve overlap the 
dynamic CR may be less than calculated and, theoretically at least, a 
lower octane gas can be used (but if you've got a hot cam why would 
you?). My Mustang has a 12:1 compression ratio, but with variable valve 
and ignition timing will run on 87, albeit with a loss of power.

In the mountain west, i.e. the 'high desert' areas you often can't get 
better than 89 at most stations anyway because the air is less dense and 
CR is effectively reduced.

Bob

On 5/9/2021 11:29 AM, N.S. Bennett wrote:
> Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It 
> was a good read.
>
> Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before, what's 
> the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?
>
> I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has 
> once again made me question my practice.
>
> Interested in the list's thoughts...
>
> Cheers!
> Nathan
> '66 BJ8
>
>


From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun May  9 20:59:52 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 19:59:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1505298820.156191.1620541923101@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1505298820.156191.1620541923101@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPP1XvnGoVTfGhMopkM3yagxjP6fJVJqbiym0d5JBRBiQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a photo of my pump with the cover removed.  The pump is an AUF305.
The yellow cylinder says 47n, + or minus 10%, 400V.   So, is this a
positive or negative ground pump?

On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 11:32 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
wrote:

> If you have the mostly used AUF301/AZX1308 with points you should not
> worry as these are dual polarity. However if you have an electronic version
> (EN or EP added to the model number, e.g. AZX1308EN = AZX 1308 Electronic
> Negative earth) you should not reverse polarity as this will damage the
> electronics.
> If you do not know what SU-pump you have remove the Bakelite pump cover.
> If there is a small metal or grey/yellow cylinder with 47uF printed on it
> (capacitor) it is dual polarity and you will be OK.
> If there is a green disk with electronic components and no points it is
> polarity sensitive
> If there is a small disk shape component between the feed screw and the
> small screw for the blades it is a diode and the pump will be polarity
> sensitive. Pos. earth pumps should have a red tape around the coil body.
> If it is a late pump there could be a very small more or less ball shaped
> item fitted to one of the pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds
> the points blade which probably is a sort of bidirectional Zener diode or
> transil. Such a pump should be dual sensitive.
> When I rebuild my pumps I replace the original transil or diode with a 18V
> transil according to my own specs. The transil is fitted to one of the
> pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds the points blade. If the
> pump has a capacitor fitted I fit an extra transil in parallel with the
> capacitor. So all my rebuild pumps are dual polarity.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Sun May  9 21:21:40 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 03:21:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
References: <1534059122.3388717.1620616900352.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1534059122.3388717.1620616900352@mail.yahoo.com>

Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies?? It's at the right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock tower.

A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun May  9 21:28:23 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 9 May 2021 20:28:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPeYPjJoQMYwaAKbx7GwBK7ESdmbqtk3bvGJrr_AjMcFQ@mail.gmail.com>

It is with much regret that I must report that Danny's car has been
"restored" by a person in the Vancouver, Washington area.  The car has been
on the Portland, Oregon Craigslist over the last year and listed for
$59,000.  It has been painted black and does not look like Danny's car any
longer.  I just checked but it is not on Craigslist at this moment.

I saw this car and met Danny for the first time in 1978 or '79.  The car
was in the Forest Grove Concour D'elegance. The Chevy six (or was a Jimmy
six?) was painted Healey green and had triple carbs.  I was fairly new to
Healeys at the time but I knew that something wasn't quite right with that
engine.  Danny explained to me that he held the NHRA record in his class
with the Austin 3000 engine but then the NHRA changed the rules. That's why
he upgraded to the Chevy/GMC six.

When I saw the photos of his "restored" car on Craigslist I was
dumbfounded. What had been an iconic gold colored, record holding,  unique
looking drag race car,  is now a black, BN4, street Healey with the wrong
engine.  So sad!


On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 12:47 PM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Looking through some of my old papers today and came across a 1987 photo
> of Dan Kilcup who passed years ago. Dan was an Austin Healey enthusiast
> that found his fun thing to do at the drag strip in Oregon. After his
> passing I was able to visit his widow and she graciously let us look at his
> old racer in the garage. I believe the car was sold but was still together
> as Dan raced it.
> There are many interesting Austin Healey stories out there. ....
> P
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun May  9 22:00:15 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 12:00:15 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKT92583jRLybq9i6k6keL2D5gLTjA00FVdH-5KhV2yYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1077887379.155691.1620531144276@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CAB3i7LKT92583jRLybq9i6k6keL2D5gLTjA00FVdH-5KhV2yYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL2zF8+n5JwrxO87hV_yrdb9W4ieQ=uAHopoeR_1+E8DQ@mail.gmail.com>

In Hong Kong we have a choice between "Regular" and "Premium" but bizarrely
it is all 98 RON, maybe there's a few more additives in the Premium
Fuel?!?!?! who knows.

Price is typically just about USD 10 a gallon, but there is no ethanol in
the fuel..... so I have that going for me.

Now you know why my BJ9 is a Tesla, the amount I save on fuel costs per
month pays for my monthly car payment!  No joke!

Cheers,

Alan


>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Mon May 10 01:41:22 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 09:41:22 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <205019034.173663.1620632482750@mail.ziggo.nl>

Richard,
That is a dual polarity pump. So no worries about wiring it up wrongly. It is the AUF301/303/305. I have never been able to identify the differences if any between the three. This one is an original SU, not a later Burlen-SU. It dates from around the '70's. Early ones had a metal capacitor.
It looks to be in really good nick.
Clean the points before fitting using some flower paper. It is a bit fiddly. Also check if the adjustment of the points is OK.
The space between the front of the points blade and the Bakelite pedestal should be 0,9mm. the space between the lower protrusion and the top of the coil housing should be 2,7mm.
Try the pump before fitting in the car. No problem running it dry for a few seconds.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Mon May 10 06:34:06 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 08:34:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] non-Healey
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1620650052.3748.healeys@autox.team.net>

Some time ago I posted a question asking for sources of help on a Jag SS-100 (no, not mine).  A Lister replied with the name of someone in Colorado who?d done several for Pebble?but I?ve lost that info.  If that person is reading this, please contact me off-list.

Thanks!
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon May 10 07:58:41 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 13:58:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPeYPjJoQMYwaAKbx7GwBK7ESdmbqtk3bvGJrr_AjMcFQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
 <CAKkXjqPeYPjJoQMYwaAKbx7GwBK7ESdmbqtk3bvGJrr_AjMcFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <814755460.2525111.1620655121907@mail.yahoo.com>

As an aside, I initially fitted a Chevy inline 6 in my BJ8 during a ground up restoration. It was painted Healey engine green & make to look like a Healey engine in as many ways as possible. It was also fitted with triple side draft twin choke Weber DCOE 45 carburetors which kept most people from noticing the engine! See attached photos. It was dyno'ed at 298 HP. I eventfully blew up the clutch, requiring pulling every thing out, so I decided to rebuild the original Healey engine & re-installed it.?
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 9, 2021 10:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer

It is with much regret that I must report that Danny's car has been "restored" by a person in the Vancouver, Washington area.? The car has been on the Portland, Oregon Craigslist over the last year and listed for $59,000.? It has been painted black and does not look like Danny's car any longer.? I just checked but it is not on Craigslist at this moment.
I saw this car and met Danny for the first time in 1978 or '79.? The car was in the Forest Grove Concour D'elegance. The Chevy six (or was a Jimmy six?) was painted Healey green and had triple carbs.? I was fairly new to Healeys at the time but I knew that something wasn't quite right with that engine.? Danny explained to me that he held the NHRA record in his class with the Austin 3000 engine but then the NHRA changed the rules. That's why he upgraded to the Chevy/GMC six.? 

When I saw the photos of his "restored" car on Craigslist I was dumbfounded. What had been an iconic gold colored, record holding,? unique looking drag race car,? is now a black, BN4, street Healey with the wrong engine.? So sad!?


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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon May 10 08:30:25 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 07:30:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <205019034.173663.1620632482750@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <205019034.173663.1620632482750@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOOVztD673G0sywLU=+TQLKmK-WO1=LJzeZ=zrsUjH_LA@mail.gmail.com>

Kees,

Thank you for sharing your wealth of information.  I have printed many of
your past posts about SU fuel pumps because I have a number of Healeys and
a number of original SU fuel pumps, most of which need to be rebuilt.  I
much prefer to rebuild, and save, an original Healey component than to
purchase a new piece. Plus, I get the satisfaction of learning and
mastering new (to me) technology.

This forum and the listers that contribute are an invaluable resource.
Thank you all.

Richard



On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 12:41 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
wrote:

> Richard,
> That is a dual polarity pump. So no worries about wiring it up wrongly. It
> is the AUF301/303/305. I have never been able to identify the differences
> if any between the three. This one is an original SU, not a later
> Burlen-SU. It dates from around the '70's. Early ones had a metal capacitor.
> It looks to be in really good nick.
> Clean the points before fitting using some flower paper. It is a bit
> fiddly. Also check if the adjustment of the points is OK.
> The space between the front of the points blade and the Bakelite pedestal
> should be 0,9mm. the space between the lower protrusion and the top of the
> coil housing should be 2,7mm.
> Try the pump before fitting in the car. No problem running it dry for a
> few seconds.
> Cheers,
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon May 10 09:38:49 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 15:38:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
Message-ID: <6f8f09d8af04ec7937be5f36c677d6ce725daa17@webmail>

David, I don't know for sure, but it's my understanding that the
frames were built by John Thompson Motor Pressings. Frequently this
number has been partially obscured by weld bead. Jensen put their
number on the body plate, as well as another number in three places:
the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator; on
the driver's side (in reference to LHC cars) bonnet flange where the
hinge is bolted; and on the underside of the boot lid where the prop
rod attaches (example photos attached).My guess is that the number you
show was put there by the frame manufacturer. I haven't been able to
connect the number to any other number on the car.
BTW: I have been doing a study of the "Jensen numbers" in the three
places cited above. It would be helpful to be able to document as many
of them as possible. So far, I have them for 222 BJ8s. They do have a
relation to the VIN of a car, but a closer correspondence with the
body number. Any BJ8 owners who wants to contribute to the database of
these numbers to help us understand more about them should send me a
photo of what you find on your BJ8, if possible. If not, then just
send the numbers to me. I also need the chassis number and body number
of the car.
Thanks!Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at
LargeHavelock, NC USA

	-----------------------------------------From: "David Lodge via
Healeys" 
To: "Austin Healey"
Cc: "David Lodge"
Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 11:24:18PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

  Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies? It's at the
right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock
tower.

 A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.

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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Mon May 10 09:48:27 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 17:48:27 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>

Richard,

Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep developing the technique and methods.
I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be glued, and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite or any other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a very strong and lasting repair.
Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the points. Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and fit the transil in parallel with it. It will decrease sparking tremendously.
In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect the points.
If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
Cheers,
Kees
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon May 10 10:15:44 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 12:15:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <009101d745b7$bb487a60$31d96f20$@gmail.com>

Speaking of Facet pumps, so many years ago I was a member of the MEMA Export managers division and had the opportunity to share stories with many of its members.  The Export Manager of Bendix told me he had worked for a long time with BMC and Donald Healey to replace the SU-Pumps with the Facet Pump.  He got the approval to be the new supplier of the Healey cars when a few months later the decision to cease production was made. 

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 11:48 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question

 

Richard,

Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep developing the technique and methods.
I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be glued, and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite or any other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a very strong and lasting repair.
Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the points. Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and fit the transil in parallel with it. It will decrease sparking tremendously.
In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect the points.
If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
Cheers,
Kees

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon May 10 11:07:05 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 13:07:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
In-Reply-To: <814755460.2525111.1620655121907@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706.ref@aol.com>
 <53C0FF40-D505-4CE6-ABB4-2F55FF4EA706@aol.com>
 <CAKkXjqPeYPjJoQMYwaAKbx7GwBK7ESdmbqtk3bvGJrr_AjMcFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <814755460.2525111.1620655121907@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK_qZ_WropD+7pSYsmtDYNtADNw9CyQPsgmXLeHXKv86g@mail.gmail.com>

There is a story about Grant Clark a well know character around Ontario
racing circles trying to pass off a Chev 6 in a Healey many many years ago.

M

On Mon., May 10, 2021, 10:02 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As an aside, I initially fitted a Chevy inline 6 in my BJ8 during a ground
> up restoration. It was painted Healey engine green & make to look like a
> Healey engine in as many ways as possible. It was also fitted with triple
> side draft twin choke Weber DCOE 45 carburetors which kept most people from
> noticing the engine! See attached photos. It was dyno'ed at 298 HP. I
> eventfully blew up the clutch, requiring pulling every thing out, so I
> decided to rebuild the original Healey engine & re-installed it.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, May 9, 2021 10:28 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memories of an Austin Healey Drag Racer
>
> It is with much regret that I must report that Danny's car has been
> "restored" by a person in the Vancouver, Washington area.  The car has been
> on the Portland, Oregon Craigslist over the last year and listed for
> $59,000.  It has been painted black and does not look like Danny's car any
> longer.  I just checked but it is not on Craigslist at this moment.
>
> I saw this car and met Danny for the first time in 1978 or '79.  The car
> was in the Forest Grove Concour D'elegance. The Chevy six (or was a Jimmy
> six?) was painted Healey green and had triple carbs.  I was fairly new to
> Healeys at the time but I knew that something wasn't quite right with that
> engine.  Danny explained to me that he held the NHRA record in his class
> with the Austin 3000 engine but then the NHRA changed the rules. That's why
> he upgraded to the Chevy/GMC six.
>
> When I saw the photos of his "restored" car on Craigslist I was
> dumbfounded. What had been an iconic gold colored, record holding,  unique
> looking drag race car,  is now a black, BN4, street Healey with the wrong
> engine.  So sad!
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 10 11:22:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 10:22:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>

The late Dave DuBois pursued the same retirement pastime on this side of 
The Pond. He designed a retrofit using the points to switch a power 
transistor, with the expectation that relieving the points of most of 
the current-passing duties would extend their life; he found that doing 
so caused the points to wear faster, as the current was insufficient to 
clean the points surfaces. He later designed a solid-state solution 
using an optical switch; I had him convert a couple pumps for me and 
although the conversion was very professional--and he bench tested them 
for 24hrs continuous--I had mixed success with them. My results with 
SU's SS pumps, either conversions or off-the-shelf has been inconsistent 
as well. I think Facet avoids this problem by having their pumps run 
more-or-less continuously. I tried transils and didn't get the expected 
result; I guess me and SU pumps just don't get along, but like some 
girlfriends I've had I stick with them anyway.

Dave also noted, as did I, that the points available at the time were 
pure crap. They came in unmarked white boxes and appeared to be made out 
of (shiny) silver--go figure--whereas tungsten is a dull metallic color. 
Maybe the situation has improved in the last few years, but I haven't 
bought any for a while.

Bob

ps. If the pump is fitted with a capacitor, and the capacitor has '+' 
and '-' marks it will be polarity-sensitive (hence the marks).


On 5/10/2021 8:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago 
> after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep 
> developing the technique and methods.
> I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to 
> the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are 
> intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) 
> separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When 
> cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum 
> powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber 
> in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have 
> perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. 
> One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. 
> Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle 
> and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be 
> glued, and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite 
> or any other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a 
> very strong and lasting repair.
> Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by 
> polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new 
> points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
> The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric 
> corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more 
> than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem 
> with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it 
> would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After 
> that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to 
> fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected 
> it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original 
> components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working 
> flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the 
> points. Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil 
> (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and 
> fit the transil in parallel with it. It will decrease sparking 
> tremendously.
> In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often 
> no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these 
> units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect 
> the points.
> If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The 
> points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you 
> when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel 
> pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
> Cheers,
> Kees
>


From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Mon May 10 11:27:27 2021
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 10:27:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6WTQRUAc73gmHQLpuFfwnA7kTL3jpwef4h2p6T3u5aFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn9shC5jjDw9_aU2y=EiFKTX=+-3GJO+WmKMz4ic5XCcdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d7437b$a7f88740$f7e995c0$@verizon.net>
 <a916e1b8-f206-caf7-2624-9c7533ab79bd@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6WTQRUAc73gmHQLpuFfwnA7kTL3jpwef4h2p6T3u5aFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7F82C31EA5FD451EB3D0C2F0479608F5@Inspiron660>

Having driven up and down 395 maybe a hundred times between L.A. and Mammoth, I would simply caution everyone that there are very tightly patrolled speed traps in Independence, Lone Pine and Big Pine.  Even a few miles over the posted speed limit can get you a ticket.  And, slowing down needs to be complete by the time you pass that speed limit sign or you are risking a ticket.  My friends and I have been driving to Mammoth Mountain and other sites along the way since the late  1960?s and there are always Highway Patrol giving out tickets in these towns.  Yes, I have received my share.  
It is a beautiful ride, especially if there is still snow on the peaks but can be very hot in the Mohave desert on the southern end.   I will look forward to seeing some of you at Big Bear next week.  Have a safe drive.

Ron Fine


From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2021 4:25 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: Austin Healey 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?

Bob Spidell said:  we shouldn't forget what we did to loyal Americans who happened to look a little different and have some aggressive relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't know the story of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)
--------------------------

Here here!!!

Best--Michael Oritt


On Fri, May 7, 2021 at 10:36 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  Why the hate for 395? Sure, some parts--mostly the southern end (avoid Kramer Junction if you can)--are hot and boring, but parts are some of my favorite pieces of road. You have Mono Lake--well, what's left of it--and you can stop and check out the tufas. There is a Chevron station at the corner of 120 (Yosemite) and 395 that has a deli with great chow (it used to have a trapeze, never figured that out). Just south you can take a break from the 4-lane and take the June Lake Loop for some cool air and scenery. The little towns along the way are getting touristy--I think Bishop has a new microbrewery--and Independence, Lone Pine and Big Pine are, well, 'quaint' ('Tremors' was filmed near Lone Pine). Mt. Whitney is the tallest in the contiguous US, and almost always has some snow, but I can never figure out which of the three large peaks is Whitney. It's always fascinating to me to drive along the base of a mountain range that rises almost straight up from the flat Owens Valley, less than a mile from the highway.

  Some of the E-W 'crossover' roads are great for Healeys; Hwy 155 from 99 to 395 into Wofford Heights/Lake Isabella--there's a microbrewery in Kernville--is a great Healey road, one of few that have caused me brake fade on the twisty downhill side (Delano is pretty rough, just keep moving ;). Hwy 58 out of Bakersfield (avoid) through Tehachapi has a great road over the mountains (I have some footage, but it's 128MB). East of Lake Isabella on Hwy 178 is Walker pass, a fun and scenic ride (then you hit the bad part of 395). I've passed the internment camp monument/museum a few times, but never stopped. I plan to someday; we shouldn't forget what we did to loyal Americans who happened to look a little different and have some aggressive relatives--we're doing it again, it seems--and if you don't know the story of the 442nd Infantry Regiment you should acquaint yourself:

  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/442nd_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States)

  I could go on, but don't want to give away ALL my secret, favorite roads. Anybody gonna do the Angeles Crest?

  Bob


  On 5/7/2021 1:00 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:

    Having lived in Nevada for several years, I have driven route 395 several times to the Bay Area in an air conditioned car and would recommend not driving that route unless you are in the same. It is the most boring, hot and desolate highway in the country. God forbid anyone has a breakdown. Doesn?t take long for bones to bleach before another car passes by. Just think of hours before you see one.



    John Sims

    www.healey6.com

    Matawan, NJ



    From: Healeys mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net On Behalf Of Gary Anderson
    Sent: Friday, May 7, 2021 3:40 PM
    To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
    Subject: [Healeys] your trip to Conclave - Down 395?



    Ira, Based on the experience of a group of us who drove to the Ventura West Coast Meet in our Healeys many years ago, I would strongly suggest you rethink the idea of driving down 395. Yes, it's shorter in time, but it is absolutely the most desolate, boring and hot (let me emphasize that) HOT drive you can possible imagine. There's a reason that the U.S. government put the internment camps out in that area during World War II -- there's nothing within 100 miles of the camps. When we were driving, one of the drivers called out on his CB -- "Stop the next time you see any shade along the road" -- we drove for another hour before we saw a tree.



    Take a little more time and do the traditional route down Interstate 5, then cut over to 101 and follow that down to north of Los Angeles where you can cut over to BBL.



    Anyone else agree with me?



    Gary Anderson


     
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon May 10 11:33:22 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 17:33:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos
References: <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938@mail.yahoo.com>

I am currently trying to figure out what I have & what I need to source in terms of brackets/braces under the dash. I cannot seem to find any information in the shop manuals, parts book or concourse guidelines. The areas of interest are the steering column, choke cable mounting, "AIR" cable mounting, heater mounting, parcel shelf mounting & anything else under or hidden behind (or is that in front of the dash?? If you have any photos of this area I would appreciate receiving them.Thanks,Gary?PS: I will be off line for a week, so will not be able to respond, so thanks in advance!
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Mon May 10 11:55:39 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 19:55:39 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <1256875742.15502.1620669339361@mail.ziggo.nl>

Dave Dubois cooperated with Pel de Haas in the Netherlands who is still converting SU pumps the same way Dave did. The system works well but can be susceptible to dirt, very much like the optical electronic ignitions from Luminition in the past.
It amazes me that you have had so little success with the SU fuel pumps. If rebuild following the instructions to the letter you will have a pump that lasts for ever but you do have to operate the pump/drive the car regularly and also make sure the pump is fitted correctly:horizontal and the outlet on top!!

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 10 13:33:31 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 15:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <63df3c03-7d41-b081-716d-aea9f1eae597@earthlink.net>

Kees,

What's flower paper?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/10/21 11:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago 
> after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep 
> developing the technique and methods.
> I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to 
> the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are 
> intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully) 
> separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When 
> cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum 
> powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber 
> in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have 
> perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's. 
> One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge. 
> Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle 
> and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be 
> glued, and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite 
> or any other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a 
> very strong and lasting repair.
> Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by 
> polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new 
> points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
> The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric 
> corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more 
> than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem 
> with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it 
> would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After 
> that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to 
> fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected 
> it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original 
> components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working 
> flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the 
> points. Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil 
> (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and 
> fit the transil in parallel with it. It will decrease sparking 
> tremendously.
> In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often 
> no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these 
> units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect 
> the points.
> If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The 
> points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you 
> when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel 
> pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
> Cheers,
> Kees
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Mon May 10 13:39:15 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 21:39:15 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <1418713783.18473.1620675555884@mail.ziggo.nl>

Very fine sandpaper like grade 3000 or even finer.
Cheers,
Kees
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon May 10 13:47:27 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 15:47:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7AhkaOXi3RLce5RF1_E2bYow8H7W8md+D48MB==DviDA@mail.gmail.com>

I have a double-header on my 100 that Dave converted to solid state and
rebuilt for me--it has performed faultlessly for probably ten years it is
indeed interesting that several knowledgeable people have such differing
experiences with SU solid state pumps, or for that matter other pieces of
equipment, and it is hard to charge off either consistent success or
repeated failures to luck of the draw.  In the same vein, notwithstanding
the popularity of FACET cubes I have had very little luck with them and on
my Weber-carbed race cars I use Carter 4070's which have performed
perfectly.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 1:22 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> The late Dave DuBois pursued the same retirement pastime on this side of
> The Pond. He designed a retrofit using the points to switch a power
> transistor, with the expectation that relieving the points of most of
> the current-passing duties would extend their life; he found that doing
> so caused the points to wear faster, as the current was insufficient to
> clean the points surfaces. He later designed a solid-state solution
> using an optical switch; I had him convert a couple pumps for me and
> although the conversion was very professional--and he bench tested them
> for 24hrs continuous--I had mixed success with them. My results with
> SU's SS pumps, either conversions or off-the-shelf has been inconsistent
> as well. I think Facet avoids this problem by having their pumps run
> more-or-less continuously. I tried transils and didn't get the expected
> result; I guess me and SU pumps just don't get along, but like some
> girlfriends I've had I stick with them anyway.
>
> Dave also noted, as did I, that the points available at the time were
> pure crap. They came in unmarked white boxes and appeared to be made out
> of (shiny) silver--go figure--whereas tungsten is a dull metallic color.
> Maybe the situation has improved in the last few years, but I haven't
> bought any for a while.
>
> Bob
>
> ps. If the pump is fitted with a capacitor, and the capacitor has '+'
> and '-' marks it will be polarity-sensitive (hence the marks).
>
>
> On 5/10/2021 8:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> > Richard,
> >
> > Rebuilding SU-pumps is therapeutic and satisfying. I started years ago
> > after I retired. I still discover new things about them and keep
> > developing the technique and methods.
> > I always prefer to keep the 3-layer diaphragm as it is far superior to
> > the later 2 or even single layer ones. As long as all three layers are
> > intact, reasonably supple, not cracked and can be (very carefully)
> > separated from each other without damage they are usually OK. When
> > cleaned (brake cleaner) and dried I dust them with a little talcum
> > powder to prevent them from sticking in the future and keep the rubber
> > in good condition. In the past I used some rubber grease. I still have
> > perfect original diaphragms from pumps that were fitted in the '50's.
> > One thing which is important is to take care with the Bakelite bridge.
> > Do not overtighten the fixing screws as the Bakelite is rather brittle
> > and cracks easily. However the plus side is that Bakelite can be
> > glued, and if bits are missing reconstructed, very well using araldite
> > or any other suitable epoxy glue. Same for the cap. It will leave a
> > very strong and lasting repair.
> > Points are usually fit for sanding the worst pitting followed by
> > polishing them with flower paper. Old point may be preferable to new
> > points, the old ones are probably a better quality. They hardly wear.
> > The main reason the SU-pumps are giving up is lack of use as electric
> > corrosion between the points will stop them working. I have done more
> > than 160.000miles in my first Jensen-Healey and never had one problem
> > with the fuel pump. Even after I laid up the car for about 10 years it
> > would still pump the fuel on my yearly start up of the engine. After
> > that it was left to its own devices and when I took it out in 2008 to
> > fit in my present J-H it failed! I took it apart, cleaned, inspected
> > it, polished the points and rebuild it with all its original
> > components bar the seals for fuel hose connectors. It has been working
> > flawlessly ever since and that was needed was a cleaning of the
> > points. Earlier I replaced the capacitor with a transil
> > (bi-directional Zener diode), 1.5 KE18CA. I now keep the capacitor and
> > fit the transil in parallel with it. It will decrease sparking
> > tremendously.
> > In very old pumps single instead of double points are fitted and often
> > no capacitor is fitted at all from the factory. When rebuilding these
> > units I always fit a transil with or without a capacitor to protect
> > the points.
> > If you want to carry a spare fuel pump, do not use an SU-pump. The
> > points will corrode in the boot after some time and it will fail you
> > when you need it. Better to get one of those $15 simple Facet fuel
> > pumps. They are crude, make a lot of noise but will get you home.
> > Cheers,
> > Kees
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 10 14:10:18 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 13:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos
In-Reply-To: <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DC1C7624D1D74C7DB2F3995843B0A080@DavidNockHP>


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com 

From: warthodson--- via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 10:33 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos

I am currently trying to figure out what I have & what I need to source in terms of brackets/braces under the dash. I cannot seem to find any information in the shop manuals, parts book or concourse guidelines. The areas of interest are the steering column, choke cable mounting, "AIR" cable mounting, heater mounting, parcel shelf mounting & anything else under or hidden behind (or is that in front of the dash?  If you have any photos of this area I would appreciate receiving them. 
Thanks,
Gary 
PS: I will be off line for a week, so will not be able to respond, so thanks in advance!



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon May 10 15:05:38 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 17:05:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos
In-Reply-To: <DC1C7624D1D74C7DB2F3995843B0A080@DavidNockHP>
References: <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1396291549.2054211.1620668002938@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DC1C7624D1D74C7DB2F3995843B0A080@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <00db01d745e0$3a882230$af986690$@gmail.com>

David:

 

Wonderful pictures.  Would you have the same set for a BJ8, it would be great to have when I have my head under the dash.

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Nock BCS
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 4:10 PM
To: warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos

 



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>  

 

From: warthodson--- via Healeys 

Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 10:33 AM

To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos

 

I am currently trying to figure out what I have & what I need to source in terms of brackets/braces under the dash. I cannot seem to find any information in the shop manuals, parts book or concourse guidelines. The areas of interest are the steering column, choke cable mounting, "AIR" cable mounting, heater mounting, parcel shelf mounting & anything else under or hidden behind (or is that in front of the dash?  If you have any photos of this area I would appreciate receiving them. 

Thanks,

Gary 

PS: I will be off line for a week, so will not be able to respond, so thanks in advance!

 

  _____  

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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon May 10 15:07:27 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 21:07:27 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-E=EB3prUrmqbm07o9BqhuZg3f9u=6hd1O=vRt3ETVvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOgXuAsWFDNYrh5HvyfjPggDFj+QADx32d2e31zR9wE9A@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CABXhz8-E=EB3prUrmqbm07o9BqhuZg3f9u=6hd1O=vRt3ETVvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143B9B1639C0AB414983FC3A5549@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

A normal SU pump is not polarity sensitive. If it uses electronics (diodes, transistors etc) in its switching system it is polarity sensitive and wil leak smoke...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 9, 2021 5:49 AM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question

What's the part # ?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, May 8, 2021, 10:24 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
I believe I have a negative ground SU fuel pump, but I'm not sure. If I hook it up with the wrong polarity, what will happen?  Get hot and smoke?
Is there a way to check polarity first ...... before I ruin a good fuel pump?
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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon May 10 15:45:30 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 21:45:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Handbrake assembly
References: <97301236.889718.1620683130704.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <97301236.889718.1620683130704@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello listers!Anybody out there got a complete handbrake assembly looking for a new home? ?Condition good or better. ?Can you provide a couple pix? ?Am considering the addition of e brake to my hot rod.Respond off listKeith
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon May 10 17:26:16 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 23:26:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
Message-ID: <a6ff382f3244046843ad389e1af6e9182824545c@webmail>

Steve-I checked the locations on my original 66 BJ8 35516 and found
"0224" in three places. I did not find a frame number marked next to
the shock tower. Cannot equate that number to anything else on the
car. Its not body or batch, but some of those locations are a Jensen
spot for markings. If someone was to replace the bonnet latch
mounting, they threw out the number. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "BJ8Healeys" 
To: "David Lodge"
Cc: "Austin Healey"
Sent: Monday May 10 2021 8:39:35AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

 David, I don't know for sure, but it's my understanding that the
frames were built by John Thompson Motor Pressings. Frequently this
number has been partially obscured by weld bead. Jensen put their
number on the body plate, as well as another number in three places:
the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator; on
the driver's side (in reference to LHC cars) bonnet flange where the
hinge is bolted; and on the underside of the boot lid where the prop
rod attaches (example photos attached). My guess is that the number
you show was put there by the frame manufacturer. I haven't been able
to connect the number to any other number on the car. 
 BTW: I have been doing a study of the "Jensen numbers" in the three
places cited above. It would be helpful to be able to document as many
of them as possible. So far, I have them for 222 BJ8s. They do have a
relation to the VIN of a car, but a closer correspondence with the
body number. Any BJ8 owners who wants to contribute to the database of
these numbers to help us understand more about them should send me a
photo of what you find on your BJ8, if possible. If not, then just
send the numbers to me. I also need the chassis number and body number
of the car. 
 Thanks! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

	----------------------------------------- From: "David Lodge via
Healeys"
 To: "Austin Healey"
 Cc: "David Lodge"
 Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 11:24:18PM
 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

 Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies? It's at the
right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock
tower.

