From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Feb  1 04:25:41 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 06:25:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>

Bob,

Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.? But if you're looking for originality:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
>
> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
>
>
>
> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley 
>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the cheapest 
>> Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high performance" plugs 
>> from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best of all they are 
>> only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need two at a time.? 
>> Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works for the BN2?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs 
>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my 
>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less 
>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace when 
>> they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the last ten 
>> years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as they are 
>> very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
>>
>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also help.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have 
>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. 
>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, 
>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was 
>> defective.
>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and on 
>> the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the last 
>> things I did.
>>
>> Laurie Wilford
>>
>> Sent from my Galaxy
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb  1 08:15:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 07:15:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
 <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <764c8d84-aed9-1f84-01a6-16c4b4c28ae9@comcast.net>

Yikes! $100/ea for spark plugs?

Where would I get a fourth? The 'NA' must stand for 'Not Available' ;)



On 2/1/2021 3:25 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.? But if you're looking for 
> originality:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661 
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
>>
>> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
>>
>>
>>
>> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley 
>>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the 
>>> cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high 
>>> performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best 
>>> of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need 
>>> two at a time.? Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works 
>>> for the BN2?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs 
>>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my 
>>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less 
>>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace 
>>> when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the 
>>> last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as 
>>> they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
>>>
>>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also 
>>> help.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
>>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have 
>>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. 
>>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, 
>>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was 
>>> defective.
>>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and 
>>> on the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the 
>>> last things I did.
>>>
>>> Laurie Wilford
>>>
>>> Sent from my Galaxy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Feb  1 08:33:17 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 10:33:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <764c8d84-aed9-1f84-01a6-16c4b4c28ae9@comcast.net>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
 <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
 <764c8d84-aed9-1f84-01a6-16c4b4c28ae9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+NjECmOESbfbffLyTgNKdfLpUsqsQTLL_MpNDC+3kGtg@mail.gmail.com>

Just to future complicate the issue there are at least 4 types of NA8
Champion plugs.
M

On Mon., Feb. 1, 2021, 10:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Yikes! $100/ea for spark plugs?
>
> Where would I get a fourth? The 'NA' must stand for 'Not Available' ;)
>
>
>
> On 2/1/2021 3:25 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Bob,
> >
> > Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.  But if you're looking for
> > originality:
> >
> >
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> >> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
> >>
> >> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> >>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley
> >>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the
> >>> cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.  I tried "high
> >>> performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.  Best
> >>> of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need
> >>> two at a time.  Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works
> >>> for the BN2?
> >>> Mike MacLean
> >>>
> >>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs
> >>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my
> >>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less
> >>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace
> >>> when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the
> >>> last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as
> >>> they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
> >>>
> >>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also
> >>> help.
> >>>
> >>> Kees Oudesluijs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
> >>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have
> >>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years.
> >>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad,
> >>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was
> >>> defective.
> >>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and
> >>> on the highway.  Finally changing plugs was of course one of the
> >>> last things I did.
> >>>
> >>> Laurie Wilford
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my Galaxy
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb  1 08:51:50 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 07:51:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
 <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <849a2b6e-d87f-9e32-8d24-14d7c1589732@comcast.net>

Since we're on the topic--sorta, we now know what the 'official' plug 
recommendation was/is--what do the numbers mean? An N5C is a 'hotter' 
plug than an N3C, but what are the real world ramifications for, say, an 
old Healey 4-banger? As I mentioned, I have the N5C in my BN2, and they 
seem to work fine; presumably, they run hotter than the N3Cs, but what 
does that do for performance, etc.? I know hotter plugs are sometimes 
suggested for engines that burn a lot of oil, but do they cause the 
engine to run a bit hotter? What if I dropped an alloy head on my 100's 
engine, would I want to run a colder plug?

In aircraft piston engines that still run on heavily-leaded fuel, 
residual lead can foul plugs quickly; for problematic engines, a 'fine 
wire' plug is sometimes used (just like it sounds, these plugs have 
smaller center electrodes that are less likely to harbor unburned 
elemental lead).



On 2/1/2021 3:25 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.? But if you're looking for 
> originality:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661 
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
>>
>> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
>>
>>
>>
>> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley 
>>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the 
>>> cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high 
>>> performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best 
>>> of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need 
>>> two at a time.? Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works 
>>> for the BN2?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs 
>>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my 
>>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less 
>>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace 
>>> when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the 
>>> last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as 
>>> they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
>>>
>>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also 
>>> help.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
>>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have 
>>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. 
>>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, 
>>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was 
>>> defective.
>>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and 
>>> on the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the 
>>> last things I did.
>>>
>>> Laurie Wilford
>>>
>>> Sent from my Galaxy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>


From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Feb  1 09:17:41 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 16:17:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <849a2b6e-d87f-9e32-8d24-14d7c1589732@comcast.net>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
 <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
 <849a2b6e-d87f-9e32-8d24-14d7c1589732@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1586463639.1112609.1612196261311@mail.yahoo.com>

There is a lot of fudge room on the plugs. How many of our BN1 and 2's out there are still at factory specs. Our BN2 has nearly flat top pistons which bump the compression, yours may have electronic ignition or? a special coil, cam, carbs of something else. Most likely a large number of the cars are not even tuned to get a clean burn. The plugs give you a reading on what is going on inside the combustion chamber. Sometimes a factory recommendation is not the best choice.?That said the N5C plugs in our BN2 seem to work well.?Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 10:51 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs

Since we're on the topic--sorta, we now know what the 'official' plug 
recommendation was/is--what do the numbers mean? An N5C is a 'hotter' 
plug than an N3C, but what are the real world ramifications for, say, an 
old Healey 4-banger? As I mentioned, I have the N5C in my BN2, and they 
seem to work fine; presumably, they run hotter than the N3Cs, but what 
does that do for performance, etc.? I know hotter plugs are sometimes 
suggested for engines that burn a lot of oil, but do they cause the 
engine to run a bit hotter? What if I dropped an alloy head on my 100's 
engine, would I want to run a colder plug?

In aircraft piston engines that still run on heavily-leaded fuel, 
residual lead can foul plugs quickly; for problematic engines, a 'fine 
wire' plug is sometimes used (just like it sounds, these plugs have 
smaller center electrodes that are less likely to harbor unburned 
elemental lead).



On 2/1/2021 3:25 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.? But if you're looking for 
> originality:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661 
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
>>
>> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
>>
>>
>>
>> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley 
>>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the 
>>> cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs.? I tried "high 
>>> performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.? Best 
>>> of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need 
>>> two at a time.? Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works 
>>> for the BN2?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs 
>>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my 
>>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less 
>>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace 
>>> when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the 
>>> last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as 
>>> they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
>>>
>>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also 
>>> help.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
>>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have 
>>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years. 
>>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad, 
>>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was 
>>> defective.
>>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and 
>>> on the highway.? Finally changing plugs was of course one of the 
>>> last things I did.
>>>
>>> Laurie Wilford
>>>
>>> Sent from my Galaxy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From cgmoog at optonline.net  Mon Feb  1 10:27:04 2021
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 12:27:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <1586463639.1112609.1612196261311@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <7d812134e44133c4c12ca7e125d2686785dea430@webmail>
 <012a01d6f4aa$c40778d0$4c166a70$@sympatico.ca>
 <9943405.522632.1611761296181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <YTXPR0101MB22054AB0C2870355C8476EB3E6BB0@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <fb0000ac-1ff8-c659-5826-6261c7e22a46@chello.nl>
 <758603079.364533.1611782179380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <47bdbf71-4797-d096-924a-b7bb22f2ed70@comcast.net>
 <e9e7bd54-ebda-fe90-249a-48f10a18f734@earthlink.net>
 <849a2b6e-d87f-9e32-8d24-14d7c1589732@comcast.net>
 <1586463639.1112609.1612196261311@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3ccc9877-f1e7-e088-d8ae-273b2194bc34@optonline.net>

The hotter plug with soot up less (oil or rich fuel mixture).  If too 
hot it will cause pinging (pre-ignition) when run hard.  I think the 
newer plug designs have a wider operating range - hot enough to stay 
clean, cool enough not to ping.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-heat-range.html


On 2/1/2021 11:17 AM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
> There is a lot of fudge room on the plugs. How many of our BN1 and 2's 
> out there are still at factory specs. Our BN2 has nearly flat top 
> pistons which bump the compression, yours may have electronic ignition 
> or  a special coil, cam, carbs of something else. Most likely a large 
> number of the cars are not even tuned to get a clean burn. The plugs 
> give you a reading on what is going on inside the combustion chamber. 
> Sometimes a factory recommendation is not the best choice.
> That said the N5C plugs in our BN2 seem to work well.
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 10:51 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark Plugs
>
> Since we're on the topic--sorta, we now know what the 'official' plug
> recommendation was/is--what do the numbers mean? An N5C is a 'hotter'
> plug than an N3C, but what are the real world ramifications for, say, an
> old Healey 4-banger? As I mentioned, I have the N5C in my BN2, and they
> seem to work fine; presumably, they run hotter than the N3Cs, but what
> does that do for performance, etc.? I know hotter plugs are sometimes
> suggested for engines that burn a lot of oil, but do they cause the
> engine to run a bit hotter? What if I dropped an alloy head on my 100's
> engine, would I want to run a colder plug?
>
> In aircraft piston engines that still run on heavily-leaded fuel,
> residual lead can foul plugs quickly; for problematic engines, a 'fine
> wire' plug is sometimes used (just like it sounds, these plugs have
> smaller center electrodes that are less likely to harbor unburned
> elemental lead).
>
>
>
> On 2/1/2021 3:25 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Bob,
> >
> > Looks like NA8 were replaced by N5C.  But if you're looking for
> > originality:
> >
> > 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-NOS-Champion-NA8-Black-Body-Spark-Plugs-Austin-Healey-100-4-Jaguar-XK120-MG-TD/393094267661 
>
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 1/31/21 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> >> We are running Champion N3C in our BN2; they work well.
> >>
> >> The shop manual calls for Champion NA.8 (whatever those are):
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 1/27/2021 1:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> >>> Not to get too far off the subject about Healeys, but my Harley
> >>> Davidson (30s technology like our cars) runs the best on the
> >>> cheapest Ford Autolite 4164 copper plugs. I tried "high
> >>> performance" plugs from Harley Davidson and saw no difference.  Best
> >>> of all they are only 89 cents a piece when on sale and I only need
> >>> two at a time.  Does anyone know for sure which Champion plug works
> >>> for the BN2?
> >>> Mike MacLean
> >>>
> >>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 10:18:57 AM PST, Kees Oudesluijs
> >>> <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Never had much problems with trouble because of plugs on any of my
> >>> vehicles in the past 55 years. The only thing that is more or less
> >>> important is to gap them, clean them once in a while and replace
> >>> when they are to far gone. I do not think I even did that in the
> >>> last ten years or so. I have nearly always used Champion plugs as
> >>> they are very cheap: between ?8 and ?15 for four.
> >>>
> >>> I presume that electronic ignition (Pertronix in my case) may also
> >>> help.
> >>>
> >>> Kees Oudesluijs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Op 27-1-2021 om 18:27 schreef Laurie Wilford:
> >>> I continue to use only Champion plugs in my Healeys but have
> >>> experienced at least two episodes of plug problems over the years.
> >>> Based on the number of miles covered that is probably not too bad,
> >>> but the second time was with a newly installed set of plugs. One was
> >>> defective.
> >>> Both times the symptoms were intermittent missing both at idle and
> >>> on the highway.  Finally changing plugs was of course one of the
> >>> last things I did.
> >>>
> >>> Laurie Wilford
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my Galaxy
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Feb  1 16:53:31 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 18:53:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLmnzgqv4wwoUekiTKza2qacCPH7xGRv8fJ4JXoyG_44Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLmnzgqv4wwoUekiTKza2qacCPH7xGRv8fJ4JXoyG_44Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4V6gqKGstwiqN6WEpfwy_jLveufJ2ofuFWVt_jdfqEDA@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

I certainly can't give you an opinion more qualified than your own but will
be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 3:20 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my BN1.
> The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve
> takeoff.
> Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see
> without very close inspection.
> I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover vent or
> leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake.
> Thoughts?
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Feb  1 19:58:54 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 02:58:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Another Hole
References: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541@mail.yahoo.com>

Is this hole on the rear of my BN2 engine something that is supposed to be plugged?Mike MacLean
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Feb  1 20:20:29 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 19:20:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Another Hole
In-Reply-To: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5154767.1394049.1612234734541@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqN6_=xKttotywbS1+vpmVO+_s_tV96QempbXxpXqdFhYg@mail.gmail.com>

Stick a small screwdriver into the hole. If it bottoms out then it does not
need a plug.  If there is a cavity behind it (like a water jacket)  then
you may want to plug it.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 7:02 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Is this hole on the rear of my BN2 engine something that is supposed to be
> plugged?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  1 20:29:21 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2021 19:29:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Another Hole
In-Reply-To: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <5154767.1394049.1612234734541@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0F81D55A-D96C-4FBD-8271-370DBB72597A@sbcglobal.net>

No nothing goes there

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2021, at 7:06 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Is this hole on the rear of my BN2 engine something that is supposed to be plugged?
> Mike MacLean
> <InkedHole_LI.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Feb  1 20:45:10 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 03:45:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4V6gqKGstwiqN6WEpfwy_jLveufJ2ofuFWVt_jdfqEDA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLmnzgqv4wwoUekiTKza2qacCPH7xGRv8fJ4JXoyG_44Q@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAPTa0B4V6gqKGstwiqN6WEpfwy_jLveufJ2ofuFWVt_jdfqEDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213DB05882F3ACBF05B5601A5B59@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Harold, that is exactly what I have done. The PCV valve is located behind the exhaust manifold and pulls from the crankcase through a flange attached to the down tube location. It feeds into a fitting brazed to the bottom of the carb balance tube. It is invisible to casual observation. I have installed H6 carbs with 2-1/2 inch velocity stacks and covered them with a single piece Pipercross foam air filter. The vent to the valve cover comes out of the rear of the air cleaner between the carbs. I don?t know (or really care) if it has reduced any emissions, but I?m not getting oil into the air cleaner anymore.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 11:53 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 PCV system

Michael--

I certainly can't give you an opinion more qualified than your own but will be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 3:20 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
After months of deliberation I have constructed this PCV system for my BN1.
The original road draft tube has been plugged just below the PCV valve takeoff.
Of importance was that the system would be almost impossible to see without very close inspection.
I'm still trying to decide if I should plug the normal valve cover vent or leave it open to serve as the PCV system intake.
Thoughts?

M
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 00:23:34 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 15:23:34 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Got the head off.  Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 .  some evidence
of gas flow between 1&2 as well.  Last pic is of me standing in the engine
compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of you jealous ... :D

Cheers,

Alan
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb  2 02:22:41 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 09:22:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover
In-Reply-To: <00b301d6f863$f2d56390$d8802ab0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com>
 <00b301d6f863$f2d56390$d8802ab0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <776308710.1459187.1612257761619@mail.yahoo.com>

 When I restored the control box for the Bugeye I used Angelus Jet Black Leather Dye.? Then a light buffing on the polishing wheel.
Angelus Leather Dye Jet Black

| 
| 
| 
| $7.20 |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Angelus Leather Dye Jet Black

Angelus Leather Dyes are guaranteed to penetrate leather and form a lasting color that will not crack, peel, or ...
 |

 |

 |


Mike MacLean


    On Sunday, January 31, 2021, 10:36:38 PM PST, John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:  
 
 #yiv0487229697 #yiv0487229697 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0487229697 #yiv0487229697 p.yiv0487229697MsoNormal, #yiv0487229697 li.yiv0487229697MsoNormal, #yiv0487229697 div.yiv0487229697MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0487229697 a:link, #yiv0487229697 span.yiv0487229697MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0487229697 a:visited, #yiv0487229697 span.yiv0487229697MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0487229697 span.yiv0487229697EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0487229697 span.yiv0487229697EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv0487229697 .yiv0487229697MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0487229697 div.yiv0487229697WordSection1 {}#yiv0487229697 
Rub it with India ink followed with black shoe polish and a good buffing just as you would with leather shoes.

 ?

John

San Jose, CA

?62 BT7

 ?

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2021 4:44 PM
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: healybruce at roadrunner.com
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover

 ?

I?ve an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration.? I?ve removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used some Mother?s Back to Black, but there?s more that needs to be done.? Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to its original semi-gloss black.? Is painting it the only way?? If so, how best to prep it?? Other options?

 ?

Thanks.

 ?

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 ?
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 04:03:32 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 19:03:32 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover
In-Reply-To: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKpT1cb7tAx6nRNJU+XprfaLpzZDe-s64oHni9r7MydoA@mail.gmail.com>

If india ink doesn't do it, then try black shoe polish.  It should seep in
and give a permanent color.


On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 8:44 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> I?ve an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration.  I?ve
> removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used
> some Mother?s Back to Black, but there?s more that needs to be done.
> Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to
> its original semi-gloss black.  Is painting it the only way?  If so, how
> best to prep it?  Other options?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From rustyle at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 04:50:01 2021
From: rustyle at comcast.net (rustyle at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 06:50:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKpT1cb7tAx6nRNJU+XprfaLpzZDe-s64oHni9r7MydoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <16f201d6f833$43fc7f50$cbf57df0$@roadrunner.com>
 <CAFBXTkKpT1cb7tAx6nRNJU+XprfaLpzZDe-s64oHni9r7MydoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <032501d6f959$8a9674d0$9fc35e70$@comcast.net>

Try tire shine.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2021 6:04 AM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Cc: healybruce at roadrunner.com; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover

 

If india ink doesn't do it, then try black shoe polish.  It should seep in and give a permanent color.

 

 

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 8:44 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

I?ve an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration.  I?ve removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used some Mother?s Back to Black, but there?s more that needs to be done.  Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to its original semi-gloss black.  Is painting it the only way?  If so, how best to prep it?  Other options?

 

Thanks.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Tue Feb  2 09:05:35 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2021 16:05:35 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Another Hole
Message-ID: <9c0be7de-6a59-43aa-a773-a0fc94bdf632@me.com>

That is not the hole I was telling you about. When I built my engine, I did not cover that hole as it was not covered when I took it apart and I took an awl and found it bottomed out, so I didn't worry. The hole I was telling you about I can see is plugged on your engine. It's the plug above and a little to the left of the center freeze plug, below the head. That one is an oil access.?
???I am not an expert though and others on this list may have more and better information.
Steven Kingsbury?

On February 1, 2021 at 7:03 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:


Is this hole on the rear of my BN2 engine something that is supposed to be plugged?
Mike MacLean

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 09:35:49 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 08:35:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>

Alan,

What's your guess as to what caused this? It's not definitive--maybe 
it's just stuff that fell in--but it looks like you might have had some 
detonation; otherwise, non-flat surface(s), defective gasket, ... ?

Bob

On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> All -
>
> Got the head off.? Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . ?some 
> evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing 
> in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of 
> you jealous ... :D
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>


From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Feb  2 10:29:20 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 12:29:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Paging HealeyRick
Message-ID: <04e501d6f988$f11a27e0$d34e77a0$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

Is HealeyRick from bringatrailer on the list?  If so, please contact me.

 

Thanks,

Steve Byers

BJ8Healeys

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Feb  2 11:46:41 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 18:46:41 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
Message-ID: <001601d6f993$bff63220$3fe29660$@alexarevel.plus.com>

A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways
so I can do whatever underneath.

Preference would be for a 4 post lift but most of those wouldn't fit. And
height is an issue too. Some 2 post lifts would fit for sure. The car would
go through the ceiling before I could stand up underneath but I'd manage.

One worry is the practicality. I've never had the car up on a 2 post lift
anywhere and wonder if it's indeed possible with a Healey 3000. So little
clearance...the exhaust and the silencer etcetc. Anyone doing it?

Simon

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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 12:10:44 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 14:10:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <001601d6f993$bff63220$3fe29660$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001601d6f993$bff63220$3fe29660$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <FAC0280F-E9D7-43CF-861D-E227299C9CED@gmail.com>

Simon,

I have had a half-rise 2 - post MaxJax for 5 years and should have purchased it much sooner.
Easy to operate and you can get extensions that fit to the arms that raise the car up so the exhaust is not a problem.
The only issue is that I have to jack up the car (AH 3000) before positioning the arms under the frame.

Great from annual maintenance, working on tires, polishing, etc.

Larry



> On Feb 2, 2021, at 1:46 PM, <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> 
> A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways so I can do whatever underneath.
> Preference would be for a 4 post lift but most of those wouldn?t fit. And height is an issue too. Some 2 post lifts would fit for sure. The car would go through the ceiling before I could stand up underneath but I?d manage.
> One worry is the practicality. I?ve never had the car up on a 2 post lift anywhere and wonder if it?s indeed possible with a Healey 3000. So little clearance?..the exhaust and the silencer etcetc. Anyone doing it?
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
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From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 12:15:42 2021
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 14:15:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>

Simon wrote:
> A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways
> so I can do whatever underneath.

Since you won't be able to stand under a 2-post lift, maybe a quick-lift type lift would work for you? Some you drive on, some slide in from the side.  Here's a slide-in example, 3" collapsed height:

https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html <https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html>

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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 12:23:56 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 14:23:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CBE2421A-06F2-4B19-86F1-64FE88B46403@gmail.com>

A seat with wheels works, just buy a hard hat.

> On Feb 2, 2021, at 2:15 PM, Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Simon wrote:
>> A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways
>> so I can do whatever underneath.
> 
> Since you won't be able to stand under a 2-post lift, maybe a quick-lift type lift would work for you? Some you drive on, some slide in from the side.  Here's a slide-in example, 3" collapsed height:
> 
> https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html <https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> 

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  2 14:13:18 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 21:13:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <CBE2421A-06F2-4B19-86F1-64FE88B46403@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>,
 <CBE2421A-06F2-4B19-86F1-64FE88B46403@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB4276001EB433634B2F1F8E05BFB59@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I have a four poster but friends with low ceilings have Quick Jacks which work well. Easy to maneuver and plenty of room underneath on a creepy crawler

Regards,
Richard C


On Feb 2, 2021, at 13:32, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:

? A seat with wheels works, just buy a hard hat.

On Feb 2, 2021, at 2:15 PM, Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net<mailto:kentmclean at comcast.net>> wrote:

Simon wrote:
A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways
so I can do whatever underneath.

Since you won't be able to stand under a 2-post lift, maybe a quick-lift type lift would work for you? Some you drive on, some slide in from the side.  Here's a slide-in example, 3" collapsed height:

https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 19:01:39 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 10:01:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob -

This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...  I've checked both the
head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
not need to go to the machinist.  Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!

I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
that I just removed.  I discovered a few things:

   1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
   thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.  The old gasket that showed
   no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
   failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.  The old gasket is very
   nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
   thicker, etc., etc.,  Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
   circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
   2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time did
   not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from the
   outside in.
   3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
   places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
   don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
   those holes down.  Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
   the hole.

It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
above.  Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.  Ultimately one
thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.

Best,

Alan

> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > Got the head off.  Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 .  some
> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
> > you jealous ... :D
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
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>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Feb  2 19:46:38 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2021 02:46:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
Message-ID: <d2cda1e6bb4da07c3e5835e2fdc8dbb90ef33a8e@webmail>

Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time
after the replacement of the head?
Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the
head, even if they did not go in order?
A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about
80 FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for
that size stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is
strictly adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments.
Again, I sprayed both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating
of Permatex copper seal.I used a Payen gasket which was marked
top/front. Yea, the good old days...Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healey list"
Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

  Hi Bob - 
 This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can
believe it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards... I've
checked both the head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are
very nicely flat and do not need to go to the machinist. Both are flat
to within 1/1000 on the surface... which is less than the error on the
rectifier! 
 I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved
and it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this
newer gasket that I just removed. I discovered a few things:  

	* The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
thicker than the newer gasket that was put on. The old gasket that
showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new
gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed. The old
gasket is very nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper
compression rings are thicker, etc., etc., Clearly the older gasket
was made to work in circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't
always perfectly flat.
 	* I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working
from the outside in. 
 	* The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but
they don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have
already filed those holes down. Micheal Salter has told me to run a
countersink to debur the hole.

It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
above. Let's see how she goes after I finish the job. Ultimately one
thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not
know well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything. 
 Best,  
 Alan    On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
 > All -
 >
 > Got the head off. Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . some
 > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me
standing
 > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
 > you jealous ... :D
 >
 > Cheers,
 >
 > Alan
 >

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
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 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Feb  2 19:49:19 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 02:49:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <918689923.1850406.1612320559311@mail.yahoo.com>

AlanWas the head retorqued after installed and run in? I realize it has been a long time so that info may not be available.Perry?


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 9:01 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

Hi Bob -
This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...? I've checked both the head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do not need to go to the machinist.? Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket that?I just?removed.? I discovered a few things:   
   - The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.? The old gasket that showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.? The old gasket is very nicely?marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are thicker, etc., etc.,? Clearly the older gasket was made to work in circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
   - I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from the outside in.??
   - The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed those holes down.? Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur the hole.
It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues above.? Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.? Ultimately one thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
Best,
Alan
On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> All -
>
> Got the head off.? Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . ?some 
> evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing 
> in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of 
> you jealous ... :D
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 20:47:25 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 11:47:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <d2cda1e6bb4da07c3e5835e2fdc8dbb90ef33a8e@webmail>
References: <d2cda1e6bb4da07c3e5835e2fdc8dbb90ef33a8e@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+dHm7RXu=+Bo1LetiHB-rsqwU=3prooF=PQnv50U_UiQ@mail.gmail.com>

I don't recall what torque they used, but I personally did check the torque
settings after they assembled the engine and I had to refine the torque ...
I think I recall they had torqued varying amounts between 55 and 75 ft lbs,
I topped up the torque to all at 75 ft lbs... so I don't think torque
settings in of themselves was the problem.

On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time after
> the replacement of the head?
>
> Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the head,
> even if they did not go in order?
>
> A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about 80
> FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for that size
> stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is strictly
> adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments.
>
> Again, I sprayed  both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating of
> Permatex copper seal.
> I used a Payen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, the good old
> days...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healey list"
> Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
>
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
> it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...  I've checked both the
> head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
> not need to go to the machinist.  Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
> surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
> has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
> that I just removed.  I discovered a few things:
>
>    1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
>    thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.  The old gasket that showed
>    no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
>    failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.  The old gasket is very
>    nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
>    thicker, etc., etc.,  Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
>    circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
>    2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
>    did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from
>    the outside in.
>    3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
>    places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
>    don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
>    those holes down.  Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
>    the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
> above.  Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.  Ultimately one
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
> well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > Got the head off.  Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 .  some
>> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
>> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
>> > you jealous ... :D
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 20:47:55 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 11:47:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <918689923.1850406.1612320559311@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>
 <918689923.1850406.1612320559311@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKkykNe_A0-ax+BGFKQKYXWvf-YCWm5Arqr2NV+Nhtc6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Perry -

Yes, I retorqued it myself after a couple thousand miles.

Best,

Alan

On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:49 AM <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Alan
> Was the head retorqued after installed and run in? I realize it has been a
> long time so that info may not be available.
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 9:01 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
>
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
> it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...  I've checked both the
> head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
> not need to go to the machinist.  Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
> surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
> has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
> that I just removed.  I discovered a few things:
>
>    1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
>    thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.  The old gasket that showed
>    no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
>    failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.  The old gasket is very
>    nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
>    thicker, etc., etc.,  Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
>    circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
>    2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
>    did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from
>    the outside in.
>    3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
>    places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
>    don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
>    those holes down.  Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
>    the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
> above.  Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.  Ultimately one
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
> well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > Got the head off.  Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 .  some
> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
> > you jealous ... :D
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 20:54:03 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 11:54:03 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <d2cda1e6bb4da07c3e5835e2fdc8dbb90ef33a8e@webmail>
References: <d2cda1e6bb4da07c3e5835e2fdc8dbb90ef33a8e@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+-ELHRnPx6i5zdOPC8ZFFauk+Y9wpdeQvemu5uK=o0EQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hank -

Is the spray on sealant silicone, or is it a non hardening kind like
hylomar?  I'm a little concerned to use this as it may make disassembly
difficult later if I have to strip the engine down again.  What is your
experience?

Thanks,

Alan

On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time after
> the replacement of the head?
>
> Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the head,
> even if they did not go in order?
>
> A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about 80
> FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for that size
> stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is strictly
> adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments.
>
> Again, I sprayed  both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating of
> Permatex copper seal.
> I used a Payen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, the good old
> days...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healey list"
> Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
>
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
> it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...  I've checked both the
> head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
> not need to go to the machinist.  Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
> surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
> has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
> that I just removed.  I discovered a few things:
>
>    1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
>    thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.  The old gasket that showed
>    no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
>    failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.  The old gasket is very
>    nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
>    thicker, etc., etc.,  Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
>    circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
>    2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
>    did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from
>    the outside in.
>    3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
>    places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
>    don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
>    those holes down.  Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
>    the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
> above.  Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.  Ultimately one
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
> well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > Got the head off.  Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 .  some
>> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
>> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
>> > you jealous ... :D
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb  2 21:48:12 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 20:48:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+h9B6VVmydsF05L_tUgV9C5awLyAt2dAP+iM1SFMnhRg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d55a6eda-b340-ec5c-7917-9fedd2dc0b54@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTk+GxEC9aq=6My8Jj1BkJ-eTfKqcCJOvBFjLLKsCcdn1bA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <265ce579-fb86-9dff-88f6-19fad1dfca47@comcast.net>

Thanks for the update, Alan. Good Luck!
Bob

On 2/2/2021 6:01 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can 
> believe it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards...? I've 
> checked both the head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are 
> very nicely flat and do not need to go to the machinist.? Both are 
> flat to within 1/1000 on the surface... which is less than the error 
> on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and 
> it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this 
> newer gasket that?I just?removed.? I discovered a few things:
>
>  1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
>     thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.? The old gasket
>     that showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the
>     new gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed.? The
>     old gasket is very nicely?marked as to orientation, directions,
>     copper compression rings are thicker, etc., etc.,? Clearly the
>     older gasket was made to work in circumstances where the mating
>     surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
>  2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
>     did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly
>     working from the outside in.
>  3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
>     places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly,
>     but they don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I
>     have already filed those holes down.? Micheal Salter has told me
>     to run a countersink to debur the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues 
> above.? Let's see how she goes after I finish the job.? Ultimately one 
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not 
> know well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>     On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>     > All -
>     >
>     > Got the head off.? Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . ?some
>     > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me
>     standing
>     > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
>     > you jealous ... :D
>     >
>     > Cheers,
>     >
>     > Alan
>     >
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 22:24:24 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 21:24:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>

I use a similar hoist. Homedepot online sells them. So great to have the
car easily off the ground about 2'

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 11:16 AM Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net> wrote:

> Simon wrote:
>
> A long term plan is to purchase some means of hoisting the Healey up a ways
> so I can do whatever underneath.
>
>
> Since you won't be able to stand under a 2-post lift, maybe a quick-lift
> type lift would work for you? Some you drive on, some slide in from the
> side.  Here's a slide-in example, 3" collapsed height:
>
> https://www.eastwood.com/quickjack-7000lb-capacity-vehicle-lift-110v.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb  2 22:28:37 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 05:28:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone tell me what size thread is used to bolt the cold air box to the HS6 carbs on my BN2?? I tried 5/16" UNF and BSF.? Neither fit.? They both start to thread in, but stop after less than a turn.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb  2 22:49:40 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 05:49:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>

I was lucky enough to source the 3500 pound Quick Jack lifts.? It raises the car high enough to comfortably slide underneath on a creeper,? but most of the time I just lay a movers blanket under the car and crawl underneath.? Even thus 3500 pound lift is good for any car that I have.? Quick jack even has a retrofit kit to use the lifts to raise my Harley Davidson high enough that I can do fluid changes and other work sitting on a mechanics seat.? Having a two car garage that houses two British cars and a motorcycle the quick Jack's are nice because you can hang the vertical against the wall out of the way.? Quick Jack offers hangers just for this reason.? My sonbwas here yesterday servicing his girlfriend's Honda Civic on the Quick Jack.? It gets used.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 9:34 PM, i erbs<eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Feb  2 22:50:40 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2021 21:50:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_oPQEHDZbj_-bFmv7=AiopwvrGLLrp521AhaOJPX_ouw@mail.gmail.com>

Mine is a 3500lb lift

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Feb 2, 2021, 9:49 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I was lucky enough to source the 3500 pound Quick Jack lifts.  It raises
> the car high enough to comfortably slide underneath on a creeper,  but most
> of the time I just lay a movers blanket under the car and crawl
> underneath.  Even thus 3500 pound lift is good for any car that I have.
> Quick jack even has a retrofit kit to use the lifts to raise my Harley
> Davidson high enough that I can do fluid changes and other work sitting on
> a mechanics seat.  Having a two car garage that houses two British cars and
> a motorcycle the quick Jack's are nice because you can hang the vertical
> against the wall out of the way.  Quick Jack offers hangers just for this
> reason.  My sonbwas here yesterday servicing his girlfriend's Honda Civic
> on the Quick Jack.  It gets used.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 9:34 PM, i erbs
> <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Wed Feb  3 04:49:04 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 11:49:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>

Micheal

If the airbox is not an original and aftermarket then the thread could be
metric.

On Wed, 3 Feb 2021 at 05:35, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Can someone tell me what size thread is used to bolt the cold air box to
> the HS6 carbs on my BN2?  I tried 5/16" UNF and BSF.  Neither fit.  They
> both start to thread in, but stop after less than a turn.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 06:57:28 2021
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 08:57:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <e951acfa-6331-949b-f03b-db971600ae22@comcast.net>

This kind of lift is fine as a substitute for jack stands, but as most 
Austin-Healey and vintage British car owners are getting to the point in 
life where getting down and back up from a creeper is no longer easy, a 
lift that will bring the car to a minimum height where a mechanics seat 
can roll under up to a height where one can stand under it would be much 
more helpful.

