From ah100tech at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 03:52:09 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 10:52:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan I believe that it is a lead impregnated string or cord formed up into a ring with champers on both outer edges. I believe that this form of sealing was used in general plumbing work until lead was seen as dangerous. On Thu, 1 Apr 2021 at 03:04, Alan Seigrist via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal? This is on the > balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine. > > I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike > substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled. The o-rings > they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute. > > Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 05:36:25 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 07:36:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm quite sure that would be fine. The area doesn't get that hot, probably not as hot as boiling water and the seal is unlikely to get very much exposure to raw fuel. M On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:44 p.m. Alan Seigrist, wrote: > Michael - > > So the gland packing can handle the heat and fuel? I see that they now > sell gland packing with PTFE, so that's probably the stuff to get. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:03 AM Michael Salter > wrote: > >> The original material seems to be tap gland packing string. I've >> successfully used that which is available at plumbing supply stores. >> >> M >> >> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 10:03 p.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal? This is on the >>> balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine. >>> >>> I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike >>> substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled. The o-rings >>> they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute. >>> >>> Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 1 06:08:56 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 08:08:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00463F02-0EB8-46BF-B090-2436F1F9439F@aol.com> I have used neoprene O rings on this location for more than 50 years. Way back then they were probably rubber. P Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 31, 2021, at 11:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote: > > ? > Michael - > > So the gland packing can handle the heat and fuel? I see that they now sell gland packing with PTFE, so that's probably the stuff to get. > > Best, > > Alan > >> On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:03 AM Michael Salter wrote: >> The original material seems to be tap gland packing string. I've successfully used that which is available at plumbing supply stores. >> >> M >> >>> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 10:03 p.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, wrote: >>> Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal? This is on the balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine. >>> >>> I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled. The o-rings they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute. >>> >>> Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 06:32:06 2021 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 12:32:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh Message-ID: To give a some background on my project. I'm working on a 56' standard 100 BN2. 90k mile car stored indoors for over 40 years. Some areas of the car are amazingly original/ clean/ untouched. But of course it has its demons as well. So I'm doing a lot of "preservation" where possible, and restoration where needed. Anyway, in reading the concours standards it sounds like the standard 100 intake manifold and exhaust manifold are painted engine color? I have traces of engine color on the balance pipe, but absolutely nothing on the intakes. I was thinking of painting the air cleaners with hammortone silver/aluminum paint and overpainting with a light coat of engine color, but was interested in what others have done to achieve the correct look? Thanks all, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 06:44:41 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 08:44:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a theory that the paint they used just didn't stick to aluminium. Could be wrong but sure would help explain the unpainted starter end and the intake manifolds. The oil filter adaptor does however tend to belay my theory. M On Thu., Apr. 1, 2021, 8:32 a.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > To give a some background on my project. I'm working on a 56' standard 100 > BN2. 90k mile car stored indoors for over 40 years. Some areas of the car > are amazingly original/ clean/ untouched. But of course it has its demons > as well. So I'm doing a lot of "preservation" where possible, and > restoration where needed. > > Anyway, in reading the concours standards it sounds like the standard 100 > intake manifold and exhaust manifold are painted engine color? I have > traces of engine color on the balance pipe, but absolutely nothing on the > intakes. > > I was thinking of painting the air cleaners with hammortone > silver/aluminum paint and overpainting with a light coat of engine color, > but was interested in what others have done to achieve the correct look? > > Thanks all, Shawn > > The Millers > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 07:33:46 2021 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 13:33:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I used RTF silicone in balance pipe end on my BN1 and after five years it seems to be fine. Laurie Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Alan Seigrist via Healeys Date: 2021-03-31 10:05 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To: Healey list Subject: [Healeys] 100 balance pipe gland seal ideas Is there any conventional wisdom for making this seal? This is on the balance pipe between the carbs on the 100 engine. I think originally it was some mixture of fibre/cloth and a tarlike substance wound in a circle and compressed when assembled. The o-rings they provide in head gasket kits are a laughable substitute. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Cheers, Alan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 17:32:38 2021 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 23:32:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thank you for your insight. I always look forward to you sharing the extensive knowledge you provide to the list and FB groups. The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________________________________ From: Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 8:44 AM To: S and T Miller Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh I have a theory that the paint they used just didn't stick to aluminium. Could be wrong but sure would help explain the unpainted starter end and the intake manifolds. The oil filter adaptor does however tend to belay my theory. M On Thu., Apr. 1, 2021, 8:32 a.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, > wrote: To give a some background on my project. I'm working on a 56' standard 100 BN2. 90k mile car stored indoors for over 40 years. Some areas of the car are amazingly original/ clean/ untouched. But of course it has its demons as well. So I'm doing a lot of "preservation" where possible, and restoration where needed. Anyway, in reading the concours standards it sounds like the standard 100 intake manifold and exhaust manifold are painted engine color? I have traces of engine color on the balance pipe, but absolutely nothing on the intakes. I was thinking of painting the air cleaners with hammortone silver/aluminum paint and overpainting with a light coat of engine color, but was interested in what others have done to achieve the correct look? Thanks all, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 17:33:49 2021 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 23:33:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thank you Roland. That is very helpful. The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________________________________ From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 6:54 PM To: S and T Miller Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh Here's what the Concours Guide of 2018 says: Air cleaners were painted black in 1953 and 1954. The original air cleaners on BN1L142618 (built 25-Aug.-53) had a black wrinkle/crackle finish. By Jan 1955 they were painted hammertone green (see Photo ? Figure II-3). Hammertone green was similar to engine green thru BN2?s. Hammertone blue air cleaners have been noted on some early BN1s. Hammertone green can be mixed using Hammerite quart (bulk, not spray) cans of hammertone green and silver along with some oil base pigment from yellow and black tubes. (Glad my 1953 used wrinkle finish black). Have fun, -Roland On Thu, 1 Apr 2021 12:32:06 +0000, you wrote: >To give a some background on my project. I'm working on a 56' standard 100 BN2. 90k mile car stored indoors for over 40 years. Some areas of the car are amazingly original/ clean/ untouched. But of course it has its demons as well. So I'm doing a lot of "preservation" where possible, and restoration where needed. > >Anyway, in reading the concours standards it sounds like the standard 100 intake manifold and exhaust manifold are painted engine color? I have traces of engine color on the balance pipe, but absolutely nothing on the intakes. > >I was thinking of painting the air cleaners with hammortone silver/aluminum paint and overpainting with a light coat of engine color, but was interested in what others have done to achieve the correct look? > >Thanks all, Shawn > >The Millers > >"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Apr 1 19:16:31 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 18:16:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit Message-ID: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8).? Was running great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit.? Tach went to zero instantly.? Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter fluid.? Not a whimper. So far I have: Checked for spark at a plug.? OK, but may not be under load. Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v. Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked for spark on opening points.? I get a good 3/16" spark. Checked point gap.? 0.015".? Points look new. Replaced condenser.? I've heard they are not always ok.? No change. The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points.? Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. Puff test on carbs.? OK. Any ideas?? Coil? Thanks, Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From haywoodone at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 19:48:34 2021 From: haywoodone at hotmail.com (George Haywood) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 01:48:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> References: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> Message-ID: Mike, Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the boot. This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the switch not allowing the engine to fire. It turns over as if all is well, just won't start. Take care, George Haywood '65 bj8 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Mike Sinclair via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] It just quit I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. Tach went to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter fluid. Not a whimper. So far I have: Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but may not be under load. Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v. Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked for spark on opening points. I get a good 3/16" spark. Checked point gap. 0.015". Points look new. Replaced condenser. I've heard they are not always ok. No change. The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points. Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. Puff test on carbs. OK. Any ideas? Coil? Thanks, Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 1 20:02:05 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 19:02:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: References: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <628e6286-3c97-a6f7-3f1e-3a65a28dc1de@comcast.net> Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is stock. Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white with black tracer. Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not, it's probably a bad rotor (new or not). bs On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via Healeys wrote: > Mike, > Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the boot.? > This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the switch not > allowing the engine to fire.? It turns over as if all is well, just > won't start. > > Take care, > > George Haywood > '65 bj8 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Mike > Sinclair via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM > *To:* AH Mail List > *Subject:* [Healeys] It just quit > > I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running > great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit.? > Tach went to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for > awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with > starter fluid.? Not a whimper. > > So far I have: > > Checked for spark at a plug.? OK, but may not be under load. > > Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. > > Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage > at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, > all 12v. > > Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked > for spark on opening points.? I get a good 3/16" spark. > > Checked point gap.? 0.015".? Points look new. > > Replaced condenser.? I've heard they are not always ok.? No change. > > The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points.? > Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. > > Puff test on carbs.? OK. > > Any ideas?? Coil? > > Thanks, Mike > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 20:40:16 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 22:40:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> References: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> Message-ID: I had a coil that caused very similar symptoms but it came back when everything cooled down. However what you describe certain sounds like sparks and the rotor is a very likely suspect. M On Thu., Apr. 1, 2021, 9:18 p.m. Mike Sinclair via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running > great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. Tach > went to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, > engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter fluid. > Not a whimper. > > So far I have: > > Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but may not be under load. > > Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. > > Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage at > coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v. > > Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked for > spark on opening points. I get a good 3/16" spark. > > Checked point gap. 0.015". Points look new. > > Replaced condenser. I've heard they are not always ok. No change. > > The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points. Look > clean, no carbon tracks, etc. > > Puff test on carbs. OK. > > Any ideas? Coil? > > Thanks, Mike > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Apr 1 22:15:29 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2021 21:15:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shawn, The excerpt from the Guidelines was the process Roger Moment developed and he and I used on my Jan. '55 BN1 air cleaners. If done correctly, the results are near perfect, but judge for yourself from the attached photos. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA *'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)* *From:* sentenac.rw at gmail.com > *Sent:* Thursday, April 1, 2021 6:54 PM > *To:* S and T Miller > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh > > Here's what the Concours Guide of 2018 says: > Air cleaners were painted black in 1953 and 1954. The original air > cleaners on BN1L142618 (built 25-Aug.-53) had a black wrinkle/crackle > finish. By Jan 1955 they were painted hammertone green (see Photo ? > Figure II-3). Hammertone green was similar to engine green thru > BN2?s. Hammertone blue air cleaners have been noted on some early > BN1s. Hammertone green can be mixed using Hammerite quart (bulk, not > spray) cans of hammertone green and silver along with some oil base > pigment from yellow and black tubes. > > (Glad my 1953 used wrinkle finish black). > > Have fun, > > -Roland > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2607.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 152187 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2608.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 147261 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2609.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 117481 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 2 01:36:00 2021 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 09:36:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> References: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> Message-ID: Does the distributor rotate? Has timing been lost because of a loose clamp bolt? Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-4-2021 om 03:16 schreef Mike Sinclair via Healeys: > > I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8).? Was running > great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. > Tach went to zero instantly.? Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for > awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with > starter fluid.? Not a whimper. > > So far I have: > > Checked for spark at a plug.? OK, but may not be under load. > > Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. > > Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage > at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, > all 12v. > > Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked > for spark on opening points.? I get a good 3/16" spark. > > Checked point gap.? 0.015".? Points look new. > > Replaced condenser.? I've heard they are not always ok.? No change. > > The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points.? > Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. > > Puff test on carbs.? OK. > > Any ideas?? Coil? > > Thanks, Mike > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 03:52:16 2021 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 05:52:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: <628e6286-3c97-a6f7-3f1e-3a65a28dc1de@comcast.net> References: <628e6286-3c97-a6f7-3f1e-3a65a28dc1de@comcast.net> Message-ID: Did you replace the rotor? Jon Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 1, 2021, at 10:14 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is stock. Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white with black tracer. > > Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not, it's probably a bad rotor (new or not). > > bs > > On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via Healeys wrote: >> Mike, >> Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the boot. This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the switch not allowing the engine to fire. It turns over as if all is well, just won't start. >> >> Take care, >> >> George Haywood >> '65 bj8 >> >> From: Healeys on behalf of Mike Sinclair via Healeys >> Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM >> To: AH Mail List >> Subject: [Healeys] It just quit >> >> I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. Tach went to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter fluid. Not a whimper. >> >> So far I have: >> >> Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but may not be under load. >> >> Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. >> >> Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v. >> >> Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked for spark on opening points. I get a good 3/16" spark. >> >> Checked point gap. 0.015". Points look new. >> >> Replaced condenser. I've heard they are not always ok. No change. >> >> The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points. Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. >> >> Puff test on carbs. OK. >> >> Any ideas? Coil? >> >> Thanks, Mike >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 05:49:47 2021 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 11:49:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Thank you these pictures are great. Nice work. Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________________________________ From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 12:15 AM To: S and T Miller Cc: sentenac.rw at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh Shawn, The excerpt from the Guidelines was the process Roger Moment developed and he and I used on my Jan. '55 BN1 air cleaners. If done correctly, the results are near perfect, but judge for yourself from the attached photos. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com > Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 6:54 PM To: S and T Miller > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh Here's what the Concours Guide of 2018 says: Air cleaners were painted black in 1953 and 1954. The original air cleaners on BN1L142618 (built 25-Aug.-53) had a black wrinkle/crackle finish. By Jan 1955 they were painted hammertone green (see Photo ? Figure II-3). Hammertone green was similar to engine green thru BN2?s. Hammertone blue air cleaners have been noted on some early BN1s. Hammertone green can be mixed using Hammerite quart (bulk, not spray) cans of hammertone green and silver along with some oil base pigment from yellow and black tubes. (Glad my 1953 used wrinkle finish black). Have fun, -Roland -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah53 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 06:49:06 2021 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 12:49:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1287291477.100799.1617367746110@mail.yahoo.com> If I remember correctly according to the Bill Piggott book on the 100 if the car had the engine chrome valve cover the air cleaners were chrome also. ?Please feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken Joe#923 On Friday, April 2, 2021, 07:50:13 AM EDT, S and T Miller via Healeys wrote: Thank you these pictures are great. Nice work.Shawn The Millers ? "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 12:15 AM To: S and T Miller Cc: sentenac.rw at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh?Shawn, The excerpt from the Guidelines was the process Roger?Moment developed and he and I used on my Jan. '55 BN1 air cleaners.? If done correctly, the results are near perfect, but judge for yourself from the attached photos. Cheers, Curt ArndtCarlsbad, CA'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) From:sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 6:54 PM To: S and T Miller Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh?Here's what the Concours Guide of 2018 says: Air cleaners were painted black in 1953 and 1954.? The original air cleaners on BN1L142618 (built 25-Aug.-53) had a black wrinkle/crackle finish.? By Jan 1955 they were painted hammertone green (see Photo ? Figure II-3).? Hammertone green was similar to engine green thru BN2?s. Hammertone blue air cleaners have been noted on some early BN1s.? Hammertone green can be mixed using Hammerite quart (bulk, not spray) cans of hammertone green and silver along with some oil base pigment from yellow and black tubes.? (Glad my 1953 used wrinkle finish black). Have fun, -Roland _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bn2cars at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 07:08:29 2021 From: bn2cars at gmail.com (Donald Tate) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 09:08:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo not working Message-ID: A friend?s BJ8 speedometer is giving us fits. New cable and angle drive didn?t solve the problem. We can get it to work in the garage while jacked up but once on the road, nothing! We?ve tried different combinations of old/new angle drives and cables to get it working in the garage but we must be overlooking something. Any suggestions are appreciated! Sent from my iPhone From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 07:12:25 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 09:12:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo not working In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I encountered a similar problem years ago. Eventually traced it to the short piece of cable in the angle drive slipping inside the gear. Not likely to be the case on 2 angle drives but may be worth checking. M On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 9:09 AM Donald Tate wrote: > A friend?s BJ8 speedometer is giving us fits. New cable and angle drive > didn?t solve the problem. We can get it to work in the garage while jacked > up but once on the road, nothing! We?ve tried different combinations of > old/new angle drives and cables to get it working in the garage but we must > be overlooking something. > Any suggestions are appreciated! > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 08:16:31 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 07:16:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo not working In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <140e16b5-e757-e73e-c394-50d7e1e59a45@comcast.net> It works fine on jackstands in gear with the engine running, but not on the road? That is odd, and I've dealt with quite a few speedo issues over the years. The angle drive requires a small washer in the adapter on, I think, the OD side of the adapter (Moss# 324-720). I believe it's to reduce wear, but could be a factor (without out it, the angle drive could have issues, as Michael suggested). Inside the speedo, the cable drives a magnet carrier, which drives the speed needle and a worm gear, which drives the odometer and trip meter gears. Does the odometer work, but not the speed needle? Bob On 4/2/2021 6:12 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > I encountered a similar problem years ago. > Eventually traced it to the short piece of cable in the angle drive > slipping inside the gear. > Not likely to be the case on 2 angle drives but may be worth checking. > > M > > On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 9:09 AM Donald Tate > wrote: > > A friend?s BJ8 speedometer is giving us fits. New cable and angle > drive didn?t solve the problem. We can get it to work in the > garage while jacked up but once on the road, nothing! We?ve tried > different combinations of old/new angle drives and cables to get > it working in the garage but we must be overlooking something. > Any suggestions are appreciated! > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 08:19:20 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 07:19:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo not working In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31df8e69-26c5-e253-fdbd-7ce410661c31@comcast.net> This might help (attached). On 4/2/2021 6:12 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > I encountered a similar problem years ago. > Eventually traced it to the short piece of cable in the angle drive > slipping inside the gear. > Not likely to be the case on 2 angle drives but may be worth checking. > > M > > On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 9:09 AM Donald Tate > wrote: > > A friend?s BJ8 speedometer is giving us fits. New cable and angle > drive didn?t solve the problem. We can get it to work in the > garage while jacked up but once on the road, nothing! We?ve tried > different combinations of old/new angle drives and cables to get > it working in the garage but we must be overlooking something. > Any suggestions are appreciated! > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Speedo_Repair.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1368519 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 09:30:27 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 08:30:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Any manifold paint would need be high temp. I ceramic coated my intake silver and exhaust black. No fade Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Apr 1, 2021, 5:33 AM S and T Miller via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > To give a some background on my project. I'm working on a 56' standard 100 > BN2. 90k mile car stored indoors for over 40 years. Some areas of the car > are amazingly original/ clean/ untouched. But of course it has its demons > as well. So I'm doing a lot of "preservation" where possible, and > restoration where needed. > > Anyway, in reading the concours standards it sounds like the standard 100 > intake manifold and exhaust manifold are painted engine color? I have > traces of engine color on the balance pipe, but absolutely nothing on the > intakes. > > I was thinking of painting the air cleaners with hammortone > silver/aluminum paint and overpainting with a light coat of engine color, > but was interested in what others have done to achieve the correct look? > > Thanks all, Shawn > > The Millers > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Fri Apr 2 10:06:50 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 09:06:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment In-Reply-To: <7bea7425-6085-2258-eaae-3b9b0627ea0f@comcast.net> References: <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net> <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net> <7bea7425-6085-2258-eaae-3b9b0627ea0f@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob - just for interest. Your large caliper (that I don't have) idea got me thinking and remembering that I have one of those digital inclinometer angle boxes that I use to set up my saw. The spec. claims 0.1 deg accuracy and it is spot on when comparing to an engineering square. So I used this as shown in the photos to set the shoe at 90 deg to the hub (not backplate) The 0.1 deg error translates into 4 thou at the edge of the 2.25 in width shoe. rg Virus-free. www.avg.com <#m_-7669012680146910556_m_-3776431408075102407_m_1361073115451807287_m_-5172995836679361624_m_-4484756418943175278_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 7:31 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, but only > with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes aren't centered they > will wear uneven, and lock up uneven. > > The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not easy/cheap > to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each other. If they are, > they should be orthogonal to the backplate. > > Bob > > On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory. I've > got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in place and > are still greasy. > I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just to > provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks. > > M > > On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Bob, >> Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function is to >> prevent metal to metal contact ? >> So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ? >> Will try to locate something suitable. >> >> Wonder how you adjust these pegs ? >> There seems to be 3 different techniques: >> >> The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes. >> >> The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting to >> the mid point. >> >> The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the brakes) then >> adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped. >> >> I tend to favour the last method .... ? >> >> Tkx >> rg >> >> >> > Virus-free. www.avg.com <#m_-7669012680146910556_m_-3776431408075102407_m_1361073115451807287_m_-5172995836679361624_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210401_112009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4130885 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210401_112033.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2215210 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Apr 2 10:45:17 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 12:45:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Regular maintenance needed References: <2E7A0811-05CC-4465-93CB-9241B1003D93.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <2E7A0811-05CC-4465-93CB-9241B1003D93@aol.com> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7304.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 118323 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- When things just don?t work like they should... maintenance is long overdue! From the archives.... Perry Sent from my iPhone From banjojohn at cox.net Fri Apr 2 16:57:31 2021 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John OBrien) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 17:57:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] It just quit In-Reply-To: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> References: <8cc104ed-e0da-5b86-9092-31e85ca7689c@comcast.net> Message-ID: Mike: This might be a wild shot in the dark,but have you inspected your new rotor carefully?? a few years ago we were in Waco for the Conclave and our BJ8 quit running on us after acting weird for a few miles.? It ended up that the little locator tab inside the rotor had sheared and the rotor could now move around. It would still generate a spark, but not at the right time. Luckily I had a spare rotor and replacing it got us back on the road.? I found it when I had the Dist. cap off and tried turning the rotor.? Low and behold it could turn on the shaft.? I hope you find the problem whatever it is. John O'Brien '61 Bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) On 4/1/2021 8:16 PM, Mike Sinclair via Healeys wrote: > > I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8).? Was running > great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. > Tach went to zero instantly.? Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for > awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with > starter fluid.? Not a whimper. > > So far I have: > > Checked for spark at a plug.? OK, but may not be under load. > > Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty. > > Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage > at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, > all 12v. > > Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked > for spark on opening points.? I get a good 3/16" spark. > > Checked point gap.? 0.015".? Points look new. > > Replaced condenser.? I've heard they are not always ok.? No change. > > The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points.? > Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc. > > Puff test on carbs.? OK. > > Any ideas?? Coil? > > Thanks, Mike > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Fri Apr 2 17:12:10 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy and Madelyn. ?My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). ?Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 17:27:27 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:27:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My late wife named our BJ8, "Barbie" because she said, "That bitch gets everything". (Also, the connection to Barbie having a BJ8 in the 60's). Rich ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of llennep--- via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 4:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. I will not go into names of past cars. Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 17:28:26 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2021 16:28:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 1953 BN1 named Penelope, or Penny for short. Named for the pretty penny she cost me over 23 years to restore. -Roland On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: >Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy and Madelyn. ?My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). ?Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From s.hutchings at rogers.com Fri Apr 2 17:11:46 2021 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 19:11:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion References: <1226640E-EA6B-4BCB-958A-921A6AA2E872.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <1226640E-EA6B-4BCB-958A-921A6AA2E872@rogers.com> I?m getting around to installing that new exhaust and I have the stainless version of the fastening pieces. I?ve figured out most of it, but the mounting point at the back of the main mufflers has me confused. The kit comes with two bonded rubber mounts, but the bolt pattern under the car only seems to have the right orientation for one of the mounts. To be more clear, one set of bolts, or studs, come down one in front of the other so that the mount slots into them, and then there is a right angle bracket that then attaches to the double spaced clamp that goes over the top of the pipes. But because the kit has two of these mounts, and two right angle brackets, I expected there to be a mirror image example next to it. But no, I?ve got another set of two studs that are diagonally oriented. Difficult to describe exactly what?s going on, but the diagrams I can find of the system show one of these mounts above the double pipe bracket, and I?d assumed there were two because my kit came with two. Maybe my car doesn?t have the correct studs? The old system was held on with a non-stock arrangement. Thanks for any advice. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: exhaust mounting.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42241 bytes Desc: not available URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Apr 2 17:57:19 2021 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 16:57:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This subject was on The List a while back but I can not find any evidence. I think, at the time, I stated that my wife tells everyone that If I could, I would park the car in the lining room. She named the car: The First Mrs. Hartnett (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: llennep--- via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 02, 2021 4:12 PM Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. I will not go into names of past cars. Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: face-with-medical-mask_1f637.png Type: image/png Size: 15683 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 2 19:10:58 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 01:10:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Message-ID: <3ed6cf138dc8317f8d09342dfdd13caa8cd029fa@webmail> This is me with eggyoke, my '74 J-H. (if you want to pun a car-this is the one to use) Hank -----------------------------------------From: "sentenac.rw--- via Healeys" To: llennep at verizon.net Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday April 2 2021 4:29:40PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars 1953 BN1 named Penelope, or Penny for short. Named for the pretty penny she cost me over 23 years to restore. -Roland On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: >Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: eggyokewdriver.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 182072 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Apr 2 19:20:24 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 21:20:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars References: <2C90B8BC-CD9E-44B7-8AFB-61C841CB968E.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <2C90B8BC-CD9E-44B7-8AFB-61C841CB968E@aol.com> Red Car- 55 100 BN2 Yellow Car - Modified 100 Not much behind the names except a gallon or two of paint P Sent from my iPhone From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 2 19:26:34 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 18:26:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion In-Reply-To: <1226640E-EA6B-4BCB-958A-921A6AA2E872@rogers.com> References: <1226640E-EA6B-4BCB-958A-921A6AA2E872.ref@rogers.com> <1226640E-EA6B-4BCB-958A-921A6AA2E872@rogers.com> Message-ID: <00b601d72828$636a4230$2a3ec690$@sbcglobal.net> I don?t know how the BJ8 mounts are but they look similar to the BT7. If so, the bonded rubber block un-bonds with slightest knock on the pavement. I made custom ones that use the same mounting chassis mounting holes but it uses modern off the shelf rubber isolators. I had to weld the front mounting bar to the muffler. Not a single problem and it has been over 6,000 miles. On the BT7 the front mount bolts to the floor pan and the rear mount bolts to the frame so one is horizontal and the other is vertical. John BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 4:12 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion I?m getting around to installing that new exhaust and I have the stainless version of the fastening pieces. I?ve figured out most of it, but the mounting point at the back of the main mufflers has me confused. The kit comes with two bonded rubber mounts, but the bolt pattern under the car only seems to have the right orientation for one of the mounts. To be more clear, one set of bolts, or studs, come down one in front of the other so that the mount slots into them, and then there is a right angle bracket that then attaches to the double spaced clamp that goes over the top of the pipes. But because the kit has two of these mounts, and two right angle brackets, I expected there to be a mirror image example next to it. But no, I?ve got another set of two studs that are diagonally oriented. Difficult to describe exactly what?s going on, but the diagrams I can find of the system show one of these mounts above the double pipe bracket, and I?d assumed there were two because my kit came with two. Maybe my car doesn?t have the correct studs? The old system was held on with a non-stock arrangement. Thanks for any advice. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42241 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_2069.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1328442 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_2072.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 889311 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_2073.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 770847 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_2074.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 962988 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 2 20:06:37 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 02:06:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion Message-ID: <690673bf0740802ab03d4beaf83f2faf091849df@webmail> Solved the problem: the bonded rubber block un-bonds with slightest knock on the pavement Drill thru the mount and block and add a long rivet and washer; then when it un-bonds it will stay together and still function as a dampner. -----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur via Healeys" To: "Stephen Hutchings" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday April 2 2021 6:38:40PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion I don?t know how the BJ8 mounts are but they look similar to the BT7. If so, the bonded rubber block un-bonds with slightest knock on the pavement. I made custom ones that use the same mounting chassis mounting holes but it uses modern off the shelf rubber isolators. I had to weld the front mounting bar to the muffler. Not a single problem and it has been over 6,000 miles. On the BT7 the front mount bolts to the floor pan and the rear mount bolts to the frame so one is horizontal and the other is vertical. John BT7 FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Stephen Hutchings via Healeys SENT: Friday, April 2, 2021 4:12 PM TO: Healey Mail List SUBJECT: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust confusion I?m getting around to installing that new exhaust and I have the stainless version of the fastening pieces. I?ve figured out most of it, but the mounting point at the back of the main mufflers has me confused. The kit comes with two bonded rubber mounts, but the bolt pattern under the car only seems to have the right orientation for one of the mounts. To be more clear, one set of bolts, or studs, come down one in front of the other so that the mount slots into them, and then there is a right angle bracket that then attaches to the double spaced clamp that goes over the top of the pipes. But because the kit has two of these mounts, and two right angle brackets, I expected there to be a mirror image example next to it. But no, I?ve got another set of two studs that are diagonally oriented. Difficult to describe exactly what?s going on, but the diagrams I can find of the system show one of these mounts above the double pipe bracket, and I?d assumed there were two because my kit came with two. Maybe my car doesn?t have the correct studs? The old system was held on with a non-stock arrangement. Thanks for any advice. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cbaustin at verizon.net Fri Apr 2 20:08:15 2021 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 22:08:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: BN1?????? -?????? #$@&^%*(%^ - not again!! BE?????? -?????? *&^#$@%^*)^%$ - what now?? CB -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 20:36:38 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 22:36:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have never given my 100 a name, but after I bought my second (ex)wife a 1960 two-seater I got for us what I think are a great pair of Maryland vanity license plates: HISBN1 and HERBN7. Though divorced we're still friends and the cars' plates still remain the same. Best--Michael Oritt On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 10:09 PM Charley Braum via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > BN1?????? -?????? #$@&^%*(%^ - not again!! > > BE?????? -?????? *&^#$@%^*)^%$ - what now?? > > > CB > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 20:45:35 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 19:45:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment In-Reply-To: References: <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net> <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net> <7bea7425-6085-2258-eaae-3b9b0627ea0f@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6dec9941-e658-4a5a-a7b9-a02d78485ee1@comcast.net> Great idea, Roger! I bought an alignment kit with a similar inclinometer. Bob On 4/2/2021 9:06 AM, Roger Grace wrote: > Bob - just for interest. > Your large caliper (that I don't have)? idea got me thinking and > remembering that I have one of those digital inclinometer angle boxes > that I use to set up my saw. > The spec. claims 0.1 deg accuracy and it is spot on when comparing to > an engineering square. > So I used this as shown in the photos to set the shoe at 90 deg to the > hub (not backplate) > The 0.1 deg error translates into 4 thou at the edge of the 2.25 in > width shoe. > rg > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 7:31 PM Bob Spidell > wrote: > > I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, > but only with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes > aren't centered they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven. > > The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not > easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each > other. If they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate. > > Bob > > On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >> Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not >> satisfactory.? I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still >> have the felts in place and are still greasy. >> I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just >> to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks. >> >> M >> >> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, >> > wrote: >> >> Bob, >> Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only >> function is to prevent metal to metal contact ? >> So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the >> pegs ? >> Will try to locate something suitable. >> >> Wonder how you adjust these pegs ? >> There seems to be 3 different techniques: >> >> The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes. >> >> The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then >> setting to the mid point. >> >> The usual? method - centering? the shoes (by stomping on the >> brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact while >> shoes are clamped. >> >> I tend to favour the last method .... ? >> >> Tkx >> rg >> >> > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 21:02:27 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2021 20:02:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Free to a good home (or even a bad one) Message-ID: Five lightly used Nexen 165/80HR15 tires with wheels. The tires are 8 years old, but have always been garaged and have less than 1,000 miles (the spare has never been used). Wheels are probably original to my '56 BN2; they are only, IMO, suitable for a rolling chassis or VERY light road use. One has a couple slightly bent spokes and most of the splines show wear (though they never 'skipped' on me). Not worth shipping, but if anyone near enough to Modesto, CA wants them they're yours; else they go to the dump. Bob -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0644.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 117929 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0642.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112321 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0641.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 134400 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0640.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 126416 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 23:36:53 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (R F BEGANI) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 01:36:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Message-ID: Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Black watery sooty liquid From: Bob Begani Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM To: Bob Begani CC: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1700.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3382956 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Apr 3 00:12:28 2021 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 17:12:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f901d72850$54181c80$fc485580$@tpg.com.au> Hello Both my Healey and Austin-Healey do the same. It?s soot in the exhaust system mixing with the moist exhaust gases and escaping out the exhaust pipe. It?s normal and if you let the exhaust system heat up to normal operating temperature it will stop, which is also normal. Our four year old Mercedes-Benz does the same. When you burn a litre of petrol it mixes with oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide and water plus heat of course. That carbon dioxide and water has to go somewhere and if the engine/exhaust is hot enough it evaporates but if it?s not warm it comes out as dirty water. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R F BEGANI via Healeys Sent: Saturday, 3 April 2021 4:37 PM To: Healey Email list Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Black watery sooty liquid From: Bob Begani Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM To: Bob Begani CC: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 3 03:37:45 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 10:37:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d7286d$05a69af0$10f3d0d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Don?t drill for God?s sake. It?s just soot and condensation. It stops when the system warms up and dries itself out. I?ve always presumed this to be the cause of mild steel boxes rusting from the inside out. When mild steel systems were more or less universal and cars? tuning was not up to modern standards, we were told that a car always had to run for so long or so far in order to dry out the exhaust. All of which is probably moot as most of our cars exhaust boxes don?t last long enough to rust! My stainless is still holding together but, despite my care and attention, it has some very significant dents and bashes. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of R F BEGANI via Healeys Sent: 03 April 2021 06:37 To: Healey Email list Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Black watery sooty liquid From: Bob Begani > Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM To: Bob Begani > CC: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 3 03:52:33 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 10:52:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment In-Reply-To: <6dec9941-e658-4a5a-a7b9-a02d78485ee1@comcast.net> References: <4494f800-1325-8d54-9ccb-647055af335d@comcast.net> <63b0318e-7fa9-6d55-2832-1f534ef02b93@comcast.net> <7bea7425-6085-2258-eaae-3b9b0627ea0f@comcast.net> <6dec9941-e658-4a5a-a7b9-a02d78485ee1@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000a01d7286f$13b4b5d0$3b1e2170$@alexarevel.plus.com> Mine is called ?The Old Banger?. Not always and only by me. Don?t know if the expression ?old banger? has made it off these shores. It infers a slightly disreputable old car, usually on its last legs. Often to be found on a dodgy garage forecourt, mutton sold as lamb. To be fair, I?m not quite sure how I?ve got into the habit of calling it that. The car is nothing special, but the name is not fair. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys Sent: 03 April 2021 03:46 To: Roger Grace Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment Great idea, Roger! I bought an alignment kit with a similar inclinometer. Bob On 4/2/2021 9:06 AM, Roger Grace wrote: Bob - just for interest. Your large caliper (that I don't have) idea got me thinking and remembering that I have one of those digital inclinometer angle boxes that I use to set up my saw. The spec. claims 0.1 deg accuracy and it is spot on when comparing to an engineering square. So I used this as shown in the photos to set the shoe at 90 deg to the hub (not backplate) The 0.1 deg error translates into 4 thou at the edge of the 2.25 in width shoe. rg Virus-free. www.avg.com On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 7:31 PM Bob Spidell > wrote: I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well, but only with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes aren't centered they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven. The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each other. If they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate. Bob On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory. I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in place and are still greasy. I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks. M On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, > wrote: Bob, Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only function is to prevent metal to metal contact ? So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ? Will try to locate something suitable. Wonder how you adjust these pegs ? There seems to be 3 different techniques: The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes. The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting to the mid point. The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped. I tend to favour the last method .... ? Tkx rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Apr 3 05:35:33 2021 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 11:35:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Message-ID: <28a7c17ea57dbc4e468455afa68bfcdce2f72511@webmail> My BJ8 sold new at a dealership in Raleigh, North Carolina and has stayed in eastern North Carolina since then through seven owners. My wife thought it was a real "Tar Heel Healey" -- TARHEELY Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA ----------------------------------------- From: "llennep--- via Healeys" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Friday April 2 2021 7:13:02PM Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. I will not go into names of past cars. Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2990.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 216978 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Apr 3 05:52:51 2021 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 07:52:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <28a7c17ea57dbc4e468455afa68bfcdce2f72511@webmail> References: <28a7c17ea57dbc4e468455afa68bfcdce2f72511@webmail> Message-ID: <000701d7287f$e0d593d0$a280bb70$@verizon.net> I always thought that this was the best name John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 7:36 AM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars My BJ8 sold new at a dealership in Raleigh, North Carolina and has stayed in eastern North Carolina since then through seven owners. My wife thought it was a real "Tar Heel Healey" -- TARHEELY Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA ----------------------------------------- From: "llennep--- via Healeys" To: "healeys at autox.team.net " Cc: Sent: Friday April 2 2021 7:13:02PM Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. I will not go into names of past cars. Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Apr 3 06:11:16 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 08:11:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02e701d72882$72ef8bc0$58cea340$@sympatico.ca> Oddly, I have never named my ?59 BT7, no suitable name ever appealed to me. However, my Sequoia ?48 M.G. TC immediately was named ?Lollobrigida? (Lolo). This nickname was purloined from a 1930s-something Talbot, which was the first car any of my parent?s friends owned back in England, and which sported the first steering wheel I ever held, when at the age of 1 yr, I was hoisted onto the front seat, and standing, held the wheel for a photo op. That Lollobrigida was named after the actress (whose curves were infinitely more appealing than the Talbot?s). Both that car and Gina Lollobrigida mean something to me. My ?35 M.G. PA is ?Ruby?, because it is two tones of red. It came with the name and while unimaginative, seeing Ruby and Lollobrigida beside each other conjures up pleasant thoughts However, the best-ever named car was the Series 1 Land Rover in the movie ?The God?s Must Be Crazy?, whose mechanic was forever beneath it muttering an unintelligible stream of profanity. That Land Rover was known by the mechanic as ? The Antichrist?. Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sat Apr 3 09:28:44 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 15:28:44 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars Message-ID: <65b6aa96-b8fe-4a59-a2e0-009f822c8524@me.com> My last BN1 I named Stella. She was red with a black interior, very Italian and also a nod to Gerry Coker who was thrilled that Donald was asked "who was the Italian who designed your car?". And also because her original owner was a gentleman named Stanley Horn and many years ago, the computer graphic machine I worked with was used to create an animation: "Stanley and Stella". ???My present BN1 I named "Lilly". She is made from a bunch of cobbled parts from different cars, has what appears as major frame repairs and generally just gives me fits. So I looked on the Internet to see if the bridge of Frankenstein had a first name, and lo and behold, Lilly it is!? ???I haven't named my '70 MGB/GT yet. But I will when it comes to me. Fun subject. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 2, 2021 at 4:13 PM, llennep--- via Healeys wrote: Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. John has Lucy and Madelyn. ?My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). ?Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. I will not go into names of past cars. Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 09:36:45 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 08:36:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've never been into naming my cars. But, I did give an ex-wife a new name ....... "the plaintiff". On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 7:45 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have never given my 100 a name, but after I bought my second (ex)wife a > 1960 two-seater I got for us what I think are a great pair of Maryland > vanity license plates: HISBN1 and HERBN7. Though divorced we're still > friends and the cars' plates still remain the same. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 10:09 PM Charley Braum via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> BN1?????? -?????? #$@&^%*(%^ - not again!! >> >> BE?????? -?????? *&^#$@%^*)^%$ - what now?? >> >> >> CB >> >> -- >> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >> https://www.avg.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Sat Apr 3 09:53:22 2021 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 16:53:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <75732fbe-cba3-745f-7d5c-52e0e9eb0f9a@summaventures.com> My 57 100/6 BN4 became known as "Healey D" when my daughter (then probably aged seven or eight) painted a picture of it and wrote above it. Until a few years ago I still had the painting. I have no idea what happened to it. Peter On 03/04/2021 00:12, llennep--- via Healeys wrote: > Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. > John has Lucy and Madelyn. ?My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he > was a tot). ?Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai > Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. > I will not go into names of past cars. > Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From bsahemails at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:06:37 2021 From: bsahemails at gmail.com (bsahemails at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 12:06:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <75732fbe-cba3-745f-7d5c-52e0e9eb0f9a@summaventures.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> <75732fbe-cba3-745f-7d5c-52e0e9eb0f9a@summaventures.com> Message-ID: <026801d728a3$53da8890$fb8f99b0$@gmail.com> My British Racing Green '58 MGA growing up was named the "Green Coffin". I figured if I was ever in an accident, they would just have to bury me and the whole car! Bob On 03/04/2021 00:12, llennep--- via Healeys wrote: > Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. > John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when > he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a > Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. > I will not go into names of past cars. > Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bsahemails at gmail.com From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:12:14 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 12:12:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <65b6aa96-b8fe-4a59-a2e0-009f822c8524@me.com> References: <65b6aa96-b8fe-4a59-a2e0-009f822c8524@me.com> Message-ID: My BJ7 Nasty Boy has been named "The Kingmaker" which seems like it might be a name given to a '60s drag racer. History fans will know my name, Richard Neville, coincides with that of the 16th Earl of Warwick who was known as The Kingmaker during the War of the Roses. He was the owner of Warwick Castle, the same cattle that appears on the Healey badge. Rick Neville No relation whatsoever to the Earl of Warwick. Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sat, Apr 3, 2021 at 11:30 AM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > My last BN1 I named Stella. She was red with a black interior, very > Italian and also a nod to Gerry Coker who was thrilled that Donald was > asked "who was the Italian who designed your car?". And also because her > original owner was a gentleman named Stanley Horn and many years ago, the > computer graphic machine I worked with was used to create an animation: > "Stanley and Stella". > My present BN1 I named "Lilly". She is made from a bunch of cobbled > parts from different cars, has what appears as major frame repairs and > generally just gives me fits. So I looked on the Internet to see if the > bridge of Frankenstein had a first name, and lo and behold, Lilly it is! > I haven't named my '70 MGB/GT yet. But I will when it comes to me. > Fun subject. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > On April 2, 2021 at 4:13 PM, llennep--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. > John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he > was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa > Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. > I will not go into names of past cars. > Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:28:52 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 09:28:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1493087695.452921.1617405130110.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1493087695.452921.1617405130110@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The Healey is the Beast. My Dodge truck is Big Red Waiting on my wife to name the 67 B project I bought her. The 65 Sprite is called Flip because I bought it to fix up and sell, so we have money for the B project. Cheers Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 2, 2021, 4:13 PM llennep--- via Healeys wrote: > Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this. > John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he > was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa > Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy. > I will not go into names of past cars. > Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Apr 3 10:47:40 2021 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 16:47:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We stand those we don't like behind Healeys when we start the car (especially if they are wearing white pants of shorts). ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of R F BEGANI via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021 10:36 PM To: Healey Email list Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Black watery sooty liquid From: Bob Begani Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM To: Bob Begani CC: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Apr 3 12:01:04 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2021 18:01:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Message-ID: <9477ce05a1cc49e4d5562ca6c07f2657fe73bde3@webmail> Yes, that is the sole purpose of the upward exhaust! Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Richard Kahn via Healeys" To: "Healey Email list", "R F BEGANI" Cc: Sent: Saturday April 3 2021 9:48:34AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid We stand those we don't like behind Healeys when we start the car (especially if they are wearing white pants of shorts). ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of R F BEGANI via Healeys SENT: Friday, April 2, 2021 10:36 PM TO: Healey Email list SUBJECT: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- SUBJECT: Black watery sooty liquid FROM: Bob Begani SENT: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM TO: Bob Begani CC: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 12:19:17 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 11:19:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: <00f901d72850$54181c80$fc485580$@tpg.com.au> References: <00f901d72850$54181c80$fc485580$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: What he said. My Austin Healey has done this since I started the engine 46 yeas ago Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 2, 2021, 11:13 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hello > > > > Both my Healey and Austin-Healey do the same. It?s soot in the exhaust > system mixing with the moist exhaust gases and escaping out the exhaust > pipe. It?s normal and if you let the exhaust system heat up to normal > operating temperature it will stop, which is also normal. > > > > Our four year old Mercedes-Benz does the same. > > > > When you burn a litre of petrol it mixes with oxygen and gives off carbon > dioxide and water plus heat of course. That carbon dioxide and water has to > go somewhere and if the engine/exhaust is hot enough it evaporates but if > it?s not warm it comes out as dirty water. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *R > F BEGANI via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, 3 April 2021 4:37 PM > *To:* Healey Email list > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid > > > > Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. > Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on > what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going > strong > > Bob Begani > > > > -------- Original Message -------- > *Subject:* Black watery sooty liquid > *From:* Bob Begani > *Sent:* Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM > *To:* Bob Begani > *CC:* > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 13:11:59 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 15:11:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak, rear seal etc. Message-ID: <008301d728bd$39251320$ab6f3960$@gmail.com> Thanks for all your comments. In addition, I searched Oil Leaks in the archives and copied 3 pages of comments going back to 2000 approximately. It is interesting. Many indicated no longer any oil leaks after installing new rear seal. Some indicated they still had some leakage. Some indicated oil leakage stopped after installing Positive Crankcase Ventilation. So, I installed a PCV system by attaching a hose to the 1/4-inch opening next to the current 3/8-inch opening used by the brake booster. I had to use ?-inch fuel rubber tubing attached to the pcv valve at the T on top of the valve cover. As my aluminum valve cover had a side vent, I sealed it off with a piece of rubber. Then I went for a 24-mile ride in traffic and on the highways not exceeding 60 mph just incase and came home. I let the engine run at idle with the fan and electric water pump running for a while and put a sheet of cardboard under the weep hole. While I was doing that there were no oil drops. In addition, I walked my driveway and found no drips. Nevertheless, I placed a can underneath the weep hole overnight. In the morning, I found one drop in the can which could be left over from the previous heavy dripping. I have done this test three times no dripping and no measure loss of oil on the dip stick. As soon as I am comfortable with the results, I will take a highway run at 65 -75 plus. Meanwhile, may solve the problem of rear seal oil leakage and, no doubt anywhere else on the engine. Eventually, I will have to pull the trans, clutch etc. to clean the clutch or replace the clutch friction disk as it is slipping due to oil. At that time will look at the new added on seal. Current question is who has no leaks after rebuild with or without PVC system? Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Apr 3 13:31:10 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 12:31:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head Message-ID: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cylinder Head.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 2383279 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 13:40:50 2021 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 15:40:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> References: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <3F49B91E-4E7C-441B-9E6E-4ACBD3954908@gmail.com> used for the short-lived thermo carb. > On Apr 3, 2021, at 3:31 PM, Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote: > > Hello, > > What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. Item 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and it is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. > > Harold Manifold > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Apr 3 13:56:01 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 19:56:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <378628544.162523.1617479673270@mail.yahoo.com> References: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> <378628544.162523.1617479673270@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com> -----Original Message----- From: healeyguy at aol.com To: manifold at telus.net Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:54 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head HaroldThermo electric choke introduced in July 1959. Manual choke used again in November 1959.?Perry -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold via Healeys To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:31 pm Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head #yiv0013660599 #yiv0013660599 -- filtered {}#yiv0013660599 filtered {}#yiv0013660599 p.yiv0013660599MsoNormal, #yiv0013660599 li.yiv0013660599MsoNormal, #yiv0013660599 div.yiv0013660599MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0013660599 .yiv0013660599MsoChpDefault {}#yiv0013660599 filtered {}#yiv0013660599 div.yiv0013660599WordSection1 {}#yiv0013660599 Hello, ?What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. Item 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and it is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. ?Harold Manifold ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 3 14:06:17 2021 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 16:06:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com> References: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> This is what it looks like in my late production 67 BJ-8 . Yes a thermal choke that I guess never worked out . Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:01 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > > ? > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeyguy at aol.com > To: manifold at telus.net > Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:54 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head > > Harold > Thermo electric choke introduced in July 1959. Manual choke used again in November 1959. > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold via Healeys > To: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:31 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head > > Hello, > > What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. Item 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and it is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. > > Harold Manifold > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2299635 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Apr 3 15:12:35 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 14:12:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> References: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com>, <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <95865EA1-F79A-4C8E-BF86-64FE287CEBE5@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 9D8625BE4BC4497295B530036A051598.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2124456 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jtkarowe at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 15:28:20 2021 From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 07:28:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <95865EA1-F79A-4C8E-BF86-64FE287CEBE5@hxcore.ol> References: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com> <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> <95865EA1-F79A-4C8E-BF86-64FE287CEBE5@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: I have that on my 59 Bt7. When I bought the car (as a basket case) it had the electric choke switch fitted. I fabricated a cover for the hole. It was quickly discontinued and later heads didn't have the hole. If Don's 67 BJ8 has that, it has evidently been fitted with an early BT/BN7 head. On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 7:21 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thanks for the quick replies. My car was built in Nov 1960 and didn?t have > the hole drilled in casting. I didn?t think of the thermal choke. > > > > Harold Manifold > > > > *From: *Don via Healeys > *Sent: *Saturday, April 3, 2021 1:21 PM > *To: *healeyguy at aol.com > *Cc: *Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head > > > > This is what it looks like in my late production 67 BJ-8 . Yes a thermal > choke that I guess never worked out . > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:01 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeyguy at aol.com > To: manifold at telus.net > Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:54 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head > > Harold > > Thermo electric choke introduced in July 1959. Manual choke used again in > November 1959. > > Perry > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold via Healeys > To: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:31 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head > > Hello, > > > > What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. Item > 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and it > is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. > > > > Harold Manifold > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 9D8625BE4BC4497295B530036A051598.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2124456 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jtkarowe at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 15:36:06 2021 From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 07:36:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak, rear seal etc. In-Reply-To: <008301d728bd$39251320$ab6f3960$@gmail.com> References: <008301d728bd$39251320$ab6f3960$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 5:14 AM Bob Begani via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thanks for all your comments. In addition, I searched Oil Leaks in the > archives and copied 3 pages of comments going back to 2000 approximately. > It is interesting. > > > > Many indicated no longer any oil leaks after installing new rear seal. > Some indicated they still had some leakage. Some indicated oil leakage > stopped after installing Positive Crankcase Ventilation. So, I installed a > PCV system by attaching a hose to the 1/4-inch opening next to the current > 3/8-inch opening used by the brake booster. I had to use ?-inch fuel rubber > tubing attached to the pcv valve at the T on top of the valve cover. As my > aluminum valve cover had a side vent, I sealed it off with a piece of > rubber. Then I went for a 24-mile ride in traffic and on the highways not > exceeding 60 mph just incase and came home. I let the engine run at idle > with the fan and electric water pump running for a while and put a sheet of > cardboard under the weep hole. While I was doing that there were no oil > drops. In addition, I walked my driveway and found no drips. Nevertheless, > I placed a can underneath the weep hole overnight. In the morning, I found > one drop in the can which could be left over from the previous heavy > dripping. I have done this test three times no dripping and no measure > loss of oil on the dip stick. > > > > As soon as I am comfortable with the results, I will take a highway run at > 65 -75 plus. Meanwhile, may solve the problem of rear seal oil leakage > and, no doubt anywhere else on the engine. Eventually, I will have to pull > the trans, clutch etc. to clean the clutch or replace the clutch friction > disk as it is slipping due to oil. At that time will look at the new added > on seal. > > > > Current question is who has no leaks after rebuild with or without PVC > system? > > > > > > > > Bob Begani > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Apr 3 15:12:35 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 14:12:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> References: <830132290.558450.1617479761017@mail.yahoo.com>, <676CE326-BA3F-4DC1-B0DD-D588B4F25BCE@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <95865EA1-F79A-4C8E-BF86-64FE287CEBE5@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 9D8625BE4BC4497295B530036A051598.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2124456 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 16:14:31 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 18:14:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Leak, rear seal etc. In-Reply-To: References: <008301d728bd$39251320$ab6f3960$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <018501d728d6$b8ba79e0$2a2f6da0$@gmail.com> John: I was thinking of the camshaft as the leaker. Will look into it next fall when I have time to pull the trans. Meanwhile, am happy the pcv system has reduced the oil consumption to a trickle. Regards, Bob From: John and Kerry Rowe Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 5:36 PM To: Bob Begani Cc: Austin Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Leak, rear seal etc. I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem. . -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Sat Apr 3 16:22:06 2021 From: 55healey at comcast.net (Robert Westcott) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 15:22:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: References: <00f901d72850$54181c80$fc485580$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <5B74A6CB-1013-4993-83D4-5FE40220761A@comcast.net> My startup solution: > On Apr 3, 2021, at 11:19 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote: > > What he said. My Austin Healey has done this since I started the engine 46 yeas ago > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Fri, Apr 2, 2021, 11:13 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys wrote: > Hello > > > > Both my Healey and Austin-Healey do the same. It?s soot in the exhaust system mixing with the moist exhaust gases and escaping out the exhaust pipe. It?s normal and if you let the exhaust system heat up to normal operating temperature it will stop, which is also normal. > > > > Our four year old Mercedes-Benz does the same. > > > > When you burn a litre of petrol it mixes with oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide and water plus heat of course. That carbon dioxide and water has to go somewhere and if the engine/exhaust is hot enough it evaporates but if it?s not warm it comes out as dirty water. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R F BEGANI via Healeys > Sent: Saturday, 3 April 2021 4:37 PM > To: Healey Email list > Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid > > > > Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong > > Bob Begani > > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: Black watery sooty liquid > From: Bob Begani > Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM > To: Bob Begani > CC: > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/55healey at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: exhaustBag.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2113274 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Apr 3 17:22:48 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 11:22:48 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: <5B74A6CB-1013-4993-83D4-5FE40220761A@comcast.net> References: <00f901d72850$54181c80$fc485580$@tpg.com.au> <5B74A6CB-1013-4993-83D4-5FE40220761A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001d728e0$43d61d50$cb8257f0$@xtra.co.nz> I see you also have a nice Mk II Jag, Robert. Or is it a Daimler? Mark Ardmore NZ From: Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, 4 April 2021 10:22 a.m. To: i erbs Cc: Patrick & Caroline Quinn ; Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid My startup solution: On Apr 3, 2021, at 11:19 AM, i erbs via Healeys > wrote: What he said. My Austin Healey has done this since I started the engine 46 yeas ago Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 2, 2021, 11:13 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys > wrote: Hello Both my Healey and Austin-Healey do the same. It?s soot in the exhaust system mixing with the moist exhaust gases and escaping out the exhaust pipe. It?s normal and if you let the exhaust system heat up to normal operating temperature it will stop, which is also normal. Our four year old Mercedes-Benz does the same. When you burn a litre of petrol it mixes with oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide and water plus heat of course. That carbon dioxide and water has to go somewhere and if the engine/exhaust is hot enough it evaporates but if it?s not warm it comes out as dirty water. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R F BEGANI via Healeys Sent: Saturday, 3 April 2021 4:37 PM To: Healey Email list Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Black watery sooty liquid Every time I start my BJ8 black sooty liquid come out of the exhaust. Should I drill a hole in the muffled and resonators to let it out. Idea on what size an where on stainless steel mufflers 30 years old and still going strong Bob Begani -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Black watery sooty liquid From: Bob Begani > Sent: Friday, April 2, 2021, 12:27 PM To: Bob Begani > CC: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/55healey at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2113274 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jtkarowe at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 17:44:13 2021 From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 09:44:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <5050D735-330D-4BBB-B873-B16D99CF4BDC@yahoo.com> References: <5050D735-330D-4BBB-B873-B16D99CF4BDC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don, I believe I am correct. Check Ditlev Clausager Original Austin Healey, Page 59 Carbs and Fuel System Para 2. Only used from July to November 59. Also photos on P56 to 58 do not show the plates.Your car may have been fitted with a leftover cylinder head ex factory if the motor is as you say untouched John On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 8:50 AM wrote: > I?m not sure your correct on that assumption. I bought this car from the > original owner in 1974. And the motor has never been apart , or ever > replaced . I?ve sense talked with other BJ-8 owners , with this blanking > plate , along with a few restoration shops and my car isn?t the only one > they have seen , my year , with original motors with this blanking plate > installed . > Don > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 3, 2021, at 5:28 PM, John and Kerry Rowe > wrote: > > ? > I have that on my 59 Bt7. When I bought the car (as a basket case) it had > the electric choke switch fitted. I fabricated a cover for the hole. It was > quickly discontinued and later heads didn't have the hole. If Don's 67 BJ8 > has that, it has evidently been fitted with an early BT/BN7 head. > > On Sun, Apr 4, 2021 at 7:21 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Thanks for the quick replies. My car was built in Nov 1960 and didn?t >> have the hole drilled in casting. I didn?t think of the thermal choke. >> >> >> >> Harold Manifold >> >> >> >> *From: *Don via Healeys >> *Sent: *Saturday, April 3, 2021 1:21 PM >> *To: *healeyguy at aol.com >> *Cc: *Healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head >> >> >> >> This is what it looks like in my late production 67 BJ-8 . Yes a thermal >> choke that I guess never worked out . >> >> <9D8625BE4BC4497295B530036A051598.jpg> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> On Apr 3, 2021, at 4:01 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: healeyguy at aol.com >> To: manifold at telus.net >> Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:54 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head >> >> Harold >> >> Thermo electric choke introduced in July 1959. Manual choke used again in >> November 1959. >> >> Perry >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys >> To: Ken Fleming via Healeys >> Sent: Sat, Apr 3, 2021 3:31 pm >> Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head >> >> Hello, >> >> >> >> What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. >> Item 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and >> it is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. >> >> >> >> Harold Manifold >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Sat Apr 3 20:42:59 2021 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 12:42:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <3ed6cf138dc8317f8d09342dfdd13caa8cd029fa@webmail> References: <3ed6cf138dc8317f8d09342dfdd13caa8cd029fa@webmail> Message-ID: I have a mate with the same colour MGB ( for give me ) we all call it the omelette Cheers from Down Under Graeme M ( BJ8 ) No name From: Henry G Leach via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 12:10 PM To: 'sentenac.rw at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars This is me with eggyoke, my '74 J-H. (if you want to pun a car-this is the one to use) Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "sentenac.rw--- via Healeys" To: llennep at verizon.net Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday April 2 2021 4:29:40PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars 1953 BN1 named Penelope, or Penny for short. Named for the pretty penny she cost me over 23 years to restore. -Roland On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: >Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus /> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gturl at sympatico.ca Sat Apr 3 20:44:15 2021 From: gturl at sympatico.ca (gturl gturl) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 22:44:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid Message-ID: <53834218.1733709.1617504255306.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 3 21:24:29 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 20:24:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: References: <3ed6cf138dc8317f8d09342dfdd13caa8cd029fa@webmail> Message-ID: <57d28ed7-bf02-c6c5-64da-09bb37d601e0@comcast.net> Not a Healey--not even a car--but my dad named the fire engine he restored 'Alma,' after his wife of 66 years. On 4/3/2021 7:42 PM, Graeme Molony via Healeys wrote: > I have a mate with the same colour MGB ( for give me ) we all call it > the omelette > Cheers from Down Under > Graeme M ( BJ8 ) No name > > *From:* Henry G Leach via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, April 3, 2021 12:10 PM > *To:* 'sentenac.rw at gmail.com' > *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars > This is me with eggyoke, my '74 J-H. (if you want to pun a car-this is > the one to use) Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "sentenac.rw--- via Healeys" > To: llennep at verizon.net > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Friday April 2 2021 4:29:40PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars > > 1953 BN1 named Penelope, or Penny for short. Named for the pretty > penny she cost me over 23 years to restore. > > -Roland > > > On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: > > >Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy > and Madelyn.? My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot).? > Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and > Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what > names have you given your cars as John and I have? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1497.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1028656 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 23:43:50 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 22:43:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, Nope, the standard green engine paint was applied to both the intake and exhaust manifolds, and in the case of the exhaust manifold, it discolored and burned off rather quickly. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 8:35 AM i erbs via Healeys wrote: > Any manifold paint would need be high temp. I ceramic coated my intake > silver and exhaust black. No fade > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 3 23:55:55 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 22:55:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys] Naming our cars References: <017301d72917$2e6f4630$8b4dd290$.ref@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <017301d72917$2e6f4630$8b4dd290$@sbcglobal.net> I don?t refer to my healey by name often, but when I do the name is Nemesis. John Spaur San Jose ?62 BT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 3 23:55:55 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 22:55:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <57d28ed7-bf02-c6c5-64da-09bb37d601e0@comcast.net> References: <3ed6cf138dc8317f8d09342dfdd13caa8cd029fa@webmail> <57d28ed7-bf02-c6c5-64da-09bb37d601e0@comcast.net> Message-ID: <017801d72917$2f527a40$8df76ec0$@sbcglobal.net> That is so nice in every respect. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 8:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars Not a Healey--not even a car--but my dad named the fire engine he restored 'Alma,' after his wife of 66 years. On 4/3/2021 7:42 PM, Graeme Molony via Healeys wrote: I have a mate with the same colour MGB ( for give me ) we all call it the omelette Cheers from Down Under Graeme M ( BJ8 ) No name From: Henry G Leach via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 12:10 PM To: 'sentenac.rw at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars This is me with eggyoke, my '74 J-H. (if you want to pun a car-this is the one to use) Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "sentenac.rw--- via Healeys" To: llennep at verizon.net Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday April 2 2021 4:29:40PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Naming our cars 1953 BN1 named Penelope, or Penny for short. Named for the pretty penny she cost me over 23 years to restore. -Roland On Fri, 2 Apr 2021 23:12:10 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: >Reading the post from John O'Brien reminded me of this.John has Lucy and Madelyn. My BJ8 is Baby Car (named by my son when he was a tot). Family cars are Jerry, a Ford F150 and Darth, a Hyundai Santa Fe and Eliza a 36 Chevy.I will not go into names of past cars.Listers what names have you given your cars as John and I have? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 23:59:15 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 22:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That would have my assumption Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sat, Apr 3, 2021, 10:44 PM Curtis Arndt wrote: > Ira, > > Nope, the standard green engine paint was applied to both the intake and > exhaust manifolds, and in the case of the exhaust manifold, it discolored > and burned off rather quickly. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 8:35 AM i erbs via Healeys > wrote: > >> Any manifold paint would need be high temp. I ceramic coated my intake >> silver and exhaust black. No fade >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 AH 100-6 >> 1967 MGB >> Milwaukie, OR >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 00:08:04 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2021 23:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <018701d72918$e0ad59d0$a2080d70$@sbcglobal.net> I recommend Jet-Hot ceramic coatings, however, it cannot be obtained in Austin-Healey green unless you pay for a custom color. I had my exhaust manifold coated eight years ago in silver and to this day it looks wonderful. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2021 10:44 PM To: i erbs Cc: Ahealey help ; S and T Miller Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 manifolds/ air cleaner finsh Ira, Nope, the standard green engine paint was applied to both the intake and exhaust manifolds, and in the case of the exhaust manifold, it discolored and burned off rather quickly. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 2, 2021 at 8:35 AM i erbs via Healeys > wrote: Any manifold paint would need be high temp. I ceramic coated my intake silver and exhaust black. No fade Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 05:50:55 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 21:50:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Naming our cars In-Reply-To: <2C90B8BC-CD9E-44B7-8AFB-61C841CB968E@aol.com> References: <2C90B8BC-CD9E-44B7-8AFB-61C841CB968E@aol.com> Message-ID: <7C5629BC-9CE2-46BD-85B8-882821434FE6@gmail.com> Naming our cars... My 3000 has been known as the ?Black and white car? since long before I knew It. www.myaustinhealey.com I?m now the longest custodian on record for the black and white car. I?m now building an Austin A40 Farina. For my American friends, it?s a Pininfarina designed A series powered 2 door saloon. I prefer to refer to it as an ?Austin Healey Sprite Shooting Brake? Joe Armour coined the name. Given the naming of the Black and White car, and Joe?s own car naming conventions, I?m now calling the Farina A40 the ?Black & Blue car?. It?s just the colour of the car. Give me a break!!!!!!!!!! > On 3 Apr 2021, at 12:30 pm, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > > ?Red Car- 55 100 BN2 > Yellow Car - Modified 100 > Not much behind the names except a gallon or two of paint > P From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Apr 4 06:23:05 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 08:23:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> References: <6F7D03F9-C2F9-4EE7-8F7A-FE8C7B02F151@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <03a001d7294d$44395e70$ccac1b50$@sympatico.ca> Others have answered the question, but I have one of the approximately 1500 cars to which that wonderous thermo/electro/mechanical device was fitted so attached pictures. I would prefer a choke, but the novelty factor is too great to remove it. The ?Otter? switch (the thermo-switch) only activates the ?auxiliary starting device? under a narrow temperature range and is either on of off, so you cannot vary the mixture. To gain more control the PO wisely wired the device to a switch on the dash. It work reasonably well, but because you can?t vary the mixture, it is ?right? for only a few moments as the engine warms up. However, apropos the recent posts on black sooty emissions being directed at unwanted guests, I can activate this and spit a nasty rich mixture containing unburned raw fuel at them when wanted! Cheers, MIrek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold via Healeys Sent: April 3, 2021 3:31 PM To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head Hello, What is the history for the Thermal Switch Hole in the cylinder head. Item 8 in the attached drawing. Some heads have the hole in the casting and it is blanked off and in some heads the hole was never added. Harold Manifold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCF2921.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3036932 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCF2925.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3000663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 06:46:16 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 08:46:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OI. Leaks and a PVC valve engine breather system. Message-ID: <022601d72950$81473910$83d5ab30$@gmail.com> How does it work? The system is simple. The PCV valve regulates how much vacuum can pull through the crankcase. It's hooked into the intake - when the vacuum is high at idle, the PCV valve stops most of that vacuum. As vacuum drops with an increase in RPM, The PCV valve opens, to allow a higher volume of gasses and pressure to be pulled into the intake. As a result, those gasses are recirculated back into the combustion cycle, and burnt off with the fresh fuel and air, preventing those gasses from condensing in the oil, preventing pressure from causing the seals to leak, and preventing pollution from escaping the crankcase. The breather tube allows fresh air to be pulled into the engine, after the air filter, ensuring debris and moisture aren't pulled into the engine. You can read the entire article: https://tinyurl.com/drx8m62w Note the comment preventing pressure from causing the seals to leak. Regarding the Breathing Tube which we do not have on our engines, in my recently installed system I plugged the breather vent in my valve cover with a solid piece of rubber, although as one listener indicated there is a small opening on the valve cover cap. I will check how much is flowing through this tiny hole so the engine breaths and circulates air the crankcase and if it is acting as a breather tube. It maybe that the T on the top of the Valve cover will need to be blocked? Ideas? Comments? Regards, Bob Begani BJ8 late 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Apr 4 10:13:32 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 09:13:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OI. Leaks and a PVC valve engine breather system. In-Reply-To: <022601d72950$81473910$83d5ab30$@gmail.com> References: <022601d72950$81473910$83d5ab30$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7D3FAB81-CCD9-42EE-ADD0-893223B7565D@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: EF3CCBF728CD49A9898D4A66D719FAB5.gif Type: image/gif Size: 10785 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 4 10:25:43 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 09:25:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OI. Leaks and a PVC valve engine breather system. In-Reply-To: <022601d72950$81473910$83d5ab30$@gmail.com> References: <022601d72950$81473910$83d5ab30$@gmail.com> Message-ID: AFAIK, Norman Nock was the first to advocate for a PCV. His solution involved sealing the oil filler cap--I used a small sheet metal screw--and a seal on the dipstick to seal the tube, and venting the valve into the unused port on the intake manifold (Norman was an 'old school' mechanic willing to try new things). It's not a true PCV system in that there is no fresh air source, other than what can be drawn through the rear crankshaft 'seal' or any other leaks. I was concerned about the valve gunking-up or the rear cylinders sooting-up excessively, but neither happened in (probably) 100K or more miles on my BJ8 (photo of head when removed attached). You can feel significant vacuum if you held your hand over the filler hole at idle; and after installation my oil usage was cut roughly in half. When I had the engine overhauled my builder was adamant that he not use the crank seal I'd provided, and designed and built an elegant solution, still using the original valve. My BN2 has what I feel is excessive crankcase pressure, although it has excellent compression (170psi +/- on all four). I would like to install a system similar to what Michael S is building, but haven't committed to the effort yet. I'd like to know which valve is suitable for the engine (the one used on my BJ8 would likely be suitable, but I have no idea what it is). I remember when we first became 'smog conscious,' and hotrodders went ballistic claiming all the 'smog shit' was going to ruin our engines, and the auto companies whined like little bitches. That was true, for a while, but now I have a 5L NA V8 capable of 480HP with 93-octane fuel--which I can't generally get around here--and, oh, it has a PCV system (and cats, etc.). I installed a catch can, and it traps about 1tsp of oil per 1,000 miles that would otherwise end up in the intake or the backside of the intake valves (though it has both DI and PI so, hopefully, the PI keeps things clean). As far as I can tell, the PCV operates 'autonomously,' and I've never seen or heard of a code for it, but the ECU could probably tell if something was amiss with it (but maybe not). Bob On 4/4/2021 5:46 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > *How does it work?* > > The system is simple. The PCV valve regulates how much vacuum can pull > through the crankcase. It?s hooked into the intake - when the vacuum > is high at idle, the PCV valve stops most of that vacuum. As vacuum > drops with an increase in RPM, The PCV valve opens, to allow a higher > volume of gasses and pressure to be pulled into the intake. As a > result, those gasses are recirculated back into the combustion cycle, > and burnt off with the fresh fuel and air, preventing those gasses > from condensing in the oil, preventing pressure from causing the seals > to leak, and preventing pollution from escaping the crankcase. > > The breather tube allows fresh air to be pulled into the engine, after > the air filter, ensuring debris and moisture aren?t pulled into the > engine. > > You can read the entire article: https://tinyurl.com/drx8m62w > > > Note the comment preventing pressure from causing the seals to leak.? > Regarding the Breathing Tube which we do not have on our engines, in > my recently installed system I plugged the breather vent in my valve > cover with a solid piece of rubber, although as one listener indicated > there is a small opening on the valve cover cap.? I will check how > much is flowing through this tiny hole so the engine breaths and > circulates air the crankcase and if it is acting as a breather tube.? > It maybe that the T on the top of the Valve cover will need to be blocked? > > Ideas? Comments? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani BJ8 late 67 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cyl Head.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1107298 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Apr 4 12:57:02 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 18:57:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid In-Reply-To: <53834218.1733709.1617504255306.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> References: <53834218.1733709.1617504255306.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> Message-ID: Or any other car... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of gturl gturl via Healeys Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 2:44 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black watery sooty liquid And its really important to make sure your wife isn't standing behind the exhaust pipe when you start a cold Healey! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Apr 4 16:37:18 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2021 22:37:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs Message-ID: With all the discussion on the thermo start feature, I found this interesting 3 pg. passage in the Austin Service Journal from Sept 9, 1959 to Dec 9, 1959...didn't last long. -----------------------------------------Here also is the correct procedure to eliminate one, if you have finally had enough fun with it. Hank -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Thermo 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 183804 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Thermo 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 260691 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Thermo 3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 251932 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 17:10:43 2021 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 19:10:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <91E9CE95-95F0-485F-AC92-5FF24359E05A@gmail.com> My BT7 originally had the thermo carb and was retrofitted with a manual choke before I got it. When I was restoring it, I asked Joe Curto about converting back to the original setup - he said don?t bother. So I didn?t. > On Apr 4, 2021, at 6:37 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote: > > With all the discussion on the thermo start feature, I found this interesting 3 pg. passage in the Austin Service Journal from Sept 9, 1959 to Dec 9, 1959...didn't last long. > ----------------------------------------- > > Here also is the correct procedure to eliminate one, if you have finally had enough fun with it. Hank > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 4 17:28:05 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 16:28:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] my 65 Sprite for sale Message-ID: https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/portland-1965-austin-healey-sprite/7301838053.html . Sweet little car, wanted to finish it and sell to raise money to work on my wife's 67 B. My health is not great right now, so not enough energy to get it done. Can help arrange shipping Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sun Apr 4 18:00:21 2021 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2021 20:00:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs In-Reply-To: <91E9CE95-95F0-485F-AC92-5FF24359E05A@gmail.com> References: <91E9CE95-95F0-485F-AC92-5FF24359E05A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <639661099.18648035.1617580820995.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> My BT7 had a thermo carb but I put a chole cable and knob on the dash and connected it to an on/off switch under the left fender that feeds 12 volts to the solenoid of the third carb. Works great, the car always starts on the first crank. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Team.net" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: "Ahealey help" Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 6:10:43 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs My BT7 originally had the thermo carb and was retrofitted with a manual choke before I got it. When I was restoring it, I asked Joe Curto about converting back to the original setup - he said don?t bother. So I didn?t. On Apr 4, 2021, at 6:37 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: With all the discussion on the thermo start feature, I found this interesting 3 pg. passage in the Austin Service Journal from Sept 9, 1959 to Dec 9, 1959...didn't last long. ----------------------------------------- Here also is the correct procedure to eliminate one, if you have finally had enough fun with it. Hank _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Apr 4 19:57:47 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2021 01:57:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs In-Reply-To: <639661099.18648035.1617580820995.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <91E9CE95-95F0-485F-AC92-5FF24359E05A@gmail.com> <639661099.18648035.1617580820995.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1912687885.579466.1617587867804@mail.yahoo.com> The BN7 which I previously owned had this set up. ?Similar to what Charlie did I picked up a hot wire, ran it through a switch under the dash and then to the thermocarb. ?Worked quite well for the 18 or so years I had the car.Keith -----Original Message----- From: Charles Schott via Healeys To: Team.net Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Sun, Apr 4, 2021 8:00 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs My BT7 had a thermo carb but I put a chole cable and knob on the dash and connected it to an on/off switch under the left fender that feeds 12 volts to the solenoid of the third carb. Works great, the car always starts on the first crank. Regards, Charlie From: "Team.net" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: "Ahealey help" Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 6:10:43 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermo start carbs My BT7 originally had the thermo carb and was retrofitted with a manual choke before I got it. ?When I was restoring it, I asked Joe Curto about converting ?back to the original setup - he said don?t bother. ?So I didn?t. On Apr 4, 2021, at 6:37 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote: With all the discussion on the thermo start feature, I found this interesting 3 pg. passage in the Austin Service Journal from Sept 9, 1959 to Dec 9, 1959...didn't last long. -----------------------------------------Here also is the correct procedure to eliminate one, if you have finally had enough fun with it. Hank_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon Apr 5 13:33:20 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2021 12:33:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Vane Clearance Message-ID: <5DFFAEFB-BC49-4C8F-94E9-0B551278A932@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cooling System CCC2.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 786436 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Apr 5 18:19:57 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 00:19:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? References: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend.? I have had to buy small sub harnesses to supplement it.? So far, the harness has been correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture.? ?In the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple stripe bullet end wires.? There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one green w/black stripe wire.? I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop light switch.? Anyone have any idea what this harness is for?? There is also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another green with purple stripe!? Does this sound familiar with someone's six cylinder car?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210405_165640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4542261 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Apr 5 23:05:57 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 05:05:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? In-Reply-To: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Certainly not a correct wiring harness for a BN2, irrespective of the wires, the outside covering in black cloth with only yellow was never correct for Austin-Healeys as far as I know. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean via Healeys Sent: April 5, 2021 11:49 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend. I have had to buy small sub harnesses to supplement it. So far, the harness has been correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture. In the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple stripe bullet end wires. There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one green w/black stripe wire. I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop light switch. Anyone have any idea what this harness is for? There is also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another green with purple stripe! Does this sound familiar with someone's six cylinder car? Mike MacLean [cid:16a7d75d-fbfa-4bcd-9851-2a6d4742fe3d] Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210405_165640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4542261 bytes Desc: 20210405_165640.jpg URL: From jtkarowe at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 02:36:28 2021 From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 18:36:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? In-Reply-To: References: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, Would that be the harness for the steering column? On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:45 PM Jean Caron via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Certainly not a correct wiring harness for a BN2, irrespective of the > wires, the outside covering in black cloth with only yellow was never > correct for Austin-Healeys as far as I know. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean via Healeys > *Sent: *April 5, 2021 11:49 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Wiring Harness? > > > > When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend. I have had to > buy small sub harnesses to supplement it. So far, the harness has been > correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture. In > the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple > stripe bullet end wires. There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one > green w/black stripe wire. I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you > see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple > stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop > light switch. Anyone have any idea what this harness is for? There is > also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another > green with purple stripe! Does this sound familiar with someone's six > cylinder car? > > Mike MacLean > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210405_165640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4542261 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Apr 6 02:44:02 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 08:44:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? In-Reply-To: References: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <607478330.265003.1617698643585@mail.yahoo.com> No.? Too many wires for that.? Also all the wrong colors anyway, at least for the BN2.? I do not have wiring diagrams for any other Healey than the BN2 and the Bugeye. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, April 6, 2021, 1:36:49 AM PDT, John and Kerry Rowe wrote: Michael,Would that be the harness for the steering column? On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:45 PM Jean Caron via Healeys wrote: Certainly not a correct wiring harness for a BN2, irrespective of the wires, the outside covering in black cloth with only yellow was never correct for Austin-Healeys as far as I know. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean via Healeys Sent: April 5, 2021 11:49 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? ? When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend.? I have had to buy small sub harnesses to supplement it.? So far, the harness has been correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture.? ?In the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple stripe bullet end wires.? There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one green w/black stripe wire.? I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop light switch.? Anyone have any idea what this harness is for?? There is also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another green with purple stripe!? Does this sound familiar with someone's six cylinder car? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210405_165640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4542261 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 06:07:13 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 08:07:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Vane Clearance In-Reply-To: <5DFFAEFB-BC49-4C8F-94E9-0B551278A932@hxcore.ol> References: <5DFFAEFB-BC49-4C8F-94E9-0B551278A932@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: You're correct Harold. That's much more clearance than normal. As I recall the clearance on the earlier pump like yours is determined by a tubular spacer on the shaft between the impellor and the 1st bearing. They are pretty simple to disassemble (follow the workshop manual). M On Tue., Apr. 6, 2021, 12:19 a.m. Harold Manifold, wrote: > Hello, > > > > At long last I am getting organized to start reassembling of my AH engine > (29D Series) and I was reading a later version of the repair manual than my > original version. In the later manual it specifies the clearance between > the vane and pump body as 0.020? ? 0.030?. The clearance on my original > water pump (the one with nut at the end of the shaft) is 0.100?. What > should the clearance be for the first generation water pump? It doesn?t > seem reasonable there should be such a significant difference. > > > > Harold > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Apr 6 09:37:02 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 08:37:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? In-Reply-To: <607478330.265003.1617698643585@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1023355804.142288.1617668397545.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1023355804.142288.1617668397545@mail.yahoo.com> , <607478330.265003.1617698643585@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <26B4F20C-3052-4EBF-9A8F-8B05F5B7B5CF@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wiring Diagram BT7.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 660006 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Apr 6 10:16:33 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 12:16:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? In-Reply-To: <26B4F20C-3052-4EBF-9A8F-8B05F5B7B5CF@hxcore.ol> References: <26B4F20C-3052-4EBF-9A8F-8B05F5B7B5CF@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <51C10C8A-B8C1-40DD-9DD1-8EEBFBD39BC4@aol.com> On the original and proper replacement wire harness you would normally start Investigating the ?What does this fit? by looking at the color and number of the trace patterns in the black cotton covering. From Michael?s photo I?m it sure if the trace is white or yellow But it appeared to be a double white ( not cross-cross) or pale yellow. That combo did not show up on my info For factory harnesses. Been wrong before but it would seem this is for another make. P Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 2021, at 11:39 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote: > > ? > Here is the wiring diagram for the 100-6 and 3000 through the BT7. > > Harold > > From: Michael MacLean via Healeys > Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 1:57 AM > To: Jean Caron; John and Kerry Rowe > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? > > No. Too many wires for that. Also all the wrong colors anyway, at least for the BN2. I do not have wiring diagrams for any other Healey than the BN2 and the Bugeye. > Mike MacLean > > On Tuesday, April 6, 2021, 1:36:49 AM PDT, John and Kerry Rowe wrote: > > > Michael, > Would that be the harness for the steering column? > > On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:45 PM Jean Caron via Healeys wrote: > Certainly not a correct wiring harness for a BN2, irrespective of the wires, the outside covering in black cloth with only yellow was never correct for Austin-Healeys as far as I know. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > From: Michael MacLean via Healeys > Sent: April 5, 2021 11:49 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? > > > > When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend. I have had to buy small sub harnesses to supplement it. So far, the harness has been correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture. In the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple stripe bullet end wires. There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one green w/black stripe wire. I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop light switch. Anyone have any idea what this harness is for? There is also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another green with purple stripe! Does this sound familiar with someone's six cylinder car? > > Mike MacLean > > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 12:02:02 2021 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 18:02:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar XJ8L for sale Message-ID: Hi fellow Healey lovers I think it is time to look for a new home for my 98 Jag. I am the original owner. The car has never been in an accident and looks really nice, not perfect, but really nice, and drives just as nice. Has several minor problems and one major new problem. The major problem is that she cranks but won't start. This is a very new problem (only happened about a week ago). The minor problems include front passenger window only operates from drivers' side, the ABS system is not operable, and it needs a battery. The car has about 92000 miles and has been very well maintained. The cooling system has all been upgraded and I have all the original papers and records of the maintenance and repairs. (has only required 2 repairs). If you are interested, or know of someone who might be interested, please contact me at DrBerkowitz at Hotmail.com. I will take the best offer. Len Berkowitz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cgmoog at optonline.net Tue Apr 6 12:54:26 2021 From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 14:54:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar XJ8L for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Location? I don't need another car but the person who does would need to know where it is. On 4/6/2021 2:02 PM, Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys wrote: > Hi fellow Healey lovers > > I think it is time to look for a new home for my 98 Jag. I am the > original owner. The car has never been in an accident and looks > really nice, not perfect, but really nice, and drives just as nice. > Has several minor problems and one major new problem. The major > problem is that she cranks but won't start. This is a very new > problem (only happened about a week ago). The minor problems include > front passenger window only operates from drivers' side, the ABS > system is not operable, and it needs a battery. The car has about > 92000 miles and has been very well maintained. The cooling system has > all been upgraded and I have all the original papers and records of > the maintenance and repairs. (has only required 2 repairs). > If you are interested, or know of someone who might be interested, > please contact me at DrBerkowitz at Hotmail.com. I will take the best offer. > > Len Berkowitz > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Apr 6 13:17:03 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2021 19:17:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Harness Message-ID: <438b1584105cf8f3a0027bde9e1066bb69dcdf70@webmail> Check British Wiring Inc [1] 20449 Ithaca Olympia Fields, IL 60461 (708) 481-9050 voice & fax for complete photos of all Healey sheathing: BN1-black onlyBN2- Black with blue traceBN4-BJ8-Black with yellow traceSprite- Black with blue trace BN2 harnesses were always with a blue tracer to show the difference with the BN1 black only, so as not to mix them up. Later cars used yellow. Actually, my early 100 had a brown tracer (which argues with the concours guidelines) Some say it was faded thread...others disagree. I installed all black, but regret it. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Jean Caron via Healeys" To: "Michael MacLean", "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Monday April 5 2021 10:41:41PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? Certainly not a correct wiring harness for a BN2, irrespective of the wires, the outside covering in black cloth with only yellow was never correct for Austin-Healeys as far as I know. Jean Sent from Mail [2] for Windows 10 FROM: Michael MacLean via Healeys SENT: April 5, 2021 11:49 PM TO: Healeys SUBJECT: [Healeys] Wiring Harness? When I was given a BN2 wiring harness from my late friend. I have had to buy small sub harnesses to supplement it. So far, the harness has been correct for the installation, except for the harness in the picture. In the upper right of the picture the multiple leads have 4 green w/purple stripe bullet end wires. There is also 4 red wires, 3 black wires and one green w/black stripe wire. I have been all over the BN2 wiring diagram you see below the harness and I can only come up with one green with purple stripe wire that runs between the flasher relay box and the hydraulic stop light switch. Anyone have any idea what this harness is for? There is also two smaller branches that end with 3 wires, a red, a black and another green with purple stripe! Does this sound familiar with someone's six cylinder car? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [3] Links: ------ [1] http://www.britishwiring.com/ [2] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 [3] https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.onelink.me%2F107872968%3Fpid%3DInProduct%26c%3DGlobal_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers%26af_wl%3Dym%26af_sub1%3DInternal%26af_sub2%3DGlobal_YGrowth%26af_sub3%3DEmailSignature&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0f0847d1b51743791c7808d8f8b677f2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637532813913399481%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=gUj2aDdPnhSdxXKbFO%2FZXhdW%2F%2FrGCaXO4NGGJ%2FezXxI%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 16:48:51 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2021 15:48:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar XJ8L for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: my thoughts too. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 12:15 PM Chris Moog wrote: > Location? I don't need another car but the person who does would need > to know where it is. > > > On 4/6/2021 2:02 PM, Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys wrote: > > Hi fellow Healey lovers > > > > I think it is time to look for a new home for my 98 Jag. I am the > > original owner. The car has never been in an accident and looks > > really nice, not perfect, but really nice, and drives just as nice. > > Has several minor problems and one major new problem. The major > > problem is that she cranks but won't start. This is a very new > > problem (only happened about a week ago). The minor problems include > > front passenger window only operates from drivers' side, the ABS > > system is not operable, and it needs a battery. The car has about > > 92000 miles and has been very well maintained. The cooling system has > > all been upgraded and I have all the original papers and records of > > the maintenance and repairs. (has only required 2 repairs). > > If you are interested, or know of someone who might be interested, > > please contact me at DrBerkowitz at Hotmail.com. I will take the best > offer. > > > > Len Berkowitz > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Apr 6 23:34:46 2021 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2021 22:34:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?black_sooty_liquid?= Message-ID: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> you will really find out how nasty this stuff is when you start your car in the garage with the door down and get to clean all the mess off the garage door panels. makes you very careful from then on. From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 06:56:00 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2021 08:56:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] black sooty liquid In-Reply-To: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <08fb01d72bad$5c3ae860$14b0b920$@gmail.com> Yes, I know that problem and all over the walls of the qarage behind the car when it is in the garage rear end first. Going to have to be more careful or use a bag. Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of healeymanjim via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2021 1:35 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] black sooty liquid you will really find out how nasty this stuff is when you start your car in the garage with the door down and get to clean all the mess off the garage door panels. makes you very careful from then on. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From schottc at knology.net Wed Apr 7 17:09:04 2021 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2021 19:09:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Would someone please send me a wiring diagram of the wiper motor. I have two wires coming out of holes in the cover and two set screws. Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 03:05:22 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2021 10:05:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charles Are you referring to the CRT fitted to a BN1 with no self-parking or the DR2 with self-parking on the BN2 and later cars? Best regards On Thu, 8 Apr 2021 at 00:14, Charles Schott wrote: > Would someone please send me a wiring diagram of the wiper motor. I have > two wires coming out of holes in the cover and two set screws. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 07:24:47 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2021 09:24:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Hi Charlie, attached is a pic of the wiring diagram. If the car has its original wiper motor it has only a power and a ground. The power comes from the fuse box via the fuel gauge and the wiper switch. The motor ground wire is terminates on a self tapping screw into the underside of the motor bracket as in the attached picture ... well it does on the 2 cars I have here. On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 5:17 AM john harper via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Charles > > Are you referring to the CRT fitted to a BN1 with no self-parking or the > DR2 with self-parking on the BN2 and later cars? > > Best regards > > On Thu, 8 Apr 2021 at 00:14, Charles Schott wrote: > >> Would someone please send me a wiring diagram of the wiper motor. I have >> two wires coming out of holes in the cover and two set screws. Thanks. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wiring diagram.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 840100 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wiper motor bracket.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 73374 bytes Desc: not available URL: From schottc at knology.net Thu Apr 8 08:12:46 2021 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2021 10:12:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <259887793.5523269.1617891166856.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Michael, Thanks for the reply. What do I do with the two wires coming out of the holes in the plastic case, near the screw terminals. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 8:24:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram Hi Charlie, attached is a pic of the wiring diagram. If the car has its original wiper motor it has only a power and a ground. The power comes from the fuse box via the fuel gauge and the wiper switch. The motor ground wire is terminates on a self tapping screw into the underside of the motor bracket as in the attached picture ... well it does on the 2 cars I have here. On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 5:17 AM john harper via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: Charles Are you referring to the CRT fitted to a BN1 with no self-parking or the DR2 with self-parking on the BN2 and later cars? Best regards On Thu, 8 Apr 2021 at 00:14, Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote:
Would someone please send me a wiring diagram of the wiper motor. I have two wires coming out of holes in the cover and two set screws. Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
