[Healeys] Fuses

[Bob Spidell]

I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for 
instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking 
power, more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit; some 
have 600A or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700). An 
inductive load, like a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all current 
available for a split second, until inductance increases impedance. You 
might very well blow this fuse every time you try to start your car.

There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the 
conclusion was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The 
simpler answer is to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a lot 
of damage can happen even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge, most/all 
modern cars have no protection on starter systems either.

Bob

On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the AHCA New 
> England chapter, one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from 
> the battery to the the starter grounding out against the chassis, the 
> insulation worn out from decades of chaffing.   Needless to say, lots 
> of smoke and heat were generated.
>
> After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories 
> like this.   Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse?   Fuses like 
> this style 500A fuse 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4> range 
> from 30A to 600A.   That seems like enough power to run the starter 
> and still provide protection against direct short damage.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> - Tom
>

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