I believe that Simon's original request was a lift that can be used in a 
garage that does not have an over abundance of ceiling height.? The 
Quick Jack meets that, but doesn't get the car high enough.

Does anyone have experience with a mid range two or four post lift?

Charlie

On 2/3/2021 12:49 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I was lucky enough to source the 3500 pound Quick Jack lifts.? It 
> raises the car high enough to comfortably slide underneath on a 
> creeper,? but most of the time I just lay a movers blanket under the 
> car and crawl underneath.? Even thus 3500 pound lift is good for any 
> car that I have.? Quick jack even has a retrofit kit to use the lifts 
> to raise my Harley Davidson high enough that I can do fluid changes 
> and other work sitting on a mechanics seat. Having a two car garage 
> that houses two British cars and a motorcycle the quick Jack's are 
> nice because you can hang the vertical against the wall out of the 
> way.? Quick Jack offers hangers just for this reason.? My sonbwas here 
> yesterday servicing his girlfriend's Honda Civic on the Quick Jack.? 
> It gets used.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>     On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 9:34 PM, i erbs
>     <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
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>
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From chucknsueo at aol.com  Wed Feb  3 07:34:03 2021
From: chucknsueo at aol.com (Aol Mail)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 14:34:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 2 post lift
In-Reply-To: <e951acfa-6331-949b-f03b-db971600ae22@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.5.1612292401.19553.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <88FD981C-5F4E-4046-8891-2CBC93989834@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8_ALrQipKt=BWLJYQixTROe7eqmWcqzC3tm=a0i6RrOFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1342025450.1903669.1612331380887@mail.yahoo.com>
 <e951acfa-6331-949b-f03b-db971600ae22@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1948772459.1992263.1612362843045@mail.yahoo.com>

Charlie,
I have a Direct Lift 4-post lift and my garage has a 7' door and 9' ceilings.? It can certainly get my Healey up high enough so that I can work underneath with a rolling mechanic's stool, or even kneeling.? I can't stand under it, but I haven't found a job under the car that it didn't make better.? Exhaust system work is MUCH better when you can sit down while working.
Chuck OttBJ8, AN9


-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Feb 3, 2021 8:57 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 post lift

 This kind of lift is fine as a substitute for jack stands, but as most Austin-Healey and vintage British car owners are getting to the point in life where getting down and back up from a creeper is no longer easy, a lift that will bring the car to a minimum height where a mechanics seat can roll under up to a height where one can stand under it would be much more helpful. I believe that Simon's original request was a lift that can be used in a garage that does not have an over abundance of ceiling height.? The Quick Jack meets that, but doesn't get the car high enough.
  Does anyone have experience with a mid range two or four post lift? Charlie
  On 2/3/2021 12:49 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
  
 
 I was lucky enough to source the 3500 pound Quick Jack lifts.? It raises the car high enough to comfortably slide underneath on a creeper,? but most of the time I just lay a movers blanket under the car and crawl underneath.? Even thus 3500 pound lift is good for any car that I have.? Quick jack even has a retrofit kit to use the lifts to raise my Harley Davidson high enough that I can do fluid changes and other work sitting on a mechanics seat.? Having a two car garage that houses two British cars and a motorcycle the quick Jack's are nice because you can hang the vertical against the wall out of the way.? Quick Jack offers hangers just for this reason.? My sonbwas here yesterday servicing his girlfriend's Honda Civic on the Quick Jack.? It gets used. Mike MacLean
 
 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Feb 2, 2021 at 9:34 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:   _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
 
  
  
  
_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net _______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 08:13:02 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 07:13:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7ba59141-b17d-5e62-8f61-4bfa73c914d7@comcast.net>

Side note: David Nock once showed me an 'original' 100M CAB. It was 
fab'd--not particularly well--out of sheetmetal and fastened with 
rivets. Anyone know when the fancy, cast(?) aluminum ones were added?

We have an aftermarket one, and I don't remember any issue finding bolts 
to fit. I'll look today to see if I can figure out what we used.

Bob

On 2/3/2021 3:49 AM, john harper wrote:
> Micheal
>
> If the airbox is not an original and aftermarket then the thread could 
> be metric.
>
> On Wed, 3 Feb 2021 at 05:35, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net 
> <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>
>     Can someone tell me what size thread is used to bolt the cold air
>     box to the HS6 carbs on my BN2?? I tried 5/16" UNF and BSF.
>     Neither fit.? They both start to thread in, but stop after less
>     than a turn.
>     Mike MacLean
>

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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Feb  3 08:38:30 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 15:38:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 remote oil filter & oil cooler
References: <1894446974.1586386.1612366710743.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1894446974.1586386.1612366710743@mail.yahoo.com>

I am planning on installing a remote oil filter adapter & a remote oil cooler on my 100. The side of the block has?2 oil passage holes, one above the other. Which is the discharge hole & which is the return hole? A related question: Is the normal oil flow from the block to the remote filter to the oil cooler & back to the block?Gary Hodson
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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Feb  3 08:40:17 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 10:40:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1828471696.15511193.1612366817501.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I believe that mine were M8 1.25. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2021 11:28:37 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box 

Can someone tell me what size thread is used to bolt the cold air box to the HS6 carbs on my BN2? I tried 5/16" UNF and BSF. Neither fit. They both start to thread in, but stop after less than a turn. 
Mike MacLean 

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb  3 10:26:45 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2021 17:26:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
Message-ID: <76b8bfa5ea5753862c9039eb4ec769c45cd7ed8f@webmail>

Alan-did not get another description from Permatex other than this
which, if true, addresses your concerns:
Prev Product

PERMATEX? ULTRA RUBBER GASKET SEALANT & DRESSING

US PART NUMBER: 80697
Canada Part Number: 58985

PERMATEX? COPPER SPRAY-A-GASKET? HI-TEMP SEALANT

	Category: Gasket Sealants [1]

	Fast-drying, metallic copper sealant helps dissipate heat, prevents
gasket burnout and improves heat transfer. Fills minor surface
irregularities. Seals instantly. Fills hot spots and surface
imperfections. Temperature range -50?F to 500?F (-45?C to 260?C);
resists all types of automotive fluids, especially gasoline. Level 3

	 Buy Online [2]

	I did have to remove a head for another reason, which had this
coating, and it was not a problem. I guess time and mileage will tell
how effective this product is. So far, I have been pleased to not have
any issues with installed heads. Can't stress more strongly how
overheating is the death knell for these engines. Hank

	----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

	From: "Alan Seigrist"----------To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: "Bob Spidell", "Healey list"
Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 7:54:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

 Hank - 
 Is the spray on sealant silicone, or is it a non hardening kind like
hylomar? I'm a little concerned to use this as it may make disassembly
difficult later if I have to strip the engine down again. What is your
experience? 
 Thanks, 
 Alan  
 On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM  wrote:
  Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time
after the replacement of the head? 
 Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the
head, even if they did not go in order? 
 A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about
80 FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for
that size stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is
strictly adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments. 
 Again, I sprayed both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating
of Permatex copper seal. I used a Payen gasket which was marked
top/front. Yea, the good old days...Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Alan Seigrist"
 To: "Bob Spidell"
 Cc: "Healey list"
 Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

 Hi Bob - 
 This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can
believe it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards... I've
checked both the head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are
very nicely flat and do not need to go to the machinist. Both are flat
to within 1/1000 on the surface... which is less than the error on the
rectifier! 
 I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved
and it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this
newer gasket that I just removed. I discovered a few things:  

	* The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
thicker than the newer gasket that was put on. The old gasket that
showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new
gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed. The old
gasket is very nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper
compression rings are thicker, etc., etc., Clearly the older gasket
was made to work in circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't
always perfectly flat.
 	* I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working
from the outside in. 
 	* The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but
they don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have
already filed those holes down. Micheal Salter has told me to run a
countersink to debur the hole.

It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
above. Let's see how she goes after I finish the job. Ultimately one
thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not
know well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything. 
 Best,  
 Alan    On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
 > All -
 >
 > Got the head off. Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . some
 > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me
standing
 > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
 > you jealous ... :D
 >
 > Cheers,
 >
 > Alan
 >

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 Support Team.Net  [3] [4]http://www.team.net/donate.html [5]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

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Links:
------
[1]
https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/gasket-sealants/
[2]
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/#buynow
[3] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb  3 11:44:34 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 18:44:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
In-Reply-To: <76b8bfa5ea5753862c9039eb4ec769c45cd7ed8f@webmail>
References: <76b8bfa5ea5753862c9039eb4ec769c45cd7ed8f@webmail>
Message-ID: <51718712.2132577.1612377874941@mail.yahoo.com>

 
This is what I used on my BN2 head gasket.? Licensed by Rolls Royce.
Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 3, 2021, 9:27:07 AM PST, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 Alan-did not get another description from Permatex other than this which, if true, addresses your concerns:
Prev Product
Permatex??Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant & Dressing
US Part Number: 80697
Canada Part Number: 58985
Permatex??Copper Spray-A-Gasket??Hi-Temp Sealant


Category:?Gasket Sealants
Fast-drying, metallic copper sealant helps dissipate heat, prevents gasket burnout and improves heat transfer. Fills minor surface irregularities. Seals instantly. Fills hot spots and surface imperfections. Temperature range -50?F to 500?F (-45?C to 260?C); resists all types of automotive fluids, especially gasoline. Level 3

?Buy Online


I did have to remove a head for another reason, which had this coating, and it was not a problem.? I guess time and mileage will tell how effective this product is. So far, I have been pleased to not have any issues with installed heads.? Can't stress more strongly how overheating is the death knell for these engines. Hank

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Alan Seigrist"----------
 To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: "Bob Spidell", "Healey list"
Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 7:54:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

Hank -
Is the spray on sealant silicone, or is it a non hardeningkind like hylomar?? I'm a little concerned to use this as itmay make disassembly difficult later if I have to strip the enginedown again.? What is your experience?
Thanks,
Alan
On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM<gradea1 at charter.net>wrote:

Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at anytime after the replacement of the head?
Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used totighten the head, even if they did not go in order?
A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decidedon about 80 FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is aspec for that size stud and nut. The tightening order in theworkshop manual is strictly adhered to, and the torque is broughtup in 1/3 increments.
Again, I sprayed? both sides of my copper gasket with alight coating of Permatex copper seal.I used a Payen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, thegood old days...Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Alan Seigrist"
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healey list"
Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update

Hi Bob -
This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if youcan believe it, but the car sat for about 10 yearsafterwards...? I've checked both the head and deck with arectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do not need togo to the machinist.? Both are flat to within 1/1000 on thesurface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which Isaved and it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders comparedto this newer gasket that?I just?removed.? Idiscovered a few things:   
   - The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, andis thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.? The oldgasket that showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after beinginstalled, the new gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after beinginstalled.? The old gasket is very nicely?marked as toorientation, directions, copper compression rings are thicker,etc., etc.,? Clearly the older gasket was made to work incircumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectlyflat.
   - I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head lasttime did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possiblyworking from the outside in.??
   - The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit incouple places and may have caused the head to deflect a little,possibly, but they don't seem to have been enough to make adifference... I have already filed those holes down.? MichealSalter has told me to run a countersink to debur the hole.
It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all threeissues above.? Let's see how she goes after I finish thejob.? Ultimately one thing I learned is I cannot anymore relyon mechanics that I do not know well to do work on my car... I endup having to redo everything.
Best,
Alan
On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> All -
>
> Got the head off.? Sure enough the gasket blew between3&4 . ?some
> evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is ofme standing
> in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to makeall of
> you jealous ... :D
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Feb  3 16:33:30 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 10:33:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <7ba59141-b17d-5e62-8f61-4bfa73c914d7@comcast.net>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7ba59141-b17d-5e62-8f61-4bfa73c914d7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00e501d6fa84$fb9cc270$f2d64750$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

The cold air box wasn?t first used by the Donald Healey Motor Company with the first BN1s fitted with the Le Mans kit.

 

They were being fitted to the Warwick built Healeys as early as 1946. Here is a photo of one fitted to our 1948 Healey Duncan Sports Saloon not long after it arrived in my garage. The entry for the air is two 1 ? inch tubes that are at the bottom pointing to the ground. The exhaust is on the other side of the engine.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, 4 February 2021 2:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Air Box

 

Side note: David Nock once showed me an 'original' 100M CAB. It was fab'd--not particularly well--out of sheetmetal and fastened with rivets. Anyone know when the fancy, cast(?) aluminum ones were added?

We have an aftermarket one, and I don't remember any issue finding bolts to fit. I'll look today to see if I can figure out what we used.

Bob

On 2/3/2021 3:49 AM, john harper wrote:

Micheal 

 

If the airbox is not an original and aftermarket then the thread could be metric.

 

On Wed, 3 Feb 2021 at 05:35, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

Can someone tell me what size thread is used to bolt the cold air box to the HS6 carbs on my BN2?  I tried 5/16" UNF and BSF.  Neither fit.  They both start to thread in, but stop after less than a turn. 

Mike MacLean

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb  3 20:09:27 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 19:09:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <00e501d6fa84$fb9cc270$f2d64750$@tpg.com.au>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7ba59141-b17d-5e62-8f61-4bfa73c914d7@comcast.net>
 <00e501d6fa84$fb9cc270$f2d64750$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <089011ba-39a0-3472-027b-3fae3ee393a2@comcast.net>

Well, I know why I couldn't remember what bolts I used to mount my CAB: 
It came with studs; appear to be 5/16" fine.


On 2/3/2021 3:33 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> The cold air box wasn?t first used by the Donald Healey Motor Company 
> with the first BN1s fitted with the Le Mans kit.
>
> They were being fitted to the Warwick built Healeys as early as 1946. 
> Here is a photo of one fitted to our 1948 Healey Duncan Sports Saloon 
> not long after it arrived in my garage. The entry for the air is two 1 
> ? inch tubes that are at the bottom pointing to the ground. The 
> exhaust is on the other side of the engine.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Thursday, 4 February 2021 2:13 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
>
> Side note: David Nock once showed me an 'original' 100M CAB. It was 
> fab'd--not particularly well--out of sheetmetal and fastened with 
> rivets. Anyone know when the fancy, cast(?) aluminum ones were added?
>
> We have an aftermarket one, and I don't remember any issue finding 
> bolts to fit. I'll look today to see if I can figure out what we used.
>
> Bob
>
>

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Feb  4 01:37:18 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 08:37:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
In-Reply-To: <089011ba-39a0-3472-027b-3fae3ee393a2@comcast.net>
References: <245629487.1878608.1612330117268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <245629487.1878608.1612330117268@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLXtBqwG6UymBLaAPUkgrdP7ikdEqY2NP52-kh6eUBf1pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <7ba59141-b17d-5e62-8f61-4bfa73c914d7@comcast.net>
 <00e501d6fa84$fb9cc270$f2d64750$@tpg.com.au>
 <089011ba-39a0-3472-027b-3fae3ee393a2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <296841068.2369176.1612427838146@mail.yahoo.com>

I went to Home Depot today and bought four metric M8 - 1.25 X 30mm bolts.? They easily screwed right into the threaded holes in the cold air box.? So, now I can ask other Healey people where are the only metric fasteners on my BN2?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  
On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 7:12 PM, Bob Spidell<bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Feb  4 11:08:57 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2021 18:08:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Box
Message-ID: <5a64a82890df629cae01c244a32f96b345ba26f2@webmail>

Michael-there are NO Metrics on an original 100 EXCEPT if you bought
new items made today in China and Japan or India...like bumpers, wheel
cylinders, etc.
Some metric wrenches fit BSF and BSW bolts but they would be marked.
Metric bolts would have the "M8" like designation, or studs that say
nothing. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday February 4 2021 1:16:45AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Air Box

   I went to Home Depot today and bought four metric M8 - 1.25 X 30mm
bolts. They easily screwed right into the threaded holes in the cold
air box. So, now I can ask other Healey people where are the only
metric fasteners on my BN2?  Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1] 
        On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 7:12 PM, Bob Spidell  wrote:   
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Feb  4 18:00:07 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 20:00:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>

I told her to be careful and wear something warm with the snow out there....I don?t know why she just doesn?t hear me but I do know she loves that little pink car. 
Have a good one
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From llennep at verizon.net  Thu Feb  4 19:38:55 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 02:38:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
In-Reply-To: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>
 <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
Message-ID: <394345701.2750872.1612492735041@mail.yahoo.com>

HaHa. Good one Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 4, 2021 8:00 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter

I told her to be careful and wear something warm with the snow out there....I don?t know why she just doesn?t hear me but I do know she loves that little pink car. 
Have a good one
Perry



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Feb  4 23:02:32 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2021 22:02:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>

In 1980 I was in England and went to a Healey parts supplier who told me
they bought surplus parts and wooden bucks to make body parts.
Am I confused to its location? I thought it was AH Spares. I know I sent my
folks there to bring me back an oil pump in I think 81.
So have I had  hallucination or is my memory clouded?
Thanks all.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Fri Feb  5 02:41:28 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 09:41:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <30a79ea0-1bef-38c5-b8ce-e42a3768799b@summaventures.com>

Ira,

sounds to me like it was AH spares. Look here at the history page:

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/information/about-us.aspx?gclid=eaiaiqobchmivuwap7ns7givh7ttch2jsgkreaayasadegl-xpd_bwe

Peter

On 05/02/2021 06:02, i erbs wrote:
> In 1980 I was in England and went to a Healey parts supplier who told me
> they bought surplus parts and wooden bucks to make body parts.
> Am I confused to its location? I thought it was AH Spares. I know I sent
> my folks there to bring me back an oil pump in I think 81.
> So have I had? hallucination or is my memory clouded?
> Thanks all.
> 
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Fri Feb  5 03:52:37 2021
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 05:52:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
In-Reply-To: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>,
 <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4BF94491-47B6-4EF7-AE1F-ACDA62C73041@hxcore.ol>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Feb  5 05:55:32 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 07:55:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon
In-Reply-To: <30a79ea0-1bef-38c5-b8ce-e42a3768799b@summaventures.com>
References: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <30a79ea0-1bef-38c5-b8ce-e42a3768799b@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+VAc3kpK7QEfq0b_Mu8LV6=obyvVahfcLGeEQA_eyJxg@mail.gmail.com>

Wimbledon was Southern Carburettors. Now SC Parts in Crewley.
They kept the carburetor division going for several years after moving the
Healey parts to Crawley.
Now owned by Limora of Germany.

M

On Fri., Feb. 5, 2021, 4:45 a.m. Peter Dzwig, <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
wrote:

> Ira,
>
> sounds to me like it was AH spares. Look here at the history page:
>
>
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/information/about-us.aspx?gclid=eaiaiqobchmivuwap7ns7givh7ttch2jsgkreaayasadegl-xpd_bwe
>
> Peter
>
> On 05/02/2021 06:02, i erbs wrote:
> > In 1980 I was in England and went to a Healey parts supplier who told me
> > they bought surplus parts and wooden bucks to make body parts.
> > Am I confused to its location? I thought it was AH Spares. I know I sent
> > my folks there to bring me back an oil pump in I think 81.
> > So have I had  hallucination or is my memory clouded?
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > 1959 AH 100-6
> > 1967 MGB
> > Milwaukie, OR
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> >
>
> --
>
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Feb  5 07:34:44 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 14:34:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
In-Reply-To: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>
 <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1134587886.2283478.1612535684315@mail.yahoo.com>

Perry,That is very clever & well staged. Those snowy mountainous roads look treacherous.
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Feb 4, 2021 7:00 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter

I told her to be careful and wear something warm with the snow out there....I don?t know why she just doesn?t hear me but I do know she loves that little pink car. 
Have a good one
Perry



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Feb  5 07:55:24 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 06:55:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-LrSKxmxcCdOLXZHD2bSMdTOJp+5GHGj2ZiJTxNntDrA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks folks
It was Southern Carbs
Appreciate the memory jog

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Thu, Feb 4, 2021, 10:02 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> In 1980 I was in England and went to a Healey parts supplier who told me
> they bought surplus parts and wooden bucks to make body parts.
> Am I confused to its location? I thought it was AH Spares. I know I sent
> my folks there to bring me back an oil pump in I think 81.
> So have I had  hallucination or is my memory clouded?
> Thanks all.
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Fri Feb  5 09:13:46 2021
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 11:13:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield washer jet nut
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5bG_jz6_O49_GkcNRHbgZYBfZTk+22+yEFE-6O3WC20g@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Anyone know what size the nut is on the underside of the windshield washer
jet on my BJ8?

Before I go upside down under the dash and without having to exit several
times to try and get the correct size wrench, does anyone know the correct
size so I only need to do this in and out once?

Thanks for any help on this one,

Fred
66 BJ8
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Feb  3 04:39:06 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (C. Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2021 12:39:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover
In-Reply-To: <032501d6f959$8a9674d0$9fc35e70$@comcast.net>
References: <032501d6f959$8a9674d0$9fc35e70$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AC04767E-6619-419A-BADA-EEB6E8F47A47@chello.nl>

I always use 600-1200-2000-3000wet&dry followed by a good cleaner/wax. This may sometimes result in a typical mottled brown Bakerlite finish. If so and if you prefer a black finish use a leather dye or ink before waxing.
Kees Oudesluijs

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone

> Op 2 feb. 2021 om 12:51 heeft rustyle at comcast.net het volgende geschreven:
> 
> ?
> Try tire shine.
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
> Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2021 6:04 AM
> To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> Cc: healybruce at roadrunner.com; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring a control box cover
>  
> If india ink doesn't do it, then try black shoe polish.  It should seep in and give a permanent color.
>  
>  
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 8:44 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> I?ve an original Lucas control box cover in need of restoration.  I?ve removed some of the yellowish brown patina with 0000 steel wool, and used some Mother?s Back to Black, but there?s more that needs to be done.  Seeking the wisdom of others as to the best process to restore the cover to its original semi-gloss black.  Is painting it the only way?  If so, how best to prep it?  Other options?
>  
> Thanks.
>  
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Feb  5 14:21:45 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2021 21:21:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube nut
References: <1596720819.3083147.1612560105713.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1596720819.3083147.1612560105713@mail.yahoo.com>

ListersLooking for the nut that secures the stator tube via the split ferrule on a earlier 100 with a three bolt end plate on the steering box.?Looks like the part number for the early car is 7H 6702. I have a bunch of nuts from a later car, part number 7H6167.?Anyone know if there was a change in the threads or something that generated a change in part number or just the factory messing with things.?If I had a three bolt end plate handy this would not be an issue but the last one left the garage several months ago.??Perry?
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sat Feb  6 00:22:57 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 20:22:57 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
In-Reply-To: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>
 <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003501d6fc58$e5c01260$b1403720$@xtra.co.nz>

That?s a bit of a worry, Perry.

I know that at extreme temperatures plastic can fracture.  Who?d want a flaky Barbie?

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Friday, 5 February 2021 2:00 p.m.
To: <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter

 

I told her to be careful and wear something warm with the snow out there....I don?t know why she just doesn?t hear me but I do know she loves that little pink car. 

Have a good one

Perry

 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Feb  6 05:59:42 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 07:59:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+VAc3kpK7QEfq0b_Mu8LV6=obyvVahfcLGeEQA_eyJxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_PmUHPZ-s4gykuiCgwa0xpzSU0w9_qgRiP=1M9s0FYSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <30a79ea0-1bef-38c5-b8ce-e42a3768799b@summaventures.com>
 <CAB3i7L+VAc3kpK7QEfq0b_Mu8LV6=obyvVahfcLGeEQA_eyJxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <07b301d6fc87$efe3b330$cfab1990$@rr.com>

Yes, I took the train from London and visited SC Parts Group in Crawley in 1986 during a business trip.  Still have their catalog and have ordered a few parts from them since then.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2021 7:56 AM
To: pdzwig at summaventures.com
Cc: healey >> 'healeys'; i erbs
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts supplier south of Wimbledon

 

Wimbledon was Southern Carburettors. Now SC Parts in Crewley.

They kept the carburetor division going for several years after moving the Healey parts to Crawley.

Now owned by Limora of Germany.

 

M

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 08:24:30 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 10:24:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Drive time - Winter
In-Reply-To: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
References: <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453.ref@aol.com>
 <3FED153D-1E7C-4AB3-8FFB-D68EFA3F9453@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKEFgSDdh=XAfBBNxPqv6C9OtaWL81UdEkRTEefvkvvKA@mail.gmail.com>

A little cabin fever setting in Perry?

M ??

On Thu., Feb. 4, 2021, 8:01 p.m. Perry Small via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I told her to be careful and wear something warm with the snow out
> there....I don?t know why she just doesn?t hear me but I do know she loves
> that little pink car.
> Have a good one
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From paulleeks909 at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 12:20:16 2021
From: paulleeks909 at gmail.com (Paul Leeks)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 19:20:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
Message-ID: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi chaps

The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of
replacing it.

The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without
removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?

ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect
gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change
clutch and put it all back together?

As always, any advice very gratefully received.

Many thanks

Paul Leeks
100/6 BN4
Lancashire, UK
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Feb  6 12:33:39 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 14:33:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Paul,
Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff
disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox out
entirely.
A word of caution.
After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a new
clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. It is an
inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop and is a lot
less work than pulling everything out again.

M

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi chaps
>
> The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of
> replacing it.
>
> The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without
> removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?
>
> ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect
> gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change
> clutch and put it all back together?
>
> As always, any advice very gratefully received.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Paul Leeks
> 100/6 BN4
> Lancashire, UK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Feb  6 13:02:55 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 12:02:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <faff7474-67e0-681a-f7d2-10fc53cf6476@comcast.net>

Also too, consider replacing the pilot bushing, the release 'bearing' 
and the front seal on the gearbox while you're at it. Check side play on 
the release bearing fork; you probably won't need to do anything, but 
it's a bit of a job to put new bushings in.

On 2/6/2021 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Paul,
> Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff 
> disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox 
> out entirely.
> A word of caution.
> After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a 
> new clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. 
> It is an inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop 
> and is a lot less work than pulling everything out again.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:paulleeks909 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hi chaps
>
>     The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am
>     thinking of replacing it.
>
>     The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ
>     (without removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?
>
>     ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft,
>     disconnect gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it
>     backwards on a jack, change clutch and put it all back together?
>
>     As always, any advice very gratefully received.
>
>     Many thanks
>
>     Paul Leeks
>     100/6 BN4
>     Lancashire, UK
>

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Feb  6 14:11:24 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 13:11:24 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <faff7474-67e0-681a-f7d2-10fc53cf6476@comcast.net>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
 <faff7474-67e0-681a-f7d2-10fc53cf6476@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <590A9C474EA747F58FDA9B5BD149EA98@AllInOne>

Paul,
 
If you do get the flywheel resurfaced which is a good suggestion. Mark the
orientation of the flywheel before removing to have minimal affect on the
engine balance.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2021 12:03 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch


Also too, consider replacing the pilot bushing, the release 'bearing' and
the front seal on the gearbox while you're at it. Check side play on the
release bearing fork; you probably won't need to do anything, but it's a bit
of a job to put new bushings in.


On 2/6/2021 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote:


Hi Paul,
Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff
disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox out
entirely. 

A word of caution. 

After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a new
clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. It is an
inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop and is a lot
less work than pulling everything out again.


M


On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com> wrote:


Hi chaps

The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of
replacing it.

The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without
removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?

ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect
gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change
clutch and put it all back together?

As always, any advice very gratefully received.

Many thanks

Paul Leeks
100/6 BN4
Lancashire, UK



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From llennep at verizon.net  Sat Feb  6 16:53:11 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2021 23:53:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <234233168.3375673.1612655591671@mail.yahoo.com>

If you are going to resurface the fly why not lighten it at the same time? ?Lightened fly on the BN7 (which now lives in southern France) and engine felt noticeably more peppy. ?Quick raving and all that. ?More responsive.KeithBJ8 only now


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2021 2:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch

Hi Paul,Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox out entirely. 
A word of caution. 
After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a new clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. It is an inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop and is a lot less work than pulling everything out again.
M

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi chaps

The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of replacing it.

The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?

ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change clutch and put it all back together?

As always, any advice very gratefully received.

Many thanks

Paul Leeks
100/6 BN4
Lancashire, UK_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net

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From paulleeks909 at gmail.com  Mon Feb  8 05:58:23 2021
From: paulleeks909 at gmail.com (Paul Leeks)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 12:58:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <234233168.3375673.1612655591671@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com>
 <234233168.3375673.1612655591671@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAMNM2mBpVmNL6FPujKkrdociofn2dg=YTNzT=W7gkogT=t8naQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for all your excellent suggestions.

I'll let you know how it goes :-)

Cheers

Paul Leeks



On Sat, 6 Feb 2021 at 23:53, <llennep at verizon.net> wrote:

> If you are going to resurface the fly why not lighten it at the same
> time?  Lightened fly on the BN7 (which now lives in southern France) and
> engine felt noticeably more peppy.  Quick raving and all that.  More
> responsive.
> Keith
> BJ8 only now
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2021 2:33 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
>
> Hi Paul,
> Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff
> disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox out
> entirely.
> A word of caution.
> After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a new
> clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. It is an
> inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop and is a lot
> less work than pulling everything out again.
>
> M
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Feb  8 07:15:25 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 14:15:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Family
References: <1575344648.3747176.1612793725272.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1575344648.3747176.1612793725272@mail.yahoo.com>

ListersSometimes you just have to gush (equate to the oil leaks under your Austin Healey) about people in your life.??We have a niece who has been an actress for many year? that acts under the name Keylor Leigh..Yesterday during the Super Bowl? telecast (a different kind of football for many of you)?there was a commercial for Rocket Mortgage that she was in.. She played the part of the mother/wife.? Link is at:? ?https://youtu.be/EMgA-y2nRWEPerry


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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Feb  8 08:40:03 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2021 07:40:03 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch
In-Reply-To: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMNM2mBjaYpQQiYd1PoamSRexEkSbC1vh8kNV-WmYW72rWSozg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-Sk2WTRH6jh5TSKU-AavO7EqJOU3C05Vb111cZsk_CTw@mail.gmail.com>

Make sure you have a 2x4 to support the back of the engine after pulling
the transmission out.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sat, Feb 6, 2021, 11:26 AM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi chaps
>
> The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of
> replacing it.
>
> The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without
> removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?
>
> ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect
> gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change
> clutch and put it all back together?
>
> As always, any advice very gratefully received.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Paul Leeks
> 100/6 BN4
> Lancashire, UK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Feb  9 10:48:29 2021
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 12:48:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.

I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three different
gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit for all
gaskets including the head gasket.  Moss shows short head studs vs long
head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in price
from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".

I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP
has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the
thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are
asking me the same questions as ARP.

So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs
regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who
to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness)
and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque
in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?

As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I do
not race the car so it is stock.

Thanks for the help,

Fred

66 BJ8
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  9 12:19:49 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 19:19:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25075509E925BF8352F30DE9D18E9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

ARP makes high strength studs but they do not make any specifically for the Austin-Healey, they are adapted from some other models. When I rebuilt my engine in my 100-6, that if the studs were not stretched or damaged, to just reuse them, if used for normal usage. But I used new high strength nuts. I cannot recall where I got my head gasket.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Fred Wescoe<mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>
Sent: February 9, 2021 11:49 AM
To: healeys<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket

Listers,

I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.

I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit for all gaskets including the head gasket.  Moss shows short head studs vs long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".

I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are asking me the same questions as ARP.

So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness) and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?

As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I do not race the car so it is stock.

Thanks for the help,

Fred

66 BJ8

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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Tue Feb  9 12:35:00 2021
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 11:35:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAMoKZw_yT+1STr=bbMNJLGu8QmRtUYMSC5qWgaEfXv5YN3vmvg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMoKZw_yT+1STr=bbMNJLGu8QmRtUYMSC5qWgaEfXv5YN3vmvg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw8m5n+u0L-xe-AVy+SX+iBS3M=2apMt5MQFbXTgJYsDqA@mail.gmail.com>

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Mark Fawcett <m.fawcett at cox.net>
Date: Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Head gasket
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>


Fred,
I can only tell you what I did when I rebuilt my engine 20 years ago. I
used the gasket set that was the $64 and I used the original existing
studs. I did not over torque the head nuts. The motor is still together and
running fine. I'm sure that many would replace the studs, and I did
consider it, but in the end I did not.

Good luck

Mark Fawcett

On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 9:49 AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.
>
> I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three
> different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit
> for all gaskets including the head gasket.  Moss shows short head studs vs
> long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in
> price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
>
> I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP
> has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the
> thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are
> asking me the same questions as ARP.
>
> So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs
> regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who
> to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness)
> and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque
> in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?
>
> As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I
> do not race the car so it is stock.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Feb  9 13:54:21 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 15:54:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37f5c92d-9e59-233b-b13f-16bf06d2e6b7@earthlink.net>

Somebody please correct me.? For some reason I believe that ARP doesn't 
carry sets of studs for the Austin-Healeys is because an Austin-Healey 
parts supplier worked out an exclusive deal with ARP.? I'm probably way 
out in left field with this...

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/9/21 12:48 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I am thoroughly?confused and baffled and I need help.
>
> I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.? Moss shows three 
> different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.? Moss shows a $64 complete 
> kit for all gaskets including the head gasket. Moss shows short head 
> studs vs long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" 
> ranging in price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
>
> I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.? 
> ARP has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud 
> and the thread size.? I have also?read that Summit sells the studs and 
> they are asking me the same questions as ARP.
>
> So, the questions?are what is the info on the stud sizes, high 
> strength vs regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or 
> short studs, who to buy from, who is the source for the best head 
> gasket (what thickness) and what else do I need to know.? The manual 
> says 75 ft lbs of final torque in three stages.? Should I be a bit 
> more than that or stick with the book?
>
> As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.? 
> I do not?race the car so it is stock.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Feb  9 14:46:39 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 16:46:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKA_gxBS5-=GwqpEhR6SA_jykLDdKA9828UfiRqC5CQHA@mail.gmail.com>

My experience has been that the original studs and nuts, when installed
correctly, are perfectly adequate unless the engine has been very
significantly modified.

