From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Mar  1 01:10:22 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 08:10:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-JHo03AYL8vd9WFHtvB2Q8+AcX4iXt-nLhNssMq_CU6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <274803719.1437059.1614569179322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz8-JHo03AYL8vd9WFHtvB2Q8+AcX4iXt-nLhNssMq_CU6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1295882552.1494841.1614586222750@mail.yahoo.com>

Russ rebuilt my BN2 transmission late last year.? I just talked to him on the phone a couple of days ago.? He is real busy at the moment.? You might have to wait a bit to get your trans rebuilt, but quick turn around when he does take it though.? I'd say give him a call anyway.? Best British car mechanic in Socal in my humble opinion.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:44 PM, i erbs via Healeys<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar  1 04:33:54 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 19:33:54 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Push Button Solenoid - cast body repair?
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJSA9uUHj8u+bRe9TR24L4X2nJKs-VxTaKc+TnAOwwp8w@mail.gmail.com>

All -

The original solenoid on my '51 A90 is finally starting to fail, I can get
it to work by twisting the the button around until I find a part of the
solenoid that will make good contact, but it's not ideal.

I was wondering if it's possible to disassemble the cast metal solenoids
and repair them?  It's a rare original item so I'd like to keep it
operating if I can.

Otherwise I can just replace it with the standard solenoid available now.

Best Regards,

Alan
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Mar  1 09:31:10 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 08:31:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission
In-Reply-To: <1295882552.1494841.1614586222750@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <274803719.1437059.1614569179322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz8-JHo03AYL8vd9WFHtvB2Q8+AcX4iXt-nLhNssMq_CU6w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1295882552.1494841.1614586222750@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89o9dW6fP0Qy0Hvh+Df+0txPZbzJ4U5dSQ5xbqvVS47eQ@mail.gmail.com>

Good to know my old friend is still doing well.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Mon, Mar 1, 2021, 12:10 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Russ rebuilt my BN2 transmission late last year.  I just talked to him on
> the phone a couple of days ago.  He is real busy at the moment.  You might
> have to wait a bit to get your trans rebuilt, but quick turn around when he
> does take it though.  I'd say give him a call anyway.  Best British car
> mechanic in Socal in my humble opinion.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:44 PM, i erbs via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
>
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Mar  2 22:18:47 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2021 21:18:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?throttle_linkage?=
Message-ID: <20210303051847.36721.qmail@server278.com>

BT7 with sticking throttle linkage.  assumed it needed lubrication so shot some oil onto the linkage.  now the accelerator 
relay shaft lever (#38 page 40 moss catalog) is slipping on the shaft and can only get half throttle.  anyone have any ideas 
on how to tighten the bolt without removing the engine.  pretty tight up in there.  

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar  2 22:26:05 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2021 21:26:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <20210303051847.36721.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210303051847.36721.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <8a0a3170-5dc6-78b8-652d-5a1521825504@comcast.net>

 From underneath, with a socket, ratchet and several 'wobble' extensions?

On 3/2/2021 9:18 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> BT7 with sticking throttle linkage.  assumed it needed lubrication so shot some oil onto the linkage.  now the accelerator
> relay shaft lever (#38 page 40 moss catalog) is slipping on the shaft and can only get half throttle.  anyone have any ideas
> on how to tighten the bolt without removing the engine.  pretty tight up in there.
>


From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Wed Mar  3 15:56:49 2021
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2021 22:56:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <8a0a3170-5dc6-78b8-652d-5a1521825504@comcast.net>
References: <20210303051847.36721.qmail@server278.com>
 <8a0a3170-5dc6-78b8-652d-5a1521825504@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1513218127.353059.1614812209723@mail.yahoo.com>

Once you remove the bolts replace them with allen head bolts for easier reassembly?

Jim WernerLouisville, KY

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Mar 3, 2021 12:26 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] throttle linkage

 From underneath, with a socket, ratchet and several 'wobble' extensions?

On 3/2/2021 9:18 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> BT7 with sticking throttle linkage.? assumed it needed lubrication so shot some oil onto the linkage.? now the accelerator
> relay shaft lever (#38 page 40 moss catalog) is slipping on the shaft and can only get half throttle.? anyone have any ideas
> on how to tighten the bolt without removing the engine.? pretty tight up in there.
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Mar  5 02:26:20 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2021 17:26:20 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJCuynQ_5v6UpUPG77c4nNHV=zaYDexGvJYO8=DVA8U+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <9309edb9-6bea-a015-80b9-cdda24953012@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkJCuynQ_5v6UpUPG77c4nNHV=zaYDexGvJYO8=DVA8U+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+vGWwkFx5hD-KgU_5R4E6izanz=UJ_=SqpCdfgi2MxFw@mail.gmail.com>

Just some feedback on this  -

Basically, you should install the banjo bolt w/oil feed pipe onto the
rocker BEFORE installing the rocker onto the head.  This will make sure the
banjo doesn't strip out the pedestal when it doesn't line up with the
rocker shaft oil feed hole.

I was able to source a new pedestal, and it went on no problem.  The outer
pedestals are a slight interference fit and was tapped off with a plastic
mallot, the inner pedestals come right off.

All fixed now.

Alan

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:56 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob -
>
> I had them do it maybe about 12 years ago, but for various reasons I
> haven't put much miles on the car since then.  Getting it back together so
> I can enjoy it now.
>
> I think the easy thing to do is just order a pedestal from the usual and
> replace it myself.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:52 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hah. I was going to suggest you send it to rockerarms.com, but figured
>> shipping would be prohibitive.
>>
>> BTW, when did rockerarms rebuild your shaft? There's been at least one
>> change of ownership and a name change, I think, and responses have been
>> spotty. They did my BJ8's shaft many years ago, and it's held up well.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 2/27/2021 7:44 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> All -
>>
>> Okay I got alot of great feedback, thank you.  Took the rocker off and
>> the pedestals slide around.   Was a bit confused at first because this is
>> for my A90, and I have a spare a90 rocker from 1949 which is different, and
>> on that one the rocker pedestals are an interference fit (the rocker arms
>> and pushrods on an early A90 are really cool, but complicated... they
>> eliminate tappet noise but are too fiddly and complicated).
>>
>> But my A90 actually has a later motor which is the same as a 100, and I
>> have a rebuilt rocker on it from rockerarms.com.
>>
>> It seems the two inner pedestals are free floating, and the two outer
>> pedestals have a slight interference - I think the interference fit is to
>> hold the shaft in placeso that the banjo bolt will go in the hole on the
>> shaft.  I can remove the outer pedestals off with a slight tapping with a
>> rubber mallot.
>>
>> Anyway, hope that helps.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:18 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer
>>> them on when hot?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> All -
>>>>
>>>> either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my
>>>> rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.
>>>>
>>>> Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I
>>>> can replace the broken one?
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  5 09:54:48 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2021 16:54:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 front shroud lip bolts
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881C3E59358DE2FE99FBE12D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

On the 100, was the front lower shroud lip attached with bolts and nuts,  or pan head Phillip machine screws and nuts? And what is the orientation, nut top or bottom? Also same question for the bracket that attaches the frame to the shroud? I have seen both, and would like to know how it was from the factory.
Thanks all. Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  5 10:00:40 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2021 17:00:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 06:57:30 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 08:57:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>

After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.

On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar  6 08:16:48 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:16:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that seal?


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.

On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 09:10:47 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 11:10:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLTsfcD-p+nidAmMjn_MMTLXvq+ak1QSVfgEpoS+YHs=Q@mail.gmail.com>

No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.
On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing
spacer to compensate for the additional space.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
> seal?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  6 09:42:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 08:42:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>

I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a 
very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford 
stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was 
(essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I 
use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the 
radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting 
coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket 
fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, 
etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered 
spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link 
to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the 
cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove 
it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine 
probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to 
one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my 
BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their 
pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate 
seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an 
uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still 
hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an 
option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be 
improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the 
cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big 
of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little 
airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and 
the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the 
same problem.

Bob

On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I 
> decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed 
> bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which 
> all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to 
> install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car 
> awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and
>     need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass
>     tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it
>     actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated.
>     Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>     TY, Shawn
>
>     The Millers
>
>     "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
>     test drive."
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 10:20:24 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 12:20:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
cooling system not being "large" enough.
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

M

M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
>> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
>> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
>> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>> TY, Shawn
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Mar  6 10:58:30 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 09:58:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bolt - plate to block
Message-ID: <3BB14550002C4BFA8A72D39E2DDC45FD@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
There are 11 bolts, Part No. AEC478 to mount the rear engine plate to block.
What size is AEC478 and is it a special thread?
 
Thanks in advance.... Harold
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 12:25:22 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 14:25:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bolt - plate to block
In-Reply-To: <3BB14550002C4BFA8A72D39E2DDC45FD@AllInOne>
References: <3BB14550002C4BFA8A72D39E2DDC45FD@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+wEKPpFO7uRaZD1uc=mg2zSR+X24gv0ejEbovR3-KO+Q@mail.gmail.com>

Harold they are Very High Tensile strength bolts (65-75 tons/ Sq.in) Grade
"V" should appear on the head.
Not your average Grade 5.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 12:59 p.m. Harold Manifold via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> There are 11 bolts, Part No. AEC478 to mount the rear engine plate to
> block. What size is AEC478 and is it a special thread?
>
> Thanks in advance.... Harold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar  6 12:35:36 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 19:35:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLTsfcD-p+nidAmMjn_MMTLXvq+ak1QSVfgEpoS+YHs=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LLTsfcD-p+nidAmMjn_MMTLXvq+ak1QSVfgEpoS+YHs=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.
On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to compensate for the additional space.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that seal?


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.

On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 12:59:18 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 14:59:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLTsfcD-p+nidAmMjn_MMTLXvq+ak1QSVfgEpoS+YHs=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJsu8+-swFUKrSyPi=NtKWS9TtLVEkBk56uE3Wg5aqXGQ@mail.gmail.com>

There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly against a
face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located in a bronze
"holder" on top of the diaphragm seal.
The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly in
use.
I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts
are really hard to find these days.
M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is
> the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like
> plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste
> could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing
> spacing.
> On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing
> spacer to compensate for the additional space.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
> seal?
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 13:01:35 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:01:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJsu8+-swFUKrSyPi=NtKWS9TtLVEkBk56uE3Wg5aqXGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F2A19E51297149973ACCD4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLTsfcD-p+nidAmMjn_MMTLXvq+ak1QSVfgEpoS+YHs=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL0PR04MB4881F22A107AC5DD3FFCB3D5D4959@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJsu8+-swFUKrSyPi=NtKWS9TtLVEkBk56uE3Wg5aqXGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLRq7XjpS27_9WnGhYbEkaAf7RviH3VrNwB5sySY_+=cw@mail.gmail.com>

Titled pic


On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:59 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
> The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
> The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly against a
> face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located in a bronze
> "holder" on top of the diaphragm seal.
> The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly in
> use.
> I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts
> are really hard to find these days.
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is
>> the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like
>> plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste
>> could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?
>>
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
>> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>
>> No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing
>> spacing.
>> On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing
>> spacer to compensate for the additional space.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
>> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
>> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
>> seal?
>>
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
>> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>
>> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided
>> to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
>> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which
>> all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to
>> install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
>> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car
>> awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>>
>> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
>> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
>> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
>> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>> TY, Shawn
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  6 13:06:52 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 20:06:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>

GentlemenInteresting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.? The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack of fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.? CFM is a big part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising (2500 RPM).? Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air flow is increased do to the car moving forward.?I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. Can't hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large" enough. 
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
M

M

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
 
https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
 
 Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).
 
 ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
 
 Bob
 
 On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
  
 After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings. I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.? After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.  
  On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
  What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed? TY, Shawn 
  The Millers
 ?
 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
   
 
  
 
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Mar  6 13:26:56 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2021 20:26:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
Message-ID: <d43ee684c384e3ec04730c7db60cb107aa416d87@webmail>

A great machinist, and friend of mine, rebuilt my 100 water pump with
a common argicultrial equipment seal and I believe a Delrin plastic
bush. Its rock solid. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "S and T Miller"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Saturday March 6 2021 12:11:31PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

  Titled pic 

 On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:59 PM Michael Salter  wrote:
   There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
 The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
 The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly
against a face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is
located in a bronze "holder" on top of the diaphragm seal. The bronze
holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly in use.
 I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but
parts are really hard to find these days.
 M

 On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller  wrote:
   Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car.
What is the original seal material made of? It's not metallic, and
feels like plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve
lapping paste could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far
gone? 

 The Millers

 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive."

-------------------------
FROM: Michael Salter 
SENT: Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
TO: S and T Miller 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps     No I left the seal out but
left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing.  On one of the others
I deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to
compensate for the additional space. 
 M  
 On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller,  wrote:
   That is awesome. Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I
ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to
contain the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did
you still use that seal? 

 The Millers

 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive."

-------------------------
FROM: Michael Salter 
SENT: Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
TO: S and T Miller 
CC: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps     After a couple of premature
failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding
them with a modern seal and sealed bearings. I have some concerns
about the small size of the annulus through which all the coolant must
pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.  After bench
testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test
drive as soon as the snow is gone.  
 On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys,  wrote:
   What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and
need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap
can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it
actually looks like the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can
anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed? TY, Shawn 
 The Millers

 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive."
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 13:28:18 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:28:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJKPkfr+9gyeR2iN_sx6q7RjOupwduLngiPFUJVRfE2yw@mail.gmail.com>

I think there is a lot to what you say Perry.
We have to remember that the 100 was designed and built in days where
traffic jams were relatively unusual and overheating while cruising is
pretty unusual.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 3:06 p.m. , <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Gentlemen
> Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare
> is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.  The 1955
> T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three bladed
> fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either.
> Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch
> blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable
> idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack of
> fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.  CFM is a big
> part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising
> (2500 RPM).  Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air
> flow is increased do to the car moving forward.
> I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. Can't
> hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>
> M
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 13:34:26 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 15:34:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <d43ee684c384e3ec04730c7db60cb107aa416d87@webmail>
References: <d43ee684c384e3ec04730c7db60cb107aa416d87@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKXuqFvMzsQL6zjU_=TLteoqa63qMZwyvXtzeAT=FSpXA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes probably very similar to the 19mm one that I  used Hank. Ceramic seal
running on what looks like Delrin.
It can only be used in 100 pumps that have a keyed impeller.
If you have a pressed on impeller 22mm is required unless you want to risk
trying to get the impeller off and yes some trick machining is required.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 3:26 p.m. , <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> A great machinist, and friend of mine, rebuilt my 100 water pump with a
> common argicultrial equipment seal and I believe a Delrin plastic bush. Its
> rock solid. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael Salter"
> To: "S and T Miller"
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Saturday March 6 2021 12:11:31PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> Titled pic
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:59 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> There are 3 main parts to the original seal system. Photo attached.
>> The hard thing to find is the seal diaphragm.
>> The sealing medium itself is a carbon block which runs directly against a
>> face of the cast iron body casting. The carbon block is located in a bronze
>> "holder" on top of the diaphragm seal.
>> The bronze holder is driven by splines on the impellor which wear badly
>> in use.
>> I have successfully rebuilt a number of lower mileage originals but parts
>> are really hard to find these days.
>> M
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 2:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is
>>> the original seal material made of?  It's not metallic, and feels like
>>> plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste
>>> could recondition the mating surfaces that isn't too far gone?
>>>
>>>
>>> The Millers
>>>
>>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>>> drive."
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM
>>> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>>
>>> No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing
>>> spacing.
>>> On one of the others I  deleted the holder and turned up a longer
>>> bearing spacer to compensate for the additional space.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <
>>> stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> That is awesome.  Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever
>>> pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the
>>> bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that
>>> seal?
>>>
>>>
>>> The Millers
>>>
>>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>>> drive."
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM
>>> *To:* S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
>>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>>
>>> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided
>>> to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
>>> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which
>>> all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to
>>> install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
>>> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car
>>> awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>>>
>>> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
>>> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
>>> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
>>> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>>> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>>> TY, Shawn
>>>
>>> The Millers
>>>
>>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>>> drive."
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 14:58:12 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 16:58:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
Message-ID: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>

Bob & Mike:

 

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. 

 

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. 

 

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.  

 

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.  More ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

 

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large" enough. 

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

 

M

 

M

 

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 15:51:38 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 17:51:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ9HzjcD8orut-1oS-_vFHfG69tO+yGUipRe4XzbM5uTA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for all that Bob.
One comment regarding increasing the cooling system pressure.
I rebuild quite a few Healey water pumps and can say unequivocally that the
seal type used in both the early and late style of 6 cylinder pump will not
handle much more than 7 p.s.i.
I would not recommend trying that approach.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 4:58 p.m. , <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob & Mike:
>
>
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
>
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
>
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>
>
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>
>
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
>
>
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
>
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> problems.  More ideas?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
>
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Mar  6 16:39:19 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 23:39:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <979254180.765969.1615073959846@mail.yahoo.com>

 Bob,??? All you have to do is take out the temp gauge and put the sensor end in boiling water.? Open the front of the gauge by twisting off the chrome bezel and remove the glass.? Remove the needle carefully (watchmakers usually put a sheet of plastic over the gauge and lever it off with two plastic levers)? then carefully press it back on at a 212 degree reading.? The needle is just a press on fit.? This all Nisongers is going to do.? Obviously the gauge is working, just reading incorrectly.? The worst that could happen is you can't get it back together, then you can send it to Nisongers.? Try to save some money first.? You're going to need it for the ever rising gas prices.Mike MacLean

    On Saturday, March 6, 2021, 1:58:37 PM PST, rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
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Bob & Mike:

 ?

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.? As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.? The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.? At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.? In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 ?

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.? The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.? The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. 

 ?

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.

??????????????????????? inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. 

 ?

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 ?

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.? At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.? This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.? Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 ?

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.? Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over. ?In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.? Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.? Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.? 

 ?

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.? Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 ?

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 ?

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.? More ideas?

 ?

Regards,

 ?

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

 ?

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large" enough. 

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

 ?

M

 ?

M

 ?

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob 

 ?

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Mar  6 16:40:35 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 23:40:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>

It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap is not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.? ?
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating

<!--#yiv7728791887 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7728791887 #yiv7728791887 p.yiv7728791887MsoNormal, #yiv7728791887 li.yiv7728791887MsoNormal, #yiv7728791887 div.yiv7728791887MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv7728791887 a:link, #yiv7728791887 span.yiv7728791887MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7728791887 span.yiv7728791887EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv7728791887 .yiv7728791887MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv7728791887 div.yiv7728791887WordSection1 {}-->Bob & Mike: ?You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.? As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.? The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.? At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.? In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt. ?I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.? The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.? The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.  ?At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.??????????????????????? inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating.  ?The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses. ?These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.? At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.? This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.? Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water? ?In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.? Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over. ?In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.? Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.? Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.?  ?In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.? Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system. ?Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture. ?I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.? More ideas? ?Regards, ?Bob Begani 67 BJ8  ?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  6 17:15:53 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 16:15:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4296fc3e-eb60-267c-5de3-9049f4efa2fa@comcast.net>

The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle was 
to install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a kit 
with a shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn't stand the noise it 
made, and the fact it blew dust up from the road.

On 3/6/2021 12:06 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote:
> Gentlemen
> Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to 
> compare is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking 
> about.? The 1955 T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small 
> diameter three bladed fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not 
> push much air either. Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 
> inch diameter, 1 inch pitch blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 
> 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable idea of the 100's fans ability to 
> move air. Couple that with the lack of fan shrouding at the radiator 
> and the numbers are even worse.? CFM is a big part of this issue. I 
> would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising (2500 RPM). Imagine 
> what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air flow is 
> increased do to the car moving forward.
> I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. 
> Can't hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the 
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than 
> the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but 
> they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry 
> Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of 
> the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he 
> tried it.
>
> M
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars
>     have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle.
>     When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found
>     the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so
>     they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to
>     move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added
>     'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and
>     radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
>     doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both
>     a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached
>     pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but
>     it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the
>     cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly
>     remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though
>     the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at
>     idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>     https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>     <https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/>
>
>     Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp.
>     on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on
>     Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in
>     which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump
>     of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help
>     much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what
>     I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our
>     engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
>     would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the
>     pump (but I can dream).
>
>     ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to
>     too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and
>     too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge
>     by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in
>     displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>     After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I
>>     decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and
>>     sealed bearings.
>>     I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through
>>     which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have
>>     managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics
>>     attached.
>>     After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car
>>     awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>>
>>     On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys,
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak
>>         and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states
>>         the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from
>>         the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads
>>         and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
>>         original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
>>         TY, Shawn
>>
>>         The Millers
>>
>>         "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car
>>         is a test drive."
>>
>
>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Mar  6 17:49:44 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 00:49:44 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps, not cures all.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 06 March 2021 23:41
To: rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating

 

It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap is not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.   
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >; 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating

Bob & Mike:

 

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. 

 

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. 

 

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.  

 

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.  More ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  6 17:58:05 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 16:58:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>

Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?


On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps, 
> not cures all.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *warthodson--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* 06 March 2021 23:41
> *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; 
> bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap 
> is not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>
> To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com 
> <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>; 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> Bob & Mike:
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the 
> response from the group.? As a result, I purchased an infrared 
> thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate 
> readings.? The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 
> degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the 
> block.? At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at 
> rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 
> 30-degree high reading.? In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will 
> send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling 
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to 
> the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running 
> at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.? The chart I created to record these 
> temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because 
> the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.? The 
> engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 
> 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan 
> operating.
>
> inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating.
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with 
> sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high 
> rpms.? At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep 
> the engine cool.? This is especially true when you have been operating 
> the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go 
> traffic.? Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for 
> constant cooling water?
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery 
> tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our 
> radiators have a long neck.? Both those changes have reduced my 
> problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over. ?In 
> addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature 
> is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.? Also, I am 
> not boiling over and loosing coolant.? Nevertheless, the engine water 
> temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off 
> highway speeds.
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and 
> others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car 
> systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant 
> system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the 
> pressure.? Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth 
> x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try 
> such a pressurized system.
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum 
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans 
> Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating 
> problems.? More ideas?
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>

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From roggrace at telus.net  Sat Mar  6 18:25:24 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 17:25:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNB-MUjnfKB_y14EJCcG_r+WfSkWxx2A-j9aZ1xDFqESQ@mail.gmail.com>

 I concur that at low RPM the flow rate is significantly reduced - as it
should be with this type of pump - flow is proportional to speed.  On my
BJ8 I measure oil temp and top rad. hose temp plus some other temps. Single
gauge with switches
So, I added an electric water pump (EWP) that I manually switch on when
approaching traffic. I use the same switch to switch on an electric fan. My
experience is that the EWP is by far better than just an electric fan - you
need to move the water through the rad. Very noticeable to prevent heat
soak too when you shut down the engine and you can see the temp dropping.
The EWP goes in the bottom hose and is quite inconspicuous. Took about 3
hrs to install. In series with the mechanical pump and literature says
little resistance when off  eg when cruising and RPM higher and EWP not
required.
Can post photo if anyone is interested plus pump details.
rg


On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:59 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?
>
>
> On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps, not
> cures all.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* 06 March 2021 23:41
> *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net;
> healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>
>
>
> It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap is
> not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> Bob & Mike:
>
>
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
>
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
>
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>
>
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>
>
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
>
>
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
>
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> problems.  More ideas?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  6 19:14:14 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 18:14:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar to
the original .  I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sat Mar  6 22:48:28 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2021 21:48:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <5di84g12kj9278gnuoh0bc5pq8cj4lk1v0@4ax.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNB-MUjnfKB_y14EJCcG_r+WfSkWxx2A-j9aZ1xDFqESQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <5di84g12kj9278gnuoh0bc5pq8cj4lk1v0@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNcKwC5DU8yPt=kAishRuRahbCWgiksn0gQKzVn+x0g+Q@mail.gmail.com>

Pump is the Australian Davies, Craig. Purchased it from Summit in 2018 and
have had it installed for over 2 years now. Paid $188 at the time. Bought
the basic EWP 80 and none of their controllers that they push. No need for
a fancy controller IMO if you are retaining the existing mechanical one and
only using it for traffic duty.  I have a relay and a switch under the dash
that controls the EWP and an electric fan as well. If the engine is really
hot I leave the pump on for a minute or so after shutting down. See link to
the pump manufacturer. Also photo of it installed - not too easy to
distinguish - it is circular and black below the steering column.

https://daviescraig.com/electric-water-pumps

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 7:34 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, I would be very interested in photos and pump details of the
> electric water pump you installed.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Sat, 6 Mar 2021 17:25:24 -0800, you wrote:
>
> > I concur that at low RPM the flow rate is significantly reduced - as it
> >should be with this type of pump - flow is proportional to speed.  On my
> >BJ8 I measure oil temp and top rad. hose temp plus some other temps.
> Single
> >gauge with switches
> >So, I added an electric water pump (EWP) that I manually switch on when
> >approaching traffic. I use the same switch to switch on an electric fan.
> My
> >experience is that the EWP is by far better than just an electric fan -
> you
> >need to move the water through the rad. Very noticeable to prevent heat
> >soak too when you shut down the engine and you can see the temp dropping.
> >The EWP goes in the bottom hose and is quite inconspicuous. Took about 3
> >hrs to install. In series with the mechanical pump and literature says
> >little resistance when off  eg when cruising and RPM higher and EWP not
> >required.
> >Can post photo if anyone is interested plus pump details.
> >rg
> >
> >
> >On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:59 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
> >healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?
> >>
> >>
> >> On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
> >>
> >> Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps,
> not
> >> cures all.
> >>
> >> Simon
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> >> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- via
> Healeys
> >> *Sent:* 06 March 2021 23:41
> >> *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net
> ;
> >> healeys at autox.team.net
> >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap
> is
> >> not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.
> >> Gary Hodson
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> >> To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
> >> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
> >>
> >> Bob & Mike:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> >> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared
> thermometer
> >> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> >> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than
> the
> >> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> >> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to
> 90
> >> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I
> leave
> >> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> >> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to
> the
> >> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at
> idle
> >> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these
> temperatures
> >> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> >> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has
> overheated
> >> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> >> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> >> operating.
> >>
> >>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric
> fan
> >> operating.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the
> hoses.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with
> sufficient
> >> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At
> idle
> >> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.
> This
> >> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> >> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> >> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> >> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> >> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very
> high
> >> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water
> gauge
> >> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> >> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> >> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> >> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and
> others
> >> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to
> 15
> >> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> >> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately,
> I
> >> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> >> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> >> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> >> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> >> problems.  More ideas?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
> >>
> >>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 00:43:46 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 02:43:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNB-MUjnfKB_y14EJCcG_r+WfSkWxx2A-j9aZ1xDFqESQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNB-MUjnfKB_y14EJCcG_r+WfSkWxx2A-j9aZ1xDFqESQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <04ba01d71325$9bb11370$d3133a50$@gmail.com>

Roger;

 

Please send me info on the electric pump and pictures on the installation.  Sounds as if it could be a good way to keep the down.  I am ready to try any good idea.

 

I already have a checked everything in the coolant system including the original type stat with a sleeve.  In fact, I have several that I bought from Kees to try different temperatures.

 

Mike indicates that the pump with not handle higher pressures over 7 psi so I have eliminated that idea.

 

Thanks, everyone for your ideas.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:25 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating

 

I concur that at low RPM the flow rate is significantly reduced - as it should be with this type of pump - flow is proportional to speed.  On my BJ8 I measure oil temp and top rad. hose temp plus some other temps. Single gauge with switches

So, I added an electric water pump (EWP) that I manually switch on when approaching traffic. I use the same switch to switch on an electric fan. My experience is that the EWP is by far better than just an electric fan - you need to move the water through the rad. Very noticeable to prevent heat soak too when you shut down the engine and you can see the temp dropping.

The EWP goes in the bottom hose and is quite inconspicuous. Took about 3 hrs to install. In series with the mechanical pump and literature says little resistance when off  eg when cruising and RPM higher and EWP not required.

Can post photo if anyone is interested plus pump details.

rg

 

 

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:59 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?



On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps, not cures all.

Simon

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 06 March 2021 23:41
To: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> ; michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> ; bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> ; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating

 

It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap is not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.   
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >; 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating

Bob & Mike:

 

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. 

 

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. 

 

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.  

 

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.  More ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Sun Mar  7 03:17:32 2021
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 10:17:32 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
Message-ID: <003d01d7133b$16934f30$43b9ed90$@btinternet.com>

I have put some thought into cooling my AH3000, which is not yet on the road
so I have not tested any of the ideas.  I have written the attached article,
which may be of interest.

 

One thing not in the article, but relevant, is that I have read that if an
engine overheats at high revs that is a coolant flow problem; if it
overheats at low revs, that is an air flow problem.

 

It is my intention to take some measurements of airflow in various
configurations this summer to prove or disprove the effectiveness of my
radiator cowl.

 

Ian

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 03:25:47 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 10:25:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
In-Reply-To: <4296fc3e-eb60-267c-5de3-9049f4efa2fa@comcast.net>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C07D7CEA39FDAC975007D4969@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLZLHx2ZCo4FP=D0jg2cC+Bm9YY16JOHyrWOyz2u11hKw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7475d011-a206-0523-9389-32fc6455672d@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLqCu8EWChK6fQ5MEnM0A6nvH6XpqHS-BJsMvRf=Mfi4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1781439492.710386.1615061212195@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4296fc3e-eb60-267c-5de3-9049f4efa2fa@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLXJZT2z3wEDqXmEbMR2H8-pSuf7mgh9qPR8s3eH_ACBgQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob

Just a bit of information that might be of help.

The Pump fitted to 100, A70, and A90, etc. was serviced as one item with
the pulley. The pump however was used on many later BMC 4 cylinder petrol
engines where it was serviced without the pulley. The pulleys in this case
were narrower or multi-groove.

If one is searching old stock outlets the pump less pulley was used until
the early 60s.

Part number 10K 44   Service kit major 8G 2302   minor  8G2042

There might be a small difference where heater, by-pass, and plugs fit but
these can be easily changed


On Sun, 7 Mar 2021 at 00:17, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> The single most effective thing I did to alleviate heat-up at idle was to
> install a Hayden 7-bladed stainless steel flex fan (part of a kit with a
> shroud the Nocks once sold). I just couldn't stand the noise it made, and
> the fact it blew dust up from the road.
>
> On 3/6/2021 12:06 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote:
>
> Gentlemen
> Interesting discussion but one of the items that we really have to compare
> is the CFM of the radiator fan on the cars we are talking about.  The 1955
> T Bird uses, if I recall correctly a relatively small diameter three bladed
> fan. The stock 100 4 blade aluminum fan does not push much air either.
> Someone can run the numbers for a 4 blade, 15 inch diameter, 1 inch pitch
> blade and get the CFM at idle, 1000 and 2500 (fan) RPM and get a reasonable
> idea of the 100's fans ability to move air. Couple that with the lack of
> fan shrouding at the radiator and the numbers are even worse.  CFM is a big
> part of this issue. I would be surprised if we get 1000 CFM at cruising
> (2500 RPM).  Imagine what idle is like.....at least while cruising the air
> flow is increased do to the car moving forward.
> I'm not a mechanical engineer so some of you ME's can jump in here.. Can't
> hurt my feelings because I've been wrong many times before.....
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 12:20 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>
> M
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/6/2021 5:57 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to
> look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
> I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all
> the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a
> considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached.
> After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting
> a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.
>
> On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need
> broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be
> screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like
> the standard has threads and not the uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild
> original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  7 08:07:31 2021
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 15:07:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since. I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan. Nothing worked.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating


Bob & Mike:



You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.



I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.



At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating.



The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.



These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?



In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.



In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.



Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.



I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.  More ideas?



Regards,



Bob Begani 67 BJ8



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps



Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being "large" enough.

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.



M



M



On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:

I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob


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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 14:59:54 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 13:59:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>

I've gotten many suggestions so thank you all.  Most have said I should use
the same material as the carpet but the carpet has some pile or nap to it.
I already have red carpeting.   The material on the parcel tray has minimal
nap. It is more like indoor-outdoor carpeting.  Apparently, A-H Spares has
the material and the vinyl trim as a kit but I don't need that as I have
modified my parcel tray and don't want to spend that much for trim that I
can't use. Any other suggestions?

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 6:14 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar
> to the original .  I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 15:06:46 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 14:06:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz887zfGKSW4UCHmi3GpMwHDwprxGu+hBoDwL7eRgs54dcQ@mail.gmail.com>

Go into a carpet or flooring store

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, Mar 7, 2021, 2:01 PM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I've gotten many suggestions so thank you all.  Most have said I should
> use the same material as the carpet but the carpet has some pile or nap to
> it.  I already have red carpeting.   The material on the parcel tray has
> minimal nap. It is more like indoor-outdoor carpeting.  Apparently, A-H
> Spares has the material and the vinyl trim as a kit but I don't need that
> as I have modified my parcel tray and don't want to spend that much for
> trim that I can't use. Any other suggestions?
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 6:14 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar
>> to the original .  I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Mar  7 15:22:58 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 14:22:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>

Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for a
vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying my
time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to consider
what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of inherent
Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature of
the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I
looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it would point to any
obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling systems is very
complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the
factors that have the greatest influence on the system will help to point to
possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not
be as obvious as others.
 
The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If the
capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is greater
than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system will reach
a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH when
ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For many
Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle speeds.
What are the critical variables that affect the water temperature the
thermostat sees:
 
1. Engine heat generated.
2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
4. Water flow rate.
 
At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can surround
the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the influence of
each:
 
If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F
the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things being
equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per degree
increase in air temperature.
If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of
radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator.
 
If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the thermostat
when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer controlling the
system and the water temperature will change when one of the critical
variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing thermostats, fans or
using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this forum and suggest
one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at what is
happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat rating
while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the
issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and
soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water temperature increases.
 
The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too
lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
generated.
 
Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type of
fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
 
It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others
do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at
best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must be in harmony
with little room for forgiveness.
 
The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
 
I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
 
Harold
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard
Berkowitz via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating


So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are
still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
Nothing worked. 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell'
<bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating 
 

Bob & Mike:

 

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response
from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to
determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer
gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature
of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge
will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which
would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool
Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water
is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of
the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since
rebuilding to 20 over. 

 

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
operating. 

 

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and
come down to 30 - 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is
to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and
a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a
long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.
Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus
degrees true when coming off highway speeds.  

 

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks "if your coolant system, radiator,
hoses etc. is new" and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap
except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated
some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant
rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.
More ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

 

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling
system not being "large" enough. 

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

 

M

 

M

 

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the
pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better
pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the
spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea
(Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the
improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved
cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car
/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I
can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 15:29:29 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 17:29:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLJeVAhuvNGqd_RpuNtfLAd5pVDtvXWinvXbU6AZDF8=w@mail.gmail.com>

Bob, I think you may be misinterpreting the figures that you quoted

*At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
operating.*

*                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
operating. *

If the water pump is not circulating enough coolant at idle the coolant
will spend considerably more time working its way up through the radiator
tubes than perhaps it should.

To my mind this would mean that there would be more time for the radiator
to transfer heat from the coolant to the air particularly if the electric
fan was operating at the same speed and therefore would exit the radiator
at a considerably lower temperature..

The numbers above indicate that at idle the coolant is exiting the radiator
at a higher temperature than at greater engine RPM, this absolutely does
not make sense in fact, it would indicate that the coolant is passing
through the radiator core considerably more quickly at idle than it is
higher RPM.

I've given this considerable thought and the only conclusion that I can
come to is that either the fan belt is slipping very badly under load or
the water pump impellor is slipping on the pump shaft at higher RPM.

Have you taken a look into the radiator filler neck while the engine is
running. Usually you can see the coolant passing toward the upper hose and
the rate of flow increases as the RPM increases.

Miche be worth a look.


M

.






On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:58 PM <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob & Mike:
>
>
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
>
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
>
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>
>
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>
>
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
>
>
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
>
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> problems.  More ideas?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
>
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar  7 15:34:08 2021
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 22:34:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz887zfGKSW4UCHmi3GpMwHDwprxGu+hBoDwL7eRgs54dcQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz887zfGKSW4UCHmi3GpMwHDwprxGu+hBoDwL7eRgs54dcQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1148265374.288348.1615156448572@mail.yahoo.com>

 Wooliies in Englandhttps://www.woolies-trim.co.uk

Joe
    On Sunday, March 7, 2021, 05:07:21 PM EST, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Go into a carpet or flooring store

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021, 2:01 PM richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I've gotten many suggestions so thank you all.? Most have said I should use the same material as the carpet but the carpet has some pile or nap to it.? I already have red carpeting.?? The material on the parcel tray has minimal nap. It is more like indoor-outdoor carpeting.? Apparently, A-H Spares has the material and the vinyl trim as a kit but I don't need that as I have modified my parcel tray and don't want to spend that much for trim that I can't use. Any other suggestions?

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 6:14 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar to the original .? I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?

_______________________________________________
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 15:52:30 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 17:52:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>

Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I believe that this statement is
incorrect and could result in considerable confusion:
*"If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator." *
Coolant exits the engine from the water pump and is pumped to the bottom of
the radiator.
With everything else being equal, a decrease in the rate of flow of the
coolant will result in the coolant staying in the radiator longer thus
allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air.
The result of the slower flow would be a LOWER temperature at the outlet
"top" the radiator assuming of course that the radiator inlet temperature
remains constant.
Of course with slower flow the converse will occur within the engine
because, as there is more time for the heat of the engine block to be
transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as it exits the
block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet "bottom".
We 100 owners think about such things a lot :-)

M


On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for
> a vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying
> my time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to
> consider what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of
> inherent Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent
> temperature of the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while
> in lock down I looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it
> would point to any obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling
> systems is very complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors.
> Identifying the factors that have the greatest influence on the system will
> help to point to possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the
> factors may not be as obvious as others.
>
> The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If
> the capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is
> greater than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system
> will reach a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH
> when ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For
> many Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle
> speeds. What are the critical variables that affect the water
> temperature the thermostat sees:
>
> 1. Engine heat generated.
> 2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
> 3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
> temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
> 4. Water flow rate.
>
> At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can
> surround the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the
> influence of each:
>
> If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F
> the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things
> being equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per
> degree increase in air temperature.
> If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
> of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
> radiator.
>
> If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the
> thermostat when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer
> controlling the system and the water temperature will change when one of
> the critical variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing
> thermostats, fans or using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of
> this forum and suggest one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem
> is look at what is happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above
> the thermostat rating while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2
> above are likely the issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in
> the cooling system and soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water
> temperature increases.
>
> The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
> Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
> generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
> deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
> friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is
> too lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
> maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
> tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
> the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
> generated.
>
> Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
> based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type
> of fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
> radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
> or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
> radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
> the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
> shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
>
> It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others
> do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at
> best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must be in
> harmony with little room for forgiveness.
>
> The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
> core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
> tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
>
> I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Leonard
> Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you
> are still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
> factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
> I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
> Nothing worked.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
> *To:* 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Overheating
>
>
> Bob & Mike:
>
>
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
>
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
>
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>
>
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>
>
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
>
>
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
>
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> problems.  More ideas?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter via Healeys
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>
>
>
> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>
> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>
> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
> similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
> 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
> short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
> loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
> spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through
> the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend,
> after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a
> better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not
> of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>
>
> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>
> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
> I can dream).
>
> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
> an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Mar  7 15:52:43 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 22:52:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <878557499.989030.1615157563047@mail.yahoo.com>

How about using hair clippers on the red carpet you have with the appropriate guide on clippers? ?Just a thought. ?You could then begin trimming your own hair!! ?I do!!


-----Original Message-----
From: richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2021 4:59 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray

I've gotten many suggestions so thank you all.? Most have said I should use the same material as the carpet but the carpet has some pile or nap to it.? I already have red carpeting.?? The material on the parcel tray has minimal nap. It is more like indoor-outdoor carpeting.? Apparently, A-H Spares has the material and the vinyl trim as a kit but I don't need that as I have modified my parcel tray and don't want to spend that much for trim that I can't use. Any other suggestions?

