From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 13:57:55 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 15:57:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Offset or Bad Q.C.?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR15MB2217E1180FB0D5271279C3E4A5500@DM6PR15MB2217.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <791546578.286542.1598737893996.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <791546578.286542.1598737893996@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7gyjy=YETe_2XGohXon+0VmFpAwoPCwof8nxN=q8K_xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <3bbf667e-2369-fd6b-c0b5-0b5673d2421c@porterscustom.com>
 <DM6PR15MB2217E1180FB0D5271279C3E4A5500@DM6PR15MB2217.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B41E0qa20ODi9MPsiE8Nu74EFrTHrohRC2Q5YM9o89pbg@mail.gmail.com>

Someone expressed skepticism that the holes in the sockets were designed to
be offset in order to provide eccentric adjustment for the side screens.  I
verified with Curt Arndt who is on the Concours committee that this was the
purpose of the offset. If contemporary sockets are supplied with holes
on-center it is possible that someone simply didn't grasp the subtlety of
the design.  In any case all four of the sockets on my car are properly
off-center.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 2:25 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Roland, Thanks for the information. I have some ideas on getting the parts
> done and hope they will turn out ?jewel like?. ?Nearly useless? actually
> describes the entire car, but some people spend much more on a few dabs of
> paint to hang on the wall. At least I can jump in it now and then and go
> for a bag or two of groceries...
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David P via
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2020 4:40 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Offset or Bad Q.C.?
>
>
> oops, I got that wrong...
>
>
> On 8/30/2020 6:44 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
> Michael--
>
> The holes are eccentric or off-center to provide slight adjustability in
> moving the curtain a bit forward or aft on the door as well as to allow for
> slightly different distances between the insert rods, etc.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 5:58 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I am installing the side curtain sockets in the doors of my BN2.  These
> sockets are new from Moss.  Am I missing something?  The hole through the
> center of the socket is offset from the center.  Is it supposed to be like
> that and why?  Also, not exactly a flush fit to the door skin, but very
> tight in the threaded hole.  Kind of a bummer.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Sep  1 14:24:55 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 20:24:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Offset or Bad Q.C.?
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B41E0qa20ODi9MPsiE8Nu74EFrTHrohRC2Q5YM9o89pbg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <791546578.286542.1598737893996.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <791546578.286542.1598737893996@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7gyjy=YETe_2XGohXon+0VmFpAwoPCwof8nxN=q8K_xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <3bbf667e-2369-fd6b-c0b5-0b5673d2421c@porterscustom.com>
 <DM6PR15MB2217E1180FB0D5271279C3E4A5500@DM6PR15MB2217.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAPTa0B41E0qa20ODi9MPsiE8Nu74EFrTHrohRC2Q5YM9o89pbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB22138614D68A90774AC693FDA52E0@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Agreed, I got the information from Roger Moment.
________________________________
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 7:57 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: David P via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Offset or Bad Q.C.?

Someone expressed skepticism that the holes in the sockets were designed to be offset in order to provide eccentric adjustment for the side screens.  I verified with Curt Arndt who is on the Concours committee that this was the purpose of the offset. If contemporary sockets are supplied with holes on-center it is possible that someone simply didn't grasp the subtlety of the design.  In any case all four of the sockets on my car are properly off-center.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 2:25 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Roland, Thanks for the information. I have some ideas on getting the parts done and hope they will turn out ?jewel like?. ?Nearly useless? actually describes the entire car, but some people spend much more on a few dabs of paint to hang on the wall. At least I can jump in it now and then and go for a bag or two of groceries...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of David P via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 4:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Offset or Bad Q.C.?


oops, I got that wrong...


On 8/30/2020 6:44 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
Michael--

The holes are eccentric or off-center to provide slight adjustability in moving the curtain a bit forward or aft on the door as well as to allow for slightly different distances between the insert rods, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 5:58 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
I am installing the side curtain sockets in the doors of my BN2.  These sockets are new from Moss.  Am I missing something?  The hole through the center of the socket is offset from the center.  Is it supposed to be like that and why?  Also, not exactly a flush fit to the door skin, but very tight in the threaded hole.  Kind of a bummer.
Mike MacLean
[cid:1744b3aafbac12f804b1]
[cid:1744b3aafba89404b532]




Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
_______________________________________________
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--
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/<http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 17:00:34 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 19:00:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone tried this mod on a convertible?  Is there enough room to obtain
additional lean back without hitting the rear interior side panels?

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> someone either on this list or FB asked about how I raised the fulcrum
> point on my seats to lean the seat back and make more room for taller
> drivers.
> I realized others may want to see it too. I also had inflatable lumbar
> supports put into the seat backs when I had them recovered. Adds more arm
> length and leg room, plus more comfortable to have some lean.
> Moving to a bigger property next month and will have room for all my toys
> in one spot.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 17:04:13 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 16:04:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_ZnuPzVq0V61YNDX-dJOhJcN4Ft7MugvUq4JkfYiF-pw@mail.gmail.com>

i did it on my bn4 roadster. Not sure about later cars

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020, 4:00 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone tried this mod on a convertible?  Is there enough room to
> obtain additional lean back without hitting the rear interior side panels?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> someone either on this list or FB asked about how I raised the fulcrum
>> point on my seats to lean the seat back and make more room for taller
>> drivers.
>> I realized others may want to see it too. I also had inflatable lumbar
>> supports put into the seat backs when I had them recovered. Adds more arm
>> length and leg room, plus more comfortable to have some lean.
>> Moving to a bigger property next month and will have room for all my toys
>> in one spot.
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>>       _______                                  _______
>>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>          (_________________________)
>>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>>
>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  1 17:48:00 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 16:48:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Well......
Message-ID: <6017d425-8299-87b0-86ee-093fcd416508@comcast.net>

Well, it's not a Healey, but.............
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  1 18:50:57 2020
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 20:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_ZnuPzVq0V61YNDX-dJOhJcN4Ft7MugvUq4JkfYiF-pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ZnuPzVq0V61YNDX-dJOhJcN4Ft7MugvUq4JkfYiF-pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0F217A48-1F23-47D0-9190-94963212CD2B@yahoo.com>

I just did this to my 67 BJ 8 . Haven?t driven it enough , but I love it so far . Better seat rake , no problem with the rear interior panels fit.  No problem with my knees hitting the steering wheel . And as a bonus, the raised seat makes it easier to get in and out of . 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 1, 2020, at 7:04 PM, i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> i did it on my bn4 roadster. Not sure about later cars
> 
>> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020, 4:00 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Has anyone tried this mod on a convertible?  Is there enough room to obtain additional lean back without hitting the rear interior side panels?
>> 
>> Healthy Healeying,
>> Rick Neville
>> 
>>> On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> someone either on this list or FB asked about how I raised the fulcrum point on my seats to lean the seat back and make more room for taller drivers.
>>> I realized others may want to see it too. I also had inflatable lumbar supports put into the seat backs when I had them recovered. Adds more arm length and leg room, plus more comfortable to have some lean.
>>> Moving to a bigger property next month and will have room for all my toys in one spot.
>>> Ira Erbs
>>> Portland,OR
>>>       _______                                  _______
>>>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>>          (_________________________)
>>>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 1967 MGB  
>>> 
>>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Sep  1 18:54:20 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 00:54:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1439887819.1849528.1599008060965@mail.yahoo.com>

If you are referring to a BJ8 I did the seat tilt 30 years ago.? I am 6-2 plus and it made a difference.? The seat top just touches the iteriro quarter panels.? The wood strip beneath the seat frames are 1/4 thick in rear and 3/4 thick in front.Keith


-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:00 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point

Has anyone tried this mod on a convertible?? Is there enough room to obtain additional lean back without hitting the rear interior side panels?
Healthy Healeying,Rick Neville
On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

someone either on this list or FB asked about how I raised the fulcrum point on my seats to lean the seat back and make more room for taller drivers.I realized others may want to see it too. I also had inflatable lumbar supports put into the seat backs when I had them recovered. Adds more arm length and leg room, plus more comfortable to have some lean.Moving to a bigger property next month and will have room for all my toys in one spot.
Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes

1967 MGB ?
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 07:26:13 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 09:26:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <1439887819.1849528.1599008060965@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1439887819.1849528.1599008060965@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PKOZ2OUMiArOAHGGHR8PWYBGKqnXHHCzCbknGp6CTup8A@mail.gmail.com>

I drilled new holes in the bottom of the seat frame and pushed it back
about 1/2 inch. I have a block of wood between the front of the seat and
the frame. Every little bit helps.

Has anyone gotten more space in the foot well?  The pedal arms have about 2
inches at the bottom pushing the pedal pads closer to the driver.  Is there
a way to safely shorten that?

- Tom

>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Sep  2 07:50:19 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 09:50:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Was Raising the fulcrum point now pedal arms
References: <A63F554B-9BD0-437A-9C6F-12F97B79C2A4.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A63F554B-9BD0-437A-9C6F-12F97B79C2A4@aol.com>

The photo shows the arm and pad. Not sure what could be done except a cut and weld operation. 
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 09:11:51 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 11:11:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PKOZ2OUMiArOAHGGHR8PWYBGKqnXHHCzCbknGp6CTup8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1439887819.1849528.1599008060965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANQM1PKOZ2OUMiArOAHGGHR8PWYBGKqnXHHCzCbknGp6CTup8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcfXLaKL9Mf4FeabMegTnN8LdbPc03cTRWZwJ=zn=OG4g@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding the pedals, I wonder if you could install a Tilton assembly with
new master cylinders?  Some of the racers must have done.

Rick Neville

On Wed, Sep 2, 2020 at 9:27 AM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

>
> I drilled new holes in the bottom of the seat frame and pushed it back
> about 1/2 inch. I have a block of wood between the front of the seat and
> the frame. Every little bit helps.
>
> Has anyone gotten more space in the foot well?  The pedal arms have about
> 2 inches at the bottom pushing the pedal pads closer to the driver.  Is
> there a way to safely shorten that?
>
> - Tom
>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  2 14:00:01 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 16:00:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Was Raising the fulcrum point now pedal arms
In-Reply-To: <A63F554B-9BD0-437A-9C6F-12F97B79C2A4@aol.com>
References: <A63F554B-9BD0-437A-9C6F-12F97B79C2A4.ref@aol.com>
 <A63F554B-9BD0-437A-9C6F-12F97B79C2A4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <f3abe775-2c6c-95da-d990-2a0e9e186964@earthlink.net>

I know folks that have reworked the accelerator pedal, removing some of 
the rod behind the pad.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/2/20 9:50 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
> The photo shows the arm and pad. Not sure what could be done except a cut and weld operation.
> P
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu Sep  3 10:31:10 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2020 12:31:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] raising the fulcrum point
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-ah6BDB_c+xaYUXtUptjp2RapsUmLALoyg4QsBPsVdWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZdENotEJ9t5eaTPaMGZYZu20eQkE5umNj4ac4af-Y7yaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfg-fHGxyykrwMEJtzEZ=Ta4wVrocLTE1gxWAjqVtxLMQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for everyone's help with this.  Looks like there is more than one
way to get it done.  Now on my to-do list.

Healthy Healeying,

Rick Neville

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 7:00 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Has anyone tried this mod on a convertible?  Is there enough room to
> obtain additional lean back without hitting the rear interior side panels?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM i erbs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> someone either on this list or FB asked about how I raised the fulcrum
>> point on my seats to lean the seat back and make more room for taller
>> drivers.
>> I realized others may want to see it too. I also had inflatable lumbar
>> supports put into the seat backs when I had them recovered. Adds more arm
>> length and leg room, plus more comfortable to have some lean.
>> Moving to a bigger property next month and will have room for all my toys
>> in one spot.
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>>       _______                                  _______
>>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>          (_________________________)
>>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>>
>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From manifold at telus.net  Fri Sep  4 14:35:47 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 13:35:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Taking Door Handle Apart
Message-ID: <0A42C88EF43C4243918C75A4B93ED066@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I would like to replace the spring and re-chrome the door handles. The big
hollow pin and the smallest diameter pin came out easily. The third pin
appears to have a countersunk head on one side and peened on the other. I
tried to press it out and it wasn't moving. Any suggestion how to remove the
medium size pin or is it best to leave it be?
 
Thanks... Harold
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  4 19:09:27 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 18:09:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Taking Door Handle Apart
In-Reply-To: <0A42C88EF43C4243918C75A4B93ED066@AllInOne>
References: <0A42C88EF43C4243918C75A4B93ED066@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <00a901d68321$342f1ab0$9c8d5010$@sbcglobal.net>

I think it is a split pin and should not be peened but I cannot find a
complete handle. However, be sure the handle body is not cracked or
cracking. It is very common but hard to spot. Look closely at the opening in
the lower right side of the handle body; it's cracked. I bought some new
handles from AH Spares about 5 years ago and the fit was so poor I returned
them and looked for some good used ones to re-plate. Perhaps it is better
now, I don't know. I doubt you can plate them without full disassembly.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 4, 2020 1:36 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Taking Door Handle Apart

 

Hello,

 

I would like to replace the spring and re-chrome the door handles. The big
hollow pin and the smallest diameter pin came out easily. The third pin
appears to have a countersunk head on one side and peened on the other. I
tried to press it out and it wasn't moving. Any suggestion how to remove the
medium size pin or is it best to leave it be?

 

Thanks... Harold

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Sep  4 20:27:05 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 02:27:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Measurement
References: <30189121.3465833.1599272825082.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30189121.3465833.1599272825082@mail.yahoo.com>

Would someone with a 100 please measure the distance location of the convertible top turnbutton that sits right behind the doors on the rear fender.? These holes were filled in by the body and paint guy. Thanks.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 07:19:49 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 09:19:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart
References: <C197FCE0-90C3-4C02-B068-E1C92340AC36.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C197FCE0-90C3-4C02-B068-E1C92340AC36@aol.com>

Sometimes the only way to get to an answer is a bit of hammer research. 
Must have about 40 pitted nasty handles in the bin so why not find out what the middle sized pin is (or was). Picked a really corroded one to start with. Large tube knocked out fairly easily. Same with the small diameter pin. Middle size pin required a bit more, a drill. Small hole first to see if indeed it was peened on the ends. Increased hole size  and fiddled with moving the pin and parts. Would not come apart until the hole was full pin diameter. Does not appear to have been preened just corroded in place. 
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From manifold at telus.net  Sat Sep  5 09:01:17 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 08:01:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart
In-Reply-To: <C197FCE0-90C3-4C02-B068-E1C92340AC36@aol.com>
References: <C197FCE0-90C3-4C02-B068-E1C92340AC36.ref@aol.com>
 <C197FCE0-90C3-4C02-B068-E1C92340AC36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DBB5B453646D4F6EAF45DCFB9791C4ED@AllInOne>

Perry,

Thank-you for donating a door handle to advancing Austin Healey research.

Harold 

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 6:20 AM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys
Subject: Taking door handle apart

Sometimes the only way to get to an answer is a bit of hammer research. 
Must have about 40 pitted nasty handles in the bin so why not find out what
the middle sized pin is (or was). Picked a really corroded one to start
with. Large tube knocked out fairly easily. Same with the small diameter
pin. Middle size pin required a bit more, a drill. Small hole first to see
if indeed it was peened on the ends. Increased hole size  and fiddled with
moving the pin and parts. Would not come apart until the hole was full pin
diameter. Does not appear to have been preened just corroded in place. 
P



From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 09:45:38 2020
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 08:45:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart
In-Reply-To: <DBB5B453646D4F6EAF45DCFB9791C4ED@AllInOne>
References: <DBB5B453646D4F6EAF45DCFB9791C4ED@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <2B30D5C0-7A85-4220-93DA-FFE31C103AA0@gmail.com>

?Hammer reseach?  reminds me of an inscription found on the wall of a Roman charriot shop ?Nolite id cogere, cape malleum majorem? which translates to: 
Don't force it, get a bigger hammer. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Perry,
> 
> Thank-you for donating a door handle to advancing Austin Healey research.
> 
> Harold 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Perry Small [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 6:20 AM
> To: Harold Manifold
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Taking door handle apart
> 
> Sometimes the only way to get to an answer is a bit of hammer research. 
> Must have about 40 pitted nasty handles in the bin so why not find out what
> the middle sized pin is (or was). Picked a really corroded one to start
> with. Large tube knocked out fairly easily. Same with the small diameter
> pin. Middle size pin required a bit more, a drill. Small hole first to see
> if indeed it was peened on the ends. Increased hole size  and fiddled with
> moving the pin and parts. Would not come apart until the hole was full pin
> diameter. Does not appear to have been preened just corroded in place. 
> P
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com
> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep  5 10:23:30 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 09:23:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
Message-ID: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>

 From the latest Hagerty's magazine (attached).
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 10:38:19 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 12:38:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart
In-Reply-To: <2B30D5C0-7A85-4220-93DA-FFE31C103AA0@gmail.com>
References: <DBB5B453646D4F6EAF45DCFB9791C4ED@AllInOne>
 <2B30D5C0-7A85-4220-93DA-FFE31C103AA0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.66.1599323912.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

OK Harold you brought up the Romans so here is a useless but informative piece of personal transportation history for your perusal on a sunny September day. These guys, I think the hammer owner name was Thor Pirelli, used a hammer to put their ?tires? on?
Perry


HISTORY
Used without permission from Rosella but I will apologize profusely if thrown under the bus?:0
This Secret Feature Kept Ancient Roman Chariots From Crashing
Close examination of an ancient toy chariot has revealed a clue to what helped lead ancient Roman charioteers to victory.
By?Rossella Lorenzi
Published on 1/10/2017 at 1:10 PM
When most people imagine chariot racing in ancient Rome, they likely picture the thrilling race portrayed in the epic blockbuster "Ben-Hur." Yet it's unlikely the heavy chariot driven by Charlton Heston would ever win a real race.
That chariot wasn't just hopelessly huge and heavy - it did not have proper tires.
A study of a 2,000-year-old toy chariot found in the Tiber River in the early 1890's and now on display at the British Museum, has revealed a secret trick. To increase the winning chances in the Formula One of the ancient Romans, an iron rim was mounted on the right wheel only of the two-wheeled chariot.
"The basic wheels were always of wood, animal hide glue, and rawhide strips (at critical joints) that tighten upon drying, like clamps," explained author Bela Sandor, professor emeritus of engineering physics at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. "Any iron tire for racing would be a very thin strip of iron on the outside of the wooden rim, best when heat-shrunk on the wood, to consolidate the whole wheel.
Adding the strip of iron to the right wheel improved a charioteer's chances of winning a race to roughly 80 percent, according to a study published in the latest issue of the?Journal of Roman Archaeology.
"The solution makes full sense in engineering thinking, ancient or modern," Sandor told Seeker.
Unfortunately no actual Roman racing chariots have survived. The archaeological evidence for the single-tire configuration only comes from the small toy model now on display at the British Museum.
RELATED: King Tut's Chariots: Ferraris of Ancient Egypt
Representing a biga, a two-wheeled racing chariot driven by two horses, the hand-sized bronze model is lacking one of the two galloping horses as well as the charioteer.
The bronze chariot was probably a toy for a rich individual, perhaps even Emperor Nero, who, according to 1st-century historian Suetonius, used to play with toy chariots.
"The wheels originally rotated freely on the axle. It was made by someone who knew a lot about racing chariots," Sandor said.
Using the toy model and independent estimations as a guide, Sandor was able to establish the major dimensions of Roman racing chariots. He concluded that a typical Roman vehicle weighed about 25-30 kg (55-66 pounds) had a track width of about 155 cm (5 feet), a wheel diameter of about 65 cm (2.1 feet) and a pole of about 230 cm (7.5 feet).
Among the details of the Tiber model, the British Museum's Judith Swaddling and Sandor noted a slightly raised rim only on the right wheel, indicating a thin iron tire reinforced the wheel.
"Two identical wheels would have been easier to produce for toys and real chariots alike. But a high-ranking customer would probably demand for his sophisticated toy an authentic representation of reality, if indeed that was one tire only," Sandor said.
Since it was easier to guide the horses into left-turning bends, most races ran anti-clockwise.
"Indeed, the right side tire works best in oval-shaped arenas if the turning is always leftward," Sandor said.
Sandor explained that some of the Romans strengthened the right wheels only because all chariots leaned to the right and overloaded just the right wheels during the left turns.
"This makes total sense to everybody who understands the dynamics of a turning vehicle. It's a common sensation to people riding in a fast-turning vehicle; standing and lurching sideways in a turning bus is a good example," Sandor said.
RELATED: Villa Owned by Ben-Hur's Rival Identified
Although the single iron tire configuration did not always produce a faster machine, it likely prevented wheel failure and crashes and so it was statistically superior in racetracks.
"Without any iron on the wheels, the right wheel was failing often and predominantly, while both wheels having iron tires tended to be safe but were seldom a winning combination," Sandor said.
Overall, Sandor estimated that chariots with no iron tires had a 50 percent chance to win, while vehicles with two iron tires had only 30 percent probability of success. The Ben-Hur movie chariot would have had less than 5 percent chance of rolling to victory.
"A racing chariot with an iron tire on the right wheel only was the best compromise in terms of safety, durability and winning probability," Sandor said. "As the finest available representation of a Roman racing chariot, the Tiber model gives us a glimpse into the Romans' probabilistic thinking for winning races and bets."
According to Andr? Veldmeijer, visiting research scholar at the American University in Cairo, the study reveals how much more there is to learn about the design and strategy behind ancient chariot racing. As he told Seeker, "Chariots, despite the numerous studies and increasing scholarly attention, have not yet revealed all their secrets, as this study clearly shows."
End END
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Richard Ewald
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 11:45 AM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: Perry Small; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart

?Hammer reseach? ?reminds me of an inscription found on the wall of a Roman charriot shop ?Nolite id cogere, cape malleum majorem? which translates to:?
Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.?