M

On Tue., Feb. 9, 2021, 12:49 p.m. Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.
>
> I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three
> different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit
> for all gaskets including the head gasket.  Moss shows short head studs vs
> long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in
> price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
>
> I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP
> has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the
> thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are
> asking me the same questions as ARP.
>
> So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs
> regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who
> to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness)
> and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque
> in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?
>
> As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I
> do not race the car so it is stock.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Feb  9 15:28:23 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 22:28:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1474710271.464304.1612909703087@mail.yahoo.com>

FredThere are multiple thousands of Austin Healey 6 cylinder cars on the road today using Payden original style head gaskets, original studs and nuts, installed to factory specs without having a monumental failure rate.?If your car is a driver, not a race car, build it accordingly.?Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 9, 2021 12:48 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket

Listers,??
I am thoroughly?confused and baffled and I need help.
I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.? Moss shows three different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.? Moss shows a $64 complete kit for all gaskets including the head gasket.? Moss shows short head studs vs long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.? ARP has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the thread size.? I have also?read that Summit sells the studs and they are asking me the same questions as ARP.
So, the questions?are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness) and what else do I need to know.? The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque in three stages.? Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book???
As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.? I do not?race the car so it is stock.
Thanks for the help,
Fred
66 BJ8_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Feb  9 17:47:08 2021
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 11:47:08 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <37f5c92d-9e59-233b-b13f-16bf06d2e6b7@earthlink.net>
References: <37f5c92d-9e59-233b-b13f-16bf06d2e6b7@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DA40111A-9122-4F54-A1C8-BA63E26AD8BB@gmail.com>

Bob, That?s exactly my understanding as well. 
Probably these. https://www.bighealey.co.uk/competition-head-studs-grouped-1
Same as Quaife Diffs for 3000?s. 
https://shop.quaife.co.uk/austin-healey-3000-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential

Best
Chris


> On 10 Feb 2021, at 7:55 am, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Somebody please correct me.  For some reason I believe that ARP doesn't carry sets of studs for the Austin-Healeys is because an Austin-Healey parts supplier worked out an exclusive deal with ARP.  I'm probably way out in left field with this...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> 
>> On 2/9/21 12:48 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.
>> 
>> I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit for all gaskets including the head gasket. Moss shows short head studs vs long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
>> 
>> I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are asking me the same questions as ARP.
>> 
>> So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness) and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?
>> 
>> As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I do not race the car so it is stock.
>> 
>> Thanks for the help,
>> 
>> Fred
>> 
>> 66 BJ8
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb  9 19:30:52 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 10:30:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <1474710271.464304.1612909703087@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1474710271.464304.1612909703087@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+toCQ5PvpPWvRy44moFz9m3Q8zaya8qauMGT6HqxffiQ@mail.gmail.com>

My BJ8 probably has 150K miles on it done this way, never touched the head
after replacing the head gasket in all that time.

On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 6:36 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Fred
> There are multiple thousands of Austin Healey 6 cylinder cars on the road
> today using Payden original style head gaskets, original studs and nuts,
> installed to factory specs without having a monumental failure rate.
> If your car is a driver, not a race car, build it accordingly.
> Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Feb 9, 2021 12:48 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
>
> Listers,
>
> I am thoroughly confused and baffled and I need help.
>
> I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.  Moss shows three
> different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.  Moss shows a $64 complete kit
> for all gaskets including the head gasket.  Moss shows short head studs vs
> long head studs and they show a "High Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in
> price from $8.99 each to $229.99 for the "Set".
>
> I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength stud.  ARP
> has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter of the stud and the
> thread size.  I have also read that Summit sells the studs and they are
> asking me the same questions as ARP.
>
> So, the questions are what is the info on the stud sizes, high strength vs
> regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long or short studs, who
> to buy from, who is the source for the best head gasket (what thickness)
> and what else do I need to know.  The manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque
> in three stages.  Should I be a bit more than that or stick with the book?
>
> As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things up.  I
> do not race the car so it is stock.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb  9 21:22:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2021 20:22:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+toCQ5PvpPWvRy44moFz9m3Q8zaya8qauMGT6HqxffiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4=Uiq28pXFnncQGK9ubXEYN0rUkQWOxRga5NyxoHQ+-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1474710271.464304.1612909703087@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+toCQ5PvpPWvRy44moFz9m3Q8zaya8qauMGT6HqxffiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6b46e0ea-dc4b-0eff-8839-fca84ce2f4c4@comcast.net>

Interesting thread. I'd always heard it was gospel that when you 
overhauled an engine you used new head studs/bolts. But, when I last had 
my BJ8 overhauled few years ago the mechanic, a very meticulous Kiwi at 
a local speed shop--who also happened to be a licensed aircraft 
mechanic--reused the ones in the engine which, AFAIK, were original (the 
car had about 200K miles). It's run great for going on 7K miles.

I had a Payen top end gasket set I'd bought years ago and used its head 
gasket. I've heard some scuttlebutt about Payen no longer being made in 
England, but can't confirm it.

Bob

On 2/9/2021 6:30 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> My BJ8 probably has 150K miles on it done this way, never touched the 
> head after replacing the head gasket in all that time.
>
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2021 at 6:36 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Fred
>     There are multiple thousands of Austin Healey 6 cylinder cars on
>     the road today using Payden original style head gaskets, original
>     studs and nuts, installed to factory specs without having a
>     monumental failure rate.
>     If your car is a driver, not a race car, build it accordingly.
>     Perry
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com <mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>>
>     To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     Sent: Tue, Feb 9, 2021 12:48 pm
>     Subject: [Healeys] Head gasket
>
>     Listers,
>
>     I am thoroughly?confused and baffled and I need help.
>
>     I need to replace the head gasket on my 66 BJ8.? Moss shows three
>     different gaskets ranging from $49 to $229.? Moss shows a $64
>     complete kit for all gaskets including the head gasket.? Moss
>     shows short head studs vs long head studs and they show a "High
>     Strength Head Stud Set" ranging in price from $8.99 each to
>     $229.99 for the "Set".
>
>     I have read (on the Moss site) that ARP makes the high strength
>     stud.? ARP has asked me for the length of the stud, the diameter
>     of the stud and the thread size.? I have also?read that Summit
>     sells the studs and they are asking me the same questions as ARP.
>
>     So, the questions?are what is the info on the stud sizes, high
>     strength vs regular strength (same for the nuts and washers), long
>     or short studs, who to buy from, who is the source for the best
>     head gasket (what thickness) and what else do I need to know.? The
>     manual says 75 ft lbs of final torque in three stages.? Should I
>     be a bit more than that or stick with the book?
>
>     As you can see, I really need expert advice before I screw things
>     up.? I do not?race the car so it is stock.
>
>     Thanks for the help,
>
>     Fred
>
>     66 BJ8
>

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Feb 10 14:23:20 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Bob Begani)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 16:23:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo
Message-ID: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>

So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks brand
new and works.  First time in 15 years I have a speedo.  Although my
algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the approximate speed
in 3rd gear over drive.  I am now trying to install the speedo permanently
into the dash and having problems remembering the wiring.  As there are 2
wires with a circular ground connection, I should attach one to each
holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or sketch of the back of the dash?



Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from Moss?
The short ones?



Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was speaking
with John and mentioned my overheating problems.  Besides the normal
suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long neck
British radiator.  I when to my car and the radiator cap was a standard USA
Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.  Yes, it is ? inch longer than
the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my 25 mile drive on
Tamiami Trail and back.  The water gauge went right up to 212 and then to
230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of the trip without operating
the electric fan.  While driving at 30-40 through my neighborhood home with
the fan on the temperature stayed a little over 212 degrees.  Hopefully,
this temperature range with continue as I slowly get my Healey operating
well enough for longer trips.



Regards



Bob Begani
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Feb 10 14:53:39 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 16:53:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo
In-Reply-To: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f69a1dd3-5846-c70c-7b35-522fcacc73a5@earthlink.net>

I put the two black ground wires together on the same screw,

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/10/21 4:23 PM, Bob Begani wrote:
>
> So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks 
> brand new and works.? First time in 15 years I have a speedo.? 
> Although my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the 
> approximate speed in 3^rd gear over drive.? I am now trying to install 
> the speedo permanently into the dash and having problems remembering 
> the wiring.? As there are 2 wires with a circular ground connection, I 
> should attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or 
> sketch of the back of the dash?
>
> Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from 
> Moss?? The short ones?
>
> Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was 
> speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems.? Besides the 
> normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long 
> neck British radiator.? I when to my car and the radiator cap was a 
> standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.? Yes, it is ? 
> inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my 
> 25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back.? The water gauge went right 
> up to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of 
> the trip without operating the electric fan. While driving at 30-40 
> through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature stayed a 
> little over 212 degrees.? Hopefully, this temperature range with 
> continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for longer trips.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Feb 10 15:42:11 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 15:42:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo
In-Reply-To: <f69a1dd3-5846-c70c-7b35-522fcacc73a5@earthlink.net>
References: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <f69a1dd3-5846-c70c-7b35-522fcacc73a5@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <888392b1-8e81-d4c6-b31c-14232877c87b@porterscustom.com>

..If there are two separate blacks with eyelets.. one on tach, one on 
speedo.., one on fuel, and one on multi gauge...

On 2/10/2021 2:53 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> I put the two black ground wires together on the same screw,
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 2/10/21 4:23 PM, Bob Begani wrote:
>>
>> So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks 
>> brand new and works.? First time in 15 years I have a speedo.? 
>> Although my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the 
>> approximate speed in 3^rd gear over drive.? I am now trying to 
>> install the speedo permanently into the dash and having problems 
>> remembering the wiring.? As there are 2 wires with a circular ground 
>> connection, I should attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got 
>> a picture or sketch of the back of the dash?
>>
>> Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from 
>> Moss?? The short ones?
>>
>> Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was 
>> speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems. Besides the 
>> normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a 
>> long neck British radiator.? I when to my car and the radiator cap 
>> was a standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.? Yes, it 
>> is ? inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when 
>> for my 25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back.? The water gauge went 
>> right up to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the 
>> rest of the trip without operating the electric fan. While driving at 
>> 30-40 through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature 
>> stayed a little over 212 degrees.? Hopefully, this temperature range 
>> with continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for 
>> longer trips.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Bob Begani
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Feb 10 16:00:44 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 23:00:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>

ListersHad a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.?Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?Perry
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 10 16:29:55 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 15:29:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2e3c00da-8850-d06c-382a-a3c6812ee3d2@comcast.net>

I have one.

Mike

On 2/10/2021 3:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
> Listers
> Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of 
> the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.
> Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?
> Perry
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Feb 10 17:03:37 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 00:03:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello Listers,I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery drain. ?If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in a couple days or so. ?Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest. ?I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was fixed. No. ?Still there.So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the system. ?However I needed a dependable multimeter. ?I have 3 but do not trust the amperage reading on any of them. ?I secured a known good meter today and here is what I am observing.The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds. ?This happens time after time. ?What is going on here? ?Why is the meter behaving this way?Any help much appreciated.Keith
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From lnjn36 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 10 17:23:44 2021
From: lnjn36 at sbcglobal.net (Lynn Neff)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 18:23:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <2e3c00da-8850-d06c-382a-a3c6812ee3d2@comcast.net>
References: <2e3c00da-8850-d06c-382a-a3c6812ee3d2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EECAABC4-B998-489A-9F03-94934DAD38F4@sbcglobal.net>

Out in the garage, I have one shivering under it?s car cover here in frigid Illinois. 

Sent from Lynn Neff?s iPhone



> On Feb 10, 2021, at 5:34 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have one.
> 
> Mike
> 
> On 2/10/2021 3:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
>> Listers
>> Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there. 
>> Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?
>> Perry
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lnjn36 at sbcglobal.net
> 
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Feb 10 18:13:31 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 01:13:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1-BJ8 still out there
Message-ID: <b3da0ff33637bdb2f1d8227341521d0b4ab16170@webmail>

I'm glad you asked that question. As the keeper of the BJ8 Registry
since 1998, I can report that the registry just entered its 9,564th
car yesterday, with one in Finland. That is exactly 54% of total BJ8
production (17,712). That also includes 75 cars that have definitely
been confirmed as Scrapped. For the others, each one is a "snapshot"
in time (i.e., at the time it was entered or the date of the record).
For some of them, there is only a record of an owner in the 1970s (for
example). Does it still exist? Who knows? Even a car entered in 2002
or last year could have disappeared since then.Of course, many cars
have gone to Healey Heaven with no record being kept of them so if
they aren't in the registry now it can't be known whether they are
still in existence or not.
Some are Healeying around with no record because the owner doesn't
know about the registries, or doesn't see the value of entering the
details of his/her car into a database, or is protective of his/her
"privacy". 
Happy Healeying!Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at
LargeHavelock, NC USA
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb 10 18:35:39 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 01:35:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
Message-ID: <4f05f33a442e4be306d1468ff33a97e182509b7a@webmail>

Say, Perry- I am keeping track for the 1st year's production: 1274
cars in 1953. I have about 300 accounted for, but no one knows just
how many of those original BN1s are still on the road. If there is
500, that would be amazing considering how much abuse these cars took
over the years.
I have been compiling the list for years but just can't get the
cooperation of the community to come forward with their information. I
relied on healeydata.com for some of the listings, but that list too
is poorly attended and dated.
If you know of any of these cars from chassis #138031 to 150363 please
have them go to the website: healeyhelper.com and fill in the form to
list their vehicle. I am getting some assistance from British Heritage
Museum.
Currently we have 9 Healey Registries listed in Austin-Healey
Magazine, monthly from both clubs, but I do not know how complete
their lists are. There are less than 200 of the original 640 100-Ms
accounted for. Check with Steve Byers as to how many BJ8 might still
be around. Lots of attrition there.
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "healeyguy--- via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 3:01:39PM
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

  Listers Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about
how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are
still out there. Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a
current count? Perry
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Feb 10 18:37:07 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 01:37:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Free for the shipping
References: <2045974202.464872.1613007427699.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2045974202.464872.1613007427699@mail.yahoo.com>

Related to my post on meters I have this vintage Micronta free to a good home. ?It is listed as a Range Doubler Multitester. ?Case has a couple chips and not sure how well it works. ?Maybe repairable, maybe for parts, for the collector. ?This belonged to my father in law who used it in the 70s I believe.First come first served ?Shipping from 23602.Keith
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Feb 10 18:57:32 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 20:57:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo
In-Reply-To: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021801d70019$432acda0$c98068e0$@sympatico.ca>

Bob, that seems terribly hot to me.  My BT7 often runs around 170 in regular summer weather but even on the hottest days never goes above 185.  No electric fan ? just a bog standard cooling system, which is sufficient up here in Ontario.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Begani
Sent: February 10, 2021 4:23 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

 

So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks brand new and works.  First time in 15 years I have a speedo.  Although my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the approximate speed in 3rd gear over drive.  I am now trying to install the speedo permanently into the dash and having problems remembering the wiring.  As there are 2 wires with a circular ground connection, I should attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or sketch of the back of the dash?

 

Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from Moss?  The short ones?  

 

Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems.  Besides the normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long neck British radiator.  I when to my car and the radiator cap was a standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.  Yes, it is ? inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my 25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back.  The water gauge went right up to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of the trip without operating the electric fan.  While driving at 30-40 through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature stayed a little over 212 degrees.  Hopefully, this temperature range with continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for longer trips.

 

Regards

 

Bob Begani

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 10 19:16:13 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 10:16:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLVAe56k4yt+Gz8oqLT0L=Q8nOB5fbU2etArLkoYMgnwg@mail.gmail.com>

Don't think we can diagnose the multimeter, but you should compare readings
amongst all the meters and see if they have the same reading on a known
electrical load.

Generally speaking if your hot rod is draining the battery, it's probably
because there's a grounding issue somewhere.  Easiest fix is to put an
isolation switch on the batter and just shut it off when you're not
driving.  This is good practice anyway.



On Thu, Feb 11, 2021 at 8:04 AM llennep--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
> I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.
> I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery
> drain.  If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in
> a couple days or so.  Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest.
> I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was
> fixed. No.  Still there.
> So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling
> fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the
> system.  However I needed a dependable multimeter.  I have 3 but do not
> trust the amperage reading on any of them.  I secured a known good meter
> today and here is what I am observing.
> The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and
> then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds.  This happens time after time.  What
> is going on here?  Why is the meter behaving this way?
> Any help much appreciated.
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb 10 19:20:24 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 02:20:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] heating up
Message-ID: <a0b9be39954030bd206bff961e5b6fa640902953@webmail>

Go to Harbor Freight and purchase a heat gun (about $20) focus it on
the head and also the radiator. If the readings are different from you
gauge on the facia, send that off to Nisonger as well. If the gauge
reads the same as the heat gun, you need to find out what's wrong with
the cooling system.
Normal temp. is about 185 degrees F. My Healey has never gone above
that, unless idling in traffic...then maybe 200. A 7lb. pressure cap
allow you to go to 219 before you boil...but that's too hot and you
will soon be looking for replacing head gaskets or cracked heads.

Check that temp gauge, maybe clean the bulb in the radiator and adjust
fan belt, but sounds like a flush, new thermostat, maybe a water pump,
and antifreeze are in your future. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
To: "Bob Begani", "Ahealey help"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 6:06:26PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

	Bob, that seems terribly hot to me. My BT7 often runs around 170 in
regular summer weather but even on the hottest days never goes above
185. No electric fan ? just a bog standard cooling system, which is
sufficient up here in Ontario. 

	Mirek 

	FROM: Healeys  ON BEHALF OF Bob Begani
SENT: February 10, 2021 4:23 PM
TO: Ahealey help 
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo  

	So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks
brand new and works. First time in 15 years I have a speedo. Although
my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the approximate
speed in 3rd gear over drive. I am now trying to install the speedo
permanently into the dash and having problems remembering the wiring.
As there are 2 wires with a circular ground connection, I should
attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or sketch
of the back of the dash? 

	Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from
Moss? The short ones?  

	Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was
speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems. Besides the
normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long
neck British radiator. I when to my car and the radiator cap was a
standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested. Yes, it is ?
inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my
25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back. The water gauge went right up
to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of the
trip without operating the electric fan. While driving at 30-40
through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature stayed a
little over 212 degrees. Hopefully, this temperature range with
continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for longer
trips. 

	Regards 

	Bob Begani
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb 10 19:42:47 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 18:42:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <4f05f33a442e4be306d1468ff33a97e182509b7a@webmail>
References: <4f05f33a442e4be306d1468ff33a97e182509b7a@webmail>
Message-ID: <1e0d929c-4a0e-c611-ef8d-e382244448f0@comcast.net>

re: "There are less than 200 of the original 640 100-Ms accounted for."

Is this number from Bill Meade's 100M Registry?

Bob

ps. Of course, the old joke is that of the original 640 'factory' 100Ms 
built only about 3,000 remain ;)


On 2/10/2021 5:35 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> Say, Perry- I am keeping track for the 1st year's production: 1274 
> cars in 1953.? I have about 300 accounted for, but no one knows just 
> how many of those original BN1s are still? on the road. If there is 
> 500, that would be amazing considering how much abuse these cars took 
> over the years.
>
> I have been compiling the list for years but just can't get the 
> cooperation of the community to come forward with their information. I 
> relied on healeydata.com for some of the listings, but that list too 
> is poorly attended and dated.
>
> If you know of any of these cars from chassis #138031 to 150363 please 
> have them go to the website: healeyhelper.com and fill in the form to 
> list their vehicle. I am getting some assistance from British Heritage 
> Museum.
>
> Currently we have 9 Healey Registries listed in Austin-Healey 
> Magazine, monthly from both clubs, but I do not know how complete 
> their lists are.? There are less than 200 of the original 640 100-Ms 
> accounted for. Check with Steve Byers as to how many BJ8 might still 
> be around. Lots of attrition there.
>
> Regards, Hank
>


From healey100m at me.com  Wed Feb 10 19:57:48 2021
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 21:57:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>

Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 &  BN2?s. (2230 BN1?s, and 1272 BN2?s)

Of those numbers I show 81 BN1?s swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2?s scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on eBay, etc.

That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.

Randy Hicks

> On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Listers
> Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there. 
> Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?
> Perry

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Feb 10 20:27:07 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 14:27:07 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>
Message-ID: <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

I have detailed records of all the BN3s that are known about, plus their owners.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 1:58 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 

Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 &  BN2?s. (2230 BN1?s, and 1272 BN2?s)

 

Of those numbers I show 81 BN1?s swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2?s scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on eBay, etc.

 

That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.

 

Randy Hicks





On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 

Listers

Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.  

Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count? 

Perry

 



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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 10 20:46:15 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 03:46:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>,
 <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Patrick,
I am sure you can also count it all on one hand too. The nice thing abut is that you are sharing it with other Healey owners to the benefit of everyone, unlike what some of the other Registries are doing.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn<mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Sent: February 10, 2021 9:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

Hello

I have detailed records of all the BN3s that are known about, plus their owners.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 1:58 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 &  BN2?s. (2230 BN1?s, and 1272 BN2?s)

Of those numbers I show 81 BN1?s swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2?s scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on eBay, etc.

That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.

Randy Hicks

On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Listers
Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.
Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?
Perry


[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fsig-email%3Futm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dlink%26utm_campaign%3Dsig-email%26utm_content%3Demailclient&data=04%7C01%7C%7C7b49bfa43d2448e25fc808d8ce3e1c62%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637486113449224326%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=yehZMwaFjEGouexsiilL1kVAGpp7E4ayVEDcSxfgjjw%3D&reserved=0>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Feb 10 21:37:00 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>,
 <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
 <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <010d01d7002f$8a3c27a0$9eb476e0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Jean

 

I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared
with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 2:46 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 

Patrick,

I am sure you can also count it all on one hand too. The nice thing abut is
that you are sharing it with other Healey owners to the benefit of everyone,
unlike what some of the other Registries are doing.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

From: Patrick  <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> & Caroline Quinn
Sent: February 10, 2021 9:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 

Hello

 

I have detailed records of all the BN3s that are known about, plus their
owners.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy
Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 1:58 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 

Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 &  BN2's. (2230
BN1's, and 1272 BN2's)

 

Of those numbers I show 81 BN1's swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2's
scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on
eBay, etc.

 

That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.

 

Randy Hicks

 

On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 

Listers

Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the
approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.  

Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count? 

Perry

 

 


 
<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.
com%2Fsig-email%3Futm_medium%3Demail%26utm_source%3Dlink%26utm_campaign%3Dsi
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CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=yehZMwaFjEGouexsiilL1kVAGpp7E4ayVEDcSxfgjjw%3D&re
served=0> www.avast.com 

 

 



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From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Wed Feb 10 23:16:30 2021
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 17:16:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <4f05f33a442e4be306d1468ff33a97e182509b7a@webmail>
References: <4f05f33a442e4be306d1468ff33a97e182509b7a@webmail>
Message-ID: <873F80D8391C49D6BEF47AF07F477A45@msiallinone>

Jeez Hank 

The BJ8 looks easily restorable particularly down here in Aust. Just a bit of a cut and polish and away you go.

Wouldn?t be scrapping it in any event

Graeme M ( BJ8 )



 

From: gradea1 at charter.net 
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2021 12:35 PM
To: 'healeyguy at aol.com' 
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

Say, Perry- I am keeping track for the 1st year's production:  1274 cars in 1953.  I have about 300 accounted for, but no one knows just how many of those original BN1s are still  on the road. If there is 500, that would be amazing considering how much abuse these cars took over the years. 

I have been compiling the list for years but just can't get the cooperation of the community to come forward with their information. I relied on healeydata.com for some of the listings, but that list too is poorly attended and dated.

If you know of any of these cars from chassis #138031 to 150363 please have them go to the website: healeyhelper.com and fill in the form to list their vehicle. I am getting some assistance from British Heritage Museum.

Currently we have 9 Healey Registries listed in Austin-Healey Magazine, monthly from both clubs, but I do not know how complete their lists are.  There are less than 200 of the original 640 100-Ms accounted for. Check with Steve Byers as to how many BJ8 might still be around. Lots of attrition there.

Regards, Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 3:01:39PM
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there


Listers
Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.  
Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count? 
Perry


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Feb 11 06:41:14 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 08:41:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo
In-Reply-To: <021801d70019$432acda0$c98068e0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAAQpufkcgfZMjOCOFK03R+3JJLHML2anU2PjsmLosLAkRQ0i=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <021801d70019$432acda0$c98068e0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <005d01d7007b$91b059b0$b5110d10$@gmail.com>

Hi Mirek:

 

I did not have the overheating problems when the car was housed in the Chicago Area and across the lake in lower Michigan where the car was housed there for many years. but never did it stay below 185.  During the past 10 years of living in Southwest Florida the problems of over heating became serious.  Hence the need to use additional cooling.  Also, most if not all Healey owners have similar problems when I visit British Car Shows in Florida and discuss the topic.  

 

It is Winter in SWFL so the daytime temperatures are reaching 90 degrees and the night time temps are in the 70?s except when our Canadian friends send the US a blast of cold weather which does reach below Sarasota Tampa the winter frost line.  My good friend who lives in the county outside of Punta Gorda yesterday woke up and saw his pickup truck all covered with Yellow Pollen which is 4 weeks early. Winter is over and summer is just around the corner in this new climate.  By the time we leave for the 42 Parallel 1st weeks in May the temperature here is in the high 90?s and 80% humidity.  So, if my Healey will operate at 212 degrees F, I am happy as can be.  Enjoy your cool?? Winters and Cool summers?? For now, the change in Climate is moving north.

 

Best regards,

 

Bob Begani

 

From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> 
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2021 8:58 PM
To: 'Bob Begani' <rfbegani at gmail.com>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

 

Bob, that seems terribly hot to me.  My BT7 often runs around 170 in regular summer weather but even on the hottest days never goes above 185.  No electric fan ? just a bog standard cooling system, which is sufficient up here in Ontario.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Begani
Sent: February 10, 2021 4:23 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

 

So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks brand new and works.  First time in 15 years I have a speedo.  Although my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the approximate speed in 3rd gear over drive.  I am now trying to install the speedo permae dash and having problems remembering the wiring.  As there are 2 wires with a circular ground connection, I should attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or sketch of the back of the dash?

 

Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from Moss?  The short ones?  

 

Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems.  Besides the normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long neck British radiator.  I when to my car and the radiator cap was a standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.  Yes, it is ? inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my 25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back.  The water gauge went right up to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of the trip without operating the electric fan.  While driving at 30-40 through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature stayed a little over 212 degrees.  Hopefully, this temperature range with continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for longer trips.

 

Regards

 

Bob Begani

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Feb 11 06:48:38 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 08:48:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] heating up
In-Reply-To: <a0b9be39954030bd206bff961e5b6fa640902953@webmail>
References: <a0b9be39954030bd206bff961e5b6fa640902953@webmail>
Message-ID: <006a01d7007c$9a7ac200$cf704600$@gmail.com>

Good idea will buy a heat gun, to see if there is any differential.  By the way, last year the engine was rebuilt, radiator was boiled out and pressure tested not replaced because it had already additional capacity, always has 50/50 antifreeze in the cooling system etc.

 

Thanks for your comments will keep trying and driving with the top down without snow.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2021 9:20 PM
To: 'm.g.sharp at sympatico.ca' <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
Cc: 'Bob Begani' <rfbegani at gmail.com>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heating up

 

Go to Harbor Freight and purchase a heat gun (about $20) focus it on the head and also the radiator.  If the readings are different from you gauge on the facia, send that off to Nisonger as well.  If the gauge reads the same as the heat gun, you need to find out what's wrong with the cooling system.

 

Normal temp. is about 185 degrees F. My Healey has never gone above that, unless idling in traffic...then maybe 200.  A 7lb. pressure cap allow you to go to 219 before you boil...but that's too hot and you will soon be looking for replacing head gaskets or cracked heads.

Check that temp gauge, maybe clean the bulb in the radiator and adjust fan belt, but sounds like a flush, new thermostat, maybe a water pump, and antifreeze are in your future. Regards, Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> 
To: "Bob Begani", "Ahealey help"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 6:06:26PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

Bob, that seems terribly hot to me.  My BT7 often runs around 170 in regular summer weather but even on the hottest days never goes above 185.  No electric fan ? just a bog standard cooling system, which is sufficient up here in Ontario.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Begani
Sent: February 10, 2021 4:23 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Installing a rebuilt speedo

 

So over the summer I had the speedo rebuilt by Nisongers. It looks brand new and works.  First time in 15 years I have a speedo.  Although my algorithm of add 15 mph to the tack number gets you the approximate speed in 3rd gear over drive.  I am now trying to install the speedo permanently into the dash and having problems remembering the wiring.  As there are 2 wires with a circular ground connection, I should attach one to each holding spade? Has anyone got a picture or sketch of the back of the dash?

 

Also, I am trying to install Led lights. Which should I order from Moss?  The short ones? 

 

Also, when ordering some parts from British Car Specialists I was speaking with John and mentioned my overheating problems.  Besides the normal suggestions, He mentioned the radiator cap has to be for a long neck British radiator.  I when to my car and the radiator cap was a standard USA Stant, so I ordered the one he suggested.  Yes, it is ? inch longer than the stant and put it on the radiator and when for my 25 mile drive on Tamiami Trail and back.  The water gauge went right up to 212 and then to 230, but, settled down to 212 for the rest of the trip without operating the electric fan.  While driving at 30-40 through my neighborhood home with the fan on the temperature stayed a little over 212 degrees.  Hopefully, this temperature range with continue as I slowly get my Healey operating well enough for longer trips.

 

Regards

 

Bob Begani

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Feb 11 07:17:53 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 14:17:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Original Equipment dials
Message-ID: <b7374a76-1b6e-263b-9648-f6bf2feb32da@summaventures.com>

List,

Just a silly question.

I had always assumed that if a car was fitted with "Oyster"-coloured
speedo and rev counter then the original fuel gauge and temperature
gauge would have matched. Similarly for "white-on-black". And all would
originally have been Smiths.

A hare has just been set running which makes me think that may not have
been true? What is current guidance? My principal interest is in 100/6s,
but any info is welcome.

And if anyone knows whether or not this would have applied to works
rally cars please let me know as well.

Thanks in advance,

Peter

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From larry at patersondesign.ca  Thu Feb 11 07:49:09 2021
From: larry at patersondesign.ca (larry at patersondesign.ca)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 09:49:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <010d01d7002f$8a3c27a0$9eb476e0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com> 
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>,
 <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
 <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <010d01d7002f$8a3c27a0$9eb476e0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <1613054949.7p2vxuh5b8kks4kg@email.xplornet.com>


	


?
I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
?

Hello Jean

?

I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.

?

Hoo Roo

?

Patrick Quinn

?



From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 2:46 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there



?

Patrick,

I am sure you can also count it all on one hand too. The nice thing abut is that you are sharing it with other Healey owners to the benefit of everyone, unlike what some of the other Registries are doing.

?

Jean

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?


From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: February 10, 2021 9:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there


?

Hello

?

I have detailed records of all the BN3s that are known about, plus their owners.

?

Hoo Roo

?

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

?



From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 1:58 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there



?

Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 & ?BN2?s. (2230 BN1?s, and 1272 BN2?s)


?



Of those numbers I show 81 BN1?s swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2?s scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on eBay, etc.



?



That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.



?



Randy Hicks




?


On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


?




Listers


Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.? 


Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count? 


Perry






?



?


	
		
			
			
			
			
			Virus-free. www.avast.com 
			
		
	



?

?

