From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 1 10:10:56 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 17:10:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> John,If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel.Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 1 10:58:16 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 09:58:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have to do. If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > John, > If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to > try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if > the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is > above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing > associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak > will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include the > rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube especially > if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel in the > filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small enough, > there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. You might > try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level about 3/4 full > & see if you can still smell fuel. > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Bob Haskell' ; > 'Healey List' > Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. > It seems to be glued in place. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 1 11:05:36 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 10:05:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: ps. Tonopah is a MAJOR speed trap. We once filled-up at the Shell station on the south side of town next to a couple in an SUV. They didn't get two blocks down the street before they got pulled-over (they were mixed-race, which may or may not have had something to do with it). On 1/1/2021 9:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's > tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm > facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 > miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain > range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for > a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and > once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some > regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few > gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have > to do. > > If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green > threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of > fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how > well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. > > > On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >> John, >> If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to >> try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if >> the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is >> above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing >> associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak >> will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include >> the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube >> especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel >> in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small >> enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. >> You might try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level >> about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. >> Gary Hodson >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: John Spaur >> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Bob Haskell' ; >> 'Healey List' >> Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak >> >> Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the >> sleeve. >> It seems to be glued in place. >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Fri Jan 1 11:51:02 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 18:51:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9b17db98-f3f3-9301-1d9d-758c3fa43569@summaventures.com> Happy New Year, Listers! Peter On 31/12/2020 19:59, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > ???Happy New Year to all on the list! I truly hope 2021 is a much better > year for all and I thought I might drink some Tequila tonight, dance > naked around a fire and scare the living day lights out of any nasty > spirits thinking of coming in to the new year! I feel it's the least I > can do for mankind everywhere. > ???Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand > 2021! Enjoy! > Steven > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Jan 1 13:18:25 2021 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 12:18:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6e07b$44912350$cdb369f0$@cox.net> Got a speeding ticket there in October 2019 coming back from Tahoe. UGH From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:06 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak ps. Tonopah is a MAJOR speed trap. We once filled-up at the Shell station on the south side of town next to a couple in an SUV. They didn't get two blocks down the street before they got pulled-over (they were mixed-race, which may or may not have had something to do with it). On 1/1/2021 9:58 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have to do. If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: John, If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 1 18:37:58 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 17:37:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <295315497.6152104.1609470514753@mail.yahoo.com> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <295315497.6152104.1609470514753@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6e0a7$e70541d0$b50fc570$@sbcglobal.net> No, not leaking between the gasket and the tank. I have a Moss rubber type gasket in place for eight years, no sealant and no leak. John Spaur From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 7:09 PM To: John Spaur ; rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak If it is coming through the gasket between the unit and the tank, I used Hallmark. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Dec 31, 2020 at 6:34 PM, John Spaur > wrote: Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -----Original Message----- From: rfbegani at gmail.com [mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com ] Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 5:59 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' >; 'John Spaur' >; 'Healey List' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Bob: I have installed a silicone gasket and still fuel enters the boot. What is this white plastic sleeve? Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 8:15 PM To: John Spaur >; 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak John, If you take the nuts and the heavy paper insulation off the screw, you'll see the screw goes through a white plastic sleeve that isolates the screw from the body of the sending unit. The sleeve also holds the ground wire in place - there's a groove along the bottom of the hole in the body that the ground wire sits in. The sleeve provides the seal. Don't twist the screw - the lead to the wound resistor is soldered to the screw. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/31/20 7:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 1 18:50:31 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 17:50:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000d01d6e0a9$aea0ffd0$0be2ff70$@sbcglobal.net> I used Loctite eight years ago and it seems to have held up well. I also used special screws with a built in gasket. Not sure if the link below is where I bought them but they work well. I may have found them at the Olander Company. https://www.biscoind.com/zago-ms3212-31/p?idsku=30583 &gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMTo9Y387QIVHAJMCh3gywYVEAQYAyABEgK1OPD_BwE From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 9:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have to do. If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: John, If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1331062-1200-auto.webp Type: application/octet-stream Size: 58054 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sat Jan 2 09:24:03 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 11:24:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <000d01d6e0a9$aea0ffd0$0be2ff70$@sbcglobal.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> <000d01d6e0a9$aea0ffd0$0be2ff70$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <049601d6e123$afc5a940$0f50fbc0$@gmail.com> Hi Listners: 10-32X3/8 PHILLIPS PAN HEAD SEAL SCREW WITH SILICONE O-RING Those screws are no longer available at that site, however, Amazon has them at a higher price. I will try them along with Loctite to see if it will stop the leakage as I Installed the silicone gasket last year. Meanwhile, will try to remember not to fill to the top of the tank. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 8:51 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak I used Loctite eight years ago and it seems to have held up well. I also used special screws with a built in gasket. Not sure if the link below is where I bought them but they work well. I may have found them at the Olander Company. https://www.biscoind.com/zago-ms3212-31/p?idsku=30583 &gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMTo9Y387QIVHAJMCh3gywYVEAQYAyABEgK1OPD_BwE From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 9:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have to do. If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: John, If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 09:29:37 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 08:29:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <049601d6e123$afc5a940$0f50fbc0$@gmail.com> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> <000d01d6e0a9$aea0ffd0$0be2ff70$@sbcglobal.net> <049601d6e123$afc5a940$0f50fbc0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I got an aftermarket fuel tank for my BN2 from the guy in SoCal who, AFAIK, has since retired. The tank overall was OK quality, but the sender flange was slightly warped, and I couldn't get a good seal and, yes, I tried the silicone, ribbed-for-pleasure seal, which leaked. I ended up stacking two cork O-rings--longer screws required--that I had put a thin smear of the Permatex sealant I recommended earlier on (all sides). Job done, as Edd would say. On 1/2/2021 8:24 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Hi Listners: > > 10-32X3/8 PHILLIPS PAN HEAD SEAL SCREW WITH SILICONE O-RING > > Those screws are no longer available at that site, however, Amazon has > them at a higher price.? I will try them along with Loctite to see if > it will stop the leakage as I Installed the silicone gasket last year. > ?Meanwhile, will try to remember not to fill to the top of the tank. > > Bob Begani > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *John Spaur > *Sent:* Friday, January 1, 2021 8:51 PM > *To:* 'Bob Spidell' > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > I used Loctite eight years ago and it seems to have held up well. I > also used special screws with a built in gasket. Not sure if the link > below is where I bought them but they work well. I may have found them > at the Olander Company. > > https://www.biscoind.com/zago-ms3212-31/p?idsku=30583&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMTo9Y387QIVHAJMCh3gywYVEAQYAyABEgK1OPD_BwE > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, January 1, 2021 9:58 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's > tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm > facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 > miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain > range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for > a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and > once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some > regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few > gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have > to do. > > If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green > threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of > fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how > well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. > > On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > John, > > If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic > to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already > know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve > then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every > thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any > small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would > also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel > filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is > standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the > leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only > vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days > with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > > To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; 'Bob Haskell' > ; > 'Healey List' > Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the > sleeve. > It seems to be glued in place. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jan 2 12:46:22 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 19:46:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners Message-ID: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I know exactly where I should be. Should be! However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through the floor to the outside. I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in case, :- What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which should be coming up from below? And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild guess? Or bigger? See attached. And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices over here, they seem to be made of platinum. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Seats.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2302957 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sgerow2 at gmail.com Sat Jan 2 14:10:49 2021 From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 13:10:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Message-ID: I've been using Hylomar as a sealant since 2007 with no leaks. Using the viton gasket and bonded viton sealing washers. -- *Steve Gerow* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 2 14:29:57 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 13:29:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <5256D21F1513493D9A2A02598F6895A1@AllInOne> Simon, I have spent far too much time taking the seat runners apart repairing the threads. The original is 1/4" x 28 and any replacement fasteners needs to be ground down so the head doesn't interfere with slide mechanism. In my opinion it is critical to use the Tee Nuts and the 14ga stiffener. These help strengthen the floor boards and secure the seat. Healeys don't have much crash protection as it is but it will enhance safety if the seat doesn't come loose in an accident. Your seat runners may have been altered to a point where they can't be restored. My solution was to cut off the threaded portion from the bottom and then drill and tap the remaining flat head welded to the track to 1/4" x 28. I ground down a 1/4" grade 5 bolt and threaded through the tapped hole and put epoxy under the head. If I had to do this again I would buy new tracks from AH Spares. Their quality is excellent and they cost about $65. AH Spares has the Tee Nuts as well. The seat track assembly is confusing but here is the original sequence from the bottom up: Tee Nut Spring Washer Flat Washer Floor Board Black Felt Paper Jute 14 ga Metal Stiffener Wood Packing Seat Track Good luck ... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 11:46 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I know exactly where I should be. Should be! However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through the floor to the outside. I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in case, :- What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which should be coming up from below? And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild guess? Or bigger? See attached. And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices over here, they seem to be made of platinum. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 2 15:25:10 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 17:25:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <75a4549d-13fc-ed6c-5407-3078c64f0ebc@earthlink.net> Simon, The tee nuts - 9/16" hex.? The turned down section is 3/8" diameter, 3/8" tall.? 1/4-28 internal threads.? 5/8" overall length. In the US, Moss Motors price is $3 each. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/2/21 2:46 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I > know exactly where I should be. Should be! > > However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find > that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size > is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass > through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through > the floor to the outside. > > I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in > case, :- > > What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which > should be coming up from below? > > And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, > through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild > guess? Or bigger? > > See attached. > > And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which > they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices > over here, they seem to be made of platinum. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 2 15:45:29 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 17:45:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <049601d6e123$afc5a940$0f50fbc0$@gmail.com> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> <1427420157.4748485.1609521056490@mail.yahoo.com> <000d01d6e0a9$aea0ffd0$0be2ff70$@sbcglobal.net> <049601d6e123$afc5a940$0f50fbc0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6759c1e5-59c5-4a38-2d8f-30b41b41361b@earthlink.net> digikey.com also has them. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/apm-hexseal/R10-32X3-8-2701/1159374 Pack of 6 is $4.32 and $8 shipping FedEx 2 day.? 12 is $7.20 Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/2/21 11:24 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Hi Listners: > > 10-32X3/8 PHILLIPS PAN HEAD SEAL SCREW WITH SILICONE O-RING > > Those screws are no longer available at that site, however, Amazon has > them at a higher price.? I will try them along with Loctite to see if > it will stop the leakage as I Installed the silicone gasket last year. > ?Meanwhile, will try to remember not to fill to the top of the tank. > > Bob Begani > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *John Spaur > *Sent:* Friday, January 1, 2021 8:51 PM > *To:* 'Bob Spidell' > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > I used Loctite eight years ago and it seems to have held up well. I > also used special screws with a built in gasket. Not sure if the link > below is where I bought them but they work well. I may have found them > at the Olander Company. > > https://www.biscoind.com/zago-ms3212-31/p?idsku=30583&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMTo9Y387QIVHAJMCh3gywYVEAQYAyABEgK1OPD_BwE > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, January 1, 2021 9:58 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > FWIW, I occasionally--these days, previously often--filled my BJ8's > tank within a couple inches of the filler hole; esp. when I know I'm > facing a long stretch with no gas stations. For example, it's over 200 > miles from Caliente, NV to Tonopah, NV with a medium-sized mountain > range in between and no gas. I once shut off my engine and coasted for > a few miles on the downslope when I was running low into Tonopah; and > once, some Jeepers arrived at Rachel, NV--which at one time had some > regular--begging for gas and offering to 'pay anything' for a few > gallons. I'm not recommending the practice, but you do what you have > to do. > > If the smell is indeed coming through the sleeve, I believe green > threadlocker ('Locktite') is meant to be used post-installation of > fasteners, as it supposedly weeps into tiny gaps. I have no idea how > well it would hold up to today's pseudo-gasoline, though. > > On 1/1/2021 9:10 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > John, > > If the white plastic sleeve is is glued in place it is problematic > to try to remove it a try to seal it. As you probably already > know, if the fuel is reaching the elevation of the plastic sleeve > then it is above the top of the fuel tank & that means that every > thing associated with the tank is under positive pressure. Any > small leak will be apparent due to the smell of fuel. That would > also include the rubber sleeve connecting the tank to the fuel > filler tube especially if the fuel tank is filled so that there is > standing fuel in the filler tube & then the car is parked. If the > leak is small enough, there might not be any fuel visible, only > vapor & the smell. You might try parking the car for a few days > with the fuel level about 3/4 full & see if you can still smell fuel. > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > > To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; 'Bob Haskell' > ; > 'Healey List' > Sent: Thu, Dec 31, 2020 8:28 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak > > Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the > sleeve. > It seems to be glued in place. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 15:55:39 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 14:55:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel Message-ID: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?? And how much trouble to put it back?? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 18:27:32 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 17:27:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > > How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?? And how > much trouble to put it back?? I just want it out of the way temporarily. > > Mike > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sat Jan 2 18:59:39 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 01:59:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1212850227.1481429.1609639179406@mail.yahoo.com> I have to agree with Bob. ? You say you want the steering wheel out of the way. ?Well I can't imagine that a steering wheel out of your way could make any task so easy that it is worth pulling the steering wheel (and traficator!))Keith -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jan 2, 2021 8:27 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?? And how much trouble to put it back?? I just want it out of the way temporarily.? Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 19:23:52 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 18:23:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <1212850227.1481429.1609639179406@mail.yahoo.com> References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <1212850227.1481429.1609639179406@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Correction: Now that I've thought about it, you don't have to remove the stator; just disconnect the harness in front of the box and draw it out. Still a hassle getting it back in. On 1/2/2021 5:59 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > I have to agree with Bob. ? You say you want the steering wheel out of > the way. ?Well I can't imagine that a steering wheel out of your way > could make any task so easy that it is worth pulling the steering > wheel (and traficator!)) > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Jan 2, 2021 8:27 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel > > The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The > trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual > 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of > the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have > enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube > out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All > things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the > steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you > loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, > non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. > > Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back > through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. > > Bob > > On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?? And how > much trouble to put it back?? I just want it out of the way temporarily. > Mike > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 19:23:59 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 18:23:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <1212850227.1481429.1609639179406@mail.yahoo.com> References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <1212850227.1481429.1609639179406@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <45852d7b-925c-b18a-850d-312e083f93b8@comcast.net> That's what I'm reading!? I was hoping for something easier.? I'll leave it on and just use some magic words.? Thanks to all. Mike On 1/2/2021 5:59 PM, llennep--- via Healeys wrote: > I have to agree with Bob. ? You say you want the steering wheel out of > the way. ?Well I can't imagine that a steering wheel out of your way > could make any task so easy that it is worth pulling the steering > wheel (and traficator!)) > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Jan 2, 2021 8:27 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel > > The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The > trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual > 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of > the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have > enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube > out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All > things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the > steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you > loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, > non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. > > Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back > through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. > > Bob > > On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?? And how > much trouble to put it back?? I just want it out of the way temporarily. > Mike > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Jan 2 19:31:19 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 02:31:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> References: , <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> Message-ID: Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off. I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. Rich ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 2 22:09:53 2021 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 21:09:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: , <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> Message-ID: <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I'm ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It's messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off. I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. Rich _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 10:36:57 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 12:36:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." ---------------------------------------------------------- I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing them as I did. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele wrote: > If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to > plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I?m ready to > run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, > tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through > the stator, and pull them through. It?s messy. Unless you REALLY need to > remove the wheel, just work around it. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard > Kahn > *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM > *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel > > > > Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You > can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you > may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after > you get the trafficator off. > > I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just > "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note > which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. > > > > Rich > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > > *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel > > > > The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, > which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to > disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the > movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the > harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the > wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think > Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most > of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing > with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to > evaporate. > > Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back > through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. > > Bob > > On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: > > How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how > much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. > > Mike > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 3 10:38:49 2021 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 09:38:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> References: , <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <09b901d6e1f7$4ba20790$e2e616b0$@roadrunner.com> To clarify, I intended to say if you pull the stator out of the steering box, you can plug the hole with a rubber stopper. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 9:10 PM To: 'Richard Kahn' ; 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I'm ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It's messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM To: Bob Spidell >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off. I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. Rich _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 10:57:21 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 12:57:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail Message-ID: I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different types of -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210103_125404.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 583652 bytes Desc: not available URL: From drtommitch at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 10:57:52 2021 From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 12:57:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of expanding the tube. I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator. Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt Tom Dr. Tom Mitchell On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back > through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." > ---------------------------------------------------------- > I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition > of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new > ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. > This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the > wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and > renewing them as I did. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele > wrote: > >> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to >> plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I?m ready to >> run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, >> tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through >> the stator, and pull them through. It?s messy. Unless you REALLY need to >> remove the wheel, just work around it. >> >> >> >> Bruce Steele >> >> Brea, CA >> >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard >> Kahn >> *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM >> *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >> >> >> >> Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. >> You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, >> you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected >> after you get the trafficator off. >> >> I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just >> "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note >> which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. >> >> >> >> Rich >> ------------------------------ >> >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >> Spidell >> *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM >> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >> >> >> >> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, >> which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to >> disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the >> movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the >> harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the >> wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think >> Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most >> of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing >> with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to >> evaporate. >> >> Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back >> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: >> >> How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how >> much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. >> >> Mike >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:08:06 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:08:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail Message-ID: I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. [image: image.png] There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that there are 2 different shapes. Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:08:30 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:08:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I also found it easier to pull a light messenger line up through the stator via a fish tape from the top rather than trying to manipulate the tape from the bottom end. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:58 PM Tom Mitchell wrote: > One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy > and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of > expanding the tube. > I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't > notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator. > Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt > > Tom > > Dr. Tom Mitchell > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt > wrote: > >> "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back >> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." >> ---------------------------------------------------------- >> I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition >> of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new >> ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. >> This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the >> wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and >> renewing them as I did. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> >> On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele >> wrote: >> >>> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to >>> plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I?m ready to >>> run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, >>> tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through >>> the stator, and pull them through. It?s messy. Unless you REALLY need to >>> remove the wheel, just work around it. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bruce Steele >>> >>> Brea, CA >>> >>> 1960 BN7 >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard >>> Kahn >>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM >>> *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >>> >>> >>> >>> Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. >>> You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, >>> you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected >>> after you get the trafficator off. >>> >>> I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just >>> "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note >>> which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rich >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >>> Spidell >>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >>> >>> >>> >>> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, >>> which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to >>> disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the >>> movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the >>> harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the >>> wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think >>> Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most >>> of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing >>> with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to >>> evaporate. >>> >>> Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back >>> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: >>> >>> How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how >>> much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:16:57 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 10:16:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Supply chain issues Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 10:12 AM Michael Salter wrote: > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special > washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > [image: image.png] > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that > there are 2 different shapes. > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this > is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very > original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > M > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Jan 3 11:22:25 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 18:22:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2015287316.6609930.1609698145199@mail.yahoo.com> These resemble washers used for the oil pan. ?Maybe some got mixed in for the timing chain cover?? -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2021 1:08 pm Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover.There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that there are 2 different shapes. Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other.Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 3 11:22:49 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 18:22:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <419988546.6635923.1609698169181@mail.yahoo.com> Michael Two different part numbers listed in the 100 Six service parts list. 2K7440 with 7 per vehicle and 2K5197 with 5 per vehicle. Perry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2021 1:08 pm Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that there are 2 different shapes. Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:27:55 2021 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:27:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) Thanks -skip- On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter wrote: > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different types > of > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:30:22 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:30:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Staggered bullets, degreased and wrapped tightly in 1 or 2 layers of masking tape will easily slide down a clean stator tube from the top. M On Sun., Jan. 3, 2021, 1:09 p.m. Tom Mitchell, wrote: > One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy > and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of > expanding the tube. > I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't > notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator. > Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt > > Tom > > Dr. Tom Mitchell > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt > wrote: > >> "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back >> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." >> ---------------------------------------------------------- >> I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition >> of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new >> ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. >> This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the >> wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and >> renewing them as I did. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> >> On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele >> wrote: >> >>> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to >>> plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I?m ready to >>> run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, >>> tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through >>> the stator, and pull them through. It?s messy. Unless you REALLY need to >>> remove the wheel, just work around it. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bruce Steele >>> >>> Brea, CA >>> >>> 1960 BN7 >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard >>> Kahn >>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM >>> *To:* Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >>> >>> >>> >>> Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. >>> You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, >>> you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected >>> after you get the trafficator off. >>> >>> I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just >>> "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note >>> which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rich >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >>> Spidell >>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel >>> >>> >>> >>> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, >>> which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to >>> disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the >>> movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the >>> harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the >>> wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think >>> Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most >>> of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing >>> with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to >>> evaporate. >>> >>> Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back >>> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: >>> >>> How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how >>> much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 11:35:26 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:35:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What Skip said, plus notice the similarities/differences in surface corrosion. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of the > original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular washers that have > been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do you see the same > disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses those types of narrow > channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > >> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different >> types of >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun Jan 3 11:40:55 2021 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:40:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with the 5 washers,? perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others go into the block JAV On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these > "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > image.png > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is > that there are 2 different shapes. > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but > this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on > very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Jan 3 11:46:56 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 10:46:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] wheel In-Reply-To: References: <11eee303-62c1-10c0-0c99-ed6228d3b126@comcast.net> <086b01d6e18e$ac13e940$043bbbc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <40C5E8EE9C3E43E0B388B09C9515BE30@AllInOne> Michael, It is hard to tell from your picture if the hole is the same size. As I am sure you already know the timing cover has 7 x 2K7440 for a 5/16" bolt and 5 x 2K5197 for a 1/4" bolt. The sump has 25 x 2K5197. It could be the 2K5197's were drilled out to 5/16" to replace missing 2K7440's either at the factory or by a previous engine builder. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 10:30 AM To: Tom Mitchell Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel Staggered bullets, degreased and wrapped tightly in 1 or 2 layers of masking tape will easily slide down a clean stator tube from the top. M On Sun., Jan. 3, 2021, 1:09 p.m. Tom Mitchell, wrote: One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of expanding the tube. I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator. Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt Tom Dr. Tom Mitchell On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt wrote: "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." ---------------------------------------------------------- I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing them as I did. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele wrote: If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I'm ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It's messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off. I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. Rich _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 3 11:48:03 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 18:48:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1487935511.6632728.1609699684003@mail.yahoo.com> 12 bolts in the timing cover. There are two different sized bolts, 5 that appear to be 1/4 inch and 7 that are 5/16 inch. Is size the issue here. No sly remarks! P -----Original Message----- From: John Vrugtman To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2021 1:40 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with the 5 washers,? perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others go into the block JAV On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that there are 2 different shapes. Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. M _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 3 11:51:51 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 13:51:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail References: Message-ID: This should have been on my last post on this subject -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7903.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 75551 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 3 12:36:09 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 03 Jan 2021 19:36:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] wheel Message-ID: <40e0168536139c0ece2763f367ad7066eb256624@webmail> A very critical point here is the proper placement of the short upper stator tube into the lower, long tube. There is an indent (slot) in the lower tube and the bumps on the upper stator must insert into that indent. Carefully push the upper into the lower lining up these two locations. If you previously loosened the olive, you must now rotate the trafficator to be vertical at the lever, lock the olive and then affix the two (early cars) or three (all later cars) grub screws to have the unit work correctly as one. If you force the upper stator into the lower stator you then distort the tube and as you say get a "sloppy trafficator". New Year greetings to all-Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Tom Mitchell" To: "Michael Oritt" Cc: "Austin Healey" Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 10:10:09AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of expanding the tube. I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator. Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt Tom Dr. Tom Mitchell On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt wrote: "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub." ---------------------------------------------------------- I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube. This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing them as I did. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele wrote: If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I?m ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It?s messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Richard Kahn SENT: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM TO: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] wheel Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off. I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times. Rich ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell SENT: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM TO: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] wheel The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate. Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub. Bob On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote: How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com [10] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [11]http://www.team.net/donate.html [12] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [13]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [14] [15]http://autox.team.net/archive [16] Healeys at autox.team.net [17]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [18] Unsubscribe/Manage: [19]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com [20] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com [11] http://www.team.net/donate.html [12] http://www.team.net/donate.html [13] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [14] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [15] http://autox.team.net/archive [16] http://autox.team.net/archive [17] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [18] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [19] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com [20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:37:42 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:37:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: <419988546.6635923.1609698169181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <419988546.6635923.1609698169181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes that's true Perry, & at 5/16" and 5 at 1/4" M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:22 PM wrote: > Michael > Two different part numbers listed in the 100 Six service parts list. > 2K7440 with 7 per vehicle and 2K5197 with 5 per vehicle. > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2021 1:08 pm > Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail > > > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special > washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that > there are 2 different shapes. > > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this > is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very > original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > > M > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:38:30 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:38:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Unlikely when I have encountered the same count on at least 2 engines. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:17 PM i erbs wrote: > Supply chain issues > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 10:12 AM Michael Salter > wrote: > >> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special >> washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. >> [image: image.png] >> There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is >> that there are 2 different shapes. >> Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but >> this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very >> original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. >> Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. >> >> M >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:39:05 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:39:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: <2015287316.6609930.1609698145199@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2015287316.6609930.1609698145199@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The oil pan (sump) ones are 1/4" M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:22 PM wrote: > These resemble washers used for the oil pan. Maybe some got mixed in for > the timing chain cover?? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Salter > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2021 1:08 pm > Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special > washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > [image: image.png] > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that > there are 2 different shapes. > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this > is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very > original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > M > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:39:54 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:39:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As above ... there are only 7 @ 5/16" on the engine all the others are 1/4" M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:42 PM John Vrugtman wrote: > Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with the 5 > washers, perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others go into the > block > > JAV > > On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special > washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > [image: image.png] > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that > there are 2 different shapes. > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this > is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very > original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 13:50:22 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 15:50:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. [image: image.png] As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the same) are absolutely parallel. It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and really ... would anyone go to that much effort? [image: image.png] Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think about these things. :-) I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things but this has me stumped. Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of the > original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular washers that have > been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do you see the same > disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses those types of narrow > channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > >> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different >> types of >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 831464 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 406859 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 3 14:21:51 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 03 Jan 2021 21:21:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers Message-ID: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier punching out these washers for the British auto industry using different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and match was the order of the day. Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord decreed: "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and profits. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" To: "Skip Saunders" Cc: "healeylist" Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the same) are absolutely parallel. It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and really ... would anyone go to that much effort? Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think about these things. :-) I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things but this has me stumped. Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) Thanks -skip- On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter wrote: I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different types of _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com [10] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 14:32:31 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 16:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well John, what you say is largely correct. The seven 5/16" bolts do indeed thread into the block, sort of ... the five 1/4" ones only thread into the engine front plate. But ... here's the thing ... 2 of the 5/16" bolts actually thread into the front main bearing cap, not the block itself. Unfortunately the 2 bolts with the odd washers were fitted on the left side of the engine above and below the level of the timing pointer .... there goes that theory. M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:42 PM John Vrugtman wrote: > Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with the 5 > washers, perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others go into the > block > > JAV > > On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these "special > washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > [image: image.png] > There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd is that > there are 2 different shapes. > Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers but this > is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little detail on very > original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of the other. > Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible explanation. > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 719663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jan 3 14:33:49 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 16:33:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 3 14:35:10 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 16:35:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> Message-ID: Absolutely true Hank, but this does not explain why I have encountered the same anomaly on more than one engine. I think I still have a couple of never disassembled engines back at the shop ... when I'm next there I'll take a closer look. M On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 4:21 PM wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using different > jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but they desperately > needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and match was the order of > the day. > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard Lord: > After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. Efforts by the > government to improve it, only added restrictions to automobile > manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord decreed: "Get > the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many materials were in > demand but the scarce supply affected production and profits. > > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > [image: image.png] > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the same) > are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and really > ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > [image: image.png] > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things but > being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think about > these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things but > this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > >> Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of the >> original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular washers that have >> been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do you see the same >> disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses those types of narrow >> channel compatible washers I believe.) >> Thanks >> -skip- >> >> On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter >> wrote: >> >>> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 different >>> types of >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net >>> http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: >>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 3 15:02:23 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 14:02:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> Message-ID: I have one of these washers (works on 4- and 8-cylinder engines, too): 2000-PSI Electric Pressure Washer | Greenworks Yes, I have too much time on my hands today. On 1/3/2021 1:21 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and > match was the order of the day. > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > Lord:? After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord > decreed: "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and > profits. > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > image.png > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the > same) are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > image.png > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think > about these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > but this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > the original manufactured type.? The two appear to be regular > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel.? > Do you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too > uses those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Sun Jan 3 16:59:35 2021 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 18:59:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Rare Parts/ OtherLBC for sale References: <2D737868-FE62-4D1F-B9CA-3437CAE22BD2.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <2D737868-FE62-4D1F-B9CA-3437CAE22BD2@aol.com> ? ? ? ? A commitment I made to myself for 2021 was that I was going to de-Clutter my garage and get rid of parts that I have had for years that were just sitting around but that were in some case very very rare items that I in fact had two sets of in some cases. Below is a list of the first set of items for sale. Some have been sold already through club members or friends across the globe, some of the rarer items not sold but have deposits on them. If you have interest in any of the remaining items please don?t hesitate to contact me for prices directly off list at ahmg at aol.com. I can also forward photos of items of interest if necessary. Ken Healey hundred 5 original front fenders (5, both Left and Right), some repaired, most dry stored and in great shape. Two have damage in front with no rust one BN2 (rt)(2 POSSIBLY SOLD) Healey Hundred bonnet skin stripped prepared for Louvering/Stamping(SOLD) Healey Hundred New Blue Side curtains used twice(Moss)(SOLD) Healey 100 rare Style 1 Hundred Perspex Side Curtains, Concours, new glass and seals Healey Hundred Perspex screens Perspex only- used( Lft and Right) Healey Hundred Original Side Curtain bag black- needs cleaning but useable Healey Hundred Original Side Curtain bag red Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain need restoration Healey Hundred Original BN1 sidecurtain Frames(SOLD) Healey Hundred Original BN2 Sidecurtain- all pieces present -need recovering(SOLD) Healey Hundred Original Service Manual and repro sold as pair Healey 100M Carb and linkage- Non Etched but came off running car- since rebuit(1) Healey Hundred Original clear back Fuel Pump- rebuildable? Healey Hundred Water Pump- rebuildable Healey Hundred original grille- Excellent Chrome and Satin Healey Hundred original grille- Re chromed and with correct Satin finish (NA) Healey 3000 Radiator- Great for re-core Healey 100 Hardtop rear backlight(glass)- Nical reproduction hardtop- New Healey Hundred Bonnet Hinge & Cross Brace Assy (New) Healey Hundred Carb Heat Shield-Ah Spares- New Healey rear fender repair panel (2)- (New) Healey Hundred (2)Original Fan blades Healey 3000 bumperettes(4) Jaguar- Series 3 etype repair manual- torn corner Healey BJ7-BJ8 shroud to windshield seal (new) Triumph Tr6 transmission ? rebuilt years ago and removed from running car shortly after. Triumph TR6 Seatbelt retractor(2) Triumph Tr6 Bumper Box of used original Kangol Seat belts-BMC Jaguar 3.8 Series 1 e-type motor with all ancilliaries, rebuilt 10 yrs ago, needs detailing but maintained and turns. Comes with triple carb set up and manifold, starter, tranny, distributor, water pump, exhaust downs. Engine is high compression 9:1 based on stamping and was in a running xk150. RA-4646-9 engine number(SOLD) Last remaining NOS Coolaire air conditioning left in existence for 1964-1967 BJ8. Rarest option available for the BJ8 and only about 50 made. Was also the most expensive option. All components present.(SOLD) Moto Lita racing leather 14-15 inch steering wheel with hub-Moss Healey Flex Fan(Moss New) Original very early rare 9 hole Victor Derington wheel, factory option for Healey Unrestored near mint. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 3 21:32:16 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 04:32:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wrong Bolt? References: <1228478005.6780687.1609734736937.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1228478005.6780687.1609734736937@mail.yahoo.com> Am I missing something here?? Moss calls for this bolt: https://mossmotors.com/bolt-starter-to-block-unf?assoc=5333# to mount the starter to the "block", by which I'm guessing they mean the backplate.? A bit too long for this isn't it?? Does this bolt pass through the transmission flange before putting a nut on it?? Never having the motor or trans together (nevermind in the car) it seems the only logical explanation.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Jan 3 21:40:04 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 04:40:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wrong Bolt? In-Reply-To: <1228478005.6780687.1609734736937@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1228478005.6780687.1609734736937.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1228478005.6780687.1609734736937@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Looks right to me. It has go pass through the engine back plate and the boss on the bell housing. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 4:32 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wrong Bolt? Am I missing something here? Moss calls for this bolt: https://mossmotors.com/bolt-starter-to-block-unf?assoc=5333# to mount the starter to the "block", by which I'm guessing they mean the backplate. A bit too long for this isn't it? Does this bolt pass through the transmission flange before putting a nut on it? Never having the motor or trans together (nevermind in the car) it seems the only logical explanation. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com Sun Jan 3 23:30:09 2021 From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 00:30:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Message-ID: <013601d6e263$0d096ed0$271c4c70$@glasgow-ky.com> I installed an aftermarket tank and sender for my BN2 about 10 yrs ago. Had constant leaks, I tried silicon gasket, cork, hylomar, sealing washers - still leaked. About 3-1/2 yrs ago while in Maryland on business, I took the car to Bruce at Healey Surgeons for various issues, including the leak. He installed original type cork gasket, new screws with copper washers. It hasn't leaked since! He said to always use new copper washers anytime the sender is removed. YMMV. Chappy Rice BN2 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Mon Jan 4 03:23:12 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 10:23:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0269fac4-d33f-4f1e-0bbd-4029f5807aaf@summaventures.com> Michael, it may be that these aren't "wrong" in the usual sense. Shortages were very much part of the time and if they were short of washers they would have used what they had to hand, provided of course that they fitted! There were lists of acceptable alternatives. It's interesting that you found this on two early engines. Do you have dates for them? While things got considerably better in the early 60s, if these engines were manufactured in say '59 or 60 my guess would be that they couldn't get the washers originally specified and used what they did have. Knowing that they were in the same batch of engines might confirm that. We often tend to forget what a bad place the UK was in at that time, shortages were rife everywhere in industry and there was no concept of JIT :-) . Regards, Peter On 03/01/2021 20:39, Michael Salter wrote: > As above ... there are only 7 @ 5/16" on the engine?? all the others are > 1/4" > > M > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:42 PM John Vrugtman > wrote: > > Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with > the 5 washers,? perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others > go into the block > > JAV > > On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these >> "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. >> image.png >> There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd >> is that there are 2 different shapes. >> Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers >> but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little >> detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of >> the other. >> Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible >> explanation. >> >> M >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From pdzwig at summaventures.com Mon Jan 4 03:27:50 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 10:27:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> Message-ID: Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's mail. It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. Peter On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using different > jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but they > desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and match > was the order of the day.? > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > Lord:? After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. Efforts > by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to automobile > manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord decreed: > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many materials > were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and profits. > ? > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > image.png > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the same) > are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > image.png > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things but > being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think about > these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > but this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > the original manufactured type.? The two appear to be regular > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel.? Do > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 > different types of? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 04:14:10 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 06:14:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl engine detail In-Reply-To: <0269fac4-d33f-4f1e-0bbd-4029f5807aaf@summaventures.com> References: <0269fac4-d33f-4f1e-0bbd-4029f5807aaf@summaventures.com> Message-ID: Many thanks to everyone who responded to my enquiry about the 2 odd shaped washers. It seems most likely that the concept of "alternate supplier" is the most likely explanation and the fact that I've encountered this on another engine is just coincidence. Happy New Year everyone. M On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 5:23 AM Peter Dzwig wrote: > Michael, > > it may be that these aren't "wrong" in the usual sense. > > Shortages were very much part of the time and if they were short of > washers they would have used what they had to hand, provided of course > that they fitted! There were lists of acceptable alternatives. > > It's interesting that you found this on two early engines. Do you have > dates for them? While things got considerably better in the early 60s, > if these engines were manufactured in say '59 or 60 my guess would be > that they couldn't get the washers originally specified and used what > they did have. Knowing that they were in the same batch of engines might > confirm that. > > We often tend to forget what a bad place the UK was in at that time, > shortages were rife everywhere in industry and there was no concept of > JIT :-) . > > Regards, > > Peter > > On 03/01/2021 20:39, Michael Salter wrote: > > As above ... there are only 7 @ 5/16" on the engine all the others are > > 1/4" > > > > M > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:42 PM John Vrugtman > > wrote: > > > > Also are 7 bolts to go with the 7 washers, and 5 bolts to go with > > the 5 washers, perhaps the 7 go into the front plate and the others > > go into the block > > > > JAV > > > > On 1/3/2021 1:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > >> I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have encountered these > >> "special washers" for the 5/16" bolts on the timing chain cover. > >> image.png > >> There are 7 (2K5197) called for on the front cover but what is odd > >> is that there are 2 different shapes. > >> Normally I would conclude that they were from different suppliers > >> but this is the 2nd time that I have come across this odd little > >> detail on very original 6 cylinder engines, 5 of one type and 2 of > >> the other. > >> Wondering if anyone else has noticed this and has a plausible > >> explanation. > >> > >> M > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > > > > -- > > Dr. Peter Dzwig > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 4 05:50:46 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 07:50:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> Message-ID: <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca> For the record, I am pretty sure it is my motor that Mike is working on. I have a Heritage Certificate which gives the build date as 29 Sept to 6 October, 1959. Dispatch date was 13 October. That was for the car, and they may have had motors built up and waiting for installation, but it ties it down fairly closely. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: January 4, 2021 5:28 AM To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's mail. It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. Peter On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and > match was the order of the day. > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord decreed: > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and profits. > > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > image.png > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the > same) are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > image.png > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think > about these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > but this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 > different types of > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/ > mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http:/ > /autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 08:19:39 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 07:19:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <75a4549d-13fc-ed6c-5407-3078c64f0ebc@earthlink.net> References: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <75a4549d-13fc-ed6c-5407-3078c64f0ebc@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hi All, Restoring the seat sliders is fairly straightforward. First, there is no need to grind away a broken 1/4" stud. I simply placed the slider in my "Arbor Press" and the spot welds have ALWAYS broken away cleanly! See photo. Attaching the chrome seat slide lever with the two rivets is made much simpler by using "Push Pins" versus hammering the end flat. See photo. New studs can easily be made using properly sized hex bolts and grinding / filing the head into the proper circular shape and thickness. See photo. Cheers, Curt On Sat, Jan 2, 2021 at 2:26 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > Simon, > > The tee nuts - 9/16" hex. The turned down section is 3/8" diameter, > 3/8" tall. 1/4-28 internal threads. 5/8" overall length. > > In the US, Moss Motors price is $3 each. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 1/2/21 2:46 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > > > First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I > > know exactly where I should be. Should be! > > > > However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find > > that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size > > is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass > > through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through > > the floor to the outside. > > > > I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in > > case, :- > > > > What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which > > should be coming up from below? > > > > And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, > > through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild > > guess? Or bigger? > > > > See attached. > > > > And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which > > they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices > > over here, they seem to be made of platinum. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Simon > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: BN1 Seat Sliders-1a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 982125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 08:24:43 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 07:24:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: References: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <75a4549d-13fc-ed6c-5407-3078c64f0ebc@earthlink.net> Message-ID: More photos... On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 7:19 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > Hi All, > > Restoring the seat sliders is fairly straightforward. > > First, there is no need to grind away a broken 1/4" stud. I simply placed > the slider in my "Arbor Press" and the spot welds have ALWAYS broken away > cleanly! See photo. > > Attaching the chrome seat slide lever with the two rivets is made much > simpler by using "Push Pins" versus hammering the end flat. See photo. > > New studs can easily be made using properly sized hex bolts and grinding / > filing the head into the proper circular shape and thickness. See photo. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Sat, Jan 2, 2021 at 2:26 PM Bob Haskell > wrote: > >> Simon, >> >> The tee nuts - 9/16" hex. The turned down section is 3/8" diameter, >> 3/8" tall. 1/4-28 internal threads. 5/8" overall length. >> >> In the US, Moss Motors price is $3 each. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> On 1/2/21 2:46 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: >> > >> > First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I >> > know exactly where I should be. Should be! >> > >> > However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find >> > that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size >> > is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass >> > through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through >> > the floor to the outside. >> > >> > I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in >> > case, :- >> > >> > What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which >> > should be coming up from below? >> > >> > And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, >> > through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild >> > guess? Or bigger? >> > >> > See attached. >> > >> > And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which >> > they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices >> > over here, they seem to be made of platinum. >> > >> > Thanks, >> > >> > Simon >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: BN1 Seat Sliders-7a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1008319 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 4 09:38:56 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 08:38:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <013601d6e263$0d096ed0$271c4c70$@glasgow-ky.com> References: <013601d6e263$0d096ed0$271c4c70$@glasgow-ky.com> Message-ID: <06fd51cb-302d-7c16-87b7-04b53fbaeccf@comcast.net> PTFE (teflon) thread sealant has worked well for me over the years; particularly on differential plugs (and IIRC I used it on my sender screws). In my experience, you have to torque copper washers pretty tight to get them to seal--not a problem with pan drain plugs--and they can be annealed back to soft. Note one of the major causes for sender leaks is owners over-torquing the screws--trying to stop a leak--and warping the flange on the sender (not that I would EVER do such a thing). Sometimes, you can flat-file the flange back to straightness. Bob On 1/3/2021 10:30 PM, Charles Rice wrote: > > I installed an aftermarket tank and sender for my BN2 about 10 yrs > ago.? Had constant leaks, I tried silicon gasket, cork, hylomar, > sealing washers ? still leaked. > > About 3-1/2 yrs ago while in Maryland on business, I took the car to > Bruce at Healey Surgeons for various issues, including the leak.? He > installed original > > type cork gasket, new screws with _copper washers._? It hasn?t leaked > since!? He said to always use new copper washers anytime the sender is > removed. YMMV. > > Chappy Rice? BN2 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Jan 4 10:44:36 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 09:44:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: References: <000501d6e13f$f47f6ff0$dd7e4fd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <75a4549d-13fc-ed6c-5407-3078c64f0ebc@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I am doing the same job at the moment. On my car of the 8 rails with those stud/bolts every rail has at least one stripped - above and below - most have 2. Why are they prone to this thread stripping ? Poor quality ? or just over-tightening over the years ? I initially replaced all the upstairs nuts with gr 8 plus extra washers - probably made things worse ! Just wondering ... rg Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 7:43 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > More photos... > > On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 7:19 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> Hi All, >> >> Restoring the seat sliders is fairly straightforward. >> >> First, there is no need to grind away a broken 1/4" stud. I simply placed >> the slider in my "Arbor Press" and the spot welds have ALWAYS broken away >> cleanly! See photo. >> >> Attaching the chrome seat slide lever with the two rivets is made much >> simpler by using "Push Pins" versus hammering the end flat. See photo. >> >> New studs can easily be made using properly sized hex bolts and grinding >> / filing the head into the proper circular shape and thickness. See photo. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Sat, Jan 2, 2021 at 2:26 PM Bob Haskell >> wrote: >> >>> Simon, >>> >>> The tee nuts - 9/16" hex. The turned down section is 3/8" diameter, >>> 3/8" tall. 1/4-28 internal threads. 5/8" overall length. >>> >>> In the US, Moss Motors price is $3 each. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>> >>> On 1/2/21 2:46 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: >>> > >>> > First of all, thank you for the responses. All very helpful. Now I >>> > know exactly where I should be. Should be! >>> > >>> > However, some ham-fisted cretin has been in there before me. I find >>> > that the slides are held down to the floor by bolts whose shank size >>> > is 3/8?. They?ve each had two of their flats ground down and they pass >>> > through 3/8? holes in the bottom half of the slides and thence through >>> > the floor to the outside. >>> > >>> > I think that it?ll be too much trouble to replace them but, just in >>> > case, :- >>> > >>> > What is the outside diameter of the so-called tube nut or t-nuts which >>> > should be coming up from below? >>> > >>> > And what size are the bolts which come down from the slides/runners, >>> > through the floor and into the tube nuts? ?? unf 28tpi at a wild >>> > guess? Or bigger? >>> > >>> > See attached. >>> > >>> > And, finally, is there another name for these ?tube nuts? by which >>> > they might be found and bought at a sensible price? From their prices >>> > over here, they seem to be made of platinum. >>> > >>> > Thanks, >>> > >>> > Simon >>> > >>> > >>> > _______________________________________________ >>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> > >>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> > >>> > Healeys at autox.team.net >>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> > >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> > >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 4 13:19:52 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 12:19:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Message-ID: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> Listers, What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. Bob From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 14:36:10 2021 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 15:36:10 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, I think you mean camber angle. Caster is the forward/rearward angle inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a Healey. Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel when viewed front front. Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is probably close. Neil Anderson On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't > specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 4 15:00:40 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 14:00:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> Message-ID: <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in chassis geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend ALL my time correcting people on the interwebs ;).? I know Healey geometry is usually fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable camber plates, and I acquired a set of shock plate inserts for my BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of the shock plates, remove the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes enough to allow a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or two of caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the measuring. My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I installed a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. caster; I think lessening that a little might decrease steering effort (which may be normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). If it makes the car too 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I get the handling I like. Bob On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: > Bob, > I think you mean camber angle.? Caster is the forward/rearward angle > inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a > Healey.? Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel > when viewed front front. > > Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is > probably close. > > Neil Anderson > > On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell > wrote: > > Listers, > > What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't > specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 15:12:31 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 17:12:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> Message-ID: Castor should be 1 3/4 degrees ... it's in the factory manual .. Bear in mind that sagged rear springs can add to that. 2 1/2 degrees is way too much. M On Mon., Jan. 4, 2021, 5:01 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: > Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in chassis > geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend ALL my time > correcting people on the interwebs ;). I know Healey geometry is usually > fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable camber plates, and I acquired a > set of shock plate inserts for my BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of > the shock plates, remove the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes > enough to allow a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or > two of caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the > measuring. > > My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I installed > a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. caster; I think > lessening that a little might decrease steering effort (which may be > normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). If it makes the car too > 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I get the handling I like. > > Bob > > On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: > > Bob, > I think you mean camber angle. Caster is the forward/rearward angle > inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a Healey. > Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel when viewed > front front. > > Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is probably > close. > > Neil Anderson > > On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't >> specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. >> >> Bob >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 4 15:19:50 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 14:19:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> Message-ID: <77804c78-27c5-9acf-d2e0-aba38f0bea09@comcast.net> Soooooo ... that could be the cause of hard turning? On 1/4/2021 2:12 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Castor should be 1 3/4 degrees ... it's in the factory manual .. > Bear in mind that sagged rear springs can add to that. > 2 1/2 degrees is way too much. > > M > > On Mon., Jan. 4, 2021, 5:01 p.m. Bob Spidell, > wrote: > > Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in > chassis geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend > ALL my time correcting people on the interwebs ;).? I know Healey > geometry is usually fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable > camber plates, and I acquired a set of shock plate inserts for my > BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of the shock plates, remove > the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes enough to allow > a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or two of > caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the > measuring. > > My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I > installed a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. > caster; I think lessening that a little might decrease steering > effort (which may be normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). > If it makes the car too 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I > get the handling I like. > > Bob > > On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: >> Bob, >> I think you mean camber angle.? Caster is the forward/rearward >> angle inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set >> on a Healey.? Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of >> the wheel when viewed front front. >> >> Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is >> probably close. >> >> Neil Anderson >> >> On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell > > wrote: >> >> Listers, >> >> What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual >> doesn't >> specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. >> >> Bob >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Jan 4 15:53:00 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 22:53:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <77804c78-27c5-9acf-d2e0-aba38f0bea09@comcast.net> References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> , <77804c78-27c5-9acf-d2e0-aba38f0bea09@comcast.net> Message-ID: Kilmartin sells shock mount plates that allows you to adjust camber but they can also sells you a set up for 4 degrees of castor. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 4, 2021 4:22 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Soooooo ... that could be the cause of hard turning? On 1/4/2021 2:12 PM, Michael Salter wrote: Castor should be 1 3/4 degrees ... it's in the factory manual .. Bear in mind that sagged rear springs can add to that. 2 1/2 degrees is way too much. M On Mon., Jan. 4, 2021, 5:01 p.m. Bob Spidell, > wrote: Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in chassis geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend ALL my time correcting people on the interwebs ;). I know Healey geometry is usually fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable camber plates, and I acquired a set of shock plate inserts for my BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of the shock plates, remove the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes enough to allow a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or two of caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the measuring. My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I installed a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. caster; I think lessening that a little might decrease steering effort (which may be normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). If it makes the car too 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I get the handling I like. Bob On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: Bob, I think you mean camber angle. Caster is the forward/rearward angle inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a Healey. Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel when viewed front front. Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is probably close. Neil Anderson On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell > wrote: Listers, What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Mon Jan 4 18:48:59 2021 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 20:48:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Parts References: <21652C7F-3839-4958-BFF9-111805FAAC06.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <21652C7F-3839-4958-BFF9-111805FAAC06@aol.com> ?Little further digging and uncovered a few more items on the block. For sale the following to add to the list . Jack- Shelley LJ23 date coded correct 54 for early BN1. Very hard to find Set of 3 Snail Made in England wrenches Assorted correct wrenches BN Ken -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 125107 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4424780 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 110771 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83277 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From manifold at telus.net Mon Jan 4 19:53:51 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 18:53:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> References: <970492f1-8779-2121-f4bc-f24c5032df34@comcast.net> <3b6b89bc-ef3c-35f7-2d4d-9a3bcd2e2b08@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B1E7C7E97EA425C86970CBF6C7B61D7@AllInOne> Bob, I happened to have my early Healey 100 / 3000 Workshop Manual sitting by a scanner. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 2:01 PM To: Neil Anderson Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in chassis geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend ALL my time correcting people on the interwebs ;). I know Healey geometry is usually fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable camber plates, and I acquired a set of shock plate inserts for my BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of the shock plates, remove the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes enough to allow a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or two of caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the measuring. My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I installed a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. caster; I think lessening that a little might decrease steering effort (which may be normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). If it makes the car too 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I get the handling I like. Bob On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: Bob, I think you mean camber angle. Caster is the forward/rearward angle inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a Healey. Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel when viewed front front. Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is probably close. Neil Anderson On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: Listers, What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Castor and Camber Angles.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1374158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Jan 4 22:40:12 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2021 05:40:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Message-ID: <5be35d51547d6ce1bbb6e856e96f7f85b5ef502f@webmail> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Bob Spidell", "Neil Anderson" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Monday January 4 2021 6:58:27PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Bob, I happened to have my early Healey 100 / 3000 Workshop Manual sitting by a scanner. Harold ------------------------- FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Bob Spidell SENT: Monday, January 04, 2021 2:01 PM TO: Neil Anderson CC: Healeys SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Nope. For once, I'm NOT confused. I've acquired an interest in chassis geometry WRT to handling characteristics (and can't spend ALL my time correcting people on the interwebs ;). I know Healey geometry is usually fixed; but my BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable camber plates, and I acquired a set of shock plate inserts for my BJ8. I believe I can remove the ends of the shock plates, remove the captive nuts and lengthen and widen the holes enough to allow a couple degrees of camber adjustment and maybe a degree or two of caster adjustment. I bought a 4-wheel alignment kit to do the measuring. My BN2 is surprisingly hard to turn, and only got more so when I installed a smaller diameter steering wheel. It has 2-2.5deg pos. caster; I think lessening that a little might decrease steering effort (which may be normal, but I've only driven this one BN2). If it makes the car too 'squirrely' I can fiddle with it until I get the handling I like. Bob On 1/4/2021 1:36 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: Bob, I think you mean camber angle. Caster is the forward/rearward angle inclination of the swivel upright, which is permanently set on a Healey. Camber is the top inward or outward angle tilt of the wheel when viewed front front. Not sure what the factory camber angle is, but what you stated is probably close. Neil Anderson On Mon, Jan 4, 2021, 2:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: Listers, What's the recommended setting (my version of the shop manual doesn't specify one)? I think the BJ8 manual recommends 1-2deg pos. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 5 01:41:54 2021 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2021 08:41:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster angle References: <1075905798.11122263.1609836114754.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1075905798.11122263.1609836114754@mail.yahoo.com> I am a long term owner of? BN2 and by far the biggest cause of "hard" steering is modern radial ply tyres. These cars were designed for Dunlop Roadspeed cross plies. The effect is worst at parking speeds, but the stability at high speed is so much improved with radials, I put up with it. Mike BrooksBN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 5 08:36:23 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2021 07:36:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <5be35d51547d6ce1bbb6e856e96f7f85b5ef502f@webmail> References: <5be35d51547d6ce1bbb6e856e96f7f85b5ef502f@webmail> Message-ID: <0367edb8-5304-b746-1d82-a02ee4b15c36@comcast.net> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" How so? On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" > toe-in is most important for proper tire wear.? The other two are > factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if > Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Jan 5 10:45:34 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2021 17:45:34 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece Message-ID: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> Still messing around with the slides. One issue being a certain reluctance to commit to welding for the very first time. So, just for my info, how thick are the wooden packing pieces that go under the slides. Mine are 3/8" as near as damnit. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 5 23:36:20 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2021 22:36:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece In-Reply-To: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <016101d6e3f6$3f1eee60$bd5ccb20$@sbcglobal.net> The ones my dad made about 18 years ago are about 1/4". Be careful with the thickness. If the packing pieces are too thick, combined with the floor insulation, it will make it hard to install the seat runners using the "T" nuts from underneath the car. The added thickness makes hard to engage the seat runner bolts. That might be one of the reasons the bolts are often stripped because when the runners are two high one can only engage a few threads on the bolts thus they are easily ruined. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2021 9:46 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece Still messing around with the slides. One issue being a certain reluctance to commit to welding for the very first time. So, just for my info, how thick are the wooden packing pieces that go under the slides. Mine are 3/8" as near as damnit. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Jan 5 23:37:04 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 19:37:04 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece In-Reply-To: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000001d6e3f6$5a6cad60$0f460820$@xtra.co.nz> Hi, Simon, FWIW, some repro wooden packers I purchased from AH Spares are 3/8? thick, whereas the original packers, still in good nick, are ?? I was considering taking the thicker (repro) ones to a cabinetmaker to have him run them through a thicknesser to bring them down to ?? I wonder if there was a change to the greater thickness over the production years. Facts and figures, anyone? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2021 6:46 a.m. To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece Still messing around with the slides. One issue being a certain reluctance to commit to welding for the very first time. So, just for my info, how thick are the wooden packing pieces that go under the slides. Mine are 3/8? as near as damnit. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 5 23:47:00 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 06:47:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss.? Can someone tell me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot lid?? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other.? Kind of confusing. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seal1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 87266 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 02:07:20 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 09:07:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike. Enjoy Alan - from my iPad > On 6 Jan 2021, at 06:54, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss. Can someone tell me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot lid? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other. Kind of confusing. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 6 03:04:06 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:04:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <274378136.2645320.1609927446423@mail.yahoo.com> That couldn't be more clear.? Thanks.Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 1:07 AM, Bluehealey wrote: Hi Mike. Enjoy Alan - from my iPad On 6 Jan 2021, at 06:54, Michael MacLean wrote: ?In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss.? Can someone tell me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot lid?? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other.? Kind of confusing. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 03:04:05 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:04:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Remember to make the joint at the bottom centre. If top rain may still get in. On Wed, 6 Jan 2021 at 09:16, Bluehealey wrote: > Hi Mike. > > Enjoy > Alan - from my iPad > > On 6 Jan 2021, at 06:54, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view > of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss. Can someone tell > me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot > lid? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other. Kind of > confusing. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 06:24:36 2021 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 08:24:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <0367edb8-5304-b746-1d82-a02ee4b15c36@comcast.net> References: <5be35d51547d6ce1bbb6e856e96f7f85b5ef502f@webmail> <0367edb8-5304-b746-1d82-a02ee4b15c36@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. > On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" > > How so? > > On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 06:53:01 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 08:53:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike-- The surface away from your thumb (the "top" of the parallelogram) gets glued to the underside of the lid with the ends butted up at the top of the lid or what would be the bottom when working on things from inside the boot. Use "yellow peril" or a similar adhesive in black--sparingly.... On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 1:54 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view > of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss. Can someone tell > me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot > lid? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other. Kind of > confusing. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 6 07:15:41 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 09:15:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece In-Reply-To: <000001d6e3f6$5a6cad60$0f460820$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000001d6e3f6$5a6cad60$0f460820$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <532A1113-F2BF-4034-9953-2D63D5FAEF81@aol.com> 5/16 inch Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:53 AM, Mark Donaldson wrote: > > ? > Hi, Simon, > > FWIW, some repro wooden packers I purchased from AH Spares are 3/8? thick, whereas the original packers, still in good nick, are ?? > I was considering taking the thicker (repro) ones to a cabinetmaker to have him run them through a thicknesser to bring them down to ?? > > I wonder if there was a change to the greater thickness over the production years. Facts and figures, anyone? > > Mark > Ardmore, NZ > > From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2021 6:46 a.m. > To: 'Healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece > > Still messing around with the slides. One issue being a certain reluctance to commit to welding for the very first time. > So, just for my info, how thick are the wooden packing pieces that go under the slides. Mine are 3/8? as near as damnit. > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 07:47:22 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 14:47:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: These are the ones. https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx Well worth doing. The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. Have fun. Alan - from my iPad > On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: > ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. > >> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >> >> How so? >> >> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 08:06:07 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:06:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John is correct and ZI was obviously thinking upside down when I posted otherwise ealier Disregard what I said about making the joint at the top.... On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 5:06 AM john harper wrote: > Remember to make the joint at the bottom centre. If top rain may still get > in. > > On Wed, 6 Jan 2021 at 09:16, Bluehealey wrote: > >> Hi Mike. >> >> Enjoy >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 06:54, Michael MacLean wrote: >> >> ? >> In the picture included with this post you can see a cross sectional view >> of the rubber boot lid seal that I purchased from Moss. Can someone tell >> me which edge(s) gets to glued to what surface on the underside of the boot >> lid? There are no surfaces that are 90 degrees to each other. Kind of >> confusing. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 08:13:50 2021 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:13:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: Listers, I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? Thanks, mystified, Fred 66 BJ8 On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: > These are the ones. > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx > Well worth doing. > The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. > It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at > the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop > arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a > difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. > The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). > Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial > tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on > steering feel when wrong (in either direction). > If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes > you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn > something. > The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. > Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never > seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. > Have fun. > Alan - from my iPad > > On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: > > ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the > top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the > ease of steering. > > On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or > maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" > > > How so? > > > On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" > toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory > fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes > the parts. Hank > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 08:34:52 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:34:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately the bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up after about 1 year. Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass. M On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: > These are the ones. > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx > Well worth doing. > The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. > It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at > the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop > arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a > difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. > The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). > Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial > tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on > steering feel when wrong (in either direction). > If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes > you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn > something. > The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. > Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never > seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. > Have fun. > Alan - from my iPad > > On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: > > ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the > top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the > ease of steering. > > On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or > maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" > > > How so? > > > On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" > toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory > fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes > the parts. Hank > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 08:39:27 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (bluehealey at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 15:39:27 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: <033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com> Hi Fred. You are not the first person that I have encountered with this confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the beam. The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. Cheers. AlanB From: Fred Wescoe Sent: 06 January 2021 15:14 To: Bluehealey Cc: Team.net ; Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle Listers, I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? Thanks, mystified, Fred 66 BJ8 On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey > wrote: These are the ones. https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx Well worth doing. The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. Have fun. Alan - from my iPad On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net > wrote: ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" How so? On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13262 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 08:55:25 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:55:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: Think deeper Fred :-) M On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 10:38 AM Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and > considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped > around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the > weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight > of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems > replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can > someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? > > Thanks, mystified, > > Fred > > 66 BJ8 > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: > >> These are the ones. >> >> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >> Well worth doing. >> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering >> Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor >> seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the >> drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a >> difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). >> Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial >> tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on >> steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes >> you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn >> something. >> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. >> Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never >> seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >> Have fun. >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >> >> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the >> top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the >> ease of steering. >> >> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> >> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or >> maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >> >> >> How so? >> >> >> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >> >> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" >> toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory >> fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes >> the parts. Hank >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 09:13:52 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 08:13:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: <090f2aa5-9fef-e5cb-9481-ecf865772127@comcast.net> That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I've wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets squished out). I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was confirmation bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install them on the bottom, load-bearing, trunnion. Bob ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately > the bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted > up after about 1 year. > Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass. > > M > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey > wrote: > > These are the ones. > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx > > Well worth doing. > The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the > Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for > oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball > joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. > Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the > best way to clean and lubricate. > The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was > good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more > compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This > has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either > direction). > If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster > changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team > may learn something. > The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump > steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on > rails.? I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on > our Big Healeys. > Have fun. > Alan - from my iPad > >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net > > wrote: >> >> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings >> at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge >> difference in the ease of steering. >> >>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell >> > wrote: >>> >>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play >>> with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >>> >>> How so? >>> >>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net >>> wrote: >>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The >>>> 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear.? The >>>> other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or >>>> maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 10:05:09 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 09:05:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com> References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> <033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers." Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the chassis). Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: > > Hi Fred. > > You are not the first person that I have encountered with this > confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with > pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is > captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the beam.? > The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel > axle. All fairly obvious. > > In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of > the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and > stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion > using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. > > The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers. > Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially in a > 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. > > Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. > > Cheers. > > AlanB > > *From:*Fred Wescoe > *Sent:* 06 January 2021 15:14 > *To:* Bluehealey > *Cc:* Team.net ; Ahealey help > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle > > Listers, > > I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and > considered installing them.? However, I simply cannot get my head > wrapped around why?replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would > reduce the weight of the car and improve steering.? It seems to me > that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the > kingpin.? To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no > effect on the steering effort.? Can someone explain in simple language > why this kit would work? > > Thanks, mystified, > > Fred > > 66 BJ8 > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey > wrote: > > These are the ones. > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx > > > Well worth doing. > > The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the > Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for > oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball > joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. > Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the > best way to clean and lubricate. > > The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was > good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more > compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This > has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either > direction). > > If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster > changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team > may learn something. > > The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump > steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on > rails.? I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on > our Big Healeys. > Have fun. > > Alan - from my iPad > > > > On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net > wrote: > > ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust > bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - > made a huge difference in the ease of steering. > > > On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell > > wrote: > > re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to > play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" > > How so? > > On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net > wrote: > > I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" > The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire > wear.? The other two are factory fixed and too > dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin > makes the parts. Hank > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13262 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 6 11:03:01 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 18:03:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: <127733841.7881239.1609956181691@mail.yahoo.com> If the whole weight of the car was sitting on the bottom of the kingpins then we would have a bigger friction problem since there is not a supporting surface, in the vertical direction, between the kingpin and the stub axle assembly. The supporting surface is the thrust washers in the upper trunnion. P From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 11:25:27 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 10:25:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <127733841.7881239.1609956181691@mail.yahoo.com> References: <127733841.7881239.1609956181691@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9FDBBA05-AE63-46B1-A276-973938BA8314@comcast.net> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 659887 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- > On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:06 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > > ?If the whole weight of the car was sitting on the bottom of the kingpins then we would have a bigger friction problem since there is not a supporting surface, in the vertical direction, between the kingpin and the stub axle assembly. The supporting surface is the thrust washers in the upper trunnion. > P > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 11:38:38 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 18:38:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry Bob - you?re still not gettin? it. The important bit is - >> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car. Then - >> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand under the spline hub to support the car. Now unwind the the top nut of the kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the bottom the kingpin. If you undo the nut all the way you will drop the car on the deck. Alan - from my iPad > On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers." > > Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the chassis). > > Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. > > > On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: >> Hi Fred. >> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the beam. The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. >> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. >> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. >> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. >> Cheers. >> AlanB >> >> >> From: Fred Wescoe >> Sent: 06 January 2021 15:14 >> To: Bluehealey >> Cc: Team.net ; Ahealey help >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle >> >> Listers, >> >> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? >> >> Thanks, mystified, >> >> Fred >> >> 66 BJ8 >> >> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: >> These are the ones. >> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >> Well worth doing. >> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. >> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >> Have fun. >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >> >> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >> >> >> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >> >> How so? >> >> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avast.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 6 11:40:41 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 18:40:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <9FDBBA05-AE63-46B1-A276-973938BA8314@comcast.net> References: <127733841.7881239.1609956181691@mail.yahoo.com> <9FDBBA05-AE63-46B1-A276-973938BA8314@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1550234472.7875283.1609958441067@mail.yahoo.com> The photo shows the chassis weight supported by the lower a arms on the jack stands, Spring compression is also part of the chassis support. When the car is on the road it is supported by the stub axle which applies thrust upward against the upper trunnion. From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 11:48:57 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 13:48:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <090f2aa5-9fef-e5cb-9481-ecf865772127@comcast.net> References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> <090f2aa5-9fef-e5cb-9481-ecf865772127@comcast.net> Message-ID: Re: *Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). * I would have completely agreed with you Bob until I started doing some basic designing of front suspension systems. Although changing the camber may seem like a small thing you would be surprised at how much a small adjustment in any of the suspension angles of dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" and "bump steer" each of which can have a profound effect on ride and handling. As an example I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel steering but I don't think that is relevant. When I bought it fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. These wheels moved the front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upon the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram tracking" and incredible tyre wear. I had another 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the wheels off that car onto mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable; both the handling problems vanished completely. I almost managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his regular wheels for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean by letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on. Small changes can have VERY LARGE consequences. M On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I've > wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets squished > out). > > I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought > steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was confirmation > bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install them on the bottom, > load-bearing, trunnion. > > Bob > > ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is > recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires > most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). > > > On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately the > bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up after > about 1 year. > Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass. > > M > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: > >> These are the ones. >> >> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >> Well worth doing. >> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering >> Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor >> seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the >> drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a >> difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). >> Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial >> tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on >> steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes >> you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn >> something. >> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. >> Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never >> seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >> Have fun. >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >> >> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the >> top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the >> ease of steering. >> >> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> >> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or >> maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >> >> >> How so? >> >> >> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >> >> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" >> toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory >> fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes >> the parts. Hank >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 12:11:24 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 14:11:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Nice idea David, how much are they? M On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 11:12 AM David Nock wrote: > These washers were there to help distribute the pressure on the timing > cover > gasket and help seal. Over the years the cover distorts and they don?t > work > as well. So we have made a ring that goes around the timing cover > completely > on the 100 and the bottom 2/3 of the 6 cylinder motors. It replaces the > oval > washers and helps stop the seeping of the timing cover gaskets. > > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > -----Original Message----- > From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 4:50 AM > To: pdzwig at summaventures.com ; gradea1 at charter.net ; 'Michael Salter' > Cc: 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers > > For the record, I am pretty sure it is my motor that Mike is working on. > I > have a Heritage Certificate which gives the build date as 29 Sept to 6 > October, 1959. Dispatch date was 13 October. That was for the car, and > they may have had motors built up and waiting for installation, but it > ties > it down fairly closely. > > Cheers, Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig > Sent: January 4, 2021 5:28 AM > To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael Salter' > Cc: 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers > > Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's > mail. > > It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine > stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. > > Peter > > On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using > > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but > > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and > > match was the order of the day. > > > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > > Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. > > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to > > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord > > decreed: > > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many > > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and > > profits. > > > > Hank > > > > ----------------------------------------- > > > > From: "Michael Salter" > > To: "Skip Saunders" > > Cc: "healeylist" > > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > > > image.png > > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the > > same) are absolutely parallel. > > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > > > > image.png > > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things > > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think > > about these things. :-) > > > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > > but this has me stumped. > > > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > > > M > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > > the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular > > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do > > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses > > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > > Thanks > > -skip- > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > > wrote: > > > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 > > different types of > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: > > > > > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > > http://autox.team.net/ > > mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > http:/ > > /autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > > > > -- > > Dr. Peter Dzwig > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 12:24:06 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 11:24:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> It?s a side load on the shock. > On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > ?Sorry Bob - you?re still not gettin? it. > The important bit is - >>> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. > That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car. > Then - >>> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. > If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand under the spline hub to support the car. Now unwind the the top nut of the kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the bottom the kingpin. If you undo the nut all the way you will drop the car on the deck. > > Alan - from my iPad > >>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >> ? re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers." >> >> Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the chassis). >> >> Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. >> >> >> On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: >>> Hi Fred. >>> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the beam. The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. >>> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. >>> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. >>> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. >>> Cheers. >>> AlanB >>> >>> >>> From: Fred Wescoe >>> Sent: 06 January 2021 15:14 >>> To: Bluehealey >>> Cc: Team.net ; Ahealey help >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? >>> >>> Thanks, mystified, >>> >>> Fred >>> >>> 66 BJ8 >>> >>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: >>> These are the ones. >>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>> Well worth doing. >>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. >>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >>> Have fun. >>> Alan - from my iPad >>> >>> >>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >>> >>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >>> >>> >>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >>> >>> How so? >>> >>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> Virus-free. www.avast.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 799720 bytes Desc: not available URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed Jan 6 12:57:41 2021 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 14:57:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> References: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5eb6ddc1-20e7-36d5-92f4-83183b9fab11@htcnet.org> This is rapidly getting better than : "what oil should I use in my healey"? I would ask in this picture where is the gap, at the bottom or at the top. JAV On 1/6/2021 2:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > It?s a side load on the shock. > >> On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey wrote: >> >> ? Sorry Bob - you?re still not gettin? it. >> The important bit is - >>>> >>>> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. >>>> >> That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car. >> Then - >>>> >>>> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through >>>> the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom >>>> wishbone and spring. >>>> >> If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand under >> the spline hub to support the car. ?Now unwind the the top nut of the >> kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the bottom the >> kingpin. ?If you undo the nut all the way you will drop the car on >> the deck. >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> >>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> ? re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust >>> washers." >>> >>> Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear >>> springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several >>> times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). >>> Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode >>> through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few >>> years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required >>> (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as >>> well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock >>> rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack >>> under the chassis). >>> >>> Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, >>> the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some >>> binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could >>> result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. >>> >>> >>> On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi Fred. >>>> >>>> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this >>>> confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with >>>> pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle >>>> is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the >>>> beam.? The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto >>>> the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. >>>> >>>> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight >>>> of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel >>>> and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top >>>> trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and >>>> spring. >>>> >>>> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust >>>> washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially >>>> in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. >>>> >>>> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. >>>> >>>> Cheers. >>>> >>>> AlanB >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From:*Fred Wescoe >>>> *Sent:* 06 January 2021 15:14 >>>> *To:* Bluehealey >>>> *Cc:* Team.net ; Ahealey help >>>> >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle >>>> >>>> Listers, >>>> >>>> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and >>>> considered installing them.? However, I simply cannot get my head >>>> wrapped around why?replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin >>>> would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering.? It seems >>>> to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom >>>> of the kingpin.? To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would >>>> have no effect on the steering effort.? Can someone explain in >>>> simple language why this kit would work? >>>> >>>> Thanks, mystified, >>>> >>>> Fred >>>> >>>> 66 BJ8 >>>> >>>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> These are the ones. >>>> >>>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>>> >>>> >>>> Well worth doing. >>>> >>>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the >>>> Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir >>>> for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the >>>> ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for >>>> stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job >>>> and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>>> >>>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was >>>> good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more >>>> compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. >>>> This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in >>>> either direction). >>>> >>>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the >>>> caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your >>>> findings. The Team may learn something. >>>> >>>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is >>>> bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are >>>> on rails.? I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with >>>> this on our Big Healeys. >>>> Have fun. >>>> >>>> Alan - from my iPad >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust >>>> bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - >>>> made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell >>>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous >>>> to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the >>>> parts" >>>> >>>> How so? >>>> >>>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er >>>> blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for >>>> proper tire wear.? The other two are factory fixed >>>> and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even >>>> if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 799720 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 13:04:59 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 20:04:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> References: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> Message-ID: <76005CA2-F09B-420E-9241-0FDFE1D601A2@gmail.com> Okay Bob. As you wish. However, before I sign off, take the nut off the trunnion and see the result (jack stand under the spline hub - latest pic). Just trying to help. Alan - from my iPad > On 6 Jan 2021, at 19:25, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? > It?s a side load on the shock. > > >>> On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey wrote: >>> >> ?Sorry Bob - you?re still not gettin? it. >> The important bit is - >>>> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. >> That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car. >> Then - >>>> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. >> If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand under the spline hub to support the car. Now unwind the the top nut of the kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the bottom the kingpin. If you undo the nut all the way you will drop the car on the deck. >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> >>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> >>> ? re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers." >>> >>> Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the chassis). >>> >>> Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. >>> >>> >>> On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: >>>> Hi Fred. >>>> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the beam. The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. >>>> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring. >>>> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. >>>> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. >>>> Cheers. >>>> AlanB >>>> >>>> >>>> From: Fred Wescoe >>>> Sent: 06 January 2021 15:14 >>>> To: Bluehealey >>>> Cc: Team.net ; Ahealey help >>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle >>>> >>>> Listers, >>>> >>>> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language why this kit would work? >>>> >>>> Thanks, mystified, >>>> >>>> Fred >>>> >>>> 66 BJ8 >>>> >>>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: >>>> These are the ones. >>>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>>> Well worth doing. >>>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >>>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. >>>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >>>> Have fun. >>>> Alan - from my iPad >>>> >>>> >>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >>>> >>>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> >>>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >>>> >>>> How so? >>>> >>>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 6 15:01:20 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 17:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I installed one of David Nock's "timing cover reinforcing ring" last year while replacing the belt and for the first time was able to seal up persistent oil leaks from around the cover. Easy install and well worth the price and effort involved. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Nice idea David, how much are they? > > M > > > On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 11:12 AM David Nock wrote: > >> These washers were there to help distribute the pressure on the timing >> cover >> gasket and help seal. Over the years the cover distorts and they don?t >> work >> as well. So we have made a ring that goes around the timing cover >> completely >> on the 100 and the bottom 2/3 of the 6 cylinder motors. It replaces the >> oval >> washers and helps stop the seeping of the timing cover gaskets. >> >> >> >> David Nock >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> 209 948 8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the >> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites >> by visiting the site at. >> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org >> -----Original Message----- >> From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca >> Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 4:50 AM >> To: pdzwig at summaventures.com ; gradea1 at charter.net ; 'Michael Salter' >> Cc: 'healeylist' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers >> >> For the record, I am pretty sure it is my motor that Mike is working on. >> I >> have a Heritage Certificate which gives the build date as 29 Sept to 6 >> October, 1959. Dispatch date was 13 October. That was for the car, and >> they may have had motors built up and waiting for installation, but it >> ties >> it down fairly closely. >> >> Cheers, Mirek >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig >> Sent: January 4, 2021 5:28 AM >> To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael Salter' >> Cc: 'healeylist' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers >> >> Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's >> mail. >> >> It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine >> stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. >> >> Peter >> >> On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >> > >> > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier >> > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using >> > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but >> > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and >> > match was the order of the day. >> > >> > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard >> > Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. >> > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to >> > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord >> > decreed: >> > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many >> > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and >> > profits. >> > >> > Hank >> > >> > ----------------------------------------- >> > >> > From: "Michael Salter" >> > To: "Skip Saunders" >> > Cc: "healeylist" >> > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail >> > >> > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. >> > >> > image.png >> > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the >> > same) are absolutely parallel. >> > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off >> > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and >> > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? >> > >> > >> > image.png >> > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to >> > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. >> > >> > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things >> > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think >> > about these things. :-) >> > >> > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things >> > but this has me stumped. >> > >> > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. >> > >> > M >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: >> > >> > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of >> > the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular >> > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do >> > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses >> > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) >> > Thanks >> > -skip- >> > >> > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter >> > wrote: >> > >> > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 >> > different types of >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net >> > >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: >> > >> > >> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> > http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> > http://autox.team.net/ >> > mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > >> > http:/ >> > /autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> > donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> > http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >> > >> >> -- >> >> Dr. Peter Dzwig >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation >> $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Wed Jan 6 15:03:47 2021 From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 14:03:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece In-Reply-To: <000001d6e3f6$5a6cad60$0f460820$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000301d6e38a$93255e20$b9701a60$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d6e3f6$5a6cad60$0f460820$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <000001d6e477$d4a395e0$7deac1a0$@shaw.ca> Simon / Mark: When my BJ8 was restored, we made new seat rail packing strips ? intentionally slightly thicker in order to gain a bit more seat movement clearance over the carpet allowing a thicker bit of insulation, which is always desirable in a big Healey. This is a very late BJ8 which had 1/4 inch strips from the factory, so I don?t think that there was a production change. I?m pretty sure that we wound up at 3/8 inches. You should not have to plane down your wood strips. I suggest that you temporarily fit an easy to get to slide, with all hardware, and check that the mounting stud threads are fully engaged on the t nut, or ?near as damnit?. FWIW, we did not re-install the tar paper on this car, instead using a sound deadening, heat insulation concoction of our own design that easily lifts out of the car if the interior gets damp. These pieces (4) consist of 2 layers of non ribbed armacord (hardura?) sewn together with a thin sheet of lead sandwiched between and trimmed to fit tightly into the car. The carpet snap studs are simply fastened to these assemblies, rather than the steel floor. (front only, the rear 2 on each side were deemed to be unnecessary). This system has worked very well for me. I mention it to illustrate that anything you do ? other than as original - with carpet / insulation etc. will affect seat to carpet clearance and possibly turn out to be bothersome. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2021 10:37 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece Hi, Simon, FWIW, some repro wooden packers I purchased from AH Spares are 3/8? thick, whereas the original packers, still in good nick, are ?? I was considering taking the thicker (repro) ones to a cabinetmaker to have him run them through a thicknesser to bring them down to ?? I wonder if there was a change to the greater thickness over the production years. Facts and figures, anyone? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Sent: Wednesday, 6 January 2021 6:46 a.m. To: 'Healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] Seat slide packing piece Still messing around with the slides. One issue being a certain reluctance to commit to welding for the very first time. So, just for my info, how thick are the wooden packing pieces that go under the slides. Mine are 3/8? as near as damnit. Simon -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 19:46:13 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 18:46:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <76005CA2-F09B-420E-9241-0FDFE1D601A2@gmail.com> References: <3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net> <76005CA2-F09B-420E-9241-0FDFE1D601A2@gmail.com> Message-ID: We can agree to disagree. I promise I'll try to figure out how a mechanism designed to move up-and-down with the suspension--offering minor resistance when they're working, and none when they're not--support the weight of the car. On 1/6/2021 12:04 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Okay Bob. > As you wish. However, before I sign off, take the nut off the trunnion > and see the result (jack stand under the spline hub - latest pic). > Just trying to help. > > Alan - from my iPad > >> On 6 Jan 2021, at 19:25, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? >> It?s a side load on the shock. >> >> >>> On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey wrote: >>> >>> ? Sorry Bob - you?re still not gettin? it. >>> The important bit is - >>>>> >>>>> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. >>>>> >>> That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car. >>> Then - >>>>> >>>>> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car >>>>> through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the >>>>> bottom wishbone and spring. >>>>> >>> If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand >>> under the spline hub to support the car. ?Now unwind the the top nut >>> of the kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the >>> bottom the kingpin. ?If you undo the nut all the way you will drop >>> the car on the deck. >>> >>> Alan - from my iPad >>> >>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> >>>> ? re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust >>>> washers." >>>> >>>> Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear >>>> springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several >>>> times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). >>>> Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode >>>> through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few >>>> years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required >>>> (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as >>>> well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock >>>> rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack >>>> under the chassis). >>>> >>>> Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top >>>> trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause >>>> some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large >>>> could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating. >>>> >>>> >>>> On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hi Fred. >>>>> >>>>> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this >>>>> confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with >>>>> pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle >>>>> is captured between fixed top & bottom ?ears? on the end of the >>>>> beam.? The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto >>>>> the swivel axle. All fairly obvious. >>>>> >>>>> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight >>>>> of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel >>>>> and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top >>>>> trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone >>>>> and spring. >>>>> >>>>> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust >>>>> washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends ? >>>>> especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels. >>>>> >>>>> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers. >>>>> >>>>> AlanB >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From:*Fred Wescoe >>>>> *Sent:* 06 January 2021 15:14 >>>>> *To:* Bluehealey >>>>> *Cc:* Team.net ; Ahealey help >>>>> >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle >>>>> >>>>> Listers, >>>>> >>>>> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years >>>>> and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my >>>>> head wrapped around why?replacing bearings at the top of the >>>>> kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. >>>>> It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against >>>>> the bottom of the kingpin.? To me, it seems replacing the top >>>>> bearing would have no effect on the steering effort.? Can someone >>>>> explain in simple language why this kit would work? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, mystified, >>>>> >>>>> Fred >>>>> >>>>> 66 BJ8 >>>>> >>>>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> These are the ones. >>>>> >>>>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Well worth doing. >>>>> >>>>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the >>>>> Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir >>>>> for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing >>>>> the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for >>>>> stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job >>>>> and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>>>> >>>>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design >>>>> was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be >>>>> more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise >>>>> toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong >>>>> (in either direction). >>>>> >>>>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the >>>>> caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your >>>>> findings. The Team may learn something. >>>>> >>>>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is >>>>> bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others >>>>> are on rails.? I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing >>>>> with this on our Big Healeys. >>>>> Have fun. >>>>> >>>>> Alan - from my iPad >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net >>>>> >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust >>>>> bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings >>>>> - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell >>>>> > >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous >>>>> to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the >>>>> parts" >>>>> >>>>> How so? >>>>> >>>>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er >>>>> blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for >>>>> proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed >>>>> and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even >>>>> if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 6 19:53:18 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2021 18:53:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: <7C3456D9-E760-47E9-B03E-33BB4DE8A6FD@gmail.com> <090f2aa5-9fef-e5cb-9481-ecf865772127@comcast.net> Message-ID: <128e2008-ab81-5af7-ea83-ee862b59377f@comcast.net> Point taken, Michael. That's why I bought an alignment kit, so I can test the effects of changes. Several Healey owners run 0deg camber with no issues, and I've seen a couple that appear to have neg. camber (I won't go near that). All my changes can be reversed if I don't like the results. If we shouldn't mess with a 70 year-old suspension design--designed for radial tires--we probably shouldn't be running radials. On 1/6/2021 10:48 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Re: /Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber > is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial > tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). > / > I would have completely agreed with you Bob until I started doing some > basic designing of front suspension systems. > Although changing the camber may seem like a small thing you would be > surprised at how much a small adjustment in any of the suspension > angles of dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" > and "bump steer" each of which can have a profound effect on ride and > handling. > As an example I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel > steering but I don't think that is relevant. > When I bought it fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. > These wheels moved the front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. > The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer > upon the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram > tracking" and incredible tyre wear. > I had another 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the > wheels off that car onto mine. The transformation was absolutely > unbelievable; both the handling problems vanished completely. > I almost managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his > regular wheels for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came > clean by letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on. > Small changes can have VERY LARGE consequences. > M > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spidell > wrote: > > That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although > I've wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot > gets squished out). > > I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought > steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was > confirmation bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install > them on the bottom, load-bearing, trunnion. > > Bob > > ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero > camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for > the radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done > properly). > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 6 21:05:14 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 04:05:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <903096607.8077033.1609992314870@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks everyone for your input.? Job is done.? I used 3M Black Super Weatherstripping and Gasket Adhesive.? The 3M stuff was a little difficult to work with.? It seemed to start drying as soon as it exited the tube.? It did make the job go faster though.? I'm still picking the stuff off my fingers hours later.? Thanks again. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 7:24 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210106_195929.