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 5, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?Perry,

Thank-you for donating a door handle to advancing Austin Healey research.

Harold 

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 6:20 AM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys
Subject: Taking door handle apart

Sometimes the only way to get to an answer is a bit of hammer research. 
Must have about 40 pitted nasty handles in the bin so why not find out what
the middle sized pin is (or was). Picked a really corroded one to start
with. Large tube knocked out fairly easily. Same with the small diameter
pin. Middle size pin required a bit more, a drill. Small hole first to see
if indeed it was peened on the ends. Increased hole size ?and fiddled with
moving the pin and parts. Would not come apart until the hole was full pin
diameter. Does not appear to have been preened just corroded in place. 
P


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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sat Sep  5 11:36:33 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 13:36:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart
In-Reply-To: <2B30D5C0-7A85-4220-93DA-FFE31C103AA0@gmail.com>
References: <DBB5B453646D4F6EAF45DCFB9791C4ED@AllInOne>
 <2B30D5C0-7A85-4220-93DA-FFE31C103AA0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009201d683ab$19466b60$4bd34220$@sympatico.ca>

That quote is a wonderful contribution to English literature from Dick O?Kane.  He provided it in the Introduction to CH 2 in his classic book ?How  to Repair Your Foreign Car, a guide for the beginner, your wife and the mechanically inept?.  In truth, he may not have been the originator, but it was the first time I saw it, back in 1968, and I bought the book immediately.  If you have not read it, you should.  Simply informative and hilariously written.

 

I just shocked myself when I grabbed the link to Amazon for this book.  I paid a few bucks for it, but it is no longer cheap!  There must be cheaper options somewhere.

 

https://www.amazon.com/How-repair-your-foreign-car/dp/B0006BU5GW

 

cheers,  Mirek

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Ewald via Healeys
Sent: September 5, 2020 11:46 AM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Taking door handle apart

 

?Hammer reseach?  reminds me of an inscription found on the wall of a Roman charriot shop ?Nolite id cogere, cape malleum majorem? which translates to: 

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer. 



Sent from my iPhone





On Sep 5, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

?Perry,

Thank-you for donating a door handle to advancing Austin Healey research.

Harold 

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 6:20 AM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys
Subject: Taking door handle apart

Sometimes the only way to get to an answer is a bit of hammer research. 
Must have about 40 pitted nasty handles in the bin so why not find out what
the middle sized pin is (or was). Picked a really corroded one to start
with. Large tube knocked out fairly easily. Same with the small diameter
pin. Middle size pin required a bit more, a drill. Small hole first to see
if indeed it was peened on the ends. Increased hole size  and fiddled with
moving the pin and parts. Would not come apart until the hole was full pin
diameter. Does not appear to have been preened just corroded in place. 
P


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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jkrich at gvtc.com  Sat Sep  5 14:36:38 2020
From: jkrich at gvtc.com (James Richmond)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:36:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Measurement
Message-ID: <41A23FDB-F4CB-448D-955D-65E13BD4B30E@gvtc.com>

Michael,

The distance to the middle of the turnbutton from the door is 1-1/8?.  It is 1/2? below the trim piece. 

Jim

From varley at cosmos.net.au  Sun Sep  6 01:26:19 2020
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 17:26:19 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
In-Reply-To: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>
References: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>

Thanks Bob, yes I love the Nash Healey, in my case the 54 Coupe is my 
favorite, perhaps why I have 2 :). But as we are a bit of topic, the 
attached is my 1949 Austin A70 ute. While Healey folk will say the 
Healey 100 was a derivative of the Austin Atlantic, realistically the 
Atlantic is just a big bore Austin A70 with a different body. In the 
case of my A70 it has a 2720cc Atlantic block with Australian "Head Stud 
Development" alloy head made for the 100, higher compression, 290 degree 
duration cam ( Wade 149 ), high lift rockers and chrome moly push rods 
coupled to a Toyota Supra gearbox. It has a 3.55 diff on 16 inch Austin 
wheels with high profile Continental tyres. Brakes are power assisted 
BJ8 front discs, and rear standard Austin drums. It happily cruises at 
100 KPH ( 62 MPH ) at 2400 RPM with bags of torque.

Perhaps I have ventured off topic a bit but did work in Healey where 
possible :)

Regards to all

Larry Varley



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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Sep  6 01:53:35 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 09:53:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
In-Reply-To: <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>
References: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>
 <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>
Message-ID: <75cb7f4a-ab6c-b9a5-311f-5309b3451229@chello.nl>

Apart from the technical mods which are impressive on their own, this 
originally unimpressive car is an absolute beauty due to the stunning 
colour combination.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 6-9-2020 om 09:26 schreef Larry Varley via Healeys:
> Thanks Bob, yes I love the Nash Healey, in my case the 54 Coupe is my 
> favorite, perhaps why I have 2 :). But as we are a bit of topic, the 
> attached is my 1949 Austin A70 ute. While Healey folk will say the 
> Healey 100 was a derivative of the Austin Atlantic, realistically the 
> Atlantic is just a big bore Austin A70 with a different body. In the 
> case of my A70 it has a 2720cc Atlantic block with Australian "Head 
> Stud Development" alloy head made for the 100, higher compression, 290 
> degree duration cam ( Wade 149 ), high lift rockers and chrome moly 
> push rods coupled to a Toyota Supra gearbox. It has a 3.55 diff on 16 
> inch Austin wheels with high profile Continental tyres. Brakes are 
> power assisted BJ8 front discs, and rear standard Austin drums. It 
> happily cruises at 100 KPH ( 62 MPH ) at 2400 RPM with bags of torque.
>
> Perhaps I have ventured off topic a bit but did work in Healey where 
> possible :)
>
> Regards to all
>
> Larry Varley
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  6 06:09:52 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 08:09:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HBT7L931
Message-ID: <e322cbde-90ac-c9b3-f873-da89e420c670@earthlink.net>

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 07:05:52 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 13:05:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
In-Reply-To: <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>
References: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>
 <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>
Message-ID: <1822374577.782397.1599397552635@mail.yahoo.com>

Larry,That is a beauty!Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Varley via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2020 2:26 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] One for Larry V.

Thanks Bob, yes I love the Nash Healey, in my case the 54 Coupe is my 
favorite, perhaps why I have 2 :). But as we are a bit of topic, the 
attached is my 1949 Austin A70 ute. While Healey folk will say the 
Healey 100 was a derivative of the Austin Atlantic, realistically the 
Atlantic is just a big bore Austin A70 with a different body. In the 
case of my A70 it has a 2720cc Atlantic block with Australian "Head Stud 
Development" alloy head made for the 100, higher compression, 290 degree 
duration cam ( Wade 149 ), high lift rockers and chrome moly push rods 
coupled to a Toyota Supra gearbox. It has a 3.55 diff on 16 inch Austin 
wheels with high profile Continental tyres. Brakes are power assisted 
BJ8 front discs, and rear standard Austin drums. It happily cruises at 
100 KPH ( 62 MPH ) at 2400 RPM with bags of torque.

Perhaps I have ventured off topic a bit but did work in Healey where 
possible :)

Regards to all

Larry Varley



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 09:25:58 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 08:25:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
In-Reply-To: <1822374577.782397.1599397552635@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <c8eeec7c-30a5-456d-e14c-a156fd22088e@comcast.net>
 <ff8a9311-30ae-dc1e-fee1-c33d767fb16c@cosmos.net.au>
 <1822374577.782397.1599397552635@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <b55fdb84-2d68-6e3c-e040-2fa87adc9785@comcast.net>

Yes, very nice.

On 9/6/2020 6:05 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> Larry,
> That is a beauty!
> Gary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Varley via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2020 2:26 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] One for Larry V.
>
> Thanks Bob, yes I love the Nash Healey, in my case the 54 Coupe is my
> favorite, perhaps why I have 2 :). But as we are a bit of topic, the
> attached is my 1949 Austin A70 ute. While Healey folk will say the
> Healey 100 was a derivative of the Austin Atlantic, realistically the
> Atlantic is just a big bore Austin A70 with a different body. In the
> case of my A70 it has a 2720cc Atlantic block with Australian "Head Stud
> Development" alloy head made for the 100, higher compression, 290 degree
> duration cam ( Wade 149 ), high lift rockers and chrome moly push rods
> coupled to a Toyota Supra gearbox. It has a 3.55 diff on 16 inch Austin
> wheels with high profile Continental tyres. Brakes are power assisted
> BJ8 front discs, and rear standard Austin drums. It happily cruises at
> 100 KPH ( 62 MPH ) at 2400 RPM with bags of torque.
>
> Perhaps I have ventured off topic a bit but did work in Healey where
> possible :)
>
> Regards to all
>
> Larry Varley
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 13:35:42 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 15:35:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>

I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for refurbishing and
got it back in great condition. However I am having difficulty in
reinstalling it:

1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to attach the
trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat head machine screws
that go through the countersunk holes in the stator tube end plate and pick
up the thin copper or brass piece which resembles a spring washer. Because
of the piece's thinness there is really only one thread of engagement and
whenever I attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing something
wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?

2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the stator tube as
I cannot get it started and before I start exerting force I thought I would
enquire whether it needs to be heated, etc. Getting the old one off was not
easy and i would up having to cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible
that I have slightly buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if
perhaps I need to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?

Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and I would
like to get the car back on the road.


Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 13:53:23 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 15:53:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+mMeNPawRHDyEHRs7EAm=wUCffe-zgnQoBPGnfJ0qqRg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael,
The first question is hard to visualize  ... can you send pics?
The question regarding the olive I suspect is because you are working with
a solid "plumbing " olive rather than the correct and somewhat more
difficult to find "split" olive.
The correct type will usually slip over the end of the tube easily.
If the end of the tube is damaged it is easily cleaned up with a file.

M


On Sun., Sep. 6, 2020, 3:36 p.m. Michael Oritt via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for refurbishing and
> got it back in great condition. However I am having difficulty in
> reinstalling it:
>
> 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to attach the
> trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat head machine screws
> that go through the countersunk holes in the stator tube end plate and pick
> up the thin copper or brass piece which resembles a spring washer. Because
> of the piece's thinness there is really only one thread of engagement and
> whenever I attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing something
> wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
> 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the stator tube
> as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting force I thought I
> would enquire whether it needs to be heated, etc. Getting the old one off
> was not easy and i would up having to cut it with a dremel tool. It is
> possible that I have slightly buggered the end of the stator tube and
> wonder if perhaps I need to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
> Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and I would
> like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  6 15:09:04 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 17:09:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>

Michael,

With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short 
stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three 
alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small 
holes on the short stator tube.? The copper ground ring has to fit 
around them too.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
>     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
>     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
>     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
>     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 15:32:20 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 14:32:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <f5581cb2-808f-9ff5-e7dc-876fc74f39c0@comcast.net>

(Somewhat) on-topic: With the adjustable steering wheels, the (long) 
stator tube is often cracked at the corner of the slot; has anyone tried 
radiusing the slot corners to help prevent this? This is one of the 
things that cause the trafficator to sometimes rotate with the wheel 
(the other being no gap between the wheel hub and the trafficator hub).

Bob

On 9/6/2020 2:09 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Michael,
>
> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short 
> stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three 
> alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small 
> holes on the short stator tube.? The copper ground ring has to fit 
> around them too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> ??? I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> ??? refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> ??? having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>>
>> ??? 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> ??? attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> ??? head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> ??? stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> ??? which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> ??? there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> ??? attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> ??? invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> ??? something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>>
>> ??? 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> ??? stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> ??? force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> ??? etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> ??? cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> ??? buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> ??? to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>>
>> ??? Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> ??? I would like to get the car back on the road.
>>
>>
>> ??? Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>>
>>
>>


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep  6 15:40:42 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 17:40:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <f5581cb2-808f-9ff5-e7dc-876fc74f39c0@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <f5581cb2-808f-9ff5-e7dc-876fc74f39c0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9736a9c5-954e-1d41-3530-75c39dfc4c3e@earthlink.net>

Bob,

I've made a few, cutting the slot with a slotting saw and then dressing 
the end of the slot with an end mill to get the radius.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/6/20 5:32 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
> (Somewhat) on-topic: With the adjustable steering wheels, the (long) 
> stator tube is often cracked at the corner of the slot; has anyone 
> tried radiusing the slot corners to help prevent this? This is one of 
> the things that cause the trafficator to sometimes rotate with the 
> wheel (the other being no gap between the wheel hub and the 
> trafficator hub).
>
> Bob
>
> On 9/6/2020 2:09 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>> Michael,
>>
>> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the 
>> short stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are 
>> three alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit 
>> into small holes on the short stator tube.? The copper ground ring 
>> has to fit around them too.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> ??? I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>>> ??? refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>>> ??? having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>>>
>>> ??? 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>>> ??? attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>>> ??? head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>>> ??? stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>>> ??? which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>>> ??? there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>>> ??? attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>>> ??? invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>>> ??? something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>>>
>>> ??? 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>>> ??? stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>>> ??? force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>>> ??? etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>>> ??? cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>>> ??? buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>>> ??? to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>>>
>>> ??? Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>>> ??? I would like to get the car back on the road.
>>>
>>>
>>> ??? Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 18:10:57 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 20:10:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

That all makes sense and that explains the three smaller holes in the
stator tube disc but there were no alignment pins in the control head
when I removed it, nor were there holes for any.  I suppose I could
carefully drill some holes for pins once I get things assembled though they
were apparently not necessary prior to my removal.  In any case thanks for
the explanation.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:09 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short
> stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three
> alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small
> holes on the short stator tube.  The copper ground ring has to fit
> around them too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 18:50:16 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 17:50:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

Your trafficator was properly installed for 65 years with no problems, so
the fact that you cannot get enough bite so to speak on the screws is most
likely due to the fact that there are six holes in the back of the flat
plate of the StatorTube, and only three of them are countersunk to accept
the 4BA screws. It sounds to me like you used the wrong three holes!

BTW, Michael has a BN1 with a non-adjustable steering, so just the long
stator tube.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bob--
>
> That all makes sense and that explains the three smaller holes in the
> stator tube disc but there were no alignment pins in the control head
> when I removed it, nor were there holes for any.  I suppose I could
> carefully drill some holes for pins once I get things assembled though they
> were apparently not necessary prior to my removal.  In any case thanks for
> the explanation.
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:09 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>>
>> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short
>> stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three
>> alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small
>> holes on the short stator tube.  The copper ground ring has to fit
>> around them too.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 20:05:16 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 22:05:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>

Not all the switch base plates have the locating pins cast onto them. I
presume that it was recognized that the 3 screws were adequate to position
the stator top plate accurately.
I'm sure Michael would appreciate that the countersink screws would go in
the countersunk holes.
There's something we are missing here!!

M

On Sun., Sep. 6, 2020, 8:50 p.m. Curtis Arndt via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> Your trafficator was properly installed for 65 years with no problems, so
> the fact that you cannot get enough bite so to speak on the screws is most
> likely due to the fact that there are six holes in the back of the flat
> plate of the StatorTube, and only three of them are countersunk to accept
> the 4BA screws. It sounds to me like you used the wrong three holes!
>
> BTW, Michael has a BN1 with a non-adjustable steering, so just the long
> stator tube.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob--
>>
>> That all makes sense and that explains the three smaller holes in the
>> stator tube disc but there were no alignment pins in the control head
>> when I removed it, nor were there holes for any.  I suppose I could
>> carefully drill some holes for pins once I get things assembled though they
>> were apparently not necessary prior to my removal.  In any case thanks for
>> the explanation.
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:09 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael,
>>>
>>> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short
>>> stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three
>>> alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small
>>> holes on the short stator tube.  The copper ground ring has to fit
>>> around them too.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>>> >
>>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>>> >
>>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>>> >
>>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>>> >
>>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> >
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> >
>>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> >
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Sep  7 06:58:48 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 12:58:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>

I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.?Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are assembling the assembly?Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay in place.Gary Hodson? ?







On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
>? ? ?I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>? ? ?refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>? ? ?having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
>? ? ?1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>? ? ?attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>? ? ?head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>? ? ?stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>? ? ?which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>? ? ?there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>? ? ?attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>? ? ?invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>? ? ?something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
>? ? ?2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>? ? ?stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>? ? ?force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>? ? ?etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>? ? ?cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>? ? ?buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>? ? ?to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
>? ? ?Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>? ? ?I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
>? ? ?Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 07:38:49 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 06:38:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>

Gentlemen,

First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.

Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.

Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.

-Curt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
> issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
> stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 07:45:20 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 14:45:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Curt

So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as
well as 5BA as you correctly said.

Best regards

On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
>> issue I have 2 suggestions.
>> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
>> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
>> assembling the assembly?
>> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
>> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
>> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
>> stay in place.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 10:36:20 2020
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 12:36:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cover
Message-ID: <CADigPhQ2Y7+oOBRGVVUdmt+EWjem6DW2NwMZ43=nFe_8ejz5Bw@mail.gmail.com>

On a BN2 are the hinges for the battery cover placed above or below the
amarcord?
Thanks.

Joe
Finally getting to reassembling the 100M which of course is the reverse of
disassembly.
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 10:38:58 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 09:38:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cover
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhQ2Y7+oOBRGVVUdmt+EWjem6DW2NwMZ43=nFe_8ejz5Bw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhQ2Y7+oOBRGVVUdmt+EWjem6DW2NwMZ43=nFe_8ejz5Bw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+bJRP-HZfkR062By0-7dCdfue54HoQevPhbbPkYpmDhxA@mail.gmail.com>

Armacord covers the hinges
-Roland

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 9:37 AM Joseph Costa via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> On a BN2 are the hinges for the battery cover placed above or below the
> amarcord?
> Thanks.
>
> Joe
> Finally getting to reassembling the 100M which of course is the reverse of
> disassembly.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Sep  7 10:55:23 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 12:55:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Battery cover
References: <3C2B2B49-3CCE-4B35-B826-730BA1A2A652.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3C2B2B49-3CCE-4B35-B826-730BA1A2A652@aol.com>



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Sent from my iPhone

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 11:58:05 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 13:58:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>

   - I got everything together this morning.
   -
   - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
   shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional
   screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and
   somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the
   three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over
   locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any
   case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list
   and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the
   three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and
   into the trafficator.
   -
   - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
   split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me
   by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it
   home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
   -
   - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at all
   during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now
   ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
   -
   - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Curt
>
> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as
> well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.
>>
>> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>>
>> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
>> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
>>> issue I have 2 suggestions.
>>> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as
>>> common glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while
>>> you are assembling the assembly?
>>> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
>>> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
>>> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
>>> stay in place.
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>>> >
>>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>>> >
>>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>>> >
>>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>>> >
>>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> >
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> >
>>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> >
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Sep  7 16:29:23 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 18:29:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early 100-Six Engine
Message-ID: <mailman.68.1599517774.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

I have an early, probably late 1956, dismantled Longbridge 100-Six engine 1C H 34729 with most of the original bits.  It will need a rebuild for sure. If you have any interest let me know off list.  Going to check the bores and some of the other critical dimensions hopefully later this week.  
Perry
Located in western PA
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Sep  7 21:03:24 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 03:03:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
To: John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues


  *   I got everything together this morning.
  *
  *   I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the trafficator.
  *
  *   Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
  *
  *   This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
  *
  *   Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Curt

So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you correctly said.

Best regards

On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Gentlemen,

First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.

Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.

Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.

-Curt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are assembling the assembly?
Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay in place.
Gary Hodson




On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
>     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
>     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
>     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
>     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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--
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 21:37:10 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 23:37:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B77OcDpM6Hc2UJuniWY3rd_x3OPP7y791T_4UgGYiHOKg@mail.gmail.com>

Bill--

It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the
project.  it cam off with some difficulty.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If you
> put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
> *To:* John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>
>
>    - I got everything together this morning.
>    -
>    - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
>    shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional
>    screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and
>    somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the
>    three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over
>    locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any
>    case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list
>    and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the
>    three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and
>    into the trafficator.
>    -
>    - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
>    split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me
>    by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it
>    home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
>    -
>    - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at
>    all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now
>    ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
>    -
>    - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Curt
>
> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as
> well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
> issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
> stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep  7 21:57:29 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 20:57:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B77OcDpM6Hc2UJuniWY3rd_x3OPP7y791T_4UgGYiHOKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B77OcDpM6Hc2UJuniWY3rd_x3OPP7y791T_4UgGYiHOKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b0cffa1f-7055-cae3-0ac0-17ac39b82afc@comcast.net>

Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks 
come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.

