[Healeys] Overdrive Setting Lever O-Ring

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Wed Jun 30 10:32:15 MDT 2021 

Jean, Sterling must have caught on to the demand; their minimum order 
was 'only' 20 when I bought. Sterling is a small, family-run operation, 
I believe they are Russian immigrants (at least, the matriarch sounds 
like it). I ended up chatting with the owner for over a half-hour; his 
son is a charter jet pilot, and he loves to talk about him ;).  They 
were pretty casual, I tried to pay immediately with a CC but, while the 
company is back east somewhere their 'billing department' is in 
Florida--apparently run by one of their sons--and I didn't get an 
invoice for several months. I offered some to Magnus Karlsson, who I 
believe is in Sweden (and a noted Healey restorer), but made the mistake 
of sending them in a small shipping envelope; Magnus said they were held 
for ransom in Swedish customs and he had to pay the equivalent of $20 or 
so to rescue them.


On 6/29/2021 10:30 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys wrote:
>
> In the January/February 2019 issue of the AHCUSA Magazine, Roger 
> Moment described that originally on the overdrive for the 3 speed 
> gearbox, the valve operating shaft used seals, not “O” rings. They 
> were replaced by “O” rings at some point during the production right 
> through the end of the BJ8. Roger was told by a mechanic about a 4 
> edge ring substitute available that has been found more reliable and 
> durable than the “O” rings. They are called Buna Quad Seals, available 
> from Sterling Seal and Supply, part # Q-109-7470. The problem is that 
> they sell in quantity of 100. I purchased 100 of them and used a pair 
> immediately and they have proven to be very good so far. Many friends 
> have used them as well with good results, I still have about 40 if 
> someone needs any.
>
> This is what they look like.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *June 29, 2021 8:50 PM
> *To: *Bluehealey <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com>; Steven Kingsbury 
> <mailto:airtightproductions at icloud.com>
> *Cc: *Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Setting Lever O-Ring
>
> I have an update. The OD Setting Lever is off but it put up a good 
> fight. I tried a number of different methods but in the end a big 
> hammer and stubby punch the right diameter worked. I first tried a 
> 3/32 pin punch and smaller hammer but the punch bent without moving 
> the pin. Next attempt was a home made punch from a nail with a short 
> point and a bigger hammer. Again the point just bent and deformed. I 
> rigged up a c-clamp and tried to press the pin out. Hard to keep 
> straight and the pressing pin bent again. I was running out of ideas 
> and discovered a T10 Torx bit is the right diameter and is hardened 
> and stubby. I used a T10 Torx bit and extension from a cheap set and 
> the biggest hammer I had and was successful.
>
> I can confirm the pin is definitely a taper pin. The OE part number 
> and description is “TPS0405     Pin - taper - lever to shaft”. 
> Measuring the pin I removed it is a standard taper pin size 3/0, large 
> end diameter 0.125”. The length is 5/8”. Both the holes in the shaft 
> and lever are tapered with the big end towards the bottom of the 
> transmission. There is another taper pin the same size on the shaft 
> inside the overdrive so there is no way around removing taper pins to 
> change the seal. I checked a BT7 and BJ8 parts list and both list 
> TPS0405 as the pins. It looks like this is what was used on all Healey 
> OD units.
>
> My transmission has an o-ring on the shaft which looks to be in good 
> shape but still leaked. Others on this forum pointed out originally 
> there was a lip seal and I will replace the o-ring with the proper lip 
> seal.
>
> On the positive side the seal can be replaced without dismantling the 
> OD and with the transmission still in the car.
>
> Thanks for all your tips and suggestions.
>
> Harold
>
> *From: *Bluehealey via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 29, 2021 11:38 AM
> *To: *Steven Kingsbury <mailto:airtightproductions at icloud.com>
> *Cc: *Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Setting Lever O-Ring
>
> The hole is first drilled with the small end size then reamed with a 
> tapered reamer to suit the pin.
>
> Alan - from my iPad
>
>     On 29 Jun 2021, at 19:23, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     
>
>     The pin I removed was definitely tapered. As for drilling a
>     tapered hole, I have no idea, but maybe one side of the lever was
>     drilled one size and the other side a smaller size with the shaft
>     going through the center drilled to a specific size.
>
>
>     On June 29, 2021 at 11:02 AM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
>     wrote:
>
>         It's not tapered. How does one drill a tapered hole through?
>
>         On 6/29/2021 11:42 AM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
>
>             I also have the same leak. Once you find out the location
>             of the big end of the tapered pin, could you let me know?
>             Mine is buried in a few coats of paint.
>
>             Elton
>
>             On Mon, Jun 28, 2021 at 2:42 PM Harold Manifold via
>             Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>             <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>                 Hello,
>
>                 I have a leak from the O-Ring behind the Setting lever
>                 on the overdrive. I know the O-Ring can be replaced
>                 without disassembling the overdrive unit once the
>                 setting lever is removed. The setting lever on my
>                 overdrive is held inplace with a solid push pin.
>                 Likely the original pin. I have tried to remove the
>                 pin with the right sized punch but it doesn’t budge.
>
>                 Before I break something, does anyone know what type
>                 of pin was likely used? Is it a straight pin or a
>                 tapered pin? If it is tapered pin any tips on figuring
>                 out which is the big end. There is always drilling but
>                 not the easiest place to get at.
>
>                 Thanks…. Harold
>
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