 A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon May 10 17:37:45 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 23:37:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
In-Reply-To: <a6ff382f3244046843ad389e1af6e9182824545c@webmail>
References: <a6ff382f3244046843ad389e1af6e9182824545c@webmail>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25073DDC3B2028C5AE12AAACD1549@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

I believe that the ?mystery number? was stamped there by the frame manufacturer and do not relate to any other number on the car.
On BJ8, the Jensen number is also on the bottom ledge of the glovebox cover, if you open the glovebox, you can read the number with a mirror.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: gradea1 at charter.net<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: May 10, 2021 6:28 PM
To: 'BJ8Healeys'<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: 'Austin Healey'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; 'David Lodge'<mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

Steve-I checked the locations on my original 66 BJ8 35516 and found "0224" in three places.  I did not find a frame number marked next to the shock tower. Cannot equate that number to anything else on the car. Its not body or batch, but some of those locations are a Jensen spot for markings. If someone was to replace the bonnet latch mounting, they threw out the number. Regards, Hank

-----------------------------------------
From: "BJ8Healeys"
To: "David Lodge"
Cc: "Austin Healey"
Sent: Monday May 10 2021 8:39:35AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

David, I don't know for sure, but it's my understanding that the frames were built by John Thompson Motor Pressings.  Frequently this number has been partially obscured by weld bead.  Jensen put their number on the body plate, as well as another number in three places:  the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator; on the driver's side (in reference to LHC cars) bonnet flange where the hinge is bolted; and on the underside of the boot lid where the prop rod attaches (example photos attached).
My guess is that the number you show was put there by the frame manufacturer.  I haven't been able to connect the number to any other number on the car.

BTW:  I have been doing a study of the "Jensen numbers" in the three places cited above.  It would be helpful to be able to document as many of them as possible.  So far, I have them for 222 BJ8s.  They do have a relation to the VIN of a car, but a closer correspondence with the body number.  Any BJ8 owners who wants to contribute to the database of these numbers to help us understand more about them should send me a photo of what you find on your BJ8, if possible.  If not, then just send the numbers to me.  I also need the chassis number and body number of the car.

Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----------------------------------------
From: "David Lodge via Healeys"
To: "Austin Healey"
Cc: "David Lodge"
Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 11:24:18PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies?  It's at the right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock tower.

A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May 10 14:11:39 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 16:11:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 under dash photos
References: <54E87CE7-DB53-43E9-A838-2719E480544E.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <54E87CE7-DB53-43E9-A838-2719E480544E@aol.com>

Choke bracket

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Sent from my iPhone

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May 10 14:23:59 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 16:23:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fresh air pull and corner by of package tray
References: <F5059C86-6F2E-49AB-B174-7AD0EF3476DA.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F5059C86-6F2E-49AB-B174-7AD0EF3476DA@aol.com>

I thought I had more in my phone but thats all I have. 

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Sent from my iPhone

From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May 10 18:41:07 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 20:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Photo error
References: <12CB19E1-D28B-4C15-B9AB-D3EA7516E943.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <12CB19E1-D28B-4C15-B9AB-D3EA7516E943@aol.com>

Sorry if a couple unrelated photos turned up in my email. My error. Fat thumb on a very small cell phone...
P

Sent from my iPhone

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 10 19:58:49 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 18:58:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001d74609$301a7810$904f6830$@sbcglobal.net>

Tungsten can be polished to a bright finish.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 10:22 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question

and appeared to be made out of (shiny) silver--go figure--whereas tungsten
is a dull metallic color. 

Bob



From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 10 20:44:44 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 19:44:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7AhkaOXi3RLce5RF1_E2bYow8H7W8md+D48MB==DviDA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7AhkaOXi3RLce5RF1_E2bYow8H7W8md+D48MB==DviDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <930f0b1f-0553-f007-166a-65ff302567e9@comcast.net>

Until a couple years ago I was putting 6-8K miles on my BJ8 every year, 
so I probably had more chances for failures than most.
bs


On 5/10/2021 12:47 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> I have a double-header on my 100 that Dave converted to solid state 
> and rebuilt for me--it has performed faultlessly for probably ten 
> years it is indeed interesting that several knowledgeable people have 
> such differing experiences with SU solid state pumps, or for that 
> matter other pieces of equipment, and it is hard to charge off either 
> consistent success or repeated failures to luck of the draw.? In the 
> same vein, notwithstanding the popularity of FACET cubes I have had 
> very little luck with them and on my Weber-carbed race cars I use 
> Carter 4070's which have performed perfectly.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 1:22 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     The late Dave DuBois pursued the same retirement pastime on this
>     side of
>     The Pond. He designed a retrofit using the points to switch a power
>     transistor, with the expectation that relieving the points of most of
>     the current-passing duties would extend their life; he found that
>     doing
>     so caused the points to wear faster, as the current was
>     insufficient to
>     clean the points surfaces. He later designed a solid-state solution
>     using an optical switch; I had him convert a couple pumps for me and
>     although the conversion was very professional--and he bench tested
>     them
>     for 24hrs continuous--I had mixed success with them. My results with
>     SU's SS pumps, either conversions or off-the-shelf has been
>     inconsistent
>     as well. I think Facet avoids this problem by having their pumps run
>     more-or-less continuously. I tried transils and didn't get the
>     expected
>     result; I guess me and SU pumps just don't get along, but like some
>     girlfriends I've had I stick with them anyway.
>
>     Dave also noted, as did I, that the points available at the time were
>     pure crap. They came in unmarked white boxes and appeared to be
>     made out
>     of (shiny) silver--go figure--whereas tungsten is a dull metallic
>     color.
>     Maybe the situation has improved in the last few years, but I haven't
>     bought any for a while.
>
>     Bob
>
>     ps. If the pump is fitted with a capacitor, and the capacitor has '+'
>     and '-' marks it will be polarity-sensitive (hence the marks).
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 10 20:55:36 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 19:55:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <000001d74609$301a7810$904f6830$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <1a170aa2-1ded-62ea-0578-ab75a92229a5@comcast.net>
 <000001d74609$301a7810$904f6830$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <8c273cc9-1fdb-5f09-1276-faa5b9d2922f@comcast.net>

I'll bet tungsten points wouldn't burn and pit in 100 miles.


On 5/10/2021 6:58 PM, John Spaur wrote:
> Tungsten can be polished to a bright finish.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 10:22 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
>
> and appeared to be made out of (shiny) silver--go figure--whereas tungsten
> is a dull metallic color.
>
> Bob
>
>


From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 10 21:06:09 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 20:06:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPP1XvnGoVTfGhMopkM3yagxjP6fJVJqbiym0d5JBRBiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1505298820.156191.1620541923101@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CAKkXjqPP1XvnGoVTfGhMopkM3yagxjP6fJVJqbiym0d5JBRBiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801d74612$97edd1e0$c7c975a0$@sbcglobal.net>

Which wire is connected to the pump body, the positive or negative wire?
 
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: Sunday, May 9, 2021 8:00 PM
To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
 
Here's a photo of my pump with the cover removed.  The pump is an AUF305.  The yellow cylinder says 47n, + or minus 10%, 400V.   So, is this a positive or negative ground pump?
 
On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 11:32 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at upcmail.nl> > wrote:
If you have the mostly used AUF301/AZX1308 with points you should not worry as these are dual polarity. However if you have an electronic version (EN or EP added to the model number, e.g. AZX1308EN = AZX 1308 Electronic Negative earth) you should not reverse polarity as this will damage the electronics.
If you do not know what SU-pump you have remove the Bakelite pump cover. If there is a small metal or grey/yellow cylinder with 47uF printed on it (capacitor) it is dual polarity and you will be OK. 
If there is a green disk with electronic components and no points it is polarity sensitive
If there is a small disk shape component between the feed screw and the small screw for the blades it is a diode and the pump will be polarity sensitive. Pos. earth pumps should have a red tape around the coil body.
If it is a late pump there could be a very small more or less ball shaped item fitted to one of the pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds the points blade which probably is a sort of bidirectional Zener diode or transil. Such a pump should be dual sensitive.
When I rebuild my pumps I replace the original transil or diode with a 18V transil according to my own specs. The transil is fitted to one of the pedestal screws to earth and the screw that holds the points blade. If the pump has a capacitor fitted I fit an extra transil in parallel with the capacitor. So all my rebuild pumps are dual polarity.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon May 10 21:08:53 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 20:08:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?overdrive_problem?=
Message-ID: <20210511030853.62429.qmail@server278.com>

changed a leaking gasket on side of BT7 o/d.  also replaced synthetic oil with 30ND.  now cannot get o/d to engage.  
solenoid worked fine on static check but would not engage o/d while driving.  ordered new solenoid and same situation.  
started out with book instructions, no luck.  tried other positions and will not engage.  if i push a little on right side arm it 
engages immedietely.  again, it was working fine before we changed the gasket on the side plate and replaced o rings on 
both sides of shaft.  one thing i did notice was that o-ring on pax side was flat and replacement was round.  the solenoid 
does not seem to be able to lift the arm while moving, but will when checking it while stopped. any ideas?

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 11 00:05:08 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 14:05:08 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <009101d745b7$bb487a60$31d96f20$@gmail.com>
References: <1493408192.12167.1620661707475@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <009101d745b7$bb487a60$31d96f20$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+pPWRzJZN0rikmKRf7g-v53+C-WLFroaWk-N=krLsP+Q@mail.gmail.com>

The trick with Facet pumps is to not use the square body pumps but to use
the cylindrical Bendix style Facet pump.  It is more expensive but much
quieter and is extraordinarily reliable.  I've put one on my A90 (which
originally used a mechanical pump), it it had performed flawlessly.  I've
mounted the pump on the chassis using facet rubber bobbins and that reduces
the noise to a very acceptable level... just enough to know if the float
bowls are overflowing or not.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=2698&fbclid=IwAR3cGQPAdikczdLWADsJsb1qaT2Hs6xp9DRP4kgfP_-4HmCOsvtNsQKqY54

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 12:16 AM <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Facet pumps, so many years ago I was a member of the MEMA
> Export managers division and had the opportunity to share stories with many
> of its members.  The Export Manager of Bendix told me he had worked for a
> long time with BMC and Donald Healey to replace the SU-Pumps with the Facet
> Pump.  He got the approval to be the new supplier of the Healey cars when a
> few months later the decision to cease production was made.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Tue May 11 00:50:24 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 08:50:24 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <1332865801.23197.1620715824435@mail.ziggo.nl>

The more you use your car with an SU-pump the smaller the chance of failure! It will keep the points clean.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Tue May 11 00:52:23 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 08:52:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Negative ground SU fuel pump question
Message-ID: <2126225147.23263.1620715943048@mail.ziggo.nl>

They can pit in a few miles when the car has been left standing for a considerable while and the points have corroded just not enough to prevent contact.
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Tue May 11 03:02:02 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 10:02:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20210511030853.62429.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210511030853.62429.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLV_ySwCZkUdzL0wzJZndqu4Ovu5YLkh5ywP02Ur-OhQbA@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe there is too much clearance between the bottom of the solenoid
plunger and the 'backstop'. There are two versions of this backstop. A
small rubber bung and an adjustable back screw. If it were rubber, it will
perish and fall away or the adjustment not correct.

Don't leave the plunger out too long. As you say  *'if I push a little on
right side arm it*
*engages** immediately'* means that the high current is still flowing and
if left any length of time will burn out the solenoid.


On Tue, 11 May 2021 at 04:09, healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

> changed a leaking gasket on side of BT7 o/d.  also replaced synthetic oil
> with 30ND.  now cannot get o/d to engage.
> solenoid worked fine on static check but would not engage o/d while
> driving.  ordered new solenoid and same situation.
> started out with book instructions, no luck.  tried other positions and
> will not engage.  if i push a little on right side arm it
> engages immedietely.  again, it was working fine before we changed the
> gasket on the side plate and replaced o rings on
> both sides of shaft.  one thing i did notice was that o-ring on pax side
> was flat and replacement was round.  the solenoid
> does not seem to be able to lift the arm while moving, but will when
> checking it while stopped. any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 11 05:29:08 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 04:29:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLV_ySwCZkUdzL0wzJZndqu4Ovu5YLkh5ywP02Ur-OhQbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210511030853.62429.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAL28cLV_ySwCZkUdzL0wzJZndqu4Ovu5YLkh5ywP02Ur-OhQbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <23337b96-058b-b163-e064-282196d72824@comcast.net>

My gut feeling is the new O-ring(s) are binding enough to prevent the 
solenoid from pulling up the lever (though the solenoid is likely pretty 
strong). Did you adjust the solenoid throw 'by the book?' That is known 
to be a less reliable way to adjust than setting the height of the 
operating valve.

re: "... o-ring on pax side was flat and replacement was round ..."

Are we talking cross-sections?

Bob

On 5/11/2021 2:02 AM, john harper via Healeys wrote:
> Maybe there is too much clearance?between?the bottom of the solenoid 
> plunger and the 'backstop'. There are two versions?of this backstop. A 
> small rubber bung?and an adjustable?back screw. If it were rubber, it 
> will perish?and fall away or the adjustment not correct.
>
> Don't leave the plunger out too long. As you say _/'if I push a little 
> on right side arm it/_
> /_engages_//_immediately_'/ means that the high current is still 
> flowing and if left any length?of time will burn out the solenoid.
>
>
> On Tue, 11 May 2021 at 04:09, healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net 
> <mailto:healeymanjim at hansencc.net>> wrote:
>
>     changed a leaking gasket on side of BT7 o/d.? also replaced
>     synthetic oil with 30ND.? now cannot get o/d to engage.
>     solenoid worked fine on static check but would not engage o/d
>     while driving.? ordered new solenoid and same situation.
>     started out with book instructions, no luck.? tried other
>     positions and will not engage.? if i push a little on right side
>     arm it
>     engages immedietely.? again, it was working fine before we changed
>     the gasket on the side plate and replaced o rings on
>     both sides of shaft.? one thing i did notice was that o-ring on
>     pax side was flat and replacement was round.? the solenoid
>     does not seem to be able to lift the arm while moving, but will
>     when checking it while stopped. any ideas?
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue May 11 07:41:27 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 09:41:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
References: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$@verizon.net>



As info, I just put up 8 articles on my site. That takes my backlog down to
sixteen. I have been made aware of some broken links. I will try to get them
fixed by the end of the month.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue May 11 09:12:08 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 08:12:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
In-Reply-To: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$@verizon.net>
References: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-D-2p-k2m4fSYz2mPDy4Qf6zZ_XCQQ5QWSRW9eb83YYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks John

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, May 11, 2021, 6:42 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> *As info, I just put up 8 articles on my site. That takes my backlog down
> to sixteen. I have been made aware of some broken links. I will try to get
> them fixed by the end of the month.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Tue May 11 10:46:33 2021
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 12:46:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
In-Reply-To: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$@verizon.net>
References: <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <003a01d7466b$581364f0$083a2ed0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdj4unhH+SWFp2v10PbKBzyZ94-vFTfBUnrf0njosEsYxg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for all your efforts. Your website is invaluable.
Elton

On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 9:42 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> *As info, I just put up 8 articles on my site. That takes my backlog down
> to sixteen. I have been made aware of some broken links. I will try to get
> them fixed by the end of the month.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue May 11 13:00:19 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 19:00:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
Message-ID: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>

Nathan, I'm a little bit late with my response, so I'll just direct it
to you.My two cents' worth: 

	When I and my traveling companions were returning from Conclave 2008
in San Diego and we got to Missouri, we discovered that the highest
octane available there was 91. After filling up with that, both BJ8s
missed and knocked and chugged until we got into Tennessee and
refilled with 93 octane. 

	Recently, a BJ8 owner called me to say he was in the area (300 miles
from home) and his engine had begun to "click" under acceleration. He
thought it was a timing problem and wanted me to check that. He
mentioned that he had fueled up with non-ethanol. Around here, some
stations advertise "non-ethanol" but they neglect to say the octane
was dropped from 93 (with ethanol) to 91 (without). I suggested that
he forget about non-ethanol and go with 93. After that, during his
return home, he had no more "clicking" problems. 

	Ethanol-laced gas has its own issues (as you might remember from my
Black Hills narrative, I had some aggravating stumbling and missing as
I left home, due to the bad ethanol that had been in the tank too
long), especially if the car isn't used much; but as long as I stick
with 93 octane, at least the engine runs as it should.

	Cheers!
Steve

	----------------------------------------- From: "N.S. Bennett"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 2:39:24PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It
was a good read. 
 Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before,
what's the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?

 I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has
once again made me question my practice. 
 Interested in the list's thoughts... 
 Cheers! Nathan '66 BJ8 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue May 11 13:13:30 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 19:13:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
Message-ID: <80ab6e579b118020bdca1d2e74505057583f633f@webmail>

Well, I screwed that one up, didn't I? Having to read and send email
directly from my ISP server, which is a real pain!
BJ8Healeys

	-----------------------------------------From: "BJ8Healeys" 
To: "N.S. Bennett"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday May 11 2021 3:01:33PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

 Nathan, I'm a little bit late with my response, so I'll just direct
it to you.  My two cents' worth: 

	  When I and my traveling companions were returning from Conclave
2008 in San Diego and we got to Missouri, we discovered that the
highest octane available there was 91. After filling up with that,
both BJ8s missed and knocked and chugged until we got into Tennessee
and refilled with 93 octane. 

	  Recently, a BJ8 owner called me to say he was in the area (300
miles from home) and his engine had begun to "click" under
acceleration. He thought it was a timing problem and wanted me to
check that. He mentioned that he had fueled up with non-ethanol.
Around here, some stations advertise "non-ethanol" but they neglect to
say the octane was dropped from 93 (with ethanol) to 91 (without). I
suggested that he forget about non-ethanol and go with 93. After that,
during his return home, he had no more "clicking" problems. 

	  Ethanol-laced gas has its own issues (as you might remember from my
Black Hills narrative, I had some aggravating stumbling and missing as
I left home, due to the bad ethanol that had been in the tank too
long), especially if the car isn't used much; but as long as I stick
with 93 octane, at least the engine runs as it should. 

	  Cheers!
 Steve 

	----------------------------------------- From: "N.S. Bennett"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 2:39:24PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It
was a good read. 
 Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before,
what's the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?

 I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has
once again made me question my practice. 
 Interested in the list's thoughts... 
 Cheers! Nathan '66 BJ8 

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue May 11 13:55:09 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 13:55:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>
References: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>
Message-ID: <6b3ea1dd-d377-9121-ac98-801ae5b53698@porterscustom.com>

...which begs the question of how many owners run their engines with too 
much ignition advance. Do you know and when was the last time the 
distributor was lubed? Asking for a friend...? Note: Most Lucas 
distributors start advancing at 750 RPM, so if the initial is not set 
there or is above your total may exceed the allowable ... dp

On 5/11/2021 1:00 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Nathan, I'm a little bit late with my response, so I'll just direct it 
> to you.
> My two cents' worth:
>
> When I and my traveling companions were returning from Conclave 2008 
> in San Diego and we got to Missouri, we discovered that the highest 
> octane available there was 91.? After filling up with that, both BJ8s 
> missed and knocked and chugged until we got into Tennessee and 
> refilled with 93 octane.
>
> Recently, a BJ8 owner called me to say he was in the area (300 miles 
> from home) and his engine had begun to "click" under acceleration.? He 
> thought it was a timing problem and wanted me to check that.? He 
> mentioned that he had fueled up with non-ethanol. Around here, some 
> stations advertise "non-ethanol" but they neglect to say the octane 
> was dropped from 93 (with ethanol) to 91 (without).? I suggested that 
> he forget about non-ethanol and go with 93. After that, during his 
> return home, he had no more "clicking" problems.
>
> Ethanol-laced gas has its own issues (as you might remember from my 
> Black Hills narrative, I had some aggravating stumbling and missing as 
> I left home, due to the bad ethanol that had been in the tank too 
> long), especially if the car isn't used much; but as long as I stick 
> with 93 octane, at least the engine runs as it should.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "N.S. Bennett"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 2:39:24PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>
> Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It 
> was a good read.
>
> Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before, what's 
> the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?
>
> I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has 
> once again made me question my practice.
>
> Interested in the list's thoughts...
>
> Cheers!
> Nathan
> '66 BJ8
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue May 11 14:17:25 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 16:17:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock--another solution
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6qZXJt3iERWG7OnasHCpUqwM5xMSxzVsWSv0858U+-JQ@mail.gmail.com>

So much attention seems to be devoted to issues of vapor lock/heat soaking,
I thought I would post an absolutely foolproof--if a bit radical-- solution
to this pervasive problem.

The car in question is NOT my 1954 100 Le Mans but rather my first race
car--a 1622 MGA-powered Elva Courier equipped with two HS6 SU's.  On hot
days it was often impossible to get the car to restart once the engine got
hot--which often happens when, for example, there were delays on the
starting grid and it became necessary to shut down due to threatened
overheating OR during restarts after an all-in black flag etc.

In such situations when the engine was "heat soaked" no amount of cranking
would work until the engine cooled down and on a few occasions I actually
missed getting off the grid--quite frustrating to sit there watching the
race proceed without me.

The solution I came up with was to provide a simple positive way of getting
relatively cool air into the combustion chamber.  The intake manifold had a
balance tube in which there was a threaded. plugged port.  I inserted a
brass 90 degree ell into the port and ran a fuel-proof hose (1/2" ID) back
through the firewall to a brass two-way ball valve with a lever handle
which I mounted through the dashboard near the steering wheel so that the
handle was easily accessed simply by reaching under the dash.

When it came time to start/restart a hot engine I would crack the valve
open with one hand and push the start button with the other.  Invariably,
despite high ambient or engine temps the car would fire off immediately and
I would close the valve immediately as it almost seemed like the car had
received a straight injection of starting ether and my intention was to
replace the manual valve with a spring-loaded version that would
immediately close when released.

I'll admit this might be an extreme solution but if one lives in a very hot
high temp/humidity climate and is continually plagued by what we call vapor
lock or heat soaking (luckily not a problem from which my 100 suffers) it
is worth exploring.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 11 19:27:11 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 09:27:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>
References: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+6iUV_JhqvB0_44YigF4VBdzgT67yG-79tK_FGS6U6FA@mail.gmail.com>

Just goes to show if you are driving your car regularly (like I like to do)
the trick is to not rebuild with pistons that give you too much
compression.  In fact for the BJ8 it's good to bring compression down half
a point, although in HK the fuel is good enough for standard compression.

On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 3:01 AM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Nathan, I'm a little bit late with my response, so I'll just direct it to
> you.
> My two cents' worth:
>
> When I and my traveling companions were returning from Conclave 2008 in
> San Diego and we got to Missouri, we discovered that the highest octane
> available there was 91.  After filling up with that, both BJ8s missed and
> knocked and chugged until we got into Tennessee and refilled with 93 octane.
>
> Recently, a BJ8 owner called me to say he was in the area (300 miles from
> home) and his engine had begun to "click" under acceleration.  He thought
> it was a timing problem and wanted me to check that.  He mentioned that he
> had fueled up with non-ethanol.  Around here, some stations advertise
> "non-ethanol" but they neglect to say the octane was dropped from 93 (with
> ethanol) to 91 (without).  I suggested that he forget about non-ethanol and
> go with 93.  After that, during his return home, he had no more "clicking"
> problems.
>
> Ethanol-laced gas has its own issues (as you might remember from my Black
> Hills narrative, I had some aggravating stumbling and missing as I left
> home, due to the bad ethanol that had been in the tank too long),
> especially if the car isn't used much; but as long as I stick with 93
> octane, at least the engine runs as it should.
>
> Cheers!
> Steve
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "N.S. Bennett"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 2:39:24PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>
> Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It was a
> good read.
>
> Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before, what's the
> general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?
>
> I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has once
> again made me question my practice.
>
> Interested in the list's thoughts...
>
> Cheers!
> Nathan
> '66 BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 11 21:12:41 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 20:12:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
In-Reply-To: <6b3ea1dd-d377-9121-ac98-801ae5b53698@porterscustom.com>
References: <4fad65630822d9e1656c85732d00d2ebdd35bc16@webmail>
 <6b3ea1dd-d377-9121-ac98-801ae5b53698@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <bb89f5ae-40f3-e110-4735-990b3f4d6a83@comcast.net>

... and the vacuum advance is supposed to be disconnected and the port 
on the carb plugged though, in practice I haven't seen it make much 
difference.

FWIW, my BJ8 has a fresh rebuilt to stock specs and has 170psi +/- on 
all 6 and doesn't ping on 91-octane gasahol (pretty much all you can get 
in California).

bs

On 5/11/2021 12:55 PM, David P via Healeys wrote:
>
> ...which begs the question of how many owners run their engines with 
> too much ignition advance. Do you know and when was the last time the 
> distributor was lubed? Asking for a friend... Note: Most Lucas 
> distributors start advancing at 750 RPM, so if the initial is not set 
> there or is above your total may exceed the allowable ... dp
>
> On 5/11/2021 1:00 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:
>> Nathan, I'm a little bit late with my response, so I'll just direct 
>> it to you.
>> My two cents' worth:
>>
>> When I and my traveling companions were returning from Conclave 2008 
>> in San Diego and we got to Missouri, we discovered that the highest 
>> octane available there was 91.? After filling up with that, both BJ8s 
>> missed and knocked and chugged until we got into Tennessee and 
>> refilled with 93 octane.
>>
>> Recently, a BJ8 owner called me to say he was in the area (300 miles 
>> from home) and his engine had begun to "click" under acceleration.? 
>> He thought it was a timing problem and wanted me to check that.? He 
>> mentioned that he had fueled up with non-ethanol.? Around here, some 
>> stations advertise "non-ethanol" but they neglect to say the octane 
>> was dropped from 93 (with ethanol) to 91 (without). I suggested that 
>> he forget about non-ethanol and go with 93.? After that, during his 
>> return home, he had no more "clicking" problems.
>>
>> Ethanol-laced gas has its own issues (as you might remember from my 
>> Black Hills narrative, I had some aggravating stumbling and missing 
>> as I left home, due to the bad ethanol that had been in the tank too 
>> long), especially if the car isn't used much; but as long as I stick 
>> with 93 octane, at least the engine runs as it should.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>>
>> From: "N.S. Bennett"
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Cc:
>> Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 2:39:24PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas
>>
>> Thanks for the link to the MV article on ethanol and vapor lock. It 
>> was a good read.
>>
>> Although I'm certain this has been debated (many times) before, 
>> what's the general consensus on octane rating when refueling our cars?
>>
>> I've always used the highest.i can get. But reading that article has 
>> once again made me question my practice.
>>
>> Interested in the list's thoughts...
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Nathan
>> '66 BJ8
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue May 11 22:11:55 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 21:11:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?vapor_lock_gas?=
Message-ID: <20210512041155.49823.qmail@server278.com>

i live whene in the summer people go to hell to cool off and i just do not seem to have vapor lock problems on my bj8.  i did 
have some on the bn6.  i burn sam's club premium gas and do not have any special devices to alleviate the problem.  i am 
careful when it has sat for about ten minutes or so after driving somewhere to make sure fresh gas has been pumped up 
from the tank before i do any heavy accelerating.  there are times when it is about 115F outside and i pull in the garage and 
shut down i can hear the ethanol(i assume it is) bubbling in the float bowls.  took off the top of bowl onetime and saw the 
bubbles coming up.  my daughter's 66 Mustang 289 with four barrel does have vapor lock problems in the summer making 
it hard to start after heating up.


From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed May 12 02:10:36 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 20:10:36 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Good quality petrol
Message-ID: <000001d74706$4bb75180$e325f480$@xtra.co.nz>

 

On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 5:11 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

"... $2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol ..."

Before us Yankees get all excited, I believe this is per the 'research' method. In the 'States we use the average of the research and motor methods, and there's generally a 7-8 octane point spread between the two, so this would be equivalent to 93-94-octane here.

"... NO ethanol content ..."

Now, THIS gets me excited! I presume NZ doesn't have corn mega-agribusiness shoving their product into our cars.  

Nope.  Not a whisper from ANY farming lobby groups down here.  We don?t like ethanol in our gas.  I don?t think some of us Kiwis realise just how lucky we are.  

When I feel indulgent, I buy AvGas from one of the flight companies at our local Ardmore aerodrome.  The Healeys just LOVE it.  They don?t very often get to enjoy grey tail pipes.  ?

Bob



On 5/8/2021 4:48 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:

Gentlemen, to put things into perspective,

Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content from selected Mobil, and some BP and Caltex stations around the country. 

At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76 per litre ? or $6.66 per US gallon.  That is exactly NZ$8.00 per Imperial gallon.

I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that.

The further south we got, the worse the gas got.  It seems to be more prevalent in the South Island.

The car LOVES being back home in Auckland.

 

In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund roading and transport projects.   At least, that?s where our government tell us it?s going.

Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally hundreds of thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads!

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE  <mailto:ynotink at msn.com> <ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
To: Bluehealey  <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com> <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: Bob Spidell  <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter  <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas

 

I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in the last three months. Funny how that works.

 

Bill Lawrence

 

 

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed May 12 03:28:27 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 05:28:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AHCNE Zoom Tech Conference
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeHE_CZwLaeKabPn0Y2vZNC8xMOmEKS_GADB5UkYXtHCw@mail.gmail.com>

The Austin-Healey Club of New England holds a monthly Tech Conference over
Zoom where members can get answers to their technical questions.  Here's
our latest:  Austin-Healey Club of New England May Zoom Tech Conference
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT_cI5Zilz8

Rick Neville
President, AHCNE

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed May 12 09:36:33 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 11:36:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AHCNE Zoom Tech Conference
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeHE_CZwLaeKabPn0Y2vZNC8xMOmEKS_GADB5UkYXtHCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZeHE_CZwLaeKabPn0Y2vZNC8xMOmEKS_GADB5UkYXtHCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcY2EbGUJ51N9wiXSSXA2w0AzSOY-KEHXkwhZPYiKg3_g@mail.gmail.com>

Posting the correct URL  https://youtu.be/fT_cI5Zilz8

Rick Neville
President, AHCNE

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On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 5:28 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> The Austin-Healey Club of New England holds a monthly Tech Conference over
> Zoom where members can get answers to their technical questions.  Here's
> our latest:  Austin-Healey Club of New England May Zoom Tech Conference
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT_cI5Zilz8
>
> Rick Neville
> President, AHCNE
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
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>
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed May 12 15:52:43 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 15:52:43 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Body panels
Message-ID: <e9917183-08a0-f550-acf6-21dc0ce22f12@porterscustom.com>

Hey all,

 ?I'm in need of a good used front shroud for a late BJ8 and a front 
right fender as well. Any leads appreciated.? dave in Albuquerque.. and 
a grille too..

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed May 12 15:59:33 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 15:59:33 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Body panels
In-Reply-To: <e9917183-08a0-f550-acf6-21dc0ce22f12@porterscustom.com>
References: <e9917183-08a0-f550-acf6-21dc0ce22f12@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <2358a884-f4d5-4b02-343e-58c87782cfce@porterscustom.com>


On 5/12/2021 3:52 PM, David P via Healeys wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> ?I'm in need of a good used front shroud for a late BJ8 and a front 
> right fender as well. Any leads appreciated.? dave in Albuquerque.. 
> and a grille too..
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed May 12 18:54:45 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 20:54:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Body panels
In-Reply-To: <2358a884-f4d5-4b02-343e-58c87782cfce@porterscustom.com>
References: <e9917183-08a0-f550-acf6-21dc0ce22f12@porterscustom.com>
 <2358a884-f4d5-4b02-343e-58c87782cfce@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwFwCUwn-=HRvi35ekde--E3=_eDN=cR=O=_C-jTZxScNw@mail.gmail.com>

David, I have one I'm willing to sell but it does need work. Let me know if
you are interested. See photo attached.

On Wed, May 12, 2021, 6:02 PM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

>
> On 5/12/2021 3:52 PM, David P via Healeys wrote:
> > Hey all,
> >
> >  I'm in need of a good used front shroud for a late BJ8 and a front
> > right fender as well. Any leads appreciated.  dave in Albuquerque..
> > and a grille too..
> >
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Wed May 12 18:57:24 2021
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 20:57:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thread direction to adjust toe-in BJ8
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJw-nPZc3tmDWAHztvFCh0zLEpPakvTWFkjkr4BvwP-Kw@mail.gmail.com>

I would like to check my toe-in.  After pouring thru the list archives and
BCF, I know one side of the cross rod is left hand thread and other is
right hand thread, but I'm not sure which is which.

The Moss catalog shows the left hand thread nut on the right side of the
image...  Is that looking at the car from the front or from the driver's
point of view?