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Suggested annual donation $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Feb 11 09:17:36 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 08:17:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] One for the Spritesters
Message-ID: <c0e20e58-cdcc-e3d1-4bf9-df067a3f0f5a@comcast.net>


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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Feb 11 10:04:36 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 12:04:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Anderson/Moment book plus another 629
Message-ID: <ff1f2f72-4b99-88e8-18cb-259adaa4e4db@earthlink.net>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Feb 11 10:08:00 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 17:08:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
Message-ID: <92cd37b5c64adc797c7f7617858b690c5ec1f8dc@webmail>

Can you believe it- that was a 1967 Golden Beige with just 800 MILES
on the odo!!! Photo taken at a junk yard in Rochester, N.Y. in 1967.
Such a waste. Don't have the vin Steve.43---- Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Graeme Molony" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net, healeyguy at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 10:16:33PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

   Jeez Hank   The BJ8 looks easily restorable particularly down here
in Aust. Just a bit of a cut and polish and away you go.   Wouldn?t
be scrapping it in any event   Graeme M ( BJ8 )      
       FROM: gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Thursday, February 11, 2021
12:35 PM TO: 'healeyguy at aol.com' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT:
Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there       Say,
Perry- I am keeping track for the 1st year's production: 1274 cars in
1953. I have about 300 accounted for, but no one knows just how many
of those original BN1s are still on the road. If there is 500, that
would be amazing considering how much abuse these cars took over the
years.   I have been compiling the list for years but just can't get
the cooperation of the community to come forward with their
information. I relied on healeydata.com for some of the listings, but
that list too is poorly attended and dated.   If you know of any of
these cars from chassis #138031 to 150363 please have them go to the
website: healeyhelper.com and fill in the form to list their vehicle.
I am getting some assistance from British Heritage Museum.   Currently
we have 9 Healey Registries listed in Austin-Healey Magazine, monthly
from both clubs, but I do not know how complete their lists are. There
are less than 200 of the original 640 100-Ms accounted for. Check with
Steve Byers as to how many BJ8 might still be around. Lots of
attrition there.   Regards, Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "healeyguy--- via
Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Wednesday February 10 2021 3:01:39PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 Listers Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about
how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are
still out there. Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a
current count? Perry    
-------------------------
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [1]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2]
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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Feb 11 11:11:01 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:11:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <1613054949.7p2vxuh5b8kks4kg@email.xplornet.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>
 <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
 <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <010d01d7002f$8a3c27a0$9eb476e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <1613054949.7p2vxuh5b8kks4kg@email.xplornet.com>
Message-ID: <864665348.576314.1613067061774@mail.yahoo.com>

It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will share general information concerning the models they are collecting information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying to locate a specific car or owner,when appropriate.
What information have you requested but not received & what registry was involved???Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: larry at patersondesign.ca
To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

? I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
?Hello Jean  ? I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.  ? Hoo Roo  ? Patrick Quinn  ? From: Jean Caron [mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 2:46 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there  ? Patrick, I am sure you can also count it all on one hand too. The nice thing abut is that you are sharing it with other Healey owners to the benefit of everyone, unlike what some of the other Registries are doing.  ? Jean  ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10  ? From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: February 10, 2021 9:35 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there  ? Hello  ? I have detailed records of all the BN3s that are known about, plus their owners.  ? Hoo Roo  ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia  ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, 11 February 2021 1:58 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there  ? Hi Perry, in the Austin-Healey 100 Registry I have 3502 BN1 & ?BN2?s. (2230 BN1?s, and 1272 BN2?s)  ? Of those numbers I show 81 BN1?s swapped or parted out, and 22 BN2?s scrapped or parted out. These counts include numbered parts being sold on eBay, etc.  ? That is current count but imagine there are many I do not have records on.  ? Randy Hicks  ? On Feb 10, 2021, at 6:00 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  ? Listers Had a thought today, after a brisk walk in the snow, about how many of the approximately 72,000 big Austin Healeys built are still out there.?  Anyone keeping up with the registry folks for a current count?  Perry  ?  ? 
|    |  Virus-free. www.avast.com   |

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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Feb 11 11:12:02 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 18:12:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <864665348.576314.1613067061774@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918242873.426010.1612998044261.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918242873.426010.1612998044261@mail.yahoo.com>
 <AFED79A2-8824-4E73-90A4-72961A45CEDE@me.com>
 <00f701d70025$c7171e50$55455af0$@tpg.com.au>
 <DM6PR17MB250750962FF5E4BEA6EBA022D18C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <010d01d7002f$8a3c27a0$9eb476e0$@tpg.com.au>
 <1613054949.7p2vxuh5b8kks4kg@email.xplornet.com>
 <864665348.576314.1613067061774@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <244073866.579186.1613067122226@mail.yahoo.com>

It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will share general information concerning the models they are collecting information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying to locate a specific car or owner,when appropriate.
What information have you requested but not received & what registry was involved???Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: larry at patersondesign.ca
To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

? I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
?Hello Jean  ? I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.  ? Hoo Roo  ? Patrick Quinn  ? 
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Feb 11 12:22:51 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 19:22:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
Message-ID: <d19a4abfaadaedbaec9d0422298ef2d4276d787f@webmail>

To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a
complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all
previous owners recorded and all of the car's details. For those who
inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the
details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates
of ownership, but no names or other personal data.
If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me
directly.
Thanks, Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at
LargeHavelock, NC USA

	-----------------------------------------From: "warthodson--- via
Healeys" 
To: "larry at patersondesign.ca", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au",
"vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

      It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will
share general information concerning the models they are collecting
information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They
won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will
often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying
to locate a specific car or owner, when appropriate.
 What information have you requested but not received & what registry
was involved?  Gary

   -----Original Message-----
 From: larry at patersondesign.ca
 To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron ; healeys at autox.team.net
 Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

            I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and
see how far you get.
 Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"  wrote:
    Hello Jean   I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey
information should be shared with everyone as only then does the
interest in the marques increases.   Hoo Roo   Patrick Quinn     

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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Feb 11 13:27:28 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 12:27:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box oil seal
Message-ID: <CALPtYiOvGza-4dVH-LcbPp8q7WuWWxMKO9rA1O-aFiuaqsDuLQ@mail.gmail.com>

Trying to replace the steering box oil seal on my BJ8 in situ.
Using modified pitman puller managed to get the arm off.
Now struggling to get the old oil seal out.
Any ideas/techniques appreciated ?
Only about 1/8 in gap between splines and housing.
Been making small hook with steel rod (bike spoke) but can"t get grip on
the steel ring.
Fellow AH person suggested drilling hole and inserting a screw to pull on ?
All thoughts appreciated.
rg



<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.
www.avg.com
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Feb 11 14:02:46 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 13:02:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box oil seal
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiOvGza-4dVH-LcbPp8q7WuWWxMKO9rA1O-aFiuaqsDuLQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiOvGza-4dVH-LcbPp8q7WuWWxMKO9rA1O-aFiuaqsDuLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a9b9e6d1-31d7-72bb-9a4f-ecdd2f9eac23@comcast.net>

I did it once, similar to what you've tried, but with 2 - 1/8" steel 
rods. I either flattened, or ground one end of each rod, then bent the 
tip 90deg as a hook. You want to push the rods up with the 'hooks' 
facing away from the rocker shaft, so that it grabs inside the steel 
sleeve of the seal to pull it out. Then, you can use the unflattened 
ends to tap the new seal in.

I think most people now use a couple of the thinner seals, as the 
proper, original-type seal is unavailable (I bought a spare from Gary 
Hemphill way back when).

Bob

On 2/11/2021 12:27 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> Trying to replace the steering box oil seal on my BJ8 in situ.
> Using modified pitman puller managed to get the arm off.
> Now struggling to get the old oil seal out.
> Any ideas/techniques appreciated ?
> Only about 1/8 in gap between splines and housing.
> Been making small hook with steel rod (bike spoke) but can"t get grip 
> on the steel ring.
> Fellow AH person suggested drilling hole and inserting a screw to pull 
> on ?
> All thoughts appreciated.
> rg
>
>


From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Feb 11 14:32:52 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2021 21:32:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box oil seal
Message-ID: <88843f76155e1d78d6efd1cd36e5ea4fa09dbebc@webmail>

I managed to get my BJ8 steering box oil seal out without drilling,
but that was almost 40 years ago and I don't remember the details.
However, I did remove oil seals from the crank and camshafts seals in
a Dodge Spirit by drilling holes to accommodate self-tapping screws,
and using pliers to pull on the screws. It works if you have room to
install the screws, but be careful not to ding the shaft. 
Steve Byers

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roger Grace via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 3:32:19PM
Subject: [Healeys] Steering box oil seal

  Trying to replace the steering box oil seal on my BJ8 in situ. Using
modified pitman puller managed to get the arm off. Now struggling to
get the old oil seal out. Any ideas/techniques appreciated ?
 Only about 1/8 in gap between splines and housing. Been making small
hook with steel rod (bike spoke) but can"t get grip on the steel ring.
Fellow AH person suggested drilling hole and inserting a screw to pull
on ? All thoughts appreciated. rg

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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 12 05:52:00 2021
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 12:52:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>

 not helping on meter question, but 12 volt lights with clip-leads attached will show current flow quite nicely....remove fuse...clip light bulb across removed fuse...if circuit is conducting current, the light bulb will "glow"??? (simetimes called a "bug-lite" by the old Telephone Company Central-Office-Techs)


Jim

    On Wednesday, February 10, 2021, 4:04:57 PM PST, llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Hello Listers,I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery drain. ?If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in a couple days or so. ?Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest. ?I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was fixed. No. ?Still there.So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the system. ?However I needed a dependable multimeter. ?I have 3 but do not trust the amperage reading on any of them. ?I secured a known good meter today and here is what I am observing.The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds. ?This happens time after time. ?What is going on here? ?Why is the meter behaving this way?Any help much appreciated.Keith_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Feb 12 06:18:25 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 08:18:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJTQYvPTyH19oTaHc+AGBsrKbOAbnEGaJi-4d0W3=5=nw@mail.gmail.com>

Another thick, similar to the bug light is to use an old "seat belt
warning" buzzer rather than the lamp. That way the device doesn?t have to
be in line of sight.

M

On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 7:52 a.m. jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> not helping on meter question, but 12 volt lights with clip-leads attached
> will show current flow quite nicely....remove fuse...clip light bulb across
> removed fuse...if circuit is conducting current, the light bulb will
> "glow"    (simetimes called a "bug-lite" by the old Telephone Company
> Central-Office-Techs)
>
>
> Jim
>
> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021, 4:04:57 PM PST, llennep--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.
> I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery
> drain.  If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in
> a couple days or so.  Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest.
> I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was
> fixed. No.  Still there.
> So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling
> fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the
> system.  However I needed a dependable multimeter.  I have 3 but do not
> trust the amperage reading on any of them.  I secured a known good meter
> today and here is what I am observing.
> The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and
> then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds.  This happens time after time.  What
> is going on here?  Why is the meter behaving this way?
> Any help much appreciated.
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 12 06:27:39 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 13:27:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] "M" camshaft
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881C3FBD5334FE18A0AE6A3D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I was wondering what driving/ idle characteristics would be like if a "M" camshaft was installed in a otherwise stock engine/ carb setup? I lack knowledge of camshaft degrees, duration, and all those technical details concerning camshafts, but I'm interested in drivers seat impressions.  Seems "M" camshaft are more readily available at the moment and for a much more reasonable price.

And to take it a step further,  what about a "M" camshaft and "M" pistons with stock carb setup? Obviously driving the car prior to sourcing the "M" carbs/intake.  Just curious.
Thank you,  Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Feb 12 06:46:07 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 08:46:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] "M" camshaft
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881C3FBD5334FE18A0AE6A3D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C3FBD5334FE18A0AE6A3D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJOb9u32H9H6kbnwUJA1uRq--PvuaHY0rMfr3BwZtozVg@mail.gmail.com>

I run an "M" cam and pistons in an otherwise stock engine and can report
that there are no drive ability or tuning issues.
Has plenty of power and overheating is only an issue when I get stopped in
traffic immediately after a fast run.

M

On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 8:28 a.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I was wondering what driving/ idle characteristics would be like if a "M"
> camshaft was installed in a otherwise stock engine/ carb setup? I lack
> knowledge of camshaft degrees, duration, and all those technical details
> concerning camshafts, but I'm interested in drivers seat impressions.
> Seems "M" camshaft are more readily available at the moment and for a much
> more reasonable price.
>
> And to take it a step further,  what about a "M" camshaft and "M" pistons
> with stock carb setup? Obviously driving the car prior to sourcing the "M"
> carbs/intake.  Just curious.
> Thank you,  Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Feb 12 09:07:38 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 16:07:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJTQYvPTyH19oTaHc+AGBsrKbOAbnEGaJi-4d0W3=5=nw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJTQYvPTyH19oTaHc+AGBsrKbOAbnEGaJi-4d0W3=5=nw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <585498711.1074528.1613146058892@mail.yahoo.com>

Michael would this buzzer sound (or a test light glow) from a completed circuit even though the current was a normal, very low few mA like is present in many of today's features in a car? ?- e.g. computer, clock etc


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Keith Pennell <llennep at verizon.net>
Sent: Fri, Feb 12, 2021 8:18 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Multimeter Question

Another thick, similar to the bug light is to use an old "seat belt warning" buzzer rather than the lamp. That way the device doesn?t have to be in line of sight.
M
On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 7:52 a.m. jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 not helping on meter question, but 12 volt lights with clip-leads attached will show current flow quite nicely....remove fuse...clip light bulb across removed fuse...if circuit is conducting current, the light bulb will "glow"??? (simetimes called a "bug-lite" by the old Telephone Company Central-Office-Techs)


Jim

    On Wednesday, February 10, 2021, 4:04:57 PM PST, llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Hello Listers,I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery drain.? If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in a couple days or so.? Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest.? I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was fixed. No.? Still there.So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the system.? However I needed a dependable multimeter.? I have 3 but do not trust the amperage reading on any of them.? I secured a known good meter today and here is what I am observing.The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds.? This happens time after time.? What is going on here?? Why is the meter behaving this way?Any help much appreciated.Keith_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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  _______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Feb 12 10:17:39 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 09:17:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c2e7f6e7-7499-6e8a-213e-4a5ccd2907a0@comcast.net>

re: "... What is going on here? ?Why is the meter behaving this way?"

I'll take a SWAG (worth what you paid for it): Measuring DC current is 
more difficult than measuring AC current, which is usually done with an 
inductive pickup. Because DC doesn't create inductance--except 
initially--it usually has to be measured inline; i.e. you have to break 
the circuit and insert the leads between ends. I suspect the DVM passes 
the current through a known-sized resistor, and measures voltage drop. 
The DVMs I've seen/used can only measure a few milliamps, anything more 
/could/ cause the meter to go bonkers, and just a few milliamps would 
take more than a couple days to drain a fully-charged starting battery 
(my Mustang has electrical stuff running even when 'off,' and I've gone 
several weeks without a dead battery). Again, just a guess.

Bob


On 2/12/2021 4:52 AM, jim via Healeys wrote:
> not helping on meter question, but 12 volt lights with clip-leads 
> attached will show current flow quite nicely....remove fuse...clip 
> light bulb across removed fuse...if circuit is conducting current, the 
> light bulb will "glow"??? (simetimes called a "bug-lite" by the old 
> Telephone Company Central-Office-Techs)
>
>
> Jim
>
> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021, 4:04:57 PM PST, llennep--- via 
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.
> I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery 
> drain. ?If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start 
> engine in a couple days or so. ?Recently I have been chasing the 
> problem in earnest. ?I did find one issue and resolved that with the 
> hope that the drain was fixed. No. ?Still there.
> So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - 
> pulling fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running 
> through the system. ?However I needed a dependable multimeter. ?I have 
> 3 but do not trust the amperage reading on any of them. ?I secured a 
> known good meter today and here is what I am observing.
> The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and 
> then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds. ?This happens time after time. 
> ?What is going on here? ?Why is the meter behaving this way?
> Any help much appreciated.
> Keith
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Feb 12 10:23:46 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 09:23:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] "M" camshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJOb9u32H9H6kbnwUJA1uRq--PvuaHY0rMfr3BwZtozVg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C3FBD5334FE18A0AE6A3D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJOb9u32H9H6kbnwUJA1uRq--PvuaHY0rMfr3BwZtozVg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f2d271ef-8c03-5cda-0c2c-58884077b844@comcast.net>

Usually, a cam 'upgrade' goes along with other mods, higher compression, 
headers, higher mixture delivery, timing curve change, etc. Michael 
confirms the M cam doesn't cause drivability issues, but I don't think 
you'd get much, if any, performance increase without the other mods. If 
you put a really radical cam in an engine, you could get drivability 
issues (it probably wouldn't idle very well, for one thing). Are you 
thinking of installing one with a mind to do the other mods later?

Bob

On 2/12/2021 5:46 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I run an "M" cam and pistons in an otherwise stock engine and can 
> report that there are no drive ability or tuning issues.
> Has plenty of power and overheating is only an issue when I get 
> stopped in traffic immediately after a fast run.
>
> M
>
> On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 8:28 a.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I was wondering what driving/ idle characteristics would be like
>     if a "M" camshaft was installed in a otherwise stock engine/ carb
>     setup? I lack knowledge of camshaft degrees, duration, and all
>     those technical details concerning camshafts, but I'm interested
>     in drivers seat impressions.? Seems "M" camshaft are more readily
>     available at the moment and for a much more reasonable price.
>
>     And to take it a step further,? what about a "M" camshaft and "M"
>     pistons with stock carb setup? Obviously driving the car prior to
>     sourcing the "M" carbs/intake. Just curious.
>     Thank you,? Shawn
>
>     The Millers
>
>     "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
>     test drive."
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Feb 12 12:18:35 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 14:18:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
In-Reply-To: <585498711.1074528.1613146058892@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1918910255.431940.1613001817657.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1918910255.431940.1613001817657@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1992481377.821668.1613134320693@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJTQYvPTyH19oTaHc+AGBsrKbOAbnEGaJi-4d0W3=5=nw@mail.gmail.com>
 <585498711.1074528.1613146058892@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKVs+yXv+DC5DKXmdnB=hmCSFQ2+j=MTUk4+8j1rD7WWA@mail.gmail.com>

Hmmm ... not sure exactly what sort of current the buzzers require but it's
very low .. even an errant relay will make it sound. Pic attached.
I use this fairly frequently.

On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 11:07 a.m. , <llennep at verizon.net> wrote:

> Michael would this buzzer sound (or a test light glow) from a completed
> circuit even though the current was a normal, very low few mA like is
> present in many of today's features in a car?  - e.g. computer, clock etc
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Keith Pennell <llennep at verizon.net>
> Sent: Fri, Feb 12, 2021 8:18 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Multimeter Question
>
> Another thick, similar to the bug light is to use an old "seat belt
> warning" buzzer rather than the lamp. That way the device doesn?t have to
> be in line of sight.
>
> M
>
> On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 7:52 a.m. jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> not helping on meter question, but 12 volt lights with clip-leads attached
> will show current flow quite nicely....remove fuse...clip light bulb across
> removed fuse...if circuit is conducting current, the light bulb will
> "glow"    (simetimes called a "bug-lite" by the old Telephone Company
> Central-Office-Techs)
>
>
> Jim
>
> On Wednesday, February 10, 2021, 4:04:57 PM PST, llennep--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> I am seeking to tap the knowledge of the list on this general auto matter.
> I bought a hot rod last year and from the get go I have had a battery
> drain.  If system is left on the batt will get too weak to start engine in
> a couple days or so.  Recently I have been chasing the problem in earnest.
> I did find one issue and resolved that with the hope that the drain was
> fixed. No.  Still there.
> So yesterday I began preparing for the standard search method - pulling
> fuses one at a time and noting the drop in amps running through the
> system.  However I needed a dependable multimeter.  I have 3 but do not
> trust the amperage reading on any of them.  I secured a known good meter
> today and here is what I am observing.
> The reading starts out reading a few tenths amp fluctuating wildly and
> then drops to almost 0 in 2-3 seconds.  This happens time after time.  What
> is going on here?  Why is the meter behaving this way?
> Any help much appreciated.
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 12 13:28:58 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2021 20:28:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] "M" camshaft
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJOb9u32H9H6kbnwUJA1uRq--PvuaHY0rMfr3BwZtozVg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C3FBD5334FE18A0AE6A3D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LJOb9u32H9H6kbnwUJA1uRq--PvuaHY0rMfr3BwZtozVg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881DB7A8850E6362422D924D48B9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you for your feedback. Very helpful.


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 8:46 AM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "M" camshaft

I run an "M" cam and pistons in an otherwise stock engine and can report that there are no drive ability or tuning issues.
Has plenty of power and overheating is only an issue when I get stopped in traffic immediately after a fast run.

M

On Fri., Feb. 12, 2021, 8:28 a.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
I was wondering what driving/ idle characteristics would be like if a "M" camshaft was installed in a otherwise stock engine/ carb setup? I lack knowledge of camshaft degrees, duration, and all those technical details concerning camshafts, but I'm interested in drivers seat impressions.  Seems "M" camshaft are more readily available at the moment and for a much more reasonable price.

And to take it a step further,  what about a "M" camshaft and "M" pistons with stock carb setup? Obviously driving the car prior to sourcing the "M" carbs/intake.  Just curious.
Thank you,  Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Feb 14 02:55:30 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2021 20:55:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Sidelight Fasteners
Message-ID: <00b101d702b7$881b4c00$9851e400$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Does anyone know the correct fastener for attaching the front sidelights to
an early 100?

 

I have looked through the concours guidelines and can't find a reference.

 

At the rear there are small machine screws, washers and nuts, but the front
looks as if it should have self tapping screws,

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Asutralia



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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Feb 14 08:54:46 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2021 15:54:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
Message-ID: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>

To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a
complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all
previous owners recorded and all of the car's details. For those who
inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the
details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates
of ownership, but no names or other personal data. 
 If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me
directly. 
 Thanks,  Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA  

	----------------------------------------- From: "warthodson--- via
Healeys"
 To: "larry at patersondesign.ca", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au",
"vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com", "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

     It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will
share general information concerning the models they are collecting
information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They
won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will
often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying
to locate a specific car or owner, when appropriate.
 What information have you requested but not received & what registry
was involved?  Gary

   -----Original Message-----
 From: larry at patersondesign.ca
 To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron ; healeys at autox.team.net
 Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

          I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and
see how far you get.
 Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"  wrote:
    Hello Jean   I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey
information should be shared with everyone as only then does the
interest in the marques increases.   Hoo Roo   Patrick Quinn     

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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 14 10:09:50 2021
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2021 17:09:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
References: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
Message-ID: <853960547.1305969.1613322590429@mail.yahoo.com>

 Steve
? ?35603 is still owned by me and is still and original unmolsted car that has one re paint but has never been apart. ?The "Blue Baby" since 1981

JoeBN1 #923BN2 Factory 100MBJ8?    On Sunday, February 14, 2021, 10:55:11 AM EST, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide acomplete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including allprevious owners recorded and all of the car's details.? Forthose who inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registryprovides the details of the car and the location of previous ownersand their dates of ownership, but no names or other personal data.
If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contactme directly.
Thanks,?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC USA



-----------------------------------------
From: "warthodson--- via Healeys"
To: "larry at patersondesign.ca", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au","vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com","healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc:
Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

It is my understanding that the majority of theregistries will share general information concerning the modelsthey are collecting information about, such as we have seen on thisforum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific ownerinformation. They will often act as intermediaries to assistindividuals, for example trying to locate a specific car orowner,when appropriate.
What information have you requested but notreceived & what registry was involved???Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: larry at patersondesign.ca
To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron<vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>;healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still outthere

? I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registriesand see how far you get.
Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & CarolineQuinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
?Hello Jean?I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healeyinformation should be shared with everyone as only then does theinterest in the marques increases.?Hoo Roo?Patrick Quinn?
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Feb 15 01:49:51 2021
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 19:49:51 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
References: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
Message-ID: <AA325EAF-5BCB-45A7-B640-1671D50340C5@gmail.com>

Steve, 
You do a wonderful job, and provide an invaluable service to the Healey community. 
You?ve reunited stolen cars with their rightful owners, and proven / disproven the provenance of many BJ8?s. 
Thanks for everything you?ve done for the past 25 plus years 
You?re a legend mate. 
Sincerely 
Chris Dimmock. 

> On 15 Feb 2021, at 2:55 am, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all previous owners recorded and all of the car's details.  For those who inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates of ownership, but no names or other personal data.
> 
> If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me directly.
> 
> Thanks, 
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC USA
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "warthodson--- via Healeys"
> To: "larry at patersondesign.ca", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au", "vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com", "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
> 
> It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will share general information concerning the models they are collecting information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying to locate a specific car or owner,
> when appropriate.
> What information have you requested but not received & what registry was involved?  
> Gary
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: larry at patersondesign.ca
> To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
> 
>   I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
> Larry
> 
> On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>  
> Hello Jean
>  
> I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.
>  
> Hoo Roo
>  
> Patrick Quinn
>  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> 
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Mon Feb 15 10:23:22 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 12:23:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <AA325EAF-5BCB-45A7-B640-1671D50340C5@gmail.com>
References: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
 <AA325EAF-5BCB-45A7-B640-1671D50340C5@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8FE3171D-C21E-4077-A030-E937097E840F@rogers.com>

May I second that. Steve helped me discover the true provenance of my BJ8, and it had a checkered past that made that difficult.
A valuable resource!

Stephen, BJ8

> On Feb 15, 2021, at 3:49 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Steve, 
> You do a wonderful job, and provide an invaluable service to the Healey community. 
> You?ve reunited stolen cars with their rightful owners, and proven / disproven the provenance of many BJ8?s. 
> Thanks for everything you?ve done for the past 25 plus years 
> You?re a legend mate. 
> Sincerely 
> Chris Dimmock. 
> 
>> On 15 Feb 2021, at 2:55 am, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all previous owners recorded and all of the car's details.  For those who inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates of ownership, but no names or other personal data.
>> 
>> If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me directly.
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>> Havelock, NC USA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------
>> 
>> From: "warthodson--- via Healeys"
>> To: "larry at patersondesign.ca", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au", "vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com", "healeys at autox.team.net"
>> Cc:
>> Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
>> 
>> It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will share general information concerning the models they are collecting information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying to locate a specific car or owner,
>> when appropriate.
>> What information have you requested but not received & what registry was involved?  
>> Gary
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: larry at patersondesign.ca
>> To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
>> 
>>   I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
>> Larry
>> 
>> On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>  
>> Hello Jean
>>  
>> I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.
>>  
>> Hoo Roo
>>  
>> Patrick Quinn
>>  
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Feb 15 14:53:17 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 21:53:17 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
Message-ID: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Interesting item:-

 
<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/austin-healey-100-6-3000-car-parts/143947511729?
hash=item2183f0b7b1%3Ag%3A6pgAAOSw46ZgHrbo&LH_BO=1&autorefresh=true> austin
healey 100/6 3000 car parts | eBay

 

But not for me.

Simon

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Feb 15 16:34:57 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 23:34:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>

More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely.Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 4:53 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

<!--#yiv9965022588 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9965022588 #yiv9965022588 p.yiv9965022588MsoNormal, #yiv9965022588 li.yiv9965022588MsoNormal, #yiv9965022588 div.yiv9965022588MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv9965022588 span.yiv9965022588EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9965022588 .yiv9965022588MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9965022588 div.yiv9965022588WordSection1 {}-->Interesting item:-austin healey 100/6 3000 car parts | eBay ?But not for me.Simon_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From gilrockwell at gmail.com  Mon Feb 15 16:44:14 2021
From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 18:44:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>

Hi Perry,

 

A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.  I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.

I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.  As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.  

 

Gil

61 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 

More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.  The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. 

Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work? 

Perry





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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Feb 15 16:51:30 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 23:51:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv7350452714 #yiv7350452714 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7350452714 #yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714MsoNormal, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714MsoNormal, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 a:link, #yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7350452714 a:visited, #yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msonormal, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msonormal, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msochpdefault, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msochpdefault, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714emailstyle17 {}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msonormal1, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msonormal1, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv7350452714 .yiv7350452714MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714WordSection1 {}#yiv7350452714 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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 _______________________________________________
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Feb 15 16:51:30 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2021 23:51:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv7350452714 #yiv7350452714 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7350452714 #yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714MsoNormal, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714MsoNormal, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 a:link, #yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7350452714 a:visited, #yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msonormal, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msonormal, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msochpdefault, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msochpdefault, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714emailstyle17 {}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msonormal1, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msonormal1, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv7350452714 p.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1, #yiv7350452714 li.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1, #yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv7350452714 span.yiv7350452714EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv7350452714 .yiv7350452714MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv7350452714 div.yiv7350452714WordSection1 {}#yiv7350452714 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 16 10:06:18 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2021 09:06:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqP0WkEg_Soswwa6ZM6WJJm=4o+Bf0gNpTD27ghHAb_VKQ@mail.gmail.com>

It appears to me that the intake manifold is a basic "gooseneck" weber
inlet manifold for left hand drive cars....... if that helps in any way to
explain its origins.

On Mon, Feb 15, 2021 at 1:53 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Interesting item:-
>
> austin healey 100/6 3000 car parts | eBay
> <https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/austin-healey-100-6-3000-car-parts/143947511729?hash=item2183f0b7b1%3Ag%3A6pgAAOSw46ZgHrbo&LH_BO=1&autorefresh=true>
>
>
>
> But not for me.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Feb 16 20:10:58 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 16:10:58 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <8FE3171D-C21E-4077-A030-E937097E840F@rogers.com>
References: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
 <AA325EAF-5BCB-45A7-B640-1671D50340C5@gmail.com>
 <8FE3171D-C21E-4077-A030-E937097E840F@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <000201d704da$852d9e60$8f88db20$@xtra.co.nz>

I wholeheartedly endorse Chris and Stephen?s well-deserved compliments to Mr Byers.

He is a pleasure to work with.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, 16 February 2021 6:23 a.m.
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Cc: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

 

May I second that. Steve helped me discover the true provenance of my BJ8, and it had a checkered past that made that difficult.

A valuable resource!

 

Stephen, BJ8





On Feb 15, 2021, at 3:49 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

 

Steve, 

You do a wonderful job, and provide an invaluable service to the Healey community. 

You?ve reunited stolen cars with their rightful owners, and proven / disproven the provenance of many BJ8?s. 

Thanks for everything you?ve done for the past 25 plus years 

You?re a legend mate. 

Sincerely 

Chris Dimmock. 





On 15 Feb 2021, at 2:55 am, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

?To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all previous owners recorded and all of the car's details.  For those who inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates of ownership, but no names or other personal data. 

 

If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me directly.

 

Thanks, 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC USA

 

 

 

-----------------------------------------

From: "warthodson--- via Healeys"
To: "larry at patersondesign.ca <mailto:larry at patersondesign.ca> ", "p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> ", "vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> ", "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "
Cc:
Sent: Thursday February 11 2021 1:18:35PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

It is my understanding that the majority of the registries will share general information concerning the models they are collecting information about, such as we have seen on this forum recently. They won't share (nor should they) specific owner information. They will often act as intermediaries to assist individuals, for example trying to locate a specific car or owner, 

when appropriate.

What information have you requested but not received & what registry was involved?  

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: larry at patersondesign.ca <mailto:larry at patersondesign.ca> 
To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> ; Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> >; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2021 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

  I couldn't agree more. Try and contact the registries and see how far you get.
Larry

On Thu, 11 Feb 2021 15:37:00 +1100, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> > wrote:
  

Hello Jean

 

I am a believer that Healey and Austin-Healey information should be shared with everyone as only then does the interest in the marques increases.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

 

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com

 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb 16 22:08:24 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 05:08:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?? I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb 16 22:40:53 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 13:40:53 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKxFyUAWs-VGTsRT1oSXrSBUwGHkaJuDMdrZ64Ax4Wu6A@mail.gmail.com>

You eke them through the hole bit by bit using a slotted screwdriver,
taking care not to push too hard.  It'll get in there easier than you think.

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 1:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place
> for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the
> life of me I can't remember how I did it.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Feb 16 23:33:44 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 17:33:44 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKxFyUAWs-VGTsRT1oSXrSBUwGHkaJuDMdrZ64Ax4Wu6A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKxFyUAWs-VGTsRT1oSXrSBUwGHkaJuDMdrZ64Ax4Wu6A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010401d704f6$d7e5da70$87b18f50$@tpg.com.au>

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 17 February 2021 4:41 PM
To: Michael MacLean
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings

 

You eke them through the hole bit by bit using a slotted screwdriver, taking care not to push too hard.  It'll get in there easier than you think.

 

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 1:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.

Mike MacLean

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Feb 16 23:58:19 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 17:58:19 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <010401d704f6$d7e5da70$87b18f50$@tpg.com.au>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKxFyUAWs-VGTsRT1oSXrSBUwGHkaJuDMdrZ64Ax4Wu6A@mail.gmail.com>
 <010401d704f6$d7e5da70$87b18f50$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <011001d704fa$46cb6970$d4623c50$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Alan

 

I find that as one gets older the body is not supple enough to get to the spot and then the eyesight isn?t as it used to be and the arms are not long enough. Then even with my special magnifying glasses I still can?t curl myself up into a ball to reach. With none of the kids here any longer and the grandkids too young it?s one of those jobs that are too difficult for words.

 

The easiest time was when the front shroud was off.

 

Actually last time I took the parcel shelf out and propped myself up with lots of cushions and used a blunt straight slot screwdriver.

 

Perseverance is called for.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 17 February 2021 4:41 PM
To: Michael MacLean
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings

 

You eke them through the hole bit by bit using a slotted screwdriver, taking care not to push too hard.  It'll get in there easier than you think.

 

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 1:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.

Mike MacLean

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 02:55:02 2021
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 20:55:02 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <45A0B23A-5AF8-4B7F-AAB0-C8D35882586E@gmail.com>

Lube, lube and more lube. 
And the knowledge that a basic salary car assembly employee was doing this a hundred an hour, every day, 60 odd years ago, with a blunt screwdriver 
Seriously.  
I used a really slippery Gel silicone tyre polish  Its less than 10 minutes to do all 3 
Best
Chris 

>> On 17 Feb 2021, at 4:14 pm, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> ?Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.
> Mike MacLean
> 
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Feb 17 03:09:41 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 11:09:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <45A0B23A-5AF8-4B7F-AAB0-C8D35882586E@gmail.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <45A0B23A-5AF8-4B7F-AAB0-C8D35882586E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <895f96d7-d961-14ea-1612-e3836efc8e91@chello.nl>

Warming up the bushes or a high ambient temperature together with a good 
silicon lubricant will help

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 17-2-2021 om 10:55 schreef Chris Dimmock via Healeys:
> Lube, lube and more lube.
> And the knowledge that a basic salary car assembly employee was doing 
> this a hundred an hour, every day, 60 odd years ago, with a blunt 
> screwdriver
> Seriously.
> I used a really slippery Gel silicone tyre polish ?Its less than 10 
> minutes to do all 3
> Best
> Chris
>
>> On 17 Feb 2021, at 4:14 pm, Michael MacLean via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in 
>> place for my BN2 wiper motor?? I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, 
>> but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
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>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 06:08:22 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 13:08:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <125879494.2504931.1613567303001@mail.yahoo.com>

MichaelThe "how to" has been explained. The "why it is so difficult" is another story. More than 55 years ago when our BN2 was just approaching the grand old age of 10, the wiper motor, when energized, was banging around behind the dashboard. The rubber bushes were in need of replacement. Was able, after a long wait, to obtain replacements from a BMC dealer. As I recall the replacements were so soft and supple that they just pushed into place with my fingers. Not the case when parts started to be reproduced for or by venders of the 1970s- and later. With harder rubber compounds and the task was much more tedious.?Speaking of waiting a long time to get parts in the old days, needed a water pump in 1966 and it took more than 3 months for the dealer to obtain one from England.?Like waiting for parts back then or pushing bushings into place today, it requires more patience then I (we) have today.??Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2021 12:08 am
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings

Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?? I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.Mike MacLean

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 17 07:57:28 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 14:57:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <010401d704f6$d7e5da70$87b18f50$@tpg.com.au>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKxFyUAWs-VGTsRT1oSXrSBUwGHkaJuDMdrZ64Ax4Wu6A@mail.gmail.com>,
 <010401d704f6$d7e5da70$87b18f50$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB250754B5DAD7C7A461297905D1869@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

One also has to find out what is the best place to purchase these, some of the suppliers have these available but their rubber bushings are as hard as the rubber supplied for the exhaust mounting brackets while others are soft like the originals.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn<mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Sent: February 17, 2021 12:34 AM
To: 'Alan Seigrist'<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>; 'Michael MacLean'<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings



From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 17 February 2021 4:41 PM
To: Michael MacLean
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings

You eke them through the hole bit by bit using a slotted screwdriver, taking care not to push too hard.  It'll get in there easier than you think.