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3868386 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Jan 7 02:35:01 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 20:35:01 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <95493303-445F-4CCF-9F54-67FC9766FD1D@gmail.com> Michael You?re adding in a new variable. ?King pin inclination to contact patch ratio? And that is a handling killer. You ALWAYS want the Imaginary line following your kingpin To hit the road at the centre of your tyre. Always. No known exceptions in a rear wheel drive car. Doesn?t matter if the tyres are 12 inches wide or 4 inches wide - centre of the tyre. Sage logic always says you widen a wheel inwards. Never huge offset outwards. Camber is adjustable by various means - bending shock arms - offset top trunions - Offset bottom trunions - shorter top shock arms Etc. Caster- well that?s harder. Lots harder to change. Castor - You need to move your top shock location, AND move your bottom wishbone location on the chassis. It needs to ?tilt? On a ?jaunty angle? No. I?m too busy / google it. Camber is easy. Castor requires a shitload more cutting and welding. Perfection is 8 degrees negative at 20 degrees turn in for those seeking the ultimate answer, And that means castor at 20 degrees turn in plus static camber = 8 Best Chris > On 7 Jan 2021, at 6:10 am, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Re: Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). > I would have completely agreed with you Bob until I started doing some basic designing of front suspension systems. > Although changing the camber may seem like a small thing you would be surprised at how much a small adjustment in any of the suspension angles of dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" and "bump steer" each of which can have a profound effect on ride and handling. > As an example I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel steering but I don't think that is relevant. > When I bought it fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. These wheels moved the front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. > The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upon the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram tracking" and incredible tyre wear. > I had another 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the wheels off that car onto mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable; both the handling problems vanished completely. > I almost managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his regular wheels for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean by letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on. > Small changes can have VERY LARGE consequences. > M > >> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spidell wrote: >> That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I've wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets squished out). >> >> I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was confirmation bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install them on the bottom, load-bearing, trunnion. >> >> Bob >> >> ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). >> >> >> On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >>> I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately the bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up after about 1 year. >>> Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass. >>> >>> M >>> >>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: >>>> These are the ones. >>>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>>> Well worth doing. >>>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >>>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may learn something. >>>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >>>> Have fun. >>>> Alan - from my iPad >>>> >>>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in the ease of steering. >>>>> >>>>>>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >>>>>> >>>>>> How so? >>>>>> >>>>>>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >>>>>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank >>>>>>> >>>>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 7 05:47:54 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 07:47:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle In-Reply-To: <95493303-445F-4CCF-9F54-67FC9766FD1D@gmail.com> References: <95493303-445F-4CCF-9F54-67FC9766FD1D@gmail.com> Message-ID: Sound right to me Chris. M On Thu., Jan. 7, 2021, 4:35 a.m. Chris Dimmock, wrote: > Michael > You?re adding in a new variable. > ?King pin inclination to contact patch ratio? > And that is a handling killer. > You ALWAYS want the Imaginary line following your kingpin To hit the road > at the centre of your tyre. Always. No known exceptions in a rear wheel > drive car. > Doesn?t matter if the tyres are 12 inches wide or 4 inches wide - centre > of the tyre. > Sage logic always says you widen a wheel inwards. Never huge offset > outwards. > Camber is adjustable by various means > - bending shock arms > - offset top trunions > - Offset bottom trunions > - shorter top shock arms > Etc. > Caster- well that?s harder. Lots harder to change. > Castor - You need to move your top shock location, AND move your bottom > wishbone location on the chassis. > It needs to ?tilt? > On a ?jaunty angle? > No. I?m too busy / google it. > Camber is easy. Castor requires a shitload more cutting and welding. > Perfection is 8 degrees negative at 20 degrees turn in for those seeking > the ultimate answer, And that means castor at 20 degrees turn in plus > static camber = 8 > Best > Chris > > On 7 Jan 2021, at 6:10 am, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Re: > *Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is > recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires > most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). * > I would have completely agreed with you Bob until I started doing some > basic designing of front suspension systems. > Although changing the camber may seem like a small thing you would be > surprised at how much a small adjustment in any of the suspension angles of > dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" and "bump steer" > each of which can have a profound effect on ride and handling. > As an example I have a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel > steering but I don't think that is relevant. > When I bought it fancy alloy replacement wheels had been installed. These > wheels moved the front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. > The car was absolutely horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upon > the application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram tracking" and > incredible tyre wear. > I had another 3000 GT come in for service and as a test fitted the wheels > off that car onto mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable; > both the handling problems vanished completely. > I almost managed to talk the owner of the other 3000 into swapping his > regular wheels for my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean > by letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on. > Small changes can have VERY LARGE consequences. > M > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > >> That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease (although I've >> wondered how well greasing the top trunnion works, as a lot gets squished >> out). >> >> I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I thought >> steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part of it was confirmation >> bias). Agree that it would make more sense to install them on the bottom, >> load-bearing, trunnion. >> >> Bob >> >> ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is >> recommended (newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires >> most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). >> >> >> On 1/6/2021 7:34 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >> >> I installed a couple of sets of those many years ago. Unfortunately the >> bearings were made from carbon steel not stainless and they rusted up after >> about 1 year. >> Hopefully the manufacturers now make them from stainless andor brass. >> >> M >> >> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey wrote: >> >>> These are the ones. >>> >>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx >>> Well worth doing. >>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the Steering >>> Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for oil, and a poor >>> seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball joints that connect to the >>> drop arm to check it for stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isn?t a >>> difficult job and is the best way to clean and lubricate. >>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was good). >>> Camber could go from positive to negative to be more compatible with radial >>> tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This has a radical impact on >>> steering feel when wrong (in either direction). >>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster >>> changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team may >>> learn something. >>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump steer. >>> Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on rails. I?ve never >>> seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on our Big Healeys. >>> Have fun. >>> Alan - from my iPad >>> >>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net wrote: >>> >>> ?When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust bearings at >>> the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings - made a huge difference in >>> the ease of steering. >>> >>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> >>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to play with or >>> maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts" >>> >>> >>> How so? >>> >>> >>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: >>> >>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow" The 1/16-1/8" >>> toe-in is most important for proper tire wear. The other two are factory >>> fixed and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes >>> the parts. Hank >>> >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 7 12:19:50 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 19:19:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> <903096607.8077033.1609992314870@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <128121760.8303440.1610047190364@mail.yahoo.com> Steel. On Thursday, January 7, 2021, 6:15:41 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: Mike,?Just looking at the pic of your boot lid ... is it steel or aluminium?? M On Wed., Jan. 6, 2021, 11:18 p.m. Michael MacLean, wrote: Thanks everyone for your input.? Job is done.? I used 3M Black Super Weatherstripping and Gasket Adhesive.? The 3M stuff was a little difficult to work with.? It seemed to start drying as soon as it exited the tube.? It did make the job go faster though.? I'm still picking the stuff off my fingers hours later.? Thanks again. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 7:24 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 7 12:42:52 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2021 14:42:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk Lid Seal In-Reply-To: <128121760.8303440.1610047190364@mail.yahoo.com> References: <695624079.7688394.1609915620125@mail.yahoo.com> <903096607.8077033.1609992314870@mail.yahoo.com> <128121760.8303440.1610047190364@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Got it. On Thu, Jan 7, 2021 at 2:19 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Steel. > > On Thursday, January 7, 2021, 6:15:41 AM PST, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > Mike, > Just looking at the pic of your boot lid ... is it steel or aluminium? > > M > > On Wed., Jan. 6, 2021, 11:18 p.m. Michael MacLean, < > rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: > > Thanks everyone for your input. Job is done. I used 3M Black Super > Weatherstripping and Gasket Adhesive. The 3M stuff was a little difficult > to work with. It seemed to start drying as soon as it exited the tube. It > did make the job go faster though. I'm still picking the stuff off my > fingers hours later. Thanks again. > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 7:24 AM, Michael Oritt > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Sat Jan 9 07:54:59 2021 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 14:54:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question Message-ID: I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 9 08:11:33 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 16:11:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1fe74278-1e25-4401-1a63-663965c42961@chello.nl> Before cutting, solder the wire with a high power soldering iron around the spot where you will cut. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-1-2021 om 15:54 schreef Leonard Berkowitz: > I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the > jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke > lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are > considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a > problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting > the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. ?I tried > to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone > have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is > installed. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 9 08:22:37 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 10:22:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8a6c8ddf-b889-9422-29e5-4244b7278dc1@earthlink.net> I assume that you're talking about the inner cable unraveling.? A good bicycle shop should be able to cut, or sell you the tool to cut, those cables.? I'll sometimes tin the end with solder to keep it from unraveling.? If the individual wires aren't bent, you can sometimes wind them back in place. https://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10 Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/9/21 9:54 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the > jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke > lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are > considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a > problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting > the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. ?I tried > to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone > have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is > installed. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jan 9 08:39:27 2021 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 10:39:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <045f01d6e69d$9e5ce3b0$db16ab10$@rr.com> There may be special tools available that prevent the cable wires from unwinding after cutting, but I've found it very difficult to solder the cut ends successfully. It's best to thread the new cable entirely through all the necessary holes before cutting it, but I've never had a problem with a too-long cable fouling where I couldn't re-position it to avoid fouling without cutting it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2021 9:55 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Choke question I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 9 08:42:20 2021 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 07:42:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: <8a6c8ddf-b889-9422-29e5-4244b7278dc1@earthlink.net> References: <8a6c8ddf-b889-9422-29e5-4244b7278dc1@earthlink.net> Message-ID: There is a special pair of cutters for cables. Or re twist the cable and put a solder on the end of the cable. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 9, 2021, at 7:28 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > ?I assume that you're talking about the inner cable unraveling. A good bicycle shop should be able to cut, or sell you the tool to cut, those cables. I'll sometimes tin the end with solder to keep it from unraveling. If the individual wires aren't bent, you can sometimes wind them back in place. > > https://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10 > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 1/9/21 9:54 AM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote: >> I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 9 08:52:34 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 10:52:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: <045f01d6e69d$9e5ce3b0$db16ab10$@rr.com> References: <045f01d6e69d$9e5ce3b0$db16ab10$@rr.com> Message-ID: <001901d6e69f$722898a0$5679c9e0$@sympatico.ca> Soldering should not be an issue with a new wound cable. However, on a used cable, that may have some grease on it that will inhibit soldering, clean first with a strong solvent (I use lacquer thinner), then use silver solder. I find the flux that comes in a silver solder kit works much better with a cable that is slightly contaminated. I learned this working on older English bikes that have a lot of control cables and are usually pretty oily! Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: January 9, 2021 10:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Choke question There may be special tools available that prevent the cable wires from unwinding after cutting, but I've found it very difficult to solder the cut ends successfully. It's best to thread the new cable entirely through all the necessary holes before cutting it, but I've never had a problem with a too-long cable fouling where I couldn't re-position it to avoid fouling without cutting it. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2021 9:55 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Choke question I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 09:30:00 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 08:30:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: <001901d6e69f$722898a0$5679c9e0$@sympatico.ca> References: <045f01d6e69d$9e5ce3b0$db16ab10$@rr.com> <001901d6e69f$722898a0$5679c9e0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Bicycle shop could fo it for you or make you one. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sat, Jan 9, 2021, 7:53 AM wrote: > Soldering should not be an issue with a new wound cable. However, on a > used cable, that may have some grease on it that will inhibit soldering, > clean first with a strong solvent (I use lacquer thinner), then use silver > solder. I find the flux that comes in a silver solder kit works much > better with a cable that is slightly contaminated. I learned this working > on older English bikes that have a lot of control cables and are usually > pretty oily! > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *BJ8Healeys > *Sent:* January 9, 2021 10:39 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Choke question > > > > There may be special tools available that prevent the cable wires from > unwinding after cutting, but I?ve found it very difficult to solder the cut > ends successfully. It?s best to thread the new cable entirely through all > the necessary holes before cutting it, but I?ve never had a problem with a > too-long cable fouling where I couldn?t re-position it to avoid fouling > without cutting it. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC USA > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Leonard Berkowitz > *Sent:* Saturday, January 9, 2021 9:55 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Choke question > > > > I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet > assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. > Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably > longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear > carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this > interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it > just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to > shorten the wire before or after it is installed. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 9 09:30:18 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 08:30:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d6e6a4$b82b7890$288269b0$@sbcglobal.net> As many people stated solder can be a problem because of residual oil. I quickly weld the ends by attaching wires to the 12v battery terminal. I then clamp one lead to the cable very near the end and then quickly touch it to the other lead. It takes a little practice. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2021 6:55 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Choke question I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 09:34:09 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 11:34:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wrap the area where you want to cut tightly with a couple of layers of masking tape then cut it slowy either with a cut off wheel or on the corner of the wheel on a bench grinder. Remember measure twice cut once. M On Sat., Jan. 9, 2021, 9:56 a.m. Leonard Berkowitz, wrote: > I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet > assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. > Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably > longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear > carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this > interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it > just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to > shorten the wire before or after it is installed. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 09:39:31 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 11:39:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Back Angle BJ7/8 Message-ID: Has anyone leaned the seat back rearward in a BJ7/8? How far of a recline angle were you able to do before hitting the rear interior quarter panels? Any tips? Thanks, Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 11:29:45 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 10:29:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Choke question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've had good luck doing as Michael suggests using masking tape and a cut-off wheel. I always make sure the rotation of the cutting wheel is in the same direction as the winding of the wire. I also use my thinnest cut-off wheel. On Sat, Jan 9, 2021 at 8:39 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Wrap the area where you want to cut tightly with a couple of layers of > masking tape then cut it slowy either with a cut off wheel or on the corner > of the wheel on a bench grinder. > Remember measure twice cut once. > > M > > On Sat., Jan. 9, 2021, 9:56 a.m. Leonard Berkowitz, < > DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet >> assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines. >> Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably >> longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear >> carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this >> interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and it >> just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to >> shorten the wire before or after it is installed. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 9 11:33:10 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 10:33:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Back Angle BJ7/8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: check the archives I posted a bunch of info and photos a few months back Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sat, Jan 9, 2021 at 8:41 AM HealeyRick wrote: > Has anyone leaned the seat back rearward in a BJ7/8? How far of a recline > angle were you able to do before hitting the rear interior quarter panels? > Any tips? > > Thanks, > > Rick Neville > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Sat Jan 9 11:48:22 2021 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 13:48:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Twisted wire cable cutting pliers Message-ID: <7F6F1015-4A33-4D40-88AD-3B2EA93B79F2@mac.com> I have these and they work great. Highly recommend. Lin https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B07T1CPYW7 Sent from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 9 18:12:02 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2021 17:12:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Twisted wire cable cutting pliers In-Reply-To: <7F6F1015-4A33-4D40-88AD-3B2EA93B79F2@mac.com> References: <7F6F1015-4A33-4D40-88AD-3B2EA93B79F2@mac.com> Message-ID: I have no dog in this hunt, but here's a similar set for $12 less: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCX2LL7/ref=vp_d_ac_sub_sp_pd?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XCX2LL7&pd_rd_w=2axiC&pf_rd_p=32548277-c4b4-4bb6-acd1-177f6f0cf6b9&pf_rd_r=QR9E8MBCG3QKPXZ89H2G&pd_rd_r=54260cdd-af16-4dcf-a0fc-d9d5b348b7ba&pd_rd_wg=c885m On 1/9/2021 10:48 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > I have these and they work great. Highly recommend. > Lin > > https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B07T1CPYW7 > > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 10 14:40:10 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 21:40:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Sun Jan 10 14:54:21 2021 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 21:54:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved Message-ID: Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of using a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drill 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 214352 bytes Desc: drill 1.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: drill 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196594 bytes Desc: drill 2.jpg URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 15:07:20 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 17:07:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, if your BGT is like mine the fuel pump has to lift the fuel up over the rear axle before it reaches the pump. The area over the axle is like a box and the exhaust heat accumulates in that area so with methanol laced fuel it probably gets hot enough to boil the fuel causing the classic "vapour lock". Move to Canada where it is nice and cool so you won't have such issues :-) M On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 4:40 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to > In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch > forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The > fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while > stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to > the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a > minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas > in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and > die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel > pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump > slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a > full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound > like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been > doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run > normal up to now. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 10 15:23:18 2021 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 22:23:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Yep, classic vapor lock. Get some fuel line insulation which might help a bit Regards, Richard C BN7 440 On Jan 10, 2021, at 16:09, Michael Salter wrote: ? Mike, if your BGT is like mine the fuel pump has to lift the fuel up over the rear axle before it reaches the pump. The area over the axle is like a box and the exhaust heat accumulates in that area so with methanol laced fuel it probably gets hot enough to boil the fuel causing the classic "vapour lock". Move to Canada where it is nice and cool so you won't have such issues :-) M On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 4:40 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 10 15:50:56 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 14:50:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004101d6e7a3$103061a0$309124e0$@sbcglobal.net> You should still weld or solder the tip because when the cable is secured with the screw it will smash the cable and cause it to unwind to some degree, either immediately, over time or when you remove the cable as some point. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 1:54 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of using a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 10 15:50:56 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 14:50:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003c01d6e7a3$0f8813b0$2e983b10$@sbcglobal.net> Did you check to see if gas was overflowing from the float due to stuck needle? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 1:40 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 15:55:19 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 17:55:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: And don't go to "In and Out"'s. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 5:09 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Mike, if your BGT is like mine the fuel pump has to lift the fuel up over > the rear axle before it reaches the pump. The area over the axle is like a > box and the exhaust heat accumulates in that area so with methanol laced > fuel it probably gets hot enough to boil the fuel causing the classic > "vapour lock". > Move to Canada where it is nice and cool so you won't have such issues :-) > > M > > On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 4:40 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to >> In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch >> forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The >> fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while >> stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to >> the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a >> minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas >> in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and >> die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel >> pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump >> slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a >> full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound >> like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been >> doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run >> normal up to now. >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 15:55:51 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 17:55:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00b201d6e7a3$bebb74d0$3c325e70$@gmail.com> Hi Len: Looks just like my Dremel with an extension. Their small cut off wheels and improved collet they introduced a few years ago cut steel like going through butter. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 4:54 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of using a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 10 15:59:40 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 22:59:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <003c01d6e7a3$0f8813b0$2e983b10$@sbcglobal.net> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> <003c01d6e7a3$0f8813b0$2e983b10$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <88010525.477994.1610319580804@mail.yahoo.com> Weber Carb and no leaks.M On Sunday, January 10, 2021, 2:51:35 PM PST, John Spaur wrote: #yiv8608832636 #yiv8608832636 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8608832636 #yiv8608832636 p.yiv8608832636MsoNormal, #yiv8608832636 li.yiv8608832636MsoNormal, #yiv8608832636 div.yiv8608832636MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv8608832636 a:link, #yiv8608832636 span.yiv8608832636MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8608832636 a:visited, #yiv8608832636 span.yiv8608832636MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8608832636 span.yiv8608832636EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv8608832636 .yiv8608832636MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv8608832636 div.yiv8608832636WordSection1 {}#yiv8608832636 Did you check to see if gas was overflowing from the float due to stuck needle? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 1:40 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff ? ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 10 16:07:01 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 23:07:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1354223477.486802.1610320021327@mail.yahoo.com> If it is an original pump (I have not looked yet) could the diaphragm be going out sue to the ethanol in this crappy California gas?Mike M On Sunday, January 10, 2021, 2:07:34 PM PST, Michael Salter wrote: Mike, if your BGT is like mine the fuel pump has to lift the fuel up over the rear axle before it reaches the pump. The area over the axle is like a box and the exhaust heat accumulates in that area so with methanol laced fuel it probably gets hot enough to boil the fuel causing the classic "vapour lock". Move to Canada where it is nice and cool so you won't have such issues :-) M On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 4:40 PM Michael MacLean wrote: ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 10 16:40:33 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 15:40:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What I should have mentioned in my post is that you cut through the cable - and the tape- where the tape is wrapped around the cable . That way the cable cannot unwind. On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 1:54 PM Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of > using a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my > regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from > one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill > I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off > disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing > guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just > waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. > Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. > > Len Berkowitz > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Jan 10 17:23:49 2021 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (greylinn at ozemail.com.au) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 10:23:49 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00b201d6e7b0$094b2bb0$1be18310$@ozemail.com.au> ?coming in late on this, I?ve found the best way (apart from a fine cut Dremel disc) is to grip the cable in a pair of sharp side cutters, put these on a hard surface and give the upper jaw a sharp tap with a hammer. In this way the cable end doesn?t fray. Cheers Peter Linn From: Healeys On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Monday, 11 January 2021 9:41 AM To: Leonard Berkowitz Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved What I should have mentioned in my post is that you cut through the cable - and the tape- where the tape is wrapped around the cable . That way the cable cannot unwind. On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 1:54 PM Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of using a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. Len Berkowitz _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jan 11 01:03:50 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 09:03:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0ebef1ef-7646-3509-3ea7-8ce35e19c2de@chello.nl> I could be that the pump valves may be full of dirt from the tank. Is there a fuel filter between tank and pump? Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-1-2021 om 22:40 schreef Michael MacLean: > ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went > to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had > to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in > between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running > out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still > running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to > less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? > There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it > several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts > the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like > mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like > normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float > bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my > fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been > doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has > run normal up to now. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 04:07:42 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 19:07:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You have vapeaueaauaour lock On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 5:41 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to > In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch > forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The > fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while > stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to > the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a > minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas > in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and > die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel > pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump > slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a > full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound > like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been > doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run > normal up to now. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Jan 11 05:13:02 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 12:13:02 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Book Message-ID: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Hi, Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don't want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! Maybe something one stage up from "Engines for Dummies".... I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. Yes, I've got the manuals. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 11 08:04:09 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 10:04:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <00a501d6e82b$04a52d60$0def8820$@sympatico.ca> I have never seen one. MIrek From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 11, 2021 7:13 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Book Hi, Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don't want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! Maybe something one stage up from "Engines for Dummies".... I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. Yes, I've got the manuals. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 4 09:12:12 2021 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 08:12:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca> References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: These washers were there to help distribute the pressure on the timing cover gasket and help seal. Over the years the cover distorts and they don?t work as well. So we have made a ring that goes around the timing cover completely on the 100 and the bottom 2/3 of the 6 cylinder motors. It replaces the oval washers and helps stop the seeping of the timing cover gaskets. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 4:50 AM To: pdzwig at summaventures.com ; gradea1 at charter.net ; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers For the record, I am pretty sure it is my motor that Mike is working on. I have a Heritage Certificate which gives the build date as 29 Sept to 6 October, 1959. Dispatch date was 13 October. That was for the car, and they may have had motors built up and waiting for installation, but it ties it down fairly closely. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: January 4, 2021 5:28 AM To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's mail. It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. Peter On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and > match was the order of the day. > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord > decreed: > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and > profits. > > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > image.png > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the > same) are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > image.png > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think > about these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > but this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 > different types of > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/ > mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http:/ > /autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_0310.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2899767 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 104_0248.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2473957 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jan 11 09:01:51 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 17:01:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <00a501d6e82b$04a52d60$0def8820$@sympatico.ca> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00a501d6e82b$04a52d60$0def8820$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <12bd14e3-524a-9ef7-067d-cb4092accd59@chello.nl> The Haynes workshop manual should do the job. Plenty to be found on Ebay, e.g.: eBay.com (USA) item number: 310681992991 There are many others on eBay.co.uk GB) Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-1-2021 om 16:04 schreef m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca: > > I have never seen one. > > MIrek > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of > *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* January 11, 2021 7:13 AM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Book > > Hi, > > Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? > Preferably, AH 3000 engines! > > The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding > performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by > specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild > process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the > lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts > installed. If you see what I mean! > > Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. > > I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. > > Yes, I?ve got the manuals. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Jan 11 09:32:54 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 16:32:54 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Message-ID: <000001d6e837$6b3159d0$41940d70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Hi, You will recall that I was asking about seat slides? And thank you for your answers. I've done one side. Replaced the big nuts and bolts holding the slides to the floor with the correct "Tee-nuts" and the bolts holding the seat to the slides also. Horrific looking welds but (a) they're strong enough (b) they're hidden (c) I hope to improve with practise. Now, my car is a UK based RHD so I've done the driver's side and am beginning on the passengers side. I was much hindered by the silencer (muffler?) but that came off OK. I was able to get the wretched nuts & bolts off without removing the insulations sheet. There were only 5! One had been replaced by a grommet! (Cretin!) But that sheet will have to come off in order to get the flat washers up against the outside of the floor. So..the sheet was, apparently, held on by - I forget - say, 4 nuts and big flat washers. I took them off easily enough, BUT the sheet won't drop down! It looks as if it's entirely unsupported, no fasteners visible etcetc. It's not wedged under anything. It feels like it's attached to something underneath ie between the sheet and the floor. So far I'm stumped. Has anyone else had this problem. What's going on? I'm trying to get my sheet together and not getting very far. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 11 09:47:47 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 08:47:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <00a501d6e82b$04a52d60$0def8820$@sympatico.ca> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00a501d6e82b$04a52d60$0def8820$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: It disappeared when my GF packed my stuff for a move, but I once had a printout of a build sheet for Healey engines from Huffaker (sp?). It was several pages long and pretty specific; I always thought that if I built a performance engine I'd follow their steps. Maybe someone has a copy? Bob On 1/11/2021 7:04 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > I have never seen one. > > MIrek > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of > *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* January 11, 2021 7:13 AM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Book > > Hi, > > Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? > Preferably, AH 3000 engines! > > The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding > performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by > specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild > process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the > lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts > installed. If you see what I mean! > > Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. > > I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. > > Yes, I?ve got the manuals. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 11 09:52:18 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 11:52:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <000001d6e837$6b3159d0$41940d70$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6e837$6b3159d0$41940d70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <00cc01d6e83a$1fac2190$5f0464b0$@sympatico.ca> Simon, I suspect the sheet has simple "rusted on" to the floor pan. Over time I am sure that lots of water seeps between this sheet and the floor and it is simply stuck. If is the original stuff, remember you are dealing with asbestos! I would be wearing a mask and eye protection and gloves handling it and have a large plastic bag handy to put it in. I would get rid of it, but if is asbestos you may have trouble finding someone to take it. You should not just take it to the tip as it is hazardous waste. I got rid of some about 10 years ago and had a heck of a time find someone who would take it. FYI, I have never put that heat shield above the muffler. It was missing when I bought the car back in '74 and I never replaced it. I have not noticed the heat transfer into the cabin to any appreciable degree and I have a LHD car, so as the driver, I would know. I think that the bottom of the floorboard is better left exposed as to prevent moisture accumulation. I am curious to hear what others have to say on that particular heat shield. I have all the others in place. Cheers, MIrek From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 11, 2021 11:33 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Hi, You will recall that I was asking about seat slides? And thank you for your answers. I've done one side. Replaced the big nuts and bolts holding the slides to the floor with the correct "Tee-nuts" and the bolts holding the seat to the slides also. Horrific looking welds but (a) they're strong enough (b) they're hidden (c) I hope to improve with practise. Now, my car is a UK based RHD so I've done the driver's side and am beginning on the passengers side. I was much hindered by the silencer (muffler?) but that came off OK. I was able to get the wretched nuts & bolts off without removing the insulations sheet. There were only 5! One had been replaced by a grommet! (Cretin!) But that sheet will have to come off in order to get the flat washers up against the outside of the floor. So..the sheet was, apparently, held on by - I forget - say, 4 nuts and big flat washers. I took them off easily enough, BUT the sheet won't drop down! It looks as if it's entirely unsupported, no fasteners visible etcetc. It's not wedged under anything. It feels like it's attached to something underneath ie between the sheet and the floor. So far I'm stumped. Has anyone else had this problem. What's going on? I'm trying to get my sheet together and not getting very far. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Mon Jan 11 10:09:35 2021 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 17:09:35 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Message-ID: <00c901d6e83c$89c5ed20$9d51c760$@btinternet.com> There are six welded studs in the floor which hold the heat shield in place. Behind (above) the heat shield there are square pieces (about 1" square) of insulation to space the insulation off the floor. These will probably be stuck to the floor. Due to the studs one cannot persuade the heat shield from above, but prising next to each removed nut should remove the sheet. The heat shield is indeed asbestos. I have just today got rid of my old heat shield in the UK by taking it to the Council tip, at zero cost. It was necessary to notify them in advance and they sent red bags for the waste, together with a licence for asbestos disposal. I used RCM Siltech board (Fire rated Calcium Silicate board) as a replacement when I made new heat shields. I chose this due to it having the lowest thermal conductivity of any of the similar available boards. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 11 10:11:06 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 09:11:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <00cc01d6e83a$1fac2190$5f0464b0$@sympatico.ca> References: <000001d6e837$6b3159d0$41940d70$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00cc01d6e83a$1fac2190$5f0464b0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <9210c1ca-1ab4-fb2d-5167-17b298184db3@comcast.net> My BJ8 has its original, unmolested (AFAIK) driver-side (LHD) heat shield; I try not to disturb it. I don't think it necessarily traps water, as there's plenty of heat and air above it (it should have spacers, IIRC). I think most cockpit heat comes out the gearbox cover; try driving with a torn or missing shift lever boot sometime (I started carrying a spare after having to drive a couple thousand miles with a torn one). I was lucky; both my Healeys have solid floor pans--the BN2 showed superficial 'pockmarking'--but the photos I've seen of rusty floorboards show both sides rust about the same. The worst rust comes from getting drenched with the hood down and not thoroughly drying the carpets afterward (the fibrous insulation--forget what it's called--might as well be sponge). Bob On 1/11/2021 8:52 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > Simon, I suspect the sheet has simple ?rusted on? to the floor pan.? > Over time I am sure that lots of water seeps between this sheet and > the floor and it is simply stuck. > > If is the original stuff, remember you are dealing with asbestos!? I > would be wearing a mask and eye protection and gloves handling it and > have a large plastic bag handy to put it in.? I would get rid of it, > but if is asbestos you may have trouble finding someone to take it. > ?You should not just take it to the tip as it is hazardous waste.? I > got rid of some about 10 years ago and had a heck of a time find > someone who would take it. > > FYI, I have never put that heat shield above the muffler.? It was > missing when I bought the car back in ?74 and I never replaced it.? I > have not noticed the heat transfer into the cabin to any appreciable > degree and I have a LHD car, so as the driver, I would know.? I think > that the bottom of the floorboard is better left exposed as to prevent > moisture accumulation. > > I am curious to hear what others have to say on that particular heat > shield.? I have all the others in place. > > Cheers, MIrek > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of > *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* January 11, 2021 11:33 AM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Hi, > > You will recall that I was asking about seat slides? And thank you for > your answers. > > I?ve done one side. Replaced the big nuts and bolts holding the slides > to the floor with the correct ?Tee-nuts? and the bolts holding the > seat to the slides also. > > Horrific looking welds but (a) they?re strong enough (b) they?re > hidden (c) I hope to improve with practise. > > Now, my car is a UK based RHD so I?ve done the driver?s side and am > beginning on the passengers side. I was much hindered by the silencer > (muffler?) but that came off OK. I was able to get the wretched nuts & > bolts off without removing the insulations sheet. There were only 5! > One had been replaced by a grommet! (Cretin!) But that sheet will have > to come off in order to get the flat washers up against the outside of > the floor. > > So?.the sheet was, apparently, held on by ? I forget ? say, 4 nuts and > big flat washers. I took them off easily enough, BUT the sheet won?t > drop down! It looks as if it?s entirely unsupported, no fasteners > visible etcetc. It?s not wedged under anything. It feels like it?s > attached to something underneath ie between the sheet and the floor. > > So far I?m stumped. Has anyone else had this problem. What?s going on? > I?m trying to get my sheet together and not getting very far. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 11 10:29:38 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 09:29:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <9210c1ca-1ab4-fb2d-5167-17b298184db3@comcast.net> References: <000001d6e837$6b3159d0$41940d70$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00cc01d6e83a$1fac2190$5f0464b0$@sympatico.ca> <9210c1ca-1ab4-fb2d-5167-17b298184db3@comcast.net> Message-ID: Jute! On 1/11/2021 9:11 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > the fibrous insulation--forget what it's called From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jan 11 12:10:53 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 14:10:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7941.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48866 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From ahbt71 at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 13:58:39 2021 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 13:58:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved In-Reply-To: <00b201d6e7b0$094b2bb0$1be18310$@ozemail.com.au> References: <00b201d6e7b0$094b2bb0$1be18310$@ozemail.com.au> Message-ID: I always buy my cables from a bike shop. Take the end with the lead head and tell the the guy at the shop you want a brake cable with an end as close to this as he's got. Get a handful of ferrules (my bike shop usually just gives them to me) to crimp on the end of the cut cable to keep it from fraying. I give myself a good amount of extra cable so a can cut it a few times right at the ferrule before I need a new cable. On Sun, Jan 10, 2021, 17:24 wrote: > ?coming in late on this, I?ve found the best way (apart from a fine cut > Dremel disc) is to grip the cable in a pair of sharp side cutters, put > these on a hard surface and give the upper jaw a sharp tap with a hammer. > In this way the cable end doesn?t fray. > > > > Cheers > > > > Peter Linn > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *richard > mayor > *Sent:* Monday, 11 January 2021 9:41 AM > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved > > > > What I should have mentioned in my post is that you cut through the cable > - and the tape- where the tape is wrapped around the cable . That way the > cable cannot unwind. > > > > On Sun, Jan 10, 2021 at 1:54 PM Leonard Berkowitz > wrote: > > Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable. The idea of using > a fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea. I had tried using my > regular cut off tool but the cable just unwound. Then I got an idea from > one of your posts. I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill > I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off > disks. Worked like a charm. Cut through the cable and the cable housing > guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems. Now just > waiting to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. > > Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions. > > > > Len Berkowitz > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Mon Jan 11 17:28:10 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 00:28:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Is that French for vapor lock?? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 11:07 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff You have vapeaueaauaour lock On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 5:41 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation. I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG. The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between. The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line. The car was still running. I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm. In a minute or so later the engine just quit. There is over a half tank of gas in the car. I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die. After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad. After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl. No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles. Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 11 17:45:31 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 00:45:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1549850191.949637.1610412331145@mail.yahoo.com> After a cursory inspection today I found a non SU type electric pump.? Looks like a large Facet type, but I can't be sure.? I also found that there are no filters anywhere between the tank to the Weber.? I removed the cylindrical mesh filter in the Weber and it was absolutely clean.? So I started it up cold and for the first time right after start it idled a little over 500 rpm.? Usually with the jets (probably wrong ones) in the Weber startups have not been under 1000 rpm at idle in the past.? The pump was clicking away as normal.? It has rubber type fuel hose on either side of the pump which should not present a problem.Don't want to, but might have to drop the fuel tank and have a look see. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 11, 2021, 4:28:14 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: Is that French for vapor lock??From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 11:07 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff?You have vapeaueaauaour lock On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 5:41 AM Michael MacLean wrote: ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 18:03:52 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 17:03:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <1549850191.949637.1610412331145@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> <1549850191.949637.1610412331145@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rubber fuel lines have been known to appear perfect on the exterior and to be fraying on the inside such that they act like a flow restrictor or even a one-way valve to fuel. Just saying. -Roland On Tue, 12 Jan 2021 00:45:31 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: > After a cursory inspection today I found a non SU type electric pump.? Looks like a large Facet type, but I can't be sure.? I also found that there are no filters anywhere between the tank to the Weber.? I removed the cylindrical mesh filter in the Weber and it was absolutely clean.? So I started it up cold and for the first time right after start it idled a little over 500 rpm.? Usually with the jets (probably wrong ones) in the Weber startups have not been under 1000 rpm at idle in the past.? The pump was clicking away as normal.? It has rubber type fuel hose on either side of the pump which should not present a problem.Don't want to, but might have to drop the fuel tank and have a look see. >Mike MacLean > > On Monday, January 11, 2021, 4:28:14 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Is that French for vapor lock??From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist >Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 11:07 AM >To: Michael MacLean >Cc: Healeys >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff?You have vapeaueaauaour lock >On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 5:41 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > >????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping >fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. >Mike MacLean >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From manifold at telus.net Mon Jan 11 19:37:25 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 18:37:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Simon, I have this article in my archives that may help. If you will be taking the engine completely apart I would suggest finding an engine builder who has successfully "tuned" a number of Healey engines for recommendations and guidance. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 4:13 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Book Hi, Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don't want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! Maybe something one stage up from "Engines for Dummies".... I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. Yes, I've got the manuals. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Building a Competition Engine, or Not.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 65762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 11 21:21:45 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 20:21:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Balancing the pistons, rods and crank really help I did it 40+ years ago and fast road cam. It really helps. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Jan 11, 2021, 6:41 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Simon, > > I have this article in my archives that may help. If you will be taking > the engine completely apart I would suggest finding an engine builder who > has successfully "tuned" a number of Healey engines for recommendations and > guidance. > > Harold > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* Monday, January 11, 2021 4:13 AM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Book > > Hi, > > Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, > AH 3000 engines! > > The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding > performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. > ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be > told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the > nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I > mean! > > Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. > > I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. > > Yes, I?ve got the manuals. > > Thanks, > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Jan 12 02:34:49 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 09:34:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <1739851766.467835.1610314810282.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1739851766.467835.1610314810282@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You're a braver man than me :-) Taking a classic to The In and Out in modern London traffic would not be my idea of fun! An E-type may be though :-) Peter On 12/01/2021 00:28, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > *Sent:* Monday, January 11, 2021 11:07 AM > *To:* Michael MacLean > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff > ? > You have vapeaueaauaour lock > > On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 5:41 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: > > ????? Not a Healey, but my 69 MGB GT is related in operation.? I > went to In N Out for lunch today in my MG.? The line was very long > so I had to inch forward and was stopped numerous times for a few > minutes in between.? The fuel pump started pumping furiously like I > was running out of gas while stopped halfway through the line.? The > car was still running.? I got up to the first window to pay and the > idle dropped to less than 500 rpm.? In a minute or so later the > engine just quit.? There is over a half tank of gas in the car.? I > tried starting it several times, but it would just fire and die.? > After several attempts the car started again, all the while the fuel > pump was going like mad.? After getting out of the line the fuel > pump slowed down like normal and you did not hear it after what I > assume was a full float bowl.? No issues going home the 4 or 5 > miles.? Does that sound like my fuel pump is going out or the tank > pickup is clogged?? It has been doing this "empty tank like" pumping > fast for a while, but the car has run normal up to now. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 04:22:10 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 19:22:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Yes, balancing all the parts individually then collectively on my BJ8 really makes that motor run like a dream. I had the work done at my local street rod engine rebuild shop, they did a brilliant job. On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 12:22 PM i erbs wrote: > Balancing the pistons, rods and crank really help I did it 40+ years ago > and fast road cam. It really helps. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 05:26:51 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 23:26:51 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book. ?Tuning the A Series Engine? I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply to B series and C Series BMC engines. I keep a copy beside my bed. Mostly because I?m an insomniac. ? But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 3.00am, I can check the book.... Chris > On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > ? > Hi, > Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! > The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! > Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. > I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. > Yes, I?ve got the manuals. > Thanks, > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 05:40:30 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 23:40:30 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff Message-ID: <851708FD-9F18-4992-8E70-E0044C6C650E@gmail.com> Is your fuel pump in the engine bay, or at the back, under the guard, near the tank? Pressurized fuel (where the pump is back near the tank) can tolerate engine bay heat far better than non pressurized fuel. As long as the pump isn?t heated, (next to e.g. the exhaust) it?s good. And as long as the fuel is pressurized in the fuel line, it?s fine as well. The problem is when you put the fuel pump in the engine bay, and that means the fuel in the line before the pump isn?t pressurized, and the pump is trying to cope with engine bay temps.. and guess what!!!! Bazinga!! ? > On 12 Jan 2021, at 11:46 am, Michael MacLean wrote: > From ah100tech at gmail.com Tue Jan 12 07:21:18 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 14:21:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <851708FD-9F18-4992-8E70-E0044C6C650E@gmail.com> References: <851708FD-9F18-4992-8E70-E0044C6C650E@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris I agree but there is still the problem with the pump and petrol feed being close to the hot exhaust silencer and pipe. I assume that this why the pipe was routed to the right-hand side of the chassis on later 3000 Keep well On Tue, 12 Jan 2021 at 12:41, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Is your fuel pump in the engine bay, or at the back, under the guard, near > the tank? > Pressurized fuel (where the pump is back near the tank) can tolerate > engine bay heat far better than non pressurized fuel. > As long as the pump isn?t heated, (next to e.g. the exhaust) it?s good. > And as long as the fuel is pressurized in the fuel line, it?s fine as > well. > The problem is when you put the fuel pump in the engine bay, and that > means the fuel in the line before the pump isn?t pressurized, and the pump > is trying to cope with engine bay temps.. > and guess what!!!! > Bazinga!! > ? > > > On 12 Jan 2021, at 11:46 am, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 12 09:46:16 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 16:46:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: References: <851708FD-9F18-4992-8E70-E0044C6C650E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2051841456.1214178.1610469976976@mail.yahoo.com> The fuel pump is screwed to the floor just above the rear axle on the side opposite the exhaust pipe.? The only part of the fuel feed system near any heat is where the steel line enters the engine bay.? The fuel pump itself is a square facet type.? It is larger physically than the Facet in my Bugeye and appears to have been installed quite a while ago by the looks of it.? After my inspection yesterday just to see what kind of pump I had i started the car up for the first time since going to In n Out a few days ago.? Immediately after startup it idled a little over 500 rpm.? Since I bought the car 7 months ago startup has always been followed by an idle of 1000 rpm+. I attribute this high idle to the Weber carb and the difficulty tweaking it with the correct jets and adjustments.? I have put together a set of HS6 SU carbs to replace the Weber.? I'm leaning toward a fuel pump failure so far.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 6:21 AM, john harper wrote: Chris I agree but there is still the problem with the pump and petrol feed being close?to the hot exhaust silencer and pipe. I assume that this why the pipe was routed to the right-hand side of the chassis?on later 3000 Keep well On Tue, 12 Jan 2021 at 12:41, Chris Dimmock wrote: Is your fuel pump in the engine bay, or at the back, under the guard, near the tank? Pressurized fuel (where the pump is back near the tank) can tolerate engine bay heat far better than non pressurized fuel. As long as the pump isn?t heated, (next to e.g. the exhaust) it?s good. And as long as the fuel is pressurized in the fuel line, it?s fine as well. The problem is when you put the fuel pump in the engine bay, and that means the fuel in the line before the pump isn?t pressurized, and the pump is trying to cope with engine bay temps.. and guess what!!!! Bazinga!! ? > On 12 Jan 2021, at 11:46 am, Michael MacLean wrote: > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 12 11:00:27 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 19:00:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Related British Car Stuff In-Reply-To: <2051841456.1214178.1610469976976@mail.yahoo.com> References: <851708FD-9F18-4992-8E70-E0044C6C650E@gmail.com> <2051841456.1214178.1610469976976@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you are replacing the fuel pump go back to the original: SU AUF301 or the modern equivalent Burlen/SU AZX1308. These pumps deliver the correct flow and pressure (3,8psi). The AZX 1307 is often offered as a suitable replacement, it is NOT as the delivery pressure is too low at 2,7psi. The AUF 301 may be 303 or 305, there seems to be a few variations here, the difference is possibly in the fuel line connections.? You can go for one of the two electronic versions, one with a magnet, the other optical thus avoiding failure of the contact points. I would prefer the points type as there is always a possibility to repair it at the road side, being very simple in operation and the electronic versions may not have a fantastic reliability record or so it seems. The points type is very reliable under one condition: /regular use!! / The best is an old properly rebuilt pump with the old 3-ply diaphragm. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-1-2021 om 17:46 schreef Michael MacLean: > The fuel pump is screwed to the floor just above the rear axle on the > side opposite the exhaust pipe.? The only part of the fuel feed system > near any heat is where the steel line enters the engine bay.? The fuel > pump itself is a square facet type.? It is larger physically than the > Facet in my Bugeye and appears to have been installed quite a while > ago by the looks of it.? After my inspection yesterday just to see > what kind of pump I had i started the car up for the first time since > going to In n Out a few days ago.? Immediately after startup it idled > a little over 500 rpm. Since I bought the car 7 months ago startup has > always been followed by an idle of 1000 rpm+. I attribute this high > idle to the Weber carb and the difficulty tweaking it with the correct > jets and adjustments.? I have put together a set of HS6 SU carbs to > replace the Weber.? I'm leaning toward a fuel pump failure so far. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 6:21 AM, john harper > wrote: > Chris > > I agree but there is still the problem with the pump and petrol > feed being close?to the hot exhaust silencer and pipe. > > I assume that this why the pipe was routed to the right-hand side > of the chassis?on later 3000 > > Keep well > > On Tue, 12 Jan 2021 at 12:41, Chris Dimmock > > wrote: > > Is your fuel pump in the engine bay, or at the back, under the > guard, near the tank? > Pressurized fuel (where the pump is back near the tank) can > tolerate engine bay heat far better than non pressurized fuel. > As long as the pump isn?t heated, (next to e.g. the exhaust) > it?s good. > And as long as the fuel is pressurized in the fuel line, it?s > fine as well. > The problem is when you put the fuel pump in the engine bay, > and that means the fuel in the line before the pump isn?t > pressurized, and the pump is trying to cope with engine bay > temps.. > and guess what!!!! > Bazinga!! > ? > > > On 12 Jan 2021, at 11:46 am, Michael MacLean > > wrote: > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Jan 12 21:11:41 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2021 17:11:41 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz> A man after my own heart, Chris. ? And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, Carroll Smith . . . Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win. They?ve been on my shelves for over 40 years and I?ve lost count of how many times I?ve referred to them. There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. It comprises just one sentence. ? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m. To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book. ?Tuning the A Series Engine? I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply to B series and C Series BMC engines. I keep a copy beside my bed. Mostly because I?m an insomniac. ? But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 3.00am, I can check the book.... Chris On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: ? Hi, Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. Yes, I?ve got the manuals. Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 12 21:38:16 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2021 20:38:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: You forgot 'Screw to Win' (aka 'Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners'). Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty of good tips): https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote: > > A man after my own heart, Chris. ? > > And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, > *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win. > > They?ve been on my shelves for over 40 years and I?ve lost count of > how many times I?ve referred to them. > > There is a whole chapter on *Lucas* electrics in one other them. ?It > comprises just one sentence. ? > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > *From:*Chris Dimmock > *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m. > *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book > > In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book. > > ?Tuning the A Series Engine? > > I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply > to B series and C Series BMC engines. > > I keep a copy beside my bed. > > Mostly because I?m an insomniac. > > ? > > But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at > 3.00am, I can check the book.... > > Chris > > On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > wrote: > > ? > > Hi, > > Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? > Preferably, AH 3000 engines! > > The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options > regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be > done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some > rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go > off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have > platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! > > Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. > > I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. > > Yes, I?ve got the manuals. > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jan 13 03:58:44 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2021 05:58:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed Jan 13 18:57:53 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 14:57:53 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Book In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <000601d6ea18$ad1d94c0$0758be40$@xtra.co.nz> Thanks for the intro, Bob. I?d not heard of that publication, even by the handbook?s unofficial title. I don?t know how that one got past me. I purchased Smokey Yunick?s book, in paperback, about the time I bought my first Healey WAY back in 1971. It taught me a lot about head modifications and other stuff that apply just as much to our fours and sixes. Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2021 5:38 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book You forgot 'Screw to Win' (aka 'Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners'). Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty of good tips): https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote: A man after my own heart, Chris. ? And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, Carroll Smith . . . Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win. They?ve been on my shelves for over 40 years and I?ve lost count of how many times I?ve referred to them. There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. It comprises just one sentence. ? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m. To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book. ?Tuning the A Series Engine? I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply to B series and C Series BMC engines. I keep a copy beside my bed. Mostly because I?m an insomniac. ? But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 3.00am, I can check the book.... Chris On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: ? Hi, Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines! The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean! Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???.. I have looked on Google and, so far, failed. Yes, I?ve got the manuals. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 13 20:55:16 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2021 19:55:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 Message-ID: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> Listers, My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? TIA, Bob From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 13 23:07:37 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2021 22:07:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 In-Reply-To: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> References: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> The work around would be to shut off the coolant supply and return lines from the block to the radiator hose. Probably not what you wanted to know. I don't know why you would need to pull the gearbox cover but I have a BT7 and the heater supply and return lines go through the fire wall bulkhead more or less behind the heater box. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 7:55 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 Listers, My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Jan 14 07:44:39 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 14:44:39 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> Message-ID: <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 08:15:41 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 07:15:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 In-Reply-To: <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <4a378ce0-1f5e-2e05-b038-71e16dfe8d2c@comcast.net> The heater has to be dropped far enough to get at the valve and hose on top; pulling the gearbox cover gives an extra couple inches. On 1/13/2021 10:07 PM, John Spaur wrote: > The work around would be to shut off the coolant supply and return lines > from the block to the radiator hose. Probably not what you wanted to know. I > don't know why you would need to pull the gearbox cover but I have a BT7 and > the heater supply and return lines go through the fire wall bulkhead more or > less behind the heater box. > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 7:55 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 > > Listers, > > My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' > position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA > (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? > I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to > pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? > > TIA, > Bob > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Jan 14 08:40:39 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 10:40:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <00ab01d6ea8b$9d10dc90$d73295b0$@sympatico.ca> Great Simon - glad that worked out. I should really think about putting that shield back on my car. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 9:45 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Jan 14 09:12:10 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 11:12:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 In-Reply-To: <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I have to do this job and I?ve been putting it off because I only drive the car in the summer- AND it?s a pain of a job! But I found turning the valve at the block off was not enough to stop the leak. The coolant still creeped up the line and dripped out of the heater valve. You have to bypass the heater entirely, pretty easy, or do the valve replacement. I think that taking the gearbox cover out would give you a little extra room, but I couldn?t do it with the heater in place. There are two slot screws holding it to the top of the heater box, and I just couldn?t get a clear shot at them and administer the required torque. So, one day I?ll drop the heater itself. Hats off to you if you can do it in place! I think Mike Salter said he was able to do this- with a customer watching. Stephen, BJ8 > On Jan 14, 2021, at 1:07 AM, John Spaur wrote: > > The work around would be to shut off the coolant supply and return lines > from the block to the radiator hose. Probably not what you wanted to know. I > don't know why you would need to pull the gearbox cover but I have a BT7 and > the heater supply and return lines go through the fire wall bulkhead more or > less behind the heater box. > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 7:55 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 > > Listers, > > My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' > position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA > (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? > I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to > pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 09:16:27 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 16:16:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com>, <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284224927%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=BWvsvpkIuTD02KqwJGZgvanBbDz4oRXwOTs7XAGPkDc%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=gZc1b0X2a17SeHbgtgAhSAhWY8kfhNWOXDqjQzxJ%2BgU%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=9AzA7snt6BjfC6C8iZJDbyjWstT91o0NhgvVdXx0mVQ%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=nVGj1Y%2F%2BQY5%2Ban9WFE%2FeRJdyqjPx0gcx5%2BHAlVECk10%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=cuMec2EsfSpb7V8z3%2F58eH3UfEmFUhBfd%2FEh9UYFr2E%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Jan 14 09:31:03 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 11:31:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Jean, you?re right it?s the fibres that become airborne that are the danger. It?s difficult to remove the old stuff without creating some dust, so it?s best to play it safe. And you should be using HEPA filters when working with asbestos. They don't make cigarettes with HEPA filters, as far as I know! Stephen > On Jan 14, 2021, at 11:16 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM > To: 'Perry Small' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. > I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. > It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. > I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it > was there when I bought the car back in '96. > Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the > sheet. All suitably masked of course. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Perry Small > > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Simon > Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to > bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. > Perry > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284224927%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=BWvsvpkIuTD02KqwJGZgvanBbDz4oRXwOTs7XAGPkDc%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=gZc1b0X2a17SeHbgtgAhSAhWY8kfhNWOXDqjQzxJ%2BgU%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=9AzA7snt6BjfC6C8iZJDbyjWstT91o0NhgvVdXx0mVQ%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=nVGj1Y%2F%2BQY5%2Ban9WFE%2FeRJdyqjPx0gcx5%2BHAlVECk10%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=cuMec2EsfSpb7V8z3%2F58eH3UfEmFUhBfd%2FEh9UYFr2E%3D&reserved=0 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Jan 14 09:42:01 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 11:42:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com>, <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> I believe it is a bit more than just "dust" as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that's even before they had these "hazmat" suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net %2Fdonate.html &data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb4 35aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284224927%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoi MC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata= BWvsvpkIuTD02KqwJGZgvanBbDz4oRXwOTs7XAGPkDc%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net %2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb4 35aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoi MC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata= gZc1b0X2a17SeHbgtgAhSAhWY8kfhNWOXDqjQzxJ%2BgU%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.n et%2Farchive &data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb4 35aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoi MC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata= 9AzA7snt6BjfC6C8iZJDbyjWstT91o0NhgvVdXx0mVQ%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.n et%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb4 35aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoi MC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata= nVGj1Y%2F%2BQY5%2Ban9WFE%2FeRJdyqjPx0gcx5%2BHAlVECk10%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.n et%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.co m &data=04%7C01%7C%7C624764f75f8948ea474f08d8b89b43e7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb4 35aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637462324284234922%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoi MC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata= cuMec2EsfSpb7V8z3%2F58eH3UfEmFUhBfd%2FEh9UYFr2E%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 09:56:04 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 08:56:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Thanks for the reply. Having the heater on the bench makes for easily replacing the valve, but you still have to wrangle under the dash to get the inlet hose on the valve. I'm wondering if I need to disconnect the hoses in the engine bay so that they can be pulled out far enough to dis/reconnect them (I'm leaning that way)? On 1/14/2021 8:12 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I have to do this job and I?ve been putting it off because I only drive the car in the summer- AND it?s a pain of a job! > But I found turning the valve at the block off was not enough to stop the leak. The coolant still creeped up the line and dripped out of the heater valve. You have to bypass the heater entirely, pretty easy, or do the valve replacement. > > I think that taking the gearbox cover out would give you a little extra room, but I couldn?t do it with the heater in place. > There are two slot screws holding it to the top of the heater box, and I just couldn?t get a clear shot at them and administer the required torque. > So, one day I?ll drop the heater itself. Hats off to you if you can do it in place! I think Mike Salter said he was able to do this- with a customer watching. > > Stephen, BJ8 > >> On Jan 14, 2021, at 1:07 AM, John Spaur wrote: >> >> The work around would be to shut off the coolant supply and return lines >> from the block to the radiator hose. Probably not what you wanted to know. I >> don't know why you would need to pull the gearbox cover but I have a BT7 and >> the heater supply and return lines go through the fire wall bulkhead more or >> less behind the heater box. >> >> John >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 7:55 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 >> >> Listers, >> >> My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' >> position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA >> (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? >> I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to >> pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 10:25:01 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 09:25:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <3583a625-910d-0c44-11de-99cc882189e9@comcast.net> Yep. Asbestos 'dust' is actually tiny/microscopic fibers; this is what makes it so dangerous (the usual cause of mesothelioma). The fibers are small enough to get trapped in the alveoli (air sacs) in the lungs, but too large to be coughed-out (or vice versa). Pretty much any small particulate matter is bad news in the lungs, possibly causing silicosis. Since we've all probably got a lifetime supply of face masks anyway it's probably a good idea to don one--N95 are of course the best--any time you might inhale particles larger than an oxygen molecule and smaller than a marble. When my dad bought our BN2 he went to town on the engine bay with a pressure washer, destroying the panels and leaving wet, fibrous stuff everywhere. If you get one of the asbestos pieces off the car--with proper precautions--it could be reused if properly 'sealed,' using a quality high-temperature paint. Here in California's Central Valley, there is a little-known disease called 'valley fever,' caused by a fungus living in the soil that can be fatal and usually causes some scarring of lung tissue. CA natives like myself probably got it early in life and have some immunity; non-natives can become very sick with it (my uncle, who was born in CA, got it). The prison industry is big in CA, and imprisoned non-natives are susceptible to it. My retired Marine Lt. Colonel cousin told me a Marine got very sick and the drs. were stumped; he suggested valley fever and the Marine was treated for that and survived. Also, the hunta virus is present in the Southwest, and some parts of CA. I keep my smaller Healey parts in an old dresser; yesterday I opened a drawer and a mouse jumped up on the side. I contemplated grabbing him and, err, 'euthanizing' him, but thoughts of hunta, rabies, etc. caused momentary paralysis and he made good on his escape. On 1/14/2021 8:16 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is > dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a > friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of > even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield > and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. > Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily > which eventually and unfortunately took his life. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 8:47 AM > *To: *'Perry Small' > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. > I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less > gentle. > It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. > I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, > but it > was there when I bought the car back in '96. > Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the > sheet. All suitably masked of course. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Simon > Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been > known to > bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. > Perry > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 10:44:31 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 09:44:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting > it.? Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic > components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling.? > The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled.? They > can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, > after the job is finished.? I am no expert, but suspect a short, > once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even > a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. > > What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a > gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the > first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air > hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc.? Of > course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these > clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to > enjoy. > > Cheers, Mirek > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *Jean Caron > *Sent:* January 14, 2021 11:16 AM > *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is > dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a > friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of > even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield > and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. > Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily > which eventually and unfortunately took his life. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 8:47 AM > *To: *'Perry Small' > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. > I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less > gentle. > It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. > I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, > but it > was there when I bought the car back in '96. > Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the > sheet. All suitably masked of course. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Perry Small > > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Simon > Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been > known to > bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. > Perry > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 14 11:15:44 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 18:15:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 In-Reply-To: <4a378ce0-1f5e-2e05-b038-71e16dfe8d2c@comcast.net> References: <81d5dffb-b2ad-4f65-c54a-c2c16b81de59@comcast.net> <000001d6ea3b$8f403c50$adc0b4f0$@sbcglobal.net> <4a378ce0-1f5e-2e05-b038-71e16dfe8d2c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1857233125.2179126.1610648144753@mail.yahoo.com> An added note on this subject.? If you are changing of just repairing the heater valve and have dropped the heater assembly, now is the time to replace the heater hoses. Attach the hoses and the valve control cable to the heater / valve, and push the end of the hoses through the firewall prior to lifting the healer into place. Don't forget the firewall grommets. I usually remove the right side seat to make a little more room.? > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Heater Valve on BJ8 > > Listers, > > My heater valve sprung a leak (ironically, when it's in the 'off' > position). I've replaced it before, and remember it being a real PITA > (underdash work is my least favorite). Anyone have some tips or workarounds? > I have a radio, so it's gotta come out--not a big deal--but do I have to > pull the gearbox cover (a bit bigger deal)? > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Thu Jan 14 11:20:27 2021 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 13:20:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers Message-ID: Listers, What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros and cons on using one? Fred 66 BJ 8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Jan 14 12:07:40 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 19:07:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma Message-ID: <5f4e962c9fd097c5a9d1c662576aac4b8bf43a20@webmail> You can, for sure, bet that the guys who cut and applied all those asbestos panels to our Healeys are long gone. I found the best substitute for those hairy items is 5/16" HardiPlank soffit material-which also should be used carefully when cutting; using a mask and gloves and eye protection as well-but it does not flake off and looks original. I lost two brother-in-laws, who were both in the Navy, to that...working in the boiler room. There is a super fund to pay off the surviving families, but wives of the victims could get it just doing the laundry! Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 10:02:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Jean Caron SENT: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 FROM: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com SENT: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM TO: 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry Links: ------ [1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: proper exhaust.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 573711 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jan 14 12:23:32 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 20:23:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I do not know what is the best trickle charger. There are plenty of makes and types about for all kinds of money. I use one of the CTEK trickle chargers (cost me less that $20 at the time). The ($50) battery in my Jensen-Healey was replaced in 2008 and is still in perfect condition. Whenever the car is in the garage for longer than a few days it is connented up to the CTEK. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2021 om 19:20 schreef Fred Wescoe: > Listers, > > What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in?? > Pros?and cons on using one? > > > Fred > > 66 BJ 8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 12:23:46 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 11:23:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> You don't want a trickle charger (unless you're willing to constantly monitor the battery's state of charge; otherwise they can overcharge and 'cook' your battery--ask me how I know ;). You want a 'smart charger.' There was a time I would have recommended BatteryMinder, but the last one I bought was lighter than the 3 I'd bought previously; I think they went solid state over good ol' transformers, and it hasn't performed well compared to the older ones. I bought a BM (heh) for AGM (only) 12V batteries--I have AGMs in my BJ8 and some in yard/farm equipment--and it's well-made and performs well (in particular, the cheaper ones have flimsy connectors that often get chewed-up due to arcing). BatteryTender is the main competition; I haven't used any but haven't seen any negative comments on them. Harbor Freight sells one but, again, I have no experience with it: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html A trickle charger won't turn itself off; the good tenders monitor the voltage closely and maintain a 'float' charge; some also have desulfation capability which can sometimes resurrect a 'dead' battery: https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/battery-desulfation/ There are no 'cons' to using a good smart charger--except that you have to remember to hook them up--used regularly they can extend the life and usefulness of lead-acid batteries. Bob On 1/14/2021 10:20 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in?? > Pros?and cons on using one? > > > Fred > > 66 BJ 8 > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 13:56:34 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 20:56:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca>, <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have an open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is located south east of Montreal. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 14, 2021 12:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 14:22:27 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 13:22:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <91ba41a7-d87e-20a3-fec0-84d443bb2ea7@comcast.net> It was mentioned on a TV show a while back; IIRC, some residents wanted to change its name, but some didn't. Didn't look like it'd be much of a tourist destination, no matter what it's called. On 1/14/2021 12:56 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have > an open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is > located south east of Montreal. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 12:02 PM > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he > contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe > he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in > the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was > assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with > asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the > dangers of asbestos were widely known. > > I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its > entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly > abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One > was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but > never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he > should buy a ticket. > > On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > wrote: > > I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting > it.? Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of > microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even > simple handling.? The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are > easily inhaled.? They can also adhere to your skin and clothing > and be transferred later, after the job is finished.? I am no > expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are > probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure > is easily prevented. > > What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in > a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, > the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take > an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing > plate etc.? Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it > back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would > fill the shop for us all to enjoy. > > Cheers, Mirek > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *Jean Caron > *Sent:* January 14, 2021 11:16 AM > *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > ; 'Perry Small' > > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is > dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a > friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid > of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a > shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? > suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes > daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail > > for Windows 10 > > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 8:47 AM > *To: *'Perry Small' > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. > I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather > less gentle. > It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. > I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good > condition, but it > was there when I bought the car back in '96. > Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and > reinstall the > sheet. All suitably masked of course. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Perry Small > > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Simon > Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been > known to > bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them > loose. > Perry > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 14:26:05 2021 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 21:26:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> References: , <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> Message-ID: I have been using 4 battery tenders for years on my various cars. My Healey battery is now 10 years old. AGM batteries are getting popular but I don?t have one currently. I did have one on a race car, smaller and lighter and had no issue and didn?t need a tender on it. Regards, Richard C BN7 440 > On Jan 14, 2021, at 13:44, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ?You don't want a trickle charger (unless you're willing to constantly monitor the battery's state of charge; otherwise they can overcharge and 'cook' your battery--ask me how I know ;). You want a 'smart charger.' > > There was a time I would have recommended BatteryMinder, but the last one I bought was lighter than the 3 I'd bought previously; I think they went solid state over good ol' transformers, and it hasn't performed well compared to the older ones. I bought a BM (heh) for AGM (only) 12V batteries--I have AGMs in my BJ8 and some in yard/farm equipment--and it's well-made and performs well (in particular, the cheaper ones have flimsy connectors that often get chewed-up due to arcing). BatteryTender is the main competition; I haven't used any but haven't seen any negative comments on them. Harbor Freight sells one but, again, I have no experience with it: > > https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html > > A trickle charger won't turn itself off; the good tenders monitor the voltage closely and maintain a 'float' charge; some also have desulfation capability which can sometimes resurrect a 'dead' battery: > > https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/battery-desulfation/ > > There are no 'cons' to using a good smart charger--except that you have to remember to hook them up--used regularly they can extend the life and usefulness of lead-acid batteries. > > Bob > > >> On 1/14/2021 10:20 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: >> Listers, >> >> What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros and cons on using one? >> >> >> Fred >> >> 66 BJ 8 >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 14 14:55:17 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 13:55:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003f01d6eabf$f2820a30$d7861e90$@sbcglobal.net> The lighter weight battery tender has worked well for me. I also have a jump starter that has worked well too. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 10:20 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers Listers, What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros and cons on using one? Fred 66 BJ 8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BatteryTender.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3199343 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JumpStarter.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3350472 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Jan 14 14:59:41 2021 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 13:59:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> References: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004f01d6eac0$90020440$b0060cc0$@roadrunner.com> I use Battery Tenders on my truck and Healey and are very happy with them. Battery Tenders monitor and float the charge so prevent overcharging. They come with either a plug or large alligator clip connection. I've run a pigtail into the boot of the Healey (I've a BN7 so the battery is not in the boot), and I've a pigtail out the grill and under the rear bumper of my truck to make plugging them in convenient. Very happy with them. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trickle chargers You don't want a trickle charger (unless you're willing to constantly monitor the battery's state of charge; otherwise they can overcharge and 'cook' your battery--ask me how I know ;). You want a 'smart charger.' There was a time I would have recommended BatteryMinder, but the last one I bought was lighter than the 3 I'd bought previously; I think they went solid state over good ol' transformers, and it hasn't performed well compared to the older ones. I bought a BM (heh) for AGM (only) 12V batteries--I have AGMs in my BJ8 and some in yard/farm equipment--and it's well-made and performs well (in particular, the cheaper ones have flimsy connectors that often get chewed-up due to arcing). BatteryTender is the main competition; I haven't used any but haven't seen any negative comments on them. Harbor Freight sells one but, again, I have no experience with it: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html A trickle charger won't turn itself off; the good tenders monitor the voltage closely and maintain a 'float' charge; some also have desulfation capability which can sometimes resurrect a 'dead' battery: https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/battery-desulfation/ There are no 'cons' to using a good smart charger--except that you have to remember to hook them up--used regularly they can extend the life and usefulness of lead-acid batteries. Bob On 1/14/2021 10:20 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros > and cons on using one? > > > Fred > > 66 BJ 8 > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Jan 14 15:03:58 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 22:03:58 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001b01d6eac1$299b0020$7cd10060$@alexarevel.plus.com> When I was a student, various of my friends had Healeys, TRs and similar. Also an E-Type which proved to be lethal. I wanted a Healey. At about the same time, my father made me an offer. Same offer I made to my kids ?If you want a car, get a job and earn some money. I?ll match whatever you earn and you?ll be able to get something half way decent.? I replied that I wanted an AH3000 to which he, quite sensibly, said, ?OK. You?re on your own?. We lived in Surrey so not many places where a student could make any serious money. ?Temple Tubes? was the top choice. Manufacturer of sewage pipes to the gentry! Basically, they took old paper and minced it into a pulp with water and the magic ingredient. The pulp was then rolled out on to 8 ft rollers which were dried in a long oven and then soaked in boiling pitch. The magic ingredient was, as you?ve guessed, asbestos powder. Students were often given the bum jobs and one of my tasks was to unload the 100lb paper sacks of asbestos powder from trucks onto a kind of mezzanine above the mixer. The stuff came, I think, from Canada and was in a shocking condition. Bags all split and powder everywhere. Masks? Gloves? You jest. There was some consciousness that asbestos was ?a bad thing? but we gathered that our stuff was ?Blue?, which was OK, not ?White? which was not OK. Or was it the other way round? Anyhow, wish me luck! Oh, and I did get my 3000. ?400:00 if I remember it right. It was a MkII BT7, sideshift. Colarado Red. Lousy gearbox, rotten interior. But I loved it. It didn?t appear to be a mutual love affair. It caught fire as I was driving onto the Holyhead to Dublin ferry. And a rear wire wheel collapsed big time whilst cornering too fast. As to Steve McQueen, I recall various RN warships of the era, asbestos lagging everywhere. I recall Dad saying that the ships galleys ran on ?super-heated steam? from the engine room. Which is why they had cold food when closed down on action stations. Rather them than me. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 14 January 2021 17:45 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com ; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 15:49:48 2021 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 22:49:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <001b01d6eac1$299b0020$7cd10060$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net>, <001b01d6eac1$299b0020$7cd10060$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Back in the 60's and 70's when I was a Merchant marine ship officer we would load bulk and bagged asbestos in east Africa and discharge in ports on the US gulf ports; dust everywhere, etc. Some longshoremen wore handkerchiefs over their faces but not much; When done we'd go sweep the bottom of the hatch and load whatever on top for export. Knock on wood ( I think), my exposure to asbestos, fiberglass dust, mahogany dust, agent orange in Viet Nam, etc. hasn't hit me yet. But I do wear masks now for paint, Covid, sanding wood and fiberglass etc but no white suits so far. Regards, Richard C ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 2:03 PM Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet When I was a student, various of my friends had Healeys, TRs and similar. Also an E-Type which proved to be lethal. I wanted a Healey. At about the same time, my father made me an offer. Same offer I made to my kids? ?If you want a car, get a job and earn some money. I?ll match whatever you earn and you?ll be able to get something half way decent.? I replied that I wanted an AH3000 to which he, quite sensibly, said, ?OK. You?re on your own?. We lived in Surrey so not many places where a student could make any serious money. ?Temple Tubes? was the top choice. Manufacturer of sewage pipes to the gentry! Basically, they took old paper and minced it into a pulp with water and the magic ingredient. The pulp was then rolled out on to 8 ft rollers which were dried in a long oven and then soaked in boiling pitch. The magic ingredient was, as you?ve guessed, asbestos powder. Students were often given the bum jobs and one of my tasks was to unload the 100lb paper sacks of asbestos powder from trucks onto a kind of mezzanine above the mixer. The stuff came, I think, from Canada and was in a shocking condition. Bags all split and powder everywhere. Masks? Gloves? You jest. There was some consciousness that asbestos was ?a bad thing? but we gathered that our stuff was ?Blue?, which was OK, not ?White? which was not OK. Or was it the other way round? Anyhow, wish me luck! Oh, and I did get my 3000. ?400:00 if I remember it right. It was a MkII BT7, sideshift. Colarado Red. Lousy gearbox, rotten interior. But I loved it. It didn?t appear to be a mutual love affair. It caught fire as I was driving onto the Holyhead to Dublin ferry. And a rear wire wheel collapsed big time whilst cornering too fast. As to Steve McQueen, I recall various RN warships of the era, asbestos lagging everywhere. I recall Dad saying that the ships galleys ran on ?super-heated steam? from the engine room. Which is why they had cold food when closed down on action stations. Rather them than me. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 14 January 2021 17:45 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 16:12:01 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 23:12:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: <003f01d6eabf$f2820a30$d7861e90$@sbcglobal.net> References: , <003f01d6eabf$f2820a30$d7861e90$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I have been using a Schumacher battery charger with float-mode monitoring for 15 years at least with no problems. I got 12 years on the first battery. Present battery is 4 or 5 years old. It says on the box, "Charger maintains the battery when fully charged. Resumes continuous charging when battery becomes discharged". So basically a "float charger" but I don't know what the difference is between a float charger and a tender. Probably marketing. I connect it every time I bring the Healey home. Rich ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Spaur Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 1:55 PM To: 'Fred Wescoe' ; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trickle chargers The lighter weight battery tender has worked well for me. I also have a jump starter that has worked well too. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 10:20 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers Listers, What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros and cons on using one? Fred 66 BJ 8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 14 16:12:19 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 23:12:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: <004f01d6eac0$90020440$b0060cc0$@roadrunner.com> References: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> <004f01d6eac0$90020440$b0060cc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1524361051.67280.1610665939671@mail.yahoo.com> I use Battery Minder maintainers.? The one I use on the Healeys tells you the state of charge when you hook it up and goes into charge mode.? It automatically will convert to float charge when the battery is near full.? Of course it also has a desulfation mode built in also.? Works great and you can leave it connected for long periods with no adverse effects other than a fully charged battery.? I use lead acid batteries because I can get reconditioned ones from the Interstate store for around $45.? They seem to last as long as a new one and the store is only 5 min away.? The other charger I use is also from the same manufacturer, but it is the newer solid state "light" model.? It is also smaller with less features, but it also sulfates and changes modes automatically as required to charge batteries.? I use the small one primarily on my Harley.? See below. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Jan 14, 2021 at 2:35 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: I use Battery Tenders on my truck and Healey and are very happy with them.? Battery Tenders monitor and float the charge so prevent overcharging.? They come with either a plug or large alligator clip connection.? I've run a pigtail into the boot of the Healey (I've a BN7 so the battery is not in the boot), and I've a pigtail out the grill and under the rear bumper of my truck to make plugging them in convenient.? Very happy with them. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trickle chargers You don't want a trickle charger (unless you're willing to constantly monitor the battery's state of charge; otherwise they can overcharge and 'cook' your battery--ask me how I know ;). You want a 'smart charger.' There was a time I would have recommended BatteryMinder, but the last one I bought was lighter than the 3 I'd bought previously; I think they went solid state over good ol' transformers, and it hasn't performed well compared to the older ones. I bought a BM (heh) for AGM (only) 12V batteries--I have AGMs in my BJ8 and some in yard/farm equipment--and it's well-made and performs well (in particular, the cheaper ones have flimsy connectors that often get chewed-up due to arcing). BatteryTender is the main competition; I haven't used any but haven't seen any negative comments on them. Harbor Freight sells one but, again, I have no experience with it: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html A trickle charger won't turn itself off; the good tenders monitor the voltage closely and maintain a 'float' charge; some also have desulfation capability which can sometimes resurrect a 'dead' battery: https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/battery-desulfation/ There are no 'cons' to using a good smart charger--except that you have to remember to hook them up--used regularly they can extend the life and usefulness of lead-acid batteries. Bob On 1/14/2021 10:20 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros > and cons on using one? > > > Fred > > 66 BJ 8 > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: 20210114_150055.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3919803 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Thu Jan 14 16:18:19 2021 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 10:18:19 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma In-Reply-To: <5f4e962c9fd097c5a9d1c662576aac4b8bf43a20@webmail> References: <5f4e962c9fd097c5a9d1c662576aac4b8bf43a20@webmail> Message-ID: <4B85FBA31D1148418DA66FA9757C271A@msiallinone> Hank Looks a bit like the white ants got into the firewall panel The rocker panel also looks as though it needs replacement Memories Graeme M ( BJ8 ) Affectionely known as the Fred Flinstone Car From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Friday, January 15, 2021 6:07 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma You can, for sure, bet that the guys who cut and applied all those asbestos panels to our Healeys are long gone. I found the best substitute for those hairy items is 5/16" HardiPlank soffit material-which also should be used carefully when cutting; using a mask and gloves and eye protection as well-but it does not flake off and looks original. I lost two brother-in-laws, who were both in the Navy, to that...working in the boiler room. There is a super fund to pay off the surviving families, but wives of the victims could get it just doing the laundry! Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 10:02:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 14 16:20:26 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 18:20:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca> <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: I believe that I recently read that Asbestos recently was contemplating having a name change. M On Thu., Jan. 14, 2021, 4:02 p.m. Jean Caron, < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have an > open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is located > south east of Montreal. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 12:02 PM > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > > > Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he > contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he > campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the > Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned > to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't > an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were > widely known. > > I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire > revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for > good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who > had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they > have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. > > On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. > Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components > that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic > fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to > your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is > finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure > are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is > easily prevented. > > > > What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas > station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing > they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the > brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material > had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black > asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > > > *From:* Healeys > *On Behalf Of *Jean Caron > *Sent:* January 14, 2021 11:16 AM > *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' > > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > > > I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, > not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these > on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these > panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even > before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack > and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his > life. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail > > for Windows 10 > > > > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent: *January 14, 2021 8:47 AM > *To: *'Perry Small' > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > > > Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. > I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less > gentle. > It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. > I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but > it > was there when I bought the car back in '96. > Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the > sheet. All suitably masked of course. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet > > Simon > Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to > bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. > Perry > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 14 17:25:33 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 16:25:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trickle chargers In-Reply-To: <1524361051.67280.1610665939671@mail.yahoo.com> References: <665a6e79-0684-0d89-efc7-d9bee3bb13d1@comcast.net> <004f01d6eac0$90020440$b0060cc0$@roadrunner.com> <1524361051.67280.1610665939671@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <92fd3caa-6ce5-dee0-923c-2d5edc3f8bba@comcast.net> I don't think you can go wrong with BT, BM or Schumaker. Heck, the Harbor Freight model might be OK; I wouldn't be shocked if they all came from the same Chinese factory. Some will charge multiple batteries at a time. Good summary of batteries and chargers here: https://itstillruns.com/difference-float-charger-trickle-charger-7646389.html I got a good--read: expensive--SLA/AGM battery for my BJ8 after the second time I had to remove my gas tank and acid-neutralize my boot. My AGM charger looks just like your larger one, except it says 'AGM Only' on it. The other one is the newer, lighter one I have; guess I'll have to give it a second chance (could be my fault, I think I tried to charge an AGM with it). I have an old-school trickle charger in good nick; anyone who wants it can stop by my mom's house (it's not worth shipping). On 1/14/2021 3:12 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I use Battery Minder maintainers.? The one I use on the Healeys tells > you the state of charge when you hook it up and goes into charge > mode.? It automatically will convert to float charge when the battery > is near full.? Of course it also has a desulfation > mode built in also.? Works great and you can leave it connected for > long periods with no adverse effects other than a fully charged > battery.? I use lead acid batteries because I can get reconditioned > ones from the Interstate store for around $45.? They seem to last as > long as a new one and the store is only 5 min away.? The other charger > I use is also from the same manufacturer, but it is the newer solid > state "light" model.? It is also smaller with less features, but it > also sulfates and changes modes automatically as required to charge > batteries.? I use the small one primarily on my Harley.? See below. > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Thu, Jan 14, 2021 at 2:35 PM, Bruce Steele > wrote: > I use Battery Tenders on my truck and Healey and are very happy > with them.? Battery Tenders monitor and float the charge so > prevent overcharging. They come with either a plug or large > alligator clip connection.? I've run a pigtail into the boot of > the Healey (I've a BN7 so the battery is not in the boot), and > I've a pigtail out the grill and under the rear bumper of my truck > to make plugging them in convenient.? Very happy with them. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 11:24 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trickle chargers > > You don't want a trickle charger (unless you're willing to > constantly monitor the battery's state of charge; otherwise they > can overcharge and 'cook' your battery--ask me how I know ;). You > want a 'smart charger.' > > There was a time I would have recommended BatteryMinder, but the > last one I bought was lighter than the 3 I'd bought previously; I > think they went solid state over good ol' transformers, and it > hasn't performed well compared to the older ones. I bought a BM > (heh) for AGM (only) 12V batteries--I have AGMs in my BJ8 and some > in yard/farm equipment--and it's well-made and performs well (in > particular, the cheaper ones have flimsy connectors that often get > chewed-up due to arcing). BatteryTender is the main competition; I > haven't used any but haven't seen any negative comments on them. > Harbor Freight sells one but, again, I have no experience with it: > > https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html > > > A trickle charger won't turn itself off; the good tenders monitor > the voltage closely and maintain a 'float' charge; some also have > desulfation capability which can sometimes resurrect a 'dead' battery: > > https://www.upsbatterycenter.com/blog/battery-desulfation/ > > > There are no 'cons' to using a good smart charger--except that you > have to remember to hook them up--used regularly they can extend > the life and usefulness of lead-acid batteries. > > Bob > > > On 1/14/2021 10:20 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Listers, > > > > What is the thinking on the best trickle charger to invest in? Pros > > and cons on using one? > > > > > > Fred > > > > 66 BJ 8 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu Jan 14 17:37:34 2021 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 16:37:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca>, <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000801d6ead6$9fc77c00$df567400$@cox.net> Naturally occurring asbestos is all over the place between Henderson and Boulder City, and was a concern when they recently built the Boulder City bypass. https://www.enr.com/articles/42221-natural-asbestos-tamed-on-interstate-proj ect?v=preview From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 12:57 PM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have an open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is located south east of Montreal. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 14, 2021 12:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just "dust" as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com ; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that's even before they had these "hazmat" suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Jan 14 19:27:19 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 02:27:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos panels Message-ID: Sorry, that was the wrong photo...all that got replaced thanks to Kilmartin. I was trying to show a Hardiplank panel in place. A sheet was eventually added above the muffler. Here is the correct picture. Note that early 100s did not have a panel on the top of the footwell, just on the lower front and side. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Graeme Molony" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 3:18:21PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma Hank Looks a bit like the white ants got into the firewall panel The rocker panel also looks as though it needs replacement Memories Graeme M ( BJ8 ) Affectionely known as the Fred Flinstone Car FROM: gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Friday, January 15, 2021 6:07 AM TO: 'Bob Spidell' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma You can, for sure, bet that the guys who cut and applied all those asbestos panels to our Healeys are long gone. I found the best substitute for those hairy items is 5/16" HardiPlank soffit material-which also should be used carefully when cutting; using a mask and gloves and eye protection as well-but it does not flake off and looks original. I lost two brother-in-laws, who were both in the Navy, to that...working in the boiler room. There is a super fund to pay off the surviving families, but wives of the victims could get it just doing the laundry! Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 10:02:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Jean Caron SENT: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 FROM: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com SENT: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM TO: 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry ------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [3] http://autox.team.net/archive [4] Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [5] Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com [6] Links: ------ [1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://autox.team.net/archive [5] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: engine LF.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 644018 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Jan 14 19:30:05 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 02:30:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: asbestos panels Message-ID: <30ad9c1c71bb94f625a2d7c81185c34fcaac52e9@webmail> Sorry, that was the wrong photo...all that got replaced thanks to Kilmartin. I was trying to show a Hardiplank panel in place. A sheet was eventually added above the muffler. Here is the correct picture with panel on right. Note that early 100s did not have a panel on the top of the footwell, just on the lower front and side. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Graeme Molony" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 3:18:21PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma Hank Looks a bit like the white ants got into the firewall panel The rocker panel also looks as though it needs replacement Memories Graeme M ( BJ8 ) Affectionely known as the Fred Flinstone Car FROM: gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Friday, January 15, 2021 6:07 AM TO: 'Bob Spidell' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma You can, for sure, bet that the guys who cut and applied all those asbestos panels to our Healeys are long gone. I found the best substitute for those hairy items is 5/16" HardiPlank soffit material-which also should be used carefully when cutting; using a mask and gloves and eye protection as well-but it does not flake off and looks original. I lost two brother-in-laws, who were both in the Navy, to that...working in the boiler room. There is a super fund to pay off the surviving families, but wives of the victims could get it just doing the laundry! Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 10:02:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Jean Caron SENT: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 FROM: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com SENT: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM TO: 'Perry Small' CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry ------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] [6]http://autox.team.net/archive [7] Healeys at autox.team.net [8]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] Unsubscribe/Manage: [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com [11] Links: ------ [1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: engine LF.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 644018 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 14 23:26:01 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 06:26:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fan Belt References: <1065263661.205058.1610691961555.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1065263661.205058.1610691961555@mail.yahoo.com> The OEM type fan belt that I bought from Moss arrived today.? I tried to fit it to the engine this evening.? Well, it seems to be too big!? The adjustment of the generator is all the way out and the fan belt is loose.? Moss part number 021-066.? All the pulleys are the correct size originals.? What am I missing here?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210114_221947.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3466997 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 14 23:27:31 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 22:27:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca>, <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <008701d6eb07$81fa95f0$85efc1d0$@sbcglobal.net> It looks like the entire town is a mine! John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 12:57 PM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have an open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is located south east of Montreal. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 14, 2021 12:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just "dust" as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com ; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that's even before they had these "hazmat" suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Fri Jan 15 04:20:47 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 11:20:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <1065263661.205058.1610691961555@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1065263661.205058.1610691961555.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1065263661.205058.1610691961555@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael Your generator pulley looks to be correct but the belt not only looks to be too large but sits too deep in the pulley. Ferodo V150 is one example of a correct belt 3/4" Top width, 44 19/64" Inside circumference 47 7/16" Outside circumference 1/2" Thickness 32 deg Angle 32 degree angle belt is important but not easy to locate A word of warning if I may. If the generator is set at its highest point there is a danger of the fan rim cutting into the top hose. When you fit this be sure fix it in the highest position that you can manage On Fri, 15 Jan 2021 at 06:39, Michael MacLean wrote: > The OEM type fan belt that I bought from Moss arrived today. I tried to > fit it to the engine this evening. Well, it seems to be too big! The > adjustment of the generator is all the way out and the fan belt is loose. > Moss part number 021-066. All the pulleys are the correct size originals. > What am I missing here? > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210114_221947.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3466997 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Jan 15 05:52:11 2021 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 07:52:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma In-Reply-To: <4B85FBA31D1148418DA66FA9757C271A@msiallinone> References: <5f4e962c9fd097c5a9d1c662576aac4b8bf43a20@webmail> <4B85FBA31D1148418DA66FA9757C271A@msiallinone> Message-ID: <732860729.5280270.1610715131481.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> When I was working at Alcoa's Tech Center, I had this board from my BJ8 tested. The results are :Chrysotile----30 VL%Amosite------less than 0.10 VL%Crocidolite---less than 0.10 VL%Non-Asbestos fibers---less than 0.10 VL%VL= Volume percent. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Graeme Molony To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 14 Jan 2021 18:18:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma Hank Looks a bit like the white ants got into the firewall panel The rocker panel also looks as though it needs replacement Memories Graeme M( BJ8 )Affectionely known as the Fred Flinstone Car From:gradea1 at charter.netSent: Friday, January 15, 2021 6:07 AMTo:'Bob Spidell'Cc:'healeys at autox.team.net'Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos and mesothelioma You can, for sure, bet that the guys who cut and applied all those asbestos panels to our Healeys are long gone. I found the best substitute for those hairy items is 5/16" HardiPlank soffit material-which also should be used carefully when cutting; using a mask and gloves and eye protection as well-but it does not flake off and looks original. I lost two brother-in-laws, who were both in the Navy, to that...working in the boiler room. There is a super fund to pay off the surviving families, but wives of the victims could get it just doing the laundry! Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday January 14 2021 10:02:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From:Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To:'Perry Small' Cc:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle. It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 15 06:33:15 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 08:33:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fan Belt References: <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51@aol.com> Also be aware that there are two different length adjusting links used on big Austin Healeys. P -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7954.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 34187 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 15 07:09:20 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 15:09:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51@aol.com> References: <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51.ref@aol.com> <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51@aol.com> Message-ID: <60fe53fb-08b9-9660-4245-14c5ff36fd44@chello.nl> Why not measure first. The width of the belt is the width of the top of the groove in the pulley. The length is measured over the outer diameter of the pulleys with the generator/alternator adjusted as loose as possible. With those measurements the parts shop or web shop should be well able to sell you the correct belt which could well deviate from what Moss or equivalent has in their catalogue. In Europe these measurements are in mm, I presume that it would be in inches in the USA. Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-1-2021 om 14:33 schreef Perry Small via Healeys: > Also be aware that there are two different length adjusting links used on big Austin Healeys. > P > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 08:17:44 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 15:17:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet In-Reply-To: <008701d6eb07$81fa95f0$85efc1d0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018.ref@aol.com> <44643706-9BB6-4336-9DD9-D306846A0018@aol.com> <000201d6ea83$ca6a7c80$5f3f7580$@alexarevel.plus.com> <00c101d6ea94$2f00cf90$8d026eb0$@sympatico.ca>, <024da106-2888-da34-0aaa-4f186f4618cb@comcast.net> , <008701d6eb07$81fa95f0$85efc1d0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: It pretty well was. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: John Spaur Sent: January 15, 2021 12:27 AM To: 'Jean Caron'; 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet It looks like the entire town is a mine! John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2021 12:57 PM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet There is a small city in Quebec called Asbestos and they used to have an open mine there, not closed. You can see it on Google map, it is located south east of Montreal. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 14, 2021 12:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Steve McQueen (the actor) died of mesothelioma. Urban legend says he contracted it from working in a brake shop--Healey content: I believe he campaigned a Sprite for a while--but it's more likely he got it in the Navy. True to character, he was a 'bad boy' and for punishment was assigned to clean up parts of the ships that were insulated with asbestos. It wasn't an intentional death sentence; it was before the dangers of asbestos were widely known. I caught a news item years ago about a city in Russia that got its entire revenue from a nearby asbestos mine. The city is mostly abandoned now, for good reason, but a few stragglers stuck aroun. One was an octogenarian who had worked in the mine most of his life but never got sick from it. Do they have lotteries in Russia? If so, he should buy a ticket. On 1/14/2021 8:42 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: I believe it is a bit more than just ?dust? as if you were cutting it. Asbestos is fiberous and the fibres are composed of microscopic components that will shed with any abrasion, even simple handling. The microscopic fibrils become airborne and are easily inhaled. They can also adhere to your skin and clothing and be transferred later, after the job is finished. I am no expert, but suspect a short, once-in-a-lifetime exposure are probably not a risk, but why take even a small risk when exposure is easily prevented. What worries me is when I look back to when I was a kid working in a gas station in the 60s and when the mechanics did a brake job, the first thing they did after removing the brake drums was take an air hose and blow the brake dust off the shoes and backing plate etc. Of course brake material had asbestos fibres in it back then and these clouds of black asbestos-filled dust would fill the shop for us all to enjoy. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: January 14, 2021 11:16 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet I have always been told that it is the dust of asbestos that is dangerous, not the board itself. I recall many years ago helping a friend with these on his Austin-Healey and he was totally afraid of even removing these panels, he was wearing a mask, and then a shield and gloves, that?s even before they had these ?hazmat? suits. Meanwhile he smoked a pack to a pack and half of cigarettes daily which eventually and unfortunately took his life. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: January 14, 2021 8:47 AM To: 'Perry Small' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Thank you to everyone regarding the sheet. I gave it a gentle pry, per Perry's advice, and then one rather less gentle It just popped off. Intact and without cracking or breaking. I wonder if it is asbestos. It looked to be in really good condition, but it was there when I bought the car back in '96. Anyhow, I was able to easily put the slide's 3 T-nuts in and reinstall the sheet. All suitably masked of course. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Perry Small > Sent: 11 January 2021 19:11 To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: asbestos lookalike insulation sheet Simon Notice the square blocks attached to the big sheet. They have been known to bond themselves to the bottom of the floor pan. Gentle pry them loose. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Jan 11 10:25:04 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2021 17:25:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers In-Reply-To: References: <222c823684f8abcd2b4161842240a256dd945ad6@webmail> <013c01d6e298$38e5f7f0$aab1e7d0$@sympatico.ca>, Message-ID: Dave, can it be mounted on a BJ8 with the everything in place? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of David Nock Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 8:12 AM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca ; pdzwig at summaventures.com ; gradea1 at charter.net ; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers These washers were there to help distribute the pressure on the timing cover gasket and help seal. Over the years the cover distorts and they don?t work as well. So we have made a ring that goes around the timing cover completely on the 100 and the bottom 2/3 of the 6 cylinder motors. It replaces the oval washers and helps stop the seeping of the timing cover gaskets. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 4:50 AM To: pdzwig at summaventures.com ; gradea1 at charter.net ; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers For the record, I am pretty sure it is my motor that Mike is working on. I have a Heritage Certificate which gives the build date as 29 Sept to 6 October, 1959. Dispatch date was 13 October. That was for the car, and they may have had motors built up and waiting for installation, but it ties it down fairly closely. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: January 4, 2021 5:28 AM To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael Salter' Cc: 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine washers Completely agree. See my comment which was posted before I read Hank's mail. It really would be interesting to have dates for the engines, but engine stamps don't necessarily reflect build order. Peter On 03/01/2021 21:21, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > I agree with Ira-production shortage-there were more than one supplier > punching out these washers for the British auto industry using > different jigs. Back then they didn't care what the shape was, but > they desperately needed to ship cars to recover from the war. Mix and > match was the order of the day. > > Here is a quote from my article about Austin from BMC Chief Leonard > Lord: After the war, the economy in Britain was also in ruins. > Efforts by the government to improve it, only added restrictions to > automobile manufacturing. It was a desperate time for Austin, and Lord > decreed: > "Get the stuff in by hook or crook...just get it in." So many > materials were in demand but the scarce supply affected production and > profits. > > Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael Salter" > To: "Skip Saunders" > Cc: "healeylist" > Sent: Sunday January 3 2021 12:54:26PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cylinder engine detail > > Good observation Skip and one that made me go back and look again .. > > image.png > As you can see the sides of one of the 2 odd washers (both are the > same) are absolutely parallel. > It would take someone with a lot of skill to shear the sides off > individually to achieve that degree of accuracy on both washers and > really ... would anyone go to that much effort? > > > image.png > Additionally the washers have been punched out, not ground or filed to > size as is evident from the shear marks on the sides. > > I realize that this is totally insignificant in the scheme of things > but being a very poor sleeper I tend to stay awake at night and think > about these things. :-) > > I have found that there is usually a good explanation for these things > but this has me stumped. > > Please ... help me get a good night's sleep. > > M > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 1:28 PM Skip Saunders wrote: > > Judging by the curvature of the washers, the five appear to be of > the original manufactured type. The two appear to be regular > washers that have been ground down to fit in the narrow channel. Do > you see the same disparity among washers in the oil pan (it too uses > those types of narrow channel compatible washers I believe.) > Thanks > -skip- > > On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:57 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > > I'm working on an early 3000 engine and have found these 2 > different types of > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/ > mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http:/ > /autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 12:29:13 2021 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 19:29:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Original conception, bent over together, spread open and bent over, or twisted Message-ID: Not sure if this subject was ever covered. In the original conception of the big Healey, how was the tabs on the bottom of the fender beading bent to secure? Over the years I have seen the two tabs bent over the fender lip together, separated and bent over on opposite sides (ft. only), and also twisted together. Anyone know the technique from the factory? The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Fri Jan 15 13:58:43 2021 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John OBrien) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 14:58:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps Message-ID: Hi : I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog.? I have never been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in place.? They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the door seal material.? I also have never used the metal end caps, so I don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either.? Can someone send me some pictures or a description that might help me? Thanks in advance.? I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri Jan 15 14:10:19 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 16:10:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If someone has some pictures, please share them with the list. I'm in the same boat as John. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 4:07 PM John OBrien wrote: > Hi : > > I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, > and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never > been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the > end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in > place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the > door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I > don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone > send me some pictures or a description that might help me? > > Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye (Lucy) > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Jan 15 14:46:47 2021 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 16:46:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <082401d6eb87$ed7812f0$c86838d0$@rr.com> Aren?t we all? The replacements available have a ?membrane? between the fat and skinny parts of the seal that prevent it from fitting over the end of the seal. Is that supposed to be cut? They also seem to last only a couple years before beginning to tear/disintegrate. Contact cement doesn?t work very well to hold them in place. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Friday, January 15, 2021 4:10 PM To: John OBrien Cc: healeys at autox team. net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door seal end caps If someone has some pictures, please share them with the list. I'm in the same boat as John. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 4:07 PM John OBrien wrote: Hi : I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone send me some pictures or a description that might help me? Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Fri Jan 15 15:12:37 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 17:12:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: <082401d6eb87$ed7812f0$c86838d0$@rr.com> References: <082401d6eb87$ed7812f0$c86838d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: I can get them on?but do they STAY on? I have a feeling that they are not close enough to the originals. I have a bag of spares that I?m always dipping into because they like to disappear down behind the quarter panel upholstery. Stephen, BJ8 > On Jan 15, 2021, at 4:46 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Aren?t we all? > > The replacements available have a ?membrane? between the fat and skinny parts of the seal that prevent it from fitting over the end of the seal. Is that supposed to be cut? They also seem to last only a couple years before beginning to tear/disintegrate. Contact cement doesn?t work very well to hold them in place. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > > ? <> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick > Sent: Friday, January 15, 2021 4:10 PM > To: John OBrien > Cc: healeys at autox team. net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door seal end caps > > If someone has some pictures, please share them with the list. I'm in the same boat as John. > > Happy and Healthy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 4:07 PM John OBrien > wrote: >> Hi : >> >> I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, >> and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never >> been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the >> end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in >> place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the >> door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I >> don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone >> send me some pictures or a description that might help me? >> >> Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '61 bugeye (Lucy) >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 15:23:00 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 22:23:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The rubber end caps are sided, L and R and I don?t know about others but yes I cut the membrane and fit them on first, I purchase Bristleflex only as it is the best fitting door seal material, and I glue these using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #08008. As far as the metal end caps are concerned, see the photo, I cut the rubber bulb that would be underneath the cap as it makes it easier to squeeze in place. Bear in mind that where the Bristleflex made a 90 degree turn, there should be a very small screw that helps keeping it in place. All that kind of detailed information will soon be available in a new book by Roger Moment available through the AHCUSA. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: John OBrien Sent: January 15, 2021 3:07 PM To: 'healeys at autox team. net' Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps Hi : I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone send me some pictures or a description that might help me? Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324343654%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=47KziA95HpsnjbhdV9Mfuav2qekcUL8elqaEjyXBxyY%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=4fBEw0cEtx2F0rUIns78NPWxlm3JmHRrrple5wUz%2BTU%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=7IKFhORxCJ2ad0UAOrFlm41ccUghFJLYU7CeKOekuEM%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=tqhhrqoOgfFZiqZkWeqbHAcuBBEZo1AAFB5OF37AaVY%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=TwZ63Z7G7I%2BVVMAlBOdYE0oViwriKevthbj%2F4Sk5ias%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Jan 15 15:24:47 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 22:24:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Sorry, I forgot the photo, here it is. [cid:image003.jpg at 01D6EB5A.E7CE2880] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jean Caron Sent: January 15, 2021 4:23 PM To: John OBrien; 'healeys at autox team. net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Door seal end caps The rubber end caps are sided, L and R and I don?t know about others but yes I cut the membrane and fit them on first, I purchase Bristleflex only as it is the best fitting door seal material, and I glue these using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #08008. As far as the metal end caps are concerned, see the photo, I cut the rubber bulb that would be underneath the cap as it makes it easier to squeeze in place. Bear in mind that where the Bristleflex made a 90 degree turn, there should be a very small screw that helps keeping it in place. All that kind of detailed information will soon be available in a new book by Roger Moment available through the AHCUSA. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: John OBrien Sent: January 15, 2021 3:07 PM To: 'healeys at autox team. net' Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps Hi : I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone send me some pictures or a description that might help me? Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324343654%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=47KziA95HpsnjbhdV9Mfuav2qekcUL8elqaEjyXBxyY%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=4fBEw0cEtx2F0rUIns78NPWxlm3JmHRrrple5wUz%2BTU%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=7IKFhORxCJ2ad0UAOrFlm41ccUghFJLYU7CeKOekuEM%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=tqhhrqoOgfFZiqZkWeqbHAcuBBEZo1AAFB5OF37AaVY%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2b0d42b220d942c4b94308d8b99986cc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637463416324353649%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=TwZ63Z7G7I%2BVVMAlBOdYE0oViwriKevthbj%2F4Sk5ias%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E5BC1859314F49F8BC27D4BC72E972F2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97552 bytes Desc: E5BC1859314F49F8BC27D4BC72E972F2.jpg URL: From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Fri Jan 15 15:32:48 2021 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Doug Barker) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2021 17:32:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal end caps In-Reply-To: <0Wxul8BANeR1S0WxvlrHdt@videotron.ca> References: <0Wxul8BANeR1S0WxvlrHdt@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <00fd01d6eb8e$5b5c5730$12150590$@videotron.ca> I cut the membrane and used GOOP glue-held on forever From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: January-15-21 4:47 PM To: 'HealeyRick'; 'John OBrien' Cc: 'healeys at autox team. net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door seal end caps Aren?t we all? The replacements available have a ?membrane? between the fat and skinny parts of the seal that prevent it from fitting over the end of the seal. Is that supposed to be cut? They also seem to last only a couple years before beginning to tear/disintegrate. Contact cement doesn?t work very well to hold them in place. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Friday, January 15, 2021 4:10 PM To: John OBrien Cc: healeys at autox team. net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door seal end caps If someone has some pictures, please share them with the list. I'm in the same boat as John. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avast.com On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 4:07 PM John OBrien wrote: Hi : I am replacing my door seal on my BJ8, and ordered the rubber end caps, and the metal end caps, as indicated in the Moss catalog. I have never been able to figure out how those rubber caps are supposed to fit on the end of the door seal material, or how they are supposed to be held in place. They just don't seem to have the same profile as the end of the door seal material. I also have never used the metal end caps, so I don't know exactly how they are supposed to fit either. Can someone send me some pictures or a description that might help me? Thanks in advance. I know you guys and gals are a wealth of information. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 15 17:28:50 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 00:28:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fan Belt In-Reply-To: <60fe53fb-08b9-9660-4245-14c5ff36fd44@chello.nl> References: <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51.ref@aol.com> <23AA20A8-8DED-4C42-8793-95DDD06DAC51@aol.com> <60fe53fb-08b9-9660-4245-14c5ff36fd44@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1120931730.9319.1610756930666@mail.yahoo.com> The belt I bought from Moss comes from the UK.? It actually says on the belt it is for classic cars.? Very heavy and quite substantial.? I will measure it, but more than likely the correct belt, wrong adjusting bracket.Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 6:09 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 16 21:00:53 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 20:00:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] D-Shaped Foam Rubber for Dash Message-ID: <8A846DE833A249C18FE932527F95D513@AllInOne> I am looking for a source for the 1" D-Shaped foam rubber on the front of the dash. Thanks.... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 17 13:08:28 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 20:08:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Threaded Hole References: <1122656702.400882.1610914108778.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1122656702.400882.1610914108778@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone please tell me what this hole is for? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: InkedThreaded Hole_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2831459 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun Jan 17 13:58:41 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 12:58:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery noise - Update In-Reply-To: <1092347050.2665548.1598209460736.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <763756471.2665232.1598209432642.