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 6:14 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar to the original .? I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Mar  7 17:23:12 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 16:23:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <2011280888.218128.1615074035743@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000501d712eb$c5f792b0$51e6b810$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <cbf3b621-4662-4cb8-9085-606d441f5595@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiN3+0YTuv8rPJ3BdXWzdxibaGi6b7hH1AgOaupZpvrEhA@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
Those numbers you tabled need further investigation. Typically at steady
state the temp diff between in/out of rad is around 10F.
Presume that both tests were done at idle with little heat being generated.
The heat extraction by cooling system is proportional to difference between
ambient air temp and average rad temp.
Increasing flow rate will increase rad output temp and thus inlet will go
down.
I will try to fish out a good description I read a few years ago.
rg


On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:59 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?
>
>
> On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps, not
> cures all.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* 06 March 2021 23:41
> *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net;
> healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>
>
>
> It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap is
> not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> Bob & Mike:
>
>
>
> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>
>
>
> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
> operating.
>
>
>
> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>
>
>
> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>
>
>
> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>
>
>
> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system, radiator,
> hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
>
>
>
> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>
>
>
> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> problems.  More ideas?
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Mar  7 17:27:55 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 16:27:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNK76Bv55sHh=12c=n4MxbHA8an4f0qPhrDh-3mTLTZ5w@mail.gmail.com>

Gents found what I was looking for ... do read this.
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Basics%20Root%20Folder/Engine%20Cooling.html
BTW flow direction is out at top.
rg

On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 2:53 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I believe that this statement is
> incorrect and could result in considerable confusion:
> *"If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
> of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
> radiator." *
> Coolant exits the engine from the water pump and is pumped to the bottom
> of the radiator.
> With everything else being equal, a decrease in the rate of flow of the
> coolant will result in the coolant staying in the radiator longer thus
> allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air.
> The result of the slower flow would be a LOWER temperature at the outlet
> "top" the radiator assuming of course that the radiator inlet temperature
> remains constant.
> Of course with slower flow the converse will occur within the engine
> because, as there is more time for the heat of the engine block to be
> transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as it exits the
> block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet "bottom".
> We 100 owners think about such things a lot :-)
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for
>> a vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying
>> my time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to
>> consider what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of
>> inherent Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent
>> temperature of the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while
>> in lock down I looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it
>> would point to any obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling
>> systems is very complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors.
>> Identifying the factors that have the greatest influence on the system will
>> help to point to possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the
>> factors may not be as obvious as others.
>>
>> The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If
>> the capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is
>> greater than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system
>> will reach a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH
>> when ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For
>> many Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle
>> speeds. What are the critical variables that affect the water
>> temperature the thermostat sees:
>>
>> 1. Engine heat generated.
>> 2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
>> 3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
>> temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
>> 4. Water flow rate.
>>
>> At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can
>> surround the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the
>> influence of each:
>>
>> If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg
>> F the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things
>> being equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per
>> degree increase in air temperature.
>> If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
>> of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
>> radiator.
>>
>> If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the
>> thermostat when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer
>> controlling the system and the water temperature will change when one of
>> the critical variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing
>> thermostats, fans or using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of
>> this forum and suggest one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem
>> is look at what is happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above
>> the thermostat rating while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2
>> above are likely the issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in
>> the cooling system and soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water
>> temperature increases.
>>
>> The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
>> Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
>> generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
>> deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
>> friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is
>> too lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
>> maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
>> tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
>> the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
>> generated.
>>
>> Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
>> based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type
>> of fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
>> radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
>> or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
>> radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
>> the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
>> shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
>>
>> It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while
>> others do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is
>> marginal at best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must
>> be in harmony with little room for forgiveness.
>>
>> The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
>> core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
>> tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
>>
>> I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
>>
>> Harold
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Leonard
>> Berkowitz via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>>
>> So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you
>> are still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
>> factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
>> I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
>> Nothing worked.
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>> rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
>> *To:* 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
>> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Overheating
>>
>>
>> Bob & Mike:
>>
>>
>>
>> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
>> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
>> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
>> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
>> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
>> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
>> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
>> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>>
>>
>>
>> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
>> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
>> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
>> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
>> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
>> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
>> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
>> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
>> operating.
>>
>>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric
>> fan operating.
>>
>>
>>
>> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>>
>>
>>
>> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
>> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
>> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
>> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
>> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
>> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>>
>>
>>
>> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
>> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
>> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
>> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
>> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
>> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
>> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
>> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>>
>>
>>
>> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and
>> others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems
>> to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system,
>> radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.
>> Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch
>> diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized
>> system.
>>
>>
>>
>> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
>> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
>> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>>
>>
>>
>> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
>> problems.  More ideas?
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> Salter via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
>> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
>> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>>
>> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
>> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
>> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>>
>> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
>> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
>> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a
>> very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford
>> stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was
>> (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I
>> use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the
>> radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant
>> flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my
>> friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed
>> both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic
>> is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
>> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
>> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
>> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
>> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>>
>>
>> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>>
>> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
>> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
>> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
>> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
>> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
>> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
>> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
>> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
>> I can dream).
>>
>> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big
>> of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
>> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
>> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 17:33:18 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 19:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>

After only 65 years of use the original start on my car has scraped out.
The Moss replacement lacks the "S"--is there a source for as original?
Also, how do I remove the present button without damaging the dash?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Mar  7 17:52:02 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 19:52:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
References: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>

Hi Folks,

After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins. 
I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Stephen, BJ8

From manifold at telus.net  Sun Mar  7 19:02:31 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 18:02:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5E201B20675E4506AC32F20B50C30C27@AllInOne>

Michael,
 
My general model has a lot of assumptions and will be directionally correct
but not exact. I assumed hot water from the engine goes into the top of the
radiator and cooler water exists from the bottom of the radiator. The base
case was a flow rate of 1 US Gal/Min. If there is a better average flow rate
for the AH water pump let me know, I used a SWAG to get the model to work.
If all other factors stay the same and flow rate is reduced to 0.8 GPM the
temperature into the radiator increased by 3 deg F and the temperature
leaving the radiator deceases by 2.6 deg F. I was trying to simulate the
condition when the car slows down and the water pump flow is reduced. If the
flow rate is increased to 1.2 GPM the temperature into the radiator
decreases 2 deg F and the temperate out of the radiator increases 1.7 deg F.
In the model I have the flow rate has the least affect of the four factors.
 
The lower the flow rate the greater the difference between T(in) and T(out)
but T(in) goes up as flow rate goes down.
 
I am the first to admit my model has many assumptions.
 
Does this agree with actual results?
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2021 2:53 PM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating


Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I believe that this statement is
incorrect and could result in considerable confusion:
"If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of
radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator." 

Coolant exits the engine from the water pump and is pumped to the bottom of
the radiator. 

With everything else being equal, a decrease in the rate of flow of the
coolant will result in the coolant staying in the radiator longer thus
allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air. 

The result of the slower flow would be a LOWER temperature at the outlet
"top" the radiator assuming of course that the radiator inlet temperature
remains constant. 

Of course with slower flow the converse will occur within the engine
because, as there is more time for the heat of the engine block to be
transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as it exits the
block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet "bottom".
We 100 owners think about such things a lot :-)



M



On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:



Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for a
vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying my
time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to consider
what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of inherent
Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature of
the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I
looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it would point to any
obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling systems is very
complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the
factors that have the greatest influence on the system will help to point to
possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not
be as obvious as others.
 
The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If the
capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is greater
than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system will reach
a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH when
ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For many
Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle speeds.
What are the critical variables that affect the water temperature the
thermostat sees:
 
1. Engine heat generated.
2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
4. Water flow rate.
 
At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can surround
the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the influence of
each:
 
If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F
the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things being
equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per degree
increase in air temperature.
If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of
radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator.
 
If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the thermostat
when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer controlling the
system and the water temperature will change when one of the critical
variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing thermostats, fans or
using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this forum and suggest
one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at what is
happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat rating
while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the
issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and
soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water temperature increases.
 
The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too
lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
generated.
 
Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type of
fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
 
It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others
do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at
best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must be in harmony
with little room for forgiveness.
 
The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
 
I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
 
Harold
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard
Berkowitz via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating


So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are
still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
Nothing worked. 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell'
<bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating 
 

Bob & Mike:

 

You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response
from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to
determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The thermometer
gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature
of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I noticed my gauge
will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which
would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave for cool
Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.

 

I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water
is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated all of
the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since
rebuilding to 20 over. 

 

At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
operating.

                        inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
operating. 

 

The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.

 

These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and
come down to 30 - 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real answer is
to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?

 

In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and
a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a
long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.
Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus
degrees true when coming off highway speeds.  

 

In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks "if your coolant system, radiator,
hoses etc. is new" and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately, I
have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap
except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.

 

Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated
some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant
rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.

 

I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.
More ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani 67 BJ8 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps

 

Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling
system not being "large" enough. 

My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.

I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.

 

M

 

M

 

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the
pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better
pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the
spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea
(Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the
improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved
cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car
/productinfo/8501HO/

Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I
can dream).

ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.

Bob 

 

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From jtkarowe at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 19:16:47 2021
From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 12:16:47 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <5E201B20675E4506AC32F20B50C30C27@AllInOne>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB3503C0E83FDF68076C84996CB8949@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <2A97B4AAB58B4C56A55B05D89511296C@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7L+ds918S40+a8ionDGGr_m=em+1RmCVVzdu9-4R9+3K+g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5E201B20675E4506AC32F20B50C30C27@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAO-rHKv2_0-KUfFNJTOjiySst-ritozfRpmoqVV0VvKTdJtygQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am struggling with Michael's explanation. Everywhere I search, it claims
hot water exits via the Top hose and re-enters as cold water via bottom
hose. That would be why the thermostat is situated at the top of the engine
on the outlet. No doubt someone will correct me if I am wrong.
John Rowe
Qld Australia

On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 12:03 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> My general model has a lot of assumptions and will
> be directionally correct but not exact. I assumed hot water from the engine
> goes into the top of the radiator and cooler water exists from the bottom
> of the radiator. The base case was a flow rate of 1 US Gal/Min. If there is
> a better average flow rate for the AH water pump let me know, I used a SWAG
> to get the model to work. If all other factors stay the same and flow rate
> is reduced to 0.8 GPM the temperature into the radiator increased by 3 deg
> F and the temperature leaving the radiator deceases by 2.6 deg F. I was
> trying to simulate the condition when the car slows down and the water pump
> flow is reduced. If the flow rate is increased to 1.2 GPM the temperature
> into the radiator decreases 2 deg F and the temperate out of the radiator
> increases 1.7 deg F. In the model I have the flow rate has the least affect
> of the four factors.
>
> The lower the flow rate the greater the difference between T(in) and
> T(out) but T(in) goes up as flow rate goes down.
>
> I am the first to admit my model has many assumptions.
>
> Does this agree with actual results?
>
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 07, 2021 2:53 PM
> *To:* Harold Manifold
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>
> Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I believe that this statement is
> incorrect and could result in considerable confusion:
> *"If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
> of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
> radiator." *
> Coolant exits the engine from the water pump and is pumped to the bottom
> of the radiator.
> With everything else being equal, a decrease in the rate of flow of the
> coolant will result in the coolant staying in the radiator longer thus
> allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air.
> The result of the slower flow would be a LOWER temperature at the outlet
> "top" the radiator assuming of course that the radiator inlet temperature
> remains constant.
> Of course with slower flow the converse will occur within the engine
> because, as there is more time for the heat of the engine block to be
> transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as it exits the
> block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet "bottom".
> We 100 owners think about such things a lot :-)
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for
>> a vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying
>> my time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to
>> consider what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of
>> inherent Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent
>> temperature of the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while
>> in lock down I looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it
>> would point to any obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling
>> systems is very complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors.
>> Identifying the factors that have the greatest influence on the system will
>> help to point to possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the
>> factors may not be as obvious as others.
>>
>> The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If
>> the capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is
>> greater than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system
>> will reach a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH
>> when ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For
>> many Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle
>> speeds. What are the critical variables that affect the water
>> temperature the thermostat sees:
>>
>> 1. Engine heat generated.
>> 2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
>> 3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
>> temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
>> 4. Water flow rate.
>>
>> At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can
>> surround the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the
>> influence of each:
>>
>> If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg
>> F the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things
>> being equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per
>> degree increase in air temperature.
>> If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top
>> of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
>> radiator.
>>
>> If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the
>> thermostat when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer
>> controlling the system and the water temperature will change when one of
>> the critical variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing
>> thermostats, fans or using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of
>> this forum and suggest one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem
>> is look at what is happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above
>> the thermostat rating while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2
>> above are likely the issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in
>> the cooling system and soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water
>> temperature increases.
>>
>> The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
>> Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
>> generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
>> deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
>> friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is
>> too lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
>> maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
>> tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
>> the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
>> generated.
>>
>> Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
>> based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type
>> of fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
>> radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
>> or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
>> radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
>> the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
>> shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
>>
>> It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while
>> others do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is
>> marginal at best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must
>> be in harmony with little room for forgiveness.
>>
>> The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
>> core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
>> tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
>>
>> I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
>>
>> Harold
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Leonard
>> Berkowitz via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
>>
>> So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you
>> are still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
>> factory original radiator.  Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
>> I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
>> Nothing worked.
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>> rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
>> *To:* 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
>> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Overheating
>>
>>
>> Bob & Mike:
>>
>>
>>
>> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
>> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
>> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
>> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
>> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
>> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
>> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
>> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>>
>>
>>
>> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
>> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
>> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
>> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
>> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
>> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
>> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
>> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
>> operating.
>>
>>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric
>> fan operating.
>>
>>
>>
>> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>>
>>
>>
>> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
>> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
>> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
>> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
>> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
>> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>>
>>
>>
>> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
>> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
>> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
>> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
>> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
>> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
>> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
>> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>>
>>
>>
>> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and
>> others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems
>> to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system,
>> radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.
>> Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch
>> diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized
>> system.
>>
>>
>>
>> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
>> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
>> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>>
>>
>>
>> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
>> problems.  More ideas?
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> Salter via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
>> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
>> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>>
>> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
>> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
>> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>>
>> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
>> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
>> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a
>> very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford
>> stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was
>> (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I
>> use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the
>> radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant
>> flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my
>> friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed
>> both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic
>> is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
>> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
>> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
>> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
>> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>>
>>
>> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>>
>> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
>> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
>> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
>> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
>> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
>> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
>> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
>> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
>> I can dream).
>>
>> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big
>> of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
>> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
>> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 19:22:14 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 18:22:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88R2ZXbQpdQTYQyYEXqR35i2ZTY3kec3_L9GJHX41ksOA@mail.gmail.com>

Very carefully

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, Mar 7, 2021, 4:34 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> After only 65 years of use the original start on my car has scraped out.
> The Moss replacement lacks the "S"--is there a source for as original?
> Also, how do I remove the present button without damaging the dash?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar  7 19:58:39 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 21:58:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ9HzjcD8orut-1oS-_vFHfG69tO+yGUipRe4XzbM5uTA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <036401d712d3$ce823c40$6b86b4c0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ9HzjcD8orut-1oS-_vFHfG69tO+yGUipRe4XzbM5uTA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLchfgaY7nhKA0DUrLasHvfQQyQ-2+6kAZ0WXTZRwA+zA@mail.gmail.com>

Oops my bad ..
The circulation is as Bob described.
The outlet  from the radiator is the bottom hose.

M

On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 5:51 p.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks for all that Bob.
> One comment regarding increasing the cooling system pressure.
> I rebuild quite a few Healey water pumps and can say unequivocally that
> the seal type used in both the early and late style of 6 cylinder pump will
> not handle much more than 7 p.s.i.
> I would not recommend trying that approach.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 4:58 p.m. , <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob & Mike:
>>
>>
>>
>> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
>> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer
>> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
>> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the
>> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
>> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90
>> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I leave
>> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
>>
>>
>>
>> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
>> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
>> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
>> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these temperatures
>> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
>> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has overheated
>> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
>> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
>> operating.
>>
>>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric
>> fan operating.
>>
>>
>>
>> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
>>
>>
>>
>> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
>> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At idle
>> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.  This
>> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
>> and come down to 30 ? 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
>> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
>>
>>
>>
>> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
>> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
>> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
>> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water gauge
>> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
>> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
>> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
>> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
>>
>>
>>
>> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and
>> others are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems
>> to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks ?if your coolant system,
>> radiator, hoses etc. is new? and therefore can hold the pressure.
>> Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch
>> diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized
>> system.
>>
>>
>>
>> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
>> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
>> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
>>
>>
>>
>> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
>> problems.  More ideas?
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> Salter via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
>> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the
>> cooling system not being "large" enough.
>>
>> My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
>> 100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
>> really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
>>
>> I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
>> about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
>> pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a
>> very similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford
>> stuffed the 292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was
>> (essentially) too short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I
>> use the term loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the
>> radiator. The spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant
>> flow through the pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my
>> friend, after doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed
>> both a better pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic
>> is not of the spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the
>> general idea (Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block
>> flow, and the improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach
>> has improved cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has
>> to sit too long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
>>
>>
>> https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/
>>
>> Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
>> BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
>> have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
>> pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
>> radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
>> least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
>> course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
>> would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but
>> I can dream).
>>
>> ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big
>> of an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
>> But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
>> not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar  7 21:02:38 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 20:02:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
References: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450.ref@rogers.com>
 <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <3020b996-aa6e-f472-a4fa-c32874944598@comcast.net>

I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp 
silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't 
seen any like it around here.

Bob

On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar  7 21:17:14 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2021 20:17:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <3020b996-aa6e-f472-a4fa-c32874944598@comcast.net>
References: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450.ref@rogers.com>
 <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
 <3020b996-aa6e-f472-a4fa-c32874944598@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>

ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the 
exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' 
back into the cockpit.

On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp 
> silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't 
> seen any like it around here.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>> Hi Folks,
>>
>> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had 
>> it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
>> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas 
>> tight fit at the joins.
>> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with 
>> controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made 
>> up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket 
>> material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and 
>> carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
>> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with 
>> a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>>
>> Suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 00:42:21 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 15:42:21 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKsSy9jGx2H8vqZsrEBOzkdQuH2oSuV7KvHD84gtGhzRw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm wondering if you could just have the S laser etched on the button, or
even possibly change the buttons on the switch?  Or for that matter can the
switches internals be restored?


On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 8:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> After only 65 years of use the original start on my car has scraped out.
> The Moss replacement lacks the "S"--is there a source for as original?
> Also, how do I remove the present button without damaging the dash?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 00:58:05 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 15:58:05 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
References: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450.ref@rogers.com>
 <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK9J=py8FAF4qDYLEby0WVXvBFrRnpnz24+NOFojbg=ZA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Stephen -

I always use SS T-bolt hose clamps or other heavy duty equivalents to clamp
down on the joins... mostly because I hate the little whistling sound from
otherwise weak clamped joins.  The T-bolt hose clamps also have the added
advantage of not creasing the joins, so disassembly later is super easy.
Best part is there's no need for silicone sealant or anything like that.

Mikalor is a very good brand, alternatively you can get them from boat
shops too, but make sure you get them with the solid SS T-nuts so that you
can crank down on the bolt:

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/HoseClip_Mikalor_Supra-W4.html

alternatively this kind is very good as well:

https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/plumbing-sinks-toilets-pumps/hoses-accessories/hose-clamp-stainless-steel-t-bolt/

Avoid the kind that don't have a solid T- nut or don't have complete
threading through the T-nut.

Best,

Alan



On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 8:57 AM Stephen Hutchings via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it,
> and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight
> fit at the joins.
> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with
> controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down
> pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that
> compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed
> the firewall.
> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a
> new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 01:22:07 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 16:22:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK9J=py8FAF4qDYLEby0WVXvBFrRnpnz24+NOFojbg=ZA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450.ref@rogers.com>
 <D24BA44B-B80D-4FBD-BB03-1B57CEB5C450@rogers.com>
 <CAFBXTkK9J=py8FAF4qDYLEby0WVXvBFrRnpnz24+NOFojbg=ZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJgfZuP7wBLqV0N=2c1=7fbRYEDGy_RRTwL2kmOTeR1jQ@mail.gmail.com>

you want T-bolt clamps with "solid trunions".... that's the word I was
looking for.



On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 3:58 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Stephen -
>
> I always use SS T-bolt hose clamps or other heavy duty equivalents to
> clamp down on the joins... mostly because I hate the little whistling sound
> from otherwise weak clamped joins.  The T-bolt hose clamps also have the
> added advantage of not creasing the joins, so disassembly later is super
> easy.  Best part is there's no need for silicone sealant or anything like
> that.
>
> Mikalor is a very good brand, alternatively you can get them from boat
> shops too, but make sure you get them with the solid SS T-nuts so that you
> can crank down on the bolt:
>
> https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/HoseClip_Mikalor_Supra-W4.html
>
> alternatively this kind is very good as well:
>
>
> https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/plumbing-sinks-toilets-pumps/hoses-accessories/hose-clamp-stainless-steel-t-bolt/
>
> Avoid the kind that don't have a solid T- nut or don't have complete
> threading through the T-nut.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 8:57 AM Stephen Hutchings via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi Folks,
>>
>> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it,
>> and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
>> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight
>> fit at the joins.
>> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with
>> controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down
>> pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that
>> compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed
>> the firewall.
>> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a
>> new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>>
>> Suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Mar  8 02:33:04 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 04:33:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29126866-b792-42cd-7209-f73c668b4f9d@earthlink.net>

Michael,

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/electrical-switches/starter-button-with-s-in-button.aspx

I can't tell if the S is engraved or not.? Originals have screw 
terminals, not spade terminals, so you'll have to add connectors to the 
harness.

Does the switch just spin when you put a wrench on the nut on the back side?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/7/21 7:33 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> After only 65 years of use the original start on my car has scraped?out.
> The Moss replacement?lacks the "S"--is there a source for as original?
> Also, how do I remove the present button without damaging the dash?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar  8 07:58:37 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 06:58:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>

You have to be very careful extending the pipes. If they are to far past the muffler the exhaust will be pulled back int the cockpit 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 7, 2021, at 8:18 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' back into the cockpit.
> 
>> On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't seen any like it around here.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>>> On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>>> Hi Folks,
>>> 
>>> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
>>> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
>>> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
>>> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>>> 
>>> Suggestions?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Stephen, BJ8
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 


From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Mar  8 09:08:03 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 16:08:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B68qfx-MsBd_QrDsk6yLCxK+0xaFqDFE_NiN86XwyHrow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1250928832.1247767.1615219683475@mail.yahoo.com>

The start button can be easily dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. The nut on the back of the switch is 13/16 inch. The switch is set into the sash panel with a "tang" that holds it in place while you remove the nut. I can send photos but they are on my phone and it may be later today.?Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2021 7:33 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Start button

After only 65 years of use the original start on my car has scraped?out.The Moss replacement?lacks the "S"--is there a source for as original?Also, how do I remove the present button without damaging the dash?
Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Mar  8 09:43:40 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 11:43:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>

So, what have you found to be the optimum distance? I had been told to get them past the bumper, which I did?but maybe too far?

Stephen, BJ8

> On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:58 AM, David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> You have to be very careful extending the pipes. If they are to far past the muffler the exhaust will be pulled back int the cockpit 
> 
> David Nock
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 7, 2021, at 8:18 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> ?ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' back into the cockpit.
>> 
>>> On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't seen any like it around here.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>>> On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>>>> Hi Folks,
>>>> 
>>>> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
>>>> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
>>>> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
>>>> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>>>> 
>>>> Suggestions?
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> 
>>>> Stephen, BJ8
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  8 11:03:49 2021
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 18:03:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet material for parcel tray
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqNo1Ldc9MB23Nd6JwwYFJjk4SxH9oHwCAk7pmnyFjRYMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNx7_n4Cm4sDGS1BSg6EoNsKXixDtP0pr2QnEriqZXhEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1281362824.464856.1615226629584@mail.yahoo.com>

 perhaps some? heavy felt?

    On Sunday, March 7, 2021, 2:01:07 PM PST, richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 I've gotten many suggestions so thank you all.? Most have said I should use the same material as the carpet but the carpet has some pile or nap to it.? I already have red carpeting.?? The material on the parcel tray has minimal nap. It is more like indoor-outdoor carpeting.? Apparently, A-H Spares has the material and the vinyl trim as a kit but I don't need that as I have modified my parcel tray and don't want to spend that much for trim that I can't use. Any other suggestions?

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 6:14 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

I'm looking for some thin red carpet material for my parcel tray similar to the original .? I haven't found anything suitable yet. Any suggestions?

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 12:23:13 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 11:23:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
 <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>

Maybe an 1-2 inches past the bumper at that max not including the bumper guard.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Stephen Hutchings via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 8:43 AM
To: David Nock 
Cc: Healey Mail List 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting

So, what have you found to be the optimum distance? I had been told to get them past the bumper, which I did?but maybe too far? 

Stephen, BJ8



  On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:58 AM, David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  You have to be very careful extending the pipes. If they are to far past the muffler the exhaust will be pulled back int the cockpit 

  David Nock

  Sent from my iPhone


    On Mar 7, 2021, at 8:18 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

    ?ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' back into the cockpit.


      On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
      I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't seen any like it around here.

      Bob


        On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
        Hi Folks,

        After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
        I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
        I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
        It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.

        Suggestions?

        Thanks,

        Stephen, BJ8
        _______________________________________________



      _______________________________________________
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Mar  8 13:04:19 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 15:04:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
 <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
 <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <FE58D249-482D-4EBD-8893-06D74572A12F@rogers.com>

Thanks David,

This is very interesting to me, having become obsessed by controlling this phenomenon over the years.
I don?t doubt your advice at all, but do you know whether anyone?s ever really studied this?
I mean, something like a wind tunnel test, or the equivalent.
It?s a bit long winded trying to test drive various lengths, with just your nose as a gauge! 
Of course, the wind direction can also make a big difference, especially at slow speeds.

Stephen 

> On Mar 8, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Maybe an 1-2 inches past the bumper at that max not including the bumper guard.
>  
>  
>  
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> 
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>  
> From: Stephen Hutchings via Healeys <>
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 8:43 AM
> To: David Nock <>
> Cc: Healey Mail List <>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
>  
> So, what have you found to be the optimum distance? I had been told to get them past the bumper, which I did?but maybe too far?
>  
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:58 AM, David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <>> wrote:
>>  
>> You have to be very careful extending the pipes. If they are to far past the muffler the exhaust will be pulled back int the cockpit 
>> 
>> David Nock
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 7, 2021, at 8:18 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' back into the cockpit.
>>> 
>>>> On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>> I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't seen any like it around here.
>>>> 
>>>> Bob
>>>> 
>>>>> On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>>>>> Hi Folks,
>>>>> 
>>>>> After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
>>>>> I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
>>>>> I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
>>>>> It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Suggestions?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Stephen, BJ8
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <>
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>  
> 
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar  8 14:12:09 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 13:12:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <FE58D249-482D-4EBD-8893-06D74572A12F@rogers.com>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
 <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
 <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>
 <FE58D249-482D-4EBD-8893-06D74572A12F@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <E9C159BAA0BD4346870707A27D537644@DavidNockHP>

Years ago when my kids were young. I modified a top header rail with a 3? high air deflector on it so they could sit in the back seats. We were unable to drive the car at any speed. The exhaust coming into the car as soon as we started to go was so bad I had to remove it with in the first couple of miles.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Stephen Hutchings 
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 12:04 PM
To: David Nock 
Cc: David Nock ; Healey Mail List 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting

Thanks David,

This is very interesting to me, having become obsessed by controlling this phenomenon over the years. 
I don?t doubt your advice at all, but do you know whether anyone?s ever really studied this?
I mean, something like a wind tunnel test, or the equivalent.
It?s a bit long winded trying to test drive various lengths, with just your nose as a gauge! 
Of course, the wind direction can also make a big difference, especially at slow speeds.

Stephen 



  On Mar 8, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:

  Maybe an 1-2 inches past the bumper at that max not including the bumper guard.



  David Nock
  healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
  209 948 8767
  www.britishcarspecialists.com

  Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
  British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
  by visiting the site at.
  www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


  From: Stephen Hutchings via Healeys 
  Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 8:43 AM
  To: David Nock 
  Cc: Healey Mail List 
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting

  So, what have you found to be the optimum distance? I had been told to get them past the bumper, which I did?but maybe too far? 

  Stephen, BJ8



    On Mar 8, 2021, at 9:58 AM, David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

    You have to be very careful extending the pipes. If they are to far past the muffler the exhaust will be pulled back int the cockpit 

    David Nock

    Sent from my iPhone


      On Mar 7, 2021, at 8:18 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

      ?ps. The fumes you're smelling might be coming from the end of the exhaust; if the tip doesn't extend past the rear bumper they can 'curl' back into the cockpit.


        On 3/7/2021 8:02 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
        I've had success sealing gaskets and small leaks with high-temp silicone. Edd China used to use some kind of blue paste, but haven't seen any like it around here.

        Bob


          On 3/7/2021 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
          Hi Folks,

          After many years of service my old stainless exhaust system has had it, and I?ve decided to replace it with another stainless system.
          I wonder if any of you have some tips/tricks for getting a good gas tight fit at the joins.
          I?ve had my car for 45 years and I?ve struggled many times with controlling fumes. I?ve recently replaced the manifold gasket, made up down pipe gaskets out of Remflex ( a graphite exhaust gasket material that compresses), lengthened my old tail pipes, and carefully checked and sealed the firewall.
          It?s become a bit of an obsession for me, so, since I?m starting with a new system, I?m hoping to see an improvement.

          Suggestions?

          Thanks,

          Stephen, BJ8
          _______________________________________________



        _______________________________________________
        Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
        Suggested annual donation  $12.75

        Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From britfan1 at epix.net  Mon Mar  8 15:51:09 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 17:51:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <E9C159BAA0BD4346870707A27D537644@DavidNockHP>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
 <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
 <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>
 <FE58D249-482D-4EBD-8893-06D74572A12F@rogers.com>
 <E9C159BAA0BD4346870707A27D537644@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <mailman.42.1615243879.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

Many years ago, when station wagons had roll-down tailgate windows, parents were warned about driving with that window down, as exhaust fumes would be sucked in (especially dangerous if kids were in the third-row seats).  That?s why SUVs now have rear-window wipers?dirt swirls around and back toward the vehicle.
Sarah Carr BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: David Nock BCS via Healeys
Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 4:12 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings; David Nock
Cc: Healey Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting

Years ago when my kids were young. I modified a top header rail with a 3? high air deflector on it so they could sit in the back seats. We were unable to drive the car at any speed. The exhaust coming into the car as soon as we started to go was so bad I had to remove it with in the first couple of miles.
?
?
David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 16:30:59 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2021 18:30:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
In-Reply-To: <20210308225141.27EB2A0FDB@autox.team.net>
References: <b90cbae9-d6e2-e117-fc74-d81ee76e97b0@comcast.net>
 <52153430-D5C1-4714-8BBF-B2E92E690792@sbcglobal.net>
 <47442C62-6D8E-4211-9B05-A9CA53346AEA@rogers.com>
 <9EDF3CA858B94464AC082BF80B5979CB@DavidNockHP>
 <FE58D249-482D-4EBD-8893-06D74572A12F@rogers.com>
 <E9C159BAA0BD4346870707A27D537644@DavidNockHP>
 <20210308225141.27EB2A0FDB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKAtt8E4OK_AhPqn-2rnBiJ+5_qzPFjx4B5p-N=URPDHA@mail.gmail.com>

I've  found that shortening a 100 exhaust anything north of about 2" beyond
the bumper causes problems.

M

On Mon., Mar. 8, 2021, 5:51 p.m. S.Carr via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Many years ago, when station wagons had roll-down tailgate windows,
> parents were warned about driving with that window down, as exhaust fumes
> would be sucked in (especially dangerous if kids were in the third-row
> seats).  That?s why SUVs now have rear-window wipers?dirt swirls around and
> back toward the vehicle.
>
> Sarah Carr BN1 in PA
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *David Nock BCS via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, March 8, 2021 4:12 PM
> *To: *Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>; David Nock
> <healeydoc at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Exhaust fitting
>
>
>
> Years ago when my kids were young. I modified a top header rail with a 3?
> high air deflector on it so they could sit in the back seats. We were
> unable to drive the car at any speed. The exhaust coming into the car as
> soon as we started to go was so bad I had to remove it with in the first
> couple of miles.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From deejay2650 at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 21:00:18 2021
From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 15:00:18 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
Message-ID: <CAH2i9kth7aupJ2MOny_Tc8G-ZETKp8Oso6peiqgXn-bq5oF1iw@mail.gmail.com>

G'day to All,
I live in the Riverina district of New South Wales where temperatures go
from minus 3 degrees C (24 degrees F) in winter to 42 degrees C (104
degrees F) in summer which, I think you will agree, is a large variance.

My '67 BJ8 is running the original radiator,  Texas cooler fan, sleeved
thermostat, original water pump, Lucas D25 distributor and standard coil.
The engine is standard although 30 thou oversize. I run a 7lb psi radiator
cap.

I run de-mineralised water and Penrite Classic coolant (which contains no
anti-freeze) but has the ability to coat *all cooling surfaces* and make (I
know this sounds silly) the water *wetter *and a electric fan in front of
the radiator.Which, I may add, I have used very rarely over 6 years of
ownership.
My temps usually run from160 F to 190 F all year round with of course an
increase to 210-212C on heat soak.

The one thing that I have fitted, (which is definitely not original) is a
thin metal plate, a great idea made by a Healey mate of mine, that fits
from the bottom edge of the lower front beaver tail to the front of the
main cross-member with tech screws attaching it. It covers the entire
bottom surface underneath of the radiator and part of the sump.
The idea being is the fan draws cool air through the radiator, heats it and
then pushes the heated air down which can lead to the radiator re-breathing
the hot air again. The idea apparently is not new, DHMC apparently used it
on some of the Sebring cars.

I can tell you that it definitely works and allows your Healey to keep its
cool!
Happy Healeying,
Darryl
'67 HBJ8L41258
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar  8 21:09:44 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 12:09:44 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CAH2i9kth7aupJ2MOny_Tc8G-ZETKp8Oso6peiqgXn-bq5oF1iw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH2i9kth7aupJ2MOny_Tc8G-ZETKp8Oso6peiqgXn-bq5oF1iw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLgrf4d0KFRVPvH3oMNVz3UxsbNfjgS0qFS_D6s0v-mYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Darryl -

A very good idea.  My '59 Jag Mk IX has this plate below the radiator and I
can confirm that car never overheats.  The downside is you have to remove
it to drain the radiator, so Jag installed a little lever on the radiator
to open the spigot... but idiot radiator shops always remove these levers
so now are hard to find.

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 12:01 PM Deejay2650 via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> G'day to All,
> I live in the Riverina district of New South Wales where temperatures go
> from minus 3 degrees C (24 degrees F) in winter to 42 degrees C (104
> degrees F) in summer which, I think you will agree, is a large variance.
>
> My '67 BJ8 is running the original radiator,  Texas cooler fan, sleeved
> thermostat, original water pump, Lucas D25 distributor and standard coil.
> The engine is standard although 30 thou oversize. I run a 7lb psi radiator
> cap.
>
> I run de-mineralised water and Penrite Classic coolant (which contains no
> anti-freeze) but has the ability to coat *all cooling surfaces* and make
> (I know this sounds silly) the water *wetter *and a electric fan in front
> of the radiator.Which, I may add, I have used very rarely over 6 years of
> ownership.
> My temps usually run from160 F to 190 F all year round with of course an
> increase to 210-212C on heat soak.
>
> The one thing that I have fitted, (which is definitely not original) is a
> thin metal plate, a great idea made by a Healey mate of mine, that fits
> from the bottom edge of the lower front beaver tail to the front of the
> main cross-member with tech screws attaching it. It covers the entire
> bottom surface underneath of the radiator and part of the sump.
> The idea being is the fan draws cool air through the radiator, heats it
> and then pushes the heated air down which can lead to the radiator
> re-breathing the hot air again. The idea apparently is not new, DHMC
> apparently used it on some of the Sebring cars.
>
> I can tell you that it definitely works and allows your Healey to keep its
> cool!
> Happy Healeying,
> Darryl
> '67 HBJ8L41258
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From reinhart.rosner at aon.at  Tue Mar  9 04:09:14 2021
From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 12:09:14 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
In-Reply-To: <CAH2i9kth7aupJ2MOny_Tc8G-ZETKp8Oso6peiqgXn-bq5oF1iw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH2i9kth7aupJ2MOny_Tc8G-ZETKp8Oso6peiqgXn-bq5oF1iw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006701d714d4$a44d2360$ece76a20$@aon.at>

Hi Darryl,

Here in Vienna in Austria the highest temperatures in summer stay between 35 and 38 deg. C, but may go down to minus 15 deg C in winter. Therefore the temperature range is even higher. But I have to admit, that my BN1 stays in the garage from the day of the first ice or snow every year until sand and salt are gone in spring. But the lowest temperatures at which I have driven the Healey were around 0 deg. C.

Of course regarding overheating your higher temperatures are the bigger problem. Here the combination of summer temperatures and driving up into the mountains might be a similar challenge for every car.

 

Nevertheless I only had overheating issues due to problems with settings on the carbs or the distributor or in the time before I had to rebuild the motor (bearing at crankshaft and the rockers were the main reason). During the work on the engine I had a high efficiency net installed in the radiator and run our usual antifreeze. Everything else is standard.

 

Your solution with the metal plate sounds very interesting. Do you have pictures? What kind of metal did you use and how thin is it?

 

Regards

 

Reinhart

 

 

 

Reinhart Rosner

55 AH 100 BN 1

Vienna ? Austria

 

 

Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Deejay2650 via Healeys
Gesendet: Dienstag, 09. M?rz 2021 05:00
An: healeys at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Overheating

 

G'day to All,

I live in the Riverina district of New South Wales where temperatures go from minus 3 degrees C (24 degrees F) in winter to 42 degrees C (104 degrees F) in summer which, I think you will agree, is a large variance. 

 

My '67 BJ8 is running the original radiator,  Texas cooler fan, sleeved thermostat, original water pump, Lucas D25 distributor and standard coil. The engine is standard although 30 thou oversize. I run a 7lb psi radiator cap.

 

I run de-mineralised water and Penrite Classic coolant (which contains no anti-freeze) but has the ability to coat all cooling surfaces and make (I know this sounds silly) the water wetter and a electric fan in front of the radiator.Which, I may add, I have used very rarely over 6 years of ownership.

My temps usually run from160 F to 190 F all year round with of course an increase to 210-212C on heat soak.

 

The one thing that I have fitted, (which is definitely not original) is a thin metal plate, a great idea made by a Healey mate of mine, that fits from the bottom edge of the lower front beaver tail to the front of the main cross-member with tech screws attaching it. It covers the entire bottom surface underneath of the radiator and part of the sump.

The idea being is the fan draws cool air through the radiator, heats it and then pushes the heated air down which can lead to the radiator re-breathing the hot air again. The idea apparently is not new, DHMC apparently used it on some of the Sebring cars.

 

I can tell you that it definitely works and allows your Healey to keep its cool!

Happy Healeying,

Darryl

'67 HBJ8L41258

 

 

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 06:21:30 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 08:21:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <038401d714e7$1e9fa9a0$5bdefce0$@gmail.com>


Reinhart & Darryl:

Attached are pictures of the Shovel I fabricated 3 years ago.  In addition,
I included a hole so the radiator petcock with a pipe nipple would extend
below the shove.  I have never been able to empty the radiator by opening
the brass valve because it is always filled with debris, so I just unscrew
it.

Before installing the tunnel on my BJ8 I drove it with the shovel installed.
The volume of air going through the tunnel was enormous. More than enough to
cool an engine as speeds over 30 mph. In my case, it is enough to keep the
water temperature around 190 at speeds of 70-80 mph on the highway without
the electric fan.  However, the water will spike to 212 when you are in city
stop and go traffic.  In SouthWest Florida we are sub-tropical which means
very seldom gets to freezing in the winter at night and is hot winter days
to very hot 90 degrees in the summer like SE Australia.

Some of our cars are much hotter than others.  My rebuilt engine has 1000
miles with 20 over and new pistons. Otherwise, it is the same engine that
came from the factory, 

Bob Begani
Punta Gorda Florida on beautiful Charlotte Harbor sailing year round.