On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> Bill--
>
> It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning 
> the project.? it cam off with some difficulty.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com 
> <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>     Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me.
>     If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to
>     remove it.
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael
>     Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
>     *To:* John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com
>     <mailto:ah100register at gmail.com>>
>     *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>
>       * I got everything together this morning.
>      *
>
>       * I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead
>         screws shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and
>         that three additional screws should pass through the plate on
>         the end of the stator tube and somehow thread into the holes
>         in the copper ring.? (Those holes and the three smaller holes
>         on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator
>         pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).? In
>         any case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks
>         over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the
>         error of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them
>         through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the
>         trafficator.
>      *
>
>       * Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should
>         be split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid
>         one sent to me by David Nock started onto the stator tube and
>         by using the nut I drove it home.? I'll finish lubing and
>         wiring tomorrow hopefully.
>      *
>
>       * This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once
>         if at all during our ownership but in case there is a "next
>         time" for me I am now ready and what took me hours will
>         probably take minutes.
>      *
>
>       * Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>
>
>     On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>         Curt
>
>         So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd
>         sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
>         Best regards
>
>         On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys
>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>             Gentlemen,
>
>             First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5
>             BA.? See attached.
>
>             Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment
>             pins.
>
>             Just use the correct three countersunk?holes in the stator
>             tube, get one started, center the switch on the plate, and
>             the rest will follow.
>
>             -Curt
>
>             On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com
>             <mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
>
>                 I have re-read your description of the problem & if I
>                 understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
>                 Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack
>                 glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin
>                 copper or brass piece in place while you are
>                 assembling the assembly?
>                 Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk
>                 screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, temporary
>                 "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be
>                 removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough
>                 that it would stay in place.
>                 Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
>                             On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via
>                             Healeys wrote:
>                             >
>                             >? ? ?I sent my trafficator/horn assembly
>                             off to Curt Arndt for
>                             >? ? ?refurbishing and got it back in
>                             great condition. However I am
>                             >? ? ?having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>                             >
>                             >? ? ?1. I have fed the wires down the
>                             stator tube and am ready to
>                             >? ? ?attach the trafficator assembly
>                             which is done via three #4BA flat
>                             >? ? ?head machine screws that go through
>                             the countersunk holes in the
>                             >? ? ?stator tube end plate and pick up
>                             the thin copper or brass piece
>                             >? ? ?which resembles a spring washer.
>                             Because of the piece's thinness
>                             >? ? ?there is really only one thread of
>                             engagement and whenever I
>                             >? ? ?attempt to push the head/tube home
>                             into its final position I
>                             >? ? ?invariably dislodge one of the
>                             screws from the head. Am I doing
>                             >? ? ?something wrong here or am I simply
>                             being ham-handed?
>                             >
>                             >? ? ?2. Is there a trick to getting the
>                             olive over the end of the
>                             >? ? ?stator tube as I cannot get it
>                             started and before I start exerting
>                             >? ? ?force I thought I would enquire
>                             whether it needs to be heated,
>                             >? ? ?etc. Getting the old one off was not
>                             easy and i would up having to
>                             >? ? ?cut it with a dremel tool. It is
>                             possible that I have slightly
>                             >? ? ?buggered the end of the stator tube
>                             and wonder if perhaps I need
>                             >? ? ?to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>                             >
>                             >? ? ?Any help will be
>                             appreciated--weather is beginning to cool
>                             off and
>                             >? ? ?I would like to get the car back on
>                             the road.
>                             >
>                             >
>                             >? ? ?Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>                             >
>                             >
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Sep  7 22:16:34 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 04:16:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <b0cffa1f-7055-cae3-0ac0-17ac39b82afc@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B77OcDpM6Hc2UJuniWY3rd_x3OPP7y791T_4UgGYiHOKg@mail.gmail.com>,
 <b0cffa1f-7055-cae3-0ac0-17ac39b82afc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB22137EEBBEE8E74080A21DD5A5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Ferrules are designed to crimp onto the tube and seal. Just don?t mistake one for an olive.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 3:57 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues

Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.

On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
Bill--

It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the project.  it cam off with some difficulty.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
To: John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com<mailto:ah100register at gmail.com>>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues


  *   I got everything together this morning.
  *
  *   I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the trafficator.
  *
  *   Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
  *
  *   This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
  *
  *   Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Curt

So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you correctly said.

Best regards

On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Gentlemen,

First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.

Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.

Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.

-Curt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are assembling the assembly?
Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay in place.
Gary Hodson




On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
>     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
>     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
>     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
>     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 22:21:56 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 00:21:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <b0cffa1f-7055-cae3-0ac0-17ac39b82afc@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPTa0B77OcDpM6Hc2UJuniWY3rd_x3OPP7y791T_4UgGYiHOKg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b0cffa1f-7055-cae3-0ac0-17ac39b82afc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5-ek80=txzP1FVfo3p2Nz2eQOoW5zFZDSVM6Ce1tE0Pw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob asked "Why wouldn't you use a split olive?"

Bob--I called David Nock's place and they sent me the solid one, which was
just like the solid one that was on the car before I started this project.
 Not until after it arrived did anyone mention that split olives were
available and even then some folks said solid and some split (I hate it
when Mommy and Daddy argue). In any case it is in place and hopefully
that's where it will spend a nice and tight life.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks
> come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.
>
> On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
> Bill--
>
> It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the
> project.  it cam off with some difficulty.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If you
>> put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>> Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
>> *To:* John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>>
>>
>>    - I got everything together this morning.
>>    -
>>    - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
>>    shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional
>>    screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and
>>    somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the
>>    three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over
>>    locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any
>>    case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list
>>    and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the
>>    three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and
>>    into the trafficator.
>>    -
>>    - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
>>    split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me
>>    by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it
>>    home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
>>    -
>>    - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at
>>    all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now
>>    ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
>>    -
>>    - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA
>> as well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See
>> attached.
>>
>> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>>
>> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
>> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
>> issue I have 2 suggestions.
>> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
>> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
>> assembling the assembly?
>> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
>> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
>> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
>> stay in place.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 06:15:17 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 08:15:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1OyxeJ5JzYoApSHUWCM6zsbTnVZ-Pna1z3bkAft+0+HWft1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B6NWF4ct=ecGtA2Ut3gaYnxLgWfzy75S7G3DNuY7fTeDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB221343F795CF5E7C0B924E1BA5290@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLC6RqonMgcz2aeEHEjJtmUKs_Jdfu1DhKWsG7kc1FxRA@mail.gmail.com>

Quite true, but a thin cutting blade on a Dremel makes short work of them
??

M

On Mon., Sep. 7, 2020, 11:03 p.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Careful of the solid ?olive?. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If you
> put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
> *To:* John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>
>
>    - I got everything together this morning.
>    -
>    - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
>    shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional
>    screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and
>    somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring.  (Those holes and the
>    three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over
>    locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.).  In any
>    case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this list
>    and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the
>    three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and
>    into the trafficator.
>    -
>    - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
>    split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me
>    by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it
>    home.  I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
>    -
>    - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at
>    all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now
>    ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
>    -
>    - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Curt
>
> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as
> well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
> issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
> stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 12:27:56 2020
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 14:27:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 interior Questions
Message-ID: <AFD92BEE-E8DF-4FB5-AADB-E023970DF527@gmail.com>

I am redoing the console in my car. There are chrome strips along the sides attached with a ?key like? fastener.  Also, the vinyl covering has a padding attached to it. 

Where can I buy the fasteners and padded vinyl?

Thank you for your help. 

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Sep  9 13:50:01 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 19:50:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale
In-Reply-To: <1355234625.5493503.1594398533860@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <355296623.1765866.1589244467819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <355296623.1765866.1589244467819@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1355234625.5493503.1594398533860@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <917063442.413978.1599681001084@mail.yahoo.com>

Still have these available.? Make me a reasonable offer to include shipping.Keith


-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 10, 2020 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale

PRICE CUT!!!!? ALL FOR $60 INCLUDING SHIPPING.? FIRST 60 WINS EM.Keith


-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 8:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale

Listers,Have decided to part with these.? L and R.? Both have VG chrome but one has small dent on housing.? Both will need mirrors replaced.? Diameter is 5 inch.Also included are two aftermarket pieces.? One is just the head with no stem.? 4.5 inch diameter.? Good chrome.Other is complete with SS head and somewhat corroded stem.? 4.25 inch diameter.Selling as a lot, no separations.? $125 for all.? Free shipping to lower 48.Email offline with any Qs.? I have 3 other pix I can send to serious inquiries.Keithllennep at Verizon.net_______________________________________________
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 08:34:02 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 10:34:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I drove my 66 BJ8 Saturday and Sunday, everything was normal.  Glorious
weather in the North Carolina mountains.  Monday everything became
strange.

I put the key in the ignition and started the car in the normal manner.  I
then realized that many things were not working.  The car started normally,
the ignition light came on and went off as it should, overdrive works,
headlights work, high beam light works, the alternator is charging the
battery properly and the fuses are not blown.

These are the things that I know are not working: gas gauge, turn signals,
tach, wipers, brake lights and front parking lights (the rear are working).

I have looked at the wiring diagram and I am at a loss.  Where do I start
looking for this problem?

Help,

Fred
66 BJ8
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From gilrockwell at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 14:22:11 2020
From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 16:22:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <019401d686e6$e6b96c80$b42c4580$@gmail.com>

First thing I?d check is for rodent damage to the wiring under the car.  Seen this happen a lot, squirrels (and there are plenty in NC) seem to like the plastic or rubber/cloth coverings for the wires.  May not be your case, but worth a close inspection in any case.  

 

Gil

61 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2020 10:34 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue

 

Listers,

 

I drove my 66 BJ8 Saturday and Sunday, everything was normal.  Glorious weather in the North Carolina mountains.  Monday everything became strange.  

 

I put the key in the ignition and started the car in the normal manner.  I then realized that many things were not working.  The car started normally, the ignition light came on and went off as it should, overdrive works, headlights work, high beam light works, the alternator is charging the battery properly and the fuses are not blown.  

 

These are the things that I know are not working: gas gauge, turn signals, tach, wipers, brake lights and front parking lights (the rear are working).

 

I have looked at the wiring diagram and I am at a loss.  Where do I start looking for this problem?

 

Help,

 

Fred

66 BJ8

 



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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 15:03:06 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 17:03:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
In-Reply-To: <019401d686e6$e6b96c80$b42c4580$@gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <019401d686e6$e6b96c80$b42c4580$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1599685392.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

I going with a black wire ground problem.  You have several item not working that get power from multiple secondary sources. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Gil Rockwell
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 4:22 PM
To: 'Fred Wescoe'; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue

First thing I?d check is for rodent damage to the wiring under the car.? Seen this happen a lot, squirrels (and there are plenty in NC) seem to like the plastic or rubber/cloth coverings for the wires.? May not be your case, but worth a close inspection in any case.? 

Gil
61 BT7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2020 10:34 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue

Listers,

I drove my 66 BJ8 Saturday and Sunday, everything was normal.? Glorious weather in the North Carolina mountains.? Monday everything became strange.? 

I put the key in the ignition and started the car in the normal manner.? I then realized that many things were not working.? The car started normally, the ignition light came on and went off as it should, overdrive works, headlights work, high beam light works, the alternator is charging the battery properly and the fuses are not blown.? 

These are the things that I know are not working: gas gauge, turn signals, tach, wipers, brake lights and front parking lights (the rear are working).

I have looked at the wiring diagram and I am at a loss.? Where do I start looking for this problem?

Help,

Fred
66 BJ8




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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 15:46:21 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 17:46:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 interior Questions
In-Reply-To: <AFD92BEE-E8DF-4FB5-AADB-E023970DF527@gmail.com>
References: <AFD92BEE-E8DF-4FB5-AADB-E023970DF527@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL3uKD9HPAVvpvDVSbdgBpUUfDDnrh6Qmb7owZw4KU7+w@mail.gmail.com>

The chrome straps are secured with tiny "T" headed screws and nuts. I would
guess about 10BA if there is such a size. They are most unusual fasteners
and are about 3/4" long from memory.
The foam is about 1/8" thick and readily available from upholstery shops
... it is used on door cards.

M


On Wed., Sep. 9, 2020, 2:28 p.m. R. Lindsay, <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am redoing the console in my car. There are chrome strips along the
> sides attached with a ?key like? fastener.  Also, the vinyl covering has a
> padding attached to it.
>
> Where can I buy the fasteners and padded vinyl?
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Sep  9 16:05:21 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 18:05:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ce01d686f5$50469200$f0d3b600$@rr.com>

Fuel gauge, tachometer, turn signals, wipers, brake lights, and the heater blower all operate off of the top fuse in the fuse box.  If it is not blown, it may not be making good electrical contact.

I got tired of chasing the circuit that caused that fuse to blow, so I added an auxiliary fuse box under the dash and broke all of those circuits (except heater blower) out each with its own fuse.  Sure does make troubleshooting a lot easier and quicker.

By the way, the modification was made without cutting the original wiring harness so it is completely reversible.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 10:34 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue

 

Listers,

 

I drove my 66 BJ8 Saturday and Sunday, everything was normal.  Glorious weather in the North Carolina mountains.  Monday everything became strange.  

 

I put the key in the ignition and started the car in the normal manner.  I then realized that many things were not working.  The car started normally, the ignition light came on and went off as it should, overdrive works, headlights work, high beam light works, the alternator is charging the battery properly and the fuses are not blown.  

 

These are the things that I know are not working: gas gauge, turn signals, tach, wipers, brake lights and front parking lights (the rear are working).

 

I have looked at the wiring diagram and I am at a loss.  Where do I start looking for this problem?

 

Help,

 

Fred

66 BJ8

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 16:34:13 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 18:34:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
In-Reply-To: <00ce01d686f5$50469200$f0d3b600$@rr.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5AtmZi_zsH3DSxz6n7wmiyp23oU=RR9sGLKesQUmBtLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <00ce01d686f5$50469200$f0d3b600$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKevBmr2UrOLOCNOZ71HNEm4egZsURTSi_+sg3SUeHNng@mail.gmail.com>

It's the front parking lights that have me confused.??

On Wed., Sep. 9, 2020, 6:06 p.m. Max Byers, <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Fuel gauge, tachometer, turn signals, wipers, brake lights, and the heater
> blower all operate off of the top fuse in the fuse box.  If it is not
> blown, it may not be making good electrical contact.
>
> I got tired of chasing the circuit that caused that fuse to blow, so I
> added an auxiliary fuse box under the dash and broke all of those circuits
> (except heater blower) out each with its own fuse.  Sure does make
> troubleshooting a lot easier and quicker.
>
> By the way, the modification was made without cutting the original wiring
> harness so it is completely reversible.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Wescoe
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 8, 2020 10:34 AM
> *To:* healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> I drove my 66 BJ8 Saturday and Sunday, everything was normal.  Glorious
> weather in the North Carolina mountains.  Monday everything became
> strange.
>
>
>
> I put the key in the ignition and started the car in the normal manner.  I
> then realized that many things were not working.  The car started normally,
> the ignition light came on and went off as it should, overdrive works,
> headlights work, high beam light works, the alternator is charging the
> battery properly and the fuses are not blown.
>
>
>
> These are the things that I know are not working: gas gauge, turn signals,
> tach, wipers, brake lights and front parking lights (the rear are working).
>
>
>
> I have looked at the wiring diagram and I am at a loss.  Where do I start
> looking for this problem?
>
>
>
> Help,
>
>
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  9 18:24:28 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 00:24:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 interior Questions
In-Reply-To: <AFD92BEE-E8DF-4FB5-AADB-E023970DF527@gmail.com>
References: <AFD92BEE-E8DF-4FB5-AADB-E023970DF527@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278F6E5A955556192572563D1270@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Price,
I just saw someone on Facebook that was looking for some of these bars, apparently they are backorder right now for several weeks.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: R. Lindsay<mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com>
Sent: September 9, 2020 1:28 PM
To: Healey List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 interior Questions

I am redoing the console in my car. There are chrome strips along the sides attached with a ?key like? fastener.  Also, the vinyl covering has a padding attached to it.

Where can I buy the fasteners and padded vinyl?

Thank you for your help.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7C7038ee27e5e840658c5208d854ee3325%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637352729315554095&amp;sdata=wchIhkKJqoaDE6gdru6YIal0YvWkBW2JW%2BNkZrGUhtw%3D&amp;reserved=0
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Wed Sep  9 19:10:51 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 11:10:51 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Best 100M
Message-ID: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

A month or so back a 100M was advertised saying that it was the 'best 100M
in the world'.

 

Does anyone recall the advertisement and hopefully lead me to it.

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 08:22:37 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 10:22:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Best 100M
In-Reply-To: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>
References: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcSd9Aea07+HNqmcdNJamkNT4hwQNViJDt4uRSH-nTiPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thinking of buying a new car, Patrick?  ?

Any idea if it was an advertisement or part of an auction site?

Cheers,
Rick Neville

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On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 9:13 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> A month or so back a 100M was advertised saying that it was the ?best 100M
> in the world?.
>
>
>
> Does anyone recall the advertisement and hopefully lead me to it.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 14:31:25 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 16:31:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V7fDPPyYJ=_OzrB=E7iMwTteMqTT1f=Mr=DXpcmrZOhQg@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

First, thanks to all who responded to my electrical dilemma.  Many people
thought the fuse was the culprit.

I did finally resolve the issue, discovering several causes.

Using the wiring diagram, I started at the solenoid, all the way to the
fuse block and discovered a frayed wire with a corroded connector at the 35
amp fuse.  I corrected and cleaned that connection and when I turned the
key, the 35 amp fuse instantly blew, I obviously couldn't see it happen but
it blew.  Maybe it was blown and I didn't realize it.  The break in the
fuse link was at the very end of the fuse therefore hard to see.  I kept
checking circuits and eventually found a short circuited flasher unit.  I
had switched to LED lights throughout the car a couple of years ago and
used an electronic flasher from SuperBright bulbs.  I replaced that flasher
with an original Lucas flasher, inserted a new 35 amp fuse and
everything was back to normal.  Actually, I was surprised that the Lucas
flasher worked with the LEDs.

Once again, I am impressed with the wisdom and help offered and by the list.

By the way, I called SuperBright to order a new flasher and much to my
surprise, they are sending a free replacement, as long as I send the
original back to them.  I guess they want to discover the cause.  They do
have a 2 year guarantee (they told me about it) on all their electronic
items, no questions asked.  I was impressed and I don't own their stock.

Thanks for all the help,

Fred

66BJ8
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Sep 10 19:21:53 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 18:21:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V7fDPPyYJ=_OzrB=E7iMwTteMqTT1f=Mr=DXpcmrZOhQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7fDPPyYJ=_OzrB=E7iMwTteMqTT1f=Mr=DXpcmrZOhQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02e201d687d9$ef01e4a0$cd05ade0$@roadrunner.com>

Glad you got it fixed.  I buy most of my LEDs from SuperbrightLED.com.  I?ve always found them very helpful when I had questions, particularly when I switched my reflector conversion from halogens to LEDs.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 1:31 PM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Severe electrical issue

 

Listers,

 

First, thanks to all who responded to my electrical dilemma.  Many people thought the fuse was the culprit.

 

I did finally resolve the issue, discovering several causes.  

 

Using the wiring diagram, I started at the solenoid, all the way to the fuse block and discovered a frayed wire with a corroded connector at the 35 amp fuse.  I corrected and cleaned that connection and when I turned the key, the 35 amp fuse instantly blew, I obviously couldn't see it happen but it blew.  Maybe it was blown and I didn't realize it.  The break in the fuse link was at the very end of the fuse therefore hard to see.  I kept checking circuits and eventually found a short circuited flasher unit.  I had switched to LED lights throughout the car a couple of years ago and used an electronic flasher from SuperBright bulbs.  I replaced that flasher with an original Lucas flasher, inserted a new 35 amp fuse and everything was back to normal.  Actually, I was surprised that the Lucas flasher worked with the LEDs.

 

Once again, I am impressed with the wisdom and help offered and by the list.

 

By the way, I called SuperBright to order a new flasher and much to my surprise, they are sending a free replacement, as long as I send the original back to them.  I guess they want to discover the cause.  They do have a 2 year guarantee (they told me about it) on all their electronic items, no questions asked.  I was impressed and I don't own their stock.

 

Thanks for all the help,

 

Fred

 

66BJ8

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 01:42:25 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 15:42:25 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Best 100M
In-Reply-To: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>
References: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+QpeBpN72VmiNwHNyhiFbJCbA+9oVdkstjWfa_E=Gr5w@mail.gmail.com>

I know someone who owns the best BN3 in the world.

On Thu, Sep 10, 2020 at 9:13 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> A month or so back a 100M was advertised saying that it was the ?best 100M
> in the world?.
>
>
>
> Does anyone recall the advertisement and hopefully lead me to it.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Sep 11 05:57:03 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 21:57:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Best 100M
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+QpeBpN72VmiNwHNyhiFbJCbA+9oVdkstjWfa_E=Gr5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <008601d6870f$3a4bbe70$aee33b50$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAFBXTk+QpeBpN72VmiNwHNyhiFbJCbA+9oVdkstjWfa_E=Gr5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <012001d68832$aabaf5d0$0030e170$@tpg.com.au>

Well, being one of the few who have seen both the BN3/1 and the BN3/4 I would have to say that it?s neck and neck. However our car, the BN3/1 is together, while BN3/4 is separated from its engine/gearbox as it?s on show at the Healey Museum. BN3/1 is on show within our converted milking barn.

 

Both very interesting cars and also both share space with a Healey Duncan.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, 11 September 2020 5:42 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best 100M

 

I know someone who owns the best BN3 in the world.

 

On Thu, Sep 10, 2020 at 9:13 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

Hello

 

A month or so back a 100M was advertised saying that it was the ?best 100M in the world?.

 

Does anyone recall the advertisement and hopefully lead me to it.

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 12 07:45:48 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 13:45:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft. shroud questions
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

The ft. shroud attaches to the front fenders via a flat bracket that is slightly adjustable by two bolts/nuts and attached to the top of the fender.  The fender bolt goes through the bracket, the shroud, and into the fender/ clip.  I have always thought the shroud was attached to that flat bracket by a pop rivet, but when looking at another shroud I see a machine screw/ nut where the nut is on the inside toward the engine compartment (appears original).  Was it originally attached with a machine screw/ nut?

I have found several missing holes on my front shroud (BN2). Examples: No holes for bonnet rubber pads. No drain holes (2) at the front of the bonnet opening drain channel.  No holes for the above question.  I'm kinda thinking maybe it was a replacement shroud early on?  Anyone run into this?