-------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 09:02:09 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2021 16:02:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram In-Reply-To: <259887793.5523269.1617891166856.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <20210407053446.17429.qmail@server278.com> <1229083657.4790197.1617836944230.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <259887793.5523269.1617891166856.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charles As I said recently they have to bent down and fixed under to two terminal together with the two external wires On Thu, 8 Apr 2021 at 15:32, Charles Schott via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Michael, > > Thanks for the reply. What do I do with the two wires coming out of the > holes in the plastic case, near the screw terminals. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Michael Salter" > *To: *"Charles Schott" > *Cc: *"Healeys" > *Sent: *Thursday, April 8, 2021 8:24:47 AM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Wiper Motor Wiring Diagram > > Hi Charlie, attached is a pic of the wiring diagram. > If the car has its original wiper motor it has only a power and a ground. > The power comes from the fuse box via the fuel gauge and the wiper switch. > The motor ground wire is terminates on a self tapping screw into the > underside of the motor bracket as in the attached picture ... well it does > on the 2 cars I have here. > > On Thu, Apr 8, 2021 at 5:17 AM john harper via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Charles >> >> Are you referring to the CRT fitted to a BN1 with no self-parking or the >> DR2 with self-parking on the BN2 and later cars? >> >> Best regards >> >> On Thu, 8 Apr 2021 at 00:14, Charles Schott wrote: >> >>> Would someone please send me a wiring diagram of the wiper motor. I have >>> two wires coming out of holes in the cover and two set screws. Thanks. >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Charlie >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Apr 9 08:49:33 2021 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2021 07:49:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?sheet_metal?= Message-ID: <20210409144933.12916.qmail@server278.com> does anyone know what guage sheet metal used in austin-healeys? From rianhey at btinternet.com Fri Apr 9 09:49:47 2021 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 16:49:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Sheet metal Message-ID: <002601d72d57$f88aa740$e99ff5c0$@btinternet.com> Chassis were originally 16 gauge (1.6mm) Not sure what gauge the inner body panels were. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Apr 9 10:14:20 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 09:14:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] sheet metal In-Reply-To: <20210409144933.12916.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210409144933.12916.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Apr 9 11:28:46 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 17:28:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] sheet metal In-Reply-To: References: <20210409144933.12916.qmail@server278.com>, Message-ID: I believe that most of the panels were 19 gauge if that is what you are looking for. Best thing to do, if you are starting to do metal work on your car is to get yourself a metal gauge, most welding shops sell those. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold via Healeys Sent: April 9, 2021 11:22 AM To: healeymanjim; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] sheet metal The gauge differs in different areas or the car. I have a completely dissembled Healey and can take measurements if can tell me which parts. Harold From: healeymanjim via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 9, 2021 7:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] sheet metal does anyone know what guage sheet metal used in austin-healeys? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 9 12:06:09 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2021 18:06:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] sheet metal Message-ID: There is a bit of interesting history here so the answer is not set in stone. When first designed as the "Hundred" Geoff Healey spece'd the various component's values on the drawings. In the floor area, he called for 18 ga. material. When the cars got into production at Longbridge, Austin's design office decided that they could save a few bucks by reducing the floor metal to .015. As production proceeded they discovered that when the cars settled to the floor, fully loaded, they could not open the doors! Quickly a solution had to be found. The floor material was removed and a "100" pattern was stamped into the panel to give it rigidity. (photo attached of my early 100, with welded in repair panel) ...all this to save a buck! That procedure became a manufacturing standard for these cars. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" To: "healeymanjim", "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Friday April 9 2021 9:22:42AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] sheet metal The gauge differs in different areas or the car. I have a completely dissembled Healey and can take measurements if can tell me which parts. Harold FROM: healeymanjim via Healeys SENT: Friday, April 9, 2021 7:50 AM TO: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: [Healeys] sheet metal does anyone know what guage sheet metal used in austin-healeys? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [1] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [2] http://autox.team.net/archive [3] Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [4] Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net [5] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [3] http://autox.team.net/archive [4] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 in floor.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 573315 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 9 13:09:32 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 15:09:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Message-ID: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 15:45:56 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 14:45:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil cap hole Message-ID: The valve cover cap should have a wire connecting it to the cover. I do not have one. Should I plug it? Oil spits out. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 16:42:33 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 15:42:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil cap hole In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oil might seep out but I don't think oil should spit out. If you remove the valve cover and start the engine does oil spurt out of the rocker assembly? If so you have worn parts that need replacing. -Roland On Fri, Apr 9, 2021, 2:56 PM i erbs via Healeys wrote: > The valve cover cap should have a wire connecting it to the cover. I do > not have one. Should I plug it? Oil spits out. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Apr 9 17:35:05 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2021 19:35:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Opinions on this are all over the place but there appears to be two types of currently used PCV valves, spring by loaded (to keep the plunger on its seat without vacuum and those that do not have a spring and use gravity to seat the plunger. Orientation is important to the non spring loaded type having the vacuum connection end up. Fir Spring loaded type orientation does not matter except the vacuum connection needs to be on the end of the valve that does not have the plunger seat. Just a matter of blowing on each end to see which way the plunger moves. P Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 9, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > ? Listers, > > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the PCV valve. Two questions: > > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys vertical (engine side down). > > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters on each end? > > Thanks. > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Apr 9 23:57:16 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 05:57:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender?? Trying to avoid any damage after paint.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Apr 10 02:39:23 2021 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 18:39:23 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheels Message-ID: <00cb01d72de5$028e7450$07ab5cf0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Are all Big Healey steering wheels created equal? Attached are two photos. One is of a BJ8 steering wheel that appears to be melting (it has a cover on it) and the other is one from a 100 that I was thinking of refurbishing with resin, India ink, shoe polish and elbow grease. Please ignore the black rim, but look closely at the metal prongs, rods or whatever they are called. Clearly the gap in the middle of the BJ8 wheel is greater than the other wheel. Apart from condition, the 100 wheel is the same as fitted to the BN3 which dates from the very early 1950s. Would anyone know? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8946.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155688 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1118.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 199998 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Apr 10 03:41:03 2021 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 11:41:03 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheels In-Reply-To: <00cb01d72de5$028e7450$07ab5cf0$@tpg.com.au> References: <00cb01d72de5$028e7450$07ab5cf0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1618047663273.2627584.12034524e2091043946228b2338fe8407f169ec0@spica.telekom.de> Patrick, The BJ8 wheel is of adjustable type, the BN wheel is a non-adjustable one. They differ in the arrangement of the spokes and also in design. You cannot fit an adjustable wheel to a non-adjustable steering column and vice versa. Cheers, Josef Eckert GERMANY -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Steering Wheels Datum: 2021-04-10T10:44:47+0200 Von: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Hello Are all Big Healey steering wheels created equal? Attached are two photos. One is of a BJ8 steering wheel that appears to be melting (it has a cover on it) and the other is one from a 100 that I was thinking of refurbishing with resin, India ink, shoe polish and elbow grease. Please ignore the black rim, but look closely at the metal prongs, rods or whatever they are called. Clearly the gap in the middle of the BJ8 wheel is greater than the other wheel. Apart from condition, the 100 wheel is the same as fitted to the BN3 which dates from the very early 1950s. Would anyone know? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 05:01:14 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:01:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheels In-Reply-To: <1618047663273.2627584.12034524e2091043946228b2338fe8407f169ec0@spica.telekom.de> References: <00cb01d72de5$028e7450$07ab5cf0$@tpg.com.au> <1618047663273.2627584.12034524e2091043946228b2338fe8407f169ec0@spica.telekom.de> Message-ID: Josef Early BN1s had adjustable steering wheels On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 at 10:42, josef-eckert--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Patrick, > > The BJ8 wheel is of adjustable type, the BN wheel is a non-adjustable one. > They differ in the arrangement of the spokes and also in design. You cannot > fit an adjustable wheel to a non-adjustable steering column and vice versa. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Josef Eckert > > GERMANY > > > > > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: [Healeys] Steering Wheels > > Datum: 2021-04-10T10:44:47+0200 > > Von: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys" > > An: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > > > > > > > Hello > > > > Are all Big Healey steering wheels created equal? > > > > Attached are two photos. One is of a BJ8 steering wheel that appears to be > melting (it has a cover on it) and the other is one from a 100 that I was > thinking of refurbishing with resin, India ink, shoe polish and elbow > grease. > > > > Please ignore the black rim, but look closely at the metal prongs, rods or > whatever they are called. Clearly the gap in the middle of the BJ8 wheel is > greater than the other wheel. > > > > Apart from condition, the 100 wheel is the same as fitted to the BN3 which > dates from the very early 1950s. > > > > Would anyone know? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > > ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 05:10:31 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 07:10:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Iwas not able to R & R them through their own opening. Luckily there were speakers in the kick-panel I could remove and went at it from behind. On Sat, Apr 10, 2021 at 1:58 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the > door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender? Trying > to avoid any damage after paint. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Apr 10 05:47:07 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 07:47:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate. Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt. Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender. This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment. M On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the > door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender? Trying > to avoid any damage after paint. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Apr 10 06:51:34 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:51:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter via Healeys Sent: April 10, 2021 6:48 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate. Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt. Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender. This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment. M On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, > wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender? Trying to avoid any damage after paint. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Apr 10 07:52:16 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 13:52:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <955186479.389802.1618062737002@mail.yahoo.com> I had a similar problem. I was able to gain assess to the inside of the front fender by removing the screws along the lower edge of the fender & along the hinge pillar. I was able to pull the bottom of the fender out just far enough to get my hand and arm thru the gap & up from under the car. The limit is how long your arm is & how wide the gap is. You will probably need a second person to start the door check mounting screws while you hold the check in place. If the door is already in place, be very careful to not open the door too far or it will hit the fender & damage the paint or even worse dent the the fender.Gary Hodson? ? On Sat, Apr 10, 2021 at 1:58 AM Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender?? Trying to avoid any damage after paint.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wwycoffbn7 at aol.com Sat Apr 10 14:43:03 2021 From: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com (wwycoffbn7 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2021 20:43:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head References: <1822998374.311850.1618087383238.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1822998374.311850.1618087383238@mail.yahoo.com> ?Mirek, I am also a caretaker of one of the few cars that came equipped with the auxiliary carburetor instead of a mechanical choke.? The car came to us in 1982 and I fairly quickly got the hang of managing it.?However, it did seem a bit worrisome because the engine would occasionally cough before it was properly warmed up.? When that occurred the back pressure would cause a fine mist of gasoline to blow out of the thermo carb and spray throughout the engine compartment.?During a freshening up in 2009, Tom Kovacs related to me that this situation caused a lot of these thermo carb equipped cars to burn and often be destroyed.? This was apparently one of the reasons this feature did not last long in production.? Interesting in that it seemed to work well on Jaguars.? ?He changed out the system to? mechanical choke.???The cylinder head with the otter switch, intake manifold and other parts are stored in the garage in case a future owner wants to retrofit.? ?Best Regards,?Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 11 07:00:05 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 07:00:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades Message-ID: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only game in town.? As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server had a 100 MHz processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive.? Good old DSL.? I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight.? I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: team_net.png Type: image/png Size: 17671 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Apr 11 08:26:11 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 14:26:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Thanks a lot Mark for all your dedicated work on these sites and Happy Anniversary. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mark J Bradakis via Healeys Sent: April 11, 2021 8:02 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Apr 11 08:27:46 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 10:27:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000b01d72ede$db803970$9280ac50$@sympatico.ca> "Useful service" does not describe it Mark. Your hard work and consistent dedication to this list has kept many cars on the road and helped the Healey community stay in touch for three decades. It is an invaluable service that you provide. Thank you. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis via Healeys Sent: April 11, 2021 9:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. From agrossman at pacific.net Sun Apr 11 09:20:31 2021 From: agrossman at pacific.net (agrossman at pacific.net) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 08:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <000b01d72ede$db803970$9280ac50$@sympatico.ca> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <000b01d72ede$db803970$9280ac50$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <30c654a4043b8c094758412ab0c8488f@pacific.net> On 2021-04-11 07:27, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: > "Useful service" does not describe it Mark. Your hard work and > consistent dedication to this list has kept many cars on the road and > helped the Healey community stay in touch for three decades. It is an > invaluable service that you provide. > > Thank you. > > Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark J > Bradakis via Healeys > Sent: April 11, 2021 9:00 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades > > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos > Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 > lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into > nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals > subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game > in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th > Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were > on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like > me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter > these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by > hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending > 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had > a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a > fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good > old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, > and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those > days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.ne I concur. Only been here about 10 years, but really appreciate your work and dedication! Also many thanks to "the regulars", you folks who are steeped in Healey knowledge and lore; and regularly make this list so informative and congenial. Alan From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 10:11:31 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 12:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark-- The word "gratitude" is not enough to describe what I--and I'm sure so many other--have for the service you have provided. I've been on your "list" for about 23 of those 30 years and can't count the number of times the advice and help I have received from other "listers" has made clear the obscure and/or saved the day. Thank you--Michael Oritt On Sun, Apr 11, 2021 at 10:27 AM Jean Caron via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thanks a lot Mark for all your dedicated work on these sites and Happy > Anniversary. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Mark J Bradakis via Healeys > *Sent: *April 11, 2021 8:02 AM > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades > > > > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet > group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at > the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 > different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its > peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I > recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary > event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me > behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these > days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, > so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 > hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz > processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network > connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I > remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net > was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Apr 11 10:13:45 2021 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 16:13:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades Message-ID: <594f7f0e69a72e9cf7b28ac703c16aca88db8460@webmail> Happy Birthday to Team.Net, and congratulations and thanks to you, Mark, for providing such an important service continuously for so many years.I wasn't in on it at the beginning, but have been a continuous participating member of healeys at autox.team.net since 1996. The list was actually the main inspiration for my taking over the AHCA BJ8 Registry in 1998. I realized that the healeys list was a key tool in making contact with BJ8 owners around the world so that the registry could document the details and history of their cars, which today has grown to include more than 54% of total BJ8 production (9,575 of 17,712 cars built). It's true that activity on the list seems much less now than when I became a member. Many of the earlier members have passed on or have aged out and sold their cars. So many different "lists" like Facebook, ahexp.com, British Car Forum are good in some ways, making it possible for Healey owners to choose their source for Healey information; but I believe they also dilute the overall benefit to the communities. Healeys at autox.team.net is still the only one that I follow daily. Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC USA ----------------------------------------- From: "Mark J Bradakis via Healeys" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Sunday April 11 2021 9:02:06AM Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Apr 11 10:16:54 2021 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 10:16:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> Good morning Mark Effort very well done! Although the flow of posts to the Healey list has decline somewhat it still is enjoyable to receive those that arrive. Big thanks for this service to Healey owners. Ed E.A. Driver Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 11/04/2021 7:00 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos > Usenet group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 > lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into > nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals > subscribed at its peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only game > in town.? As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th > Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were > on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like > me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter > these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by > hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending > 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server had > a 100 MHz processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just having a > fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive.? Good > old DSL.? I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, > and team net was off the air for 11 days straight.? I don't miss those > days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Apr 11 11:15:05 2021 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 10:15:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <9049c64c-5aa5-ef65-6112-6a9951326d9e@comcast.net> The list is going strong because of the "scatterbrained procrastinator" running it.? Thanks to you, Mark, for all you do, "This Bud's for you". Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Sun Apr 11 11:18:38 2021 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 17:18:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <1941868214.820351.1618161518610@mail.yahoo.com> Well Mark you dragged this old Luddite into the digital age. I became adept at using a computer because I wanted to be a part of Healeys @ team.net and I wanted the access to the shared information. Twenty years ago I spent five months in Nova Scotia on a film. Through the list I connected with the LBC community there and suddenly felt at home. I now have friends around the world thanks to our love of cars and the Healey List. Thanks for your hand in this. I still owe you that beer.Ray Juncal On Sunday, April 11, 2021, 9:39:02 AM PDT, E.A. Driver via Healeys wrote: Good morning Mark Effort very well done! Although the flow of posts to the Healey list has decline somewhat it still is enjoyable to receive those that arrive. Big thanks for this service to Healey owners. Ed E.A. Driver Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 11/04/2021 7:00 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only game in town.? As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server had a 100 MHz processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive.? Good old DSL.? I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight.? I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 11 12:03:57 2021 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 14:03:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thank you References: <000001d72efd$0b5da8d0$2218fa70$.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <000001d72efd$0b5da8d0$2218fa70$@verizon.net> Some 30 years ago I fulfilled a life-long dream and bought an Austin Healey. It needed some work being an older restoration. Finding that the numbers did not match I decided to use it as a daily driver. When I did some research I did a Google search and fell upon the Healey List. One of the better things that I have done in my life. The responses that I have over the years to my questions have always been to the point and rapid. My thanks to Mark for his dedication to our passion for giving us this valuable resource. John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 92 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 11 12:06:49 2021 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 18:06:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com>, <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> Message-ID: Mark, Multiple kudos for your efforts all these years. While I have multiple brands in my garage, this is the only site I see everyday and consistently use it and the archives to keep my BN7 on the road Regards, Richard C On Apr 11, 2021, at 11:19, E.A. Driver via Healeys wrote: ? Good morning Mark Effort very well done! Although the flow of posts to the Healey list has decline somewhat it still is enjoyable to receive those that arrive. Big thanks for this service to Healey owners. Ed E.A. Driver Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 11/04/2021 7:00 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 11 12:34:09 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 11:34:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <56eac054-aa97-1c89-1e1b-fbbd5e39b3b3@comcast.net> I have nothing to add to all the good words, so I sent money instead. bd On 4/11/2021 11:06 AM, Richard Collins via Healeys wrote: > Mark, > Multiple kudos for your efforts all these years. While I have multiple > brands in my garage, this is the only site I see everyday and > consistently use it and the archives to keep my BN7 on the road > > > Regards, > Richard C > > >> On Apr 11, 2021, at 11:19, E.A. Driver via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? Good morning Mark >> >> Effort very well done! Although the flow of posts to the Healey list >> has decline somewhat it still is enjoyable to receive those that >> arrive. Big thanks for this service to Healey owners. >> >> Ed >> >> E.A. Driver >> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan >> >> >> On 11/04/2021 7:00 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: >>> On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars >>> mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos >>> Usenet group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 >>> lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into >>> nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals >>> subscribed at its peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only >>> game in town.? As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II >>> Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the >>> 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. >>> >>> And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like >>> me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter >>> these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks >>> automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by >>> hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending >>> 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server >>> had a 100 MHz processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just >>> having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and >>> expensive.? Good old DSL.? I remember that time when my service >>> provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days >>> straight.? I don't miss those days at all. >>> >>> Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can >>> continue to provide a useful service for years to come. >>> >>> mjb. >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Apr 11 14:29:05 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 20:29:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <605064918.849670.1618172945245@mail.yahoo.com> I still like the term "listers" and as an old mentor once said, "Give them an ATTA-BOY " when they do a great job. That one is for you, Mark...All the best to those on the list(s).? P -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Apr 11, 2021 9:00 am Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only game in town.? As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server had a 100 MHz processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive.? Good old DSL.? I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight.? I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 14:41:38 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 13:41:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <56eac054-aa97-1c89-1e1b-fbbd5e39b3b3@comcast.net> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> <56eac054-aa97-1c89-1e1b-fbbd5e39b3b3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001d72f13$12e30170$38a90450$@sbcglobal.net> Me too. Thank you Mark! John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2021 11:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades I have nothing to add to all the good words, so I sent money instead. bd On 4/11/2021 11:06 AM, Richard Collins via Healeys wrote: Mark, Multiple kudos for your efforts all these years. While I have multiple brands in my garage, this is the only site I see everyday and consistently use it and the archives to keep my BN7 on the road Regards, Richard C On Apr 11, 2021, at 11:19, E.A. Driver via Healeys wrote: ? Good morning Mark Effort very well done! Although the flow of posts to the Healey list has decline somewhat it still is enjoyable to receive those that arrive. Big thanks for this service to Healey owners. Ed E.A. Driver Saskatoon, Saskatchewan On 11/04/2021 7:00 a.m., Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drtommitch at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 15:55:56 2021 From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 16:55:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <605064918.849670.1618172945245@mail.yahoo.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <605064918.849670.1618172945245@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Can't say enough about what Marks and what he's done for our hobby. The value and knowledge shared over the years has been exceptional. Thank you sir, thank you. Tom Mitchell On Sun, Apr 11, 2021, 3:29 PM healeyguy--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I still like the term "listers" and as an old mentor once said, "Give them > an ATTA-BOY " when they do a great job. That one is for you, Mark... > All the best to those on the list(s). > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis via Healeys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Apr 11, 2021 9:00 am > Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades > > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet > group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at > the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 > different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its > peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I > recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary > event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me > behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these > days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, > so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 > hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz > processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network > connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I > remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net > was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 16:47:22 2021 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 08:47:22 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Thank you for all you have done, and continue to do, Mark. This list is still my favourite Healey resource. Chris Dimmock Sydney Australia > On 11 Apr 2021, at 11:01 pm, Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: > > ?On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 00:14:49 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 23:14:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Thanks Mark, Don't know how I could have put my car back together after is was down to bare metal, years ago without Rich Chrysler and a host of others to bounce questions off of. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Sun, Apr 11, 2021, 6:02 AM Mark J Bradakis via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being. The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet > group. Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at > the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 > different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its > peak. For a while it was pretty much the only game in town. As I > recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary > event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me > behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these > days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically. Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, > so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 > hours a week maintaining the server. The first server had a 100 MHz > processor. Things have changed. Back then just having a fast network > connection at a residence was rare and expensive. Good old DSL. I > remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net > was off the air for 11 days straight. I don't miss those days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here. I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Apr 12 00:17:42 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 06:17:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> A big thank you to Jean Caron for pointing me to the most timely article in the March/April Austin-Healey magazine on how to replace my door check without removing the fender.? The article was spot on and it worked amazingly easy following Roger Moments instructions.? The clevis that bolts to the door frame is original to the car otherwise it would have been chrome like the door check.? There was one screw and nut that would not come undone and due to the less than desirable access to it I just put another 10-32 screw and nut in the other hole and called it done.? Heck, who is ever going to see it anyway.? The door check holds the door open as it should which should make my work inside the passenger compartment easier if I don't have to hold the door open at the same time I am working in there.? Don't know what I would do without this list and you guys.? Of course a big shout out to mark on the 30th for Team.net.? He deserves as much praise as anyone.Mike MacLean On Saturday, April 10, 2021, 5:51:44 AM PDT, Jean Caron wrote: #yiv2773268538 #yiv2773268538 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2773268538 #yiv2773268538 p.yiv2773268538MsoNormal, #yiv2773268538 li.yiv2773268538MsoNormal, #yiv2773268538 div.yiv2773268538MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2773268538 a:link, #yiv2773268538 span.yiv2773268538MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2773268538 .yiv2773268538MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv2773268538 div.yiv2773268538WordSection1 {}#yiv2773268538 As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael Salter via Healeys Sent: April 10, 2021 6:48 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check ? Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate.? Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt.? Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender.? This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment.? ? M ? On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender?? Trying to avoid any damage after paint. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Door Check1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 212198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Apr 12 03:13:49 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 10:13:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000c01d72f7c$27866bd0$76934370$@alexarevel.plus.com> They are all correct. You?ve maintained a marvellous resource. I can?t tell you how much I?ve learnt from it. (Nor how much I?ve forgotten!) Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 07:27:55 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 13:27:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> , <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, The thank you is to Roger Moment, he is so good at explaining, in minute details some of these repairs with excellent photos to back up his text. I am glad it worked out for you. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: April 12, 2021 1:17 AM To: Jean Caron; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check A big thank you to Jean Caron for pointing me to the most timely article in the March/April Austin-Healey magazine on how to replace my door check without removing the fender. The article was spot on and it worked amazingly easy following Roger Moments instructions. The clevis that bolts to the door frame is original to the car otherwise it would have been chrome like the door check. There was one screw and nut that would not come undone and due to the less than desirable access to it I just put another 10-32 screw and nut in the other hole and called it done. Heck, who is ever going to see it anyway. The door check holds the door open as it should which should make my work inside the passenger compartment easier if I don't have to hold the door open at the same time I am working in there. Don't know what I would do without this list and you guys. Of course a big shout out to mark on the 30th for Team.net. He deserves as much praise as anyone. Mike MacLean On Saturday, April 10, 2021, 5:51:44 AM PDT, Jean Caron wrote: As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter via Healeys Sent: April 10, 2021 6:48 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate. Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt. Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender. This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment. M On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, > wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender? Trying to avoid any damage after paint. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Apr 12 08:39:26 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 14:39:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <31772431.924841.1618238366508@mail.yahoo.com> Would someone please scan the article by Roger Moment & send it to me. I am a member of the AHCA but do not seem to have saved that issue.?Thanks,Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean via Healeys To: Jean Caron ; Healeys Sent: Mon, Apr 12, 2021 1:17 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check A big thank you to Jean Caron for pointing me to the most timely article in the March/April Austin-Healey magazine on how to replace my door check without removing the fender.? The article was spot on and it worked amazingly easy following Roger Moments instructions.? The clevis that bolts to the door frame is original to the car otherwise it would have been chrome like the door check.? There was one screw and nut that would not come undone and due to the less than desirable access to it I just put another 10-32 screw and nut in the other hole and called it done.? Heck, who is ever going to see it anyway.? The door check holds the door open as it should which should make my work inside the passenger compartment easier if I don't have to hold the door open at the same time I am working in there.? Don't know what I would do without this list and you guys.? Of course a big shout out to mark on the 30th for Team.net.? He deserves as much praise as anyone.Mike MacLean On Saturday, April 10, 2021, 5:51:44 AM PDT, Jean Caron wrote: #yiv1698550560 -- filtered {}#yiv1698550560 filtered {}#yiv1698550560 p.yiv1698550560MsoNormal, #yiv1698550560 li.yiv1698550560MsoNormal, #yiv1698550560 div.yiv1698550560MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv1698550560 a:link, #yiv1698550560 span.yiv1698550560MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1698550560 .yiv1698550560MsoChpDefault {}#yiv1698550560 filtered {}#yiv1698550560 div.yiv1698550560WordSection1 {}#yiv1698550560 As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael Salter via Healeys Sent: April 10, 2021 6:48 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check ? Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate.? Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt.? Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender.? This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment.? ? M ? On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender?? Trying to avoid any damage after paint. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 09:00:58 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 15:00:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <31772431.924841.1618238366508@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com>, <31772431.924841.1618238366508@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, It is in the AHCUSA Magazine. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: warthodson at aol.com Sent: April 12, 2021 9:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net; vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check Would someone please scan the article by Roger Moment & send it to me. I am a member of the AHCA but do not seem to have saved that issue. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean via Healeys To: Jean Caron ; Healeys Sent: Mon, Apr 12, 2021 1:17 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check A big thank you to Jean Caron for pointing me to the most timely article in the March/April Austin-Healey magazine on how to replace my door check without removing the fender. The article was spot on and it worked amazingly easy following Roger Moments instructions. The clevis that bolts to the door frame is original to the car otherwise it would have been chrome like the door check. There was one screw and nut that would not come undone and due to the less than desirable access to it I just put another 10-32 screw and nut in the other hole and called it done. Heck, who is ever going to see it anyway. The door check holds the door open as it should which should make my work inside the passenger compartment easier if I don't have to hold the door open at the same time I am working in there. Don't know what I would do without this list and you guys. Of course a big shout out to mark on the 30th for Team.net. He deserves as much praise as anyone. Mike MacLean On Saturday, April 10, 2021, 5:51:44 AM PDT, Jean Caron wrote: As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter via Healeys Sent: April 10, 2021 6:48 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the restraint plate. Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt. Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside the fender. This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts on the restraint bolt. Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment. M On Sat., Apr. 10, 2021, 1:58 a.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, > wrote: I might be whistling in the dark here, but is there a way to install the door check assembly in the "A" pillar without removing the fender? Trying to avoid any damage after paint. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 12 09:03:34 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 08:03:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check In-Reply-To: <31772431.924841.1618238366508@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1902265941.522081.1618034236440.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1902265941.522081.1618034236440@mail.yahoo.com> <1738360909.976106.1618208262112@mail.yahoo.com> <31772431.924841.1618238366508@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9d2fbbff-62d4-71d4-50e0-bac38a01b72e@comcast.net> I think it was an AHCUSA mag issue (RM writes an article for most editions). On 4/12/2021 7:39 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > Would someone please scan the article by Roger Moment & send it to me. > I am a member of the AHCA but do not seem to have saved that issue. > Thanks, > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael MacLean via Healeys > To: Jean Caron ; Healeys > > Sent: Mon, Apr 12, 2021 1:17 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check > > > A big thank you to Jean Caron for pointing me to the most timely > article in the March/April Austin-Healey magazine on how to replace my > door check without removing the fender.? The article was spot on and > it worked amazingly easy following Roger Moments instructions.? The > clevis that bolts to the door frame is original to the car otherwise > it would have been chrome like the door check.? There was one screw > and nut that would not come undone and due to the less than desirable > access to it I just put another 10-32 screw and nut in the other hole > and called it done.? Heck, who is ever going to see it anyway.? The > door check holds the door open as it should which should make my work > inside the passenger compartment easier if I don't have to hold the > door open at the same time I am working in there.? Don't know what I > would do without this list and you guys.? Of course a big shout out to > mark on the 30th for Team.net.? He deserves as much praise as anyone. > Mike MacLean > On Saturday, April 10, 2021, 5:51:44 AM PDT, Jean Caron > wrote: > > > As a matter of fact there is an excellent article by Roger Moment > about this in the March/April 2021 issue of the Austin-Healey Magazine > and this will also be an article in his upcoming book about > Restoration and Maintenace of the Big Healeys. > Jean > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > *From: *Michael Salter via Healeys > *Sent: *April 10, 2021 6:48 AM > *To: *Michael MacLean > *Cc: *Healeys > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] BN2 Door Check > Yes you can do it on the later 100 which have weld nuts on the > restraint plate. > Make a small loop in the end of a straightened wire coat hanger and > attach that to the hole in the end of the arm with an small nut and bolt. > Remove the screws holding the restraint plate in place then use the > wire to guide the assembly forward to where you can reach it inside > the fender. > This doesn't work on the earlier cars which don't have the weld nuts > on the restraint bolt. > Credit where credit is due ... this was recommended by Roger Moment. > M > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulleeks909 at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 09:40:42 2021 From: paulleeks909 at gmail.com (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 16:40:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 134 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for everything, Mark I've been on this list for 22 of those 30 years and it has provided this novice with an invaluable source of info; saving me a lot of time, heartache and money! Here's to the next 30 :-) Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2021 07:00:05 -0600 > From: Mark J Bradakis > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades > Message-ID: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d at bradakis.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > On this day 30 years ago Team.Net came into being.? The British-cars > mailing list was already going strong, an offshoot from rec.autos Usenet > group.? Dale Cook, Jim Muller, then me. Team.net went from 2 lists at > the beginning, autox and british-cars, and exploded into nearly 70 > different lists with something like 15,000 individuals subscribed at its > peak.? For a while it was pretty much the only game in town.? As I > recall, when I attended the SCCA Solo II Nationals 25th Anniversary > event, something like 2/3rds of the 1,000+ entrants were on the autox list. > > And it amazes me that with such a scatterbrained procrastinator like me > behind the curtain it is still on the air. It is a lot quieter these > days, much better software handle many of the janitorial tasks > automatically.? Back in the beginning, I had to do *everything* by hand, > so to speak. Subscribes, unsubscribes, errors, I was spending 10, 15, 20 > hours a week maintaining the server.? The first server had a 100 MHz > processor.? Things have changed.? Back then just having a fast network > connection at a residence was rare and expensive.? Good old DSL.? I > remember that time when my service provider went belly up, and team net > was off the air for 11 days straight.? I don't miss those days at all. > > Anyway, happy birthday to those of you still here.? I hope I can > continue to provide a useful service for years to come. > > mjb. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Mon Apr 12 13:53:12 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2021 15:53:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] [Mgs] 30 years. 3 decades. In-Reply-To: References: <9e6d3355-b928-6b2a-0ee8-e2cfb649e3a4@bradakis.com> Message-ID: This grateful subscriber to two lists?Healeys & MGs?is sending a toast in the form of a donation, so Mark can continue to keep/get us all out of British car trouble! Sarah Carr A-H 100 & MGB/GT Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: mgs4dave Sent: Monday, April 12, 2021 9:39 AM To: Robert's New iPad Cc: MGList List Subject: Re: [Mgs] 30 years. 3 decades. Thank you, Mark. Here?s a toast to you and all your efforts over the years! I have filled looseleafs with info not found in manuals for my MGs! Cheers, Dave Houser? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 01:16:13 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 15:16:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thermal Switch Hole in Cylinder Head In-Reply-To: <1822998374.311850.1618087383238@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1822998374.311850.1618087383238.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1822998374.311850.1618087383238@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The aux carb works well if connected straight to a switch on the dash rather than using the thermoswitch. I have a Jag Mk IX with the aux carb and it does work well, although I would say a standard choke probably uses less fuel, when the aux carb is on it is thirsty, that's for sure. Thankfully on the Jag it has so much pull that as soon as I get going I can turn it off... yes and you are correct the 3.8L doesn't cough back into the HD6 carbs at all.... On Sun, Apr 11, 2021 at 4:45 AM wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Mirek, > > I am also a caretaker of one of the few cars that came equipped with the > auxiliary carburetor instead of a mechanical choke. The car came to us in > 1982 and I fairly quickly got the hang of managing it. > > However, it did seem a bit worrisome because the engine would occasionally > cough before it was properly warmed up. When that occurred the back > pressure would cause a fine mist of gasoline to blow out of the thermo carb > and spray throughout the engine compartment. > > During a freshening up in 2009, Tom Kovacs related to me that this > situation caused a lot of these thermo carb equipped cars to burn and often > be destroyed. This was apparently one of the reasons this feature did not > last long in production. Interesting in that it seemed to work well on > Jaguars. He changed out the system to mechanical choke. > > The cylinder head with the otter switch, intake manifold and other parts > are stored in the garage in case a future owner wants to retrofit. > > Best Regards, > > Bill > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 04:36:06 2021 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 06:36:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 30 years. 3 decades In-Reply-To: <000001d72f13$12e30170$38a90450$@sbcglobal.net> References: <047c45ca-bf53-3d12-94b7-1630d90cbf3d@bradakis.com> <2aa5fd94-5d77-c342-e2f9-9b2bec0ed00f@sasktel.net> <56eac054-aa97-1c89-1e1b-fbbd5e39b3b3@comcast.net>, <000001d72f13$12e30170$38a90450$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <9A115D87-9B9E-4F23-8869-11B7382AC642@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 13 07:14:58 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 14:14:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift Message-ID: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> You may all wearily recall that I asked about lifts some weeks ago. I haven?t thanked you, until now, for your replies as the search is still ongoing. So-called lockdown has slowed everything down as one hasn?t really been allowed to cavort around the country buying lifts. And they all seem to be miles away and cost a fortune to deliver. It seems slightly counter-intuitive to pay, say, ?1000:00 for something and have it delivered for, say, ?250:00??? So, the little MaxJax isn?t licenced over here. And other short two posters are few and far between. Scissors lifts seem to be an option, but they all look rather frail. I?ve located a Nussbaum Sprinter 1300 within easy driving distance. It?s a straightforward mid-rise scissors, but looks better than most. Germany rather than PRC. However, it looks, like most scissors, to be a bad fit. See attachments. Issue is that the chassis rails are too close together to get anywhere near the platforms. Has anyone got something similar and managed to work with it? I presume that lifting the car on the outriggers is a Nono? I believe that the car is 1540mm wide and that one could thus raise it on the sills. (Making way for the side exit exhaust!) Wouldn?t that work? Any ideas? The auction ends late tomorrow so am in a bit of a rush. Nussbaum manual also attached. The widths don?t match with those on the diagram .I gather that one could choose a width out of the factory which, presumably explains the discrepancy. Of course, it?s possible that I could tailor the width still further, but I don?t want the car raised up on too narrow a longitudinal axis. Any ideas? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Nussbaum copy.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4658672 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Chassis 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 200716 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Nussbaum Sprinter.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1185247 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 08:30:28 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 07:30:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <1b0ced36-fb2c-3ad2-8a31-894fae39c0cb@comcast.net> I don't know how high you need to lift, but I got one of these (on sale at Costco--maybe you have an equivalent 'box' store--for $1,000 a while back). https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-5000slx/ Gets the car up high enough to just get under it with a creeper (it has safety locks). My BN2 is up on one now, I'll grab a photo later if you like. And, no, I don't think it's a good idea to lift under the outriggers. Bob On 4/13/2021 6:14 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > You may all wearily recall that I asked about lifts some weeks ago. I > haven?t thanked you, until now, for your replies as the search is > still ongoing. > > So-called lockdown has slowed everything down as one hasn?t really > been allowed to cavort around the country buying lifts. And they all > seem to be miles away and cost a fortune to deliver. It seems slightly > counter-intuitive to pay, say, ?1000:00 for something and have it > delivered for, say, ?250:00??? > > So, the little MaxJax isn?t licenced over here. And other short two > posters are few and far between. > > Scissors lifts seem to be an option, but they all look rather frail. > > I?ve located a Nussbaum Sprinter 1300 within easy driving distance. > It?s a straightforward mid-rise scissors, but looks better than most. > Germany rather than PRC. > > However, it looks, like most scissors, to be a bad fit. See attachments. > > Issue is that the chassis rails are too close together to get anywhere > near the platforms. > > Has anyone got something similar and managed to work with it? > > I presume that lifting the car on the outriggers is a Nono? > > I believe that the car is 1540mm wide and that one could thus raise it > on the sills. (Making way for the side exit exhaust!) Wouldn?t that work? > > Any ideas? The auction ends late tomorrow so am in a bit of a rush. > > Nussbaum manual also attached. The widths don?t match with those on > the diagram?.I gather that one could choose a width out of the factory > which, presumably explains the discrepancy. Of course, it?s possible > that I could tailor the width still further, but I don?t want the car > raised up on too narrow a longitudinal axis. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 08:54:10 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 22:54:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I just purchased an EZ Carlift, which you can order from Holden in the UK. It is really nicely done and super sturdy, and uses a mechanical jacking system. I really like it, the guy who makes the lifts in Santa Barbara also provides all sorts of options and add ons for various purposes, and also has wall mounting kits, etc., it's a great system if you have limited space in your garage. I particularly like the castor option which you can move your car around your garage easily.... it really works. US made and beautifully engineered. https://www.holden.co.uk/p/car_lift_e_z_mobile_for_home_and_professional_use On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 9:36 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > You may all wearily recall that I asked about lifts some weeks ago. I > haven?t thanked you, until now, for your replies as the search is still > ongoing. > > So-called lockdown has slowed everything down as one hasn?t really been > allowed to cavort around the country buying lifts. And they all seem to be > miles away and cost a fortune to deliver. It seems slightly > counter-intuitive to pay, say, ?1000:00 for something and have it delivered > for, say, ?250:00??? > > So, the little MaxJax isn?t licenced over here. And other short two > posters are few and far between. > > Scissors lifts seem to be an option, but they all look rather frail. > > I?ve located a Nussbaum Sprinter 1300 within easy driving distance. It?s a > straightforward mid-rise scissors, but looks better than most. Germany > rather than PRC. > > However, it looks, like most scissors, to be a bad fit. See attachments. > > Issue is that the chassis rails are too close together to get anywhere > near the platforms. > > Has anyone got something similar and managed to work with it? > > I presume that lifting the car on the outriggers is a Nono? > > I believe that the car is 1540mm wide and that one could thus raise it on > the sills. (Making way for the side exit exhaust!) Wouldn?t that work? > > Any ideas? The auction ends late tomorrow so am in a bit of a rush. > > Nussbaum manual also attached. The widths don?t match with those on the > diagram?.I gather that one could choose a width out of the factory which, > presumably explains the discrepancy. Of course, it?s possible that I could > tailor the width still further, but I don?t want the car raised up on too > narrow a longitudinal axis. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulleeks909 at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 10:48:54 2021 From: paulleeks909 at gmail.com (Paul Leeks) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 17:48:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up Message-ID: Hi chaps A couple more questions, if I may ... I now have the gearbox off and the old clutch out. Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it seems fine, can just I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven plate? I may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I use brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch assembly? Many thanks Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 13 12:54:17 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 14:54:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017701d73096$67c9e030$375da090$@sympatico.ca> Hi Paul, I did my clutch a few years ago on my BT7, and I am just re-visiting now as I am re-building the engine. Opinions will no doubt vary, but my suggestions are: 1. I would ck the flywheel for any shallow grooves (I assume there are no deep ones) by running a fingernail across it, and also look for any discolouration that would indicate hot spots where a slipping clutch might have generated a lot of heat. If either are present, I?d suggest re-facing the flywheel, but otherwise I?d leave it alone. If not re-facing the flywheel, I would use a small flat metal block and some fine emery to take any glaze off the flywheel, just make sure you do it evenly all the way around and keep a band-aid handy for when you catch a knuckle on the locating dowels. 2. Some may suggest balancing the flywheel and clutch together, but unless you have had vibration issues, I?d suggest it is not worth it if you are not balancing the rest of the engine. If you have not taken the pressure plate off yet, I suggest marking it and the flywheel with punch marks so if you re-use the pressure plate it can be put back in the same orientation as before. If your engine has been balanced in the past, there should be marks already there. 3. As it is an inexpensive item, I suggest replacing the pilot bush in the end of the flywheel. Soak it in oil overnight before installing the new one, and put a light coating of grease on the inside of it before you re-attach the g?box. 4. Brake cleaner should work fine for clean up of pressure plate and flywheel. 5. My recent experience has been led me to think that the older Borg and Beck (B&B) clutches are better than the new ones. I also think that we discard pressure plates when they still have a lot of life in them. I would look at it carefully and if the friction surface is in good condition and there is no noticeable damage to the rest of the pressure plate, I?d be inclined to re-use it. When I did mine a few years ago I laboriously re-faced the friction surface by hand with a small, fine file. It was a horrible job. I understand there are places that will disassemble the clutch and properly re-surface it. Because the friction surface is ?recessed? inside the cover, this cannot be done without taking it apart. In the intervening years I did acquire an NOS B&B clutch pressure plate which I am now fitting with the engine rebuild, but I am keeping that old one as I think it has much life in it yet. 6. For the record, the problem I had 2 years ago was with the driven plate. B&B changed the way they cage the springs that absorb the rotational loads, resulting it being marginally deeper (thicker?) than the original. So when is was all back together the clutch would dis-engage, but when the pedal was fully depressed the three arms that release the pressure plate fouled on the cages and produced an unlikeable noise (British understatement). I did not get any satisfaction from B&B, despite heroic efforts of the dealer I was working with, so I took a full refund, cleaned up the old driven plate (which had lots of friction material left), and re-installed it with the old pressure plate (with the hand-filed surface), with an NOS throw bearing and it worked fine. 7. Lastly, I would not be tempted by new designs such as the one offered by DW. I have never had a problem with a Healey clutch (the recent re-design by B&B excepted), and the original clutch was made to work with the engine as a package resulting in a smooth running unit. I would not upset that unless you are building a race engine and tackling all aspects of the engine. Good luck with it, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: April 13, 2021 12:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up Hi chaps A couple more questions, if I may ... I now have the gearbox off and the old clutch out. Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it seems fine, can just I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven plate? I may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I use brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch assembly? Many thanks Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 18:43:39 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2021 17:43:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have the flywheel lightened. It will be well worth the expense. On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 9:49 AM Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi chaps > > A couple more questions, if I may ... > > I now have the gearbox off and the old clutch out. > > Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it seems fine, can just > I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven plate? > > I may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I use > brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch assembly? > > Many thanks > > Paul Leeks > 100/6 BN4 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Apr 14 00:28:41 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 06:28:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Door Check has another problem References: <2037799937.1916158.1618381721097.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2037799937.1916158.1618381721097@mail.yahoo.com> I just knew it was too easy installing the door checks in my BN2 with Roger Moment's instructions.? Tonight I installed the passenger side door check.? After connecting the arm to the clevis attached to the door, I swung the door all the way open to see if it held the door open as it should.? No problem.? The problem came when I tried to close the door.? The two spring loaded clips would not slip over the two small bars they popped over when I opened the door.? You can see what I am talking about in the attached photo.? The blue arrow is pointing to the spring loaded clips that work one way, but not the other.? when I try to close the door, it stops and if I apply a little pressure the inner plate in the "A" pillar looks to be bending and there is a small cracking sound that scares me.? I would like to get this one to work as a new assembly from Moss is $85.? After tax and shipping that would be over $100.? I bought these some time back when they were closer to $50.? Nothing with this car is ever easy.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Inkeddoor check_LIa.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1609114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Apr 14 08:42:11 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 15:42:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Wed Apr 14 10:04:29 2021 From: 55healey at comcast.net (Robert Westcott) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 09:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> Speaking of lifts, I would love it if someone would make a diagram of the Healey?s frame ( for the 100 and 3000 ) with proper jacking and lift locations. It would be great to keep a copy in the car in case you ever have to have someone in a shop that doesn?t know Healeys try lift it. I had one incident where an unknowing attendant used the fender seams as his lifting point. Bugger . Rob > On Apr 14, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > Simon From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Apr 14 10:32:37 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 17:32:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001101d7314b$c8da0ac0$5a8e2040$@alexarevel.plus.com> Perhaps they could put them on the attached? Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Robert Westcott Sent: 14 April 2021 17:04 To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift Speaking of lifts, I would love it if someone would make a diagram of the Healey?s frame ( for the 100 and 3000 ) with proper jacking and lift locations. It would be great to keep a copy in the car in case you ever have to have someone in a shop that doesn?t know Healeys try lift it. I had one incident where an unknowing attendant used the fender seams as his lifting point. Bugger . Rob > On Apr 14, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Chassis 2a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 180659 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Apr 14 10:32:49 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 09:32:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com>, <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0305E6ED-FA6D-4BFC-A1AD-5235D1955B34@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Chassis Alignment 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1196598 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Apr 14 11:11:53 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 17:11:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> <9ACE4633-51D5-4426-B268-9F54C0CF63F5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1537726442.1953256.1618420313683@mail.yahoo.com> On many unibody type vehicles the recommended location to lift those vehicles is the lower edge of the front fender / rocker panel for normal jacking while changing a flat tire.?On an Austin Healey the provided jacks were intended to be used under a suspension point. Handbook states for front wheel change, jack under the? outer rim of the spring lower plate .Rear tire change, jack under the lowest spring leaf to the rear axle, with the lipped end on the outside of the spring end up against the spring "U" bolt.?P -----Original Message----- From: Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net> To: Healeys Sent: Wed, Apr 14, 2021 12:04 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift Speaking of lifts,? I would love it if someone would make a diagram of the Healey?s frame ( for the 100 and 3000 ) with proper jacking and lift locations. It would be great to keep a copy in the car in case you ever have to have someone in a shop that doesn?t know Healeys try lift it. I had one incident where an unknowing attendant used the fender seams as his lifting point. Bugger . Rob > On Apr 14, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Wed Apr 14 11:52:59 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 17:52:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lifting a Healey Message-ID: <771a55fa3d9ec0d8f1fe30f7a7980b2bfcb91557@webmail> Guys- another real important point to take into consideration when lifting your Healey and "hanging" the front suspension. Place a 2" block (for 100) between the shock arm and frame plate (I believe it is 1-1/2" for the 3000), BEFORE you attempt to raise the car off the ground in this manner.(photo) This is in the workshop manual and if you ignore that passage, you will crush and destroy the rubber rebound on the shock tower...it's then nearly impossible to replace them without removing the shock. I made these out of a block of 1-1/8" plywood subfloor. I cut one side to 2" high and the other side to 1-1/2". That way I could use it on both cars. Make two, so if you lift the car from the front crossmember, with a floor jack (careful there-use padding), insert them each, first, and then lift the car. If you lift it safely, as Perry suggests, you will not crush the rebound or split open the cross frame seam with a bottle jack. This issue is also a factor on two post lifts with outriggers. Bad idea for Healeys! But I have seen these poor methods done countless times. I recommend a 4 post lift with adjustable ramps.(Bendpak shown) Hank -----------------------------------------From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" To: "55healey at comcast.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday April 14 2021 10:12:56AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift On many unibody type vehicles the recommended location to lift those vehicles is the lower edge of the front fender / rocker panel for normal jacking while changing a flat tire. On an Austin Healey the provided jacks were intended to be used under a suspension point. Handbook states for front wheel change, jack under the outer rim of the spring lower plate . Rear tire change, jack under the lowest spring leaf to the rear axle, with the lipped end on the outside of the spring end up against the spring "U" bolt. P -----Original Message----- From: Robert Westcott To: Healeys Sent: Wed, Apr 14, 2021 12:04 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift Speaking of lifts, I would love it if someone would make a diagram of the Healey?s frame ( for the 100 and 3000 ) with proper jacking and lift locations. It would be great to keep a copy in the car in case you ever have to have someone in a shop that doesn?t know Healeys try lift it. I had one incident where an unknowing attendant used the fender seams as his lifting point. Bugger . Rob > On Apr 14, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com [10] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201130_115638.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 352918 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC01086.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 325073 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 13:08:48 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 12:08:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I used wood blocks when I used a scissor lift Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Wed, Apr 14, 2021, 7:43 AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the > platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the > car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 13:32:53 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 15:32:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lifting a Healey In-Reply-To: <771a55fa3d9ec0d8f1fe30f7a7980b2bfcb91557@webmail> References: <771a55fa3d9ec0d8f1fe30f7a7980b2bfcb91557@webmail> Message-ID: A socket also works well for the spacer but guaranteed it will be the size that you need for the job that you have planned. M On Wed., Apr. 14, 2021, 1:53 p.m. Henry G Leach via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Guys- another real important point to take into consideration when lifting > your Healey and "hanging" the front suspension. Place a 2" block (for 100) > between the shock arm and frame plate (I believe it is 1-1/2" for the > 3000), BEFORE you attempt to raise the car off the ground in this > manner.(photo) > > This is in the workshop manual and if you ignore that passage, you will > crush and destroy the rubber rebound on the shock tower...it's then nearly > impossible to replace them without removing the shock. > > I made these out of a block of 1-1/8" plywood subfloor. I cut one side to > 2" high and the other side to 1-1/2". That way I could use it on both cars. > Make two, so if you lift the car from the front crossmember, with a floor > jack (careful there-use padding), insert them each, first, and then lift > the car. > > If you lift it safely, as Perry suggests, you will not crush the rebound > or split open the cross frame seam with a bottle jack. This issue is also a > factor on two post lifts with outriggers. Bad idea for Healeys! But I have > seen these poor methods done countless times. I recommend a 4 post lift > with adjustable ramps.(Bendpak shown) Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" > To: "55healey at comcast.net" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wednesday April 14 2021 10:12:56AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift > > On many unibody type vehicles the recommended location to lift those > vehicles is the lower edge of the front fender / rocker panel for normal > jacking while changing a flat tire. > On an Austin Healey the provided jacks were intended to be used under a > suspension point. Handbook states for front wheel change, jack under the > outer rim of the spring lower plate . > Rear tire change, jack under the lowest spring leaf to the rear axle, with > the lipped end on the outside of the spring end up against the spring "U" > bolt. > P > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Westcott <55healey at comcast.net> > To: Healeys > Sent: Wed, Apr 14, 2021 12:04 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Platform lift > > Speaking of lifts, I would love it if someone would make a diagram of the > Healey?s frame ( for the 100 and 3000 ) with proper jacking and lift > locations. > > It would be great to keep a copy in the car in case you ever have to have > someone in a shop that doesn?t know Healeys try lift it. > > I had one incident where an unknowing attendant used the fender seams as > his lifting point. Bugger . > > Rob > > > On Apr 14, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the > platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try > the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 14:14:51 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 13:14:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Scissor jack Message-ID: Upper left hand corner image Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: apart.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Apr 14 15:07:57 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2021 21:07:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <948282817.2259428.1618434477931@mail.yahoo.com> I was lucky to find a pair of Quick Jacks that were only used three times.? The owner only wanted $700 for them.? You can see them in the picture below hung on the wall of my garage with the two Quick Jack hangers I bought from Home Depot, which sells Quick Jack and it's accessories.? Keeps them out of the way.? I have used them on a Honda Civic so far, but I expect no problem placing close enough together to lift the longitudinal frame rails of my BN2.? You can see from a picture from early in the restoration the plywood dollies I built and mounted on cheap wheel dollies to move the car around the garage and lift it high enough to get under.? No problem with the car being stable using the wood dollies only lifting the car at four contact points of the frame rails so far.? I don't expect it to be any difference with the Quick Jack lift.? The only advice I can give you if you buy a Quick Jack is to make sure you have the correct air pressure in the small air cylinder on each jack.? If it gets too low, letting the car down will be quite exciting.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, April 14, 2021, 12:09:46 PM PDT, i erbs wrote: I used wood blocks when I used a scissor lift Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Wed, Apr 14, 2021, 7:43 AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20181021_231324.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 140021 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: QuickJack.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 222552 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 19:51:05 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 09:51:05 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Hi Simon - Yes, you can definitely rest the car on the EZ Car lift ramps. In fact the EZ Car lift has sliding rubber bumpers on it, and additionally you can also get magnetic rubber pucks which will rest on that, so it's all rubber on the chassis and will not mark or damage it in any way. The guy who makes the EZ Carlift knows alot about Healeys, so he's set it up for that. If you want his email to ask questions, I'm happy to send it to you. Cheers, Alan On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 10:42 PM wrote: > Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. > > I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the > platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. > > If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the > car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. > > Simon > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 19:52:30 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 09:52:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Platform lift In-Reply-To: References: <000001d73067$01cfcf80$056f6e80$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d7313c$5b9996b0$12ccc410$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Simon - It also can convert to a work bench as well, when it's not under the car.... Cheers, Alan On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 9:51 AM Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hi Simon - > > Yes, you can definitely rest the car on the EZ Car lift ramps. In fact > the EZ Car lift has sliding rubber bumpers on it, and additionally you can > also get magnetic rubber pucks which will rest on that, so it's all rubber > on the chassis and will not mark or damage it in any way. The guy who > makes the EZ Carlift knows alot about Healeys, so he's set it up for that. > If you want his email to ask questions, I'm happy to send it to you. > > Cheers, > > Alan > > On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 10:42 PM > wrote: > >> Thank you for the replies. Some interesting thoughts. >> >> I suppose the most urgent question is: can one rest an AH 3000 on the >> platform of a scissors lift on its sills? Using suitable padding, of course. >> >> If not, I?m a bit stumped. I?d love to drive over (40 minutes) to try the >> car on the ramp but the vendor won?t play ball. >> >> Simon >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu Apr 15 09:55:06 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 15:55:06 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Hagerty Article Message-ID: <62fa4aa2-b281-4d4f-ae45-2cd8e8dbef15@me.com> Saw this in my Hagerty newsletter and thought it might be of interest for the list. ? https://www.hagerty.com/media/people/amid-the-tumult-of-2020-this-bugeye-business-boomed/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Thursday_DailyDriver? Steven Kingsbury BN1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 12:31:46 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 11:31:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle problem Message-ID: Finally fixed the idle problem. Points gap was too tight and carbon element drilled a hole in rotor Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 15 12:55:16 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 18:55:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hagerty Article In-Reply-To: <62fa4aa2-b281-4d4f-ae45-2cd8e8dbef15@me.com> References: <62fa4aa2-b281-4d4f-ae45-2cd8e8dbef15@me.com> Message-ID: <977646911.2661354.1618512916480@mail.yahoo.com> Steven/Listers?As I was reading the Hagerty Bugeye guy story my wife Kimberley asked how many Sprites we have processed over the years.? More then I want to remember was my answer.? Used to pick Sprites and Midgets up for a song (and I'm not a good singer),? repaired them and freshened them up cosmetically.? Kimberley would them drive them (one at a time) to work at an elementary?school.??Parking those little gems on a busy street in front of the school was the usual venue. Always had a sign on the windshield, FOR SALE.? ?She arranged sales for several dozen of the little beasties.??I was so much younger then....unlike Bob Dylan.??Perry -----Original Message----- From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 15, 2021 11:55 am Subject: [Healeys] Hagerty Article Saw this in my Hagerty newsletter and thought it might be of interest for the list.?https://www.hagerty.com/media/people/amid-the-tumult-of-2020-this-bugeye-business-boomed/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Thursday_DailyDriver? Steven KingsburyBN1_______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 20:38:26 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2021 19:38:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle redux Message-ID: So went out after dinner see what was up with my car as the idle issue came back with some engine ping. Got feeler gauge and went to work. Noticed back spring clip was loose. Checked gap to if dizzy was acting up. .012. A bit on the tight side, but not too terrible. Made sure the real clip was tight, took the car out and she ran and idled great. Thanks to those who offered help. Always check simple stuff first Cheers Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulleeks909 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 06:07:38 2021 From: paulleeks909 at gmail.com (Paul Leeks) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 13:07:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch renewal follow-up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks all! I'll renew and refurbish; as advised. Many thanks Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 On Wed, 14 Apr 2021 at 01:43, richard mayor wrote: > Have the flywheel lightened. It will be well worth the expense. > > On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 9:49 AM Paul Leeks wrote: > >> Hi chaps >> >> A couple more questions, if I may ... >> >> I now have the gearbox off and the old clutch out. >> >> Should I replace the whole cover assembly or, as it seems fine, can just >> I clean and reuse with the new clutch driven plate? >> >> I may, as advised, get the flywheel resurfaced. Either way, should I use >> brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and clutch assembly? >> >> Many thanks >> >> Paul Leeks >> 100/6 BN4 >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 16 11:34:43 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 13:34:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit - that is the question: apologies to Hamlet Message-ID: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> Hi all, More on the rebuild of my BT7 engine. A number of years ago I purchased +0.030" AE pistons in anticipation of this rebuild. The AE pistons have 5 rings: 3 compression and one oil control above the wrist pin and one oil control lower on the skirt, below the gudgeon pin. The pistons that came out, which were the originals, had the conventional 3 compression rings and one oil control ring. I am wondering about that second oil control ring below the gudgeon pin and whether I should fit it or not. I am not building a performance engine, just want the highest quality job possible. The original pistons functioned fine and I never had oil consumption issues in the 110,000 miles I put on them. This engine had a bit of piston slap, which was typical of them. I wondered if the extra ring lower on the skirt was to address this. Perhaps it was a complaint from Austin Westminster owners wanting quieter engines? Was the 5th ring for another application? I also wonder whether wiping the oil off the bores by the lower control ring is a good thing or whether it is better to have some cylinder wall lubrication from oil splashing onto the cylinder walls. I have searched for a service sheet on these pistons (thanks Scott!!) but found nothing. I also searched the List Archives, and there are a few older postings that suggest fitting all 5 rings, but no reasons why. I doubt we can really know what is going on in there as the dynamics are complex, but I would be interested in any experience anyone has had with the 5-ring pistons. Theoretical discussion is always welcome! Best, Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Fri Apr 16 12:08:56 2021 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:08:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Message-ID: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch. These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings. (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured) Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration. I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements. They seem very cheap to me. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 16 13:17:08 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 15:17:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit In-Reply-To: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> References: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> Message-ID: <001b01d732f5$185cf300$4916d900$@sympatico.ca> Hi Ian, Thanks for responding. I am not going to another piston manufacturer; the older AE pistons are excellent quality and have a good reputation. You can't judge the quality of castings and machining from an illustration, and half the time what is illustrated is not exactly what is sold anyhow. Omega pistons are also excellent and I have fitted them to classic BSA and Velocette motorcycles when I was doing a complete balance, Carrillo rods, bench flowing the head; the whole nine yards. However, with the Healey, unless you are building a performance engine, I do not see the need for forged pistons. That said, if I did not have the AE pistons, then I would have gone with the Omegas. I would still like to hear about the purpose/wisdom behind the change in piston design that led to the introduction of the 5th ring. They would not have spent the extra money to switch up the machining if there was not a good reason. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Ian Hey via Healeys Sent: April 16, 2021 2:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch. These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings. (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured) Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration. I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements. They seem very cheap to me. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 16 13:37:22 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:37:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit 5 ring pistons Message-ID: <3db00817879fecec5bc9e7028c820292b079f762@webmail> Here is a note found on the web. Kinda explains the reasoning. However, I would talk to your machine shop and see what they recommend as technology has changed in 59-60 years. Today everything is about less drag. I have seen some folks leave off the bottom ring...I'm a purist, so I use original parts as they were manufactured. Hank * The oil control ring at the bottom actually consists of two rings and a spacer. The main trade off is, the 4-ring piston will have less drag on the cylinder walls, but the 5-ring piston will seal better. A better sealing piston will keep more power in the cylinder, but you'll see additional frictional losses. -----------------------------------------From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" To: "Ian Hey" Cc: Sent: Friday April 16 2021 12:18:04PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Hi Ian, Thanks for responding. I am not going to another piston manufacturer; the older AE pistons are excellent quality and have a good reputation. You can?t judge the quality of castings and machining from an illustration, and half the time what is illustrated is not exactly what is sold anyhow. Omega pistons are also excellent and I have fitted them to classic BSA and Velocette motorcycles when I was doing a complete balance, Carrillo rods, bench flowing the head; the whole nine yards. However, with the Healey, unless you are building a performance engine, I do not see the need for forged pistons. That said, if I did not have the AE pistons, then I would have gone with the Omegas. I would still like to hear about the purpose/wisdom behind the change in piston design that led to the introduction of the 5th ring. They would not have spent the extra money to switch up the machining if there was not a good reason. FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Ian Hey via Healeys SENT: April 16, 2021 2:09 PM TO: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch. These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings. (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured) Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration. I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements. They seem very cheap to me. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 13:49:34 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 12:49:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed Message-ID: I made sure the rear cap clip was tight, points gap was .012, will widen to .014 went for a drive in the country and burned about 60 miles of petrol. Car idled fine at road construction and stop sign stops. I hear a bit of a ping, running ethanol free high test. Which direction should I turn the knob on the distributor. I turned it towards the engine when I was trying stuff. Should I just turn it back, or go forward more? Thanks all. Nearly 80 today in north western Oregon. Earliest fire warning season on record. This hoax is really getting real Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 16 14:06:13 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 20:06:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed Message-ID: <0974975324871c9426d43f7de71e3ce3716d1457@webmail> Ira- I would set the point to .016 as with wear, they will tend to close. Setting in book is 14-16 (12 too little). If you are pinging you need to advance the timing. I would set the knurl in the mid position but put a timing light on the marks on the engine pully and move it toward the left 1/8"(advance...away from TDC). You can then drive it and possibly move the knurl knob to get better but it really is an ornament. You will probably have to set the idle back to 900-1000 RPMS as it will want to go to 1200. If that does not work, the weight springs in the distributor may be shot. I would consider sending the unit to Advanced Distributor, Jeff...he will make it perfect. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "i erbs" To: "Ahealey help" Cc: Sent: Friday April 16 2021 12:50:38PM Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed I made sure the rear cap clip was tight, points gap was .012, will widen to .014 went for a drive in the country and burned about 60 miles of petrol. Car idled fine at road construction and stop sign stops. I hear a bit of a ping, running ethanol free high test. Which direction should I turn the knob on the distributor. I turned it towards the engine when I was trying stuff. Should I just turn it back, or go forward more? Thanks all. Nearly 80 today in north western Oregon. Earliest fire warning season on record. This hoax is really getting real Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 14:08:33 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 13:08:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed In-Reply-To: <0974975324871c9426d43f7de71e3ce3716d1457@webmail> References: <0974975324871c9426d43f7de71e3ce3716d1457@webmail> Message-ID: Thanks Rebuilt dizzy Idle is 950 Will reset and check timing Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 1:06 PM wrote: > Ira- I would set the point to .016 as with wear, they will tend to close. > Setting in book is 14-16 (12 too little). If you are pinging you need to > advance the timing. I would set the knurl in the mid position but put a > timing light on the marks on the engine pully and move it toward the left > 1/8"(advance...away from TDC). You can then drive it and possibly move the > knurl knob to get better but it really is an ornament. You will probably > have to set the idle back to 900-1000 RPMS as it will want to go to 1200. > > If that does not work, the weight springs in the distributor may be shot. > I would consider sending the unit to Advanced Distributor, Jeff...he will > make it perfect. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "i erbs" > To: "Ahealey help" > Cc: > Sent: Friday April 16 2021 12:50:38PM > Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed > > I made sure the rear cap clip was tight, points gap was .012, will widen > to .014 went for a drive in the country and burned about 60 miles of > petrol. Car idled fine at road construction and stop sign stops. > I hear a bit of a ping, running ethanol free high test. Which direction > should I turn the knob on the distributor. I turned it towards the engine > when I was trying stuff. Should I just turn it back, or go forward more? > Thanks all. > Nearly 80 today in north western Oregon. Earliest fire warning season on > record. > This hoax is really getting real > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Fri Apr 16 14:11:38 2021 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 13:11:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit - that is the question: apologies to Hamlet In-Reply-To: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> References: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Mirek, I had this same issue 20 years ago when I rebuilt my engine and I made the decision to omit the lower ring. I felt the 5th ring would just be additional drag and didn't really serve any purpose. I've had no issues. I'm not sure if it made a difference. Mark Fawcett 1959 BT7 On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 10:37 AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi all, > > > > More on the rebuild of my BT7 engine. A number of years ago I purchased > +0.030? AE pistons in anticipation of this rebuild. The AE pistons have > 5 rings: 3 compression and one oil control above the wrist pin and one oil > control lower on the skirt, below the gudgeon pin. The pistons that came > out, which were the originals, had the conventional 3 compression rings and > one oil control ring. > > > > I am wondering about that second oil control ring below the gudgeon pin > and whether I should fit it or not. I am not building a performance > engine, just want the highest quality job possible. The original pistons > functioned fine and I never had oil consumption issues in the 110,000 miles > I put on them. This engine had a bit of piston slap, which was typical of > them. I wondered if the extra ring lower on the skirt was to address > this. Perhaps it was a complaint from Austin Westminster owners wanting > quieter engines? Was the 5th ring for another application? I also > wonder whether wiping the oil off the bores by the lower control ring is a > good thing or whether it is better to have some cylinder wall lubrication > from oil splashing onto the cylinder walls. > > > > I have searched for a service sheet on these pistons (thanks Scott!!) but > found nothing. I also searched the List Archives, and there are a few > older postings that suggest fitting all 5 rings, but no reasons why. > > > > I doubt we can really know what is going on in there as the dynamics are > complex, but I would be interested in any experience anyone has had with > the 5-ring pistons. Theoretical discussion is always welcome! > > > > Best, Mirek > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Apr 16 16:11:37 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 22:11:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed In-Reply-To: References: <0974975324871c9426d43f7de71e3ce3716d1457@webmail> Message-ID: <968083610.3187706.1618611097973@mail.yahoo.com> In my years of setting points on British cars all I ever used was a matchbook cover to set the points.? Absolutely close enough to work just fine.? That might horrify you guys with OCD, but I try not to overthink things with these British cars.? Of course this means you have to find a matchbook.? I don't see them around anymore like I used to.Mike MacLean On Friday, April 16, 2021, 1:09:15 PM PDT, i erbs via Healeys wrote: Thanks?Rebuilt dizzyIdle is 950?Will reset and check timing Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 1:06 PM wrote: Ira- I would set the point to .016 as with wear, they will tend to close.? Setting in book is 14-16 (12 too little). If you are pinging you need to advance the timing.? I would set the knurl in the mid position but put a timing light on the marks on the engine pully and move it toward the left 1/8"(advance...away from TDC). You can then drive it and possibly move the knurl knob to get better but it really is an ornament. You will probably have to set the idle back to 900-1000 RPMS as it will want to go to 1200. If that does not work, the weight springs in the distributor may be shot. I would consider sending the unit to Advanced Distributor, Jeff...he will make it perfect. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "i erbs" To: "Ahealey help" Cc: Sent: Friday April 16 2021 12:50:38PM Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed I made sure the rear cap clip was tight, points gapwas .012, will widen to .014? went for a drive in the countryand burned about 60 miles of petrol. Car idled fine at roadconstruction and stop sign stops.I hear a bit of a ping, running ethanol free hightest. Which direction should I turn the knob on the distributor. Iturned it towards the engine when I was trying stuff. Should I justturn it back, or go forward more?Thanks all.Nearly 80 today in north western Oregon. Earliestfire warning season on record.This hoax is really getting real Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 16:30:35 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 15:30:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed In-Reply-To: <968083610.3187706.1618611097973@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0974975324871c9426d43f7de71e3ce3716d1457@webmail> <968083610.3187706.1618611097973@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So have I. Hard to find one ;) Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 3:11 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > In my years of setting points on British cars all I ever used was a > matchbook cover to set the points. Absolutely close enough to work just > fine. That might horrify you guys with OCD, but I try not to overthink > things with these British cars. Of course this means you have to find a > matchbook. I don't see them around anymore like I used to. > Mike MacLean > > On Friday, April 16, 2021, 1:09:15 PM PDT, i erbs via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Thanks > Rebuilt dizzy > Idle is 950 > Will reset and check timing > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 1:06 PM wrote: > > Ira- I would set the point to .016 as with wear, they will tend to close. > Setting in book is 14-16 (12 too little). If you are pinging you need to > advance the timing. I would set the knurl in the mid position but put a > timing light on the marks on the engine pully and move it toward the left > 1/8"(advance...away from TDC). You can then drive it and possibly move the > knurl knob to get better but it really is an ornament. You will probably > have to set the idle back to 900-1000 RPMS as it will want to go to 1200. > > If that does not work, the weight springs in the distributor may be shot. > I would consider sending the unit to Advanced Distributor, Jeff...he will > make it perfect. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "i erbs" > To: "Ahealey help" > Cc: > Sent: Friday April 16 2021 12:50:38PM > Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed > > I made sure the rear cap clip was tight, points gap was .012, will widen > to .014 went for a drive in the country and burned about 60 miles of > petrol. Car idled fine at road construction and stop sign stops. > I hear a bit of a ping, running ethanol free high test. Which direction > should I turn the knob on the distributor. I turned it towards the engine > when I was trying stuff. Should I just turn it back, or go forward more? > Thanks all. > Nearly 80 today in north western Oregon. Earliest fire warning season on > record. > This hoax is really getting real > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 16:31:00 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 15:31:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed In-Reply-To: <832136397.202621.1618610005780@mail.ziggo.nl> References: <832136397.202621.1618610005780@mail.ziggo.nl> Message-ID: Which direction do I turn the knob Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 2:53 PM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > If there in detonation retard the ignition, not advance!! > Kees Oudesluijs > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 16 17:34:50 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 23:34:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed Message-ID: <666af4832fb5ca557d63fb1e9e031a9e69b26916@webmail> Ira-to answer your question: the knurled knob has an A and R (with arrows) on the casing. The A advances to the left (counterclockwise) Clockwise to retard. It says that 11 clicks = 1 degree and there are 55 clicks of adjustment (about 5 degrees total) Hank -----------------------------------------From: "i erbs" To: "Kees Oudesluijs" Cc: "i erbs via Healeys" Sent: Friday April 16 2021 3:31:11PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Idle fixed Which direction do I turn the knob Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 2:53 PM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: If there in detonation retard the ignition, not advance!! Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 17:38:46 2021 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 09:38:46 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Message-ID: Hi Mirek, and Listers, Just to put your mind at ease, I had to replace the pistons in my '67 BJ8 after a piston failure in the N0.1 cylinder. Because of transverse cracks appearing in other pistons, After suitable preparation, I decided to replace the lot with +0.030" *Nural *pistons (Part No.PAU291211030N) which had the 3 compression rings and oil control ring above the wrist pin and one oil control lower on the skirt, below the gudgeon pin.I was told that the lower control ring was there to contain the oil for extra lubrication and cooling of the gudgeon. Mirek, I don't know how true that is but I have done over 10,000 miles since fitting, the engine runs smoothly....compression is great, I am a happy chappy!! Kind regards from Down Under Darryl '67 BJ8L41258 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 17:47:11 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 16:47:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Idle fixed In-Reply-To: <666af4832fb5ca557d63fb1e9e031a9e69b26916@webmail> References: <666af4832fb5ca557d63fb1e9e031a9e69b26916@webmail> Message-ID: Thanks i can't read the nob markings. That's what I was asking about. So I advanced, which explains the ping. Cheerd Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 4:34 PM wrote: > Ira-to answer your question: the knurled knob has an A and R (with arrows) > on the casing. The A advances to the left (counterclockwise) Clockwise to > retard. It says that 11 clicks = 1 degree and there are 55 clicks of > adjustment (about 5 degrees total) Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "i erbs" > To: "Kees Oudesluijs" > Cc: "i erbs via Healeys" > Sent: Friday April 16 2021 3:31:11PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Idle fixed > > Which direction do I turn the knob > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2021, 2:53 PM Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > >> If there in detonation retard the ignition, not advance!! >> Kees Oudesluijs >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Fri Apr 16 19:47:24 2021 From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 18:47:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit - that is the question: apologies to Hamlet In-Reply-To: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> References: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000001d7332b$a3581cb0$ea085610$@shaw.ca> Mirek: My experience: When my BJ8 engine was rebuilt the first time in 1985 (at approx. 140k miles, 40k or so by me), 5 ring pistons were used (.030 over). I vaguely remember being told at the time that the factory used these pistons in their truck and marine engines - something about reduced piston slap for less wear, and maybe a bit more friction, but nothing really important in a stock big Healey engine for the street. In any case, that was what was available at the time, so that's what went in. Fast forward another approx. 140k miles to the recent second total rebuild, this time all miles driven by me, and with really good hobby car maintenance by me - a bit of overkill if anything. The engine was in really good shape when taken apart - didn't really need to be done quite yet, but we were doing a total ground up resto on the car, so now was the time. ( I just might be the only big Healey owner that has run an entire rebuild cycle with 5 - ring pistons and then had the engine apart again and had a look). New 5 - ring pistons were chosen - again all we could get in .040 over - and again, the engine was done to stock specs - ignition, cam, carbs etc. all as original. After some 'sorting', the engine has now approx. 15k miles on the new rebuild, and is running beautifully - excellent power for a stock spec engine. Approaching 300k miles. Amazing! As an aside, at the first rebuild in 1985, 12 hardened valve seat inserts were installed in the head - 2 adjacent ports had cracks, and at the time the world was faced with the unleaded fuel changeover. At this recent rebuild, the head barely needed work, a valve grind and not much else after being run exclusively on unleaded fuel for that entire rebuild cycle. ( didn't even have hardened exhaust valves - couldn't find any at the time). Sintered bronze guides too - we didn't know any better! They must have been fitted right, they were left as is at the 2nd rebuild. Normal o-ring valve stem seals were used again - no unusual oil consumption at this time. Based on my experience, unless you are modifying the engine for more power and therefore might not want the slight extra friction, I would install the rings. There is no question that the piston skirt is better supported with the extra ring below the pin, and the groove is already there - also, there is the possibility that there could be a down side in the long term from running with the groove empty. I doubt that anyone has enough mileage on such a rebuild to say for certain that it will be trouble free. Hope my experience helps with your decision. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 16, 2021 10:35 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit - that is the question: apologies to Hamlet Hi all, More on the rebuild of my BT7 engine. A number of years ago I purchased +0.030" AE pistons in anticipation of this rebuild. The AE pistons have 5 rings: 3 compression and one oil control above the wrist pin and one oil control lower on the skirt, below the gudgeon pin. The pistons that came out, which were the originals, had the conventional 3 compression rings and one oil control ring. I am wondering about that second oil control ring below the gudgeon pin and whether I should fit it or not. I am not building a performance engine, just want the highest quality job possible. The original pistons functioned fine and I never had oil consumption issues in the 110,000 miles I put on them. This engine had a bit of piston slap, which was typical of them. I wondered if the extra ring lower on the skirt was to address this. Perhaps it was a complaint from Austin Westminster owners wanting quieter engines? Was the 5th ring for another application? I also wonder whether wiping the oil off the bores by the lower control ring is a good thing or whether it is better to have some cylinder wall lubrication from oil splashing onto the cylinder walls. I have searched for a service sheet on these pistons (thanks Scott!!) but found nothing. I also searched the List Archives, and there are a few older postings that suggest fitting all 5 rings, but no reasons why. I doubt we can really know what is going on in there as the dynamics are complex, but I would be interested in any experience anyone has had with the 5-ring pistons. Theoretical discussion is always welcome! Best, Mirek -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 14:29:39 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 13:29:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Foot box insulation Message-ID: Can someone direct to an image of the engine bay footwell insulation pieces location? Either an online link or a photo. Poor connection and my searches are not materializing. 59 bn4 Thanks Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Apr 17 14:56:40 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 13:56:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Thermostat Message-ID: <38908533-6699-4731-B143-B39D3A9DFB03@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Apr 17 16:30:22 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 22:30:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Thermostat In-Reply-To: <38908533-6699-4731-B143-B39D3A9DFB03@hxcore.ol> References: <38908533-6699-4731-B143-B39D3A9DFB03@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <1336900334.3447884.1618698622330@mail.yahoo.com> HaroldMy workshop manual shows the following:"A non-bellows wax element type thermostat, interchangeable with the bellows type used previously, was fitted from Engine No. 29F/2592 to improve the effectiveness of the car heating equipment."Not sure it that really answers your question.P -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold via Healeys To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2021 4:56 pm Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Thermostat I trying put together a time line for various types of thermostats used in the 6 cylinder Healey?s. The end goal is to see when the sleeve to cover the bypass opening was dropped and when the alcohol type bellows was replaced with a wax type thermostat. ?I found this entry in the service parts manual but can?t find any reference to what? a 11K399?was. ? | Jul-59 | 11K399? Com. (E) 29D-H3079 wax capsule thermostat 68?C. | ?What was an 11K399? Was it a wax type thermostat with a sleeve to cover the bypass? ? ?Harold ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From watterbury at yahoo.com Sat Apr 17 17:36:19 2021 From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 23:36:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 142 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1590869023.3456730.1618702579901@mail.yahoo.com> Hey Ian,The rumor I heard was that the 5th ring was for hone-and-replace rebuilds to reduce oil consumption.? I'll let others comment if these cars were fitted with 4 or 5 rings from the factory (I'm guessing 4).? I rebuilt mine with 4, like the others.? Not a problem for our coddled Healeys.? Heck, I even know of one fellow who only put in three for a hot motor. Bill AtterburyBT7 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:08:56 +0100 From: "Ian Hey" To: Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Message-ID: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch.? These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings.? (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration.? I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements.? They seem very cheap to me. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Apr 17 17:52:46 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2021 23:52:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit - that is the question: apologies to Hamlet In-Reply-To: <000001d7332b$a3581cb0$ea085610$@shaw.ca> References: <000a01d732e6$c9d47590$5d7d60b0$@sympatico.ca> <000001d7332b$a3581cb0$ea085610$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <485515387.3439649.1618703566201@mail.yahoo.com> Just looked through the factory parts books and it would seem from what was shown in the illustrations that all 6 cylinder engines had 4 rings per cylinder.?P#yiv9561545640 #yiv9561545640 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9561545640 #yiv9561545640 p.yiv9561545640MsoNormal, #yiv9561545640 li.yiv9561545640MsoNormal, #yiv9561545640 div.yiv9561545640MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9561545640 span.yiv9561545640EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9561545640 .yiv9561545640MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv9561545640 div.yiv9561545640WordSection1 {}#yiv9561545640 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Apr 18 16:54:56 2021 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2021 22:54:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 142 In-Reply-To: <1590869023.3456730.1618702579901@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1590869023.3456730.1618702579901@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1959093511.3621729.1618786496615@mail.yahoo.com> I don't know about the six cylinder engines, but during the rebuild of my BN2 engine I used 3 ring pistons from Moss.? Not exactly the most exclusive examples of piston technology, but the very experienced engine builder that built my shot block for me said they will do just fine.? Heck I don't even remember seeing an oil scraper ring on them.? Not an expert, but could the way the bottom ring was ground to shape have an oil scraping purpose?Mike MacLean?Out of my five vehicles, only one has a catalytic converter.? Take that Greta Thunberg. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 4:37 PM, William Atterbury via Healeys wrote: Hey Ian,The rumor I heard was that the 5th ring was for hone-and-replace rebuilds to reduce oil consumption.? I'll let others comment if these cars were fitted with 4 or 5 rings from the factory (I'm guessing 4).? I rebuilt mine with 4, like the others.? Not a problem for our coddled Healeys.? Heck, I even know of one fellow who only put in three for a hot motor. Bill AtterburyBT7 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:08:56 +0100 From: "Ian Hey" To: Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Message-ID: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch.? These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings.? (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration.? I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements.? They seem very cheap to me. Ian _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Apr 18 17:52:46 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2021 23:52:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 142 In-Reply-To: <1959093511.3621729.1618786496615@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1590869023.3456730.1618702579901@mail.yahoo.com> <1959093511.3621729.1618786496615@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <596861033.3661407.1618789966990@mail.yahoo.com> The factory parts list AKD 870 for the 100 shows both compression and scraper rings. Four rings, all above the wrist pin.?P -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean via Healeys To: William Atterbury ; Healeys Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2021 6:54 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 142 I don't know about the six cylinder engines, but during the rebuild of my BN2 engine I used 3 ring pistons from Moss.? Not exactly the most exclusive examples of piston technology, but the very experienced engine builder that built my shot block for me said they will do just fine.? Heck I don't even remember seeing an oil scraper ring on them.? Not an expert, but could the way the bottom ring was ground to shape have an oil scraping purpose?Mike MacLean?Out of my five vehicles, only one has a catalytic converter.? Take that Greta Thunberg. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 4:37 PM, William Atterbury via Healeys wrote: Hey Ian,The rumor I heard was that the 5th ring was for hone-and-replace rebuilds to reduce oil consumption.? I'll let others comment if these cars were fitted with 4 or 5 rings from the factory (I'm guessing 4).? I rebuilt mine with 4, like the others.? Not a problem for our coddled Healeys.? Heck, I even know of one fellow who only put in three for a hot motor. Bill AtterburyBT7 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:08:56 +0100 From: "Ian Hey" To: Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit Message-ID: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was fitted with four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were pictured with five rings, which did not seem good to me. I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch.? These have three rings with a total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings.? (For the oil rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the lower pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder wall) this represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). Another, much more expensive, option for consideration.? I also have no doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure about the four or five ringed replacements.? They seem very cheap to me. Ian _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 18:44:27 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2021 17:44:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question Message-ID: I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. Thanks, Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Apr 19 06:14:19 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 08:14:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop Message-ID: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> Many thanks to everyone who responded to my question about the rings. Seems that there are examples of people fitting that fifth ring and leaving it off, and no-one reported a problem or bad experience either way. It also seems there is no hard knowledge on why that bottom ring was fitted, but several of us, me included, think it may have been aesthetic: simply to reduce the noise from piston slap. I thought Earl's response was most telling in that he had been through a complete engine cycle (i.e. he is on his second rebuild after 140,000 miles on the first) with a 5-ring piston and there were no issues noted on the strip-down and good performance. While I have no doubt that extra ring may result in extra friction and rob the engine of a horsepower or two, no-one has measured it, so we do not know if that is significant in any way. The only other potential down-side is that the bottom ring will scrape the oil from the cylinder wall on the down-stroke, reducing lubrication on any piston-cylinder wall contact between the two oil control rings. However, the bottom ring may also prevent the piston from making contact with wall, or at least reduce the friction, so maybe that is not an issue. My goal is a well-built, reliable, original car with factory-level performance. Given that, and some concerns about the unknown consequences of an empty ring groove, I am electing to install the 5th ring. Also, I think there is wisdom in Hank's comment that as a general rule parts should be installed as the manufacturer intended - who are we to second guess the engineers who thought it necessary to add that ring? Interesting discussion, and if anyone ever turns up hard engineering evidence as to why that extra ring was added, I would be very happy if they would share it. As always, this list is amazing for providing a forum for providing a forum for discussion on the things we find interesting - as arcane they may be! With thanks, Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Mon Apr 19 07:07:25 2021 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 09:07:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop In-Reply-To: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> References: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <1727157278.99242.1618837645251.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Mirek, You might be too far along for this, but if you're doing a 100-4 engine I have a new single lip seal conversion kit for the rear of the engine. It requires machining of the crankshaft and the engine block. Also, you can buy a timing chain cover that has been modified to take a single lip seal. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:14:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop Many thanks to everyone who responded to my question about the rings. Seems that there are examples of people fitting that fifth ring and leaving it off, and no-one reported a problem or bad experience either way. It also seems there is no hard knowledge on why that bottom ring was fitted, but several of us, me included, think it may have been aesthetic: simply to reduce the noise from piston slap. I thought Earl?s response was most telling in that he had been through a complete engine cycle (i.e. he is on his second rebuild after 140,000 miles on the first) with a 5-ring piston and there were no issues noted on the strip-down and good performance. While I have no doubt that extra ring may result in extra friction and rob the engine of a horsepower or two, no-one has measured it, so we do not know if that is significant in any way. The only other potential down-side is that the bottom ring will scrape the oil from the cylinder wall on the down-stroke, reducing lubrication on any piston-cylinder wall contact between the two oil control rings. However, the bottom ring may also prevent the piston from making contact with wall, or at least reduce the friction, so maybe that is not an issue. My goal is a well-built, reliable, original car with factory-level performance. Given that, and some concerns about the unknown consequences of an empty ring groove, I am electing to install the 5 th ring. Also, I think there is wisdom in Hank?s comment that as a general rule parts should be installed as the manufacturer intended ? who are we to second guess the engineers who thought it necessary to add that ring? Interesting discussion, and if anyone ever turns up hard engineering evidence as to why that extra ring was added, I would be very happy if they would share it. As always, this list is amazing for providing a forum for providing a forum for discussion on the things we find interesting ? as arcane they may be! With thanks, Mirek _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Apr 19 07:18:21 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 07:18:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 142 In-Reply-To: <1959093511.3621729.1618786496615@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1590869023.3456730.1618702579901@mail.yahoo.com> <1959093511.3621729.1618786496615@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3eaf70c6-e0d0-48f7-6c9f-0102e560ad7f@porterscustom.com> Current engine thinking is to move the wrist pin closer to the top of the piston and to reduce the length of the piston (shorter skirts) and zero quench (piston rises above the deck level). The 5th oil control ring served the purpose of (oil control) and also to minimize piston slap on the cylinder wall as the piston reversed direction leading to cylinder wall ovalization and subsequent loss of compression. Dave On 4/18/2021 4:54 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote: > I don't know about the six cylinder engines, but during the rebuild of > my BN2 engine I used 3 ring pistons from Moss.? Not exactly the most > exclusive examples of piston technology, but the very experienced > engine builder that built my shot block for me said they will do just > fine.? Heck I don't even remember seeing an oil scraper ring on them.? > Not an expert, but could the way the bottom ring was ground to shape > have an oil scraping purpose? > Mike MacLean > Out of my five vehicles, only one has a catalytic converter.? Take > that Greta Thunberg. > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Sat, Apr 17, 2021 at 4:37 PM, William Atterbury via Healeys > wrote: > Hey Ian, > The rumor I heard was that the 5th ring was for hone-and-replace > rebuilds to reduce oil consumption.? I'll let others comment if > these cars were fitted with 4 or 5 rings from the factory (I'm > guessing 4).? I rebuilt mine with 4, like the others.? Not a > problem for our coddled Healeys.? Heck, I even know of one fellow > who only put in three for a hot motor. > > Bill Atterbury > BT7 > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2021 19:08:56 +0100 > From: "Ian Hey" > > To: > > Subject: [Healeys] To fit or not to fit > Message-ID: <002201d732eb$915662a0$b40327e0$@btinternet.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > In a recent engine rebuild of a standard BJ7 engine which was > fitted with > four ring pistons, when I looked at replacement pistons they were > pictured > with five rings, which did not seem good to me. > > I fitted Omega pistons from Denis Welch.? These have three rings > with a > total width of 3.2mm compared with 9.8mm for the four rings. (For > the oil > rings only the width contacting the cylinder bore is measured > > Since friction is in proportion to ring width (possibly due to the > lower > pressure required to make thinner rings seat against the cylinder > wall) this > represents a reduction in losses to heat and a power increase (small). > > Another, much more expensive, option for consideration.? I also > have no > doubts about the quality of the pistons, whereas I am not sure > about the > four or five ringed replacements.? They seem very cheap to me. > > Ian > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 08:21:44 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 07:21:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop In-Reply-To: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> References: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <3e87e260-10df-6a93-9a45-f19c6937843a@comcast.net> I'm curious as to why both 4- and 5-ring pistons are offered (by Moss). Does it vary by year or model, or just builder preference? As far as I can tell, cars came from the factory with 4 ring pistons. FWIW, I have a DWM 3-ring Omega set in my BJ8, and I haven't noticed any piston slap. Bob On 4/19/2021 5:14 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: > > Many thanks to everyone who responded to my question about the rings.? > Seems that there are examples of people fitting that fifth ring and > leaving it off, and no-one reported a problem or bad experience either > way.? It also seems there is no hard knowledge on why that bottom ring > was fitted, but several of us, me included, think it may have been > aesthetic: simply to reduce the noise from piston slap.? I thought > Earl?s response was most telling in that he had been through a > complete engine cycle (i.e. he is on his second rebuild after 140,000 > miles on the first) with a 5-ring piston and there were no issues > noted on the strip-down and good performance. > > While I have no doubt that extra ring may result in extra friction and > rob the engine of a horsepower or two, no-one has measured it, so we > do not know if that is significant in any way.? The only other > potential down-side is that the bottom ring will scrape the oil from > the cylinder wall on the down-stroke, reducing lubrication on any > piston-cylinder wall contact between the two oil control rings.? > However, the bottom ring may also prevent the piston from making > contact with wall, or at least _reduce_ the friction, so maybe that is > not an issue. > > My goal is a well-built, reliable, original car with factory-level > performance. Given that, and some concerns about the unknown > consequences of an empty ring groove, I am electing to install the > 5^th ring.? Also, I think there is wisdom in Hank?s comment that as a > general rule parts should be installed as the manufacturer intended ? > who are we to second guess the engineers who thought it necessary to > add that ring? > > Interesting discussion, and if anyone ever turns up hard engineering > evidence as to why that extra ring was added, I would be very happy if > they would share it. > > As always, this list is amazing for providing a forum for providing a > forum for discussion on the things we find interesting ? as arcane > they may be! > > With thanks, Mirek > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Apr 19 08:27:50 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 10:27:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop In-Reply-To: <1727157278.99242.1618837645251.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <002001d73515$86b4f330$941ed990$@sympatico.ca> <1727157278.99242.1618837645251.