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 14:09:23 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 16:09:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <632119854.1740253.1615307582497@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <632119854.1740253.1615307582497.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <632119854.1740253.1615307582497@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7qH5B1O0Df4YJOJmDZVw8bcJBPskU0UgCMwS0eeLeibw@mail.gmail.com>

After removing the speedometer as Perry suggested I could lay eyes on the
back of the start switch and all three wires--the two whites and one
white/red--seemed in place under the jam screws, reinforcing my belief that
the switch was defective.


I removed the switch and, despite my assumption, I decided to check it for
continuity.  Lo and behold the circuit closed when the button was pushed.


At this point I had already removed the wires and, thinking that perhaps
one of them was open I turned the key on and touched the white/red to the
two whites--and the engine turned over!  I can only surmise that there was
corrosion under one or both of the jam screws.


By now I had been working in a hunched over position for about 1.5 hours so
I decided to finish up things tomorrow.  However, so that I would be able
to sleep tonight I temporarily reconnected the wires to the switch and
pushed the button.  Voila--we have ignition!


To be continued, hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.


Best--Michael Oritt, BN1

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 11:33 AM <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Michael
> The switch can be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. Disconnect wires,
> remove nut with 13/16 wrench. There is a cut out in the dash panel and a
> bump on the switch that keeps the switch from spinning while you are
> turning the nut.
> Carefully pry each metal keeper away from the plastic.  Work off center.
> Don't try to pry up the center.   The metal keeper is a bit brittle and can
> break.  Don't freak out if it does. When the keepers are moved far enough
> you will be able to push on the button and the contact holder will pop out
> of the chrome piece.
> Clean up the contacts and reassemble.
> If part of the keeper has broken push the remainder back against the
> plastic to hold it in place.  Add a couple small drops of epoxy over the
> broken section. Make sure the epoxy does not block the movement of the
> button or other moving bits.
> Hope this makes sense.  There is a reason it takes a good writer to
> explain something in words, which I am not..   I guess that is why someone
> invented YouTube!
> P
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Mar  9 17:23:59 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 00:23:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Temp
In-Reply-To: <2046891816.887863.1615316995968@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2046891816.887863.1615316995968.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2046891816.887863.1615316995968@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>


What is the normal operating temp. for the oil? Or a hi & low range would be helpful.Thanks,Gary Hodson
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From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com  Tue Mar  9 17:41:02 2021
From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 00:41:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Register in the USA
Message-ID: <MN2PR11MB46463B0FEA72605231D07D99F6919@MN2PR11MB4646.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

OK, I am getting old, I can't for the life of me remember who runs the 100 Register in the US.  Worse still I can't seem to find it anywhere with a Google search.
Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks much
Simon

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Mar  9 18:16:32 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 01:16:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Register in the USA
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR11MB46463B0FEA72605231D07D99F6919@MN2PR11MB4646.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR11MB46463B0FEA72605231D07D99F6919@MN2PR11MB4646.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25079A42C143EF01F6062AECD1919@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Simon,
The 100 Registry is run by Randy Hicks of 7 Seawatch Dr., Savannah, GA  31411
PH: (h) 912-417-2404 (C) 508-981-5113
Email: ahca100registrar at gmail.com<mailto:ahca100registrar at gmail.com>
If you want add a 1953 model in a Registry, Hank Leach is currently creating an early Registry to account for the 1274 1953 Austin-Healey produced. He can be reached at (514)997-7354 or by Email: gradea1 at charter.net<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>


Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Simon Griffin via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: March 9, 2021 6:46 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Register in the USA

OK, I am getting old, I can't for the life of me remember who runs the 100 Register in the US.  Worse still I can't seem to find it anywhere with a Google search.
Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks much
Simon


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 18:59:43 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 09:59:43 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay just
cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've contacted them,
and they offer no explanation.  Totally weird....

Anyone else have this issue?

Cheers,

Alan
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar  9 19:05:16 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 18:05:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>

Alan,

I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by the CCP 
have instigated this?

Bob

On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay 
> just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.? I've 
> contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>
> Anyone else have this issue?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 19:11:59 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 10:11:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know.  Possible, they refused to give me a reason.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by the CCP
> have instigated this?
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay
> > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've
> > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
> >
> > Anyone else have this issue?
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 19:27:09 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 10:27:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob -

The bizarre thing is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland seller
(who I purchased a small thing from) and they never delivered.  When they
never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay rating.  That dishonest seller then
asked that if I change my rating to good, they would refund my money.  That
request made me angry, so I reported the conversation to eBay that a seller
was holding my refund ransom to change their rating to good.  Well, why
would I change the rating to good to get my money back? So in effect I
would give them a good rating for not delivering what they promised.  Crazy.

Oh well, this is the internets.  Easy enough to just make a new account.

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> I don't know.  Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by the CCP
>> have instigated this?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay
>> > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've
>> > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>> >
>> > Anyone else have this issue?
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar  9 20:30:06 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 19:30:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <eed1c208-1be0-936b-1ec3-9c1ce5ed71f6@comcast.net>

I had something similar happen near the beginning of the pandemic. I 
ordered what was supposed to be a 3M respirator--for chemical 
application, not for the virus--from an outfit that appeared to be in 
mainland China (a lot of these showed up on eBay about then, all trying 
to undercut each other by a couple cents). Anyway, the respirator never 
came, and from the start the seller had implored me to 'contact him, not 
eBay.' Every time I did, they gave a different tracking number, which 
appeared to originate at various places in N. America (I don't know if 
the numbers were hacked from the USPS, or were just random). A couple 
cycles of this and I contacted eBay to report a fraud; they refunded my 
money within a few days. Maybe your seller had 'connections?'

Bob

On 3/9/2021 6:27 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Bob -
>
> The bizarre thing?is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland 
> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never delivered.? 
> When they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay rating.? That 
> dishonest seller then asked that if I change my rating to good, they 
> would refund my money.? That request made me angry, so I reported the 
> conversation to eBay that a seller was holding my refund ransom to 
> change their rating to good.? Well, why would I change the rating to 
> good to get my money back? So in effect I would give them a good 
> rating for not delivering?what they promised.? Crazy.
>
> Oh well, this is the internets.? Easy enough to just make a new account.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I don't know.? Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>
>     On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         Alan,
>
>         I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by
>         the CCP
>         have instigated this?
>
>         Bob
>
>         On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>         > All -
>         >
>         > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and
>         there, Ebay
>         > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.? I've
>         > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>         >
>         > Anyone else have this issue?
>         >
>         > Cheers,
>         >
>         > Alan
>         >
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
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>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 20:31:56 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 19:31:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7qH5B1O0Df4YJOJmDZVw8bcJBPskU0UgCMwS0eeLeibw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <632119854.1740253.1615307582497.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <632119854.1740253.1615307582497@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7qH5B1O0Df4YJOJmDZVw8bcJBPskU0UgCMwS0eeLeibw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89_u2_i1dck4+MLe4zrvE9BjmBBGqO5EKQj0mBDHHzz2g@mail.gmail.com>

Some wise person suggested cleaning wires and terminals.
Glad its working

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021, 1:10 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> After removing the speedometer as Perry suggested I could lay eyes on the
> back of the start switch and all three wires--the two whites and one
> white/red--seemed in place under the jam screws, reinforcing my belief that
> the switch was defective.
>
>
> I removed the switch and, despite my assumption, I decided to check it for
> continuity.  Lo and behold the circuit closed when the button was pushed.
>
>
> At this point I had already removed the wires and, thinking that perhaps
> one of them was open I turned the key on and touched the white/red to the
> two whites--and the engine turned over!  I can only surmise that there was
> corrosion under one or both of the jam screws.
>
>
> By now I had been working in a hunched over position for about 1.5 hours
> so I decided to finish up things tomorrow.  However, so that I would be
> able to sleep tonight I temporarily reconnected the wires to the switch and
> pushed the button.  Voila--we have ignition!
>
>
> To be continued, hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
> On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 11:33 AM <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael
>> The switch can be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. Disconnect wires,
>> remove nut with 13/16 wrench. There is a cut out in the dash panel and a
>> bump on the switch that keeps the switch from spinning while you are
>> turning the nut.
>> Carefully pry each metal keeper away from the plastic.  Work off center.
>> Don't try to pry up the center.   The metal keeper is a bit brittle and can
>> break.  Don't freak out if it does. When the keepers are moved far enough
>> you will be able to push on the button and the contact holder will pop out
>> of the chrome piece.
>> Clean up the contacts and reassemble.
>> If part of the keeper has broken push the remainder back against the
>> plastic to hold it in place.  Add a couple small drops of epoxy over the
>> broken section. Make sure the epoxy does not block the movement of the
>> button or other moving bits.
>> Hope this makes sense.  There is a reason it takes a good writer to
>> explain something in words, which I am not..   I guess that is why someone
>> invented YouTube!
>> P
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 20:38:05 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2021 19:38:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <eed1c208-1be0-936b-1ec3-9c1ce5ed71f6@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <eed1c208-1be0-936b-1ec3-9c1ce5ed71f6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz892-Tg++Z0tmexMai+tt7qwuAYaL1iPyTZh_AuGKErKig@mail.gmail.com>

Im having an issue with a seller on ebay, but can't figure out how to
contact ebay

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021, 7:31 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I had something similar happen near the beginning of the pandemic. I
> ordered what was supposed to be a 3M respirator--for chemical application,
> not for the virus--from an outfit that appeared to be in mainland China (a
> lot of these showed up on eBay about then, all trying to undercut each
> other by a couple cents). Anyway, the respirator never came, and from the
> start the seller had implored me to 'contact him, not eBay.' Every time I
> did, they gave a different tracking number, which appeared to originate at
> various places in N. America (I don't know if the numbers were hacked from
> the USPS, or were just random). A couple cycles of this and I contacted
> eBay to report a fraud; they refunded my money within a few days. Maybe
> your seller had 'connections?'
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/9/2021 6:27 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> Bob -
>
> The bizarre thing is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland
> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never delivered.  When
> they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay rating.  That dishonest seller
> then asked that if I change my rating to good, they would refund my money.
> That request made me angry, so I reported the conversation to eBay that a
> seller was holding my refund ransom to change their rating to good.  Well,
> why would I change the rating to good to get my money back? So in effect I
> would give them a good rating for not delivering what they promised.  Crazy.
>
> Oh well, this is the internets.  Easy enough to just make a new account.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I don't know.  Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by the CCP
>>> have instigated this?
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> > All -
>>> >
>>> > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay
>>> > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've
>>> > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>>> >
>>> > Anyone else have this issue?
>>> >
>>> > Cheers,
>>> >
>>> > Alan
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Mar  9 20:47:22 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 11:47:22 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start button
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89_u2_i1dck4+MLe4zrvE9BjmBBGqO5EKQj0mBDHHzz2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <632119854.1740253.1615307582497.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <632119854.1740253.1615307582497@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7qH5B1O0Df4YJOJmDZVw8bcJBPskU0UgCMwS0eeLeibw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz89_u2_i1dck4+MLe4zrvE9BjmBBGqO5EKQj0mBDHHzz2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+iihifFC=PEo-CJpVwiVyXcK4apG3NSMhRH9_+ETiSvA@mail.gmail.com>

True.  Alot of instant current will go through that switch, might be a good
idea to put some Kopr Shield on the contacts before reconnecting.



On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 11:33 AM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Some wise person suggested cleaning wires and terminals.
> Glad its working
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Tue, Mar 9, 2021, 1:10 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> After removing the speedometer as Perry suggested I could lay eyes on the
>> back of the start switch and all three wires--the two whites and one
>> white/red--seemed in place under the jam screws, reinforcing my belief that
>> the switch was defective.
>>
>>
>> I removed the switch and, despite my assumption, I decided to check it
>> for continuity.  Lo and behold the circuit closed when the button was
>> pushed.
>>
>>
>> At this point I had already removed the wires and, thinking that perhaps
>> one of them was open I turned the key on and touched the white/red to the
>> two whites--and the engine turned over!  I can only surmise that there was
>> corrosion under one or both of the jam screws.
>>
>>
>> By now I had been working in a hunched over position for about 1.5 hours
>> so I decided to finish up things tomorrow.  However, so that I would be
>> able to sleep tonight I temporarily reconnected the wires to the switch and
>> pushed the button.  Voila--we have ignition!
>>
>>
>> To be continued, hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 11:33 AM <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael
>>> The switch can be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. Disconnect wires,
>>> remove nut with 13/16 wrench. There is a cut out in the dash panel and a
>>> bump on the switch that keeps the switch from spinning while you are
>>> turning the nut.
>>> Carefully pry each metal keeper away from the plastic.  Work off center.
>>> Don't try to pry up the center.   The metal keeper is a bit brittle and can
>>> break.  Don't freak out if it does. When the keepers are moved far enough
>>> you will be able to push on the button and the contact holder will pop out
>>> of the chrome piece.
>>> Clean up the contacts and reassemble.
>>> If part of the keeper has broken push the remainder back against the
>>> plastic to hold it in place.  Add a couple small drops of epoxy over the
>>> broken section. Make sure the epoxy does not block the movement of the
>>> button or other moving bits.
>>> Hope this makes sense.  There is a reason it takes a good writer to
>>> explain something in words, which I am not..   I guess that is why someone
>>> invented YouTube!
>>> P
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Mar 10 03:34:35 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 11:34:35 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Temp
In-Reply-To: <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2046891816.887863.1615316995968.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2046891816.887863.1615316995968@mail.yahoo.com>
 <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a7ff778e-b7a7-0a21-e26f-db12886dfe36@chello.nl>

I would say around 90C-100C is the normal oil temperature in a car 
engine. Should remain below 130C to prevent deterioration.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 10-3-2021 om 01:23 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
>
> What is the normal operating temp. for the oil? Or a hi & low range 
> would be helpful.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Mar 10 03:52:41 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 11:52:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>

Alan,

If an eBay purchase does not show up it hardly ever is a question of a 
dishonest seller, the parcel can be underway for months or very rarely 
can get lost. In such a case it is usual to contact the seller first 
_/*before*/_ giving him a bad rating, so the seller can resend the 
article or give you a full refund which would deserve a positive rating!!

Especially if you buy from Hong Kong or China (dirt cheap and often free 
shipping) it may take days or a few months before the item shows up at 
its destination. I always got a full refund if an item did not show up 
after a few months. However the item always showed up some time later so 
I paid the seller back again.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 10-3-2021 om 03:27 schreef Alan Seigrist via Healeys:
> Bob -
>
> The bizarre thing?is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland 
> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never delivered.? 
> When they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay rating.? That 
> dishonest seller then asked that if I change my rating to good, they 
> would refund my money.? That request made me angry, so I reported the 
> conversation to eBay that a seller was holding my refund ransom to 
> change their rating to good.? Well, why would I change the rating to 
> good to get my money back? So in effect I would give them a good 
> rating for not delivering?what they promised.? Crazy.
>
> Oh well, this is the internets.? Easy enough to just make a new account.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I don't know.? Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>
>     On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         Alan,
>
>         I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by
>         the CCP
>         have instigated this?
>
>         Bob
>
>         On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>         > All -
>         >
>         > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and
>         there, Ebay
>         > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.? I've
>         > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>         >
>         > Anyone else have this issue?
>         >
>         > Cheers,
>         >
>         > Alan
>         >
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Mar 10 04:15:20 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 06:15:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <cf8e0143-0f42-c854-2a85-04f9e1e91e4a@earthlink.net>

I bought a print from an UK ebay seller last year.? It got to the US 
very quickly and then stopped.? After 2+ months the seller felt that the 
shipment had been lost and sent me another.? I now have 2 prints - paid 
for both.? Last November I bought two HF1748 horn gaskets from Germany 
off of ebay.? Received them four months later.? Both orders were 
delivered by USPS.? I recently bought some BA hardware from the UK and 
got that within a week (airmail/UPS). Hopefully, shipping will return to 
the pre-pandemic delivery times.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/10/21 5:52 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>
> Alan,
>
> If an eBay purchase does not show up it hardly ever is a question of a 
> dishonest seller, the parcel can be underway for months or very rarely 
> can get lost. In such a case it is usual to contact the seller first 
> _/*before*/_ giving him a bad rating, so the seller can resend the 
> article or give you a full refund which would deserve a positive rating!!
>
> Especially if you buy from Hong Kong or China (dirt cheap and often 
> free shipping) it may take days or a few months before the item shows 
> up at its destination. I always got a full refund if an item did not 
> show up after a few months. However the item always showed up some 
> time later so I paid the seller back again.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 10-3-2021 om 03:27 schreef Alan Seigrist via Healeys:
>> Bob -
>>
>> The bizarre thing?is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland 
>> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never 
>> delivered.? When they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay 
>> rating.? That dishonest seller then asked that if I change my rating 
>> to good, they would refund my money.? That request made me angry, so 
>> I reported the conversation to eBay that a seller was holding my 
>> refund ransom to change their rating to good.? Well, why would I 
>> change the rating to good to get my money back? So in effect I would 
>> give them a good rating for not delivering?what they promised.? Crazy.
>>
>> Oh well, this is the internets.? Easy enough to just make a new account.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     I don't know.? Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>>
>>     On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell
>>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         Alan,
>>
>>         I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by
>>         the CCP
>>         have instigated this?
>>
>>         Bob
>>
>>         On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>         > All -
>>         >
>>         > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and
>>         there, Ebay
>>         > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.? I've
>>         > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally
>>         weird....
>>         >
>>         > Anyone else have this issue?
>>         >
>>         > Cheers,
>>         >
>>         > Alan
>>         >
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Mar 10 08:42:37 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 07:42:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Temp
In-Reply-To: <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2046891816.887863.1615316995968.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2046891816.887863.1615316995968@mail.yahoo.com>
 <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiOBdAqy=shPASr1M5ex6M2TzRpSTKDrOgEW=tHJR-j7Mg@mail.gmail.com>

Gary - I have an OT gauge fitted to my BJ8. BTW use the same gauge to
measure top hose temp and engine compartments temps.
Oil in our cars takes a long time to get off the chill. Being old school
don't like exceeding 2000 RPM till OT is above 120F that can take 15- 20
mins. Very different to water temp warming time. Normal running is around
150 - 170 F all of course dependant on ambient and speed. Highest have ever
seen is 194F on  hot day (over 33C) after sustained highway driving and
then being stuck in traffic for a long time. I have an oil cooler too -
fitted by PO so can't confirm its thermostat opening temp but been told is
typically 180F.
rg

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 4:25 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> What is the normal operating temp. for the oil? Or a hi & low range would
> be helpful.
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From dayton21 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 10 12:29:35 2021
From: dayton21 at comcast.net (mitchell simmons)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 14:29:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
Message-ID: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>

Hello,
Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more

Thanks
Mitch

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Mar 10 13:34:45 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 15:34:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silly question
References: <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F@rogers.com>

Thanks for all the exhaust advice. I?m waiting for my new system to arrive.

Now, I don?t trust my memory like I used to.  I?d had to take a front hub apart last fall (BJ8), and I?m pretty sure that the spacer that goes on to the hub first (not shown in manual) goes on with the concave side out, and the bearing fits up against the concave surface?but I can?t swear to it.
So, which way ?round does this piece go onto the hub shaft?

Thanks in advance

Stephen, BJ8

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Mar 10 13:46:18 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 12:46:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <15c101d715ee$6c371d30$44a55790$@roadrunner.com>

I used a DWR flywheel.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel

Hello,
Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more

Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com



From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Mar 10 14:01:47 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 21:01:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Silly question
Message-ID: <004c466b7b8011e5274b9d1ee7600736991786c1@webmail>

The concave side goes toward the base of the stub axle.
BJ8Healeys

	----------------------------------------- From: "Stephen Hutchings
via Healeys"
 To: "Healey Mail List"
 Cc:
 Sent: Wednesday March 10 2021 3:35:46PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Silly question

 Thanks for all the exhaust advice. I?m waiting for my new system to
arrive.

 Now, I don?t trust my memory like I used to. I?d had to take a
front hub apart last fall (BJ8), and I?m pretty sure that the spacer
that goes on to the hub first (not shown in manual) goes on with the
concave side out, and the bearing fits up against the concave
surface?but I can?t swear to it.
 So, which way ?round does this piece go onto the hub shaft?

 Thanks in advance

 Stephen, BJ8
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 /> Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
[5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6]
 />
 Healeys at autox.team.net
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 />
 Unsubscribe/Manage:  
[9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com [10]
 />


Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr
[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[5] http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr
[6] http://autox.team.net/archive
[7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys%3Cbr
[8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[9]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com%3Cbr
[10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Mar 10 14:08:33 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 16:08:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silly question
In-Reply-To: <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F@rogers.com>
References: <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F.ref@rogers.com>
 <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <8b6ea4e5-0445-df3b-5dad-f5c3b5dbabd4@earthlink.net>

Stephen,

If you mean the spacer that the inner bearing butts up against and that 
the inner seal rides on, then the flat side goes next to the bearing and 
the tapered side goes next to the upright. The taper gives the required 
clearance for the radius at the inboard end of the axle.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/10/21 3:34 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
> Thanks for all the exhaust advice. I?m waiting for my new system to arrive.
>
> Now, I don?t trust my memory like I used to.  I?d had to take a front hub apart last fall (BJ8), and I?m pretty sure that the spacer that goes on to the hub first (not shown in manual) goes on with the concave side out, and the bearing fits up against the concave surface?but I can?t swear to it.
> So, which way ?round does this piece go onto the hub shaft?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 10 14:22:14 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 13:22:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNynW3Qdeq8v2+qMtqKbVUL64jSLWucL4Q5TcVW8TWNew@mail.gmail.com>

Any automotive machine shop can do it.  There is nothing unique about a
Healey flywheel.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 11:34 AM mitchell simmons <dayton21 at comcast.net>
wrote:

> Hello,
> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no
> more
>
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Mar 10 16:11:03 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 23:11:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Temp
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiOBdAqy=shPASr1M5ex6M2TzRpSTKDrOgEW=tHJR-j7Mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2046891816.887863.1615316995968.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2046891816.887863.1615316995968@mail.yahoo.com>
 <484927698.992106.1615335839921@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CALPtYiOBdAqy=shPASr1M5ex6M2TzRpSTKDrOgEW=tHJR-j7Mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2108623604.9608.1615417863681@mail.yahoo.com>

Roger,Thanks, that is exactly the information I was looking for.Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 10, 2021 9:42 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Temp

Gary - I have an OT gauge fitted to my BJ8. BTW use the same gauge to measure top hose temp and engine compartments temps.Oil in our cars takes a long time to get off the chill. Being old school don't like exceeding 2000 RPM till OT is above 120F that can take 15- 20 mins. Very different to water temp warming time. Normal running is around 150 - 170 F all of course dependant on ambient and speed. Highest have ever seen is 194F on? hot day (over 33C) after sustained highway driving and then being stuck in traffic for a long time. I have an oil cooler too - fitted by PO so can't confirm its thermostat opening temp but been told is typically 180F.rg

On Tue, Mar 9, 2021 at 4:25 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


What is the normal operating temp. for the oil? Or a hi & low range would be helpful.Thanks,Gary Hodson_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net


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From manifold at telus.net  Wed Mar 10 16:40:22 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 15:40:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNynW3Qdeq8v2+qMtqKbVUL64jSLWucL4Q5TcVW8TWNew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
 <CAKkXjqNynW3Qdeq8v2+qMtqKbVUL64jSLWucL4Q5TcVW8TWNew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <695D6433C3284B9F8AC988957A218966@AllInOne>

Mitchell,
 
Here is a picture of the flywheel for my car I recently had lightened at a
local engine rebuilding shop. Most good engine shops should be able to do
something similar.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard
mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 1:22 PM
To: mitchell simmons
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel


Any automotive machine shop can do it.  There is nothing unique about a
Healey flywheel.


On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 11:34 AM mitchell simmons <dayton21 at comcast.net>
wrote:


Hello,
Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ?...TOMS TOYS use to.. but no
more

Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Mar 10 16:58:14 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 18:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Silly question
In-Reply-To: <8b6ea4e5-0445-df3b-5dad-f5c3b5dbabd4@earthlink.net>
References: <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F.ref@rogers.com>
 <590D1E15-5084-4481-AED6-17A02B5C440F@rogers.com>
 <8b6ea4e5-0445-df3b-5dad-f5c3b5dbabd4@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <186824E4-2008-4542-B228-51DC58972E3B@rogers.com>

Thanks for the info?makes sense.

Stephen

> On Mar 10, 2021, at 4:08 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> Stephen,
> 
> If you mean the spacer that the inner bearing butts up against and that the inner seal rides on, then the flat side goes next to the bearing and the tapered side goes next to the upright. The taper gives the required clearance for the radius at the inboard end of the axle.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> 
> On 3/10/21 3:34 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>> Thanks for all the exhaust advice. I?m waiting for my new system to arrive.
>> 
>> Now, I don?t trust my memory like I used to.  I?d had to take a front hub apart last fall (BJ8), and I?m pretty sure that the spacer that goes on to the hub first (not shown in manual) goes on with the concave side out, and the bearing fits up against the concave surface?but I can?t swear to it.
>> So, which way ?round does this piece go onto the hub shaft?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>> 
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 10 19:59:53 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 10:59:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <cf8e0143-0f42-c854-2a85-04f9e1e91e4a@earthlink.net>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>
 <cf8e0143-0f42-c854-2a85-04f9e1e91e4a@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKT9X=f=0bxvh5rJY1Yv01Bm9=zYK38pEgW=HX3G8Xx1g@mail.gmail.com>

Regardless of it all, I am now "permanently banned" from ebay and they were
never able to give me a reason.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 7:16 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I bought a print from an UK ebay seller last year.  It got to the US
> very quickly and then stopped.  After 2+ months the seller felt that the
> shipment had been lost and sent me another.  I now have 2 prints - paid
> for both.  Last November I bought two HF1748 horn gaskets from Germany
> off of ebay.  Received them four months later.  Both orders were
> delivered by USPS.  I recently bought some BA hardware from the UK and
> got that within a week (airmail/UPS). Hopefully, shipping will return to
> the pre-pandemic delivery times.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 3/10/21 5:52 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > Alan,
> >
> > If an eBay purchase does not show up it hardly ever is a question of a
> > dishonest seller, the parcel can be underway for months or very rarely
> > can get lost. In such a case it is usual to contact the seller first
> > _/*before*/_ giving him a bad rating, so the seller can resend the
> > article or give you a full refund which would deserve a positive rating!!
> >
> > Especially if you buy from Hong Kong or China (dirt cheap and often
> > free shipping) it may take days or a few months before the item shows
> > up at its destination. I always got a full refund if an item did not
> > show up after a few months. However the item always showed up some
> > time later so I paid the seller back again.
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >
> >
> >
> > Op 10-3-2021 om 03:27 schreef Alan Seigrist via Healeys:
> >> Bob -
> >>
> >> The bizarre thing is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland
> >> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never
> >> delivered.  When they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay
> >> rating.  That dishonest seller then asked that if I change my rating
> >> to good, they would refund my money.  That request made me angry, so
> >> I reported the conversation to eBay that a seller was holding my
> >> refund ransom to change their rating to good.  Well, why would I
> >> change the rating to good to get my money back? So in effect I would
> >> give them a good rating for not delivering what they promised.  Crazy.
> >>
> >> Oh well, this is the internets.  Easy enough to just make a new account.
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >>
> >> Alan
> >>
> >> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com
> >> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
> >>
> >>     I don't know.  Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
> >>
> >>     On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell
> >>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
> >>
> >>         Alan,
> >>
> >>         I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by
> >>         the CCP
> >>         have instigated this?
> >>
> >>         Bob
> >>
> >>         On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> >>         > All -
> >>         >
> >>         > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and
> >>         there, Ebay
> >>         > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've
> >>         > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally
> >>         weird....
> >>         >
> >>         > Anyone else have this issue?
> >>         >
> >>         > Cheers,
> >>         >
> >>         > Alan
> >>         >
> >>
> >>         _______________________________________________
> >>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >>         Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
> >>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >>
> >>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> >>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >>
> >>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> >>         <
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> >>
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> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 10 20:20:34 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 11:20:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay - Bizarre
In-Reply-To: <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>
References: <CAFBXTkKt=3PyO4Qv0sKou3ayrwcYbtX+yYpRo8znDykCxbHtnQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2eaf7d8e-0aee-fed1-b211-d9cf0883aa4e@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkL1TazbOUHzSK4A1QNaZBQmWk6kB59zY4=1EqJvH9AHaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk++=1Z4tP5GvMk1X0fzVvOhhP5NZVEhd9jMr6ozyEArpQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4b7834cc-67cd-0129-27d0-886a4c7a02b1@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ9WBxgAbHF3XpR7EzEwmoTh3Gvm98jyQ7PjAS5qDq6BA@mail.gmail.com>

Kees -

It was never an issue of the lack of delivery, but the attempt to hold back
refund in order to change rating.  Doesn't matter, they reported me to eBay
and now I'm no longer on eBay.  I also got a permanent ban from eBay.
You'd think I was President Trump or something!

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 6:53 PM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> If an eBay purchase does not show up it hardly ever is a question of a
> dishonest seller, the parcel can be underway for months or very rarely can
> get lost. In such a case it is usual to contact the seller first *before*
> giving him a bad rating, so the seller can resend the article or give you a
> full refund which would deserve a positive rating!!
>
> Especially if you buy from Hong Kong or China (dirt cheap and often free
> shipping) it may take days or a few months before the item shows up at its
> destination. I always got a full refund if an item did not show up after a
> few months. However the item always showed up some time later so I paid the
> seller back again.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 10-3-2021 om 03:27 schreef Alan Seigrist via Healeys:
>
> Bob -
>
> The bizarre thing is I believe the whole thing began with a mainland
> seller (who I purchased a small thing from) and they never delivered.  When
> they never delivered, I gave them a bad eBay rating.  That dishonest seller
> then asked that if I change my rating to good, they would refund my money.
> That request made me angry, so I reported the conversation to eBay that a
> seller was holding my refund ransom to change their rating to good.  Well,
> why would I change the rating to good to get my money back? So in effect I
> would give them a good rating for not delivering what they promised.  Crazy.
>
> Oh well, this is the internets.  Easy enough to just make a new account.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:11 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I don't know.  Possible, they refused to give me a reason.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:06 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Alan,
>>>
>>> I believe you live in Hong Kong; could the recent actions by the CCP
>>> have instigated this?
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On 3/9/2021 5:59 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> > All -
>>> >
>>> > Obviously I use ebay to purchase random parts here and there, Ebay
>>> > just cancelled my account after 18 years for no reason.  I've
>>> > contacted them, and they offer no explanation. Totally weird....
>>> >
>>> > Anyone else have this issue?
>>> >
>>> > Cheers,
>>> >
>>> > Alan
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
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>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar 10 23:41:14 2021
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2021 22:41:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>

I have a DWR lightened flywheel but I wish I had known more before installing it. A lightened flywheel reduces the torque. Also the OD functions differently. There is not a lot of difference between the RPM's in third and fourth gears. I am not sure how to explain it but hopefully someone else will.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel

Hello,
Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more

Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net



From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Mar 11 00:21:02 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 08:21:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
 <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <23d057f0-1d6c-1c1a-082c-8275b6dd5e58@chello.nl>

A lightened flywheel does _/*not*/_ reduce the torque the engine 
delivers, It reduces the inertia of the engine which will result in the 
engine revving up or slowing down faster to enable quicker shifts (gears 
and overdrive) and a slightly acceleration. It also means that when 
starting of from standstill you may stall easy initially and the gear 
changes are effected as you have to operate the clutch pedal with much 
more feel. Drive-ability will suffer.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 11-3-2021 om 07:41 schreef John Spaur via Healeys:
> I have a DWR lightened flywheel but I wish I had known more before installing it. A lightened flywheel reduces the torque. Also the OD functions differently. There is not a lot of difference between the RPM's in third and fourth gears. I am not sure how to explain it but hopefully someone else will.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
>
> Hello,
> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more
>
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 02:55:34 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 09:55:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <23d057f0-1d6c-1c1a-082c-8275b6dd5e58@chello.nl>
References: <23d057f0-1d6c-1c1a-082c-8275b6dd5e58@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <64BB44AA-3ECC-4E8D-B153-C0C293CE890F@gmail.com>

A lighter flywheel also effects torque reaction of the engine block. As the throttle is blipped the engine block reacts and whips sideways in the opposite direction to the crank. You all know this. With a lighter flywheel the engine reacts quicker (obvs).
My first Healey, a BJ8, had a hot cam (lumpy tickover) and a lightened flywheel. All good you might think.  Unfortunately the torque reaction was enough to crack and peel the engine mounts from the top of the chassis rails.  Now I understand why the works cars had reinforcement on between the mounts and the rails.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 11 Mar 2021, at 07:21, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> A lightened flywheel does not reduce the torque the engine delivers, It reduces the inertia of the engine which will result in the engine revving up or slowing down faster to enable quicker shifts (gears and overdrive) and a slightly acceleration. It also means that when starting of from standstill you may stall easy initially and the gear changes are effected as you have to operate the clutch pedal with much more feel. Drive-ability will suffer. 
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Op 11-3-2021 om 07:41 schreef John Spaur via Healeys:
>> I have a DWR lightened flywheel but I wish I had known more before installing it. A lightened flywheel reduces the torque. Also the OD functions differently. There is not a lot of difference between the RPM's in third and fourth gears. I am not sure how to explain it but hopefully someone else will.
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
>> 
>> Hello,
>> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Mitch
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 06:09:17 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 08:09:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
 <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJsN6a2FGoCXsqFoDPqaGtE1n-+6tRXxDo4hayM3m-A4Q@mail.gmail.com>

My goodness "negative confirmation bias" not often seen on the net.

M

On Thu., Mar. 11, 2021, 1:41 a.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a DWR lightened flywheel but I wish I had known more before
> installing it. A lightened flywheel reduces the torque. Also the OD
> functions differently. There is not a lot of difference between the RPM's
> in third and fourth gears. I am not sure how to explain it but hopefully
> someone else will.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> mitchell simmons
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
>
> Hello,
> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no
> more
>
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar 11 08:49:12 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 07:49:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJsN6a2FGoCXsqFoDPqaGtE1n-+6tRXxDo4hayM3m-A4Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
 <000001d71641$893dc110$9bb94330$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LJsN6a2FGoCXsqFoDPqaGtE1n-+6tRXxDo4hayM3m-A4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4615b228-5968-3c89-6a08-74a64b71a3ba@comcast.net>

Falls more into the category of 'disappointment.'

I've sometimes wished I had a lightened flywheel in my BJ8, but I think 
the lower inertia/torque would be even more of an issue with its 3.54 
rear end (yes, it takes a tad more finessing of the clutch pedal than 
the 3.91). This is the classic argument of torque vs. horsepower (John 
and Kees are both correct, there's inertia and torque, both give more 
pulling power, which is what we're talking about off idle). In my BJ8, I 
can let out the clutch slowly and it will creep away from a standing 
stop, if I do that in my Mustang, with 475HP and 425lb-ft of torque 
it'll stall every time; it doesn't start really pulling until over 
3,000RPM (but will pull in a straight line to the rev limiter at 7,400). 
Yes, the Mustang is heavier, by a little over 50%, but has more than 
three times the HP of a stock BJ8). But, if you want torque, my dad's 
old 4-banger Ford tractors would best them both in a tug-of-war.

I can't however, think of a reason why the OD would be affected; it's 
either engaged or it isn't. If the cone clutch was slipping that would 
certainly cause issues.

Bob

On 3/11/2021 5:09 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> My goodness "negative confirmation bias" not often seen on the net.
>
> M
>
> On Thu., Mar. 11, 2021, 1:41 a.m. John Spaur via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I have a DWR lightened flywheel but I wish I had known more before
>     installing it. A lightened flywheel reduces the torque. Also the
>     OD functions differently. There is not a lot of difference between
>     the RPM's in third and fourth gears. I am not sure how to explain
>     it but hopefully someone else will.
>
>     John
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of mitchell simmons
>     Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 11:30 AM
>     To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
>
>     Hello,
>     Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?.
>     but no more
>
>     Thanks
>     Mitch
>

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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Mar 11 09:11:11 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 08:11:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <695D6433C3284B9F8AC988957A218966@AllInOne>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
 <CAKkXjqNynW3Qdeq8v2+qMtqKbVUL64jSLWucL4Q5TcVW8TWNew@mail.gmail.com>
 <695D6433C3284B9F8AC988957A218966@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNVsXbrY-f+oJbhVEzJpHAUQACR658vqgqRCub2APcqyg@mail.gmail.com>

As Harold says it is easily done.
I have just had mine recently done by a local machine shop with a decent
size lathe - BTW non automotive shop
No holes and most of the metal removed from the periphery - where you get
the most bang for the buck.
Weight was reduced from 28.6 lbs to 22 lbs
Have photos but neglected to take any post surgery measurements.
Had the flywheel plus clutch assembly balanced afterwards.
Facts are that this will reduce acceleration and deceleration times. Does
not affect the output or reactive torque but times are reduced.
Kinder to OD clutch too.
I was worried that the idle smoothness might be affected but can hardly
notice any difference.
Shuts down quicker too.
No doubt that car is livelier.
Good value for $65 (machining - not balancing)
rg




On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 3:45 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Mitchell,
>
> Here is a picture of the flywheel for my car I recently had lightened at a
> local engine rebuilding shop. Most good engine shops should be able to do
> something similar.
>
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *richard
> mayor
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 10, 2021 1:22 PM
> *To:* mitchell simmons
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
>
> Any automotive machine shop can do it.  There is nothing unique about a
> Healey flywheel.
>
> On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 11:34 AM mitchell simmons <dayton21 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no
>> more
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mitch
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 09:14:50 2021
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 11:14:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
Message-ID: <CANQM1PKgTM04vvSNvMAS=fqxt139=uZ0Hrpt6OCWK9_VcKV=Wg@mail.gmail.com>

At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the  AHCA New England chapter,
one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from the battery to the the
starter grounding out against the chassis, the insulation worn out from
decades of chaffing.   Needless to say, lots of smoke and heat were
generated.

After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories like
this.   Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse?   Fuses like this style 500A
fuse
<https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4>
range
from 30A to 600A.   That seems like enough power to run the starter and
still provide protection against direct short damage.

What does everyone think?

- Tom
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar 11 09:58:40 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 08:58:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PKgTM04vvSNvMAS=fqxt139=uZ0Hrpt6OCWK9_VcKV=Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PKgTM04vvSNvMAS=fqxt139=uZ0Hrpt6OCWK9_VcKV=Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <fc874b6e-4427-c4d6-b192-a08cbc8c8ea9@comcast.net>

I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for 
instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking 
power, more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit; some 
have 600A or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700). An 
inductive load, like a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all current 
available for a split second, until inductance increases impedance. You 
might very well blow this fuse every time you try to start your car.

There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the 
conclusion was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The 
simpler answer is to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a lot 
of damage can happen even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge, most/all 
modern cars have no protection on starter systems either.