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 1:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.
Mike MacLean
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 08:18:08 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 15:18:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there
In-Reply-To: <000201d704da$852d9e60$8f88db20$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <2230447caef76d176095378355be7717e1cdce4e@webmail>
 <AA325EAF-5BCB-45A7-B640-1671D50340C5@gmail.com>
 <8FE3171D-C21E-4077-A030-E937097E840F@rogers.com>
 <000201d704da$852d9e60$8f88db20$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <1179648487.2131182.1613575088997@mail.yahoo.com>

I agree with the compliments to Mr. Byers & would add Randy Hicks, the 100 registrar to the list. The only 2 registrars I have experience with.Gary Hodson?


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Donaldson via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <s.hutchings at rogers.com>; 'Chris Dimmock' <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Feb 16, 2021 9:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there

#yiv6442052168 -- filtered {}#yiv6442052168 filtered {}#yiv6442052168 filtered {}#yiv6442052168 filtered {}#yiv6442052168 filtered {}#yiv6442052168 p.yiv6442052168MsoNormal, #yiv6442052168 li.yiv6442052168MsoNormal, #yiv6442052168 div.yiv6442052168MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv6442052168 a:link, #yiv6442052168 span.yiv6442052168MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6442052168 span.yiv6442052168EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv6442052168 .yiv6442052168MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv6442052168 filtered {}#yiv6442052168 div.yiv6442052168WordSection1 {}#yiv6442052168 I wholeheartedly endorse Chris and Stephen?s well-deserved compliments to Mr Byers.He is a pleasure to work with. ?MarkArdmore, NZ ?From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, 16 February 2021 6:23 a.m.
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Cc: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>; Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of cars BN1 -BJ8 still out there ?May I second that. Steve helped me discover the true provenance of my BJ8, and it had a checkered past that made that difficult.A valuable resource! ?Stephen, BJ8


On Feb 15, 2021, at 3:49 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: ?Steve,?You do a wonderful job, and provide an invaluable service to the Healey community.?You?ve reunited stolen cars with their rightful owners, and proven / disproven the provenance of many BJ8?s.?Thanks for everything you?ve done for the past 25 plus years?You?re a legend mate.?Sincerely?Chris Dimmock.?


On 15 Feb 2021, at 2:55 am, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?To the legitimate owner of a given BJ8, the Registry will provide a complete copy of the entry for that car if requested, including all previous owners recorded and all of the car's details.? For those who inquire about a car that they do not own, the Registry provides the details of the car and the location of previous owners and their dates of ownership, but no names or other personal data.  ?If anyone has any questions about this policy, please contact me directly. ?Thanks,?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC USA ? ? ?


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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 11:31:15 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 10:31:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNb=68Wody-BNWmbCwQ4VGRQ8y5eb5dVsX7R=yU5zJ6uQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here's my experience trying to get those rock hard bushings into the holes
on my BT7.  First, no amount of lube will allow it to happen.  I asked this
same question on this forum about 2 years ago.  Got many of the same
response - lots of lube, yada yada yada.  Finally, one poster gave me the
solution.  Slice them open on one side.  But, make the cut at an angle -
not parallel to the hole.  This way you can screw them into the mounting
hole. Using some lube will also help. I recommend K-Y jelly.

On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 9:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place
> for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the
> life of me I can't remember how I did it.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Feb 17 11:37:25 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 11:37:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNb=68Wody-BNWmbCwQ4VGRQ8y5eb5dVsX7R=yU5zJ6uQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAKkXjqNb=68Wody-BNWmbCwQ4VGRQ8y5eb5dVsX7R=yU5zJ6uQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0ee660c8-0ac7-5204-4788-a8b3d7ecf744@porterscustom.com>

..or make the hole one drill bit size larger..or two. Silicon spray very 
helpful.

On 2/17/2021 11:31 AM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> Here's my experience trying to get those rock hard bushings into the 
> holes on my BT7.? First, no amount of lube will allow it to happen.? I 
> asked this same question on this forum about 2 years ago.? Got many of 
> the same response - lots of lube, yada yada yada.? Finally, one poster 
> gave me the solution.? Slice them open on one side.? But, make the cut 
> at an angle - not parallel to the hole.? This way you can screw them 
> into the mounting hole. Using some lube will also help. I recommend 
> K-Y jelly.
>
> On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 9:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in
>     place for my BN2 wiper motor?? I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years
>     ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.
>     Mike MacLean
>
>     Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>     <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 17 17:44:00 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 00:44:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <0ee660c8-0ac7-5204-4788-a8b3d7ecf744@porterscustom.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAKkXjqNb=68Wody-BNWmbCwQ4VGRQ8y5eb5dVsX7R=yU5zJ6uQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <0ee660c8-0ac7-5204-4788-a8b3d7ecf744@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <786054380.2716221.1613609040134@mail.yahoo.com>

 As many different solutions as there are list members.? Other than finding the supplier that provides the soft rubber bushings, I like the idea of the diagonal slice.? I just don't want to spend all afternoon on a job that should take only 15 or 20 minutes to accomplish.? Believe me, my head is swimming from figuring out the wiring.? I think I have it kind of figured out, but I don't know for sure if the smoke will escape the wires the first time I turn the key.? As luck would have it, my kids ell me when I was at the parts store one afternoon while working on the MGB GT a guy in a F350 Ford truck stopped at the driveway and wanted to talk about the three British cars I have.? Turns out he lives in my housing tract and from what he says he worked for LUCAS back in the day.? I have yet to meet him, but I could sure use his help.? Most of my local club members are a two hour drive away. (San Diego AH club)? Good thing I have you guys to rely on.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 10:38:13 AM PST, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
..or make the hole one drill bit size larger..or two. Silicon spray very helpful. 
 
 On 2/17/2021 11:31 AM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
  
 
Here's my experience trying to get those rock hard bushings into the holes on my BT7.? First, no amount of lube will allow it to happen.? I asked this same question on this forum about 2 years ago.? Got many of the same response - lots of lube, yada yada yada.? Finally, one poster gave me the solution.? Slice them open on one side.? But, make the cut at an angle - not parallel to the hole.? This way you can screw them into the mounting hole. Using some lube will also help. I recommend K-Y jelly.
  
  On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 9:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?? I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it. Mike MacLean
 
 Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
 
 
  
  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 17 18:03:33 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 01:03:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>

Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.? It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.? Our friend Moss does not sell it.? I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally if I could.? I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.? Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.Mike MacLean
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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 18:14:27 2021
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 18:14:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1613610877.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

I purchased mine from RI Wiring for my BN1 and it fit perfectly.? That size cable isn't cheap?Ben Cohen?BN1, BN7,? BJ8?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Date: 2/17/21  6:04 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.? It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.? Our friend Moss does not sell it.? I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally if I could.? I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.? Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.Mike MacLean
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 18:16:19 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 09:16:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber talk - grommets
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ-Vfa9tC3TO3PM8pARNfcu6JeaSEJZae+XeJtvFpRFmg@mail.gmail.com>

All -

With all this talk about installing wiper grommet bobbins, got me thinking
- how do you install grommets on tach/speedo/oil pressure/temp sender lines
without cutting the grommets?  The grommets are impossible to fit over the
ends of these cables....

So far I am having to cut the grommets but I think there must be a better
way.

Thanks,

Alan
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 18:23:55 2021
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 17:23:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber talk - grommets
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJ-Vfa9tC3TO3PM8pARNfcu6JeaSEJZae+XeJtvFpRFmg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJ-Vfa9tC3TO3PM8pARNfcu6JeaSEJZae+XeJtvFpRFmg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Z10=z09u-eG5h+U+xCnJGoXXwKWk4drgqJ7qVaa-0cEw@mail.gmail.com>

Lubrication and patience worked for me. Plus a rounded tipped ex
screwdriver or two of different sizes and occasionally a L-shaped length of
stiff wire.

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021, 5:17 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> All -
>
> With all this talk about installing wiper grommet bobbins, got me thinking
> - how do you install grommets on tach/speedo/oil pressure/temp sender lines
> without cutting the grommets?  The grommets are impossible to fit over the
> ends of these cables....
>
> So far I am having to cut the grommets but I think there must be a better
> way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 18:37:15 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 20:37:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLS9QxjZbMi2HcbiGamtZsAd+anDTcKAwQto8dgdihvcw@mail.gmail.com>

If you can come up with the terminal ends use Harbor Freight welding cable.

M

On Wed., Feb. 17, 2021, 8:04 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 18:52:00 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 09:52:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael -

The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is
something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is
good for concours restorations.

Best Regards,

Alan

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb 17 19:24:45 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 02:24:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber talk - grommets
Message-ID: <276fdbdff2c1f9d5ade0d739da7e063c07034528@webmail>

Alan-if you purchased the gauge as new, it comes with the grommet
installed on the capillary line....they were installed before the line
was soldered in place. Aftermarket, or using a rebuilt unit, you will
have to put a cross hair cut in the center of the grommet, then push
the bulb thru. After you position it in the bulkhead it will close up
but you could put a small bit of sealer on the slits. Same technique
for the speedometer or tachometer cable. I actually took a steel
circle die cutter and punched my grommet with a hole just slightly
smaller than the size of the outer cable casings. Use Armorall to help
it slide up the line to its final position. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist via
Healeys" 
To: "Healey list"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 17 2021 5:17:19PM
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber talk - grommets

 All - 
 With all this talk about installing wiper grommet bobbins, got me
thinking - how do you install grommets on tach/speedo/oil
pressure/temp sender lines without cutting the grommets? The grommets
are impossible to fit over the ends of these cables.... 
 So far I am having to cut the grommets but I think there must be a
better way. 
 Thanks, 
 Alan
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 17 19:25:16 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 02:25:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>

 I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours standards.? At the price they charge, it better.? My car is not a concours car.? I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.? This car has sheet metal and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching numbers.? It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all but one door.? Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.? It will be stock Healey all the way.? It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the block from another, the head from another and on and on.? Even though I have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.? I am sure I will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein" around.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hi Michael -
The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is good for concours restorations.
Best Regards,
Alan
On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.? It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.? Our friend Moss does not sell it.? I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally if I could.? I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.? Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com


  
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 17 19:43:37 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 10:43:37 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

Definitely no need to get the Rhode Island cable then!  If there's one
person I'd listen to on this list it is Michael Salter.... harbour
freight it is!

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 10:25 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours
> standards.  At the price they charge, it better.  My car is not a concours
> car.  I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.  This car has sheet metal
> and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching
> numbers.  It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a
> frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all
> but one door.  Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.  It will be stock
> Healey all the way.  It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the
> block from another, the head from another and on and on.  Even though I
> have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap
> clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease
> in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.  I am sure I
> will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein"
> around.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <
> healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Michael -
>
> The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is
> something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is
> good for concours restorations.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 17 19:47:51 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 02:47:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1019107218.2734308.1613616471803@mail.yahoo.com>

 Already done.? Cable from Ebay as well as a $20 crimping tool and two eyelets from Amazon.? Total of $46.? Half of what Rhode Island Wiring wanted minus the shipping.? Thanks guys.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 6:43:51 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Michael -
Definitely no need to get the Rhode Island cable then!? If there's one person I'd listen to on this list it is Michael Salter.... harbour freight?it is!
Cheers,
Alan
On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 10:25 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

 I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours standards.? At the price they charge, it better.? My car is not a concours car.? I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.? This car has sheet metal and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching numbers.? It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all but one door.? Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.? It will be stock Healey all the way.? It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the block from another, the head from another and on and on.? Even though I have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.? I am sure I will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein" around.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hi Michael -
The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is good for concours restorations.
Best Regards,
Alan
On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.? It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.? Our friend Moss does not sell it.? I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally if I could.? I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.? Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com


  
  
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb 17 21:14:51 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 20:14:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLS9QxjZbMi2HcbiGamtZsAd+anDTcKAwQto8dgdihvcw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LLS9QxjZbMi2HcbiGamtZsAd+anDTcKAwQto8dgdihvcw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ca37b188-c56a-b167-b52c-80feaebf5337@comcast.net>

My dad was so concerned about the 'remote' batteries in our BN2 that we 
used 00 ('double-ought') welding wire with soldered terminals (we had to 
use the blue wrench to get them hot enough to tin the wires and melt the 
solder 'plug' in the terminals). Low resistance, but not very flexible.


On 2/17/2021 5:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> If you can come up with the terminal ends use Harbor Freight welding 
> cable.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Feb. 17, 2021, 8:04 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.? It's
>     a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the
>     solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.? Our friend Moss
>     does not sell it.? I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but
>     I would rather source it locally if I could.? I found it on the
>     Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.? Seems a
>     little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end
>     and a crimped eyelet on the other.
>     Mike MacLean
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 04:34:12 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 06:34:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <1019107218.2734308.1613616471803@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1019107218.2734308.1613616471803@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4HNe30pW0sCvPXj5_8i9isaFhsZ6CUmf0_-TNPrhGERQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike--

There are good reasons to choose welding over battery cable and with little
or no compromising of reliability, conductivity or safety.
However there is none to justify using cheap and crappy terminals which
invite corrosion, increase electrical resistance and hasten the day when
your car will fail to start or worse.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 9:54 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Already done.  Cable from Ebay as well as a $20 crimping tool and two
> eyelets from Amazon.  Total of $46.  Half of what Rhode Island Wiring
> wanted minus the shipping.  Thanks guys.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 6:43:51 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <
> healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Michael -
>
> Definitely no need to get the Rhode Island cable then!  If there's one
> person I'd listen to on this list it is Michael Salter.... harbour
> freight it is!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 10:25 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
> I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours
> standards.  At the price they charge, it better.  My car is not a concours
> car.  I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.  This car has sheet metal
> and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching
> numbers.  It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a
> frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all
> but one door.  Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.  It will be stock
> Healey all the way.  It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the
> block from another, the head from another and on and on.  Even though I
> have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap
> clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease
> in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.  I am sure I
> will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein"
> around.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <
> healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Michael -
>
> The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is
> something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is
> good for concours restorations.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rustyle at comcast.net  Thu Feb 18 07:50:47 2021
From: rustyle at comcast.net (rustyle at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 09:50:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <09c301d70605$781e8c30$685ba490$@comcast.net>

I always used Welding wire on my race cars!  Worked great!

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2021 9:44 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring Question

 

Michael -

 

Definitely no need to get the Rhode Island cable then!  If there's one person I'd listen to on this list it is Michael Salter.... harbour freight it is!

 

Cheers,

 

Alan

 

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 10:25 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours standards.  At the price they charge, it better.  My car is not a concours car.  I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.  This car has sheet metal and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching numbers.  It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all but one door.  Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.  It will be stock Healey all the way.  It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the block from another, the head from another and on and on.  Even though I have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.  I am sure I will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein" around.

Mike MacLean

 

On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Hi Michael -

 

The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is good for concours restorations.

 

Best Regards,

 

Alan

 

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90 for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.

Mike MacLean

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 08:32:41 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 10:32:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKBaA7c-2Ycez=EujzKNVvpNa_9a8-PArJ5WwM8E7JNfA@mail.gmail.com>

Should mention for the Concours folks that the cable that Rhode Island
supply is only a rough approximation of the original as the outer sheath is
much "coarser" on the original.

M

On Wed., Feb. 17, 2021, 9:31 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours
> standards.  At the price they charge, it better.  My car is not a concours
> car.  I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.  This car has sheet metal
> and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching
> numbers.  It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a
> frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all
> but one door.  Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.  It will be stock
> Healey all the way.  It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the
> block from another, the head from another and on and on.  Even though I
> have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap
> clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease
> in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.  I am sure I
> will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein"
> around.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <
> healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Michael -
>
> The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is
> something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is
> good for concours restorations.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Feb 18 09:53:00 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:53:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <09c301d70605$781e8c30$685ba490$@comcast.net>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTk+fMvZJVCcafxEYHnXV38hbOb8bJRuP91-6OLiaFcwR8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <09c301d70605$781e8c30$685ba490$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4+jaFOioG6vpEJEqnVnPu3hWFcFo-PyN+68ZYZQJ-KjA@mail.gmail.com>

Shortly after buying my car in 1998 I replaced all cables (+ & -) running
from the battery with marine-grade tinned battery cables and soldered,
spiked and shrink-wrapped the plated terminals.  I have not had a problem
in 20 years.
If I were to do it again or replace I would probably use welding cable
simply because it is easier to route through the chassis apertures, and it
can handle more current since there is more copper as a result of the finer
and more numerous wires.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:51 AM <rustyle at comcast.net> wrote:

> I always used Welding wire on my race cars!  Worked great!
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Alan
> Seigrist
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 17, 2021 9:44 PM
> *To:* Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wiring Question
>
>
>
> Michael -
>
>
>
> Definitely no need to get the Rhode Island cable then!  If there's one
> person I'd listen to on this list it is Michael Salter.... harbour
> freight it is!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 10:25 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
> I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours
> standards.  At the price they charge, it better.  My car is not a concours
> car.  I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.  This car has sheet metal
> and so many parts from other cars I can hardly claim even matching
> numbers.  It did not even have a chassis ID plate when I bought it, just a
> frame with some suspension and some sheet metal which i had to place all
> but one door.  Make no mistake , it is not a resto-mod.  It will be stock
> Healey all the way.  It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the
> block from another, the head from another and on and on.  Even though I
> have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use cheap
> clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries just for ease
> in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not concerned.  I am sure I
> will still get the full Healey experience driving this "Frankenstein"
> around.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist <
> healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Michael -
>
>
>
> The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell you is
> something that would be very close to original, so usually their stuff is
> good for concours restorations.
>
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.  It's a large
> gauge wire that runs under the car from the battery to the solenoid behind
> the engine as you probably know.  Our friend Moss does not sell it.  I can
> find it from our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
> if I could.  I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but they want $90
> for it.  Seems a little excessive for a single wire with a battery clamp on
> one end and a crimped eyelet on the other.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Feb 18 09:54:18 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:54:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKBaA7c-2Ycez=EujzKNVvpNa_9a8-PArJ5WwM8E7JNfA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <598961348.2720856.1613610213214.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <598961348.2720856.1613610213214@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkLq-LsDbSaBxp7JKSg15Qavz9=nyEwBxf60MSuFcMPCuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <247852355.2735464.1613615116509@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKBaA7c-2Ycez=EujzKNVvpNa_9a8-PArJ5WwM8E7JNfA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <15f9cba7-5af0-c36c-8355-518eeabddc1c@earthlink.net>

Michael,

Any experience with the wire sold by British Wiring?? They sell it with 
and without the braid.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/18/21 10:32 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Should mention for the Concours folks that the cable that Rhode Island 
> supply is only a rough approximation of the original as the outer 
> sheath is much "coarser" on the original.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Feb. 17, 2021, 9:31 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I'm sure the wiring from Rhode Island Wiring meets with concours
>     standards.? At the price they charge, it better.? My car is not a
>     concours car.? I am resurrecting a Frankenstein of a BN2.? This
>     car has sheet metal and so many parts from other cars I can hardly
>     claim even matching numbers.? It did not even have a chassis ID
>     plate when I bought it, just a frame with some suspension and some
>     sheet metal which i had to place all but one door.? Make no
>     mistake , it is not a resto-mod.? It will be stock Healey all the
>     way.? It's jsut the sheet metal is from several cars, the block
>     from another, the head from another and on and on.? Even though I
>     have a bag of original helmet head connectors, I will probably use
>     cheap clamp on battery connectors on my two repro 6 volt batteries
>     just for ease in making the cable and easy replacement. I am not
>     concerned.? I am sure I will still get the full Healey experience
>     driving this "Frankenstein" around.
>     Mike MacLean
>
>     On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 5:52:13 PM PST, Alan Seigrist
>     <healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>
>     Hi Michael -
>
>     The thing with Rhode Island wiring is that what they would sell
>     you is something that would be very close to original, so usually
>     their stuff is good for concours restorations.
>
>     Best Regards,
>
>     Alan
>
>     On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 9:04 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>         Who sells the battery to solenoid wire assembly for the BN2.
>         It's a large gauge wire that runs under the car from the
>         battery to the solenoid behind the engine as you probably
>         know.? Our friend Moss does not sell it.? I can find it from
>         our overseas suppliers, but I would rather source it locally
>         if I could.? I found it on the Rhode Island wiring site, but
>         they want $90 for it.? Seems a little excessive for a single
>         wire with a battery clamp on one end and a crimped eyelet on
>         the other.
>         Mike MacLean
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
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>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>


From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Feb 18 20:12:45 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2021 03:12:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings
In-Reply-To: <786054380.2716221.1613609040134@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368809130.2428526.1613538504402.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368809130.2428526.1613538504402@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAKkXjqNb=68Wody-BNWmbCwQ4VGRQ8y5eb5dVsX7R=yU5zJ6uQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <0ee660c8-0ac7-5204-4788-a8b3d7ecf744@porterscustom.com>,
 <786054380.2716221.1613609040134@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213046B81AF1E64C68CB35AA5849@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I?ve had some success with the harder rubber compounds softening them with heat. Try 10 seconds in the microwave. May have increase the time, but it doesn?t take much.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2021 12:44 AM
To: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Bushings

As many different solutions as there are list members.  Other than finding the supplier that provides the soft rubber bushings, I like the idea of the diagonal slice.  I just don't want to spend all afternoon on a job that should take only 15 or 20 minutes to accomplish.  Believe me, my head is swimming from figuring out the wiring.  I think I have it kind of figured out, but I don't know for sure if the smoke will escape the wires the first time I turn the key.  As luck would have it, my kids ell me when I was at the parts store one afternoon while working on the MGB GT a guy in a F350 Ford truck stopped at the driveway and wanted to talk about the three British cars I have.  Turns out he lives in my housing tract and from what he says he worked for LUCAS back in the day.  I have yet to meet him, but I could sure use his help.  Most of my local club members are a two hour drive away. (San Diego AH club)  Good thing I have you guys to rely on.
Mike MacLean

On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 10:38:13 AM PST, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:



..or make the hole one drill bit size larger..or two. Silicon spray very helpful.

On 2/17/2021 11:31 AM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
Here's my experience trying to get those rock hard bushings into the holes on my BT7.  First, no amount of lube will allow it to happen.  I asked this same question on this forum about 2 years ago.  Got many of the same response - lots of lube, yada yada yada.  Finally, one poster gave me the solution.  Slice them open on one side.  But, make the cut at an angle - not parallel to the hole.  This way you can screw them into the mounting hole. Using some lube will also help. I recommend K-Y jelly.

On Tue, Feb 16, 2021 at 9:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Can someone tell me how to get those humongous rubber bushings in place for my BN2 wiper motor?  I did it for the Bugeye 20+ years ago, but for the life of me I can't remember how I did it.
Mike MacLean

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From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Feb 20 14:29:25 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 16:29:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1613856576.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

I thought I had photos of every bit of my car before disassembly, but I can?t find one showing this pair of brackets.  Nothing in the Moss catalog seems to match, and there are no illustrations in the factory parts list.  Undoubtedly chassis-related?but where?
TIA,
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Feb 20 14:41:50 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 16:41:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <20210220213021.EF422A09BB@autox.team.net>
References: <20210220213021.EF422A09BB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1d310167-3fc3-7e72-6417-bd7d5941c911@earthlink.net>

Sarah,

Photo?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/20/21 4:29 PM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
>
> I thought I had photos of every bit of my car before disassembly, but 
> I can?t find one showing this pair of brackets.? Nothing in the Moss 
> catalog seems to match, and there are no illustrations in the factory 
> parts list. Undoubtedly chassis-related?but where?
>
> TIA,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Feb 20 14:47:39 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 16:47:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1613857714.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
Sarah

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Feb 20 15:04:15 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:04:15 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
References: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>

Sarah,

A guess - rear axle/spring bracket.? The U bolts go through the four 
holes.? Shock link attaches to the single hole on the 90 degree 
section.? Large center hole - pilots on the spring. Assume the two 
springs are mirror images of each other.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/20/21 4:47 PM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
>
> Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
>
> Sarah
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Feb 20 15:05:15 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 09:05:15 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <20210220214931.C0140A0BC3@autox.team.net>
References: <20210220214931.C0140A0BC3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003d01d707d4$78aa3200$69fe9600$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Warm sunny late summer?s day here.

 

Looks like one of the brackets that hold the Panhard rod in place.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains

Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S.Carr via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, 21 February 2021 8:48 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket

 

Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)

Sarah

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 



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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sat Feb 20 15:44:18 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 22:44:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <20210220214944.CF744A0C25@autox.team.net>
References: <20210220214944.CF744A0C25@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLUnET63XnrL91-zQXWJnXc2TUngTshmf7bfAe4SnpJd_A@mail.gmail.com>

Sarah

I agree that looks like a bracket to fit on the rear spring central pad and
with the other hole to fit an anti-sway bar. It is simar to that fitted on
early BN1 but not the same

On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 at 21:54, S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
>
> Sarah
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Feb 20 18:16:11 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 20:16:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>
References: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
 <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKckjhCUwK0XaFkFvGxiwjKMHC4aXbC0CHhfX7t4dgrvg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes ... Bob is correct.

M

On Sat., Feb. 20, 2021, 5:04 p.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Sarah,
>
> A guess - rear axle/spring bracket.  The U bolts go through the four
> holes.  Shock link attaches to the single hole on the 90 degree
> section.  Large center hole - pilots on the spring. Assume the two
> springs are mirror images of each other.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 2/20/21 4:47 PM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
> >
> > Sarah
> >
> > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> > Windows 10
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Sat Feb 20 19:18:24 2021
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2021 21:18:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKckjhCUwK0XaFkFvGxiwjKMHC4aXbC0CHhfX7t4dgrvg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
 <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>
 <CAB3i7LKckjhCUwK0XaFkFvGxiwjKMHC4aXbC0CHhfX7t4dgrvg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9bb4498b-204b-5fb2-e089-acba61d3712a@comcast.net>

For MG TD/TF since Sarah has a TD, I think.? MGA and MGB are similar.? 
They are handed.

On 2/20/2021 8:16 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Yes ... Bob is correct.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Feb. 20, 2021, 5:04 p.m. Bob Haskell, 
> <rchaskell at earthlink.net <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>> wrote:
>
>     Sarah,
>
>     A guess - rear axle/spring bracket.? The U bolts go through the four
>     holes.? Shock link attaches to the single hole on the 90 degree
>     section.? Large center hole - pilots on the spring. Assume the two
>     springs are mirror images of each other.
>
>     Cheers,
>
>     Bob Haskell
>     Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
>     On 2/20/21 4:47 PM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
>     >
>     > Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
>     >
>     > Sarah
>     >
>     > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
>     <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for
>     > Windows 10
>     >
>     >
>     > _______________________________________________
>     > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     > Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>     >
>     > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>     >
>     > Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>     >
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>     >
>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Feb 20 19:21:13 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 02:21:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <20210220215017.77533A0CB4@autox.team.net>
References: <20210220215017.77533A0CB4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1846808251.719369.1613874073231@mail.yahoo.com>

SarahCouplke questions. Is you car a early spiral bevel type or later hypoid rear?? Do the holes on these mystery plates line up with the leaf spring retaining plate holes that fit under the leaf spring.? Those plates are boxed (for lack of a better word), not a flat plate but a pressed shape that looks like a rectangular bowl. with five holes in it.?Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Feb 20, 2021 4:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket

<!--#yiv0332632056 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0332632056 #yiv0332632056 p.yiv0332632056MsoNormal, #yiv0332632056 li.yiv0332632056MsoNormal, #yiv0332632056 div.yiv0332632056MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv0332632056 a:link, #yiv0332632056 span.yiv0332632056MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0332632056 .yiv0332632056MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv0332632056 div.yiv0332632056WordSection1 {}-->Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)Sarah ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?_______________________________________________
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 20 20:37:33 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 03:37:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <9bb4498b-204b-5fb2-e089-acba61d3712a@comcast.net>
References: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
 <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>
 <CAB3i7LKckjhCUwK0XaFkFvGxiwjKMHC4aXbC0CHhfX7t4dgrvg@mail.gmail.com>,
 <9bb4498b-204b-5fb2-e089-acba61d3712a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507DB62E4C12764146D14E9D1829@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

I just checked the TD/TF Moss catalogue and it certainly seems that it is from one of these model. I have never seen one of these on an Austin-Healey.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Charlie Baldwin<mailto:mgcharlie at comcast.net>
Sent: February 20, 2021 8:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] mystery bracket


For MG TD/TF since Sarah has a TD, I think.  MGA and MGB are similar.  They are handed.
On 2/20/2021 8:16 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
Yes ... Bob is correct.

M

On Sat., Feb. 20, 2021, 5:04 p.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net<mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>> wrote:
Sarah,

A guess - rear axle/spring bracket.  The U bolts go through the four
holes.  Shock link attaches to the single hole on the 90 degree
section.  Large center hole - pilots on the spring. Assume the two
springs are mirror images of each other.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/20/21 4:47 PM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
>
> Oops ? here?s the photo (it?s been a long, cold day?.)
>
> Sarah
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cc28b1ae696544e5716cf08d8d60f2574%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637494707822519476%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=MKJ3yMUYF%2FiDuRXo4fbOno%2FzVLoFbFBWlewcRBnFpi8%3D&reserved=0>> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cc28b1ae696544e5716cf08d8d60f2574%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637494707822529464%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=AcOFk%2FDm%2BL9XI47fxNcRr8dsdc%2FYEvvRmqZc6MO2Bno%3D&reserved=0>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 20 22:28:25 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 13:28:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>

All -

On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came off the
upper part of the valve guide.

It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one sells.  I
assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, correct?  It's already
half disintegrated and I'm not really worried but would prefer to not  put
it back on and have old rubber parts getting into the oil.

Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.

Best,

Alan
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 10:16:41 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 09:16:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>

Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one 
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the 
tailpipe.

By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.

Bob


On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came 
> off the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one 
> sells.? I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, 
> correct?? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried 
> but would prefer to not? put it back on and have old rubber parts 
> getting into the oil.
>
> Am I correct to?not put it back on?? No one seems to sell these.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>


From manifold at telus.net  Sun Feb 21 10:27:35 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 09:27:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AC480079E6E84177B93D7986047AE2C2@AllInOne>

I had head on my AH 3000 done recently and the engine shop highly
recommended the "top hat" style valve seals. If you are doing the head
yourself I would suggest taking a valve and the valve springs to a good
engine shop and they will be able to size the "top seal" and source them for
you.

Harold 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2021 9:17 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals

Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
tailpipe.

By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.

Bob


On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came 
> off the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one 
> sells.? I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, correct?? 
> It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried but would 
> prefer to not? put it back on and have old rubber parts getting into 
> the oil.
>
> Am I correct to?not put it back on?? No one seems to sell these.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sun Feb 21 10:35:03 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 17:35:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVvfZq57d+gCgyKLQs0Kd+pr_P_vq=5iNAXcM2RrwEH0g@mail.gmail.com>

Alan

I am not sure that I understand 'original'?

Most A90 Atlantic had single valve springs as does the early 100.
Double valve springs could be fitted to an A90 and some owners have done
so. The double types had different locator rings next to the head and at
the top more fitting to locate the double springs. The top oil seal was
located differently. There was very little in common between the single and
double spring setups. I would suggest fitting the double version because it
was supposed to eliminate valve bounce.

What I guess that what you are seeing is a non-stangard extra seal;
possibly to reduce oil being burnt that gets down worn guides. I have seen
firms selling these to reduce oil consumption.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 05:31, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came off
> the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one sells.
> I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, correct?  It's
> already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried but would prefer to
> not  put it back on and have old rubber parts getting into the oil.
>
> Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Feb 21 12:27:00 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 14:27:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>

In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no
means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."

About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
> tailpipe.
>
> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came
> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
> >
> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one
> > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
> > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried
> > but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts
> > getting into the oil.
> >
> > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Feb 21 13:37:59 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 15:37:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>

Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the
rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently
disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life
which originals are now reaching.

M

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no
> means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>
> About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
> and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
> distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
> could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
> thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
> remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
> the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
> pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
> magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
> rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
>> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
>> tailpipe.
>>
>> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came
>> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>> >
>> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one
>> > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
>> > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried
>> > but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts
>> > getting into the oil.
>> >
>> > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
>> >
>> > Best,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 21 13:46:26 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 12:46:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>

re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which 
originals are now reaching."

I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh 
environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts 
with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less 
antagonistic to rubber.

Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 
'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original 
plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires 
rivets)?