Anyone know which way to turn the locking nuts?

thanks,

Tom
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed May 12 19:38:58 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 21:38:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] thread direction to adjust toe-in BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJw-nPZc3tmDWAHztvFCh0zLEpPakvTWFkjkr4BvwP-Kw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PJw-nPZc3tmDWAHztvFCh0zLEpPakvTWFkjkr4BvwP-Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+pFL0fRFSa_193ZORxqoOL5nrZWBTQyxaxDpQzL+HatQ@mail.gmail.com>

Unfortunately Tom the cross rod can be installed with the LHT at either end.
You need to clean and examine the thread to determine which way to turn the
rod.

M

On Wed., May 12, 2021, 9:05 p.m. Tom, <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would like to check my toe-in.  After pouring thru the list archives and
> BCF, I know one side of the cross rod is left hand thread and other is
> right hand thread, but I'm not sure which is which.
>
> The Moss catalog shows the left hand thread nut on the right side of the
> image...  Is that looking at the car from the front or from the driver's
> point of view?
>
> Anyone know which way to turn the locking nuts?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed May 12 22:05:52 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2021 21:05:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave or bust
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-KFsSxLvWHSVHo8E9xdQqSJ2AH5zYHCvUVAeOzZSYPKA@mail.gmail.com>

Hope to see some of you at Conclave. I'm leaving tomorrow and plan to drive
around 5 hours of road time, more if the car is behaving and I'm up to it.
Plan to be in Big Bear in the early afternoon on Sunday.
Cheers and safe travels
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu May 13 09:32:53 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 11:32:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Excellent 100 Restoration Video
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcYA44hBEypSBXpmmVA+P52h-sNBibgJO7Zertet=2Q6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Check out Austin-Healey Club of New England member Roy Crane's impressive
restoration of his BN1 here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYOsLr53zeE as
well as the other videos on our YouTube Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHnijqOvqwEtJulKKqkIiwQ  Be sure to
subscribe for upcoming videos.

Rick Neville
President, AHCNE

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From manifold at telus.net  Thu May 13 09:51:03 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 08:51:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ARP Cylinder Head Studs
Message-ID: <C6185B56-648D-4C4E-8B74-9709700513CB@hxcore.ol>

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From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Thu May 13 11:14:26 2021
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 17:14:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] conclave or bust
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-KFsSxLvWHSVHo8E9xdQqSJ2AH5zYHCvUVAeOzZSYPKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-KFsSxLvWHSVHo8E9xdQqSJ2AH5zYHCvUVAeOzZSYPKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR04MB7583F6C2CB6E3B6DB351BAFD90519@SJ0PR04MB7583.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

See you there!

Henry Morrison, Salt Lake City


Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2021 10:05 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] conclave or bust

Hope to see some of you at Conclave. I'm leaving tomorrow and plan to drive around 5 hours of road time, more if the car is behaving and I'm up to it. Plan to be in Big Bear in the early afternoon on Sunday.
Cheers and safe travels
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>    Virus-free. www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Thu May 13 13:44:27 2021
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 15:44:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ARP Cylinder Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <C6185B56-648D-4C4E-8B74-9709700513CB@hxcore.ol>
References: <C6185B56-648D-4C4E-8B74-9709700513CB@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <b2a49884-77fb-985f-ef65-ba3a43da86b5@htcnet.org>

My DW studs have allen sockets.



On 5/13/2021 11:51 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote:
>
> Has anyone has experience good or otherwise with ARP Cylinder Head 
> Studs? Moss sells a kit 328-876 but the studs can be purchased from 
> others. The only real visible difference is the ARP studs have 1? of 
> thread at the top and the bottom and the OEM stud has 5/8? at the 
> bottom and 7/8? at the top.
>
> Dennis Welch has a different type of high strength head stud, not ARP, 
> and I am wondering if there is a reason. Some of my existing studs 
> have signs or corrosion so I will replace them and it doesn?t cost 
> much more to go with a better quality head stud.
>
> Feedback and comments appreciated.
>
> Harold
>
>
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu May 13 14:12:43 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 20:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Good quality petrol
In-Reply-To: <000001d74706$4bb75180$e325f480$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000001d74706$4bb75180$e325f480$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143A382E2B2E3706AB9E610A5519@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

All those years indoctrinating is that gasoline and alcohol don?t mix, and now look at is...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mark Donaldson via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2021 8:10 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Good quality petrol




On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 5:11 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:

"... $2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol ..."

Before us Yankees get all excited, I believe this is per the 'research' method. In the 'States we use the average of the research and motor methods, and there's generally a 7-8 octane point spread between the two, so this would be equivalent to 93-94-octane here.

"... NO ethanol content ..."

Now, THIS gets me excited! I presume NZ doesn't have corn mega-agribusiness shoving their product into our cars.

Nope.  Not a whisper from ANY farming lobby groups down here.  We don?t like ethanol in our gas.  I don?t think some of us Kiwis realise just how lucky we are.

When I feel indulgent, I buy AvGas from one of the flight companies at our local Ardmore aerodrome.  The Healeys just LOVE it.  They don?t very often get to enjoy grey tail pipes.  ??

Bob


On 5/8/2021 4:48 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:

Gentlemen, to put things into perspective,

Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content from selected Mobil, and some BP and Caltex stations around the country.

At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76 per litre ? or $6.66 per US gallon.  That is exactly NZ$8.00 per Imperial gallon.

I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that.

The further south we got, the worse the gas got.  It seems to be more prevalent in the South Island.

The car LOVES being back home in Auckland.



In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund roading and transport projects.   At least, that?s where our government tell us it?s going.

Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally hundreds of thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads!



Mark

Ardmore, NZ



From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com><mailto:ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com><mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net><mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com><mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas



I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy working on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70 cents in the last three months. Funny how that works.



Bill Lawrence





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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu May 13 15:15:28 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 21:15:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Good quality petrol
Message-ID: <4d4083a2939083c3f45ea2babe79bcd601e84615@webmail>

Here is a chart I made up to discuss the issue...I only use
"clear"(non-ethanol) in all Healeys which here in Oregon is $4.25/gal
(US)
Cheers!, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
via Healeys" 
To: "Mark Donaldson via Healeys", "Bob Spidell", "Mark Donaldson"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday May 13 2021 1:13:50PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Good quality petrol

 All those years indoctrinating is that gasoline and alcohol don?t
mix, and now look at is... 
-------------------------
FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Mark Donaldson via Healeys 
SENT: Wednesday, May 12, 2021 8:10 AM
TO: 'Bob Spidell' 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Good quality petrol      

	On Sat, May 8, 2021 at 5:11 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:    

	"... $2.41 per litre for premium 98 octane petrol .."

 Before us Yankees get all excited, I believe this is per the
'research' method. In the 'States we use the average of the research
and motor methods, and there's generally a 7-8 octane point spread
between the two, so this would be equivalent to 93-94-octane here.

 "... NO ethanol content ..."

 Now, THIS gets me excited! I presume NZ doesn't have corn
mega-agribusiness shoving their product into our cars.  

	 Nope. Not a whisper from ANY farming lobby groups down here. We
don?t like ethanol in our gas. I don?t think some of us Kiwis
realise just how lucky we are.  

	 When I feel indulgent, I buy AvGas from one of the flight companies
at our local Ardmore aerodrome. The Healeys just LOVE it. They don?t
very often get to enjoy grey tail pipes.  ?

 Bob

	On 5/8/2021 4:48 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:    

	Gentlemen, to put things into perspective, 

	Way down here in New Zealand we are presently paying NZ$2.41 per
litre for premium 98 octane petrol guaranteed with NO ethanol content
from selected MOBIL, and some BP and CALTEX stations around the
country. 

	At the current USD v NZD exchange rate of 73 cents, that is US$1.76
per litre ? or $6.66 per US GALLON. That is exactly NZ$8.00 per
IMPERIAL GALLON. 

	I got 27.5 mpg from our tri-carb on a 2,278 mile trip to our National
Rally in the South island in March. I?m very pleased with that. 

	The further south we got, the worse the gas got. It seems to be more
prevalent in the South Island. 

	The car LOVES being back home in Auckland. 

	In the Auckland region we pay an extra 10 cents plus tax to fund
roading and transport projects. At least, that?s where our
government tell us it?s going. 

	Frankly, I think a lot of that money is funding the literally
hundreds of thousands of orange road cones clogging up our roads! 

	Mark 

	Ardmore, NZ 

	FROM: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE 
SENT: Saturday, 8 May 2021 6:07 a.m.
TO: Bluehealey 
CC: Bob Spidell ; Michael Salter ; healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Vapor lock gas   

	I feel your pain... But don?t worry, our politicians are busy
working on ways to close that gap. Unleaded regular is up 60 to 70
cents in the last three months. Funny how that works.   

	Bill Lawrence  

	 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu May 13 16:38:02 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 18:38:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] ARP Cylinder Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <b2a49884-77fb-985f-ef65-ba3a43da86b5@htcnet.org>
References: <C6185B56-648D-4C4E-8B74-9709700513CB@hxcore.ol>
 <b2a49884-77fb-985f-ef65-ba3a43da86b5@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+-L871fc992NNR3Bfm0dzcZw8yspDFkDGQp6A7z=_ufw@mail.gmail.com>

I've never had any sort of problem with the originals.
Just sayin'.

On Thu., May 13, 2021, 3:47 p.m. John Vrugtman, <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
wrote:

> My DW studs have allen sockets.
>
>
>
> On 5/13/2021 11:51 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote:
>
> Has anyone has experience good or otherwise with ARP Cylinder Head Studs?
> Moss sells a kit 328-876 but the studs can be purchased from others. The
> only real visible difference is the ARP studs have 1? of thread at the top
> and the bottom and the OEM stud has 5/8? at the bottom and 7/8? at the top.
>
>
>
> Dennis Welch has a different type of high strength head stud, not ARP, and
> I am wondering if there is a reason. Some of my existing studs have signs
> or corrosion so I will replace them and it doesn?t cost much more to go
> with a better quality head stud.
>
>
>
> Feedback and comments appreciated.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu May 13 16:41:39 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 22:41:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881176A7C8E650B70951307D4519@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

On the 100 gearbox extension panel (forward gearbox tunnel vertical panel) originally, was there a piece of tar paper glued to the gearbox side? I found tar paper that is very similar to the floor material glued to the underside (non carpet side). I plan to insulate the car well with better material, just was wondering if this was an original piece of tar paper.
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 13 16:59:27 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 15:59:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881176A7C8E650B70951307D4519@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881176A7C8E650B70951307D4519@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <B33E8B9124CA45F380612780B0CB245D@DavidNockHP>

Yes originally there was Tap Paper with a rubber air deflector. 

When we are doing a interior we will cover the trans tunnel and the vertical panel with Dynamat and then on the vertical panel we glue the tap paper in place to make it look correct. Then install the rubber air deflector to stop the hot air from flowing over the top of the transmission.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: S and T Miller via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 3:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel

On the 100 gearbox extension panel (forward gearbox tunnel vertical panel) originally, was there a piece of tar paper glued to the gearbox side? I found tar paper that is very similar to the floor material glued to the underside (non carpet side). I plan to insulate the car well with better material, just was wondering if this was an original piece of tar paper. 
TIA, Shawn 

The Millers
 
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Thu May 13 20:54:59 2021
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 22:54:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>

Fellow Listers,
Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what you
think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for lifting a
Healey?
Thanks in advance,
Elton
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 13 21:17:47 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 20:17:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cfb9c439-7f12-5df9-e155-9b11df7cbb14@comcast.net>

I have a 5000# model (Costco had them on sale for $1,000 a while back). 
They just fit under a Healey (this is under my BN2). You gotta be 
careful to get the CG right, I had the BN2 up on mine and I'd placed the 
car too far to the rear, when I removed one of the front wheels the car 
started to tip to the rear (wheel went back on about as quick as you can 
do it).

Bob

On 5/13/2021 7:54 PM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what 
> you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for 
> lifting a Healey?
> Thanks in advance,
> Elton
>

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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Thu May 13 22:09:25 2021
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 21:09:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw_yP6oQzd_KXfCpdMMPOhOu8RSvsh0yXO4ugQ9nRa0vVA@mail.gmail.com>

I have the 3500 and it works well with my 1959 Healey and my 2017 Corvette.

Mark Fawcett

On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 8:02 PM Elton S via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Fellow Listers,
> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what you
> think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for lifting a
> Healey?
> Thanks in advance,
> Elton
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri May 14 01:28:32 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 15:28:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAMoKZw_yP6oQzd_KXfCpdMMPOhOu8RSvsh0yXO4ugQ9nRa0vVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMoKZw_yP6oQzd_KXfCpdMMPOhOu8RSvsh0yXO4ugQ9nRa0vVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+O3NEfjbAot1iV4BEqQnC0n=XS=VoU=A=f9KpG+z-s1g@mail.gmail.com>

My only complaint is the quickjack folks had some pretty inappropriate &
unpleasant things to say about EZ Car Lift, which is extremely well built
and engineered & made in the USA (which QJ isn't).

EZ Car Lift is a bit more expensive, but I think has better accessibility &
safety, but slower lifting due to the worm gear system.  The thing with
Quick Jack is you have to make sure you get both sides & spacing lined up
carefully, but it will be lighter to move around.

EZ Car lift comes with alot of great options, I particularly like the
castor wheel option which lets you move the car around the garage if
needed... works really well.

On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 12:10 PM Mark Fawcett <m.fawcett at cox.net> wrote:

> I have the 3500 and it works well with my 1959 Healey and my 2017 Corvette.
>
> Mark Fawcett
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021 at 8:02 PM Elton S via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Fellow Listers,
>> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what you
>> think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for lifting a
>> Healey?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Elton
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Fri May 14 01:37:14 2021
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 09:37:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <058035252wen$yn97vrgc$1wka9px2$@posic.co.kr>

Healeys??????https://j.mp/3blMhyT??????????Mike
mike brooks
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri May 14 05:20:54 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 11:20:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
In-Reply-To: <B33E8B9124CA45F380612780B0CB245D@DavidNockHP>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881176A7C8E650B70951307D4519@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <B33E8B9124CA45F380612780B0CB245D@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB488135DE0264ACE115685A2FD4509@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you David. I think I will install the new tar paper, as you said you do, over the insulation. That will make for a nice touch. Also I'll save the old piece as, "hey this is the original tar paper piece from the car". It's actually in good shape for its age.
Thanks again. Shawn


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: David Nock BCS <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 6:59 PM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel

Yes originally there was Tap Paper with a rubber air deflector.

When we are doing a interior we will cover the trans tunnel and the vertical panel with Dynamat and then on the vertical panel we glue the tap paper in place to make it look correct. Then install the rubber air deflector to stop the hot air from flowing over the top of the transmission.

[104_0773]

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org

From: S and T Miller via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 3:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel

On the 100 gearbox extension panel (forward gearbox tunnel vertical panel) originally, was there a piece of tar paper glued to the gearbox side? I found tar paper that is very similar to the floor material glued to the underside (non carpet side). I plan to insulate the car well with better material, just was wondering if this was an original piece of tar paper.
TIA, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

________________________________
_______________________________________________
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 08:12:43 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 07:12:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave or bust
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-KFsSxLvWHSVHo8E9xdQqSJ2AH5zYHCvUVAeOzZSYPKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-KFsSxLvWHSVHo8E9xdQqSJ2AH5zYHCvUVAeOzZSYPKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOEW2pCs5FpH6K=DR03n2fGu9X0C8Jf+a=WF4PBjMEx+A@mail.gmail.com>

I'm heading out myself in a few hours. Which translates to about noon
today.  See you in Big Bear!

On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 9:06 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hope to see some of you at Conclave. I'm leaving tomorrow and plan to
> drive around 5 hours of road time, more if the car is behaving and I'm up
> to it. Plan to be in Big Bear in the early afternoon on Sunday.
> Cheers and safe travels
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
> <#m_1847903102520828738_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 08:47:10 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 07:47:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New fun
Message-ID: <CABXhz88tm+aYPPsTXAyfOOtLy7eyx5S70BqkLTAtfbmrJwPrOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Took my car to my mechanic to sort out gremlins and install fresh air tubed.
Car runs great,  cool air to feet is wonderful.
My idle problem is worse, but did not show up for him.
I'm heading to conclave. Engine just sings until I get to a stop. It just
dies. After I park for a bio break, it will restart, but acts like it's a
bad condenser, kinda stutters, but keeps going and then settles in and runs
great.
Any ideas? Could sticky needle and seat be the issue? I do smell some fuel
smells, just for a very short time.
Thanks all
Anyone in Reno who can help? I will hopefully be there in the early
afternoon today.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri May 14 08:54:40 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 15:54:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Dimensions
Message-ID: <000501d748d1$1240f290$36c2d7b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Still looking, albeit in a fairly desultory fashion, for a lift. I saw the
recent correspondence regarding the QuickJack system and that the opinions
were fairly positive.

Assuming that you have a 3000, where do you put the 4 jacking points or can
you go straight on below the chassis? 

I'm told that one should not lift by the sills, which makes sense and that a
"good" point is at the junction of the outriggers to the chassis.

The QuickJack is fairly pricey over here, for what it is, and I'm looking at
other systems. I'd get a 2-poster like a shot but am have very little
overhead clearance. So, scissors are a good option. With that in mind, can
anyone tell me what the distance is between A & B per the attached. It is
supposed to show the distance between the mid-point of the fore and aft
outriggers.

If only the chassis was not so narrow!

Simon

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 14 09:06:06 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 08:06:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB488135DE0264ACE115685A2FD4509@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB488135DE0264ACE115685A2FD4509@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3F80CB0E-5513-4522-96F0-FC63E66D4448@sbcglobal.net>

Put the dynamite on both sides 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 14, 2021, at 4:22 AM, S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thank you David. I think I will install the new tar paper, as you said you do, over the insulation. That will make for a nice touch. Also I'll save the old piece as, "hey this is the original tar paper piece from the car". It's actually in good shape for its age. 
> Thanks again. Shawn
> 
> 
> The Millers
>  
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
> From: David Nock BCS <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 6:59 PM
> To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
>  
> Yes originally there was Tap Paper with a rubber air deflector.
>  
> When we are doing a interior we will cover the trans tunnel and the vertical panel with Dynamat and then on the vertical panel we glue the tap paper in place to make it look correct. Then install the rubber air deflector to stop the hot air from flowing over the top of the transmission.
>  
> <104_0773[2].jpg>
>  
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> 
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>  
> From: S and T Miller via Healeys
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 3:41 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
>  
> On the 100 gearbox extension panel (forward gearbox tunnel vertical panel) originally, was there a piece of tar paper glued to the gearbox side? I found tar paper that is very similar to the floor material glued to the underside (non carpet side). I plan to insulate the car well with better material, just was wondering if this was an original piece of tar paper.
> TIA, Shawn
>  
> The Millers
>  
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 09:41:11 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 08:41:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New fun
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR04MB7583BB0404F5F698F7325F9C90509@SJ0PR04MB7583.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABXhz88tm+aYPPsTXAyfOOtLy7eyx5S70BqkLTAtfbmrJwPrOQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <SJ0PR04MB7583BB0404F5F698F7325F9C90509@SJ0PR04MB7583.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_Y0+Zg2s6bVzJtcgW23GFETWg3+cDgre-Ev1D5fGDcLg@mail.gmail.com>

My thoughts too, as it does start driving normally if I keep going. Just
hyper sensitive driving solo in limited population areas.
I put hd 8s on my BT7 engine, never had vapor lock issues with the hd6
carbs.
Engine is 60 over with mild race cam and balanced so it can use the bigger
carbs.
Slight pull on choke keeps it going.
Cheers

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, May 14, 2021, 8:36 AM Henry A. Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:

> When you stop your car the gas in the carburetors boils and then you have
> air gaps that have to run out until you get a fresh flow of cool fuel
> moving in.  The car will sputter and cough in this condition especially if
> there is ethanol in your fuel.
>
> My five cents
>
> Henry Morrison
>
> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs via
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 14, 2021 8:47 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] New fun
>
> Took my car to my mechanic to sort out gremlins and install fresh air
> tubed.
> Car runs great,  cool air to feet is wonderful.
> My idle problem is worse, but did not show up for him.
> I'm heading to conclave. Engine just sings until I get to a stop. It just
> dies. After I park for a bio break, it will restart, but acts like it's a
> bad condenser, kinda stutters, but keeps going and then settles in and runs
> great.
> Any ideas? Could sticky needle and seat be the issue? I do smell some fuel
> smells, just for a very short time.
> Thanks all
> Anyone in Reno who can help? I will hopefully be there in the early
> afternoon today.
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 09:43:32 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 08:43:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dimensions
In-Reply-To: <000501d748d1$1240f290$36c2d7b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000501d748d1$1240f290$36c2d7b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_oPabJ7HBGizqthYdOaUnOx_ZOn2CvKwuwA-hUCy=Tww@mail.gmail.com>

My quick jack came with rubber block, so you can clear the exhaust system.
Bought mine used for $750.
Came complete with all blocks

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Fri, May 14, 2021, 7:55 AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Still looking, albeit in a fairly desultory fashion, for a lift. I saw the
> recent correspondence regarding the QuickJack system and that the opinions
> were fairly positive.
>
> Assuming that you have a 3000, where do you put the 4 jacking points or
> can you go straight on below the chassis?
>
> I?m told that one should not lift by the sills, which makes sense and that
> a ?good? point is at the junction of the outriggers to the chassis.
>
> The QuickJack is fairly pricey over here, for what it is, and I?m looking
> at other systems. I?d get a 2-poster like a shot but am have very little
> overhead clearance. So, scissors are a good option. With that in mind, can
> anyone tell me what the distance is between A & B per the attached. It is
> supposed to show the distance between the mid-point of the fore and aft
> outriggers.
>
> If only the chassis was not so narrow!
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Fri May 14 10:01:08 2021
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 12:01:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
In-Reply-To: <3F80CB0E-5513-4522-96F0-FC63E66D4448@sbcglobal.net>
References: <3F80CB0E-5513-4522-96F0-FC63E66D4448@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <D436851F-4AB4-4E98-BDC7-A748C60E4A5B@mac.com>

Yep. Dynamite on both sides should take care of most anything! Hah ha.
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 14, 2021, at 11:09 AM, David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Put the dynamite on both sides 
> 
> David Nock
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On May 14, 2021, at 4:22 AM, S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> Thank you David. I think I will install the new tar paper, as you said you do, over the insulation. That will make for a nice touch. Also I'll save the old piece as, "hey this is the original tar paper piece from the car". It's actually in good shape for its age. 
>> Thanks again. Shawn
>> 
>> 
>> The Millers
>>  
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
>> From: David Nock BCS <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 6:59 PM
>> To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
>>  
>> Yes originally there was Tap Paper with a rubber air deflector.
>>  
>> When we are doing a interior we will cover the trans tunnel and the vertical panel with Dynamat and then on the vertical panel we glue the tap paper in place to make it look correct. Then install the rubber air deflector to stop the hot air from flowing over the top of the transmission.
>>  
>> <104_0773[2].jpg>
>>  
>> David Nock
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> 209 948 8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> 
>> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
>> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
>> by visiting the site at.
>> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>>  
>> From: S and T Miller via Healeys
>> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 3:41 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] 100 gearbox extension panel
>>  
>> On the 100 gearbox extension panel (forward gearbox tunnel vertical panel) originally, was there a piece of tar paper glued to the gearbox side? I found tar paper that is very similar to the floor material glued to the underside (non carpet side). I plan to insulate the car well with better material, just was wondering if this was an original piece of tar paper.
>> TIA, Shawn
>>  
>> The Millers
>>  
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com
> 
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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 11:04:31 2021
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 13:04:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New fun
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_Y0+Zg2s6bVzJtcgW23GFETWg3+cDgre-Ev1D5fGDcLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88tm+aYPPsTXAyfOOtLy7eyx5S70BqkLTAtfbmrJwPrOQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <SJ0PR04MB7583BB0404F5F698F7325F9C90509@SJ0PR04MB7583.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz8_Y0+Zg2s6bVzJtcgW23GFETWg3+cDgre-Ev1D5fGDcLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdgP9=Z=JHNoTC4R4o2RUT1SMyt9jZLCCHNB1T33BCvjRg@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds like your idle is set too low?
Elton

On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 11:42 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> My thoughts too, as it does start driving normally if I keep going. Just
> hyper sensitive driving solo in limited population areas.
> I put hd 8s on my BT7 engine, never had vapor lock issues with the hd6
> carbs.
> Engine is 60 over with mild race cam and balanced so it can use the bigger
> carbs.
> Slight pull on choke keeps it going.
> Cheers
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Fri, May 14, 2021, 8:36 AM Henry A. Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> When you stop your car the gas in the carburetors boils and then you have
>> air gaps that have to run out until you get a fresh flow of cool fuel
>> moving in.  The car will sputter and cough in this condition especially if
>> there is ethanol in your fuel.
>>
>> My five cents
>>
>> Henry Morrison
>>
>> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs via
>> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 14, 2021 8:47 AM
>> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] New fun
>>
>> Took my car to my mechanic to sort out gremlins and install fresh air
>> tubed.
>> Car runs great,  cool air to feet is wonderful.
>> My idle problem is worse, but did not show up for him.
>> I'm heading to conclave. Engine just sings until I get to a stop. It just
>> dies. After I park for a bio break, it will restart, but acts like it's a
>> bad condenser, kinda stutters, but keeps going and then settles in and runs
>> great.
>> Any ideas? Could sticky needle and seat be the issue? I do smell some
>> fuel smells, just for a very short time.
>> Thanks all
>> Anyone in Reno who can help? I will hopefully be there in the early
>> afternoon today.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> 1959 AH 100-6
>> 1967 MGB
>> Milwaukie, OR
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri May 14 13:26:44 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 15:26:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <cfb9c439-7f12-5df9-e155-9b11df7cbb14@comcast.net>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <cfb9c439-7f12-5df9-e155-9b11df7cbb14@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000201d748f7$13a79230$3af6b690$@gmail.com>

Costco has 5000# model on sale for $1050 right now, it is $150 less than the standard Costco price.  Compared to other adverts this is a great price.

If so many of you Healey owner have a Quickjack and it fits our cars, I guess I should buy one and stop using floor jacks.  

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 11:18 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift

I have a 5000# model (Costco had them on sale for $1,000 a while back). 
They just fit under a Healey (this is under my BN2). You gotta be careful to get the CG right, I had the BN2 up on mine and I'd placed the car too far to the rear, when I removed one of the front wheels the car started to tip to the rear (wheel went back on about as quick as you can do it).

Bob

On 5/13/2021 7:54 PM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what 
> you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for 
> lifting a Healey?
> Thanks in advance,
> Elton
>



From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Fri May 14 13:34:26 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 15:34:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dimensions
In-Reply-To: <000501d748d1$1240f290$36c2d7b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000501d748d1$1240f290$36c2d7b0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <b551ca34-e14c-c56a-e03b-6047ab7092b5@earthlink.net>

Simon,

The dimension from the front face of the front outrigger to the back 
face of the rear outrigger is 39 7/16" or 100.17 cm.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/14/21 10:54 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Still looking, albeit in a fairly desultory fashion, for a lift. I saw 
> the recent correspondence regarding the QuickJack system and that the 
> opinions were fairly positive.
>
> Assuming that you have a 3000, where do you put the 4 jacking points 
> or can you go straight on below the chassis?
>
> I?m told that one should not lift by the sills, which makes sense and 
> that a ?good? point is at the junction of the outriggers to the chassis.
>
> The QuickJack is fairly pricey over here, for what it is, and I?m 
> looking at other systems. I?d get a 2-poster like a shot but am have 
> very little overhead clearance. So, scissors are a good option. With 
> that in mind, can anyone tell me what the distance is between A & B 
> per the attached. It is supposed to show the distance between the 
> mid-point of the fore and aft outriggers.
>
> If only the chassis was not so narrow!
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From cgmoog at optonline.net  Fri May 14 14:32:14 2021
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 16:32:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <000201d748f7$13a79230$3af6b690$@gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <cfb9c439-7f12-5df9-e155-9b11df7cbb14@comcast.net>
 <000201d748f7$13a79230$3af6b690$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4873c198-8a27-9f8d-f296-0b52ff35eb71@optonline.net>

I bought a 5000 lbs one a year ago.  Have used for the Jaguar (2004 XJ8) 
and the Corvette.  Works well.  Have not needed it yet for the other cars.


On 5/14/2021 3:26 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:
> Costco has 5000# model on sale for $1050 right now, it is $150 less than the standard Costco price.  Compared to other adverts this is a great price.
>
> If so many of you Healey owner have a Quickjack and it fits our cars, I guess I should buy one and stop using floor jacks.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 11:18 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
>
> I have a 5000# model (Costco had them on sale for $1,000 a while back).
> They just fit under a Healey (this is under my BN2). You gotta be careful to get the CG right, I had the BN2 up on mine and I'd placed the car too far to the rear, when I removed one of the front wheels the car started to tip to the rear (wheel went back on about as quick as you can do it).
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/13/2021 7:54 PM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
>> Fellow Listers,
>> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what
>> you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for
>> lifting a Healey?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Elton
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>


From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri May 14 18:55:10 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 17:55:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88bzD69s7_OOSOFgb1aKbooXRXwKEgdOnKKGbfxuBYfuA@mail.gmail.com>

I have one. My Sprite had no issues with 5k jack
Have not put my big healey on it yet, but I just found my bag or rubber
blocks so I can gsin clearance of the exhaust.
Will do so after my 2500 mile rt to Conclave.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, May 13, 2021, 7:56 PM Elton S via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Fellow Listers,
> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what you
> think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for lifting a
> Healey?
> Thanks in advance,
> Elton
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri May 14 20:39:59 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 19:39:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <000201d748f7$13a79230$3af6b690$@gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <cfb9c439-7f12-5df9-e155-9b11df7cbb14@comcast.net>
 <000201d748f7$13a79230$3af6b690$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea931e5f-7873-5707-513b-c62706e6435d@comcast.net>

Since my BN2 has adjustable shock plates I got the QJ so it would be 
easier to lift and lower it repeatedly when changing camber and toe 
settings. Put a 2" spacer under the shock bumper pads and you can get 
pretty close to normal ride height, set camber and toe, take if for a 
spin to check the ride, rinse and repeat.

My BFF bought my dad's '55 T-Bird and a QJ on my recommendation; he's 
happy with both.

bs

On 5/14/2021 12:26 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
> Costco has 5000# model on sale for $1050 right now, it is $150 less than the standard Costco price.  Compared to other adverts this is a great price.
>
> If so many of you Healey owner have a Quickjack and it fits our cars, I guess I should buy one and stop using floor jacks.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 11:18 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
>
> I have a 5000# model (Costco had them on sale for $1,000 a while back).
> They just fit under a Healey (this is under my BN2). You gotta be careful to get the CG right, I had the BN2 up on mine and I'd placed the car too far to the rear, when I removed one of the front wheels the car started to tip to the rear (wheel went back on about as quick as you can do it).
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/13/2021 7:54 PM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
>> Fellow Listers,
>> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what
>> you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for
>> lifting a Healey?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Elton
>>
>


From drtommitch at gmail.com  Sat May 15 13:36:27 2021
From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 15:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
In-Reply-To: <746283096.2333706.1619648033186@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net>
 <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com>
 <d4c5eb76-b19a-f538-d361-e3448d5ae30b@earthlink.net>
 <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com>
 <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol>
 <CALPtYiNvmkwvq4B=jky=Lxg43GgvVC0BaAmQaXFT_Lj38sFNwg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6XfYWWm5eG=DmYZb_r+uLLpeYr95FQ4mGuVoqcyqpPzw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKfrpic=i26UuNxHTMofYXeVXH7OvufE-hCU0vmzkE5SA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CegW3Xu9WaCg8N1WD4mjpFtT7sgWGgZG8hqs_=eaywg@mail.gmail.com>
 <746283096.2333706.1619648033186@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAOqP0SKrdT2AJwg3xzB5FGtjHKVwu5aO5e4XihaN6Hkf7-Awsw@mail.gmail.com>

Ok after a lot of searching and receiving similar PCV parts, yet not
close.  I finially got a original pvc valve PC727 only to find out that
it's the same as a NAPA product that I already had.