Bob

On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the AHCA New 
> England?chapter, one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from 
> the battery to the the starter grounding out against the chassis, the 
> insulation worn out from decades of chaffing.? ?Needless to say, lots 
> of smoke and heat were generated.
>
> After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories 
> like this.? ?Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse?? ?Fuses like 
> this style 500A fuse 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4>?range 
> from 30A to 600A.? ?That seems like enough power to run the starter 
> and still provide protection against direct short damage.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> - Tom
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Mar 11 12:02:13 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 14:02:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
References: <0F8F1711-946C-4CA6-8260-4433464F7354.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0F8F1711-946C-4CA6-8260-4433464F7354@aol.com>

I?m not in favor of putting anything extra between the battery and the starter.  Basic regular inspection and repair will suffice to keep our 50 plus year old cars as reliable as possible for regular driving. Chaffed wires, dented or leaking fuel and brake lines, bad connections on exhaust and the list goes on. Our AH?s will  never be the same as jumping in your new Ford or Nissan or what ever without contemplating the possibility of a failure or issue of some sort along the trip. True that many folks drive their old  car regularly and long distances but it?s just not the same as driving most newer cars. 
P

Sent from my iPhone

From dayton21 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 11 12:20:44 2021
From: dayton21 at comcast.net (mitchell simmons)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 14:20:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheel
In-Reply-To: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
References: <8F4936BB-D3D6-47E4-BFA0-F90C79EC7EE5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <26E236EB-674B-4598-BC40-E42824BCB78B@comcast.net>

Thanks to all??for your input,

Cheers
Mitch

> On Mar 10, 2021, at 2:29 PM, mitchell simmons <dayton21 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> Anybody lightening and balancing flywheels ????TOMS TOYS use to?. but no more
> 
> Thanks
> Mitch


From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Mar 11 12:21:18 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 19:21:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <0F8F1711-946C-4CA6-8260-4433464F7354@aol.com>
References: <0F8F1711-946C-4CA6-8260-4433464F7354.ref@aol.com>
 <0F8F1711-946C-4CA6-8260-4433464F7354@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1212389542.247740.1615490478228@mail.yahoo.com>

On the plus side, when I am driving my Healey, even on extended road trips, it is highly unlikely that I will fall asleep.Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Mar 11, 2021 1:02 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses

I?m not in favor of putting anything extra between the battery and the starter.? Basic regular inspection and repair will suffice to keep our 50 plus year old cars as reliable as possible for regular driving. Chaffed wires, dented or leaking fuel and brake lines, bad connections on exhaust and the list goes on. Our AH?s will? never be the same as jumping in your new Ford or Nissan or what ever without contemplating the possibility of a failure or issue of some sort along the trip. True that many folks drive their old? car regularly and long distances but it?s just not the same as driving most newer cars. 
P



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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Mar 11 14:56:33 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2021 16:56:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Start Switch--conclusion
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6q4KSV3DUi8y6FqwLwWpSkwF-0pO-doKJ8h8G6xdQoiA@mail.gmail.com>

I have a new switch on order and was going to wait for its arrival next
week to install it and relegate the existing switch to the "Questionable
Parts" bin.  But the weather here in Southern Maryland is outstanding and I
really want to get away this weekend--either to the VA Tidewater area or
Fredericksburg, VA.

So notwithstanding my having been warned that a switch, once failed, may
indeed fail again I wrapped everything up today using the existing one,
hoping that the problem was simply with the connections at its rear. If it
craps out I can easily jump around it (Famous last words).

Best--Michael Oritt
BN1
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Fri Mar 12 09:29:24 2021
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2021 11:29:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuses
In-Reply-To: <fc874b6e-4427-c4d6-b192-a08cbc8c8ea9@comcast.net>
References: <CANQM1PKgTM04vvSNvMAS=fqxt139=uZ0Hrpt6OCWK9_VcKV=Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <fc874b6e-4427-c4d6-b192-a08cbc8c8ea9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PKEqj9uwrJuKSknyarxhFL4-X5u3WQBise_ctZxwKhsNQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Thanks for the pointer to the BCF discussion.   For anyone who's
interested,  here's a link to the discussion from two years ago:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/battery-fuse-protection.115642/
 It's a long thread, and worth the read for points both philosophical and
practical.

- Tom

On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:59 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for
> instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking power,
> more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit; some have 600A
> or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700). An inductive load, like
> a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all current available for a split second,
> until inductance increases impedance. You might very well blow this fuse
> every time you try to start your car.
>
> There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the conclusion
> was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The simpler answer is
> to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a lot of damage can happen
> even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge, most/all modern cars have no
> protection on starter systems either.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>
> At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the  AHCA New
> England chapter, one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from the
> battery to the the starter grounding out against the chassis, the
> insulation worn out from decades of chaffing.   Needless to say, lots of
> smoke and heat were generated.
>
> After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories like
> this.   Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse?   Fuses like this style 500A
> fuse
> <https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4> range
> from 30A to 600A.   That seems like enough power to run the starter and
> still provide protection against direct short damage.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> - Tom
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Mar 12 09:57:20 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2021 08:57:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Start Switch--conclusion
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6q4KSV3DUi8y6FqwLwWpSkwF-0pO-doKJ8h8G6xdQoiA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6q4KSV3DUi8y6FqwLwWpSkwF-0pO-doKJ8h8G6xdQoiA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89-4hVL5qa-1AnJPjizq8ZFDGhYT3bD_Tt1+gUVKUP3FQ@mail.gmail.com>

I always used to carry a jumper set as I had a wonky ignition switch. Its
still in my travel tool kit.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, Mar 11, 2021, 1:57 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a new switch on order and was going to wait for its arrival next
> week to install it and relegate the existing switch to the "Questionable
> Parts" bin.  But the weather here in Southern Maryland is outstanding and I
> really want to get away this weekend--either to the VA Tidewater area or
> Fredericksburg, VA.
>
> So notwithstanding my having been warned that a switch, once failed, may
> indeed fail again I wrapped everything up today using the existing one,
> hoping that the problem was simply with the connections at its rear. If it
> craps out I can easily jump around it (Famous last words).
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Fri Mar 12 10:29:45 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2021 17:29:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey "comes home"
Message-ID: <7160b7ab-fd31-1b11-e0bb-27f3597cdc54@summaventures.com>

Dear All,

after about 12 years I got the opportunity through her PO, Ian Horn, to
buy back my 100/6. He said that it was extremely pleased to sell it to
me, knowing a bit about her history.

As some of you may recall she is a BN4 that has been upgraded to the
similar spec to the works rally car, PMO203, that was the most developed
 - and ultimately most campaigned - 100/6. As a result (being a BN4) she
represents what UOC 741 or VOK 490 might have evolved into by the end of
the '59 season.

My thanks to Ian and to Bill O'Brien, for all that they have done to her
and for the care that they have taken of her down the years.

Attached is a photo.

Peter Dzwig
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Mar 12 11:12:52 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2021 18:12:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey "comes home"
In-Reply-To: <7160b7ab-fd31-1b11-e0bb-27f3597cdc54@summaventures.com>
References: <7160b7ab-fd31-1b11-e0bb-27f3597cdc54@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <541651936.241071.1615572772613@mail.yahoo.com>

It is beautiful. It is very tastefully prepared. I would like to see an interior shot if available & while I am asking, how about an engine bay photo, too?
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 12, 2021 11:29 am
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey "comes home"

Dear All,

after about 12 years I got the opportunity through her PO, Ian Horn, to
buy back my 100/6. He said that it was extremely pleased to sell it to
me, knowing a bit about her history.

As some of you may recall she is a BN4 that has been upgraded to the
similar spec to the works rally car, PMO203, that was the most developed
 - and ultimately most campaigned - 100/6. As a result (being a BN4) she
represents what UOC 741 or VOK 490 might have evolved into by the end of
the '59 season.

My thanks to Ian and to Bill O'Brien, for all that they have done to her
and for the care that they have taken of her down the years.

Attached is a photo.

Peter Dzwig
-- 


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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 12 14:49:02 2021
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2021 21:49:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey "comes home"
In-Reply-To: <541651936.241071.1615572772613@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <7160b7ab-fd31-1b11-e0bb-27f3597cdc54@summaventures.com>
 <541651936.241071.1615572772613@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <745623892.227998.1615585742759@mail.yahoo.com>

 Congratulations. ?It's always exciting when a prodigal son returns
Joe
    On Friday, March 12, 2021, 01:13:24 PM EST, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 It is beautiful. It is very tastefully prepared. I would like to see an interior shot if available & while I am asking, how about an engine bay photo, too?
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 12, 2021 11:29 am
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey "comes home"

Dear All,

after about 12 years I got the opportunity through her PO, Ian Horn, to
buy back my 100/6. He said that it was extremely pleased to sell it to
me, knowing a bit about her history.

As some of you may recall she is a BN4 that has been upgraded to the
similar spec to the works rally car, PMO203, that was the most developed
 - and ultimately most campaigned - 100/6. As a result (being a BN4) she
represents what UOC 741 or VOK 490 might have evolved into by the end of
the '59 season.

My thanks to Ian and to Bill O'Brien, for all that they have done to her
and for the care that they have taken of her down the years.

Attached is a photo.

Peter Dzwig
-- 


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Fri Mar 12 17:09:56 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2021 00:09:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey comes home - interior
Message-ID: <83d333c4-3ade-cd22-31f9-82ee305932d0@summaventures.com>

For some reason this seems to have got stuck, possibly the original with
both these shots was too big. So here's the intetrior

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Fri Mar 12 17:12:15 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2021 00:12:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey comes home - engine bay
Message-ID: <5e2fed7f-6da7-80f8-6cda-cc9216de4204@summaventures.com>

Ditto the engine bay.

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Mar 12 17:43:09 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2021 00:43:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey comes home - engine bay
In-Reply-To: <5e2fed7f-6da7-80f8-6cda-cc9216de4204@summaventures.com>
References: <5e2fed7f-6da7-80f8-6cda-cc9216de4204@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <818776557.452617.1615596189730@mail.yahoo.com>

Thank you.


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Friday, March 12, 2021, 7:12 PM, Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Ditto the engine bay.

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Mar 13 06:55:28 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2021 13:55:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey comes home - engine bay
In-Reply-To: <5e2fed7f-6da7-80f8-6cda-cc9216de4204@summaventures.com>
References: <5e2fed7f-6da7-80f8-6cda-cc9216de4204@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <1652139088.416720.1615643728823@mail.yahoo.com>

The interior & engine bay look very good, too. In keeping with the vintage rallye car theme.
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 12, 2021 6:12 pm
Subject: [Healeys] A Healey comes home - engine bay

Ditto the engine bay.

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Mar 14 08:31:47 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 10:31:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
Message-ID: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>

Happy Sunday!,  I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED equivalent)
for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am concerned about
the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and wipers on.  I know it is
getting close to the measly 22 amp max output of the generator.

 

The manual has specs for the wiper motor: "normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 amps".
Then is gives "Stall Current" for the motor hot as 8 amps and for the cold
motor 14 amps.  My question is, what is "Stall Current"?  The draw is huge
compared to the normal running draw.  Also, by cold motor, I assume they
mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the engine temp would matter.
However, although I get it that electric motors generate some heat, I don't
think of them as "warming up", or running hot or cold, so the huge
difference between  "hot motor" and "cold motor" stall current further
confuses me.

 

Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.

 

BTW - regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as the
current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that bright piercing
light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a personal preference)
and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 W quartz halogen bulb.  I
also consider that I have been driving my BT7 for 46 years without spot
lamps and got along OK, so I question the need to go to LEDs, other than the
advantage of low current draw.  Any experiences from those of you who have
spot lamps with conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e.
BT/BN7 and earlier), would be appreciated.

 

Cheers, Mirek

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 14 09:36:12 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 11:36:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>

Mirek,

I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not 
able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the 
windshield.? I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical.? So 
someone else may have a better answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Happy Sunday!,? I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED 
> equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am 
> concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and 
> wipers on.? I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output 
> of the generator.
>
> The manual has specs for the wiper motor: ?normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 
> amps?. Then is gives ?Stall Current? for the motor hot as 8 amps and 
> for the cold motor 14 amps.? My question is, what is ?Stall Current??? 
> The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw.? Also, by cold 
> motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the 
> engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric 
> motors generate some heat, I don?t think of them as ?warming up?, or 
> running hot or cold, so the huge difference between ??hot motor? and 
> ?cold motor? stall current further confuses me.
>
> Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.
>
> BTW ? regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as 
> the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that 
> bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a 
> personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 
> W quartz halogen bulb.? I also consider that I have been driving my 
> BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question 
> the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw.? 
> Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with 
> conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and 
> earlier), would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 14 09:42:51 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 11:42:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJKs6NEWeKsMT1ZK7qfK-YBKtXfPHEeryuwL27nhmggiA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Bob I would agree and when the motor is cold it will pass more current
as I understand it.

M

On Sun., Mar. 14, 2021, 11:36 a.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Mirek,
>
> I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not
> able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the
> windshield.  I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical.  So
> someone else may have a better answer.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > Happy Sunday!,  I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED
> > equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am
> > concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and
> > wipers on.  I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output
> > of the generator.
> >
> > The manual has specs for the wiper motor: ?normal running: 2.3 to 3.1
> > amps?. Then is gives ?Stall Current? for the motor hot as 8 amps and
> > for the cold motor 14 amps.  My question is, what is ?Stall Current??
> > The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw.  Also, by cold
> > motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the
> > engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric
> > motors generate some heat, I don?t think of them as ?warming up?, or
> > running hot or cold, so the huge difference between  ?hot motor? and
> > ?cold motor? stall current further confuses me.
> >
> > Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.
> >
> > BTW ? regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as
> > the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that
> > bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a
> > personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48
> > W quartz halogen bulb.  I also consider that I have been driving my
> > BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question
> > the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw.
> > Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with
> > conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and
> > earlier), would be appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers, Mirek
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Mar 14 10:47:26 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 12:47:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <004301d718f1$b75f9ac0$261ed040$@sympatico.ca>

A sign of my advancing years and arcane brain is that I often forget to just
"google it".  The inter-web says:

"Stall current is the maximum current drawn, when the motor is applying its
maximum torque, either because it is being prevented from moving entirely or
because it can no longer accelerate given the load it is under."

Given that, I imagine that the draw will increase as resistance in the wiper
mechanism increases.  So old, stiff grease, general wear, bushings in the
wheel boxes creating friction, etc., will all increase the current draw.
Unless I actually find the energy and initiative to go out and measure it, I
think I'll use something like 5-6A in my calculations.

Still happy to hear opinions/experience on bulbs (halogen vs LED) for the
spot lamps.

Cheers, Mirek





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> 
Sent: March 14, 2021 11:36 AM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

Mirek,

I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not
able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the
windshield.? I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical.? So someone
else may have a better answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Happy Sunday!,? I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED
> equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am 
> concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and 
> wipers on.? I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output 
> of the generator.
>
> The manual has specs for the wiper motor: ?normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 
> amps?. Then is gives ?Stall Current? for the motor hot as 8 amps and 
> for the cold motor 14 amps.? My question is, what is ?Stall Current??
> The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw.? Also, by cold 
> motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the 
> engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric 
> motors generate some heat, I don?t think of them as ?warming up?, or 
> running hot or cold, so the huge difference between ??hot motor? and 
> ?cold motor? stall current further confuses me.
>
> Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.
>
> BTW ? regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as 
> the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that 
> bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a 
> personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 
> W quartz halogen bulb.? I also consider that I have been driving my
> BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question 
> the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw.
> Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with 
> conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and 
> earlier), would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Mar 14 10:49:24 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 12:49:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net> 
Message-ID: <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>

Thank Bob and Mike, that makes intuitive sense based on the term ?stall
current?, but I am surprised that they would give  that as a specification,
which is why I though it might be something else.  Why would they provide a
stall current for wipers, but not the starter motor, which can also lock up?
Also, if  the stall current for the wiper cold is 14 A, then why not put a
10A fuse on the circuit to save the motor if something jams?

Mirek

-----Original Message-----
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> 
Sent: March 14, 2021 12:47 PM
To: 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; 'healeys at autox.team.net'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

A sign of my advancing years and arcane brain is that I often forget to just
"google it".  The inter-web says:

"Stall current is the maximum current drawn, when the motor is applying its
maximum torque, either because it is being prevented from moving entirely or
because it can no longer accelerate given the load it is under."

Given that, I imagine that the draw will increase as resistance in the wiper
mechanism increases.  So old, stiff grease, general wear, bushings in the
wheel boxes creating friction, etc., will all increase the current draw.
Unless I actually find the energy and initiative to go out and measure it, I
think I'll use something like 5-6A in my calculations.

Still happy to hear opinions/experience on bulbs (halogen vs LED) for the
spot lamps.

Cheers, Mirek





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Sent: March 14, 2021 11:36 AM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

Mirek,

I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not
able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the
windshield.? I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical.? So someone
else may have a better answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Happy Sunday!,? I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED
> equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am 
> concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and 
> wipers on.? I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output 
> of the generator.
>
> The manual has specs for the wiper motor: ?normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 
> amps?. Then is gives ?Stall Current? for the motor hot as 8 amps and 
> for the cold motor 14 amps.? My question is, what is ?Stall Current??
> The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw.? Also, by cold 
> motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the 
> engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric 
> motors generate some heat, I don?t think of them as ?warming up?, or 
> running hot or cold, so the huge difference between ??hot motor? and 
> ?cold motor? stall current further confuses me.
>
> Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.
>
> BTW ? regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as 
> the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that 
> bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a 
> personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 
> W quartz halogen bulb.? I also consider that I have been driving my
> BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question 
> the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw.
> Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with 
> conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and 
> earlier), would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From manifold at telus.net  Sun Mar 14 11:03:14 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 10:03:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>

This page from an old Lucas service manual may help 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2021 9:49 AM
To: 'Bob Haskell'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

Thank Bob and Mike, that makes intuitive sense based on the term ?stall
current?, but I am surprised that they would give  that as a specification,
which is why I though it might be something else.  Why would they provide a
stall current for wipers, but not the starter motor, which can also lock up?
Also, if  the stall current for the wiper cold is 14 A, then why not put a
10A fuse on the circuit to save the motor if something jams?

Mirek

-----Original Message-----
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
Sent: March 14, 2021 12:47 PM
To: 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; 'healeys at autox.team.net'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

A sign of my advancing years and arcane brain is that I often forget to just
"google it".  The inter-web says:

"Stall current is the maximum current drawn, when the motor is applying its
maximum torque, either because it is being prevented from moving entirely or
because it can no longer accelerate given the load it is under."

Given that, I imagine that the draw will increase as resistance in the wiper
mechanism increases.  So old, stiff grease, general wear, bushings in the
wheel boxes creating friction, etc., will all increase the current draw.
Unless I actually find the energy and initiative to go out and measure it, I
think I'll use something like 5-6A in my calculations.

Still happy to hear opinions/experience on bulbs (halogen vs LED) for the
spot lamps.

Cheers, Mirek





-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Sent: March 14, 2021 11:36 AM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

Mirek,

I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not
able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the
windshield.? I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical.? So someone
else may have a better answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Happy Sunday!,? I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED
> equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am 
> concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and 
> wipers on.? I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output 
> of the generator.
>
> The manual has specs for the wiper motor: ?normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 
> amps?. Then is gives ?Stall Current? for the motor hot as 8 amps and 
> for the cold motor 14 amps.? My question is, what is ?Stall Current??
> The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw.? Also, by cold 
> motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the 
> engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric 
> motors generate some heat, I don?t think of them as ?warming up?, or 
> running hot or cold, so the huge difference between ??hot motor? and 
> ?cold motor? stall current further confuses me.
>
> Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.
>
> BTW ? regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as 
> the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that 
> bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a 
> personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 
> W quartz halogen bulb.? I also consider that I have been driving my
> BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question 
> the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw.
> Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with 
> conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and 
> earlier), would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

-------------- next part --------------
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Name: Lucas Wiper Motor Current.pdf
Type: application/pdf
Size: 5410 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20210314/7d283e99/attachment.pdf>

From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Mar 14 11:58:26 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>

Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

This page from an old Lucas service manual may help 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20210314/ce6ec358/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 14 12:02:01 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 11:02:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <923ed9eb-f352-a603-fcc2-396cdfccfef1@comcast.net>

I did.

On 3/14/2021 10:58 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; 
> healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
>
> This page from an old Lucas service manual may help
>
>

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20210314/10556bc5/attachment.htm>

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Mar 14 12:43:29 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 11:43:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>

Yes:  this message

>OFFENDING COMMAND: get
>STACK:
>/quit
>-dictionary-
>-mark


>Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.netERROR: undefine

>
>This page from an old Lucas service manual may help 

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 14 13:49:54 2021
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 12:49:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9363A59DA18D471F99351C149C2DD49A@LeonardPCPC>


Two page pdf file. First page blank, second page had the following:
ERROR: undefined

OFFENDING COMMAND: get

STACK:

/quit

-dictionary-

-mark

(The Other) Len       
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: warthodson--- via Healeys 
  To: healeys at autox.team.net ; m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca ; rchaskell at earthlink.net 
  Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2021 10:58 AM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers


  Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment? 
  Gary


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
  To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers


  This page from an old Lucas service manual may help 





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Mar 14 13:56:12 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 19:56:12 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
 <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <003101d7190c$16b19e00$4414da00$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Yes, I got the error message too.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of sentenac.rw---
via Healeys
Sent: 14 March 2021 18:43
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

Yes:  this message

>OFFENDING COMMAND: get
>STACK:
>/quit
>-dictionary-
>-mark


>Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers

On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; 
>healeys at autox.team.netERROR: undefine

>
>This page from an old Lucas service manual may help

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 14 14:22:43 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2021 16:22:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <003101d7190c$16b19e00$4414da00$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
 <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>
 <003101d7190c$16b19e00$4414da00$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <5159caad-6d06-23f3-6597-9f63a17bcfd1@earthlink.net>

All big Healeys use the DR2 wiper motor?

See page 2 for the test data:
DR2: 
http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-5_issue2.pdf
DR3: 
http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-7_issue1.pdf

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/14/21 3:56 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
> Yes, I got the error message too.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of sentenac.rw---
> via Healeys
> Sent: 14 March 2021 18:43
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
>
> Yes:  this message
>
>> OFFENDING COMMAND: get
>> STACK:
>> /quit
>> -dictionary-
>> -mark
>
>> Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
> On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
>> Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>;
>> healeys at autox.team.netERROR: undefine
>> This page from an old Lucas service manual may help
> --
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> _______________________________________________
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 13:07:31 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 15:07:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
Message-ID: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>

Listers - 

The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit. 

As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid. 

1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
2.  What do the small beads represent?

I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road. 

Thank you in advance!!

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 13:23:44 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 12:23:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (fwd) Re:  Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
Message-ID: <01dv4g97530tumpjgcvijklqhaicoul113@4ax.com>

sorry, forgot to reply to all.

On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 12:22:20 -0700, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:

>Are you using DOT 3 or 4 fluid, or silicone?
>
>-Roland
>
>On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 15:07:31 -0400, you wrote:
>
>>Listers - 
>>
>>The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit. 
>>
>>As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid. 
>>
>>1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
>>2.  What do the small beads represent?
>>
>>I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road. 
>>
>>Thank you in advance!!
>>
>>Price Lindsay
>>
>>Cell: 630-841-6300
>>Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
>>_______________________________________________
>>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>Healeys at autox.team.net
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Mar 15 13:25:00 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 20:25:00 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl>

It may be time to overhaul the complete brake system and renew the brake 
lines and hoses. This looks like a massive contamination of water 
possibly due to not replacing the brake fluid regularly.

As rust was noticed in the fluid you may assume there is rust in the 
lines, thus unsafe at all times. Its a fairly straight forward job, not 
very costly. Use Cunifer or similar. Also check the bores and seals in 
the pistons, callipers and MBC.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 15-3-2021 om 20:07 schreef R. Lindsay via Healeys:
> Listers -
>
> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit.
>
> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid.
>
> 1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
> 2.  What do the small beads represent?
>
> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road.
>
> Thank you in advance!!
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 14:11:56 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 16:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (fwd) Re:  Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <01dv4g97530tumpjgcvijklqhaicoul113@4ax.com>
References: <01dv4g97530tumpjgcvijklqhaicoul113@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <3CFE278E-E51F-4C8C-934B-A0698B7D3911@gmail.com>

Dot 3. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:24 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> ?sorry, forgot to reply to all.
> 
>> On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 12:22:20 -0700, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>> Are you using DOT 3 or 4 fluid, or silicone?
>> 
>> -Roland
>> 
>>> On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 15:07:31 -0400, you wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers - 
>>> 
>>> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit. 
>>> 
>>> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid. 
>>> 
>>> 1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
>>> 2.  What do the small beads represent?
>>> 
>>> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road. 
>>> 
>>> Thank you in advance!!
>>> 
>>> Price Lindsay
>>> 
>>> Cell: 630-841-6300
>>> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>>> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 15:32:12 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 14:32:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (fwd) Re:  Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <3CFE278E-E51F-4C8C-934B-A0698B7D3911@gmail.com>
References: <01dv4g97530tumpjgcvijklqhaicoul113@4ax.com>
 <3CFE278E-E51F-4C8C-934B-A0698B7D3911@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <80kv4ghmipoj1peh6im21dlt64vq3q366b@4ax.com>

DOT 3 should be able to absorb a reasonable amount of moisture.  It is
silicone brake fluid that cannot.  So if you have water, or very wet
brake fluid and rust, I agree with Kees that your brake system is
badly compromised.  Time to renew it.  Getting the bends in new brake
lines exactly right can be a chore but you do have 'patterns' for each
piece, and it will be one less thing to worry about once it is done.

-Roland

On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 16:11:56 -0400, you wrote:

>Dot 3. 
>
>Price Lindsay
>
>Cell: 630-841-6300
>Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:24 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>> ?sorry, forgot to reply to all.
>> 
>>> On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 12:22:20 -0700, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are you using DOT 3 or 4 fluid, or silicone?
>>> 
>>> -Roland
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, 15 Mar 2021 15:07:31 -0400, you wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Listers - 
>>>> 
>>>> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit. 
>>>> 
>>>> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid. 
>>>> 
>>>> 1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
>>>> 2.  What do the small beads represent?
>>>> 
>>>> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road. 
>>>> 
>>>> Thank you in advance!!
>>>> 
>>>> Price Lindsay

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 15 16:59:31 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 22:59:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
Message-ID: <092f408af38ddcb70c3b352c65a2eb29a03db8b3@webmail>

The whitish beads are probably residue of red grease used to lubricate
the boot area and fittings. The "rust" color is old brake fluid
(probably originally Castrol Amber.) The clear liquid is hopefully
good Castrol LMA brake fluid and not water. Clean and flush is a for
sure. Brake fluid, being hydrophylic loves water intrusion.
I am doing a series of articles about Healey brakes in upcoming issues
of Austin-Healey Magazine which may/or may not be of interest to you.
The second installment is about rebuilding the master cylinder, but
the third is about rebuilding the booster canister. I think these
items are all in a Healey owners future maintainence program. I could
not believe the condition of my booster! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "R. Lindsay via
Healeys" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 15 2021 12:08:57PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder

 Listers -

 The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going
to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small
whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit.

 As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had
rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the
viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid.

 1. Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
 2. What do the small beads represent?

 I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the
brakes and get back on the road.

 Thank you in advance!!

 Price Lindsay

 Cell: 630-841-6300
 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

 Sent from my iPhone
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1]
http://autox.team.net/archive
 />
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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 Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From drtommitch at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 17:51:06 2021
From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 19:51:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <092f408af38ddcb70c3b352c65a2eb29a03db8b3@webmail>
References: <092f408af38ddcb70c3b352c65a2eb29a03db8b3@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAOqP0S+x0i42jRYBYcoTzfzY7p7+UJ6xrwc6=t8fu-Tfya3OVA@mail.gmail.com>

I've experienced water in my brake system, my first hint was that the
brakes were acting unevenly.
If fact scary, when I braked I would be in another lane.
The next hint was that the fluid in the reservoir was black.

I flushed the system, yet found that the rear cylinders were damaged and
the next year found that the calipers were damaged.
I then replaced everything, calipers, cylinders, hoses, fluid etc

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 7:01 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The whitish beads are probably residue of red grease used to lubricate the
> boot area and fittings. The "rust" color is old brake fluid (probably
> originally Castrol Amber.) The clear liquid is hopefully good Castrol LMA
> brake fluid and not water. Clean and flush is a for sure. Brake fluid,
> being hydrophylic loves water intrusion.
>
> I am doing a series of articles about Healey brakes in upcoming issues of
> Austin-Healey Magazine which may/or may not be of interest to you. The
> second installment is about rebuilding the master cylinder, but the third
> is about rebuilding the booster canister. I think these items are all in a
> Healey owners future maintainence program. I could not believe the
> condition of my booster!  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys"
> To: "Healey List"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday March 15 2021 12:08:57PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
>
> Listers -
>
> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to
> replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear
> ?beads? on and around the unit.
>
> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in
> it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of
> water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid.
>
> 1. Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
> 2. What do the small beads represent?
>
> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes
> and get back on the road.
>
> Thank you in advance!!
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> /> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: <http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr>
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> />
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> <http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> />
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 19:12:08 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 21:12:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <092f408af38ddcb70c3b352c65a2eb29a03db8b3@webmail>
References: <092f408af38ddcb70c3b352c65a2eb29a03db8b3@webmail>
Message-ID: <FF06BF15-5263-4DC0-A172-10F047BE6DD0@gmail.com>

Thanks Hank. Good advice!

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 6:59 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> 
> ?The whitish beads are probably residue of red grease used to lubricate the boot area and fittings. The "rust" color is old brake fluid (probably originally Castrol Amber.) The clear liquid is hopefully good Castrol LMA brake fluid and not water. Clean and flush is a for sure. Brake fluid, being hydrophylic loves water intrusion.
> 
> I am doing a series of articles about Healey brakes in upcoming issues of Austin-Healey Magazine which may/or may not be of interest to you. The second installment is about rebuilding the master cylinder, but the third is about rebuilding the booster canister. I think these items are all in a Healey owners future maintainence program. I could not believe the condition of my booster!  Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys" 
> To: "Healey List"
> Cc: 
> Sent: Monday March 15 2021 12:08:57PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
> 
> Listers -
> 
> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit.
> 
> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid.
> 
> 1. Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
> 2. What do the small beads represent?
> 
> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road.
> 
> Thank you in advance!!
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> /> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> />
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Mar 15 19:26:11 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 21:26:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
 <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl> 
Message-ID: <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>


Happened to me. The solution was to replace the brake lines, clutch line, master cylinder, slave cylinder and flex hoses. Thank god Mr. Finespanner was still alive. Everything went on in a day. Brakes and clutch worked better than new.

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2021 3:25 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder

It may be time to overhaul the complete brake system and renew the brake lines and hoses. This looks like a massive contamination of water possibly due to not replacing the brake fluid regularly.

As rust was noticed in the fluid you may assume there is rust in the lines, thus unsafe at all times. Its a fairly straight forward job, not very costly. Use Cunifer or similar. Also check the bores and seals in the pistons, callipers and MBC.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 15-3-2021 om 20:07 schreef R. Lindsay via Healeys:
> Listers -
>
> The right rear cylinder on my 67 BJ8 has a small leak and I am going to replace it. When I removed it, I noticed several small whitish/clear ?beads? on and around the unit.
>
> As I drained the fluid, I noticed, at the beginning, the fluid had rust in it. As it continued to flow, the liquid turned clear with the viscosity of water. Thereafter, it looked like clean fluid.
>
> 1.  Does the fluid show any additional issues I should look into?
> 2.  What do the small beads represent?
>
> I will flush the system before I refill the reservoir, bleed the brakes and get back on the road.
>
> Thank you in advance!!
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Mar 16 08:53:46 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 14:53:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
 <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl>
 <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1928521366.1200465.1615906426856@mail.yahoo.com>

Is there a current source for pre-bent brake lines?
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 15, 2021 8:26 pm
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder


Happened to me. The solution was to replace the brake lines, clutch line, master cylinder, slave cylinder and flex hoses. Thank god Mr. Finespanner was still alive. Everything went on in a day. Brakes and clutch worked better than new.

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ


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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Mar 16 10:15:29 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 16:15:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-bent brake lines
In-Reply-To: <000001d71a7d$d5a89b70$80f9d250$@verizon.net>
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
 <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl>
 <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>
 <1928521366.1200465.1615906426856@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d71a7d$d5a89b70$80f9d250$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <931292753.1230365.1615911329736@mail.yahoo.com>

That is a good source for pre-fabricated lines, but not for pre-bent lines.
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
To: warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2021 11:02 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder

#yiv2219980261 #yiv2219980261 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2219980261 #yiv2219980261 p.yiv2219980261MsoNormal, #yiv2219980261 li.yiv2219980261MsoNormal, #yiv2219980261 div.yiv2219980261MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2219980261 a:link, #yiv2219980261 span.yiv2219980261MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2219980261 span.yiv2219980261EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:bold;}#yiv2219980261 .yiv2219980261MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv2219980261 div.yiv2219980261WordSection1 {}#yiv2219980261 Try Austin Healey brake line kits ? Vintage line (thevintageline.com) ?John Simswww.healey6.comMatawan, NJ ?From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 10:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder ?Is there a current source for pre-bent brake lines?
Gary
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Tue Mar 16 10:46:03 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 09:46:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-bent brake lines
In-Reply-To: <931292753.1230365.1615911329736@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
 <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl>
 <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>
 <1928521366.1200465.1615906426856@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d71a7d$d5a89b70$80f9d250$@verizon.net>
 <931292753.1230365.1615911329736@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C6E460B102AB4B43A0D06A21E2D6F056@DavidNockHP>

Yes we have pre bent sets available.  in both stainlees steel and mild steel


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: warthodson--- via Healeys 
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 9:15 AM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-bent brake lines

That is a good source for pre-fabricated lines, but not for pre-bent lines.
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
To: warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2021 11:02 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder


Try Austin Healey brake line kits ? Vintage line (thevintageline.com)

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 10:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder

Is there a current source for pre-bent brake lines?
Gary



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Mar 16 20:52:38 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 19:52:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?brake_fluid?=
Message-ID: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>

a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see 
the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 16 22:44:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 21:44:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>

Anybody tried test strips?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&

Dunno why there'd be copper in BF, unless you have cupronickel lines.


On 3/16/2021 7:52 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
> the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 00:43:29 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 14:43:29 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+TU6E2z4wNi6-7r666fx8zvgQJgrwxr9rvL+Evgp7t+w@mail.gmail.com>

water is a huge problem here in HK if you leave your car sitting too long,
unless everything is converted to SS liners, etc.,


On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Anybody tried test strips?
>
>
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&
>
> Dunno why there'd be copper in BF, unless you have cupronickel lines.
>
>
> On 3/16/2021 7:52 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> > a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking
> fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
> > the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for
> me since then.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Mar 17 01:45:40 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 08:45:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>

I rather replace the brake fluid every two years including flushing the 
full system.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-3-2021 om 03:52 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
> the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From banjojohn at cox.net  Wed Mar 17 09:20:33 2021
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John OBrien)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 10:20:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a good solid BJ8 trunk lid
Message-ID: <0046aca5-4997-45ac-259d-c02e83609139@cox.net>

Hi forum members:

I am looking for a good solid trunk lid that would fit a BJ8.? In 
looking in the Moss catalog, it looks like all the trunk lids are the 
same for all models, but I am not positive about that. Anyway, I live in 
Bellevue Nebraska, so it would need to be somewhere that I could get it 
for a reasonable price and minimal shipping costs.


Thanks for any help

John O'Brien

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)


From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 11:05:00 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 13:05:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid
Message-ID: <00dd01d71b4f$aa7f6140$ff7e23c0$@gmail.com>

John and all: 

I don?t have a solid steel trunk lid, but do have a good fiberglass trunk lid available. 

I think I kept it when I sold that car thinking I might mount the luggage rack to it and just swap out lids on my current BJ-8 when needed, but never followed through on that thought....

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John OBrien
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 11:21 AM
To: 'healeys at autox team. net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a good solid BJ8 trunk lid

Hi forum members:

I am looking for a good solid trunk lid that would fit a BJ8.  In looking in the Moss catalog, it looks like all the trunk lids are the same for all models, but I am not positive about that. Anyway, I live in Bellevue Nebraska, so it would need to be somewhere that I could get it for a reasonable price and minimal shipping costs.


Thanks for any help

John O'Brien

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Mar 17 11:28:14 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 10:28:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+TU6E2z4wNi6-7r666fx8zvgQJgrwxr9rvL+Evgp7t+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+TU6E2z4wNi6-7r666fx8zvgQJgrwxr9rvL+Evgp7t+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNFKeM3xcNP_GQgeGzz=yX5Um3RnqzgQDp0RFnU_tziRw@mail.gmail.com>

Any opinions on these electronic brake fluid moisture detectors ?

https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+tester&qid=1616001760&sr=8-9

There are also numerous cheaper pen style ones too - tried one a few years
back but batt compartment corroded ....
rg

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 11:44 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> water is a huge problem here in HK if you leave your car sitting too long,
> unless everything is converted to SS liners, etc.,
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Anybody tried test strips?
>>
>>
>> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&
>>
>> Dunno why there'd be copper in BF, unless you have cupronickel lines.
>>
>>
>> On 3/16/2021 7:52 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
>> > a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking
>> fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
>> > the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working
>> for me since then.
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Mar 17 11:56:30 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 18:56:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNFKeM3xcNP_GQgeGzz=yX5Um3RnqzgQDp0RFnU_tziRw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+TU6E2z4wNi6-7r666fx8zvgQJgrwxr9rvL+Evgp7t+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNFKeM3xcNP_GQgeGzz=yX5Um3RnqzgQDp0RFnU_tziRw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d570e63f-5778-47fb-b9fc-7f8d200cf117@chello.nl>

Fairly useless, when you want to use it the battery will be empty 
empty/corroded or you cannot find the damn thing. Water absorption may 
not be evenly distributed throughout the system.

Another bit of kit to be stored and to get lost. I have shelves full of 
such "useful" items but rarely use them.

Just change the brake fluid every two years and you are OK. Brake fluid 
(DOT4) is inexpensive and widely available. Do not buy in bulk, just get 
1/2 litre for the change and keep the remainder for topping up. Get rid 
of the spare fluid after the two years with the next change.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 17-3-2021 om 18:28 schreef Roger Grace via Healeys:
> Any opinions on these electronic brake fluid moisture detectors ?
>
> https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+tester&qid=1616001760&sr=8-9 
> <https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+tester&qid=1616001760&sr=8-9>
>
> There are also numerous cheaper pen style ones too - tried one a few 
> years back but batt compartment corroded ....
> rg
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 11:44 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     water is a huge problem here in HK if you leave your car sitting
>     too long, unless everything is converted to SS liners, etc.,
>
>
>     On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         Anybody tried test strips?
>
>         https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&
>         <https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&>
>
>         Dunno why there'd be copper in BF, unless you have cupronickel
>         lines.
>
>
>         On 3/16/2021 7:52 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
>         > a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave
>         Nock checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
>         > the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.? been
>         working for me since then.
>         >
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 12:20:46 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 14:20:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>

Kees:

How do you and what do you use to flush the brake system.

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 3:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid

I rather replace the brake fluid every two years including flushing the full
system.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-3-2021 om 03:52 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock 
> checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see the bottom of
the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 17 12:47:09 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 18:47:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <d570e63f-5778-47fb-b9fc-7f8d200cf117@chello.nl>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <78c4766e-47ec-d656-afb4-7dd2c203d91f@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+TU6E2z4wNi6-7r666fx8zvgQJgrwxr9rvL+Evgp7t+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNFKeM3xcNP_GQgeGzz=yX5Um3RnqzgQDp0RFnU_tziRw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <d570e63f-5778-47fb-b9fc-7f8d200cf117@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB4276DDA7A30D0E542AC39FD7BF6A9@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I have used the pencil style moisture meter but it lasted about a year.  It did work and I discovered the fluid was usually good for three years or so. Shade tree mechanics like to change your fluid based on guess and gullibility. I just bleed my brakes every two years or so but my track cars I do after nearly every event. I use DOT 3 or 4 (high temp on the track cars). Doing it also helps keep the bleeder valves from freezing up and breaking off.  I rebuilt the Healey brakes last year when the left front caliper started hanging up causing the hub to get hot. All new lines from Moss and a caliperrebuilt and paint by White Post over in Virginia. My hoses and lines were virtually blocked with crud and I'm surprised they even stopped me. The rear drums were OK but I needed new seals on the pistons. Not a difficult DIY task. My bad for not being smart on doing it sooner.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 10:56 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid


Fairly useless, when you want to use it the battery will be empty empty/corroded or you cannot find the damn thing. Water absorption may not be evenly distributed throughout the system.

Another bit of kit to be stored and to get lost. I have shelves full of such "useful" items but rarely use them.

Just change the brake fluid every two years and you are OK. Brake fluid (DOT4) is inexpensive and widely available. Do not buy in bulk, just get 1/2 litre for the change and keep the remainder for topping up. Get rid of the spare fluid after the two years with the next change.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 17-3-2021 om 18:28 schreef Roger Grace via Healeys:
Any opinions on these electronic brake fluid moisture detectors ?

https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=brake+fluid+tester&qid=1616001760&sr=8-9

There are also numerous cheaper pen style ones too - tried one a few years back but batt compartment corroded ....
rg

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>     Virus-free. www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 11:44 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
water is a huge problem here in HK if you leave your car sitting too long, unless everything is converted to SS liners, etc.,


On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
Anybody tried test strips?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002559?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google_monthly-special_202102&campaign=GSC-Promos&campaign_id=6478906937&adgroup_id=78844950918&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYokz4UYNX12lguqGjAZi5La7N8ZxtgQ2DpBFTTtloG87dF5E6569EgaAsMtEALw_wcB&

Dunno why there'd be copper in BF, unless you have cupronickel lines.


