[Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues

Curtis Arndt cnaarndt at gmail.com
Mon Sep 7 07:38:49 MDT 2020


Gentlemen,

First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.

Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.

Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.

-Curt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
> issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
> stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
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