On Wed, Apr 28, 2021, 6:16 PM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As mentioned in an earlier email , the stock 100 setup does vent the
> internal crankcase areas to the atmosphere but only when the car is moving
> forward. On many early cars the draft tube was the solution. Some cars even
> had enough engine compartment air movement via the rad fan to activate the
> process..  The 100 did not have a lot of CFM from the stock fan.
> The draft tube does make a "negative pressure" at the tip as the air moves
> under it thus reducing crankcase pressure but when you slow down or stop in
> traffic that negative pressure goes away. Using manifold pressure was a
> better solution to meet the early pollution control regulations.
> P
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2021 5:33 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>
> Michael--
>
> As I suspected. Why then doesn't the 100's stock vent tube setup serve as
> a sort of PCV valve in that it lowers crankcase pressures though it does
> not recirculate gasses into the engine versus the environment?  How
> different in effect is the venting of positive pressure to the atmosphere
> versus negative pressure created by the PCV circuit?  Wouldn't the vent
> tube's being open to atmosphere decrease the chance of blow-by out the rear
> of the engineer into the bell housing?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:52 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?"
> That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with an
> "O" ring on it.
> [image: image.png]
>
> Stay tuned for results :-)
>
> M
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they
> have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming
> out of it with engine running.
> How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system
> such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the
> vacuum sought?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding
> in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture
> from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured
> the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ?
> Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve
> regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be
> interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few
> miles.
> Just wondering...
> rg
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <https://mail.aol.com/webmail-std/en-us/suite#m_-1354533715998493471_m_3004266338563420122_m_-5118384287329560660_m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to
> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the
> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block
> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air.
>
> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project]
>
> Harold
>
> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM
> *To: *Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; Healey List
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>
> Bob:
>
> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap
> soldered.  No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such
> as the valve cover?  The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil
> fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has  a vent on the side into which I
> stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad.  The reason was that in the early
> days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so
> fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was
> desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase.
>
> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed
> could comment on the operation.  Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no
> more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride
> are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath.  Next
> time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount
> of oil increases.  If it does I may seal vent to see what happens.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM
> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>
> Bob,
>
> Thanks for the info.  I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car
> yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.  I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8"
> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a
> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date.
> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter
> inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2"
> hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.  3/8"
> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.  Added hose clamps at
> each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Bob:
> >
> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of
> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose
> > into it with a hose clamp.    Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ??
> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into
> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large
> > opening for the brake booster.  No leakage and strong negative
> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the
> > clutch dramatically.
> >
> > Bob Begani
> >
> > *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> > Haskell
> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM
> > *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm
> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).  Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb)
> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.  3/8" hose to the
> > PCV valve.  Two questions:
> >
> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way?
> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys
> > vertical (engine side down).
> >
> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV
> > valve is 1/2".  Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters
> > on each end?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May 15 14:30:09 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 16:30:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
In-Reply-To: <CAOqP0SKrdT2AJwg3xzB5FGtjHKVwu5aO5e4XihaN6Hkf7-Awsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net>
 <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com>
 <d4c5eb76-b19a-f538-d361-e3448d5ae30b@earthlink.net>
 <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com>
 <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol>
 <CALPtYiNvmkwvq4B=jky=Lxg43GgvVC0BaAmQaXFT_Lj38sFNwg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6XfYWWm5eG=DmYZb_r+uLLpeYr95FQ4mGuVoqcyqpPzw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKfrpic=i26UuNxHTMofYXeVXH7OvufE-hCU0vmzkE5SA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CegW3Xu9WaCg8N1WD4mjpFtT7sgWGgZG8hqs_=eaywg@mail.gmail.com>
 <746283096.2333706.1619648033186@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAOqP0SKrdT2AJwg3xzB5FGtjHKVwu5aO5e4XihaN6Hkf7-Awsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ61URRcDKMCe0cj3YjxA807bHaBW9WAQyJm+v44Tgcyw@mail.gmail.com>

Well I  finally got to test my PCV system on my 100.
Unfortunately the results were only a qualified success.  I used V408 as
fitted to a 2006 Pathfinder.
This is a horizontally installed spring loaded PCV valve and that is how it
is in my system.
The nice feature of the installation is that it is almost impossible to see.
This pic shows the assembly before fitting and painting.

[image: image.png]
It is interesting to note that the angle cut on the end of the road pipe
(which I have blocked off with a brass plug) is cut the wrong way to
produce a  Bernoulli effect but that is how it was originally.
I removed the dipstick and installed a tube leading to a manometer inside
the car. My buddy watched the manometer while we did an extended test drive.
Most of the time during normal cruise the manometer showed about 8" of
water depression in the crankcase, which would be ideal, however it was
inconsistent.
Sometimes, particularly after a short burst on the the throttle, the
manometer would show 10 or more inches of pressure in the crankcase for a
considerable period of time which was only converted to a depression after
closing the throttle momentarily .
On average there was some degree of depression in the crankcase but the
engine still deposited its customary "mark" when I stopped.
Results inconclusive... more study required.

M






On Sat., May 15, 2021, 3:37 p.m. Tom Mitchell via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ok after a lot of searching and receiving similar PCV parts, yet not
> close.  I finially got a original pvc valve PC727 only to find out that
> it's the same as a NAPA product that I already had.
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021, 6:16 PM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> As mentioned in an earlier email , the stock 100 setup does vent the
>> internal crankcase areas to the atmosphere but only when the car is moving
>> forward. On many early cars the draft tube was the solution. Some cars even
>> had enough engine compartment air movement via the rad fan to activate the
>> process..  The 100 did not have a lot of CFM from the stock fan.
>> The draft tube does make a "negative pressure" at the tip as the air
>> moves under it thus reducing crankcase pressure but when you slow down or
>> stop in traffic that negative pressure goes away. Using manifold pressure
>> was a better solution to meet the early pollution control regulations.
>> P
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2021 5:33 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>
>> Michael--
>>
>> As I suspected. Why then doesn't the 100's stock vent tube setup serve as
>> a sort of PCV valve in that it lowers crankcase pressures though it does
>> not recirculate gasses into the engine versus the environment?  How
>> different in effect is the venting of positive pressure to the atmosphere
>> versus negative pressure created by the PCV circuit?  Wouldn't the vent
>> tube's being open to atmosphere decrease the chance of blow-by out the rear
>> of the engineer into the bell housing?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:52 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?"
>> That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with
>> an "O" ring on it.
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> Stay tuned for results :-)
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they
>> have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming
>> out of it with engine running.
>> How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system
>> such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the
>> vacuum sought?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding
>> in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture
>> from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured
>> the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ?
>> Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve
>> regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be
>> interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few
>> miles.
>> Just wondering...
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virus-free.
>> www.avg.com
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>> <https://mail.aol.com/webmail-std/en-us/suite#m_-1354533715998493471_m_3004266338563420122_m_-5118384287329560660_m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to
>> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the
>> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block
>> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air.
>>
>> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project]
>>
>> Harold
>>
>> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM
>> *To: *Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; Healey List
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>
>> Bob:
>>
>> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap
>> soldered.  No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such
>> as the valve cover?  The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil
>> fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has  a vent on the side into which I
>> stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad.  The reason was that in the early
>> days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so
>> fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was
>> desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase.
>>
>> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed
>> could comment on the operation.  Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no
>> more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride
>> are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath.  Next
>> time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount
>> of oil increases.  If it does I may seal vent to see what happens.
>>
>> Bob Begani
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM
>> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Thanks for the info.  I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car
>> yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.  I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8"
>> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a
>> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date.
>> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter
>> inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2"
>> hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.  3/8"
>> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.  Added hose clamps
>> at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Bob:
>> >
>> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of
>> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose
>> > into it with a hose clamp.    Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ??
>> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into
>> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large
>> > opening for the brake booster.  No leakage and strong negative
>> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the
>> > clutch dramatically.
>> >
>> > Bob Begani
>> >
>> > *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
>> > Haskell
>> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM
>> > *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>> >
>> > Listers,
>> >
>> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm
>> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).  Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb)
>> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.  3/8" hose to the
>> > PCV valve.  Two questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way?
>> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys
>> > vertical (engine side down).
>> >
>> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV
>> > valve is 1/2".  Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters
>> > on each end?
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Bob Haskell
>> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May 15 14:39:51 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 16:39:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ61URRcDKMCe0cj3YjxA807bHaBW9WAQyJm+v44Tgcyw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net>
 <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com>
 <d4c5eb76-b19a-f538-d361-e3448d5ae30b@earthlink.net>
 <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com>
 <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol>
 <CALPtYiNvmkwvq4B=jky=Lxg43GgvVC0BaAmQaXFT_Lj38sFNwg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6XfYWWm5eG=DmYZb_r+uLLpeYr95FQ4mGuVoqcyqpPzw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKfrpic=i26UuNxHTMofYXeVXH7OvufE-hCU0vmzkE5SA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CegW3Xu9WaCg8N1WD4mjpFtT7sgWGgZG8hqs_=eaywg@mail.gmail.com>
 <746283096.2333706.1619648033186@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAOqP0SKrdT2AJwg3xzB5FGtjHKVwu5aO5e4XihaN6Hkf7-Awsw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ61URRcDKMCe0cj3YjxA807bHaBW9WAQyJm+v44Tgcyw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJSmNt2rtbgtnGBCZnwaXSnPduvLRnq_wuwc1jbH_X7iQ@mail.gmail.com>

Nor sure that this pic came through.

On Sat., May 15, 2021, 4:30 p.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Well I  finally got to test my PCV system on my 100.
> Unfortunately the results were only a qualified success.  I used V408 as
> fitted to a 2006 Pathfinder.
> This is a horizontally installed spring loaded PCV valve and that is how
> it is in my system.
> The nice feature of the installation is that it is almost impossible to
> see.
> This pic shows the assembly before fitting and painting.
>
> [image: image.png]
> It is interesting to note that the angle cut on the end of the road pipe
> (which I have blocked off with a brass plug) is cut the wrong way to
> produce a  Bernoulli effect but that is how it was originally.
> I removed the dipstick and installed a tube leading to a manometer inside
> the car. My buddy watched the manometer while we did an extended test drive.
> Most of the time during normal cruise the manometer showed about 8" of
> water depression in the crankcase, which would be ideal, however it was
> inconsistent.
> Sometimes, particularly after a short burst on the the throttle, the
> manometer would show 10 or more inches of pressure in the crankcase for a
> considerable period of time which was only converted to a depression after
> closing the throttle momentarily .
> On average there was some degree of depression in the crankcase but the
> engine still deposited its customary "mark" when I stopped.
> Results inconclusive... more study required.
>
> M
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat., May 15, 2021, 3:37 p.m. Tom Mitchell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Ok after a lot of searching and receiving similar PCV parts, yet not
>> close.  I finially got a original pvc valve PC727 only to find out that
>> it's the same as a NAPA product that I already had.
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021, 6:16 PM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> As mentioned in an earlier email , the stock 100 setup does vent the
>>> internal crankcase areas to the atmosphere but only when the car is moving
>>> forward. On many early cars the draft tube was the solution. Some cars even
>>> had enough engine compartment air movement via the rad fan to activate the
>>> process..  The 100 did not have a lot of CFM from the stock fan.
>>> The draft tube does make a "negative pressure" at the tip as the air
>>> moves under it thus reducing crankcase pressure but when you slow down or
>>> stop in traffic that negative pressure goes away. Using manifold pressure
>>> was a better solution to meet the early pollution control regulations.
>>> P
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2021 5:33 pm
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>>
>>> Michael--
>>>
>>> As I suspected. Why then doesn't the 100's stock vent tube setup serve
>>> as a sort of PCV valve in that it lowers crankcase pressures though it does
>>> not recirculate gasses into the engine versus the environment?  How
>>> different in effect is the venting of positive pressure to the atmosphere
>>> versus negative pressure created by the PCV circuit?  Wouldn't the vent
>>> tube's being open to atmosphere decrease the chance of blow-by out the rear
>>> of the engineer into the bell housing?
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:52 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?"
>>> That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with
>>> an "O" ring on it.
>>> [image: image.png]
>>>
>>> Stay tuned for results :-)
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe
>>> they have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure
>>> coming out of it with engine running.
>>> How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system
>>> such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the
>>> vacuum sought?
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding
>>> in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture
>>> from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured
>>> the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ?
>>> Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve
>>> regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be
>>> interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few
>>> miles.
>>> Just wondering...
>>> rg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virus-free.
>>> www.avg.com
>>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>>> <https://mail.aol.com/webmail-std/en-us/suite#m_-1354533715998493471_m_3004266338563420122_m_-5118384287329560660_m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to
>>> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the
>>> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block
>>> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air.
>>>
>>> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project]
>>>
>>> Harold
>>>
>>> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM
>>> *To: *Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; Healey List
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>>
>>> Bob:
>>>
>>> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill
>>> cap soldered.  No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets
>>> such as the valve cover?  The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the
>>> oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has  a vent on the side into which
>>> I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad.  The reason was that in the
>>> early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather
>>> so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it
>>> was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase.
>>>
>>> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system
>>> sealed could comment on the operation.  Currently on regular 25-mile drives
>>> at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the
>>> ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath.
>>> Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the
>>> amount of oil increases.  If it does I may seal vent to see what happens.
>>>
>>> Bob Begani
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM
>>> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the info.  I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the
>>> car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.  I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8"
>>> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a
>>> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date.
>>> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter
>>> inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2"
>>> hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.  3/8"
>>> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.  Added hose clamps
>>> at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Bob:
>>> >
>>> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of
>>> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose
>>> > into it with a hose clamp.    Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ??
>>> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into
>>> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large
>>> > opening for the brake booster.  No leakage and strong negative
>>> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the
>>> > clutch dramatically.
>>> >
>>> > Bob Begani
>>> >
>>> > *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
>>> > Haskell
>>> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM
>>> > *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation
>>> >
>>> > Listers,
>>> >
>>> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm
>>> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).  Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb)
>>> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.  3/8" hose to the
>>> > PCV valve.  Two questions:
>>> >
>>> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way?
>>> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys
>>> > vertical (engine side down).
>>> >
>>> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV
>>> > valve is 1/2".  Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters
>>> > on each end?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks.
>>> >
>>> > Cheers,
>>> > Bob Haskell
>>> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May 15 21:08:13 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 20:08:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88bzD69s7_OOSOFgb1aKbooXRXwKEgdOnKKGbfxuBYfuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz88bzD69s7_OOSOFgb1aKbooXRXwKEgdOnKKGbfxuBYfuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9739285f-351a-0d0b-8531-0e1b80a2daca@comcast.net>

As the late Mr. Jobs would say: "One more thing:"

The QJ has some specific maintenance instructions. All the pivot points 
need to be kept lubed--they recommend white lithium grease--but there 
are no zerks, just holes in the tubes.? I bought a pistol grip grease 
gun and a few tubes of WL grease, plus a tapered nozzle to inject the 
grease; it's messy and wasteful, but the grease gets where it needs to 
be. Also, there is an air cylinder on each to assist lowering; I noticed 
when I got my car up on the QJ and put jack stands under the rear 
springs and front A-arms to relieve the springs the QL would not 
completely lower from fully extended without weight on them. I think the 
manual says they are not designed to self-lower until they're just a few 
inches off the ground. The air cylinders spec 50psi with the QJ lowered 
IIRC (RTFM).

Bob

On 5/14/2021 5:55 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> I have one. My Sprite had no issues with 5k jack
> Have not put my big healey on it yet, but I just found my bag or 
> rubber blocks so I can gsin clearance of the exhaust.
> Will do so after my 2500 mile rt to Conclave.
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 7:56 PM Elton S via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Fellow Listers,
>     Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of
>     what you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it
>     suitable for lifting a Healey?
>     Thanks in advance,
>     Elton
>

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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Sun May 16 10:06:08 2021
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 12:06:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <9739285f-351a-0d0b-8531-0e1b80a2daca@comcast.net>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz88bzD69s7_OOSOFgb1aKbooXRXwKEgdOnKKGbfxuBYfuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <9739285f-351a-0d0b-8531-0e1b80a2daca@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdgmwZ-QyBJN2TibFua-u9gTahh6ArnJXDie3nrAF4CyTg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
Where are your lifting points on your Healey with the QuickJack?
Elton

On Sat, May 15, 2021 at 11:09 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> As the late Mr. Jobs would say: "One more thing:"
>
> The QJ has some specific maintenance instructions. All the pivot points
> need to be kept lubed--they recommend white lithium grease--but there are
> no zerks, just holes in the tubes.  I bought a pistol grip grease gun and a
> few tubes of WL grease, plus a tapered nozzle to inject the grease; it's
> messy and wasteful, but the grease gets where it needs to be. Also, there
> is an air cylinder on each to assist lowering; I noticed when I got my car
> up on the QJ and put jack stands under the rear springs and front A-arms to
> relieve the springs the QL would not completely lower from fully extended
> without weight on them. I think the manual says they are not designed to
> self-lower until they're just a few inches off the ground. The air
> cylinders spec 50psi with the QJ lowered IIRC (RTFM).
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/14/2021 5:55 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
>
> I have one. My Sprite had no issues with 5k jack
> Have not put my big healey on it yet, but I just found my bag or rubber
> blocks so I can gsin clearance of the exhaust.
> Will do so after my 2500 mile rt to Conclave.
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2021, 7:56 PM Elton S via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Fellow Listers,
>> Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion of what you
>> think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it suitable for lifting a
>> Healey?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Elton
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun May 16 11:39:56 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 13:39:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] My web site
References: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>



So far this month I have put up 17 new items and corrected 21 broken links.
The new items are all up to date and I am down to 12 broken links. Hope to
have it all  finished this week.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun May 16 12:39:19 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 18:39:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage VOM for sale
References: <456077128.1125999.1621190359624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <456077128.1125999.1621190359624@mail.yahoo.com>

Micronta from the 60s I believe.Range Doubler Multitester and has 43 ranges. ?All functions work as far as I know. ?Still in the box and even has the silicagel packet. ?Excellent condition.First $50 wins it!!! ?Plus shipping from 23602Keith
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun May 16 12:47:03 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 11:47:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLLcK9MGiW=X-PLd9gFzAphmr6q+=ZtO1-B-_U3s-M=Yg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMzeQOa8PARN9=-7+ycA0DCZ9VvQV9E+K0VGoEbGbmu-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeSBLzW35FtpRHcSDzi7nXUzPePjzBbMj3mAuvnYBwhmaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLU0oAf+4dF9ZmsBkwdEwOk4JwG_fAX6VGi00OR5r5g2Ww@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLLcK9MGiW=X-PLd9gFzAphmr6q+=ZtO1-B-_U3s-M=Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRmgS_BpT-MSo+gJf5UM4jzoSgxM0O96mdzV896ZkyXxg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

Thanks for posting this photo.   It goes to show just how quickly the
factory identified and fixed the problem with the switch installation.

Cheers,

Curt
On Tue, May 4, 2021, 09:38 Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes Curt is correct regarding how the switch was installed in the 100.
> For confirmation these 2 pics show how it was originally installed in
> B.#174
> [image: image.png]
> The ragged edges of the asbestos are original and seem to indicate that it
> was broken away manually to make room for the dip switch.
> The overlength screws are what were originally used.
>
> [image: image.png]
> From inside only the screws and button of the switch were visible.
>
> M
>
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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Sun May 16 13:10:06 2021
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 15:10:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  My web site
In-Reply-To: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
References: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CACpcE-_GoubzDxGJ1PgWqJLyXqaOuxMPLsTLMM5nw-HVc3kS8g@mail.gmail.com>

Thank You!

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, May 16, 2021, 1:41 PM
Subject: [Healeys] My web site
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>


*So far this month I have put up 17 new items and corrected 21 broken
links. The new items are all up to date and I am down to 12 broken links.
Hope to have it all  finished this week.*



*John Sims*

*www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*

*Matawan, NJ*


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun May 16 14:48:58 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 13:48:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: My web site
In-Reply-To: <CACpcE-_GoubzDxGJ1PgWqJLyXqaOuxMPLsTLMM5nw-HVc3kS8g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
 <CACpcE-_GoubzDxGJ1PgWqJLyXqaOuxMPLsTLMM5nw-HVc3kS8g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOPPPLRZ-Yz92VyT6U-g38AhE38_MpAx-MMwHyZk2JEXfA@mail.gmail.com>

A great resource.  Thank you John.
Mike MacLean

On Sun, May 16, 2021, 12:10 PM Warren Dietz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Thank You!
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sun, May 16, 2021, 1:41 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] My web site
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
> *So far this month I have put up 17 new items and corrected 21 broken
> links. The new items are all up to date and I am down to 12 broken links.
> Hope to have it all  finished this week.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Sun May 16 15:02:02 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 14:02:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Vintage VOM for sale
In-Reply-To: <456077128.1125999.1621190359624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <456077128.1125999.1621190359624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <456077128.1125999.1621190359624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <dab85edd-9d02-6400-fffc-5dbcf7a10569@comcast.net>

This is what I have, from the 60s.? Still works fine? I recommend it.? 
Even came with extra fuses.? What product does that, nowadays!

Mike

On 5/16/2021 11:39 AM, llennep--- via Healeys wrote:
> Micronta from the 60s I believe.
> Range Doubler Multitester and has 43 ranges. ?All functions work as 
> far as I know. ?Still in the box and even has the silicagel packet. 
> ?Excellent condition.
> First $50 wins it!!! ?Plus shipping from 23602
> Keith
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 16 17:54:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 16:54:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdgmwZ-QyBJN2TibFua-u9gTahh6ArnJXDie3nrAF4CyTg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdjT67ZNAxU6DTf-KBkwK1AAemCFND9_YAFk+-z2Wst4Xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz88bzD69s7_OOSOFgb1aKbooXRXwKEgdOnKKGbfxuBYfuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <9739285f-351a-0d0b-8531-0e1b80a2daca@comcast.net>
 <CAFKLAdgmwZ-QyBJN2TibFua-u9gTahh6ArnJXDie3nrAF4CyTg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f3b78b1f-f3cd-75de-43bb-2dacbade8ca6@comcast.net>

In front, on the frame near the motor mounts. In the rear, just ahead of 
the rear axle. You can move the mounts about a foot forward and back.


On 5/16/2021 9:06 AM, Elton S wrote:
> Bob,
> Where are your lifting points on your Healey with the QuickJack?
> Elton
>
> On Sat, May 15, 2021 at 11:09 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     As the late Mr. Jobs would say: "One more thing:"
>
>     The QJ has some specific maintenance instructions. All the pivot
>     points need to be kept lubed--they recommend white lithium
>     grease--but there are no zerks, just holes in the tubes.? I bought
>     a pistol grip grease gun and a few tubes of WL grease, plus a
>     tapered nozzle to inject the grease; it's messy and wasteful, but
>     the grease gets where it needs to be. Also, there is an air
>     cylinder on each to assist lowering; I noticed when I got my car
>     up on the QJ and put jack stands under the rear springs and front
>     A-arms to relieve the springs the QL would not completely lower
>     from fully extended without weight on them. I think the manual
>     says they are not designed to self-lower until they're just a few
>     inches off the ground. The air cylinders spec 50psi with the QJ
>     lowered IIRC (RTFM).
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 5/14/2021 5:55 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
>>     I have one. My Sprite had no issues with 5k jack
>>     Have not put my big healey on it yet, but I just found my bag or
>>     rubber blocks so I can gsin clearance of the exhaust.
>>     Will do so after my 2500 mile rt to Conclave.
>>
>>     Ira Erbs
>>     1959 AH 100-6
>>     1967 MGB
>>     Milwaukie, OR
>>
>>     On Thu, May 13, 2021, 7:56 PM Elton S via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         Fellow Listers,
>>         Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your opinion
>>         of what you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it
>>         suitable for lifting a Healey?
>>         Thanks in advance,
>>         Elton
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May 16 18:46:05 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 17:46:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] My web site
In-Reply-To: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
References: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-xN8xD8E6p4DTmO4h6uchWVZgJL71TnREpJQEkNMYZTA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks John

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, May 16, 2021, 10:41 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> *So far this month I have put up 17 new items and corrected 21 broken
> links. The new items are all up to date and I am down to 12 broken links.
> Hope to have it all  finished this week.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun May 16 18:59:30 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2021 00:59:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift
Message-ID: <7586672f82c2ff8f4524bfafe749d528777fca64@webmail>

If you lift the car there be sure to first put a block on the shock
tower to protect the rebound rubber from crushing. If you damage it,
you can't replace it without removing the shock, etc! See photo
previously sent. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: "Elton S"
Cc: "Ahealey help"
Sent: Sunday May 16 2021 4:55:23PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] QuickJack Car Lift

 In front, on the frame near the motor mounts. In the rear, just ahead
of the rear axle. You can move the mounts about a foot forward and
back.

On 5/16/2021 9:06 AM, Elton S wrote:
  Bob, Where are your lifting points on your Healey with the
QuickJack? Elton  
 On Sat, May 15, 2021 at 11:09 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  As the late Mr. Jobs would say: "One more thing:"

 The QJ has some specific maintenance instructions. All the pivot
points need to be kept lubed--they recommend white lithium grease--but
there are no zerks, just holes in the tubes. I bought a pistol grip
grease gun and a few tubes of WL grease, plus a tapered nozzle to
inject the grease; it's messy and wasteful, but the grease gets where
it needs to be. Also, there is an air cylinder on each to assist
lowering; I noticed when I got my car up on the QJ and put jack stands
under the rear springs and front A-arms to relieve the springs the QL
would not completely lower from fully extended without weight on them.
I think the manual says they are not designed to self-lower until
they're just a few inches off the ground. The air cylinders spec 50psi
with the QJ lowered IIRC (RTFM).

 Bob

On 5/14/2021 5:55 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
  I have one. My Sprite had no issues with 5k jack Have not put my big
healey on it yet, but I just found my bag or rubber blocks so I can
gsin clearance of the exhaust. Will do so after my 2500 mile rt to
Conclave.

Ira Erbs
 1959 AH 100-6
 1967 MGB
 Milwaukie, OR   
 On Thu, May 13, 2021, 7:56 PM Elton S via Healeys  wrote:
  Fellow Listers, Any of you have a QuickJack car lift? I'd like your
opinion of what you think of it, either the 5000# or the 7000#. Is it
suitable for lifting a Healey? Thanks in advance, Elton  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
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 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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Links:
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From wjc3 at citlink.net  Sun May 16 20:18:24 2021
From: wjc3 at citlink.net (wjc3 at citlink.net)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2021 02:18:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] My web site
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-xN8xD8E6p4DTmO4h6uchWVZgJL71TnREpJQEkNMYZTA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d74a7a$7d39bb40$77ad31c0$@verizon.net>
 <CABXhz8-xN8xD8E6p4DTmO4h6uchWVZgJL71TnREpJQEkNMYZTA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1994798984.1213291.1621217904285@mail.yahoo.com>

 John, Thanks for your Great Work! john
    On Sunday, May 16, 2021, 08:47:09 PM EDT, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Thanks John

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
On Sun, May 16, 2021, 10:41 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


So far this month I have put up 17 new items and corrected 21 broken links. The new items are all up to date and I am down to 12 broken links. Hope to have it all? finished this week.

?

John Sims

www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

?
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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon May 17 08:19:33 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2021 14:19:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] FOR SALE Steering idler and rods
References: <219270884.1372235.1621261173067.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <219270884.1372235.1621261173067@mail.yahoo.com>

Removed from a 3000 many years ago. ?BN7 or BJ8 I would say. ?With idler arm attached too. ? ?Good usable condition - no slop - needs cleanup.Cross rod and both side rods for the above. ?Also good condition.Sold only as a lot. ?$100 including shipping from 23602 to 48 states.Keith

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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon May 17 08:20:30 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2021 14:20:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale
References: <253110015.1360128.1621261230108.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <253110015.1360128.1621261230108@mail.yahoo.com>

2 original metal strips and 2 wood strips for one seat. ?Fair to poor condition. ?Metals have moderate or more pitting. ?Good for patterns.
Original battery fixing bar with 2 rods. ?Some pitting on bar.
Splash panel with stay. ?Very minor pitting. ?Left side.
All the above for $50 plus shipping from 23602. ?Sold only as a lot.Keith
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From cbaustin at verizon.net  Tue May 18 13:37:35 2021
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 15:37:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] WTB Air Cleaner 'Cages' for BN1 Filters
References: <50c45568-6f70-d82f-e2f9-9771f5e8c285.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <50c45568-6f70-d82f-e2f9-9771f5e8c285@verizon.net>

I'm looking for two, used, perforated metal 'cages'
used on the Burgess air filters for BN1.

For a non-stock 'project'.

Off-list is best, thanks, hope all are well,


Charley Braum


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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From bgdrab at redzone.ca  Tue May 18 17:00:28 2021
From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 23:00:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original.
I tried checking the archives but I don't know how to check by subject rather date - if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
Brian Drab
BJ8
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue May 18 18:11:39 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 20:11:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <004b01d74c43$8a6ba830$9f42f890$@verizon.net>

Have you considered installing a mechanical switch? See www.healey6.com
<http://www.healey6.com%20> Technical Page My Modifications Section.
Instructions for installation on negative and positive cars as well as
changing rear reflectors to brake lights and, if you wish a third brake
light. I made these modifications after an over the road truck almost rear
ended me at  a stop light.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Drab via
Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch

 

I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality
of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a
Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original. 

I tried checking the archives but I don't know how to check by subject
rather date - if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the
Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are from.
Can anyone help.

Brian Drab

BJ8

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 18 18:38:14 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 17:38:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <cb126881-0308-5428-b663-9c3da9ae3dc5@comcast.net>

I bought a switch from Ron Francis Wiring that was supposed to be much 
more sensitive; unfortunately, it was pipe thread and the Healey 
switches are machine.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/709


On 5/18/2021 4:00 PM, Brian Drab via Healeys wrote:
>
> I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor 
> quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people 
> advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than 
> the original.
>
> I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by subject 
> rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know is either 
> the Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches 
> are from. Can anyone help.
>
> Brian Drab
>
> BJ8
>
>

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue May 18 18:56:29 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 00:56:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507452D444CD5FE3CAE66FFD12B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Brian,
There was an article by Roger Moment in the Austin-Healey Club USA Magazine. I know he did an article in 2014 about it and one within he last couple of years too, I will have to find it and will let you know.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Brian Drab via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 18, 2021 6:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch

I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original.
I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
Brian Drab
BJ8

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From manifold at telus.net  Tue May 18 21:33:26 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 20:33:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507452D444CD5FE3CAE66FFD12B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507452D444CD5FE3CAE66FFD12B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4B7D534A-6EB5-4951-831C-8268104C52D5@telus.net>

Brian,

I measured the thread on a switch I have and it was 1/8 BSPT which isn?t really compatible with NPT. Slightly different diameter, pitch and thread angle. A 1/8 NPT fitting could damage the 4 way union.

Harold


> On May 18, 2021, at 5:57 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Brian,
> There was an article by Roger Moment in the Austin-Healey Club USA Magazine. I know he did an article in 2014 about it and one within he last couple of years too, I will have to find it and will let you know.
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Brian Drab via Healeys
> Sent: May 18, 2021 6:01 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>  
> I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original.
> I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
> Brian Drab
> BJ8
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
> 
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From kags at shaw.ca  Wed May 19 16:40:59 2021
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 15:40:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>

Hi Brian:

 

Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It may have
been related to a lot of people switching to silicone brake fluid.

 

I don't recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible, but some of
us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do recall one BJ8 owner
here that eventually gave up and installed a micro switch kit from a
hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed the problem.

 

I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2- 3 years -
all on BJ8's - including on my own, and on our friend DM's car, and all
seems well.  The word is that the parts now being supplied are better.
These switches came in Interpart boxes and were sourced from Bob Yule at
Autofarm in Ontario - they were not particularly expensive.

 

Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big Healey (6 cyl)
up to and including the very early BJ8's - uses a copper sealing washer -
with screw type wire terminals, and the later BJ8 which I believe is a taper
thread seal with fast-on terminals.

 

I have not seen Roger's articles that Jean mentioned, but I'll bet that all
pertinent information that is possible will be there - knowing Roger!

 

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

 

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Drab via
Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch

 

I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality
of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a
Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original. 

I tried checking the archives but I don't know how to check by subject
rather date - if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the
Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are from.
Can anyone help.