On 3/16/2021 7:52 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see
> the bottom of the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
>

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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Mar 17 13:48:16 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 20:48:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>

Bob,

I have used a Gunson Eezibleed Kit for donkeys years. The first kit was 
bought around 1965, later was ones followed as these were constantly 
improved upon. However you can improvise on this with a bicycle inner tyre.

Basically you pressurize the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleed 
nipples one by one until clear and bubble free liquid appears. You need 
to get used to the system to avoid spillages and you have to top up the 
brake fluid reservoir after flushing each line.

Others use a vacuum hand pump to draw the fluid through the bleed nipples.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-3-2021 om 19:20 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com:
> Kees:
>
> How do you and what do you use to flush the brake system.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
> via Healeys
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 3:46 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid
>
> I rather replace the brake fluid every two years including flushing the full
> system.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 17-3-2021 om 03:52 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock
>> checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see the bottom of
> the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
>> donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Mar 17 15:42:42 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 17:42:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid
In-Reply-To: <00dd01d71b4f$aa7f6140$ff7e23c0$@gmail.com>
References: <00dd01d71b4f$aa7f6140$ff7e23c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <241939109.10068642.1616017362054.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Al, 

Will it fit a 100-4 and, if so, how much do you want for it? 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "alfuller194--- via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: "John OBrien" <banjojohn at cox.net>, "healeys at autox team. net" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 12:05:00 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid 

John and all: 

I don?t have a solid steel trunk lid, but do have a good fiberglass trunk lid available. 

I think I kept it when I sold that car thinking I might mount the luggage rack to it and just swap out lids on my current BJ-8 when needed, but never followed through on that thought.... 

---------------- 
All the best, 

Al Fuller 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John OBrien 
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 11:21 AM 
To: 'healeys at autox team. net' <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a good solid BJ8 trunk lid 

Hi forum members: 

I am looking for a good solid trunk lid that would fit a BJ8. In looking in the Moss catalog, it looks like all the trunk lids are the same for all models, but I am not positive about that. Anyway, I live in Bellevue Nebraska, so it would need to be somewhere that I could get it for a reasonable price and minimal shipping costs. 


Thanks for any help 

John O'Brien 

'61 Bugeye (Lucy) 

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn) 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 17 15:52:01 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 21:52:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid
In-Reply-To: <241939109.10068642.1616017362054.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <00dd01d71b4f$aa7f6140$ff7e23c0$@gmail.com>,
 <241939109.10068642.1616017362054.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507AFE3659814C45E1DD08DD16A9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Trunk lid for the 100 and the 6 cylinder cars ar completely different.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Charles Schott via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: March 17, 2021 4:43 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com<mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox team. net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid

Al,

Will it fit a 100-4 and, if so, how much do you want for it?

Regards,

Charlie


From: "alfuller194--- via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: "John OBrien" <banjojohn at cox.net>, "healeys at autox team. net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 12:05:00 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey solid BJ8 trunk lid

John and all:

I don?t have a solid steel trunk lid, but do have a good fiberglass trunk lid available.

I think I kept it when I sold that car thinking I might mount the luggage rack to it and just swap out lids on my current BJ-8 when needed, but never followed through on that thought....

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John OBrien
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 11:21 AM
To: 'healeys at autox team. net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a good solid BJ8 trunk lid

Hi forum members:

I am looking for a good solid trunk lid that would fit a BJ8.  In looking in the Moss catalog, it looks like all the trunk lids are the same for all models, but I am not positive about that. Anyway, I live in Bellevue Nebraska, so it would need to be somewhere that I could get it for a reasonable price and minimal shipping costs.


Thanks for any help

John O'Brien

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

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From pollpete at ix.netcom.com  Wed Mar 17 16:35:05 2021
From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 15:35:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-bent brake lines (cupro-nickel)
In-Reply-To: <931292753.1230365.1615911329736@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <FA2971D7-83ED-4EA8-931E-2E516A768E09@gmail.com>
 <f4f0fd64-d598-073e-2935-533b9dda31e3@chello.nl>
 <000701d71a03$5a155310$0e3ff930$@verizon.net>
 <1928521366.1200465.1615906426856@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000001d71a7d$d5a89b70$80f9d250$@verizon.net>
 <931292753.1230365.1615911329736@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6bc2edbe-9942-a67a-dcc9-15571c0e3496@ix.netcom.com>

Last year I did a full brake system rebuild from scratch for my wife's splendid 
little '69 Karmann Ghia (her first car), using cupro-nicklel lines of the same 
specs as those in the link.? A delight to work with and not expensive:? one $40 
25' coil did the whole car.? It does work harden so it pays to do trials of the 
more extreme bends first using heavy copper wire- or get two coils.? When I 
tackle the Healey I'll likely use John's linked source (flairs are a pain) but 
with a trial coil.?? Tubing: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XW5ZP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks to John for the made-up set source.

Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California

On 3/16/2021 9:15 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> That is a good source for pre-fabricated lines, but not for pre-bent lines.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> Sent: Tue, Mar 16, 2021 11:02 am
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
>
> *Try *Austin Healey brake line kits ? Vintage line (thevintageline.com) 
> <https://thevintageline.com/austin-healey-brake-line-kits/>**
> **
> *John Sims*
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
> *Matawan, NJ*
> **
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- 
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 16, 2021 10:54 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] FW: Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder
> Is there a current source for pre-bent brake lines?
> Gary
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pollpete at ix.netcom.com
>

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Mar 17 17:25:29 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 23:25:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
References: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone know where I can get the dowel bolts required to mount the transmission to the block of my BN2?Mike MacLean
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 19:38:17 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>

The vacuum hand pumps don't work well with drum brakes, especially on the
100.  Better to go with ezibleed.


On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 3:49 AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I have used a Gunson Eezibleed Kit for donkeys years. The first kit was
> bought around 1965, later was ones followed as these were constantly
> improved upon. However you can improvise on this with a bicycle inner tyre.
>
> Basically you pressurize the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleed
> nipples one by one until clear and bubble free liquid appears. You need
> to get used to the system to avoid spillages and you have to top up the
> brake fluid reservoir after flushing each line.
>
> Others use a vacuum hand pump to draw the fluid through the bleed nipples.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 17-3-2021 om 19:20 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com:
> > Kees:
> >
> > How do you and what do you use to flush the brake system.
> >
> > Bob Begani
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees
> Oudesluijs
> > via Healeys
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 3:46 AM
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid
> >
> > I rather replace the brake fluid every two years including flushing the
> full
> > system.
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >
> >
> >
> > Op 17-3-2021 om 03:52 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> >> a few years back at one of the Rendezvous i remember Dave Nock
> >> checking fluid cannisters and saying if you could not see the bottom of
> > the cannister time to replace the fluid.  been working for me since then.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> >> donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation
> > $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From cbaustin at verizon.net  Wed Mar 17 21:25:28 2021
From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 23:25:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid - Observation and Serious Question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <806f849b-f94c-8912-5c2e-af4d1f3863ae@verizon.net>

I changed over to Silicone Fluid many years ago whilst ignoring
the 'degraded performance' warnings (as in - it will fade/fail
in "spirited driving" situations) and my realised expectation of
dodging (increasingly expensive, then and now) repairs to painted
surfaces due to spilled fluid damage.

I cannot attribute any issue with my brakes since to the fluid change.

That said, I set up an experiment (years ago). I put enough Silicone
Fluid in a glass baby bottle to fill it to half-way. I put the bottle, 
without
a cap (open to the air) on a shelf in my unheated garage.

After six months (and two season changes) I asked a business
acquaintance to analyze my test sample, especially with regards
to H2O content. His assessment was H2O was less than 1%.

With a closed hydraulic system (our Healeys), once the system is
charged and the bleeders are closed, the only interaction with
the atmosphere is through the reservoir cap vent, I think.

How does all this water get in the system?

Best to all,

Charley

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 21:55:51 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 11:55:51 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid - Observation and Serious Question
In-Reply-To: <806f849b-f94c-8912-5c2e-af4d1f3863ae@verizon.net>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <806f849b-f94c-8912-5c2e-af4d1f3863ae@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+7F__qoUuzhmSZ_zd1sySO-ANj4uAefKDseVzoN2FdFQ@mail.gmail.com>

I haven't the foggiest but I can tell you in Humid Hong Kong, water can get
in there if you don't drive the car and it will screw everything up.  I
think the little hole in the cap is good enough, the moss replacement cap
seal is fiddly, but I think it does a good job of stopping water from
getting into the system.  If you drive the car all the time, the water
should work its way out of the fluid with each drive, so the trick it to
drive the car regularly if you can.


On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:29 AM Charley Braum via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I changed over to Silicone Fluid many years ago whilst ignoring
> the 'degraded performance' warnings (as in - it will fade/fail
> in "spirited driving" situations) and my realised expectation of
> dodging (increasingly expensive, then and now) repairs to painted
> surfaces due to spilled fluid damage.
>
> I cannot attribute any issue with my brakes since to the fluid change.
>
> That said, I set up an experiment (years ago). I put enough Silicone
> Fluid in a glass baby bottle to fill it to half-way. I put the bottle,
> without
> a cap (open to the air) on a shelf in my unheated garage.
>
> After six months (and two season changes) I asked a business
> acquaintance to analyze my test sample, especially with regards
> to H2O content. His assessment was H2O was less than 1%.
>
> With a closed hydraulic system (our Healeys), once the system is
> charged and the bleeders are closed, the only interaction with
> the atmosphere is through the reservoir cap vent, I think.
>
> How does all this water get in the system?
>
> Best to all,
>
> Charley
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> https://www.avg.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 21:58:41 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 11:58:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+PPqr5GhQfgzVsqdVn1-cy7NCgbEg6UMsLJSK9VxCRzw@mail.gmail.com>

dennis welch has them.  they do alot of gearbox upgrades, etc., so that's
why they have them.

https://www.bighealey.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=33802&search=dowel%20bolt



On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 7:26 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone know where I can get the dowel bolts required to mount the
> transmission to the block of my BN2?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 22:12:16 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 21:12:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <g8k55gtv1d61a5it58db7tcfhbjfo5o1m4@4ax.com>

Does anyone know if the current Eezibleed Kit includes a cap that will
fit the Girling reservoirs on BN1 & 2s?  I know there is a brute force
method of buying a spare cap ($22 from Moss) and drilling a 13mm hole
in it for Gunson's plumbing.
-Roland

On Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800, you wrote:

>The vacuum hand pumps don't work well with drum brakes, especially on the
>100.  Better to go with ezibleed.
>
>
>On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 3:49 AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
>healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I have used a Gunson Eezibleed Kit for donkeys years. The first kit was
>> bought around 1965, later was ones followed as these were constantly
>> improved upon. However you can improvise on this with a bicycle inner tyre.
>>
>> Basically you pressurize the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleed
>> nipples one by one until clear and bubble free liquid appears. You need
>> to get used to the system to avoid spillages and you have to top up the
>> brake fluid reservoir after flushing each line.
>>
>> Others use a vacuum hand pump to draw the fluid through the bleed nipples.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Mar 17 22:51:10 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 21:51:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+PPqr5GhQfgzVsqdVn1-cy7NCgbEg6UMsLJSK9VxCRzw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+PPqr5GhQfgzVsqdVn1-cy7NCgbEg6UMsLJSK9VxCRzw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQUbQBMztQfTeQwDojFtt9M8=qZcpAFLq2An6P3kvSnsA@mail.gmail.com>

Dowel Bolts for my BN1...

[image: image.png]
[image: image.png]
>From my post on the AH Experience...

The engine to transmission bolts and nuts were originally Whitworth,
British Standard Fine to be specific. 5/16" W or 3/8"BSF (same size,
different measurement) X 1-1/4" to 1-5/16" shouldered bolts. There are Five
(5) of these bolts.

There are two bolts that hold the starter in place, but they are 1-5/8" in
length.

Two special "Dowel" Bolts as pictured used to help center the transmission
to the engine, and six (6) bolts, spring washers and nuts. From the
Concours Guidelines...

Dowel Bolts
The factory used two dowel bolts to align the engine and transmission
components.

? A dowel bolt has a more accurate diameter on its unthreaded portion,
resulting in a
more precise fit.
? Unlike a regular bolt, which is a little loose in the hole, a dowel bolt
fits with very
little side play.
Without the dowel bolts, the engine and transmission could be slightly
misaligned,
which can cause premature wear of gearbox bearings and pilot bushes, and
cause the
clutch to "hang up".

100

? The dowel bolts have two flats on an otherwise round head.
? The dowel bolts go into the "1:00" and "7:00" (positions top right and
bottom left).
There are two circular countersink/recess in the bell housing flange at
these two
positions which help the shorter bolt go in farther so that enough treads
are
exposed on the other side.
? The standard 100 bell housing bolts are 1 1/4" long and BSF threaded.
The dowel bolts are 1/8-inch shorter and its bolt head is round with two
flats

To be absolutely factory original, all Whitworth fasteners should have a
black phosphate, and not a zinc finish as pictured.

Cheers,

Curt


On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 9:00 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> dennis welch has them.  they do alot of gearbox upgrades, etc., so that's
> why they have them.
>
>
> https://www.bighealey.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=33802&search=dowel%20bolt
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 7:26 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Anyone know where I can get the dowel bolts required to mount the
>> transmission to the block of my BN2?
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Mar 18 02:04:18 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:04:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid - Observation and Serious Question
In-Reply-To: <806f849b-f94c-8912-5c2e-af4d1f3863ae@verizon.net>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <806f849b-f94c-8912-5c2e-af4d1f3863ae@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <94d445a8-ef87-1c8a-3be0-85f24c9b6162@chello.nl>

The water gets in because of condensation (small bit by small bit) in 
the reservoir over the years. There will always be temperature changes 
and the relative humidity in the reservoir is the same as in the ambient 
air. In very hot and humid conditions there is a lot of water vapour in 
the air so when the temp drops condensation in the reservoir is very 
possible.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 18-3-2021 om 04:25 schreef Charley Braum via Healeys:
> I changed over to Silicone Fluid many years ago whilst ignoring
> the 'degraded performance' warnings (as in - it will fade/fail
> in "spirited driving" situations) and my realised expectation of
> dodging (increasingly expensive, then and now) repairs to painted
> surfaces due to spilled fluid damage.
>
> I cannot attribute any issue with my brakes since to the fluid change.
>
> That said, I set up an experiment (years ago). I put enough Silicone
> Fluid in a glass baby bottle to fill it to half-way. I put the bottle, 
> without
> a cap (open to the air) on a shelf in my unheated garage.
>
> After six months (and two season changes) I asked a business
> acquaintance to analyze my test sample, especially with regards
> to H2O content. His assessment was H2O was less than 1%.
>
> With a closed hydraulic system (our Healeys), once the system is
> charged and the bleeders are closed, the only interaction with
> the atmosphere is through the reservoir cap vent, I think.
>
> How does all this water get in the system?
>
> Best to all,
>
> Charley
>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 02:21:35 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 16:21:35 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <g8k55gtv1d61a5it58db7tcfhbjfo5o1m4@4ax.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <g8k55gtv1d61a5it58db7tcfhbjfo5o1m4@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL2s_BugPi4K1JnY-7+68=4Bs88Qpzxv2dgQdS6iLThRA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roland -

I get around this problem by fitting the ezibleed plastic cap, then
cinching it down with two medium sized speed clamps that clamp at the
ezibleed lid and at the bottom of the reservoir.  Doing this, however,
seems I need to double up the lid seal to get a good seal.    Also,
using something to keep the upper tips of the clamps holding above the
reservoir cap is helpful as they can slide off,  but not necessary.  This
keeps the lid from leaking or popping off.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 12:12 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know if the current Eezibleed Kit includes a cap that will
> fit the Girling reservoirs on BN1 & 2s?  I know there is a brute force
> method of buying a spare cap ($22 from Moss) and drilling a 13mm hole
> in it for Gunson's plumbing.
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800, you wrote:
>
> >The vacuum hand pumps don't work well with drum brakes, especially on the
> >100.  Better to go with ezibleed.
> >
> >
> >On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 3:49 AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
> >healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> I have used a Gunson Eezibleed Kit for donkeys years. The first kit was
> >> bought around 1965, later was ones followed as these were constantly
> >> improved upon. However you can improvise on this with a bicycle inner
> tyre.
> >>
> >> Basically you pressurize the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleed
> >> nipples one by one until clear and bubble free liquid appears. You need
> >> to get used to the system to avoid spillages and you have to top up the
> >> brake fluid reservoir after flushing each line.
> >>
> >> Others use a vacuum hand pump to draw the fluid through the bleed
> nipples.
> >>
> >> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Mar 18 03:37:32 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:37:32 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <g8k55gtv1d61a5it58db7tcfhbjfo5o1m4@4ax.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <g8k55gtv1d61a5it58db7tcfhbjfo5o1m4@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <001b01d71bda$53dc0e70$fb942b50$@alexarevel.plus.com>

My kit did no have a cap that fitted. (AH 3000). I cannot recall the exact
sequence, but I telephoned Gunson's and they sent me a selection which
included the correct one.
So, they are out there; they fit and they're available.
I suppose you could just order an extra cap(s) when you order the kit...
I like the Eezibleed. I overpressurized the first time that I used it and
probably put more air into the system than I took out. You only need enough
psi to push the fluid from one end of the car to the other.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of sentenac.rw---
via Healeys
Sent: 18 March 2021 04:12
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake fluid

Does anyone know if the current Eezibleed Kit includes a cap that will fit
the Girling reservoirs on BN1 & 2s?  I know there is a brute force method of
buying a spare cap ($22 from Moss) and drilling a 13mm hole in it for
Gunson's plumbing.
-Roland

On Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800, you wrote:

>The vacuum hand pumps don't work well with drum brakes, especially on 
>the 100.  Better to go with ezibleed.
>
>
>On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 3:49 AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys < 
>healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I have used a Gunson Eezibleed Kit for donkeys years. The first kit 
>> was bought around 1965, later was ones followed as these were 
>> constantly improved upon. However you can improvise on this with a
bicycle inner tyre.
>>
>> Basically you pressurize the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleed 
>> nipples one by one until clear and bubble free liquid appears. You 
>> need to get used to the system to avoid spillages and you have to top 
>> up the brake fluid reservoir after flushing each line.
>>
>> Others use a vacuum hand pump to draw the fluid through the bleed
nipples.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Mon Mar 15 04:18:38 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2021 10:18:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <5159caad-6d06-23f3-6597-9f63a17bcfd1@earthlink.net>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
 <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>
 <003101d7190c$16b19e00$4414da00$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <5159caad-6d06-23f3-6597-9f63a17bcfd1@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVHkqjCU56fQKqqyUyUGo42yMzhyR+iZnhmUkfSAux-ow@mail.gmail.com>

Bob

Not all big Healrys fit the DR2 Wiper motor. The BN1 fits CRT.

If the full load on the dynamo/generator is a little above its full
capability then there will be a small drain on the battery. There will be a
greater load on the battery when the engine is idling when the generator
current drops. So over time if the full load you mention happens all the
time then slowly the battery will lose its charge but only if the full load
you suggest is there all the time, which is unlikely unless one only drives
at night with wipers on and never in the daytime with the lights off.

The stall current you mention is what happens if for example the wiper
blades are frozen to the windscreen. If this were to happen the high
current of about 8 to 10 amps will soon overheat and damage the motor so
inside the motor is an overcurrent thermal devfice that disconnects the
power, so there is no need to be concerned about this.

Best regards




On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 at 20:23, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> All big Healeys use the DR2 wiper motor?
>
> See page 2 for the test data:
> DR2:
> http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-5_issue2.pdf
> DR3:
> http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-7_issue1.pdf
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 3/14/21 3:56 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
> > Yes, I got the error message too.
> > Simon
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
> sentenac.rw---
> > via Healeys
> > Sent: 14 March 2021 18:43
> > To: warthodson at aol.com
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
> >
> > Yes:  this message
> >
> >> OFFENDING COMMAND: get
> >> STACK:
> >> /quit
> >> -dictionary-
> >> -mark
> >
> >> Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
> > On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
> >
> >> Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>;
> >> healeys at autox.team.netERROR: undefine
> >> This page from an old Lucas service manual may help
> > --
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation
> > $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus
> .
> > com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 09:51:54 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 08:51:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQUbQBMztQfTeQwDojFtt9M8=qZcpAFLq2An6P3kvSnsA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+PPqr5GhQfgzVsqdVn1-cy7NCgbEg6UMsLJSK9VxCRzw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQUbQBMztQfTeQwDojFtt9M8=qZcpAFLq2An6P3kvSnsA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <609B947003D74E01A23417C3672DD6D7@DavidNockHP>

We have them available for the 6 cylinder cars. They would be the same shank size but the heads would be 9/16 rather than  3/8 BS. 


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Curtis Arndt via Healeys 
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 9:51 PM
To: Alan Seigrist 
Cc: Healeys 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts

Dowel Bolts for my BN1... 





>From my post on the AH Experience...

The engine to transmission bolts and nuts were originally Whitworth, British Standard Fine to be specific. 5/16" W or 3/8"BSF (same size, different measurement) X 1-1/4" to 1-5/16" shouldered bolts. There are Five (5) of these bolts.

There are two bolts that hold the starter in place, but they are 1-5/8" in length.

Two special "Dowel" Bolts as pictured used to help center the transmission to the engine, and six (6) bolts, spring washers and nuts. >From the Concours Guidelines...

Dowel Bolts
The factory used two dowel bolts to align the engine and transmission components.

? A dowel bolt has a more accurate diameter on its unthreaded portion, resulting in a
more precise fit.
? Unlike a regular bolt, which is a little loose in the hole, a dowel bolt fits with very
little side play.
Without the dowel bolts, the engine and transmission could be slightly misaligned,
which can cause premature wear of gearbox bearings and pilot bushes, and cause the
clutch to "hang up".

100

? The dowel bolts have two flats on an otherwise round head.
? The dowel bolts go into the "1:00" and "7:00" (positions top right and bottom left).
There are two circular countersink/recess in the bell housing flange at these two
positions which help the shorter bolt go in farther so that enough treads are
exposed on the other side.
? The standard 100 bell housing bolts are 1 1/4" long and BSF threaded.
The dowel bolts are 1/8-inch shorter and its bolt head is round with two flats

To be absolutely factory original, all Whitworth fasteners should have a black phosphate, and not a zinc finish as pictured.

Cheers,

Curt


On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 9:00 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  dennis welch has them.  they do alot of gearbox upgrades, etc., so that's why they have them.

  https://www.bighealey.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=33802&search=dowel%20bolt




  On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 7:26 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

    Anyone know where I can get the dowel bolts required to mount the transmission to the block of my BN2?
    Mike MacLean

    _______________________________________________
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 18 09:53:15 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 08:53:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <753072313.2271642.1616023529017.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <753072313.2271642.1616023529017@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <63C0973843114CE8B07FF8D6E4A95D35@DavidNockHP>

 


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael MacLean via Healeys 
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 4:25 PM
To: Healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Dowel Bolts

Anyone know where I can get the dowel bolts required to mount the transmission to the block of my BN2?
Mike MacLean



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 14:25:49 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 16:25:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLVHkqjCU56fQKqqyUyUGo42yMzhyR+iZnhmUkfSAux-ow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <002a01d718de$c406b820$4c142860$@sympatico.ca>
 <4e3dcebe-cc12-c936-93f5-8a02b3e612a9@earthlink.net>
 <004401d718f1$fd72c0a0$f85841e0$@sympatico.ca>
 <D366F6D4C7FD41C29D8EB38580D118F3@AllInOne>
 <1217144638.612681.1615744706885@mail.yahoo.com>
 <o5ms4gl1ipr83gq5pik4eqrpv07r7gih39@4ax.com>
 <003101d7190c$16b19e00$4414da00$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <5159caad-6d06-23f3-6597-9f63a17bcfd1@earthlink.net>
 <CAL28cLVHkqjCU56fQKqqyUyUGo42yMzhyR+iZnhmUkfSAux-ow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B59NNPR=_r3WuUt85q9=-OcroTsExMxXehxY8PTq8fatA@mail.gmail.com>

John said:  "Not all big Healeys fit the DR2 Wiper motor. The BN1 fits CRT."
-----------------------------
If I'm not mistaken the motor in my BN1 when I acquired it was non-self
parking and it was a trick to get the blades to fall as close as possible
to the bottom of the windscreen.
I replaced my motor with a later one--perhaps the one cited--that was not
only self-parking but also two-speed (along with a different switch),
though the difference between fast and slow seems negligible.

I wonder why no one has ever made a wiper arm with a bend or kink in it
that would bring the blade, when parked, parallel to the bottom edge of the
windscreen.  Guess that would make too much sense....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:22 AM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob
>
> Not all big Healrys fit the DR2 Wiper motor. The BN1 fits CRT.
>
> If the full load on the dynamo/generator is a little above its full
> capability then there will be a small drain on the battery. There will be a
> greater load on the battery when the engine is idling when the generator
> current drops. So over time if the full load you mention happens all the
> time then slowly the battery will lose its charge but only if the full load
> you suggest is there all the time, which is unlikely unless one only drives
> at night with wipers on and never in the daytime with the lights off.
>
> The stall current you mention is what happens if for example the wiper
> blades are frozen to the windscreen. If this were to happen the high
> current of about 8 to 10 amps will soon overheat and damage the motor so
> inside the motor is an overcurrent thermal devfice that disconnects the
> power, so there is no need to be concerned about this.
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 at 20:23, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> All big Healeys use the DR2 wiper motor?
>>
>> See page 2 for the test data:
>> DR2:
>> http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-5_issue2.pdf
>> DR3:
>> http://liblbc.info/images/Lucas/WorkshopInstructions50/secJ-7_issue1.pdf
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 3/14/21 3:56 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>> > Yes, I got the error message too.
>> > Simon
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
>> sentenac.rw---
>> > via Healeys
>> > Sent: 14 March 2021 18:43
>> > To: warthodson at aol.com
>> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
>> >
>> > Yes:  this message
>> >
>> >> OFFENDING COMMAND: get
>> >> STACK:
>> >> /quit
>> >> -dictionary-
>> >> -mark
>> >
>> >> Sent: Sun, Mar 14, 2021 12:03 pm
>> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] current draw of wipers
>> > On Sun, 14 Mar 2021 17:58:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>> >
>> >> Did everyone get an error message when opening this attachment?Gary
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> >> To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Bob Haskell' <rchaskell at earthlink.net>;
>> >> healeys at autox.team.netERROR: undefine
>> >> This page from an old Lucas service manual may help
>> > --
>> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
>> donation
>> > $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> >
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus
>> .
>> > com
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> >
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>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From kimobriske at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 15:19:55 2021
From: kimobriske at gmail.com (Kimo Briske)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 11:19:55 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
Message-ID: <CANqsgC7=K3jSsdbkzmyAdE5+qtXAYsqNPKdzC5e680NkP03b2g@mail.gmail.com>

A good reason for diligent brake system maintenance is that our cars do not
have a split system. Split braking systems became common in the mid 60's.
So if a part leaks/fails, no brakes. A good reason to have a properly
adjusted parking/emergency brake. Try a quick stop downshifting and using
the hand brake !  Aloha, Kimo
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 17:14:24 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 16:14:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CANqsgC7=K3jSsdbkzmyAdE5+qtXAYsqNPKdzC5e680NkP03b2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANqsgC7=K3jSsdbkzmyAdE5+qtXAYsqNPKdzC5e680NkP03b2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Zx6c4yNvN-gM6W_VDPQDyX82i_iEQCS9vfZHKAgvML8w@mail.gmail.com>

There's also scrubbing off speed by rubbing your car against the rocks and
shrubbery along the road.

Good brakes are a good thing.
-Roland

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 2:21 PM Kimo Briske via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A good reason for diligent brake system maintenance is that our cars do
> not have a split system. Split braking systems became common in the mid
> 60's. So if a part leaks/fails, no brakes. A good reason to have a properly
> adjusted parking/emergency brake. Try a quick stop downshifting and using
> the hand brake !  Aloha, Kimo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahmg at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 18:08:36 2021
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 20:08:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Update onparts for Sale and New Parts Found
References: <BE106F73-AEAD-4F5E-980B-1A5DF9CCC465.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BE106F73-AEAD-4F5E-980B-1A5DF9CCC465@aol.com>

?
> Healey hundred 3 original front fenders remaining (3 both Left and Right), some repaired, dry stored and in great shape. Two have damage in front with 90% useable no rust
>  
> Healey Hundred bonnet skin stripped prepared for Louvering/Stamping SOLD
>  
> Healey Hundred BN2 New Blue Side curtains used twice(Moss)SOLD
>  
> Healey rare Hundred Perspex Side Curtains
>  
> Healey Hundred Perspex screens Perspex only- used( Lft and Right)
>  
> Healey Hundred Original Side Curtain bag black- needs cleaning but useable(NA currently)
>  
> Healey Hundred Blue Convertible Top-Great used condition-SOLD
>  
> Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain need restoration
>  
> Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain Frames SOLD
>  
> Healey Hundred Original BN2 Sidecurtain- all pieces present -need recovering/restoring SOLD
>  
> Healey Hundred  Original Service Manual and repro-new sold as pair(rough- garage use). Sold
>  
> Healey 100M Carb and linkage- Non Etched but came off running car- since been rebuit(1)
>  
> Healey Hundred Original clear back Fuel Pump- rebuildable?
>  
> Healey Hundred Water Pump- rebuildable
>  
> 
>  
> Healey 3000 Radiator- Great for re-core
>  
> Healey 100 Hardtop rear backlight(glass)- Nical  reproduction hardtop- New
>  
> Healey Hundred Bonnet Hinge & Cross Brace Assy (New) SOLD
>  
> Healey Hundred Carb Heat Shield-Ah Spares- New SOLD
>  
> Healey 3000 rear fender repair panel (2)- (New)
>  
> Healey Hundred (2)Original Fan blades
>  
> Healey 3000 bumperettes(4)
>  
> Jaguar- Series 3 etype repair manual- torn corner
>  
> Healey BJ7-BJ8 shroud to windshield seal (new)
>  
> Triumph Tr6 transmission ? rebuilt years ago and removed from running car shortly after.
>  
> Triumph TR6 Seatbelt retractor(2) SOLD
>  
> Triumph Tr6 Bumper
>  
>  
> Healey Hundred LJ23 date stamp 54 correct BN1 Jack.  SOLD
>  
> Set Of  3Snail period spanners and 2 Superslim 
>  
> Jaguar 3.8 Series 1 e-type motor with all ancilliaries, rebuilt 10 yrs ago, needs detailing but maintained and turns. Comes with triple carb set up and manifold, starter, tranny, distributor, water pump, exhaust downs. Engine is high compression 9:1 based on stamping and was in a running xk150. RA-4646-9 engine number SOLD
>  
> Last remaining NOS Coolaire air conditioning  left in existence for 1964-1967 BJ8. Rarest option available for the BJ8 and only about 50 made. Was also the most expensive option. All components present.  SOLD
>  
> Moto Lita racing leather 14-15 inch steering wheel-Moss
> 
>> Healey Flex Fan(Moss New)
>> 
>> Original very early rare 9 hole Victor Derington wheel, factory option
>> for Healey Unrestored near mint.
>  
> New items found :
> 
> New BN1-BN2 Blue convertible tops (2) in the box from UK
> 
> New tire leather strap(2)
> 
> Triumph TR6 Rare optional hardtop boot cover(2)- Tan, New Tan
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 


Sent from my iPhone
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From ahmg at aol.com  Thu Mar 18 18:21:10 2021
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 20:21:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Update on Parts for Sale
References: <19D22D59-4021-4841-950B-6F48C03ABA60.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <19D22D59-4021-4841-950B-6F48C03ABA60@aol.com>

For some reason the text of my previous note to the list on parts for sale was deleted. 
I recently posted a list of parts from a garage cleaning and some have sold . The list is an update on parts remaining and other parts located. 
Please feel free to contact me off list if you have interest . 
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 19:04:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 18:04:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
Message-ID: <96867338-233c-e2f3-d3d4-65dea0e260da@comcast.net>

This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple 
things I haven't seen before:

1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan 
and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?

2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell 
(pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to ventilate 
the engine compartment?

https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 19:33:00 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 21:33:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
In-Reply-To: <96867338-233c-e2f3-d3d4-65dea0e260da@comcast.net>
References: <96867338-233c-e2f3-d3d4-65dea0e260da@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6N9+oGriuqL1GuD50d9g6mLpjaEhctjgBKt+tV6R5YiQ@mail.gmail.com>

1.  Though the angle may be distorting the view that sure doesn't look like
my BN1's oil pan and perhaps it is some kind of an "extra-capacity" version
or welded-on feature.
2. It must be a fan, though it is not blowing on anything in particular.  I
always thought people added inline marine fans on the left side to bring
some cool air up to the carbs.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:04 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple
> things I haven't seen before:
>
> 1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan
> and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?
>
> 2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell
> (pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to ventilate
> the engine compartment?
>
> https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar 18 20:51:34 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 19:51:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6N9+oGriuqL1GuD50d9g6mLpjaEhctjgBKt+tV6R5YiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <96867338-233c-e2f3-d3d4-65dea0e260da@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6N9+oGriuqL1GuD50d9g6mLpjaEhctjgBKt+tV6R5YiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e0d3c203-adf0-0f9c-08df-7bd60d7fdf80@comcast.net>

"... sure doesn't look like my BN1's oil pan ..."

No dents ... can't be a Healey pan ;)


On 3/18/2021 6:33 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> 1.? Though the angle may be distorting the view that sure doesn't look 
> like my BN1's oil pan?and perhaps it is some kind of an 
> "extra-capacity" version or welded-on feature.
> 2. It must be a fan, though it is not?blowing on anything 
> in?particular.? I always?thought people added inline marine fans on 
> the left side to bring some cool air up to the carbs.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:04 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple
>     things I haven't seen before:
>
>     1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan
>     and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?
>
>     2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell
>     (pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to
>     ventilate
>     the engine compartment?
>
>     https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg
>     <https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg>
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Mar 18 21:03:42 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2021 03:03:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
In-Reply-To: <e0d3c203-adf0-0f9c-08df-7bd60d7fdf80@comcast.net>
References: <96867338-233c-e2f3-d3d4-65dea0e260da@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6N9+oGriuqL1GuD50d9g6mLpjaEhctjgBKt+tV6R5YiQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <e0d3c203-adf0-0f9c-08df-7bd60d7fdf80@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11438912E6F184409B64E4B2A5689@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

1. The way it is situated it almost looks like a drip pan for the bell housing.

2. If it?s for engine bay cooling it?s on the wrong side. All the heat is generated on the left side of th engine.

Bill Lawrence
BN1#554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 2:51 AM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Questions

"... sure doesn't look like my BN1's oil pan ..."

No dents ... can't be a Healey pan ;)


On 3/18/2021 6:33 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
1.  Though the angle may be distorting the view that sure doesn't look like my BN1's oil pan and perhaps it is some kind of an "extra-capacity" version or welded-on feature.
2. It must be a fan, though it is not blowing on anything in particular.  I always thought people added inline marine fans on the left side to bring some cool air up to the carbs.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:04 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple
things I haven't seen before:

1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan
and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?

2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell
(pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to ventilate
the engine compartment?

https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Mar 18 22:11:33 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2021 21:11:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210317025238.8630.qmail@server278.com>
 <b3585b6f-66ba-35cf-7b9e-ec5af27f3bc7@chello.nl>
 <019d01d71b5a$40770ef0$c1652cd0$@gmail.com>
 <34be05e8-ec21-f7a3-aa64-08850f9403d2@chello.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJSqi4irMuq8acNw-N0cxGA757VExW1MpPFrxw7JCeY-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5q885glngagiprd56cvidkrc96tlrb36p4@4ax.com>

On Thu, 18 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800, you wrote:
thank you, Alan and Simon for your replies.  I think I will be trying
the clamps like the ones that Alan used, and test carefully for leaks
before adding brake fluid to the mix.

-Roland

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 18 23:29:31 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2021 05:29:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
Message-ID: <1d4910b9-b994-4161-bdf9-806cb7351957@me.com>

I saw this car some years ago in either Tahoe or Jackson. The gentleman who owned the car at the time, could still be the same guy, but anyway, I asked him about the fan set up and he claimed it worked great at extracting hot air from the engine compartment and kept his car running cool. I had just added a marine fan at the time on my car that blew cold air directly on the carbs.?
???If I remember correctly, the air from the engine was blown down to the ground and the hot air was "sucked" out of the engine compartment. Never saw a set up like that before and this is the first time I've seen it since.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On March 18, 2021 at 6:05 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple
things I haven't seen before:

1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan
and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?

2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell
(pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to ventilate
the engine compartment?

https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar 19 10:02:19 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2021 09:02:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Questions
In-Reply-To: <1d4910b9-b994-4161-bdf9-806cb7351957@me.com>
References: <1d4910b9-b994-4161-bdf9-806cb7351957@me.com>
Message-ID: <c8b016d8-9734-6580-6223-d256ff1d8cda@comcast.net>

That was my thought, too. Yes, pulling the hot air off the left side of 
the engine would be most effective--would work good on RHD cars--but 
evacuating the whole engine bay would help, too (since we've pretty much 
decided lack of airflow in the bay is at least part of the cause of 
overheating, esp. at idle). It wouldn't somewhat defeat its purpose, 
which pusher fans on the radiator are said to do.

Is anyone tempted to buy this car? $80K is a bit rich, methinks, though 
it is a really nice car, but I've got my hands full with two Healeys. At 
least Healeys aren't being impaired by the shortage of semiconductor chips.

Bob

On 3/18/2021 10:29 PM, Steven Kingsbury wrote:
> I saw this car some years ago in either Tahoe or Jackson. The 
> gentleman who owned the car at the time, could still be the same guy, 
> but anyway, I asked him about the fan set up and he claimed it worked 
> great at extracting hot air from the engine compartment and kept his 
> car running cool. I had just added a marine fan at the time on my car 
> that blew cold air directly on the carbs.
> ???If I remember correctly, the air from the engine was blown down to 
> the ground and the hot air was "sucked" out of the engine compartment. 
> Never saw a set up like that before and this is the first time I've 
> seen it since.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> On March 18, 2021 at 6:05 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> This looks to be a really nice BN1 FS in the Sacramento area. Couple
>> things I haven't seen before:
>>
>> 1) What is the rectangular block-shaped piece at the joint of oil pan
>> and the bellhousing? Something particular to BN1s?
>>
>> 2) Is that a fan mounted on the underside near the passenger footwell
>> (pretty sure this can't be stock)? Is this yet another way to ventilate
>> the engine compartment?
>>
>> https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg 
>> <https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_l8zMC86ySSVz_0CI0pO_600x450.jpg>

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From tappiokie at gmail.com  Sat Mar 20 19:01:30 2021
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2021 21:01:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CACkEpkSxxjxJTGSFGWKBEf7O5WE+--jkantPEz5Hcqgr=JhWuQ@mail.gmail.com>

Ever find the seatbelts we discussed?
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From ahmg at aol.com  Sat Mar 20 19:22:28 2021
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2021 21:22:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Toy Factory Model
References: <CD4EB05E-5F87-4131-AA89-E0E1ECBFC429.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CD4EB05E-5F87-4131-AA89-E0E1ECBFC429@aol.com>

?Around circa 2002, Charles Mattews renowned Healey toy Collector commissioned a 1/8 scale detailed Healey model based solely on the 100, by well known model builder, John Stinton. In conversations with Charles, only 200 were planned to be built , 50 BN1, 50 BN2,50 100M, and 50 100S to be only sold to owners of 100s as a requirement without duplication.
Less then 140 were built, then molds discarded  and Stinton retired meaning models would never be produced again.
If anyone on the list owns one of the HTF Models, please contact me with your model , color, options and a photo if possible. My goal is to determine how many of these are in the US and establish record as some have since changed hands in last few years.
I am fortunate to have a complete history of my model from its development , show history and its build strategy of options. 
Feel free to contact me
directly.
Ken


Sent from my iPhone

From ahmg at aol.com  Sat Mar 20 19:29:20 2021
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2021 21:29:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Toy Factory Model
References: <DD28065D-0A32-46AF-ACA7-86DB6DB068E4.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DD28065D-0A32-46AF-ACA7-86DB6DB068E4@aol.com>

?Around circa 2002, Charles Mattews renowned Healey toy Collector commissioned a 1/8 scale detailed Healey model based solely on the 100, by well known model builder, John Stinton. In conversations with Charles, only 200 were planned to be built , 50 BN1, 50 BN2,50 100M, and 50 100S to be only sold to owners of a 100S as a requirement without duplication.
Less then 140 were built, then molds discarded  and Stinton retired meaning models would never be produced again.
If anyone on the list owns one of the HTF Models, please contact me with your model , color, options and a photo if possible. My goal is to determine how many of these are in the US and establish record as some have since changed hands in last few years.
I am fortunate to have a complete history of my model from its development , show history and its build strategy of options. 
Feel free to contact me
directly.
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 21 10:22:31 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2021 09:22:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] The Littlest Healey
Message-ID: <44f5ac73-6a22-3498-8a1c-50997479c3b1@comcast.net>

 From the latest Hagerty's Drivers Club.
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 21 17:14:40 2021
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2021 19:14:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
Message-ID: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>

Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?

