[Healeys] Electric Issue

[gradea1 at charter.net]

You're welcome Price, glad that fixed the issue. As far as the
voltmeter is concerned, it measures battery voltage whereas the
ammeter tells battery, generator condition. If you have changed the
car to negative ground and added an alternator, the voltmeter is a
good option. However, if the car is still Positive ground an ammeter
might be more useful.
To hook up the voltmeter, as you requested, put the green wire to the
on side of the ignition key and the black wire to a good body ground.
The red wire is for the illumination and you should splice it on to
the panel lights (R/W) wire. If the case of the meter and bulb socket
are metal, the bulbholder serves as ground. If its plastic you should
add an additional ground wire. If the gauge reads backwards, swap the
leads. Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "R. Lindsay" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"
Sent: Monday June 14 2021 4:10:32PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue

 Thank you Hank! Your advice is right on. I found a black wire,
disconnected and hiding behind the tach. Connected the black wire,
replaced the two burned wires and everything now works. The volt meter
still but maybe it’s fried. Is there a way to test it? 
 Thanks again!!

Price Lindsay 
 Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com 
 Sent from my iPhone  
On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:

   Price- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring.
The black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The
red/white is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional
black wire which is for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R
(no black). The way it is currently wired creates a short to the
battery-thus your smoke and burned wires. 
 Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE
that you know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a
knife break in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider
replacing those burned wires. Then check the wiring of the voltmeter
and assemble as Kees has described. Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "R. Lindsay via
Healeys"
 To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"
 Cc:
 Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue

 Thanks Kees. 
 I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the
right terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting
putting the green and black wires together on a terminal? 
 On the wiring diagram, there are “triangles” where the black
wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears
the grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the
panel switch and the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing
with the wires yesterday I produced a little “smoke” and found the
insulation on red wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch,
and the two red/white wires between the tach and panel switch were
melted.  
 It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the
panel switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down
with the lights and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel
switch is on but the lights are off).  
 What do you think?

Price Lindsay 
 Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com 
 Sent from my iPhone  
On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs  wrote:

    

	Hi Price,

	If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will
have all sorts of problems.

	The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance),
however if you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high
resistance) no current can pass to operate the rest of the system.

	You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter.
The plus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or
ignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negative side is
connected to any suitable earth point.

	Kees Oudesluijs

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