Thanks all.  Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 08:04:40 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 07:04:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft. shroud questions
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+YGJWBMP6MKby_GFTDSQxGPh1BWr4XbhfyD=_p6+CZYwA@mail.gmail.com>

Four screws per bracket. No pop rivets there
-Roland

On Sat, Sep 12, 2020, 6:51 AM S and T Miller via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The ft. shroud attaches to the front fenders via a flat bracket that is
> slightly adjustable by two bolts/nuts and attached to the top of the
> fender.  The fender bolt goes through the bracket, the shroud, and into the
> fender/ clip.  I have always thought the shroud was attached to that flat
> bracket by a pop rivet, but when looking at another shroud I see a machine
> screw/ nut where the nut is on the inside toward the engine compartment
> (appears original).  Was it originally attached with a machine screw/ nut?
>
> I have found several missing holes on my front shroud (BN2). Examples: No
> holes for bonnet rubber pads. No drain holes (2) at the front of the bonnet
> opening drain channel.  No holes for the above question.  I'm kinda
> thinking maybe it was a replacement shroud early on?  Anyone run into this?
>
> Thanks all.  Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Sep 12 10:40:42 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 09:40:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
Message-ID: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>

In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker
assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two
working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a
different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one
of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal tube
bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate. I
assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal tube
using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve would
allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be aligned
to the the lock on the door and tightened.
 
Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers and
how they should be arranged?
 
I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is the
only item I am sure is wrong.
 
Thanks .... Harold
 
 
 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep 12 10:55:40 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 12:55:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft shroud questions
References: <9363BFC5-7094-43BF-B123-8490A46E9FD4.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9363BFC5-7094-43BF-B123-8490A46E9FD4@aol.com>

Two brackets secure each side of the front shroud, the L shaped one closest to the engine and the flat bracket.  Flat bracket does have a rivet and on several others has two rivers. Hard to get a good photo. 

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Sent from my iPhone

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep 12 11:04:57 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 13:04:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft. shroud questions
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1599930306.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

Shawn
Regarding new  or replacement shrouds, my only experience is with a partial shroud many decades ago. As I recall there where no drilled or punched holes in it.
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: S and T Miller via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2020 9:51 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft. shroud questions

The ft. shroud attaches to the front fenders via a flat bracket that is slightly adjustable by two bolts/nuts and attached to the top of the fender.? The fender bolt goes through the bracket, the shroud, and into the fender/ clip.? I have always thought the shroud was attached to that flat bracket by a pop rivet, but when looking at another shroud I see a machine screw/ nut where the nut is on the inside toward the engine compartment (appears original).? Was it originally attached with a machine screw/ nut?

I have found several missing holes on my front shroud (BN2). Examples: No holes for bonnet rubber pads. No drain holes (2) at the front of the bonnet opening drain channel.? No holes for the above question.? I'm kinda thinking maybe it was a replacement shroud early on?? Anyone run into this?

Thanks all.? Shawn

The Millers
?
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 11:58:04 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 18:58:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxe9jwiPgDPjZpPHY1+0bzqRiLp7grQtnMCG=-V5h1aTwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Harold

Just a word of warning. All of your three 'wedges' look OK but it is worth
checking that the secondary notch is OK and deep enough. I bought some a
few years ago that had little or no depth to this notch. I had to file a
deeper groove because as it was if you did not close the door fully it
could fly open; not being caught on the secondary latch as it should have
been. This could have been dangerous with the door opened whilst driving.

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 at 17:44, Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker
> assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two
> working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a
> different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one
> of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal
> tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate.
> I assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal
> tube using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve
> would allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be
> aligned to the the lock on the door and tightened.
>
> Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers and
> how they should be arranged?
>
> I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is the
> only item I am sure is wrong.
>
> Thanks .... Harold
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From 55healey at comcast.net  Sat Sep 12 12:21:20 2020
From: 55healey at comcast.net (55healey at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 11:21:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxe9jwiPgDPjZpPHY1+0bzqRiLp7grQtnMCG=-V5h1aTwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
 <CAL1Oyxe9jwiPgDPjZpPHY1+0bzqRiLp7grQtnMCG=-V5h1aTwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A9F58AC2-3F02-432F-B4EF-B85344C82662@comcast.net>

Been there, done that.  Almost lost my best friend on a hard left turn.  Thank goodness for seatbelts.


> On Sep 12, 2020, at 10:58 AM, John Harper via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Harold
> 
> Just a word of warning. All of your three 'wedges' look OK but it is worth checking that the secondary notch is OK and deep enough. I bought some a few years ago that had little or no depth to this notch. I had to file a deeper groove because as it was if you did not close the door fully it could fly open; not being caught on the secondary latch as it should have been. This could have been dangerous with the door opened whilst driving.


From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 12 12:31:48 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 18:31:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <SA0PR22MB22865E060C1EA1BF522B4806D1250@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Harold,
Yes there is a metal tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is bonded to the mounting plate. And the latch is aligned to the door on the lock. Hopefully it was fitted before, as part of the restoration and that all you have to do is put it in place where it was fitted before.
However, if this was not the case, you first have to determine how many aluminum packing plates you will need for the striker assembly to be located where it should. These packing plates go between the door shut panel and the aluminum trim, once you have determined that, then you can  install your striking assembly.
Looking at the pieces you have in the attached photo, I enlarged it for clarity, I would say that the bottom one in the photo is suitable to use but the other two I certainly would not use again, they appear worn and damaged and likely will not give you many years of service.
As far as the washers to use behind the acorn nut, I use one flat washer and one star washer.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Harold Manifold via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: September 12, 2020 11:54 AM
To: 'healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?

In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate. I assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal tube using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve would allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be aligned to the the lock on the door and tightened.

Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers and how they should be arranged?

I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is the only item I am sure is wrong.

Thanks .... Harold




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From tappiokie at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 13:18:42 2020
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 15:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut Specs
Message-ID: <682018c3-49b1-1785-345c-01f35e936fb0@gmail.com>

Does anyone know the exact specifications for the castellated nut on the 
stub axle on a BJ8? It may be 11/16 but unknown thread size.? Thanks, Jim


From tappiokie at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 14:57:18 2020
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 16:57:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKp6r7aE=6F5-nwig=Bdj+u-Cq42P8OtZvxH2tSa8Q0XQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKp6r7aE=6F5-nwig=Bdj+u-Cq42P8OtZvxH2tSa8Q0XQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1275d242-fefd-2f7b-aea9-1fac9ff035e3@gmail.com>

Hi Mike - I am trying to clean up the threads on the stub axles on a 
friend's BJ8 and can't figure out the size and thread count. Do you 
know? Is there a die available to do the job? Thanks, Jim


From tappiokie at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 15:36:35 2020
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 17:36:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
In-Reply-To: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>
References: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>

Hi Steve - I am looking for info on BJ8 stub axles, specifically the 
exact dimensions and whether a die exists to clean up the threads. This 
is for another car with buggered nuts. Any idea? Thanks, Jim


From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 16:08:50 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 15:08:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 ft. shroud questions
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+YGJWBMP6MKby_GFTDSQxGPh1BWr4XbhfyD=_p6+CZYwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881C4B9983EAD6806C38FADD4250@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <CADpDe+YGJWBMP6MKby_GFTDSQxGPh1BWr4XbhfyD=_p6+CZYwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <pjhqlfdkvkk7h6jpsqtr8nc7buuamrc69b@4ax.com>

Sorry, I misread the question and answered something you didn't ask
about: the shroud to front frame.  Gotta slow down my reading.
 -Roland

On Sat, 12 Sep 2020 07:04:40 -0700, you wrote:

>Four screws per bracket. No pop rivets there
>-Roland
>
>On Sat, Sep 12, 2020, 6:51 AM S and T Miller via Healeys <
>healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The ft. shroud attaches to the front fenders via a flat bracket that is
>> slightly adjustable by two bolts/nuts and attached to the top of the
>> fender.  The fender bolt goes through the bracket, the shroud, and into the
>> fender/ clip.  I have always thought the shroud was attached to that flat
>> bracket by a pop rivet, but when looking at another shroud I see a machine
>> screw/ nut where the nut is on the inside toward the engine compartment
>> (appears original).  Was it originally attached with a machine screw/ nut?
>>
>> I have found several missing holes on my front shroud (BN2). Examples: No
>> holes for bonnet rubber pads. No drain holes (2) at the front of the bonnet
>> opening drain channel.  No holes for the above question.  I'm kinda
>> thinking maybe it was a replacement shroud early on?  Anyone run into this?
>>
>> Thanks all.  Shawn
>>
>> The Millers
>>
>> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
>> drive."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>>
>>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Sep 12 16:20:32 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 18:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
In-Reply-To: <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>
References: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>
 <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <43c83227-97e3-0bf0-2605-e49a6010d5d9@earthlink.net>

Jim/Steve/Mike?,

The threads are 11/16"-16tpi.? Rethreading dies are available from 
places like MSC - http://mscdirect.com.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/12/20 5:36 PM, Jim Cox via Healeys wrote:
> Hi Steve - I am looking for info on BJ8 stub axles, specifically the 
> exact dimensions and whether a die exists to clean up the threads. 
> This is for another car with buggered nuts. Any idea? Thanks, Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From tappiokie at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 17:21:47 2020
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 19:21:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
In-Reply-To: <43c83227-97e3-0bf0-2605-e49a6010d5d9@earthlink.net>
References: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>
 <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>
 <43c83227-97e3-0bf0-2605-e49a6010d5d9@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <f22fbc7e-611d-49fc-8a8f-7f8d815b38fd@gmail.com>

Thanks Bob. I knew someone would have this figured out! I appreciate ti. Jim



On 9/12/2020 6:20 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Jim/Steve/Mike?,
>
> The threads are 11/16"-16tpi.? Rethreading dies are available from 
> places like MSC - http://mscdirect.com.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 9/12/20 5:36 PM, Jim Cox via Healeys wrote:
>> Hi Steve - I am looking for info on BJ8 stub axles, specifically the 
>> exact dimensions and whether a die exists to clean up the threads. 
>> This is for another car with buggered nuts. Any idea? Thanks, Jim
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 20:24:22 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 22:24:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <SA0PR22MB22865E060C1EA1BF522B4806D1250@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
 <SA0PR22MB22865E060C1EA1BF522B4806D1250@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJYGp3JHdm06qn6LuoU=T4qaakxgcrUqCm8bLet1X_iNA@mail.gmail.com>

Actually the thin metal tube is the outer sleeve of a small Metalastic
bush, they have a thin metal sleeve on the inner diameter as well.
I have searched the world for replacement bushes without luck ?
With a Metalastic bush the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeve
(Metalastic were masters at bonding steel to rubber) and it is that bonding
which makes the striker work properly.

M

On Sat., Sep. 12, 2020, 2:54 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Harold,
>
> Yes there is a metal tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is bonded to the
> mounting plate. And the latch is aligned to the door on the lock. Hopefully
> it was fitted before, as part of the restoration and that all you have to
> do is put it in place where it was fitted before.
>
> However, if this was not the case, you first have to determine how many
> aluminum packing plates you will need for the striker assembly to be
> located where it should. These packing plates go between the door shut
> panel and the aluminum trim, once you have determined that, then you can
>  install your striking assembly.
>
> Looking at the pieces you have in the attached photo, I enlarged it for
> clarity, I would say that the bottom one in the photo is suitable to use
> but the other two I certainly would not use again, they appear worn and
> damaged and likely will not give you many years of service.
>
> As far as the washers to use behind the acorn nut, I use one flat washer
> and one star washer.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *September 12, 2020 11:54 AM
> *To: *'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
>
>
>
> In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker
> assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two
> working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a
> different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one
> of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal
> tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate.
> I assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal
> tube using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve
> would allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be
> aligned to the the lock on the door and tightened.
>
>
>
> Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers and
> how they should be arranged?
>
>
>
> I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is the
> only item I am sure is wrong.
>
>
>
> Thanks .... Harold
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 03:14:04 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 10:14:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJYGp3JHdm06qn6LuoU=T4qaakxgcrUqCm8bLet1X_iNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
 <SA0PR22MB22865E060C1EA1BF522B4806D1250@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJYGp3JHdm06qn6LuoU=T4qaakxgcrUqCm8bLet1X_iNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxcv2ctUwK3p=_tH37eDQV_dBOy+8YL+r3QNEqjAXig-kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael

They are very similar but smaller that the SILENT BLOCK in the rear road
springs.

On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 at 03:48, Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Actually the thin metal tube is the outer sleeve of a small Metalastic
> bush, they have a thin metal sleeve on the inner diameter as well.
> I have searched the world for replacement bushes without luck ?
> With a Metalastic bush the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeve
> (Metalastic were masters at bonding steel to rubber) and it is that bonding
> which makes the striker work properly.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Sep. 12, 2020, 2:54 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Harold,
>>
>> Yes there is a metal tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is bonded to
>> the mounting plate. And the latch is aligned to the door on the lock.
>> Hopefully it was fitted before, as part of the restoration and that all you
>> have to do is put it in place where it was fitted before.
>>
>> However, if this was not the case, you first have to determine how many
>> aluminum packing plates you will need for the striker assembly to be
>> located where it should. These packing plates go between the door shut
>> panel and the aluminum trim, once you have determined that, then you can
>>  install your striking assembly.
>>
>> Looking at the pieces you have in the attached photo, I enlarged it for
>> clarity, I would say that the bottom one in the photo is suitable to use
>> but the other two I certainly would not use again, they appear worn and
>> damaged and likely will not give you many years of service.
>>
>> As far as the washers to use behind the acorn nut, I use one flat washer
>> and one star washer.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jean
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *September 12, 2020 11:54 AM
>> *To: *'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
>>
>>
>>
>> In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker
>> assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two
>> working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a
>> different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one
>> of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal
>> tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate.
>> I assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal
>> tube using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve
>> would allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be
>> aligned to the the lock on the door and tightened.
>>
>>
>>
>> Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers and
>> how they should be arranged?
>>
>>
>>
>> I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is
>> the only item I am sure is wrong.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks .... Harold
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 13 05:38:02 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 07:38:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2
In-Reply-To: <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>
References: <001e01ca8a4d$6ef33d30$4cd9b790$@rr.com>
 <28507e62-0386-54f6-1edc-4dd7a5a958df@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00e001d689c2$56fc3bc0$04f4b340$@rr.com>

Sorry, Jim, I am a bit late to the party.  The threads are 11/16" x 16
threads per inch.  If the nut threads are messed up I think new nuts are
available.  If it's the stub axle threads, an alternative to a die would be
a thread file.
I needed to dress the stripped threads on an MG Midget rear axle housing and
found a thread file on-line to do the job.  It has cutters for 11, 12, 13,
14, 16, 18, 20 and 24 tpi on it.  It is useful when a die doesn't exist or
the size is too large for a die.

Cheers!
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Cox
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2020 5:37 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] stub axles, Part 2

Hi Steve - I am looking for info on BJ8 stub axles, specifically the 
exact dimensions and whether a die exists to clean up the threads. This 
is for another car with buggered nuts. Any idea? Thanks, Jim

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 07:14:21 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:14:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxcv2ctUwK3p=_tH37eDQV_dBOy+8YL+r3QNEqjAXig-kQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E4F9CB8384FD4DBAA10F4A445CD55700@AllInOne>
 <SA0PR22MB22865E060C1EA1BF522B4806D1250@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LJYGp3JHdm06qn6LuoU=T4qaakxgcrUqCm8bLet1X_iNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1Oyxcv2ctUwK3p=_tH37eDQV_dBOy+8YL+r3QNEqjAXig-kQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLf6Cp3=Uz14cz8eAVm7-n4EzO2K66=Eb_GxQv4U50GjA@mail.gmail.com>

Exactly John. Very small versions of the same thing.
I have, in the past, cut up badly corroded strikers to recover the bushes
but a word of caution if you are contemplating this. The bush will be
destroyed by the slightest amount of heat and the bonding will release.
HAND TOOLS ONLY.

M

On Sun., Sep. 13, 2020, 5:14 a.m. John Harper, <ah100register at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Michael
>
> They are very similar but smaller that the SILENT BLOCK in the rear road
> springs.
>
> On Sun, 13 Sep 2020 at 03:48, Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Actually the thin metal tube is the outer sleeve of a small Metalastic
>> bush, they have a thin metal sleeve on the inner diameter as well.
>> I have searched the world for replacement bushes without luck ?
>> With a Metalastic bush the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeve
>> (Metalastic were masters at bonding steel to rubber) and it is that bonding
>> which makes the striker work properly.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sat., Sep. 12, 2020, 2:54 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Harold,
>>>
>>> Yes there is a metal tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is bonded to
>>> the mounting plate. And the latch is aligned to the door on the lock.
>>> Hopefully it was fitted before, as part of the restoration and that all you
>>> have to do is put it in place where it was fitted before.
>>>
>>> However, if this was not the case, you first have to determine how many
>>> aluminum packing plates you will need for the striker assembly to be
>>> located where it should. These packing plates go between the door shut
>>> panel and the aluminum trim, once you have determined that, then you can
>>>  install your striking assembly.
>>>
>>> Looking at the pieces you have in the attached photo, I enlarged it for
>>> clarity, I would say that the bottom one in the photo is suitable to use
>>> but the other two I certainly would not use again, they appear worn and
>>> damaged and likely will not give you many years of service.
>>>
>>> As far as the washers to use behind the acorn nut, I use one flat washer
>>> and one star washer.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jean
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent: *September 12, 2020 11:54 AM
>>> *To: *'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] How Should the Door Striker Assembly Work?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> In the box of parts I received with my car there were three door striker
>>> assemblies and it looks like there are enough decent parts to make two
>>> working door strikers. All three were assembled with different washers in a
>>> different arrangement. I have figured out the threads are 5/16" BSF as one
>>> of the strikers had a 5/16" UNF nut. It looks like there is the a metal
>>> tube bonded to a rubber sleeve which is also bonded to the mounting plate.
>>> I assume the idea is the threaded latch piece is held tight to the metal
>>> tube using some arrangement of washers and the acorn nut. The rubber sleeve
>>> would allow the latch to rotate a bit in each direction. The latch can be
>>> aligned to the the lock on the door and tightened.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Is this how it should operate? Any suggestions on the type of washers
>>> and how they should be arranged?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have attached a picture of the parts less the 5/16" UNF nut which is
>>> the only item I am sure is wrong.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks .... Harold
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 09:43:38 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 10:43:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Production start dates
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>

List and Steve Byers,

I am trying to verify production start dates (month and year) for Phase I
and Phase II BJ8s for the Popularity car show class signs I am producing
for Conclave 2021.  I found the year dates in Bill Emerson's book, but also
want the month of production start.

Thanks.

Neil Anderson
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 10:05:29 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 09:05:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 at Auction
Message-ID: <7935b495-a271-d548-df59-b44b2b5928d6@comcast.net>

FYI (from latest Hemmings Motor News).
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Sep 13 12:01:29 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 14:01:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Production start dates
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>

Neil, Phase 1 assembly began with chassis 25317 on 11 October 1963 (the first chassis number, 25315, was not started until 20 January 1964).    Phase 2 production ?officially? began with the first Phase 2 chassis number, 26705 on 12 May 64 (26740 was begun the same day); however the cars were not built in strict chassis number sequence, so there were other (higher) chassis numbers started earlier:  

Chassis 31338 was begun (and finished) on 5 Apr 64.   I have no record (so far) of any Phase 2 chassis number being started earlier than April 1964.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil Anderson via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:44 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Production start dates

 

List and Steve Byers,

 

I am trying to verify production start dates (month and year) for Phase I and Phase II BJ8s for the Popularity car show class signs I am producing for Conclave 2021.  I found the year dates in Bill Emerson's book, but also want the month of production start.  

 

Thanks.

 

Neil Anderson

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From schottc at knology.net  Sun Sep 13 15:43:13 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 17:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----









_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 16:42:43 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 15:42:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+ZmXnv1i=LYKdROKsGHuTO4riom030S5aLBYqrni78Krw@mail.gmail.com>

Looking very nice, Charlie.
-Roland

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 3:22 PM Charles Schott via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with
> the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some,
> including me, might say it's been over engineered.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 20:42:57 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 21:42:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Production start dates
In-Reply-To: <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjqkUwkx4Ce7ABwPS-YP2Pfu17NUcaDZQ2q=b7sg7VEaxg@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Perry and Steve for filling in my missing info.  I guess I wasn't
aware that the Phase II cars started production in sort of mid '64, with
Phase I cars even earlier, late '63.

Neil Anderson

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020 at 1:26 PM Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Neil, Phase 1 assembly began with chassis 25317 on 11 October 1963 (the
> first chassis number, 25315, was not started until 20 January 1964).
>   Phase 2 production ?officially? began with the first Phase 2 chassis
> number, 26705 on 12 May 64 (26740 was begun the same day); however the cars
> were not built in strict chassis number sequence, so there were other
> (higher) chassis numbers started earlier:
>
> Chassis 31338 was begun (and finished) on 5 Apr 64.   I have no record (so
> far) of any Phase 2 chassis number being started earlier than April 1964.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Neil
> Anderson via Healeys
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:44 AM
> *To:* Austin Healey
> *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Production start dates
>
>
>
> List and Steve Byers,
>
>
>
> I am trying to verify production start dates (month and year) for Phase I
> and Phase II BJ8s for the Popularity car show class signs I am producing
> for Conclave 2021.  I found the year dates in Bill Emerson's book, but also
> want the month of production start.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Neil Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 13 21:42:00 2020
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 03:42:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>

 Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.

    On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.
Regards,
Charlie


?




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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 22:31:10 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 21:31:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>

Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
> Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.
>
> On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via 
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference 
> with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. 
> Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>

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From schottc at knology.net  Mon Sep 14 07:44:21 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 09:44:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Bob, 

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers? 