Brian Drab

BJ8



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From tappiokie at gmail.com  Wed May 19 16:57:51 2021
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 15:57:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CACkEpkSj8vDU8y4intD0MfxZRKoUMv4h2Jjv0u0Q2ANOQt-cEw@mail.gmail.com>

I use a "hot rod" switch from a place in New England [I am at Conclusive
right now]. Mechanical,  adjustable and reversible.  Sensitivity adjusted
to light up when pedal is touched. Original switch still in circuit as a
backup.  Jim Cox
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed May 19 17:51:47 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 19:51:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>

This link--
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html--will
take you to the Speedway site and the Accel brake switch shown is touted to
be American-made and useable on Harleys, so perhaps this is what the
original poster is looking for.

Best--Michael Oritt



On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi Brian:
>
>
>
> Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It may have
> been related to a lot of people switching to silicone brake fluid.
>
>
>
> I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible, but some
> of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do recall one BJ8
> owner here that eventually gave up and installed a micro switch kit from a
> hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed the problem.
>
>
>
> I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2- 3 years
> ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend DM?s car, and all
> seems well.  The word is that the parts now being supplied are better.
> These switches came in Interpart boxes and were sourced from Bob Yule at
> Autofarm in Ontario ? they were not particularly expensive.
>
>
>
> Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big Healey (6
> cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a copper sealing
> washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the later BJ8 which I believe
> is a taper thread seal with fast-on terminals.
>
>
>
> I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet that
> all pertinent information that is possible will be there - knowing Roger!
>
>
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria BC
>
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Brian
> Drab via Healeys
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>
>
> I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor quality
> of Healey brake light switches. At that time several people advised that a
> Harley brake light switch worked and worked better than the original.
>
> I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by subject
> rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know is either the
> Harley part number or the years and model Harley that the switches are
> from. Can anyone help.
>
> Brian Drab
>
> BJ8
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed May 19 18:19:30 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 20:19:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>

For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html

I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or 
lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> This 
> link--https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html--will 
> <https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html--will> 
> take you to the Speedway site and the Accel brake switch shown is 
> touted to be American-made and useable on Harleys, so perhaps this is 
> what the original poster is looking for.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Hi Brian:
>
>     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.? It
>     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
>     brake fluid.
>
>     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
>     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.? I do
>     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
>     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
>     the problem.
>
>     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
>     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
>     DM?s car, and all seems well.? The word is that the parts now
>     being supplied are better.? These switches came in Interpart boxes
>     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
>     not particularly expensive.
>
>     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
>     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
>     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
>     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
>     terminals.
>
>     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
>     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
>     knowing Roger!
>
>     Earl Kagna
>
>     Victoria BC
>
>     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
>     via Healeys
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
>     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
>     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
>     better than the original.
>
>     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
>     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
>     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
>     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
>
>     Brian Drab
>
>     BJ8
>
>
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>     	Virus-free. www.avast.com
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Best--Michael
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed May 19 19:09:02 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 21:09:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
 <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4rckD=xHkgBFLgtHgPTmwvWesXWN1O5KyzS0p4MBgkCA@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

Thanks for the correction, don't know that happened.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 8:19 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:
>
>
> https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html
>
> I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or
> lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> > This
> > link--
> https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html--will
> > <
> https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html--will>
>
> > take you to the Speedway site and the Accel brake switch shown is
> > touted to be American-made and useable on Harleys, so perhaps this is
> > what the original poster is looking for.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys
> > <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> >
> >     Hi Brian:
> >
> >     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It
> >     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
> >     brake fluid.
> >
> >     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
> >     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do
> >     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
> >     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
> >     the problem.
> >
> >     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
> >     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
> >     DM?s car, and all seems well.  The word is that the parts now
> >     being supplied are better.  These switches came in Interpart boxes
> >     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
> >     not particularly expensive.
> >
> >     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
> >     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
> >     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
> >     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
> >     terminals.
> >
> >     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
> >     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
> >     knowing Roger!
> >
> >     Earl Kagna
> >
> >     Victoria BC
> >
> >     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
> >
> >     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> >     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
> >     via Healeys
> >     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
> >     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
> >
> >     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
> >     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
> >     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
> >     better than the original.
> >
> >     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
> >     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
> >     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
> >     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
> >
> >     Brian Drab
> >
> >     BJ8
> >
> >
> >     <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> >
> >       Virus-free. www.avast.com
> >     <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> >
> >
> >
> >     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> >     _______________________________________________
> >     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> >     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
> >     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> >     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> >     Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> >     <
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Best--Michael
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Thu May 20 03:24:29 2021
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 05:24:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light Switch
In-Reply-To: <CACkEpkSj8vDU8y4intD0MfxZRKoUMv4h2Jjv0u0Q2ANOQt-cEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACkEpkSj8vDU8y4intD0MfxZRKoUMv4h2Jjv0u0Q2ANOQt-cEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C28DC4D-F774-4DFF-86E2-29E783C605EF@hxcore.ol>

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From rafaelabugattas at yahoo.es  Thu May 20 15:41:56 2021
From: rafaelabugattas at yahoo.es (Rafael Abugattas)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 21:41:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
References: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>


Hi all,

Last year I requestedyour help regarding a strange overdrive or slippage problem I have in my 1962Tricarb BT7. 

I received veryvaluable comments and suggestions but sadly the problem persists: Overdrivewould not activate under any circumstances and when the engine / transmissionis warm and we engage reverse, the engine revs but the car won?t move. 

There is slippagesomewhere in the transmission / clutch or overdrive. When the car is cold,reverse engages without any issues. This only happens in reverse gear after thecar has been driven a few miles and the engine and transmission are warm.Forward gears engage all the time without any issues.

The car has beenrecently restored. Before the restoration the overdrive was operational. Nowit?s not. 

The transmission andoverdrive have been taken apart and assembled twice looking for somethingvisually wrong. Everything seemed to be OK.

The clutch and platewere also removed for inspection. The clutch was recently redone, adjusted andtested.

A friend suggested weshould verify the oil pressure on the overdrive. On this link you will find acouple of videos of a test we have recently done with a manometer installed onthe overdrive to check the oil pressure at different RPM?s. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0

The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes upto 400 psi and drops as it goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200psi

In forward gears thecar runs fine; the problem that we need to solve is that the overdrive would notactivate(even though it is connected and everything seems visually OK) and theslippage we have when engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine /transmission is warm.

We are located inLima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not many experts in thisparticular area of expertise.

Any thoughts or suggestionsfrom you collective knowledge and wisdom on how to proceed will be muchappreciated. 

Thanks in advance!

Rafael

?

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 20 16:44:11 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 15:44:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
In-Reply-To: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <184527b9-f527-49c4-6355-24a6663079fd@comcast.net>

Strange case indeed. My guess--and it's only a guess--is that the cone 
clutch in the O/D is worn and slipping when the oil is hot. The cone 
clutch is a 'wet' type, and AFAIK new ones aren't available (DWM sells 
relined ones, with a core of course). When the O/D is not engaged, eight 
very strong springs hold the cone clutch together as a 'solid' unit, 
when you engage the O/D oil pressure--yours appears to be 
adequate--pushes a couple pistons that force the cone clutch apart and 
locks the sun gear, which starts overrunning of the output gearing 
(hence 'overdrive'). Since new clutches aren't available, yours may be 
original and not have sufficient material to fully engage the outer part 
(FWIW, I went through my BJ8's O/D and it still had sufficient material 
at 205K miles; I attribute this to my superior O/D operating technique ;)).

The other thing is the springs; I read somewhere--possibly in the shop 
manual--that these springs should ALWAYS be replaced when going through 
the O/D and, even though mine looked fine I bit the bullet and bought a 
new set. It's possible the springs weaken over time and become unable to 
keep the cone clutch engaged in all conditions (e.g. hot, slippery oil).

Again, this is just a semi-informed guess, but maybe someone can expand 
on it.

Bob


On 5/20/2021 2:41 PM, Rafael Abugattas via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Last year I requested your help regarding a strange overdrive or 
> slippage problem I have in my 1962 Tricarb BT7.
>
> I received very valuable comments and suggestions but sadly the 
> problem persists: Overdrive would not activate under any circumstances 
> and when the engine / transmission is warm and we engage reverse, the 
> engine revs but the car won?t move.
>
> There is slippage somewhere in the transmission / clutch or overdrive. 
> When the car is cold, reverse engages without any issues. This only 
> happens in reverse gear after the car has been driven a few miles and 
> the engine and transmission are warm. Forward gears engage all the 
> time without any issues.
>
> The car has been recently restored. Before the restoration the 
> overdrive was operational. Now it?s not.
>
> The transmission and overdrive have been taken apart and assembled 
> twice looking for something visually wrong. Everything seemed to be OK.
>
> The clutch and plate were also removed for inspection. The clutch was 
> recently redone, adjusted and tested.
>
> A friend suggested we should verify the oil pressure on the overdrive. 
> On this link you will find a couple of videos of a test we have 
> recently done with a manometer installed on the overdrive to check the 
> oil pressure at different RPM?s.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0 
> <https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0>
>
> The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes up to 400 psi and drops as it 
> goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200 psi
>
> In forward gears the car runs fine; the problem that we need to solve 
> is that the overdrive would not activate(even though it is connected 
> and everything seems visually OK) and the slippage we have when 
> engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine / transmission 
> is warm.
>
> We are located in Lima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not 
> many experts in this particular area of expertise.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions from you collective knowledge and wisdom 
> on how to proceed will be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Rafael
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu May 20 16:56:32 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 22:56:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
Message-ID: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave. Sure is one
way to solve the ground clearance problem.Does anyone know if the
donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
Thanks,Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at
LargeHavelock, NC USA
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu May 20 17:03:02 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 16:03:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
In-Reply-To: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <hdpdag5j4mqq1p0fuhbo0asmlotd025kcu@4ax.com>

Hola Rafael,

The possible good news is that if the overdrive worked before
restoration, whatever is wrong might be simple and easy to fix.

Here is a start:  With ignition on and overdrive dash switch on and
gearbox in neutral:  if you move the shift lever  to the right so you
can shift into third or fourth gear, can you hear a click from the
overdrive solenoid?  You should hear it.  Move to left and  it should
shut off.  Repeat this a couple of times to be sure.

No click suggests that at least one of the problems is that the
solenoid is not operating. This would keep the overdrive from
operating.  Time to replace the solenoid.   If you can hear the
clicking, then the shifting lever on the overdrive may not be adjusted
properly.  The shop manual is helpful here and there are some tricks
to try if they are needed.

It is possible to manually move the solenoid shifting lever while the
car's wheels are off the ground securely and safely, and the drive
train from engine to wheels is carefully brought up to speed in 3rd or
4th gear.  This should shift the overdrive in and out.  This is
dangerous and should be done by someone with experience and
understanding.  Rotating parts can catch clothing with disasterous
results.

There are many more diagnostics but I am not competent too describe or
to direct you in them.

-Roland

On Thu, 20 May 2021 21:41:56 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>
>Hi all,
>
>Last year I requestedyour help regarding a strange overdrive or slippage problem I have in my 1962Tricarb BT7. 
>
>I received veryvaluable comments and suggestions but sadly the problem persists: Overdrivewould not activate under any circumstances and when the engine / transmissionis warm and we engage reverse, the engine revs but the car won?t move. 
>
>There is slippagesomewhere in the transmission / clutch or overdrive. When the car is cold,reverse engages without any issues. This only happens in reverse gear after thecar has been driven a few miles and the engine and transmission are warm.Forward gears engage all the time without any issues.
>
>The car has beenrecently restored. Before the restoration the overdrive was operational. Nowit?s not. 
>
>The transmission andoverdrive have been taken apart and assembled twice looking for somethingvisually wrong. Everything seemed to be OK.
>
>The clutch and platewere also removed for inspection. The clutch was recently redone, adjusted andtested.
>
>A friend suggested weshould verify the oil pressure on the overdrive. On this link you will find acouple of videos of a test we have recently done with a manometer installed onthe overdrive to check the oil pressure at different RPM?s. 
>
>https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
>
>The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes upto 400 psi and drops as it goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200psi
>
>In forward gears thecar runs fine; the problem that we need to solve is that the overdrive would notactivate(even though it is connected and everything seems visually OK) and theslippage we have when engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine /transmission is warm.
>
>We are located inLima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not many experts in thisparticular area of expertise.
>
>Any thoughts or suggestionsfrom you collective knowledge and wisdom on how to proceed will be muchappreciated. 
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Rafael
>
>?

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu May 20 17:08:12 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 18:08:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>

I wonder what car show class will it be in?

Best--Michael Oritt



On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one
> way to solve the ground clearance problem.
> Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu May 20 18:08:32 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 00:08:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>,
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25070490F7C2F8B69A35AA12D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this to an Austin-Healey?

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
To: BJ8Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

I wonder what car show class will it be in?

Best--Michael Oritt



On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
Hello, Healeyphiles -

A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.
Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca580acab56ab46178fb208d91be44902%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571489551695382%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=t5A2brPse0TrdlnCfrdDsVVGxG0HxYvqrBtd50%2BJtdk%3D&reserved=0>
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca580acab56ab46178fb208d91be44902%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571489551695382%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=%2B8aoqakuzbnxB%2BkTLO2M4WaMxWYBOePZVpvpNmLuh1Q%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca580acab56ab46178fb208d91be44902%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571489551705374%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=sjILeyX0I5cIW94UJ%2Bljvn7sPoS3ZjQNe05xtGvVbLU%3D&reserved=0>

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca580acab56ab46178fb208d91be44902%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571489551705374%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=rgNUWYgMDWS8G2flC6ESkxpr6o0ENtOHBgntljoWxo8%3D&reserved=0>

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fmichael.oritt%40gmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca580acab56ab46178fb208d91be44902%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571489551715368%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=3btjcCSePY%2F7t%2FmzhI%2B%2Fsb2xz2yFhMFyqQ2DzPSY%2B6Y%3D&reserved=0>


--
Best--Michael

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu May 20 18:10:06 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 20:10:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FB7AB2B9-85D9-46C8-87D3-7B346A4874DB@aol.com>

Modified

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2021, at 7:09 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I wonder what car show class will it be in?
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>> 
>> A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.
>> Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May 20 18:15:27 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 17:15:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB25070490F7C2F8B69A35AA12D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB25070490F7C2F8B69A35AA12D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>

Desperate cry for attention is all I can figure. It /would/ go over big 
in the redneck, brodozer-beseiged area where I reside.

I'm hoping on hope the body is one of the plastic Healey 
knock-offs--Saxon, etc.--not a real Healey.

Bob


On 5/20/2021 5:08 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>
> I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this 
> to an Austin-Healey?
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Michael Oritt via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
> *To: *BJ8Healeys <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
>
> I wonder what car?show class will it be in?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
>     A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.? ?Sure
>     is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.
>
>     Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     HBJ8L/36666
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     Havelock, NC? USA
>
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu May 20 18:43:42 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 00:43:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB25070490F7C2F8B69A35AA12D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>,
 <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143969A6CA2382CAEA460F3A5299@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

How to turn a $70,000 dollar car into a $7,000 car...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2021 12:15 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

Desperate cry for attention is all I can figure. It would go over big in the redneck, brodozer-beseiged area where I reside.

I'm hoping on hope the body is one of the plastic Healey knock-offs--Saxon, etc.--not a real Healey.

Bob


On 5/20/2021 5:08 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:

I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this to an Austin-Healey?



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



From: Michael Oritt via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
To: BJ8Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider



I wonder what car show class will it be in?



Best--Michael Oritt







On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:

Hello, Healeyphiles -



A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.

Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?



Thanks,

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA


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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu May 20 18:55:37 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 00:55:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB25070490F7C2F8B69A35AA12D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>,
 <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507909A2ACB16532A08FD20D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Apparently the body is from a real Austin-Healey, not from a kit car. The only positive here is, as someone else on Facebook said, the fender spears are installed correctly.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: May 20, 2021 7:17 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

Desperate cry for attention is all I can figure. It would go over big in the redneck, brodozer-beseiged area where I reside.

I'm hoping on hope the body is one of the plastic Healey knock-offs--Saxon, etc.--not a real Healey.

Bob

On 5/20/2021 5:08 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this to an Austin-Healey?

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=04%7C01%7C%7Ca129effa60c544c58cbf08d91bede23a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637571530777266913%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=2zwJm9PcK0G4ZXHmASN3v2mVRSTDsmpjtm7qMS%2Bo5gE%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
To: BJ8Healeys<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

I wonder what car show class will it be in?

Best--Michael Oritt



On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
Hello, Healeyphiles -

A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.
Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA



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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu May 20 19:13:29 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 01:13:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
Message-ID: <1490091033.122390.1621559609681@mail.yahoo.com>

Steve /. ListersTo your question about the what this build started as, its hard to tell without more photos. I could not enlarge your photos? (a problem with my PC). Also this car may be a collection of parts from different models. Rarely does someone build a modified from a bone stock , well running BJ7 or BJ8 that is worth $50K. as is.
Folks will ask why would someone build something like this but it is a common topic in most all marque based groups. Change to the original has been a car issue and an expected happening for more than a 100 years.?
One of the cars in our garage is a Modified 100 and I have been asked "why" before.? Would suggest that folks take a ride in a non-stock car just to see/feel the differences and in many cases improvements. A V8 in a 2300 pound car will put a smile on many (most) faces. Put 600HP in one and you feel like you just took a ride on the best rollercoaster around.?
Hope all well at Conclave.Perry
-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 20, 2021 6:56 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

Hello, Healeyphiles -
A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.? ?Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
Thanks,Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? USA_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu May 20 20:01:36 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 02:01:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
Message-ID: <eb184867efcd379bbcae749671f7c0d48c97b2e8@webmail>

Perry, the photo of the car was not mine but was sent to me by someone
who was at Conclave. I wasn't. The external features of the car
(primarily the convertible windscreen) tells me the donor car was
either a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8 (lights and door handle). I am
interested in documenting the current status of ALL BJ8s that were
originally manufactured, so if this car left the factory as a BJ8, I
would like to know WHICH BJ8 it was. I'm hoping someone who saw the
car at Conclave might be able to provide more information about it,
and/or perhaps knows who the owner is and how to contact him/her.
Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC
USA

	-----------------------------------------From: healeyguy at aol.com
To: "sbyers at ec.rr.com"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Thursday May 20 2021 9:13:33PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

  Steve /. Listers To your question about the what this build started
as, its hard to tell without more photos. I could not enlarge your
photos (a problem with my PC). Also this car may be a collection of
parts from different models. Rarely does someone build a modified from
a bone stock , well running BJ7 or BJ8 that is worth $50K. as is. 
 Folks will ask why would someone build something like this but it is
a common topic in most all marque based groups. Change to the original
has been a car issue and an expected happening for more than a 100
years.  
 One of the cars in our garage is a Modified 100 and I have been asked
"why" before. Would suggest that folks take a ride in a non-stock car
just to see/feel the differences and in many cases improvements. A V8
in a 2300 pound car will put a smile on many (most) faces. Put 600HP
in one and you feel like you just took a ride on the best
rollercoaster around.  
 Hope all well at Conclave. Perry 
 -----Original Message-----
 From: BJ8Healeys 
 To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' 
 Sent: Thu, May 20, 2021 6:56 pm
 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

  Hello, Healeyphiles - 
 A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave. Sure is one
way to solve the ground clearance problem. Does anyone know if the
donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8? 
 Thanks, Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA   _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
[5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6]

Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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Links:
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu May 20 21:14:18 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 23:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
In-Reply-To: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <604018491.4470645.1621546916052.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <604018491.4470645.1621546916052@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ7ZDQJ0i80Y-KMDVMYgM32tu3AbmAe_7o=nLB3sae8cA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Rafael,
Bob and Roland have both given very good advice but I  feel a little more
diagnosis may help.
With the gearbox tunnel loose get the car hot enough that the reverse drive
problem is established.
Then remove the tunnel and then manually operate the overdrive valve by
pulling up on the lever on the side of the overdrive opposite the solenoid
several times.
Now remove the plug above the overdrive operating valve. Be careful as
there may be some residual pressure. Lift out the spring spring guide and
ball (use a magnet) then pull out the operating valve. This will ensure
that there is no oil pressure in the unit.
Now try reverse.
If the problem persists then the issue is mechanical and the suggestions
that others have made should be followed.

M

On Thu., May 20, 2021, 5:46 p.m. Rafael Abugattas via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Last year I requested your help regarding a strange overdrive or slippage
> problem I have in my 1962 Tricarb BT7.
>
> I received very valuable comments and suggestions but sadly the problem
> persists: Overdrive would not activate under any circumstances and when the
> engine / transmission is warm and we engage reverse, the engine revs but
> the car won?t move.
>
> There is slippage somewhere in the transmission / clutch or overdrive.
> When the car is cold, reverse engages without any issues. This only happens
> in reverse gear after the car has been driven a few miles and the engine
> and transmission are warm. Forward gears engage all the time without any
> issues.
>
> The car has been recently restored. Before the restoration the overdrive
> was operational. Now it?s not.
>
> The transmission and overdrive have been taken apart and assembled twice
> looking for something visually wrong. Everything seemed to be OK.
>
> The clutch and plate were also removed for inspection. The clutch was
> recently redone, adjusted and tested.
>
> A friend suggested we should verify the oil pressure on the overdrive. On
> this link you will find a couple of videos of a test we have recently done
> with a manometer installed on the overdrive to check the oil pressure at
> different RPM?s.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
>
> The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes up to 400 psi and drops as it goes
> to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200 psi
>
> In forward gears the car runs fine; the problem that we need to solve is
> that the overdrive would not activate(even though it is connected and
> everything seems visually OK) and the slippage we have when engaging
> reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine / transmission is warm.
>
> We are located in Lima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not many
> experts in this particular area of expertise.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions from you collective knowledge and wisdom on
> how to proceed will be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Rafael
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu May 20 21:22:43 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 03:22:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
Message-ID: <6edf5ffa50c01ea40c5ca965b8d0f66c689292ba@webmail>

Rafael-a few comments about your issues. I coming from a different
place by assuming that the cone clutch is ok.
First, what oil is in the gearbox and transmission?-only use 30W NON
detergent-all others will foam...especially with the addition of heat.
When the OD was rebuilt- there are two sets of springs of the 8...4
are 4-1/4" and 4 are 4-1/2" the longer springs must go to the outside
and the shorter to the inside of the cone structure. If the springs
are coil bound from misuse-replace them. If they are reversed the
pressure to hold the clutch in direct drive is not sufficient.
The overdrive must achieve at least 400lbs of pressure at all times in
use. The low numbers indicate an accumulator issue. O-rings or piston
rings worn or misplaced.
It is exteamely important that the car never goes into reverse with
the overdrive engaged. Make sure the lockout switch is working.
Be sure the two check balls are in proper place 1/4" and 5/16" do not
mix them up with each other.
Has your OD rebuilder done other Laycock overdrives? Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Rafael Abugattas via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday May 20 2021 2:47:20PM
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage

	Hi all, 

	Last year I requested your help regarding a strange overdrive or
slippage problem I have in my 1962 Tricarb BT7. 

	I received very valuable comments and suggestions but sadly the
problem persists: Overdrive would not activate under any circumstances
and when the engine / transmission is warm and we engage reverse, the
engine revs but the car won?t move. 

	There is slippage somewhere in the transmission / clutch or
overdrive. When the car is cold, reverse engages without any issues.
This only happens in reverse gear after the car has been driven a few
miles and the engine and transmission are warm. Forward gears engage
all the time without any issues. 

	The car has been recently restored. Before the restoration the
overdrive was operational. Now it?s not. 

	The transmission and overdrive have been taken apart and assembled
twice looking for something visually wrong. Everything seemed to be
OK. 

	The clutch and plate were also removed for inspection. The clutch was
recently redone, adjusted and tested. 

	A friend suggested we should verify the oil pressure on the
overdrive. On this link you will find a couple of videos of a test we
have recently done with a manometer installed on the overdrive to
check the oil pressure at different RPM?s. 

	
[1]https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[2] 

	The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes up to 400 psi and drops as it
goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200 psi 

	In forward gears the car runs fine; the problem that we need to solve
is that the overdrive would not activate(even though it is connected
and everything seems visually OK) and the slippage we have when
engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine / transmission
is warm. 

	We are located in Lima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not
many experts in this particular area of expertise. 

	Any thoughts or suggestions from you collective knowledge and wisdom
on how to proceed will be much appreciated. 

	Thanks in advance! 

	  Rafael 

  

Links:
------
[1]
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[2]
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu May 20 22:34:15 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 21:34:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88p0W6UrrK2ZX9wjvar7xcQmgkXVJX1nyeTxPBmCvoEfQ@mail.gmail.com>

Amazing craftsmanship

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, May 20, 2021, 3:57 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one
> way to solve the ground clearance problem.
> Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu May 20 22:34:31 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 21:34:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-0QMtSW5mw=jdK6FjgrKaSsoHxVD472B6+xOcyzDhjug@mail.gmail.com>

Modified

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, May 20, 2021, 4:09 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I wonder what car show class will it be in?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>>
>> A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one
>> way to solve the ground clearance problem.
>> Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 20 22:50:24 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 20 May 2021 21:50:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507909A2ACB16532A08FD20D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507909A2ACB16532A08FD20D1299@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <ADCD7B70-B1ED-4C6B-9213-66A813274F9F@sbcglobal.net>

This car was an amazing piece of work. They have owned the car like it is for almost 40 years.  They use it as a family form off roads. 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2021, at 5:56 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Apparently the body is from a real Austin-Healey, not from a kit car. The only positive here is, as someone else on Facebook said, the fender spears are installed correctly.
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: May 20, 2021 7:17 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
>  
> Desperate cry for attention is all I can figure. It would go over big in the redneck, brodozer-beseiged area where I reside.
> 
> I'm hoping on hope the body is one of the plastic Healey knock-offs--Saxon, etc.--not a real Healey.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 5/20/2021 5:08 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
> I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this to an Austin-Healey?
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys
> Sent: May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
> To: BJ8Healeys
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
>  
> I wonder what car show class will it be in?
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt
>  
>  
>  
> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>  
> A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.
> Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?
>  
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC  USA
>  
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Fri May 21 01:21:48 2021
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (greylinn at ozemail.com.au)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 17:21:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Toe in on 100
Message-ID: <021801d74e11$f722e9f0$e568bdd0$@ozemail.com.au>

G'day list

 

My 100 has a bit of negative camber on the front end (I'm not sure of the
exact amount but probably no more than 1 deg) I'm looking at buying new
tyres & want to get the tracking checked - there's slight evidence of
feathering on the outside of one tyre. Does negative camber affect the
amount of toe in required? I currently have Kumho KH18 185/65 15 tyres.

 

Cheers

 

Peter Linn

Brisbane

BN1 Holden V6

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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Fri May 21 01:56:34 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 08:56:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
In-Reply-To: <6edf5ffa50c01ea40c5ca965b8d0f66c689292ba@webmail>
References: <6edf5ffa50c01ea40c5ca965b8d0f66c689292ba@webmail>
Message-ID: <1CE766B5-46C3-4110-B150-2DC6E0A49761@gmail.com>

Team.
Coming at this from a different angle, the OP states that the car doesn?t move in reverse. This is usually a problem with the uni-directional (sprag) clutch.  Could it be that O/d is permanently engaged somehow rather than failing to engage?
Just a SWAG.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 21 May 2021, at 04:23, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Rafael-a few comments about your issues. I coming from a different place by assuming that the cone clutch is ok.
> 
> First, what oil is in the gearbox and transmission?-only use 30W NON detergent-all others will foam...especially with the addition of heat.
> 
> When the OD was rebuilt- there are two sets of springs of the 8...4 are 4-1/4" and 4 are 4-1/2" the longer springs must go to the outside and the shorter to the inside of the cone structure. If the springs are coil bound from misuse-replace them. If they are reversed the pressure to hold the clutch in direct drive is not sufficient.
> 
> The overdrive must achieve at least 400lbs of pressure at all times in use. The low numbers indicate an accumulator issue. O-rings or piston rings worn or misplaced.
> 
> It is exteamely important that the car never goes into reverse with the overdrive engaged.  Make sure the lockout switch is working.
> 
> Be sure the two check balls are in proper place 1/4" and 5/16" do not mix them up with each other.
> 
> Has your OD rebuilder done other Laycock overdrives? Hank
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Rafael Abugattas via Healeys" 
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc: 
> Sent: Thursday May 20 2021 2:47:20PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Last year I requested your help regarding a strange overdrive or slippage problem I have in my 1962 Tricarb BT7.
> 
> I received very valuable comments and suggestions but sadly the problem persists: Overdrive would not activate under any circumstances and when the engine / transmission is warm and we engage reverse, the engine revs but the car won?t move.
> 
> There is slippage somewhere in the transmission / clutch or overdrive. When the car is cold, reverse engages without any issues. This only happens in reverse gear after the car has been driven a few miles and the engine and transmission are warm. Forward gears engage all the time without any issues.
> 
> The car has been recently restored. Before the restoration the overdrive was operational. Now it?s not.
> 
> The transmission and overdrive have been taken apart and assembled twice looking for something visually wrong. Everything seemed to be OK.
> 
> The clutch and plate were also removed for inspection. The clutch was recently redone, adjusted and tested.
> 
> A friend suggested we should verify the oil pressure on the overdrive. On this link you will find a couple of videos of a test we have recently done with a manometer installed on the overdrive to check the oil pressure at different RPM?s.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
> 
> The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes up to 400 psi and drops as it goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200 psi
> 
> In forward gears the car runs fine; the problem that we need to solve is that the overdrive would not activate(even though it is connected and everything seems visually OK) and the slippage we have when engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine / transmission is warm.
> 
> We are located in Lima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not many experts in this particular area of expertise.
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions from you collective knowledge and wisdom on how to proceed will be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Rafael
> 
>  
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri May 21 08:46:41 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 14:46:41 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
References: <0f3d86a6-0463-6901-1f70-bfb6a37fd6ea@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b539c51a-5ac3-4967-a00f-7aba4f5849b2@me.com>

The car was done like this over 45 years ago and is used quite often on a farm/ranch. No cry for attention and the owner was and is, a really nice guy. He hesitated to bring it as he didn't know how he would be received. Everyone received him well at Conclave and were all very glad he came.?
???It's really an amazing engineering job, runs like the wind and when I post the video I did for Conclave, you will see it on the gymkhana course. I agree, not everyone's cup of tea, but an amazing build and is used all the time. Purpose built, just done really well.
Steven Kingsbury?

On May 20, 2021 at 5:17 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


Desperate cry for attention is all I can figure. It would go over big in the redneck, brodozer-beseiged area where I reside.

I'm hoping on hope the body is one of the plastic Healey knock-offs--Saxon, etc.--not a real Healey.

Bob



On 5/20/2021 5:08 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:


I wonder what could possibly possess someone to do something like this to an Austin-Healey?

?

Jean

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys
Sent: May 20, 2021 6:09 PM
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

?

I wonder what car?show class will it be in?

?

Best--Michael Oritt

?

?

?

On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

Hello, Healeyphiles -

?

A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.? ?Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.

Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?

?

Thanks,

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC? USA





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri May 21 11:20:02 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 17:20:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage
Message-ID: <25ff6bf5d61840f13db53fb4c332bde412c78eba@webmail>

Rafael- Unfortunately, I think you need to dismantle the OD for a
third time. Attached is a chart showing the cause for "clutch slip in
reverse" from the workshop book pg. G/6.
I feel very strongly that you have reversed, or damaged, the 8 clutch
springs surrounding the cone clutch-4 short and 4 long. You must
follow the procedure as described on pg. G/10 for assembly of the
springs. If that is not the issue than only hydraulic problems exist,
but your reverse problems sounds like a mechanical issue. 
While apart, clean the operating valve assembly, and check to be sure
that the ball #18 under the plunger has not been reversed with the #58
ball in the pump. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bluehealey" 
To: "Autox Healeys"
Cc: "Rafael Abugattas"
Sent: Friday May 21 2021 12:56:37AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage

 Team. Coming at this from a different angle, the OP states that the
car doesn?t move in reverse. This is usually a problem with the
uni-directional (sprag) clutch. Could it be that O/d is permanently
engaged somehow rather than failing to engage? Just a SWAG.