On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of 
> the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I 
> recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. 
> Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if these 
> things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:?
>     "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>
>     About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
>     oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard
>     black plastic distributed throughout the sump. This was a head
>     scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic in the engine's
>     interior yet there it was.? After thinking?about it further I
>     decided that it could only have been the remains of the rubber
>     timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled the front
>     cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent?and the chain
>     pretty loose.? I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
>     job--and magically a chattering sound that had been?appearing at
>     certain rpm's?disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the
>     loose timing chain.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>     On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
>         they're one
>         piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke
>         from the
>         tailpipe.
>
>         By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an
>         engine.
>
>         Bob
>
>
>         On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>         > All -
>         >
>         > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this
>         seal came
>         > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>         >
>         > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which
>         no one
>         > sells.? I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
>         > correct?? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really
>         worried
>         > but would prefer to not? put it back on and have old rubber
>         parts
>         > getting into the oil.
>         >
>         > Am I correct to?not put it back on?? No one seems to sell these.
>         >
>         > Best,
>         >
>         > Alan
>         >
>         >
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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>
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>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Feb 21 14:50:54 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 16:50:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B75HXLJ3atEc1koY2uK51mwauWOn3nOVvgfSnjUND=PBA@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

The new rubber timing chain tensioner came with installation instructions
which in part said "Replace every 50-75 years".

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:38 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the
> rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently
> disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
> original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life
> which originals are now reaching.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no
>> means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>>
>> About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
>> and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
>> distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
>> could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
>> thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
>> remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
>> the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
>> pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>> magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
>> rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
>>> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
>>> tailpipe.
>>>
>>> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> > All -
>>> >
>>> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came
>>> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>>> >
>>> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one
>>> > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
>>> > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried
>>> > but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts
>>> > getting into the oil.
>>> >
>>> > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
>>> >
>>> > Best,
>>> >
>>> > Alan
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Feb 22 08:00:39 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 10:00:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
 <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob wrote:  "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly
less antagonistic to rubber."
--------------------------------------------
50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.
Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
> originals are now reaching."
>
> I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh
> environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with
> a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic
> to rubber.
>
> Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger'
> plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one
> of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
> On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the
> rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently
> disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
> original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life
> which originals are now reaching.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no
>> means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>>
>> About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
>> and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
>> distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
>> could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
>> thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
>> remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
>> the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
>> pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>> magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
>> rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
>>> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
>>> tailpipe.
>>>
>>> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> > All -
>>> >
>>> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came
>>> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>>> >
>>> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one
>>> > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
>>> > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried
>>> > but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts
>>> > getting into the oil.
>>> >
>>> > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
>>> >
>>> > Best,
>>> >
>>> > Alan
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 22 09:08:16 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 08:08:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
 <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d4cc4af7-c368-4788-5aac-ef518a95bbc6@comcast.net>

That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter 
gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient 
electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to 
help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where 
light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo 
cables and Bendix gears on starters come to mind).

I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; 
cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years 
before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and 
is going strong (but shows her age).

So, Alan, what did you decide?


On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Bob wrote: "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a 
> pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any 
> rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is 
> supposedly less antagonistic to rubber."
> --------------------------------------------
> 50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.
> Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
>     originals are now reaching."
>
>     I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty
>     harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
>     rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
>     supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.
>
>     Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
>     'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
>     original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried
>     this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
>     On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>>     Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
>>     of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I
>>     recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed.
>>     Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if
>>     these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.
>>
>>     M
>>
>>     On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
>>         said:? "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
>>         of an engine."
>>
>>         About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace
>>         the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
>>         very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.?
>>         This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic
>>         in the engine's interior yet there it was.? After
>>         thinking?about it further I decided that it could only have
>>         been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and
>>         sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that the
>>         tensioner was non-existent?and the chain pretty loose.? I
>>         replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>>         magically a chattering sound that had been?appearing at
>>         certain rpm's?disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of
>>         the loose timing chain.
>>
>>         Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>         On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell
>>         <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>             Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I
>>             think they're one
>>             piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
>>             smoke from the
>>             tailpipe.
>>
>>             By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
>>             an engine.
>>
>>             Bob
>>
>>
>>             On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>             > All -
>>             >
>>             > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
>>             this seal came
>>             > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>>             >
>>             > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
>>             which no one
>>             > sells.? I assume the best thing is to remove it and
>>             chuck it,
>>             > correct?? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not
>>             really worried
>>             > but would prefer to not? put it back on and have old
>>             rubber parts
>>             > getting into the oil.
>>             >
>>             > Am I correct to?not put it back on?? No one seems to
>>             sell these.
>>             >
>>             > Best,
>>             >
>>             > Alan
>>             >
>>             >
>>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Feb 22 10:10:17 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 12:10:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>

I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of 6
cylinder timing chain tensioners.
As far as I know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the cost of
the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market. They are
apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover package.
These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a
lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any others
that I have used.
In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a problem
on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common on higher
milage ones.
My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly better
and are they worth the extra cost?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 22 10:22:09 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 09:22:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e2ad5474-9c87-0ff7-30cd-3f0041a9a839@comcast.net>

I can't answer your question definitively, but can say--in 
hindsight--that I wish I'd installed DWM's upgraded tensioner on my 
BJ8's last overhaul. Expensive (relatively), sure, but failure of this 
part would be near-catastrophic, and I've heard anecdotally that 
aftermarket versions have failed (and I have an inherent distrust of any 
aftermarket part with rubber). How much is (relative) peace of mind worth?

I installed DWM's flexible oil pump pipe in my BN2 on DWM's 'advice' and 
I'm glad I did. I know of at least one failure of the original, metal 
pipe (from someone on this list).


On 2/22/2021 9:10 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of 
> 6 cylinder timing chain tensioners.
> As far as I?know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the 
> cost of the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market. 
> They are apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover 
> package.
> These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a 
> lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any 
> others that I have used.
> In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a 
> problem on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common 
> on higher milage ones.
> My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly 
> better and are they worth the extra?cost?
>


From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Feb 22 13:08:53 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 15:08:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
In-Reply-To: <e2ad5474-9c87-0ff7-30cd-3f0041a9a839@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>
 <e2ad5474-9c87-0ff7-30cd-3f0041a9a839@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006301d70956$8b2abbb0$a1803310$@sympatico.ca>

The DW tensioner is significantly different from either of the two  that Michael is referring to, and substantial more expensive than either.  I did some "research" on the web (as a scientist I struggle calling that research) when investigating tensioners for my current rebuild and from what I can figure out there are at least three tensioners on the market that will work.  This same tensioner fits MGBs, Jaguar XK engines and Land Rovers, and the majority of chatter on the web is from Jag and MGB owners.

1.	This is the ?base? model which is readily available and is a copy of the original part.   The web revealed a number of reports of the rubber pad un-bonding or the whole piston popping out.  I suspect the latter must be due to a stretched chain allowing the piston to come out too far.  Many of the failures of the rubber un-bonding are from racing applications but there are a lot from road cars as well.  One English builder who races MGBs says that all his failures were on race engines and he thinks failures on road cars are very rare, but he is talking of MGBs.   Many reports name the manufacturer as ?Rolon?, although there could be more than one source of this base model.  This is the ?base? one that MOSS supplies and you can see ?Rolon? stamped into the casting in their illustration.  It is $13 USD
2.	A French company called Renolds makes an upgraded tensioner that is visually similar to the original but apparently has better pad material  this is the one Mike has illustrated on his post.  I could only find one report of the bonding failing on this tensioner.  Reports vary, but it seems this part is the OEM Jag replacement available from dealers as part # EAC3629.  Some people had reported getting the Rolon part supplied from Jag dealers, and one report said both were available as OEM and ?upgraded? OEM from his Jag dealer.  This is the tensioner sold by MOSS as their ?premium? tensioner.  It appears available from other sources including Jaguar dealerships.  It is $90 USD.
3.	The third one is described as a ?hydraulic? tensioner.  This is  the one sold by DW for 130 GBP.  I think that A-H spares sells the same one for 90 GBP, but the difference may be the VAT.  The one from DW has ?DWR? stamped into it, but they may be adding that themselves.  This has a nylon slipper and it is narrower than the chain, whereas the other two have rubber pads slightly wider than the chain.  I cannot find any reports of this type failing, but I did find a report of it being a poor fit.  Oddly, the chat lines that had extensive discussion ?Rolon? vs ?Renolds?, do not mention this tensioner at all, so no information on reliability, which really means no failures (who takes the front end apart to check the tensioner is OK?).  However, I am sure that relatively speaking, very few of these have been fitted relative to all the Jag rebuilds using the Renolds unit and there are probably 1000s of the Rolon units running in MGBs.

Regarding them all being hydraulic, there is a bit of confusion, but several sources say that the oil feed is just to lubricate the pad and the tension is all provided by the spring.  However the DW one is said to be truly hydraulic.  Whether oil pressures assists with tension on the first two, or dampens the piston movement caused by oscillations of the chain, has been raised as a question, but no definitive answer.

That is the sum total of what I know about timing chain tensioners.  For the record, I opted for Moss' "Premium" tensioner (#2 above).

Cheers, Mirek
'59 BT7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: February 22, 2021 12:22 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners

I can't answer your question definitively, but can say--in hindsight--that I wish I'd installed DWM's upgraded tensioner on my BJ8's last overhaul. Expensive (relatively), sure, but failure of this part would be near-catastrophic, and I've heard anecdotally that aftermarket versions have failed (and I have an inherent distrust of any aftermarket part with rubber). How much is (relative) peace of mind worth?

I installed DWM's flexible oil pump pipe in my BN2 on DWM's 'advice' and I'm glad I did. I know of at least one failure of the original, metal pipe (from someone on this list).


On 2/22/2021 9:10 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of
> 6 cylinder timing chain tensioners.
> As far as I know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the 
> cost of the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market.
> They are apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover 
> package.
> These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a 
> lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any 
> others that I have used.
> In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a 
> problem on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common 
> on higher milage ones.
> My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly 
> better and are they worth the extra cost?
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 22 14:22:21 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 13:22:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
In-Reply-To: <006301d70956$8b2abbb0$a1803310$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>
 <e2ad5474-9c87-0ff7-30cd-3f0041a9a839@comcast.net>
 <006301d70956$8b2abbb0$a1803310$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <194c788e-52e4-cf11-5352-4a00acf2b553@comcast.net>

Thanks for the good info, Mirek.

On the topic of tensioners, my '08 Mustang with 4.6L V8 used plastic 
rail-type tensioners, that were tensioned by oil pressure. Ford calls 
for their 5W-20 semi-syn oil in most (all?) of their big V8s, but some 
owners decided they knew better than the Ford engineers and put 5W-30, 
10W-30 and even thicker oil in their engines (Ford does spec a heavier 
oil for track use, to be added before and drained after track use). As 
it turns out, this caused some chain tensioners to break as the thicker 
oils didn't pressurize the tensioners as quickly on startup, allowing 
the tensioners to vibrate to destruction (an expensive fix, probably not 
covered by warranty).

I can't find a definitive source--forums don't usually count--but I 
think the 5.0L in my current Mustang has an ECU-controlled oil pressure 
relief solenoid. OP in that car pops up to 100PSI on startup--assuming 
the gauge is telling the truth--for a second, then drops to a more 
'reasonable' value (actually pretty low for unstressed cruising). I 
presume this is to assure that the top end, inc. the tensioners, get 
pressurized quickly.

Bob

On 2/22/2021 12:08 PM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote:
> The DW tensioner is significantly different from either of the two  that Michael is referring to, and substantial more expensive than either.  I did some "research" on the web (as a scientist I struggle calling that research) when investigating tensioners for my current rebuild and from what I can figure out there are at least three tensioners on the market that will work.  This same tensioner fits MGBs, Jaguar XK engines and Land Rovers, and the majority of chatter on the web is from Jag and MGB owners.
>
> 1.	This is the ?base? model which is readily available and is a copy of the original part.   The web revealed a number of reports of the rubber pad un-bonding or the whole piston popping out.  I suspect the latter must be due to a stretched chain allowing the piston to come out too far.  Many of the failures of the rubber un-bonding are from racing applications but there are a lot from road cars as well.  One English builder who races MGBs says that all his failures were on race engines and he thinks failures on road cars are very rare, but he is talking of MGBs.   Many reports name the manufacturer as ?Rolon?, although there could be more than one source of this base model.  This is the ?base? one that MOSS supplies and you can see ?Rolon? stamped into the casting in their illustration.  It is $13 USD
> 2.	A French company called Renolds makes an upgraded tensioner that is visually similar to the original but apparently has better pad material  this is the one Mike has illustrated on his post.  I could only find one report of the bonding failing on this tensioner.  Reports vary, but it seems this part is the OEM Jag replacement available from dealers as part # EAC3629.  Some people had reported getting the Rolon part supplied from Jag dealers, and one report said both were available as OEM and ?upgraded? OEM from his Jag dealer.  This is the tensioner sold by MOSS as their ?premium? tensioner.  It appears available from other sources including Jaguar dealerships.  It is $90 USD.
> 3.	The third one is described as a ?hydraulic? tensioner.  This is  the one sold by DW for 130 GBP.  I think that A-H spares sells the same one for 90 GBP, but the difference may be the VAT.  The one from DW has ?DWR? stamped into it, but they may be adding that themselves.  This has a nylon slipper and it is narrower than the chain, whereas the other two have rubber pads slightly wider than the chain.  I cannot find any reports of this type failing, but I did find a report of it being a poor fit.  Oddly, the chat lines that had extensive discussion ?Rolon? vs ?Renolds?, do not mention this tensioner at all, so no information on reliability, which really means no failures (who takes the front end apart to check the tensioner is OK?).  However, I am sure that relatively speaking, very few of these have been fitted relative to all the Jag rebuilds using the Renolds unit and there are probably 1000s of the Rolon units running in MGBs.
>
> Regarding them all being hydraulic, there is a bit of confusion, but several sources say that the oil feed is just to lubricate the pad and the tension is all provided by the spring.  However the DW one is said to be truly hydraulic.  Whether oil pressures assists with tension on the first two, or dampens the piston movement caused by oscillations of the chain, has been raised as a question, but no definitive answer.
>
> That is the sum total of what I know about timing chain tensioners.  For the record, I opted for Moss' "Premium" tensioner (#2 above).
>
> Cheers, Mirek
> '59 BT7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: February 22, 2021 12:22 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
>
> I can't answer your question definitively, but can say--in hindsight--that I wish I'd installed DWM's upgraded tensioner on my BJ8's last overhaul. Expensive (relatively), sure, but failure of this part would be near-catastrophic, and I've heard anecdotally that aftermarket versions have failed (and I have an inherent distrust of any aftermarket part with rubber). How much is (relative) peace of mind worth?
>
> I installed DWM's flexible oil pump pipe in my BN2 on DWM's 'advice' and I'm glad I did. I know of at least one failure of the original, metal pipe (from someone on this list).
>
>
> On 2/22/2021 9:10 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>> I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of
>> 6 cylinder timing chain tensioners.
>> As far as I know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the
>> cost of the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market.
>> They are apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover
>> package.
>> These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a
>> lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any
>> others that I have used.
>> In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a
>> problem on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common
>> on higher milage ones.
>> My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly
>> better and are they worth the extra cost?
>>
>


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Feb 22 14:27:53 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 16:27:53 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
In-Reply-To: <006301d70956$8b2abbb0$a1803310$@sympatico.ca>
References: <CAB3i7LLRcqGgAWTVtnSQCy1EKN9UU0H4-KoBKn-_OhQ1CveV8g@mail.gmail.com>
 <e2ad5474-9c87-0ff7-30cd-3f0041a9a839@comcast.net>
 <006301d70956$8b2abbb0$a1803310$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B56pVYGpf-SUTPmZXEJ2bkkSH5NoLw_ZV-u7EXB2Q2CVg@mail.gmail.com>

When rebuilding the MGA 1622 engine in my former Elva Courier race car I
used an "upgraded" tensioner sourced from Jaguar--apparently same or
similar to the unit of which several folks have spoken.
I did so because it was "cheap insurance" for a part that is difficult to
inspect, the failure of which can have dire results.
I don't know if I made the correct decision because while the new tensioner
worked just fine so too did the "standard" one it replaced.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 3:09 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The DW tensioner is significantly different from either of the two  that
> Michael is referring to, and substantial more expensive than either.  I did
> some "research" on the web (as a scientist I struggle calling that
> research) when investigating tensioners for my current rebuild and from
> what I can figure out there are at least three tensioners on the market
> that will work.  This same tensioner fits MGBs, Jaguar XK engines and Land
> Rovers, and the majority of chatter on the web is from Jag and MGB owners.
>
> 1.      This is the ?base? model which is readily available and is a copy
> of the original part.   The web revealed a number of reports of the rubber
> pad un-bonding or the whole piston popping out.  I suspect the latter must
> be due to a stretched chain allowing the piston to come out too far.  Many
> of the failures of the rubber un-bonding are from racing applications but
> there are a lot from road cars as well.  One English builder who races MGBs
> says that all his failures were on race engines and he thinks failures on
> road cars are very rare, but he is talking of MGBs.   Many reports name the
> manufacturer as ?Rolon?, although there could be more than one source of
> this base model.  This is the ?base? one that MOSS supplies and you can see
> ?Rolon? stamped into the casting in their illustration.  It is $13 USD
> 2.      A French company called Renolds makes an upgraded tensioner that
> is visually similar to the original but apparently has better pad material
> this is the one Mike has illustrated on his post.  I could only find one
> report of the bonding failing on this tensioner.  Reports vary, but it
> seems this part is the OEM Jag replacement available from dealers as part #
> EAC3629.  Some people had reported getting the Rolon part supplied from Jag
> dealers, and one report said both were available as OEM and ?upgraded? OEM
> from his Jag dealer.  This is the tensioner sold by MOSS as their ?premium?
> tensioner.  It appears available from other sources including Jaguar
> dealerships.  It is $90 USD.
> 3.      The third one is described as a ?hydraulic? tensioner.  This is
> the one sold by DW for 130 GBP.  I think that A-H spares sells the same one
> for 90 GBP, but the difference may be the VAT.  The one from DW has ?DWR?
> stamped into it, but they may be adding that themselves.  This has a nylon
> slipper and it is narrower than the chain, whereas the other two have
> rubber pads slightly wider than the chain.  I cannot find any reports of
> this type failing, but I did find a report of it being a poor fit.  Oddly,
> the chat lines that had extensive discussion ?Rolon? vs ?Renolds?, do not
> mention this tensioner at all, so no information on reliability, which
> really means no failures (who takes the front end apart to check the
> tensioner is OK?).  However, I am sure that relatively speaking, very few
> of these have been fitted relative to all the Jag rebuilds using the
> Renolds unit and there are probably 1000s of the Rolon units running in
> MGBs.
>
> Regarding them all being hydraulic, there is a bit of confusion, but
> several sources say that the oil feed is just to lubricate the pad and the
> tension is all provided by the spring.  However the DW one is said to be
> truly hydraulic.  Whether oil pressures assists with tension on the first
> two, or dampens the piston movement caused by oscillations of the chain,
> has been raised as a question, but no definitive answer.
>
> That is the sum total of what I know about timing chain tensioners.  For
> the record, I opted for Moss' "Premium" tensioner (#2 above).
>
> Cheers, Mirek
> '59 BT7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: February 22, 2021 12:22 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing Chain Tensioners
>
> I can't answer your question definitively, but can say--in hindsight--that
> I wish I'd installed DWM's upgraded tensioner on my BJ8's last overhaul.
> Expensive (relatively), sure, but failure of this part would be
> near-catastrophic, and I've heard anecdotally that aftermarket versions
> have failed (and I have an inherent distrust of any aftermarket part with
> rubber). How much is (relative) peace of mind worth?
>
> I installed DWM's flexible oil pump pipe in my BN2 on DWM's 'advice' and
> I'm glad I did. I know of at least one failure of the original, metal pipe
> (from someone on this list).
>
>
> On 2/22/2021 9:10 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> > I note that the usual suspects all now seem to be selling 2 grades of
> > 6 cylinder timing chain tensioners.
> > As far as I know the more expensive variety, which are 5 times the
> > cost of the less expensive type, are relatively new on the market.
> > They are apparently made in France and come in a Jaguar/ Land Rover
> > package.
> > These are slightly different from the originals in that there is a
> > lubrication hole in the rubber pad that I don't recall seeing on any
> > others that I have used.
> > In my experience until very recently the rubber slippers were not a
> > problem on these tensioners but wear of the piston was pretty common
> > on higher milage ones.
> > My question is are these "Premium " grade tensioners significantly
> > better and are they worth the extra cost?
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Mon Feb 22 14:46:05 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 16:46:05 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] mystery bracket
In-Reply-To: <9bb4498b-204b-5fb2-e089-acba61d3712a@comcast.net>
References: <20210220214937.3D672A0BDA@autox.team.net>
 <72975cb8-1044-2113-765e-5dae6bc8aacf@earthlink.net>
 <CAB3i7LKckjhCUwK0XaFkFvGxiwjKMHC4aXbC0CHhfX7t4dgrvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <9bb4498b-204b-5fb2-e089-acba61d3712a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.33.1614030379.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

Ah, the joys of trying to re-assemble a car that was taken apart by someone else?.  Many thanks to all who replied to my question.  My late partner ran a restoration shop and did most of my BN1?s major disassembly.  Unlike me, he didn?t label anything, and when I collected what I hoped were all the bits after he died (and there are still some things missing) we grabbed every box that looked as though it might have Healey stuff in it.  As there hasn?t been a dismembered MG in the shop for decades, who knows where the brackets came from!

Again thanks,
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Feb 22 15:50:18 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 22:50:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <d4cc4af7-c368-4788-5aac-ef518a95bbc6@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
 <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <d4cc4af7-c368-4788-5aac-ef518a95bbc6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1376028339.1342890.1614034218747@mail.yahoo.com>

 I use Kopr-Shield when assembling Lucas bullet connectors.? Did this 21 years ago with my Bugeye and not one problem with connections corroding yet.? Never hardens and does not allow corrosion in electrical joints while while aiding conductivity.? It is also used as an anti-sieze compound.


THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound

| 
| 
|  | 
THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...

THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound
 |

 |

 |

Mike MacLean

    On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
  That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to mind).
 
 I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).
 
 So, Alan, what did you decide?
 
 
 On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
  
 
 Bob wrote:? "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber." -------------------------------------------- 50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.?? Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils? 
  Best--Michael Oritt  
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
  
  re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching."
 
 I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.
 
 Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
 
 
 On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
  
  Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching. 
  M
   
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
  In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:? "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine." 
  About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.? This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.? After thinking?about it further I decided that it could only have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent?and the chain pretty loose.? I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a chattering sound that had been?appearing at certain rpm's?disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain. 
  Best--Michael Oritt  
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
  
Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one 
 piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the 
 tailpipe.
 
 By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
 
 Bob
 
 
 On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
 > All -
 >
 > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came 
 > off the upper part of the valve guide.
 >
 > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one 
 > sells.? I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, 
 > correct?? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried 
 > but would prefer to not? put it back on and have old rubber parts 
 > getting into the oil.
 >
 > Am I correct to?not put it back on?? No one seems to sell these.
 >
 > Best,
 >
 > Alan
 >
 >
 
  
  
  
  
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Feb 16 07:03:47 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2021 14:03:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
 <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>
 <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>

Steve,It is good to hear from you again. Your project is looking & sounding great. You are very ambitious & your workmanship is flawless. Are those aluminum front fenders on the body??Thanks for the description & photos.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 7:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gentlemen,My friend Lin Rose just gave me a heads-up that my old EFI system was being discussed.
That car, 1963 AH Works Rally Tribute, ran great and is now living in Australia.? The new owner has had it on 3 continents and roughly 14 countries... still running well last I heard.? And, yes, on that build I did as much as I could to hide all the EFI stuff.
I'm working on a "new" restoration now... another 1963 BJ7.? This one will also be EFI.? But, and some may have issue with this, I've decided to take the EFI to the next level.? To do that I needed to accept that it would look higher tech than the last one.? So, this will definitely look like a EFI car.? I'm hoping to maximize the overall EFI aspect of this engine... meaning improved efficiency and power.? I'll enclose a few images.? I started with Weber aluminum castings, which were heavily massaged with 6 injector bungs, fuel rail mountings, custom mounting brackets for plenum, port matched to the heads and a custom ("bespoke" in English terms) plenum with a single throttle body... to hit the high points.? The overall engine is more aggressive than the last one with the head extensively worked over by a AH head Rockstar, Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, hotter cam custom cut for the engine by Dema Elgin, headers and a bunch of other details.? As I said, this may not be for everyone, but I'm excited about the project.? The engine is together and running with the 3rd, and final, iteration of the manifold.? It is patiently waiting on a stand in my shop for the receiving car to be ready..? Unfortunately, the car that it will go in is quite a ways from done.? I had hoped to have it on the road this summer, but that's looking like a stretch.
Oh and this will look more like the Sebring Healey's (yes, Gary, more like yours) than a rally car.??
That's for the codos Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations this time around!
Feel free to ask questions.?
Steve    On Monday, February 15, 2021, 04:53:17 PM MST, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv2638828780 -- filtered {}#yiv2638828780 filtered {}#yiv2638828780 p.yiv2638828780MsoNormal, #yiv2638828780 li.yiv2638828780MsoNormal, #yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2638828780 a:link, #yiv2638828780 span.yiv2638828780MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2638828780 a:visited, #yiv2638828780 span.yiv2638828780MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2638828780 p.yiv2638828780msonormal, #yiv2638828780 li.yiv2638828780msonormal, #yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2638828780 p.yiv2638828780msochpdefault, #yiv2638828780 li.yiv2638828780msochpdefault, #yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2638828780 span.yiv2638828780emailstyle17 {}#yiv2638828780 p.yiv2638828780msonormal1, #yiv2638828780 li.yiv2638828780msonormal1, #yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv2638828780 span.yiv2638828780emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv2638828780 p.yiv2638828780msochpdefault1, #yiv2638828780 li.yiv2638828780msochpdefault1, #yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv2638828780 span.yiv2638828780EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv2638828780 .yiv2638828780MsoChpDefault {}#yiv2638828780 filtered {}#yiv2638828780 div.yiv2638828780WordSection1 {}#yiv2638828780 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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From scthomton at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 17 09:03:09 2021
From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 16:03:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
 <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>
 <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
 <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <629467096.2539193.1613577789581@mail.yahoo.com>

 Gary,The front fenders are still steel.? I took a rubbing from Pat Moss's car when I was in England many years ago... that's that pattern I gave Brad to duplicate... it's the same one I used for my Works Rally Tribute car. The carb. access panel is a shameless duplicate of Lin Rose's panel.? It is similar to the Works carb. access panels, but executed a bit more elegantly than Works panel.??
Steve    On Tuesday, February 16, 2021, 07:03:51 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Steve,It is good to hear from you again. Your project is looking & sounding great. You are very ambitious & your workmanship is flawless. Are those aluminum front fenders on the body??Thanks for the description & photos.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 7:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gentlemen,My friend Lin Rose just gave me a heads-up that my old EFI system was being discussed.
That car, 1963 AH Works Rally Tribute, ran great and is now living in Australia.? The new owner has had it on 3 continents and roughly 14 countries... still running well last I heard.? And, yes, on that build I did as much as I could to hide all the EFI stuff.
I'm working on a "new" restoration now... another 1963 BJ7.? This one will also be EFI.? But, and some may have issue with this, I've decided to take the EFI to the next level.? To do that I needed to accept that it would look higher tech than the last one.? So, this will definitely look like a EFI car.? I'm hoping to maximize the overall EFI aspect of this engine... meaning improved efficiency and power.? I'll enclose a few images.? I started with Weber aluminum castings, which were heavily massaged with 6 injector bungs, fuel rail mountings, custom mounting brackets for plenum, port matched to the heads and a custom ("bespoke" in English terms) plenum with a single throttle body... to hit the high points.? The overall engine is more aggressive than the last one with the head extensively worked over by a AH head Rockstar, Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, hotter cam custom cut for the engine by Dema Elgin, headers and a bunch of other details.? As I said, this may not be for everyone, but I'm excited about the project.? The engine is together and running with the 3rd, and final, iteration of the manifold.? It is patiently waiting on a stand in my shop for the receiving car to be ready..? Unfortunately, the car that it will go in is quite a ways from done.? I had hoped to have it on the road this summer, but that's looking like a stretch.
Oh and this will look more like the Sebring Healey's (yes, Gary, more like yours) than a rally car.??
That's for the codos Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations this time around!
Feel free to ask questions.?
Steve    On Monday, February 15, 2021, 04:53:17 PM MST, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv2553752747 -- filtered {}#yiv2553752747 filtered {}#yiv2553752747 p.yiv2553752747MsoNormal, #yiv2553752747 li.yiv2553752747MsoNormal, #yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2553752747 a:link, #yiv2553752747 span.yiv2553752747MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2553752747 a:visited, #yiv2553752747 span.yiv2553752747MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2553752747 p.yiv2553752747msonormal, #yiv2553752747 li.yiv2553752747msonormal, #yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2553752747 p.yiv2553752747msochpdefault, #yiv2553752747 li.yiv2553752747msochpdefault, #yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2553752747 span.yiv2553752747emailstyle17 {}#yiv2553752747 p.yiv2553752747msonormal1, #yiv2553752747 li.yiv2553752747msonormal1, #yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv2553752747 span.yiv2553752747emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv2553752747 p.yiv2553752747msochpdefault1, #yiv2553752747 li.yiv2553752747msochpdefault1, #yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv2553752747 span.yiv2553752747EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv2553752747 .yiv2553752747MsoChpDefault {}#yiv2553752747 filtered {}#yiv2553752747 div.yiv2553752747WordSection1 {}#yiv2553752747 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Feb 17 09:13:44 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 16:13:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <629467096.2539193.1613577789581@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
 <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>
 <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
 <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>
 <629467096.2539193.1613577789581@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <424971895.2148314.1613578424590@mail.yahoo.com>

Steve,I am so glad I installed the carb access panel on my car. It is incredibly practical. I also installed one on the 100 I am currently working on.?Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; linwoodrose at mac.com <linwoodrose at mac.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gary,The front fenders are still steel.? I took a rubbing from Pat Moss's car when I was in England many years ago... that's that pattern I gave Brad to duplicate... it's the same one I used for my Works Rally Tribute car. The carb. access panel is a shameless duplicate of Lin Rose's panel.? It is similar to the Works carb. access panels, but executed a bit more elegantly than Works panel.??
Steve    On Tuesday, February 16, 2021, 07:03:51 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Steve,It is good to hear from you again. Your project is looking & sounding great. You are very ambitious & your workmanship is flawless. Are those aluminum front fenders on the body??Thanks for the description & photos.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 7:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gentlemen,My friend Lin Rose just gave me a heads-up that my old EFI system was being discussed.
That car, 1963 AH Works Rally Tribute, ran great and is now living in Australia.? The new owner has had it on 3 continents and roughly 14 countries... still running well last I heard.? And, yes, on that build I did as much as I could to hide all the EFI stuff.
I'm working on a "new" restoration now... another 1963 BJ7.? This one will also be EFI.? But, and some may have issue with this, I've decided to take the EFI to the next level.? To do that I needed to accept that it would look higher tech than the last one.? So, this will definitely look like a EFI car.? I'm hoping to maximize the overall EFI aspect of this engine... meaning improved efficiency and power.? I'll enclose a few images.? I started with Weber aluminum castings, which were heavily massaged with 6 injector bungs, fuel rail mountings, custom mounting brackets for plenum, port matched to the heads and a custom ("bespoke" in English terms) plenum with a single throttle body... to hit the high points.? The overall engine is more aggressive than the last one with the head extensively worked over by a AH head Rockstar, Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, hotter cam custom cut for the engine by Dema Elgin, headers and a bunch of other details.? As I said, this may not be for everyone, but I'm excited about the project.? The engine is together and running with the 3rd, and final, iteration of the manifold.? It is patiently waiting on a stand in my shop for the receiving car to be ready..? Unfortunately, the car that it will go in is quite a ways from done.? I had hoped to have it on the road this summer, but that's looking like a stretch.
Oh and this will look more like the Sebring Healey's (yes, Gary, more like yours) than a rally car.??
That's for the codos Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations this time around!
Feel free to ask questions.?
Steve    On Monday, February 15, 2021, 04:53:17 PM MST, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv3942346681 -- filtered {}#yiv3942346681 filtered {}#yiv3942346681 p.yiv3942346681MsoNormal, #yiv3942346681 li.yiv3942346681MsoNormal, #yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv3942346681 a:link, #yiv3942346681 span.yiv3942346681MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3942346681 a:visited, #yiv3942346681 span.yiv3942346681MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3942346681 p.yiv3942346681msonormal, #yiv3942346681 li.yiv3942346681msonormal, #yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv3942346681 p.yiv3942346681msochpdefault, #yiv3942346681 li.yiv3942346681msochpdefault, #yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv3942346681 span.yiv3942346681emailstyle17 {}#yiv3942346681 p.yiv3942346681msonormal1, #yiv3942346681 li.yiv3942346681msonormal1, #yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv3942346681 span.yiv3942346681emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv3942346681 p.yiv3942346681msochpdefault1, #yiv3942346681 li.yiv3942346681msochpdefault1, #yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv3942346681 span.yiv3942346681EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv3942346681 .yiv3942346681MsoChpDefault {}#yiv3942346681 filtered {}#yiv3942346681 div.yiv3942346681WordSection1 {}#yiv3942346681 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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From scthomton at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 17 09:32:04 2021
From: scthomton at yahoo.com (Steve Thomton)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2021 16:32:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <424971895.2148314.1613578424590@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
 <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>
 <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
 <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>
 <629467096.2539193.1613577789581@mail.yahoo.com>
 <424971895.2148314.1613578424590@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <592121332.2562459.1613579524324@mail.yahoo.com>

 Gary,Yes, I think the carb access panel is one of the most practical modifications you can make on a Healey.? It just makes all that stuff on the driver's side so much more accessible!.. it is a night and day difference!??Steve?
    On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 09:13:53 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Steve,I am so glad I installed the carb access panel on my car. It is incredibly practical. I also installed one on the 100 I am currently working on.?Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; linwoodrose at mac.com <linwoodrose at mac.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gary,The front fenders are still steel.? I took a rubbing from Pat Moss's car when I was in England many years ago... that's that pattern I gave Brad to duplicate... it's the same one I used for my Works Rally Tribute car. The carb. access panel is a shameless duplicate of Lin Rose's panel.? It is similar to the Works carb. access panels, but executed a bit more elegantly than Works panel.??
Steve    On Tuesday, February 16, 2021, 07:03:51 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:  
 
 Steve,It is good to hear from you again. Your project is looking & sounding great. You are very ambitious & your workmanship is flawless. Are those aluminum front fenders on the body??Thanks for the description & photos.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>; Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 7:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

 Gentlemen,My friend Lin Rose just gave me a heads-up that my old EFI system was being discussed.
That car, 1963 AH Works Rally Tribute, ran great and is now living in Australia.? The new owner has had it on 3 continents and roughly 14 countries... still running well last I heard.? And, yes, on that build I did as much as I could to hide all the EFI stuff.
I'm working on a "new" restoration now... another 1963 BJ7.? This one will also be EFI.? But, and some may have issue with this, I've decided to take the EFI to the next level.? To do that I needed to accept that it would look higher tech than the last one.? So, this will definitely look like a EFI car.? I'm hoping to maximize the overall EFI aspect of this engine... meaning improved efficiency and power.? I'll enclose a few images.? I started with Weber aluminum castings, which were heavily massaged with 6 injector bungs, fuel rail mountings, custom mounting brackets for plenum, port matched to the heads and a custom ("bespoke" in English terms) plenum with a single throttle body... to hit the high points.? The overall engine is more aggressive than the last one with the head extensively worked over by a AH head Rockstar, Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, hotter cam custom cut for the engine by Dema Elgin, headers and a bunch of other details.? As I said, this may not be for everyone, but I'm excited about the project.? The engine is together and running with the 3rd, and final, iteration of the manifold.? It is patiently waiting on a stand in my shop for the receiving car to be ready..? Unfortunately, the car that it will go in is quite a ways from done.? I had hoped to have it on the road this summer, but that's looking like a stretch.
Oh and this will look more like the Sebring Healey's (yes, Gary, more like yours) than a rally car.??
That's for the codos Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations this time around!
Feel free to ask questions.?
Steve    On Monday, February 15, 2021, 04:53:17 PM MST, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several YouTube videos showing his system.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection

#yiv5552778218 -- filtered {}#yiv5552778218 filtered {}#yiv5552778218 p.yiv5552778218MsoNormal, #yiv5552778218 li.yiv5552778218MsoNormal, #yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv5552778218 a:link, #yiv5552778218 span.yiv5552778218MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5552778218 a:visited, #yiv5552778218 span.yiv5552778218MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5552778218 p.yiv5552778218msonormal, #yiv5552778218 li.yiv5552778218msonormal, #yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv5552778218 p.yiv5552778218msochpdefault, #yiv5552778218 li.yiv5552778218msochpdefault, #yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv5552778218 span.yiv5552778218emailstyle17 {}#yiv5552778218 p.yiv5552778218msonormal1, #yiv5552778218 li.yiv5552778218msonormal1, #yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv5552778218 span.yiv5552778218emailstyle171 {color:windowtext;}#yiv5552778218 p.yiv5552778218msochpdefault1, #yiv5552778218 li.yiv5552778218msochpdefault1, #yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5552778218 span.yiv5552778218EmailStyle23 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv5552778218 .yiv5552778218MsoChpDefault {}#yiv5552778218 filtered {}#yiv5552778218 div.yiv5552778218WordSection1 {}#yiv5552778218 Hi Perry, ?A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back, looked pretty decent.? I have attached the document he created that explains the setup.I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.? As I recall it used GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to confirm.?  ?Gil61 BT7 ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection ?More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have lost the contact info but it was slick.? The injectors and plumbing were mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed nicely. Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work??Perry




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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Feb 22 18:32:52 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 09:32:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals
In-Reply-To: <d4cc4af7-c368-4788-5aac-ef518a95bbc6@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJnQ57c6nPRTac7MBijhAv8LTAGwAqt4ecmW9yCOWZ1OQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <f410ede1-656e-9225-1cd1-43708d0ec909@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5YLVXBihe9h4Gs8v6w1Lw8WU6JzpLe2jj-n24gus+eaA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+nyc+e3J0YCoC14oGtFExRzpmdurZFP6WmZsUkiX+vkw@mail.gmail.com>
 <b76da3a3-a590-d8e4-0df1-5d01831539b5@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <d4cc4af7-c368-4788-5aac-ef518a95bbc6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+_nsetdA-HRiQwpQP6SoKETqWN91fDX=hBPf39BtNQJg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob -

I learned a little something this time, what was on there was a ford style
valve seal (see https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9725).   I was
confused because the parts book shows something called a "valve shroud"
(item 49 here
https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/engine-performance/cylinder-head/cylinder-head-100-4)
but I now understand this is something completely different than what I
took off my car.  This original "shroud" is NLA.

