[Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem

[Bob Spidell]

The wheel cylinders didn't have 'County' embossed (I always check for 
that). I found new fittings from a 'classic car' supplier; as used in 
our Healeys they're not common now (ours have an un-threaded part aout 
1/8" at the end). They screwed in easily.

On 4/25/2021 10:46 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF 
> thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in 
> fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with 
> brake fluid.  Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some 
> from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only 
> assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully 
> applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines.
>
> You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to 
> see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There 
> must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest.
> Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS 
> Girling if you can find any. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: gradea1 at charter.net
> Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"
> Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
>
> Hank,
>
> Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely 
> disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are 
> 'no-name' so possibly County,  and the one front cyl I put in is Moss 
> 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the 
> box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes, 
> probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration, 
> and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a 
> front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other 
> solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 
> 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that 
> I know of).
>
> *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the 
> fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful 
> not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I 
> ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that 
> when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but 
> likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available, 
> but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were 
> rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw 
> in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents 
> high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin 
> application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear 
> the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;).  I use less 
> than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing 
> surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is 
> unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see 
> that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent 
> rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much 
> easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due 
> to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass 
> fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the 
> subject (examples):
>
> https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ 
> <https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/>
>
> https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ 
> <https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/>
>
> Bob
>
> On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
>
>     Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel
>     cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled
>     China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what
>     about the other three for the front?  Rebuilt with Moss kits? I
>     have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore.
>     For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the
>     seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function.
>     Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like
>     you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank
>

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