Alan - from my iPad 
On 21 May 2021, at 04:23, Henry G Leach via Healeys  wrote:

   ?Rafael-a few comments about your issues. I coming from a
different place by assuming that the cone clutch is ok. 
 First, what oil is in the gearbox and transmission?-only use 30W NON
detergent-all others will foam...especially with the addition of heat.

 When the OD was rebuilt- there are two sets of springs of the 8...4
are 4-1/4" and 4 are 4-1/2" the longer springs must go to the outside
and the shorter to the inside of the cone structure. If the springs
are coil bound from misuse-replace them. If they are reversed the
pressure to hold the clutch in direct drive is not sufficient. 
 The overdrive must achieve at least 400lbs of pressure at all times
in use. The low numbers indicate an accumulator issue. O-rings or
piston rings worn or misplaced. 
 It is exteamely important that the car never goes into reverse with
the overdrive engaged. Make sure the lockout switch is working. 
 Be sure the two check balls are in proper place 1/4" and 5/16" do not
mix them up with each other. 
 Has your OD rebuilder done other Laycock overdrives? Hank 

	----------------------------------------- From: "Rafael Abugattas via
Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Thursday May 20 2021 2:47:20PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Transmission / Overdrive or Clutch slippage

	Hi all, 

	Last year I requested your help regarding a strange overdrive or
slippage problem I have in my 1962 Tricarb BT7. 

	I received very valuable comments and suggestions but sadly the
problem persists: Overdrive would not activate under any circumstances
and when the engine / transmission is warm and we engage reverse, the
engine revs but the car won?t move. 

	There is slippage somewhere in the transmission / clutch or
overdrive. When the car is cold, reverse engages without any issues.
This only happens in reverse gear after the car has been driven a few
miles and the engine and transmission are warm. Forward gears engage
all the time without any issues. 

	The car has been recently restored. Before the restoration the
overdrive was operational. Now it?s not. 

	The transmission and overdrive have been taken apart and assembled
twice looking for something visually wrong. Everything seemed to be
OK. 

	The clutch and plate were also removed for inspection. The clutch was
recently redone, adjusted and tested. 

	A friend suggested we should verify the oil pressure on the
overdrive. On this link you will find a couple of videos of a test we
have recently done with a manometer installed on the overdrive to
check the oil pressure at different RPM?s. 

	  [1]
[2]https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[3] 

	The pressure on 3rd and 4th gears goes up to 400 psi and drops as it
goes to lower gears. At idle is between 150 to 200 psi 

	In forward gears the car runs fine; the problem that we need to solve
is that the overdrive would not activate(even though it is connected
and everything seems visually OK) and the slippage we have when
engaging reverse (the car won?t move) when the engine / transmission
is warm. 

	We are located in Lima ? Peru and as you may imagine, there are not
many experts in this particular area of expertise. 

	Any thoughts or suggestions from you collective knowledge and wisdom
on how to proceed will be much appreciated. 

	Thanks in advance! 

	Rafael 

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Links:
------
[1]
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[2]
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[3]
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5p8kqz6v6yduyt/AADizyVMyBKPozy284B-udA4a?dl=0
[4] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[6] http://autox.team.net/archive
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Fri May 21 16:06:35 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 15:06:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-0QMtSW5mw=jdK6FjgrKaSsoHxVD472B6+xOcyzDhjug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <161b4a5b472e0907d4218f99405aafee37e15829@webmail>
 <CAPTa0B5Z9d7eX6pGxse0fU9NgJN2U0J4e_c1E8TUo4uxomL13g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-0QMtSW5mw=jdK6FjgrKaSsoHxVD472B6+xOcyzDhjug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004401d74e8d$9102e400$b308ac00$@roadrunner.com>

We were laughing that there are modified Healeys and then there are MODIFIED Healeys.  This is definitely the latter!

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2021 9:35 PM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Hi-Rider

 

Modified

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

 

On Thu, May 20, 2021, 4:09 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I wonder what car show class will it be in?

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

 

 

On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 5:56 PM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com> > wrote:

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

A friend sent me the attached photo of a car at Conclave.   Sure is one way to solve the ground clearance problem.

Does anyone know if the donor car was a BJ7 or a Phase 1 BJ8?

 

Thanks,

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

_______________________________________________
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-- 

Best--Michael

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri May 21 16:22:34 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 17:22:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100 at Barber Motorsports Museum
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5xp7h97v7X+_e-iZ25z4WwVB_PfNoiPMEFyGhNFbA=hA@mail.gmail.com>

After racing today I toured the Barber Motorsports Museum (
https://www.barbermuseum.org/), an unbelievable collection of
motorcycles--supposedly 1600--with almost 1000 on display.  There is also a
sub-collection of Lotus cars--maybe 100--of all types.  Lastly there is a
small display of 25-30 production British cars, including a very nice BN1
with a suitably bumpy windshield-to-scuttle seal.
-- 
Best--Michael Oritt
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Sat May 22 07:08:49 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 14:08:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust manifold
Message-ID: <d7bb3d55-f265-dbcf-5c4b-6555e5131ccc@summaventures.com>

Does anyone on the list know if a tubular manifold like that on the
tri-carb was ever suppled or availabled for the 59 BT7?

Thanks,


Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From manifold at telus.net  Sat May 22 09:44:39 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 08:44:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <d7bb3d55-f265-dbcf-5c4b-6555e5131ccc@summaventures.com>
References: <d7bb3d55-f265-dbcf-5c4b-6555e5131ccc@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <ACABC739-F025-43A0-BBA7-CAC6FCBE94F1@hxcore.ol>

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Sat May 22 12:13:56 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 19:13:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <75442837-85ED-486E-A7F7-15D0A31FC961@hxcore.ol>
References: <d7bb3d55-f265-dbcf-5c4b-6555e5131ccc@summaventures.com>
 <ACABC739-F025-43A0-BBA7-CAC6FCBE94F1@hxcore.ol>
 <1609f151-a628-92a8-b2c6-749c0d7eedba@summaventures.com>
 <75442837-85ED-486E-A7F7-15D0A31FC961@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <b6c442ed-ed38-51c2-cb82-00c6bb7b14ac@summaventures.com>

Harold,

One of the 100/6 rally cars (PMO 203) was upgraded to 3000 spec over a
number of events, and was in effect the works mule. According to Bill
Price it would have been rallied as 3000 if it met the 3000 spec - which
it did.

The last owner of which I have record (Bobby Parkes) told me that it was
sold to him from the works with a triple-carb setup. What I don't know
for sure -and can't ask him - is what the exhaust would have been like,
not just the manifold.

My guess is that the manifold would probably have been very similar to
that on the standard triple carb Mk IIs. After all evolution from
rallying to road cars was what the competitions dept was all about.

Cheers,

Peter

On 22/05/2021 17:51, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Peter,
> 
> ?
> 
> I am not exactly saying ?not?. My understanding of the history of the 3
> carb Mk ll is the rally rules of the day changed and rally cars couldn?t
> have more carburetors than those that came off the production line
> either as standard or an option. I do know the pre-Mk ll rally cars had
> three carburetors but I don?t know much about the details of the set up.
> It is possible the Mk ll exhaust was used with a 3 carb set up on the
> 1959 rally cars but was not sold to the general public.
> 
> ?
> 
> We will need one of the Healey historical experts to weigh in on what
> was done in 1959.
> 
> ?
> 
> Harold
> 
> ?
> 
> *From: *Peter Dzwig <mailto:pdzwig at summaventures.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, May 22, 2021 8:58 AM
> *To: *Harold Manifold <mailto:manifold at telus.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Exhaust manifold
> 
> ?
> 
> Harold,
> 
> ?
> 
> thanks for that.
> 
> ?
> 
> I should has said: "available in period for..." But I guess you are
> 
> saying not.
> 
> ?
> 
> Peter
> 
> ?
> 
> On 22/05/2021 16:44, Harold Manifold wrote:
> 
>> Peter,
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Is this the exhaust you would like to fit to a Mk l BT7? As far as I am
> 
>> aware the location of the mounting studs in the cylinder head did not
> 
>> change between the Mk l and Mk ll BT7 but other experts may know
> 
>> definitively. I doubt the Mk ll exhaust was ever supplied with the 2 HD6
> 
>> carburetors on the Mk l but may have been part of a 3 carburetor
> 
>> arrangement for the works rally cars.
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Harold
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> *From: *Peter Dzwig via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
>> *Sent: *Saturday, May 22, 2021 6:09 AM
> 
>> *To: *healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Exhaust manifold
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Does anyone on the list know if a tubular manifold like that on the
> 
>>
> 
>> tri-carb was ever suppled or availabled for the 59 BT7?
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Thanks,
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Peter
> 
>>
> 
>> --
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> 
>>
> 
>> _______________________________________________
> 
>>
> 
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
>>
> 
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> 
>>
> 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
>> ?
> 
>>
> 
> ?
> 
> -- 
> 
> ?
> 
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> 
> ?
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May 22 15:22:12 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 14:22:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
Message-ID: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>

H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot and
steM is coming out of the overflow tube?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From rjhco at att.net  Sat May 22 15:34:18 2021
From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 16:34:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 3.909 ring and pinion
References: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317@att.net>

Anyone have a spare 3.909 ring gear and pinion left over from a 3.54 swap?

I chipped a tooth on mine....

Best regards,
Jim

From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sat May 22 15:46:57 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 17:46:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3.909 ring and pinion
In-Reply-To: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317@att.net>
References: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317@att.net>
Message-ID: <6FD08499-4702-4F1C-ACC1-7BA8ED082376@gmail.com>

I do.

> On May 22, 2021, at 17:36, Richard J. Hockert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Anyone have a spare 3.909 ring gear and pinion left over from a 3.54 swap?
> 
> I chipped a tooth on mine....
> 
> Best regards,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> 

From warthodson at aol.com  Sat May 22 16:50:13 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 22:50:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1746085114.2543299.1621723813032@mail.yahoo.com>

If you do not want to get scalded, you have to wait until the temp. of the antifreeze/water mixture is below its boiling point at atmospheric pressure. If you do not know what that is, I would wait until the fluid temperature is below 212 degrees as indicated on your water temp gauge.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 22, 2021 4:22 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap

H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot and steM is coming out of the overflow tube?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat May 22 16:55:16 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 17:55:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <1746085114.2543299.1621723813032@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1746085114.2543299.1621723813032@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7hevPtDQd+eyjC-PddsSWFR6GmFdoewJBqSzC0iaN8RA@mail.gmail.com>

...and qhen you doopen it do so slowly with a rag.

Best-Michael Oritt

On Sat, May 22, 2021, 5:51 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> If you do not want to get scalded, you have to wait until the temp. of the
> antifreeze/water mixture is below its boiling point at atmospheric
> pressure. If you do not know what that is, I would wait until the fluid
> temperature is below 212 degrees as indicated on your water temp gauge.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 22, 2021 4:22 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
>
> H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot
> and steM is coming out of the overflow tube?
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat May 22 17:06:20 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 23:06:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7hevPtDQd+eyjC-PddsSWFR6GmFdoewJBqSzC0iaN8RA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1746085114.2543299.1621723813032@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAPTa0B7hevPtDQd+eyjC-PddsSWFR6GmFdoewJBqSzC0iaN8RA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11434473A58E0C7EE27427C0A5289@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Use a rag and turn it to the first stop. If there is still pressure that will allow it to vent before you remove the cap. Don?t remove it until it stops venting.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2021 10:55 PM
To: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator cap

...and qhen you doopen it do so slowly with a rag.

Best-Michael Oritt

On Sat, May 22, 2021, 5:51 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
If you do not want to get scalded, you have to wait until the temp. of the antifreeze/water mixture is below its boiling point at atmospheric pressure. If you do not know what that is, I would wait until the fluid temperature is below 212 degrees as indicated on your water temp gauge.
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Sat, May 22, 2021 4:22 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap

H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot and steM is coming out of the overflow tube?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May 22 17:24:16 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 16:24:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8813uYq8kEPGr1rF_R1N8TgN5csLrdU+nnKQD_sGweBog@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks everyone. Gave man and machine a 40 min rest.  Both doing better.
Cheers
1400 of 2500 mile rt to conclave

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, May 22, 2021, 2:22 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot
> and steM is coming out of the overflow tube?
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat May 22 19:45:04 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2021 21:45:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3.909 ring and pinion
In-Reply-To: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317@att.net>
References: <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317.ref@att.net>
 <B2E1E25E-D06C-46FA-8CC4-AE29546E4317@att.net>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwEKM_mbUTd3PnKZXbw1HvW7_NXXu+VzDOh64RrrQ7FjMg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Jim (and others who might be interested):

I have all the choices for you: (1) a fully made up rear end with original
gears; (2) the 3.9 gears removed when I did the 3.54 swap; and (3) a new in
the box 3.54 gear set.

See attached photos. I can take detailed pictures is anyone is interested.

On Sat, May 22, 2021, 5:36 PM Richard J. Hockert via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone have a spare 3.909 ring gear and pinion left over from a 3.54 swap?
>
> I chipped a tooth on mine....
>
> Best regards,
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun May 23 07:30:07 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 13:30:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7hevPtDQd+eyjC-PddsSWFR6GmFdoewJBqSzC0iaN8RA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88jkXFHa57yJkngvjhtizGE4bFDdOAcUQhyBGyjwHrw2g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1746085114.2543299.1621723813032@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7hevPtDQd+eyjC-PddsSWFR6GmFdoewJBqSzC0iaN8RA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <948567317.765481.1621776607344@mail.yahoo.com>

Better yet . ? ?. .. . ?.Have someone else doopen it do so slowly with a rag. ? ?:)


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 22, 2021 6:55 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator cap

...and qhen you doopen it do so slowly with a rag.?
Best-Michael Oritt
On Sat, May 22, 2021, 5:51 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

If you do not want to get scalded, you have to wait until the temp. of the antifreeze/water mixture is below its boiling point at atmospheric pressure. If you do not know what that is, I would wait until the fluid temperature is below 212 degrees as indicated on your water temp gauge.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 22, 2021 4:22 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cap

H0w long do have to wait to open my radiator cap when the engine is hot and steM is coming out of the overflow tube?

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net

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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun May 23 10:25:03 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 16:25:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Distys for sale
References: <573203940.805531.1621787103410.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <573203940.805531.1621787103410@mail.yahoo.com>

3 of 'em! ?All DM6A. ?One appears to be complete but nasty. ?The other two incomplete, one with bent shaft. ?I guess for parts. ?Thinning my inventory. ?Make me an offer for the lot. ?Plus shipping from 23602.Keith
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Sun May 23 19:45:32 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 01:45:32 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
Message-ID: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>

???So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.


???https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik?


Steven Kingsbury
BN1
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun May 23 20:08:19 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:08:19 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
In-Reply-To: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
References: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
Message-ID: <007a01d75041$ab273a10$0175ae30$@tpg.com.au>

Thank you Steven

 

I will send out to our members with the monthly digital magazine.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
Sent: Monday, 24 May 2021 11:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake

 

   So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.

 

   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik 

 

Steven Kingsbury

BN1

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun May 23 21:45:51 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 20:45:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
In-Reply-To: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
References: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
Message-ID: <b98maglivd03r7i1b9igc0ods45o3sifl9@4ax.com>

Thank you, Steven.  It is a great film to see.  Great fun.

-Roland

On Mon, 24 May 2021 01:45:32 -0000, you wrote:

>???So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.
>
>
>???https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik?
>
>
>Steven Kingsbury
>BN1

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun May 23 22:32:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 21:32:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT]HWY395 Redux
Message-ID: <536dd8f7-29a6-d02c-89e5-5c09acc452e5@comcast.net>

Given the recent discussion on Hwy 395 as a suitable course to Conclave 
I (re-)found this site I'd bookmarked a while ago. Road looks to be 
paved; looks like it would be an interesting day/side trip.

https://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/california-ghost-town-tiktok-underwood-cerro-gordo-15970036.php?IPID=SFGate-HP-CP-Spotlight

From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Sun May 23 23:21:54 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 05:21:54 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
References: <b98maglivd03r7i1b9igc0ods45o3sifl9@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <8d7244f0-e64b-4371-8902-0f691a233c0a@me.com>

Thank you! And yes, it was a fun time!!
Steven

On May 23, 2021 at 8:45 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:


Thank you, Steven. It is a great film to see. Great fun.

-Roland

On Mon, 24 May 2021 01:45:32 -0000, you wrote:


???So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.




???https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik?




Steven Kingsbury
BN1

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Sun May 23 23:22:52 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 05:22:52 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
References: <007a01d75041$ab273a10$0175ae30$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <d764574b-0df9-4730-a27a-b176b2a4af56@me.com>

Share away and you're welcome!
S

On May 23, 2021 at 7:08 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:



Thank you Steven

?

I will send out to our members with the monthly digital magazine.

?

Best wishes

?

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

?

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
Sent: Monday, 24 May 2021 11:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake

?

???So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.

?

???https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik?

?

Steven Kingsbury

BN1
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon May 24 05:05:25 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 07:05:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
In-Reply-To: <d764574b-0df9-4730-a27a-b176b2a4af56@me.com>
References: <007a01d75041$ab273a10$0175ae30$@tpg.com.au>
 <d764574b-0df9-4730-a27a-b176b2a4af56@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcf+mHsR_qbHf_KhVvBhSw5c3Q-btJqFbgNxzh3BPwBNg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Steven from the East Coasters that didn't have an opportunity to
attend. Shared on the Austin-Healey Club of New England's FB and YouTube
pages. Great video and congrats  to the Conclave committee for pulling off
this event in very trying circumstances.

Rick Neville
President, Austin-Healey Club of New England

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 1:24 AM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Share away and you're welcome!
> S
>
> On May 23, 2021 at 7:08 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> Thank you Steven
>
>
>
> I will send out to our members with the monthly digital magazine.
>
>
>
> Best wishes
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Steven
> Kingsbury via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, 24 May 2021 11:46 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
>
>
>
>    So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a
> nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021.
> It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.
>
>
>
>    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik
>
>
>
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> BN1
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May 24 07:05:17 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:05:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
In-Reply-To: <d764574b-0df9-4730-a27a-b176b2a4af56@me.com>
References: <d764574b-0df9-4730-a27a-b176b2a4af56@me.com>
Message-ID: <8D1A06E4-6B4C-48F5-BB47-F856E0472E7E@aol.com>

Steven
Thank you Sir for sharing your video with us. I saw many familiar faces and cars that brought back memories of events long ago. Excellent videography and editing. 
Aloha
Perry and Kimberley

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 24, 2021, at 1:24 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Share away and you're welcome!
> S
>> 
> 
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From schottc at knology.net  Mon May 24 07:17:01 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:17:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Hub Extensions
In-Reply-To: <007a01d75041$ab273a10$0175ae30$@tpg.com.au>
References: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
 <007a01d75041$ab273a10$0175ae30$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <1258978091.4220731.1621862221467.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I have brand new R/H and L/H hub extensions for wire wheels on BN1 221536 to BJ8 26704 AH's (Moss # 031-290 & 031-365). The pair for $140 plus shipping. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> 
To: "Steven Kingsbury" <airtightproductions at icloud.com>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2021 9:08:19 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake 



Thank you Steven 



I will send out to our members with the monthly digital magazine. 



Best wishes 



Patrick Quinn 

Blue Mountains, Australia 




From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, 24 May 2021 11:46 AM 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake 





So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video. 





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik 





Steven Kingsbury 


BN1 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon May 24 07:46:44 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:46:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2021
References: <000001d750a3$3c525900$b4f70b00$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000001d750a3$3c525900$b4f70b00$@verizon.net>



For those of you that may want to view Steven Kingsbury's terrific video of
the 2021 Conclave I have posted it on my site on the Videos Page. All links
and items are now up to date.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon May 24 08:15:24 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 14:15:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake
In-Reply-To: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
References: <f30b37ef-5ee8-41e3-b712-9a3ea59cb54c@me.com>
Message-ID: <1496165327.3276706.1621865724827@mail.yahoo.com>

Steven,?Thanks for sharing your very well produced Conclave 2021 video. I wish I was able to attend!Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, May 23, 2021 8:45 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Video of Conclave 2021 at Big Bear Lake

???So for those of you who attended and those of you who didn't, here's a nice little video I put together to show you what went on at Conclave 2021. It was a great event and I hope you enjoy the video.
???https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=invCmaQmWik?
Steven KingsburyBN1_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon May 24 08:28:04 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 07:28:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>

My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 33
psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.  I then
lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and all
tires at 25 psi.
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon May 24 09:20:01 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 15:20:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model !!!!!! LOL!

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: richard mayor<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
To: Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.  I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and all tires at 25 psi.


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 24 09:36:42 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 08:36:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>

I for one can't think of an explanation for this startling phenomenon. 
Obviously, the ambient air pressure is less at altitude--known as 
'adiabatic lapse rate' to nerds and pilots--which, theoretically could 
cause the tires to expand, increasing their volume and lowering the 
pressure (according to the Ideal Gas Law). But, I doubt steel-belted 
radial tires expand or contract much, but air pressure in fixed volume 
goes up about 1psi per 10degF IIRC.

Was there a 40degF difference in temperature between Portland and Big 
Bear (California has been pretty warm the last few weeks, which I can 
attest to since our A/C is on the fritz)? Also, temps vary when tires 
are warmed by the sun or friction with the road, so if I can't check 
pressure completely in the shade I'll under-fill the tires in the sun by 
half a degree. So, my guess is a significant difference in air temps, 
and asphalt absorbs a lot of heat which gets transferred to the tires 
(Portland = (often) cloudy and cool; SoCal = (often) sunny and hot).


On 5/24/2021 8:20 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>
> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting 
> pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model 
> !!!!!! LOL!
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *richard mayor <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
> *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>
> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 
> 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.? 
> I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>
> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and 
> all tires at 25 psi.
>
>

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 24 10:05:15 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:05:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <cf2ef948-707e-036d-574d-5e205519f974@earthlink.net>

Atmospheric pressure at sea level, 59 degF is 14.7 psia.? At 6,700 ft 
and 59 degF, the pressure is 11.47 psia.? If the tire gage is measuring 
gauge pressure, the delta between the pressure in the tire and 
atmospheric pressure, the change in atmospheric would account for most 
of the difference seen.? But I have no idea if the tire gauge used works 
that way or not.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/24/21 11:36 AM, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
> I for one can't think of an explanation for this startling phenomenon. 
> Obviously, the ambient air pressure is less at altitude--known as 
> 'adiabatic lapse rate' to nerds and pilots--which, theoretically could 
> cause the tires to expand, increasing their volume and lowering the 
> pressure (according to the Ideal Gas Law). But, I doubt steel-belted 
> radial tires expand or contract much, but air pressure in fixed volume 
> goes up about 1psi per 10degF IIRC.
>
> Was there a 40degF difference in temperature between Portland and Big 
> Bear (California has been pretty warm the last few weeks, which I can 
> attest to since our A/C is on the fritz)? Also, temps vary when tires 
> are warmed by the sun or friction with the road, so if I can't check 
> pressure completely in the shade I'll under-fill the tires in the sun 
> by half a degree. So, my guess is a significant difference in air 
> temps, and asphalt absorbs a lot of heat which gets transferred to the 
> tires (Portland = (often) cloudy and cool; SoCal = (often) sunny and hot).
>
>
> On 5/24/2021 8:20 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting 
>> pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model 
>> !!!!!! LOL!
>>
>> Jean
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>> Windows 10
>>
>> *From: *richard mayor <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent: *May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
>> *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>>
>> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, 
>> to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea 
>> level.? I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>>
>> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and 
>> all tires at 25 psi.
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon May 24 10:07:00 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:07:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <khjnagtunv6povor8vapkfdat99qb82olt@4ax.com>

tire gauges compare the pressure inside the tire with the pressure
outside.  Other things being equal, the higher the elevation the lower
the barometric pressure, and thus the higher the pressure inside the
tire will appear.  If you could compare the tire pressure to standard
atmospheric pressure it would probably read the same in Big Bear and
Portland, ignoring any minor expansion of the tire.

-Roland

On Mon, 24 May 2021 07:28:04 -0700, you wrote:

>My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 33
>psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.  I then
>lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and all
>tires at 25 psi.

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 24 10:16:09 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:16:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <cf2ef948-707e-036d-574d-5e205519f974@earthlink.net>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>
 <cf2ef948-707e-036d-574d-5e205519f974@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <3fe801aa-1279-75be-2757-9f1adf0e7427@comcast.net>

Interesting point. I'm familiar with three types of tire pressure 
gauges: 1) the 'pencil' type with a sliding 'ruler', 2) the analog type 
which usually use a Bourdon tube (used in our 'safety' gauges) and 3) 
digital.

I can't imagine ambient pressure affecting the pencil/slider type; a 
Bourdon tube could be slightly affected by temperature I suppose, and 
the digital gauges usually use a pressure/load sensor (like digital 
scales) and I've not noticed a port to compare with ambient. So, I'm 
gonna go out on a limb and say gauges measure absolute--not 
differential--pressure so the ambient/tire delta is a non-factor (but I 
have no proof).


On 5/24/2021 9:05 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Atmospheric pressure at sea level, 59 degF is 14.7 psia.? At 6,700 ft 
> and 59 degF, the pressure is 11.47 psia.? If the tire gage is 
> measuring gauge pressure, the delta between the pressure in the tire 
> and atmospheric pressure, the change in atmospheric would account for 
> most of the difference seen.? But I have no idea if the tire gauge 
> used works that way or not.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 5/24/21 11:36 AM, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>> I for one can't think of an explanation for this startling 
>> phenomenon. Obviously, the ambient air pressure is less at 
>> altitude--known as 'adiabatic lapse rate' to nerds and pilots--which, 
>> theoretically could cause the tires to expand, increasing their 
>> volume and lowering the pressure (according to the Ideal Gas Law). 
>> But, I doubt steel-belted radial tires expand or contract much, but 
>> air pressure in fixed volume goes up about 1psi per 10degF IIRC.
>>
>> Was there a 40degF difference in temperature between Portland and Big 
>> Bear (California has been pretty warm the last few weeks, which I can 
>> attest to since our A/C is on the fritz)? Also, temps vary when tires 
>> are warmed by the sun or friction with the road, so if I can't check 
>> pressure completely in the shade I'll under-fill the tires in the sun 
>> by half a degree. So, my guess is a significant difference in air 
>> temps, and asphalt absorbs a lot of heat which gets transferred to 
>> the tires (Portland = (often) cloudy and cool; SoCal = (often) sunny 
>> and hot).
>>
>>
>> On 5/24/2021 8:20 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting 
>>> pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model 
>>> !!!!!! LOL!
>>>
>>> Jean
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *richard mayor <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent: *May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
>>> *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>>>
>>> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, 
>>> to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea 
>>> level.? I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>>>
>>> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level 
>>> and all tires at 25 psi.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 24 10:21:20 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 09:21:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <3fe801aa-1279-75be-2757-9f1adf0e7427@comcast.net>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>
 <cf2ef948-707e-036d-574d-5e205519f974@earthlink.net>
 <3fe801aa-1279-75be-2757-9f1adf0e7427@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d767aede-4273-1093-426f-74ba2e9ce4f3@comcast.net>

OK, looks like I'm wrong here:

https://www.me.psu.edu/cimbala/Learning/Fluid/Pressure/pressure_basics.htm

BUT:

"Example: Does gage pressure change with elevation?

Solution: No. Since gage pressure is always relative to the /local/ 
value of atmospheric pressure, the gage pressure of the atmosphere is 
always zero, regardless of elevation. Note that /absolute/ pressure 
decreases with elevation, just as water pressure increases with depth. "

So, the difference can only be accounted for by temperature delta.



On 5/24/2021 9:16 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Interesting point. I'm familiar with three types of tire pressure 
> gauges: 1) the 'pencil' type with a sliding 'ruler', 2) the analog 
> type which usually use a Bourdon tube (used in our 'safety' gauges) 
> and 3) digital.
>
> I can't imagine ambient pressure affecting the pencil/slider type; a 
> Bourdon tube could be slightly affected by temperature I suppose, and 
> the digital gauges usually use a pressure/load sensor (like digital 
> scales) and I've not noticed a port to compare with ambient. So, I'm 
> gonna go out on a limb and say gauges measure absolute--not 
> differential--pressure so the ambient/tire delta is a non-factor (but 
> I have no proof).
>
>
> On 5/24/2021 9:05 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>> Atmospheric pressure at sea level, 59 degF is 14.7 psia.? At 6,700 ft 
>> and 59 degF, the pressure is 11.47 psia.? If the tire gage is 
>> measuring gauge pressure, the delta between the pressure in the tire 
>> and atmospheric pressure, the change in atmospheric would account for 
>> most of the difference seen.? But I have no idea if the tire gauge 
>> used works that way or not.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 5/24/21 11:36 AM, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>>> I for one can't think of an explanation for this startling 
>>> phenomenon. Obviously, the ambient air pressure is less at 
>>> altitude--known as 'adiabatic lapse rate' to nerds and 
>>> pilots--which, theoretically could cause the tires to expand, 
>>> increasing their volume and lowering the pressure (according to the 
>>> Ideal Gas Law). But, I doubt steel-belted radial tires expand or 
>>> contract much, but air pressure in fixed volume goes up about 1psi 
>>> per 10degF IIRC.
>>>
>>> Was there a 40degF difference in temperature between Portland and 
>>> Big Bear (California has been pretty warm the last few weeks, which 
>>> I can attest to since our A/C is on the fritz)? Also, temps vary 
>>> when tires are warmed by the sun or friction with the road, so if I 
>>> can't check pressure completely in the shade I'll under-fill the 
>>> tires in the sun by half a degree. So, my guess is a significant 
>>> difference in air temps, and asphalt absorbs a lot of heat which 
>>> gets transferred to the tires (Portland = (often) cloudy and cool; 
>>> SoCal = (often) sunny and hot).
>>>
>>>
>>> On 5/24/2021 8:20 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting 
>>>> pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model 
>>>> !!!!!! LOL!
>>>>
>>>> Jean
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>>> Windows 10
>>>>
>>>> *From: *richard mayor <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent: *May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
>>>> *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>>>>
>>>> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, 
>>>> to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea 
>>>> level.? I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>>>>
>>>> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level 
>>>> and all tires at 25 psi.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 24 10:46:04 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 12:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <d767aede-4273-1093-426f-74ba2e9ce4f3@comcast.net>
References: <CAKkXjqMZWaWYV4X7zXNU3GmDtLR1E0VTyBi7p+PW5LiZ+UMSWQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <c8277e0f-0f8f-e452-79cb-0b8d8526269e@comcast.net>
 <cf2ef948-707e-036d-574d-5e205519f974@earthlink.net>
 <3fe801aa-1279-75be-2757-9f1adf0e7427@comcast.net>
 <d767aede-4273-1093-426f-74ba2e9ce4f3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d947888c-b7f5-3b8a-74c2-13da49758def@earthlink.net>

I agree that gauge pressure of the atmosphere is always zero.? In 
Portland the tire pressure is 29 psig (gauge) or 43.7 psia (absolute).? 
Ignoring temperature effects, I would think the absolute pressure inside 
the tire would still be around 43.7 psia at Conclave. Atmospheric 
pressure at 6,700 ft is 11.47 psia.? So gage pressure would be 43.7 psia 
minus 11.5 psia or 32.2 psig.

It makes sense to me, and that should be my first warning sign...