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: 



Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work. 

On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 

Regards, 

Charlie 






_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Mon Sep 14 08:30:12 2020
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 10:30:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <AE30A2B2-8567-4EDE-8533-EA53954C1B55@mac.com>

Nice work Charlie! Looks great and I am sure it will function well.
Lin

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 6:31 PM, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> 
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> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 08:56:49 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 10:56:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>

Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out.  it took 15 years to
happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or
hastened the process.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never
> intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to
> quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front
> wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the
> driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It
> gets hot in Florida.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
>
> Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?
>
>
> On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
>
> Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.
>
> On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with
> the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some,
> including me, might say it's been over engineered.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 14 09:05:54 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 08:05:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>

Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M  with the 1 3/4 carbs available.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org




From: Charles Schott via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

Bob,

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.

Regards,

Charlie


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers


Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?



On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:

  Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.


  On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote: 


  After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.

  Regards,

  Charlie




_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75


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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 09:47:54 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 08:47:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>

Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped 
my BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt 
the engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation.

My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, 
it facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer 
between the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, 
downpipes and headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust 
gasses stays vaporized (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes 
and mufflers, which rust from the inside out. What's unclear to me is 
how wrap, or ceramic coating, which should theoretically keep more heat 
in the system affects the steel. I would expect some embrittlement from 
the heat cycling, but haven't seen it (yet).

FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes 
wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was 
disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, 
my BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected 
the louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope.

Bob


On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out.? it took 15 years 
> to happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap 
> promoted or hastened the process.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Bob,
>
>     I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy.
>     Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I
>     wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the
>     triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the
>     heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an
>     air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.
>
>     Regards,
>
>     Charlie
>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From: *"Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Sent: *Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
>     *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
>
>     Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?
>
>
>     On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
>
>         Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.
>
>         On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott
>         via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>         After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate
>         interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with
>         mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been
>         over engineered.
>
>         Regards,
>
>         Charlie
>

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From schottc at knology.net  Mon Sep 14 10:54:52 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 12:54:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <868336812.269880.1600102492098.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Bob, 

I restored a 1960 BT7 about seven years ago with no special treatment to the exhaust system and it's never overheated here in Florida. That was a stainless steel system so I don't worry about the rust. 

By the way, I'm adding a Le Mans kit to my 100-4 and will have it in the 100M registry. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:47:54 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped my BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt the engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation. 

My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, it facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer between the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, downpipes and headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust gasses stays vaporized (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes and mufflers, which rust from the inside out. What's unclear to me is how wrap, or ceramic coating, which should theoretically keep more heat in the system affects the steel. I would expect some embrittlement from the heat cycling, but haven't seen it (yet). 

FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, my BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected the louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope. 

Bob 


On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: 



Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out. it took 15 years to happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or hastened the process. 

Best--Michael Oritt 

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

Bob, 

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 

Regards, 

Charlie 


From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers? 


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: 

<blockquote>

Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work. 

On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 

Regards, 

Charlie 





</blockquote>


</blockquote>


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From schottc at knology.net  Mon Sep 14 11:00:02 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 13:00:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <1143186791.272443.1600102802040.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

David, 

Thanks for the reply but I now have mine properly fitted with no interference. I'm interested in seeing what your shield looks like. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:05:54 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M with the 1 3/4 carbs available. 
David Nock 
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 
209 948 8767 
www.britishcarspecialists.com 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at. 
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org 
From: Charles Schott via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AM 
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 
Bob, 
I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 
Regards, 
Charlie 
----- Original Message -----

From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 
Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers? 


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: 



Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work. 
On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote: 
After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 
Regards, 
Charlie 




_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
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From schottc at knology.net  Mon Sep 14 11:02:04 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 13:02:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <911817996.273626.1600102924180.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

David, 

Forgot to mention that I'm running the 1 3/4 carbs. You can see from the pictures the 4 bolt SU gaskets. 

Regards, 

Charlie 
----- Original Message -----

From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:05:54 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M with the 1 3/4 carbs available. 
David Nock 
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 
209 948 8767 
www.britishcarspecialists.com 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at. 
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org 
From: Charles Schott via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AM 
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 
Bob, 
I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 
Regards, 
Charlie 
----- Original Message -----

From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 
Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers? 


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: 



Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work. 
On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote: 
After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 
Regards, 
Charlie 




_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 14 11:24:38 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 10:24:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <911817996.273626.1600102924180.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
 <911817996.273626.1600102924180.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <027D5A50CB8749F896B9E54B219B6066@DavidNockHP>

Yes that is what I have had made for the 1 3/4  100 M carbs


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Charles Schott 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:02 AM
To: David Nock BCS 
Cc: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

David,

Forgot to mention that I'm running the 1 3/4 carbs. You can see from the pictures the 4 bolt SU gaskets.

Regards,

Charlie

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:05:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers


Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M  with the 1 3/4 carbs available.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org




From: Charles Schott via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

Bob,

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.

Regards,

Charlie


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers


Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?



On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:

  Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.


  On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote: 


  After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.

  Regards,

  Charlie





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From larry at patersondesign.ca  Mon Sep 14 15:59:25 2020
From: larry at patersondesign.ca (larry at patersondesign.ca)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 17:59:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <911817996.273626.1600102924180.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <E1AF79F57E9E48AE9B4188F57D7C26ED@DavidNockHP>
 <911817996.273626.1600102924180.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <1600120765.frsbbw0psgwkos0o@email.xplornet.com>


	


I found that an oil cooler works well to keep motor cool as well as water wetter in the rad.? Mind you I also have a wrapped exhaust and standard heat shield.? also I dont run a 100 fan but do have an electric one in front of the rad which is used occasionally.

Larry


On Mon, 14 Sep 2020 13:02:04 -0400 (EDT), Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?

David,

?

Forgot to mention that I'm running the 1 3/4 carbs. You can see from the pictures the 4 bolt SU gaskets.

?

Regards,

?

Charlie


From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:05:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

?



Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M? with the 1 3/4 carbs available.

?

?

?

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
?
Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org



?

?

?


From: Charles Schott via Healeys

Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AM

To: Bob Spidell

Cc: healeys at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers



?




Bob,

?

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.

?

Regards,

?

Charlie

?


From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

?
Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?

?
?

On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:



Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.

?




On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote:

?

?





After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.

?

Regards,

?

Charlie


?

?








?

?
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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

?
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?
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?


?


?

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?

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 16:10:33 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 18:10:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKLBoUsDapFJLCAd8QwTaho9u-Rg8jtYmcxcd159Oj++Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have had exactly the same results as Bob, as in "no noticeable change in
temperature" despite those mods.

M

On Mon., Sep. 14, 2020, 12:21 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped my
> BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt the
> engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation.
>
> My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, it
> facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer between
> the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, downpipes and
> headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust gasses stays vaporized
> (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes and mufflers, which rust
> from the inside out. What's unclear to me is how wrap, or ceramic coating,
> which should theoretically keep more heat in the system affects the steel.
> I would expect some embrittlement from the heat cycling, but haven't seen
> it (yet).
>
> FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes
> wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was
> disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, my
> BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected the
> louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out.  it took 15 years to
> happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or
> hastened the process.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never
>> intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to
>> quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front
>> wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the
>> driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It
>> gets hot in Florida.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Sent: *Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
>>
>> Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?
>>
>>
>> On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.
>>
>> On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference
>> with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some,
>> including me, might say it's been over engineered.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From schottc at knology.net  Mon Sep 14 17:32:46 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 19:32:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKLBoUsDapFJLCAd8QwTaho9u-Rg8jtYmcxcd159Oj++Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKLBoUsDapFJLCAd8QwTaho9u-Rg8jtYmcxcd159Oj++Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <240847344.441812.1600126366568.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

This car was not running when I bought it so I don't know how much difference the modifications will make. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 5:10:33 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

I have had exactly the same results as Bob, as in "no noticeable change in temperature" despite those mods. 

M 

On Mon., Sep. 14, 2020, 12:21 p.m. Bob Spidell, < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: 



Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped my BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt the engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation. 

My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, it facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer between the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, downpipes and headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust gasses stays vaporized (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes and mufflers, which rust from the inside out. What's unclear to me is how wrap, or ceramic coating, which should theoretically keep more heat in the system affects the steel. I would expect some embrittlement from the heat cycling, but haven't seen it (yet). 

FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, my BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected the louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope. 

Bob 


On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: 

<blockquote>

Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out. it took 15 years to happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or hastened the process. 

Best--Michael Oritt 

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

Bob, 

I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 

Regards, 

Charlie 


From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers 

Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers? 


On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: 

<blockquote>

Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work. 

On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 

Regards, 

Charlie 





</blockquote>


</blockquote>

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com 


</blockquote>


_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 18:24:58 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 17:24:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <868336812.269880.1600102492098.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1507786810.1898669.1600054920437@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5fef060f-b74e-40b1-1aa5-dc096856e337@comcast.net>
 <586033595.141147.1600091061639.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5Wa-h8JK1qqgs9OD6MPWZOFMCWQAW69dWUyfczcM8=LQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a1c24ed0-308f-bf83-1ea2-938a6ff417e3@comcast.net>
 <868336812.269880.1600102492098.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <a7259429-586f-197b-f3dd-b9822c400aef@comcast.net>

Charlie,

Sounds like you found the 'secret sauce.' Can I have some?

Bob


On 9/14/2020 9:54 AM, Charles Schott wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I restored a 1960 BT7 about seven years ago with no special treatment 
> to the exhaust system and it's never overheated here in Florida. That 
> was a stainless steel system so I don't worry about the rust.
>
> By the way, I'm adding a Le Mans kit to my 100-4 and will have it in 
> the 100M registry.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 10:30:18 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 17:30:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Changing my email address
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxf0B1+cQOyUky0+TP9Dw9PWt7D5mNGWWcRvDSs3ypwTpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mark

After many years I am giving up the post of the
British austin-healey club 100 register, but would still wish to have
emails from the forum.

Is it possible for you to delete

ah100register at gmail.com

and replace it with

ah100tech at gmail.com

It is some time since I made a contribution for all your work. If you would
like to make a suggestion, I would pay by paypal as here we have pounds
sterling

Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Tue Sep 15 16:10:14 2020
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 18:10:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump torque value
Message-ID: <066006F0-3ED7-4097-BFDC-52EE31D96156@mac.com>

Anyone have a suggested torque value for the water pump on a Big Healey? 
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 17:13:00 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 19:13:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill
grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine
died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I
waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the
ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
luck.

I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home,
off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is dead.

Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss
tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early
or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends
work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end
failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?

Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
install a backup pump?

Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
(she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
him (I wore my mask).

I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.

Thanks for all input on this one,

Fred

66 BJ8 (new or late)
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 15 17:43:44 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 19:43:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010801d68bba$0ceb3f50$26c1bdf0$@rr.com>

Fred, the BJ7/BJ8 parts manual shows that a pump with a square body was used from Phase 1 to chassis number 28224 in Phase 2.  After that, the pump had a cylindrical body.  Your car should have the late pump.

I installed a backup fuel pump in my BJ8 to prepare for the cross-county trip to Lake Tahoe in 2002, using a generic Autozone electric pump as the backup.  I have no experience with the double-ended pump.

 

During my post-Conclave tour last September, I broke off from the tour group to motor into Montana alone.  My backup pump (I typically drive outbound on the SU and home on the backup) failed just as I got into Montana.  Once I realized why the car suddenly failed to respond to the accelerator, I switched to the SU and kept going.  I found an identical backup pump at an Autozone in Minot, ND and had it installed in about 20 minutes.  Installing a backup generic pump in series with the SU is pretty simple.    It requires cutting one of the fuel hard lines, but I had already done that anyway to put an in-line filter in it under the right rear seat.  The switch is under the dash.  I have had to use the switch a few times, and it is a comfort to know the option of another pump is there.

 

Cheers!

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 7:13 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump

 

Listers,

 

I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no luck.

 

I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is dead.

 

Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?

 

Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then install a backup pump? 

 

Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my mask).

 

I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all input on this one,

 

Fred 

 

66 BJ8 (new or late)

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 18:02:03 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 20:02:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0dcc01d68bbc$9c312fb0$d4938f10$@gmail.com>

Limora lists a pump for BN1-BN7 + BJ-8 to 28224, a different pump for BJ-8 from 28225: https://www.limora.com/en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1953-1968/fuel-pump-and-fuel-tank.html

 

Hope that helps?

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 7:13 PM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump

 

Listers,

 

I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no luck.

 

I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is dead.

 

Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?

 

Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then install a backup pump? 

 

Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my mask).

 

I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all input on this one,

 

Fred 

 

66 BJ8 (new or late)

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 15 18:44:12 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 00:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB4664022E7DCE51E3C5BDDB14A4210@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I would serious consider rebuilding the fuel pump. It is easy and cheap. Try pounding on the vertical wall under the rear seat and it should start (temporarily) If not, check the wiring. I carry a spare (rebuilt) pump. With the dual pump you need to install a switch to switch form one pump to the other. It is not automatic.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 4:13 PM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump

Listers,

I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no luck.

I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is dead.

Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?

Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then install a backup pump?

Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my mask).

I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.

Thanks for all input on this one,

Fred

66 BJ8 (new or late)
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 19:31:59 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:31:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6D4QQ=7AN2xVXJGTYEorozQg62w9r-rXYh0c2OKXJTHA@mail.gmail.com>

Fred--

You asked:  "Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work
at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end
failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?"

Since these pumps were not original to Healeys there is no correct way to
wire them and the answer to your question would depend entirely upon how
you wired the power/switch.  You can choose between a SPDT ("On-Off-On")
switch where only one motor runs at a time or a SPST ("Off-On") switch (or
no switch at all) where both motors run simultaneously.  In the first setup
the "backup plan" would only happen were you to switch from a non-operative
motor to an operative one.  In the second/third arrangement the pumping
load is theoretically shared all the time by both motors and if one craps
out the other simply does all the work.

FWIW I have the SPDT version mounted inconspicuously through the rear
bulkhead behind the driver;s seat so it can be reached while driving.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 7:22 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the
> engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart
> it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear
> the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At
> home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel
> pump is dead.
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The
> Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an
> early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both
> ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If
> one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and
> save me?
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install a backup pump?
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
> (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
> him (I wore my mask).
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Sep 15 21:06:05 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 20:06:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86991906DA314DF4898BD8A89052644C@AllInOne>

Burlen is a good source for fuel pumps and repair kits.
 
http://sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/pumps/id/400/

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 4:13 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump


Listers, 

I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill
grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine
died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I
waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the
ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
luck.

I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home,
off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is dead.

Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss
tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early or
late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work at
the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end failed
would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?

Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then install
a backup pump? 

Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a service.
I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver (she was in
the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The driver was very
nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my
mask).

I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.

Thanks for all input on this one,

Fred 

66 BJ8 (new or late)
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Sep 15 22:29:21 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 22:29:21 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Changing my email address
Message-ID: <208e3933-bbbe-3ba9-8aae-5da3d33988f4@bradakis.com>

For those folks on the real time list rather than the digest, each and 
every list message has a few web links at the bottom. One such link is 
labeled "Unsubscribe/Manage".? This link, which for some reason is not 
available to digest members, is personalized for every user.? If one 
clicks on it, assuming your email program is web aware, it takes you 
right to a web page where you can do things like change your 
subscription from one address to another.? Fairly simple and 
straightforward, when people use it it reduces the time I have to put 
into Team Net maintenance.? And thanks to mailing list management 
software, the time I need to spend on list work is a lot less than it 
was back 20 - 25 years ago.? No more 15 - 20 hours a week keeping the 
bits flowing, thank goodness!

Anyway, John, I made the change, you should be set.

mjb.



From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 00:44:27 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:44:27 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
In-Reply-To: <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAHZDnjoEdJCQPOzEFQuBsRrALSG2Si+oB7Rtv6WzQdmAAcVH=g@mail.gmail.com>
 <00f901d689f7$e84e47a0$b8ead6e0$@rr.com>
 <1965844568.6435762.1600033392734.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+rotSVSRG2UtK2rM16aYJcm4hiH_YNHHu0F9qywk04cQ@mail.gmail.com>

That's very handsome!  I got pretty good results by jet-hot coating the
exhaust manifold but it's good to have SS exhaust if you do this because
the exhaust gasses get much hotter.

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 6:31 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with
> the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some,
> including me, might say it's been over engineered.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Sep 16 01:01:53 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 09:01:53 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=5QV9NaGsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <10fcdbd3-f3c1-8ade-d292-df7ad8a33592@chello.nl>

Most likely an SU AUF301/303/305 pump is fitted as original, the 
Burlen/SU AZX1308 is the equivalent modern replacement. It is very 
unlikely that the pump is scrap. These pumps are imminently rebuildable. 
Probably the points are dirty/burned/worn and need replacement. A 
problem that arises when the car is used sparingly. Replacing the points 
is a simple operation that can be done in about an hour at home using 
basic tools and some feeler gauges..

If a double ended pump is used both ends work simultaneously. If one end 
stops the other end will continue more or less as a back up. This is a 
bit of a problem as you will not normally notice one end stopping.

Even with a new SU pump you often encounter that it does not work 
initially and that you have to remove the cap to clean the points using 
some flower paper.

There are electronic versions but apparently reliability is said to be 
an issue.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 16-9-2020 om 01:13 schreef Fred Wescoe:
> Listers,
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an 
> uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, 
> the engine died.? I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying?to 
> restart it.? I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but 
> did not hear the ticking of the fuel pump.? I waited several?minutes, 
> tried again but no luck.
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.? At 
> home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.? So, I am thinking the fuel 
> pump?is dead.
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early?and a late?BJ8 pump.? The 
> Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.? My car number is 29009.? Am I 
> an early or late pump?? Also, if I switch to the double?ended pump, do 
> both ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other 
> end?? If one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal 
> manner and save me?
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and?then 
> install a backup pump?
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me 
> from riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.? I was somewhat 
> amazed at this but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car 
> rental place as a service.? I made my call but my ride didn't arrive 
> before the truck driver (she was in the middle?of a haircut so you 
> know where that?got me).? The driver was very nice about the whole 
> thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my mask).
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From sgerow2 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 14:40:57 2020
From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 13:40:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re Fuel pump
Message-ID: <CA+myF4oSUoPX-5kMij7bOgv_fTexZ3hhLwGuHi_LJCA0ed2ZOA@mail.gmail.com>

Fred,
Before you buy new or rebuild...

Check to see that you have electricity at the pump. Check the pump ground.

I have a dual pump setup and two O2 sensors, which flatlined on the
freeway, showing failure of both pumps. On checking, both were grounded at
the same screw which was loose. The actual problem was a loose lucas bullet
connector at the firewall where the rear harness fuel pump wire goes down
next to the pedal box. I also installed a second ground screw for the
second pump.

