[Healeys] 100 water pumps

[Michael Salter]

There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly against a
face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located in a bronze
"holder" on top of the diaphragm seal.
The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly in
use.
I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts
are really hard to find these days.
M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is
> the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like
> plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste
> could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing
> spacing.
> On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing
> spacer to compensate for the additional space.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
> seal?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
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