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <003e01d73528$2d940bc0$88bc2340$@sympatico.ca> Thanks Charlie, I have a BT7, and already have bought a rear main oil seal conversion kit, but thanks for the offer. Mirek From: Charles Schott Sent: April 19, 2021 9:07 AM To: m g sharp Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop Mirek, You might be too far along for this, but if you're doing a 100-4 engine I have a new single lip seal conversion kit for the rear of the engine. It requires machining of the crankshaft and the engine block. Also, you can buy a timing chain cover that has been modified to take a single lip seal. Regards, Charlie _____ From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" > To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:14:19 AM Subject: [Healeys] Ring Choice - closing the loop Many thanks to everyone who responded to my question about the rings. Seems that there are examples of people fitting that fifth ring and leaving it off, and no-one reported a problem or bad experience either way. It also seems there is no hard knowledge on why that bottom ring was fitted, but several of us, me included, think it may have been aesthetic: simply to reduce the noise from piston slap. I thought Earl?s response was most telling in that he had been through a complete engine cycle (i.e. he is on his second rebuild after 140,000 miles on the first) with a 5-ring piston and there were no issues noted on the strip-down and good performance. While I have no doubt that extra ring may result in extra friction and rob the engine of a horsepower or two, no-one has measured it, so we do not know if that is significant in any way. The only other potential down-side is that the bottom ring will scrape the oil from the cylinder wall on the down-stroke, reducing lubrication on any piston-cylinder wall contact between the two oil control rings. However, the bottom ring may also prevent the piston from making contact with wall, or at least reduce the friction, so maybe that is not an issue. My goal is a well-built, reliable, original car with factory-level performance. Given that, and some concerns about the unknown consequences of an empty ring groove, I am electing to install the 5th ring. Also, I think there is wisdom in Hank?s comment that as a general rule parts should be installed as the manufacturer intended ? who are we to second guess the engineers who thought it necessary to add that ring? Interesting discussion, and if anyone ever turns up hard engineering evidence as to why that extra ring was added, I would be very happy if they would share it. As always, this list is amazing for providing a forum for providing a forum for discussion on the things we find interesting ? as arcane they may be! With thanks, Mirek _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 10:32:30 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 09:32:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition Message-ID: I want to try an electronic ignition kit to see if my Distributor points plate is causing issues. What say you the hive mind on best kits and which to avoid? If someone has a set up collecting dust and wants to sell, email me directly. I need one soon to put some miles on it before heading out on May12th for Conclave. Thanks Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 10:44:22 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 09:44:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <858018534.258235.1618850629596@mail.ziggo.nl> References: <858018534.258235.1618850629596@mail.ziggo.nl> Message-ID: Thanks for the tip! Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 19, 2021, 9:43 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Petronix is a safe way to go. Well engineered and few problems. Widely > available at reasonable costs. > Another good system is 123ignition. You can choose the advance curve from > a number of curves or you can go for a more advanced system of them where > you can map the ignition on your lap top or smartphone. > Kees Oudesluijs > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Apr 19 10:50:50 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 16:50:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition Message-ID: <0e63178ec0f1f4abee6687766798fa393af145df@webmail> Ira-sounds like you still are having issues with the distributor settings. One thing that was not discussed, surrounding the pinging, was the vacuum advance diaphram. Over the years they are known to perish. Use a mity-vac or yourself to suck on the tube and watch the movement of the point plate in the distributor. If it does not move, you have no vacuum advance. This will affect drivability. As far as which electronic unit to add, I am a fan of Pertronix: https://pertronixbrands.com/ as there are countless units out there with no issues. Some do go bad naturally, and some if key is left on for extended periods, but they seem to be the best overall. For a trip to California, I would suggest you carry a spare distributor set up with good points, or at least a set of points and condenser as backup. Electronics are just that until they fail. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "i erbs" To: "Ahealey help" Cc: Sent: Monday April 19 2021 9:33:39AM Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition I want to try an electronic ignition kit to see if my Distributor points plate is causing issues. What say you the hive mind on best kits and which to avoid? If someone has a set up collecting dust and wants to sell, email me directly. I need one soon to put some miles on it before heading out on May12th for Conclave. Thanks Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ ____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Apr 19 11:25:12 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 10:25:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: References: <858018534.258235.1618850629596@mail.ziggo.nl> Message-ID: The also 123 eliminates the mechanical centrifugal advance, (no weights or springs) and the mechanical vacuum advance (no diaphragm to age) But is about 4x the $ of a Pertronix rg On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 9:45 AM i erbs via Healeys wrote: > Thanks for the tip! > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Mon, Apr 19, 2021, 9:43 AM Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > >> Petronix is a safe way to go. Well engineered and few problems. Widely >> available at reasonable costs. >> Another good system is 123ignition. You can choose the advance curve from >> a number of curves or you can go for a more advanced system of them where >> you can map the ignition on your lap top or smartphone. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Apr 19 11:40:33 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 18:40:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d73543$1a1f7870$4e5e6950$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve tried both Pertronix and the 123. Both are excellent. What can I say? ?.. The Pertonix fits into the Lucas dizzy so it looks just right. The 123 uses a Bosch which looks fine and nobody notices. The 123 comes with various setting with which one can choose one?s advance curve from a selection of 16 (!)pre-sets. (I set mine per advice and have never seen the need to touch it). Another 123 version is more advanced and allows one to connect via USB and tune as you go. Mine has ?Spark Balancing? and ?Automatic Dwell Control?. Etcetc. You need to read the blurb. Conclusion?.I bought the Pertronix and was given the 123. Seemed rude not to fit it! Yes, I think the latter gives a smoother(?)/better spark but there was nothing intrinsically wrong with the Pertronix. And, yes, carry a get-you-home alternative if you?re going far. People tell you that when the electronics fail, they?re DEAD and I?m sure that?s true. I carry my old Lucas with the Pertronix in the boot. Hopefully I can swap them over if the 123 fails. Which it hasn?t yet?..I did have a total failure with the Pertonix. Just died. They swapped it?at once. No argument. Which one? I?d have the 123?.not the clever clogs version. I?d not see myself sitting there fiddling away on my laptop. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: 19 April 2021 17:33 To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition I want to try an electronic ignition kit to see if my Distributor points plate is causing issues. What say you the hive mind on best kits and which to avoid? If someone has a set up collecting dust and wants to sell, email me directly. I need one soon to put some miles on it before heading out on May12th for Conclave. Thanks Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 11:41:43 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 10:41:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BAD87-4BD5-45E2-B004-66EC11FB47D1@comcast.net> I?ve had a Pertronix in as many as four cars at a time with no issues. Also, their customer support is top notch, and except for some slightly different wiring keeps the stock look. > On Apr 19, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Roger Grace wrote: > > ? > The also 123 eliminates the mechanical centrifugal advance, (no weights or springs) and the mechanical vacuum advance (no diaphragm to age) > But is about 4x the $ of a Pertronix > rg > >> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 9:45 AM i erbs via Healeys wrote: >> Thanks for the tip! >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 AH 100-6 >> 1967 MGB >> Milwaukie, OR >> >>> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021, 9:43 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >>> Petronix is a safe way to go. Well engineered and few problems. Widely available at reasonable costs. >>> Another good system is 123ignition. You can choose the advance curve from a number of curves or you can go for a more advanced system of them where you can map the ignition on your lap top or smartphone. >>> Kees Oudesluijs >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agrossman at pacific.net Mon Apr 19 12:07:46 2021 From: agrossman at pacific.net (agrossman at pacific.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 11:07:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <1842438362.260774.1618855476387@mail.ziggo.nl> References: <1842438362.260774.1618855476387@mail.ziggo.nl> Message-ID: <09b27b8bf6f9a00c0add70bdefb5f011@pacific.net> I've been running Pertonix in my weekly driver '64 Chevy pickup for probably 25 years. Also probably 20 years in my Morris, and a few less in an E type. Never a problem. That said, about 10 years ago I sent a dizzy to Jeff @ Advanced and he recommended points, saying the he felt at that time that Pertronix was problematic. Your mileage may vary. Cheers, Alan From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Apr 19 12:42:37 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 12:42:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <09b27b8bf6f9a00c0add70bdefb5f011@pacific.net> References: <1842438362.260774.1618855476387@mail.ziggo.nl> <09b27b8bf6f9a00c0add70bdefb5f011@pacific.net> Message-ID: >>just because you all are using pertronix it doesn't mean you don't have to occasionally? lube the centrifugal advance bits.. dave On 4/19/2021 12:07 PM, Alan Grossman via Healeys wrote: > I've been running Pertonix in my weekly driver '64 Chevy pickup for > probably 25 years. Also probably 20 years in my Morris, and a few less > in an E type. Never a problem. > > That said, about 10 years ago I sent a dizzy to Jeff @ Advanced and he > recommended points, saying the he felt at that time that Pertronix was > problematic. > > Your mileage may vary. > > Cheers, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ From airtightproductions at icloud.com Mon Apr 19 13:09:23 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 19:09:23 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question Message-ID: <95b688cd-51e1-4abf-be6b-606c6106c406@me.com> Richard, ???Here's my setup. I hope this helps and I hope I took a photo of what you need. My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous owner.? Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 18, 2021 at 5:45 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote: I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. Thanks,? Richard _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PXL_20210419_185134299.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2986103 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PXL_20210419_185100356.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2246084 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 13:59:52 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 15:59:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm presuming 6 cyl? M On Sun., Apr. 18, 2021, 8:45 p.m. richard mayor via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo of > how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small 90 degree > clip that is bolted to the shroud support. > Thanks, Richard > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Mon Apr 19 16:16:30 2021 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 18:16:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think this is what Richard wanted. JAV On 4/19/2021 3:59 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > I'm presuming 6 cyl? > > M > > On Sun., Apr. 18, 2021, 8:45 p.m. richard mayor via Healeys, > > wrote: > > I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a > photo of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to > the small 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. > Thanks,? Richard > > _ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: side view.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 150012 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 19 16:45:41 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 22:45:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: <95b688cd-51e1-4abf-be6b-606c6106c406@me.com> References: <95b688cd-51e1-4abf-be6b-606c6106c406@me.com> Message-ID: <993044613.4087054.1618872342403@mail.yahoo.com> StevenThe spring cover is original.?Perry -----Original Message----- From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys To: richard mayor Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2021 3:09 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question Richard,???Here's my setup. I hope this helps and I hope I took a photo of what you need. My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous owner.?Steven KingsburyBN1 On April 18, 2021 at 5:45 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote: I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. Thanks,? Richard _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PXL_20210419_185100356.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2246084 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PXL_20210419_185134299.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2986103 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Apr 19 17:15:39 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 19:15:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: <993044613.4087054.1618872342403@mail.yahoo.com> References: <95b688cd-51e1-4abf-be6b-606c6106c406@me.com> <993044613.4087054.1618872342403@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Perry, Original?? With the staples?? I never would have guessed. Six cylinder version is a smooth rubber tube. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/19/21 6:45 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > Steven > The spring cover is original. > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys > To: richard mayor > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2021 3:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question > > Richard, > ???Here's my setup. I hope this helps and I hope I took a photo of > what you need. My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous > owner. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > > PXL_20210419_185100356.jpgPXL_20210419_185134299.jpg > > On April 18, 2021 at 5:45 PM, richard mayor via Healeys > wrote: > >> I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo >> of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small >> 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. >> Thanks,? Richard >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 18:22:54 2021 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 17:22:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, this is what I needed. Thanks to all that responded. On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:17 PM John Vrugtman via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I think this is what Richard wanted. > > JAV > > > > > On 4/19/2021 3:59 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > I'm presuming 6 cyl? > > M > > On Sun., Apr. 18, 2021, 8:45 p.m. richard mayor via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo of >> how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small 90 degree >> clip that is bolted to the shroud support. >> Thanks, Richard >> >> _ >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: side view.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 150012 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 19 18:35:16 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 20:35:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question References: <9D9F2CCB-9EAC-4DD9-B2C6-3BCBCAA08B4D.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <9D9F2CCB-9EAC-4DD9-B2C6-3BCBCAA08B4D@aol.com> Ok. Steven mention in his post that ?My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous owner.? My response, ?The spring cover is original.? While we could be talking about the condition of the cover my point was that the spring originally had a cover. There are 13 springs below, 12 with a sleeve or various condition on them. A sleeve better than no sleeve. Ask the person who is going for gold at concours judging. He may ask you to borrow your spring to get that last point he needs. Condition is secondary to originality. P -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8374.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31913 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 20:53:39 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 19:53:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <1842438362.260774.1618855476387@mail.ziggo.nl> References: <1842438362.260774.1618855476387@mail.ziggo.nl> Message-ID: <55095ef5-d73a-37cb-2ee3-257aa3c5c68d@comcast.net> I've been running a Pertronix Ignitor with an original coil and stranded wire secondaries with no issues (but I only have about 130K miles on it). Last I checked, it's nigh impossible to get good quality points and condensors. Standard Motors 'Blue Streak' parts used to be good, don't know if they still are. On 4/19/2021 11:04 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The problem with many electronic ignitions is that they are often > fitted directly to the original coil instead of over coil and > resistor. In general the resistance of the original coil is 1,5 Ohm as > is the resistor. However many of the electronic ignition systems > require at least 3 Ohm resistance so if fitted directly to the coil > they can get fried. > If fitted directly to the coil, the coil should be 3 Ohm. > Kees Oudesluijs From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 21:01:55 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 11:01:55 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira - Pertronix is the better option because if she ever fries for whatever reason (happened to me once, actually) you can put points back on and be on your way. I'm not really a fan of the 123... but I know people swear by them... if you go that route I'd get the Pertronix dizzy. LBC car co sells em. Best, Alan On Tue, Apr 20, 2021 at 12:33 AM i erbs wrote: > I want to try an electronic ignition kit to see if my Distributor points > plate is causing issues. What say you the hive mind on best kits and which > to avoid? > If someone has a set up collecting dust and wants to sell, email me > directly. I need one soon to put some miles on it before heading out on > May12th for Conclave. > Thanks > Ira Erbs > Milwaukie,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 21:09:17 2021 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 23:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: <55095ef5-d73a-37cb-2ee3-257aa3c5c68d@comcast.net> References: <55095ef5-d73a-37cb-2ee3-257aa3c5c68d@comcast.net> Message-ID: British Vacuum in Canterberry N H makes capacitors. > On Apr 19, 2021, at 22:54, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ?I've been running a Pertronix Ignitor with an original coil and stranded wire secondaries with no issues (but I only have about 130K miles on it). > > Last I checked, it's nigh impossible to get good quality points and condensors. Standard Motors 'Blue Streak' parts used to be good, don't know if they still are. > > >> On 4/19/2021 11:04 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> The problem with many electronic ignitions is that they are often fitted directly to the original coil instead of over coil and resistor. In general the resistance of the original coil is 1,5 Ohm as is the resistor. However many of the electronic ignition systems require at least 3 Ohm resistance so if fitted directly to the coil they can get fried. >> If fitted directly to the coil, the coil should be 3 Ohm. >> Kees Oudesluijs > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 22:01:07 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2021 21:01:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] electronic ignition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a full pertronix dizzy in a box somewhere, we moved and Im still digging through boxes. The ignitor plate seems like a good idea if it should fail. I have a bunch of nos points and hd condensers. After two new lucas condensors and a set of points crapped out my mechanic replaced my nos points when he rebuilt my dizzy. Thanks folks. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 19, 2021, 8:02 PM Alan Seigrist wrote: > Ira - > > Pertronix is the better option because if she ever fries for whatever > reason (happened to me once, actually) you can put points back on and be on > your way. I'm not really a fan of the 123... but I know people swear by > them... if you go that route I'd get the Pertronix dizzy. LBC car co sells > em. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Tue, Apr 20, 2021 at 12:33 AM i erbs wrote: > >> I want to try an electronic ignition kit to see if my Distributor points >> plate is causing issues. What say you the hive mind on best kits and which >> to avoid? >> If someone has a set up collecting dust and wants to sell, email me >> directly. I need one soon to put some miles on it before heading out on >> May12th for Conclave. >> Thanks >> Ira Erbs >> Milwaukie,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Mon Apr 19 23:52:09 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 05:52:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: <95b688cd-51e1-4abf-be6b-606c6106c406@me.com> <993044613.4087054.1618872342403@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Correction: A spring cover was original, but not that spring cover... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 11:15 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com ; airtightproductions at icloud.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question Perry, Original? With the staples? I never would have guessed. Six cylinder version is a smooth rubber tube. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/19/21 6:45 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote: > Steven > The spring cover is original. > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys > To: richard mayor > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2021 3:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question > > Richard, > Here's my setup. I hope this helps and I hope I took a photo of > what you need. My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous > owner. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > > PXL_20210419_185100356.jpgPXL_20210419_185134299.jpg > > On April 18, 2021 at 5:45 PM, richard mayor via Healeys > wrote: > >> I am reassembling the bonnet release rod mechanism and I need a photo >> of how the rod return spring is attached to the rod and to the small >> 90 degree clip that is bolted to the shroud support. >> Thanks, Richard >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Tue Apr 20 09:33:23 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 15:33:23 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question Message-ID: I didn't know the springs were sleeved as my first 100, a very stock early '53 car, did not have a sleeve on the spring. This cover is quite crude in its "construction" and I rotated it to show the staples better. I just thought it was an add on. Did you notice the wiring? I had no idea when I bought it, but this is a one of a kind rewire job, but everything works, and because of that, I'm not going to fix what ain't broke! ???Thanks for the knowledge and again, this list never ceases to educate me as well as amaze me in the knowledge residing here. Steven Kingsbury BN1?? On April 19, 2021 at 6:18 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: Ok. Steven mention in his post that ?My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous owner.? My response, ?The spring cover is original.? While we could be talking about the condition of the cover my point was that the spring originally had a cover. There are 13 springs below, 12 with a sleeve or various condition on them. A sleeve better than no sleeve. Ask the person who is going for gold at concours judging. He may ask you to borrow your spring to get that last point he needs. Condition is secondary to originality. P Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8374.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31913 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 09:49:49 2021 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 15:49:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <807467448.4372731.1618933789701@mail.yahoo.com> What Bill Lawrence said. There was a spring cover just not that spring cover. It was a length of rubber hose as I recall. On Tuesday, April 20, 2021, 8:34:38 AM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: I didn't know the springs were sleeved as my first 100, a very stock early '53 car, did not have a sleeve on the spring. This cover is quite crude in its "construction" and I rotated it to show the staples better. I just thought it was an add on. Did you notice the wiring? I had no idea when I bought it, but this is a one of a kind rewire job, but everything works, and because of that, I'm not going to fix what ain't broke!???Thanks for the knowledge and again, this list never ceases to educate me as well as amaze me in the knowledge residing here.Steven KingsburyBN1?? On April 19, 2021 at 6:18 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: Ok. Steven mention in his post that ?My spring has be covered with a sleeve by the previous owner.? My response, ?The spring cover is original.? While we could be talking about the condition of the cover my point was that the spring originally had a cover. There are 13 springs below, 12 with a sleeve or various condition on them. A sleeve better than no sleeve. Ask the person who is going for gold at concours judging. He may ask you to borrow your spring to get that last point he needs. Condition is secondary to originality. P Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8374.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31913 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Apr 20 11:08:51 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 17:08:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 4 wheel disc brakes on a 100 References: <403835803.4404383.1618938531979.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <403835803.4404383.1618938531979@mail.yahoo.com> ListersWorking on a modified 100. It has early 3000 disc brakes on the front and small caliper Wilwood after market disc brakes on the rear.?The master cylinder that was mounted is a Mico unit, originally fit to warehouse forklifts, but has been on this car for many years and apparently worked fine.??Not working so "fine" currently.? Now is the time to re examine the master cylinder situation.?So the question is: Anyone out there running four wheel disc brakes on a 100 and if so what are you using for a master cylinder.??ThanksPerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Tue Apr 20 11:31:54 2021 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:31:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are 2 pix of my BN1 (built Nov. 1954)?off the road since 1975, and so filthy dirty it was definitely unmolested! Spring cover is just a piece of rubber hose, which I probably still have in a box somewhere (will look if anyone wants specifics). Sarah Carr BN1 in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: engine bay - firewall#1a-before 4x6.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1099443 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: engine bay - firewall1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 723012 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 11:35:48 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:35:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 4 wheel disc brakes on a 100 In-Reply-To: <403835803.4404383.1618938531979@mail.yahoo.com> References: <403835803.4404383.1618938531979.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <403835803.4404383.1618938531979@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I was required to have a "dual" master cylinder on my "S" for racing and after a lot of research decided on one from an early Toyota Land Cruiser ... it worked very well. M On Tue., Apr. 20, 2021, 1:09 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > Working on a modified 100. It has early 3000 disc brakes on the front and > small caliper Wilwood after market disc brakes on the rear. > The master cylinder that was mounted is a Mico unit, originally fit to > warehouse forklifts, but has been on this car for many years and apparently > worked fine. > Not working so "fine" currently. Now is the time to re examine the master > cylinder situation. > So the question is: Anyone out there running four wheel disc brakes on a > 100 and if so what are you using for a master cylinder. > Thanks > Perry > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 11:38:03 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 13:38:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet release rod question In-Reply-To: <20210420173257.78E53A13EF@autox.team.net> References: <20210420173257.78E53A13EF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Yep that's exactly what was on B.#174. A piece of very thin wall rubber tube. M On Tue., Apr. 20, 2021, 1:35 p.m. S.Carr via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Here are 2 pix of my BN1 (built Nov. 1954)?off the road since 1975, and so > filthy dirty it was definitely unmolested! Spring cover is just a piece of > rubber hose, which I probably still have in a box somewhere (will look if > anyone wants specifics). > > Sarah Carr > > BN1 in PA > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 12:18:39 2021 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 14:18:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 4 wheel disc brakes on a 100 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <73584AB6-0A10-4E7C-8855-E2A94134A6DF@comcast.net> Perry wrote: > ListersWorking on a modified 100. It has early 3000 disc brakes on the front and small caliper Wilwood after market disc brakes on the rear. The master cylinder that was mounted is a Mico unit, originally fit to warehouse forklifts, but has been on this car for many years and apparently worked fine. If the Mico was working fine, why not get another? It seems they're not inexpensive, so it may have been a good solution back then. That said, it seems they are single-cylinder only, not a dual system for your safety. https://www.mico.com/products/master-cylinders -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 12:57:06 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 11:57:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question Message-ID: If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use suppressor carbon wires? Thanks all. Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Apr 20 19:28:10 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 01:28:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and never had a problem. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use suppressor carbon wires? Thanks all. Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 19:46:00 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 18:46:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, Been running my Bugeye for almost twenty years with Pertronix. I bought my spark plug wires from Tractor Supply. They are just copper braided wires as original. Also, non resistor spark plugs. Still runs great. I don't think it makes a difference between top or side wire dizzy cap. Mike MacLean On Tue, Apr 20, 2021 at 11:57 AM i erbs wrote: > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use > suppressor carbon wires? > Thanks all. > Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > Ira Erbs > Milwaukie,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 23:49:58 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 22:49:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount Message-ID: At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? Mike MacLean1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 00:35:37 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2021 23:35:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Trans Mount Message-ID: Oops. Forgot to send a picture. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210420_224234.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4016823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 02:26:00 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 09:26:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator. On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount > looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but > who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this > or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? > Mike MacLean1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Apr 21 02:28:28 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 09:28:28 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No problems. I'm pretty sure that "they say" that graphite core wires don't do well in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I stuck with bumblebees on that advice. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys Sent: 21 April 2021 02:28 To: i erbs ; Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and never had a problem. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of i erbs > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use suppressor carbon wires? Thanks all. Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 02:30:40 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 09:30:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael Forget what I said. The bend is the wrong way for what I described. With an adjustment of the tie rod: this bend is almost unimportant On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 07:48, Michael MacLean via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Oops. Forgot to send a picture. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Apr 21 03:52:22 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 05:52:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> Ira, I believe that the only cap available for the DM6A distributor is the side entry with screws.? The vertical, plug in, cap was fitted to the later 25D6 distributor. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/21/21 4:28 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No problems. > > I?m pretty sure that ?they say? that graphite core wires don?t do well > in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and > time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I > stuck with bumblebees on that advice. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > B LAWRENCE via Healeys > *Sent:* 21 April 2021 02:28 > *To:* i erbs ; Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question > > Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the > distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core > wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and > never had a problem. > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys > on behalf of i erbs > > > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > > *Subject:* [Healeys] another pertronix question > > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use > suppressor carbon wires? > > Thanks all. > > ?Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > > Ira Erbs > > Milwaukie,OR > > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 07:39:04 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 06:39:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> References: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Thanks folks. I had bad experiences with carbon wires and the bumblebees look really cool. Cheers Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 2:52 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > Ira, > > I believe that the only cap available for the DM6A distributor is the > side entry with screws. The vertical, plug in, cap was fitted to the > later 25D6 distributor. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 4/21/21 4:28 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > > > I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No problems. > > > > I?m pretty sure that ?they say? that graphite core wires don?t do well > > in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and > > time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I > > stuck with bumblebees on that advice. > > > > Simon > > > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > > B LAWRENCE via Healeys > > *Sent:* 21 April 2021 02:28 > > *To:* i erbs ; Ahealey help > > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question > > > > Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the > > distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core > > wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and > > never had a problem. > > > > Bill Lawrence > > > > BN1 #554 > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > *From:*Healeys > > on behalf of i erbs > > > > > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM > > *To:* Ahealey help > > > > *Subject:* [Healeys] another pertronix question > > > > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > > > > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use > > suppressor carbon wires? > > > > Thanks all. > > > > Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > > > > Ira Erbs > > > > Milwaukie,OR > > > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > 1967 MGB MG > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 21 08:55:07 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 07:55:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: References: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3515f375-c61e-0fbc-e140-765eb3cce1a3@comcast.net> Side note: It's interesting--to a wonk like me, at least--that the Pertronix Ignitor I for 4-cyl Healeys doesn't need/use the magnet 'collar' that the 6-cyl cars' unit does. Apparently, the Hall Effect sensor in the Ignitor is sensitive enough to detect the lobes of the distributor cam by shape. When I opened the box for my BN2 I thought "Damn, they forgot to pack the magnet collar;" but it wasn't mentioned in the instructions so I installed it. It's worked flawlessly (but I only have a few hundred miles on it). I once owned/drove an old Subaru. It had a 'standard' distributor/coil setup, but used an electronic points module that looked exactly like an Ignitor I (AFAIK Pertronix didn't supply OEM manufacturers). That car was driven hard by myself and a couple of my nephews, and had about 175K miles on it when it finally met the scrapper. bs On 4/21/2021 6:39 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote: > > Thanks folks. > I had bad experiences with carbon wires and the bumblebees look really > cool. > Cheers > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 2:52 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: > > Ira, > > I believe that the only cap available for the DM6A distributor is the > side entry with screws.? The vertical, plug in, cap was fitted to the > later 25D6 distributor. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 4/21/21 4:28 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > > > I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No > problems. > > > > I?m pretty sure that ?they say? that graphite core wires don?t > do well > > in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and > > time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I > > stuck with bumblebees on that advice. > > > > Simon > > > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > > B LAWRENCE via Healeys > > *Sent:* 21 April 2021 02:28 > > *To:* i erbs >; > Ahealey help > > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question > > > > Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the > > distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core > > wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several > years and > > never had a problem. > > > > Bill Lawrence > > > > BN1 #554 > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > *From:*Healeys > > >> on behalf of i erbs > > > >> > > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM > > *To:* Ahealey help > > >> > > *Subject:* [Healeys] another pertronix question > > > > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > > > > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need > to use > > suppressor carbon wires? > > > > Thanks all. > > > > ?Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > > > > Ira Erbs > > > > Milwaukie,OR > > > > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ?_______ > > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > > > ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > 1967 MGB MG > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario > Andretti > > > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Apr 21 09:17:05 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 16:17:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: <3515f375-c61e-0fbc-e140-765eb3cce1a3@comcast.net> References: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> <3515f375-c61e-0fbc-e140-765eb3cce1a3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000a01d736c1$64e8ded0$2eba9c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> There are Pertronix lookalikes around. Powerspark, Accuspark etcetc. Maybe one of those? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys Sent: 21 April 2021 15:55 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question Side note: It's interesting--to a wonk like me, at least--that the Pertronix Ignitor I for 4-cyl Healeys doesn't need/use the magnet 'collar' that the 6-cyl cars' unit does. Apparently, the Hall Effect sensor in the Ignitor is sensitive enough to detect the lobes of the distributor cam by shape. When I opened the box for my BN2 I thought "Damn, they forgot to pack the magnet collar;" but it wasn't mentioned in the instructions so I installed it. It's worked flawlessly (but I only have a few hundred miles on it). I once owned/drove an old Subaru. It had a 'standard' distributor/coil setup, but used an electronic points module that looked exactly like an Ignitor I (AFAIK Pertronix didn't supply OEM manufacturers). That car was driven hard by myself and a couple of my nephews, and had about 175K miles on it when it finally met the scrapper. bs On 4/21/2021 6:39 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote: Thanks folks. I had bad experiences with carbon wires and the bumblebees look really cool. Cheers Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 2:52 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: Ira, I believe that the only cap available for the DM6A distributor is the side entry with screws. The vertical, plug in, cap was fitted to the later 25D6 distributor. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/21/21 4:28 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No problems. > > I?m pretty sure that ?they say? that graphite core wires don?t do well > in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and > time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I > stuck with bumblebees on that advice. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > B LAWRENCE via Healeys > *Sent:* 21 April 2021 02:28 > *To:* i erbs >; Ahealey help > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question > > Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the > distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core > wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and > never had a problem. > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys > >> on behalf of i erbs > >> > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > >> > *Subject:* [Healeys] another pertronix question > > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use > suppressor carbon wires? > > Thanks all. > > Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > > Ira Erbs > > Milwaukie,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Apr 21 16:24:21 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 22:24:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: The perspective of the pic makes the bend look worse than it is. The hold back rod is adjustable and should easily compensate for that little distortion. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of john harper via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 8:30 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trans Mount Michael Forget what I said. The bend is the wrong way for what I described. With an adjustment of the tie rod: this bend is almost unimportant On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 07:48, Michael MacLean via Healeys > wrote: Oops. Forgot to send a picture. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Apr 21 18:26:12 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 00:26:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] another pertronix question In-Reply-To: <000a01d736c1$64e8ded0$2eba9c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <001401d73688$52adc110$f8094330$@alexarevel.plus.com> <44d77c36-69f7-9468-801e-16a743ca629d@earthlink.net> <3515f375-c61e-0fbc-e140-765eb3cce1a3@comcast.net>, <000a01d736c1$64e8ded0$2eba9c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I had to replace my pertronix system when I did my last refurbishment because I switched from positive to negative ground (they are polarity sensitive). The instructions with the new unit stated that carbon core wires were required. I called their service department and they told me that it?s possible that the RF interference generated by some ignition systems could damage the unit. For the sake of caution I switched over. I?m running a DM6 with a top terminal cap. The cap has the acorn nut style terminals, which posed a problem because these are usually held onto the wire by running the bare wire through a washer and splaying it at the end. You can?t do that with carbon core. I got around that by using small stainless wood-screws about a half inch long through the washers and screwed up into the carbon core. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:17 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question There are Pertronix lookalikes around. Powerspark, Accuspark etcetc. Maybe one of those? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys Sent: 21 April 2021 15:55 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question Side note: It's interesting--to a wonk like me, at least--that the Pertronix Ignitor I for 4-cyl Healeys doesn't need/use the magnet 'collar' that the 6-cyl cars' unit does. Apparently, the Hall Effect sensor in the Ignitor is sensitive enough to detect the lobes of the distributor cam by shape. When I opened the box for my BN2 I thought "Damn, they forgot to pack the magnet collar;" but it wasn't mentioned in the instructions so I installed it. It's worked flawlessly (but I only have a few hundred miles on it). I once owned/drove an old Subaru. It had a 'standard' distributor/coil setup, but used an electronic points module that looked exactly like an Ignitor I (AFAIK Pertronix didn't supply OEM manufacturers). That car was driven hard by myself and a couple of my nephews, and had about 175K miles on it when it finally met the scrapper. bs On 4/21/2021 6:39 AM, i erbs via Healeys wrote: Thanks folks. I had bad experiences with carbon wires and the bumblebees look really cool. Cheers Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 2:52 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: Ira, I believe that the only cap available for the DM6A distributor is the side entry with screws. The vertical, plug in, cap was fitted to the later 25D6 distributor. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/21/21 4:28 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > I ran mine with side cap and bumblebees. No suppressors. No problems. > > I?m pretty sure that ?they say? that graphite core wires don?t do well > in the old Lucases. The screws dig into the graphite and > time/vibration abrades the graphite and thus the contact. Anyhow, I > stuck with bumblebees on that advice. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > B LAWRENCE via Healeys > *Sent:* 21 April 2021 02:28 > *To:* i erbs >; Ahealey help > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] another pertronix question > > Ira, the pertronix unit fits on the stock base plate in the > distributor. You can use the same cap. They recommend graphite core > wires, although I ran solid core wires with mine for several years and > never had a problem. > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys > >> on behalf of i erbs > >> > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 20, 2021 6:57 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > >> > *Subject:* [Healeys] another pertronix question > > If I get the adaptor kit will I need to change the cap and wires? > > I am using the side style cap and bumble bee wires. Will I need to use > suppressor carbon wires? > > Thanks all. > > Hope to meet many of you at Conclave. > > Ira Erbs > > Milwaukie,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 20:03:33 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 10:03:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 4 wheel disc brakes on a 100 In-Reply-To: <73584AB6-0A10-4E7C-8855-E2A94134A6DF@comcast.net> References: <73584AB6-0A10-4E7C-8855-E2A94134A6DF@comcast.net> Message-ID: There's no real magic to a master cylinder other than making sure it's the correct diameter and has sufficient travel for the application. If it works and is mounted securely, I would just replace that unit like for like so that you don't mess with the mounting and pedal linkage. On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 2:19 AM Kent McLean wrote: > Perry wrote: > > ListersWorking on a modified 100. It has early 3000 disc brakes on the > front and small caliper Wilwood after market disc brakes on the rear. The > master cylinder that was mounted is a Mico unit, originally fit to > warehouse forklifts, but has been on this car for many years and apparently > worked fine. > > > If the Mico was working fine, why not get another? It seems they're not > inexpensive, so it may have been a good solution back then. That said, it > seems they are single-cylinder only, not a dual system for your safety. > https://www.mico.com/products/master-cylinders > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 20:27:34 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 10:27:34 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know this ??????????? On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Michael > > You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the > only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is > the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the > distance from the fan to the radiator. > > > > On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount >> looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but >> who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this >> or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? >> Mike MacLean1 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Apr 21 20:37:24 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 02:37:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator you?ve been wanting... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM To: john harper Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know this ??????????? On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys > wrote: Michael You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator. On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys > wrote: At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? Mike MacLean1 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Apr 21 21:03:32 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 23:03:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> While talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen anything that gives good guidance on how much to compress the two rubber bungs. I have always compressed them so they just bulge, thus not allowing any play, but not so tight that the bungs are really deformed and loose any ?give? at all. I have never had an issue, just reading the posts and thought I?d ask. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: April 21, 2021 10:37 PM To: Alan Seigrist ; john harper Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator you?ve been wanting... _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM To: john harper > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know this ??????????? On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys > wrote: Michael You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator. On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys > wrote: At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? Mike MacLean1 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 21 21:32:24 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2021 20:32:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> References: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: My dad, a former auto shop teacher, said that as a rule-of-thumb compress them until their diameter is the same as the flat washers that (typically) compress them. This works well for things like sway bar links and 'radiator savers,' but elsewhere tighten so that's there's a bit of a bulge. Of course, if they're 'sandwiched' both should bulge the same. The 'radiator savers' are subject to oil contamination and other abuse; I recommend aftermarket urethane or nylon substitutes that should last as long as we do (same for the bushes in the OD body). bs On 4/21/2021 8:03 PM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: > > While talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen anything > that gives good guidance on how much to compress the two rubber > bungs.? I have always compressed them so they just bulge, thus not > allowing any play, but not so tight that the bungs are really deformed > and loose any ?give? at all.? I have never had an issue, just reading > the posts and thought I?d ask. > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > B LAWRENCE > *Sent:* April 21, 2021 10:37 PM > *To:* Alan Seigrist ; john harper > > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount > > Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator > you?ve been wanting... > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys > on behalf of Alan Seigrist > > > *Sent:* Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM > *To:* john harper > > *Cc:* Ahealey help > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount > > All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if > it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie > rod.? Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my > BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know > this ??????????? > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys > > wrote: > > Michael > > You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy > shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from > going?forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is > bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 21:56:57 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 11:56:57 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That was back in the day when I was able to go to a nearby wrecking yard and get a used 3000 radiator in Pacific Grove for 90 bucks, and I thought I paid too much! On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 10:37 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator you?ve > been wanting... > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Alan > Seigrist > *Sent:* Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM > *To:* john harper > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount > > All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if > it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. > Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not > think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know > this ??????????? > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Michael > > You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the > only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is > the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the > distance from the fan to the radiator. > > > > On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount > looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but > who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this > or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? > Mike MacLean1 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 21:58:30 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 11:58:30 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> References: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Mirek - All you need to do is compress them a bit to make sure it is not loose. Having some give is good to have (will prevent bending up the cross member!), the main thing is to keep the motor from leaping out of the car on a instant stop. Best, Alan On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 11:04 AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > While talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen anything that > gives good guidance on how much to compress the two rubber bungs. I have > always compressed them so they just bulge, thus not allowing any play, but > not so tight that the bungs are really deformed and loose any ?give? at > all. I have never had an issue, just reading the posts and thought I?d ask. > > > > Mirek > > > > > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM B > LAWRENCE > *Sent:* April 21, 2021 10:37 PM > *To:* Alan Seigrist ; john harper < > ah100tech at gmail.com> > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount > > > > Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator you?ve > been wanting... > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Alan > Seigrist > *Sent:* Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM > *To:* john harper > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount > > > > All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if > it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. > Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not > think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know this > ??????????? > > > > On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Michael > > > > You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the > only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is > the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the > distance from the fan to the radiator. > > > > > > > > On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount > looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but > who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this > or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? > > Mike MacLean1 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 22 05:44:38 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 07:44:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: <00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000701d7376c$e007c440$a0174cc0$@sympatico.ca> Sounds like I have been doing it right intuitively. I imagine that having them tight enough to minimize movement on braking also reduces the stress on the motor mount runners, that would otherwise be taking the strain. Thanks for the response. From: Alan Seigrist Sent: April 21, 2021 11:59 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount Mirek - All you need to do is compress them a bit to make sure it is not loose. Having some give is good to have (will prevent bending up the cross member!), the main thing is to keep the motor from leaping out of the car on a instant stop. Best, Alan On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 11:04 AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: While talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen anything that gives good guidance on how much to compress the two rubber bungs. I have always compressed them so they just bulge, thus not allowing any play, but not so tight that the bungs are really deformed and loose any ?give? at all. I have never had an issue, just reading the posts and thought I?d ask. Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: April 21, 2021 10:37 PM To: Alan Seigrist >; john harper > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator you?ve been wanting... _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM To: john harper > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know this ??????????? On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys > wrote: Michael You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator. On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 06:52, Michael MacLean via Healeys > wrote: At the moment I am under my BN2 and noticed the rear transmission mount looks bent. The frame does not look like it has been hit in the front, but who knows? It seems to me this is not right. Do I need to straighten this or will it make a difference in installing the drive train? Mike MacLean1 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Apr 22 07:12:52 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 07:12:52 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Trans Mount In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ..should help installing a new fan belt..? LOL On 4/21/2021 4:24 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote: > The perspective of the pic makes the bend look worse than it is. The > hold back rod is adjustable and should easily compensate for that > little distortion. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of john > harper via Healeys > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 8:30 AM > *To:* Michael MacLean > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trans Mount > Michael > > Forget what I said. The bend is the wrong way for what I described. > With an adjustment of the tie rod: this bend is almost unimportant > > > > On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 07:48, Michael MacLean via Healeys > > wrote: > > Oops.? Forgot to send a picture. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Thu Apr 22 10:17:43 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 09:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Message-ID: <026E3AF1-242A-4069-A44C-0281E1B1ACD1@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5857C57DC1E549ED9010FF4148617792.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52210 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Thu Apr 22 10:28:27 2021 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 09:28:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch In-Reply-To: <026E3AF1-242A-4069-A44C-0281E1B1ACD1@hxcore.ol> References: <026E3AF1-242A-4069-A44C-0281E1B1ACD1@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: Never noticed this when I restored my car. I can only think that it may be a buffer for the top frame when it's in place. When you get the info on this let me know. Thanks Mark Fawcett On Thu, Apr 22, 2021 at 9:19 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the wheel > arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the dimensions. > > > > > > Thanks? Harold > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5857C57DC1E549ED9010FF4148617792.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52210 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Thu Apr 22 10:17:43 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 09:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Message-ID: <026E3AF1-242A-4069-A44C-0281E1B1ACD1@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5857C57DC1E549ED9010FF4148617792.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52210 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Apr 22 11:38:01 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 17:38:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Message-ID: <42d465f1a68eb8cd937fa4793cff36a133c81da5@webmail> That photo is in an upcoming article, in Austin-Healey Magazine, by Geoff Chrysler, Rightway trimming, so you might ask him that question. He must have done this car's interior. He makes the comment: small vinyl covered wood blocks used to carry the plated door seal end finishers. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" To: "Ken Fleming via Healeys" Cc: Sent: Thursday April 22 2021 9:37:05AM Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the wheel arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the dimensions. Thanks? Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Apr 22 11:52:16 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 13:52:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch In-Reply-To: <42d465f1a68eb8cd937fa4793cff36a133c81da5@webmail> References: <42d465f1a68eb8cd937fa4793cff36a133c81da5@webmail> Message-ID: <1fe21796-9a2b-e5e3-5e6b-9d5847449afe@earthlink.net> Hank, The block in the photo is a different block.? The vinyl covered block is farther forward. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/22/21 1:38 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote: > That photo is in an upcoming article, in Austin-Healey Magazine, by > Geoff Chrysler, Rightway trimming, so you might ask him that question. > He must have done this car's interior. He makes the comment:?small > vinyl covered wood blocks used to carry the plated door seal end > finishers. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" > To: "Ken Fleming via Healeys" > Cc: > Sent: Thursday April 22 2021 9:37:05AM > Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch > > Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the > wheel arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the > dimensions. > > INBOX4685887f7e1a98083bba7e240a947710824 > > Thanks? Harold > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 22 11:56:57 2021 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 10:56:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch In-Reply-To: <42d465f1a68eb8cd937fa4793cff36a133c81da5@webmail> References: <42d465f1a68eb8cd937fa4793cff36a133c81da5@webmail> Message-ID: <4D78B57BCC694AF08EA69BFD34671683@DavidNockHP> We have them available new as a set of 4 pieces David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Henry G Leach via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 10:38 AM To: 'Harold Manifold' Cc: 'Ken Fleming via Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch That photo is in an upcoming article, in Austin-Healey Magazine, by Geoff Chrysler, Rightway trimming, so you might ask him that question. He must have done this car's interior. He makes the comment: small vinyl covered wood blocks used to carry the plated door seal end finishers. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" To: "Ken Fleming via Healeys" Cc: Sent: Thursday April 22 2021 9:37:05AM Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the wheel arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the dimensions. Thanks? Harold -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 22 14:45:02 2021 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 20:45:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Message-ID: Sent from my Galaxy Attached are pictures of the side block. It is a piece of wood screwed into the inner fender arch with fairly deeply countersunk pan head screws. Length is 2", depth is .75", and it tapers in width from .75" to .625". It is painted black and appears to act as a buffer for the top bows on BT7 cars. Hope this helps Laurie Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Harold Manifold via Healeys Date: 2021-04-22 12:19 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the wheel arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the dimensions. [cid:com_samsung_android_email_attachmentprovider_1_20839_RAW_1619124177864] Thanks? Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5857C57DC1E549ED9010FF4148617792.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52210 bytes Desc: 5857C57DC1E549ED9010FF4148617792.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: 20210422_160026_resized.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1132163 bytes Desc: 20210422_160026_resized.jpg URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 22 15:18:42 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 14:18:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501d737bd$12f87b60$38e97220$@sbcglobal.net> The block is on each side of my BT7 and it sits under the carpet. When I restored my car eight years ago it is certain that I removed and reinstalled or installed new ones that I would have made. However, it appears to serve no purpose. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Laurie Wilford via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 1:45 PM To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Sent from my Galaxy Attached are pictures of the side block. It is a piece of wood screwed into the inner fender arch with fairly deeply countersunk pan head screws. Length is 2", depth is .75", and it tapers in width from .75" to .625". It is painted black and appears to act as a buffer for the top bows on BT7 cars. Hope this helps Laurie Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: Harold Manifold via Healeys > Date: 2021-04-22 12:19 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Block above Wheel Arch Does anyone know the size and purpose of the wooden block above the wheel arch in this picture? I can make the blocks if I can get the dimensions. Thanks? Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Apr 23 17:46:00 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2021 16:46:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tapped Plate Dimensions Message-ID: <3285911B-53E4-49F7-8FF9-C6D805B39FFA@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2B27D5D703CA4C7CB8B40D09C21B3F79.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 17077 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 21:04:08 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2021 20:04:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Message-ID: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob From ynotink at msn.com Fri Apr 23 22:06:56 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 04:06:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 04:08:05 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 11:08:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bill There are two different ways that Girling and Lockheed adjust front brakes. Lockheed has an adjuster between the wheel cylinder and the brake shoe. Girling adjusts the brakes by letting the shoe be permanently in contact with the wheel cylinder with a snail cam acting as a backstop that can move the shoe and wheel cylinder piston closer to the drum. If the shoe is adjusted with the cam it can leave air in the cylinder that will not bleed out but will leave a soft pedal. Try adjusting the snail cams to allow the shoes and pistons to be fully down and then try bleeding. On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 05:09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is > that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little > extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug > when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and > use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air > out of the bleeder. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 05:49:11 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 07:49:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, more diagnosis is required. Use vice grips to GENTLY clamp off all 3 flex hoses. If the pedal is not rock solid with the clamped off the problem is in the master cylinder. If it is have someone hold pressure on the pedal then release the clamps one at a time to identify the offending brake(s). M On Fri., Apr. 23, 2021, 11:12 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Apr 24 06:32:54 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 12:32:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: <278413420.674371.1619267574319@mail.yahoo.com> Bob / ListersFrom the Factory manual under Bleeding the Hydraulic System."Note:? It is advisable to turn all the brake shoe adjusters to their full "off" position before bleeding.? After bleeding adjust brakes as described."Perry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell via Healeys To: Healeys Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2021 11:04 pm Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Apr 24 06:42:31 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 08:42:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: May be some useful information in here. https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ M On Fri., Apr. 23, 2021, 11:12 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From a2garrison at charter.net Sat Apr 24 15:33:29 2021 From: a2garrison at charter.net (Alan Garrison) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 17:33:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tapped Plate Dimensions In-Reply-To: <3285911B-53E4-49F7-8FF9-C6D805B39FFA@hxcore.ol> References: <3285911B-53E4-49F7-8FF9-C6D805B39FFA@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <028701d73951$77fad360$67f07a20$@charter.net> Harold That plate on my BN6 measures 3-1/4? L x 1? w x 3/16? Thick. The ?-28 taped hole is not centered, measuring 1-13/16? from one end to its center. Let me know if you need any more info. Alan From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 7:46 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Tapped Plate Dimensions Hello, I am looking for the dimensions of the tapped plate, item #19 in the picture below. It is part of fasteners to attach the rear wings. I know the hole is tapped ?-28 but what is LxWxD of the plate? Is the hole in the centre? Thanks ? Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 17077 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 24 19:41:28 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8faf43c7-1a97-f330-e036-edb5d157fe78@comcast.net> (non) progress report: Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in ... brake pedal goes to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then parked it. Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars. Bob On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s > is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes > a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a > pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep > bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one > that actually moves the air out of the bleeder. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sun Apr 25 03:17:12 2021 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 10:17:12 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <8faf43c7-1a97-f330-e036-edb5d157fe78@comcast.net> References: <5b05f99d-c114-afcd-38c2-8317670fe4f0@comcast.net> <8faf43c7-1a97-f330-e036-edb5d157fe78@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob I suggest that you look for a fluid leak. I had one from a relatively new wheel cylinder where there was a leak where the pipe bolted in. I suspect that it was a flaw in the original material. As the leak was inside a drum I did not see it originally. Another possibility is that the master cylinder piston is no coming back enough. It is important to adjust so there is about 5/8" pedal slack. If there is no slack this can cause problems but this is usually that the brakes come on by themselves and get worse as the shoes warm up. On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 at 02:45, Bob Spidell wrote: > (non) progress report: > > Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex > line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and, > Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble, > like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding > rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my > BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage > of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the > 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled > into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant > all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under > the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to > AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's > underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in ... brake pedal goes > to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple > times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the > new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then > parked it. > > Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the > 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so > beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has > generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a > good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I > love these cars. > > Bob > > On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is > that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little > extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug > when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and > use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air > out of the bleeder. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys > on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys > > *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Apr 25 03:54:51 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 17:54:51 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] wishing all our southern friends a heartfelt ANZAC day Message-ID: My daughter ended up playing an Aussie rules match here in Hong Kong and we had a very nice ceremony at the pitch. They shall not grow old. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Apr 25 10:49:07 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 16:49:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Message-ID: <1880631d3f5d3f0480894f8c238866efce8c613c@webmail> Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore. For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function. Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales...Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem (non) progress report: Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in ... brake pedal goes to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then parked it. Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars. Bob On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys SENT: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM TO: Healeys SUBJECT: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 11:23:32 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 10:23:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <1880631d3f5d3f0480894f8c238866efce8c613c@webmail> References: <1880631d3f5d3f0480894f8c238866efce8c613c@webmail> Message-ID: Hank, Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are 'no-name' so possibly County,? and the one front cyl I put in is Moss 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes, probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration, and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that I know of). *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available, but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;).? I use less than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the subject (examples): https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ Bob On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel > cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China. If > you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other > three for the front?? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the problem > with the seals being incorrect for the bore.? For instance, on a > Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of the > casing and never again to function.? Replacement parts today are to be > suspect in an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > > (non) progress report: > > Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex > line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion > and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a > bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my > pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard > pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could > pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a > warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it > started running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant > parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side > of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off > valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in > order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's > underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in .. brake pedal > goes to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal > a couple times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a > smaller block--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no > 'scuttle shake' detected--then parked it. > > Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the > 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was > so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the > BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I > can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just > sitting. Good thing I love these cars. > > Bob > > On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and > 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system > so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You > probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel > cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various > techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out > of the bleeder. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > Listers, > > I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the > wall. Here's what I've done: > > - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels > - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 > front wheels) > - new master cylinder > > I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just > pressure bled > as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a > couple > times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a > period of > time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight > pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be > the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and > bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's > finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum > bleeding and > old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm > not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up > a bit > with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after > some time. > > Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. > > TIA, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Apr 25 11:46:11 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 17:46:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Message-ID: <86140d0b3c5d4d5e05fd581a95f4b1c85c1ab333@webmail> Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with brake fluid. Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines. You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest.Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS Girling if you can find any. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Hank, Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are 'no-name' so possibly County, and the one front cyl I put in is Moss 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes, probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration, and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that I know of). *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available, but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;). I use less than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the subject (examples): [1]https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [2] [3]https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ [4] Bob On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore. For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function. Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem (non) progress report: Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in .. brake pedal goes to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then parked it. Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars. Bob On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys SENT: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM TO: Healeys SUBJECT: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Links: ------ [1] https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [2] https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [3] https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ [4] https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: master kit (I).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 285152 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: County cyl G.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 532159 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 12:04:30 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:04:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem In-Reply-To: <86140d0b3c5d4d5e05fd581a95f4b1c85c1ab333@webmail> References: <86140d0b3c5d4d5e05fd581a95f4b1c85c1ab333@webmail> Message-ID: The wheel cylinders didn't have 'County' embossed (I always check for that). I found new fittings from a 'classic car' supplier; as used in our Healeys they're not common now (ours have an un-threaded part aout 1/8" at the end). They screwed in easily. On 4/25/2021 10:46 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF > thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in > fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with > brake fluid.? Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some > from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only > assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully > applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines. > > You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to > see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There > must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest. > Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS > Girling if you can find any. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: gradea1 at charter.net > Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" > Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem > > Hank, > > Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely > disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are > 'no-name' so possibly County,? and the one front cyl I put in is Moss > 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the > box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes, > probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration, > and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a > front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other > solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a > 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that > I know of). > > *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the > fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful > not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I > ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that > when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but > likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available, > but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were > rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw > in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents > high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin > application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear > the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;).? I use less > than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing > surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is > unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see > that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent > rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much > easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due > to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass > fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the > subject (examples): > > https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ > > > https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ > > > Bob > > On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel > cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled > China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what > about the other three for the front?? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I > have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore. > For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the > seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function. > Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like > you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Apr 25 14:54:25 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2021 20:54:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Problems Message-ID: <9929affa6582a6e6ac20207be48612b8c9a84b8f@webmail> Say, Bob, this is such a complex issue and so much discussion about bleeding over the years. There is no simple solution on any of these British cars. The system is minimal for the task required. The one thing about the rusting you mention is actually the "battery effect" of two dis-similar metals; the alloy cylinder and steel fitting, so the anti seize maybe does address that issue thru insulation. I have found that sometimes, unfortunately, only heat will separate those components-same issue with the steel wheel cylinder piston. I recently wrote three articles for the Austin-Healey Magazine titled "Give me a Brake" and the first article, in Feb/Mar issue, deals with the 100 brakes. The second story will be out in the May/June issue about masters, and the final is about BJ8 boosters. I mentioned a few things in these articles-from bad experience-that I'm sure you also found. I always use a flare nut wrench to try to keep the flats, and I never attach the cylinder hard to its fixing until I first cinch up the line...that way I can wiggle the unit as it hand threads so as not to strip it. Those cylinders will strip just to look at them! Sure hope you find the solution, as that is one of the most fustrating procedures on the Healey and a good reason why some even sold their rides! Hank -----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:46:12AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with brake fluid. Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines. You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest. Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS Girling if you can find any. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Hank, Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are 'no-name' so possibly County, and the one front cyl I put in is Moss 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes, probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration, and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that I know of). *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available, but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;). I use less than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the subject (examples): [1] [2]https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [3] [4] [5]https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ [6] Bob On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore. For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function. Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Spidell" To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem (non) progress report: Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in .. brake pedal goes to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then parked it. Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars. Bob On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys SENT: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM TO: Healeys SUBJECT: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem Listers, I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the wall. Here's what I've done: - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 front wheels) - new master cylinder I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after some time. Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed. TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Links: ------ [1] https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [2] https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [3] https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/ [4] https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ [5] https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ [6] https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Apr 25 19:02:34 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 01:02:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 350 starter References: <765293022.1019327.1619398954461.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <765293022.1019327.1619398954461@mail.yahoo.com> Hi folks,Question on my 350 SBC. ?When replacing the starter solenoid it is possible to attach it in two different positions - each 180 degrees oriented from the other. ?Is only one of these positions correct or can the starter be operable in either? I had the solenoid replaced on a starter recently and the ignition terminal is 180 different from another identical functioning starter.TIA. Keith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 07:37:58 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 09:37:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears Message-ID: What's the easiest way to remove the fender spears on a BJ8 while the fenders remain attached to the body? Thanks, Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Apr 26 07:55:01 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 09:55:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006001d73aa3$c0ca4280$425ec780$@sympatico.ca> I believe the two nuts/lockwashers that hold each on are fairly easy to access from below, reaching up inside the fender, just behind the wheel well. If they have not been off for a while, the nuts could be seized and will easily snap the threaded posts off the spears. You might want to soak them with WD40 for a while ? it may help. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: April 26, 2021 9:38 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears What's the easiest way to remove the fender spears on a BJ8 while the fenders remain attached to the body? Thanks, Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Mon Apr 26 13:06:56 2021 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 15:06:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6C5C4C8C-62CB-4D6B-92BB-EC663A2BEF79@comcast.net> Mirek wrote: > You might want to soak them with WD40 for a while ? it may help. WD-40 is not meant as a penetrating oil. WD-40 was named for Water Displacement, 40th recipe; good for drying out your distributor cap. On rusted fasteners, you want to use a real rust-buster like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or Kroil. Some people swear by a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. https://www.liquidwrench.com/ https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/ https://www.kroil.com/ acetone+atf tested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 15:12:47 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 17:12:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick-- Re removing the fender spears: It depends whether they are on facing forwards or backwards. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Apr 26, 2021 at 9:38 AM HealeyRick wrote: > What's the easiest way to remove the fender spears on a BJ8 while the > fenders remain attached to the body? > > Thanks, > Rick Neville > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 16:00:55 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 18:00:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> Bob: I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the clutch dramatically. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Listers, Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the PCV valve. Two questions: 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys vertical (engine side down). 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters on each end? Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 26 18:06:27 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 00:06:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1609266503.1496785.1619481987548@mail.yahoo.com> ?BobGlad to hear that your install is working. All the best.Perry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Begani via Healeys To: 'Bob Haskell' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2021 6:00 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation #yiv5572831846 #yiv5572831846 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5572831846 #yiv5572831846 p.yiv5572831846MsoNormal, #yiv5572831846 li.yiv5572831846MsoNormal, #yiv5572831846 div.yiv5572831846MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5572831846 pre {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv5572831846 span.yiv5572831846HTMLPreformattedChar {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv5572831846 span.yiv5572831846EmailStyle20 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5572831846 .yiv5572831846MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv5572831846 div.yiv5572831846WordSection1 {}#yiv5572831846 Bob: ?I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose into it with a hose clamp.? ??Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large opening for the brake booster.? No leakage and strong negative pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the clutch dramatically. ?Bob Begani ?From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation ?Listers, Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).? Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.? 3/8" hose to the PCV valve.? Two questions: 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way?? Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys vertical (engine side down). 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV valve is 1/2".? Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters on each end? Thanks. ?Cheers, ?Bob HaskellAustin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 18:09:25 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 17:09:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover Message-ID: after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Apr 26 18:22:40 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 20:22:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Bob, Thanks for the info.? I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.? I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.? 3/8" hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.? Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Bob: > > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > into it with a hose clamp.? ??Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > opening for the brake booster.? No leakage and strong negative > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > clutch dramatically. > > Bob Begani > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Haskell > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > Listers, > > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).? Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.? 3/8" hose to the > PCV valve.? Two questions: > > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way?? > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > vertical (engine side down). > > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > valve is 1/2".? Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > on each end? > > Thanks. > > Cheers, > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 18:51:00 2021 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 20:51:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> Use driving gloves > On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys wrote: > > ? > after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. > Ira Erbs > Milwaukie,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 18:51:51 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 17:51:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks Might have to Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: > Use driving gloves > > On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys > wrote: > > ? > after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want > to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one > made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is > so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" > or smaller covers. > Ira Erbs > Milwaukie,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 19:24:48 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 18:24:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] More on 100 Door Checks Message-ID: The bad door check was replaced by another Moss (AH Spares) today. It has not been installed yet. I will do that after dinner tonight. There was one thing about the replacement door check though. It was assembled incorrectly. You can see in Roger Moment's article in the latest Austin Healey Magazine the curved arm that connects to the front door frame is coming out of a slot in the door check that is closer to the outside edge of the A pillar. You can see in the picture below from the driver's side that has been installed correctly. The curve in the arm was in the opposite direction. If you look at the AH Spares website you can see in the picture what I am talking about. Of course you are saying why don't you just flip it over and move on. The only reason I bring this up is the arm was locked in it's full extended position, tightly clamped between the two leaf type springs. Without possibly bending the curved arm it was quite difficult to back the arm out to turn it over. I finally used a flat punch and a small hammer to put pressure on the little leaf springs. Overall this assembly is not that well made for $80. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210426_152222.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4172472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210426_152406.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3006110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Apr 26 19:32:38 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 01:32:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover Message-ID: Gloves are good on bare wheel, but this one will fit on Healey wheel about $12 on ebay: Sport Grip - Black Lace-On Steering Wheel Cover Will stretch to 16" and easily removed for display of stock wheel. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "i erbs" To: "Team.net" Cc: "Ahealey help" Sent: Monday April 26 2021 5:53:18PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover Thanks Might have to Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: Use driving gloves On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys wrote: ? after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ ____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com [10] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: interior.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 323569 bytes Desc: not available URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Mon Apr 26 23:01:16 2021 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:01:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> Ira: Find a cover you like. Buy two of them. Cut a section out of the bottom of one of them. Determine how much you need to fill the gap. Cut that much out of the other one that matches the pattern of the first one.. Take them to a shoe repair shop and have them sew it all together. If you need to, you can cover the 'joints' with tape. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: i erbs To: Team.net Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover Thanks Might have to Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: Use driving gloves On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys wrote: ? after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCF4191.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4102851 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 26 23:15:21 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2021 22:15:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: Rube goldberg wheel cover. Thanks Len Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 10:13 PM Len and/or Marge Hartnett < thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: > > Ira: Find a cover you like. Buy two of them. Cut a section out of the > bottom of one of them. Determine how much you need to fill the gap. Cut > that much out of the other one that matches the pattern of the first one.. > Take them to a shoe repair shop and have them sew it all together. If you > need to, you can cover the 'joints' with tape. > > (The Other) Len > Fairfield, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* i erbs > *To:* Team.net > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2021 5:51 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover > > Thanks > Might have to > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: > >> Use driving gloves >> >> On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? >> after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't >> want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather >> one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel >> is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with >> 15.5" or smaller covers. >> Ira Erbs >> Milwaukie,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wdavid890dd at aol.com Tue Apr 27 04:08:32 2021 From: wdavid890dd at aol.com (wdavid890dd) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 10:08:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Pcv orientation References: <870929105.593554.1619518112778.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <870929105.593554.1619518112778@mail.yahoo.com> Team, ? ? ? ? ??In regards to PCV orientation, it depends on the type of valve.The spring loaded type can be put in any position, the gravity type needs to be vertical. I plan on doing this myself to reduce oil?leakage.The success the member had is encouraging.I found some simple pcv valves on Amazon. BJ7 63 Dave Walsh Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 04:49:41 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 06:49:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael, Thanks for your "helpful" post :LOL. Actually, I'm planning on reinstalling one right side forward and the other backwards so I will be sure I have at least one of them right. Backwards spears are right up there with upside-down bugeye rear bumperettes and upside down MGB front directional signals as a sign the owner has no clue what they are doing. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville On Mon, Apr 26, 2021 at 5:12 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > Rick-- > > Re removing the fender spears: It depends whether they are on facing > forwards or backwards. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Apr 26, 2021 at 9:38 AM HealeyRick wrote: > >> What's the easiest way to remove the fender spears on a BJ8 while the >> fenders remain attached to the body? >> >> Thanks, >> Rick Neville >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 27 05:30:01 2021 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 12:30:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005d01d73b58$aa5f92b0$ff1eb810$@alexarevel.plus.com> A more interesting version would be inside out. Maybe those fine guys at County could get something off the shelf? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of HealeyRick via Healeys Sent: 27 April 2021 11:50 To: Michael Oritt Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears Michael, Thanks for your "helpful" post :LOL. Actually, I'm planning on reinstalling one right side forward and the other backwards so I will be sure I have at least one of them right. Backwards spears are right up there with upside-down bugeye rear bumperettes and upside down MGB front directional signals as a sign the owner has no clue what they are doing. Happy and Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 05:49:44 2021 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 07:49:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: If the steering wheel cover is leather and is too small, you can likely stretch it by first soaking in water. I routinely wet and stretch leather sports gloves, then set the size by gently drying with a hair dryer. On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 1:10 AM Len and/or Marge Hartnett < thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: > > Ira: Find a cover you like. Buy two of them. Cut a section out of the > bottom of one of them. Determine how much you need to fill the gap. Cut > that much out of the other one that matches the pattern of the first one.. > Take them to a shoe repair shop and have them sew it all together. If you > need to, you can cover the 'joints' with tape. > > (The Other) Len > Fairfield, CA, USA > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* i erbs > *To:* Team.net > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2021 5:51 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover > > Thanks > Might have to > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: > >> Use driving gloves >> >> On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys >> wrote: >> >> ? >> after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't >> want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather >> one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel >> is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with >> 15.5" or smaller covers. >> Ira Erbs >> Milwaukie,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 07:06:07 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 09:06:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> Bob: Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Bob, Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Bob: > > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > clutch dramatically. > > Bob Begani > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Haskell > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > Listers, > > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the > PCV valve. Two questions: > > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > vertical (engine side down). > > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > on each end? > > Thanks. > > Cheers, > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 07:28:01 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 14:28:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> References: <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7CC1B7C5-2B66-4633-B58B-E985EBF23E41@gmail.com> The Norman Nock use of a PCV valve to depressurise the crankcase is a work of genius. I first found the mod and implemented it on my BJ8 in 2006. The system uses a PCV valve but is NOT a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. It is a crankcase depressurisation system that ensures there is a constant partial vacuum in the crankcase area to prevent positive pressure defeating oil seals - especially the rather half-arsed cork seals around the the rear crank journal. The filler cap hole has to be sealed and a felt washer put around the dipstick collar to prevent air getting in via the dip tube. If air is allowed to circulate, by venting the crankcase, that air is immediately drawn into the inlet manifold weakening the mixture of the rear carb and raising the idle speed. Install a PCV valve, seal the cap and dip tube and enjoy the result. It does work. Alan - from my iPad > On 27 Apr 2021, at 14:07, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote: > > ?Bob: > > Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. > > Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. > > Bob Begani > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Haskell > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM > To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > Bob, > > Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" > barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. > To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" > hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: >> >> Bob: >> >> I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of >> the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose >> into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? >> brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into >> the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large >> opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative >> pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the >> clutch dramatically. >> >> Bob Begani >> >> *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob >> Haskell >> *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM >> *To:* Healey List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation >> >> Listers, >> >> Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm >> Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) >> that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the >> PCV valve. Two questions: >> >> 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? >> Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys >> vertical (engine side down). >> >> 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV >> valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters >> on each end? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Cheers, >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 07:37:56 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 14:37:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears Message-ID: Whilst mentioning pet irritations. Mine is the fitting of MGB wood rim steering wheels to Big Healeys. The spoke orientation of 180/90/90 perfectly hides the instruments and just looks soooo dumb. Gerry Coker designed and built a wood rim wheel for the 100S, at the request of DMH, with spokes at 60/60/60. The standard ?banjo? wheel fitted to all Big Healeys has the same orientation with one spoke vertical splitting the two main instruments. Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim wheel and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!! Alan - from my iPad Bluehealey.com > On 27 Apr 2021, at 11:50, HealeyRick via Healeys wrote: > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Apr 27 08:05:14 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 14:05:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC>, Message-ID: If the glove don?t fit, you must acquit................ Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Al Fuller via Healeys Sent: April 27, 2021 6:51 AM To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover If the steering wheel cover is leather and is too small, you can likely stretch it by first soaking in water. I routinely wet and stretch leather sports gloves, then set the size by gently drying with a hair dryer. On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 1:10 AM Len and/or Marge Hartnett > wrote: Ira: Find a cover you like. Buy two of them. Cut a section out of the bottom of one of them. Determine how much you need to fill the gap. Cut that much out of the other one that matches the pattern of the first one.. Take them to a shoe repair shop and have them sew it all together. If you need to, you can cover the 'joints' with tape. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: i erbs To: Team.net Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover Thanks Might have to Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net > wrote: Use driving gloves On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys > wrote: ? after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 27 08:14:18 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 10:14:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> IT would not look right on a Healey, but on my old M.G.s (?48 TC and ?35 PA), cord-bound steering wheels look the dog?s bollocks (IMHO) ? see pic. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys Sent: April 26, 2021 8:09 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD0001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2995.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 918083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1246.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1533571 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 08:22:03 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 07:22:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: Not leather But good tip Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 4:51 AM Al Fuller via Healeys wrote: > If the steering wheel cover is leather and is too small, you can likely > stretch it by first soaking in water. I routinely wet and stretch leather > sports gloves, then set the size by gently drying with a hair dryer. > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 1:10 AM Len and/or Marge Hartnett < > thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote: > >> >> Ira: Find a cover you like. Buy two of them. Cut a section out of the >> bottom of one of them. Determine how much you need to fill the gap. Cut >> that much out of the other one that matches the pattern of the first one.. >> Take them to a shoe repair shop and have them sew it all together. If you >> need to, you can cover the 'joints' with tape. >> >> (The Other) Len >> Fairfield, CA, USA >> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* i erbs >> *To:* Team.net >> *Cc:* Ahealey help >> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2021 5:51 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover >> >> Thanks >> Might have to >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 AH 100-6 >> 1967 MGB >> Milwaukie, OR >> >> On Mon, Apr 26, 2021, 5:51 PM Team.net wrote: >> >>> Use driving gloves >>> >>> On Apr 26, 2021, at 20:10, i erbs via Healeys >>> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't >>> want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather >>> one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel >>> is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with >>> 15.5" or smaller covers. >>> Ira Erbs >>> Milwaukie,OR >>> _______ _______ >>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>> (_________________________) >>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>> >>> >>> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >>> >>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cmmasucci at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 09:33:48 2021 From: cmmasucci at gmail.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 10:33:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: <9B138FB6-B070-411F-B207-E87FF9BB5711@gmail.com> <6E0D2972E2404E62A7BAF5CE30F883D7@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: https://wheelskins.com/ High quality and any size you want, made to order. I have one on an original healey wheel and a cheapy wooden one, and I love em. Chris > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Apr 27 09:41:02 2021 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 08:41:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> , <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 09:58:06 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 08:58:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Esoteric Question Message-ID: <24afa761-cd83-f1ee-b2af-3a578db8d81b@comcast.net> I figure someone here will know the answer to this: [perfunctory Healey content] We all know our cars have 'flat tappet' lifter/tappet valve trains, while many of their contemporaries had hydraulic or roller cams and tappets. It's always been a given that flat, or roller, tappets were superior to hydraulic--for 'performance' cars anyway--but why? Is it because flat/roller lifters allow finer, more precise and more consistent valve operation, or because they're cheaper? Otherwise, hydraulic lifters--which are also used in most aircraft piston engines--don't require as much fiddling as flat/roller tappets and presumably are less inclined to wipe cam lobes. It seems rollers would be the best solution, but still require occasionally fiddling, and generate lots of 'opinion pieces' as to how best to adjust them. What got me to thinking about this: A good friend just bought a gorgeous BJ7 at Barrett-Jackson, along with a hot rod and a '62/3 'Vette (yes, she has lots of money, or had lots of money until she bought a Healey ;). When I started it up--took me a while to realize that BJ7s still had starter buttons--it had a very loud lifter knock. Before I started it, I noticed there was what appeared to be brass shim stock covering the rocker under the oil fill cap. I'm afraid: 1) the engine might have a wiped cam lobe, which creates the loud 'tapping' noise and 2) the rocker shaft may be worn, so someone put the shim stock over a rocker to prevent an oil geyser when you open the filler cap with the engine running. I can't think of a reason why these would be related, but who knows? Also, when I popped the radiator cap it fell apart in three pieces (cap, spring, and seal). It looked like it might have been the original (I have a new one on order for her). Bob From gturl at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 27 10:29:19 2021 From: gturl at sympatico.ca (gturl gturl) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 12:29:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Vacuum Advance Unit Message-ID: <13072755.798431.1619540959909.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Apr 27 10:33:26 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 10:33:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Vacuum Advance Unit In-Reply-To: <13072755.798431.1619540959909.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> References: <13072755.798431.1619540959909.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> Message-ID: <21d491aa-8f23-4d71-9cb9-7ef1e6ea2fde@porterscustom.com> 5-12-8? stamped on the unit.. On 4/27/2021 10:29 AM, gturl gturl via Healeys wrote: > > How can I determine if I have the correct vacuum advance unit?for my > BJ8. It has a threaded connection for the line to the rear > carburetor,?a spring connection to the points plate which all > works/fits but no identifying marks or numbers describing its > operation (min " of Hg, max " of Hg and max degrees of advance). On > the same subject, what are the correct values? > > Geoff Turl (AHCSO 67 BJ8) > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 10:56:11 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 12:56:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Vacuum Advance Unit In-Reply-To: <13072755.798431.1619540959909.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> References: <13072755.798431.1619540959909.JavaMail.open-xchange@torgui08> Message-ID: The original Lucas part # which should be stamped on the capsule is 54413360. M On Tue., Apr. 27, 2021, 12:29 p.m. gturl gturl via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > How can I determine if I have the correct vacuum advance unit for my BJ8. > It has a threaded connection for the line to the rear carburetor, a spring > connection to the points plate which all works/fits but no identifying > marks or numbers describing its operation (min " of Hg, max " of Hg and max > degrees of advance). On the same subject, what are the correct values? > > Geoff Turl (AHCSO 67 BJ8) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Tue Apr 27 11:22:25 2021 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 17:22:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> References: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <21449881.689591.1619544145207@mail.yahoo.com> Heh..Macrame jim On Tuesday, April 27, 2021, 7:20:10 AM PDT, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: IT would not look right on a Healey, but on my old M.G.s (?48 TC and ?35 PA), cord-bound steering wheels look the dog?s bollocks (IMHO) ? see pic. ? Mirek ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys Sent: April 26, 2021 8:09 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover ? after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes ? ? 1967 MGB ? ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD0001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 13:33:54 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 15:33:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation question Message-ID: <04b101d73b9c$42e9bb30$c8bd3190$@gmail.com> Attached are the pictures and Nock description. No doubt you have read how successful it was on my recently rebuilt engine whereby it consumed 2 qts one a 80 mile round trip on I-75. It is down to a few drops after driving for 35 miles. Although I only just closed off the vent on the valve cover plus the filler cap vent. Will be watching the oil flow at Interstate highway speeds of 70 mph plus next week. Regards, Bob Begani BJ8 67 From: Richard Berman Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 1:22 PM To: rfbegani at gmail.com Subject: PCV valve installation question Bob, I have read you PCV valve installation notes and was wondering if you could send me a picture os Norm Nock's Tech Tip (p.98) a I don't have his guide. I'm interested in this to reduce my oil leakage issue. thanks, rich berman '57 100/6 BN4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Nock PVC valve info20210427_15175367.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 475150 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey PCV valve install.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 998685 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 14:02:34 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 16:02:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> References: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <04e101d73ba0$43f3b450$cbdb1cf0$@gmail.com> It is called French Whipping a sailors knot. My partner on our sailboat was bored one cold winter and covered our stainless steel wheel. Lasted years. I am too lazy to redo the whipping. Looks great. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 10:14 AM To: 'i erbs' ; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover IT would not look right on a Healey, but on my old M.G.s (?48 TC and ?35 PA), cord-bound steering wheels look the dog?s bollocks (IMHO) ? see pic. Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys Sent: April 26, 2021 8:09 PM To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover after only 40 years my leather steering wheel cover gave out. I don't want to stich my new cover on my wheel, I'm going to have a custom leather one made. I just need something that I can use for a little while. My wheel is so thin in my hands. Any suggestions? Every web search comes up with 15.5" or smaller covers. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 15:17:27 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 17:17:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim wheel and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!!" Because they are easy to get and cheaper. M On Tue., Apr. 27, 2021, 9:38 a.m. Bluehealey via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Whilst mentioning pet irritations. > Mine is the fitting of MGB wood rim steering wheels to Big Healeys. The > spoke orientation of 180/90/90 perfectly hides the instruments and just > looks soooo dumb. > Gerry Coker designed and built a wood rim wheel for the 100S, at the > request of DMH, with spokes at 60/60/60. The standard ?banjo? wheel fitted > to all Big Healeys has the same orientation with one spoke vertical > splitting the two main instruments. > Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim wheel > and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!! > > Alan - from my iPad > Bluehealey.com > > > On 27 Apr 2021, at 11:50, HealeyRick via Healeys > wrote: > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Apr 27 15:50:23 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 21:50:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <04e101d73ba0$43f3b450$cbdb1cf0$@gmail.com> References: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> <04e101d73ba0$43f3b450$cbdb1cf0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2106986562.963680.1619560223441@mail.yahoo.com> I would think twice before Googling "French Whipping"Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: rfbegani at gmail.com To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'i erbs' ; Austin Healey list Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2021 3:02 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover #yiv8675324833 #yiv8675324833 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8675324833 #yiv8675324833 p.yiv8675324833MsoNormal, #yiv8675324833 li.yiv8675324833MsoNormal, #yiv8675324833 div.yiv8675324833MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8675324833 a:link, #yiv8675324833 span.yiv8675324833MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8675324833 span.yiv8675324833EmailStyle20 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv8675324833 .yiv8675324833MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv8675324833 div.yiv8675324833WordSection1 {}#yiv8675324833 It is called French Whipping a sailors knot.? My partner on our sailboat was bored one cold winter and covered our stainless steel wheel.? Lasted years.? I am too lazy to redo the whipping.? Looks great. ?Bob Begani ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 15:52:46 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 14:52:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <2106986562.963680.1619560223441@mail.yahoo.com> References: <00f401d73b6f$9c78cc90$d56a65b0$@sympatico.ca> <04e101d73ba0$43f3b450$cbdb1cf0$@gmail.com> <2106986562.963680.1619560223441@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Im bored right now... Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 2:50 PM wrote: > I would think twice before Googling "French Whipping" > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: rfbegani at gmail.com > To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; 'i erbs' ; Austin Healey > list > Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2021 3:02 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering wheel cover > > It is called French Whipping a sailors knot. My partner on our sailboat > was bored one cold winter and covered our stainless steel wheel. Lasted > years. I am too lazy to redo the whipping. Looks great. > > Bob Begani > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Tue Apr 27 17:32:39 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 16:32:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few miles. Just wondering... rg Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to > get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the > engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block > and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air. > > > > [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project] > > > > Harold > > > > *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys > *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM > *To: *Bob Haskell ; Healey List > > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > > > Bob: > > > > Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap > soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such > as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil > fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which I > stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the early > days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so > fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was > desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. > > > > Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed > could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no > more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride > are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. Next > time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount > of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. > > > > Bob Begani > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Bob Haskell > > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM > > To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > > > Bob, > > > > Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car > yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" > > barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a > wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. > > To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter > inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" > hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" > > hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps at > each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > > > On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > > > > > Bob: > > > > > > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > > > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > > > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? > > > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > > > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > > > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative > > > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > > > clutch dramatically. > > > > > > Bob Begani > > > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > > > Haskell > > > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM > > > *To:* Healey List > > > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > > > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > > > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the > > > PCV valve. Two questions: > > > > > > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? > > > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > > > vertical (engine side down). > > > > > > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > > > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > > > on each end? > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > Cheers, > > > Bob Haskell > > > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 18:24:30 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2021 20:24:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming out of it with engine running. How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding > in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture > from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured > the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? > Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve > regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be > interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few > miles. > Just wondering... > rg > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avg.com > > <#m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to >> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the >> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block >> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air. >> >> >> >> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project] >> >> >> >> Harold >> >> >> >> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys >> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM >> *To: *Bob Haskell ; Healey List >> >> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >> >> >> >> Bob: >> >> >> >> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap >> soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such >> as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil >> fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which I >> stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the early >> days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so >> fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was >> desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. >> >> >> >> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed >> could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no >> more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride >> are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. Next >> time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount >> of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. >> >> >> >> Bob Begani >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Bob Haskell >> >> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM >> >> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' >> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >> >> >> >> Bob, >> >> >> >> Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car >> yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" >> >> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a >> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. >> >> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter >> inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" >> hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" >> >> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps >> at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> >> Bob Haskell >> >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> >> >> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: >> >> > >> >> > Bob: >> >> > >> >> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of >> >> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose >> >> > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? >> >> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into >> >> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large >> >> > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative >> >> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the >> >> > clutch dramatically. >> >> > >> >> > Bob Begani >> >> > >> >> > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob >> >> > Haskell >> >> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM >> >> > *To:* Healey List >> >> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation >> >> > >> >> > Listers, >> >> > >> >> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm >> >> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) >> >> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the >> >> > PCV valve. Two questions: >> >> > >> >> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? >> >> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys >> >> > vertical (engine side down). >> >> > >> >> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV >> >> > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters >> >> > on each end? >> >> > >> >> > Thanks. >> >> > >> >> > Cheers, >> >> > Bob Haskell >> >> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Apr 27 18:27:48 2021 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 00:27:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have to agree. Mike Lempert has the answer... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bluehealey via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 1:37 PM To: HealeyRick via Healeys ; Autox Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears Whilst mentioning pet irritations. Mine is the fitting of MGB wood rim steering wheels to Big Healeys. The spoke orientation of 180/90/90 perfectly hides the instruments and just looks soooo dumb. Gerry Coker designed and built a wood rim wheel for the 100S, at the request of DMH, with spokes at 60/60/60. The standard ?banjo? wheel fitted to all Big Healeys has the same orientation with one spoke vertical splitting the two main instruments. Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim wheel and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!! Alan - from my iPad Bluehealey.com > On 27 Apr 2021, at 11:50, HealeyRick via Healeys wrote: > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Apr 27 19:21:03 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 01:21:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve Message-ID: This all sounds good, but I'm concerned about sludge build up...I remember my '55 Ford with added rubber plug to the vent & adapted PCV and takeoff on air cleaner. Under the rockers was a gooey mess after some miles. I kinda like my Type 3 system as original on my BJ Healey and the rocker shaft and rockers are clean not a sticky mess. Sure it drips some oil from the bell, but don't all us oldies drip something? Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Roger Grace via Healeys" To: "Harold Manifold" Cc: "Healey List" Sent: Tuesday April 27 2021 4:34:02PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few miles. Just wondering... rg [1] Virus-free. www.avg.com [2] [3] On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote: The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air. Harold FROM: Bob Begani via Healeys SENT: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM TO: Bob Haskell; Healey List SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Bob: Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Bob, Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Bob: > > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > clutch dramatically. > > Bob Begani > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Haskell > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > Listers, > > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the > PCV valve. Two questions: > > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > vertical (engine side down). > > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > on each end? > > Thanks. > > Cheers, > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [4]http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [6]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] [8]http://autox.team.net/archive [9] Healeys at autox.team.net [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] Unsubscribe/Manage: [12]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net [13] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [14]http://www.team.net/donate.html [15] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [16]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] [18]http://autox.team.net/archive [19] Healeys at autox.team.net [20]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [21] Unsubscribe/Manage: [22]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net [23] Links: ------ [1] http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail [2] http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail [3] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2 [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/donate.html [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/archive [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net [13] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net [14] http://www.team.net/donate.html [15] http://www.team.net/donate.html [16] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [18] http://autox.team.net/archive [19] http://autox.team.net/archive [20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [21] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [22] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net [23] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Apr 27 19:57:25 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 01:57:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: <806177912.1983340.1619574945630@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> <806177912.1983340.1619574945630@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <935297734.1948483.1619575045463@mail.yahoo.com> Listers / Michael -----Original Message----- From: healeyguy at aol.com To: michael.oritt at gmail.com Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2021 9:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation The 100 uses what US? built vehicles called a draft tube, Austin called them a .crankcase vent pipeForward movement of the car produces air flow over the open pipe tip which is positioned near the bottom of the frame.??This pulls (sucks) vapor from the lifter cover interior area of the engine.?P -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt via Healeys To: Roger Grace Cc: Healey List Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2021 8:24 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming out of it with?engine?running.How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys wrote: I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few miles. Just wondering...rg | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote: The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air.??Harold?From: Bob Begani via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM To: Bob Haskell; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation?Bob:?Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap soldered.? No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such as the valve cover?? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has? a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad.? The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase.? ?Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed could comment on the operation.? Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath.? Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases.? If it does I may seal vent to see what happens.?Bob Begani?-----Original Message-----From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PMTo: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation?Bob,?Thanks for the info.? I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.? I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.? 3/8" hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.? Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap.?Cheers,?Bob HaskellAustin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar?On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:>?> Bob:>?> I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > into it with a hose clamp.??? Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ??> brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > opening for the brake booster.? No leakage and strong negative > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > clutch dramatically.>?> Bob Begani>?> *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Haskell> *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM> *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation>?> Listers,>?> Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).? Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.? 3/8" hose to the > PCV valve.? Two questions:>?> 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > vertical (engine side down).>?> 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > valve is 1/2".? Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > on each end?>?> Thanks.>?> Cheers,> Bob Haskell> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar??_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75?Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive?Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 04:22:07 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 06:22:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Alan, I can't believe the other mark of the Healey rube I forgot. The fitting of the standard steering wheel with the spokes oriented upside down. Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 9:39 AM Bluehealey via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Whilst mentioning pet irritations. > Mine is the fitting of MGB wood rim steering wheels to Big Healeys. The > spoke orientation of 180/90/90 perfectly hides the instruments and just > looks soooo dumb. > Gerry Coker designed and built a wood rim wheel for the 100S, at the > request of DMH, with spokes at 60/60/60. The standard ?banjo? wheel fitted > to all Big Healeys has the same orientation with one spoke vertical > splitting the two main instruments. > Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim wheel > and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!! > > Alan - from my iPad > Bluehealey.com > > > On 27 Apr 2021, at 11:50, HealeyRick via Healeys > wrote: > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 08:43:00 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 07:43:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1664c7c4-c85e-7b53-777d-20feb4174427@comcast.net> Like this? I read somewhere the original wood rim wheels were made with obeechi wood, which has since become extinct. Have also read they were made with marine plywood; anyone know for sure? I have one on my BJ8 that I think is one of the original 'Derrington' style, though I don't know the maker. Bob On 4/27/2021 5:27 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys wrote: > Have to agree. Mike Lempert has the answer... > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > Bluehealey via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 27, 2021 1:37 PM > *To:* HealeyRick via Healeys ; Autox Healeys > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Removing Fender Spears > Whilst mentioning pet irritations. > Mine is the fitting of MGB wood rim steering wheels to Big Healeys. > The spoke orientation of 180/90/90 perfectly hides the instruments and > just looks soooo dumb. > Gerry Coker designed and built a wood rim wheel for the 100S, at the > request of DMH, with spokes at 60/60/60. The standard ?banjo? wheel > fitted to all Big Healeys has the same orientation with one spoke > vertical splitting the two main instruments. > Why, why, why go to the trouble and cost of changing to a wood rim > wheel and fit an MGB wheel? Sheeesh!! > > Alan - from my iPad > Bluehealey.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1119.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 96516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 08:47:36 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 07:47:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <33329426-2817-efc9-6485-612a380af2f0@comcast.net> I put many miles--well over 100K--on my Nock PCV setup before upgrading. There was no sludge at all, and the head looked normal (I expected some carbon buildup on the rear cylinders). On 4/27/2021 6:21 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote: > This all sounds good, but I'm concerned about sludge build up...I > remember my '55 Ford with added rubber plug to the vent & adapted PCV > and takeoff on air cleaner. Under the rockers was a gooey mess after > some miles. I kinda like my Type 3 system as original on my BJ Healey > and the rocker shaft and rockers are clean not a sticky mess. Sure it > drips some oil from the bell, but don't all us oldies drip something? Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Roger Grace via Healeys" > To: "Harold Manifold" > Cc: "Healey List" > Sent: Tuesday April 27 2021 4:34:02PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum > holding in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and > moisture from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has > actually measured the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of > all the orifices ? Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what > does the PCV valve regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at > idle. Would also be interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum > inlet pipe after a few miles. > Just wondering... > rg > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys > wrote: > > The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh > air to get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight > vacuum inside the engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate > in the bottom of the block and contaminate the engine oil should > be replaced with clear air. > > Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project > > Harold > > *From:* Bob Begani via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM > *To:* Bob Haskell; Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation > > Bob: > > Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil > fill cap soldered.? No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no > breather inlets such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did > not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover > has? a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m > sanding pad.? The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves > on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air > could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was > desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. > > Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system > sealed could comment on the operation.? Currently on regular > 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell > housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of > a quarter in the can underneath.? Next time travel on I-75 for 50 > miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases.? > If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. > > Bob Begani > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cyl Head.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1107298 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 09:48:21 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels Message-ID: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> ?Team Here are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike Lempert (https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels). The first is a Derrington style wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel core. It is slightly heavier (and costlier) than it would be with the more usual alloy core but it results in a lovely rigid wheel with very little flex. The second image is of a wood rim banjo with a Nardi style inlay, again produced by Mike. It is reduced to 15? diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut ends of the spokes. There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s sense of commitment and integrity. Mike produced a banjo wheel for me around 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story of a 3000 that had runaway down hill and was brought to a stop when a front wheel contacted the kerb and immediately flew to full steering lock. The acceleration and sudden stop of the steering wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose from the spokes. Mike contacted me and asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He wanted to remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the core ring to the spokes. The result is the Nardi style wheel you see attached. Mike is an artist, a genius in the history and production techniques of classic steering wheels and an absolute gentleman. Alan - from my iPad Alan - from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Derrington.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1607729 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: LempertBanjo.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1607941 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rmemler at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 10:10:24 2021 From: rmemler at gmail.com (Robert Memler) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 12:10:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Block Message-ID: Does anyone have a 3000 mk1 block for sale? If so please let me know by email. It is for a friend with a cracked block. TIA, Bob Memler -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 10:27:17 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 12:27:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause Message-ID: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> Listeners: It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what he did find. I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox was removed, quite easy but heavy. What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John had done to solve the oil leaks forever. The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC system has greatly reduced the volume. . Comments? Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CCF rear mounting plate gasket04282021_00000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 466130 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 12:02:58 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 14:02:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: <018601d73c51$75f8dbe0$61ea93a0$@sympatico.ca> References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> <018601d73c51$75f8dbe0$61ea93a0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <073101d73c58$b8eb3590$2ac1a0b0$@gmail.com> Merk: If the engine had the new modified seal installed, it was removed and was dry, then from where does the oil come that is entering the bell housing. It must be coming from above the crankshaft. Where is the leak is the question? Maybe that tiny little gasket material going around the engine plate is not sufficient? Bob From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2021 1:11 PM To: rfbegani at gmail.com Subject: RE: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause Bob, My understanding is that they are two different things, the rear main oil seal kit is one thing and the gasket for the rear plate is another. I would not expect the MOSS kit would not have the rear plate gasket. The parts diagrams shows there is only one gasket between the block and the rear engine plate. I do not think there is any additional gasket for a "cam drain". Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of rfbegani at gmail.com Sent: April 28, 2021 12:27 PM To: Austin Healey list >; 'John and Kerry Rowe' >; 'David Nock' > Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause Listeners: It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what he did find. I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox was removed, quite easy but heavy. What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John had done to solve the oil leaks forever. The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC system has greatly reduced the volume. . Comments? Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Wed Apr 28 12:03:22 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 18:03:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing References: <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074@mail.yahoo.com> Is there a good diagram/photo/description available of the 100 temp gage sensor routing including location of mounting clips & where it passes thru the firewall, etc.?Gary Hodson? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 12:05:23 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 14:05:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> Message-ID: The Moss rear gasket, which based upon the packaging is a Payen kit, seems to fulfil the requirement of sealing around the back end of the cam. [image: image.png] I can't believe that John actually entirely missed installing the back plate gasket so I don't really understand the issue. M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 12:27 PM wrote: > Listeners: > > > > It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting > Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of > the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the > rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of > living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the > trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what > he did find. > > > > > > I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak > since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed > flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks > were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of > the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should > have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had > used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I > made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks > problem > > Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The > remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to > drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. > > It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put > permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the > camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox > was removed, quite easy but heavy. > > > > > > What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the > rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are > missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? > Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? > Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John > had done to solve the oil leaks forever. > > > > The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the > trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do > something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC > system has greatly reduced the volume. > > . > > Comments? > > > > Bob Begani > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1803062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 12:05:44 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 11:05:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Block In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Robert, Give me a call, I may have what your friend needs. Cheers Curt Arndt (760) 458-1926 On Wed, Apr 28, 2021, 09:12 Robert Memler via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Does anyone have a 3000 mk1 block for sale? If so please let me know by > email. It is for a friend with a cracked block. > TIA, Bob Memler > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 13:03:22 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 15:03:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <078301d73c61$2970c6b0$7c525410$@gmail.com> Mike: Thanks for the actual picture with the gasket. My friend George assembled the engine for me. He has experience on engines, is a machinist/rigger and would not have assembled the back plate without the gasket. Also, he drilled and tapped the screws to hold the modified crank seal. So why is there such a large amount of oil coming into my bell housing. Maybe George and I will not know ourselves until next fall. Meanwhile, I am asking everyone ideas on why and where is the oil coming out so strongly? Is a thicker gasket material needed? Is there anyone else who has experienced the oil leaks and gone back in to find out why? Bob From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2021 2:05 PM To: Robert Begani Cc: Austin Healey list ; John and Kerry Rowe ; David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause The Moss rear gasket, which based upon the packaging is a Payen kit, seems to fulfil the requirement of sealing around the back end of the cam. I can't believe that John actually entirely missed installing the back plate gasket so I don't really understand the issue. M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 12:27 PM > wrote: Listeners: It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what he did find. I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox was removed, quite easy but heavy. What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John had done to solve the oil leaks forever. The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC system has greatly reduced the volume. . Comments? Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 1803062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Apr 28 13:15:05 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 15:15:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <01a301d73c62$cc3c89a0$64b59ce0$@sympatico.ca> Mike, Just for clarity, when you talk about the ?Moss rear gasket ? is a Payen kit? I think you are referring to the bottom-end gasket set, not the oil seal conversion kit ? right? I guess what I am asking in too many words is whether the rear engine plate gasket you illustrated in the phots comes with the oil conversion kit ? I didn?t think so. That may not resolve Bob?s question about how oil is getting into his bell housing, but I was trying to make the point that they are two separate things ? the conversion kit and the rear plate gasket. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: April 28, 2021 2:05 PM To: Robert Begani Cc: Austin Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause The Moss rear gasket, which based upon the packaging is a Payen kit, seems to fulfil the requirement of sealing around the back end of the cam. I can't believe that John actually entirely missed installing the back plate gasket so I don't really understand the issue. M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 12:27 PM > wrote: Listeners: It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what he did find. I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox was removed, quite easy but heavy. What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John had done to solve the oil leaks forever. The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC system has greatly reduced the volume. . Comments? Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 1803062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 14:45:19 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:45:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing In-Reply-To: <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: These may help Gary, They are from B.#1267. On earlier cars the capillary shared a grommet with the oil pressure tube but this seems to have been discontinued around B.#400 [image: image.png] [image: image.png] [image: image.png] [image: image.png] [image: image.png] [image: image.png] M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:14 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Is there a good diagram/photo/description available of the 100 temp gage > sensor routing including location of mounting clips & where it passes thru > the firewall, etc.? > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 610732 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 14:52:06 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:52:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?" That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with an "O" ring on it. [image: image.png] Stay tuned for results :-) M On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they > have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming > out of it with engine running. > How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system > such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the > vacuum sought? > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding >> in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture >> from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured >> the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? >> Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve >> regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be >> interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few >> miles. >> Just wondering... >> rg >> >> >> >> >> Virus-free. >> www.avg.com >> >> <#m_3004266338563420122_m_-5118384287329560660_m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >> >> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to >>> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the >>> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block >>> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air. >>> >>> >>> >>> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project] >>> >>> >>> >>> Harold >>> >>> >>> >>> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys >>> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM >>> *To: *Bob Haskell ; Healey List >>> >>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob: >>> >>> >>> >>> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill >>> cap soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets >>> such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the >>> oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which >>> I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the >>> early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather >>> so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it >>> was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. >>> >>> >>> >>> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system >>> sealed could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives >>> at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the >>> ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. >>> Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the >>> amount of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob Begani >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> >>> From: Bob Haskell >>> >>> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM >>> >>> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' >>> >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob, >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the >>> car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" >>> >>> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a >>> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. >>> >>> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter >>> inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" >>> hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. 3/8" >>> >>> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps >>> at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>> >>> >>> >>> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Bob: >>> >>> > >>> >>> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of >>> >>> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose >>> >>> > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? >>> >>> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into >>> >>> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large >>> >>> > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative >>> >>> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the >>> >>> > clutch dramatically. >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Bob Begani >>> >>> > >>> >>> > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob >>> >>> > Haskell >>> >>> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM >>> >>> > *To:* Healey List >>> >>> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Listers, >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm >>> >>> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) >>> >>> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the >>> >>> > PCV valve. Two questions: >>> >>> > >>> >>> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? >>> >>> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys >>> >>> > vertical (engine side down). >>> >>> > >>> >>> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV >>> >>> > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters >>> >>> > on each end? >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Thanks. >>> >>> > >>> >>> > Cheers, >>> >>> > Bob Haskell >>> >>> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 188093 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 15:00:57 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 17:00:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: <01a301d73c62$cc3c89a0$64b59ce0$@sympatico.ca> References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> <01a301d73c62$cc3c89a0$64b59ce0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Yes Mirek, the gasket shown is part of the "conversion" or "lower" engine set. The oil seal housing used with the lip seal set does not come with a gasket but Moss supplies a tube of Hylomar to be used to seal between the seal housing and the block face. When I have done these conversions in the past I actually cut a thin paper gasket to use there as I have never been a big fan of "gaskets in a tube". M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 3:15 PM wrote: > Mike, > > > > Just for clarity, when you talk about the ?Moss rear gasket ? is a Payen > kit? I think you are referring to the bottom-end gasket set, not the oil > seal conversion kit ? right? I guess what I am asking in too many words is > whether the rear engine plate gasket you illustrated in the phots comes > with the oil conversion kit ? I didn?t think so. > > > > That may not resolve Bob?s question about how oil is getting into his bell > housing, but I was trying to make the point that they are two separate > things ? the conversion kit and the rear plate gasket. > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* April 28, 2021 2:05 PM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Cc:* Austin Healey list > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal > and the new seal are not the cause > > > > The Moss rear gasket, which based upon the packaging is a Payen kit, seems > to fulfil the requirement of sealing around the back end of the cam. > > I can't believe that John actually entirely missed installing the back > plate gasket so I don't really understand the issue. > > > > M > > > > > > > > On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 12:27 PM wrote: > > Listeners: > > > > It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear Mounting > Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the oil back of > the camshaft drain. Now I am not knowledgeable on the conditions of the > rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe after 10 years of > living with oil leaks even with the modified seal installed, removed the > trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found it dry. Let us review what > he did find. > > > > > > I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil leak > since. After finally removing the gearbox for repair last month I removed > flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the backing plate and no leaks > were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. However, the back of > the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I then noticed there should > have been a gasket according to the books, which mine did not have. I had > used a silicone gasket maker in that area and that failed (didn't work). I > made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) gasket and now think I have solved the leaks > problem > > Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. The > remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs down to > drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. > > It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put > permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the > camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the gearbox > was removed, quite easy but heavy. > > > > > > What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, the > rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket. Is there are > missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the area? > Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more coverage? > Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct gasket as John > had done to solve the oil leaks forever. > > > > The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove the > trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared to do > something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the installation of PVC > system has greatly reduced the volume. > > . > > Comments? > > > > Bob Begani > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 1803062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Wed Apr 28 15:16:03 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 21:16:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing Message-ID: <5415dd8e820eac460fd4a433da965bdab83105fc@webmail> Gary-additionally, here is the routing from the firewall exit over to the fender area...again on early car #588, but I looked on 100S and it is the same routing. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday April 28 2021 1:55:51PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing These may help Gary, They are from B.#1267. On earlier cars the capillary shared a grommet with the oil pressure tube but this seems to have been discontinued around B.#400 M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:14 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: Is there a good diagram/photo/description available of the 100 temp gage sensor routing including location of mounting clips & where it passes thru the firewall, etc.? Gary Hodson _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [10] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: painted-engine bay.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 115028 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 15:33:35 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 17:33:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: Michael-- As I suspected. Why then doesn't the 100's stock vent tube setup serve as a sort of PCV valve in that it lowers crankcase pressures though it does not recirculate gasses into the engine versus the environment? How different in effect is the venting of positive pressure to the atmosphere versus negative pressure created by the PCV circuit? Wouldn't the vent tube's being open to atmosphere decrease the chance of blow-by out the rear of the engineer into the bell housing? Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:52 PM Michael Salter wrote: > "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?" > That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with an > "O" ring on it. > [image: image.png] > > Stay tuned for results :-) > > M > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they >> have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming >> out of it with engine running. >> How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system >> such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the >> vacuum sought? >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> >> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding >>> in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture >>> from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured >>> the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? >>> Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve >>> regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be >>> interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few >>> miles. >>> Just wondering... >>> rg >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Virus-free. >>> www.avg.com >>> >>> <#m_-1354533715998493471_m_3004266338563420122_m_-5118384287329560660_m_-7555776291443713774_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>> >>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys < >>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>>> The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to >>>> get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the >>>> engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block >>>> and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> [image: Foxbody PCV Valve Replacement ? Fox Body Project] >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Harold >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From: *Bob Begani via Healeys >>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM >>>> *To: *Bob Haskell ; Healey List >>>> >>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill >>>> cap soldered. No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets >>>> such as the valve cover? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the >>>> oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has a vent on the side into which >>>> I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad. The reason was that in the >>>> early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather >>>> so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it >>>> was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system >>>> sealed could comment on the operation. Currently on regular 25-mile drives >>>> at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the >>>> ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath. >>>> Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the >>>> amount of oil increases. If it does I may seal vent to see what happens. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob Begani >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> >>>> From: Bob Haskell >>>> >>>> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PM >>>> >>>> To: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' >>>> >>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob, >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks for the info. I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the >>>> car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it. I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" >>>> >>>> barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a >>>> wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. >>>> >>>> To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" >>>> diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD >>>> of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement. >>>> 3/8" >>>> >>>> hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting. Added hose clamps >>>> at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Bob Haskell >>>> >>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Bob: >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece >>>> of >>>> >>>> > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose >>>> >>>> > into it with a hose clamp. Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ?? >>>> >>>> > brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into >>>> >>>> > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large >>>> >>>> > opening for the brake booster. No leakage and strong negative >>>> >>>> > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the >>>> >>>> > clutch dramatically. >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Bob Begani >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob >>>> >>>> > Haskell >>>> >>>> > *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM >>>> >>>> > *To:* Healey List >>>> >>>> > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Listers, >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm >>>> >>>> > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98). Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) >>>> >>>> > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold. 3/8" hose to the >>>> >>>> > PCV valve. Two questions: >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? >>>> >>>> > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on >>>> non-Healeys >>>> >>>> > vertical (engine side down). >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV >>>> >>>> > valve is 1/2". Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters >>>> >>>> > on each end? >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Thanks. >>>> >>>> > >>>> >>>> > Cheers, >>>> >>>> > Bob Haskell >>>> >>>> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 188093 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Apr 28 16:13:53 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 22:13:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] PCV valve installation In-Reply-To: References: <2466293d-e934-42e2-5139-77ed7cbc2b38@earthlink.net> <025b01d73ae7$a2388b30$e6a9a190$@gmail.com> <039901d73b66$16534d60$42f9e820$@gmail.com> <421756C2-74C3-4104-AAFF-672CE8EFDB30@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <746283096.2333706.1619648033186@mail.yahoo.com> As mentioned in an earlier email , the stock 100 setup does vent the internal crankcase areas to the atmosphere but only when the car is moving forward. On many early cars the draft tube was the solution. Some cars even had enough engine compartment air movement via the rad fan to activate the process..? The 100 did not have a lot of CFM from the stock fan.The draft tube does make a "negative pressure" at the tip as the air moves under it thus reducing crankcase pressure but when you slow down or stop in traffic that negative pressure goes away. Using manifold pressure was a better solution to meet the early pollution control regulations.? P?? -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt via Healeys To: Michael Salter Cc: Healey List Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2021 5:33 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation Michael-- As I suspected. Why then doesn't the 100's stock vent tube setup serve as a sort of PCV valve in that it lowers crankcase pressures though it does not recirculate gasses into the engine versus the environment?? How different in effect is the venting of positive pressure to the atmosphere versus negative pressure created by the PCV circuit?? Wouldn't the vent tube's being open to atmosphere decrease the chance of blow-by out the rear of the engineer?into the bell housing? Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:52 PM Michael Salter wrote: "must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought?"That's what I did on my yet to be tested system using a brass plug with an "O" ring on it. Stay tuned for results :-) M On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:25 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote: Though I am not that familiar with Healey 6 engines I do not believe they have the block vent pipe fitted to 100's which has positive pressure coming out of it with?engine?running.How does the presence of such a pipe affect the design of a PCV system such as that illustrated--must it be blocked off in order to create the vacuum sought? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 7:33 PM Roger Grace via Healeys wrote: I am with Harold on this one. In theory, with substantial vacuum holding in the CC you would not move any of the accumulated gasses and moisture from the CC. Would be interested to hear if anyone has actually measured the CC vacuum after the plugging and soldering of all the orifices ? Particularly at idle when the vacuum is high - what does the PCV valve regulate it to ? My car is about 17/18 ins Hg at idle. Would also be interesting to look for oil at the system vacuum inlet pipe after a few miles. Just wondering...rg | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 8:42 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys wrote: The V in PCV is for ventilation. There should be a way for fresh air to get into the engine. In addition to creating a slight vacuum inside the engine ideally the blow by gases that accumulate in the bottom of the block and contaminate the engine oil should be replaced with clear air.??Harold?From: Bob Begani via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 6:06 AM To: Bob Haskell; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation?Bob:?Let me know how your installation works with the hole in the oil fill cap soldered.? No doubt, the rest of the engine is has no breather inlets such as the valve cover?? The reason I ask is I did not solder or seal the oil fill cap and my aluminum valve cover has? a vent on the side into which I stuffed a piece of oiled 3m sanding pad.? The reason was that in the early days of PCV valves on engines the car makers were creating a breather so fresh air could circulate in the engine and some articles indicated it was desirable to keep air flowing to the crankcase.? ?Maybe some of the other listeners who have been using a PVC system sealed could comment on the operation.? Currently on regular 25-mile drives at no more than 60 mph the drips under the bell housing weep hole after the ride are limited to a spot the size of a quarter in the can underneath.? Next time travel on I-75 for 50 miles at higher speeds I will see if the amount of oil increases.? If it does I may seal vent to see what happens.?Bob Begani?-----Original Message-----From: Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, April 26, 2021 8:23 PMTo: rfbegani at gmail.com; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] PCV valve installation?Bob,?Thanks for the info.? I've got mine installed, but haven't driven the car yet - rebuilding a LCS pump for it.? I machined a 5/8"-20 - 3/8" barb fitting to screw into the front manifold. Added six flats for a wrench - Whitworth so I can be annoyed with myself at some future date. To go from the 5/8" diameter on the valve cover tee to the 1/2" diameter inlet on the PCV valve, I shaved the ID of a 5/8" hose and the OD of a 1/2" hose on the lathe and glued them together with rubber cement.? 3/8" hose connects the PVC valve to the manifold fitting.? Added hose clamps at each connection and soldered the hole in the oil fill cap.?Cheers,?Bob HaskellAustin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar?On 4/26/21 6:00 PM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:>?> Bob:>?> I have completed the PCV valve installation by using a 3 inch piece of > the 5/8? hose on the manifold side and inserting a 5/16 ? heater hose > into it with a hose clamp.??? Then the 5/16? hose attaches a 1/8? x ??> brass fitting with a hose clamp from the parts store I installed into > the small opening on the intake manifold to the right of the large > opening for the brake booster.? No leakage and strong negative > pressure have reduced my oil leaks into the bell housing and the > clutch dramatically.>?> Bob Begani>?> *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Haskell> *Sent:* Friday, April 9, 2021 3:10 PM> *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] PCV valve installation>?> Listers,>?> Attempting to install a PCV valve on our tri-carb engine per Norm > Nock's Tech Tip (page 98).? Made an adapter (5/8"-18 to 3/8" barb) > that replaces the plug in the front inlet manifold.? 3/8" hose to the > PCV valve.? Two questions:>?> 1) Does the PCV valve need to be orientated in a particular way? > Norm's diagram shows it horizontal and I have seen them on non-Healeys > vertical (engine side down).>?> 2) The valve cover tee is 5/8" diameter, the engine side of the PCV > valve is 1/2".? Anyone know of a short hose with different diameters > on each end?>?> Thanks.>?> Cheers,> Bob Haskell> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar??_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75?Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive?Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 188093 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2324622E2F644F44A27CE63311F4D16B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 67791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Apr 28 16:26:16 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 18:26:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More follow up on the ethanal/gasoline subject In-Reply-To: <1740170262.2327236.1619643095607@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1740170262.2327236.1619643095607.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1740170262.2327236.1619643095607@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01d201d73c7d$817f9680$847ec380$@sympatico.ca> Thanks Mike, that link is very useful and through it I discovered that at least in Ontario (Canada) the hi-octane Shell gas is 100% ethanol-free. That is all I use for my bikes and old cars now. Mirek From: Mike McNeely Sent: April 28, 2021 4:52 PM Subject: More follow up on the ethanal/gasoline subject Hello everyone! If you were a participant in our last Zoom Meeting you would have heard the conversation about best motor oil choices, oils that contain ZDDP and the impact of ethanol on our Austin Healey cars. If you were not 'at' the meeting, you really missed out on some great discussion and follow up. I promise you another great topic and discussion at the next meeting scheduled for May 12th at 7:30 pm. NOW, ABOUT THAT PESKY ETHANOL. Here is a web address that lists all fuel outlets in North America that offer ethanol free gasoline. You can add an App to your cell phone to check the list at anytime. Do the following- Go to the pure-gas.org website, or paste this address into your browser, Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada (pure-gas.org) All the best to you! Mike McNeely -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 5441 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 16:26:17 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 15:26:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels In-Reply-To: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> References: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> Message-ID: <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> Here is another Lempert wheel shown on my BN1. It will lose me a few points on a Concours inspection but I don't care. I think it is the most beautiful wheel. -Roland On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100, you wrote: >?TeamHere are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike Lempert (https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels).The first is a Derrington style wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel core. It is slightly heavier (and costlier) than it would be with the more usual alloy core but it results in a lovely rigid wheel with very little flex.The second image is of a wood rim banjo with a Nardi style inlay, again produced by Mike. It is reduced to 15? diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut ends of the spokes. There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s sense of commitment and integrity.Mike produced a banjo wheel for me around 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story of a 3000 that had runaway down hill and was brought to a stop when a front wheel contacted the kerb and immediately flew to full steering lock. The acceleration and sudden stop of the steering wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose from the spokes. Mike contacted me and >asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He wanted to remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the core ring to the spokes.The result is the Nardi style wheel you see attached. Mike is an artist, a genius in the history and production techniques of classic steering wheels and an absolute gentleman. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lempert One.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2558704 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: lempert two.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2766816 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Wed Apr 28 18:51:07 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 00:51:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing In-Reply-To: References: <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2014106463.1206174.1619633002074@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <162010743.1331371.1619657468744@mail.yahoo.com> Michael,Thanks, that is a big help.Gary -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2021 3:45 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water temp gage sensor routing These may help Gary,They are from B.#1267.On earlier cars the capillary shared a grommet with the oil pressure tube but this seems to have been discontinued around B.#400 M On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:14 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: Is there a good diagram/photo/description available of the 100 temp gage sensor routing including location of mounting clips & where it passes thru the firewall, etc.?Gary Hodson?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 610732 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 22:13:31 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2021 21:13:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal and the new seal are not the cause In-Reply-To: <073101d73c58$b8eb3590$2ac1a0b0$@gmail.com> References: <06ee01d73c4b$5ba62d70$12f28850$@gmail.com> <018601d73c51$75f8dbe0$61ea93a0$@sympatico.ca> <073101d73c58$b8eb3590$2ac1a0b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: A worn/defective/brittle front gearbox seal--in cars that have them--will contribute oil in the bellhousing. We tore down our BN2's engine when it peed a puddle, installed a rear main seal and then discovered the oil probably came from a gearbox seal that all but fell apart in my hand. On 4/28/2021 11:02 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote: > > Merk: > > If the engine had the new modified seal installed, ?it was removed and > was dry, then from where does the oil come that is entering the bell > housing.? It must be coming from above the crankshaft.? ?Where is the > leak is the question? Maybe that tiny little gasket material going > around the engine plate is not sufficient? > > Bob > > *From:* m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 28, 2021 1:11 PM > *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank > seal and the new seal are not the cause > > Bob, My understanding is that they are two different things, the rear > main oil seal kit is one thing and the gasket for the rear plate is > another.? I would not expect the MOSS kit would not have the rear > plate gasket. > > The parts diagrams shows there is only one gasket between the block > and the rear engine plate.? I do not think there is any additional > gasket for a ?cam drain?. > > Mirek > > *From:* Healeys > *On Behalf Of > *rfbegani at gmail.com > *Sent:* April 28, 2021 12:27 PM > *To:* Austin Healey list >; 'John and Kerry Rowe' > >; 'David Nock' > > > *Subject:* [Healeys] where does the oil leak begin if the crank seal > and the new seal are not the cause > > Listeners: > > It has been explained by some members of this group that the rear > Mounting Plate Gasket in the Moss kit is not sufficient to contain the > oil back of the camshaft drain.? Now I am not knowledgeable on the > conditions of the rear mount plate and the gasket, However, John Rowe > after 10 years of living with oil leaks even with the modified seal > installed, removed the trans, flywheel, mounting plate etc, and found > it dry.? Let us review what he did find. > > I fitted the modified seal 10 years ago and have always had an oil > leak since. After finally?removing the gearbox for repair last month I > removed flywheel etc to have a look at it. I removed the?backing plate > and no leaks were identified around the seal, it was totally dry. > However, the back of the camshaft drain was a different scenario. I > then noticed there should have been a gasket according to the books, > which mine did not have. I had used a silicone gasket maker in that > area and that failed (didn't work). I made a thick 1.6mm (1/16inch) > gasket and now think I have solved the leaks problem > > Bob, The gasket I made only had a 'cutout' for the crankshaft itself. > The remainder covered the back of the camshaft opening, which runs > down to drain back into the block. It looks like an inverted teardrop. > > ?It covers the whole machined area of the rear of the block. I put > permatex sealant all over the flat machined area especially around the > camshaft opening. This was done with the engine in- situ while the > gearbox was removed, quite easy but heavy. > > What say you to those who are familiar with the rear of the engine, > the rear plate, and the overall rear mounting plate gasket.? Is there > are missing gasket in the Moss Kit? Was there ever a gasket for the > area? Should the rear plate gasket be redesigned to include more > coverage?? Should we just forget about the Moss gasket and construct > gasket as John had done to solve the oil leaks forever. > > The reason I ask this of the Group, I will next fall have to remove > the trans etc. to install a new clutch plate and want to be prepared > to do something to stop the leaking of oil even thought the > installation of PVC system has greatly reduced the volume. > > . > > Comments? > > Bob Begani > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 02:09:01 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 09:09:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels In-Reply-To: <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> References: <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> Message-ID: That is gorgeous and works well with the OEW. Alan - from my iPad > On 28 Apr 2021, at 23:26, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: > > ?Here is another Lempert wheel shown on my BN1. It will lose me a few > points on a Concours inspection but I don't care. I think it is the > most beautiful wheel. > > -Roland > >> On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100, you wrote: >> >> ?TeamHere are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike Lempert (https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels).The first is a Derrington style wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel core. It is slightly heavier (and costlier) than it would be with the more usual alloy core but it results in a lovely rigid wheel with very little flex.The second image is of a wood rim banjo with a Nardi style inlay, again produced by Mike. It is reduced to 15? diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut ends of the spokes. There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s sense of commitment and integrity.Mike produced a banjo wheel for me around 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story of a 3000 that had runaway down hill and was brought to a stop when a front wheel contacted the kerb and immediately flew to full steering lock. The acceleration and sudden stop of the steering wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose from the spokes. Mike contacted me and >> asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He wanted to remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the core ring to the spokes.The result is the Nardi style wheel you see attached. Mike is an artist, a genius in the history and production techniques of classic steering wheels and an absolute gentleman. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 05:00:48 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 07:00:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels In-Reply-To: <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> References: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> Message-ID: Beautiful wheel indeed Roland. Mike thinks me overly picky but I have suggested to him that he consider painting out (as I do) in flat black the edge of the metal core between about 340 and 020 degrees as it--the edge--reflects directly into my straight-ahead FOV. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 6:29 PM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Here is another Lempert wheel shown on my BN1. It will lose me a few > points on a Concours inspection but I don't care. I think it is the > most beautiful wheel. > > -Roland > > On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100, you wrote: > > >?TeamHere are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike Lempert ( > https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels).The first is a Derrington style > wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel core. It is slightly heavier > (and costlier) than it would be with the more usual alloy core but it > results in a lovely rigid wheel with very little flex.The second image is > of a wood rim banjo with a Nardi style inlay, again produced by Mike. It > is reduced to 15? diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut > ends of the spokes. There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s > sense of commitment and integrity.Mike produced a banjo wheel for me around > 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story of a 3000 that had > runaway down hill and was brought to a stop when a front wheel contacted > the kerb and immediately flew to full steering lock. The acceleration and > sudden stop of the steering wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose > from the spokes. Mike contacted me and > >asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He wanted to > remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the core ring to the > spokes.The result is the Nardi style wheel you see attached. Mike is an > artist, a genius in the history and production techniques of classic > steering wheels and an absolute gentleman. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 06:43:42 2021 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 08:43:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> Message-ID: Oh boy. If we're going to have a Lempert wheel show, here's mine. It's a little different as there are no rivets and the wood wraps completely around the rim. There's so many of us with Lempert wheels on our cars (for good reason) future generations will probably think they were original equipment. [image: IMG_0416_zpsbgbvwiva.JPG] On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:02 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Beautiful wheel indeed Roland. > > Mike thinks me overly picky but I have suggested to him that he consider > painting out (as I do) in flat black the edge of the metal core between > about 340 and 020 degrees as it--the edge--reflects directly into my > straight-ahead FOV. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 6:29 PM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Here is another Lempert wheel shown on my BN1. It will lose me a few >> points on a Concours inspection but I don't care. I think it is the >> most beautiful wheel. >> >> -Roland >> >> On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100, you wrote: >> >> >?TeamHere are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike Lempert ( >> https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels).The first is a Derrington style >> wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel core. It is slightly heavier >> (and costlier) than it would be with the more usual alloy core but it >> results in a lovely rigid wheel with very little flex.The second image is >> of a wood rim banjo with a Nardi style inlay, again produced by Mike. It >> is reduced to 15? diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut >> ends of the spokes. There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s >> sense of commitment and integrity.Mike produced a banjo wheel for me around >> 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story of a 3000 that had >> runaway down hill and was brought to a stop when a front wheel contacted >> the kerb and immediately flew to full steering lock. The acceleration and >> sudden stop of the steering wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose >> from the spokes. Mike contacted me and >> >asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He wanted to >> remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the core ring to the >> spokes.The result is the Nardi style wheel you see attached. Mike is an >> artist, a genius in the history and production techniques of classic >> steering wheels and an absolute gentleman. >> >> >> -- >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0416_zpsbgbvwiva.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 173445 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 29 07:04:53 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 13:04:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube References: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708@mail.yahoo.com> Listers?I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list.? Probably file size.? Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation.?Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue.? Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically? into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches? and the tissue was sucked down the tube.? The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way.?As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..."? :)P -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 08:04:25 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708@mail.yahoo.com> References: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <245042970.2483743.1619701493708@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube > works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway wanted > to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. > Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty > paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at > an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end > of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan > wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was > sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were > doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very > environmental way. > As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than > that now..." :) > P > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Apr 29 08:29:16 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:29:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More on Lempert Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <211E01B6-5975-4F9C-B7EE-BA8F902AD773@gmail.com> <12oj8g5j8c8g9d41s2fcmdn1pn6ll0115c@4ax.com> Message-ID: Michael, I did the same on my Moto-Lita wheel. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 4/29/21 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote: > Beautiful wheel indeed Roland. > > Mike thinks me overly picky but I have suggested to him that he > consider painting out (as I do) in flat black the edge of the metal > core between about 340 and 020 degrees as it--the edge--reflects > directly into my straight-ahead FOV. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 6:29 PM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys > > wrote: > > Here is another Lempert wheel shown on my BN1.? It will lose me a few > points on a Concours inspection but I don't care.? I think it is the > most beautiful wheel. > > -Roland > > On Wed, 28 Apr 2021 16:48:21 +0100, you wrote: > > >?TeamHere are a couple of wheels from the genius that is Mike > Lempert (https://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels).The > first is a > Derrington style wheel (slots not holes) with stainless steel > core. It is slightly heavier (and costlier) than it would be with > the more usual alloy core but it results in a lovely rigid wheel > with very little flex.The second image is of a wood rim banjo with > a Nardi style inlay, again produced by? Mike. It is reduced to 15? > diameter and has a steel ring core, welded to the cut ends of the > spokes.? There is a story to this wheel which attests to Mike?s > sense of commitment and integrity.Mike produced a banjo wheel for > me around 2008. Some 3 years later he contacted me with the story > of a 3000 that had runaway down hill and was brought to a stop > when a front wheel contacted the kerb and immediately flew to full > steering lock. The acceleration and sudden stop of the steering > wheel caused the steel core ring to break loose from the spokes.? > Mike contacted me and > >asked if I would return my banjo wheel as a safety recall. He > wanted to remanufacture the wheel with improved connection of the > core ring to the spokes.The result is the Nardi style wheel you > see attached. Mike is an artist, a genius in the history and > production techniques of classic steering wheels and an absolute > gentleman. > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From svilanspeter at xplornet.ca Thu Apr 29 08:46:43 2021 From: svilanspeter at xplornet.ca (Peter Svilans) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:46:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 draft tube Message-ID: <2dfb3d16624f34a26639726d9eb2eb3d@xplornet.ca> Michael, you've just sent several hundred "Bernoulli" requests to Google :-) Best, Peter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Thu Apr 29 08:56:27 2021 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 07:56:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <245042970.2483743.1619701493708@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! rg On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Listers >> I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft >> tube works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway >> wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. >> Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty >> paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at >> an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end >> of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan >> wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was >> sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were >> doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very >> environmental way. >> As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger >> than that now..." :) >> P >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 09:08:23 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 11:08:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: <245042970.2483743.1619701493708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <245042970.2483743.1619701493708@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: > Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. > Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! > rg > > > On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? >> >> M >> >> On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> Listers >>> I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft >>> tube works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway >>> wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. >>> Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty >>> paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at >>> an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end >>> of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan >>> wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was >>> sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were >>> doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very >>> environmental way. >>> As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger >>> than that now..." :) >>> P >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu Apr 29 10:05:53 2021 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 16:05:53 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube References: Message-ID: That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! We've been friends ever since. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! rg On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, wrote: Listers? I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list.? Probably file size.? Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation.? Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue.? Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically? into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches? and the tissue was sucked down the tube.? The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way.? As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..."? :) P _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Apr 29 10:14:29 2021 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 16:14:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Steven, I think in your case that was a pick-up line on her part, or perhaps the aroma of the cologne you were wearing.......... Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: April 29, 2021 11:07 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! We've been friends ever since. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, > wrote: Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! rg On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys > wrote: Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, > wrote: Listers I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way. As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..." :) P _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 29 10:36:34 2021 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 09:36:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?smell_of_old_cars?= Message-ID: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car. a young lady walked by and said something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she believed me. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Apr 29 10:40:22 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:40:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> ..old castor oil at the race track.. pure heaven.. On 4/29/2021 10:36 AM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote: > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car. a young lady walked by and said > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she believed me. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 29 10:46:36 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 16:46:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old car..? There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's.? It had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that was in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell? It wasn't common but experienced many times.?P -----Original Message----- From: Jean Caron via Healeys To: Steven Kingsbury ; Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:14 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube #yiv9992985667 #yiv9992985667 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9992985667 #yiv9992985667 p.yiv9992985667MsoNormal, #yiv9992985667 li.yiv9992985667MsoNormal, #yiv9992985667 div.yiv9992985667MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9992985667 a:link, #yiv9992985667 span.yiv9992985667MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9992985667 span.yiv9992985667body-text-content {}#yiv9992985667 .yiv9992985667MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv9992985667 div.yiv9992985667WordSection1 {}#yiv9992985667 Steven, I think in your case that was a pick-up line on her part, or perhaps the aroma of the cologne you were wearing.......... ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: April 29, 2021 11:07 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube ? That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! We've been friends ever since. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! ? M ? On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! rg ? ? On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? ? M ? On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, wrote: Listers? I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list.? Probably file size.? Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation.? Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue.? Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically? into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches? and the tissue was sucked down the tube.? The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way.? As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..."? :) P _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 29 10:48:06 2021 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 16:48:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: <1628604766.2379874.1619714886480@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Dave.? That was the oil I was thinking of, Castor Oil.? -----Original Message----- From: David P via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:40 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] smell of old cars ..old castor oil at the race track.. pure heaven.. On 4/29/2021 10:36 AM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote: > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car.? a young lady walked by and said > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled.? i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust.? i don't think she believed me. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 10:49:26 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:49:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old > car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's. It > had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. > As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that was > in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It wasn't common but > experienced many times. > P > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jean Caron via Healeys > To: Steven Kingsbury ; Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:14 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube > > Steven, > I think in your case that was a pick-up line on her part, or perhaps the > aroma of the cologne you were wearing.......... > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Steven Kingsbury via Healeys > *Sent: *April 29, 2021 11:07 AM > *To: *Michael Salter > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube > > That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small > mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me > and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this > is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! > We've been friends ever since. > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the > smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them > .... they stink!! > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, > wrote: > > Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. > Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! > rg > > > On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Listers > I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube > works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway wanted > to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. > Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty > paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at > an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end > of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan > wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was > sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were > doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very > environmental way. > As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than > that now..." :) > P > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 29 10:54:49 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:54:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <029401d73d18$5e51d650$1af582f0$@sympatico.ca> Before the lockdown, I occasionally went with a friend to the ? mile dirt track at Welland, ON to watch motorcycle racing. It is a real old-school place which I enjoy. The have a class for JAP Speedway racers that all run bean oil and blue smoke wafts across the stands during their race. Some people breath deep ? others turn green. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: April 29, 2021 12:49 PM To: Perry & Kimberly Small Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, > wrote: Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's. It had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that was in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It wasn't common but experienced many times. P -----Original Message----- From: Jean Caron via Healeys > To: Steven Kingsbury >; Michael Salter > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:14 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube Steven, I think in your case that was a pick-up line on her part, or perhaps the aroma of the cologne you were wearing.......... Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: April 29, 2021 11:07 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! We've been friends ever since. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys > wrote: The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, > wrote: Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! rg On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys > wrote: Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? M On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, > wrote: Listers I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way. As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..." :) P _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 10:55:26 2021 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 17:55:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <1628604766.2379874.1619714886480@mail.yahoo.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> <1628604766.2379874.1619714886480@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: In Europe it was Castrol R. The brand was Castrol and R stood for racing. Wonderful fragrance. I was so enthralled with it that I mixed it with petrol/gas to run my two stroke Vespa scooter. Didn?t go any faster but sure smelt good - although I don?t recall it attracting any girls, pretty or otherwise! Neil On Thu, 29 Apr 2021 at 17:49, healeyguy--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thanks Dave. That was the oil I was thinking of, Castor Oil. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David P via Healeys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:40 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] smell of old cars > > ..old castor oil at the race track.. pure heaven.. > > > On 4/29/2021 10:36 AM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote: > > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had > just started my car. a young lady walked by and said > > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars > used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think > she believed me. > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > . > 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/nmcd10 at gmail.com > > -- Neil & Pam McDonald -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 29 10:55:50 2021 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:55:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <029901d73d18$82854340$878fc9c0$@sympatico.ca> Last summer when I pulled up to a stop light in my BT7, a car pulled up beside me and an irate drive yelled at me to get that "piece of polluting crap" off the road. Unfortunately I was hemmed in and could not manage to pull in front of him again to see if I could get him to really blow a gasket. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of healeymanjim via Healeys Sent: April 29, 2021 12:37 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car. a young lady walked by and said something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she believed me. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 11:03:56 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:03:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <6241ccb0-9254-c2be-516e-a77e77e1df03@comcast.net> If you'd started your car with any choke, it would smell much worse than when warmed-up and running at speed. If not, you're probably running a tad too rich. Her comment was likely a back-handed "You should get rid of that old gross polluter, asshole" (I've gotten a couple of those over the years). Being the rude SOB that I am, I probably would have said "You don't smell so good yourself." Bob On 4/29/2021 9:36 AM, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote: > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car. a young lady walked by and said > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she believed me. > > From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 11:29:05 2021 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 18:29:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <567C7708-65E5-4E76-B420-61881B189B25@gmail.com> Oh yes. I have a quart on the shelf and dose the ride-on mower with it (tsp/gall). Love it. Alan - from my iPad > On 29 Apr 2021, at 17:50, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. > >> On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, wrote: >> Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's. It had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that was in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It wasn't common but experienced many times. >> P >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Jean Caron via Healeys >> To: Steven Kingsbury ; Michael Salter >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:14 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube >> >> Steven, >> I think in your case that was a pick-up line on her part, or perhaps the aroma of the cologne you were wearing.......... >> >> Jean >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys >> Sent: April 29, 2021 11:07 AM >> To: Michael Salter >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube >> >> That's a matter of opinion! At a car show once, I met a lady with a small mouth TR3 and we decided to go get a drink. She said she would follow me and once we got to our destination and parked, she came up and said "this is going to sound odd, but I love the smell of driving behind old cars"! We've been friends ever since. >> Steven Kingsbury >> BN1 >> >> On April 29, 2021 at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: >> The problem with such "Road tubes" as they were called in my day is the smell. I'm old enough to remember what it was like to follow cars with them .... they stink!! >> >> M >> >> On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 10:56 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: >> Yes, this is how I vent my BJ8. >> Never thought of using a fan to test it ... good idea MS ! >> rg >> >> >> On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 7:09 AM Michael Salter via Healeys wrote: >> Bernoulli would have been proud of you. ?? >> >> M >> >> On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 9:05 a.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, wrote: >> Listers >> I attempted to add a 7 second video of a demonstration of how a draft tube works but it was rejected on the list. Probably file size. Anyway wanted to show the effectiveness of a draft tube in operation. >> Had my shop fan blowing parallel with the floor (car in motion), a empty paper towel tube and a strip of Kleenex tissue. Cut one end of the tube at an angle, about 30 degrees. Held the tissue paper over the upper square end of the tube and slowly lowered the angle cut end vertically into the fan wash, Only had to lower the tube less that 2 inches and the tissue was sucked down the tube. The engineers way back when knew what they were doing with regard to ventilating the engine in a very simple but not very environmental way. >> As Mr Dylan once said. "Ah, but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now..." :) >> P >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 11:36:49 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 10:36:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: References: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0krl8gt5cik083t471smfs1u94ol587usk@4ax.com> Keeps you regular, too! On Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:49:26 -0400, you wrote: >Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. > >On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < >healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old >> car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's. It >> had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. >> As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that was >> in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It wasn't common but >> experienced many times. >> P >> >> -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 29 12:02:38 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 18:02:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> <49061212-3bb7-bc05-93f1-ab97f11cc626@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: <1956402652.1542328.1619719358542@mail.yahoo.com> the smell of racing fuel & bratwurst at Road AmericaGary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: David P via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 11:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] smell of old cars ..old castor oil at the race track.. pure heaven.. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 12:50:24 2021 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 14:50:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars Message-ID: <4AA1AF5B-5AD9-4420-99C7-F5D65203CF47@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tappiokie at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 12:55:06 2021 From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 14:55:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tracking the Oil Leak... Message-ID: <1f6cdbe9-7d69-8d8d-f268-87577d0ca156@gmail.com> Regarding the discussion on a bell housing oil drip--how about adding a dye to the transmission and verifying that the leak is actually from the engine? From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 29 13:10:11 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:10:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tracking the Oil Leak... In-Reply-To: <1f6cdbe9-7d69-8d8d-f268-87577d0ca156@gmail.com> References: <1f6cdbe9-7d69-8d8d-f268-87577d0ca156@gmail.com> Message-ID: <34d30e32-f4fe-ea24-c93d-2794d1313dd5@comcast.net> Good idea. On 4/29/2021 11:55 AM, Jim Cox via Healeys wrote: > Regarding the discussion on a bell housing oil drip--how about adding > a dye to the transmission and verifying that the leak is actually from > the engine? > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 13:20:09 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:20:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 draft tube In-Reply-To: <2dfb3d16624f34a26639726d9eb2eb3d@xplornet.ca> References: <2dfb3d16624f34a26639726d9eb2eb3d@xplornet.ca> Message-ID: Lolz Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 7:47 AM Peter Svilans via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Michael, you've just sent several hundred "Bernoulli" requests to Google > :-) > > Best, Peter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Apr 29 14:19:24 2021 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 20:19:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tracking the Oil Leak... Message-ID: A passage from the book "Healeys and Austin-Healeys" by Browning & Needham, p.75, shows that the problem of oil in the bell housing was a longtime issue with the Healey, and the cause to loose a race or quarts of oil, which ever came first. So, if you see a puddle of oil on the floor, check your gearbox level, as well as the engine sump...old Healeys like oil. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday April 29 2021 12:15:11PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tracking the Oil Leak... Good idea. On 4/29/2021 11:55 AM, Jim Cox via Healeys wrote: > Regarding the discussion on a bell housing oil drip--how about adding > a dye to the transmission and verifying that the leak is actually from > the engine? > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1] http://autox.team.net/archive /> Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys /> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: scan0084.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 600660 bytes Desc: not available URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 16:17:42 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 15:17:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: <0krl8gt5cik083t471smfs1u94ol587usk@4ax.com> References: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> <0krl8gt5cik083t471smfs1u94ol587usk@4ax.com> Message-ID: A couple of things about castor oil. I use it in all my gas powered 2 stroke radio control engines. Something Donald Healey would know about, during WWI, flyers would frequently crap their pants on a mission or have to go to the john as soon as they landed. The castor oil used in the WWI biplane engines would be all over them while they were flying clouding up their goggles and breathing it during the flight. Mike MacLean On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 10:37 AM wrote: > Keeps you regular, too! > > On Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:49:26 -0400, you wrote: > > >Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. > > > >On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < > >healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > >> Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an old > >> car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the 60's. It > >> had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the > tailpipe. > >> As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient that > was > >> in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It wasn't common > but > >> experienced many times. > >> P > >> > >> > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 18:59:59 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 08:59:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: You should have said "well thankfully when I give you the middle finger, it still means the same thing as it did in 1960" On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 12:37 AM healeymanjim via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just > started my car. a young lady walked by and said > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used > to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she > believed me. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 19:31:08 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 18:31:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: She'll just never know the fun she is missing. I feel sorry for her Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 6:06 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > You should have said "well thankfully when I give you the middle finger, > it still means the same thing as it did in 1960" > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 12:37 AM healeymanjim via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just >> started my car. a young lady walked by and said >> something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars >> used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic >> converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she >> believed me. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 19:53:41 2021 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 01:53:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <700627834.2841528.1619747621993@mail.yahoo.com> Someone please explain to my wife that the smell of gasoline and motor oil is normal and a good thing for hotrods - as mine on a dinner outing tonight. -----Original Message----- From: healeymanjim via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:36 pm Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just started my car.? a young lady walked by and said something about how bad the car exhaust smelled.? i told her all cars used to smell that way and explained how a catalytic converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust.? i don't think she believed me. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 20:15:10 2021 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 10:15:10 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars In-Reply-To: <700627834.2841528.1619747621993@mail.yahoo.com> References: <20210429163634.12769.qmail@server278.com> <700627834.2841528.1619747621993@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'm lucky, my wife loves it. Of course her dad owns a significant machine shop business so she's used to all the machinery and funny smells. On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 9:55 AM llennep--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Someone please explain to my wife that the smell of gasoline and motor oil > is normal and a good thing for hotrods - as mine on a dinner outing tonight. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeymanjim via Healeys > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2021 12:36 pm > Subject: [Healeys] smell of old cars > > on this subject, a few months ago i was at the grocery store and had just > started my car. a young lady walked by and said > something about how bad the car exhaust smelled. i told her all cars used > to smell that way and explained how a catalytic > converter, etc., had changed the smell of car exhaust. i don't think she > believed me. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Thu Apr 29 20:43:48 2021 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:43:48 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube In-Reply-To: <0krl8gt5cik083t471smfs1u94ol587usk@4ax.com> References: <1555371057.2609895.1619714796647@mail.yahoo.com> <0krl8gt5cik083t471smfs1u94ol587usk@4ax.com> Message-ID: <000901d73d6a$a7197490$f54c5db0$@xtra.co.nz> Yep. It did the job for them . . . too effectively. ? And the silk scarf was used to wipe the Castrol mist from their goggles. -----Original Message----- From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Friday, 30 April 2021 5:37 a.m. To: Michael Salter Cc: Perry & Kimberly Small ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Draft tube Keeps you regular, too! On Thu, 29 Apr 2021 12:49:26 -0400, you wrote: >Castrol R ... castor oil ... lovely smell. > >On Thu., Apr. 29, 2021, 12:47 p.m. healeyguy--- via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Speaking of good or bad aromas experienced while driving behind an >> old car.. There was a motor oil that a bunch of folks used in the >> 60's. It had a very pungent aroma peculiar to that oil especially at the tailpipe. >> As is normal these days I have no memory of the name or ingredient >> that was in the oil that caused the exhaust to have the smell It >> wasn't common but experienced many times. >> P >> >> -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 22:33:29 2021 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2021 21:33:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch Message-ID: Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car or outside from underneath? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Apr 30 04:46:13 2021 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 20:46:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> Hello It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 and 3000s. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean via Healeys Sent: Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car or outside from underneath? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alexmm at roadrunner.com Fri Apr 30 06:24:05 2021 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 08:24:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch In-Reply-To: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> References: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: How is the dip switch mounted on my BT7? ? I need to remove it as it is no longer functional. Thanks for any info! == Alex in Maine, "The Blue Mainie' BT7 and 1946 MG-TC. On 4/30/2021 6:46 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys wrote: > > Hello > > It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 > and 3000s. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean via Healeys > *Sent:* Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Dip Switch > > Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the > car or outside from underneath? > > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Apr 30 07:04:34 2021 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 13:04:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch In-Reply-To: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> References: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com> The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2? Gary H -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys To: 'Michael MacLean' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch #yiv2142001794 #yiv2142001794 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2142001794 #yiv2142001794 p.yiv2142001794MsoNormal, #yiv2142001794 li.yiv2142001794MsoNormal, #yiv2142001794 div.yiv2142001794MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv2142001794 a:link, #yiv2142001794 span.yiv2142001794MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2142001794 a:visited, #yiv2142001794 span.yiv2142001794MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2142001794 span.yiv2142001794EmailStyle17 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;}#yiv2142001794 .yiv2142001794MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv2142001794 div.yiv2142001794WordSection1 {}#yiv2142001794 Hello ?It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 and 3000s. ?Hoo Roo ?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean via Healeys Sent: Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch ?Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car or outside from underneath?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 30 09:58:33 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 09:58:33 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] FEF Message-ID: <2918bef8-f16d-11de-66cf-79a8ee29ebd6@porterscustom.com> Not the best way to start my Friday.. Customer's car... -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bob's BJ8 p fender bender.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1251099 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 10:19:25 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 09:19:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FEF In-Reply-To: <2918bef8-f16d-11de-66cf-79a8ee29ebd6@porterscustom.com> References: <2918bef8-f16d-11de-66cf-79a8ee29ebd6@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: Ouch Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 9:10 AM David P via Healeys wrote: > Not the best way to start my Friday.. Customer's car... > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 30 11:42:31 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 13:42:31 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carb float bowl Message-ID: <1182058738.3380.1619804551287@wamui-boogie.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Listers, Does the washer under the float bowl hold down nut seal? Or is that a vent? Bob Haskell '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) '80 MBG LE (running?) From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 30 11:44:13 2021 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 13:44:13 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carb float bowl Message-ID: <129285105.3397.1619804653261@wamui-boogie.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Between the float bowl lid and the nut Bob Haskell '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) '80 MBG LE (running?) -----Original Message----- >From: Bob Haskell >Sent: Apr 30, 2021 1:42 PM >To: healey list >Subject: BN2 carb float bowl > >Listers, > >Does the washer under the float bowl hold down nut seal? Or is that a vent? > > >Bob Haskell >'60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) >'62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) >'64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) >'68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) >'80 MBG LE (running?) From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 12:11:55 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:11:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carb float bowl In-Reply-To: <129285105.3397.1619804653261@wamui-boogie.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <129285105.3397.1619804653261@wamui-boogie.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Depends on the type of lid Bob. There are some which use a washer with 3 reliefs which form the vent, some that have a banjo fitting with a vent tube and some that have a little brass flap under which the bowl vents. M On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 1:49 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > > Between the float bowl lid and the nut > > Bob Haskell > '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) > '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) > '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) > '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) > '80 MBG LE (running?) > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Bob Haskell > >Sent: Apr 30, 2021 1:42 PM > >To: healey list > >Subject: BN2 carb float bowl > > > >Listers, > > > >Does the washer under the float bowl hold down nut seal? Or is that a > vent? > > > > > >Bob Haskell > >'60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) > >'62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) > >'64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) > >'68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) > >'80 MBG LE (running?) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 12:13:56 2021 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:13:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FEF In-Reply-To: References: <2918bef8-f16d-11de-66cf-79a8ee29ebd6@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: I don't think taking to the pub last night was your best idea .. ? M On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 12:20 PM i erbs via Healeys wrote: > Ouch > > Ira Erbs > 1959 AH 100-6 > 1967 MGB > Milwaukie, OR > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 9:10 AM David P via Healeys > wrote: > >> Not the best way to start my Friday.. Customer's car... >> >> -- >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My >> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 12:32:18 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 11:32:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FEF In-Reply-To: References: <2918bef8-f16d-11de-66cf-79a8ee29ebd6@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: Lolz Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 11:17 AM Michael Salter wrote: > I don't think taking to the pub last night was your best idea .. ? > > M > > On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 12:20 PM i erbs via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Ouch >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 AH 100-6 >> 1967 MGB >> Milwaukie, OR >> >> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 9:10 AM David P via Healeys >> wrote: >> >>> Not the best way to start my Friday.. Customer's car... >>> >>> -- >>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My >>> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From garyandersonmm at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 14:35:19 2021 From: garyandersonmm at gmail.com (Gary Anderson) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 13:35:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing Message-ID: Many years ago, at a panel during a Healey West Coast Meet in Oregon, I took the opportunity to ask Geoff Healey about the issue of oil dripping out of the hole in the bottom of the bell housing when the car would come to a halt after driving a long distance. He gave us the general story that that was actually an intentional design feature, with the reverse archimedes screw typically doing its job and slinging the oil back in the sump at the rear end of the crank shaft. Of course, when the car came to a halt, the oil pressure would reverse and some oil would seep into the bell housing. To deal with that, there is a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing so the oil doesn't pool up. To make sure the hole stays open, a cotter pin is placed in the hole, with the legs projecting out the bottom. But then he chuckled and told the following story. When he and Donald were raising street versions of the first Hundreds at Le Mans -- generally for the international publicity benefits -- they anticipated that the race stewards stationed as observers in each of the pits would notice the pool of oil where the car had been sitting when it came in for a pit stop, which would have been grounds for disqualification. So Roger Menadue fastened small pans, contoured to be fastened under the bell housing hole. During the race, the pans would be stuffed with diapers, and that would take care of catching the oil for several stops. During stops when the steward wasn't looking, a mechanic would pull of a filled pan and fasten on a new empty pan. Worked like a charm: no oil leaks in the pits and, as we know, the street-spec Healeys, complete with bumpers and grilles, finished the race in respectable fashion, garnering good publicity and giving rise to the optional "Le Mans kit" that was available from DMHCO. And that's the rest of the story. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 15:38:10 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte Message-ID: Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte? Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210430_143440.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 6636610 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 15:50:59 2021 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 17:50:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002b01d73e0a$e8b28e50$ba17aaf0$@gmail.com> Gary: Thanks for your comments. I had thought of such a diaper pan for my situation, until I can remove the transmission and try and fix the problem as there is a very large puddle when coming to a halt after driving at high speeds for a long distance. On the same note, my German friend who raced British and European cars mentioned that on one occasion in the middle of a race the amount of oil had caused the clutch to slip. One of the pit crew suggested that there may be a hole in the top of the bell housing so you can pour diesel fuel through the hole and flush the oil out off the clutch. The car did have such a hole so they were able to keep it in the race. I looked my BJ8 does not have a flushing hole in the bell housing, so I must live with a slippage in 4th gear for a while. Meanwhile, PVC system applying negative pressure in the crankcase has reduced the leakage to a pint of oil every 100 miles at highway speed of 60 MPH and above Not acceptable on a new rebuild. Either the Archimedes screw is not doing its? job or the gasket or? 67 BJ8 Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Gary Anderson Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 4:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing Many years ago, at a panel during a Healey West Coast Meet in Oregon, I took the opportunity to ask Geoff Healey about the issue of oil dripping out of the hole in the bottom of the bell housing when the car would come to a halt after driving a long distance. He gave us the general story that that was actually an intentional design feature, with the reverse archimedes screw typically doing its job and slinging the oil back in the sump at the rear end of the crank shaft. Of course, when the car came to a halt, the oil pressure would reverse and some oil would seep into the bell housing. To deal with that, there is a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing so the oil doesn't pool up. To make sure the hole stays open, a cotter pin is placed in the hole, with the legs projecting out the bottom. But then he chuckled and told the following story. When he and Donald were raising street versions of the first Hundreds at Le Mans -- generally for the international publicity benefits -- they anticipated that the race stewards stationed as observers in each of the pits would notice the pool of oil where the car had been sitting when it came in for a pit stop, which would have been grounds for disqualification. So Roger Menadue fastened small pans, contoured to be fastened under the bell housing hole. During the race, the pans would be stuffed with diapers, and that would take care of catching the oil for several stops. During stops when the steward wasn't looking, a mechanic would pull of a filled pan and fasten on a new empty pan. Worked like a charm: no oil leaks in the pits and, as we know, the street-spec Healeys, complete with bumpers and grilles, finished the race in respectable fashion, garnering good publicity and giving rise to the optional "Le Mans kit" that was available from DMHCO. And that's the rest of the story. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 16:02:02 2021 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 15:02:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6fvo8gtfbgo8fdvqpi2sm7e1rcjj2ta038@4ax.com> On BN1s they are body color and gloss of course. -Roland On Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:38:10 -0700, you wrote: >Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte? > >Ira Erbs >1959 AH 100-6 >1967 MGB >Milwaukie, OR -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 17:18:57 2021 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 16:18:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte In-Reply-To: <6fvo8gtfbgo8fdvqpi2sm7e1rcjj2ta038@4ax.com> References: <6fvo8gtfbgo8fdvqpi2sm7e1rcjj2ta038@4ax.com> Message-ID: Thanks Ill get some clearcoat Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 3:02 PM wrote: > On BN1s they are body color and gloss of course. > -Roland > > On Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:38:10 -0700, you wrote: > > >Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte? > > > >Ira Erbs > >1959 AH 100-6 > >1967 MGB > >Milwaukie, OR > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Fri Apr 30 18:25:45 2021 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 10:25:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7B2CE6A7ADDE4DD4AB0B2B0AAB59C1F9@msiallinone> Gloss Ira Graeme M ( BJ8 ) From: i erbs via Healeys Sent: Saturday, May 1, 2021 7:38 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Gloss or matte Are the misters supposed to be glossy or matte? Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From garyandersonmm at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 18:49:53 2021 From: garyandersonmm at gmail.com (Gary Anderson) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 17:49:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan Message-ID: I'm getting ready to change the oil on my Healey -- a chore that was taken care of by various shops when the car was in for service, so not something I've done for many years -- and know that one of the essential parts that makes all the difference is a fresh, unused crunch washer to put on when the plug is put back into the bottom of the oil pan. I have no idea where to get one these days -- It used to be a very cheap item from Moss and I'd order half a dozen every couple of years. Any suggestions? Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Apr 30 19:10:54 2021 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 18:10:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d73e26$d6fec860$84fc5920$@cox.net> Gary, It is my understanding that the hole and cotter pin date back to the Model T days, and was put there to keep the road dust/grit from causing the hole to plug up, and to keep the oil from getting trapped. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Gary Anderson Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 1:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] On the subject of oil leaks and racing Many years ago, at a panel during a Healey West Coast Meet in Oregon, I took the opportunity to ask Geoff Healey about the issue of oil dripping out of the hole in the bottom of the bell housing when the car would come to a halt after driving a long distance. He gave us the general story that that was actually an intentional design feature, with the reverse archimedes screw typically doing its job and slinging the oil back in the sump at the rear end of the crank shaft. Of course, when the car came to a halt, the oil pressure would reverse and some oil would seep into the bell housing. To deal with that, there is a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing so the oil doesn't pool up. To make sure the hole stays open, a cotter pin is placed in the hole, with the legs projecting out the bottom. But then he chuckled and told the following story. When he and Donald were raising street versions of the first Hundreds at Le Mans -- generally for the international publicity benefits -- they anticipated that the race stewards stationed as observers in each of the pits would notice the pool of oil where the car had been sitting when it came in for a pit stop, which would have been grounds for disqualification. So Roger Menadue fastened small pans, contoured to be fastened under the bell housing hole. During the race, the pans would be stuffed with diapers, and that would take care of catching the oil for several stops. During stops when the steward wasn't looking, a mechanic would pull of a filled pan and fasten on a new empty pan. Worked like a charm: no oil leaks in the pits and, as we know, the street-spec Healeys, complete with bumpers and grilles, finished the race in respectable fashion, garnering good publicity and giving rise to the optional "Le Mans kit" that was available from DMHCO. And that's the rest of the story. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 20:52:31 2021 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 19:52:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary Get the present one red hot with a Mapp torch and you will have annealed/softened it like it was when new. Best-Michael Oritt On Fri, Apr 30, 2021, 5:56 PM Gary Anderson via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I'm getting ready to change the oil on my Healey -- a chore that was taken > care of by various shops when the car was in for service, so not something > I've done for many years -- and know that one of the essential parts that > makes all the difference is a fresh, unused crunch washer to put on when > the plug is put back into the bottom of the oil pan. > I have no idea where to get one these days -- It used to be a very cheap > item from Moss and I'd order half a dozen every couple of years. Any > suggestions? > Gary Anderson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 20:52:54 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 19:52:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Moss still has them: Part# 324-800, $0.49 (and $19.98 for shipping ;) I think these are the crush type, but for years I've used solid copper, which is what you used to get. I'll re-use them after annealing to 'cherry red' with a propane torch (was never sure is you should quench or let air cool for max. softness). I've never found the correct size in a hardware store or in one of the kits, but haven't looked all that hard. Bob On 4/30/2021 5:49 PM, Gary Anderson via Healeys wrote: > I'm getting ready to change the oil on my Healey -- a chore that was > taken care of by various shops when the car was in for service, so not > something I've done for many years -- and know that one of the > essential parts that makes all the difference is a fresh, unused > crunch washer to put on when the ?plug is put back into the bottom of > the oil pan. > I have no idea where to get one these days -- It used to be a very > cheap item from Moss and I'd order half a dozen every couple of > years.? Any suggestions? > Gary Anderson > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Apr 30 21:15:50 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 21:15:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carb float bowl Message-ID: <5qp05j2ys52mux36gi6llyxu.1619838950327@email.android.com> Had a SU carburetored Rolls Royce today with a vented elongated banjo bolt.. On April 30, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Michael Salter wrote: Depends on the type of lid Bob. There are some which use a washer with 3 reliefs which form the vent, some that have a banjo fitting with a vent tube and some that have a little brass flap under which the bowl vents. M On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 1:49 PM Bob Haskell wrote: Between the float bowl lid and the nut Bob Haskell '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) '80 MBG LE (running?) -----Original Message----- >From: Bob Haskell >Sent: Apr 30, 2021 1:42 PM >To: healey list >Subject: BN2 carb float bowl > >Listers, > >Does the washer under the float bowl hold down nut seal?? Or is that a vent? > > >Bob Haskell >'60 AH3000 BT7 (big project) >'62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project) >'64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition) >'68 BMW 1600 (first car - project) >'80 MBG LE (running?) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 21:16:13 2021 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 20:16:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005301d73e38$596d8780$0c489680$@sbcglobal.net> Whether you quench or not only affects the color. Not quenched and it will have black oxide. For "concours" correctness quench the washer to maintain the bright copper British colour. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 7:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Crunch washer for oil pan Moss still has them: Part# 324-800, $0.49 (and $19.98 for shipping ;) I think these are the crush type, but for years I've used solid copper, which is what you used to get. I'll re-use them after annealing to 'cherry red' with a propane torch (was never sure is you should quench or let air cool for max. softness). I've never found the correct size in a hardware store or in one of the kits, but haven't looked all that hard. Bob On 4/30/2021 5:49 PM, Gary Anderson via Healeys wrote: > I'm getting ready to change the oil on my Healey -- a chore that was > taken care of by various shops when the car was in for service, so not > something I've done for many years -- and know that one of the > essential parts that makes all the difference is a fresh, unused > crunch washer to put on when the plug is put back into the bottom of > the oil pan. > I have no idea where to get one these days -- It used to be a very > cheap item from Moss and I'd order half a dozen every couple of > years. Any suggestions? > Gary Anderson > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 21:22:17 2021 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 20:22:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hagerty Drivers Club Mag ... Message-ID: ... has a Healey 100-6 on the cover this edition (#67). I haven't read the whole article, but it's about a West Coast enthusiast scoring a survivor car, and driving it home in the dark. Bob From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Apr 30 20:10:40 2021 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2021 19:10:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Dip Switch In-Reply-To: <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com> References: <009e01d73dae$0ac845a0$2058d0e0$@tpg.com.au> <152629819.1761341.1619787874077@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It was *designed* to go in from the inside of the footwell since the Bakelite insulator is the same diamond shape as the hole in the foot well. HOWEVER, as designed is not how they were produced! If you install them this way, they will short out! Ask Roger Moment and Richard Gordon how this does not work. So in practice, at the factory the switch was inserted from the out/underside of the footwell. See photos of the correctly installed switch on my car. Cheers, Curt On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:05 AM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > The question was, is it mounted on the "inside or the outside" of the > diagonal part of the footwell in a BN1/2? > Gary H > > -----Original Message----- > From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn via Healeys > To: 'Michael MacLean' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 5:46 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dip Switch > > Hello > > It comes up through the diagonal part of the footwell unlike the 100/6 and > 3000s. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > MacLean via Healeys > *Sent:* Friday, 30 April 2021 2:33 PM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Dip Switch > > Can someone tell me if the dip switch in a BN1/2 is mounted inside the car > or outside from underneath? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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