Ultimately the A90 is low compression/low power/single valve spring so I'm
not really too concerned to get it all perfectly set up.  I just replaced
the little o ring seal and put the valve back together - good enough for
government work - I don't mind a little blue smoke when I start it... makes
me feel like I'm firing up the wright cyclone as I'm heading out in my SBD
looking for the Akagi.

The main thing is the valve has been lapped and seated properly.  Head is
easy enough to pull so if I have to do it again, it's not a big deal.  If
I'm motivated I might put the ford type seals on the car... meh?

Best,

Alan

On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 12:09 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter
> gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical
> connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent
> some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication
> is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on
> starters come to mind).
>
> I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride;
> cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years
> before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is
> going strong (but shows her age).
>
> So, Alan, what did you decide?
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Feb 23 03:02:34 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 23:02:34 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] 100 side cover setscrew washers
Message-ID: <000201d709cb$035a7570$0a0f6050$@xtra.co.nz>

 

Listers,

 

Under the 15 setscrews that hold the side cover in place the Parts Manual
lists fibre washers.  2K 4974

How effective are these over a long period of time?

The old orange ones on my 1956 BN2 are not in good shape.

I was wondering if it might not be better, and more leak-proof, to use
annealed copper washers. 

 

What is the experience and wisdom of the list?

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Feb 23 07:32:54 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 14:32:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 side cover setscrew washers
In-Reply-To: <000201d709cb$035a7570$0a0f6050$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000201d709cb$035a7570$0a0f6050$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <445982995.1215709.1614090774883@mail.yahoo.com>

Mark,Here is another option to consider (stat-o-seals):https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3245&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=3245&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoIrJyJuA7wIVScDICh2mzAiUEAQYAiABEgIeSPD_BwE
They are aluminum crush washers with rubber inner o-ring seal (Buna-N rubber is resistant to water, oil, and petroleum fuels).Gary?
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Donaldson via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2021 4:02 am
Subject: [Healeys] 100 side cover setscrew washers

<!--#yiv0259699127 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0259699127 #yiv0259699127 p.yiv0259699127MsoNormal, #yiv0259699127 li.yiv0259699127MsoNormal, #yiv0259699127 div.yiv0259699127MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv0259699127 span.yiv0259699127EmailStyle19 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv0259699127 .yiv0259699127MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0259699127 div.yiv0259699127WordSection1 {}-->?Listers, ?Under the 15 setscrews that hold the side cover in place the Parts Manual lists fibre washers.? 2K 4974How effective are these over a long period of time?The old orange ones on my 1956 BN2 are not in good shape.I was wondering if it might not be better, and more leak-proof, to use annealed copper washers.  ?What is the experience and wisdom of the list? ?MarkArdmore, NZ
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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Feb 23 09:36:35 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 08:36:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] ATC Blade fuses.
Message-ID: <CALPtYiPfr5g1=OVUcoO-hJcW5TQNT2Vght+tfV+zo4bTDOK3gQ@mail.gmail.com>

A caution for others.
I have added several circuits with in line protection using ATC type colour
coded blade fuses.
Beware of the import, no-name, no specification boxes of lo cost fuses.
I recently had an 'accident" and the fuse did not rupture.
Fortunately I was about to prevent too much smoke.
Further testing revealed that this fuse was defective and the let through
was several multiples above where it should have been.
So no more cheepos for me - but proper Bussman or Littlefuse products.
rg

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb 23 10:54:39 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 17:54:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] ATC Blade fuses.
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiPfr5g1=OVUcoO-hJcW5TQNT2Vght+tfV+zo4bTDOK3gQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiPfr5g1=OVUcoO-hJcW5TQNT2Vght+tfV+zo4bTDOK3gQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <411416717.1678654.1614102879250@mail.yahoo.com>

 Probably a good philosophy with every product we use maintaining our cars.Mike MacLean

    On Tuesday, February 23, 2021, 8:37:10 AM PST, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:  
 
 A caution for others.I have added several circuits with in line protection using ATC type colour coded blade fuses.Beware of the import, no-name, no specification boxes of lo cost fuses.I recently had an 'accident" and the fuse did not rupture.Fortunately I was about to prevent too much smoke.Further testing revealed that this fuse was defective and the let through was several multiples above where it should have been.So no more cheepos for me - but proper Bussman or Littlefuse products.rg


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb 23 18:36:09 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2021 09:36:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] ATC Blade fuses.
In-Reply-To: <411416717.1678654.1614102879250@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CALPtYiPfr5g1=OVUcoO-hJcW5TQNT2Vght+tfV+zo4bTDOK3gQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <411416717.1678654.1614102879250@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKFREZLf8KAvNS+Gdw7vB7kXed=F5ykdyw2ZSiD5Vv+4g@mail.gmail.com>

Not to be confused with Baximan and Litaitanfuse


>
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021, 8:37:10 AM PST, Roger Grace <
> roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>
> A caution for others.
> I have added several circuits with in line protection using ATC type
> colour coded blade fuses.
> Beware of the import, no-name, no specification boxes of lo cost fuses.
> I recently had an 'accident" and the fuse did not rupture.
> Fortunately I was about to prevent too much smoke.
> Further testing revealed that this fuse was defective and the let through
> was several multiples above where it should have been.
> So no more cheepos for me - but proper Bussman or Littlefuse products.
> rg
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb 23 23:33:53 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2021 06:33:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Progress and Other Things
References: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>

Just wanted to let you guys know my amateur attempt at wiring my BN2 is coming along as you can see in the picture of the firewall.? Tonight UPS delivered a nutsert tool I bought online to install 10/32 threaded nutserts.? As you can see in the picture the overdrive relay is now mounted.? Who ever did the body work must have covered the holes to mount the relay and I had no way to know where the original holes were due to the enclosed box section behind it in the passenger compartment.? My only option was to drill a hole and put a 10/32 nutsert in there.? You can see the tool I used in one of the pictures.? It worked great.? I have a feeling this won't be the last time this tool will come in handy.? The deeper I get into this wiring the more I understand and the more I see the smaller harnesses that are missing.? There is a shop that does classic car wiring harnesses locally here.? I know the guy that runs it.? Maybe I can get the right color cloth covered wires from him to make my own harnesses.? The dip switch harness and the wiper motor harness to name a couple.? The wiring harness was a gift from the late Tom Rocke.? Can't complain about a free wiring harness.? Just a very productive night in the garage tonight.? It's fun when things work out, which does not always happen.? The engine and trans will be going in soon.? Don't know how that is going to go.? Not a one man job.
Mike MacLean
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Feb 24 02:50:49 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2021 04:50:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Progress and Other Things
In-Reply-To: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <da28a6af-04b4-2b21-1789-40dd42ab42fc@earthlink.net>

Mike,

I have found British Wiring (http://britishwiring.com) to be a good 
source for wire (and harnesses).

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/24/21 1:33 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote:
> Just wanted to let you guys know my amateur attempt at wiring my BN2 
> is coming along as you can see in the picture of the firewall.? 
> Tonight UPS delivered a nutsert tool I bought online to install 10/32 
> threaded nutserts.? As you can see in the picture the overdrive relay 
> is now mounted.? Who ever did the body work must have covered the 
> holes to mount the relay and I had no way to know where the original 
> holes were due to the enclosed box section behind it in the passenger 
> compartment.? My only option was to drill a hole and put a 10/32 
> nutsert in there. You can see the tool I used in one of the pictures.? 
> It worked great.? I have a feeling this won't be the last time this 
> tool will come in handy.? The deeper I get into this wiring the more I 
> understand and the more I see the smaller harnesses that are missing.? 
> There is a shop that does classic car wiring harnesses locally here.? 
> I know the guy that runs it. Maybe I can get the right color cloth 
> covered wires from him to make my own harnesses.? The dip switch 
> harness and the wiper motor harness to name a couple.? The wiring 
> harness was a gift from the late Tom Rocke.? Can't complain about a 
> free wiring harness.? Just a very productive night in the garage 
> tonight.? It's fun when things work out, which does not always 
> happen.? The engine and trans will be going in soon.? Don't know how 
> that is going to go.? Not a one man job.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 24 03:14:13 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2021 18:14:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Progress and Other Things
In-Reply-To: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ_1JJmuaPd-gvZ2eJfD9y6=H2dRP6J+wdxsTFpcfW2gA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike -

For an amateur your work certainly looks like a pro!  Looks excellent.
Your free harness looks very original.

I think those screws were originally sheet metal screws so probably the
holes were filled over, but putting in machine screws is actually a nice
touch.

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, Feb 24, 2021 at 2:35 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Just wanted to let you guys know my amateur attempt at wiring my BN2 is
> coming along as you can see in the picture of the firewall.  Tonight UPS
> delivered a nutsert tool I bought online to install 10/32 threaded
> nutserts.  As you can see in the picture the overdrive relay is now
> mounted.  Who ever did the body work must have covered the holes to mount
> the relay and I had no way to know where the original holes were due to the
> enclosed box section behind it in the passenger compartment.  My only
> option was to drill a hole and put a 10/32 nutsert in there.  You can see
> the tool I used in one of the pictures.  It worked great.  I have a feeling
> this won't be the last time this tool will come in handy.  The deeper I get
> into this wiring the more I understand and the more I see the smaller
> harnesses that are missing.  There is a shop that does classic car wiring
> harnesses locally here.  I know the guy that runs it.  Maybe I can get the
> right color cloth covered wires from him to make my own harnesses.  The dip
> switch harness and the wiper motor harness to name a couple.  The wiring
> harness was a gift from the late Tom Rocke.  Can't complain about a free
> wiring harness.  Just a very productive night in the garage tonight.  It's
> fun when things work out, which does not always happen.  The engine and
> trans will be going in soon.  Don't know how that is going to go.  Not a
> one man job.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb 24 08:39:16 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2021 07:39:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Progress and Other Things
In-Reply-To: <da28a6af-04b4-2b21-1789-40dd42ab42fc@earthlink.net>
References: <68373541.1934316.1614148433992.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <68373541.1934316.1614148433992@mail.yahoo.com>
 <da28a6af-04b4-2b21-1789-40dd42ab42fc@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0c8701d70ac3$364019b0$a2c04d10$@roadrunner.com>

As have I.  

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2021 1:51 AM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring Progress and Other Things

Mike,

I have found British Wiring (http://britishwiring.com) to be a good source for wire (and harnesses).

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 2/24/21 1:33 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote:
> Just wanted to let you guys know my amateur attempt at wiring my BN2 
> is coming along as you can see in the picture of the firewall.
> Tonight UPS delivered a nutsert tool I bought online to install 10/32 
> threaded nutserts.  As you can see in the picture the overdrive relay 
> is now mounted.  Who ever did the body work must have covered the 
> holes to mount the relay and I had no way to know where the original 
> holes were due to the enclosed box section behind it in the passenger 
> compartment.  My only option was to drill a hole and put a 10/32 
> nutsert in there. You can see the tool I used in one of the pictures.
> It worked great.  I have a feeling this won't be the last time this 
> tool will come in handy.  The deeper I get into this wiring the more I 
> understand and the more I see the smaller harnesses that are missing.
> There is a shop that does classic car wiring harnesses locally here. I 
> know the guy that runs it. Maybe I can get the right color cloth 
> covered wires from him to make my own harnesses.  The dip switch 
> harness and the wiper motor harness to name a couple.  The wiring 
> harness was a gift from the late Tom Rocke.  Can't complain about a 
> free wiring harness.  Just a very productive night in the garage 
> tonight.  It's fun when things work out, which does not always happen.  
> The engine and trans will be going in soon.  Don't know how that is 
> going to go.  Not a one man job.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com



From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 24 19:08:00 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 10:08:00 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Caswell zinc plating kit
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL89vA=qCOcaTA9CYD0gVjuwky4=s26TM75mzc77Nwuew@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone have experience with these?  Are these kits worth it?  Is the
zinc plating decent enough?
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Thu Feb 25 07:50:21 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 09:50:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
Message-ID: <mailman.36.1614264630.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British number plates?  Long ago I bought some which were ready to put on?black background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new after years on the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.  The paint-it-yourself ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.

TIA,
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 08:11:30 2021
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 10:11:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <20210225145137.39A7EA05D2@autox.team.net>
References: <20210225145137.39A7EA05D2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <d847825b-c6f4-fbac-7d6b-96b9842809aa@comcast.net>

Sarah,

I had one made by Triple-C.com when they were located here in York, PA.? 
They have since moved to Arizona, but I believe they are still around.? 
The owner, Philip Cooke, is a Brit expat and understands how the style 
and letters on the plates indicate different things.? His machine is one 
that a vendor in the UK would have to make official ones for UK 
drivers.? The letters and numbers are stamped.

Here is one I had made for an E-type that the original owner picked up 
at the factory in Coventry, so I put the original registration number on it.

On 2/25/2021 9:50 AM, S.Carr via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British 
> number plates?? Long ago I bought some which were ready to put 
> on?black background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new 
> after years on the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.? 
> The paint-it-yourself ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.
>
> TIA,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Thu Feb 25 09:48:08 2021
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 11:48:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Caswell zinc plating kit
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkL89vA=qCOcaTA9CYD0gVjuwky4=s26TM75mzc77Nwuew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkL89vA=qCOcaTA9CYD0gVjuwky4=s26TM75mzc77Nwuew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2509973d-a3d1-e6f3-8164-417a9753ccd1@htcnet.org>

I used Caswell's zinc kit for several years on three projects.? I did 
most of the setup myself, using only the chemicals.? Worked quite well 
for small parts, hardware and things like relay covers. for prolonging 
the look you can use a clear coat over it.? Like most things it has a 
learning curve.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 2/24/2021 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> Has anyone have experience with these?? Are these kits worth it?? Is 
> the zinc plating decent enough?
>
> _______________________________________________
>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Feb 25 11:24:53 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 18:24:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Original Metallic Golden Beige BJ8 for sale
Message-ID: <4933973f37b481816ab4ce7b01ac83f8e5e3df9d@webmail>

Hello, Healeyphiles -
The owner has some health issues and is reluctantly giving up his BJ8.
This is HBJ8L/40947, the 73rd Metallic Golden Beige (by sequence of
chassis number). Photos are attached.Asking price is in the '40s. The
BJ8 Registry has a continuous record of ownership (possibly to the
original owner) in Illinois, Texas, and North Carolina. Interested
parties please contact Don Hinson, dhinson at hinsonelectric.com
Happy Healeying!Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at
LargeHavelock, NC USA
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Feb 25 12:00:10 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 11:00:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Caswell zinc plating kit
In-Reply-To: <2509973d-a3d1-e6f3-8164-417a9753ccd1@htcnet.org>
References: <CAFBXTkL89vA=qCOcaTA9CYD0gVjuwky4=s26TM75mzc77Nwuew@mail.gmail.com>
 <2509973d-a3d1-e6f3-8164-417a9753ccd1@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSr6o0vX4mE5u0REVxbBF3+es8Tq_tJa7MVGGV_gum9Wg@mail.gmail.com>

Alan,

I used Caswell "Copy Cad" for years, and while the results were very good,
it took a learning curve to get there, *and it was very time consuming*.

In the end, I took my large buckets of clean wire brushed fasteners for my
BN1 restoration to Burbank Plating and had them all done in white Cadmium.
White Cad not only gives the same look as Zinc done 60+ years ago, it's
four times more rust resistant.

Now Burbank normally does not do fasteners for car hobbyists as people
still think they can bring in a rusty coffee can full of crappy rusty
fasteners and have them come back looking like new for $20.  Those days are
long gone.  They do mostly contract, new production fasteners.

I brought in a more than 'full" five gallon bucket of fasteners (more like
six plus gallons) that were all derusted, cleaned, inspected (threads and
heads were all good) and wire brushed... They were pristine. The owner said
that he would love to do them for me, *and only because I gave him
fasteners worthy of the time and effort to replate*. They individually
wired ALL of the fasteners down to the smallest ones, and did not lose
one!  They even did my excellent condition, original brake and fuel lines.
At $600 it wasn't cheap, but a deal and worth every dollar spent.

BTW They do ALL of the fastener plating for Jay Leno's cars.  FWIW, the
owner is a 6' 3" blond haired and bearded 30 something gentleman who looks
like a Northwest or Canadian lumberjack.

BTW their shop is immaculate, yes imagine a plating shop that looks that
good, and try as they might, the A$$HOLE EPA inspectors have not been able
to find any violations in their procedures.

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:49 AM John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org> wrote:

> I used Caswell's zinc kit for several years on three projects.  I did most
> of the setup myself, using only the chemicals.  Worked quite well for small
> parts, hardware and things like relay covers.  for prolonging the look you
> can use a clear coat over it.  Like most things it has a learning curve.
>
> John
> 64/66 BJ8s
>
> On 2/24/2021 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>
> Has anyone have experience with these?  Are these kits worth it?  Is the
> zinc plating decent enough?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 25 14:09:08 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 13:09:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Caswell zinc plating kit
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeSr6o0vX4mE5u0REVxbBF3+es8Tq_tJa7MVGGV_gum9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkL89vA=qCOcaTA9CYD0gVjuwky4=s26TM75mzc77Nwuew@mail.gmail.com>
 <2509973d-a3d1-e6f3-8164-417a9753ccd1@htcnet.org>
 <CAJKrNeSr6o0vX4mE5u0REVxbBF3+es8Tq_tJa7MVGGV_gum9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMard-8ADPcTCgoWtchj3W9Ppp9RaYKs+UyhS8n_vr5GQ@mail.gmail.com>

I second the notion of using the white cadmium plating. I did the same
thing here in Portland a few years back with a 5 gallon bucket of
fasteners. There are economies of scale so if you go that route so do as
many fasteners and small brackets as you can at that one time.  I think the
white cad is so much more pleasing to the eye than today's zinc plating.

My pro.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 11:05 AM Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> I used Caswell "Copy Cad" for years, and while the results were very good,
> it took a learning curve to get there, *and it was very time consuming*.
>
> In the end, I took my large buckets of clean wire brushed fasteners for my
> BN1 restoration to Burbank Plating and had them all done in white Cadmium.
> White Cad not only gives the same look as Zinc done 60+ years ago, it's
> four times more rust resistant.
>
> Now Burbank normally does not do fasteners for car hobbyists as people
> still think they can bring in a rusty coffee can full of crappy rusty
> fasteners and have them come back looking like new for $20.  Those days are
> long gone.  They do mostly contract, new production fasteners.
>
> I brought in a more than 'full" five gallon bucket of fasteners (more like
> six plus gallons) that were all derusted, cleaned, inspected (threads and
> heads were all good) and wire brushed... They were pristine. The owner said
> that he would love to do them for me, *and only because I gave him
> fasteners worthy of the time and effort to replate*. They individually
> wired ALL of the fasteners down to the smallest ones, and did not lose
> one!  They even did my excellent condition, original brake and fuel lines.
> At $600 it wasn't cheap, but a deal and worth every dollar spent.
>
> BTW They do ALL of the fastener plating for Jay Leno's cars.  FWIW, the
> owner is a 6' 3" blond haired and bearded 30 something gentleman who looks
> like a Northwest or Canadian lumberjack.
>
> BTW their shop is immaculate, yes imagine a plating shop that looks that
> good, and try as they might, the A$$HOLE EPA inspectors have not been able
> to find any violations in their procedures.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:49 AM John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
> wrote:
>
>> I used Caswell's zinc kit for several years on three projects.  I did
>> most of the setup myself, using only the chemicals.  Worked quite well for
>> small parts, hardware and things like relay covers.  for prolonging the
>> look you can use a clear coat over it.  Like most things it has a learning
>> curve.
>>
>> John
>> 64/66 BJ8s
>>
>> On 2/24/2021 9:08 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone have experience with these?  Are these kits worth it?  Is the
>> zinc plating decent enough?
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Thu Feb 25 15:56:57 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 22:56:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 radiator hoses
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB488183D26AB63FF6DB4837AED49E9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Moss's 100 radiator hose prices just seemed really high to me, so I started looking for an alternative.  Found the Dayco D71178 hose for $11.99 and available at Advance Auto and Autozone. 1.25" ID with the same bend. Just needs cut down a bit. Will fit bottom and top.
Just a FYI. Hope this info is helpful.

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 25 16:11:40 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2021 15:11:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] holder
Message-ID: <4d3d16ca-b5ba-3aeb-7696-c88e373b338d@comcast.net>

The high-beam indicator on my BJ8 is at the bottom of the speedometer 
(probably the same on all Smiths). The plastic bulb holder just plugs 
into the back.? My bulb holder is in sad shape.? Is there any place that 
might have one?

Mike

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Feb 25 23:12:43 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 06:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 2:50 PM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates


Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British number plates?  Long ago I bought some which were ready to put on?black background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new after years on the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.  The paint-it-yourself ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.



TIA,

Sarah Carr

BN1 in PA



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Fri Feb 26 02:39:02 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 09:39:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bill

You might have a problem purchasing a number plate in the UK. You will have
to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in because
thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.

However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble your own but the
government might have already thought of this.

On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of S.Carr via
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 25, 2021 2:50 PM
> *To:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] British number plates
>
>
> Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British
> number plates?  Long ago I bought some which were ready to put on?black
> background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new after years on
> the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.  The paint-it-yourself
> ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Feb 26 02:51:53 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 09:51:53 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I ran into this problem when getting a company, here in UK, to make up plates for a Healey in France. The key was to say that the plates were ?For Exhibition Purposes Only?. Both parties knew that there was no exhibition on the horizon but he was, presumably, able to fill in all the blanks on his form?????

(The French use dots and or dashes between some of the number groups in their plates. The British company could match their script but I had to hand paint the dashes!)

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of john harper via Healeys
Sent: 26 February 2021 09:39
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British number plates

 

Bill

 

You might have a problem purchasing a number plate in the UK. You will have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.

 

However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble your own but the government might have already thought of this.

 

On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 2:50 PM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates 

 

Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British number plates?  Long ago I bought some which were ready to put on?black background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new after years on the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.  The paint-it-yourself ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.

 

TIA,

Sarah Carr

BN1 in PA

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Feb 26 04:00:04 2021
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 22:00:04 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Around the middle of last year I decided that I wanted to use the original UK number plates of the BN3 under the Australian plates.

 

I have only owned the car for 47 years so you can?t hurry these things.

 

The plates were originally made by Ace Number Plates, a company that still exists. So I made enquires and it was going to cost me ?199. I thought that was a bit pricey so decided to spend an inordinate amount of time refurbishing the original plates that are made of cast alloy riveted to an aluminium base.

 

I was pleased with the results.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 26 February 2021 8:52 PM
To: 'john harper'; 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British number plates

 

I ran into this problem when getting a company, here in UK, to make up plates for a Healey in France. The key was to say that the plates were ?For Exhibition Purposes Only?. Both parties knew that there was no exhibition on the horizon but he was, presumably, able to fill in all the blanks on his form?????

(The French use dots and or dashes between some of the number groups in their plates. The British company could match their script but I had to hand paint the dashes!)

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of john harper via Healeys
Sent: 26 February 2021 09:39
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British number plates

 

Bill

 

You might have a problem purchasing a number plate in the UK. You will have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.

 

However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble your own but the government might have already thought of this.

 

On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Feb 26 04:48:29 2021
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 12:48:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <ec025066-63a4-d8a4-c0f5-28b243fa9fac@chello.nl>

Looks far better than new plates ever could. Even on a concourse car: 
they are original!!

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 26-2-2021 om 12:00 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>
> Hello
>
> Around the middle of last year I decided that I wanted to use the 
> original UK number plates of the BN3 under the Australian plates.
>
> I have only owned the car for 47 years so you can?t hurry these things.
>
> The plates were originally made by Ace Number Plates, a company that 
> still exists. So I made enquires and it was going to cost me ?199. I 
> thought that was a bit pricey so decided to spend an inordinate amount 
> of time refurbishing the original plates that are made of cast alloy 
> riveted to an aluminium base.
>
> I was pleased with the results.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Simon Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, 26 February 2021 8:52 PM
> *To:* 'john harper'; 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'
> *Cc:* 'Healeys'
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
>
> I ran into this problem when getting a company, here in UK, to make up 
> plates for a Healey in France. The key was to say that the plates were 
> ?For Exhibition Purposes Only?. Both parties knew that there was no 
> exhibition on the horizon but he was, presumably, able to fill in all 
> the blanks on his form?????
>
> (The French use dots and or dashes between some of the number groups 
> in their plates. The British company could match their script but I 
> had to hand paint the dashes!)
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *john 
> harper via Healeys
> *Sent:* 26 February 2021 09:39
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Cc:* S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
>
> Bill
>
> You might have a problem purchasing?a number plate in the UK. You will 
> have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in 
> because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.
>
> However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble?your own but 
> the government?might have already thought of this.
>
> On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.
>
>     Bill Lawrence
>
>     BN1 #554
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Fri Feb 26 07:07:21 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 14:07:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <11df8f0a-336d-ff8f-a2f8-e8ba6548505a@summaventures.com>

Great Job Patrick,

Peter

On 26/02/2021 11:00, Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys wrote:
> Hello
> 
> ?
> 
> Around the middle of last year I decided that I wanted to use the
> original UK number plates of the BN3 under the Australian plates.
> 
> ?
> 
> I have only owned the car for 47 years so you can?t hurry these things.
> 
> ?
> 
> The plates were originally made by Ace Number Plates, a company that
> still exists. So I made enquires and it was going to cost me ?199. I
> thought that was a bit pricey so decided to spend an inordinate amount
> of time refurbishing the original plates that are made of cast alloy
> riveted to an aluminium base.
> 
> ?
> 
> I was pleased with the results.
> 
> ?
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> ?
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> 
> ?
> 
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Simon Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, 26 February 2021 8:52 PM
> *To:* 'john harper'; 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'
> *Cc:* 'Healeys'
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
> 
> ?
> 
> I ran into this problem when getting a company, here in UK, to make up
> plates for a Healey in France. The key was to say that the plates were
> ?For Exhibition Purposes Only?. Both parties knew that there was no
> exhibition on the horizon but he was, presumably, able to fill in all
> the blanks on his form?????
> 
> (The French use dots and or dashes between some of the number groups in
> their plates. The British company could match their script but I had to
> hand paint the dashes!)
> 
> Simon
> 
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *john
> harper via Healeys
> *Sent:* 26 February 2021 09:39
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Cc:* S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
> 
> ?
> 
> Bill
> 
> ?
> 
> You might have a problem purchasing?a number plate in the UK. You will
> have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in
> because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.
> 
> ?
> 
> However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble?your own but
> the government?might have already thought of this.
> 
> ?
> 
> On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
>     Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.
> 
>     ?
> 
>     Bill Lawrence
> 
>     BN1 #554
> 
> 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> 
> 
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Feb 26 07:21:29 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 14:21:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <463845706.93605.1614349289483@mail.yahoo.com>

Beautiful job of restoration.Gary Hodson


Subject: Re: [Healeys] British number plates

#yiv2891451760 #yiv2891451760 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2891451760 #yiv2891451760 p.yiv2891451760MsoNormal, #yiv2891451760 li.yiv2891451760MsoNormal, #yiv2891451760 div.yiv2891451760MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv2891451760 a:link, #yiv2891451760 span.yiv2891451760MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2891451760 a:visited, #yiv2891451760 span.yiv2891451760MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2891451760 p {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2891451760 span.yiv2891451760EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv2891451760 span.yiv2891451760EmailStyle19 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;}#yiv2891451760 .yiv2891451760MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv2891451760 div.yiv2891451760WordSection1 {}#yiv2891451760 Hello ?Around the middle of last year I decided that I wanted to use the original UK number plates of the BN3 under the Australian plates. ?I have only owned the car for 47 years so you can?t hurry these things. ?The plates were originally made by Ace Number Plates, a company that still exists. So I made enquires and it was going to cost me ?199. I thought that was a bit pricey so decided to spend an inordinate amount of time refurbishing the original plates that are made of cast alloy riveted to an aluminium base. ?I was pleased with the results. ?Hoo Roo ?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Fri Feb 26 07:36:17 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 09:36:17 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <002901d70b87$faaa8a50$efff9ef0$@verizon.net>
References: <20210225145147.12901A05DB@autox.team.net>
 <002901d70b87$faaa8a50$efff9ef0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.37.1614350190.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

Exactly!  And at the equivalent of $28 & shipping.  Moss should be ashamed of offering the paint-it-yourself ones at $90---
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: ahbn6 at verizon.net
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 10:07 AM
To: 'S.Carr'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] British number plates

Is this what you are looking for?
Raised Digit Number Plates For Classic & Vintage Cars - Classic Spares (classic-spares.com)

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of S.Carr via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 9:50 AM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates

Can anyone suggest a source other than Moss for pre-war style British number plates?? Long ago I bought some which were ready to put on?black background (probably baked enamel, as they?re still as-new after years on the front of my MG-TD) with raised aluminum letters.? The paint-it-yourself ones that Moss currently sells are not satisfactory.