Joe
BN1 #923
BN2 100M
BJ8 Blue Baby
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 21 23:21:28 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2021 22:21:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <da642b0b-6381-8f4d-a88e-5e511e36fecb@comcast.net>

Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly 
oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when we 
tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose 
these. I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).

You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I /shoulda/ took more).

Bob

On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
> Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?
>
> Joe
> BN1 #923
> BN2 100M
> BJ8 Blue Baby
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 22 00:26:53 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2021 23:26:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <da642b0b-6381-8f4d-a88e-5e511e36fecb@comcast.net>
References: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>
 <da642b0b-6381-8f4d-a88e-5e511e36fecb@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7a7918c0-9aa6-74e9-10df-723cf217959f@comcast.net>

I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra thick 
flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's unique 
because it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and /might--/I 
don't recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.

On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly 
> oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when 
> we tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose 
> these. I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).
>
> You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I /shoulda/ took more).
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
>> Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?
>>
>> Joe
>> BN1 #923
>> BN2 100M
>> BJ8 Blue Baby
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 06:22:28 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 08:22:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH-BS Zoom Conference - Geoff Chrysler
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdJTfH32Fyf9Gf_UO67rHqeoamwiescDy4hYf6SRDXW4Q@mail.gmail.com>

Good Morning Listers,

The Austin-Healey Club of New England has been holding Zoom conferences
known as AH-BS calls (I think you can figure out what that means) for the
past several months as a way of keeping everyone connected during the
pandemic.  We also do a monthly Technical conference Q&A.  You can see some
of our past ones on our YouTube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHnijqOvqwEtJulKKqkIiwQ

Our next AH-BS call will be on Monday, March 29 at 7 pm EDT
We're very fortunate to have Geoff Chrysler, one of the Austin-Healey
world's premier interior trimmers, as our guest on our next AH-BS
conference,. To see some of the work he does, check out his video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaZsnXsDbr0
Geoff grew up around Healeys and many long-time members will remember his
Dad, Rich, as one of the first Austin-Healey Concours Committee members.
Please join us for a tour of Geoff's shop and be ready with your interior
questions.

Rick Neville is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.

Join Zoom Meeting
https://us02web.zoom.us/j/89217873734?pwd=SVlQT2lzbnk3dmFqM1pHaUU3MmdMdz09

Meeting ID: 892 1787 3734
Passcode: 501092
One tap mobile
+13126266799,,89217873734#,,,,*501092# US (Chicago)
+19292056099,,89217873734#,,,,*501092# US (New York)

Dial by your location
+1 312 626 6799 US (Chicago)
+1 929 205 6099 US (New York)
+1 301 715 8592 US (Washington DC)
+1 346 248 7799 US (Houston)
+1 669 900 6833 US (San Jose)
+1 253 215 8782 US (Tacoma)
Meeting ID: 892 1787 3734
Passcode: 501092
Find your local number: https://us02web.zoom.us/u/krDH6QyjM

Rick Neville
President, Austin-Healey Club of New England
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 08:59:23 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 07:59:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <7a7918c0-9aa6-74e9-10df-723cf217959f@comcast.net>
References: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>
 <da642b0b-6381-8f4d-a88e-5e511e36fecb@comcast.net>
 <7a7918c0-9aa6-74e9-10df-723cf217959f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSazKxDgqTgh+SLJomJjnEsPnYV_KeveT6Rt-WBtmmMyg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob and Joe,

Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were never used on AH 100s,
BN1/2s.

The four marks on the head of these 10-32 screws were there to denote UNF
from "Whitworth" during the changeover to the Unified screw thread forms in
the 1950s.

I've attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which illustrates
this fact.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra thick
> flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's unique because
> it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and *might--*I don't
> recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.
>
> On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly
> oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when we
> tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose these.
> I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).
>
> You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I *shoulda* took more).
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
>
> Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?
>
> Joe
> BN1 #923
> BN2 100M
> BJ8 Blue Baby
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 22 09:59:09 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 08:59:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeSazKxDgqTgh+SLJomJjnEsPnYV_KeveT6Rt-WBtmmMyg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhQB+BtEfs-sQSxH6K7+OkM8_hhgKrfiRccFokqTMkZYrw@mail.gmail.com>
 <da642b0b-6381-8f4d-a88e-5e511e36fecb@comcast.net>
 <7a7918c0-9aa6-74e9-10df-723cf217959f@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeSazKxDgqTgh+SLJomJjnEsPnYV_KeveT6Rt-WBtmmMyg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c342b14d-7bbb-21f3-de30-2083c3385c29@comcast.net>

Thanks for the correction, Curt. I'd always wondered why 'posidrive' 
screws were used--I think posidrive is a relatively recent 
development--and why regular phillips drivers worked in them (I think 
posidrive has a steeper angle of the screw blades). I have a posidrive 
screwdriver, but I usually grabbed whatever was handy. Do you know of a 
source for the correctly marked screws?

Do you know if the backing flat washer was tapped (I don't think so, but 
I'm not sure). IIRC there is a tapped plate that binds the 
screws--again, chromed--that attach the rearview mirror.

Bob


On 3/22/2021 7:59 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Hi Bob and Joe,
>
> Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were never used on AH 
> 100s, BN1/2s.
>
> The four marks on the head of these 10-32 screws were there to denote 
> UNF from?"Whitworth" during the changeover to the Unified screw thread 
> forms in the 1950s.
>
> I've attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which 
> illustrates this fact.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra
>     thick flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's
>     unique because it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers
>     and /might--/I don't recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.
>
>     On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>     Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly
>>     oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this
>>     when we tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself
>>     I'd not lose these. I lost them (and have never found proper
>>     replacements).
>>
>>     You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I /shoulda/ took more).
>>
>>     Bob
>>
>>     On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
>>>     Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?
>>>
>>>     Joe
>>>     BN1 #923
>>>     BN2 100M
>>>     BJ8 Blue Baby
>>>
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  http://autox.team.net/archive  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net>
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 22 10:47:35 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 16:47:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
Message-ID: <b1d4d9a8c18473a254a1b40efa9c1a5def39d921@webmail>

Guys-pozidriv screws were used on the later 3000, etc. as a production
item. This type of screw was used with a special tool to "quickly"
install screws on the line. It was another way BMC was trying to make
a buck on underpriced and over-difficult assembly of vehicles. Then
they went broke...Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: "Curtis Arndt"
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Monday March 22 2021 9:01:24AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash

 Thanks for the correction, Curt. I'd always wondered why 'posidrive'
screws were used--I think posidrive is a relatively recent
development--and why regular phillips drivers worked in them (I think
posidrive has a steeper angle of the screw blades). I have a posidrive
screwdriver, but I usually grabbed whatever was handy. Do you know of
a source for the correctly marked screws?

 Do you know if the backing flat washer was tapped (I don't think so,
but I'm not sure). IIRC there is a tapped plate that binds the
screws--again, chromed--that attach the rearview mirror.

 Bob

On 3/22/2021 7:59 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
  Hi Bob and Joe, 
 Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were never used on AH
100s, BN1/2s.  
 The four marks on the head of these 10-32 screws were there to denote
UNF from "Whitworth" during the changeover to the Unified screw thread
forms in the 1950s. 
 I've attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which
illustrates this fact. 
 Cheers, 
 Curt  
 On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra
thick flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's
unique because it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and
_might--_I don't recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.

On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
 Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly
oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when
we tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose
these. I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).

 You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I _shoulda_ took more).

 Bob

On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
  Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash? 
 Joe  BN1 #923 BN2 100M BJ8 Blue Baby  

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 22 11:21:00 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 10:21:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <b1d4d9a8c18473a254a1b40efa9c1a5def39d921@webmail>
References: <b1d4d9a8c18473a254a1b40efa9c1a5def39d921@webmail>
Message-ID: <404EC9E1ADB94B48BE1DB0949C40AAA3@DavidNockHP>

Here is the real story of the Pozi and Phillips Screws as they say it came right from the horses mouth. In 1996 my father interviewed the Phillips family the designer of the Phillips and Pozi Screws. They personally approved this article that my father wrote on the Phillips Screw the Austin Healey Magazine. This and many other articles are in our Healey Tech Talk Book.

The bottom line is the Phillips Screw is designed to slip out at a pre dertimined torque, and the Pozi Screw is designed to not slip out. 

And the Pozi Screw was developed in about 1956 for the automotive industry so there is no way that they could have been installed on a BN1. 


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com




From: Henry G Leach via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 9:47 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' 
Cc: 'Healey List' 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash

Guys-pozidriv screws were used on the later 3000, etc. as a production item. This type of screw was used with a special tool to "quickly" install screws on the line. It was another way BMC was trying to make a buck on underpriced and over-difficult assembly of vehicles. Then they went broke...Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: "Curtis Arndt"
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Monday March 22 2021 9:01:24AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash

Thanks for the correction, Curt. I'd always wondered why 'posidrive' screws were used--I think posidrive is a relatively recent development--and why regular phillips drivers worked in them (I think posidrive has a steeper angle of the screw blades). I have a posidrive screwdriver, but I usually grabbed whatever was handy. Do you know of a source for the correctly marked screws?

Do you know if the backing flat washer was tapped (I don't think so, but I'm not sure). IIRC there is a tapped plate that binds the screws--again, chromed--that attach the rearview mirror.

Bob



On 3/22/2021 7:59 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

  Hi Bob and Joe, 

  Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were never used on AH 100s, BN1/2s.  

  The four marks on the head of these 10-32 screws were there to denote UNF from "Whitworth" during the changeover to the Unified screw thread forms in the 1950s.

  I've attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which illustrates this fact.

  Cheers,

  Curt

  On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

    I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra thick flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's unique because it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and might--I don't recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.


    On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

      Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when we tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose these. I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).

      You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I shoulda took more).

      Bob


      On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:

        Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash? 

        Joe 
        BN1 #923
        BN2 100M
        BJ8 Blue Baby




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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Mar 22 18:06:58 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 17:06:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?overdrive_problem?=
Message-ID: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>

friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any 
ideas what the cause is and the fix?

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 22 20:50:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 19:50:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <7fed7a95-b858-9acc-84d8-a274cfb15ab6@comcast.net>

The shop manual has a comprehensive diagnostic flow chart; and maybe a 
troubleshooting guide as well.

To make SWAGs, we need a little more info:

- does it stay in OD indefinitely, until he accelerates, or pop out 
immediately?
- does it initially engage in 2-3 seconds, or take longer?

If the pump is weak, OD would be slow to engage and, once the 
accumulator has engaged there might not be enough to hold OD. But, my 
guess would be something electrical; possibly the relay.

Bob

On 3/22/2021 5:06 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
>


From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 22 20:59:37 2021
From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 02:59:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle
Message-ID: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Hi all

I have been noticing that the idle speed changes every time I stop.  I just replaced the jets on my BJ7, but the problem existed with the original jets also.  The engine doesn't stall but the idle speed can drop way down. any suggestions?  Runs really nice otherwise.  Just a little difficult to start.

Len B
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 22 22:02:17 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 04:02:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
Message-ID: <d565c3f98986d362d1b2b26daec48c8dd008454d@webmail>

That was what I really appreciated about Norman. He was so exacting,
knowledgeable, and took the time to research and answer any question
related to British car maintainence.
He is revered as a legend for solving issues with British cars. Sure
miss him. Excellent article. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "David Nock BCS" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Monday March 22 2021 10:21:16AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash

   Here is the real story of the Pozi and Phillips Screws as they say
it came right from the horses mouth. In 1996 my father interviewed the
Phillips family the designer of the Phillips and Pozi Screws. They
personally approved this article that my father wrote on the Phillips
Screw the Austin Healey Magazine. This and many other articles are in
our Healey Tech Talk Book.   The bottom line is the Phillips Screw is
designed to slip out at a pre dertimined torque, and the Pozi Screw is
designed to not slip out.   And the Pozi Screw was developed in about
1956 for the automotive industry so there is no way that they could
have been installed on a BN1.      David Nock
 British Car Specialists
 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com [1]   
      FROM: Henry G Leach via Healeys SENT: Monday, March 22, 2021
9:47 AM TO: 'Bob Spidell' CC: 'Healey List' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] BN2
screw in the center of the dash       Guys-pozidriv screws were used
on the later 3000, etc. as a production item. This type of screw was
used with a special tool to "quickly" install screws on the line. It
was another way BMC was trying to make a buck on underpriced and
over-difficult assembly of vehicles. Then they went broke...Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell"
 To: "Curtis Arndt"
 Cc: "Healey List"
 Sent: Monday March 22 2021 9:01:24AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash

 Thanks for the correction, Curt. I'd always wondered why 'posidrive'
screws were used--I think posidrive is a relatively recent
development--and why regular phillips drivers worked in them (I think
posidrive has a steeper angle of the screw blades). I have a posidrive
screwdriver, but I usually grabbed whatever was handy. Do you know of
a source for the correctly marked screws?

 Do you know if the backing flat washer was tapped (I don't think so,
but I'm not sure). IIRC there is a tapped plate that binds the
screws--again, chromed--that attach the rearview mirror.

 Bob

On 3/22/2021 7:59 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
  Hi Bob and Joe,   Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were
never used on AH 100s, BN1/2s.    The four marks on the head of these
10-32 screws were there to denote UNF from "Whitworth" during the
changeover to the Unified screw thread forms in the 1950s.   I've
attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which illustrates
this fact.   Cheers,   Curt     On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob
Spidell  wrote:
  I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra
thick flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's
unique because it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and
_might--_I don't recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.

On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
 Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly
oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when
we tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose
these. I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).

 You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I _shoulda_ took more).

 Bob

On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
  Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?   Joe BN1 #923 BN2
100M BJ8 Blue Baby  

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 22 22:20:02 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 04:20:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle
Message-ID: <e86710f64ef812cfa3dacf297484c0a0c19ab1f9@webmail>

When you stop-is the clutch in or out? What is the normal idle speed
you have set? 600, 800, 900 RPMs? Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Leonard Berkowitz via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 22 2021 8:00:25PM
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle

  Hi all  
  I have been noticing that the idle speed changes every time I stop.
I just replaced the jets on my BJ7, but the problem existed with the
original jets also. The engine doesn't stall but the idle speed can
drop way down. any suggestions? Runs really nice otherwise. Just a
little difficult to start.  
  Len B
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Mar 22 22:40:31 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 21:40:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <7fed7a95-b858-9acc-84d8-a274cfb15ab6@comcast.net>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <7fed7a95-b858-9acc-84d8-a274cfb15ab6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001d01d71f9e$a87a9a60$f96fcf20$@roadrunner.com>

I agree with Bob, but I'll share an experience I had in the off chance it
helps.  I had a problem with my OD dropping out and/or cycling in and out.
After much trial and error and tracing with the volt meter, I figured out
that the problem was that the fiber washer that came with the replacement
gear level position switch was slightly too thick, resulting in intermittent
closure of the switch.  Removed the washer and used Teflon tape instead,
problem solved.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 7:50 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

The shop manual has a comprehensive diagnostic flow chart; and maybe a
troubleshooting guide as well.

To make SWAGs, we need a little more info:

- does it stay in OD indefinitely, until he accelerates, or pop out
immediately?
- does it initially engage in 2-3 seconds, or take longer?

If the pump is weak, OD would be slow to engage and, once the accumulator
has engaged there might not be enough to hold OD. But, my guess would be
something electrical; possibly the relay.

Bob

On 3/22/2021 5:06 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will
go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
>

_______________________________________________
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 22 22:55:52 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 04:55:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
Message-ID: <c35531aea5e563a5002b17f59fc428b163580135@webmail>

The other possible simple adjustment is the throttle switch set to
1/5th throttle-use the 12V test lamp and it sets perfect. (procedure
in workshop book) If you fooled with carbs or linkage, this setting
can be disrupted.
Another possible issue is dirt in the valve body...remove the tunnel,
unscrew valve nut and "carefully" remove shaft, spring and ball and
clean orffice. Be sure that the tiny hole in the bottom of the valve
shaft is open. Don't use a rag, q-tip or shop towel-no lint! Use a
small wire or welding tip cleaner. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bruce Steele" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 22 2021 9:41:20PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

 I agree with Bob, but I'll share an experience I had in the off
chance it
 helps. I had a problem with my OD dropping out and/or cycling in and
out.
 After much trial and error and tracing with the volt meter, I figured
out
 that the problem was that the fiber washer that came with the
replacement
 gear level position switch was slightly too thick, resulting in
intermittent
 closure of the switch. Removed the washer and used Teflon tape
instead,
 problem solved.

 Bruce Steele
 Brea, CA
 1960 BN7

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob
 Spidell
 Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 7:50 PM
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

 The shop manual has a comprehensive diagnostic flow chart; and maybe
a
 troubleshooting guide as well.

 To make SWAGs, we need a little more info:

 - does it stay in OD indefinitely, until he accelerates, or pop out
 immediately?
 - does it initially engage in 2-3 seconds, or take longer?

 If the pump is weak, OD would be slow to engage and, once the
accumulator
 has engaged there might not be enough to hold OD. But, my guess would
be
 something electrical; possibly the relay.

 Bob

 On 3/22/2021 5:06 PM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
 > friends BT7 had o/d quit. solenoid was bad so replaced it. now it
will
 go into o/d but pop out when accelerating. any
 > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
 > _______________________________________________
 >

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Mar 22 23:41:10 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 13:41:10 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLXnd-C9vFgcLHkfRSrsTpf-tvsyJo-CS9ME61aJPqVsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Len -

Sounds to me like you need to check your throttle linkage / throttle shafts
(are they loose?) / butterfly valves (are they loose and/or are they seated
properly?).

you can check throttle shafts by dripping some oil in on each side of the
shaft on the carb and if the car starts running more reliably, then it
means you need to have the throttle bodies reamed and re-bushed.

you can check the butterfly valves by removing the carbs from the car.

hope that helps,

Alan

On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 11:00 AM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi all
>
> I have been noticing that the idle speed changes every time I stop.  I
> just replaced the jets on my BJ7, but the problem existed with the original
> jets also.  The engine doesn't stall but the idle speed can drop way down.
> any suggestions?  Runs really nice otherwise.  Just a little difficult to
> start.
>
> Len B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Mar 23 01:37:44 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 08:37:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>

That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Mar 23 01:42:06 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 08:42:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3a6045b3-b71b-0336-8224-9122a7085d38@chello.nl>

Check valve clearance, compression and timing first, before fiddling 
with the carbs. When that done, balance the carbs and set the idle 
mixture using the traditional method or using Colortunes.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-3-2021 om 03:59 schreef Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys:
> Hi all
>
> I have been noticing that the idle speed changes every time I stop.? I 
> just replaced the jets on my BJ7, but the problem existed with the 
> original jets also.? The engine doesn't stall but the idle speed can 
> drop way down. any suggestions?? Runs really nice otherwise.? Just a 
> little difficult to start.
>
> Len B
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Mar 23 07:27:47 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 13:27:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] uneven idle
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLXnd-C9vFgcLHkfRSrsTpf-tvsyJo-CS9ME61aJPqVsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MN2PR13MB35036625154D1F41CFDF87E0B8649@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLXnd-C9vFgcLHkfRSrsTpf-tvsyJo-CS9ME61aJPqVsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <890302987.1413793.1616506067757@mail.yahoo.com>

Another possible cause: Is the choke mechanism failing to completely release due to friction or incorrect adjustment? Also, is the throttle linkage correctly adjusted? It should have a bit of free play in the linkage at idle so that it is not holding the throttle slightly open. I.E. the throttle linkage should not be what is controlling idle speed.?Gary??


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Leonard Berkowitz <DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2021 12:41 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] uneven idle

Hi Len -
Sounds to me like you need to check your throttle linkage / throttle shafts (are they loose?) / butterfly valves (are they loose and/or are they seated properly?).

you can check throttle shafts by dripping some oil in on each side of the shaft on the carb and if the car starts running more reliably, then it means you need to have the throttle bodies reamed and re-bushed.
you can check the butterfly valves by removing the carbs from the car.
hope that helps,
Alan


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From watterbury at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 23 14:32:19 2021
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 16:32:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
References: <7730E041-6E97-49F0-A252-F60CB61537C8.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7730E041-6E97-49F0-A252-F60CB61537C8@yahoo.com>

Mine used to cut out on right turns, especially in third gear which i rarely use for o/d.
Turned out to be the switch adjustment on the 3/4 shift rail. 
Bill
BT7 MkII
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 17:06:58 -0700
From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
Message-ID: <20210323000658.11374.qmail at server278.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any 
ideas what the cause is and the fix?

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Tue Mar 23 14:43:32 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 16:43:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <7730E041-6E97-49F0-A252-F60CB61537C8@yahoo.com>
References: <7730E041-6E97-49F0-A252-F60CB61537C8.ref@yahoo.com>
 <7730E041-6E97-49F0-A252-F60CB61537C8@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <665611651.88547029.1616532212582.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

my dash switch went bad and caused a cut out once--
----- Original Message -----
From: William Atterbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 16:32:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

Mine used to cut out on right turns, especially in third gear which i rarely use for o/d.Turned out to be the switch adjustment on the 3/4 shift rail. BillBT7 MkII----------------------------------------------------------------------Message: 1Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2021 17:06:58 -0700From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problemMessage-ID: <20210323000658.11374.qmail at server278.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any ideas what the cause is and the fix?----------------------------------------------------------------------
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Mar 23 19:24:53 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 18:24:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?overdrive?=
Message-ID: <20210324012453.40967.qmail@server278.com>

problem was the safety switch.  i had tightened and adjusted the throttle linkage and apparently it had messed up the 
adjustment.  wired around it and all worked well.  will readjust whole system later.  thanks to all who replied.  sure was glad 
i did not have to take it out.

From healey53 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 23 20:40:22 2021
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 22:40:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
In-Reply-To: <d565c3f98986d362d1b2b26daec48c8dd008454d@webmail>
References: <d565c3f98986d362d1b2b26daec48c8dd008454d@webmail>
Message-ID: <CADigPhTyhT1UbVgDMq890sA+k+CPa8sxPjQCvGTPQ6Xw7-ynHg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all for the help and additional input

Joe

On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 12:03 AM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> That was what I really appreciated about Norman.  He was so exacting,
> knowledgeable, and took the time to research and answer any question
> related to British car maintainence.
>
> He is revered as a legend for solving issues with British cars. Sure miss
> him.  Excellent article. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "David Nock BCS"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healey List"
> Sent: Monday March 22 2021 10:21:16AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
>
> Here is the real story of the Pozi and Phillips Screws as they say it came
> right from the horses mouth. In 1996 my father interviewed the Phillips
> family the designer of the Phillips and Pozi Screws. They personally
> approved this article that my father wrote on the Phillips Screw the Austin
> Healey Magazine. This and many other articles are in our Healey Tech Talk
> Book.
>
> The bottom line is the Phillips Screw is designed to slip out at a pre
> dertimined torque, and the Pozi Screw is designed to not slip out.
>
> And the Pozi Screw was developed in about 1956 for the automotive industry
> so there is no way that they could have been installed on a BN1.
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>
>
> *From:* Henry G Leach via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 9:47 AM
> *To:* 'Bob Spidell'
> *Cc:* 'Healey List'
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
>
> Guys-pozidriv screws were used on the later 3000, etc. as a production
> item. This type of screw was used with a special tool to "quickly" install
> screws on the line. It was another way BMC was trying to make a buck on
> underpriced and over-difficult assembly of vehicles. Then they went
> broke...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: "Curtis Arndt"
> Cc: "Healey List"
> Sent: Monday March 22 2021 9:01:24AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 screw in the center of the dash
>
> Thanks for the correction, Curt. I'd always wondered why 'posidrive'
> screws were used--I think posidrive is a relatively recent development--and
> why regular phillips drivers worked in them (I think posidrive has a
> steeper angle of the screw blades). I have a posidrive screwdriver, but I
> usually grabbed whatever was handy. Do you know of a source for the
> correctly marked screws?
>
> Do you know if the backing flat washer was tapped (I don't think so, but
> I'm not sure). IIRC there is a tapped plate that binds the screws--again,
> chromed--that attach the rearview mirror.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 3/22/2021 7:59 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>
> Hi Bob and Joe,
>
> Just a quick correction, "Pozidriv " screws were never used on AH 100s,
> BN1/2s.
>
> The four marks on the head of these 10-32 screws were there to denote UNF
> from "Whitworth" during the changeover to the Unified screw thread forms in
> the 1950s.
>
> I've attached a page from my vintage Machinery's Handbook which
> illustrates this fact.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 11:27 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I neglected to mention the screw is backed-up with a large, extra thick
>> flat washer (because of the large hole in the bracket). It's unique because
>> it's as thick as a couple of typical flat washers and *might--*I don't
>> recall for sure--be tapped for the screw.
>>
>> On 3/21/2021 10:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>
>> Yep. And, the original screw is chromed posidriv, with a slightly
>> oversized--the screw is a #10 IIRC--chrome washer. I noted this when we
>> tore down our BN2 for restoration, and promised myself I'd not lose these.
>> I lost them (and have never found proper replacements).
>>
>> You can sorta see them in this grainy photo (I *shoulda* took more).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 3/21/2021 4:14 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
>>
>> Does it just attach to the brace behind the dash?
>>
>> Joe
>> BN1 #923
>> BN2 100M
>> BJ8 Blue Baby
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net "_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"> "
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html" <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> target=
>> "_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: "_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"> "
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>> "_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys "
>> http://autox.team.net/archive" <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> target="_blank" moz-do-not-send=
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>> moz-do-not-send="true">Healeys at autox.team.net
>> "_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"> "
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>> target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"> "
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 23 23:43:26 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 22:43:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lego 100-6
Message-ID: <CABXhz894zo5eSNyx5Hbh1puECP1_DzVpufahxPMhhPBVc6L-pg@mail.gmail.com>

https://flic.kr/p/PbQubK

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 24 18:13:50 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 00:13:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881DC3F6471EB937E407588D4639@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I have a Dunlop Road speed RS4 (for display purposes only) hanging in my garage. I was curious what originally came on the 100? Some sources state Dunlop road speed. From some light digging I did online it seems a RS2 or RS3 were never made available. Also found that the RS4 could have been used as early as 56' and the RS5 around 59'. The period ads list the RS4 for the 3000 and a few other cars.

So my question is, was there a RS1? Or even just a Road Speed without any further letter/number identification? I almost feel comfortable pointing at the tire and saying "that is the original tire that would have come on my 57' 100-6", but what about the 100. Hmmmmm.  Could be wrong though.

Thanks  all, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Mar 24 18:59:02 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 00:59:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881DC3F6471EB937E407588D4639@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DC3F6471EB937E407588D4639@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1009205763.66094.1616633942177@mail.yahoo.com>

ShawnIn an older Concours guidelines (2018) the provided info inferred that there was no deduction for:?Dunlop 5.90x15 bias-ply tires. That does not necessarily answer your question but is a basis for the way things are viewed in light of availability of current products.?Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 24, 2021 8:13 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires

 I have a Dunlop Road speed RS4 (for display purposes only) hanging in my garage. I was curious what originally came on the 100? Some sources state Dunlop road speed. From some light digging I did online it seems a RS2 or RS3 were never made available. Also found that the RS4 could have been used as early as 56' and the RS5 around 59'. The period ads list the RS4 for the 3000 and a few other cars.?
So my question is, was there a RS1? Or even just a Road Speed without any further letter/number identification? I almost feel comfortable pointing at the tire and saying "that is the original tire that would have come on my 57' 100-6", but what about the 100. Hmmmmm.? Could be wrong though.
Thanks? all, Shawn
The Millers
?
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 24 19:02:07 2021
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2021 21:02:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:
In-Reply-To: <71.B7.17122.4C0DB506@smtp01.wow.cmh.synacor.com>
References: <71.B7.17122.4C0DB506@smtp01.wow.cmh.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <003401d72112$7ac7a070$7056e150$@verizon.net>

Can someone answer this person direct

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: w b <wanditah2o at knology.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2021 7:53 PM
To: ahbn6 at verizon.net
Subject: 

 

 

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

I was wondering if you could give me some tips.

I am trying to use a universal wiring harness but keeping the control box.

I have converted to negative ground.

I am having trouble understanding what wires still need to go to the control box and which can go to the fuse panel on the new harness.

Thanks,

Wandita

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 24 19:18:46 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 01:18:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881DC3F6471EB937E407588D4639@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DC3F6471EB937E407588D4639@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507D3CAAB638E5D6B676E85D1629@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Shawn,
I have checked the book put out by Road & Track, about road tests of various models of Austin-Healey and other than references to the tire size 5.90 X15, there is very little about the brand although in the road test of the 100M, they make mention of the Dunlop Road Speed.
Not knowing what countries required from these manufacturers, it is hard to say what tires came with the cars in North America. I know that here in Canada, not sure what year either, the Canadian requirements were that the headlights fitted to car coming from abroad had to be Canadian made, so either cars came with headlights that were sent from Canada to the manufacturers or they came here without headlights and were installed by the dealers. Nowadays it is common that a car sold in a specific country must have a certain percentage of the car that part have to come from the country where they will be sold. As an example, today?s Mini Cooper, when it launched in 2002, BMW listed 119 suppliers of parts, coming from Brazil, USA, Germany, UK, France, Italy, Austria, Belgium and Hungary.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: S and T Miller via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: March 24, 2021 7:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires

I have a Dunlop Road speed RS4 (for display purposes only) hanging in my garage. I was curious what originally came on the 100? Some sources state Dunlop road speed. From some light digging I did online it seems a RS2 or RS3 were never made available. Also found that the RS4 could have been used as early as 56' and the RS5 around 59'. The period ads list the RS4 for the 3000 and a few other cars.

So my question is, was there a RS1? Or even just a Road Speed without any further letter/number identification? I almost feel comfortable pointing at the tire and saying "that is the original tire that would have come on my 57' 100-6", but what about the 100. Hmmmmm.  Could be wrong though.

Thanks  all, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Mar 24 21:42:41 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 03:42:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
Message-ID: <bf81f2c81e57f6fcd53828634367b15bfe0d9d39@webmail>

I have original Dunlop Road Speed 590 x 15 (H) bias ply tires on my
early 100. Purchased from Dunlop dealer at Vintage Tires, Nova Scotia,
Canada Five tires $1600, made from the original molds in England. They
are tubeless (but use tubes inside), nylon and look period correct but
ride like hell. I show the car with these. I keep the car on tire
protectors and have a spare set of wheels and Michelin X 165-15
radials for whenever I am able to safely drive the 100 again. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Jean Caron via
Healeys" 
To: "S and T Miller", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday March 24 2021 6:22:31PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 original tires

	Shawn, 

	I have checked the book put out by Road & Track, about road tests of
various models of Austin-Healey and other than references to the tire
size 5.90 X15, there is very little about the brand although in the
road test of the 100M, they make mention of the Dunlop Road Speed. 

	Not knowing what countries required from these manufacturers, it is
hard to say what tires came with the cars in North America. I know
that here in Canada, not sure what year either, the Canadian
requirements were that the headlights fitted to car coming from abroad
had to be Canadian made, so either cars came with headlights that were
sent from Canada to the manufacturers or they came here without
headlights and were installed by the dealers. Nowadays it is common
that a car sold in a specific country must have a certain percentage
of the car that part have to come from the country where they will be
sold. As an example, today?s Mini Cooper, when it launched in 2002,
BMW listed 119 suppliers of parts, coming from Brazil, USA, Germany,
UK, France, Italy, Austria, Belgium and Hungary. 

	Jean 

	Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 

	FROM: S and T Miller via Healeys
SENT: March 24, 2021 7:15 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net
SUBJECT: [Healeys] 100 original tires  

	I have a Dunlop Road speed RS4 (for display purposes only) hanging in
my garage. I was curious what originally came on the 100? Some sources
state Dunlop road speed. From some light digging I did online it seems
a RS2 or RS3 were never made available. Also found that the RS4 could
have been used as early as 56' and the RS5 around 59'. The period ads
list the RS4 for the 3000 and a few other cars.    

	So my question is, was there a RS1? Or even just a Road Speed without
any further letter/number identification? I almost feel comfortable
pointing at the tire and saying "that is the original tire that would
have come on my 57' 100-6", but what about the 100. Hmmmmm. Could be
wrong though.   

	Thanks all, Shawn   

	The Millers

 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive." 

	   

Links:
------
[1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986

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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Mar 25 10:42:04 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 09:42:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FW:
In-Reply-To: <003401d72112$7ac7a070$7056e150$@verizon.net>
References: <71.B7.17122.4C0DB506@smtp01.wow.cmh.synacor.com>,
 <003401d72112$7ac7a070$7056e150$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5F4734C4-824A-4401-8B0E-EA7444494D19@hxcore.ol>

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From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 25 11:59:11 2021
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 17:59:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
In-Reply-To: <bf81f2c81e57f6fcd53828634367b15bfe0d9d39@webmail>
References: <bf81f2c81e57f6fcd53828634367b15bfe0d9d39@webmail>
Message-ID: <1537953665.387453.1616695151640@mail.yahoo.com>

The attached 1954 Dunlop ad may be of interest.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives 

    On Wednesday, March 24, 2021, 11:43:16 p.m. EDT, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 I have original Dunlop Road Speed 590 x 15 (H) bias ply tires on my early 100. Purchased from Dunlop dealer at Vintage Tires, Nova Scotia, Canada Five tires $1600, made from the original molds in England. They are tubeless (but?use tubes inside), nylon and look period correct but ride like hell. I show the car with these.? I keep the car on tire protectors and have a spare set of wheels and Michelin X 165-15 radials for whenever I am able to safely drive the 100 again. Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Jean Caron via Healeys" 
To: "S and T Miller", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday March 24 2021 6:22:31PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 original tires


Shawn,

I have checked the book put out by Road &Track, about road tests of various models of Austin-Healey andother than references to the tire size 5.90 X15, there is verylittle about the brand although in the road test of the 100M, theymake mention of the Dunlop Road Speed.

Not knowing what countries required from thesemanufacturers, it is hard to say what tires came with the cars inNorth America. I know that here in Canada, not sure what yeareither, the Canadian requirements were that the headlights fittedto car coming from abroad had to be Canadian made, so either carscame with headlights that were sent from Canada to themanufacturers or they came here without headlights and wereinstalled by the dealers. Nowadays it is common that a car sold ina specific country must have a certain percentage of the car thatpart have to come from the country where they will be sold. As anexample, today?s Mini Cooper, when it launched in 2002, BMW listed119 suppliers of parts, coming from Brazil, USA, Germany, UK,France, Italy, Austria, Belgium and Hungary.

?

Jean

?

Sent from Mail forWindows 10

?

From:S and T Miller viaHealeys
Sent: March 24, 2021 7:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires

?

I have a Dunlop Road speed RS4 (for displaypurposes only) hanging in my garage. I was curious what originallycame on the 100? Some sources state Dunlop road speed. From somelight digging I did online it seems a RS2 or RS3 were never madeavailable. Also found that the RS4 could have been used as early as56' and the RS5 around 59'. The period ads list the RS4 for the3000 and a few other cars.?

?

So my question is, was there a RS1? Or evenjust a Road Speed without any further letter/number identification?I almost feel comfortable pointing at the tire and saying "that isthe original tire that would have come on my 57' 100-6", but whatabout the 100. Hmmmmm.? Could be wrong though.

?

Thanks? all, Shawn

?

The Millers
?
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is atest drive."

?
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From svilanspeter at xplornet.ca  Thu Mar 25 12:50:14 2021
From: svilanspeter at xplornet.ca (Peter Svilans)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 14:50:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires.
Message-ID: <ed41716d7085858b8aaf689dd1f7014d@xplornet.ca>

Hi Shawn,

Austin Healey 100's came equipped with Dunlop Road Speed 5.90-15 tires.  
These were Dunlop's tube-type (because of the wire wheels) road tires 
rated for 100mph. These slotted between their bread-and-butter tubeless 
tires, the Fort and Gold Seal, and their Racing tire which were 
mentioned as being "too noisy for road use".  The sidewall was quite 
plain-looking, except for the lettering.

The 100-Six was also fitted with so-called "Optional" Road Speeds, 
although the very rarely seen stripped-down home-market "Standard" 
disc-wheel 100-Six model technically came with Gold Seals. This was the 
case until about the middle of 1958, when the tires became the Dunlop 
RS-4.   An August 1958 road test refers to the "excellent, 
recently-introduced RS-4's".  This tire carried through to the 3000 of 
1959-60.

The 1961 Austin-Healey Mk.II came standard with the 130mph-rated Dunlop 
RS-5.

Best,

Peter
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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Mar 25 17:07:56 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 23:07:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>,
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full operating pressure.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar 25 17:14:38 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 16:14:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>

Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in the 
first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump cause same 
symptoms?


On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick 
> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop 
> out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the 
> OD to build full operating pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees 
> Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.? solenoid was bad so replaced it.? now it 
> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.?? any
> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Mar 25 18:18:18 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 18:18:18 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
Message-ID: <hureht0u2fv61omrj8h09b3l.1616717898458@email.android.com>

Well, actually that is the job of the throttle position switch on the firewall. If the OD is engaged, mashing the gas pedal should make the OD to drop out.

On March 25, 2021, at 5:11 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full operating pressure.


Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem 

?

That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.? solenoid was bad so replaced it.? now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.?? any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 25 19:39:24 2021
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 01:39:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <hureht0u2fv61omrj8h09b3l.1616717898458@email.android.com>
References: <hureht0u2fv61omrj8h09b3l.1616717898458@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CO1PR10MB47705D5DA5D8598CB53E9CCAA4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

But isn't that only if the dash switch is off? That is how my OD disengages.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Porter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 5:18 PM
To: Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem


Well, actually that is the job of the throttle position switch on the firewall. If the OD is engaged, mashing the gas pedal should make the OD to drop out.


On March 25, 2021, at 5:11 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full operating pressure.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 25 20:38:20 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2021 22:38:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <c78941e7-3b79-6c37-774b-41baa473a329@earthlink.net>
References: <c78941e7-3b79-6c37-774b-41baa473a329@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8c449f03-1a32-86c6-b6d2-35e8f12a4f89@earthlink.net>

Yes.? The throttle switch keeps the overdrive engaged when the dash 
switch is turned off.? The overdrive will disengage when the throttle is 
partially depressed.

http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/adj_trblsht_od.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/25/21 9:39 PM, Richard Kahn via Healeys wrote:
> But isn't that only if the dash switch is off? That is how my OD 
> disengages.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David 
> Porter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 5:18 PM
> *To:* Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>
> Well, actually that is the job of the throttle position switch on the 
> firewall. If the OD is engaged, mashing the gas pedal should make the 
> OD to drop out.
>
>
>
> On March 25, 2021, at 5:11 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick 
> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop 
> out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the 
> OD to build full operating pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs 
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.? solenoid was bad so replaced it.? now it 
> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating. any
> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive 
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> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
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> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Mar 26 00:13:02 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 06:13:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>,
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will engage and function until the oil temp comes up and the viscosity drops off and will then fail. I suppose it depends on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in the first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump cause same symptoms?


On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full operating pressure.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> ideas what the cause is and the fix?

