[Healeys] Electric Issue

gradea1 at charter.net gradea1 at charter.net
Mon Jun 14 11:42:24 MDT 2021


Price- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. The
black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The
red/white is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional
black wire which is for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R
(no black). The way it is currently wired creates a short to the
battery-thus your smoke and burned wires.
Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE
that you know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a
knife break in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider
replacing those burned wires. Then check the wiring of the voltmeter
and assemble as Kees has described. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "R. Lindsay via
Healeys" 
To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue

 Thanks Kees. 
 I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the
right terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting
putting the green and black wires together on a terminal? 
 On the wiring diagram, there are “triangles” where the black
wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears
the grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the
panel switch and the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing
with the wires yesterday I produced a little “smoke” and found the
insulation on red wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch,
and the two red/white wires between the tach and panel switch were
melted.  
 It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the
panel switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down
with the lights and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel
switch is on but the lights are off).  
 What do you think?

Price Lindsay 
 Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com 
 Sent from my iPhone  
On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs  wrote:

    

	Hi Price,

	If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will
have all sorts of problems.

	The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance),
however if you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high
resistance) no current can pass to operate the rest of the system.

	You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter.
The plus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or
ignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negative side is
connected to any suitable earth point.

	Kees Oudesluijs

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