TIA,
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


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From britfan1 at epix.net  Fri Feb 26 07:43:03 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 09:43:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.38.1614350594.2736.healeys@autox.team.net>

>From Holden?s website:
Regulations for UK delivery demand that you provide us with copies of your V5C registration document and a utility or Council Tax bill in your name.
So overseas purchasers shouldn?t have a problem.
Sarah
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: john harper
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 4:39 AM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Cc: S.Carr via Healeys; S.Carr
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British number plates

Bill

You might have a problem purchasing?a number plate in the UK. You will have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.

However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble?your own but the government?might have already thought of this.

On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Fri Feb 26 08:59:30 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 07:59:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] British number plates
In-Reply-To: <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
References: <20210225145221.5B6F6A05D2@autox.team.net>
 <CY4PR13MB11431DD4E8252B7A145CF74EA59D9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAL28cLUUjAfSsmp+i9p+9pY4O-bvefm19XcFUrjwUnbbY1hWVQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d70c25$05d92880$118b7980$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <009801d70c2e$89fc4800$9df4d800$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <f1d97cf6-1e64-9a4a-72f9-01376f28554e@comcast.net>

Looks nice.

Mike

On 2/26/2021 3:00 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> Around the middle of last year I decided that I wanted to use the 
> original UK number plates of the BN3 under the Australian plates.
>
> I have only owned the car for 47 years so you can?t hurry these things.
>
> The plates were originally made by Ace Number Plates, a company that 
> still exists. So I made enquires and it was going to cost me ?199. I 
> thought that was a bit pricey so decided to spend an inordinate amount 
> of time refurbishing the original plates that are made of cast alloy 
> riveted to an aluminium base.
>
> I was pleased with the results.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Simon Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, 26 February 2021 8:52 PM
> *To:* 'john harper'; 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'
> *Cc:* 'Healeys'
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
>
> I ran into this problem when getting a company, here in UK, to make up 
> plates for a Healey in France. The key was to say that the plates were 
> ?For Exhibition Purposes Only?. Both parties knew that there was no 
> exhibition on the horizon but he was, presumably, able to fill in all 
> the blanks on his form?????
>
> (The French use dots and or dashes between some of the number groups 
> in their plates. The British company could match their script but I 
> had to hand paint the dashes!)
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *john 
> harper via Healeys
> *Sent:* 26 February 2021 09:39
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Cc:* S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] British number plates
>
> Bill
>
> You might have a problem purchasing?a number plate in the UK. You will 
> have to have proof of ownership to get one. This law was bought in 
> because thieves were changing plates on stolen cars.
>
> However, you might be able to purchase a kit to assemble?your own but 
> the government?might have already thought of this.
>
> On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 at 06:14, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Holden Vintage & Classics. In the UK.
>
>     Bill Lawrence
>
>     BN1 #554
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>
>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Feb 26 11:10:28 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 18:10:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question
References: <446607737.748478.1614363028761.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <446607737.748478.1614363028761@mail.yahoo.com>

In the middle of my BN2 re-wire and I have come across a bit of a kink.? If you check the Moss catalog they list an overdrive harness for the BN1 and the BN4 through BJ8.? No listing for the BN2.? The wiring harness I am installing is a Moss cloth/PVC harness.? There connection I am concerned about today is the connection from the overdrive relay connection C2 to the transmission switch.? The original wiring diagram for the BN2 in the service manual shows a single white wire with green stripe from C2 on the relay to the transmission switch.? The harness I have has the connection from C2 to the throttle switch (same color wire) within the main harness.? Really this connection is only inches apart, but there is no white wire with a green stripe other than that coming out of the harness at this point.? This leads me to believe this is just a single wire that runs from the overdrive relay to the transmission switch.? Has anyone that has wired a BN2 run into this?? I would like to know what gauge wire to use? because I do not know the amperage this wire has to carry.? How long of a wire would this be approximately?? I would like to order it from British Wiring with a woven sheath (black with white dots) to make it look somewhat period.? No having the transmission installed yet makes figuring the length a little difficult. I'd rather be too long with this wire than the alternative.Mike MacLean
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Feb 26 19:07:34 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2021 02:07:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <446607737.748478.1614363028761@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <446607737.748478.1614363028761.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <446607737.748478.1614363028761@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2059362003.917372.1614391654092@mail.yahoo.com>

 No one knows the answer to my question I guess, but that's OK.? I called Rhode Island Wiring today and talked to a 41 year employee that only works 3 days a week now at 70 years old.? He looked it up for me and said even their expensive BN2 main harness did not include a connection from the overdrive relay to the transmission switch.? According to his records of past original wiring harnesses from BN2 cars they use as example, it is a single braided wire with a woven covering of white with purple tracers encased in a vinyl sheath.? On one end is a forked terminal to connect to the relay.? I was told this wire is 48 inches long.? Then a length of brown with purple wire is between the switch and the solenoid with a sleeve connector in the middle.? Supposedly to service the solenoid.? So, problem solved.? Just have to order the wire and components now.Mike MacLean? 

    On Friday, February 26, 2021, 10:18:56 AM PST, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 In the middle of my BN2 re-wire and I have come across a bit of a kink.? If you check the Moss catalog they list an overdrive harness for the BN1 and the BN4 through BJ8.? No listing for the BN2.? The wiring harness I am installing is a Moss cloth/PVC harness.? There connection I am concerned about today is the connection from the overdrive relay connection C2 to the transmission switch.? The original wiring diagram for the BN2 in the service manual shows a single white wire with green stripe from C2 on the relay to the transmission switch.? The harness I have has the connection from C2 to the throttle switch (same color wire) within the main harness.? Really this connection is only inches apart, but there is no white wire with a green stripe other than that coming out of the harness at this point.? This leads me to believe this is just a single wire that runs from the overdrive relay to the transmission switch.? Has anyone that has wired a BN2 run into this?? I would like to know what gauge wire to use? because I do not know the amperage this wire has to carry.? How long of a wire would this be approximately?? I would like to order it from British Wiring with a woven sheath (black with white dots) to make it look somewhat period.? No having the transmission installed yet makes figuring the length a little difficult. I'd rather be too long with this wire than the alternative.Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Feb 26 19:39:35 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2021 02:39:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question
Message-ID: <b35db1b8e436beaacd25818f4bafe0cb0f0fafde@webmail>

Michael-you talked to the right person, Mark Hoover. He is very
knowledgeable and exacting. His description of the wire you needed is
right on. He has created a huge file of correct harness information
for every Healey and many other cars as well.
Even though RI Wiring is a bit pricy for these items..."you get what
you pay for". Also the saying-"you can't buy that kind of information"
does not apply with RIW...I found them to be the best and when Mark
retires, he will leave a legacy of good data, that hopefully someone
else in the firm will pick up, and run with the ball. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Friday February 26 2021 6:09:40PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question

  No one knows the answer to my question I guess, but that's OK. I
called Rhode Island Wiring today and talked to a 41 year employee that
only works 3 days a week now at 70 years old. He looked it up for me
and said even their expensive BN2 main harness did not include a
connection from the overdrive relay to the transmission switch.
According to his records of past original wiring harnesses from BN2
cars they use as example, it is a single braided wire with a woven
covering of white with purple tracers encased in a vinyl sheath. On
one end is a forked terminal to connect to the relay. I was told this
wire is 48 inches long. Then a length of brown with purple wire is
between the switch and the solenoid with a sleeve connector in the
middle. Supposedly to service the solenoid. So, problem solved. Just
have to order the wire and components now. Mike MacLean 

    On Friday, February 26, 2021, 10:18:56 AM PST, Michael MacLean via
Healeys  wrote: 

     In the middle of my BN2 re-wire and I have come across a bit of a
kink. If you check the Moss catalog they list an overdrive harness for
the BN1 and the BN4 through BJ8. No listing for the BN2. The wiring
harness I am installing is a Moss cloth/PVC harness. There connection
I am concerned about today is the connection from the overdrive relay
connection C2 to the transmission switch. The original wiring diagram
for the BN2 in the service manual shows a single white wire with green
stripe from C2 on the relay to the transmission switch. The harness I
have has the connection from C2 to the throttle switch (same color
wire) within the main harness. Really this connection is only inches
apart, but there is no white wire with a green stripe other than that
coming out of the harness at this point. This leads me to believe this
is just a single wire that runs from the overdrive relay to the
transmission switch. Has anyone that has wired a BN2 run into this? I
would like to know what gauge wire to use because I do not know the
amperage this wire has to carry. How long of a wire would this be
approximately? I would like to order it from British Wiring with a
woven sheath (black with white dots) to make it look somewhat period.
No having the transmission installed yet makes figuring the length a
little difficult. I'd rather be too long with this wire than the
alternative. Mike MacLean
    _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
[5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6]

Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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[4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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[7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Feb 26 19:48:58 2021
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2021 02:48:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question
In-Reply-To: <b35db1b8e436beaacd25818f4bafe0cb0f0fafde@webmail>
References: <b35db1b8e436beaacd25818f4bafe0cb0f0fafde@webmail>
Message-ID: <540256518.924280.1614394139002@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yes, it was Mark I talked to.? He is very knowledgeable.? I will be calling again Monday to order the wires and connector.? Mark said to tell Michael I talked to him as Michael is his up and coming protege.? I have an order coming from them already for some other sub harnesses like the one for the wiper motor.? Good to know we have not lost all our experienced knowledge about these cars yet.Mike MacLean

    On Friday, February 26, 2021, 6:39:37 PM PST, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 Michael-you talked to the right person, Mark Hoover.? He is very knowledgeable and exacting.? His description of the wire you needed is right on. He has created a huge file of correct harness information for every Healey and many other cars as well.
Even though RI Wiring is a bit pricy for these items..."you get what you pay for". Also the saying-"you can't buy that kind of information" does not apply with RIW...I found them to be the best and when Mark retires, he will leave a legacy of good data, that hopefully someone else in the firm will pick up, and run with the ball. Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Michael MacLean via Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Friday February 26 2021 6:09:40PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Yet Another Wiring Question

No one knows the answer to myquestion I guess, but that's OK.? I called Rhode Island Wiringtoday and talked to a 41 year employee that only works 3 days aweek now at 70 years old.? He looked it up for me and saideven their expensive BN2 main harness did not include a connectionfrom the overdrive relay to the transmission switch.?According to his records of past original wiring harnesses from BN2cars they use as example, it is a single braided wire with a wovencovering of white with purple tracers encased in a vinylsheath.? On one end is a forked terminal to connect to therelay.? I was told this wire is 48 inches long.? Then alength of brown with purple wire is between the switch and thesolenoid with a sleeve connector in the middle.? Supposedly toservice the solenoid.? So, problem solved.? Just have toorder the wire and components now.Mike MacLean?

On Friday, February 26, 2021, 10:18:56 AM PST, Michael MacLeanvia Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

In the middle of my BN2 re-wire and I have comeacross a bit of a kink.? If you check the Moss catalog theylist an overdrive harness for the BN1 and the BN4 throughBJ8.? No listing for the BN2.? The wiring harness I aminstalling is a Moss cloth/PVC harness.? There connection I amconcerned about today is the connection from the overdrive relayconnection C2 to the transmission switch.? The original wiringdiagram for the BN2 in the service manual shows a single white wirewith green stripe from C2 on the relay to the transmissionswitch.? The harness I have has the connection from C2 to thethrottle switch (same color wire) within the main harness.?Really this connection is only inches apart, but there is no whitewire with a green stripe other than that coming out of the harnessat this point.? This leads me to believe this is just a singlewire that runs from the overdrive relay to the transmissionswitch.? Has anyone that has wired a BN2 run into this??I would like to know what gauge wire to use? because I do notknow the amperage this wire has to carry.? How long of a wirewould this be approximately?? I would like to order it fromBritish Wiring with a woven sheath (black with white dots) to makeit look somewhat period.? No having the transmission installedyet makes figuring the length a little difficult. I'd rather be toolong with this wire than the alternative.Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 27 17:04:55 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 08:04:55 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>

All -

either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my rocker
shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.

Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I can
replace the broken one?

Best,

Alan
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 27 17:18:11 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 08:18:11 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>

Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer them
on when hot?


On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> All -
>
> either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my
> rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.
>
> Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I
> can replace the broken one?
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Feb 27 19:43:42 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 02:43:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143B9AA88C8AC8796C2D1C4A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Yeah, I?ve never had times with these, but it looks like they are an interference fit. Probably heat them with a propane torch to loosen them and drive the shaft out with a soft hammer.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 12:18 AM
To: Healey list <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question

Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer them on when hot?


On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
All -

either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.

Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I can replace the broken one?

Best,

Alan
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Feb 27 19:45:17 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 02:45:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB1143B9AA88C8AC8796C2D1C4A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CY4PR13MB1143B9AA88C8AC8796C2D1C4A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB114300EF48DC975F07A8AA94A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

 Times=to mess... Autocorrect is driving me mananas...
________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 2:43 AM
To: Alan Seigrist via Healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>; Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question

Yeah, I?ve never had times with these, but it looks like they are an interference fit. Probably heat them with a propane torch to loosen them and drive the shaft out with a soft hammer.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 12:18 AM
To: Healey list <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question

Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer them on when hot?


On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
All -

either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.

Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I can replace the broken one?

Best,

Alan
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 27 20:44:27 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 11:44:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>

All -

Okay I got alot of great feedback, thank you.  Took the rocker off and the
pedestals slide around.   Was a bit confused at first because this is for
my A90, and I have a spare a90 rocker from 1949 which is different, and on
that one the rocker pedestals are an interference fit (the rocker arms and
pushrods on an early A90 are really cool, but complicated... they eliminate
tappet noise but are too fiddly and complicated).

But my A90 actually has a later motor which is the same as a 100, and I
have a rebuilt rocker on it from rockerarms.com.

It seems the two inner pedestals are free floating, and the two outer
pedestals have a slight interference - I think the interference fit is to
hold the shaft in placeso that the banjo bolt will go in the hole on the
shaft.  I can remove the outer pedestals off with a slight tapping with a
rubber mallot.

Anyway, hope that helps.

Cheers,

Alan

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:18 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer
> them on when hot?
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> All -
>>
>> either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my
>> rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.
>>
>> Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I
>> can replace the broken one?
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Feb 27 20:51:27 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2021 19:51:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9309edb9-6bea-a015-80b9-cdda24953012@comcast.net>

Hah. I was going to suggest you send it to rockerarms.com, but figured 
shipping would be prohibitive.

BTW, when did rockerarms rebuild your shaft? There's been at least one 
change of ownership and a name change, I think, and responses have been 
spotty. They did my BJ8's shaft many years ago, and it's held up well.

Bob

On 2/27/2021 7:44 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> Okay I got alot?of great feedback, thank?you.? Took the rocker off and 
> the pedestals slide around.? ?Was a bit confused at first because this 
> is for my A90, and I have a spare a90 rocker from 1949 which is 
> different, and on that one the rocker pedestals are an interference 
> fit (the rocker arms and pushrods on an early A90 are really cool, but 
> complicated... they eliminate tappet noise but are too fiddly and 
> complicated).
>
> But my A90 actually has a later motor which is the same as a 100, and 
> I have a rebuilt rocker on it from rockerarms.com 
> <http://rockerarms.com>.
>
> It seems the two inner pedestals are free floating, and the two outer 
> pedestals have a slight interference - I think the interference fit is 
> to hold the shaft in placeso that the banjo bolt will go in the hole 
> on the shaft.? I can remove the outer pedestals off with a slight 
> tapping with a rubber mallot.
>
> Anyway, hope?that helps.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:18 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I
>     hammer them on when hot?
>
>
>     On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist
>     <healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>         All -
>
>         either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole
>         on my rocker shaft.? either way I have to replace the pedestal.
>
>         Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker
>         shaft so?I can replace?the broken one?
>
>         Best,
>
>         Alan
>
>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 27 20:56:46 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 11:56:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rocker shaft question
In-Reply-To: <9309edb9-6bea-a015-80b9-cdda24953012@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <9309edb9-6bea-a015-80b9-cdda24953012@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJCuynQ_5v6UpUPG77c4nNHV=zaYDexGvJYO8=DVA8U+w@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob -

I had them do it maybe about 12 years ago, but for various reasons I
haven't put much miles on the car since then.  Getting it back together so
I can enjoy it now.

I think the easy thing to do is just order a pedestal from the usual and
replace it myself.

Cheers,

Alan

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:52 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hah. I was going to suggest you send it to rockerarms.com, but figured
> shipping would be prohibitive.
>
> BTW, when did rockerarms rebuild your shaft? There's been at least one
> change of ownership and a name change, I think, and responses have been
> spotty. They did my BJ8's shaft many years ago, and it's held up well.
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/27/2021 7:44 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>
> All -
>
> Okay I got alot of great feedback, thank you.  Took the rocker off and the
> pedestals slide around.   Was a bit confused at first because this is for
> my A90, and I have a spare a90 rocker from 1949 which is different, and on
> that one the rocker pedestals are an interference fit (the rocker arms and
> pushrods on an early A90 are really cool, but complicated... they eliminate
> tappet noise but are too fiddly and complicated).
>
> But my A90 actually has a later motor which is the same as a 100, and I
> have a rebuilt rocker on it from rockerarms.com.
>
> It seems the two inner pedestals are free floating, and the two outer
> pedestals have a slight interference - I think the interference fit is to
> hold the shaft in placeso that the banjo bolt will go in the hole on the
> shaft.  I can remove the outer pedestals off with a slight tapping with a
> rubber mallot.
>
> Anyway, hope that helps.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:18 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Looks to me I have to heat them up - will they slide on or do I hammer
>> them on when hot?
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 8:04 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> All -
>>>
>>> either me or a previous mechanic bunged up the banjo bolt hole on my
>>> rocker shaft.  either way I have to replace the pedestal.
>>>
>>> Is there an easy way to remove the pedestals from the rocker shaft so I
>>> can replace the broken one?
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sat Feb 27 21:25:07 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 12:25:07 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>

All -

One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and the
stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).

I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in there
then tapping it out.

The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten it
up.

Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?

Alan
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Feb 27 22:06:45 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2021 21:06:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>

I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave 
cylinder mount:

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291

It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts 
in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy, 
like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release 
agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure, 
but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.

Bob

On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust?header is loose and 
> the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
>
> I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in 
> there then tapping it out.
>
> The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten 
> it up.
>
> Has anyone ever done a similar repair?? Will it last?
>
> Alan
>


From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Feb 27 22:20:48 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 05:20:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>
References: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the heat that close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a helicoil.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?

I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave
cylinder mount:

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291

It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts
in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy,
like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release
agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure,
but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.

Bob

On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and
> the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
>
> I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in
> there then tapping it out.
>
> The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten
> it up.
>
> Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?
>
> Alan
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Feb 28 03:37:59 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 18:37:59 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKmtCpYMcfzT7kmwx84wORYzdWwsPFk1nXHDBsLnW4i-g@mail.gmail.com>

ordered!

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 1:21 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the heat that
> close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a helicoil.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
>
> I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave
> cylinder mount:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291
>
> It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts
> in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy,
> like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release
> agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure,
> but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and
> > the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
> >
> > I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in
> > there then tapping it out.
> >
> > The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten
> > it up.
> >
> > Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Feb 28 03:44:19 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 18:44:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK=GM-HdBs6Z4zURA8TJ8L0VeSHbxg7ja6gKNr2cB+ViA@mail.gmail.com>

Bill -

One question - the hole goes from one end to the other on the flange of the
exhaust manifold, so do I set the coil with some high strength threadlocker?

Best,

Alan

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 1:21 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the heat that
> close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a helicoil.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
>
> I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave
> cylinder mount:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291
>
> It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts
> in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy,
> like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release
> agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure,
> but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and
> > the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
> >
> > I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in
> > there then tapping it out.
> >
> > The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten
> > it up.
> >
> > Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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>
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From schottc at knology.net  Sun Feb 28 08:22:12 2021
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 10:22:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Fuel Tank
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJCuynQ_5v6UpUPG77c4nNHV=zaYDexGvJYO8=DVA8U+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkJgEhx35TPS3Y4tD_=1LKP0mSdxpoPo2tun9ApeEB_Gug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+2450Td_q_NcyqENy-en6yBCnieLc7U11C3dQAcsRahg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTk+oaFyR=op1jGgZ=XSgr3=M5ovZ4U6KORO6=GMU9qjoSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <9309edb9-6bea-a015-80b9-cdda24953012@comcast.net>
 <CAFBXTkJCuynQ_5v6UpUPG77c4nNHV=zaYDexGvJYO8=DVA8U+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <270073360.10371882.1614525732162.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I have a brand new aluminum fuel tank for a BN1 & 2 for $550 plus shipping from northwest Florida. Pictures upon request. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----







<blockquote>


<blockquote>






<blockquote>





</blockquote>



</blockquote>

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 28 08:36:40 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 07:36:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK=GM-HdBs6Z4zURA8TJ8L0VeSHbxg7ja6gKNr2cB+ViA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTkLZAu9ccCdg0ut3_8t-DJWYSOWWCs7hLzx_33-UH4WJvw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4809464b-ef50-7c4f-dbb6-97f689a68e67@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GM-HdBs6Z4zURA8TJ8L0VeSHbxg7ja6gKNr2cB+ViA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <de5f2986-97a4-b436-8732-a34c60d10604@comcast.net>

I always use it on thread inserts, but heat is the one thing that 
releases it. Like Bill said, it's pretty hot there, but I see no harm on 
giving it a go.

On 2/28/2021 2:44 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Bill -
>
> One question - the hole goes from one end to the other on the flange 
> of the exhaust manifold, so do I set the coil with some high strength 
> threadlocker?
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 1:21 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the
>     heat that close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a
>     helicoil.
>
>     Bill Lawrence
>     BN1 #554
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell
>     via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Sent:* Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
>     I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave
>     cylinder mount:
>
>     https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291
>
>     It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts
>     in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an
>     epoxy,
>     like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release
>     agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for
>     sure,
>     but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>     > All -
>     >
>     > One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust?header is
>     loose and
>     > the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
>     >
>     > I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme
>     heat" in
>     > there then tapping it out.
>     >
>     > The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to
>     tighten
>     > it up.
>     >
>     > Has anyone ever done a similar repair?? Will it last?
>     >
>     > Alan
>     >
>

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 28 08:52:14 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 07:52:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BBB0E7C7-EC99-44FC-83C7-5EC0B61CD116@sbcglobal.net>

Drill out and install a Helicoil   We do it all the time. 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 27, 2021, at 9:21 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the heat that close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a helicoil.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
>  
> I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave 
> cylinder mount:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291
> 
> It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts 
> in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy, 
> like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release 
> agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure, 
> but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.
> 
> Bob
> 
> On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and 
> > the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
> >
> > I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in 
> > there then tapping it out.
> >
> > The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten 
> > it up.
> >
> > Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?
> >
> > Alan
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> 
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From sneddon at xsmail.com  Sun Feb 28 09:16:35 2021
From: sneddon at xsmail.com (Andy Sneddon)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 16:16:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Side window door socket
Message-ID: <FCDDE1F3-36C3-4C3F-B9BB-D1850B93CAF3@xsmail.com>

Folks,

 

 As part of my restoration (BT7) I had new door skins fitted.? Unfortunately I don?t have the hole in the front top for the sidescreen leg to fit through.? I still have the cut-out on the inner frame below, but I am hoping to drill once!

 

Re the diagram below, would any-one have the sizes for dimensions A and B so hopefully I can position accurately.

 

Many thanks

 

Andy

 


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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 28 09:51:00 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 16:51:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreens  -
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507827880C511F3C5724BC7D19B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

List,
I am looking for a fourteen base with the small machined screw as well as the small brass nut that goes with it for the second style of sidescreens fitted to the BN1 from Chassis Body #1100 to Body #7200. You need 34 of these for the two sidescreens but I only have twenty good ones at the moment. Here is a photo of what they lok like.
Jean
[cid:image003.jpg at 01D70DBF.9F225160]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Feb 28 11:03:17 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 10:03:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Side window door socket
In-Reply-To: <FCDDE1F3-36C3-4C3F-B9BB-D1850B93CAF3@xsmail.com>
References: <FCDDE1F3-36C3-4C3F-B9BB-D1850B93CAF3@xsmail.com>
Message-ID: <E70F8F646EAE4500A4138BD3649D35C0@AllInOne>

Andy,
 
I have a pair of doors from a BT7 that was manufactured in late 1960 I am in
process of refinishing. If you want to accurately duplicate the original the
holes should be in slightly different places, though I am quite sure this
was not what Donald Healey or Gerry Coker planned. These are the
measurements from my two doors.
 
LH Side - hole on the inside is well centred in stamping
 
A = 2 5/8"    B = 4 3/8"
 
RH Side - hole on the inside is not well centred in the stamping
 
A = 2 7/8"    B = 4 3/32"
 
I would suggest it is also important to line up the inside and outside holes
so the threaded inserts for the side screen sit flush. Perhaps a combination
of the measurements for the LH door above and projecting where the centre of
the inside hole would be on the outer skin is the way to go. These
measurements were in a straight line and didn't follow the contour of the
door.
 
Good luck.... Harold
 
 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy
Sneddon
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 8:17 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Side window door socket



Folks,

 

As part of my restoration (BT7) I had new door skins fitted.  Unfortunately
I don't have the hole in the front top for the sidescreen leg to fit
through.  I still have the cut-out on the inner frame below, but I am hoping
to drill once!

 

Re the diagram below, would any-one have the sizes for dimensions A and B so
hopefully I can position accurately.

 

Many thanks

 

Andy

 

A picture containing indoor

Description automatically generated

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 28 11:03:57 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 18:03:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Sidescreens  -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507827880C511F3C5724BC7D19B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507827880C511F3C5724BC7D19B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507F7C554E7ABC8F608064FD19B9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

OK, let me try this again without spelling errors etc.
What I am looking for are 14 base pieces that hold a small machined screw, along with the small brass nut that screw onto it. These pieces hold the chromed strips onto the frames of the second type of sidescreens used on the BN1 from Body # 1100 to Body #7200.
34 of these are needed for both sidescreens and I currently only have 20 of them.
Here is a photo of what these look like.

Jean
[cid:image004.jpg at 01D70DC9.D0E2A1A0]


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Jean Caron<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: February 28, 2021 10:51 AM
To: AH Mail List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Sidescreens -

List,
I am looking for a fourteen base with the small machined screw as well as the small brass nut that goes with it for the second style of sidescreens fitted to the BN1 from Chassis Body #1100 to Body #7200. You need 34 of these for the two sidescreens but I only have twenty good ones at the moment. Here is a photo of what they lok like.
Jean
[cid:image003.jpg at 01D70DBF.9F225160]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Feb 28 18:38:17 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 09:38:17 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
In-Reply-To: <BBB0E7C7-EC99-44FC-83C7-5EC0B61CD116@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CY4PR13MB1143ADCBD6E2FEA303BF3583A59B9@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <BBB0E7C7-EC99-44FC-83C7-5EC0B61CD116@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJkivSBUDcHQW4yfiEJGFtGdYS6k9uE2cO7aPwEXZ75qg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi David -

Thanks for the feedback.  Hope you are all doing well in the Central Valley
- being in Hong Kong I don't see you guys anymore.

Cheers,

Alan

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 11:53 PM David Nock via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Drill out and install a Helicoil   We do it all the time.
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 27, 2021, at 9:21 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand up to the heat that
> close to the exhaust valves. Sounds like a job for a helicoil.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?
>
> I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in a bellhousing slave
> cylinder mount:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291
>
> It held up for quite a few years, until I got a chance to put inserts
> in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust proximity. It's an epoxy,
> like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form threads, and a 'release
> agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I can't say for sure,
> but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> > All -
> >
> > One of the three holes at the bottom of my exhaust header is loose and
> > the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does screw in).
> >
> > I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or JB "extreme heat" in
> > there then tapping it out.
> >
> > The threads are still there and it just needs a bit of fill to tighten
> > it up.
> >
> > Has anyone ever done a similar repair?  Will it last?
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 28 20:26:19 2021
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2021 03:26:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission
References: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322@mail.yahoo.com>

Looking for recommendations for a trans rebuild in the Southern California area. I have a BN-2 four speed that needs a really good rebuild. Would ship or travel for best result. Lets hear your thoughts guys.?ThanksRay
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Feb 28 21:42:38 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2021 20:42:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission
In-Reply-To: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <274803719.1437059.1614569179322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <274803719.1437059.1614569179322@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-JHo03AYL8vd9WFHtvB2Q8+AcX4iXt-nLhNssMq_CU6w@mail.gmail.com>

Thompson British Car818 256 0693
NORTHRIDGE, CA.
Worked for Russ when I was in college.
I got over 40 years on mine, after he helped me rebuild it. Imagine how
good he is without my help:)
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Sun, Feb 28, 2021, 7:27 PM Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Looking for recommendations for a trans rebuild in the Southern California
> area. I have a BN-2 four speed that needs a really good rebuild. Would ship
> or travel for best result. Lets hear your thoughts guys.
> Thanks
> Ray
> _______________________________________________
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Feb 22 18:12:26 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 20:12:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <592121332.2562459.1613579524324@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000701d703e4$f8fbd740$eaf385c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <2022117628.2083983.1613432097100@mail.yahoo.com>
 <014d01d703f4$78764780$6962d680$@gmail.com>
 <1488344763.1624631.1613433090278@mail.yahoo.com>
 <347064410.2112437.1613437589193@mail.yahoo.com>
 <282171095.1777671.1613484227655@mail.yahoo.com>
 <629467096.2539193.1613577789581@mail.yahoo.com>
 <424971895.2148314.1613578424590@mail.yahoo.com>
 <592121332.2562459.1613579524324@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4NHNvVqer59QU7GbA_Vxq8WkkP_J0_sDE4eDieTNXNZw@mail.gmail.com>

Gary--

Can you post either a [picture or drawing of the access panel you are using
on the 100?

Thanks--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 8:06 PM Steve Thomton via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gary,
> Yes, I think the carb access panel is one of the most practical
> modifications you can make on a Healey.  It just makes all that stuff on
> the driver's side so much more accessible!.. it is a night and day
> difference!
> Steve
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2021, 09:13:53 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Steve,
> I am so glad I installed the carb access panel on my car. It is incredibly
> practical. I also installed one on the 100 I am currently working on.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <
> healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; linwoodrose at mac.com <
> linwoodrose at mac.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
> Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2021 10:03 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
>
> Gary,
> The front fenders are still steel.  I took a rubbing from Pat Moss's car
> when I was in England many years ago... that's that pattern I gave Brad to
> duplicate... it's the same one I used for my Works Rally Tribute car. The
> carb. access panel is a shameless duplicate of Lin Rose's panel.  It is
> similar to the Works carb. access panels, but executed a bit more elegantly
> than Works panel.
>
> Steve
> On Tuesday, February 16, 2021, 07:03:51 AM MST, <warthodson at aol.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Steve,
> It is good to hear from you again. Your project is looking & sounding
> great. You are very ambitious & your workmanship is flawless. Are those
> aluminum front fenders on the body?
> Thanks for the description & photos.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Thomton <scthomton at yahoo.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; healeyguy at aol.com <
> healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>;
> Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
> Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 7:06 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
>
> Gentlemen,
> My friend Lin Rose just gave me a heads-up that my old EFI system was
> being discussed.
>
> That car, 1963 AH Works Rally Tribute, ran great and is now living in
> Australia.  The new owner has had it on 3 continents and roughly 14
> countries... still running well last I heard.  And, yes, on that build I
> did as much as I could to hide all the EFI stuff.
>
> I'm working on a "new" restoration now... another 1963 BJ7.  This one will
> also be EFI.  But, and some may have issue with this, I've decided to take
> the EFI to the next level.  To do that I needed to accept that it would
> look higher tech than the last one.  So, this will definitely look like a
> EFI car.  I'm hoping to maximize the overall EFI aspect of this engine...
> meaning improved efficiency and power.  I'll enclose a few images.  I
> started with Weber aluminum castings, which were heavily massaged with 6
> injector bungs, fuel rail mountings, custom mounting brackets for plenum,
> port matched to the heads and a custom ("bespoke" in English terms) plenum
> with a single throttle body... to hit the high points.  The overall engine
> is more aggressive than the last one with the head extensively worked over
> by a AH head Rockstar, Hap Waldrop in South Carolina, hotter cam custom cut
> for the engine by Dema Elgin, headers and a bunch of other details.  As I
> said, this may not be for everyone, but I'm excited about the project.  The
> engine is together and running with the 3rd, and final, iteration of the
> manifold.  It is patiently waiting on a stand in my shop for the receiving
> car to be ready..  Unfortunately, the car that it will go in is quite a
> ways from done.  I had hoped to have it on the road this summer, but that's
> looking like a stretch.
>
> Oh and this will look more like the Sebring Healey's (yes, Gary, more like
> yours) than a rally car.
>
> That's for the codos Gary, I hope I can live up to your expectations this
> time around!
>
> Feel free to ask questions.
>
> Steve
> On Monday, February 15, 2021, 04:53:17 PM MST, warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, Steve's FI system & his workmanship is outstanding. He has several
> YouTube videos showing his system.
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gil Rockwell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: healeyguy at aol.com; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 5:44 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
>
> Hi Perry,
>
> A fellow by the name of Steve Thomton did this a few or more years back,
> looked pretty decent.  I have attached the document he created that
> explains the setup.
> I haven?t heard anything from him in quite a while.  As I recall it used
> GM injectors and the ECU from GM, but I haven?t re-read the doc to
> confirm.
>
> Gil
> 61 BT7
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *healeyguy---
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, February 15, 2021 6:35 PM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel Injection
>
> More than a decade ago, during several of the USA West Coast meets that we
> attended, there was a fellow that had developed a fuel injection system
> that basically looked like a stock SU carb setup. Over the years I have
> lost the contact info but it was slick.  The injectors and plumbing were
> mounted out of sight, unless you happened to be under the car and performed
> nicely.
> Any one have any more info on this fellow or his work?
> Perry
>
>
>
>
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