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 07:03:16 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 09:03:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>

Time this question was put to bed.
1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the overdrive if the
dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If it does the system is wired
incorrectly. (BN1s are a little different)
2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but do work
when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure which is almost
always caused by accumulator issues.  The "O" rings on the outside of the
accumulator sleeve can be a problem but in my experience scoring of the
accumulator bore and damage to the rings and piston are a more common cause.
3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be lubricated with
engine oil. Decades ago I  wrote to Laycock DeNormanville, back when
letters went in envelopes with stamps, and received a  response from their
engineering department indicating clearly that the oil specified for their
products was specified by the gearbox manufacturer and whatever they
specified was acceptable for the overdrive.
M

On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will engage and
> function until the oil temp comes up and the viscosity drops off and will
> then fail. I suppose it depends on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>
> Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in the
> first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump cause same
> symptoms?
>
>
> On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>
> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick
> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is
> faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build
> full operating pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>
> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it will
> go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Mar 26 08:03:52 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 14:03:52 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 7-way fuse blocks
Message-ID: <000f01d72248$daffdcf0$90ff96d0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

Is the Charlie Hart 7-way fuse block still available?

And, wasn't a BJ8 version on the way? Did that happen?

Thanks,

Simon

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 08:26:10 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 07:26:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>

Maybe of interest to some: AFAIK, all O/D accumulators came with metal 
rings, which likely cause or at least contribute to scoring. One of the 
Brit suppliers--probably AHS but I'm not sure--has an accumulator setup 
that uses an O-ring(s) instead of metal rings, which should prevent 
scoring. I rebuilt my O/D a couple years back, and if I'd known of the 
O-ring type I would have installed it. Earlier O/Ds used metal rings in 
the actuator pistons, but later ones had O-rings, and it's logical to 
conclude LdeN went to O-rings there because of excessive scoring of the 
cases (or, possibly, because they were cheaper).

On 3/26/2021 6:03 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Time this question was put to bed.
> 1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the overdrive if 
> the dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If it does the system 
> is wired incorrectly. (BN1s are a little different)
> 2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but do 
> work when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure which is 
> almost always caused by accumulator issues.? The "O" rings on the 
> outside of the accumulator sleeve can be a problem but in my 
> experience scoring of the accumulator bore and damage to the rings and 
> piston are a more common cause.
> 3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be lubricated with 
> engine oil. Decades ago I? wrote to Laycock DeNormanville, back when 
> letters went in envelopes with stamps, and received a? response from 
> their engineering department indicating clearly that the oil specified 
> for their products was specified by the gearbox manufacturer and 
> whatever they specified was acceptable for the overdrive.
> M
>
> On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will engage
>     and function until the oil temp comes up and the viscosity drops
>     off and will then fail. I suppose it depends on the degree of
>     degradation of the o-rings.
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell
>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>     *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>     Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in
>     the first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump
>     cause same symptoms?
>
>
>     On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>>     Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to
>>     kick down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD
>>     to drop out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This
>>     won?t allow the OD to build full operating pressure.
>>
>>     Bill Lawrence
>>     BN1 #554
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
>>     Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
>>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>     That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>>
>>     Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>     Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>>     > friends BT7 had o/d quit.? solenoid was bad so replaced it.?
>>     now it will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.?? any
>>     > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 08:34:04 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 10:34:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>

Bob, I looked into installing "O" rings into an accumulator many years ago
but couldn't figure out how to get around the problem presented by the fact
that the accumulator relieves pressure by allowing the cast iron rings to
pass over radial holes in the body.
When I tried them the "O" rings were forced into those pressure relief
holes and tiny pieces were sliced off at each hole location!!
How do the accumulators with "O" rings address that issue?

M

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 10:26 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Maybe of interest to some: AFAIK, all O/D accumulators came with metal
> rings, which likely cause or at least contribute to scoring. One of the
> Brit suppliers--probably AHS but I'm not sure--has an accumulator setup
> that uses an O-ring(s) instead of metal rings, which should prevent
> scoring. I rebuilt my O/D a couple years back, and if I'd known of the
> O-ring type I would have installed it. Earlier O/Ds used metal rings in the
> actuator pistons, but later ones had O-rings, and it's logical to conclude
> LdeN went to O-rings there because of excessive scoring of the cases (or,
> possibly, because they were cheaper).
>
> On 3/26/2021 6:03 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> Time this question was put to bed.
> 1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the overdrive if the
> dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If it does the system is wired
> incorrectly. (BN1s are a little different)
> 2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but do work
> when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure which is almost
> always caused by accumulator issues.  The "O" rings on the outside of the
> accumulator sleeve can be a problem but in my experience scoring of the
> accumulator bore and damage to the rings and piston are a more common cause.
> 3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be lubricated with
> engine oil. Decades ago I  wrote to Laycock DeNormanville, back when
> letters went in envelopes with stamps, and received a  response from their
> engineering department indicating clearly that the oil specified for their
> products was specified by the gearbox manufacturer and whatever they
> specified was acceptable for the overdrive.
> M
>
> On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will engage and
>> function until the oil temp comes up and the viscosity drops off and will
>> then fail. I suppose it depends on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>
>> Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in the
>> first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump cause same
>> symptoms?
>>
>>
>> On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick
>> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is
>> faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build
>> full operating pressure.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via
>> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>
>> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it
>> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
>> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 08:39:37 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 07:39:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92e66205-520f-9576-9e34-6fac1363fe92@comcast.net>

OK, I did the hard work (2 clicks) and dug up the source:

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/gearbox-overdrive/o-ring-conversion-accumulator-piston.aspx

They claim the housing is modified as well, maybe with bevels on the 
pressure relief ports?

On 3/26/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Bob, I looked into installing "O" rings into an accumulator many years 
> ago but couldn't figure out how to get around the problem presented by 
> the fact that the accumulator relieves pressure by allowing the cast 
> iron rings to pass over radial holes in the body.
> When I tried them the "O" rings were forced into those pressure relief 
> holes and tiny pieces were sliced off at each hole location!!
> How do the accumulators with "O" rings address that issue?
>
> M
>
> On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 10:26 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Maybe of interest to some: AFAIK, all O/D accumulators came with
>     metal rings, which likely cause or at least contribute to scoring.
>     One of the Brit suppliers--probably AHS but I'm not sure--has an
>     accumulator setup that uses an O-ring(s) instead of metal rings,
>     which should prevent scoring. I rebuilt my O/D a couple years
>     back, and if I'd known of the O-ring type I would have installed
>     it. Earlier O/Ds used metal rings in the actuator pistons, but
>     later ones had O-rings, and it's logical to conclude LdeN went to
>     O-rings there because of excessive scoring of the cases (or,
>     possibly, because they were cheaper).
>
>     On 3/26/2021 6:03 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>     Time this question was put to bed.
>>     1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the overdrive
>>     if the dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If it does the
>>     system is wired incorrectly. (BN1s are a little different)
>>     2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but
>>     do work when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure
>>     which is almost always caused by accumulator issues.? The "O"
>>     rings on the outside of the accumulator sleeve can be a problem
>>     but in my experience scoring of the accumulator bore and damage
>>     to the rings and piston are a more common cause.
>>     3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be lubricated
>>     with engine oil. Decades ago I? wrote to Laycock DeNormanville,
>>     back when letters went in envelopes with stamps, and received a
>>     response from their engineering department indicating clearly
>>     that the oil specified for their products was specified by the
>>     gearbox manufacturer and whatever they specified was acceptable
>>     for the overdrive.
>>     M
>>
>>     On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys,
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will
>>         engage and function until the oil temp comes up and the
>>         viscosity drops off and will then fail. I suppose it depends
>>         on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
>>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>         *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob
>>         Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>>         *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
>>         *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>         Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from
>>         engaging in the first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a
>>         deficient pump cause same symptoms?
>>
>>
>>         On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>>>         Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not
>>>         supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault
>>>         that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the
>>>         accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full
>>>         operating pressure.
>>>
>>>         Bill Lawrence
>>>         BN1 #554
>>>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>         *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
>>>         Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
>>>         *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>>         That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>>>
>>>         Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>         Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>>>         > friends BT7 had o/d quit.? solenoid was bad so replaced
>>>         it.? now it will go into o/d but pop out when
>>>         accelerating.?? any
>>>         > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar 26 08:48:07 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 07:48:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <92e66205-520f-9576-9e34-6fac1363fe92@comcast.net>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>
 <92e66205-520f-9576-9e34-6fac1363fe92@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <c1a68e72-7324-9c4c-0691-02e1ec58f4bd@comcast.net>

Enlarging the photo clearly shows beveling on the relief ports.

On 3/26/2021 7:39 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, I did the hard work (2 clicks) and dug up the source:
>
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/gearbox-overdrive/o-ring-conversion-accumulator-piston.aspx
>
> They claim the housing is modified as well, maybe with bevels on the 
> pressure relief ports?
>
> On 3/26/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Bob, I looked into installing "O" rings into an accumulator many 
>> years ago but couldn't figure out how to get around the problem 
>> presented by the fact that the accumulator relieves pressure by 
>> allowing the cast iron rings to pass over radial holes in the body.
>> When I tried them the "O" rings were forced into those pressure 
>> relief holes and tiny pieces were sliced off at each hole location!!
>> How do the accumulators with "O" rings address that issue?
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 10:26 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Maybe of interest to some: AFAIK, all O/D accumulators came with
>>     metal rings, which likely cause or at least contribute to
>>     scoring. One of the Brit suppliers--probably AHS but I'm not
>>     sure--has an accumulator setup that uses an O-ring(s) instead of
>>     metal rings, which should prevent scoring. I rebuilt my O/D a
>>     couple years back, and if I'd known of the O-ring type I would
>>     have installed it. Earlier O/Ds used metal rings in the actuator
>>     pistons, but later ones had O-rings, and it's logical to conclude
>>     LdeN went to O-rings there because of excessive scoring of the
>>     cases (or, possibly, because they were cheaper).
>>
>>     On 3/26/2021 6:03 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>>     Time this question was put to bed.
>>>     1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the
>>>     overdrive if the dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If
>>>     it does the system is wired incorrectly. (BN1s are a little
>>>     different)
>>>     2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but
>>>     do work when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure
>>>     which is almost always caused by accumulator issues.? The "O"
>>>     rings on the outside of the accumulator sleeve can be a problem
>>>     but in my experience scoring of the accumulator bore and damage
>>>     to the rings and piston are a more common cause.
>>>     3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be
>>>     lubricated with engine oil. Decades ago I? wrote to Laycock
>>>     DeNormanville, back when letters went in envelopes with stamps,
>>>     and received a? response from their engineering department
>>>     indicating clearly that the oil specified for their products was
>>>     specified by the gearbox manufacturer and whatever they
>>>     specified was acceptable for the overdrive.
>>>     M
>>>
>>>     On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via
>>>     Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net
>>>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>>         The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will
>>>         engage and function until the oil temp comes up and the
>>>         viscosity drops off and will then fail. I suppose it depends
>>>         on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
>>>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>         *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob
>>>         Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>>>         *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
>>>         *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>>         Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from
>>>         engaging in the first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a
>>>         deficient pump cause same symptoms?
>>>
>>>
>>>         On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>>>>         Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not
>>>>         supposed to kick down automatically. The most common fault
>>>>         that causes the OD to drop out is faulty o-rings on the
>>>>         accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build full
>>>>         operating pressure.
>>>>
>>>>         Bill Lawrence
>>>>         BN1 #554
>>>>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>         *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>>>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
>>>>         Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
>>>>         *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>>>         That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick
>>>>         down!!
>>>>
>>>>         Kees Oudesluijs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>>>>         > friends BT7 had o/d quit. solenoid was bad so replaced
>>>>         it.? now it will go into o/d but pop out when
>>>>         accelerating.?? any
>>>>         > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Fri Mar 26 09:18:36 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 08:18:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <c1a68e72-7324-9c4c-0691-02e1ec58f4bd@comcast.net>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>
 <92e66205-520f-9576-9e34-6fac1363fe92@comcast.net>
 <c1a68e72-7324-9c4c-0691-02e1ec58f4bd@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNELfi0y8ekR_xisARcVq1fQ4G9mceRZc5tjmZuJ2aqpw@mail.gmail.com>

I have found OD Spares in UK to always be very helpful and knowledgeable.

http://www.odspares.com/

They supply the O ring upgraded accumulator and piston set.  This piston is
slightly larger in diameter than the original.
As an aside, 2 years after upgrading  my BJ8 OD to their accumulator set,
the OD pressure still holds 480 psi after a week !!
rg

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 7:49 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Enlarging the photo clearly shows beveling on the relief ports.
>
> On 3/26/2021 7:39 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> OK, I did the hard work (2 clicks) and dug up the source:
>
>
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/gearbox-overdrive/o-ring-conversion-accumulator-piston.aspx
>
> They claim the housing is modified as well, maybe with bevels on the
> pressure relief ports?
>
> On 3/26/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Bob, I looked into installing "O" rings into an accumulator many years ago
> but couldn't figure out how to get around the problem presented by the fact
> that the accumulator relieves pressure by allowing the cast iron rings to
> pass over radial holes in the body.
> When I tried them the "O" rings were forced into those pressure relief
> holes and tiny pieces were sliced off at each hole location!!
> How do the accumulators with "O" rings address that issue?
>
> M
>
> On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 10:26 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Maybe of interest to some: AFAIK, all O/D accumulators came with metal
>> rings, which likely cause or at least contribute to scoring. One of the
>> Brit suppliers--probably AHS but I'm not sure--has an accumulator setup
>> that uses an O-ring(s) instead of metal rings, which should prevent
>> scoring. I rebuilt my O/D a couple years back, and if I'd known of the
>> O-ring type I would have installed it. Earlier O/Ds used metal rings in the
>> actuator pistons, but later ones had O-rings, and it's logical to conclude
>> LdeN went to O-rings there because of excessive scoring of the cases (or,
>> possibly, because they were cheaper).
>>
>> On 3/26/2021 6:03 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Time this question was put to bed.
>> 1. The throttle switch is not supposed to disengage the overdrive if the
>> dash switch is in the "OVERDRIVE" position. If it does the system is wired
>> incorrectly. (BN1s are a little different)
>> 2. Overdrives which slip out, slip, or won't engage WHEN HOT but do work
>> when cold are invariably suffering from low oil pressure which is almost
>> always caused by accumulator issues.  The "O" rings on the outside of the
>> accumulator sleeve can be a problem but in my experience scoring of the
>> accumulator bore and damage to the rings and piston are a more common cause.
>> 3. Overdrives and gearboxes in Healeys are meant to be lubricated with
>> engine oil. Decades ago I  wrote to Laycock DeNormanville, back when
>> letters went in envelopes with stamps, and received a  response from their
>> engineering department indicating clearly that the oil specified for their
>> products was specified by the gearbox manufacturer and whatever they
>> specified was acceptable for the overdrive.
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Mar. 26, 2021, 2:13 a.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> The symptoms I?ve seen and experienced are that the OD will engage and
>>> function until the oil temp comes up and the viscosity drops off and will
>>> then fail. I suppose it depends on the degree of degradation of the o-rings.
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>>> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:14 PM
>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>>
>>> Sure, but wouldn't faulty O-rings prevent the OD from engaging in the
>>> first place? Just guessing, but wouldn't a deficient pump cause same
>>> symptoms?
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/25/2021 4:07 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick
>>> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop out is
>>> faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the OD to build
>>> full operating pressure.
>>>
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 #554
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via
>>> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>>>
>>> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>>> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it
>>> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
>>> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 12:10:44 2021
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 14:10:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNELfi0y8ekR_xisARcVq1fQ4G9mceRZc5tjmZuJ2aqpw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210323000658.11374.qmail@server278.com>
 <84778f6a-58ee-72c5-2e45-3b65f9c2a8e6@chello.nl>
 <CY4PR13MB11434E1B2A7CCACE7D98D61BA5629@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <9cf4948e-0fac-35dd-84c4-d47c549d60df@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11432A8F5FFF4DC00C3B34D7A5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+N-4edz+07Ym74Szb--8tvfX93vBVmr2DTbE5nZCN5mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b63fa5eb-b436-b898-0816-e05ed6800cdc@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7L+uQF2sUaBVMdOAfW2s7gfiM55SippNqWfb7LVhUXkvow@mail.gmail.com>
 <92e66205-520f-9576-9e34-6fac1363fe92@comcast.net>
 <c1a68e72-7324-9c4c-0691-02e1ec58f4bd@comcast.net>,
 <CALPtYiNELfi0y8ekR_xisARcVq1fQ4G9mceRZc5tjmZuJ2aqpw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1EFF396A-9E57-4703-BDC5-F2D6645C08FE@hxcore.ol>

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 15:40:45 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 17:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
Message-ID: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my
machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and
tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil
leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25
miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the
driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita
Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I
carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when
I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I
notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No
doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.

 

When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing
one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle
one drop of oil every second.

 

Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?

 

Bob Begani

 

 

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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Fri Mar 26 16:20:57 2021
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 15:20:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801d7228e$4d4ef6c0$e7ece440$@cox.net>

Bob,

 

I have installed this kit on 3 big healeys, and similar ones on 4 TR3/4's,
and a AH 100. 

 

It has worked as advertised on all.

 

I have the "no machine work required" on a 5th TR3 I rebuilt last year, and
that one seems to be working just fine

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Begani via
Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 2:41 PM
To: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

 

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my
machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and
tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil
leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25
miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the
driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita
Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I
carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when
I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I
notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No
doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.

 

When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing
one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle
one drop of oil every second.

 

Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?

 

Bob Begani

 

 

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 16:21:15 2021
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 15:21:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>

These seals on the 6 cylinder cars are acutally a secondary rear main seal. The original scroll seal is still there. Usually if there is a leak after installing the aftermarket rubber seal it is not the main seal. It is usually something else.  

To leak 2.5 quarts of oil  in 100 miles is major. I would be looking at other places first. Get some UV oil dye from the local parts store and put in the oil. Then look to see where it is actually coming from.

Oil flex hose to gauge, rear of valve cover, etc.  Also have seen them leak along the side of the rear main cap to the block, if they are not sealed up correctly.

If it is the rear main leaking that much oil the seal will never stop it. You probably had to little clearance on the rear scroll and the seal surface is damaged.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Bob Begani via Healeys 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 2:40 PM
To: Austin Healey list 
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.

 

When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second.

 

Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?

 

Bob Begani

 

 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar 26 16:24:22 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 22:24:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 original tires
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB48816A9FF5E702C988ADB465D4619@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you Peter and others for the information. Seems to somewhat compliment and fill in holes of the info I found online. My display tire will remain on the garage wall with pride. Always satisfying learning more about these fine automobiles.

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Fri Mar 26 16:40:25 2021
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 15:40:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <001501d72291$05e931d0$11bb9570$@cox.net>

Is it possible that is the flex line going to the oil pressure gauge that
has failed and it is simply running down?  I have had / seen this fail at
least 3 times.

 

Additionally, is it the crush washer up on the rocker arm oil feed causing a
leak behind the valve cover gasket and running down behind?  Seen this at
least 3 times as well.

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Nock via
Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 3:21 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com; Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

 

These seals on the 6 cylinder cars are acutally a secondary rear main seal.
The original scroll seal is still there. Usually if there is a leak after
installing the aftermarket rubber seal it is not the main seal. It is
usually something else.  

 

To leak 2.5 quarts of oil  in 100 miles is major. I would be looking at
other places first. Get some UV oil dye from the local parts store and put
in the oil. Then look to see where it is actually coming from.

 

Oil flex hose to gauge, rear of valve cover, etc.  Also have seen them leak
along the side of the rear main cap to the block, if they are not sealed up
correctly.

 

If it is the rear main leaking that much oil the seal will never stop it.
You probably had to little clearance on the rear scroll and the seal surface
is damaged.

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
<http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> 

 

From: Bob Begani via Healeys 

Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 2:40 PM

To: Austin Healey list 

Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

 

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my
machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and
tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil
leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25
miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the
driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita
Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I
carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when
I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I
notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No
doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.

 

When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing
one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle
one drop of oil every second.

 

Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?

 

Bob Begani

 

 

  _____  

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Mar 26 17:16:08 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 23:16:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <001501d72291$05e931d0$11bb9570$@cox.net>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>
 <001501d72291$05e931d0$11bb9570$@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1371948754.525635.1616800568471@mail.yahoo.com>

I had what appeared to be a very similar rear seal failure experience? with a TR3 engine. The mechanic that did the engine rebuild diagnosed the leak to be his failure to correctly seal the rear bearing cap. After he sealed the rear bearing cap correctly, I never had any oi leak issues with that engine.Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net
To: 'David Nock' <healeydoc at gmail.com>; rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 26, 2021 5:40 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

#yiv5250022913 #yiv5250022913 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5250022913 #yiv5250022913 p.yiv5250022913MsoNormal, #yiv5250022913 li.yiv5250022913MsoNormal, #yiv5250022913 div.yiv5250022913MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5250022913 a:link, #yiv5250022913 span.yiv5250022913MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5250022913 span.yiv5250022913EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv5250022913 .yiv5250022913MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv5250022913 div.yiv5250022913WordSection1 {}#yiv5250022913 Is it possible that is the flex line going to the oil pressure gauge that has failed and it is simply running down?? I have had / seen this fail at least 3 times. ?Additionally, is it the crush washer up on the rocker arm oil feed causing a leak behind the valve cover gasket and running down behind?? Seen this at least 3 times as well. ? ?From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Nock via Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 3:21 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com; Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit ?These seals on the 6 cylinder cars are acutally a secondary rear main seal. The original scroll seal is still there. Usually if there is a leak after installing the aftermarket rubber seal it is not the main seal. It is usually something else.? ?To leak 2.5 quarts of oil? in 100 miles is major. I would be looking at other places first. Get some UV oil dye from the local parts store and put in the oil. Then look to see where it is actually coming from.?Oil flex hose to gauge, rear of valve cover, etc.? Also have seen them leak along the side of the rear main cap to the block, if they are not sealed up correctly.?If it is the rear main leaking that much oil the seal will never stop it. You probably had to little clearance on the rear scroll and the seal surface is damaged.??David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org?From: Bob Begani via Healeys Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 2:40 PMTo: Austin Healey list Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit?When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc.? I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks.? In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway.? Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.? Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.? In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.? No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.?When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second.?Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit??Bob Begani??_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From manifold at telus.net  Fri Mar 26 17:16:05 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 16:16:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <001501d72291$05e931d0$11bb9570$@cox.net>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>,
 <001501d72291$05e931d0$11bb9570$@cox.net>
Message-ID: <3B5661CB-183F-4939-AD0B-6061F700EB46@hxcore.ol>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar 26 18:09:51 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 00:09:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <662710748.960975.1616803791155@mail.yahoo.com>

BobAre you sure you do not have excessive crankcase pressure? There are a few places that could leak if that is the case and the rear crank area is one.P


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 26, 2021 5:40 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

<!--#yiv6970376941 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6970376941 #yiv6970376941 p.yiv6970376941MsoNormal, #yiv6970376941 li.yiv6970376941MsoNormal, #yiv6970376941 div.yiv6970376941MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv6970376941 span.yiv6970376941EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv6970376941 .yiv6970376941MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv6970376941 div.yiv6970376941WordSection1 {}-->When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc. ?I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks.? In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway.? Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.? Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.? In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.? No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate. ?When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second. ?Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit? ?Bob Begani ? ?_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Mar 26 19:05:16 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 21:05:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <34BD472FDC7E44C094ADA5618AC2EB03@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwHWDdfGazW0t4m6g7_ExSrNN-1u+vHB2aNTHF3JLk7NMA@mail.gmail.com>

Bob - I put on a seal and still have leaks.

David - thanks for the insight. Something to look for.

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021, 6:22 PM David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> These seals on the 6 cylinder cars are acutally a secondary rear main
> seal. The original scroll seal is still there. Usually if there is a leak
> after installing the aftermarket rubber seal it is not the main seal. It is
> usually something else.
>
> To leak 2.5 quarts of oil  in 100 miles is major. I would be looking at
> other places first. Get some UV oil dye from the local parts store and put
> in the oil. Then look to see where it is actually coming from.
>
> Oil flex hose to gauge, rear of valve cover, etc.  Also have seen them
> leak along the side of the rear main cap to the block, if they are not
> sealed up correctly.
>
> If it is the rear main leaking that much oil the seal will never stop it.
> You probably had to little clearance on the rear scroll and the seal
> surface is damaged.
>
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>
> *From:* Bob Begani via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, March 26, 2021 2:40 PM
> *To:* Austin Healey list
> *Subject:* [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
>
>
> When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my
> machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling
> and tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft
> oil leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000
> miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on
> the driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in
> Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.
> Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill
> the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.
> In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I
> accelerated.  No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.
>
>
>
> When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was
> producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at
> fast idle one drop of oil every second.
>
>
>
> Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Fri Mar 26 19:06:03 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 21:06:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <662710748.960975.1616803791155@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <662710748.960975.1616803791155@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <165938031.93577349.1616807163822.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I've had that mod or a long time and no detectable oil leaks.
----- Original Message -----
From: healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 20:09:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit


Bob
Are you sure you do not have excessive crankcase pressure? There are a few places that could leak if that is the case and the rear crank area is one.P


-----Original Message-----

From: Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

To: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Fri, Mar 26, 2021 5:40 pm

Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.  When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second.  Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?  Bob Begani    
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 02:13:20 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 04:13:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
Message-ID: <050101d722e1$0d2a7030$277f5090$@gmail.com>

Thanks to all of you for your comments.  I will investigate the items
outside of the engine and must wait to disassemble the engine for those
inside the engine.  Meanwhile, I will buy lots of oil, Kitty Litter for the
oil pans under the car and not go far from home.

 

Best regards to all,

 

Bob Begani

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Mar 27 15:25:23 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 21:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trans Dowel Bolts
References: <1407592868.1032719.1616880323442.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1407592868.1032719.1616880323442@mail.yahoo.com>

As I said in a post post to the list, I was looking for the dowel bolts to assemble (on center) the BN2 transmission to the engine backplate.? Curt Arndt was kind enough to furnish pictures of the correct dowel bolts used in production of the 4 speed side shift BN2 transmission.? The only supplier of these original style bolts in the UK did not have any in stock, but did list them on their web site.? They may be available in the future I would venture to guess.? My only alternative was to ask the wisdom of the list.? David Nock was very helpful with this problem. He told me the later dowel bolts for BN4 type cars would work.? As luck would have it, he sells them at a better price than you can find online.? I took the plunge and purchased the two dowel bolts required for centering the transmission on installation and they arrived in the mail today along with nylon insert nuts and lock washers.? The lock washers play an important part in this.? When you measure the two thicknesses of the backplate and the transmission flange in the location of the two dowel bolts, you come up 1/16th of an inch (plus a little for the recess in the trans flange face) greater in length than the unthreaded shank of the dowel bolt.? The big lockwasher is thick enough to allow you to tighten the nyloc nut all the way down.? The lock washer is thicker than 1/16th of an inch.? I understand the temptation to just use some 3/8ths bolts in all the holes, but when I tried the dowel bolt in any of the other holes not intended for dowel bolts, it was a very loose fit.? So add to the fact that all 3/8ths bolts used might make it hard to center the transmission to avoid undue lateral pressure on the components inside the bell housing and the transmission output shaft bearings.? This information only relates to BN2 transmission installation as I have no experience with the BN1.? As an aside, I don't understand the round head with two flats of the original dowel bolt.? The BN2 transmission has a recess in the flange where the dowel bolt head is located,, but the hex head of the BN4 dowel bolt fits fine in this recess as if the recess is only the to mark the spot where the dowel bolt goes.? OK, class dismissed.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar 27 16:25:44 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 18:25:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trans Dowel Bolts
References: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A@aol.com>



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More useless information. Using a regular 3/8 UNF bolt with a long enough shank could potentially allow the bell housing to hang 0.001 inch low on the engine back plate. 
The play in a new input shaft bearing will allow the tip of shaft (where it enters the bushing in the crank) to move, much more than 0.001. So is alignment really an issue with tolerances this small? 
P 

Sent from my iPhone

From schottc at knology.net  Sat Mar 27 17:40:22 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 19:40:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 4-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <165938031.93577349.1616807163822.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
 <662710748.960975.1616803791155@mail.yahoo.com>
 <165938031.93577349.1616807163822.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <1282222487.8022132.1616888422362.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I have for sale a single lip seal conversion kit for a 100-4 that requires machining of the crankshaft. Please let me know if you are interested. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Tom Felts via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeyguy at aol.com 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 8:06:03 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit 

I've had that mod or a long time and no detectable oil leaks. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 20:09:51 -0400 (EDT) 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit 


Bob 
Are you sure you do not have excessive crankcase pressure? There are a few places that could leak if that is the case and the rear crank area is one. 
P 



-----Original Message----- 

From: Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 

To: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net> 

Sent: Fri, Mar 26, 2021 5:40 pm 

Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit 

When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc. I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks. In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway. Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph. Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home. In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4 th gear in overdrive if I accelerated. No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate. 
When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second. 
Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit? 
Bob Begani 

_______________________________________________ 

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Suggested annual donation $12.75 


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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_______________________________________________ 
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Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Mar 27 18:27:15 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 00:27:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <050101d722e1$0d2a7030$277f5090$@gmail.com>
References: <050101d722e1$0d2a7030$277f5090$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB114330D119F8FC98C6746AB2A57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

The oil seal doesn?t do much if the bearing block doesn?t seal. Installation of the felt dowels that seal the block is critical.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2021 8:13 AM
To: Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit


Thanks to all of you for your comments.  I will investigate the items outside of the engine and must wait to disassemble the engine for those inside the engine.  Meanwhile, I will buy lots of oil, Kitty Litter for the oil pans under the car and not go far from home.



Best regards to all,



Bob Begani
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Mar 27 19:06:19 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 01:06:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trans Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A@aol.com>
References: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A.ref@aol.com>
 <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <836730287.1204144.1616893579519@mail.yahoo.com>

Apparently the factory thought so.Mike M

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Mar 27, 2021 at 3:26 PM, Perry Small via Healeys<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   


More useless information. Using a regular 3/8 UNF bolt with a long enough shank could potentially allow the bell housing to hang 0.001 inch low on the engine back plate. 
The play in a new input shaft bearing will allow the tip of shaft (where it enters the bushing in the crank) to move, much more than 0.001. So is alignment really an issue with tolerances this small? 
P 

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From jtkarowe at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 19:16:45 2021
From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 11:16:45 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB114330D119F8FC98C6746AB2A57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <050101d722e1$0d2a7030$277f5090$@gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB114330D119F8FC98C6746AB2A57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAO-rHKt_Tc0_SGxVEefrvHWj=WnCDiX8HObFE=nQVmRvg7ew+Q@mail.gmail.com>

I fitted the Conversion some years ago but the vehicle always left its mark
when turned off, but oil usage was negligible. Having removed the gearbox
last week, whilst it was away I decided to investigate further. I removed
the flywheel and engine backing plate. The area around the seal was
perfectly clean and dry, but there was oil leaking from the rear of the
camshaft. This (ex US) car never had a gasket between the block and plate
so when I rebuilt the engine I put silicone gasket maker in the area which
had evidently not worked. I made a new gasket out of 1.6mm (1/16 inch)
gasket paper, sealed with Permatex No3 sealant and the fix appears to have
worked.
John Rowe Qld Australia


On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 10:30 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The oil seal doesn?t do much if the bearing block doesn?t seal.
> Installation of the felt dowels that seal the block is critical.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Begani
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2021 8:13 AM
> *To:* Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion
> Kit
>
>
> Thanks to all of you for your comments.  I will investigate the items
> outside of the engine and must wait to disassemble the engine for those
> inside the engine.  Meanwhile, I will buy lots of oil, Kitty Litter for the
> oil pans under the car and not go far from home.
>
>
>
> Best regards to all,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Mar 27 20:31:00 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 02:31:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
References: <1399292183.1213756.1616898660338.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1399292183.1213756.1616898660338@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone tell me the measurement for the 3 holes per side to mount the top bows for my BN2?? For some reason these holes were filled in by some ignorant body and fender guy.? I don't know if this was done before or after I got the car, but I need to drill them out now.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 20:36:34 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 22:36:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Trans Dowel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A@aol.com>
References: <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A.ref@aol.com>
 <CBD9CAA8-37D1-450B-A7FC-BE059D23A51A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+fZa69X+N3if1yjqdOsQhpdEZOhg7W4NSof2gBj1QoTw@mail.gmail.com>

Perry I  would think that the bigger problem would be the gear alignment.
If the forward end on the input shaft were to be displaced the input gear
would engage with the laygear at an angle. .. not good.

M

On Sat., Mar. 27, 2021, 6:26 p.m. Perry Small via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>
>
> More useless information. Using a regular 3/8 UNF bolt with a long enough
> shank could potentially allow the bell housing to hang 0.001 inch low on
> the engine back plate.
> The play in a new input shaft bearing will allow the tip of shaft (where
> it enters the bushing in the crank) to move, much more than 0.001. So is
> alignment really an issue with tolerances this small?
> P
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar 27 20:49:30 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2021 19:49:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB114330D119F8FC98C6746AB2A57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <050101d722e1$0d2a7030$277f5090$@gmail.com>
 <CY4PR13MB114330D119F8FC98C6746AB2A57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6ee9fa3b-1826-9648-e8ec-4c862629935e@comcast.net>

An alternative to the felt 'cigarettes' is a good RTV. I happened to 
visit my BJ8's builder when he was using a caulking gun and all the 
strength he could muster to inject 'Right Stuff' sealant into these 
holes. He wouldn't even acknowledge my presence until he'd completely 
filled the holes.

He also wouldn't install the crank seal I'd provided, insisting instead 
on an elegant PCV installation. Leaking from the weep hole has been minimal.


On 3/27/2021 5:27 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote:
> The oil seal doesn?t do much if the bearing block doesn?t seal. 
> Installation of the felt dowels that seal the block is critical.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob 
> Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 27, 2021 8:13 AM
> *To:* Austin Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal 
> Conversion Kit
>
> Thanks to all of you for your comments.? I will investigate the items 
> outside of the engine and must wait to disassemble the engine for 
> those inside the engine.? Meanwhile, I will buy lots of oil, Kitty 
> Litter for the oil pans under the car and not go far from home.
>
> Best regards to all,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>

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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sat Mar 27 20:50:33 2021
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 13:50:33 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] 6-cylinder Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
References: <03ff01d72288$ae8f1bf0$0bad53d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <32D2D8A9-FF81-45BF-BC56-40C590B10BAE@gmail.com>

I saw the most bizzare oil leak on a race Spridget a couple of weeks back. Oil was everywhere. Turns out the Oil was leaking from the main oil gallery end plugs. Front and rear. You know, those brass or aluminium plugs that you smack in to seal the ends of the main oil galllery. 
Peter tapped them on the Healey engine and fitted screw in bungs when my engine was built 20 years ago, which is what?s going to happen with this sprite!!
You can lose a lot of oil very quickly from these plugs!!!
Best
Chris 


> On 27 Mar 2021, at 8:44 am, Bob Begani via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> When we rebuilt my BJ8 Engine I bought the Oil Seal from Moss and my machinist friend installed it. I am confident he did a good job drilling and tapping holes etc.  I had hoped that I would not have rear crankshaft oil leaks.  In the past year I have driven the car a little over 1,000 miles 25 miles at I time and recently noticed those infamous oil spots on the driveway.  Today I visited my British Car friends at Tech Central in Bonita Springs a 100-mile round trip on I-75 nonstop at 65-75 mph.  Fortunately, I carried 2.5 quarts of oil because I had to use it to fill the crankcase when I got there and had to add 2.5 quarts when I got home.  In addition, I notice the clutch slipping in 4th gear in overdrive if I accelerated.  No doubt caused by oil on surface of the friction plate.
>  
> When I got home the weep hole in the transmission bell housing was producing one oil drop every three seconds and when running the engine at fast idle one drop of oil every second.
>  
> Has anyone had a failure using this seal conversion kit?
>  
> Bob Begani
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Mar 27 21:27:15 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 03:27:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <1399292183.1213756.1616898660338@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1399292183.1213756.1616898660338.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1399292183.1213756.1616898660338@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143968C96DBD365C6761B3FA57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

If the panels were replaced they would have had no holes. I could give you dimensions, but I?m not sure mine are correct. It would be interesting to see what the pros say.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 2:31 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows

Can someone tell me the measurement for the 3 holes per side to mount the top bows for my BN2?  For some reason these holes were filled in by some ignorant body and fender guy.  I don't know if this was done before or after I got the car, but I need to drill them out now.
Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 12:27:46 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 11:27:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative to felt "cigarette" plugs in rear main cap
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNuXascOphO_rXoUVQYi4_vJnHmsb1p+4JNEgJAmJLKxA@mail.gmail.com>

I use cotton string. I feed it into the hole and tamp it down as I go using
a large nail (16d?) as a punch - after flattening the sharp end of course.
It goes quickly and leaves no voids. Never leaks and there's no cleanup
necessary on teardown  - which happens regularly with race motors .
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Mar 28 12:34:23 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 18:34:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
Message-ID: <e02d562ab47446d48d13d82e4bc19a803cffa430@webmail>

Michael-these photos are on the disc I sent you (folder: hood -top)
but you can see the general placement. The front turnbutton is most
critical for fit. The second one back is a bit redundant and can vary
slightly and the rear one, closest to the bar retainer, can move
around a little and then you add the tenax fastener to match when
completed. Feel under the fender and in the boot for a bump where the
bodyman filled in the holes if original and not Kilmartin parts. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
via Healeys" 
To: "Michael MacLean via Healeys", "Michael MacLean"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 27 2021 8:31:16PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bows

 If the panels were replaced they would have had no holes. I could
give you dimensions, but I?m not sure mine are correct. It would be
interesting to see what the pros say. 
 Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 
-------------------------
FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys 
SENT: Sunday, March 28, 2021 2:31 AM
TO: Healeys 
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Top Bows    Can someone tell me the measurement for
the 3 holes per side to mount the top bows for my BN2? For some reason
these holes were filled in by some ignorant body and fender guy. I
don't know if this was done before or after I got the car, but I need
to drill them out now. Mike MacLean

 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1]   

Links:
------
[1]
https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Mar 28 12:44:41 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 18:44:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
Message-ID: <5c908471a0a22247ba77d424808d9a0edc900e7a@webmail>


Here is the position of the bow mounting three holes-again feel in
fender well for bumps from filler.(This photo is on a BN1). Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 27 2021 7:33:05PM
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows

 Can someone tell me the measurement for the 3 holes per side to mount
the top bows for my BN2? For some reason these holes were filled in by
some ignorant body and fender guy. I don't know if this was done
before or after I got the car, but I need to drill them out now. Mike
MacLean

 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1]  

Links:
------
[1]
https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 13:50:52 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 12:50:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gas flowing out of manifold tube
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_ejk677RPMddkpaVC8aEkqoQGDxiXuGtDAuSg+Cwkfmg@mail.gmail.com>

My car has been in storage for 6 months
I planned to drive it home on Tuesday. Stopped by to see if battery needed
charging. Turned key, all systems lit up, pump slowed, tried starting. Car
started on 2nd try. Ran it for about 5 min. Turned off, found puddle of gas
under car and saw gas dripping from manifold tube. Sticky jet or other
issue?
Suggestions appreciated.
Happy Spring.
We have a 5 day sun forcast
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 28 14:05:35 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 16:05:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas flowing out of manifold tube
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_ejk677RPMddkpaVC8aEkqoQGDxiXuGtDAuSg+Cwkfmg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ejk677RPMddkpaVC8aEkqoQGDxiXuGtDAuSg+Cwkfmg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKY_6t3rtBEkTg=incD1URDuFngBoEGX5TOUKhzJNTaWA@mail.gmail.com>

Almost certainly a dirt in a float chamber float valve but can be a float
that has gone down ( like the Titanic but smaller).
I  would see if it goes away when you start the engine before doing
anything else.
To be sure take off the chamber lid and check the float ... they do
occasionally develop leaks at the seams.

M

On Sun., Mar. 28, 2021, 3:51 p.m. i erbs via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> My car has been in storage for 6 months
> I planned to drive it home on Tuesday. Stopped by to see if battery needed
> charging. Turned key, all systems lit up, pump slowed, tried starting. Car
> started on 2nd try. Ran it for about 5 min. Turned off, found puddle of gas
> under car and saw gas dripping from manifold tube. Sticky jet or other
> issue?
> Suggestions appreciated.
> Happy Spring.
> We have a 5 day sun forcast
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 25 22:52:19 2021
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 04:52:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <c78941e7-3b79-6c37-774b-41baa473a329@earthlink.net>
References: <hureht0u2fv61omrj8h09b3l.1616717898458@email.android.com>
 <CO1PR10MB47705D5DA5D8598CB53E9CCAA4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>,
 <c78941e7-3b79-6c37-774b-41baa473a329@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CO1PR10MB47708C3B81ACA3D51A1C6F57A4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Interesting that he calls for non detergent oil. We have had this discussion often in the past. That has always been my preference.