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/24/21 12:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, looks like I'm wrong here:
>
> https://www.me.psu.edu/cimbala/Learning/Fluid/Pressure/pressure_basics.htm
>
> BUT:
>
> "Example: Does gage pressure change with elevation?
>
> Solution: No. Since gage pressure is always relative to the /local/ 
> value of atmospheric pressure, the gage pressure of the atmosphere is 
> always zero, regardless of elevation. Note that /absolute/ pressure 
> decreases with elevation, just as water pressure increases with depth. "
>
> So, the difference can only be accounted for by temperature delta.
>
>
>
> On 5/24/2021 9:16 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Interesting point. I'm familiar with three types of tire pressure 
>> gauges: 1) the 'pencil' type with a sliding 'ruler', 2) the analog 
>> type which usually use a Bourdon tube (used in our 'safety' gauges) 
>> and 3) digital.
>>
>> I can't imagine ambient pressure affecting the pencil/slider type; a 
>> Bourdon tube could be slightly affected by temperature I suppose, and 
>> the digital gauges usually use a pressure/load sensor (like digital 
>> scales) and I've not noticed a port to compare with ambient. So, I'm 
>> gonna go out on a limb and say gauges measure absolute--not 
>> differential--pressure so the ambient/tire delta is a non-factor (but 
>> I have no proof).
>>
>>
>> On 5/24/2021 9:05 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>> Atmospheric pressure at sea level, 59 degF is 14.7 psia.? At 6,700 
>>> ft and 59 degF, the pressure is 11.47 psia.? If the tire gage is 
>>> measuring gauge pressure, the delta between the pressure in the tire 
>>> and atmospheric pressure, the change in atmospheric would account 
>>> for most of the difference seen.? But I have no idea if the tire 
>>> gauge used works that way or not.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>> On 5/24/21 11:36 AM, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>>>> I for one can't think of an explanation for this startling 
>>>> phenomenon. Obviously, the ambient air pressure is less at 
>>>> altitude--known as 'adiabatic lapse rate' to nerds and 
>>>> pilots--which, theoretically could cause the tires to expand, 
>>>> increasing their volume and lowering the pressure (according to the 
>>>> Ideal Gas Law). But, I doubt steel-belted radial tires expand or 
>>>> contract much, but air pressure in fixed volume goes up about 1psi 
>>>> per 10degF IIRC.
>>>>
>>>> Was there a 40degF difference in temperature between Portland and 
>>>> Big Bear (California has been pretty warm the last few weeks, which 
>>>> I can attest to since our A/C is on the fritz)? Also, temps vary 
>>>> when tires are warmed by the sun or friction with the road, so if I 
>>>> can't check pressure completely in the shade I'll under-fill the 
>>>> tires in the sun by half a degree. So, my guess is a significant 
>>>> difference in air temps, and asphalt absorbs a lot of heat which 
>>>> gets transferred to the tires (Portland = (often) cloudy and cool; 
>>>> SoCal = (often) sunny and hot).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 5/24/2021 8:20 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting 
>>>>> pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model 
>>>>> !!!!!! LOL!
>>>>>
>>>>> Jean
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> 
>>>>> for Windows 10
>>>>>
>>>>> *From: *richard mayor <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>>>> *Sent: *May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
>>>>> *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>>>>>
>>>>> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, 
>>>>> Oregon, to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet 
>>>>> above sea level.? I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
>>>>>
>>>>> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level 
>>>>> and all tires at 25 psi.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
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>>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon May 24 10:54:34 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 16:54:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
Message-ID: <a9fc8681f4360d358ea59b7477a0134b6899c33a@webmail>

It's the tire gauge! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Jean Caron via
Healeys" 
To: "richard mayor", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday May 24 2021 8:21:15AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

	Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting
pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model
!!!!!! LOL! 

	Jean 

	Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 

	FROM: richard mayor
SENT: May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
TO: Healeys
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia  

	My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon,
to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea
level. I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.   

	Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and
all tires at 25 psi.   

	   

Links:
------
[1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986

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From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net  Mon May 24 14:23:09 2021
From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 15:23:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
References: <a9fc8681f4360d358ea59b7477a0134b6899c33a@webmail> 
Message-ID: <016701d750da$9d28fa40$d77aeec0$@centurylink.net>

 

 

From: Herb Miller [mailto:hgmiller3 at centurylink.net] 
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 1:30 PM
To: 'gradea1 at charter.net'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

 

I have a Drager tire gauge I have had for 40 years. It is a Bourdon tube type, with a special feature. As seen on the attached web page, the little red lever, is used to zero out the gauge before use. So in Portland set to zero and read 29 psi. At 6,7000 feet set to zero and reed 29 psi.

VINTAGE DRAGER SYSTEM TIRE PRESSURE GAUGE GERMANY NICE GOOD CONDITION PORSCHE VW | eBay <https://www.ebay.com/itm/133764944074?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133764944074&targetid=4581183927179143&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179143&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=6957069dfcd01d9bfa1066360cfe25b9> 

 

Herb Miller

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henry G Leach via Healeys
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 11:55 AM
To: 'Jean Caron'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

 

It's the tire gauge! Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Jean Caron via Healeys" 
To: "richard mayor", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday May 24 2021 8:21:15AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model !!!!!! LOL!

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: richard mayor
Sent: May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia

 

My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.  I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.

Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and all tires at 25 psi.

 

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon May 24 14:36:47 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 16:36:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507BA238E145706046CEAC9D1269@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6BCA0A3E-93AE-4404-8938-8FB9B2BA1832@aol.com>

Copied from a web site. Saves me typing with my fat thumb....

?Remember that tire pressure will increase as the outside airtemperature rises. In fact, tire pressure will go up approximately one pound for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit. ... As you drive, there's friction between the tires and theroad. Friction means heat ? and heat means an increase in tire pressure.?

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 24, 2021, at 11:21 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Sounds like you have one of those rare wheels with self-adjusting pressure, I wonder when these became an option and on what model !!!!!! LOL!
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: richard mayor
> Sent: May 24, 2021 9:28 AM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire air pressure change trivia
>  
> My Healey tire pressures went from 29 psi here in Portland, Oregon, to 33 psi at Big Bear Resort in California - 6,700 feet above sea level.  I then lowered my tire pressures to 29 psi.
> Checked my tires today back in Portland - 70 feet above sea level and all tires at 25 psi.
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon May 24 16:04:24 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 15:04:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure change
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMj=6Pj98ifgLjEre0+Vw=4SMxhcFCpJ3o9iAb4x6x_ng@mail.gmail.com>

Who knew this would have any controversy?  The tire pressure change had
nothing to do with temperature.  The only difference is in altitude. Just
like the percentage change of oxygen in the air as you go up in altitude,
there is a change in the atmospheric pressure as you go up in altitude ....
they both go down.   The pressure in the tire, as measured by the gauge, is
relative to the ambient pressure.  I knew this before leaving Portland so I
lowered the pressure in all my tires to 29 psi.  I had assumed that the
pressure would go up about 3 pounds.  It actually went up 4 pounds.
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon May 24 16:23:37 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 22:23:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure change
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMj=6Pj98ifgLjEre0+Vw=4SMxhcFCpJ3o9iAb4x6x_ng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMj=6Pj98ifgLjEre0+Vw=4SMxhcFCpJ3o9iAb4x6x_ng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB427657D30C4128E6EF88223DBF269@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Au contraire:
Temperature has a lot to do with it:
When I run my car (not the Healey), depending on track temperature and speed my tires will gain 4 to 10 lbs of air pressure per session but not necessarily equally dependent on the road course and corners.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

> On May 24, 2021, at 17:07, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Who knew this would have any controversy?  The tire pressure change had nothing to do with temperature.  The only difference is in altitude. Just like the percentage change of oxygen in the air as you go up in altitude, there is a change in the atmospheric pressure as you go up in altitude .... they both go down.   The pressure in the tire, as measured by the gauge, is relative to the ambient pressure.  I knew this before leaving Portland so I lowered the pressure in all my tires to 29 psi.  I had assumed that the pressure would go up about 3 pounds.  It actually went up 4 pounds. 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon May 24 16:54:04 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 22:54:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure change
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMj=6Pj98ifgLjEre0+Vw=4SMxhcFCpJ3o9iAb4x6x_ng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMj=6Pj98ifgLjEre0+Vw=4SMxhcFCpJ3o9iAb4x6x_ng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <713012417.3459882.1621896844758@mail.yahoo.com>

Assume for for a moment that the tire is ridged. It would be like a ridged, sealed box. The pressure in the box, for example 30 PSIG would not depend upon the outside atmospheric pressure. If the box were taken to a higher elevation, the pressure inside the box would not change. But if the temperature were higher or lower the pressure in the box would change.?However, since the tire is not 100% ridged, the tire would slightly expand at a higher altitude/lower outside pressure which would result is a slightly lower PSIG. The question in my mind is by how much?
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 24, 2021 5:04 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure change

Who knew this would have any controversy?? The tire pressure change had nothing to do with temperature.? The only difference is in altitude. Just like the percentage change of oxygen in the air as you go up in altitude, there is a change in the atmospheric pressure as you go up in altitude .... they both go down.?? The pressure in the tire, as measured by the gauge, is relative to the ambient pressure.? I knew this before leaving Portland so I lowered the pressure in all my tires to 29 psi.? I had assumed that the pressure would go up about 3 pounds.? It actually went up 4 pounds. 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon May 24 17:13:45 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 16:13:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOdo=zTwPZ_ZLtEeAUxz13ZqY=7cPGHpiCcwLELde_daQ@mail.gmail.com>

Sheesh.   Temperature was not a factor. It was roughly the same temperature
in Big Bear as it was in Portland when I checked the tires.    I race
cars.  I know that tire pressure goes up when you race.  I did not race the
Healey before taking the tire pressures.
This is not rocket science.  Google it.   Altitude affects tire pressure.
Just like it affects the pressure in your ears.
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 24 17:50:52 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 16:50:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave tire pressure
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOdo=zTwPZ_ZLtEeAUxz13ZqY=7cPGHpiCcwLELde_daQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOdo=zTwPZ_ZLtEeAUxz13ZqY=7cPGHpiCcwLELde_daQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7701d6fd-8a52-7c2e-c39b-3741170f0355@comcast.net>

How does a pencil/slider-type of gauge know what the ambient pressure 
is, and how does it compensate? I'm guessing it reads absolute pressure 
regardless of ambient pressure; has anyone tried this 'experiment' with 
one of those?

What would a Bourdon tube-type gauge, set to zero at Mean Seal 
Level--good ones have a 'calibration' knob, or the needle can be reset 
(I have one of those)--read at altitude without being reset (I'm 
guessing less than zero)? IOW, a Bourdon-type gauge is effectively a 
barometer, and will read less at altitude and give a higher 
relative--not absolute--pressure if not reset to zero.

I presume the digital gauges--which I've found to be the most 
repeatable, if not the most accurate--do have ambient pressure 
compensation. Richard, did you reset your gauge to zero at altitude, or 
do you use a digital gauge?

I did google it, from a reliable source:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=167

This phrase: "... if tire inflation were set with a tire pressure gauge 
at sea level (where the atmospheric pressure of 14.7 pounds per square 
inch is used as ambient atmospheric pressure by the gauge), the same 
tire pressure gauge would indicate the pressure has increased at higher 
elevations where the ambient atmospheric pressure is lower"

I read this to mean the GAUGE, calibrated at Std. Temp and 
Pressure--760mm of mercury at 15degC--will read inaccurately unless 
reset for ambient air pressure. This is demonstrated in aircraft 
altimeters, which are essentially barometers but have the addition of a 
'calibration' mechanism, known as a Kollsman Window. So an altimeter, 
which is a pressure gauge with a means to adjust to both altitude and 
temperature needs to be adjusted quite often to give an accurate reading 
of altitude.

bs

ps. I'm not waging a semantics war here, I've often thought about these 
things myself and would like clarification.


On 5/24/2021 4:13 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> Sheesh.?? Temperature was not a factor. It was roughly the same 
> temperature in Big Bear as it was in Portland when I checked the 
> tires.??? I race cars.? I know that tire pressure goes up when you 
> race.? I did not race the Healey before taking the tire pressures.
> This is not rocket science.? Google it.?? Altitude affects tire 
> pressure.? Just like it affects the pressure in your ears.
>


From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 24 19:31:02 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 18:31:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>

RE: BT7 signal issue.
 
When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to a
bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few
seconds and then revert to off.
 
All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake
lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
 
Any ideas as to what is wrong?
 
TIA
John
'62 BT7
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon May 24 20:17:01 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 19:17:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89+XFFohXejoM5XvffC116o6bvUkrv_bGbRtTYLfx0vaA@mail.gmail.com>

Flasher unit is failing or a bulb is out

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Mon, May 24, 2021, 6:40 PM John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> RE: BT7 signal issue.
>
>
>
> When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to
> a bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few
> seconds and then revert to off.
>
>
>
> All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake
> lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
>
>
>
> Any ideas as to what is wrong?
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
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>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 24 21:04:37 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 20:04:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89+XFFohXejoM5XvffC116o6bvUkrv_bGbRtTYLfx0vaA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CABXhz89+XFFohXejoM5XvffC116o6bvUkrv_bGbRtTYLfx0vaA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000b01d75112$b2f4fc60$18def520$@sbcglobal.net>

The flasher unit and all bulbs work.
 
From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 7:17 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
 
Flasher unit is failing or a bulb is out
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
 
On Mon, May 24, 2021, 6:40 PM John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
RE: BT7 signal issue.
 
When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to a bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few seconds and then revert to off.
 
All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
 
Any ideas as to what is wrong?
 
TIA
John
?62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon May 24 21:27:33 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 23:27:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <000b01d75112$b2f4fc60$18def520$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CABXhz89+XFFohXejoM5XvffC116o6bvUkrv_bGbRtTYLfx0vaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <000b01d75112$b2f4fc60$18def520$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK=sgc=5HmMOOsZwSJGtrZmSYVfp_S_42wgEL2VniV7oQ@mail.gmail.com>

Are you using an original Lucas flasher unit John?

M

On Mon., May 24, 2021, 11:06 p.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The flasher unit and all bulbs work.
>
>
>
> *From:* i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, May 24, 2021 7:17 PM
> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
>
>
>
> Flasher unit is failing or a bulb is out
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 24, 2021, 6:40 PM John Spaur via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> RE: BT7 signal issue.
>
>
>
> When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to
> a bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few
> seconds and then revert to off.
>
>
>
> All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake
> lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
>
>
>
> Any ideas as to what is wrong?
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon May 24 21:29:51 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 20:29:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <t6roagt46e1jjbtonho34r9h28cvq7qhl3@4ax.com>

does the indicator light up when the turn signal lights or does it
light up when the turn signal is off (that is, between flashes)? Since
the indicator doesn't flash, but only goes on, you will have to
observe the indicator and the turn signal light simultaneously during
the first flash cycle to check this.

Why bother?  Well, because if the indicator is in parallel with the
turn signal lights then both should flash of one flashes unless
something strange is happening.  If the indicator runs off of another
terminal on the flasher and it isn't flashing, perhaps the flasher
unit is in an early failure mode and it is time to replace it.

It would be good to stare at the wiring diagram, too, and hope that
your wiring hasn't been 'improved' by someone in the past.  If you can
trust the wiring diagram you can sort things out a lot easier.

-Roland
BN1

On Mon, 24 May 2021 18:31:02 -0700, you wrote:

>RE: BT7 signal issue.
> 
>When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to a
>bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few
>seconds and then revert to off.
> 
>All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake
>lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
> 
>Any ideas as to what is wrong?
> 
>TIA
>John
>'62 BT7

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon May 24 23:11:03 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 22:11:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wizzard Radiator cap part #
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOesz0gP+7FexGRWtSEBx_LxXeCqKQVa5cLC7UEK+GhBQ@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone out there running a Wizzard aluminum radiator?  I bought mine many
years ago and used an old funky unbranded cap that I had on the shelf.  It
worked OK but was a bit loose. I now decided to use a recovery tank and so
I bought a new NAPA Balkamp cap using the part # I got from a discussion on
the BCS forum.  It is too tall.
If you are running a Wizzard I would love to know what cap you are running
and the part number.
Thanks, Richardi
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 25 00:04:45 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 23:04:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK=sgc=5HmMOOsZwSJGtrZmSYVfp_S_42wgEL2VniV7oQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CABXhz89+XFFohXejoM5XvffC116o6bvUkrv_bGbRtTYLfx0vaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <000b01d75112$b2f4fc60$18def520$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LK=sgc=5HmMOOsZwSJGtrZmSYVfp_S_42wgEL2VniV7oQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901d7512b$dd7cdbb0$98769310$@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, it has been installed for eight years and 6,000 miles. This issue was preceded by the left hand signal working but the dash indicator would not flash, it was unilluminated as opposed to the right hand signal flashing. I thought it was a grounding issue when I stated to trouble shoot it last weekend but the original problem disappeared and this one surfaced. 
 
From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 8:28 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
 
Are you using an original Lucas flasher unit John?
 
M
 
On Mon., May 24, 2021, 11:06 p.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
The flasher unit and all bulbs work.
 
From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> ] 
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 7:17 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> >
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
 
Flasher unit is failing or a bulb is out
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
 
On Mon, May 24, 2021, 6:40 PM John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
RE: BT7 signal issue.
 
When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up to a bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for a few seconds and then revert to off.
 
All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the brake lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
 
Any ideas as to what is wrong?
 
TIA
John
?62 BT7
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 25 00:34:47 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 23:34:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator
In-Reply-To: <t6roagt46e1jjbtonho34r9h28cvq7qhl3@4ax.com>
References: <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000201d75105$a072bf80$e1583e80$@sbcglobal.net>
 <t6roagt46e1jjbtonho34r9h28cvq7qhl3@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <001e01d75130$0f2f7f10$2d8e7d30$@sbcglobal.net>

No issues with the wiring. I properly installed a new wiring harness and
flasher can in 2013. It has worked properly for 6,000 miles. It lights up
when I flip the steering wheel switch and stays lit up.

-----Original Message-----
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com [mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2021 8:30 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dashboard signal indicator

does the indicator light up when the turn signal lights or does it light up
when the turn signal is off (that is, between flashes)? Since the indicator
doesn't flash, but only goes on, you will have to observe the indicator and
the turn signal light simultaneously during the first flash cycle to check
this.

Why bother?  Well, because if the indicator is in parallel with the turn
signal lights then both should flash of one flashes unless something strange
is happening.  If the indicator runs off of another terminal on the flasher
and it isn't flashing, perhaps the flasher unit is in an early failure mode
and it is time to replace it.

It would be good to stare at the wiring diagram, too, and hope that your
wiring hasn't been 'improved' by someone in the past.  If you can trust the
wiring diagram you can sort things out a lot easier.

-Roland
BN1

On Mon, 24 May 2021 18:31:02 -0700, you wrote:

>RE: BT7 signal issue.
> 
>When I use the signal for a right or left turn, the indicator lights up 
>to a bright solid green instead of blinking. It will stay that way for 
>a few seconds and then revert to off.
> 
>All lights are functioning. The signals blink right or left and the 
>brake lights work. I can hear the flasher working too.
> 
>Any ideas as to what is wrong?
> 
>TIA
>John
>'62 BT7

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue May 25 09:25:38 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 08:25:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wizzard Radiator cap part #
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOesz0gP+7FexGRWtSEBx_LxXeCqKQVa5cLC7UEK+GhBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOesz0gP+7FexGRWtSEBx_LxXeCqKQVa5cLC7UEK+GhBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7CE50310-F653-4FA6-B78F-5A3699A4604C@hxcore.ol>

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue May 25 13:41:49 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 15:41:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wizzard Radiator cap part #
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOesz0gP+7FexGRWtSEBx_LxXeCqKQVa5cLC7UEK+GhBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOesz0gP+7FexGRWtSEBx_LxXeCqKQVa5cLC7UEK+GhBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZc0Oe1v+JpKu8-iT9SJZszb557u0wv12XB1sMvPjZrSFg@mail.gmail.com>

I'd suggest contacting Wizard.  Their customer service is great.  I bought
one of their fancy ones when I got my radiator, so I don't know which
regular parts store cap would fit.

Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
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On Tue, May 25, 2021 at 1:12 AM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone out there running a Wizzard aluminum radiator?  I bought mine many
> years ago and used an old funky unbranded cap that I had on the shelf.  It
> worked OK but was a bit loose. I now decided to use a recovery tank and so
> I bought a new NAPA Balkamp cap using the part # I got from a discussion on
> the BCS forum.  It is too tall.
> If you are running a Wizzard I would love to know what cap you are running
> and the part number.
> Thanks, Richardi
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Fri May 21 16:16:25 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 15:16:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
 <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>

This is a timely thread, as I was just talking yesterday with the expert panel at Conclave about this issue after I nearly got rear ended in Big Bear because my brake lights are not coming on until the pedal is depressed nearly half way.  Turns out Russ Thompson has converted several cars to a mechanical, pedal actuated switch with a simple bracket attached to the cross member/heater duct.  I will be pursuing this over Memorial Day weekend.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2021 5:20 PM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; kags at shaw.ca
Cc: Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html

I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> This
> link--https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-P
> ressure-Activated,391417.html--will
> <https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressu
> re-Activated,391417.html--will> take you to the Speedway site and the 
> Accel brake switch shown is touted to be American-made and useable on 
> Harleys, so perhaps this is what the original poster is looking for.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Hi Brian:
>
>     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It
>     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
>     brake fluid.
>
>     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
>     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do
>     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
>     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
>     the problem.
>
>     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
>     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
>     DM?s car, and all seems well.  The word is that the parts now
>     being supplied are better.  These switches came in Interpart boxes
>     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
>     not particularly expensive.
>
>     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
>     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
>     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
>     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
>     terminals.
>
>     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
>     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
>     knowing Roger!
>
>     Earl Kagna
>
>     Victoria BC
>
>     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
>     via Healeys
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
>     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
>     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
>     better than the original.
>
>     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
>     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
>     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
>     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
>
>     Brian Drab
>
>     BJ8
>
>
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>     	Virus-free. www.avast.com
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> campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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>
>     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri May 21 16:28:44 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 17:28:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
 <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
 <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4VToNzQydzn2bDZvPjxq2uh+pTYTKJ+mwXFQ9XSMz-Hg@mail.gmail.com>

I often see cars on the race track with either no or intermittent brake
lights, despite the fact that every car is checked for operative lights at
tech inspection.  The reason they get thru tech is that the driver
invariably stands on the pedal whereas on the track seldom does one exert
this kind of force, and I believe the failure mode of pressure switches to
be that they slowly lose their sensitivity to pressure as the innards age
and harden.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 5:16 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> This is a timely thread, as I was just talking yesterday with the expert
> panel at Conclave about this issue after I nearly got rear ended in Big
> Bear because my brake lights are not coming on until the pedal is depressed
> nearly half way.  Turns out Russ Thompson has converted several cars to a
> mechanical, pedal actuated switch with a simple bracket attached to the
> cross member/heater duct.  I will be pursuing this over Memorial Day
> weekend.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Haskell via Healeys
> Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2021 5:20 PM
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; kags at shaw.ca
> Cc: Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
> For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:
>
>
> https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html
>
> I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or
> lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> > This
> > link--https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-P
> > ressure-Activated,391417.html--will
> > <https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressu
> > re-Activated,391417.html--will> take you to the Speedway site and the
> > Accel brake switch shown is touted to be American-made and useable on
> > Harleys, so perhaps this is what the original poster is looking for.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys
> > <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> >
> >     Hi Brian:
> >
> >     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It
> >     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
> >     brake fluid.
> >
> >     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
> >     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do
> >     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
> >     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
> >     the problem.
> >
> >     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
> >     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
> >     DM?s car, and all seems well.  The word is that the parts now
> >     being supplied are better.  These switches came in Interpart boxes
> >     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
> >     not particularly expensive.
> >
> >     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
> >     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
> >     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
> >     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
> >     terminals.
> >
> >     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
> >     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
> >     knowing Roger!
> >
> >     Earl Kagna
> >
> >     Victoria BC
> >
> >     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
> >
> >     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> >     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
> >     via Healeys
> >     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
> >     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
> >
> >     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
> >     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
> >     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
> >     better than the original.
> >
> >     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
> >     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
> >     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
> >     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
> >
> >     Brian Drab
> >
> >     BJ8
> >
> >
> >     <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> >
> >       Virus-free. www.avast.com
> >
> > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
> > campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> >
> >
> >     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> >     _______________________________________________
> >     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> >     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
> >     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> >     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> >     Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> >
> > <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Best--Michael
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Fri May 21 16:45:32 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 15:45:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4VToNzQydzn2bDZvPjxq2uh+pTYTKJ+mwXFQ9XSMz-Hg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
 <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
 <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>
 <CAPTa0B4VToNzQydzn2bDZvPjxq2uh+pTYTKJ+mwXFQ9XSMz-Hg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <016c01d74e93$02302e30$06908a90$@roadrunner.com>

That is certainly consistent with the observed behavior of the switches as they age.  And it seems they age much more quickly, presumably due to poor materials and/or construction.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2021 3:29 PM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Cc: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; kags at shaw.ca; Austin Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net>; Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

 

I often see cars on the race track with either no or intermittent brake lights, despite the fact that every car is checked for operative lights at tech inspection.  The reason they get thru tech is that the driver invariably stands on the pedal whereas on the track seldom does one exert this kind of force, and I believe the failure mode of pressure switches to be that they slowly lose their sensitivity to pressure as the innards age and harden. 

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 5:16 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

This is a timely thread, as I was just talking yesterday with the expert panel at Conclave about this issue after I nearly got rear ended in Big Bear because my brake lights are not coming on until the pedal is depressed nearly half way.  Turns out Russ Thompson has converted several cars to a mechanical, pedal actuated switch with a simple bracket attached to the cross member/heater duct.  I will be pursuing this over Memorial Day weekend.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2021 5:20 PM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com> >; kags at shaw.ca
Cc: Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca <mailto:bgdrab at redzone.ca> >; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch

For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html

I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> This
> link--https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-P
> ressure-Activated,391417.html--will
> <https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressu
> re-Activated,391417.html--will> take you to the Speedway site and the 
> Accel brake switch shown is touted to be American-made and useable on 
> Harleys, so perhaps this is what the original poster is looking for.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >> wrote:
>
>     Hi Brian:
>
>     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It
>     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
>     brake fluid.
>
>     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
>     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do
>     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
>     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
>     the problem.
>
>     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
>     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
>     DM?s car, and all seems well.  The word is that the parts now
>     being supplied are better.  These switches came in Interpart boxes
>     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
>     not particularly expensive.
>
>     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
>     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
>     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
>     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
>     terminals.
>
>     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
>     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
>     knowing Roger!
>
>     Earl Kagna
>
>     Victoria BC
>
>     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> 
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> >> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
>     via Healeys
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
>     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
>     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
>     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
>     better than the original.
>
>     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
>     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
>     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
>     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
>
>     Brian Drab
>
>     BJ8
>
>
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> &utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>       Virus-free. www.avast.com <http://www.avast.com> 
>     
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_> &utm_source=link&utm_
> campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>     
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com






 

-- 

Best--Michael

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From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net  Wed May 26 09:30:25 2021
From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 10:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Doors
Message-ID: <021001d75244$0d681e20$28385a60$@centurylink.net>

I have L & R doors for an early BN4  that are redundant to my current

Healey's (AN5, BT7, BJ8) These are for an early BN4, as the left door has

the provision for a door lock. I also have a left side door handle with the

door lock. No key but the back side is hand stamped with the number 628 . I

assume this is the key number. Both doors are in very good condition with no

rust perforations. I have the top of door aluminum cockpit trim pieces,
which 

I believe are original to the doors. Pictures upon request.

 

Any interest by anyone on the list.

 

Herb Miller

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed May 26 12:10:57 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 11:10:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>

There was a discussion at the Conclave tech session about ignition
timing..... advancing the distributor to a certain point and then backing
off a certain amount..... without using a timing light.  I cannot remember
the specific details but I would like to try it.  Does anyone have the
exact details of the procedure?
Thanks,  Richard
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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Wed May 26 11:15:35 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 17:15:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB25073DDC3B2028C5AE12AAACD1549@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <a6ff382f3244046843ad389e1af6e9182824545c@webmail>
 <DM6PR17MB25073DDC3B2028C5AE12AAACD1549@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1881170468.655901.1622049336645@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hello Steve,
As promised, an ALMOST complete set of numbers from my BJ8.? (The bonnet catch mechanism has failed to materialise in the 
several dozen cardboard storage boxes that I've managed to ransack so far!. The whole thing is missing from the pull-rod 
- which I've always thought to be a very primitive, not to say ineffective, arrangement - to the catch.? Very peculiar!)? If and when 
it materialises, I'll forward it to you.
Meanwhile................................


    On Monday, 10 May 2021, 16:37:59 GMT-7, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv9651965127 #yiv9651965127 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9651965127 #yiv9651965127 p.yiv9651965127MsoNormal, #yiv9651965127 li.yiv9651965127MsoNormal, #yiv9651965127 div.yiv9651965127MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9651965127 a:link, #yiv9651965127 span.yiv9651965127MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9651965127 .yiv9651965127MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv9651965127 div.yiv9651965127WordSection1 {}#yiv9651965127 
I believe that the ?mystery number? was stamped there by the frame manufacturer and do not relate to any other number on the car.

On BJ8, the Jensen number is also on the bottom ledge of the glovebox cover, if you open the glovebox, you can read the number with a mirror.

 ?
 
Jean

 ?
 
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?
 
From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: May 10, 2021 6:28 PM
To: 'BJ8Healeys'
Cc: 'Austin Healey'; 'David Lodge'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

 ?
 
Steve-I checked the locations on my original 66 BJ8 35516 and found "0224" in three places.? I did not find a frame number marked next to the shock tower. Cannot equate that number to anything else on the car. Its not body or batch, but some of those locations are a Jensen spot for markings. If someone was to replace the bonnet latch mounting, they threw out the number. Regards, Hank
 
-----------------------------------------

From: "BJ8Healeys" 
To: "David Lodge"
Cc: "Austin Healey"
Sent: Monday May 10 2021 8:39:35AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

David, I don't know for sure, but it's my understanding that the frames were built by John Thompson Motor Pressings.? Frequently this number has been partially obscured by weld bead.? Jensen put their number on the body plate, as well as another number in three places:? the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator; on the driver's side (in reference to LHC cars) bonnet flange where the hinge is bolted; and on the underside of the boot lid where the prop rod attaches (example photos attached).
 
My guess is that the number you show was put there by the frame manufacturer.? I haven't been able to connect the number to any other number on the car.
 
 ?
 
BTW:? I have been doing a study of the "Jensen numbers" in the three places cited above.? It would be helpful to be able to document as many of them as possible.? So far, I have them for 222 BJ8s.? They do have a relation to the VIN of a car, but a closer correspondence with the body number.? Any BJ8 owners who wants to contribute to the database of these numbers to help us understand more about them should send me a photo of what you find on your BJ8, if possible.? If not, then just send the numbers to me.? I also need the chassis number and body number of the car.
 
 ?
 
Thanks!
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC? USA
 
-----------------------------------------

From: "David Lodge via Healeys"
To: "Austin Healey"
Cc: "David Lodge"
Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 11:24:18PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
 
Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies?? It's at the right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock tower.
 
 ?
 
A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.
 
 ?
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed May 26 14:08:49 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 13:08:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqM_so3Yw0u8K-_Tg7gyUuOaYX4+mPrczV7sKU3Xt2_yJQ@mail.gmail.com>

Some additional info for you listers about my post.  I do in fact have a
timing light. I actually have two.  Please do not reply to me and tell me
what the factory spec is or what the total advance should be or anything
else you assume I don't know.  I simply have a keen interest in knowing
about "old school"  techniques and how to apply them.

On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 11:10 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> There was a discussion at the Conclave tech session about ignition
> timing..... advancing the distributor to a certain point and then backing
> off a certain amount..... without using a timing light.  I cannot remember
> the specific details but I would like to try it.  Does anyone have the
> exact details of the procedure?
> Thanks,  Richard
>
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Wed May 26 15:15:18 2021
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 17:15:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqM_so3Yw0u8K-_Tg7gyUuOaYX4+mPrczV7sKU3Xt2_yJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM_so3Yw0u8K-_Tg7gyUuOaYX4+mPrczV7sKU3Xt2_yJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <69f229ae-c423-eaeb-7f36-aebc0de50c5b@htcnet.org>

way I used to do that was advance timing and test drive lugging in high 
gear, when pinging started, it was time to retard slightly to avoid 
pinging.? Worked fine.