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1092347050.2665548.1598209460736.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Update. GB reinstalled and all clear so far. For interest was rear GB bearing. Layshaft was also graunched. Also replaced the front tranny bearing. To my mind noise was not systematic of a dodgy bearing, but you live and learn. Thanks to all for ideas and input. rg On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 12:04 PM Roger Grace via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > M - thank you for your interest and ideas. > > Ok have just done another test session. > All listening with one of those stethoscope things. > Seems worst at rear area of GB. > > (a) Prop shaft connected. > Both rear wheels free and wheels mounted. > Same results for single wheel free. > Noise is distinct when start in 4th at about 20 MPH; OD out; shift to > neutral and cut ignition. > As wheels slow down the noise becomes more pronounced and don't rally need > scope to hear the beat - particularly as it approaches zero speed. > At higher speed the the fast repetitions makes the sound of the individual > beats blend together. > > (b) Prop shaft not connected and engine running > In this mode not possible to do the shift to neutral and cut ignition > routine as engine slows down too quickly. > So run at as slow a speed as possible in the different gears. > OD out > all 3 gears similar. > the beat sound not as loud as at (a) but do believe that is because of the > background engine noise. > So in 2nd was able to control speed best and at low speed could hear the > individual beats at low speed. > Could also hear the problem in 3rd and 4th but speed higher so not as > distinct because of the increased RPM. > 1st just too noisy for testing. > > Getting close to biting the bullet pulling it out ... grr !! > > rg > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Salter via Healeys > To: John Harper > Cc: healeys at autox team. net > Sent: Sun, 23 Aug 2020 06:21:18 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery noise - Update > > The fact that you report : > "With propshaft disconnected, am able hear noise in 2nd or 4th when > slipping clutch (reduces speed)" > Is probably significant. I would be making every effort to determine that > 3rd gear eliminates the noise completely before going any further. > Then carefully considering what is different in 2nd and 4th. > > M > > > On Sun., Aug. 23, 2020, 5:41 a.m. John Harper via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> David >> >> Is your fan belt in good order. I had one that was 'lumpy' with some >> cross sections being different to others. I had great difficulty working >> out where the vibration came from. In the event it was the car that told me >> by fracturing the dynamo bracket >> >> On Sun, 23 Aug 2020 at 03:54, David Porter >> wrote: >> >>> Well, then it is rotational for sure, not a bearing that is failing but >>> perhaps already failed, perhaps allowing the O/D annulus to scrape the >>> surrounding housing...though it did not sound like steel on aluminum to me. >>> You have moved the noise from rear to midway.. perhaps if you haven't, >>> check for a failed motor mount and the crank pulley scraping the cross >>> member?? DP >>> >>> >>> On August 22, 2020, at 6:46 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys < >>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> Not a lot of progress... >>> >>> Brake cable is well clear of propshaft and securely clipped. >>> >>> Universal U joint/spline phasing is correct. >>> >>> Been doing lots of listening with stethoscope. >>> With propshaft disconnected, am able hear noise in 2nd or 4th when >>> slipping clutch (reduces speed) >>> Assume is the same noise and less distinct because of the engine noise. >>> Not nearly as distinct as when shaft is connected and rear wheels >>> freewheeling in neutral and engine off. >>> Loudest area seems to be rear GB casing near rear bearing. >>> This still does not sound like a bearing to my ears ? >>> >>> Plan to try to get a 2nd expert opinion with younger ears ! >>> >>> rg >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: David Nock >>> To: Roger Grace , 'healeylist' < >>> healeys at autox.team.net> >>> Sent: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 12:47:51 -0600 (MDT) >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery noise >>> >>> Drive shaft hitting the handbrake cable when the car is jacked up. >>> Probably >>> will go away when sitting on the ground. >>> >>> >>> David >>> Nock >>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> 209 948 >>> 8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> Help us have our Founder Norman >>> Nock inducteed into the >>> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for >>> your favorites >>> by visiting the site >>> at. >>> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org >>> >>> *From:*Roger Grace via Healeys >>> *Sent:* Thursday, August 20, 2020 10:27 AM >>> *To:*'healeylist' >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Mystery noise >>> >>> AH people - fighting a noise in my BJ8 that may or may not be >>> serious. >>> Reluctant to tear out the tranny unnecessarily and then to find it was >>> something simple ! >>> >>> Notice it at low speed (probably exists at driving speed but too much >>> wind >>> and engine >>> noise) if shift to neutral and cut ignition to minimize engine >>> and exhaust noise. >>> Noise is pulsating - like a tire with a bad spot but seems to be at >>> >>> prop shaft speed. >>> >>> At first thought that it was at wheel speed and from R side. >>> So changed out the R wheel bearing. >>> No improvement >>> >>> Then while looking below noted that universals had some play. >>> So changed out both universals. >>> Rear brakes not dragging and no binding of wheels. >>> No improvement. >>> >>> Did listening on hoist with others listening too. Consensus was that >>> there >>> was a noise at rear OD area as well as the pulsating one. >>> >>> So pulled annulus in situ and replaced both rear bearings. Quieter but >>> still the pulsating noise while coasting in N. >>> >>> Sound file enclosed is a road test from about 15 MPH then shift to N and >>> cut engine. Tunnel cover off. >>> >>> Able to replicate noise with engine on axle stands but not by turning a >>> rear wheel by hand or with an e motor. >>> >>> Noise does appear to come from transmission. >>> >>> To verify is not diff removed one of the rear seats and noise doesn't >>> appear to be coming from diff area. >>> Disconnecting prop shaft to isolate diff not possible as need the >>> inertia >>> of the rear wheels to produce the pulsing. >>> >>> About 5k miles ago I changed out the larger OD front bearing (sourced >>> from >>> >>> Moss ... ?) in the OD. >>> OD works fine and transmission shifts and works OK without unusual >>> >>> noises. >>> >>> The pulsating/cyclical nature of the noise baffles me and not consistent >>> >>> with a bearing failure ? >>> >>> Given that it occurs in neutral with no gears meshing it surely is not a >>> bad gear tooth etc. >>> OD not engaged so it is locked so not likely there. >>> Removed gearbox top cover and did inspection - nothing obvious. >>> So to my mind this only leaves the GB rear bearing ? >>> Or maybe a broken circlip or thrust washer and probably on main shaft >>> external to gearbox ? >>> or half shaft ? >>> >>> Any comments/thoughts appreciated from the more experienced >>> among us. >>> Tkx >>> rg >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net >>> http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation >>> $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com >>> >>> >> >> -- >> Best wishes >> >> John Harper >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sun Jan 17 15:33:24 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 22:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Threaded Hole In-Reply-To: <1122656702.400882.1610914108778@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1122656702.400882.1610914108778.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1122656702.400882.1610914108778@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael I don't know the answer but I can add that not all blocks have this drilled and tapped hole that needs a screw in stopper plug that does not show on any parts list. One guess is that it could be for an oil temperature probe that shows on a dial a little like the water temperature sensor and dial. Rgds On Sun, 17 Jan 2021 at 20:24, Michael MacLean wrote: > Can someone please tell me what this hole is for? > > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun Jan 17 18:37:15 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 01:37:15 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Threaded Hole Message-ID: <02c67379-69e4-49bd-848f-02f5ba3477cc@me.com> Not sure what it's for, but it does exist on my engine and the plug that fills that hole uses a 1/2 BS or 7/16 WW socket. Again not sure what it's for. But I'm pretty sure if you don't plug it, you're going to have some problems. ???Also look at the back of your block, there is a hole that used to fit an oil feed that was eliminated on 100 engines, but is used to feed oil to the 100S distributor I believe. The hole wasn't plugged on my block and I didn't notice it until I had the engine back in the car and fired it up and it leaked oil out the hole. Standing behind your engine, it's a little off center to the left and about an inch below the head. I've been told it should be a brass plug. I made an aluminum plug and pressed it into the block. Steven Kingsbury? ??? On January 17, 2021 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Can someone please tell me what this hole is for? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Jan 17 19:31:48 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 02:31:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Threaded Hole In-Reply-To: <02c67379-69e4-49bd-848f-02f5ba3477cc@me.com> References: <02c67379-69e4-49bd-848f-02f5ba3477cc@me.com> Message-ID: Gotta remember this engine was used in several different vehicles, some of them diesel fueled. These features could have been needed for other applications. I suppose the extra hole could have been for a relocated dipstick or maybe an oil cooler return. I thought about it for my PVC mod, but decided on the down tube port instead. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: Monday, January 18, 2021 1:37 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Threaded Hole Not sure what it's for, but it does exist on my engine and the plug that fills that hole uses a 1/2 BS or 7/16 WW socket. Again not sure what it's for. But I'm pretty sure if you don't plug it, you're going to have some problems. Also look at the back of your block, there is a hole that used to fit an oil feed that was eliminated on 100 engines, but is used to feed oil to the 100S distributor I believe. The hole wasn't plugged on my block and I didn't notice it until I had the engine back in the car and fired it up and it leaked oil out the hole. Standing behind your engine, it's a little off center to the left and about an inch below the head. I've been told it should be a brass plug. I made an aluminum plug and pressed it into the block. Steven Kingsbury On January 17, 2021 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Can someone please tell me what this hole is for? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Jan 18 07:58:35 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 14:58:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Road and Track References: <124480821.608815.1610981915546.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <124480821.608815.1610981915546@mail.yahoo.com> Morning listers! I have approx 130 R&T issues which are yours for boxing and shipping from 23602 to you. ?All are roughly 1988 through 2000. ?Included are also about a dozen Automobile. ?First come, first served.Keith in VA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 08:19:54 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 07:19:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers Message-ID: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> Listers, I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during re/assembly. My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid against). TIA, Bob From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jan 18 09:16:52 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 16:16:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Generator Witworth bolt References: <464961223.2967226.1610986612572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <464961223.2967226.1610986612572@mail.yahoo.com> After our recent discussion about the 5/16" BSW (Witworth) bolt that threads into the aluminum end plate on the generator, I decided to search thru all my ziplock bags of British bolts to see if I could locate that one bolt. My 100 shipped disassembled. First, I separated all the 5/16" X 18tpi (coarse) bolts from the rest. Then I separated all the bolts with heads that fit a 1/2" socket because I understood that the 5/16" BSW bolts have a larger head. I was left with 2 bolts. They are identical, except that one is about?1/2" long & the other is about 7/8" long. Neither has any markings on the head of the bolt.?My questions are: If one is for the generator, where does the other one go? The hex head on both bolts fit a King Dick socket marked 1/4W. The hex head measures 0.52 across the flats. According the a "Key to Nut & Bolt Sizes" chart I have, this head size should be on a 1/4"W bolt but the bolt is 5/16" diameter X 18TPI. Do you see the contradiction? Also, this chart indicates the hex head should measure 0.60 across the flats for a 5/16" BSW bolt.? Gary Hodson? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Jan 18 09:21:26 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 16:21:26 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000501d6edb5$faf322f0$f0d968d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I asked much the same question some 10 years ago. I keep "all the good stuff" so here is the benefit of my hoarding and their wisdom. Hope it works, Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 18 January 2021 15:20 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers Listers, I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during re/assembly. My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid against). TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus. com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: Wheel cylinder.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 781219 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 18 09:37:40 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 11:37:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <030b01d6edb8$3d370670$b7a51350$@sympatico.ca> I seem to recall it is clearly illustrated in the factory workshop manual. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: January 18, 2021 10:20 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers Listers, I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during re/assembly. My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid against). TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 10:33:50 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 09:33:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <000501d6edb5$faf322f0$f0d968d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> <000501d6edb5$faf322f0$f0d968d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <5ab8278f-795f-572e-d0ab-2848996291c8@comcast.net> Thanks, Simon! But, it appears #1 (Michael Salter) and #3 (from John Sims) contradict each other; what should be the 'tie-breaker,' #4 from the late, great Dave Russell doesn't address the orientation of the two. My gut, and common sense, says the flat plate--with the notches--should go against the backing plate, but I've always installed them the other way around. Would really like to get this right, though I think things work OD either way. Bob On 1/18/2021 8:21 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > I asked much the same question some 10 years ago. I keep "all the good > stuff" so here is the benefit of my hoarding and their wisdom. > Hope it works, > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: 18 January 2021 15:20 > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > Listers, > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the > 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. > One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the > U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top > that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to > slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). > The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, > mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load > the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during > re/assembly. > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, > or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be > that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would > function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, > curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide > easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and > backplate--that slide or are slid against). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus. > com From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 10:36:29 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 09:36:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <030b01d6edb8$3d370670$b7a51350$@sympatico.ca> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> <030b01d6edb8$3d370670$b7a51350$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <4ba52246-9274-2127-73cf-3914d3b4ddc9@comcast.net> I couldn't find any info in my BN2 workshop manual; maybe I missed it (I'll check again). On 1/18/2021 8:37 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > I seem to recall it is clearly illustrated in the factory workshop manual. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: January 18, 2021 10:20 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > Listers, > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the > 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. > One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the > U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top > that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to > slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). > The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, > mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load > the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during > re/assembly. > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, > or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be > that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would > function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, > curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide > easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and > backplate--that slide or are slid against). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 18 11:10:17 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 13:10:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <4ba52246-9274-2127-73cf-3914d3b4ddc9@comcast.net> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> <030b01d6edb8$3d370670$b7a51350$@sympatico.ca> <4ba52246-9274-2127-73cf-3914d3b4ddc9@comcast.net> Message-ID: <031201d6edc5$2d3ab250$87b016f0$@sympatico.ca> I just checked and it is a little more vague than I recalled. There is some description in the "MMM" section of the 3000 manual. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: January 18, 2021 12:36 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers I couldn't find any info in my BN2 workshop manual; maybe I missed it (I'll check again). On 1/18/2021 8:37 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > I seem to recall it is clearly illustrated in the factory workshop manual. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: January 18, 2021 10:20 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > Listers, > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered > about the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. > One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' > of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple > 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces > (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). > The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at > least, mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to > spring load the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been > bent during re/assembly. > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake > backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the > backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one > way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always > installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as > it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little > grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid against). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Jan 18 11:11:00 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:11:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers Message-ID: <59e1f0db5271377817e68fe29247f9f948c09fdb@webmail> Here is a good illustration of the position of each clip-the bend creates pressure to hold it in place. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Monday January 18 2021 9:37:16AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers I couldn't find any info in my BN2 workshop manual; maybe I missed it (I'll check again). On 1/18/2021 8:37 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > I seem to recall it is clearly illustrated in the factory workshop manual. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: January 18, 2021 10:20 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > Listers, > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the > 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. > One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the > U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top > that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to > slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). > The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, > mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load > the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during > re/assembly. > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, > or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be > that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would > function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, > curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide > easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and > backplate--that slide or are slid against). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [1] Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2] http://autox.team.net/archive /> > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca /> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [3] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: locking plates.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 234943 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jan 18 11:28:33 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:28:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2096561742.710809.1610994513819@mail.yahoo.com> Bob etalMechanically it would make sense that the curve (bulge) part of the spring plate is against the greased backing plate to minimize the contact area thereby being a best case for sliding movement.? The locking plate, being flat, minimizes the tilt? or rocking of the wheel cylinder. Granted when everything is in place the bulge is minimal as is the?movement of the assembly. I guess compared to the BN1 set up, this is a modern marvel! P -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: Healeys Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 10:19 am Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers Listers, I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the cylinders. One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the 'top' of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo effect). The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at least, mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to spring load the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during re/assembly. My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid against). TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 11:35:55 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 10:35:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <59e1f0db5271377817e68fe29247f9f948c09fdb@webmail> References: <59e1f0db5271377817e68fe29247f9f948c09fdb@webmail> Message-ID: Thanks, Hank; this is helpful (I'll hit the books tomorrow). Still, it's unclear which clip goes on top; but, since #4 is curved/bowed, I think it's only possible that it goes under the flat plate (#2). The curve helps it get past the e-brake lever. On 1/18/2021 10:11 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > Here is a good illustration of the position of each clip-the bend > creates pressure to hold it in place. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: "Healeys" > Cc: > Sent: Monday January 18 2021 9:37:16AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > I couldn't find any info in my BN2 workshop manual; maybe I missed it > (I'll check again). > > On 1/18/2021 8:37 AM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > I seem to recall it is clearly illustrated in the factory workshop > manual. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > > Sent: January 18, 2021 10:20 AM > > To: Healeys > > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > > > Listers, > > > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered > about the > > 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the > cylinders. > > One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at the > 'top' of the > > U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a couple 'tangs' > on top > > that hook into the notches to retain the two pieces (which are > designed to > > slide against the backplate to enable 'self-energizing' or servo > effect). > > The piece with the tangs is usually slightly bowed and springy--at > least, > > mine are and I don't think I've ever bought new--apparently to > spring load > > the two pieces, which interlock, but it could have been bent during > > re/assembly. > > > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake > backplate, > > or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the backplate? It > may be > > that they can only be assembled in place in one way, and it seems > they would > > function OK either way, but I've always installed them with the tanged, > > curved piece against the backplate, as it seems the cylinder would slide > > easier that way (I also put a little grease on the areas--cylinder and > > backplate--that slide or are slid against). > > > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation > > $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > /> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net > /> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 11:38:19 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 10:38:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers In-Reply-To: <2096561742.710809.1610994513819@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433a60aa-f3b1-3e43-e780-d1a3f091c108@comcast.net> <2096561742.710809.1610994513819@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <644cf4e2-36b3-ebea-ae31-07ed162b1cd0@comcast.net> That's what made the most sense to me, and how I've always installed them (my BN2 and BJ8 have the same rear brake setup). But "That's how we've always done it" ain't necessarily right. On 1/18/2021 10:28 AM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > Bob etal > Mechanically it would make sense that the curve (bulge) part of the > spring plate is against the greased backing plate to minimize the > contact area thereby being a best case for sliding movement.? The > locking plate, being flat, minimizes the tilt? or rocking of the wheel > cylinder. Granted when everything is in place the bulge is minimal as > is the?movement of the assembly. I guess compared to the BN1 set up, > this is a modern marvel! > > P > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: Healeys > Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 10:19 am > Subject: [Healeys] Rear Wheel Cylinder Retainers > > Listers, > > I've replaced a few rear wheel cylinders and have always wondered about > the 'proper' orientation of the two U-shaped plates that retain the > cylinders. One of the U-shaped plates is flat with a couple notches at > the 'top' of the U--if it was oriented like the letter--and one has a > couple 'tangs' on top that hook into the notches to retain the two > pieces (which are designed to slide against the backplate to enable > 'self-energizing' or servo effect). The piece with the tangs is usually > slightly bowed and springy--at least, mine are and I don't think I've > ever bought new--apparently to spring load the two pieces, which > interlock, but it could have been bent during re/assembly. > > My question is, does the notched, flat plate go against the brake > backplate, or does the curved piece with the tangs go against the > backplate? It may be that they can only be assembled in place in one > way, and it seems they would function OK either way, but I've always > installed them with the tanged, curved piece against the backplate, as > it seems the cylinder would slide easier that way (I also put a little > grease on the areas--cylinder and backplate--that slide or are slid > against). > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jan 18 12:49:40 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 14:49:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal References: Message-ID: Listers Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a request to review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My security software caught a problem with the file and would not let it open. Just a heads up. I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the situation. Perry Sent from my iPhone From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jan 18 13:03:59 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 20:03:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Generator Witworth bolt In-Reply-To: <464961223.2967226.1610986612572@mail.yahoo.com> References: <464961223.2967226.1610986612572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <464961223.2967226.1610986612572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1677860420.596219.1611000239398@mail.yahoo.com> Sorry for the spelling error (Whitworth not Witworth). As soon as I read my email it was obvious to me.Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: warthodson--- via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 10:16 am Subject: [Healeys] 100 Generator Witworth bolt After our recent discussion about the 5/16" BSW (Witworth) bolt that threads into the aluminum end plate on the generator, I decided to search thru all my ziplock bags of British bolts to see if I could locate that one bolt. My 100 shipped disassembled. First, I separated all the 5/16" X 18tpi (coarse) bolts from the rest. Then I separated all the bolts with heads that fit a 1/2" socket because I understood that the 5/16" BSW bolts have a larger head. I was left with 2 bolts. They are identical, except that one is about?1/2" long & the other is about 7/8" long. Neither has any markings on the head of the bolt.?My questions are: If one is for the generator, where does the other one go? The hex head on both bolts fit a King Dick socket marked 1/4W. The hex head measures 0.52 across the flats. According the a "Key to Nut & Bolt Sizes" chart I have, this head size should be on a 1/4"W bolt but the bolt is 5/16" diameter X 18TPI. Do you see the contradiction? Also, this chart indicates the hex head should measure 0.60 across the flats for a 5/16" BSW bolt.? Gary Hodson? ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jan 18 13:25:37 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 15:25:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Generator Witworth bolt In-Reply-To: <1677860420.596219.1611000239398@mail.yahoo.com> References: <464961223.2967226.1610986612572.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <464961223.2967226.1610986612572@mail.yahoo.com> <1677860420.596219.1611000239398@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4fb4e006-b55a-cde1-d00f-6b6398a8284a@earthlink.net> Gary, There are two BSW standards.? Originally, the head of a BSW bolt was one size larger than the same diameter BSF bolt.? So for a 1/4" BSW bolt, the distance across the flats can be either 0.525" or 0.445".? 5/16" BSW is either 0.600" (old standard) or 0.525" (new standard).? On some wrenches you'll see both markings (1/4" BSW, 5/16" BSF). Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/18/21 3:03 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > Sorry for the spelling error (Whitworth not Witworth). As soon as I > read my email it was obvious to me. > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: warthodson--- via Healeys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Jan 18, 2021 10:16 am > Subject: [Healeys] 100 Generator Witworth bolt > > After our recent discussion about the 5/16" BSW (Witworth) bolt that > threads into the aluminum end plate on the generator, I decided to > search thru all my ziplock bags of British bolts to see if I could > locate that one bolt. My 100 shipped disassembled. First, I separated > all the 5/16" X 18tpi (coarse) bolts from the rest. Then I separated > all the bolts with heads that fit a 1/2" socket because I understood > that the 5/16" BSW bolts have a larger head. I was left with 2 bolts. > They are identical, except that one is about 1/2" long & the other is > about 7/8" long. Neither has any markings on the head of the bolt. > My questions are: > > If one is for the generator, where does the other one go? > > The hex head on both bolts fit a King Dick socket marked 1/4W. The hex > head measures 0.52 across the flats. According the a "Key to Nut & > Bolt Sizes" chart I have, this head size should be on a 1/4"W bolt but > the bolt is 5/16" diameter X 18TPI. Do you see the contradiction? > Also, this chart indicates the hex head should measure 0.60 across the > flats for a 5/16" BSW bolt. > > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 13:45:19 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 12:45:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> I got it too and, thinking it related to my recent brake question took the bait (my virus protection just expired and, apparently, Comcast's and Microsoft's antivirus protection is weak). The site appears to be fishing for logons, for FB, AOL, etc. I changed my Comcast password right after I saw this; it has two-factor authentication so I think I'm OK. I blew it (I know better).? I usually view the URL for the download/login links; this caught me off guard. Looks like Ray's contact list has been hacked. bs On 1/18/2021 11:49 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Listers > Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a request to review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My security software caught a problem with the file and would not let it open. Just a heads up. > I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the situation. > Perry > > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 18 13:58:31 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 20:58:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal In-Reply-To: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> References: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1761151495.777293.1611003511101@mail.yahoo.com> I got it too.? Did not open it.? Lucky for me my son is a recent college graduate with a degree in computer sciences.? He is constantly schooling me on cyber security measures.? You have to be weary of ANY attachment in an email.? Even from someone you know.? It just did not look right as there was no explanation as to what the PDF was about by Ray.? Dead giveaway.? Be vigilant my friends.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 12:51 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I got it too and, thinking it related to my recent brake question took the bait (my virus protection just expired and, apparently, Comcast's and Microsoft's antivirus protection is weak). The site appears to be fishing for logons, for FB, AOL, etc. I changed my Comcast password right after I saw this; it has two-factor authentication so I think I'm OK. I blew it (I know better).? I usually view the URL for the download/login links; this caught me off guard. Looks like Ray's contact list has been hacked. bs On 1/18/2021 11:49 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Listers > Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a request to review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My security software caught a problem with the file and would not let it open. Just a heads up. > I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the situation. > Perry > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Mon Jan 18 14:09:12 2021 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 21:09:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal In-Reply-To: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> References: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1439254496.770162.1611004152899@mail.yahoo.com> Sorry guys, the bastards are at it again. Password already changed. I hope this didn't cause anyone too much trouble.Ray On Monday, January 18, 2021, 12:52:09 PM PST, Bob Spidell wrote: I got it too and, thinking it related to my recent brake question took the bait (my virus protection just expired and, apparently, Comcast's and Microsoft's antivirus protection is weak). The site appears to be fishing for logons, for FB, AOL, etc. I changed my Comcast password right after I saw this; it has two-factor authentication so I think I'm OK. I blew it (I know better).? I usually view the URL for the download/login links; this caught me off guard. Looks like Ray's contact list has been hacked. bs On 1/18/2021 11:49 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Listers > Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a request to review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My security software caught a problem with the file and would not let it open. Just a heads up. > I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the situation. > Perry > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 18 14:16:13 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 13:16:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal In-Reply-To: <1761151495.777293.1611003511101@mail.yahoo.com> References: <5a87e317-ee68-1c02-a479-e2a0606840bb@comcast.net> <1761151495.777293.1611003511101@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Well, I have a CS degree too--an old one, but I was in the business until a couple years ago--and it got me (false confidence, I suppose or, just a brain fart). There is no attachment, just links. I'll be offline for a while while I do some scans. Sheesh. On 1/18/2021 12:58 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I got it too.? Did not open it.? Lucky for me my son is a recent > college graduate with a degree in computer sciences.? He is constantly > schooling me on cyber security measures.? You have to be weary of ANY > attachment in an email.? Even from someone you know.? It just did not > look right as there was no explanation as to what the PDF was about by > Ray.? Dead giveaway.? Be vigilant my friends. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 12:51 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > I got it too and, thinking it related to my recent brake question > took > the bait (my virus protection just expired and, apparently, Comcast's > and Microsoft's antivirus protection is weak). The site appears to be > fishing for logons, for FB, AOL, etc. I changed my Comcast password > right after I saw this; it has two-factor authentication so I > think I'm OK. > > I blew it (I know better).? I usually view the URL for the > download/login links; this caught me off guard. Looks like Ray's > contact > list has been hacked. > > bs > > On 1/18/2021 11:49 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > > Listers > > Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a > request to review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My > security software caught a problem with the file and would not let > it open. Just a heads up. > > I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the > situation. > > Perry > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jan 18 17:04:15 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 19:04:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray References: <19D66373-7CC8-4819-804C-A7CA9E23F4B7.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <19D66373-7CC8-4819-804C-A7CA9E23F4B7@aol.com> Ray I?m sending this message through the list because of the following: Ray When I noticed my computer software kicking back at your email attachment I thought I would send an email back to you at the address I had previously and I did send it. I asked if you , Ray, had sent the email. Almost immediately I got a response that told me? I did send the email and open the attachment?. This was interesting. Since there was not the usual ?How ya doin or other pleasantries, I did not follow the bad guys instructions. I suspect he his still lurking in the shadows on your email moniker. Hope you can clean up the mess. Aloha Perry Sent from my iPhone From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jan 18 18:37:14 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 17:37:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Caution Email from Ray Juncal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Guess I'm not as friendly with Ray as I thought. I didn't get the email:( Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Jan 18, 2021, 11:51 AM Perry Small via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > Received an email from an old friend, Ray Juncal, that was a request to > review an attached file. Seemed innocent enough. My security software > caught a problem with the file and would not let it open. Just a heads up. > I did call Rays / Sally?s phone and left a message about the situation. > Perry > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 18 19:26:36 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 02:26:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Install? References: <1330389136.864792.1611023196020.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1330389136.864792.1611023196020@mail.yahoo.com> Is there some special technique to installing the fuel line to the tank of a 100?? With the hole exiting the vertical wall of the boot, the radius bend necessary for the 90 degree connection and the raised rim. Of the threaded bung in the tank it seems impossible.? I bought pre-bent brake and fuel lines several years ago from Doug Finespanner.? The brake lines were pretty close.? Some judicious bending and no problem.? ?Not exactly concour but presentable.? The fuel lines are a different matter.Thicker wall, harder to bend steel tubing and pre-bent in this case is a term you can use loosely.? After a couple hours of bending this way and that, I finally got one end of the line connected to the pump.? Then I went into the trunk and the curve in the line was exiting the hole in the vertical wall at 45 degrees.? More bending, but have to be careful.? It's a tight bend close to the end of the tubing.? Kind of close now, but now I can't lift the tubing enough to put it in the threaded hole in the tank.? What the heck?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Mon Jan 18 22:21:16 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2021 21:21:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Original conception, bent over together, spread open and bent over, or twisted In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2nqc0ghrm6156rpr1jjju99o109kgn5p6r@4ax.com> Well, maybe no one has responded yet so I'll offer what I can. Rolling the tabs up around the jaws of needle nose pliers has some advantages. You can undo it and loosen or remove the beading in case you have some repainting to do. Rolling gives you some torque in pulling the beading down into place. It gets the tabs out of the way without tempting you to cut them short. All to one side or the other or one each on either side depending on the physical situation the tab is in. -Roland On Fri, 15 Jan 2021 19:29:13 +0000, you wrote: >Not sure if this subject was ever covered. In the original conception of the big Healey, how was the tabs on the bottom of the fender beading bent to secure? Over the years I have seen the two tabs bent over the fender lip together, separated and bent over on opposite sides (ft. only), and also twisted together. Anyone know the technique from the factory? > >The Millers > >"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 19 00:38:59 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 07:38:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight.? Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator.? Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at.? At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe.? Good so far.? Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block.? It's a large solid brown wire.? Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire.? That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator.? Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The electrical connections are correct.? The color coding of the harness is not.? I have just started wiring.? What else might I find in the rest of the harness?? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke.? It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild.? Don't know if I should complain about a free harness.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: InkedVolt Reg_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2072855 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: InkedFuses_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2599875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 09:08:44 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 08:08:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. Bob On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components > tonight.? Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator.? > Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is > mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at.? At the > point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse > block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a > brown wire with a green stripe.? Good so far.? Now look what the arrow > is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block.? It's a large > solid brown wire.? Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is > supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire.? > That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there > goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator.? Now look at the > picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is > pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The > electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is > not.? I have just started wiring.? What else might I find in the rest > of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom > Rocke.? It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild.? > Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Jan 19 08:32:42 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 15:32:42 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Request from HDC Member In-Reply-To: References: , , , Message-ID: <000a01d6ee78$5656e5b0$0304b110$@alexarevel.plus.com> Forwarded from a member of our local club:- Simon From: Chris White > Sent: 18 January 2021 15:45 To: Chris White > Subject: Does anyone have a BN-1 - 2 Heater they might sell me? Does anyone have an original BN-1 Heater they might sell me? Failing that, does anybody successfully fitted an aftermarket heater in a BN-1 or 2? Many thanks, Chris White in Devon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jan 19 09:44:20 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 09:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Request from HDC Member In-Reply-To: <000a01d6ee78$5656e5b0$0304b110$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000a01d6ee78$5656e5b0$0304b110$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I've retro fitted TR3 heaters to a BN1/2 On 1/19/2021 8:32 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > Forwarded from a member of our local club:- > > Simon > > *From:*?Chris White > > *Sent:*?18 January 2021 15:45 > *To:*?Chris White > > *Subject:*?Does anyone have a BN-1 - 2 Heater they might sell me? > > Does anyone have an original ?BN-1 Heater they might sell me? > > Failing that, does anybody successfully fitted an aftermarket heater > in a BN-1 or 2? > > Many thanks, > > Chris White in Devon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 10:05:34 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 17:05:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell wrote: > Michael, > > I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from > Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything > worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; > we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in > there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn > lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare > chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not > for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever > ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged > from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw > ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. > > Bob > > On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components > tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking > at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, > but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness > where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the > right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. > Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of > the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram > this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green > stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be > there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the > picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is > pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The > electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is > not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of > the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It > was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I > should complain about a free harness. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 10:51:46 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 09:51:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <743ebbfa-de23-e5f1-e024-4402f8a0c8bc@comcast.net> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). bs On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: > Bob > Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? > > I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming > on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. > This confusing?array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber > turn?lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers > would?not understand?anything but amber. > > The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights > connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to > this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire > being redirected to the new wire. > > On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > Michael, > > I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably > from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and > everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days > double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay > box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered > the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. > This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from > the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the > misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever > ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are > interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should > probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other > stuff needs fixin'. > > Bob > > On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components >> tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator.? >> Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures >> is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at.? >> At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom >> for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow >> is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe.? Good so far.? >> Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the >> fuse block.? It's a large solid brown wire.? Now in the wiring >> diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the >> brown with a green stripe wire.? That brown wire with the green >> strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of >> the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage >> regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is >> the other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The electrical >> connections are correct.? The color coding of the harness is >> not.? I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the >> rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend >> Tom Rocke.? It was one of many free parts he supplied for this >> rebuild.? Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. >> Mike MacLean >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Jan 19 10:53:30 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 17:53:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] wiring harness Message-ID: <3765158527314cb8b29f01dc57d68e511c5fc84f@webmail> Mike- I noticed a 50A (non Lucas) fuse sitting in the lower position of the fuse box. Hope when you finish the wiring that a 35A Lucas or a 15A Buss goes in there. The 50A should go on the battery clips above and if not Lucas Brand then use a 25A Buss fuse. British fuses, labeled as such, are 1/2 of the Amp value we use in the US. If you substitute them with American fuses of equal value they will never blow when needed. Just an observation toward safety...Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Monday January 18 2021 11:48:30PM Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 11:02:13 2021 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 10:02:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Request from HDC Member In-Reply-To: References: <000a01d6ee78$5656e5b0$0304b110$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <09B2A075146245C3A7E1950F47E9A05D@DavidNockHP> Also the Nash Metropolitan and the Morris Minor use the same type of heater core. You need to modify the length of the pipes. We also have installed the new ones that are avaialble and they fit well. The do look different from the side but that is pretty much not visible from sitting in the car. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: David P Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 8:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Request from HDC Member I've retro fitted TR3 heaters to a BN1/2 On 1/19/2021 8:32 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: Forwarded from a member of our local club:- Simon From: Chris White Sent: 18 January 2021 15:45 To: Chris White Subject: Does anyone have a BN-1 - 2 Heater they might sell me? Does anyone have an original BN-1 Heater they might sell me? Failing that, does anybody successfully fitted an aftermarket heater in a BN-1 or 2? Many thanks, Chris White in Devon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 19 16:00:44 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 23:00:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness References: <1934982796.1248872.1611097244141.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1934982796.1248872.1611097244141@mail.yahoo.com> Is the wiring harness the same for right and left hand drive cars?? The only reason I ask is I was watching a YouTube video by Resto Nation.? There is a video on running the wiring harness in the car.? At one point in the video he shows the branch that exits from the main harness near the voltage regulator and goes down to the high/low beam foot switch.? It does not look like that branch off would reach all the way over to the other side.? Am I missing something here like a small connector harness to make it run all the way over to the other side? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Jan 19 17:14:42 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 00:14:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness Message-ID: <13ac4985ddb27b94788b9a8cad59c9c7002edc68@webmail> Harness' of high quality from Rhode Island Wiring as follows: AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN1 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 [May 1953 - Aug. 1955] 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / LHD 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 915.00 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 7. Overdrive Harness 169.00 5. Dash Harness 651.00 8. Body Harness 252.00 6. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 7. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 8. Body Harness 409.00 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 9. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 10. Taillights Harness 313.00 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / RHD 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN2 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 [Aug. 1955 - Aug. 1956] Chassis# 228047 thru 233455 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 5. Stop Light Switch Connector Harness 41.00 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 6. Dash Harness 651.00 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 7. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 8. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 973.00 9. Body Harness 409.00 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 7. Windscreen Wiper Motor Harness 45.00 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 8. Body Harness 252.00 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB4/GT / LHD 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 2. Engine and Headlight Harness 1171.00 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 2. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 90.00 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 3. Dash Harness 822.00 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 4. Body Harness 267.00 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 5. Taillights Harness 508.00 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 -----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 19 2021 3:01:42PM Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness Is the wiring harness the same for right and left hand drive cars? The only reason I ask is I was watching a YouTube video by Resto Nation. There is a video on running the wiring harness in the car. At one point in the video he shows the branch that exits from the main harness near the voltage regulator and goes down to the high/low beam foot switch. It does not look like that branch off would reach all the way over to the other side. Am I missing something here like a small connector harness to make it run all the way over to the other side? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Tue Jan 19 17:52:43 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 16:52:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <13ac4985ddb27b94788b9a8cad59c9c7002edc68@webmail> References: <13ac4985ddb27b94788b9a8cad59c9c7002edc68@webmail> Message-ID: <7fve0g5otvfjael8p4mf70b6ie2k19qvpl@4ax.com> And Rhode Island Wiring will be right. I was lucky to have ordered mine early in my 23 year restoration of #724 but it was expensive even then. Every wire matched the diagram and every wire fit. Also, Rhode Island supplies more detailed schematics to assist you in installing their harnesses. -Roland On Wed, 20 Jan 2021 00:14:42 +0000, you wrote: >Harness' of high quality from Rhode Island Wiring as follows: > > AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN1 > > 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 > [May 1953 - Aug. 1955] > > 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 > 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 > > 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 > > 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / LHD > 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 > > 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 > 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 > > 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 > 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 915.00 > > 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 > 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 > > 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 > 7. Overdrive Harness 169.00 > > 5. Dash Harness 651.00 > 8. Body Harness 252.00 > > 6. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 > 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 > > 7. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 > 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 > > 8. Body Harness 409.00 > 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 > > 9. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 > 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 > > 10. Taillights Harness 313.00 > 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 > > 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 > > 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / RHD > 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 > > 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 > > 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 > AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN2 > > 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 > [Aug. 1955 - Aug. 1956] Chassis# 228047 thru 233455 > > 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 > 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 > > 5. Stop Light Switch Connector Harness 41.00 > 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 > > 6. Dash Harness 651.00 > 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 > > 7. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 > 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 > > 8. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 > 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 973.00 > > 9. Body Harness 409.00 > 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 > > 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 > 7. Windscreen Wiper Motor Harness 45.00 > > 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 > 8. Body Harness 252.00 > > 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 > > 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB4/GT / LHD > 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 > > 2. Engine and Headlight Harness 1171.00 > 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 > > 2. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 90.00 > 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 > > 3. Dash Harness 822.00 > 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 > > 4. Body Harness 267.00 > 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 > > 5. Taillights Harness 508.00 > 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 > > -----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" >To: "Healeys" >Cc: >Sent: Tuesday January 19 2021 3:01:42PM >Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness > > Is the wiring harness the same for right and left hand drive cars? >The only reason I ask is I was watching a YouTube video by Resto >Nation. There is a video on running the wiring harness in the car. At >one point in the video he shows the branch that exits from the main >harness near the voltage regulator and goes down to the high/low beam >foot switch. It does not look like that branch off would reach all the >way over to the other side. Am I missing something here like a small >connector harness to make it run all the way over to the other side? > Mike MacLean -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jan 19 17:55:42 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 00:55:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness In-Reply-To: <13ac4985ddb27b94788b9a8cad59c9c7002edc68@webmail> References: <13ac4985ddb27b94788b9a8cad59c9c7002edc68@webmail> Message-ID: You cannot go wrong with quality. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 19, 2021 6:15 PM To: 'Michael MacLean' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring Harness Harness' of high quality from Rhode Island Wiring as follows: AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN1 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 [May 1953 - Aug. 1955] 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / LHD 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 915.00 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 7. Overdrive Harness 169.00 5. Dash Harness 651.00 8. Body Harness 252.00 6. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 7. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 8. Body Harness 409.00 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 9. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 10. Taillights Harness 313.00 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB Mk III / RHD 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 93.00 2. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 107.00 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-4 BN2 3. Engine and Headlight Harness 982.00 [Aug. 1955 - Aug. 1956] Chassis# 228047 thru 233455 4. Horn Button Ground Wire 9.00 1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 88.00 5. Stop Light Switch Connector Harness 41.00 2. Park and Turn Light Bucket Wires [pair] 106.00 6. Dash Harness 651.00 3. Turn Signal Relay and Horn Harness 207.00 7. Windshield Wiper Motor Harness 226.00 4. Manette Control Harness 45.00 8. Windshield Washer Harness 41.00 5. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 973.00 9. Body Harness 409.00 6. Dimmer Switch Harness 75.00 10. Fuel Tank Connector Wire 7.00 7. Windscreen Wiper Motor Harness 45.00 11. Taillights Harness 313.00 8. Body Harness 252.00 9. Taillights Harness 159.00 1959 ASTON MARTIN DB4/GT / LHD 10. Negative Batt.to Starter Switch Cable 90.00 2. Engine and Headlight Harness 1171.00 11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00 2. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 90.00 12. Starter Switch to Starter Cable 24.00 3. Dash Harness 822.00 13. Positive Battery to Master Switch Strap 55.00 4. Body Harness 267.00 14. Master Switch to Ground Strap 13.00 5. Taillights Harness 508.00 15. Engine to Frame Ground Strap 13.00 ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 19 2021 3:01:42PM Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness Is the wiring harness the same for right and left hand drive cars? The only reason I ask is I was watching a YouTube video by Resto Nation. There is a video on running the wiring harness in the car. At one point in the video he shows the branch that exits from the main harness near the voltage regulator and goes down to the high/low beam foot switch. It does not look like that branch off would reach all the way over to the other side. Am I missing something here like a small connector harness to make it run all the way over to the other side? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Jan 19 20:53:07 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 03:53:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <743ebbfa-de23-e5f1-e024-4402f8a0c8bc@comcast.net> References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> , <743ebbfa-de23-e5f1-e024-4402f8a0c8bc@comcast.net> Message-ID: The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM To: john harper Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). bs On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: Bob Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell > wrote: Michael, I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. Bob On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 23:01:29 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2021 22:01:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> <743ebbfa-de23-e5f1-e024-4402f8a0c8bc@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire > is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the > regulator. > > The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH > 100 Service Manual. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM > *To:* john harper > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. > Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were > 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that > supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked > (would be a good idea, though). > bs > > On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >> Bob >> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >> >> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming >> on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. >> This confusing?array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber >> turn?lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers >> would?not understand?anything but amber. >> >> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights >> connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to >> this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire >> being redirected to the new wire. >> >> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell > > wrote: >> >> Michael, >> >> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably >> from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and >> everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days >> double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay >> box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered >> the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. >> This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from >> the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the >> misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever >> ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are >> interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should >> probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other >> stuff needs fixin'. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of >>> components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage >>> regulator.? Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the >>> two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are >>> pointing at.? At the point in the harness where the wires come >>> out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right >>> hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green >>> stripe.? Good so far.? Now look what the arrow is pointing at on >>> the other side of the fuse block.? It's a large solid brown >>> wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to >>> be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire.? That >>> brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there >>> goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator.? Now look >>> at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the >>> orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, >>> large brown wire!? The electrical connections are correct.? The >>> color coding of the harness is not.? I have just started >>> wiring.? What else might I find in the rest of the harness?? >>> This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke.? It was >>> one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild.? Don't know >>> if I should complain about a free harness. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Jan 20 02:27:36 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:27:36 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> References: <1246393228.921363.1611041941196.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1246393228.921363.1611041941196@mail.yahoo.com> <743ebbfa-de23-e5f1-e024-4402f8a0c8bc@comcast.net> <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001901d6ef0e$7f1d8530$7d588f90$@alexarevel.plus.com> Which is why, If my memory serves me right, the horns are alone on the 50amp fuse while anything else that is fused shares the single 35amp. (On my 3000). I never really got my head around that. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 20 January 2021 06:01 To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; john harper Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM To: john harper Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). bs On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: Bob Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell > wrote: Michael, I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. Bob On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Jan 20 05:43:48 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 23:43:48 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. I love most Lucas stuff. Except Lucas Horns. Devils stuff. The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. Waste of everything > On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). > > Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? > > > > On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. >> >> The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> BN1 #554 >> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM >> To: john harper >> Cc: Healeys >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. >> >> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). >> bs >> >> On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >>> Bob >>> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >>> >>> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. >>> >>> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. >>> >>> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> Michael, >>> >>> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. >>>> Mike MacLean >>>> >>> >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 20 07:01:23 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:01:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> References: <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Message-ID: Interesting! As I read the words horns and prince of darkness my mind formed a very strange image. With a little therapy I hope that it will go away...... Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:45 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > ? > Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. > I love most Lucas stuff. > Except Lucas Horns. > Devils stuff. > The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. > Waste of everything > > > >>> On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >> ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). >> >> Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? >> >> >> >> On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. >>> >>> The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM >>> To: john harper >>> Cc: Healeys >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. >>> >>> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). >>> bs >>> >>> On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >>>> Bob >>>> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >>>> >>>> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. >>>> >>>> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> Michael, >>>> >>>> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>>> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness. >>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 20 07:47:03 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:47:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Prince of darkness References: <69FEC7F4-A71D-46DC-9C56-10A63B4D3D80.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <69FEC7F4-A71D-46DC-9C56-10A63B4D3D80@aol.com> ?I would say that this specimen might qualify as the prince of darkness as there are horns and an Austin Healey but that would be ? udderly ? ridiculous ! Hey it?s Wednesday and it snowed again last night!!!! P -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8003.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 139716 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 20 07:50:28 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:50:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Prince of darkness References: <69FEC7F4-A71D-46DC-9C56-10A63B4D3D80@aol.com> Message-ID: <03409833-DB2E-427C-BFF1-D9CB38184933@aol.com> Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Perry Small > Date: January 20, 2021 at 9:47:03 AM EST > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Prince of darkness > > ?I would say that this specimen might qualify as the prince of darkness as there are horns and an Austin Healey but that would be ? udderly ? ridiculous ! Hey it?s Wednesday and it snowed again last night!!!! > P > > > > Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8003.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 139716 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Jan 20 09:39:24 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 16:39:24 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: HDC Archive - Oct / Nov 1956 - Original 100/6 Report In-Reply-To: References: <013101d6dd0c$a8d81d90$fa8858b0$@btinternet.com> Message-ID: <000001d6ef4a$d0aee6f0$720cb4d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thought this might be of interest to 100/6 people. Forwarded from our local HDC " Hello everyone Please see this next online issue of HDC history. This is an original report on the 100/6 written by the Club for inclusion in the Oct/Nov issue of the magazine in 1956. Thanks to our Editor, Rod Graham for identifying this article, the Healey Museum for supplying all of the original documents to the HDC and neighbour and ex Healey owner (we all make mistakes!)Mike Quinn for his skill and patience in collecting and storing many years of paperwork and magazines for the future benefit of Members. Regards Dave HDC Membership" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: HDC Mag Archive - 100-6 - Oct and Nov 1956.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 3686806 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 20 12:07:52 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 20:07:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Message-ID: Best horns in the world. Imminently repairable and thus durable. They may be heavy but they are well engineered. All Lucas horns until the late seventies were fit to repair. Mostly the points are dirty after they have been idle for a long time. Drilling out the rivets, cleaning the points, cutting a few gaskets and some small bolts and nuts instead of the rivets, will see them in full operation again. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-1-2021 om 13:43 schreef Chris Dimmock: > Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. > I love most Lucas stuff. > Except Lucas Horns. > Devils stuff. > The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. > Waste of everything > > > >> On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total >> output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). >> >> Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? >> >> >> >> On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown >>> wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on >>> the regulator. >>> >>> The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH >>> 100 Service Manual. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >>> Spidell >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM >>> *To:* john harper >>> *Cc:* Healeys >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. >>> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were >>> 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that >>> supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked >>> (would be a good idea, though). >>> bs >>> >>> On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >>>> Bob >>>> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >>>> >>>> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights >>>> coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and >>>> brakes. This confusing?array is therefore dangerous. In the UK >>>> amber turn?lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger >>>> drivers would?not understand?anything but amber. >>>> >>>> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights >>>> connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to >>>> this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire >>>> being redirected to the new wire. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Michael, >>>> >>>> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 >>>> (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality >>>> overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent >>>> 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open >>>> the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I >>>> eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn >>>> lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired >>>> a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been >>>> 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably >>>> never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be >>>> confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the >>>> schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the >>>> flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of >>>>> components tonight.? Specifically, the fuse block and the >>>>> voltage regulator.? Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you >>>>> see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what >>>>> the arrows are pointing at.? At the point in the harness where >>>>> the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see >>>>> on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire >>>>> with a green stripe.? Good so far.? Now look what the arrow is >>>>> pointing at on the other side of the fuse block.? It's a large >>>>> solid brown wire.? Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire >>>>> is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green >>>>> stripe wire.? That brown wire with the green strip that was >>>>> supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage >>>>> regulator.? Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator >>>>> and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the >>>>> other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The electrical >>>>> connections are correct.? The color coding of the harness is >>>>> not.? I have just started wiring.? What else might I find in >>>>> the rest of the harness?? This harness was a gift from my late >>>>> friend Tom Rocke.? It was one of many free parts he supplied >>>>> for this rebuild.? Don't know if I should complain about a >>>>> free harness. >>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 20 12:14:00 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 14:14:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Message-ID: A pair of FIAMM or equivalent air horns and the compressor for same fits nicely onto the front face of the passenger toe box of my 100, produces a loud and pleasant signal and consumes very little power. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 7:44 AM Chris Dimmock wrote: > Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. > I love most Lucas stuff. > Except Lucas Horns. > Devils stuff. > The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. > Waste of everything > > > > On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total > output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). > > Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? > > > > On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is > connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. > > The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 > Service Manual. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys > on behalf of Bob Spidell > > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM > *To:* john harper > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. > > Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' > The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for > separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). > bs > > On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: > > Bob > Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? > > I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on > is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This > confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have > been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not > understand anything but amber. > > The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected > on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional > wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the > new wire. > > On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Michael, > > I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from > Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything > worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; > we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in > there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn > lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare > chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not > for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever > ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged > from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw > ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. > > Bob > > On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components > tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking > at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, > but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness > where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the > right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. > Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of > the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram > this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green > stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be > there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the > picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is > pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The > electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is > not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of > the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It > was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I > should complain about a free harness. > Mike MacLean > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jan 20 12:58:46 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 14:58:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Message-ID: When properly adjusted, the HF1748 horns fitted to the 100 - 3000 MkI are supposed to consume only 4 amps each according to the Lucas Workshop Instructions K-4.? So the 50 amp fuse for just the horns seems a bit high to me.? Wonder what they'll consume when not properly adjusted? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/20/21 2:14 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > A pair of FIAMM or equivalent air horns and the compressor for same > fits nicely onto the front?face of the passenger toe box of?my 100, > produces a loud and pleasant signal and consumes very little power. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 7:44 AM Chris Dimmock > wrote: > > Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. > I love most Lucas stuff. > Except Lucas Horns. > Devils stuff. > The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. > Waste of everything > > > >> On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell > > wrote: >> >> ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total >> output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). >> >> Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? >> >> >> >> On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown >>> wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact >>> on the regulator. >>> >>> The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. >>> Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> *From:* Healeys >>> on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM >>> *To:* john harper >>> *Cc:* Healeys >>> >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. >>> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were >>> 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any >>> that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I >>> haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). >>> bs >>> >>> On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >>>> Bob >>>> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >>>> >>>> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights >>>> coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner >>>> and brakes. This confusing?array is therefore dangerous. In the >>>> UK amber turn?lights have been mandatory for many years. >>>> Younger drivers would?not understand?anything but amber. >>>> >>>> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights >>>> connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights >>>> to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one >>>> wire being redirected to the new wire. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Michael, >>>> >>>> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 >>>> (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good >>>> quality overall, and everything worked except the turn >>>> signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went >>>> so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good >>>> in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the >>>> rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed >>>> me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic >>>> and it would have been 100% correct if not for the >>>> misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but >>>> whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of >>>> wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of >>>> it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I >>>> finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of >>>>> components tonight.? Specifically, the fuse block and the >>>>> voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way >>>>> you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at >>>>> what the arrows are pointing at.? At the point in the >>>>> harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse >>>>> block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is >>>>> pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe.? Good so >>>>> far.? Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other >>>>> side of the fuse block.? It's a large solid brown wire.? >>>>> Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to >>>>> be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire.? >>>>> That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to >>>>> be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage >>>>> regulator.? Now look at the picture of the voltage >>>>> regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. >>>>> It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The >>>>> electrical connections are correct.? The color coding of >>>>> the harness is not.? I have just started wiring.? What >>>>> else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness >>>>> was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke.? It was one of >>>>> many free parts he supplied for this rebuild.? Don't know >>>>> if I should complain about a free harness. >>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 20 14:45:04 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 22:45:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4e7cfd06-d770-30cf-f765-f956e118ab73@chello.nl> The Fiamm compressor (at least the period one like Road Master, Mercury or serie 2000) draws about 20/25A, about the same as two Lucas electric ones if they are the big ones. The later smaller H&L ones use quite a bit less. The Fiamm horns sound and look very nice though. They do need maintainance though. A few drops of light oil every month. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-1-2021 om 20:14 schreef Michael Oritt: > A pair of FIAMM or equivalent air horns and the compressor for same > fits nicely onto the front?face of the passenger toe box of?my 100, > produces a loud and pleasant signal and consumes very little power. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 7:44 AM Chris Dimmock > wrote: > > Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. > I love most Lucas stuff. > Except Lucas Horns. > Devils stuff. > The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. > Waste of everything > > > >> On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell > > wrote: >> >> ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total >> output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). >> >> Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? >> >> >> >> On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown >>> wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact >>> on the regulator. >>> >>> The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. >>> Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> *From:* Healeys >>> on behalf of Bob Spidell >>> >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM >>> *To:* john harper >>> *Cc:* Healeys >>> >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. >>> Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were >>> 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any >>> that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I >>> haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). >>> bs >>> >>> On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: >>>> Bob >>>> Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? >>>> >>>> I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights >>>> coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner >>>> and brakes. This confusing?array is therefore dangerous. In the >>>> UK amber turn?lights have been mandatory for many years. >>>> Younger drivers would?not understand?anything but amber. >>>> >>>> The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights >>>> connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights >>>> to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one >>>> wire being redirected to the new wire. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Michael, >>>> >>>> I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 >>>> (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good >>>> quality overall, and everything worked except the turn >>>> signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went >>>> so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good >>>> in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the >>>> rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed >>>> me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic >>>> and it would have been 100% correct if not for the >>>> misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but >>>> whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of >>>> wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of >>>> it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I >>>> finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>> Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of >>>>> components tonight.? Specifically, the fuse block and the >>>>> voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way >>>>> you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at >>>>> what the arrows are pointing at.? At the point in the >>>>> harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse >>>>> block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is >>>>> pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe.? Good so >>>>> far.? Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other >>>>> side of the fuse block.? It's a large solid brown wire.? >>>>> Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to >>>>> be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire.? >>>>> That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to >>>>> be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage >>>>> regulator.? Now look at the picture of the voltage >>>>> regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. >>>>> It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire!? The >>>>> electrical connections are correct.? The color coding of >>>>> the harness is not.? I have just started wiring.? What >>>>> else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness >>>>> was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke.? It was one of >>>>> many free parts he supplied for this rebuild.? Don't know >>>>> if I should complain about a free harness. >>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Jan 20 17:18:50 2021 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 19:18:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. In-Reply-To: <4e7cfd06-d770-30cf-f765-f956e118ab73@chello.nl> References: <9590abb7-e20b-f544-239c-6eee6494df89@comcast.net> <1C1BC839-9FE6-4A5D-B239-96BAAEABE7BE@gmail.com> <4e7cfd06-d770-30cf-f765-f956e118ab73@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1284147318.12596296.1611188330675.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> have them on my BJ8 for years--never a problem. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 16:45:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. The Fiamm compressor (at least the period one like Road Master, Mercury or serie 2000) draws about 20/25A, about the same as two Lucas electric ones if they are the big ones. The later smaller H&L ones use quite a bit less.The Fiamm horns sound and look very nice though. They do need maintainance though. A few drops of light oil every month.Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-1-2021 om 20:14 schreef Michael Oritt: A pair of FIAMM or equivalent air horns and the compressor for same fits nicely onto the front face of the passenger toe box of my 100, produces a loud and pleasant signal and consumes very little power. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 7:44 AM Chris Dimmock wrote: Lucas horns are the crowns of the prince of darkness. I love most Lucas stuff. Except Lucas Horns. Devils stuff. The Lucas horn in my A40 Farina weighs 2.5 Kg. Waste of everything On 20 Jan 2021, at 5:02 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: ? Man, those horns take a lot of juice. That's about the total output--25A, give or take--of a stock generator (maybe less at idle). Anybody ever laid on the horns with the lights on? On 1/19/2021 7:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The Brown/Green wire is the power supply for the horn. The brown wire is connected to an unswitched power source, the A contact on the regulator. The wires are correct as is the 50 amp Lucas slow blow fuse. Ref: AH 100 Service Manual. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 5:51 PM To: john harper Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Late Monday night rant. Nope. All wires were otherwise accounted-for; two were 'cross-colored.' The harness was brand new; I don't know of any that supply extra wiring for separate turn signals, but I haven't looked (would be a good idea, though). bs On 1/19/2021 9:05 AM, john harper wrote: Bob Could it be a wrong wire or an additional one? I and many others in the UK feel that with just two red lights coming on is very confusing particularly as one enters a corner and brakes. This confusing array is therefore dangerous. In the UK amber turn lights have been mandatory for many years. Younger drivers would not understand anything but amber. The mod we make for the back of the car is to add amber lights connected on the existing wires but connect both red stoplights to this additional wire. At the relay box, all is needed is one wire being redirected to the new wire. On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 16:10, Bob Spidell wrote: Michael, I feel your pain. My dad got a new harness for our BN2 (probably from Moss). I thought the harness was good quality overall, and everything worked except the turn signals. I spent 3 days double-checking everything; we went so far as to open the relay box, but everything looked good in there. I eventually discovered the wiring to one of the rear brake/turn lights was mis-colored. This really pissed me off, as I'd wired a bare chassis just from the schematic and it would have been 100% correct if not for the misidentified wire. I'll probably never sell the car, but whoever ends up with it will be confused, as a couple of wires are interchanged from the schematic. Come to think of it, I should probably label the flaw ... as soon as I finish all the other stuff needs fixin'. Bob On 1/18/2021 11:38 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Was in the engine bay doing some preliminary wiring of components tonight. Specifically, the fuse block and the voltage regulator. Looking at a wiring diagram, the way you see in the two pictures is mostly correct, but look at what the arrows are pointing at. At the point in the harness where the wires come out of the loom for the fuse block, you can see on the right hand side the arrow is pointing to a brown wire with a green stripe. Good so far. Now look what the arrow is pointing at on the other side of the fuse block. It's a large solid brown wire. Now in the wiring diagram this brown wire is supposed to be a continuation of the brown with a green stripe wire. That brown wire with the green strip that was supposed to be there goes to the "A" connection of the voltage regulator. Now look at the picture of the voltage regulator and notice what the orange arrow is pointing at. It is the other end of the plain, large brown wire! The electrical connections are correct. The color coding of the harness is not. I have just started wiring. What else might I find in the rest of the harness? This harness was a gift from my late friend Tom Rocke. It was one of many free parts he supplied for this rebuild. Don't know if I should complain about a free harness.Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gvernau at gmail.com Wed Jan 20 17:47:57 2021 From: gvernau at gmail.com (George Vernau Sr) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 18:47:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] clutch slave cylinder bleeding Message-ID: I'm going to rebuild the clutch slave and master this weekend on my 3000. It;s been many years since I last did this and I remember it being a serious challenge to get to the slave cylinder bleeder. Does anyone have any advice or words of wisdom to bleed the system? Thanks, George Vernau 1967 3000 original owner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 20 21:13:02 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2021 20:13:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] clutch slave cylinder bleeding In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Nothing has changed since you last did this. The bleeder is nigh impossible to reach from below; one time, I was able to unbolt the slave cyl, drop it, and perform bleeding (I think I was bleeding a bit when I was done). It's easily done from the top, but you have to pull the console and gearbox cover. Some of us have fitted an extension to make life easier the 'next time.' I bled mine once in the parking lot of a restaurant, waiting for it to open. Bob On 1/20/2021 4:47 PM, George Vernau Sr wrote: > I'm going to rebuild the clutch?slave and master this weekend on my > 3000. It;s been many years since I last did this and I remember it > being a serious challenge?to get to the slave cylinder bleeder. Does > anyone have any advice or words of wisdom to?bleed the?system? > Thanks, > George Vernau > 1967 3000? original owner > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bleeder.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 130527 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 20 22:14:57 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 05:14:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma References: <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926@mail.yahoo.com> As you can see in the two photos I am trying to connect the overdrive relay to the wiring harness.? Tonight's problem is not with the color coding of the wires.? It is the markings on the relay.? I have included a shot of my wiring diagram to illustrate.? In the diagram the connections on the relay should be W1, W2, C1 and C2.? As you can see on the relay it is clearly marked W1, W2, C2 and C3.? I'm confused enough with trying to wire this car as it is.? Having mismarked components doesn't help.? Just so you know, the wiring diagram in the original service manual shows the same as my color coded diagram.? Wrong relay?? Maybe mistaken relay.? At first I thought so, but I have two overdrive relays and they are marked the same.? I have been buying parts over several years and have duplicated purchase during a sale not knowing I bought the same part even cheaper a few years before.? So who is wrong, the diagram (I doubt it) or the part?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210119.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1809658 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210155.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2229137 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Thu Jan 21 06:41:29 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 13:41:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma In-Reply-To: <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael I have not checked the circuit diagram that you use but you would better to use those in the workshop manual. The BN1 version shows the wiring to two overdrive relays and the centrifugal switch and to the wiring to the overdrive. BN2 version has far less wiring. There are also differences between the two, around the flasher unit. On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 at 05:28, Michael MacLean wrote: > As you can see in the two photos I am trying to connect the overdrive > relay to the wiring harness. Tonight's problem is not with the color > coding of the wires. It is the markings on the relay. I have included a > shot of my wiring diagram to illustrate. In the diagram the connections on > the relay should be W1, W2, C1 and C2. As you can see on the relay it is > clearly marked W1, W2, C2 and C3. I'm confused enough with trying to wire > this car as it is. Having mismarked components doesn't help. Just so you > know, the wiring diagram in the original service manual shows the same as > my color coded diagram. Wrong relay? Maybe mistaken relay. At first I > thought so, but I have two overdrive relays and they are marked the same. > I have been buying parts over several years and have duplicated purchase > during a sale not knowing I bought the same part even cheaper a few years > before. So who is wrong, the diagram (I doubt it) or the part? > Mike MacLean > > > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210119.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1809658 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210155.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2229137 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 21 10:18:49 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 17:18:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma In-Reply-To: References: <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2014070177.1775147.1611206097926@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <843449763.1956666.1611249530528@mail.yahoo.com> John,???? Go back and re-read my email.? I stated that the wiring diagram in the original shop manual for the BN2 shows the exact same wiring as the color coded one I am using.? I frequently check the two against each other and have yet to find a difference.Mike M On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 5:41:51 AM PST, john harper wrote: Michael I have not checked the circuit diagram that you use but you would better to use those in the workshop?manual.? The BN1 version shows the wiring to two overdrive?relays and the?centrifugal?switch and to the wiring to the overdrive. BN2 version has far less wiring. There are also differences between?the two, around the flasher unit. On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 at 05:28, Michael MacLean wrote: As you can see in the two photos I am trying to connect the overdrive relay to the wiring harness.? Tonight's problem is not with the color coding of the wires.? It is the markings on the relay.? I have included a shot of my wiring diagram to illustrate.? In the diagram the connections on the relay should be W1, W2, C1 and C2.? As you can see on the relay it is clearly marked W1, W2, C2 and C3.? I'm confused enough with trying to wire this car as it is.? Having mismarked components doesn't help.? Just so you know, the wiring diagram in the original service manual shows the same as my color coded diagram.? Wrong relay?? Maybe mistaken relay.? At first I thought so, but I have two overdrive relays and they are marked the same.? I have been buying parts over several years and have duplicated purchase during a sale not knowing I bought the same part even cheaper a few years before.? So who is wrong, the diagram (I doubt it) or the part?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210119.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1809658 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210120_210155.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2229137 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Jan 21 13:27:59 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:27:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] clutch slave cylinder bleeding In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At Smitty's suggestion I mounted my secondary cylinder with only one bolt with a headless stud taking the place of the second one, to make removal easier. I also created a removable door at the very front of the transmission tunnel to give easier access for bleeding. All that said installing an extension bleeder hose would definitely make things easy and this is something I plan to do the next time I need to access the cylinder--which I hope is a long time off... Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 11:13 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > Nothing has changed since you last did this. The bleeder is nigh > impossible to reach from below; one time, I was able to unbolt the slave > cyl, drop it, and perform bleeding (I think I was bleeding a bit when I > was done). It's easily done from the top, but you have to pull the > console and gearbox cover. Some of us have fitted an extension to make > life easier the 'next time.' I bled mine once in the parking lot of a > restaurant, waiting for it to open. > > Bob > > On 1/20/2021 4:47 PM, George Vernau Sr wrote: > > I'm going to rebuild the clutch slave and master this weekend on my > > 3000. It;s been many years since I last did this and I remember it > > being a serious challenge to get to the slave cylinder bleeder. Does > > anyone have any advice or words of wisdom to bleed the system? > > Thanks, > > George Vernau > > 1967 3000 original owner > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Jan 21 13:30:48 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 20:30:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] front shock removal References: <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550@mail.yahoo.com> If the front wheels are off & the car (BJ7) is supported in the front by jack stands under the front splines, can a front shock be removed without having to relieve the spring pressure? I.E. without having to drop the spring plate under the spring???Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 21 13:42:58 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:42:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] front shock removal In-Reply-To: <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: No Gary, that's dangerous. The stands need to be under the the lower "A" arms as far outboard as possible. M On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 3:31 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > If the front wheels are off & the car (BJ7) is supported in the front by > jack stands under the front splines, can a front shock be removed without > having to relieve the spring pressure? I.E. without having to drop the > spring plate under the spring? > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Jan 21 13:51:45 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:51:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] front shock removal In-Reply-To: References: <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1498734523.4044500.1611261048550@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004a01d6f037$3bb6edc0$b324c940$@sympatico.ca> I prefer to have the stands under the frame so the car is solidly supported, rather than under a sprung component. I then us a jack to raise the lower A-arm and compress the spring enough to get the shock arm off the bump stop.. A second jack can be placed under the A-arm when the shock is off, if need be (i.e. if you don?t want to tie your jack up). Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: January 21, 2021 3:43 PM To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] front shock removal No Gary, that's dangerous. The stands need to be under the the lower "A" arms as far outboard as possible. M On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 3:31 PM warthodson--- via Healeys > wrote: If the front wheels are off & the car (BJ7) is supported in the front by jack stands under the front splines, can a front shock be removed without having to relieve the spring pressure? I.E. without having to drop the spring plate under the spring? Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Jan 21 15:32:53 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2021 22:32:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma Message-ID: <5a5ec5f3875cc11479cf2969703b2e26e394e2d3@webmail> Lucas being Lucas, there were many versions of similar parts...mostly to avoid inventory taxes. They still got caught. However, the 2 overdrive relays 33177 were the same part number from chassis 138031 to 228046 when they then went to one relay-same number. Then the screws mounting the unit were changed but not the relay itself. All Healeys used the exact same part above. There were similar relays: 33217 and 33204 used on different cars that could look the same, but maybe had there terminals in different locations. You should always check the stamped part number and DATE on all Lucas parts prior to installing them to be sure they are for your car. Regards, Hank -----------------------------------------From: "john harper" To: "Michael MacLean" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Thursday January 21 2021 5:50:15AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma Michael I have not checked the circuit diagram that you use but you would better to use those in the workshop manual. The BN1 version shows the wiring to two overdrive relays and the centrifugal switch and to the wiring to the overdrive. BN2 version has far less wiring. There are also differences between the two, around the flasher unit. On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 at 05:28, Michael MacLean wrote: As you can see in the two photos I am trying to connect the overdrive relay to the wiring harness. Tonight's problem is not with the color coding of the wires. It is the markings on the relay. I have included a shot of my wiring diagram to illustrate. In the diagram the connections on the relay should be W1, W2, C1 and C2. As you can see on the relay it is clearly marked W1, W2, C2 and C3. I'm confused enough with trying to wire this car as it is. Having mismarked components doesn't help. Just so you know, the wiring diagram in the original service manual shows the same as my color coded diagram. Wrong relay? Maybe mistaken relay. At first I thought so, but I have two overdrive relays and they are marked the same. I have been buying parts over several years and have duplicated purchase during a sale not knowing I bought the same part even cheaper a few years before. So who is wrong, the diagram (I doubt it) or the part? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] [6]http://autox.team.net/archive [7] Healeys at autox.team.net [8]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] Unsubscribe/Manage: [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com [11] Links: ------ [1] https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: s-l1600 (2).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 23366 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Jan 21 19:10:39 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 10:10:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma In-Reply-To: <5a5ec5f3875cc11479cf2969703b2e26e394e2d3@webmail> References: <5a5ec5f3875cc11479cf2969703b2e26e394e2d3@webmail> Message-ID: It's a relay. All you need to do is hook power up to it and then check that the switch is going on and off correctly... C2 and C3 are likely the same thing as C1 and C2. On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 6:33 AM wrote: > Lucas being Lucas, there were many versions of similar parts..mostly to > avoid inventory taxes. They still got caught. However, the 2 overdrive > relays 33177 were the same part number from chassis 138031 to 228046 when > they then went to one relay-same number. Then the screws mounting the unit > were changed but not the relay itself. All Healeys used the exact same > part above. There were similar relays: 33217 and 33204 used on different > cars that could look the same, but maybe had there terminals in different > locations. You should always check the stamped part number and DATE on all > Lucas parts prior to installing them to be sure they are for your car. > Regards, Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "john harper" > To: "Michael MacLean" > Cc: "Healeys" > Sent: Thursday January 21 2021 5:50:15AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tonight's Wiring Dilemma > > Michael > > I have not checked the circuit diagram that you use but you would better > to use those in the workshop manual. The BN1 version shows the wiring to > two overdrive relays and the centrifugal switch and to the wiring to the > overdrive. BN2 version has far less wiring. There are also differences > between the two, around the flasher unit. > > On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 at 05:28, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> As you can see in the two photos I am trying to connect the overdrive >> relay to the wiring harness. Tonight's problem is not with the color >> coding of the wires. It is the markings on the relay. I have included a >> shot of my wiring diagram to illustrate. In the diagram the connections on >> the relay should be W1, W2, C1 and C2. As you can see on the relay it is >> clearly marked W1, W2, C2 and C3. I'm confused enough with trying to wire >> this car as it is. Having mismarked components doesn't help. Just so you >> know, the wiring diagram in the original service manual shows the same as >> my color coded diagram. Wrong relay? Maybe mistaken relay. At first I >> thought so, but I have two overdrive relays and they are marked the same. >> I have been buying parts over several years and have duplicated purchase >> during a sale not knowing I bought the same part even cheaper a few years >> before. So who is wrong, the diagram (I doubt it) or the part? >> Mike MacLean >> [image: Trash13465e3e61fc9e5da7c77187d0f28ec4941] >> [image: Trash13465c9c050611cfb7f0e960dcb385fa2e6] >> >> >> >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: >> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Jan 22 11:39:31 2021 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 10:39:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?fan?= Message-ID: <20210122183931.39016.qmail@server278.com> was the original fan on a BT7 painted yellow? got one that is black. From manifold at telus.net Fri Jan 22 11:56:58 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 10:56:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] fan In-Reply-To: <20210122183931.39016.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210122183931.39016.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: The four bladed metal fan on my BT7 manufactured in Nov 1960 was painted yellow. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 10:40 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] fan was the original fan on a BT7 painted yellow? got one that is black. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From manifold at telus.net Fri Jan 22 12:31:32 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 11:31:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections Message-ID: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> Hello, I have a very good 2 post replica of the original 3 post Battery Master Switch BMC part 1B2804. How did the original 3 post work? I found this schematic that Moss did. Does it work like this: In the ON position B and E are connected and in the OFF position E and C-B are connected? If this is the case then there is no place to connect C-B on a 2 pole switch. Do I have this right? Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Battery Master Switch 1B2804.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 65109 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 22 12:43:27 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 14:43:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections In-Reply-To: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> References: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> Message-ID: Yes .... B = battery, E = earth (ground) cb = contact breaker (ignition points) M On Fri., Jan. 22, 2021, 2:31 p.m. Harold Manifold, wrote: > Hello, > > I have a very good 2 post replica of the original 3 post Battery Master > Switch BMC part 1B2804. How did the original 3 post work? I found this > schematic that Moss did. Does it work like this: In the ON position B and E > are connected and in the OFF position E and C-B are connected? If this is > the case then there is no place to connect C-B on a 2 pole switch. > > Do I have this right? > > Harold > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Battery Master Switch 1B2804.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 65109 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Jan 22 13:16:53 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2021 20:16:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections In-Reply-To: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> References: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> Message-ID: I believe many disconnect the c-b wire because it often causes problems so your 2 post switch may work. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Harold Manifold Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 11:31 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections Hello, I have a very good 2 post replica of the original 3 post Battery Master Switch BMC part 1B2804. How did the original 3 post work? I found this schematic that Moss did. Does it work like this: In the ON position B and E are connected and in the OFF position E and C-B are connected? If this is the case then there is no place to connect C-B on a 2 pole switch. Do I have this right? Harold [cid:643582019 at 22012021-226E] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Battery Master Switch 1B2804.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 65109 bytes Desc: Battery Master Switch 1B2804.JPG URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Jan 23 07:00:48 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2021 14:00:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections In-Reply-To: References: <4D0CBA8BE572471C845E68724B7222AA@AllInOne> Message-ID: Richard The circuit diagram is correct. In one position the switch connects the battery to the chassis through heavy terminals. In the other position, the battery is disconnected from the chassis with the thinner white wire connected via a smaller terminal through to the coil. Thus not only disconnects the battery and stops everything working but should a thief make a temporary reconnection from the battery to the chassis the car still would not start because the contact in the distributor would be shorted out leading to no spark be produced by the coil. On Fri, 22 Jan 2021 at 20:17, Richard Kahn wrote: > I believe many disconnect the c-b wire because it often causes problems so > your 2 post switch may work. > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Harold > Manifold > *Sent:* Friday, January 22, 2021 11:31 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Battery Master Switch Connections > > Hello, > > I have a very good 2 post replica of the original 3 post Battery Master > Switch BMC part 1B2804. How did the original 3 post work? I found this > schematic that Moss did. Does it work like this: In the ON position B and E > are connected and in the OFF position E and C-B are connected? If this is > the case then there is no place to connect C-B on a 2 pole switch. > > Do I have this right? > > Harold > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Battery Master Switch 1B2804.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 65109 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Jan 23 07:09:18 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2021 14:09:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Clutch Bleed Message-ID: <3CB81828-3347-4FE0-A2A6-C942F6F68089@gmail.com> Two tips from the late, great Norman Nock. 1:- When the slave is off the bell housing, cut the head off one of the fixing bolts and loctite it into the top bolt hole. It will act as a dowel for the slave cylinder and only the (easy) lower bolt has to be removed in the future. 2:- Bleed the clutch circuit by using the slave piston to push air back up to the master. Air in the line will naturally rise to the top. It can then be pushed back to the master (And to atmosphere) by pushing the slave piston back into its cylinder. It will take two or three goes to complete the process, so pump the slave piston back out gently using the clutch pedal. Gentle and slow so that any air stays at the top bend of the pipe. Alan - from my iPad From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Jan 23 19:30:40 2021 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2021 21:30:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings Message-ID: <399DC90B-831A-4E73-931E-8AF335CEE743@gmail.com> I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 23 21:00:35 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2021 23:00:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings In-Reply-To: <399DC90B-831A-4E73-931E-8AF335CEE743@gmail.com> References: <399DC90B-831A-4E73-931E-8AF335CEE743@gmail.com> Message-ID: <010701d6f205$781775d0$68466170$@sympatico.ca> If they were set up correctly with the shims and spacer, and tightened to the correct torque before securing the castellated nut with a split pin, there should be no need to re-torque them. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: January 23, 2021 9:31 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jan 23 22:19:42 2021 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 00:19:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings In-Reply-To: <399DC90B-831A-4E73-931E-8AF335CEE743@gmail.com> References: <399DC90B-831A-4E73-931E-8AF335CEE743@gmail.com> Message-ID: <045301d6f210$85e9aa10$91bcfe30$@rr.com> No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec on installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 24 10:26:23 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 17:26:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings Message-ID: <2ecc1c19df768c66f48047eaa610e0d376f88bef@webmail> The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow you to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter (splitpin). If you did not change the bearings (just repacked them) then there is no need to measure...replace the original shims that were removed. IF you put in new bearings, then you should measure the gap, as described in the workshop manual, and adjust them as needed. In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to installing the caliper, it should turn freely.Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube, especially if you have disc brakes. Clean, check for wear (See article in Jan. issue of AH Mag) and lightly lube the splines of the hub and wheel either with the same grease or anti seize grease. Check this flex brake hose while there, for cracks or bulging. Most info from manual, rest from doing it...Hank -----------------------------------------From: "BJ8Healeys" To: "Healey List" Cc: Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec on installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201130_115638.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 352918 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 24 10:53:00 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 09:53:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings In-Reply-To: <2ecc1c19df768c66f48047eaa610e0d376f88bef@webmail> References: <2ecc1c19df768c66f48047eaa610e0d376f88bef@webmail> Message-ID: It certainly doesn't hurt to re-check end-play, even if 'nothing changed;' the DPO--including yourself--who last did them may not have gotten them exactly correct, and even a slight bit of wear-in could change the depth.? End-play can/should be checked and adjusted dry or with just a light oil on the bearings--grease gets messy and could be contaminated in the process--then clean them thoroughly before packing with grease and reinstalling. I torqued my BJ8's bearings to 'spec' once, and one of the tabbed lock-washers spun and made a noise like a bearing failing (until it wedged itself against the shims). Now, I keep my torque wrench in the drawer and torque to the last slot on the castellated nut that a 1/2-inch breaker bar and my 'armstrong' driver will allow. I don't think there's much risk of overtorquing the nut--what is it, 3/4 inch?--and, like a lot of aftermarket parts the tab on the inside of the washer may not be a precise fit in the slot. I torque the nut until the hole in the axle and a slot on the nut will /just/ fit a cotter, so the cotter will resist any turning of the nut from the get-go; any gap could allow not insignificant release of the nut's load. Bob On 1/24/2021 9:26 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow you > to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter (splitpin).? If > you did not change the bearings (just repacked them) then there is no > need to measure...replace the original shims that were removed. IF you > put in new bearings, then you should measure the gap, as described in > the workshop manual, and adjust them as needed. > > In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to installing > the caliper, it should turn freely. > Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube, especially if you have disc > brakes. Clean, check for wear (See article in Jan. issue of AH Mag) > and lightly lube the splines of the hub and wheel either with the same > grease or anti seize grease. Check this flex brake hose while there, > for cracks or bulging. Most info from manual, rest from doing it...Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "BJ8Healeys" > To: "Healey List" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings > > No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec on > installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. > Lindsay > Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings > > I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to > re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go? > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jan 24 13:19:11 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 12:19:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Yellow Letter CA YOM Plates for sale Message-ID: California car Year of Manufacture "YOM" plates matched pair. Will complete any 60s car project. I registered the car in OR. Good clean plates. 200 USD or best offer. Includes shipping to 48 States Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun Jan 24 18:36:30 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2021 17:36:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear Message-ID: For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using proximity sensors to enable OD on 2nd.gear. Now road tested and works OK. See some notes about the project and also photos embedded in the dox. rg Virus-free. www.avg.com <#m_1923197911117131538_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: OD on 2nd rev3.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1284712 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 02:55:32 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 17:55:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? Message-ID: All - My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): 1 - 135 psi 2 - 135 psi 3 - 60 psi 4 - 60 psi When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 spark plug port. Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? TIA Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Jan 25 04:31:21 2021 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (greylinn at ozemail.com.au) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 21:31:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003501d6f30d$9bae8ac0$d30ba040$@ozemail.com.au> ?exactly what I had with the Ward Spl motor after a tyre kicking non-buyer floored the throttle in overdrive top at about 40kph going uphill! Detonation big time! I put some crack testing penetrating dye in no3. Spun the motor over then checked no.4 with some paper towel ? bingo red dye in no.4 = blown gasket. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane From: Healeys On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Monday, 25 January 2021 7:56 PM To: Healey list Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? All - My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): 1 - 135 psi 2 - 135 psi 3 - 60 psi 4 - 60 psi When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 spark plug port. Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? TIA Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 07:27:33 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 09:27:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head with a DWR AL model. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist wrote: > All - > > My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm > getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): > > 1 - 135 psi > 2 - 135 psi > 3 - 60 psi > 4 - 60 psi > > When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 > spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 > spark plug port. > > Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm > aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? > > TIA > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 07:44:57 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 09:44:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Maybe a bucket of BarsLeaks ??? On Mon., Jan. 25, 2021, 9:28 a.m. Michael Oritt, wrote: > Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from > erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had > it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head > with a DWR AL model. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > >> All - >> >> My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and >> I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): >> >> 1 - 135 psi >> 2 - 135 psi >> 3 - 60 psi >> 4 - 60 psi >> >> When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 >> spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 >> spark plug port. >> >> Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as >> I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? >> >> TIA >> >> Alan >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 07:57:54 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 09:57:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles Message-ID: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> Listeners: I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the rest of the car the past year. After installing the new shock absorbers and the new speedo, I took the car for a ride. With the new shocks and the new Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car down the Tamiami Trail at 50-70 mph, so I decided to push it a little more. However at 4000 plus rpms and about 90 mph, I was not looking so closely at the speedo or tack, the engine back fired, so I let off the gas and returned to normal highway speeds. Engine ran fine all the way home. Suggestions what could cause the backfire at high speeds? Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jan 25 09:20:24 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 17:20:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles In-Reply-To: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> References: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> Some parts like i.e. the distributor or carbs are taken of the engine when it is rebuild and then after having lain on the shelf for months or even years are put back on the engine the way they came off, without resetting or cleaning. In the distributor are the bob weights inside the body that regulate the mechanical advance. These need regular maintenance (mostly forgotten) to prevent them from corrosion and sticking. It is not seldom that these get stuck or do not move freely which might be a cause for backfiring. Also check the plugs and wires. If the car is still on points check the dwell angle and points condition. Also check the timing. Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-1-2021 om 15:57 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com: > > Listeners: > > I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the rest > of the car the past year.? After installing the new shock absorbers > and the new speedo, I took the car for a ride.? With the new shocks > and the new Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car down the > Tamiami Trail at 50-70 mph, so I decided to push it a little more.? > However at 4000 plus rpms and about 90 mph, I was not looking so > closely at the speedo or tack, the engine back fired, so I let off the > gas and returned to normal highway speeds.? Engine ran fine all the > way home. Suggestions what could cause the backfire at high speeds? > > Bob Begani > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Jan 25 09:40:57 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 09:40:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles In-Reply-To: <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> References: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> Message-ID: ..or a momentary loss of power to the fuel pump or delivery pressure.. or a sticking valve.. many possibilities.. On 1/25/2021 9:20 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > Some parts like i.e. the distributor or carbs are taken of the engine > when it is rebuild and then after having lain on the shelf for months > or even years are put back on the engine the way they came off, > without resetting or cleaning. > > In the distributor are the bob weights inside the body that regulate > the mechanical advance. These need regular maintenance (mostly > forgotten) to prevent them from corrosion and sticking. It is not > seldom that these get stuck or do not move freely which might be a > cause for backfiring. Also check the plugs and wires. > > If the car is still on points check the dwell angle and points > condition. Also check the timing. > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > Op 25-1-2021 om 15:57 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com: >> >> Listeners: >> >> I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the >> rest of the car the past year.? After installing the new shock >> absorbers and the new speedo, I took the car for a ride.? With the >> new shocks and the new Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car >> down the Tamiami Trail at 50-70 mph, so I decided to push it a little >> more.? However at 4000 plus rpms and about 90 mph, I was not looking >> so closely at the speedo or tack, the engine back fired, so I let off >> the gas and returned to normal highway speeds. Engine ran fine all >> the way home. Suggestions what could cause the backfire at high speeds? >> >> Bob Begani >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 09:51:02 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 16:51:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles In-Reply-To: References: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> Message-ID: David It is possible that your fuel pump cannot quite keep up with the fuel needed at this top limit. I don't know what pump you have fitted but the square base version or the double version give a higher flow rate. Before making major changes it might be worth checking that the pump has the correct diaphragm travel. On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 16:41, David P wrote: > ..or a momentary loss of power to the fuel pump or delivery pressure.. or > a sticking valve.. many possibilities.. > On 1/25/2021 9:20 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > Some parts like i.e. the distributor or carbs are taken of the engine when > it is rebuild and then after having lain on the shelf for months or even > years are put back on the engine the way they came off, without resetting > or cleaning. > > In the distributor are the bob weights inside the body that regulate the > mechanical advance. These need regular maintenance (mostly forgotten) to > prevent them from corrosion and sticking. It is not seldom that these get > stuck or do not move freely which might be a cause for backfiring. Also > check the plugs and wires. > > If the car is still on points check the dwell angle and points condition. > Also check the timing. > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > Op 25-1-2021 om 15:57 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com: > > Listeners: > > > > I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the rest of > the car the past year. After installing the new shock absorbers and the > new speedo, I took the car for a ride. With the new shocks and the new > Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car down the Tamiami Trail at 50-70 > mph, so I decided to push it a little more. However at 4000 plus rpms and > about 90 mph, I was not looking so closely at the speedo or tack, the > engine back fired, so I let off the gas and returned to normal highway > speeds. Engine ran fine all the way home. Suggestions what could cause the > backfire at high speeds? > > > > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 09:56:27 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 11:56:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles In-Reply-To: References: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> Message-ID: ...or an exhaust leak, or too rich or too lean, or too much advance, etc. You might have to put the car on a chassis dyno in order to replicate and cure the issue. Or stop going so fast, but who wants to do that? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 11:51 AM john harper wrote: > David > > It is possible that your fuel pump cannot quite keep up with the fuel > needed at this top limit. I don't know what pump you have fitted but the > square base version or the double version give a higher flow rate. > > Before making major changes it might be worth checking that the pump has > the correct diaphragm travel. > > On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 16:41, David P wrote: > >> ..or a momentary loss of power to the fuel pump or delivery pressure.. or >> a sticking valve.. many possibilities.. >> On 1/25/2021 9:20 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> >> Some parts like i.e. the distributor or carbs are taken of the engine >> when it is rebuild and then after having lain on the shelf for months or >> even years are put back on the engine the way they came off, without >> resetting or cleaning. >> >> In the distributor are the bob weights inside the body that regulate the >> mechanical advance. These need regular maintenance (mostly forgotten) to >> prevent them from corrosion and sticking. It is not seldom that these get >> stuck or do not move freely which might be a cause for backfiring. Also >> check the plugs and wires. >> >> If the car is still on points check the dwell angle and points condition. >> Also check the timing. >> >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> >> Op 25-1-2021 om 15:57 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com: >> >> Listeners: >> >> >> >> I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the rest of >> the car the past year. After installing the new shock absorbers and the >> new speedo, I took the car for a ride. With the new shocks and the new >> Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car down the Tamiami Trail at 50-70 >> mph, so I decided to push it a little more. However at 4000 plus rpms and >> about 90 mph, I was not looking so closely at the speedo or tack, the >> engine back fired, so I let off the gas and returned to normal highway >> speeds. Engine ran fine all the way home. Suggestions what could cause the >> backfire at high speeds? >> >> >> >> Bob Begani >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Mon Jan 25 13:07:22 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 20:07:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles In-Reply-To: References: <02d201d6f32a$76260ef0$62722cd0$@gmail.com> <4a0450ed-aa8a-6b5c-e493-63a6f4c74c89@chello.nl> , Message-ID: Sounds like too much spark advance. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:56 PM To: john harper Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Backfire in rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles ...or an exhaust leak, or too rich or too lean, or too much advance, etc. You might have to put the car on a chassis dyno in order to replicate and cure the issue. Or stop going so fast, but who wants to do that? Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 11:51 AM john harper > wrote: David It is possible that your fuel pump cannot quite keep up with the fuel needed at this top limit. I don't know what pump you have fitted but the square base version or the double version give a higher flow rate. Before making major changes it might be worth checking that the pump has the correct diaphragm travel. On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 16:41, David P > wrote: ..or a momentary loss of power to the fuel pump or delivery pressure.. or a sticking valve.. many possibilities.. On 1/25/2021 9:20 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Some parts like i.e. the distributor or carbs are taken of the engine when it is rebuild and then after having lain on the shelf for months or even years are put back on the engine the way they came off, without resetting or cleaning. In the distributor are the bob weights inside the body that regulate the mechanical advance. These need regular maintenance (mostly forgotten) to prevent them from corrosion and sticking. It is not seldom that these get stuck or do not move freely which might be a cause for backfiring. Also check the plugs and wires. If the car is still on points check the dwell angle and points condition. Also check the timing. Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-1-2021 om 15:57 schreef rfbegani at gmail.com: Listeners: I have been driving my 67 BJ8 since rebuilding and working on the rest of the car the past year. After installing the new shock absorbers and the new speedo, I took the car for a ride. With the new shocks and the new Shaved tires, she drives like brand new car down the Tamiami Trail at 50-70 mph, so I decided to push it a little more. However at 4000 plus rpms and about 90 mph, I was not looking so closely at the speedo or tack, the engine back fired, so I let off the gas and returned to normal highway speeds. Engine ran fine all the way home. Suggestions what could cause the backfire at high speeds? Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 25 13:16:54 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 12:16:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in 2nd trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks > using proximity sensors to enable OD on 2nd.gear. Now road tested and > works OK. > See some notes about the project and also photos embedded in the dox. > rg > From per at schoerner.se Mon Jan 25 14:13:10 2021 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 22:13:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> References: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> Message-ID: <305E1984-8A15-4176-B0F6-901CD5D6FDEC@schoerner.se> Wouldn?t second with overdrive be the same ratio, or very close to, as third gear? Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 25 jan. 2021 kl. 21:17 skrev Bob Spidell : > > ?Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in 2nd trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). > >> On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: >> For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using proximity sensors to enable OD From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jan 25 14:16:10 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 13:16:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: <305E1984-8A15-4176-B0F6-901CD5D6FDEC@schoerner.se> References: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> <305E1984-8A15-4176-B0F6-901CD5D6FDEC@schoerner.se> Message-ID: There's a comparison table in the PDF. On 1/25/2021 1:13 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Wouldn?t second with overdrive be the same ratio, or very close to, as third gear? > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 25 jan. 2021 kl. 21:17 skrev Bob Spidell : >> >> ?Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in 2nd trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). >> >>> On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: >>> For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using proximity sensors to enable OD From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 14:33:09 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 16:33:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: References: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> <305E1984-8A15-4176-B0F6-901CD5D6FDEC@schoerner.se> Message-ID: I'll be very interested to hear from you how well it actually works in practice. Many years ago I just jumpered the gear lever switch to see what a 2nd overdrive would be like using the 3.9/1 ratio diff. My conclusion was that with the really broad torque curve of the 3000 the acceleration times were not improved and engaging 2nd overdrive at full throttle seemed to be something that the overdrive didn't like too much. M On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:16 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > There's a comparison table in the PDF. > > On 1/25/2021 1:13 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > > Wouldn?t second with overdrive be the same ratio, or very close to, as > third gear? > > > > Per > > > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > >> 25 jan. 2021 kl. 21:17 skrev Bob Spidell : > >> > >> ?Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in > 2nd trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). > >> > >>> On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > >>> For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks > using proximity sensors to enable OD > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 25 14:40:19 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 16:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006301d6f362$add106b0$09731410$@sympatico.ca> I always understood that the OD was locked out of the lower gears as the torque generated in 1st and 2nd was higher than the OD could cope with over a reasonable service period, i.e., made it more prone to breaking and reduced its longevity. Given the cost and increasingly rarity of the bits to rebuild an OD, I would not do it. In any case the purpose of the OD was to drop the revs at cruising speeds (i.e. in 3rd and 4th) to improve gas mileage and reduce revs on the motor, thus increasing engine longevity, One was not meant to go up through all six ratios when accelerating, Thus the throttle switch to drop it out of OD when overtaking. IMHO, I?d respectfully suggest if one were trying to knock a few tenths of the 0-60 time, fit a modern 5 speed box from something. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: January 24, 2021 8:37 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using proximity sensors to enable OD on 2nd.gear. Now road tested and works OK. See some notes about the project and also photos embedded in the dox. rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Jan 25 15:00:26 2021 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 14:00:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> References: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7EB645701545437B84255441F60182C7@LeonardPCPC> I got tired of the large gap between 2nd and 3rd gear years ago. My solution was to add one switch to the gearbox cover opposite the overdrive switch. I bypassed the OD switch which allowed engagement of 1st, 2nd, and incidentally, reverse. Being that engaging reverse could be a disastrous no-no, I installed the other switch, a normally closed switch, to bypass my bypass. Since the shifting mechanism offers the same type of contact surface on that side as is located on the OD switch side, it could be adjusted to prevent the overdrive from engaging when shifted into reverse. See attached photos (taken in 2007) (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031. still 221,444 darn it ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 12:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear > Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in 2nd > trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). > > On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: >> For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using >> proximity sensors to enable OD on 2nd.gear. Now road tested and works OK. >> See some notes about the project and also photos embedded in the dox. >> rg >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Modifications 004.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 321068 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Modifications 005.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 336637 bytes Desc: not available URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Jan 25 15:34:54 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 17:34:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear In-Reply-To: <7EB645701545437B84255441F60182C7@LeonardPCPC> References: <25d73b68-a16d-2735-dca1-235263f0cdec@comcast.net> <7EB645701545437B84255441F60182C7@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: I?ve always wondered why first and second were so close (BJ8). I know, most of us end up using second to start, but that?s sometimes a bit much on a hill, and you?ve got to get out of first quickly, or your change feels like you?ve stayed in the same gear?I guess what was on the parts shelf was limited! I, too, have tried overdrive on second gear, and I agree with Michael- the overdrive didn?t seem to like it. Stephen (BJ8) > On Jan 25, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: > > > I got tired of the large gap between 2nd and 3rd gear years ago. My solution was to add one switch to the gearbox cover opposite the overdrive switch. I bypassed the OD switch which allowed engagement of 1st, 2nd, and incidentally, reverse. Being that engaging reverse could be a disastrous no-no, I installed the other switch, a normally closed switch, to bypass my bypass. Since the shifting mechanism offers the same type of contact surface on that side as is located on the OD switch side, it could be adjusted to prevent the overdrive from engaging when shifted into reverse. > > See attached photos (taken in 2007) > > (The Other) Len > Fairfield, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031. > still 221,444 darn it > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 12:16 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD in 2nd gear > > >> Nice engineering! 2nd/OD would be great; I'm always over-revving in 2nd trying to get 'off the line' (note I have a 3.54 rear end). >> >> On 1/24/2021 5:36 PM, Roger Grace wrote: >>> For interest, see enclosed my Winter project to install interlocks using proximity sensors to enable OD on 2nd.gear. Now road tested and works OK. >>> See some notes about the project and also photos embedded in the dox. >>> rg >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Mon Jan 25 16:33:16 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 12:33:16 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] fan In-Reply-To: References: <20210122183931.39016.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <001201d6f372$76a75f30$63f61d90$@xtra.co.nz> The early 3000s were red. They changed to yellow in 1960 but I don't recall the month. I know some of you 'concours' folk will know the approximate change-over date. Mark Ardmore, NZ -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, 23 January 2021 7:57 a.m. To: 'healeymanjim' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fan The four bladed metal fan on my BT7 manufactured in Nov 1960 was painted yellow. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 10:40 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] fan was the original fan on a BT7 painted yellow? got one that is black. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gvernau at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 16:43:18 2021 From: gvernau at gmail.com (George Vernau Sr) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 17:43:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave bleeding Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who sent me ideas and suggestions. Since I decided to rebuild both the clutch slave and master it turned out that removing and reinstalling the master cylinder was actually the worst part. I didn't want to remove the carbs so there isn't much room but it can be done. Contorting my 75 year old body in the footwell to disconnect and attach the pushrod was also a real challenge. In the end I just bled the slave initially by letting it hang from the hose, then putting a bleed hose on the bleeder screw and holding it in position without bolts for a few pumps, closing the bleeder screw while keeping it in its approximate final position, and then wrestling the bolts and actuator in place. It seemed much easier when I first did it about 30 years ago. The real answer is to install a line with a remote bleeder but I didn;t want to take the time- I just hope I won't be doing it again. One added note: the last time I did this maybe 11 years ago I changed the system to DOT5 Silicone fluid and I'm really glad I did. Everything was nice and clean and new with no corrosion after 11 years. However, DOT5 is getting hard to find. Anyway it worked just fine and I had a nice test drive to celebrate, it's 70 degrees here in Houston today. I've owned this car for 53 years and it still makes me happy every time I drive it. Thanks again for the help! George Vernau 1967 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From satkinson1974 at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 16:47:15 2021 From: satkinson1974 at gmail.com (Simon Atkinson) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 18:47:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] fan In-Reply-To: <001201d6f372$76a75f30$63f61d90$@xtra.co.nz> References: <001201d6f372$76a75f30$63f61d90$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <43E245A1-B112-4FCD-9954-8EEB8602046D@gmail.com> I have early 59. It was painted black but scratching off the pain showed red under when we did the resto. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 25, 2021, at 6:36 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote: > > ? > > The early 3000s were red. They changed to yellow in 1960 but I don?t recall the month. I know some of you ?concours? folk will know the approximate change-over date. > > Mark > Ardmore, NZ > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > Sent: Saturday, 23 January 2021 7:57 a.m. > To: 'healeymanjim' ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fan > > The four bladed metal fan on my BT7 manufactured in Nov 1960 was painted yellow. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim > Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 10:40 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] fan > > was the original fan on a BT7 painted yellow? got one that is black. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson1974 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Jan 25 17:08:44 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 19:08:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] fan In-Reply-To: <001201d6f372$76a75f30$63f61d90$@xtra.co.nz> References: <20210122183931.39016.qmail@server278.com> <001201d6f372$76a75f30$63f61d90$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: The out-of-date January 2018 concours guidelines states that at least up to September 1960 the fans were red. This year's version of the standards can be ordered from: https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org/ Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/25/21 6:33 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote: > > The early 3000s were red.? They changed to yellow in 1960 but I don?t > recall the month.? I know some of you ?concours? folk will know the > approximate change-over date. > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > Sent: Saturday, 23 January 2021 7:57 a.m. > To: 'healeymanjim' ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] fan > > The four bladed metal fan on my BT7 manufactured in Nov 1960 was > painted yellow. > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > healeymanjim > > Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 10:40 AM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] fan > > was the original fan on a BT7 painted yellow?? got one that is black. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 19:53:18 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 10:53:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great suggestion Michael ??? On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:45 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Maybe a bucket of BarsLeaks ??? > > On Mon., Jan. 25, 2021, 9:28 a.m. Michael Oritt, > wrote: > >> Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from >> erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had >> it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head >> with a DWR AL model. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist >> wrote: >> >>> All - >>> >>> My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and >>> I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): >>> >>> 1 - 135 psi >>> 2 - 135 psi >>> 3 - 60 psi >>> 4 - 60 psi >>> >>> When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through >>> #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the >>> #3 spark plug port. >>> >>> Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as >>> I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? >>> >>> TIA >>> >>> Alan >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Jan 25 19:54:29 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 10:54:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Michael - Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head gasket because the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have a low spot there. The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. Best, Alan On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from > erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had > it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head > with a DWR AL model. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > >> All - >> >> My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and >> I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): >> >> 1 - 135 psi >> 2 - 135 psi >> 3 - 60 psi >> 4 - 60 psi >> >> When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 >> spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 >> spark plug port. >> >> Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as >> I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? >> >> TIA >> >> Alan >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Jan 25 20:04:14 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 03:04:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? Message-ID: <9c06ed3cbf4c5d68a88b5d30038ccafb76ef9fdd@webmail> I used this on all the 100 heads that I assembled with a copper gasket and so far no problems from any of them. It goes on very nicely and, if the head and block is in good condition, should do the job. Hank SKU 48-52355-1ALT #: 64-52355 PERMATEX COPPER SPRAY-A-GASKET HEAD GASKET SEALANT - 9 OZ. SPRAY CAN 0% of1000 Reviews Add Your Review [1]Low Price Guarantee [2]$14.99each -----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist" To: "Michael Oritt" Cc: "Healey list" Sent: Monday January 25 2021 6:55:32PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? Hi Michael - Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head gasket because the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have a low spot there. The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. Best, Alan On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt wrote: Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head with a DWR AL model. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist wrote: All - My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): 1 - 135 psi 2 - 135 psi 3 - 60 psi 4 - 60 psi When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 spark plug port. Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? TIA Alan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] [7]http://autox.team.net/archive [8] Healeys at autox.team.net [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] Unsubscribe/Manage: [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com [12] Links: ------ [1] https://www.macsautoparts.com/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-head-gasket-sealant-9-oz-spray-can-48-52355-1.html#review-form [2] https://www.macsautoparts.com/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-head-gasket-sealant-9-oz-spray-can-48-52355-1.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&cmpid=339371181&agid=1240249206685998&tgtid=pla-4581115206957046&prdid=48-52355-1&scid=scbplp48-52355-1&sc_intid=48-52355-1&utm_campaign=sc_bingshopping_remnant&msclkid=e1b0bd9f33021cf26cf7dd90b671edae# [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Jan 26 03:57:34 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 10:57:34 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Message-ID: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 TRIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH 100/6 | eBay Hi, I saw the above item on eBay. I've always wanted those manifolds to go with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless the price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren't there fakes out there? Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) carbs.. But someone might be interested? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 26 04:30:31 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 12:30:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <83502063-16d6-7eac-b9b4-ac95e0367d84@chello.nl> Very reasonably priced I would say. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-1-2021 om 11:57 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > > AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 TRIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH > 100/6 | eBay > > > Hi, > > I saw the above item on eBay. I?ve always wanted those manifolds to go > with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless > the price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren?t > there fakes out there? > > Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) > carbs?. > > But someone might be interested? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jan 26 04:43:18 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 06:43:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: <9c06ed3cbf4c5d68a88b5d30038ccafb76ef9fdd@webmail> References: <9c06ed3cbf4c5d68a88b5d30038ccafb76ef9fdd@webmail> Message-ID: Needless to say, if one is using the DWR AL head the steel head gasket should also be installed as per their instructions. I did this to my engine in 2003 or 2004 and have never had to retorque the head. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:04 PM wrote: > I used this on all the 100 heads that I assembled with a copper gasket and > so far no problems from any of them. It goes on very nicely and, if the > head and block is in good condition, should do the job. Hank > > SKU > 48-52355-1 > ALT #: > 64-52355 > Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Head Gasket Sealant - 9 Oz. Spray Can > 0% of100 > 0 Reviews Add Your Review > > Low Price Guarantee > > $14.99each > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Alan Seigrist" > To: "Michael Oritt" > Cc: "Healey list" > Sent: Monday January 25 2021 6:55:32PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? > > Hi Michael - > > Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head gasket because > the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have a low spot > there. The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. > > Best, > > Alan > > > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt > wrote: > >> Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from >> erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had >> it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head >> with a DWR AL model. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist >> wrote: >> >>> All - >>> >>> My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and >>> I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): >>> >>> 1 - 135 psi >>> 2 - 135 psi >>> 3 - 60 psi >>> 4 - 60 psi >>> >>> When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through >>> #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the >>> #3 spark plug port. >>> >>> Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as >>> I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? >>> >>> TIA >>> >>> Alan >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net >>> http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: >>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Jan 26 06:53:11 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 13:53:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <77cadce9-b6c1-2d47-757f-a62af6ec569b@summaventures.com> I am surprised that it says 100/6. As far as I am aware only one works 100/6 was fitted with triple carbs and that was PMO 203 after its works rallying career, when Bobby Parkes bought it from BMC in it in 1960. They were 2" HD8 SUs. He told me that he didn't change the mecahical spec. Since that car is widely believed to have been crashed and written off (and there is still room for a little bit of doubt about that) it would either mean a near-miracle that the car had survived and been fouond or that just the carbs and manifold had. Checking against a works build-list that I have for UJB 144 at Sebring in 1960 and that again used triple HD8s, not HD6s. The spec is Special Engine 290. Interesting :-) Peter On 26/01/2021 10:57, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 TRIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH > 100/6 | eBay > > > ? > > Hi, > > I saw the above item on eBay. I?ve always wanted those manifolds to go > with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless the > price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren?t there > fakes out there? > > Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) carbs?. > > But someone might be interested? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Jan 26 09:11:17 2021 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 08:11:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <77cadce9-b6c1-2d47-757f-a62af6ec569b@summaventures.com> References: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <77cadce9-b6c1-2d47-757f-a62af6ec569b@summaventures.com> Message-ID: <047401d6f3fd$e17fe8a0$a47fb9e0$@roadrunner.com> "Cooperman" in the UK posted on 3/8/2017 in British Car Forum that he had acquired these; as they appear in the eBay pictures they look to be untouched since the BCF pictures. Interesting posts on this thread: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108945-Ruddspeed-carbs Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 5:53 AM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed I am surprised that it says 100/6. As far as I am aware only one works 100/6 was fitted with triple carbs and that was PMO 203 after its works rallying career, when Bobby Parkes bought it from BMC in it in 1960. They were 2" HD8 SUs. He told me that he didn't change the mecahical spec. Since that car is widely believed to have been crashed and written off (and there is still room for a little bit of doubt about that) it would either mean a near-miracle that the car had survived and been fouond or that just the carbs and manifold had. Checking against a works build-list that I have for UJB 144 at Sebring in 1960 and that again used triple HD8s, not HD6s. The spec is Special Engine 290. Interesting :-) Peter On 26/01/2021 10:57, sim/on.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 T/RIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH > 100/6 | eBay > -1-3-4-SU-HD6-BMC-WORKS-AH-100-6/174606816240> > > ? > > Hi, > > I saw the above item on eBay. I?ve always wanted those manifolds to go > with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless > the price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren?t > there fakes out there? > > Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) carbs . > > But someone might be interested? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From svilanspeter at xplornet.ca Tue Jan 26 09:24:31 2021 From: svilanspeter at xplornet.ca (svilanspeter at xplornet.ca) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 11:24:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed Message-ID: This triple manifold is for RHD cars. The LHD version looked a bit less flashy, without fins and with a cast aluminum balance pipe bolted on top. I bought a '59 100-Six rolling chassis for parts in the early nineties. On arriving with my trailer I saw the engine, and had a silent OMG! moment. It had a Ruddspeed HD-6 setup. The seller was not a Healey man and said "These things had triples on them didn't they ?" I said "Yes they did" trying to keep a straight face and my head from exploding. Best regards, Peter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: hansvdkerkof05.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 152618 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Jan 26 11:09:10 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 18:09:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to have to resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish than copper. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 2:54 AM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? Hi Michael - Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head gasket because the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have a low spot there. The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. Best, Alan On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt > wrote: Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head with a DWR AL model. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: All - My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): 1 - 135 psi 2 - 135 psi 3 - 60 psi 4 - 60 psi When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 spark plug port. Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? TIA Alan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jan 26 11:26:26 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 11:26:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <956b0ffd-67b0-066b-958b-76322a7f5a82@porterscustom.com> I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual 0.0025 rings to provide a little more squish around each bore. Dave On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to have to > resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish than copper. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Alan > Seigrist > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2021 2:54 AM > *To:* Michael Oritt > *Cc:* Healey list > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? > Hi Michael - > > Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head?gasket > because the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have > a low spot there.? The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. > > Best, > > Alan > > > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt > > wrote: > > Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge.? My original head > suffered from erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the > gasket to blow.? I had it built up enough to work for a while?but > eventually replaced the head with a DWR AL model. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist > > wrote: > > All - > > My A90 just started running weird.? So I took a compression > tester and I'm getting (note the A90 is lower compression than > the 100): > > 1 - 135 psi > 2 - 135 psi > 3 - 60 psi > 4 - 60 psi > > When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back > through #4 spark plug port.? Then when I put it on #4 I get > blow back through the #3 spark plug port. > > Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct?? > as far as I'm aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, > correct? > > TIA > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 26 11:27:27 2021 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 13:27:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs References: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD.ref@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD@yahoo.com> Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From rct2bnc at aol.com Tue Jan 26 11:41:30 2021 From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 11:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I buy on Amazon for $5 - 8 eachBen Cohen?BN1, BN7 & BJ8Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Don via Healeys Date: 1/26/21 11:28 AM (GMT-07:00) To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All???? I?ve been using NGK spark plugs ,???? BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. ????? What else is everyone using with success? ??????? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Tue Jan 26 11:41:46 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 10:41:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD@yahoo.com> References: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD.ref@yahoo.com> <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD@yahoo.com> Message-ID: NGK website says: tem has been discontinued. This product may be used as a replacement: NGK 7131 BPR6ES Nickel Spark Plug That's all I know. -Roland On Tue, 26 Jan 2021 13:27:27 -0500, you wrote: > >Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Jan 26 14:24:52 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:24:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Message-ID: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Jan 26 14:27:35 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:27:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Message-ID: <433c887cf8c1fe91d90a004c69ce8bf344f7b16e@webmail> Here are some replacements for Champion UN12Y now updated to some of the following: * Champion UN12Y replacement spark plugs * Autolite 4265 [1] * Autolite 65 [2] * Autolite XS65 [3] * Autolite XST4265 [4] * Bosch 0241229715 [5] * Bosch 0242229555 [6] * Bosch 0242229656 [7] * Bosch W8DC [8] * Bosch WR8DC+ [9] * Bosch WR8DP [10] * Champion N12YC [11] * Champion OE015 [12] * Champion OE015T10 [13] * NGK 6511 [14] * NGK BP5ES [15] * NGK stk 6511 [16] -----------------------------------------From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AUTOLITE/4265 [2] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AUTOLITE/65 [3] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AUTOLITE/XS65 [4] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AUTOLITE/XST4265 [5] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/0241229715 [6] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/0242229555 [7] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/0242229656 [8] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/W8DC [9] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/WR8DC%252B [10] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/WR8DP [11] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/N12YC [12] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/OE015 [13] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/OE015T10 [14] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/6511 [15] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/BP5ES [16] https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_STK/6511 [17] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 26 15:20:30 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 22:20:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <433c887cf8c1fe91d90a004c69ce8bf344f7b16e@webmail> References: <433c887cf8c1fe91d90a004c69ce8bf344f7b16e@webmail> Message-ID: <305397454.432687.1611699630961@mail.yahoo.com> They are still around.? Stock up while you can.Mike MacLean NGK BP6ES Spark Plug | | | | $8.18 | | | | | | | NGK BP6ES Spark Plug Non Resistor Spark Plug | | | NGK 7333 BP6ES Standard Nickel Plug | | | | | | | | | | | NGK 7333 BP6ES Standard Nickel Plug Buy NGK 7333 BP6ES Standard Nickel Plug - NGK 7333 online from NAPA Auto Parts Stores. Get deals on automotive p... | | | BP6ES | | | | | | | | | | | BP6ES NGK Standard Spark Plugs : BP6ES ## Minimum Order Quantity in 4 plugs ## | | | NGK BP6ES Spark Plug | eBay | | | | | | | | | | | NGK BP6ES Spark Plug | eBay Find great deals on eBay for NGK BP6ES Spark Plug. Shop with confidence. | | | On Tuesday, January 26, 2021, 1:28:02 PM PST, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Here are some replacements for Champion UN12Y now updated to some of the following: - Champion UN12Y replacement spark plugs - Autolite 4265 - Autolite 65 - Autolite XS65 - Autolite XST4265 - Bosch 0241229715 - Bosch 0242229555 - Bosch 0242229656 - Bosch W8DC - Bosch WR8DC+ - Bosch WR8DP - Champion N12YC - Champion OE015 - Champion OE015T10 - NGK 6511 - NGK BP5ES - NGK stk 6511 ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 withelectronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I wastold they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Jan 26 15:47:53 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 14:47:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] test Message-ID: I got an "undeliverable" on? a submission. Maybe too big an attachment.? Is that a cause?? Wasn't important. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Jan 26 16:03:19 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:03:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD.ref@yahoo.com> <90673C71-CA00-46F2-BED5-B6474766D8BD@yahoo.com>, Message-ID: There has been much discussion about counterfeit NKG plugs. I'm not sure why anyone would bother with fakes but "let the buyer beware". ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 10:41 AM To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs NGK website says: tem has been discontinued. This product may be used as a replacement: NGK 7131 BPR6ES Nickel Spark Plug That's all I know. -Roland On Tue, 26 Jan 2021 13:27:27 -0500, you wrote: > >Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Jan 26 16:08:06 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 15:08:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Sorta Healey stuff In-Reply-To: <4d91e79d-3c45-3f73-fa9f-47348bc2e5fe@comcast.net> References: <4d91e79d-3c45-3f73-fa9f-47348bc2e5fe@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8f086833-7bc7-4499-32d4-4e42c79af26d@comcast.net> Not sure where this came from, but an interesting presentation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZCeuTzc850 Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wjc3 at citlink.net Tue Jan 26 16:21:37 2021 From: wjc3 at citlink.net (wjc3 at citlink.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:21:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sorta Healey stuff In-Reply-To: <8f086833-7bc7-4499-32d4-4e42c79af26d@comcast.net> References: <4d91e79d-3c45-3f73-fa9f-47348bc2e5fe@comcast.net> <8f086833-7bc7-4499-32d4-4e42c79af26d@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1967507477.463474.1611703297252@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks that was most interesting. john On Tuesday, January 26, 2021, 06:13:16 PM EST, Mike Sinclair wrote: Not sure where this came from, but an interesting presentation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZCeuTzc850 Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wjc3 at citlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 26 19:35:13 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:35:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: <956b0ffd-67b0-066b-958b-76322a7f5a82@porterscustom.com> References: <956b0ffd-67b0-066b-958b-76322a7f5a82@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: Hi David - This is very interesting. Let me see what it looks like when I get the head off, and I might ask for your guy's contacts if that's what I determine is the problem. Best, Alan On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:27 AM David P wrote: > I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual 0.0025 > rings to provide a little more squish around each bore. Dave > On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to have to > resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish than copper. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys > on behalf of Alan Seigrist > > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2021 2:54 AM > *To:* Michael Oritt > *Cc:* Healey list > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? > > Hi Michael - > > Sounds to me the smart thing to do is put in a steel head gasket because > the head was rebuilt not that many miles ago, so I might have a low spot > there. The head is torqued correctly so that's not it. > > Best, > > Alan > > > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:27 PM Michael Oritt > wrote: > > Probably blown gasket at the 3-4 bridge. My original head suffered from > erosion of the metal at the 1-2 bridge, allowing the gasket to blow. I had > it built up enough to work for a while but eventually replaced the head > with a DWR AL model. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:55 AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > All - > > My A90 just started running weird. So I took a compression tester and I'm > getting (note the A90 is lower compression than the 100): > > 1 - 135 psi > 2 - 135 psi > 3 - 60 psi > 4 - 60 psi > > When I put the compression tester on number 3, I get blow back through #4 > spark plug port. Then when I put it on #4 I get blow back through the #3 > spark plug port. > > Seems to me it's just a blown head gasket.... am I correct? as far as I'm > aware, these heads usually crack between 2 & 3, correct? > > TIA > > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 26 20:07:22 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 19:07:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <956b0ffd-67b0-066b-958b-76322a7f5a82@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: <0d690cc5-43ef-25d3-202e-44bf038dfffd@comcast.net> On the copper gaskets I've seen--not terribly many--the rings are integral to the gasket; are we saying they can be swapped? bs On 1/26/2021 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hi David - > > This is very interesting.? Let me see what it looks like when I get > the head off, and I might ask for your guy's contacts if that's what I > determine is the problem. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:27 AM David P > wrote: > > I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual > 0.0025 rings to provide a little more squish around each bore.? Dave > > On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to >> have to resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish >> than copper. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> BN1 #554 >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Jan 26 21:22:44 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:22:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? Message-ID: No, in addition to the head gasket. I used a tiny drop of super glue to locate them when assembling. On the deck side. On January 26, 2021, at 8:08 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: On the copper gaskets I've seen--not terribly many--the rings are integral to the gasket; are we saying they can be swapped? bs On 1/26/2021 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Hi David - This is very interesting.? Let me see what it looks like when I get the head off, and I might ask for your guy's contacts if that's what I determine is the problem. Best, Alan On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:27 AM David P wrote: I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual 0.0025 rings to provide a little more squish around each bore.? Dave On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to have to resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish than copper. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 26 22:13:50 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:13:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ah ... I thought 0.0025" was a bit thin ;) On 1/26/2021 8:22 PM, David Porter wrote: > > No, in addition to the head gasket. I used a tiny drop of super glue > to locate them when assembling. On the deck side. > > > > On January 26, 2021, at 8:08 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > On the copper gaskets I've seen--not terribly many--the rings are > integral to the gasket; are we saying they can be swapped? > > bs > > On 1/26/2021 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Hi David - >> >> This is very interesting.? Let me see what it looks like when I get >> the head off, and I might ask for your guy's contacts if that's what >> I determine is the problem. >> >> Best, >> >> Alan >> >> On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:27 AM David P > > wrote: >> >> I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual >> 0.0025 rings to provide a little more squish around each bore.? Dave >> >> On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to >>> have to resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish >>> than copper. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 26 22:15:53 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 21:15:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] 5 ways cursing can be good for you - CNN Message-ID: <351c597b-f2fe-680f-11ca-a9b0ea2d1bda@comcast.net> I knew it!? I wonder if 'sworking' works, too? https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/26/health/swearing-benefits-wellness/index.html From pdzwig at summaventures.com Wed Jan 27 02:58:03 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 09:58:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <000001d6f417$ea9dbec0$bfd93c40$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <77cadce9-b6c1-2d47-757f-a62af6ec569b@summaventures.com> <000001d6f417$ea9dbec0$bfd93c40$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <40fd72f9-52de-a943-a19d-b8421f22a93a@summaventures.com> Absolutely they were and they were widely use. Just not by the works. I asked the buyer which works car, and so far I haven't had a reply... Peter On 26/01/2021 19:17, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > Hi, > I think the inlets were sold in some quantities. And I wouldn't necessarily > associate them with the BMC Works dept. > But, I'm only guessing. I'm not a great Healey historian. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Peter Dzwig > Sent: 26 January 2021 13:53 > To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed > > I am surprised that it says 100/6. As far as I am aware only one works > 100/6 was fitted with triple carbs and that was PMO 203 after its works > rallying career, when Bobby Parkes bought it from BMC in it in 1960. > They were 2" HD8 SUs. He told me that he didn't change the mecahical spec. > Since that car is widely believed to have been crashed and written off (and > there is still room for a little bit of doubt about that) it would either > mean a near-miracle that the car had survived and been fouond or that just > the carbs and manifold had. > > Checking against a works build-list that I have for UJB 144 at Sebring in > 1960 and that again used triple HD8s, not HD6s. The spec is Special Engine > 290. > > Interesting :-) > > Peter > > On 26/01/2021 10:57, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: >> AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 TRIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH >> 100/6 | eBay >> > -1-3-4-SU-HD6-BMC-WORKS-AH-100-6/174606816240> >> >> ? >> >> Hi, >> >> I saw the above item on eBay. I?ve always wanted those manifolds to go >> with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless >> the price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren?t >> there fakes out there? >> >> Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) > carbs?. >> >> But someone might be interested? >> >> Simon >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >> > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Jan 27 05:48:51 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 07:48:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> Message-ID: <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Wed Jan 27 08:28:16 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 15:28:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance.? ? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs #yiv9839230587 #yiv9839230587 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9839230587 #yiv9839230587 p.yiv9839230587MsoNormal, #yiv9839230587 li.yiv9839230587MsoNormal, #yiv9839230587 div.yiv9839230587MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9839230587 a:link, #yiv9839230587 span.yiv9839230587MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9839230587 span.yiv9839230587EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9839230587 .yiv9839230587MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv9839230587 div.yiv9839230587WordSection1 {}#yiv9839230587 I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. ?Mirek ?From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs ?Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. ?I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank-----------------------------------------From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 08:46:30 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 07:46:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nope. The Champion plug that seems to be the most commonly available off-the-shelf is RN12YC (I may have jumbled the letters). This for a BJ8; my BN2 uses a different one, but I don't recall offhand (N9?). The 'R' is for resistor, which I believe is about 15KOhms, the 'C' is for copper (none of that fancy iridium or platinum stuff for an old Brit car).? I run them with 7mm stranded wire secondaries, with resistor plug caps--again, about 15KOhms--and have never had an issue, and I have a Pertronix points sets on both my Healeys. They're good, with one re-gap, for over 25K miles but, usually, if I go to the trouble to pull them I put new ones in. Years ago I bought a bunch on sale for about $1/ea. at Pep Boys. I've mentioned before that Champion brand is the go-to in light aircraft piston engines; they have standard and 'fine-wire' electrodes for engines that are known for lead fouling. Bob On 1/27/2021 7:28 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever > had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the > incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does > failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to > the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. > Mirek > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of > *gradea1 at charter.net > *Sent:* January 26, 2021 4:25 PM > *To:* 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > *Cc:* 'healey list' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. > Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the > '70s. > I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and > never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about > their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe there > is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Don via Healeys" > To: "healey list" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM > Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > > Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic > ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they > can?t get them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net > /> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Jan 27 08:50:31 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 10:50:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <015701d6f4c4$2496d380$6dc47a80$@sympatico.ca> Great question From: warthodson at aol.com Sent: January 27, 2021 10:28 AM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net ; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > Cc: 'healey list' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 09:00:26 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 08:00:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not with Healey plugs but, as an aside, Ford had a massive problem a few years ago (I should say, some Ford owners, namely those with 4.6L 'Modular' engines, had a problem). These are SOHC engines, and their plugs were very long and skinny, and buried deep in the heads. The gap between the chamber end of the plug and the head was very narrow, and prone to 'carboning-up;' the problem was the plugs were made in two pieces and, when someone tried to remove the plugs--usually at 100K miles or so--the plug would pull apart, leaving the bottom end stuck in the head (much fun ensued). Since I had a 4.6L in my '08 Mustang I went, almost in a panic, to check my car's plugs but, fortunately, it had a later version of the heads that didn't bury the plugs so bad, and used a stronger, one-piece plug. I changed the plugs at about 90K miles and it was a piece of cake. On 1/27/2021 7:46 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Nope. > > The Champion plug that seems to be the most commonly available > off-the-shelf is RN12YC (I may have jumbled the letters). This for a > BJ8; my BN2 uses a different one, but I don't recall offhand (N9?). > The 'R' is for resistor, which I believe is about 15KOhms, the 'C' is > for copper (none of that fancy iridium or platinum stuff for an old > Brit car).? I run them with 7mm stranded wire secondaries, with > resistor plug caps--again, about 15KOhms--and have never had an issue, > and I have a Pertronix points sets on both my Healeys. They're good, > with one re-gap, for over 25K miles but, usually, if I go to the > trouble to pull them I put new ones in. Years ago I bought a bunch on > sale for about $1/ea. at Pep Boys. > > I've mentioned before that Champion brand is the go-to in light > aircraft piston engines; they have standard and 'fine-wire' electrodes > for engines that are known for lead fouling. > > Bob > > > On 1/27/2021 7:28 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >> I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list >> ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the >> incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does >> failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed >> to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. >> Gary Hodson >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca >> To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >> Cc: 'healey list' >> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >> >> I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. >> Mirek >> *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of >> *gradea1 at charter.net >> *Sent:* January 26, 2021 4:25 PM >> *To:* 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' >> *Cc:* 'healey list' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >> Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. >> Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in >> the '70s. >> I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and >> never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about >> their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe there >> is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank >> ----------------------------------------- >> From: "Don via Healeys" >> To: "healey list" >> Cc: >> Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM >> Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >> >> >> Good Afternoon All >> I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with >> electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was >> told they can?t get them anymore. >> What else is everyone using with success? >> Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Jan 27 09:03:57 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 16:03:57 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002001d6f4c6$058d5a20$10a80e60$@alexarevel.plus.com> Bit of an open-ended question. I keep an eye on my plugs. (Through the cracks in the block!) And, over the years, I?d say that NGKs last longer than Champions. That?s only an impression because a) I change plugs, like oil and filter, sooner rather than later and b) I know that, now I?ve switched to NGK, I?m bound to think better of them now than I did of Champions before. If you see what I mean???????? I?ve never had plugs let me down as a certainty. I have had situations where I?ve seen big improvements from swapping plugs, leads, points etcetc. Sometimes, even a coil as well if it fell under any degree of suspicion. A sort of electrical spring-clean. But a purely plug-related issue? No. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys Sent: 27 January 2021 15:28 To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net ; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > Cc: 'healey list' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 27 09:08:18 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 11:08:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: When competing in sprints my dad's EH Holden with the correct Champion and AC plugs we were plagued with a high RPM misfire, a really bad misfire, much like fuel starvation, over about 5000 RPM. We had tried everything, the AC plugs, filters, different fuels, fuel line insulation but the problem persisted. A long time club member came by and suggested changing to NGK plugs and lent us a USED set. We did and that engine never misfired again, absolutely transformed the performance. I've never used anything but NGK plugs since. M On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 10:32 AM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had > an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect > spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change > plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the > person responsible for maintenance. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. > > Mirek > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of * > gradea1 at charter.net > *Sent:* January 26, 2021 4:25 PM > *To:* 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > *Cc:* 'healey list' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. > Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. > > I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and > never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their > manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as > much demand on my plugs. Hank > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Don via Healeys" > To: "healey list" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM > Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > > Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic > ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get > them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net > /> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed Jan 27 09:27:52 2021 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 11:27:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Do these lines look familar? Message-ID: Nice looking car: https://uncrate.com/1954-swallow-doretti-roadster/ Kinda looks familar, doesn't it? - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 27 09:29:20 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 11:29:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Guidelines Request. Message-ID: Does anyone have a copy of the last edition of the BJ8 Parts Book from which they could send me a scan of the page showing the rear springs. I need both the pictures and the text. I have one dated 1969 but understand that there may have been a later edition. Thanks. M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jan 27 09:36:40 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 11:36:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1b7d5b12-f956-0c92-c403-6ac1334b4b6a@earthlink.net> Bought a well used '64 Ford pickup almost 40 years ago.? Y block, oil bath air filter, (2) 20 gal saddle tanks ...? Decided to do a tune-up.? Pulled a plug out to see what was fitted, went to the auto parts store and bought the replacements.? Back in the garage, I removed the other seven plugs.? On the first plug, the nut broke off leaving the threaded section of the plug in the head.? Back to the store for head gaskets and anti-freeze. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/27/21 11:00 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Not with Healey plugs but, as an aside, Ford had a massive problem a > few years ago (I should say, some Ford owners, namely those with 4.6L > 'Modular' engines, had a problem). These are SOHC engines, and their > plugs were very long and skinny, and buried deep in the heads. The gap > between the chamber end of the plug and the head was very narrow, and > prone to 'carboning-up;' the problem was the plugs were made in two > pieces and, when someone tried to remove the plugs--usually at 100K > miles or so--the plug would pull apart, leaving the bottom end stuck > in the head (much fun ensued). Since I had a 4.6L in my '08 Mustang I > went, almost in a panic, to check my car's plugs but, fortunately, it > had a later version of the heads that didn't bury the plugs so bad, > and used a stronger, one-piece plug. I changed the plugs at about 90K > miles and it was a piece of cake. > > On 1/27/2021 7:46 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Nope. >> >> The Champion plug that seems to be the most commonly available >> off-the-shelf is RN12YC (I may have jumbled the letters). This for a >> BJ8; my BN2 uses a different one, but I don't recall offhand (N9?). >> The 'R' is for resistor, which I believe is about 15KOhms, the 'C' is >> for copper (none of that fancy iridium or platinum stuff for an old >> Brit car).? I run them with 7mm stranded wire secondaries, with >> resistor plug caps--again, about 15KOhms--and have never had an >> issue, and I have a Pertronix points sets on both my Healeys. They're >> good, with one re-gap, for over 25K miles but, usually, if I go to >> the trouble to pull them I put new ones in. Years ago I bought a >> bunch on sale for about $1/ea. at Pep Boys. >> >> I've mentioned before that Champion brand is the go-to in light >> aircraft piston engines; they have standard and 'fine-wire' >> electrodes for engines that are known for lead fouling. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 1/27/2021 7:28 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >>> I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list >>> ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using >>> the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor >>> does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are >>> attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. >>> Gary Hodson >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca >>> To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >>> Cc: 'healey list' >>> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >>> >>> I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. >>> Mirek >>> *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of >>> *gradea1 at charter.net >>> *Sent:* January 26, 2021 4:25 PM >>> *To:* 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' >>> *Cc:* 'healey list' >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >>> Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. >>> Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in >>> the '70s. >>> I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, >>> and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press >>> about their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe >>> there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank >>> ----------------------------------------- >>> From: "Don via Healeys" >>> To: "healey list" >>> Cc: >>> Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM >>> Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs >>> >>> >>> Good Afternoon All >>> I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with >>> electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was >>> told they can?t get them anymore. >>> What else is everyone using with success? >>> Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 27 10:27:00 2021 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 17:27:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>, <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Jan 27 10:48:18 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 12:48:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Do these lines look familar? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <65DBF0B4-9410-4DD8-ACAC-DB9152650584@rogers.com> I?ve always loved the Swallow Doretti, and the story of Frank Rainbow designing and building a car in 9 months. The tragic thing is that it was killed by company politics. Jaguar didn?t like their steel supplier having a rival car on the market. But, unlike most sports car histories (like the Healey?s) the Doretti was a financial success until the plug was pulled. Ironic, because Swallow was the company that gave birth to Jaguar! It really should have been the replacement for the TR2. Stephen, BJ8 > On Jan 27, 2021, at 11:27 AM, Tom wrote: > > > Nice looking car: https://uncrate.com/1954-swallow-doretti-roadster/ > > Kinda looks familar, doesn't it? > > - Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Wed Jan 27 11:14:17 2021 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Doug Barker) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 13:14:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <4ocolNyy3GeKb4ocplBjVG@videotron.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <4ocolNyy3GeKb4ocplBjVG@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <00dc01d6f4d8$3acd61a0$b06824e0$@videotron.ca> I have used RN12YC for my 66 healey and have no problems-for 20 years From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Laurie Wilford Sent: January-27-21 12:27 PM Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I'm with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I've been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can't get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 27 11:15:34 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 19:15:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: > I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have > experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. > Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but > the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was > defective. > Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on > the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last > things I did. > > Laurie Wilford > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: warthodson--- via Healeys > Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) > To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever > had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the > incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does > failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to > the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. > Mirek > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of > *gradea1 at charter.net > *Sent:* January 26, 2021 4:25 PM > *To:* 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > *Cc:* 'healey list' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. > Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the > '70s. > I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and > never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about > their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe there > is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Don via Healeys" > To: "healey list" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM > Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > > Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic > ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they > can?t get them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net > /> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Wed Jan 27 11:22:04 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 18:22:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <40fd72f9-52de-a943-a19d-b8421f22a93a@summaventures.com> References: <000001d6f3d2$0f5133f0$2df39bd0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <77cadce9-b6c1-2d47-757f-a62af6ec569b@summaventures.com> <000001d6f417$ea9dbec0$bfd93c40$@alexarevel.plus.com> <40fd72f9-52de-a943-a19d-b8421f22a93a@summaventures.com> Message-ID: <7ca29221-5ea9-971d-1dec-35e0b944e30e@summaventures.com> My mistake there was a reply: Q: "Can you please tell me which works 100/6 this came from, please. Many thanks?" A: No Make of that what you will. Peter On 27/01/2021 09:58, Peter Dzwig wrote: > Absolutely they were and they were widely use. Just not by the works. > > I asked the buyer which works car, and so far I haven't had a reply... > > Peter > > On 26/01/2021 19:17, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: >> Hi, >> I think the inlets were sold in some quantities. And I wouldn't necessarily >> associate them with the BMC Works dept. >> But, I'm only guessing. I'm not a great Healey historian. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Peter Dzwig >> Sent: 26 January 2021 13:53 >> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'healeys' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed >> >> I am surprised that it says 100/6. As far as I am aware only one works >> 100/6 was fitted with triple carbs and that was PMO 203 after its works >> rallying career, when Bobby Parkes bought it from BMC in it in 1960. >> They were 2" HD8 SUs. He told me that he didn't change the mecahical spec. >> Since that car is widely believed to have been crashed and written off (and >> there is still room for a little bit of doubt about that) it would either >> mean a near-miracle that the car had survived and been fouond or that just >> the carbs and manifold had. >> >> Checking against a works build-list that I have for UJB 144 at Sebring in >> 1960 and that again used triple HD8s, not HD6s. The spec is Special Engine >> 290. >> >> Interesting :-) >> >> Peter >> >> On 26/01/2021 10:57, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: >>> AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 TRIPLE CARBS RUDD SPEED 1 3/4' SU HD6 BMC WORKS AH >>> 100/6 | eBay >>> >> -1-3-4-SU-HD6-BMC-WORKS-AH-100-6/174606816240> >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> I saw the above item on eBay. I?ve always wanted those manifolds to go >>> with my existing 3 HD6s but I have zero intention of bidding, unless >>> the price drops considerably. Seems very expensive to me. And aren?t >>> there fakes out there? >>> >>> Suppose one could get some money back by flogging the 3 matching(?) >> carbs?. >>> >>> But someone might be interested? >>> >>> Simon >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >>> >> > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From jnew at hazelden.ca Wed Jan 27 14:06:38 2021 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 16:06:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Guidelines Request. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2183637.ElGaqSPkdT@johnpc> Michael, My version (and the one I used for the Parts List at lbcdigital.com) are as follows: Spring - Road - Leaf (BJ7, Early BJ8): Plate H 3: Illustration B3568 Page MH 4, Revised Information. Issue 3 Spring - Road - Leaf (Late BJ8): Plate H 4: Illustration B3645 Page MH 5, Revised Information. Issue 4 These are the latest revisions I have found. If they are later than the ones you have, I can send the scans John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 11:29:20 AM EST Michael Salter wrote: > Does anyone have a copy of the last edition of the BJ8 Parts Book from > which they could send me a scan of the page showing the rear springs. I > need both the pictures and the text. > I have one dated 1969 but understand that there may have been a later > edition. > Thanks. > > M > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 27 14:16:19 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 21:16:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time.? Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective.? Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford? Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance.? ? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs #yiv9461297388 p.yiv9461297388MsoNormal, #yiv9461297388 li.yiv9461297388MsoNormal, #yiv9461297388 div.yiv9461297388MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9461297388 a:link, #yiv9461297388 span.yiv9461297388MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9461297388 span.yiv9461297388EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9461297388 .yiv9461297388MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. ? Mirek ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs ? Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. ? I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing.? Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 27 16:29:41 2021 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 18:29:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump . Any thoughts or comments? Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 27, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference. Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time. Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? > Mike MacLean > > On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > > Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. > > I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: > > I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. > Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. > > Laurie Wilford > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: warthodson--- via Healeys > Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) > To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > Cc: 'healey list' > Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. > > Mirek > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net > Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM > To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' > Cc: 'healey list' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. > > I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Don via Healeys" > To: "healey list" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM > Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > > Good Afternoon All > I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. > What else is everyone using with success? > Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > /> > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > /> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net > /> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 27 16:52:50 2021 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 23:52:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings might help cool the engine compartment? Regards, Richard C BN7 440 On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys wrote: ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump . Any thoughts or comments? Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone On Jan 27, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: ? Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference. Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time. Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca, gradea1 at charter.net, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Jan 27 17:22:17 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 00:22:17 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006f01d6f50b$a3c217e0$eb4647a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Emigrate to Devon? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Don via Healeys Sent: 27 January 2021 23:30 To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump . Any thoughts or comments? Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone On Jan 27, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: ? Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference. Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time. Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca , gradea1 at charter.net , fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net ; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com ' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 19:50:26 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 18:50:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. Bob On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings > might help cool the engine compartment? > > Regards, > Richard C > BN7 440 > >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much >> advance ? ?With DW headers ?, ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic >> coated ?? ?I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump >> . Any thoughts or comments? >> ? ? ? Thanks , Don >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 19:56:48 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 18:56:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <79fabcfa-e279-bcbc-8f3d-999815bb3201@comcast.net> I think the Champions we have in our BN2/100M are RN9YC; I can verify this weekend. On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley > Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest > Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high performance" plugs > from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best of all they are only > 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time.? Does > anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? > Mike MacLean > > On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > > > Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my > vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less > important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when > they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten > years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very > cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. > > I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: > I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have > experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. > Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but > the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was > defective. > Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on > the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last > things I did. > > Laurie Wilford > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Jan 27 20:09:28 2021 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 22:09:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004101d6f522$fe12b3a0$fa381ae0$@verizon.net> Try: Healey 100 bonnets punched with 100M specifications. Correct factory pattern. When finished are concours correct. Call or email for prices. Kent Lacy, 329 Mill Stone Road, Chesapeake, VA 23322 757-482-2813 hklacy at verizon.net John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. Bob On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings > might help cool the engine compartment? > > Regards, > Richard C > BN7 440 > >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much >> advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic >> coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump >> . Any thoughts or comments? >> Thanks , Don >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 20:21:47 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 19:21:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <004101d6f522$fe12b3a0$fa381ae0$@verizon.net> References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> <004101d6f522$fe12b3a0$fa381ae0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <734fd9f1-97f2-e0c6-7125-3c3a4c2be2c2@comcast.net> Unfortunately, we lost Kent a while back: https://www.omanfh.com/obituaries/Howell-Kent-Lacy?obId=18157898 On 1/27/2021 7:09 PM, ahbn6 at verizon.net wrote: > Try: > > Healey 100 bonnets punched with 100M specifications. Correct factory pattern. When finished are concours correct. Call or email for prices. > > Kent Lacy, 329 Mill Stone Road, Chesapeake, VA 23322 757-482-2813 > > hklacy at verizon.net > > John Sims > www.healey6.com > Matawan, NJ > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:50 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs > > The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? > > I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. > > Bob > > From phoenix722 at comcast.net Wed Jan 27 22:09:38 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2021 21:09:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] failure notice Message-ID: Mark--This email didn't go thru (probably too big), and I keep getting retries.? Anyway, can you just cancel it?? TX. Mike Sinclair This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification. Delivery to the following recipients was aborted after 49.2 hour(s): *healeys at autox.team.net Reason: Temporary Failure Reporting-MTA: dns; resqmta-po-11v.sys.comcast.net [96.114.154.170] Received-From-MTA: dns; resdmta-po-01v.sys.comcast.net [96.114.154.209] Arrival-Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2021 03:13:58 +0000 Final-recipient: rfc822;healeys at autox.team.net Diagnostic-Code: smtp; 452 4.3.4 Message size exceeds fixed limit Last-attempt-Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 04:27:46 +0000 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Thu Jan 28 06:48:22 2021 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Doug Barker) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> I gap mine at 29? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: January-27-21 9:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I think the Champions we have in our BN2/100M are RN9YC; I can verify this weekend. On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference. Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time. Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 28 06:15:02 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:15:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet References: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> Louvers let a lot of heat out but also rain in. Seen a few with a drip pan fit beneath the louvers over the years that helped with that problem. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7842.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31793 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7843.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 33049 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 28 08:13:26 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:13:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs BN2 References: <1716348166.644469.1611846806530.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1716348166.644469.1611846806530@mail.yahoo.com> MichaelWe run Champion N5C plugs in our BN2. has 1-3/4 carbs, stock ignition, cast iron head that is slightly ported and a bit more compression than stock. Plugs work well for parades through Interstate driving. I wish I could say the same for the cooling system when talking about parades!.?Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Jan 28 08:22:44 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:22:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <784696106.115919.1611847364782@mail.yahoo.com> It sounds like you have taken most to the precautions suggested to minimize vapor lock. What cam do you have? What compression was your engine built to? What advance is the ignition set at? When you experience vapor lock, what is the water temp. reading & have you checked the gage accuracy? Do you have a heat shield installed between the header & intake manifold?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Don via Healeys To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 5:29 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much advance ? ?With DW headers ?, ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic coated ?? ?I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump . Any thoughts or comments??? ? ? Thanks , Don? #yiv8183284872 p.yiv8183284872MsoNormal, #yiv8183284872 li.yiv8183284872MsoNormal, #yiv8183284872 div.yiv8183284872MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8183284872 a:link, #yiv8183284872 span.yiv8183284872MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8183284872 span.yiv8183284872EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8183284872 .yiv8183284872MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 08:46:12 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 10:46:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Louvered bonnet In-Reply-To: References: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33.ref@aol.com> <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> Message-ID: Whatever their downsides, louvers are just bitchin' Here's about 75 pages of pictures from people who feel the same way: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-louvers.1028008/ Admit it, how many of us just put them in along with fender vents as much for the looks as their cooling ability. Yours are looking good Perry. Have fun sanding around those things on both sides, I'll send you a box of band-aids. Thanks for the opportunity to show mine. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 9:40 AM Perry Small via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Louvers let a lot of heat out but also rain in. Seen a few with a drip > pan fit beneath the louvers over the years that helped with that problem. > Perry > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0490 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59134 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 09:24:20 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:24:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Louvered bonnet In-Reply-To: References: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33.ref@aol.com> <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> Message-ID: Looking good. Not sure about the trunk lid with the louvers? Unless is was a Tatra I've never seen. Some folks went crazy. I do really like the look of it though in general. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:48 AM HealeyRick wrote: > > > > Whatever their downsides, louvers are just bitchin' Here's about 75 pages > of pictures from people who feel the same way: > https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-louvers.1028008/ Admit > it, how many of us just put them in along with fender vents as much for the > looks as their cooling ability. Yours are looking good Perry. Have fun > sanding around those things on both sides, I'll send you a box of > band-aids. Thanks for the opportunity to show mine. > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 9:40 AM Perry Small via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Louvers let a lot of heat out but also rain in. Seen a few with a drip >> pan fit beneath the louvers over the years that helped with that problem. >> Perry >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 28 11:43:33 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:43:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Louvers In-Reply-To: <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1228219596.755440.1611859413028@mail.yahoo.com> See How to Cut Hot Rod Louvers the Old-Fashioned Waywww.hotrod.com/articles/see-cut-hot-rod-louvers-old-fashioned-way/ BobYou ask about louvers Link should take you to a Hot Rod article about the subject, albeit in the old school method.? A net search will show shops that do this work.Perry? -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 9:50 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. Bob On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings > might help cool the engine compartment? > > Regards, > Richard C > BN7 440 > >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much >> advance ? ?With DW headers ?, ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic >> coated ?? ?I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump >> . Any thoughts or comments? >> ? ? ? Thanks , Don >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Thu Jan 28 11:50:00 2021 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 19:50:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet In-Reply-To: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> References: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33.ref@aol.com> <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> Message-ID: <000101d6f5a6$617cbf70$24763e50$@aon.at> Perry, One of the past owners of my BN1 installed a louvered bonnet. Some years ago I had problems with overheating and maybe the louvres did help a little. But when the engine got too hot, it was too hot. Only a longer brake or constant driving at higher speed could reduce the temperature. On the other hand I never had any problems with the rain and especially while driving in classic car rallies I often had no other possibility than driving in the pouring rain. Sometimes I even did not have time enough to close the hood - but getting myself wet is another thing. The only point about the louvres I do not really like is washing and polishing the bonnet. A flat surface of the standard bonnet would make it a lot easier. Anyway I love the look. Reinhart -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Perry Small via Healeys Gesendet: Donnerstag, 28. J?nner 2021 14:15 An: Betreff: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet Louvers let a lot of heat out but also rain in. Seen a few with a drip pan fit beneath the louvers over the years that helped with that problem. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC05731.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 166785 bytes Desc: not available URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Thu Jan 28 14:31:20 2021 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 21:31:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Message-ID: Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 15:01:35 2021 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 17:01:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: <012a01d6f5c1$25ab12b0$71013810$@gmail.com> Re louvered hood: when I bought my BT-7 someone had put a louvered hood on it. I found that in heavy traffic or hot weather the heat did indeed come out of the louvers. It would wash over the windscreen and heat the occupants! The engine was happy, but I was miserable?. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 6:53 PM To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings might help cool the engine compartment? Regards, Richard C BN7 440 On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys > wrote: ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump . Any thoughts or comments? Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone On Jan 27, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: ? Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference. Best of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time. Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. Kees Oudesluijs Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was defective. Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on the highway. Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last things I did. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: warthodson--- via Healeys Date: 2021-01-27 10:33 a.m. (GMT-05:00) To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca , gradea1 at charter.net , fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I have never had a spark plug let me down. Has anyone on the list ever had an issue that could be attributed to a spark plug? Using the incorrect spark plug for the application does not count, nor does failing to change plugs when required. Both of those are attributed to the failure of the person responsible for maintenance. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca To: gradea1 at charter.net ; fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Cc: 'healey list' Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 6:48 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs I?m with Hank, Champions have never let me down. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: January 26, 2021 4:25 PM To: 'fsufan1952 at yahoo.com ' Cc: 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Seems like a sacrelige to use Japanese plugs in a British machine. Especially since the 240 Z buried the British sports car market in the '70s. I have always used Champion UN12Y plugs as specified for the BJ8, and never had a problem even though Champion had some bad press about their manufacturing. Of course I use regular points, so maybe there is not as much demand on my plugs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Don via Healeys" To: "healey list" Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 26 2021 10:28:46AM Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Good Afternoon All I?ve been using NGK spark plugs , BP6 ES. In my 67 BJ8 with electronic ignition. I just went to my local parts store and I was told they can?t get them anymore. What else is everyone using with success? Thank You , Don Day 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu Jan 28 15:22:27 2021 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 14:22:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d6f5c4$119486f0$34bd94d0$@cox.net> Double check your float levels and make sure your fuel pump is working out properly. I've had this issue with weak fuel pumps. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 1:31 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn't have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 15:25:45 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 17:25:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, The best way to find out who punches louvers in your area is to go to a local hot rod show (when we can have them again), find the guys with louvered cars and ask who did them. Usually it's a hot rod shop. You should know the louvers won't look like the ones that were done on the 100M, the dies used to punch them were different than those used in the US. Another thing to consider is the amount of work prepping the louvers for paint takes. There's a lot of hand sanding required and getting through the process without any slashes on your fingers while trying to keep some of your fingerprints intact is a struggle. Also, you'll need a good painter as the paint sometimes runs around the ends of the louvers. But if you like the look, it's all worth it in the end. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 9:51 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered > bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? > > I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. > > Bob > > On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings > > might help cool the engine compartment? > > > > Regards, > > Richard C > > BN7 440 > > > >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys > >> wrote: > >> > >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic > >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much > >> advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust > >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic > >> coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped > >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU > >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and > >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal > >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame > >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump > >> . Any thoughts or comments? > >> Thanks , Don > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 28 15:36:58 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 14:36:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <710da0cb-40b2-8863-9b9e-cdc8cd756a51@comcast.net> Message-ID: <490d50ed-4119-371b-c745-a15a91102003@comcast.net> Thanks, Rick. I'm familiar with the hazards of louvers; we painted our 100M (we did OK, not great). On 1/28/2021 2:25 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Bob, > > The best way to find out who punches louvers in your area is to go to > a local hot rod show (when we can have them again), find the guys with > louvered cars and ask who did them.? Usually it's a hot rod shop.? You > should know the louvers won't look like the ones that were done on the > 100M, the dies used to punch them were different than those used in > the US.? Another thing to consider is the amount of work prepping the > louvers for paint takes.? There's a lot of hand sanding required and > getting through the process without any slashes on your fingers while > trying to keep some of your fingerprints intact is a struggle.? Also, > you'll need a good painter as the paint sometimes runs around the ends > of the louvers.? But if you like the look, it's all worth it in the end. > > Happy and Healthy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 9:51 PM Bob Spidell > wrote: > > The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a > louvered > bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? > > I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 16:01:08 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:01:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> Message-ID: Must be one hell of a spark! On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500, you wrote: >I gap mine at 29? -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Thu Jan 28 16:02:51 2021 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Doug Barker) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:02:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <5GHmlarMeNMBW5GHolxGRB@videotron.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> <5GHmlarMeNMBW5GHolxGRB@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <01c601d6f5c9$b4c7e880$1e57b980$@videotron.ca> Yup-has never let me down -----Original Message----- From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com [mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com] Sent: January-28-21 6:01 PM To: Doug Barker Cc: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Must be one hell of a spark! On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500, you wrote: >I gap mine at 29" -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 28 16:06:20 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:06:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <43212434-cfd5-6a42-3a75-0476a4bf857f@comcast.net> Electricity, Item Number 1400443 On 1/28/2021 3:01 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: > Must be one hell of a spark! > > On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500, you wrote: > >> I gap mine at 29? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Thu Jan 28 16:07:44 2021 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Doug Barker) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:07:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <5GMplXM0r3wKq5GMqlUOYW@videotron.ca> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> <4xVHlkc1heR1S4xVIl4A9t@videotron.ca> <012c01d6f57c$3f0ec250$bd2c46f0$@videotron.ca> <5GMplXM0r3wKq5GMqlUOYW@videotron.ca> Message-ID: <01cb01d6f5ca$6367bc30$2a373490$@videotron.ca> No hair after From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: January-28-21 6:06 PM To: sentenac.rw at gmail.com; Doug Barker Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Electricity, Item Number 1400443 On 1/28/2021 3:01 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: Must be one hell of a spark! On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500, you wrote: I gap mine at 29? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Thu Jan 28 16:27:36 2021 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:27:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet In-Reply-To: <000101d6f5a6$617cbf70$24763e50$@aon.at> References: <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33.ref@aol.com> <3A3D6BA7-A55C-4A50-ABC4-2B2772E40F33@aol.com> <000101d6f5a6$617cbf70$24763e50$@aon.at> Message-ID: <1455535106.6561356.1611876456524.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> I'm doing a louvered bonnet on my BN1, as well as triangular vents in the front fenders. I have headers that are wrapped and a heat shield installed. Even in Northwest Florida, I'm not expecting an overheating problem. My BT7 will run all day at 185 F in normal traffic. I don't have thermostats in any of my old British sports cars. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Reinhart Rosner" To: "Perry Small" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 12:50:00 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet Perry, One of the past owners of my BN1 installed a louvered bonnet. Some years ago I had problems with overheating and maybe the louvres did help a little. But when the engine got too hot, it was too hot. Only a longer brake or constant driving at higher speed could reduce the temperature. On the other hand I never had any problems with the rain and especially while driving in classic car rallies I often had no other possibility than driving in the pouring rain. Sometimes I even did not have time enough to close the hood - but getting myself wet is another thing. The only point about the louvres I do not really like is washing and polishing the bonnet. A flat surface of the standard bonnet would make it a lot easier. Anyway I love the look. Reinhart -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Perry Small via Healeys Gesendet: Donnerstag, 28. J?nner 2021 14:15 An: Betreff: [Healeys] Louvered bonnet Louvers let a lot of heat out but also rain in. Seen a few with a drip pan fit beneath the louvers over the years that helped with that problem. Perry _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 16:32:46 2021 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:32:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <024401d6f5cd$e2bfcdd0$a83f6970$@gmail.com> Len - if it runs right and passes all the other carb tuning tests I would think the mixture is about right. What you are describing might be consistent with temporary/momentary low fuel. You might re-check your float level[s], and make sure you aren't starving it for fuel at high fuel consumption speeds. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 4:31 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn't have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Jan 28 16:43:26 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 23:43:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Message-ID: <909cbcc77f454446642eec781ac66cafed014bf9@webmail> Sounds lean too me. I think lifting the piston with the pin is a bit nebulous, as you cannot gauge the amount of lift. Using the SU tool set you insert rods into the pistons and you can then accurately lift each piston 1/32" which is the thickness of the rod. Another method is Color Tune in which you can see the richness of the mixture...these are much more accurate procedures than the lift the piston method. There could be many other factors, as discussed, but if all runs well at low rpms, then if properly adjusted, the car should perform throughout the entire range. I just had a similar issue with my BJ8 cutting out at about 2500 RPMs, unloaded...turned out to be the white/black wire mounted to the master shutoff switch being frayed! Small things make big issues. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Leonard Berkowitz" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Thursday January 28 2021 1:37:58PM Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 18:49:49 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 09:49:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 engine head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: SC parts sells a composite head gasket with steel rings, would this be a good choice for me if it turns out the deck isn't totally flat? Head will be off tomorrow. https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1953-1968/engine/cylinder-head-bn1-and-bn2/cylinder-head-gasket-14175.html On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 1:15 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > Ah ... I thought 0.0025" was a bit thin ;) > > > On 1/26/2021 8:22 PM, David Porter wrote: > > No, in addition to the head gasket. I used a tiny drop of super glue to > locate them when assembling. On the deck side. > > > On January 26, 2021, at 8:08 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > On the copper gaskets I've seen--not terribly many--the rings are integral > to the gasket; are we saying they can be swapped? > > bs > > On 1/26/2021 6:35 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > Hi David - > > This is very interesting. Let me see what it looks like when I get the > head off, and I might ask for your guy's contacts if that's what I > determine is the problem. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:27 AM David P wrote: > >> I solved this by having a gasket maker in Lubbock make individual 0.0025 >> rings to provide a little more squish around each bore. Dave >> On 1/26/2021 11:09 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >> If you are going to use a steel or MLS gasket you are going to have to >> resurface the block and head. They need a finer finish than copper. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> BN1 #554 >> ------------------------------ >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Jan 28 19:26:08 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 13:26:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC41BE4-528A-4D2F-A512-1E3099CEFFCE@gmail.com> Kilmartin?s here in Australia will louvre your bonnet on their tooling. I know because I spoke to Greg Kilmartin about doing an Austin A35 bonnet for me. Best Chris > On 29 Jan 2021, at 9:26 am, HealeyRick wrote: > > ? > Bob, > > The best way to find out who punches louvers in your area is to go to a local hot rod show (when we can have them again), find the guys with louvered cars and ask who did them. Usually it's a hot rod shop. You should know the louvers won't look like the ones that were done on the 100M, the dies used to punch them were different than those used in the US. Another thing to consider is the amount of work prepping the louvers for paint takes. There's a lot of hand sanding required and getting through the process without any slashes on your fingers while trying to keep some of your fingerprints intact is a struggle. Also, you'll need a good painter as the paint sometimes runs around the ends of the louvers. But if you like the look, it's all worth it in the end. > > Happy and Healthy Healeying, > Rick Neville > >> On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 9:51 PM Bob Spidell wrote: >> The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a louvered >> bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? >> >> I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no issues. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: >> > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the wings >> > might help cool the engine compartment? >> > >> > Regards, >> > Richard C >> > BN7 440 >> > >> >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys >> >> wrote: >> >> >> >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with electronic >> >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much >> >> advance ? With DW headers , ceramic coated , and his 2 inch exhaust >> >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic >> >> coated ? I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve wrapped >> >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe Couture SU >> >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES radiator and >> >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal >> >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the frame >> >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic fuel pump >> >> . Any thoughts or comments? >> >> Thanks , Don >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 28 19:31:24 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:31:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <3BC41BE4-528A-4D2F-A512-1E3099CEFFCE@gmail.com> References: <3BC41BE4-528A-4D2F-A512-1E3099CEFFCE@gmail.com> Message-ID: I've always wanted to visit Oz ... but I don't think it'll fit in the overheads ;) On 1/28/2021 6:26 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Kilmartin?s here in Australia will louvre your bonnet on their tooling. > I know because I spoke to Greg Kilmartin about doing an Austin A35 > bonnet for me. > Best > Chris > >> On 29 Jan 2021, at 9:26 am, HealeyRick wrote: >> >> ? >> Bob, >> >> The best way to find out who punches louvers in your area is to go to >> a local hot rod show (when we can have them again), find the guys >> with louvered cars and ask who did them.? Usually it's a hot rod >> shop.? You should know the louvers won't look like the ones that were >> done on the 100M, the dies used to punch them were different than >> those used in the US.? Another thing to consider is the amount of >> work prepping the louvers for paint takes. There's a lot of hand >> sanding required and getting through the process without any slashes >> on your fingers while trying to keep some of your fingerprints intact >> is a struggle.? Also, you'll need a good painter as the paint >> sometimes runs around the ends of the louvers.? But if you like the >> look, it's all worth it in the end. >> >> Happy and Healthy Healeying, >> Rick Neville >> >> On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 9:51 PM Bob Spidell > > wrote: >> >> The BJ8 they bought/sold on Wheeler Dealers a while back had a >> louvered >> bonnet. I'm intrigued, anyone know who can do this? >> >> I gap my mostly bone stock BJ8 with Pertronix at 0.028" ... no >> issues. >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/27/2021 3:52 PM, Richard Collins wrote: >> > I know it?s heresy but louvered hood and or rally vents on the >> wings >> > might help cool the engine compartment? >> > >> > Regards, >> > Richard C >> > BN7 440 >> > >> >> On Jan 27, 2021, at 17:30, Don via Healeys >> > >> >> wrote: >> >> >> >> ? So to push this to the next level . With a 67 BJ8 with >> electronic >> >> ignition, in the Florida heat , is 32 gap or 30 ? And how much >> >> advance ?? With DW headers ?, ceramic coated , and his 2 inch >> exhaust >> >> system and AHSPARES tubular intake manifold, which I had ceramic >> >> coated ?? ?I?m still getting a lot of heat vapor lock . I?ve >> wrapped >> >> the headers , wrapped the fuel lines , and installed Joe >> Couture SU >> >> float bowl insulation wraps . Along with a new AHSPARES >> radiator and >> >> an electric fan , pusher in front of the radiator. And in minimal >> >> traffic, I still have to deal with vapor lock . When I did the >> frame >> >> off restoration 10 years ago , I used a AHSPARES electronic >> fuel pump >> >> . Any thoughts or comments? >> >> ? ? ? Thanks , Don >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Jan 28 19:59:59 2021 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:59:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?spark_plugs?= Message-ID: <20210129025959.1107.qmail@server278.com> i stay away from Champions. have had three cases where new plugs had at least one dead one, both on cars and on marine engines. never had a problem with NGK or Bosch. From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 28 20:24:19 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2021 19:24:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d6f5ee$3b9e73f0$b2db5bd0$@sbcglobal.net> Is it backfiring (flames coming out of the air cleaner) or spitting (fuel coming out of the air cleaner). Check the oil level in the dashpot. If it is spitting you may be able to see some splattered oil on the bonnet directly above the carb. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 1:31 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn't have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Fri Jan 29 06:56:26 2021 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 08:56:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spridget wanted Message-ID: <38f76504-fc41-4aae-2068-17bd345ff9ba@comcast.net> I know of someone looking for a Spridget.? Does anyone have one ready to sell?? He is in Europe, and he is familiar with shipping.? Apparently rubber bumpers are okay, and/or a mild project could be considered. Thanks. Charlie From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 29 07:13:57 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 14:13:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> Len and ListersPushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up.? What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition.? This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is going to operate throughout the RPM range.?? There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play.? The carb float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly.?Flutter at high RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of ignition points.The list goes on and on......P -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Berkowitz Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question #yiv9115048286 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. ?My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean?? Len Berkowitz? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 29 09:18:22 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 08:18:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." Bob On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > Len and Listers > Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the > mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly,? and > listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up.? What do you do next? > You continue to raise the pin? to see what happens. If the idle > continues to rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle > stops going up and starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If > the idle does not increase from the start you usually assume you are > in a lean condition.? This gets the carb mixture close at idle which > in theory means the carb is going to operate throughout the RPM range. > > There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in > the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That > is when allot of other stuff comes into play.? The carb float bowl > items, needle/seat and float level? must be set correctly. Float must > not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main > needle and jet and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. > Flutter at high RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction > chamber is weak or the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and > condition and setting of ignition points. > The list goes on and on...... > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Leonard Berkowitz > Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > Hi all > > Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I > thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes > Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the > piston a very small amount. Mine does that. ?My dwell angle is where > it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds > beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that > when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into > my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in > the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or > too lean? > > Len Berkowitz > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 29 09:49:05 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 08:49:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001e01d6f65e$a8b76bc0$fa264340$@sbcglobal.net> I use a Uni-Sync too but I also used a hose when I recently installed new HS4 tricarbs. The hose works well too but it does not give you an indication of air volume, just equal noise. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 29, 2021 8:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." Bob On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: Len and Listers Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is going to operate throughout the RPM range. There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of ignition points. The list goes on and on...... P -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Berkowitz Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 10:08:24 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 12:08:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> Message-ID: It seems to me that most of the responses to this issue with "backfiring" through the carbs at higher throttle settings of engine speeds fail to address the question of carburettor needle profile. The needle profiles recommended for our cars were developed by dyno testing at Morris Engines. The fuels used for these tests would have been somewhat different from what we get today and this almost certainly has a significant effect on the needle requirements for engines running on SU carburettors. Data is a bit hard to find on the subject but what reading I have done indicates that there have been very significant changes in SG and oxygen content over the years. I would surmise that there is a very good chance that one of the results of these changes would be the necessity to use reprofiled needles to maintain consistent mixtures throughout all operating conditions. A pretty good idea of what mixtures the engine is ingesting can be acquired by installing an O2 sensor and gauge like this. After taking readings with a needle height gauge through the problem areas the results obtained can then be used to select an improved profile needle from the huge selection that SU produced. People have been known to put needles in a drill press and use emery paper to decrease the diameter of SU needles to "adjust" mixtures through the affected areas of the range rather than buying dozens of sets of needles to experiment with then purchasing needles that duplicate the "modified" profile. Not a project for the faint of heart and to do it properly you need a dyno.... M On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the > airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at > all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if > it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you > have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a > crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' > technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. > > To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand > times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." > > Bob > > On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > > Len and Listers > Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the > mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and > listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You > continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to > rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and > starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not > increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. > This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is > going to operate throughout the RPM range. > > There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the > same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when > allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, > needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be > leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet > and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM > may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the > incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of > ignition points. > The list goes on and on...... > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Leonard Berkowitz > > Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > Hi all > > Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I > thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel > the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very > small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and > the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the > accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I > get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it > doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound > like I am running too rich or too lean? > > Len Berkowitz > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Fri Jan 29 10:30:47 2021 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 11:30:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <01c601d6f5c9$b4c7e880$1e57b980$@videotron.ca> Message-ID: It seems like the proper gap is more dependent on the coil output than whether you have a pertronix or other electronic ignition vs. points.? I feel like points might wear and pit faster using a hotter coil, but the pertronix is just triggering the coil to do it's thing at the right time to coincide with the rotor hitting the contact in the cap.? I am using a hotter coil with my pertronix setup, using NGK GR4 plugs gapped at 30.John O'Brien'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)'61 bugeye (Lucy)Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------- Original message --------From: Doug Barker Date: 1/28/21 5:08 PM (GMT-06:00) To: sentenac.rw at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs Yup-has never let me down-----Original Message-----From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com [mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com] Sent: January-28-21 6:01 PMTo: Doug BarkerCc: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Healeys] Spark PlugsMust be one hell of a spark!On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 08:48:22 -0500, you wrote:>I gap mine at 29"-- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.https://www.avast.com/antivirus_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Larry at patersondesign.ca Fri Jan 29 11:06:49 2021 From: Larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 11:06:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <001e01d6f65e$a8b76bc0$fa264340$@sbcglobal.net> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> <001e01d6f65e$a8b76bc0$fa264340$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <005d01d6f669$851408d0$8f3c1a70$@ca> I had a similar problem while racing. I thought it was carbs but they were Ok, I checked timing it too was OK. What it turned out to be was fuel starvation under acceleration once I got up to speed. I found a tiny kink in the fuel line and problem was solved. Check for this and also check the fuel pump to make sure its delivering maximum fuel and not crapping out on you. Larry From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Friday, January 29, 2021 9:49 AM To: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question I use a Uni-Sync too but I also used a hose when I recently installed new HS4 tricarbs. The hose works well too but it does not give you an indication of air volume, just equal noise. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, January 29, 2021 8:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." Bob On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: Len and Listers Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is going to operate throughout the RPM range. There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of ignition points. The list goes on and on...... P -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Berkowitz Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Fri Jan 29 12:31:59 2021 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 13:31:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: One other rabbit hole to go down is, what about valve float?? At high rpms, if you have a weak intake valve spring, not closing the valve fully before ignition, it could pop back through the carb.Just another idea to muddy the waters.John O'Brien'61 bugeye (Lucy)'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------- Original message --------From: Michael Salter Date: 1/29/21 11:10 AM (GMT-06:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question It seems to me that most of the responses to this issue with "backfiring" through the carbs at higher throttle settings of engine speeds fail to address the question of carburettor needle profile.The needle profiles recommended for our cars were developed by dyno testing at Morris Engines. The fuels used for these tests would have been somewhat different from what we get today and this almost certainly has a significant effect on the needle requirements for engines running on SU carburettors.Data is a bit hard to find on the subject but what reading I have done indicates that there have been very significant changes in SG and oxygen content over the years.I would surmise that there is a very good chance that one of the results of these changes would be the necessity to use reprofiled needles to maintain consistent mixtures throughout all operating conditions.A pretty good idea of what mixtures the engine is ingesting can be acquired by installing an O2 sensor and gauge like this.? After taking readings with a needle height gauge through the problem areas the results obtained can then be used to select an improved profile needle from the huge selection that SU produced.People have been known to put needles in a drill press and use emery paper to decrease the diameter of SU needles to "adjust" mixtures through the affected areas of the range rather than buying dozens of sets of needles to experiment with then purchasing needles that duplicate the "modified" profile.Not a project for the faint of heart and to do it properly you need a dyno....MOn Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob Spidell wrote: I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." Bob On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: Len and Listers Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up.? What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition.? This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is going to operate throughout the RPM range.?? There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play.? The carb float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly.?Flutter at high RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of ignition points. The list goes on and on...... P -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Berkowitz Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that.? My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean?? Len Berkowitz? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 15:12:11 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 17:12:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery. I can't remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to pump a gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. Best--Michael Oritt On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Len and Listers > Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the > mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and > listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You > continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to > rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and > starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not > increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. > This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is > going to operate throughout the RPM range. > > There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the > same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when > allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, > needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be > leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet > and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM > may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the > incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting of > ignition points. > The list goes on and on...... > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Leonard Berkowitz > Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > Hi all > > Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I > thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel > the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very > small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and > the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the > accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I > get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it > doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound > like I am running too rich or too lean? > > Len Berkowitz > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 15:28:29 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 17:28:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <601462b5.1c69fb81.5ca74.fbffSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> References: <601462b5.1c69fb81.5ca74.fbffSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I'm betting that as the problem appeared after carb work that's where the problem most likely resides. M On Fri., Jan. 29, 2021, 2:32 p.m. banjojohn, wrote: > One other rabbit hole to go down is, what about valve float? At high > rpms, if you have a weak intake valve spring, not closing the valve fully > before ignition, it could pop back through the carb. > > Just another idea to muddy the waters. > > John O'Brien > '61 bugeye (Lucy) > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Michael Salter > Date: 1/29/21 11:10 AM (GMT-06:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > It seems to me that most of the responses to this issue with "backfiring" > through the carbs at higher throttle settings of engine speeds fail to > address the question of carburettor needle profile. > The needle profiles recommended for our cars were developed by dyno > testing at Morris Engines. The fuels used for these tests would have been > somewhat different from what we get today and this almost certainly has a > significant effect on the needle requirements for engines running on SU > carburettors. > Data is a bit hard to find on the subject but what reading I have done > indicates that there have been very significant changes in SG and oxygen > content over the years. > I would surmise that there is a very good chance that one of the results > of these changes would be the necessity to use reprofiled needles to > maintain consistent mixtures throughout all operating conditions. > A pretty good idea of what mixtures the engine is ingesting can be > acquired by installing an O2 sensor and gauge like this. > > > After taking readings with a needle height gauge through the problem areas > the results obtained can then be used to select an improved profile needle > from the huge selection that SU produced. > People have been known to put needles in a drill press and use emery paper > to decrease the diameter of SU needles to "adjust" mixtures through the > affected areas of the range rather than buying dozens of sets of needles to > experiment with then purchasing needles that duplicate the "modified" > profile. > Not a project for the faint of heart and to do it properly you need a > dyno.... > > M > > On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:18 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > >> I dunno if it can cause high RPM backfiring (I think it could), but the >> airflow on all (2-3) carbs has to be the same--or, at least, very close--at >> all throttle positions. This has to be checked off-idle, obviously, but if >> it's good at, say, 2,500RPM it should be good at all speeds; if not, you >> have to disconnect the throttle connect shaft to set them. I suppose a >> crack Brit-car mechanic can test with the recommended 'hose-in-the-ear' >> technique--my ear hose is collecting dust somewhere--but I use a Uni-Syn. >> >> To paraphrase the TV commercial we've all (probably) seen a thousand >> times: "If you don't have a carburettor synchronizer, get one." >> >> Bob >> >> On 1/29/2021 6:13 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: >> >> Len and Listers >> Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the >> mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and >> listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You >> continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to >> rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and >> starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not >> increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. >> This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is >> going to operate throughout the RPM range. >> >> There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the >> same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when >> allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, >> needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be >> leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet >> and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high >> RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or >> the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting >> of ignition points. >> The list goes on and on...... >> P >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Leonard Berkowitz >> >> Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question >> >> Hi all >> >> Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I >> thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel >> the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very >> small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and >> the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the >> accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I >> get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it >> doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound >> like I am running too rich or too lean? >> >> Len Berkowitz >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jan 29 16:43:17 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 18:43:17 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Message-ID: <1163420225.6108.1611963797822@wamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 29 17:32:51 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:32:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <2900b337-893f-034c-e1b9-622d0c6ae4ed@comcast.net> Message-ID: <698327253.334528.1611966771666@mail.yahoo.com> One more possibility on this subject. It is possible that if Len's BJ7 has points ignition & the points are "floating" at this speed/RPM it might sound like backfiring thru the carbs?? Also, Len did not mention if this is occurring with the O.D. engaged or not. Also, Len did not state what octane grade of fuel he is using.?One more comment: In my experience, the owner rarely mentions any non-original modifications/"improvements" they have made to the car. Such as: air cleaners, PCV systems, compression ratio, cam, jets, needles, springs, the list goes on & on.?We need to know about anything that is not O.E. including the specifications. I do not think it is related to today's fuel vs. the fuel available when the cars were tested by the factory. If that were the case then many more of us would be experiencing the same issue.? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Berkowitz Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question Hi all Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that.? My dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound like I am running too rich or too lean?? Len Berkowitz? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jan 29 17:47:43 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 19:47:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <1163420225.6108.1611963797822@wamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <1163420225.6108.1611963797822@wamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Bob-- Well I knew it was *some* easily-measurable quantity per minute and was going to put down a quart, which pretty much corresponds to 18 gph. So I'd suggest to Len that since the problem appears to be an issue at high speeds which would correspond to high fuel consumption, that he test his pump's fuel delivery with an open head at a point just before the float bowls . Best--Michael Oritt On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 6:43 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > Michael, > > I believe the AUF300/AZX1300 pumps put out about 18 US gallons per hour. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) > '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) > '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) > '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) > '80 MBG LE (running?) > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Michael Oritt > Sent: Jan 29, 2021 5:12 PM > To: Perry Small > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery. I can't > remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to pump a > gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > > On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Len and Listers >> Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test the >> mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so slightly, and >> listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. What do you do next? You >> continue to raise the pin to see what happens. If the idle continues to >> rise you know you are in a rich condition. If the idle stops going up and >> starts to drop off the mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not >> increase from the start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. >> This gets the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is >> going to operate throughout the RPM range. >> >> There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is in the >> same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as new. That is when >> allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb float bowl items, >> needle/seat and float level must be set correctly. Float must not be >> leaking thus making it sink. Carb must have the correct main needle and jet >> and they have to be installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high >> RPM may indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or >> the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and setting >> of ignition points. >> The list goes on and on...... >> P >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Leonard Berkowitz >> Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question >> >> Hi all >> >> Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my BJ7. I >> thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my Haynes Manuel >> the engine speed should increase slightly when you lift the piston a very >> small amount. Mine does that. My dwell angle is where it needs to be and >> the car starts and idles nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the >> accelerator linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I >> get what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it >> doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound >> like I am running too rich or too lean? >> >> Len Berkowitz >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 29 21:20:22 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2021 20:20:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Jensen Interceptor Message-ID: <621c3a14-5411-db18-e772-64df8463f8b5@comcast.net> This may be behind a paywall--if so, my apologies--but I had to pass it on in case it isn't (or for NYT subscribers). I always liked this car: https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/28/business/classic-cars-jensen-interceptor.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 29 23:05:40 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 07:05:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The SU AUF 301/303/305 fuel pump should deliver 15 Imperial gallons/hour. Maximum pressure should be 3,8psi. Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-1-2021 om 23:12 schreef Michael Oritt: > If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery.? I > can't remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to > pump a gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I > am wrong. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > > On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys > > wrote: > > Len and Listers > Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test > the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so > slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up.? > What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what > happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich > condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the > mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the > start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. This gets > the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is > going to operate throughout the RPM range. > > There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is > in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as > new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play.? The carb > float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set > correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb > must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be > installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may indicate > that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or the > incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and > setting of ignition points. > The list goes on and on...... > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Leonard Berkowitz > > Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question > > Hi all > > Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my > BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to my > Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when you > lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that.? My dwell > angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles nicely. > Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator linkages. The > problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get what sounds > like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like it doesn?t > have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does that sound > like I am running too rich or too lean? > > Len Berkowitz > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 29 23:13:58 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 07:13:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Jensen Interceptor In-Reply-To: <621c3a14-5411-db18-e772-64df8463f8b5@comcast.net> References: <621c3a14-5411-db18-e772-64df8463f8b5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7aa09f3a-46ff-4659-efd9-5a894ca7b7fb@chello.nl> I do like the early Interceptor. It does share parts of the suspension with the big Healeys and the standard engine, although 4liter, is quite like the Healey's engine as well. Steel chassis, aluminium body. It was a mistake to have only build one with the Chrysler V8. I see these early Interceptors quite often at meetings. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-1-2021 om 05:20 schreef Bob Spidell: > This may be behind a paywall--if so, my apologies--but I had to pass > it on in case it isn't (or for NYT subscribers). > > I always liked this car: > > https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/28/business/classic-cars-jensen-interceptor.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jan 30 02:54:00 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 09:54:00 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Jensen Interceptor In-Reply-To: <621c3a14-5411-db18-e772-64df8463f8b5@comcast.net> References: <621c3a14-5411-db18-e772-64df8463f8b5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002201d6f6ed$d7149260$853db720$@alexarevel.plus.com> Lovely cars. I always wanted one but, even if I found one, I couldn't get it through the gap into my back yard and garage. And the cost.........! (That gap has saved me a lot of money over the years). But, see:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1n46p3JKjwE&t=1054s Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 30 January 2021 04:20 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Jensen Interceptor This may be behind a paywall--if so, my apologies--but I had to pass it on in case it isn't (or for NYT subscribers). I always liked this car: https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/28/business/classic-cars-jensen-interceptor. html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus. com From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jan 30 07:05:07 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 09:05:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <255c04a4-8848-11f1-4e2e-3c1af2fd860b@earthlink.net> Kees, SU pumps come with different delivery pressures: 3.8 and 2.7 psi.? I always thought that the big Healeys used the lower 2.7 psi.? But while I know the pump specification that should be fitted to my car (AUA 72), I've never run across a piece of SU literature that gives the delivery pressure for each pump specification.? Can you point me towards one? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/30/21 1:05 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > The SU AUF 301/303/305 fuel pump should deliver 15 Imperial > gallons/hour. Maximum pressure should be 3,8psi. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 29-1-2021 om 23:12 schreef Michael Oritt: >> If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery.? I >> can't remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to >> pump a gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I >> am wrong. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> >> >> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys >> > wrote: >> >> Len and Listers >> Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test >> the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so >> slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up.? >> What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what >> happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich >> condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the >> mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the >> start you usually assume you are in a lean condition.? This gets >> the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is >> going to operate throughout the RPM range. >> >> There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is >> in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as >> new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play.? The carb >> float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set >> correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb >> must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be >> installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may >> indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or >> the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and >> setting of ignition points. >> The list goes on and on...... >> P >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Leonard Berkowitz > > >> Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question >> >> Hi all >> >> Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my >> BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to >> my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when >> you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that.? My >> dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles >> nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator >> linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get >> what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like >> it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does >> that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? >> >> Len Berkowitz >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 30 10:40:38 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 18:40:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <255c04a4-8848-11f1-4e2e-3c1af2fd860b@earthlink.net> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <255c04a4-8848-11f1-4e2e-3c1af2fd860b@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Op 30-1-2021 om 15:05 schreef Bob Haskell: > Kees, > > SU pumps come with different delivery pressures: 3.8 and 2.7 psi. I > always thought that the big Healeys used the lower 2.7 psi.? But while > I know the pump specification that should be fitted to my car (AUA > 72), I've never run across a piece of SU literature that gives the > delivery pressure for each pump specification.? Can you point me > towards one? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 1/30/21 1:05 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> >> The SU AUF 301/303/305 fuel pump should deliver 15 Imperial >> gallons/hour. Maximum pressure should be 3,8psi. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 29-1-2021 om 23:12 schreef Michael Oritt: >>> If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery.? I >>> can't remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to >>> pump a gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I >>> am wrong. >>> >>> Best--Michael Oritt >>> >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys >>> > wrote: >>> >>> ??? Len and Listers >>> ??? Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test >>> ??? the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so >>> ??? slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. >>> ??? What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what >>> ??? happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich >>> ??? condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the >>> ??? mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the >>> ??? start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. This gets >>> ??? the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is >>> ??? going to operate throughout the RPM range. >>> >>> ??? There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is >>> ??? in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as >>> ??? new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb >>> ??? float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set >>> ??? correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb >>> ??? must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be >>> ??? installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may >>> ??? indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or >>> ??? the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and >>> ??? setting of ignition points. >>> ??? The list goes on and on...... >>> ??? P >>> >>> >>> ??? -----Original Message----- >>> ??? From: Leonard Berkowitz >> ??? > >>> ??? Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question >>> >>> ??? Hi all >>> >>> ??? Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my >>> ??? BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to >>> ??? my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when >>> ??? you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My >>> ??? dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles >>> ??? nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator >>> ??? linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get >>> ??? what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like >>> ??? it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does >>> ??? that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? >>> >>> ??? Len Berkowitz >>> >>> >>> ??? _______________________________________________ >>> ??? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> ??? >>> ??? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> ??? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> ??? >>> ??? http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> ??? Healeys at autox.team.net >>> ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> ??? >>> >>> ??? Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 30 10:43:27 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 18:43:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question In-Reply-To: <255c04a4-8848-11f1-4e2e-3c1af2fd860b@earthlink.net> References: <1753560953.193599.1611929637112@mail.yahoo.com> <255c04a4-8848-11f1-4e2e-3c1af2fd860b@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Forgot to mention, The A-H fuel pump replacement is Burlen AZX1308 which is 3,8psi. However most sellers sell AZX1307 which 2,7psi. This usually works OK and is advantageous as other cars use the 1307 as well, e.g. MGB. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-1-2021 om 15:05 schreef Bob Haskell: > Kees, > > SU pumps come with different delivery pressures: 3.8 and 2.7 psi. I > always thought that the big Healeys used the lower 2.7 psi.? But while > I know the pump specification that should be fitted to my car (AUA > 72), I've never run across a piece of SU literature that gives the > delivery pressure for each pump specification.? Can you point me > towards one? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 1/30/21 1:05 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> >> The SU AUF 301/303/305 fuel pump should deliver 15 Imperial >> gallons/hour. Maximum pressure should be 3,8psi. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 29-1-2021 om 23:12 schreef Michael Oritt: >>> If all else fail check your fuel pump for sufficient delivery.? I >>> can't remember for sure but believe a free-flowing SU is supposed to >>> pump a gallon in a minute, but I'm sure someone will correct me if I >>> am wrong. >>> >>> Best--Michael Oritt >>> >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 9:14 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys >>> > wrote: >>> >>> ??? Len and Listers >>> ??? Pushing the pin up to lift the piston is the start of the "test >>> ??? the mixture setting" exercise. You begin the push, ever so >>> ??? slightly,? and listen to the idling engine. The idle goes up. >>> ??? What do you do next? You continue to raise the pin? to see what >>> ??? happens. If the idle continues to rise you know you are in a rich >>> ??? condition. If the idle stops going up and starts to drop off the >>> ??? mixture is pretty close. If the idle does not increase from the >>> ??? start you usually assume you are in a lean condition. This gets >>> ??? the carb mixture close at idle which in theory means the carb is >>> ??? going to operate throughout the RPM range. >>> >>> ??? There is one other assumption here, that being that the carbs is >>> ??? in the same condition as new mounted on an engine operating as >>> ??? new. That is when allot of other stuff comes into play. The carb >>> ??? float bowl items, needle/seat and float level? must be set >>> ??? correctly. Float must not be leaking thus making it sink. Carb >>> ??? must have the correct main needle and jet and they have to be >>> ??? installed and adjusted correctly. Flutter at high RPM may >>> ??? indicate that the piston spring in the suction chamber is weak or >>> ??? the incorrect spring installed. Ignition timing and condition and >>> ??? setting of ignition points. >>> ??? The list goes on and on...... >>> ??? P >>> >>> >>> ??? -----Original Message----- >>> ??? From: Leonard Berkowitz >> ??? > >>> ??? Subject: [Healeys] Another backfiring question >>> >>> ??? Hi all >>> >>> ??? Just finished repairing and reinstalling the carburetors on my >>> ??? BJ7. I thought I had everything adjusted properly. According to >>> ??? my Haynes Manuel the engine speed should increase slightly when >>> ??? you lift the piston a very small amount. Mine does that. My >>> ??? dwell angle is where it needs to be and the car starts and idles >>> ??? nicely. Also sounds beautiful when I punch the accelerator >>> ??? linkages. The problem is that when I get it up to 60-70 mph I get >>> ??? what sounds like backfiring into my carburetors. Also sounds like >>> ??? it doesn?t have a whole lot left in the tank, so to speak. Does >>> ??? that sound like I am running too rich or too lean? >>> >>> ??? Len Berkowitz >>> >>> >>> ??? _______________________________________________ >>> ??? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> ??? >>> ??? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> ??? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> ??? >>> ??? http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> ??? Healeys at autox.team.net >>> ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> ??? >>> >>> ??? Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 13:20:24 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 15:20:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system Message-ID: After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my BN1. The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve takeoff. Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see without very close inspection. I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. Thoughts? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210130_151046.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 588602 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 30 15:41:20 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 14:41:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. Which PCV valve did you select? Bob On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my > BN1. > The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve > takeoff. > Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see > without very close inspection. > I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover > vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. > Thoughts? > > M > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 30 16:18:18 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 18:18:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I selected this PCV valve. Standard Motor Products V408 PCV Valve Mostly because it is designed for horizontal installation and has no plastic in it. M 1. [image: Standard Motor Products V408 PCV Valve] 2. - On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 5:46 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to > fab a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug > the valve cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on > my BJ8, which is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If > you leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a > genuine PCV system as air will be constantly circulated through the > crankcase and top end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented > to the CAB, for which I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in > front of the radiator. > > Which PCV valve did you select? > > Bob > > > > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my > > BN1. > > The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve > > takeoff. > > Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see > > without very close inspection. > > I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover > > vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. > > Thoughts? > > > > M > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 30 16:48:32 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 15:48:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake and don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that will accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom of the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at one of the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also the oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control the system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through one valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via the other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found the attached article by Tony Ball. http://mewagner.com/ Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. Which PCV valve did you select? Bob On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my > BN1. > The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve > takeoff. > Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see > without very close inspection. > I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover > vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. > Thoughts? > > M > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Tony-Ball-Positive-Crankcase-Ventilation.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 5623727 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 30 18:45:36 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2021 17:45:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> References: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> Message-ID: The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake and > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that will > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom of > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at one of > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also the > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control the > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through one > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via the > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. > > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? > > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found > the attached article by Tony Ball. > > http://mewagner.com/ > > Harold > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. > > Which PCV valve did you select? > > Bob > > > > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my >> BN1. >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve >> takeoff. >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see >> without very close inspection. >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. >> Thoughts? >> >> M >> > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 31 10:41:15 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 12:41:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> Message-ID: I have decided to cut some "plugs" out of a chainsaw foam air filter and insert them into the rocker cover hose. I'm thinking that flow in that hose will be the source of intake air into the engine. M On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 8:45 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: > The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil > filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a > tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter > than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. > > On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV > > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake > and > > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that > will > > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom > of > > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw > > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at > one of > > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection > > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also > the > > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control > the > > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the > > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through > one > > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via > the > > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. > > > > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? > > > > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found > > the attached article by Tony Ball. > > > > http://mewagner.com/ > > > > Harold > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > > Spidell > > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > > > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to > fab > > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the > valve > > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, > which > > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. > > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be > > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear > > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey > > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you > > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine > PCV > > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top > > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for > which > > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. > > > > Which PCV valve did you select? > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my > >> BN1. > >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve > >> takeoff. > >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see > >> without very close inspection. > >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover > >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. > >> Thoughts? > >> > >> M > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Jan 31 11:15:01 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 10:15:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> Message-ID: In my opinion providing a dedicated air intake and separating the streams is a step in right direction. This sketch below is what I am planning. One possible addition would be a simple air oil separator on the return line but I am hesitant to add too much strange looking hardware if it can be avoided. I would appreciate any feedback and comments. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 9:41 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system I have decided to cut some "plugs" out of a chainsaw foam air filter and insert them into the rocker cover hose. I'm thinking that flow in that hose will be the source of intake air into the engine. M On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 8:45 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake and > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that will > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom of > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at one of > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also the > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control the > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through one > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via the > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. > > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? > > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found > the attached article by Tony Ball. > > http://mewagner.com/ > > Harold > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. > > Which PCV valve did you select? > > Bob > > > > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my >> BN1. >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve >> takeoff. >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see >> without very close inspection. >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. >> Thoughts? >> >> M >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Possible PCV System.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 30348 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 31 12:08:35 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 19:08:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system Message-ID: <7648894d4a3ccad9284a984d14f04c3ebb15c410@webmail> >From what I recall from my Smog Class days (I had a smog license to repair systems), this is the basic "Type 3" system. To upgrade '50-'60s vehicles you punched a hole in the air cleaner (some oil bath), added a fitting and hose, and plugged the downpipe tube from the crankcase with a rubber plug. It would then pass early emission tests. This is basicly like the Healey system which was sans a PVC valve, but met early standards...not today, however. Multiple carbs gave the Healey an exemption in those days. The big problem with this system is engine wear. When things like rocker shafts or bushings wear, the oil gap is enlarged allowing geysers to form in the valve cover, and then the oil gets sucked out to the air intake and sent out the exhaust. Folks thought the rings or bearings had failed and started an engine rebuild, when only the rocker shaft was the issue. I tend to stick to originality, and just drive my stinky old Healey, which would never pass any standards nowadays. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Michael Salter", "Bob Spidell" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday January 31 2021 10:23:00AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In my opinion providing a dedicated air intake and separating the streams is a step in right direction. This sketch below is what I am planning. One possible addition would be a simple air oil separator on the return line but I am hesitant to add too much strange looking hardware if it can be avoided. I would appreciate any feedback and comments. Harold ------------------------- FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Michael Salter SENT: Sunday, January 31, 2021 9:41 AM TO: Bob Spidell CC: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system I have decided to cut some "plugs" out of a chainsaw foam air filter and insert them into the rocker cover hose. I'm thinking that flow in that hose will be the source of intake air into the engine. M On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 8:45 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake and > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that will > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom of > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at one of > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also the > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control the > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through one > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via the > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. > > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? > > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found > the attached article by Tony Ball. > > [1]http://mewagner.com/ [2] > > Harold > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. > > Which PCV valve did you select? > > Bob > > > > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my >> BN1. >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve >> takeoff. >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see >> without very close inspection. >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. >> Thoughts? >> >> M >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] [7]http://autox.team.net/archive [8] Healeys at autox.team.net [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] Unsubscribe/Manage: [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [12] Links: ------ [1] http://mewagner.com/ [2] http://mewagner.com/ [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Jan 31 12:16:12 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 14:16:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> Message-ID: <49961768-3AF9-40E7-9F89-C74809C116FE@rogers.com> This has made me realise that my PCV valve setup is missing the fresh air side of the equation. Seeing the improvement that I?ve noticed with my current arrangement, the other piece of the puzzle should lead to a very clean runner. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On Jan 31, 2021, at 1:15 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > > In my opinion providing a dedicated air intake and separating the streams is a step in right direction. This sketch below is what I am planning. One possible addition would be a simple air oil separator on the return line but I am hesitant to add too much strange looking hardware if it can be avoided. > > I would appreciate any feedback and comments. > > Harold > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter > Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 9:41 AM > To: Bob Spidell > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > I have decided to cut some "plugs" out of a chainsaw foam air filter and insert them into the rocker cover hose. I'm thinking that flow in that hose will be the source of intake air into the engine. > > M > >> On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 8:45 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: >> The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil >> filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a >> tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter >> than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. >> >> On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: >> > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV >> > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake and >> > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that will >> > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the bottom of >> > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to draw >> > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at one of >> > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection >> > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also the >> > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to control the >> > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the >> > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through one >> > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via the >> > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. >> > >> > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? >> > >> > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I found >> > the attached article by Tony Ball. >> > >> > http://mewagner.com/ >> > >> > Harold >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> > Spidell >> > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM >> > To: healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system >> > >> > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan to fab >> > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the valve >> > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, which >> > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. >> > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be >> > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear >> > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey >> > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If you >> > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine PCV >> > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and top >> > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for which >> > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. >> > >> > Which PCV valve did you select? >> > >> > Bob >> > >> > >> > >> > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my >> >> BN1. >> >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve >> >> takeoff. >> >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see >> >> without very close inspection. >> >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover >> >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 31 12:17:11 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 14:17:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system In-Reply-To: References: <6C3E66BADB9F4BE4B3768A4977039236@AllInOne> Message-ID: As far as I can figure out Harold, other than the "Dual Flow", your system is pretty well what I have constructed. I've read up a little on the dual flow valves and it seems that that would be of little advantage and a lot bigger than a simple type. Obviously it's important that the take off at the air cleaner needs to be getting "filtered" air which the 100 air filter does not. M On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 1:15 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > In my opinion providing a dedicated air intake and separating the streams > is a step in right direction. This sketch below is what I am planning. One > possible addition would be a simple air oil separator on the return line > but I am hesitant to add too much strange looking hardware if it can be > avoided. > > I would appreciate any feedback and comments. > > Harold > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Sunday, January 31, 2021 9:41 AM > *To:* Bob Spidell > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system > > I have decided to cut some "plugs" out of a chainsaw foam air filter and > insert them into the rocker cover hose. I'm thinking that flow in that hose > will be the source of intake air into the engine. > > M > > On Sat., Jan. 30, 2021, 8:45 p.m. Bob Spidell, > wrote: > >> The best place for a fresh air source would be a small filter on the oil >> filter cap. Obviously, not an easy thing to rig up. Or, you could put a >> tube on the backside of one of the carbs, but you'd want a better filter >> than the stock grasshopper-stoppers. >> >> On 1/30/2021 3:48 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: >> > I am also looking into a PCV system for my BT7 as well. Most of the PCV >> > systems I have seen on Healey's don't have a filtered fresh air intake >> and >> > don't have much ability to replace the blow by and other nasty's that >> will >> > accumulate in the bottom of the block. To have air changes in the >> bottom of >> > the block a filtered fresh air source is needed and slight vacuum to >> draw >> > out anything that accumulates. Ideally the fresh air would come in at >> one of >> > the block and the bad air leave at the other end. There is a connection >> > between the tappet section and the bottom of the block but this is also >> the >> > oil return. (A BN1 engine may be different) A PCV can be used to >> control the >> > system but if the air circulating bypasses most of the engine then the >> > system is less effective. On V8 engines the clean air comes in through >> one >> > valve cover, passes through the bottom of the block and then exists via >> the >> > other valve cover drawn by vacuum from the intake. >> > >> > Any good ideas where to locate a filter fresh air source? >> > >> > This website has excellent information on PCV valves and is where I >> found >> > the attached article by Tony Ball. >> > >> > http://mewagner.com/ >> > >> > Harold >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> > Spidell >> > Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 2:41 PM >> > To: healeys at autox.team.net >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system >> > >> > Looks clean, Michael. I am considering similar for my BN2 (but I plan >> to fab >> > a plate with an elbow to replace the road draft tube). If you plug the >> valve >> > cover vent, you'll have a 'system' similar to what I have on my BJ8, >> which >> > is an updated version of the original Norman Nock design. >> > This isn't really a PCV system, as the crankcase and valve cover will be >> > under continuous vacuum. I suspect some air is drawn in from the rear >> > 'seal,' which is not filtered but helps to alleviate the infamous Healey >> > bellhousing drip, and likely doesn't affect mixture all that much. If >> you >> > leave the vent open--I'd put an air filter on it--you'll have a genuine >> PCV >> > system as air will be constantly circulated through the crankcase and >> top >> > end. This is what I plan to do, but my 100M is vented to the CAB, for >> which >> > I have a large K&N filter on the intake duct in front of the radiator. >> > >> > Which PCV valve did you select? >> > >> > Bob >> > >> > >> > >> > On 1/30/2021 12:20 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> >> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my >> >> BN1. >> >> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve >> >> takeoff. >> >> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see >> >> without very close inspection. >> >> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover >> >> vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Possible PCV System.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 30348 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 31 16:48:17 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 15:48:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail> <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca> <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com> <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well. The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are): On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley > Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest > Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high performance" plugs > from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best of all they are only > 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time.? Does > anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2? > Mike MacLean > > On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > > > Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my > vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less > important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when > they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten > years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are very > cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four. > > I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford: > I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have > experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. > Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, but > the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was > defective. > Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on > the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last > things I did. > > Laurie Wilford > > Sent from my Galaxy > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN2Plugs.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 525571 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 31 17:43:31 2021 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 16:43:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover Message-ID: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com> I've an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration. I've removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used some Mother's Back to Black, but there's more that needs to be done. Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to its original semi-gloss black. Is painting it the only way? If so, how best to prep it? Other options? Thanks. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 31 23:31:59 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2021 22:31:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover In-Reply-To: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com> References: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <00b301d6f863$f2d56390$d8802ab0$@sbcglobal.net> Rub it with India ink followed with black shoe polish and a good buffing just as you would with leather shoes. John San Jose, CA '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 4:44 PM To: 'healeys' Cc: healybruce at roadrunner.com Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover I've an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration. I've removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used some Mother's Back to Black, but there's more that needs to be done. Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to its original semi-gloss black. Is painting it the only way? If so, how best to prep it? Other options? Thanks. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: