[Healeys] A90 Head Update
Alan Seigrist
healey.nut at gmail.com
Tue Feb 2 20:54:03 MST 2021
Hank -
Is the spray on sealant silicone, or is it a non hardening kind like
hylomar? I'm a little concerned to use this as it may make disassembly
difficult later if I have to strip the engine down again. What is your
experience?
Thanks,
Alan
On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
> Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time after
> the replacement of the head?
>
> Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the head,
> even if they did not go in order?
>
> A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about 80
> FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for that size
> stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is strictly
> adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments.
>
> Again, I sprayed both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating of
> Permatex copper seal.
> I used a Payen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, the good old
> days...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healey list"
> Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
>
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
> it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards... I've checked both the
> head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
> not need to go to the machinist. Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
> surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
> has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
> that I just removed. I discovered a few things:
>
> 1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
> thicker than the newer gasket that was put on. The old gasket that showed
> no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
> failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed. The old gasket is very
> nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
> thicker, etc., etc., Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
> circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
> 2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
> did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from
> the outside in.
> 3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
> places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
> don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
> those holes down. Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
> the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
> above. Let's see how she goes after I finish the job. Ultimately one
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
> well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > Got the head off. Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . some
>> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
>> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
>> > you jealous ... :D
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>>
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