JAV

On 5/26/2021 4:08 PM, richard mayor wrote:
> Some additional info for you listers about my post.? I do in fact have 
> a timing light. I actually have two. Please do not reply to me and 
> tell me what the factory spec is or what the total advance should be 
> or anything else you assume I don't know.? I simply have a keen 
> interest in knowing about "old school"? techniques and how to apply them.
>
> On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 11:10 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     There was a discussion at the Conclave tech session about ignition
>     timing..... advancing the distributor to a certain point and then
>     backing off a certain amount..... without using a timing light.? I
>     cannot remember the specific details but I would like to try it.?
>     Does anyone have the exact details of the procedure?
>     Thanks,? Richard
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>

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From andersonfoot at msn.com  Wed May 26 15:21:25 2021
From: andersonfoot at msn.com (Charles D Anderson)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 21:21:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch  Re: Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 202
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1622052001.16220.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1622052001.16220.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR07MB636374AE539B84219D1AC88CD9249@DM6PR07MB6363.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Brake switch
I used a switch from Moss - part number 542-371.  It is for a TR6 and is $14.99.  I just drove 4,305 miles to Big Bear and back home and it?s still working!  I made a bracket for the cross member and then made a mini harness with 2 wires to go from the switch out the firewall to the fuse box and hook it up there. Pictures are enclosed.


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2021 1:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 202

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
        healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&amp;data=04%7C01%7C%7C5fc8e564e12f483cf7cb08d92070256f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637576488302453005%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&amp;sdata=WqFI1Nd0v0xL7jJEl0Gbr5XqTYnGxlNKYZ5EltEJZCg%3D&amp;reserved=0
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
        healeys-request at autox.team.net

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed May 26 17:57:40 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 19:57:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
In-Reply-To: <69f229ae-c423-eaeb-7f36-aebc0de50c5b@htcnet.org>
References: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM_so3Yw0u8K-_Tg7gyUuOaYX4+mPrczV7sKU3Xt2_yJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <69f229ae-c423-eaeb-7f36-aebc0de50c5b@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6rCa0NEVbhxwBHc+8uNqmFUNYqBV8ACMod8q6Y_7yRrA@mail.gmail.com>

Richard--

One method of "Old School" tsetting timing (at idle) is to put a glass of
water on the valve cover and adjust the timing until the surface of the
water is smooth and free of ripples.  Aside from the fact that the valve
cover on Healeys is not flat I question what a smooth idle has to do with
WOT or high-end performance, but it does sound charming.  Another is to
retard until pinging occurs but I have heard and read that there is
something called "silent pinging".

When I set timing on my 100 I do it at high rpm's (2500 to 3000) with a
light and look for 34-35 degrees of advance.  Anything beyond that causes
my engine to overheat and sometimes I will take a degree or two off that if
engine temps suggest.

Best--Michael Oritt


I have heard (not seen) people

On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 5:16 PM John Vrugtman via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> way I used to do that was advance timing and test drive lugging in high
> gear, when pinging started, it was time to retard slightly to avoid
> pinging.  Worked fine.
>
> JAV
>
> On 5/26/2021 4:08 PM, richard mayor wrote:
>
> Some additional info for you listers about my post.  I do in fact have a
> timing light. I actually have two.  Please do not reply to me and tell me
> what the factory spec is or what the total advance should be or anything
> else you assume I don't know.  I simply have a keen interest in knowing
> about "old school"  techniques and how to apply them.
>
> On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 11:10 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> There was a discussion at the Conclave tech session about ignition
>> timing..... advancing the distributor to a certain point and then backing
>> off a certain amount..... without using a timing light.  I cannot remember
>> the specific details but I would like to try it.  Does anyone have the
>> exact details of the procedure?
>> Thanks,  Richard
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed May 26 18:57:37 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 20:57:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6rCa0NEVbhxwBHc+8uNqmFUNYqBV8ACMod8q6Y_7yRrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOd1jJ-U0idiSk1B_M4GhJnpZdLGwfRHjXeKPo_PFVWjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM_so3Yw0u8K-_Tg7gyUuOaYX4+mPrczV7sKU3Xt2_yJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <69f229ae-c423-eaeb-7f36-aebc0de50c5b@htcnet.org>
 <CAPTa0B6rCa0NEVbhxwBHc+8uNqmFUNYqBV8ACMod8q6Y_7yRrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLgyoQebupk+yEnoA2gEBznb=7rh1ira--MWk5caPF0aQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a wonderful book on engine technology from Repco, of Repco Brabham
fame. This book goes into ignition timing theory very extensively and
taught me that the only way to really set ignition timing correctly is
through many hours of dynamometer testing through the complete range of
engine speeds and load settings.
As someone mentioned "silent ping" or resonance can be a killer of engines
and only through exhaustive testing can such issues be eliminated.

M

On Wed., May 26, 2021, 7:59 p.m. Michael Oritt via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Richard--
>
> One method of "Old School" tsetting timing (at idle) is to put a glass of
> water on the valve cover and adjust the timing until the surface of the
> water is smooth and free of ripples.  Aside from the fact that the valve
> cover on Healeys is not flat I question what a smooth idle has to do with
> WOT or high-end performance, but it does sound charming.  Another is to
> retard until pinging occurs but I have heard and read that there is
> something called "silent pinging".
>
> When I set timing on my 100 I do it at high rpm's (2500 to 3000) with a
> light and look for 34-35 degrees of advance.  Anything beyond that causes
> my engine to overheat and sometimes I will take a degree or two off that if
> engine temps suggest.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> I have heard (not seen) people
>
> On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 5:16 PM John Vrugtman via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> way I used to do that was advance timing and test drive lugging in high
>> gear, when pinging started, it was time to retard slightly to avoid
>> pinging.  Worked fine.
>>
>> JAV
>>
>> On 5/26/2021 4:08 PM, richard mayor wrote:
>>
>> Some additional info for you listers about my post.  I do in fact have a
>> timing light. I actually have two.  Please do not reply to me and tell me
>> what the factory spec is or what the total advance should be or anything
>> else you assume I don't know.  I simply have a keen interest in knowing
>> about "old school"  techniques and how to apply them.
>>
>> On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 11:10 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> There was a discussion at the Conclave tech session about ignition
>>> timing..... advancing the distributor to a certain point and then backing
>>> off a certain amount..... without using a timing light.  I cannot remember
>>> the specific details but I would like to try it.  Does anyone have the
>>> exact details of the procedure?
>>> Thanks,  Richard
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Fri May 28 14:12:37 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 13:12:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker material
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOTJFXnEzo6C4sTRgh3Mbq0Eu11N2pNVT_8SWoOe-f+_A@mail.gmail.com>

I have made a prototype wind blocker for my 3000 using some left over
plexiglass.  But I need a suitable mesh fabric to really make it look
better.  I've had no luck so far with my search.  Any suggestions?
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Fri May 28 22:43:01 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 21:43:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door pull cables
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>

Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
BN2?  I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way.  I can
see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
the cable.  No problem there.  Just need a little info on how to mount the
cable at the mechanism.
Mike MacLean
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sat May 29 01:18:00 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 09:18:00 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Session at Conclave re: timing
Message-ID: <1401256175.469826.1622272680281@mail.ziggo.nl>

34 degrees advance is a fair bit. Around 30-32 would be more gentle to your big ends.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May 29 05:29:16 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 07:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door pull cables
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+W8FVaLs5NXdf_agdmXX6rc9b4-YBOL0b_bTrPb9jsxw@mail.gmail.com>

Do your handles have the correct bend in them to offset the cable run?
M

On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:43 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
> BN2?  I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
> lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
> line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way.  I can
> see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
> the cable.  No problem there.  Just need a little info on how to mount the
> cable at the mechanism.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May 29 09:22:55 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 11:22:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door pull cables
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKrLJCDBEud5M3ddEW6dYo8FLEm2S8a_R-e8JKcBeohgQ@mail.gmail.com>

The door latch mechanisms used on pre convertible Healeys were made by
Wilmot Breeden and fitted to numerous makes and models.
Many do not have the 2 bends in the operating arm like the Healeys as can
be seen in my pic.
That "offset" created by the 2 bends keeps the pull cable clear of the door
frame.
.
M

On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:43 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
> BN2?  I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
> lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
> line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way.  I can
> see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
> the cable.  No problem there.  Just need a little info on how to mount the
> cable at the mechanism.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat May 29 10:54:13 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 12:54:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door pull cables
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOPazEeQ2rZg2r56G0ut_-5dUdsz=oVSRgxxoN+m=gfbEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKrLJCDBEud5M3ddEW6dYo8FLEm2S8a_R-e8JKcBeohgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOPazEeQ2rZg2r56G0ut_-5dUdsz=oVSRgxxoN+m=gfbEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJNo5w3e3X1bq-PV2Q+Kiy5veL-HHyHpF0MgJOg9KLBoQ@mail.gmail.com>

I wouldn't think it would be too hard to bend the levers but 2 things.
1. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT to subject the die-cast parts to any force. They are
easily broken.
2. Check that your chrome handles do screw into the threaded holes in the
levers. Early cars were BSF later cars are UNF.

M

On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:44 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:

> OK, I must have the non-Healey mechanisms.  Lever with the threaded holes
> are not bent, but straight up.  That certainly explains the problem I am
> having.  Thanks Michael.  Would new latch mechanisms from the usual
> suppliers have the correct bend?  How easy is it to bend the ones in the
> car now?
> Mike M
>
> On Sat, May 29, 2021, 8:23 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The door latch mechanisms used on pre convertible Healeys were made by
>> Wilmot Breeden and fitted to numerous makes and models.
>> Many do not have the 2 bends in the operating arm like the Healeys as can
>> be seen in my pic.
>> That "offset" created by the 2 bends keeps the pull cable clear of the
>> door frame.
>> .
>> M
>>
>> On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:43 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
>>> BN2?  I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
>>> lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
>>> line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way.  I can
>>> see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
>>> the cable.  No problem there.  Just need a little info on how to mount the
>>> cable at the mechanism.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sat May 29 11:01:57 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 10:01:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door pull cables
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJNo5w3e3X1bq-PV2Q+Kiy5veL-HHyHpF0MgJOg9KLBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOm6FhCY9F0dxKzMKSPXehK4BsypRbWggjSOuaMq793cQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKrLJCDBEud5M3ddEW6dYo8FLEm2S8a_R-e8JKcBeohgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOPazEeQ2rZg2r56G0ut_-5dUdsz=oVSRgxxoN+m=gfbEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJNo5w3e3X1bq-PV2Q+Kiy5veL-HHyHpF0MgJOg9KLBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <nms4bgtf798m3ubcp8u57b81rvmoom6gqo@4ax.com>

The Moss replacements I bought a year or two ago did have the bends.
And for whatever reason, the threading matched my original handles.

-Roland
BN1 #724

On Sat, 29 May 2021 12:54:13 -0400, you wrote:

>I wouldn't think it would be too hard to bend the levers but 2 things.
>1. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT to subject the die-cast parts to any force. They are
>easily broken.
>2. Check that your chrome handles do screw into the threaded holes in the
>levers. Early cars were BSF later cars are UNF.
>
>M
>
>On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:44 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
>springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, I must have the non-Healey mechanisms.  Lever with the threaded holes
>> are not bent, but straight up.  That certainly explains the problem I am
>> having.  Thanks Michael.  Would new latch mechanisms from the usual
>> suppliers have the correct bend?  How easy is it to bend the ones in the
>> car now?
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Sat, May 29, 2021, 8:23 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The door latch mechanisms used on pre convertible Healeys were made by
>>> Wilmot Breeden and fitted to numerous makes and models.
>>> Many do not have the 2 bends in the operating arm like the Healeys as can
>>> be seen in my pic.
>>> That "offset" created by the 2 bends keeps the pull cable clear of the
>>> door frame.
>>> .
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sat., May 29, 2021, 12:43 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Can someone tell me how and where to attach the door pull cables on my
>>>> BN2?  I have been trying to put it under the flange of the chrome door
>>>> lever where it screws into the door shut mechanism, but it does not seem to
>>>> line up. The flanges of the inner door frame seem to be in the way.  I can
>>>> see the hole at the other end (front of door frame) for the other end of
>>>> the cable.  No problem there.  Just need a little info on how to mount the
>>>> cable at the mechanism.
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
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>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May 29 21:15:34 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 20:15:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave round trip
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_6JnESMd9_js53zPVv43h3Q0x9HRzUnbTKANs4yVsnkg@mail.gmail.com>

I just did the math as my speedo.odometer died during my trip.
 I covered 2661 miles RT to Conclave and \back home, took a grand tour of
California on my way home. Blew out my muffler and ran a bit hot going too
fast up a grade, but she ran straight and true.
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu May 27 18:15:45 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2021 20:15:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB1855CD40336AB5BD135B2238AB2C9@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <000001d74d00$1049cdd0$30dd6970$@shaw.ca>
 <CAPTa0B7qF1u32zTnP8ar9ELxb-4_f3wz8ZrsuunqFcAbPop78A@mail.gmail.com>
 <9920cd00-8681-9aa6-da0e-d005822f6e1f@earthlink.net>
 <00eb01d74e8e$f0a6ba20$d1f42e60$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwFosdPoKJBNvvvsN3oVyMX-feJD01ox1BQ2wiaMt2n_rg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bruce:

I know you value originality on your car, but I recommend adding a center
high mounted third brake light. On my blue BT-7 I didn't drill holes and
just adhered it to a magnet. It's an LED unit, and quite bright.


On Tue, May 25, 2021, 7:18 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> This is a timely thread, as I was just talking yesterday with the expert
> panel at Conclave about this issue after I nearly got rear ended in Big
> Bear because my brake lights are not coming on until the pedal is depressed
> nearly half way.  Turns out Russ Thompson has converted several cars to a
> mechanical, pedal actuated switch with a simple bracket attached to the
> cross member/heater duct.  I will be pursuing this over Memorial Day
> weekend.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Haskell via Healeys
> Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2021 5:20 PM
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; kags at shaw.ca
> Cc: Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>; Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake light switch
>
> For some reason, "--will" was added to the end of the link Michael gave:
>
>
> https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressure-Activated,391417.html
>
> I believe that the non-servo brake light switches (screws terminal or
> lucar connectors) have a tapered thread, no copper sealing washer required.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 5/19/21 7:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> > This
> > link--https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-P
> > ressure-Activated,391417.html--will
> > <https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Accel-181101-Brake-Light-Switch-Pressu
> > re-Activated,391417.html--will> take you to the Speedway site and the
> > Accel brake switch shown is touted to be American-made and useable on
> > Harleys, so perhaps this is what the original poster is looking for.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 6:43 PM Earl Kagna via Healeys
> > <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> >
> >     Hi Brian:
> >
> >     Yes, there was a problem years ago with brake light switches.  It
> >     may have been related to a lot of people switching to silicone
> >     brake fluid.
> >
> >     I don?t recall anything about a Harley switch being compatible,
> >     but some of us tried Volkswagen switches that worked well.  I do
> >     recall one BJ8 owner here that eventually gave up and installed a
> >     micro switch kit from a hotrodder supplier that permanently fixed
> >     the problem.
> >
> >     I have replaced 3 (or maybe 4) brake light switches in the last 2-
> >     3 years ? all on BJ8?s ? including on my own, and on our friend
> >     DM?s car, and all seems well.  The word is that the parts now
> >     being supplied are better.  These switches came in Interpart boxes
> >     and were sourced from Bob Yule at Autofarm in Ontario ? they were
> >     not particularly expensive.
> >
> >     Be aware that there are 2 different switches used on the big
> >     Healey (6 cyl) up to and including the very early BJ8?s ? uses a
> >     copper sealing washer ? with screw type wire terminals, and the
> >     later BJ8 which I believe is a taper thread seal with fast-on
> >     terminals.
> >
> >     I have not seen Roger?s articles that Jean mentioned, but I?ll bet
> >     that all pertinent information that is possible will be there -
> >     knowing Roger!
> >
> >     Earl Kagna
> >
> >     Victoria BC
> >
> >     BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
> >
> >     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> >     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab
> >     via Healeys
> >     *Sent:* Tuesday, May 18, 2021 4:00 PM
> >     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake light switch
> >
> >     I recall several years ago that there was a discussion on the poor
> >     quality of Healey brake light switches. At that time several
> >     people advised that a Harley brake light switch worked and worked
> >     better than the original.
> >
> >     I tried checking the archives but I don?t know how to check by
> >     subject rather date ? if it can even be done. What I need to know
> >     is either the Harley part number or the years and model Harley
> >     that the switches are from. Can anyone help.
> >
> >     Brian Drab
> >
> >     BJ8
> >
> >
> >     <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> >
> >       Virus-free. www.avast.com
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> > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_
> > campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> >
> >
> >     <#m_-8535853507729815102_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> >     _______________________________________________
> >     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> >     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
> >     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> >     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> >     Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> >
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Best--Michael
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat May 29 22:23:32 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 21:23:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave round trip
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_6JnESMd9_js53zPVv43h3Q0x9HRzUnbTKANs4yVsnkg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_6JnESMd9_js53zPVv43h3Q0x9HRzUnbTKANs4yVsnkg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c1ada3ad-b376-4bcf-da4f-1c71dadcd899@comcast.net>

Congrats!

Your odo likely stripped its driven gear.

Bob


On 5/29/2021 8:15 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> I just did the math as my speedo.odometer died during my trip.
> ?I covered 2661 miles RT to Conclave and \back home, took a grand tour 
> of California on my way home. Blew out my muffler and ran a bit hot 
> going too fast up a grade, but she ran straight and true.
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat May 29 22:44:34 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 21:44:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] conclave round trip
In-Reply-To: <c1ada3ad-b376-4bcf-da4f-1c71dadcd899@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz8_6JnESMd9_js53zPVv43h3Q0x9HRzUnbTKANs4yVsnkg@mail.gmail.com>
 <c1ada3ad-b376-4bcf-da4f-1c71dadcd899@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88f07Tnvwi41e27byfM29X0q3AO_VgUPXT5H-SKKpnxkQ@mail.gmail.com>

Will look into it next week.
The speedo cable spins freely removed from the speedo end.
I need to get it up in the air to check all the suspension bolts

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, May 29, 2021, 9:24 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Congrats!
>
> Your odo likely stripped its driven gear.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/29/2021 8:15 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
>
> I just did the math as my speedo.odometer died during my trip.
>  I covered 2661 miles RT to Conclave and \back home, took a grand tour of
> California on my way home. Blew out my muffler and ran a bit hot going too
> fast up a grade, but she ran straight and true.
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sat May 29 23:26:51 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2021 22:26:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
Message-ID: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>

Greetings.  In the fairly recent past someone posted that they are
reproducing the clutch slave bleeder extension.  I found the conversation
regarding clutch bleeding in January, but nothing on the extension pipe.
Could someone please refresh me on that?  A fellow club member would like to
install one.

 

Many thanks.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun May 30 08:01:06 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 07:01:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
In-Reply-To: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>
References: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <5983397E-E4BD-41DD-8C7A-A282AC9609DF@sbcglobal.net>

Bruce,  We are making one

David Nock



> On May 29, 2021, at 10:26 PM, Bruce Steele via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Greetings.  In the fairly recent past someone posted that they are reproducing the clutch slave bleeder extension.  I found the conversation regarding clutch bleeding in January, but nothing on the extension pipe.  Could someone please refresh me on that?  A fellow club member would like to install one.
>  
> Many thanks.
>  
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
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From jnew at hazelden.ca  Sun May 30 08:44:07 2021
From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 10:44:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
In-Reply-To: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>
References: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <3598435.kQq0lBPeGt@johnpc>

At the beginning of May, Bob Haskell, a long-time list member, said that he had reproduced a couple dozen of Doug Reid's 6 cylinder clutch slave bleeder extensions and is selling them for $35.00 plus shipping.

Bob's post can be found in the list archives here: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys/2021-May/078681.html

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada

On Sunday, May 30, 2021 1:26:51 AM EDT Bruce Steele via Healeys wrote:
> Greetings.  In the fairly recent past someone posted that they are
> reproducing the clutch slave bleeder extension.  I found the conversation
> regarding clutch bleeding in January, but nothing on the extension pipe.
> Could someone please refresh me on that?  A fellow club member would like to
> install one.
> 
>  
> 
> Many thanks.
> 
>  
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
>  
> 
> 





From manifold at telus.net  Sun May 30 10:15:48 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 09:15:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
In-Reply-To: <3598435.kQq0lBPeGt@johnpc>
References: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>,
 <3598435.kQq0lBPeGt@johnpc>
Message-ID: <42B82FB3-AB9C-4289-AA52-7EE6E89D5126@hxcore.ol>

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun May 30 11:26:38 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 13:26:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
In-Reply-To: <42B82FB3-AB9C-4289-AA52-7EE6E89D5126@hxcore.ol>
References: <02e301d75514$65787920$30696b60$@roadrunner.com>
 <3598435.kQq0lBPeGt@johnpc> <42B82FB3-AB9C-4289-AA52-7EE6E89D5126@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <d5c2cff3-2459-9479-d201-79d55694e3a1@earthlink.net>

Harold,

I like it.? The proper length hose and the straight bracket is simpler / 
easier to do than the bent brake line and bracket/rubber tube.? But will 
it interfere with the firewall?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/30/21 12:15 PM, Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote:
>
> Riff on the original clutch bleeder.
>
> Here is another option made from readily accessible parts.
>
> Harold
>
> *From: *John P. New <mailto:jnew at hazelden.ca>
> *Sent: *Sunday, May 30, 2021 7:44 AM
> *To: *Austin Healey <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>; 
> healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bruce Steele 
> <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
>
> At the beginning of May, Bob Haskell, a long-time list member, said 
> that he had reproduced a couple dozen of Doug Reid's 6 cylinder clutch 
> slave bleeder extensions and is selling them for $35.00 plus shipping.
>
> Bob's post can be found in the list archives here: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys/2021-May/078681.html
>
> John P. New
>
> London, Ontario, Canada
>
> On Sunday, May 30, 2021 1:26:51 AM EDT Bruce Steele via Healeys wrote:
>
> > Greetings.? In the fairly recent past someone posted that they are
>
> > reproducing the clutch slave bleeder extension.? I found the 
> conversation
>
> > regarding clutch bleeding in January, but nothing on the extension pipe.
>
> > Could someone please refresh me on that?? A fellow club member would 
> like to
>
> > install one.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Many thanks.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Bruce Steele
>
> >
>
> > Brea, CA
>
> >
>
> > 1960 BN7
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun May 30 11:28:32 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 10:28:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension
Message-ID: <F1E31048-7FB7-48FD-B047-5FA1ED549497@hxcore.ol>

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun May 30 11:43:13 2021
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 17:43:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [OT]HWY395 Redux
In-Reply-To: <536dd8f7-29a6-d02c-89e5-5c09acc452e5@comcast.net>
References: <536dd8f7-29a6-d02c-89e5-5c09acc452e5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CO1PR10MB4770043DDD52ADB1904365A8A4209@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

I had a pleasant and easy drive to Big Bear down 395. Mostly 4 lane with hardly any traffic or trucks. Also very scenic.
Coming home I drove I-5. It scared the crap out of me for 5 hours. The road was not maintained with huge potholes. Countless big rigs to pass caused erratic steering problems. It was not scenic and I was afraid to take my eyes off the road anyway.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2021, at 9:33 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Given the recent discussion on Hwy 395 as a suitable course to Conclave I (re-)found this site I'd bookmarked a while ago. Road looks to be paved; looks like it would be an interesting day/side trip.
> 
> https://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/california-ghost-town-tiktok-underwood-cerro-gordo-15970036.php?IPID=SFGate-HP-CP-Spotlight
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun May 30 13:03:00 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 12:03:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT]HWY395 Redux
In-Reply-To: <CO1PR10MB4770043DDD52ADB1904365A8A4209@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <536dd8f7-29a6-d02c-89e5-5c09acc452e5@comcast.net>
 <CO1PR10MB4770043DDD52ADB1904365A8A4209@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89-uh+ZkBCHirzCxOpfEFpKjhBYM7JnLuHq9zmyabY9gg@mail.gmail.com>

I concur
395 was great. In fact the only rough roads I encountered were in Lassen
County. On the other Hand the 210 east to LA was a terrible road, beat the
hell out of my car, as did most of the A roads in California. Add strong
winds  and semi-trucks into the mix and it was scary as hell.At least 101/1
allowed me to drive safely under the speed limit. I need to get under my
car and check all the shock and suspension bolts. Back In Oregon, I could
once again enjoy the views. I got off 101 and drove the old Redwood Hwy so
I could breath in the tall trees
Glad you made it home
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Sun, May 30, 2021 at 11:18 AM Richard Kahn via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I had a pleasant and easy drive to Big Bear down 395. Mostly 4 lane with
> hardly any traffic or trucks. Also very scenic.
> Coming home I drove I-5. It scared the crap out of me for 5 hours. The
> road was not maintained with huge potholes. Countless big rigs to pass
> caused erratic steering problems. It was not scenic and I was afraid to
> take my eyes off the road anyway.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 23, 2021, at 9:33 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > ?Given the recent discussion on Hwy 395 as a suitable course to Conclave
> I (re-)found this site I'd bookmarked a while ago. Road looks to be paved;
> looks like it would be an interesting day/side trip.
> >
> >
> https://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/california-ghost-town-tiktok-underwood-cerro-gordo-15970036.php?IPID=SFGate-HP-CP-Spotlight
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Mon May 31 18:32:21 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 20:32:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD Switch
Message-ID: <01858CBD-EC08-48F1-9AC9-6523D878167B@gmail.com>

I installed a shift knob that incorporated the od switch. It has worked perfectly. Since then I had my trans/od rebuilt by Glenn?s MG in St. Peterson FL - GREAT job and highly recommend!

Prior to the rebuild, the switch worked perfectly - down off, up on. When I reinstalled the switch-shift knob the on and off are opposite -on down and up off. I like it better the old way.  It works perfectly, just up side down. Any ideas on how this could have happened and how to cure it?  The wiring in the car was not changed nor has the solenoid. 

Thank you for any help. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Mon May 31 18:56:58 2021
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2021 00:56:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
In-Reply-To: <1881170468.655901.1622049336645@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <a6ff382f3244046843ad389e1af6e9182824545c@webmail>
 <DM6PR17MB25073DDC3B2028C5AE12AAACD1549@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <1881170468.655901.1622049336645@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <339603289.3228698.1622509018425@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hello again Steve,
Well, like The Deep, my garage is starting to give up its secrets, as the bonnet catch surfaced today, as attached.
Incidentally, I didn't find markings of any kind on the hinge jamb of the glovebox door as Jean suggested.
Regards, D

    On Wednesday, 26 May 2021, 12:56:50 GMT-7, David Lodge via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
  Hello Steve,
As promised, an ALMOST complete set of numbers from my BJ8.? (The bonnet catch mechanism has failed to materialise in the 
several dozen cardboard storage boxes that I've managed to ransack so far!. The whole thing is missing from the pull-rod 
- which I've always thought to be a very primitive, not to say ineffective, arrangement - to the catch.? Very peculiar!)? If and when 
it materialises, I'll forward it to you.
Meanwhile................................


    On Monday, 10 May 2021, 16:37:59 GMT-7, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv8825992240 -- filtered {}#yiv8825992240 filtered {}#yiv8825992240 filtered {}#yiv8825992240 p.yiv8825992240MsoNormal, #yiv8825992240 li.yiv8825992240MsoNormal, #yiv8825992240 div.yiv8825992240MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8825992240 a:link, #yiv8825992240 span.yiv8825992240MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8825992240 .yiv8825992240MsoChpDefault {}#yiv8825992240 filtered {}#yiv8825992240 div.yiv8825992240WordSection1 {}#yiv8825992240 
I believe that the ?mystery number? was stamped there by the frame manufacturer and do not relate to any other number on the car.

On BJ8, the Jensen number is also on the bottom ledge of the glovebox cover, if you open the glovebox, you can read the number with a mirror.

 ?
 
Jean

 ?
 
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?
 
From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: May 10, 2021 6:28 PM
To: 'BJ8Healeys'
Cc: 'Austin Healey'; 'David Lodge'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

 ?
 
Steve-I checked the locations on my original 66 BJ8 35516 and found "0224" in three places.? I did not find a frame number marked next to the shock tower. Cannot equate that number to anything else on the car. Its not body or batch, but some of those locations are a Jensen spot for markings. If someone was to replace the bonnet latch mounting, they threw out the number. Regards, Hank
 
-----------------------------------------

From: "BJ8Healeys" 
To: "David Lodge"
Cc: "Austin Healey"
Sent: Monday May 10 2021 8:39:35AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?

David, I don't know for sure, but it's my understanding that the frames were built by John Thompson Motor Pressings.? Frequently this number has been partially obscured by weld bead.? Jensen put their number on the body plate, as well as another number in three places:? the fixed part of the bonnet latch, just in front of the radiator; on the driver's side (in reference to LHC cars) bonnet flange where the hinge is bolted; and on the underside of the boot lid where the prop rod attaches (example photos attached).
 
My guess is that the number you show was put there by the frame manufacturer.? I haven't been able to connect the number to any other number on the car.
 
 ?
 
BTW:? I have been doing a study of the "Jensen numbers" in the three places cited above.? It would be helpful to be able to document as many of them as possible.? So far, I have them for 222 BJ8s.? They do have a relation to the VIN of a car, but a closer correspondence with the body number.? Any BJ8 owners who wants to contribute to the database of these numbers to help us understand more about them should send me a photo of what you find on your BJ8, if possible.? If not, then just send the numbers to me.? I also need the chassis number and body number of the car.
 
 ?
 
Thanks!
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC? USA
 
-----------------------------------------

From: "David Lodge via Healeys"
To: "Austin Healey"
Cc: "David Lodge"
Sent: Sunday May 9 2021 11:24:18PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 mystery number?
 
Can anyone please tell me what this number signifies?? It's at the right-hand end of the front cross-member, just in front of the shock tower.
 
 ?
 
A Jensen body works code, I'll hazard.
 
 ?
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon May 31 19:30:12 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 21:30:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD Switch
In-Reply-To: <01858CBD-EC08-48F1-9AC9-6523D878167B@gmail.com>
References: <01858CBD-EC08-48F1-9AC9-6523D878167B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e31eeaf4-c289-fb23-75a6-665fdd51d222@earthlink.net>

Price,

The switch got turned around.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 5/31/21 8:32 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
> I installed a shift knob that incorporated the od switch. It has worked perfectly. Since then I had my trans/od rebuilt by Glenn?s MG in St. Peterson FL - GREAT job and highly recommend!
>
> Prior to the rebuild, the switch worked perfectly - down off, up on. When I reinstalled the switch-shift knob the on and off are opposite -on down and up off. I like it better the old way.  It works perfectly, just up side down. Any ideas on how this could have happened and how to cure it?  The wiring in the car was not changed nor has the solenoid.
>
> Thank you for any help.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon May 31 20:40:52 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 19:40:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] OD Switch
In-Reply-To: <01858CBD-EC08-48F1-9AC9-6523D878167B@gmail.com>
References: <01858CBD-EC08-48F1-9AC9-6523D878167B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5b6eeec5-d80e-2616-4c3e-7913d30f633a@comcast.net>

'Perfect' is in the eye of the Healey driver: My BN2 activates the O/D 
in the up position; my BJ8--with both a dash switch and a (DWM) knob 
switch--activates the O/D with the switch down. Yes, I get confused when 
I 'switch' (heh) from car to car. The BJ8 switches are wired in 
parallel, throw either switch down and the O/D activates, but both 
switches have to be up to deactivate it.

The O/D switch is an 'SPST'--Single Pole, Single Throw--switch, the 
simplest of all manual electrical switches. Like Bob H. suggested, the 
only way this happened is the switch got reversed in the knob. The DWM 
knob has a small set screw and a 'cap,' I haven't tried, but I presume 
the switch could be replaced if necessary.

Bob

On 5/31/2021 5:32 PM, R. Lindsay via Healeys wrote:
> I installed a shift knob that incorporated the od switch. It has worked perfectly. Since then I had my trans/od rebuilt by Glenn?s MG in St. Peterson FL - GREAT job and highly recommend!
>
> Prior to the rebuild, the switch worked perfectly - down off, up on. When I reinstalled the switch-shift knob the on and off are opposite -on down and up off. I like it better the old way.  It works perfectly, just up side down. Any ideas on how this could have happened and how to cure it?  The wiring in the car was not changed nor has the solenoid.
>
> Thank you for any help.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
>