________________________________
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 7:31 PM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>; Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; David Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

Yes.  The throttle switch keeps the overdrive engaged when the dash
switch is turned off.  The overdrive will disengage when the throttle is
partially depressed.

http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/adj_trblsht_od.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/25/21 9:39 PM, Richard Kahn via Healeys wrote:
> But isn't that only if the dash switch is off? That is how my OD
> disengages.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Porter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 5:18 PM
> *To:* Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net
> <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>
> Well, actually that is the job of the throttle position switch on the
> firewall. If the OD is engaged, mashing the gas pedal should make the
> OD to drop out.
>
>
>
> On March 25, 2021, at 5:11 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick
> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop
> out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the
> OD to build full operating pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it
> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Mar 26 00:25:06 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 06:25:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <CO1PR10MB47708C3B81ACA3D51A1C6F57A4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <hureht0u2fv61omrj8h09b3l.1616717898458@email.android.com>
 <CO1PR10MB47705D5DA5D8598CB53E9CCAA4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>,
 <c78941e7-3b79-6c37-774b-41baa473a329@earthlink.net>,
 <CO1PR10MB47708C3B81ACA3D51A1C6F57A4619@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11438AED09EA6BA41584024DA5619@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

In order to kick down you have to turn the OD switch off. The throttle switch is meant to keep you from disengaging the overdrive while the throttle is closed. Austin and DHM felt that put too much stress on the drive train. You have to open the throttle to get Revs up before the OD will disengage.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 4:52 AM
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; David Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

Interesting that he calls for non detergent oil. We have had this discussion often in the past. That has always been my preference.

________________________________
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 7:31 PM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>; Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; David Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem

Yes.  The throttle switch keeps the overdrive engaged when the dash
switch is turned off.  The overdrive will disengage when the throttle is
partially depressed.

http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/adj_trblsht_od.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/25/21 9:39 PM, Richard Kahn via Healeys wrote:
> But isn't that only if the dash switch is off? That is how my OD
> disengages.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Porter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 5:18 PM
> *To:* Bill Lawrence <ynotink at msn.com>; healeys at autox team. net
> <healeys at autox.team.net>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
>
> Well, actually that is the job of the throttle position switch on the
> firewall. If the OD is engaged, mashing the gas pedal should make the
> OD to drop out.
>
>
>
> On March 25, 2021, at 5:11 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Sorry, but the Laycock deNormanville overdrive is not supposed to kick
> down automatically. The most common fault that causes the OD to drop
> out is faulty o-rings on the accumulator sleeve. This won?t allow the
> OD to build full operating pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 23, 2021 7:37 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overdrive problem
> That is the way it should be when accelerating hard, Kick down!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 23-3-2021 om 01:06 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
> > friends BT7 had o/d quit.  solenoid was bad so replaced it.  now it
> will go into o/d but pop out when accelerating.   any
> > ideas what the cause is and the fix?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Mar 28 15:05:44 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 21:05:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <e02d562ab47446d48d13d82e4bc19a803cffa430@webmail>
References: <e02d562ab47446d48d13d82e4bc19a803cffa430@webmail>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11436BC9AB311103414410FAA57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I thought the question was about the placement of the triangular plates that suppport and locate the lower ends of the hood sticks. I had to locate these with no real clue as to their proper position. I did it by attaching the top to the body cleats at the rear and the windscreen at the front and then erecting the sticks underneath. After I had them I about the right position and fully extended I marked the positions for the screws. I was probably lucky and my top seems to fit correctly, but it would have been nice to have a template.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 6:34 PM
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: 'Michael MacLean via Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>; 'Michael MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bows

Michael-these photos are on the disc I sent you (folder: hood -top) but you can see the general placement.  The front turnbutton is most critical for fit.  The second one back is a bit redundant and can vary slightly and the rear one, closest to the bar retainer, can move around a little and then you add the tenax fastener to match when completed.  Feel under the fender and in the boot for a bump where the bodyman filled in the holes if original and not Kilmartin parts. Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys"
To: "Michael MacLean via Healeys", "Michael MacLean"
Cc:
Sent: Saturday March 27 2021 8:31:16PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bows

If the panels were replaced they would have had no holes. I could give you dimensions, but I?m not sure mine are correct. It would be interesting to see what the pros say.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 2:31 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows

Can someone tell me the measurement for the 3 holes per side to mount the top bows for my BN2?  For some reason these holes were filled in by some ignorant body and fender guy.  I don't know if this was done before or after I got the car, but I need to drill them out now.
Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Mar 28 16:17:19 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2021 22:17:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11436BC9AB311103414410FAA57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <e02d562ab47446d48d13d82e4bc19a803cffa430@webmail>
 <CY4PR13MB11436BC9AB311103414410FAA57F9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <742286975.1394615.1616969839481@mail.yahoo.com>

I should give a little more information.? I have a top bow assembly given to me by the friend that sold me the rolling frame.? It has been sitting out of a car for many years and has a light coat of rust.? I had to spray penetrant to get the hinge points moving.? I have a new wood header to install, but no top material yet.? The holes were definitely filled in at some point as there is a faint trace of the pre-existing hole that shows from before the bodywork on one side.? See attached pictures.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 2:05 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE<ynotink at msn.com> wrote:   I thought the question was about the placement of the triangular plates that suppport and locate the lower ends of the hood sticks. I had to locate these with no real clue as to their proper position. I did it by attaching the top to the body cleats at the rear and the windscreen at the front and then erecting the sticks underneath. After I had them I about the right position and fully extended I marked the positions for the screws. I was probably lucky and my top seems to fit correctly, but it would have been nice to have a template.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 6:34 PM
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: 'Michael MacLean via Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>; 'Michael MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bows?Michael-these photos are on the disc I sent you (folder: hood -top) but you can see the general placement.? The front turnbutton is most critical for fit.? The second one back is a bit redundant and can vary slightly and the rear one, closest to the bar retainer, can move around a little and then you add the tenax fastener to match when completed.? Feel under the fender and in the boot for a bump where the bodyman filled in the holes if original and not Kilmartin parts. Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys" 
To: "Michael MacLean via Healeys", "Michael MacLean"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 27 2021 8:31:16PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bows

If the panels were replaced they would have had no holes. I could give you dimensions, but I?m not sure mine are correct. It would be interesting to see what the pros say.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2021 2:31 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Top Bows?Can someone tell me the measurement for the 3 holes per side to mount the top bows for my BN2?? For some reason these holes were filled in by some ignorant body and fender guy.? I don't know if this was done before or after I got the car, but I need to drill them out now.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android  
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 29 12:15:57 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 18:15:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative rear main cap cigarette seals
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB48818264F37737AE8866ABC6D47E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

What size cotton string do you use? Probably doesn't matter, but curious what you typical start with. Thanks for the tip.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Mar 29 16:02:05 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 22:02:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative rear main cap cigarette seals
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB48818264F37737AE8866ABC6D47E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB48818264F37737AE8866ABC6D47E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143FDB3FBED28E5F0D1069AA57E9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I solved the problem by finding a short price of tubing with the same ID as the recess and a rod of the same diameter. I fed the packing (I?d hate to call it a seal) into the tube and started it in the recess and then forced it in with the rod and a ball pien hammer. I had already placed a small amount of Hylomar in the recess. I managed to pack the whole stick into it and have no leaks (at least from the main seals)...

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2021 6:15 PM
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative rear main cap cigarette seals

What size cotton string do you use? Probably doesn't matter, but curious what you typical start with. Thanks for the tip.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From roggrace at telus.net  Mon Mar 29 16:07:07 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 15:07:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
Message-ID: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>

BJ8 ph2.
I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe adjustment.
All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it is
almost vertical.
Background:
New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign of
any wear yet.
Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted tight.
Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
All OK so far.

Here is the problem:
When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it moves
with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.  However  when
released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and not at  the same
setting that started off with.
Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite the
off position. Both wheels are the same.
Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster back and
forth in  the freeplay zone.
All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.

My thoughts :
I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
See photo of RR.
I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
floating ?
Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?

All  suggestions appreciated
rg
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 29 16:51:34 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 22:51:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
Message-ID: <98cb7ac7a442c01a01350c38b12980ec4dd43440@webmail>

Handbrake adjustment is a totally different item. Stretched cable or
wrong cable? max adjustment on threaded rod? Adjustment procedure in
book.
Did you grease the adjuster and oil the felts on the steady posts?
Both springs are the same or the one closest to the adjuster could be
shorter (sometimes) and they rub on the shoes-that's ok. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roger Grace via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 29 2021 3:12:56PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment

  BJ8 ph2. I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake
shoe adjustment. All part of a project to get handbrake working
properly - currently it is almost vertical.
 Background:
 New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no
sign of any wear yet.
 Handbrake lever clevis pins removed. Steady post adjusted so the peg
just touches when brakes are adjusted tight. Then the adjustment set
so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag. All OK so far. 
 Here is the problem:
 When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
However when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
not at the same setting that started off with. Same story with using
the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite the off position. Both
wheels are the same.
 Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the adjuster
back and forth in the freeplay zone. All looks fine when drum is off
and you can see the shoe operation.

 My thoughts :
 I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes
? Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ? Is it
possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ? See photo of RR.
 I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
floating ? Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?

 All suggestions appreciated
 rg


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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 29 19:06:06 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 18:06:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative rear main cap cigarette seals
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB48818264F37737AE8866ABC6D47E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB48818264F37737AE8866ABC6D47E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqN9i-ymJ0h2vWur43sZTY1eYybr-v6w-dND6eTACxaEZQ@mail.gmail.com>

II don't know what size it is. It's just regular white string in a ball
that I've had for years.   It's nothing special.

On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 11:15 AM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> What size cotton string do you use? Probably doesn't matter, but curious
> what you typical start with. Thanks for the tip.
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 29 23:33:22 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2021 22:33:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>

re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is 
normal floating ?"

I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my 
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining 
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that 
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the 
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I 
installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate 
on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables 
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had 
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the 
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate 
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which 
makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot, 
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate 
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder 
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.

Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise 
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be 
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting 
problem.

Bob


On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> BJ8 ph2.
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe adjustment.
> All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it 
> is almost vertical.
> Background:
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign 
> of any wear yet.
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted 
> tight.
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
> All OK so far.
>
> Here is the problem:
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it 
> moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.? 
> However? when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and 
> not at? the same setting that started off with.
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite 
> the off position. Both wheels are the same.
> Shoes can be "reset"? to original setting by rattling the adjuster 
> back and forth in? the freeplay zone.
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>
> My thoughts :
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> See photo of RR.
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal 
> floating ?
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>
> All? suggestions appreciated
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 03:24:51 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 05:24:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AH-BS with Geoff Chrysler
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfrThRF4j8BSDxgtJmbMCMQQ=VTpA3epJTzXR88N-dx9g@mail.gmail.com>

For those that didn't get a chance to join the Austin-Healey Club of New
England's AH-BS call with Geoff Chrysler of Rightway Heritage Trimming last
night, here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGLbLVqfme8&t=5s
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGLbLVqfme8&t=5s&fbclid=IwAR1a70jnX8eTLiJfQ3gmGzlKuxOkqR1L2Mk2sl1xPVxGkz1lkx4sMYQvHIA>
You
may also want to pay a visit to his website:
https://www.rightwayheritagetrim.com/
<https://www.rightwayheritagetrim.com/?fbclid=IwAR2AfemURxLBqp42UoQfUx2RJsW2aIci12PvEvSpkU2OOd__GJkUc5LE4xc>

Rick Neville
President.
Austin-Healey Club of New England
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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Mar 30 10:52:05 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 09:52:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
rg

On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
> normal floating ?"
>
> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate
> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables
> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which
> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>
> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be
> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
> problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> > BJ8 ph2.
> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe adjustment.
> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it
> > is almost vertical.
> > Background:
> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign
> > of any wear yet.
> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
> > tight.
> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
> > All OK so far.
> >
> > Here is the problem:
> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
> > However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
> > not at  the same setting that started off with.
> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
> > Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster
> > back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
> >
> > My thoughts :
> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> > See photo of RR.
> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
> > floating ?
> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
> >
> > All  suggestions appreciated
> > rg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Mar 30 14:18:13 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 13:18:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>,
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5417F2C2-AC53-4BEB-8BF1-43DD6EC5DC12@hxcore.ol>

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 15:23:45 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 17:23:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <5417F2C2-AC53-4BEB-8BF1-43DD6EC5DC12@hxcore.ol>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>,
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <5417F2C2-AC53-4BEB-8BF1-43DD6EC5DC12@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <0ecc01d725aa$f7fa19f0$e7ee4dd0$@gmail.com>

While my BJ8 was still on stands after installing the engine and transmission, I took the rear brakes apart and installed new cylinders and shoes, springs etc.  It was a great deal of pushing and shoving to get the first one apart so I could clean and oil those items which would be moving.  Still, I had to take it apart and put it back together 3 times before the system looked and worked good.  The left rear brake was easier and took only 2 assemblies to get it right.  Then came the installation of the emergency brake. Again 2-3 times before it was adjusted and operating.  

 

Fast forward to last week when turning on to the Tamiami Trail and accelerating up to the 45 mph speed limit in very little traffic I approached a cross access of the 4 lane divided highway and carefully watched 2 cars waiting to cross in front of me when the big old Lincoln Town Car pulled out in front of me.  It was a good test of the brakes.  All 4 activated at the same time, helped by my new Michelin tires we stopped a full car length away from the passenger side doors.  I could see his Mrs. going into shock because the driver had come to a complete stop broadside in front of us.  

 

Before all this work on the brakes, my BJ8 rear wheels for years would activate independently as a result the car would slide sideways.  

 

Keep working on the brakes as the life you save might be your own.

 

Best regards,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 4:18 PM
To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>; Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment

 

Does this help? Note the difference between item 2 and 4.

 

Harold Manifold

 

From: Roger Grace via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:54 AM
To: Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment

 

Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !

rg

 

On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is 
normal floating ?"

I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my 
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining 
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that 
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the 
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I 
installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate 
on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables 
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had 
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the 
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate 
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which 
makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot, 
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate 
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder 
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.

Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise 
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be 
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting 
problem.

Bob


On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> BJ8 ph2.
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe adjustment.
> All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it 
> is almost vertical.
> Background:
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign 
> of any wear yet.
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted 
> tight.
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
> All OK so far.
>
> Here is the problem:
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it 
> moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.  
> However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and 
> not at  the same setting that started off with.
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite 
> the off position. Both wheels are the same.
> Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster 
> back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>
> My thoughts :
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> See photo of RR.
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal 
> floating ?
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>
> All  suggestions appreciated
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 30 20:48:29 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 19:48:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>

Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s 
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust 
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.

Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:

1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam 
and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on

2) Insert cylinder into its slot

3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the 
slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows

4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the 
outside

5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake 
pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)

6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot 
on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would 
help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to 
prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might 
be possible to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks). 
Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the 
flat plate.

7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around 
and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the 
plates (see vid).

8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)

Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of 
aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not 
only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber 
that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).

Bob

ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job 
every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every 
time.


On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes thank you;? that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is 
> a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
> rg
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>     normal floating ?"
>
>     I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
>     BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
>     installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
>     the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
>     cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
>     installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
>     plate
>     on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
>     enables
>     the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot
>     had
>     nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation;
>     i.e. the
>     spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
>     (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
>     which
>     makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
>     which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
>     and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>     back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>
>     Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
>     otherwise
>     the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder
>     could be
>     stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
>     non-retracting
>     problem.
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>     > BJ8 ph2.
>     > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
>     adjustment.
>     > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
>     currently it
>     > is almost vertical.
>     > Background:
>     > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost
>     no sign
>     > of any wear yet.
>     > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>     > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are
>     adjusted
>     > tight.
>     > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
>     > All OK so far.
>     >
>     > Here is the problem:
>     > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
>     > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
>     > However? when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes
>     bind and
>     > not at? the same setting that started off with.
>     > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not
>     quite
>     > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>     > Shoes can be "reset"? to original setting by rattling the adjuster
>     > back and forth in? the freeplay zone.
>     > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>     >
>     > My thoughts :
>     > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the
>     shoes ?
>     > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>     > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>     > See photo of RR.
>     > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>     normal
>     > floating ?
>     > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>     >
>     > All? suggestions appreciated
>     > rg
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
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>

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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Mar 30 21:40:17 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 20:40:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the
plates reversed as you did the first time.
As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this issue
( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what oil to use
in your OD !
I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to avoid
bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
I too will save your notes for next time...
Tkx
rg





On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s soundtrack
> and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust cover that I think
> proves this is the correct order of installation.
>
> Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:
>
> 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam and
> spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>
> 2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>
> 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the
> slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>
> 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the
> outside
>
> 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake
> pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)
>
> 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot
> on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would help
> if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to prevent
> the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might be possible
> to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks). Make sure the
> little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>
> 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around and
> under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the plates
> (see vid).
>
> 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>
> Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
> aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not
> only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber that
> should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
>
> Bob
>
> ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job every
> decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every time.
>
>
> On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>
> Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
> bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
> rg
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>> normal floating ?"
>>
>> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
>> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
>> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
>> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
>> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
>> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate
>> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables
>> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
>> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
>> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
>> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which
>> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
>> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
>> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>
>> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
>> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be
>> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
>> problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>> > BJ8 ph2.
>> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
>> adjustment.
>> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it
>> > is almost vertical.
>> > Background:
>> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign
>> > of any wear yet.
>> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
>> > tight.
>> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
>> > All OK so far.
>> >
>> > Here is the problem:
>> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
>> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
>> > However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
>> > not at  the same setting that started off with.
>> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
>> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>> > Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster
>> > back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
>> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>> >
>> > My thoughts :
>> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
>> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>> > See photo of RR.
>> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
>> > floating ?
>> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>> >
>> > All  suggestions appreciated
>> > rg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>
>>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 30 22:09:04 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 21:09:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net>

One more thing ...

I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the shoe 
standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are 
usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from 
Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into short 
pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and you can 
place a little grease on the end and expect it to stay there. I don't 
know a source, the tubing looks like it could be small fuel line, but 
it's only fiber with no rubber or other lining.

Bob

On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Bob,
> Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
> I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the 
> plates reversed as you did the first time.
> As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this 
> issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what 
> oil to use in your OD !
> I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to 
> avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
> I too will save your notes for next time...
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
>     soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the
>     dust cover that I think proves this is the correct order of
>     installation.
>
>     Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
>     frustration:
>
>     1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
>     cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>
>     2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>
>     3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff,
>     into the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>
>     4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate
>     from the outside
>
>     5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
>     handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
>     plate allows this)
>
>     6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into
>     the slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it
>     in; it would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its
>     actuated state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from
>     the flat plate (it might be possible to squeeze them together with
>     a large set of channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the
>     spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>
>     7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
>     around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge
>     sliding under the plates (see vid).
>
>     8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>
>     Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality
>     of aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from
>     Moss are not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of
>     a tough rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft
>     plastic).
>
>     Bob
>
>     ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this
>     job every decade or so, and have to start from scratch
>     procedure-wise every time.
>
>
>     On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>>     Yes thank you;? that sounds like a good explanation. As you say
>>     it is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle
>>     it again !
>>     rg
>>
>>     On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell
>>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How
>>         tight is
>>         normal floating ?"
>>
>>         I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor
>>         working on my
>>         BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual
>>         explaining
>>         installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog
>>         showing that
>>         the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed
>>         above the
>>         cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever).
>>         First, I
>>         installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the
>>         spring plate
>>         on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move
>>         freely--which enables
>>         the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust
>>         boot had
>>         nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the
>>         installation; i.e. the
>>         spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat
>>         plate
>>         (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and
>>         easily, which
>>         makes sense because there is less contact area, but the
>>         rubber boot,
>>         which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the
>>         flat plate
>>         and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>>         back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>
>>         Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
>>         otherwise
>>         the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the
>>         cylinder could be
>>         stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
>>         non-retracting
>>         problem.
>>
>>         Bob
>>
>>
>>         On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>>         > BJ8 ph2.
>>         > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake
>>         shoe adjustment.
>>         > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
>>         currently it
>>         > is almost vertical.
>>         > Background:
>>         > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi.
>>         Almost no sign
>>         > of any wear yet.
>>         > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>>         > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes
>>         are adjusted
>>         > tight.
>>         > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight
>>         brake drag.
>>         > All OK so far.
>>         >
>>         > Here is the problem:
>>         > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my
>>         hand it
>>         > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it
>>         should.
>>         > However? when released brakes do not fully retract, and
>>         shoes bind and
>>         > not at? the same setting that started off with.
>>         > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in
>>         not quite
>>         > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>>         > Shoes can be "reset"? to original setting by rattling the
>>         adjuster
>>         > back and forth in? the freeplay zone.
>>         > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe
>>         operation.
>>         >
>>         > My thoughts :
>>         > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of
>>         the shoes ?
>>         > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>>         > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>>         > See photo of RR.
>>         > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight
>>         is normal
>>         > floating ?
>>         > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>>         >
>>         > All? suggestions appreciated
>>         > rg
>>         >
>>         >
>>         >
>>         >
>>         >
>>         >
>>         >
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net>
>>
>

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Wed Mar 31 00:10:50 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 23:10:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?rear_brake_adjustment?=
Message-ID: <20210331061050.29383.qmail@server278.com>

just put new rear wheel cylinders on a BT7.  ordered the TRW ones which cost about 4 times as much as the cheaper ones.  
cylinders would not fit into the slots.  were about 50 thousands too thick.  called the supplier and they said the notes on 
their computer stated "some grinding and filing necessary".  for real?  anyway, i did that and must not have got one of them 
correct because it was not releasing fully after brake application and made a grinding noise.  had hub off a few times before 
i figured out the problem.  oiled slot and plates and moved the cylinder back and forth until it slid easily and now no 
hangups.

From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Mar 31 07:42:14 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 13:42:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes in General on the Healey List
References: <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284@mail.yahoo.com>

ListersThe discussion on brakes, specifically rear wheel cylinders, made me a bit curious as to how often the list has repeat discussions of some topics.?
There are so many topics that a real hard look at the "how often" fell by the way side.? What looking at the postings using a search tool brought up is that we cover lots of subjects and many repeatedly.?
On my antiquated email carrier, AOL, there is a search tab. I'm not familiar with other email providers, but AOL brought up "rear wheel cylinder" postings multiple times over the last 13 years..?
There is a plethora of info accumulated in one place regarding one subject, our Austin Healeys .??Appreciate Mark's efforts over the years keeping the list on line and the sharing of info by you folks.?All, the bestPerry
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Mar 31 08:39:14 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 10:39:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes in General on the Healey List
In-Reply-To: <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B53jJ4z+9zq-W8Dtz6UYOYO+tgFsJyP1dHnu2+=mTXbgw@mail.gmail.com>

Perry asked "how often the list has repeat discussions of some topics."
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Our failing memories aside, what else do we have to do but
reiterate what we think we know something about.
On a different note can I show you pictures of my grandchildren?

Best--Michael Oritt, BN1



On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 9:42 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Listers
> The discussion on brakes, specifically rear wheel cylinders, made me a bit
> curious as to how often the list has repeat discussions of some topics.
>
> There are so many topics that a real hard look at the "how often" fell by
> the way side.  What looking at the postings using a search tool brought up
> is that we cover lots of subjects and many repeatedly.
>
> On my antiquated email carrier, AOL, there is a search tab. I'm not
> familiar with other email providers, but AOL brought up "rear wheel
> cylinder" postings multiple times over the last 13 years..
>
> There is a plethora of info accumulated in one place regarding one
> subject, our Austin Healeys .
> Appreciate Mark's efforts over the years keeping the list on line and the
> sharing of info by you folks.
> All, the best
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Mar 31 08:44:50 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 10:44:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes in General on the Healey List
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B53jJ4z+9zq-W8Dtz6UYOYO+tgFsJyP1dHnu2+=mTXbgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1700422913.2464814.1617198134284@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B53jJ4z+9zq-W8Dtz6UYOYO+tgFsJyP1dHnu2+=mTXbgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <63df72be-3470-f971-e675-8bf7a67f84cd@earthlink.net>

If they're driving a Healey.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/31/21 10:39 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> Perry asked "how often the list has repeat discussions of some topics."
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Our failing memories?aside, what else do we have to do but 
> reiterate?what?we think we know something about.
> On a different note can I show you pictures of my grandchildren?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 9:42 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Listers
>     The discussion on brakes, specifically rear wheel cylinders, made
>     me a bit curious as to how often the list has repeat discussions
>     of some topics.
>
>     There are so many topics that a real hard look at the "how often"
>     fell by the way side.? What looking at the postings using a search
>     tool brought up is that we cover lots of subjects and many
>     repeatedly.
>
>     On my antiquated email carrier, AOL, there is a search tab. I'm
>     not familiar with other email providers, but AOL brought up "rear
>     wheel cylinder" postings multiple times over the last 13 years..
>
>     There is a plethora of info accumulated in one place regarding one
>     subject, our Austin Healeys .
>     Appreciate Mark's efforts over the years keeping the list on line
>     and the sharing of info by you folks.
>     All, the best
>     Perry
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Mar 31 09:47:11 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 08:47:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNZ44QW1Je7ZFboSzFGKsRt_SHAj+K04CGTPjFX6L5ojQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function is to
prevent metal to metal contact ?
So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ?
Will try to locate something suitable.

Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?
There seems to be 3 different techniques:

The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.

The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting to the
mid point.

The usual  method - centering  the shoes (by stomping on the brakes) then
adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped.

I tend to favour the last method .... ?

Tkx
rg





On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 9:09 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> One more thing ...
>
> I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the shoe
> standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are usually a
> gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from Tom's Import
> Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into short pieces. These
> fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and you can place a little
> grease on the end and expect it to stay there. I don't know a source, the
> tubing looks like it could be small fuel line, but it's only fiber with no
> rubber or other lining.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
>
> Bob,
> Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
> I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the
> plates reversed as you did the first time.
> As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this
> issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what oil
> to use in your OD !
> I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to avoid
> bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
> I too will save your notes for next time...
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s soundtrack
>> and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust cover that I think
>> proves this is the correct order of installation.
>>
>> Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:
>>
>> 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam
>> and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>>
>> 2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>>
>> 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the
>> slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>>
>> 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the
>> outside
>>
>> 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake
>> pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)
>>
>> 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot
>> on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would help
>> if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to prevent
>> the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might be possible
>> to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks). Make sure the
>> little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>>
>> 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around
>> and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the
>> plates (see vid).
>>
>> 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>>
>> Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
>> aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not
>> only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber that
>> should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
>> every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every
>> time.
>>
>>
>> On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>>
>> Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
>> bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
>> rg
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>>> normal floating ?"
>>>
>>> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
>>> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
>>> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
>>> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
>>> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
>>> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate
>>> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables
>>> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
>>> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
>>> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
>>> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which
>>> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
>>> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
>>> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>>> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>>
>>> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
>>> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be
>>> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>>> > BJ8 ph2.
>>> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
>>> adjustment.
>>> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it
>>> > is almost vertical.
>>> > Background:
>>> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign
>>> > of any wear yet.
>>> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>>> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
>>> > tight.
>>> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
>>> > All OK so far.
>>> >
>>> > Here is the problem:
>>> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
>>> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
>>> > However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
>>> > not at  the same setting that started off with.
>>> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
>>> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>>> > Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster
>>> > back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
>>> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>>> >
>>> > My thoughts :
>>> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
>>> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>>> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>>> > See photo of RR.
>>> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
>>> > floating ?
>>> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>>> >
>>> > All  suggestions appreciated
>>> > rg
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar 31 11:58:45 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 13:58:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNZ44QW1Je7ZFboSzFGKsRt_SHAj+K04CGTPjFX6L5ojQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNZ44QW1Je7ZFboSzFGKsRt_SHAj+K04CGTPjFX6L5ojQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK9MQdNC1fk6T4p=CqSeZQ=a-qFfDbxg86nXC-kYZj7Aw@mail.gmail.com>

Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory.  I've got
a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in place and are
still greasy.
I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just to
provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks.

M

On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bob,
> Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function is to
> prevent metal to metal contact ?
> So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ?
> Will try to locate something suitable.
>
> Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?
> There seems to be 3 different techniques:
>
> The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.
>
> The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting to
> the mid point.
>
> The usual  method - centering  the shoes (by stomping on the brakes) then
> adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped.
>
> I tend to favour the last method .... ?
>
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 9:09 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> One more thing ...
>>
>> I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the shoe
>> standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are usually a
>> gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from Tom's Import
>> Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into short pieces. These
>> fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and you can place a little
>> grease on the end and expect it to stay there. I don't know a source, the
>> tubing looks like it could be small fuel line, but it's only fiber with no
>> rubber or other lining.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>> Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
>> I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the
>> plates reversed as you did the first time.
>> As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this
>> issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what oil
>> to use in your OD !
>> I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to
>> avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
>> I too will save your notes for next time...
>> Tkx
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
>>> soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust cover
>>> that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.
>>>
>>> Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:
>>>
>>> 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam
>>> and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>>>
>>> 2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>>>
>>> 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the
>>> slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>>>
>>> 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the
>>> outside
>>>
>>> 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake
>>> pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)
>>>
>>> 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot
>>> on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would help
>>> if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to prevent
>>> the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might be possible
>>> to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks). Make sure the
>>> little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>>>
>>> 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around
>>> and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the
>>> plates (see vid).
>>>
>>> 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>>>
>>> Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
>>> aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not
>>> only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber that
>>> should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
>>> every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every
>>> time.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
>>> bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
>>> rg
>>>
>>> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
>>>> normal floating ?"
>>>>
>>>> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
>>>> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
>>>> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
>>>> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
>>>> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
>>>> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
>>>> plate
>>>> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
>>>> enables
>>>> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
>>>> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
>>>> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
>>>> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
>>>> which
>>>> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
>>>> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
>>>> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>>>> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>>>
>>>> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
>>>> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could
>>>> be
>>>> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
>>>> problem.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>>>> > BJ8 ph2.
>>>> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
>>>> adjustment.
>>>> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently
>>>> it
>>>> > is almost vertical.
>>>> > Background:
>>>> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no
>>>> sign
>>>> > of any wear yet.
>>>> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>>>> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
>>>> > tight.
>>>> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
>>>> > All OK so far.
>>>> >
>>>> > Here is the problem:
>>>> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
>>>> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
>>>> > However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind
>>>> and
>>>> > not at  the same setting that started off with.
>>>> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
>>>> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>>>> > Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster
>>>> > back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
>>>> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>>>> >
>>>> > My thoughts :
>>>> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes
>>>> ?
>>>> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>>>> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>>>> > See photo of RR.
>>>> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
>>>> > floating ?
>>>> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>>>> >
>>>> > All  suggestions appreciated
>>>> > rg
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Mar 31 12:18:48 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 18:18:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake steady posts
Message-ID: <5b285b5857bea075d313442fa9383e01eca026c6@webmail>

My understanding of the "steady" posts are just that...to keep the
shoes even in operation. They are very small and not too strong so
that I doubt they could affect much. However, as the book procedure
describes-"you lock up the shoes so they contact the
drum"-perpendicular to backplate-then move the steady post in until it
"contacts the shoe side"..this should keep the shoe from tilting and
not contacting the drum flat. Looks good on paper. 
I think that the shoes will naturally align and the posts are only a
safety measure. The early cars used lots of lube points-oil
everything. The felts have no rub quality, just a receptacle for
holding oil. The worst thing you could do is screw them way down and
cause scraping and drag. Midpoint would do no harm-even if they did
not touch the shoe. Most of the posts I have seen on backplates are
frozen in position anyway. Just my opinion Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys" 
To: "Roger Grace"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Wednesday March 31 2021 11:00:06AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment

 Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory.
I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in
place and are still greasy. I don't believe eliminating metat to metal
is the intent ... just to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate
squeaks. 
 M  
 On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys,  wrote:
   Bob, Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only
function is to prevent metal to metal contact ? So do the fibre tubes
protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ? Will try to locate
something suitable. 
 Wonder how you adjust these pegs ? There seems to be 3 different
techniques: 
 The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.

 The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting
to the mid point. 
 The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the brakes)
then adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped. 
 I tend to favour the last method .... ?

 Tkx rg

 On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 9:09 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  One more thing ...

 I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the
shoe standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are
usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from
Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into
short pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and
you can place a little grease on the end and expect it to stay there.
I don't know a source, the tubing looks like it could be small fuel
line, but it's only fiber with no rubber or other lining.

 Bob

On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
   Bob, Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star ! I have now
removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the plates
reversed as you did the first time.
 As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this
issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what
oil to use in your OD ! I tried to to get the cylinder out without
removing the hyd. pipe to avoid bleeding but not possible to get the
brake lever dislodged.
 I too will save your notes for next time... Tkx rg

 On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.

 Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
frustration:

 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on

 2) Insert cylinder into its slot

 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into
the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows

 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from
the outside

 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
plate allows this)

 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the
slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it
would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated
state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate
(it might be possible to squeeze them together with a large set of
channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate engage
the notches on the flat plate.

 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding
under the plates (see vid).

 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake
material)

 Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are
not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough
rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).

 Bob

 ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise
every time.

On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
   Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it
is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again
! rg

 On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
 normal floating ?"

 I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
 BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
 installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
 the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
 cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
 installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
plate
 on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
enables
 the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot
had
 nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e.
the
 spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
 (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
which
 makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
 which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
 and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
 back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.

 Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
otherwise
 the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could
be
 stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
non-retracting
 problem.

 Bob

 On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
 > BJ8 ph2.
 > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
adjustment.
 > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently
it
 > is almost vertical.
 > Background:
 > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no
sign
 > of any wear yet.
 > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
 > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are
adjusted
 > tight.
 > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake
drag.
 > All OK so far.
 >
 > Here is the problem:
 > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
 > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should. 
 > However when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind
and
 > not at the same setting that started off with.
 > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not
quite
 > the off position. Both wheels are the same
 > Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the adjuster
 > back and forth in the freeplay zone.
 > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
 >
 > My thoughts :
 > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the
shoes ?
 > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
 > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
 > See photo of RR.
 > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
normal
 > floating ?
 > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
 >
 > All suggestions appreciated
 > rg
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 31 20:02:28 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 10:02:28 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal?  This is on the
balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine.

I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike
substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled.  The o-rings
they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Alan
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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Mar 31 20:28:57 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 22:28:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2076317145.12567882.1617244137831.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Alan, 

The last thing you want is to suck in air after the carbs. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Alan Seigrist via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: "Healey list" <Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2021 9:02:28 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas 

Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal? This is on the balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine. 

I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled. The o-rings they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute. 

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 

Cheers, 

Alan 



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar 31 20:31:24 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 19:31:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK9MQdNC1fk6T4p=CqSeZQ=a-qFfDbxg86nXC-kYZj7Aw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <a6eda216-1303-3fbc-2fb3-66c407a2762d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNq75JGezS_yCBRGQa4vc46n9auknvR=zsgfhUNUrpUSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiNZ44QW1Je7ZFboSzFGKsRt_SHAj+K04CGTPjFX6L5ojQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LK9MQdNC1fk6T4p=CqSeZQ=a-qFfDbxg86nXC-kYZj7Aw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bea7425-6085-2258-eaae-3b9b0627ea0f@comcast.net>

I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, but only 
with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes aren't centered 
they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven.

The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not 
easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each other. If 
they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate.

Bob

On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory.? 
> I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in 
> place and are still greasy.
> I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just to 
> provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Bob,
>     Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function
>     is to prevent metal to metal contact ?
>     So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ?
>     Will try to locate something suitable.
>
>     Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?
>     There seems to be 3 different techniques:
>
>     The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.
>
>     The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then
>     setting to the mid point.
>
>     The usual? method - centering? the shoes (by stomping on the
>     brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes
>     are clamped.
>
>     I tend to favour the last method .... ?
>
>     Tkx
>     rg
>
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar 31 21:03:29 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2021 23:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJh==anuNz6XQsBQ0shqaMUQaynffTEDMj2eqirGEn98A@mail.gmail.com>

The original material seems to be tap gland packing string. I've
successfully used that which is available at plumbing supply stores.

M

On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 10:03 p.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal?  This is on the
> balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine.
>
> I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike
> substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled.  The o-rings
> they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute.
>
> Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Mar 31 21:44:38 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 11:44:38 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJh==anuNz6XQsBQ0shqaMUQaynffTEDMj2eqirGEn98A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkK46ybguLArtkOKB7BigFGgFwkK+wuHWW3=8Mf6-rd_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJh==anuNz6XQsBQ0shqaMUQaynffTEDMj2eqirGEn98A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKt8Cc3_xUe+JTA650etjYjk8=AYDzJiOPZZ6ZsJ-NVpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

So the gland packing can handle the heat and fuel? I see that they now sell
gland packing with PTFE, so that's probably the stuff to get.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:03 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> The original material seems to be tap gland packing string. I've
> successfully used that which is available at plumbing supply stores.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 10:03 p.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal?  This is on the
>> balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine.
>>
>> I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike
>> substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled.  The o-rings
>> they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute.
>>
>> Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Mar 30 15:32:44 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2021 17:32:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
In-Reply-To: <0ecc01d725aa$f7fa19f0$e7ee4dd0$@gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOfnGyg-H5ezNGoUNEb5Y+4Ry3Ar_jgAfo42nm9crm-pA@mail.gmail.com>
 <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiO18mPuQ1qBzKjDK0yNDXFjPYvAtFugh=gUPd5bPMJfSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <5417F2C2-AC53-4BEB-8BF1-43DD6EC5DC12@hxcore.ol>
 <0ecc01d725aa$f7fa19f0$e7ee4dd0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLrz9uq-xjO1v4tsJTSRVDKDzoFZOtfnVc-QPMym8NXwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Dangerous combination  ... Tamiami Trail and a Lincoln ??

On Tue., Mar. 30, 2021, 5:24 p.m. , <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> While my BJ8 was still on stands after installing the engine and
> transmission, I took the rear brakes apart and installed new cylinders and
> shoes, springs etc.  It was a great deal of pushing and shoving to get the
> first one apart so I could clean and oil those items which would be
> moving.  Still, I had to take it apart and put it back together 3 times
> before the system looked and worked good.  The left rear brake was easier
> and took only 2 assemblies to get it right.  Then came the installation of
> the emergency brake. Again 2-3 times before it was adjusted and operating.
>
>
>
> Fast forward to last week when turning on to the Tamiami Trail and
> accelerating up to the 45 mph speed limit in very little traffic I
> approached a cross access of the 4 lane divided highway and carefully
> watched 2 cars waiting to cross in front of me when the big old Lincoln
> Town Car pulled out in front of me.  It was a good test of the brakes.  All
> 4 activated at the same time, helped by my new Michelin tires we stopped a
> full car length away from the passenger side doors.  I could see his Mrs.
> going into shock because the driver had come to a complete stop broadside
> in front of us.
>
>
>
> Before all this work on the brakes, my BJ8 rear wheels for years would
> activate independently as a result the car would slide sideways.
>
>
>
> Keep working on the brakes as the life you save might be your own.
>
>
>
> Best regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold
> Manifold via Healeys
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 30, 2021 4:18 PM
> *To:* Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>; Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
>
>
>
> Does this help? Note the difference between item 2 and 4.
>
>
>
> Harold Manifold
>
>
>
> *From: *Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, March 30, 2021 9:54 AM
> *To: *Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
>
>
>
> Yes thank you;  that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is a
> bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
>
> rg
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
> normal floating ?"
>
> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring plate
> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which enables
> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot had
> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e. the
> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily, which
> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>
> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily; otherwise
> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could be
> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your non-retracting
> problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> > BJ8 ph2.
> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe adjustment.
> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently it
> > is almost vertical.
> > Background:
> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no sign
> > of any wear yet.
> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are adjusted
> > tight.
> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
> > All OK so far.
> >
> > Here is the problem:
> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
> > However  when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind and
> > not at  the same setting that started off with.
> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not quite
> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
> > Shoes can be "reset"  to original setting by rattling the adjuster
> > back and forth in  the freeplay zone.
> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
> >
> > My thoughts :
> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the shoes ?
> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> > See photo of RR.
> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is normal
> > floating ?
> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
> >
> > All  suggestions appreciated
> > rg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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