-- 

*Steve Gerow*

*Altadena, CA BN6 & TR6*
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Wed Sep 16 14:57:50 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 20:57:50 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
Message-ID: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>

???I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.?
???Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
???Thanks in advance guys,
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Sep 16 15:17:57 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 23:17:57 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
Message-ID: <633abbde-92b5-106b-caf7-180628462f47@chello.nl>

A drain for leaking coolant.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-9-2020 om 22:57 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
> ???I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon 
> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick 
> with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found 
> a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 
> and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water 
> pump.
> ???Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like 
> this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit 
> concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
> ???Thanks in advance guys,
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> IMG_20200916_132240.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From alsemus1 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 15:38:17 2020
From: alsemus1 at gmail.com (Albert Seminatore)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:38:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 342
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1600279201.18134.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1600279201.18134.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAEEMJ+2d70O9x2n6L64qQSye-EonFyFti3DhY9xxmsEnB0QrYQ@mail.gmail.com>

I got tired of the start and go problems of the fuel pump with points.  I
therefor went to a magnetic set up installed by Burlen at
https://su-rebuilders.com/.
They installed the pointless system in mine some 2 to 3 years ago and I
have no problem with it since.  They are extremely hard to set up but they
can do an excellent job.  After which DO NOT mess with it.
................    Al

On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 11:12 AM <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>         healeys at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         healeys-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         healeys-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Water pump torque value (Linwood Rose)
>    2. Fuel pump (Fred Wescoe)
>    3. Re: Fuel pump (Max Byers)
>    4. Re: Fuel pump (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
>    5. Re: Fuel pump (Richard Kahn)
>    6. Re: Fuel pump (Michael Oritt)
>    7. Re: Fuel pump (Harold Manifold)
>    8. Re: Changing my email address (Mark J Bradakis)
>    9. Re: [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers (Alan Seigrist)
>   10. Re: Fuel pump (Kees Oudesluijs)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 18:10:14 -0400
> From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
> To: healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump torque value
> Message-ID: <066006F0-3ED7-4097-BFDC-52EE31D96156 at mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Anyone have a suggested torque value for the water pump on a Big Healey?
> Lin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 19:13:00 -0400
> From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID:
>         <CAPAC+V4e8AzZGr7V7DgBvtunRTQ5=o6=u7H_O0aE=
> 5QV9NaGsw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Listers,
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill
> grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine
> died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I
> waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the
> ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home,
> off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is
> dead.
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss
> tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early
> or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends
> work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end
> failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install a backup pump?
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
> (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
> him (I wore my mask).
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> -------------- next part --------------
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> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200915/5497cadf/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 19:43:44 -0400
> From: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: "'healeys'" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID: <010801d68bba$0ceb3f50$26c1bdf0$@rr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Fred, the BJ7/BJ8 parts manual shows that a pump with a square body was
> used from Phase 1 to chassis number 28224 in Phase 2.  After that, the pump
> had a cylindrical body.  Your car should have the late pump.
>
> I installed a backup fuel pump in my BJ8 to prepare for the cross-county
> trip to Lake Tahoe in 2002, using a generic Autozone electric pump as the
> backup.  I have no experience with the double-ended pump.
>
>
>
> During my post-Conclave tour last September, I broke off from the tour
> group to motor into Montana alone.  My backup pump (I typically drive
> outbound on the SU and home on the backup) failed just as I got into
> Montana.  Once I realized why the car suddenly failed to respond to the
> accelerator, I switched to the SU and kept going.  I found an identical
> backup pump at an Autozone in Minot, ND and had it installed in about 20
> minutes.  Installing a backup generic pump in series with the SU is pretty
> simple.    It requires cutting one of the fuel hard lines, but I had
> already done that anyway to put an in-line filter in it under the right
> rear seat.  The switch is under the dash.  I have had to use the switch a
> few times, and it is a comfort to know the option of another pump is there.
>
>
>
> Cheers!
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
> Wescoe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 7:13 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the
> engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart
> it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear
> the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
>
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At
> home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump
> is dead.
>
>
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The
> Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an
> early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both
> ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If
> one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and
> save me?
>
>
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install a backup pump?
>
>
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
> (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
> him (I wore my mask).
>
>
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
>
>
> Fred
>
>
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 20:02:03 -0400
> From: <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
> To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>, "'healeys'"
>         <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID: <0dcc01d68bbc$9c312fb0$d4938f10$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Limora lists a pump for BN1-BN7 + BJ-8 to 28224, a different pump for BJ-8
> from 28225:
> https://www.limora.com/en/british-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-to-bj8-1953-1968/fuel-pump-and-fuel-tank.html
>
>
>
> Hope that helps?
>
>
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 7:13 PM
> To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the
> engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart
> it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear
> the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
>
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At
> home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump
> is dead.
>
>
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The
> Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an
> early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both
> ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If
> one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and
> save me?
>
>
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install a backup pump?
>
>
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
> (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
> him (I wore my mask).
>
>
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
>
>
> Fred
>
>
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 00:44:12 +0000
> From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>, healeys
>         <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID:
>         <
> BYAPR08MB4664022E7DCE51E3C5BDDB14A4210 at BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I would serious consider rebuilding the fuel pump. It is easy and cheap.
> Try pounding on the vertical wall under the rear seat and it should start
> (temporarily) If not, check the wiring. I carry a spare (rebuilt) pump.
> With the dual pump you need to install a switch to switch form one pump to
> the other. It is not automatic.
>
> ________________________________
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Fred Wescoe <
> fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 4:13 PM
> To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
>
> Listers,
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the
> engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart
> it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear
> the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At
> home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump
> is dead.
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The
> Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an
> early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both
> ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If
> one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and
> save me?
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install a backup pump?
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver
> (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with
> him (I wore my mask).
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:31:59 -0400
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID:
>         <CAPTa0B6D4QQ=
> 7AN2xVXJGTYEorozQg62w9r-rXYh0c2OKXJTHA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Fred--
>
> You asked:  "Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work
> at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end
> failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?"
>
> Since these pumps were not original to Healeys there is no correct way to
> wire them and the answer to your question would depend entirely upon how
> you wired the power/switch.  You can choose between a SPDT ("On-Off-On")
> switch where only one motor runs at a time or a SPST ("Off-On") switch (or
> no switch at all) where both motors run simultaneously.  In the first setup
> the "backup plan" would only happen were you to switch from a non-operative
> motor to an operative one.  In the second/third arrangement the pumping
> load is theoretically shared all the time by both motors and if one craps
> out the other simply does all the work.
>
> FWIW I have the SPDT version mounted inconspicuously through the rear
> bulkhead behind the driver;s seat so it can be reached while driving.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 7:22 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> > uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the
> > engine died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart
> > it.  I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not
> hear
> > the ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but
> no
> > luck.
> >
> > I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At
> > home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel
> > pump is dead.
> >
> > Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The
> > Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an
> > early or late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both
> > ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If
> > one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and
> > save me?
> >
> > Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> > install a backup pump?
> >
> > Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> > riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at
> this
> > but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> > service.  I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck
> driver
> > (she was in the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The
> > driver was very nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab
> with
> > him (I wore my mask).
> >
> > I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
> >
> > Thanks for all input on this one,
> >
> > Fred
> >
> > 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 20:06:05 -0700
> From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net>
> To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe at gmail.com>, "'healeys'"
>         <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID: <86991906DA314DF4898BD8A89052644C at AllInOne>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Burlen is a good source for fuel pumps and repair kits.
>
> http://sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/pumps/id/400/
>
>   _____
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
> Wescoe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 4:13 PM
> To: healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an uphill
> grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off, the engine
> died.  I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying to restart it.  I
> waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but did not hear the
> ticking of the fuel pump.  I waited several minutes, tried again but no
> luck.
>
> I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.  At home,
> off the flatbed, still no ticking.  So, I am thinking the fuel pump is
> dead.
>
> Looking at the Moss site, they list an early and a late BJ8 pump.  The Moss
> tech couldn't tell me which I am.  My car number is 29009.  Am I an early
> or
> late pump?  Also, if I switch to the double ended pump, do both ends work
> at
> the same time or is one end a backup for the other end?  If one end failed
> would the other end provide fuel in the normal manner and save me?
>
> Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and then
> install
> a backup pump?
>
> Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me from
> riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.  I was somewhat amazed at this
> but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car rental place as a
> service.
> I made my call but my ride didn't arrive before the truck driver (she was
> in
> the middle of a haircut so you know where that got me).  The driver was
> very
> nice about the whole thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my
> mask).
>
> I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for all input on this one,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> -------------- next part --------------
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 22:29:21 -0600
> From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Changing my email address
> Message-ID: <208e3933-bbbe-3ba9-8aae-5da3d33988f4 at bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> For those folks on the real time list rather than the digest, each and
> every list message has a few web links at the bottom. One such link is
> labeled "Unsubscribe/Manage".? This link, which for some reason is not
> available to digest members, is personalized for every user.? If one
> clicks on it, assuming your email program is web aware, it takes you
> right to a web page where you can do things like change your
> subscription from one address to another.? Fairly simple and
> straightforward, when people use it it reduces the time I have to put
> into Team Net maintenance.? And thanks to mailing list management
> software, the time I need to spend on list work is a lot less than it
> was back 20 - 25 years ago.? No more 15 - 20 hours a week keeping the
> bits flowing, thank goodness!
>
> Anyway, John, I made the change, you should be set.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:44:27 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net>
> Cc: Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>, Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAFBXTk+rotSVSRG2UtK2rM16aYJcm4hiH_YNHHu0F9qywk04cQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> That's very handsome!  I got pretty good results by jet-hot coating the
> exhaust manifold but it's good to have SS exhaust if you do this because
> the exhaust gasses get much hotter.
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 6:31 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> > After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference
> with
> > the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some,
> > including me, might say it's been over engineered.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 09:01:53 +0200
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
> Message-ID: <10fcdbd3-f3c1-8ade-d292-df7ad8a33592 at chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Most likely an SU AUF301/303/305 pump is fitted as original, the
> Burlen/SU AZX1308 is the equivalent modern replacement. It is very
> unlikely that the pump is scrap. These pumps are imminently rebuildable.
> Probably the points are dirty/burned/worn and need replacement. A
> problem that arises when the car is used sparingly. Replacing the points
> is a simple operation that can be done in about an hour at home using
> basic tools and some feeler gauges..
>
> If a double ended pump is used both ends work simultaneously. If one end
> stops the other end will continue more or less as a back up. This is a
> bit of a problem as you will not normally notice one end stopping.
>
> Even with a new SU pump you often encounter that it does not work
> initially and that you have to remove the cap to clean the points using
> some flower paper.
>
> There are electronic versions but apparently reliability is said to be
> an issue.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 16-9-2020 om 01:13 schreef Fred Wescoe:
> > Listers,
> >
> > I was out for a long drive in the mountains this afternoon and on an
> > uphill grade, the car lost power and as I pulled over on a pull off,
> > the engine died.? I sat in the car for a couple of minutes trying?to
> > restart it.? I waited until traffic was past me and turned the key but
> > did not hear the ticking of the fuel pump.? I waited several?minutes,
> > tried again but no luck.
> >
> > I called AAA and they picked me and the car up for the ride home.? At
> > home, off the flatbed, still no ticking.? So, I am thinking the fuel
> > pump?is dead.
> >
> > Looking at the Moss site, they list an early?and a late?BJ8 pump.? The
> > Moss tech couldn't tell me which I am.? My car number is 29009.? Am I
> > an early or late pump?? Also, if I switch to the double?ended pump, do
> > both ends work at the same time or is one end a backup for the other
> > end?? If one end failed would the other end provide fuel in the normal
> > manner and save me?
> >
> > Should I simply go with whichever single pump is for my car and?then
> > install a backup pump?
> >
> > Just as an important aside, AAA said covid regulations prohibited me
> > from riding in the tow truck cab with the driver.? I was somewhat
> > amazed at this but AAA offered to transfer me to the nearest car
> > rental place as a service.? I made my call but my ride didn't arrive
> > before the truck driver (she was in the middle?of a haircut so you
> > know where that?got me).? The driver was very nice about the whole
> > thing and did allow me in the cab with him (I wore my mask).
> >
> > I will start investigating the source of the pump problem tomorrow.
> >
> > Thanks for all input on this one,
> >
> > Fred
> >
> > 66 BJ8 (new or late)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 342
> ****************************************
>


-- 
Albert Seminatore
Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 16 15:38:53 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 21:38:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <633abbde-92b5-106b-caf7-180628462f47@chello.nl>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>,
 <633abbde-92b5-106b-caf7-180628462f47@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB46647723DAEA842D220E8EA1A4210@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I believe it is also a place to remove a clip when rebuilding the pump. It's been a while but I remember something about a that, but as I get older......

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 2:17 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question


A drain for leaking coolant.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-9-2020 om 22:57 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
   I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
   Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
   Thanks in advance guys,
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

[IMG_20200916_132240.jpg]



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 15:44:33 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 17:44:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLwOQxjCf7Jn403FvejyzAGMKiYZLsSuW864+WEzHCwvA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water pump
seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be rebuilt.
The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been
over greased.

M

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>    I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with
> what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at
> the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to
> admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
>    Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this?
> I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need
> the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>    Thanks in advance guys,
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> [image: IMG_20200916_132240.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Wed Sep 16 16:21:30 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:21:30 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
Message-ID: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>

Again, the list makes my day!! Thank you all for the responses and the knowledge. I will continue with my quest to get this car back on the road!
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On September 16, 2020 at 2:44 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water pump seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be rebuilt.
The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been over greased.


M


On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

???I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.?
???Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
???Thanks in advance guys,
Steven Kingsbury
BN1


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 16:17:21 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 18:17:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB46647723DAEA842D220E8EA1A4210@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
 <633abbde-92b5-106b-caf7-180628462f47@chello.nl>
 <BYAPR08MB46647723DAEA842D220E8EA1A4210@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+QXXdD24KL_q_UvDhfY2e2keTpUvMkrc4n72PEumtdBA@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, that's on the BJ7/8 pumps with cartridge bearings.

M

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:49 p.m. Richard Kahn, <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I believe it is also a place to remove a clip when rebuilding the pump.
> It's been a while but I remember something about a that, but as I get
> older......
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
> Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 16, 2020 2:17 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
>
>
> A drain for leaking coolant.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 16-9-2020 om 22:57 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
>
>    I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with
> what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at
> the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to
> admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
>    Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this?
> I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need
> the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>    Thanks in advance guys,
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> [image: IMG_20200916_132240.jpg]
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From allan-peters at sky.com  Thu Sep 17 01:03:08 2020
From: allan-peters at sky.com (Allan Peters)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 07:03:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 341
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1600192802.3171.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1600192802.3171.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <63868358.778752.1600326188922@mail.yahoo.com>

 Nice to see the Photo,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? of? Werners? ?Healey BN1 on his driveway in Sept 2018.This was his Ebay ad Photo.Would like to think that this car has been preserved in its time capsule form as this look is to Die for !!!!!!!!!That? Healey ice blue has aged well and would bode well for an Oily Rag restoration.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Such a Rewarding Forum,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Regards,? ? ?Allan? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??
    On Tuesday, 15 September 2020, 19:06:33 BST, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
? ? ? (larry at patersondesign.ca)
? 2. Re: [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers (Michael Salter)
? 3. Re: [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers (Charles Schott)
? 4. Re: [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers (Bob Spidell)
? 5. Changing my email address (John Harper)
 I found that an oil cooler works well to keep motor cool as well as water wetter in the rad.? Mind you I also have a wrapped exhaust and standard heat shield.? also I dont run a 100 fan but do have an electric one in front of the rad which is used occasionally.

Larry

On Mon, 14 Sep 2020 13:02:04 -0400 (EDT), Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?David,?Forgot to mention that I'm running the 1 3/4 carbs. You can see from the pictures the 4 bolt SU gaskets.?Regards,?CharlieFrom: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 10:05:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers?Which carbs are you running the 100. We have a heat shield available for the 100M? with the 1 3/4 carbs available.???David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com?Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org???From: Charles Schott via HealeysSent: Monday, September 14, 2020 6:44 AMTo: Bob SpidellCc: healeys at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers?Bob,?I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.?Regards,?Charlie?From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers?Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers???On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.?On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net wrote:??After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.?Regards,?Charlie??
??_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75?Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive?Healeys at autox.team.net
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?
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/larry at patersondesign.ca
? I have had exactly the same results as Bob, as in "no noticeable change in temperature" despite those mods.
M
On Mon., Sep. 14, 2020, 12:21 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped my BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt the engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation.
 
 My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, it facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer between the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, downpipes and headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust gasses stays vaporized (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes and mufflers, which rust from the inside out. What's unclear to me is how wrap, or ceramic coating, which should theoretically keep more heat in the system affects the steel. I would expect some embrittlement from the heat cycling, but haven't seen it (yet). 
 
 FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, my BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected the louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope.
 
 Bob
 
 
 On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
  
 Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out.? it took 15 years to happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or hastened the process. 
  Best--Michael Oritt?  
  On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
   Bob, 
  I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida. 
  Regards, 
  Charlie 
   From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers
 
  Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?
 
 
 On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
  
  Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.
  
      On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
  
      After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered. 
  Regards, 
  Charlie 
       
    
  
 
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This car was not running when I bought it so I don't know how much difference the modifications will make.
Regards,
Charlie
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 5:10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

I have had exactly the same results as Bob, as in "no noticeable change in temperature" despite those mods.
M
On Mon., Sep. 14, 2020, 12:21 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Yeah, I've heard that too (usually from the 'hot rod guys'). I wrapped my BJ8's downpipes about 8yrs/40K or so miles ago, and when I rebuilt the engine 3 years ago I checked them; no evidence of any degradation.
 
 My thinking: Rust is, of course, oxidation. Water does not rust metal, it facilitates oxidation by providing a medium for electron transfer between the oxygen in the air and the iron in steel. Manifolds, downpipes and headers get hot enough that the water in the exhaust gasses stays vaporized (until shutdown). It cools and pools in the pipes and mufflers, which rust from the inside out. What's unclear to me is how wrap, or ceramic coating, which should theoretically keep more heat in the system affects the steel. I would expect some embrittlement from the heat cycling, but haven't seen it (yet). 
 
 FWIW, I had my exhaust manifold ceramic coated (Jet Hot) and downpipes wrapped, and didn't notice much, if any cooler running (I was disappointed). The side vents seem like they would help but, curiously, my BJ8 and BN2/100M behave exactly the same WRT engine temps. I expected the louvered bonnet to help prevent overheating, esp. at idle but ... nope.
 
 Bob
 
 
On 9/14/2020 7:56 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:

Common wisdom isthatexhaust wrapped to rusting out.? it took 15 years to happen on my car and I am not convinced even now that the wrap promoted or hastened the process.
Best--Michael Oritt?
On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 10:16 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Bob,
I did wrap the headers but I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. Never intended it to be that much work, but once I started, I wasn't going to quit on it. I'm also going to install the triangular vents into the front wings which should help expel the heat. And I built a false floor on the driver's side to provide an air space that will act as an insulator. It gets hot in Florida.
Regards,
Charlie
From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 11:31:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Healeys) 100-4 Heat Shield with Headers

Well done, but I gotta ask, why not just wrap the headers?
 
 
On 9/13/2020 8:42 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:

Wow, you had fun making that. Nice work.

On Sunday, September 13, 2020, 3:38:08 PM PDT, Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

After one more modification, the fifth one, to eliminate interference with the vacuum hose fitting, I can continue with mounting the carbs. Some, including me, might say it's been over engineered.
Regards,
Charlie




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  Charlie,
 
 Sounds like you found the 'secret sauce.' Can I have some?
 
 Bob
 
 
 On 9/14/2020 9:54 AM, Charles Schott wrote:
  
  Bob, 
  I restored a 1960 BT7 about seven years ago with no special treatment to the exhaust system and it's never overheated here in Florida. That was a stainless steel system so I don't worry about the rust. 
  By the way, I'm adding a Le Mans kit to my 100-4 and will have it in the 100M registry. 
  Regards, 
  Charlie 
  
  
 
 Mark
After many years I am giving up the post of the?British austin-healey club 100 register, but would still wish to have emails from the forum.
Is it possible for you to delete
ah100register at gmail.com??

and replace it with
ah100tech at gmail.com??

It is some time since I made a contribution for all your work. If you would like to make a suggestion, I would pay by paypal as here we have pounds sterling
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

archives:? http://autox.team.net/archive

  
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 05:38:27 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 07:38:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6ux6ZkTN6=R_WTwS+4Rd3yjubd-PvKzVga3C8kBfttMg@mail.gmail.com>

Steven--

If by "open" you mean the long oblong hole the answer is yes--whether or
not by design it is a sort of early warning system of seal failure as water
getting past the seal will drip from it.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 5:00 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>    I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with
> what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at
> the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to
> admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
>    Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this?
> I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need
> the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>    Thanks in advance guys,
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> [image: IMG_20200916_132240.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 17 06:04:31 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 08:04:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6ux6ZkTN6=R_WTwS+4Rd3yjubd-PvKzVga3C8kBfttMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B6ux6ZkTN6=R_WTwS+4Rd3yjubd-PvKzVga3C8kBfttMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d697462e-4d2b-2e29-9147-0b7c6b14e20f@earthlink.net>

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the bolt seen 
on the left hand side of the pump would be removed and a grease fitting 
installed to grease the pump.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/17/20 7:38 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> Steven--
>
> If by "open" you mean the long oblong hole the answer is yes--whether 
> or not by design it is a sort?of early warning system of seal 
> failure?as water getting past the seal will?drip from it.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 5:00 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     ???I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
>     cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be
>     thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease
>     away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal?
>     I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the
>     bottom of a 100 water pump.
>     ???Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open
>     like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit
>     concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>     ???Thanks in advance guys,
>     Steven Kingsbury
>     BN1
>
>


From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 17 06:16:29 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 08:16:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
References: <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850@aol.com>

Three options on the 100 type pump cores I have. Only one has the grease nipple. 

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Sent from my iPhone

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 06:28:03 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 08:28:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <d697462e-4d2b-2e29-9147-0b7c6b14e20f@earthlink.net>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B6ux6ZkTN6=R_WTwS+4Rd3yjubd-PvKzVga3C8kBfttMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d697462e-4d2b-2e29-9147-0b7c6b14e20f@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJXV1FF0wu4n5oF0RikduJUJs93zYxDKY=91j+XpwWznQ@mail.gmail.com>

The original idea was that the slotted plug be removed and the pump be
lubricated using the oil gun. Interestingly this process is not prescribed
in the lubrication charts so was probably never done.
IMHO water pump bearings with their factory lubrication would probably long
outlast the carbon pump seal.

M

On Thu., Sep. 17, 2020, 8:05 a.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the bolt seen
> on the left hand side of the pump would be removed and a grease fitting
> installed to grease the pump.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 9/17/20 7:38 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> > Steven--
> >
> > If by "open" you mean the long oblong hole the answer is yes--whether
> > or not by design it is a sort of early warning system of seal
> > failure as water getting past the seal will drip from it.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> > On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 5:00 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
> > <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> >
> >        I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
> >     cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be
> >     thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease
> >     away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal?
> >     I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the
> >     bottom of a 100 water pump.
> >        Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open
> >     like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit
> >     concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
> >        Thanks in advance guys,
> >     Steven Kingsbury
> >     BN1
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Sep 16 18:30:40 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 20:30:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Transmission HELP!!!!
In-Reply-To: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>
References: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>
Message-ID: <1679792314.1467906.1600302639996.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I'm restoring a BN2? for a club member along with the BN1 that I'm doing for myself. His project is a story in itself, but the latest challenge is getting the transmission bolted to the engine. Normally it's an easy job, but in his case, he's buying parts for different sources in order to make a complete car. 

He had the front of his chassis cut off in preparation of installing a Corvette V8. All those parts were scrapped before he was convinced to take it back to original. That's when I stepped in. 

He bought a four cylinder engine from Healey Surgeons and a side shift transmission from a guy in California, the same guy that sold him the BN2 chassis. When I tried to install the transmission, the bell housing had a different bolt pattern since it was for a six cylinder engine. He then got the correct bell housing, but now the trans still won't bolt up because the first motion shaft is too long (see attached sketch). The distance between the trans and the engine is approximately 8 3/4" and the width of the bell housing is 8 5/16", a difference of 7/16". At this point, I'm tempted to cut off a half inch off of the shaft. 

Has anyone experience with this and can you recommend a better solution? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 5:21:30 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question 

Again, the list makes my day!! Thank you all for the responses and the knowledge. I will continue with my quest to get this car back on the road! 
Steven Kingsbury 
BN1 

On September 16, 2020 at 2:44 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: 




Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water pump seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be rebuilt. 
The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been over greased. 

M 

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump. 
Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension. 
Thanks in advance guys, 
Steven Kingsbury 
BN1 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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</blockquote>


_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 18:44:40 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 20:44:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Transmission HELP!!!!
In-Reply-To: <1679792314.1467906.1600302639996.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>
 <1679792314.1467906.1600302639996.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJthYeJ5Rdw7+d5_pmmzaEQq_FErCjMt3GF5FnHnhpCdw@mail.gmail.com>

Yes I  encountered exactly that problem when trying, at very short notice,
to rebuild 6a 100S gearbox after the owner had trashed his as a consequence
of his TERRIBLE driving skills. He did the same thing again before selling
the  "S".
I didn't have a BN2 gearbox input shaft (the 100S gearbox internals are the
same as BN2) but I had a couple of 100/6 type.
Discovered that it was only the pilot bush spigot shaft that was longer and
simply cut about 1/2" (as I recall) off with a cut off wheel and all was
good to go.

M

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 8:30 p.m. Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net>
wrote:

> I'm restoring a BN2? for a club member along with the BN1 that I'm doing
> for myself. His project is a story in itself, but the latest challenge is
> getting the transmission bolted to the engine. Normally it's an easy job,
> but in his case, he's buying parts for different sources in order to make a
> complete car.
>
> He had the front of his chassis cut off in preparation of installing a
> Corvette V8. All those parts were scrapped before he was convinced to take
> it back to original. That's when I stepped in.
>
> He bought a four cylinder engine from Healey Surgeons and a side shift
> transmission from a guy in California, the same guy that sold him the BN2
> chassis. When I tried to install the transmission, the bell housing had a
> different bolt pattern since it was for a six cylinder engine. He then got
> the correct bell housing, but now the trans still won't bolt up because the
> first motion shaft is too long (see attached sketch). The distance between
> the trans and the engine is approximately 8 3/4" and the width of the bell
> housing is 8 5/16", a difference of 7/16". At this point, I'm tempted to
> cut off a half inch off of the shaft.
>
> Has anyone experience with this and can you recommend a better solution?
> HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *To: *"Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Wednesday, September 16, 2020 5:21:30 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
>
> Again, the list makes my day!! Thank you all for the responses and the
> knowledge. I will continue with my quest to get this car back on the road!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
>
> On September 16, 2020 at 2:44 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water
> pump seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be
> rebuilt.
> The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been
> over greased.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>>    I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
>> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with
>> what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at
>> the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to
>> admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
>>    Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this?
>> I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need
>> the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>>    Thanks in advance guys,
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>
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>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 13:04:32 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 12:04:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJXV1FF0wu4n5oF0RikduJUJs93zYxDKY=91j+XpwWznQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e9d33419-8c6e-4b08-9284-83903691970c@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B6ux6ZkTN6=R_WTwS+4Rd3yjubd-PvKzVga3C8kBfttMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d697462e-4d2b-2e29-9147-0b7c6b14e20f@earthlink.net>
 <CAB3i7LJXV1FF0wu4n5oF0RikduJUJs93zYxDKY=91j+XpwWznQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQKdP2X=a59K3jmXtPZAxFjC-r5T7thUs8WkeiJDh1dWQ@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW, I've had two BN1/2 water pumps rebuilt by the Flying Dutchman in
Oregon, and I am extremely pleased with the results...

http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Sep 17, 2020 at 5:30 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The original idea was that the slotted plug be removed and the pump be
> lubricated using the oil gun. Interestingly this process is not prescribed
> in the lubrication charts so was probably never done.
> IMHO water pump bearings with their factory lubrication would probably
> long outlast the carbon pump seal.
>
> M
>
> On Thu., Sep. 17, 2020, 8:05 a.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the bolt seen
>> on the left hand side of the pump would be removed and a grease fitting
>> installed to grease the pump.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 9/17/20 7:38 AM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> > Steven--
>> >
>> > If by "open" you mean the long oblong hole the answer is yes--whether
>> > or not by design it is a sort of early warning system of seal
>> > failure as water getting past the seal will drip from it.
>> >
>> > Best--Michael Oritt
>> >
>> > On Wed, Sep 16, 2020 at 5:00 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
>> > <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> >
>> >        I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
>> >     cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be
>> >     thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease
>> >     away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal?
>> >     I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the
>> >     bottom of a 100 water pump.
>> >        Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open
>> >     like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit
>> >     concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>> >        Thanks in advance guys,
>> >     Steven Kingsbury
>> >     BN1
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 13:10:13 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 12:10:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850@aol.com>
References: <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850.ref@aol.com>
 <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSQtNUgSiHHc+bSnSyMVOruYr1LSVSVrHF=ct4EJMsNCA@mail.gmail.com>

I have five all are original (two NOS) and none came with a nipple fitting.

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Sep 17, 2020 at 5:18 AM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Three options on the 100 type pump cores I have. Only one has the grease
> nipple.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 13:22:23 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 12:22:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeSQtNUgSiHHc+bSnSyMVOruYr1LSVSVrHF=ct4EJMsNCA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850.ref@aol.com>
 <16C09984-473A-420F-8031-5D70D6F25850@aol.com>
 <CAJKrNeSQtNUgSiHHc+bSnSyMVOruYr1LSVSVrHF=ct4EJMsNCA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e9a32d45-aeff-db90-2642-9bab45c6f8fa@comcast.net>

I had an original with a plug; I think you were supposed to force some 
grease into the hole then use the plug to force it into the bearing; 
there are 'special' grease guns--they look like a big syringe--and 
special water pump grease (it is thicker than typical grease and very 
tacky).

Newer pumps and rebuilds come with sealed bearings, but they still have 
the casting boss for the plug.


On 9/17/2020 12:10 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> I have five all are original (two NOS) and none came with a nipple 
> fitting.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Thu, Sep 17, 2020 at 5:18 AM Perry Small via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Three options on the 100 type pump cores I have. Only one has the
>     grease nipple.
>
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Sep 17 19:33:59 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 21:33:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Custom E Brake Cable
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1600392850.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Have any of you ever had a custom length emergency (parking) (hand) brake cable made up using the same type materials and design as what is stock on our Austin Healeys? Looking for a shop or business that I can talk to about a project. Thanks and you can email off list if you like. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From schottc at knology.net  Fri Sep 18 07:08:27 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 09:08:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----






_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 08:46:10 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 07:46:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>

Charlie,

If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15 from
Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost exclusively
uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to your door!

https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/

https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html

https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html

Curt

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 08:47:45 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 07:47:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>

Depends on the rims. I believe original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide 
(with 48 spokes); if you look at tire guides the largest tire 
recommended for that size rim, in a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger 
tire on a 48-spoke wheel would probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 
tires on my BJ8 with 60-spoke wheels I broke several spokes). When I 
bought tires for my BN2, there were very few options in that 
size--actually, only one because it doesn't get driven all that much and 
I didn't want to break the bank--which Walmart special ordered for me. 
They are Nexen brand, made in S. Korea. I think they look good, handle 
well and were about $60/ea at the time (see attached).

A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and discovered 
the spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a little 
disappointed in myself for not catching that, but we were deep in a 
restoration and trying to get it back on the road).? Looks like a new 
set of hubs and wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with 4.5" 
rims with 175/80s. I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.

Bob


On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm 
> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so 
> tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 12:36:19 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 11:36:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>
References: <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00057957-5124-4F69-91AA-2518076898BD@comcast.net>

Correction: Tires on my BN2 are 165/80.

> On Sep 18, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ? Depends on the rims. I believe original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide (with 48 spokes); if you look at tire guides the largest tire recommended for that size rim, in a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger tire on a 48-spoke wheel would probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 tires on my BJ8 with 60-spoke wheels I broke several spokes). When I bought tires for my BN2, there were very few options in that size--actually, only one because it doesn't get driven all that much and I didn't want to break the bank--which Walmart special ordered for me. They are Nexen brand, made in S. Korea. I think they look good, handle well and were about $60/ea at the time (see attached).
> 
> A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and discovered the spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a little disappointed in myself for not catching that, but we were deep in a restoration and trying to get it back on the road).  Looks like a new set of hubs and wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with 4.5" rims with 175/80s. I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
>> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Charlie
> 
> <Garage.JPG>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
> 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Sep 18 13:16:12 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 19:16:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>,
 <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213B60DAB20DF84D9181C21A53F0@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I have Vredestein Sprint Classic 175-70 R15s on mine and I think they look too short. If I were to do it again I would go for Vredestein's 165 HR 15s They are 80 series and notably taller than the 175-70s. I got mine from Vulcan Tire and the price was right. I tried larger tires and always had clearance issues.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 2:47 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

Depends on the rims. I believe original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide (with 48 spokes); if you look at tire guides the largest tire recommended for that size rim, in a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger tire on a 48-spoke wheel would probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 tires on my BJ8 with 60-spoke wheels I broke several spokes). When I bought tires for my BN2, there were very few options in that size--actually, only one because it doesn't get driven all that much and I didn't want to break the bank--which Walmart special ordered for me. They are Nexen brand, made in S. Korea. I think they look good, handle well and were about $60/ea at the time (see attached).

A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and discovered the spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a little disappointed in myself for not catching that, but we were deep in a restoration and trying to get it back on the road).  Looks like a new set of hubs and wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with 4.5" rims with 175/80s. I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.

Bob


On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 13:43:20 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 12:43:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <00057957-5124-4F69-91AA-2518076898BD@comcast.net>
References: <f72e32c7-0aab-0016-91a2-fc955287027c@comcast.net>
 <00057957-5124-4F69-91AA-2518076898BD@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSfKE_zq5syo7aCyxqc8z8FtJ+YjvE5bEKS0Qok+ZUGwQ@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW, the Michelin 165HR15 tires on my BN1 are on Dayton 60 spoke chrome
wheels.  They work very well.

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 11:45 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Correction: Tires on my BN2 are 165/80.
>
> On Sep 18, 2020, at 8:00 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ? Depends on the rims. I believe original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide
> (with 48 spokes); if you look at tire guides the largest tire recommended
> for that size rim, in a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger tire on a 48-spoke
> wheel would probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 tires on my BJ8 with
> 60-spoke wheels I broke several spokes). When I bought tires for my BN2,
> there were very few options in that size--actually, only one because it
> doesn't get driven all that much and I didn't want to break the bank--which
> Walmart special ordered for me. They are Nexen brand, made in S. Korea. I
> think they look good, handle well and were about $60/ea at the time (see
> attached).
>
> A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and discovered the
> spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a little disappointed
> in myself for not catching that, but we were deep in a restoration and
> trying to get it back on the road).  Looks like a new set of hubs and
> wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with 4.5" rims with 175/80s.
> I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> <Garage.JPG>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From gbrierton at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 18 14:53:43 2020
From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 20:53:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 2 Console
Message-ID: <BN7PR03MB34102779CD11E52A2C8C529FB33F0@BN7PR03MB3410.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>

Need to sell mine.  Blanking plate in place.  Side of arm rest needs upholstery repair or replace.  What would be a good asking price?  Seriously.
ary Brierton
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 14:57:30 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 16:57:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6Xn10R+792d4VsYKoSig29zFp+HkJQybcAGKwhNychAg@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I got a lot of great comments on my fuel pump issue and thanks to all who
responded with things to check.

Ultimately, I had to remove the fuel pump and connect it to the battery.
No joy.  So the pump will be shipped off tomorrow to Tom Ball to be rebuilt.

This is one of those "while I am at it, I might as well" moments and I now
will install a backup pump.  I have to figure out the best way to wire it
in for my control,  Lots of good suggestions on that front as well.

Thanks again for all of the great comments.  What a list of experts!

Fred

66 BJ8
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From 55healey at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 15:06:10 2020
From: 55healey at comcast.net (55healey at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 14:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>

I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,

A smashing deal.  

They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.

Rob


> On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
> 
> If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15 from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to your door!
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 15:30:23 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 14:30:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ie9amfl4ng4ro717g2pvheb1081okl1llr@4ax.com>

I agree, too.  I ordered XZX tires because I thought they had the
tread pattern that was available in 1953/54.  Longstone got them to my
post office in less than a week.  I don't know how they do it.  They
were newly manufactured.  Made in Serbia if I remember correctly.

-Roland

On Fri, 18 Sep 2020 14:06:10 -0700, you wrote:

>I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,
>
>A smashing deal.  
>
>They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.
>
>Rob
>
>
>> On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Charlie,
>> 
>> If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15 from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to your door!
>> 
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
>> 
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
>> 
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
>> 
>> Curt
>> 
>> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Charlie

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From ah3000me at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 16:06:42 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 18:06:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>

Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.
Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of
them worked.

How many different FS series keys were made?

- Tom
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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 16:16:57 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 18:16:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJ3UBrz2OXk6s12mjx39Y8UtezyWjhB0=G9eGND6MFYEQ@mail.gmail.com>

The tires from Longstone, esp the XAS 180R15, look like they'd fit our big
Healeys much better than 165R15 alternatives, but the XAS tires require
tubes I think.  Can you use them as a tubeless tire?   I'm about a year
away, just thinking ahead.

- Tom


On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM 55healey at comcast.net <55healey at comcast.net>
wrote:

> I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,
>
> A smashing deal.
>
> They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost
> or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.
>
> Rob
>
>
> > On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > Charlie,
> >
> > If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15
> from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost
> exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to
> your door!
> >
> > https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
> >
> >
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
> >
> >
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Charlie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 17:01:45 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 19:01:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 window tip screws
Message-ID: <CAH1MS--Jy5mcSVK-LPhV04XnsT1qQS+TFsbfJj_MCAoqK1tDJw@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know the size screw used to secure the black plastic tip that
mounts at the top of the window rail into the "vent window" assembly?   Or
where one can buy them?   I have the new black plastic tips, but I've
misplaced my old screws.    Thanks -skip- BJ8 "Gladys"
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 21:28:02 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 23:28:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Longstone Tires for our cars
Message-ID: <009f01d68e34$e21d4160$a657c420$@gmail.com>

I agree also.  I ordered michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires for AH BJ8 from
Longstone.  The tires arrived faster and less expensive to the Post Office
near my house faster than you could from any USA provider.  Also, they know
tires for our cars

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
55healey at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 5:06 PM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,

A smashing deal.  

They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost or
tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.

Rob


> On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
> 
> If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15 from
Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost exclusively uses
Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to your door!
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austi
> n-healey-100.html
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austi
> n-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they
sell would be preferable. Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com



From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 22:17:00 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 21:17:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6Xn10R+792d4VsYKoSig29zFp+HkJQybcAGKwhNychAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6Xn10R+792d4VsYKoSig29zFp+HkJQybcAGKwhNychAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2c956cdf-2e2e-57c9-7069-d7a46de073ff@comcast.net>

More info on Tom Ball, por favor. Dave DuBois is no longer with us.

On 9/18/2020 1:57 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I got a lot of great comments on my fuel pump issue and thanks to all 
> who responded with things to check.
>
> Ultimately, I had to remove the fuel pump and connect it to the 
> battery.? No joy.? So the pump will be shipped off tomorrow to Tom 
> Ball to be rebuilt.
>
> This is one of those "while I am at it, I might as well" moments and I 
> now will install a backup pump.? I have to figure out the best way to 
> wire it in for my control,? Lots of good suggestions on that front as 
> well.
>
> Thanks again for all of the great comments.? What a list?of experts!
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Sep 18 22:20:12 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 21:20:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <22944088-92c7-6859-40ea-03875dfeca5d@comcast.net>

My guess? Two.

Pete Groh may have the knowledge you seek: http://www.britishcarkeys.com/


On 9/18/2020 3:06 PM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition 
> key.? Just on a lark,? I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, 
> and one of them worked.
>
> How many different FS series keys were made?
>
> - Tom
>
>


From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Sep 18 23:57:19 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 05:57:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
Message-ID: <2f652fdb0c3df51a9de4001e5152b4ef648bfa08@webmail>

Here is the factory original 590-15 Dunlop Road Speed mounted on the
standard 48 spoke rim. This is an early car and it has the "big"
fenders and the "A" springs, so the clearance is tighter than the
later cars. They do fit and have not seen any scrubbing, but try to
put your hand in to roll the car and watch out for pinching! I have to
carefully roll it from the rear tires.
Also, here is picture of the Michelin 165SR 15 radials mounted on the
stock 60 spoke wheels on my BJ8 which, by the way originally, when
new, likewise came with Dunlop 590-15 bias tires. I still have the
spare. 
As a driving set for the 100, I bought Michelin165-15 to use on tours,
but due to the covid have not tried them out. They will have good
clearance as they are much shorter than the 590s. The bias tires are a
bit scary and unless you use tire guards under them when storing the
car, they run with a flat spot for about 5 miles. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
via Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Friday September 18 2020 12:18:08PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

   I have Vredestein Sprint Classic 175-70 R15s on mine and I think
they look too short. If I were to do it again I would go for
Vredestein's 165 HR 15s They are 80 series and notably taller than the
175-70s. I got mine from Vulcan Tire and the price was right. I tried
larger tires and always had clearance issues.  
   Bill Lawrence  BN1 #554  
-------------------------
 FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Bob Spidell 
 SENT: Friday, September 18, 2020 2:47 PM
 TO: healeys at autox.team.net 
 SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires    Depends on the rims. I believe
original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide (with 48 spokes); if you
look at tire guides the largest tire recommended for that size rim, in
a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger tire on a 48-spoke wheel would
probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 tires on my BJ8 with 60-spoke
wheels I broke several spokes). When I bought tires for my BN2, there
were very few options in that size--actually, only one because it
doesn't get driven all that much and I didn't want to break the
bank--which Walmart special ordered for me. They are Nexen brand, made
in S. Korea. I think they look good, handle well and were about $60/ea
at the time (see attached).

 A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and
discovered the spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a
little disappointed in myself for not catching that, but we were deep
in a restoration and trying to get it back on the road). Looks like a
new set of hubs and wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with
4.5" rims with 175/80s. I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.

 Bob

 On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
    Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy
I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so
tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks. 
  Regards, 
  Charlie   

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 19 03:28:40 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 05:28:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
In-Reply-To: <22944088-92c7-6859-40ea-03875dfeca5d@comcast.net>
References: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <22944088-92c7-6859-40ea-03875dfeca5d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <030f01d68e67$43499600$c9dcc200$@rr.com>

Phase 1 BJ8s used FP series keys, Phase 2 used FS series.
A survey of the BJ8 registry for 9,475 cars shows 77 different FS keys were used from FS.833 to FS.979.

This reminds me of when I was in high school and I discovered that the key to my '55 Chevy would start my grandpa's '57 just fine.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

---------------------
Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of them worked.

How many different FS series keys were made?   

- Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 12:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?

My guess? Two.

Pete Groh may have the knowledge you seek: http://www.britishcarkeys.com/


On 9/18/2020 3:06 PM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition 
> key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, 
> and one of them worked.
>
> How many different FS series keys were made?
>
> - Tom
>
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com



From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Sep 19 06:32:25 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 08:32:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <2c956cdf-2e2e-57c9-7069-d7a46de073ff@comcast.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6Xn10R+792d4VsYKoSig29zFp+HkJQybcAGKwhNychAg@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c956cdf-2e2e-57c9-7069-d7a46de073ff@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1600518755.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

He took over Dave DuBois? business (at Dave?s recommendation) ? and some years ago I picked up his business card when he used to have a booth on Franklin St. during the Watkins Glen Vintage Festival.  No email or website ? just the phone:

British Fuel Pump Restorations & Sales 
4410 Westmont Blvd. 
Copley, OH 44321 
Tom Ball, Owner 
330-666-2642 
MG-T,A,B series, A-H, Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley

Sarah Carr
BN1 (& MGs)  in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 12:17 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump

More info on Tom Ball, por favor. Dave DuBois is no longer with us.
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From sdesalvo at frontiernet.net  Sat Sep 19 07:34:11 2020
From: sdesalvo at frontiernet.net (sdesalvo at frontiernet.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 13:34:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] OD AH 100-4
References: <1007529858.4203235.1600522451879.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1007529858.4203235.1600522451879@mail.yahoo.com>

Would low transmission oil cause OD to not engage? Thanks in advance.Sam
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 19 08:03:12 2020
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 10:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD AH 100-4
In-Reply-To: <1007529858.4203235.1600522451879@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1007529858.4203235.1600522451879@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B907D1D5-0867-48DD-A69A-7902CC0B3244@yahoo.com>

Sam , that?s usually the first thing to check .  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 19, 2020, at 9:36 AM, sdesalvo--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Would low transmission oil cause OD to not engage? Thanks in advance.
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Sep 19 09:00:35 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 15:00:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <2f652fdb0c3df51a9de4001e5152b4ef648bfa08@webmail>
References: <2f652fdb0c3df51a9de4001e5152b4ef648bfa08@webmail>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213847E53F0A23B6F9BB560A53C0@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Yeah, the main problem I?ve had is with the width.  Wider tires don?t work well with the tighter opening.
________________________________
From: gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 5:57 AM
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

Here is the factory original 590-15 Dunlop Road Speed mounted on the standard 48 spoke rim. This is an early car and it has the "big" fenders and the "A" springs, so the clearance is tighter than the later cars. They do fit and have not seen any scrubbing, but try to put your hand in to roll the car and watch out for pinching!  I have to carefully roll it from the rear tires.

Also, here is picture of the Michelin 165SR 15 radials mounted on the stock 60 spoke wheels on my BJ8 which, by the way originally, when new, likewise came with Dunlop 590-15 bias tires. I still have the spare.

As a driving set for the 100, I bought Michelin165-15 to use on tours, but due to the covid have not tried them out. They will have good clearance as they are much shorter than the 590s.  The bias tires are a bit scary and unless you use tire guards under them when storing the car, they run with a flat spot for about 5 miles. Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys"
To: "Bob Spidell", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc:
Sent: Friday September 18 2020 12:18:08PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

I have Vredestein Sprint Classic 175-70 R15s on mine and I think they look too short. If I were to do it again I would go for Vredestein's 165 HR 15s They are 80 series and notably taller than the 175-70s. I got mine from Vulcan Tire and the price was right. I tried larger tires and always had clearance issues.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 2:47 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

Depends on the rims. I believe original rims for a 100 are 4 inches wide (with 48 spokes); if you look at tire guides the largest tire recommended for that size rim, in a radial, is a 165/70-15. A larger tire on a 48-spoke wheel would probably break spokes (when I put 185/70 tires on my BJ8 with 60-spoke wheels I broke several spokes). When I bought tires for my BN2, there were very few options in that size--actually, only one because it doesn't get driven all that much and I didn't want to break the bank--which Walmart special ordered for me. They are Nexen brand, made in S. Korea. I think they look good, handle well and were about $60/ea at the time (see attached).

A few days ago I pulled the wheels to top up the shocks and discovered the spines are worn on both the wheels and the hubs (I'm a little disappointed in myself for not catching that, but we were deep in a restoration and trying to get it back on the road).  Looks like a new set of hubs and wheels is in my future; I'm debating going with 4.5" rims with 175/80s. I'll give Allan Hendrix a call when it's time.

Bob


On 9/18/2020 6:08 AM, Charles Schott via Healeys wrote:
Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Sep 19 09:01:28 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 08:01:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <2c956cdf-2e2e-57c9-7069-d7a46de073ff@comcast.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6Xn10R+792d4VsYKoSig29zFp+HkJQybcAGKwhNychAg@mail.gmail.com>
 <2c956cdf-2e2e-57c9-7069-d7a46de073ff@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ef7f35c2-90e4-aed8-4413-a877262fbaee@comcast.net>

Thanks Sarah!

Bob

On 9/19/2020 5:32 AM, S.Carr wrote:
>
> He took over Dave DuBois? business (at Dave?s recommendation) ? and 
> some years ago I picked up his business card when he used to have a 
> booth on Franklin St. during the Watkins Glen Vintage Festival.? No 
> email or website ? just the phone:
>
>
> British Fuel Pump Restorations & Sales
> 4410 Westmont Blvd.
> Copley, OH 44321
> Tom Ball, Owner
> 330-666-2642
> MG-T,A,B series, A-H, Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 (& MGs) ?in PA
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent: *Saturday, September 19, 2020 12:17 AM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump
>
> More info on Tom Ball, por favor. Dave DuBois is no longer with us.
>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Sep 19 09:04:03 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 15:04:03 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
In-Reply-To: <030f01d68e67$43499600$c9dcc200$@rr.com>
References: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <22944088-92c7-6859-40ea-03875dfeca5d@comcast.net>,
 <030f01d68e67$43499600$c9dcc200$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB22132E78C3833D134468725FA53C0@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

The FS key for my 100 also fit my 57 Land Rover.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Max Byers via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 9:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?

Phase 1 BJ8s used FP series keys, Phase 2 used FS series.
A survey of the BJ8 registry for 9,475 cars shows 77 different FS keys were used from FS.833 to FS.979.

This reminds me of when I was in high school and I discovered that the key to my '55 Chevy would start my grandpa's '57 just fine.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

---------------------
Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of them worked.

How many different FS series keys were made?

- Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 12:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?

My guess? Two.

Pete Groh may have the knowledge you seek: http://www.britishcarkeys.com/


On 9/18/2020 3:06 PM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition
> key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8,
> and one of them worked.
>
> How many different FS series keys were made?
>
> - Tom
>
>

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 19 10:24:00 2020
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 12:24:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 window tip screws
In-Reply-To: <CAH1MS--Jy5mcSVK-LPhV04XnsT1qQS+TFsbfJj_MCAoqK1tDJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH1MS--Jy5mcSVK-LPhV04XnsT1qQS+TFsbfJj_MCAoqK1tDJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdj+wd=2uW5A8mZeSkXhg2Rtpz42=DG5swZPjYUCBC26bg@mail.gmail.com>

According to the Parts List as near as I can figure out, it is a PMZ0204,
or pan head screw, zinc, #6, 1/4" long.
Elton

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 7:02 PM Skip Saunders via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Does anyone know the size screw used to secure the black plastic tip that
> mounts at the top of the window rail into the "vent window" assembly?   Or
> where one can buy them?   I have the new black plastic tips, but I've
> misplaced my old screws.    Thanks -skip- BJ8 "Gladys"
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 19 18:51:26 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 00:51:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
In-Reply-To: <030f01d68e67$43499600$c9dcc200$@rr.com>
References: <CANQM1PJcwuz3WLV9+ghs=D1W-6yoXpU3WhxLu6G2k0p+FQub3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <22944088-92c7-6859-40ea-03875dfeca5d@comcast.net>,
 <030f01d68e67$43499600$c9dcc200$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB4664DBFB7CFB6D5BEFE89403A43D0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Ineresting
. My Phase 1 has FS keys. I thought it was original. Looking at the "Heritage" sheet it states FP.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Max Byers via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 2:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?

Phase 1 BJ8s used FP series keys, Phase 2 used FS series.
A survey of the BJ8 registry for 9,475 cars shows 77 different FS keys were used from FS.833 to FS.979.

This reminds me of when I was in high school and I discovered that the key to my '55 Chevy would start my grandpa's '57 just fine.


Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

---------------------
Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of them worked.

How many different FS series keys were made?

- Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 12:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?

My guess? Two.

Pete Groh may have the knowledge you seek: http://www.britishcarkeys.com/


On 9/18/2020 3:06 PM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition
> key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8,
> and one of them worked.
>
> How many different FS series keys were made?
>
> - Tom
>
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Sep 20 06:09:14 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 08:09:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys - what are the odds?
References: <81C62E0D-C35B-40CA-929F-458C399E5079.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81C62E0D-C35B-40CA-929F-458C399E5079@aol.com>

Can?t really answer the ?how many ? question. What I have noticed over the years is that as the locks on our LBC?s age and wear that keys seem to be more interchangeable. I have a ring of original and duplicate keys, maybe 35 to 40,  and it is amazing how often I have found a key to open a trunk, door or other lock. To a lock smith my comment may seem ridiculous or not but it always amazes me when the old key ring comes through again. 
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 07:10:45 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 09:10:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJ3UBrz2OXk6s12mjx39Y8UtezyWjhB0=G9eGND6MFYEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
 <CANQM1PJ3UBrz2OXk6s12mjx39Y8UtezyWjhB0=G9eGND6MFYEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4XzbPNpFQFhFCbrNGnQQYaQMGO=iaUE0Fq9NGkQxZ5NQ@mail.gmail.com>

I put 180 XAS's on my 100 (60 spoke wheels) about two years ago.  They are
wonderful tires--provide good handling in wet or dry, track well at speed,
fit fine and look just right--plus they give just a bit more ground
clearance.

Best--Michael Oritt
1954 Le Mans

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:30 PM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> The tires from Longstone, esp the XAS 180R15, look like they'd fit our big
> Healeys much better than 165R15 alternatives, but the XAS tires require
> tubes I think.  Can you use them as a tubeless tire?   I'm about a year
> away, just thinking ahead.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM 55healey at comcast.net <55healey at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,
>>
>> A smashing deal.
>>
>> They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost
>> or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>> > On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > Charlie,
>> >
>> > If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15
>> from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost
>> exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to
>> your door!
>> >
>> > https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
>> >
>> >
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
>> >
>> >
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
>> >
>> > Curt
>> >
>> > On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
>> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
>> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Charlie
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 10:59:35 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 09:59:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJ3UBrz2OXk6s12mjx39Y8UtezyWjhB0=G9eGND6MFYEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20200918013511.DF7E7A0ED9@autox.team.net>
 <1857706846.2131264.1600434507469.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeRuMMoTzxDa2nX6wjQJUAabMg03KT0=XmG+J+0ribhWFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <EA7C36EF-572E-4EE6-AC51-717E8CC813D3@comcast.net>
 <CANQM1PJ3UBrz2OXk6s12mjx39Y8UtezyWjhB0=G9eGND6MFYEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNgVDOMCa4faX1Ks3BJw1_jhi5fx_ctjBNWtYiTYDp+CQ@mail.gmail.com>

Indeed they do fill the wheel openings much better than the 165s.  There is
one more benefit to the Michelin XAS 180s.  Because they are a bit taller,
there is better ground clearance.

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 3:30 PM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> The tires from Longstone, esp the XAS 180R15, look like they'd fit our big
> Healeys much better than 165R15 alternatives, but the XAS tires require
> tubes I think.  Can you use them as a tubeless tire?   I'm about a year
> away, just thinking ahead.
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM 55healey at comcast.net <55healey at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,
>>
>> A smashing deal.
>>
>> They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost
>> or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>> > On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > Charlie,
>> >
>> > If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15
>> from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost
>> exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to
>> your door!
>> >
>> > https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
>> >
>> >
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
>> >
>> >
>> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
>> >
>> > Curt
>> >
>> > On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
>> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
>> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Charlie
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
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>
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From lgalper1 at cox.net  Sun Sep 20 12:42:48 2020
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou Galper)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 11:42:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
Message-ID: <292b6716-0149-cef9-f35b-45534e7e84f9@cox.net>

The owner at triple-C.com has all the original wilmot keys by code number - he can make a copy of any of them !
I also bought an original FNR5 for a Jaguar gas door from them.

Also, most of these keys will work in multiple locks due to advanced age of locks and keys.
Opened Jaguar door with worn MGB key ---

Lou
55 BN1
64 MGB





 ?Phase 1 BJ8s used FP series keys, Phase 2 used FS series.
A survey of the BJ8 registry for 9,475 cars shows 77 different FS keys were used from FS.833 to FS.979.

This reminds me of when I was in high school and I discovered that the key to my '55 Chevy would start my grandpa's '57 just fine.


---------------------
Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.  Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of them worked.


From lgalper1 at cox.net  Sun Sep 20 13:20:08 2020
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou Galper)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 12:20:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
Message-ID: <90b1541f-b8db-0b5e-285f-3b30b2d10450@cox.net>

I also use the Michelin 180 tires -  From the side view, they fill up the wheel opening -- look great.
No sense skimping on the tires, makes the total package awesome.
Many of the owners in the Healey Assoc in the Los Angeles area are using them also.
I can send a picture if you like.

Lou
AHC San Diego



Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
Message-ID:
	<CAPTa0B4XzbPNpFQFhFCbrNGnQQYaQMGO=iaUE0Fq9NGkQxZ5NQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I put 180 XAS's on my 100 (60 spoke wheels) about two years ago.  They are
wonderful tires--provide good handling in wet or dry, track well at speed,
fit fine and look just right--plus they give just a bit more ground
clearance.

Best--Michael Oritt


From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 20 14:11:51 2020
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 20:11:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] British tap and dies
References: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350@mail.yahoo.com>

Looking for 7/16" BSF die. Metric & Multistandard is out of stock.? I'm in L. A. so anything on this side of the world.Ray
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 14:16:42 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 16:16:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FS series keys -- what are the odds?
In-Reply-To: <292b6716-0149-cef9-f35b-45534e7e84f9@cox.net>
References: <292b6716-0149-cef9-f35b-45534e7e84f9@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZd7ALKy7YB1jWA3mFdhb5k+xDSv71cDzDadjdf4bVnSkA@mail.gmail.com>

Another example of the brilliance of British auto engineering.  No LBC
owners are paying $200 to get a reprogrammed lost key fob.

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 2:54 PM Lou Galper via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The owner at triple-C.com has all the original wilmot keys by code number
> - he can make a copy of any of them !
> I also bought an original FNR5 for a Jaguar gas door from them.
>
> Also, most of these keys will work in multiple locks due to advanced age
> of locks and keys.
> Opened Jaguar door with worn MGB key ---
>
> Lou
> 55 BN1
> 64 MGB
>
>
>
>
>
>   Phase 1 BJ8s used FP series keys, Phase 2 used FS series.
> A survey of the BJ8 registry for 9,475 cars shows 77 different FS keys
> were used from FS.833 to FS.979.
>
> This reminds me of when I was in high school and I discovered that the key
> to my '55 Chevy would start my grandpa's '57 just fine.
>
>
> ---------------------
> Our friends with a '66 MGB they bought new lost their last ignition key.
> Just on a lark,  I suggested trying the keys from my '66 BJ8, and one of
> them worked.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 20 14:20:38 2020
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 20:20:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] British tap and dies
In-Reply-To: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1921660583.4482711.1600633238982@mail.yahoo.com>

 Never mind British Tool had what I needed.Ray

    On Sunday, September 20, 2020, 1:12:49 PM PDT, Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Looking for 7/16" BSF die. Metric & Multistandard is out of stock.? I'm in L. A. so anything on this side of the world.Ray
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Sep 20 14:24:20 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 16:24:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] British tap and dies
In-Reply-To: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1584229854.4498698.1600632711350@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ce9f4fd2-1dee-cf3f-8c8c-4a0a4209141c@earthlink.net>

https://britishfasteners.com/die-bsf-7-16-18-4861.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/20/20 4:11 PM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote:
> Looking for 7/16" BSF die. Metric & Multistandard is out of stock.? 
> I'm in L. A. so anything on this side of the world.
> Ray
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From schottc at knology.net  Sun Sep 20 16:08:49 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 18:08:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <90b1541f-b8db-0b5e-285f-3b30b2d10450@cox.net>
References: <90b1541f-b8db-0b5e-285f-3b30b2d10450@cox.net>
Message-ID: <1635292949.3129754.1600639729351.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Lou, 

Yes, I would like to see a picture of the tire. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Lou Galper" <lgalper1 at cox.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2020 2:20:08 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires 

I also use the Michelin 180 tires - From the side view, they fill up the wheel opening -- look great. 
No sense skimping on the tires, makes the total package awesome. 
Many of the owners in the Healey Assoc in the Los Angeles area are using them also. 
I can send a picture if you like. 

Lou 
AHC San Diego 



Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires 
Message-ID: 
<CAPTa0B4XzbPNpFQFhFCbrNGnQQYaQMGO=iaUE0Fq9NGkQxZ5NQ at mail.gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

I put 180 XAS's on my 100 (60 spoke wheels) about two years ago. They are 
wonderful tires--provide good handling in wet or dry, track well at speed, 
fit fine and look just right--plus they give just a bit more ground 
clearance. 

Best--Michael Oritt 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Sep 20 16:32:27 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 23:32:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
Message-ID: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hello,

 

Does this recommendation apply to 3000s as well. Just that my tyres, though not particularly worn, are probably a bit old. Need to look at them but car is not handy right now.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: 20 September 2020 18:00
To: Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com <mailto:ah3000me at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires

 

Indeed they do fill the wheel openings much better than the 165s.  There is one more benefit to the Michelin XAS 180s.  Because they are a bit taller, there is better ground clearance. 

 

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 3:30 PM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

The tires from Longstone, esp the XAS 180R15, look like they'd fit our big Healeys much better than 165R15 alternatives, but the XAS tires require tubes I think.  Can you use them as a tubeless tire?   I'm about a year away, just thinking ahead.

 

- Tom

 

 

On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM 55healey at comcast.net <mailto:55healey at comcast.net>  <55healey at comcast.net <mailto:55healey at comcast.net> > wrote:

I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,

A smashing deal.  

They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.

Rob


> On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
> 
> If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15 from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to your door!
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
> 
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 17:11:57 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 19:11:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch (I think) problem
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6YV8Bwun=fgsAONw=mybaf4Q4nsFxnWdz3ou=qDSNTMQ@mail.gmail.com>

Lately I haven been noticing that it takes an increased amount of effort to
shift from gear to gear--up or down--no crunching, no grinding, just
resistance.  During a drive today I tested the disengagement of the clutch
and with the car in first unless I have the pedal hard down against the
floor there seems to be a slight but perceptible bit of engagement and the
car will creep very slightly ahead on level ground.   This suggests to me
that the clutch pedal is not being all it can be and while I have not yet
been under the car I am wondering if this is more likely to be a hydraulic
issue (primary or secondary cylinder) or one involving the linkage--wear on
clevis pin, egging out of holes, etc.

What's the best way of diagnosing an issue such as this?

Best--Michael Oritt
100 with Smitty's transmission and hydraulic clutch
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 17:20:39 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 19:20:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension issue
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B587LS-s+no00HxF6xhOY7M+hYPN9DyT7iUL+o+3qzoLQ@mail.gmail.com>

There's been some road construction in my neighborhood and it's clear that
my car's suspension is reacting very harshly. The front end seems okay with
no wheel hopping at speed or bad rebounding but the rear seems to bottom
out on even small changes of pavement. It's been a while--at least 10
years--since I fitted new DW springs and the Putske Bilstein conversion is
perhaps a bit more dated.

Is there a way of testing or evaluating suspension components or is this
all simply subjective?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 17:21:37 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 16:21:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNDQh2swv0HvPCkkG6exMOoY_1bnF=+Y0a2gRHwFSdpnw@mail.gmail.com>

Yes. I have them on my BT7.

On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 3:33 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> Does this recommendation apply to 3000s as well. Just that my tyres,
> though not particularly worn, are probably a bit old. Need to look at them
> but car is not handy right now.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *richard
> mayor via Healeys
> *Sent:* 20 September 2020 18:00
> *To:* Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
>
>
>
> Indeed they do fill the wheel openings much better than the 165s.  There
> is one more benefit to the Michelin XAS 180s.  Because they are a bit
> taller, there is better ground clearance.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 3:30 PM Tom via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> The tires from Longstone, esp the XAS 180R15, look like they'd fit our big
> Healeys much better than 165R15 alternatives, but the XAS tires require
> tubes I think.  Can you use them as a tubeless tire?   I'm about a year
> away, just thinking ahead.
>
>
>
> - Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM 55healey at comcast.net <55healey at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> I agree with Curt using Longstone Tires,
>
> A smashing deal.
>
> They look great, great price, 5 day delivery to Seattle, no shipping cost
> or tax.  I have done it twice and I am delighted.
>
> Rob
>
>
> > On Sep 18, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > Charlie,
> >
> > If you want an original looking radial, I used Michelin XAS 165 HR15
> from Longstone tyres.  Lynn Martin (Forever Healeys) also almost
> exclusively uses Michelin Tires from Longstone.  Free shipping right to
> your door!
> >
> > https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/
> >
> >
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100.html
> >
> >
> https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/classic-car-tyres/austin-healey/austin-healey-100/165hr15-michelin-xas-disabled.html
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 6:09 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > Can anyone recommend a correct looking tire for the 100-4? The guy I'm
> restoring the BN2 for can get a substantial discount at Coker, so tires
> they sell would be preferable. Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Charlie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 20 19:25:58 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 18:25:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B587LS-s+no00HxF6xhOY7M+hYPN9DyT7iUL+o+3qzoLQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B587LS-s+no00HxF6xhOY7M+hYPN9DyT7iUL+o+3qzoLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c140fa82-ff80-702c-a658-6430e0ef5949@comcast.net>

Does the rear end sag more than it used to? Weak springs. If the rear 
end bounces more than one bounce when you press down on it, weak shocks.

It's a start.

Bob

On 9/20/2020 4:20 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> There's been some road construction in my neighborhood and it's clear 
> that my car's suspension is reacting very harshly. The front end seems 
> okay with no wheel hopping at speed or bad rebounding but the rear 
> seems to bottom out on even small changes of pavement. It's been a 
> while--at least 10 years--since I fitted new DW springs and the Putske 
> Bilstein conversion is perhaps a bit more dated.
>
> Is there a way of testing or evaluating suspension components or is 
> this all simply subjective?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>

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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 20 20:02:23 2020
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 02:02:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch (I think) problem
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6YV8Bwun=fgsAONw=mybaf4Q4nsFxnWdz3ou=qDSNTMQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YV8Bwun=fgsAONw=mybaf4Q4nsFxnWdz3ou=qDSNTMQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86546823.4201131.1600653743722@mail.yahoo.com>

 Check "free play" ie slack before clutch begins to dis-engage ...too much and clutch plate/pressure plate is not pulling far enough away from the flywheel for the plate to fully "float"

Jim

    On Sunday, September 20, 2020, 4:13:09 PM PDT, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Lately I haven been noticing that it takes an increased amount of effort to shift from gear to gear--up or down--no crunching, no grinding, just resistance.? During a drive today I tested the disengagement of the clutch and with the car in first unless I have the pedal hard down against the floor there seems to be a slight but perceptible bit of engagement and the car will creep very slightly ahead on level ground.? ?This suggests to me that the clutch pedal is not being all it can be and while I have not yet been under the car I am wondering if this is more likely to be a hydraulic issue (primary or secondary cylinder) or one involving the linkage--wear on clevis pin, egging out of holes, etc.??

What's the best way of diagnosing an issue such as this?

Best--Michael Oritt100 with Smitty's transmission and hydraulic clutch_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 20:39:04 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 22:39:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch (I think) problem
In-Reply-To: <86546823.4201131.1600653743722@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YV8Bwun=fgsAONw=mybaf4Q4nsFxnWdz3ou=qDSNTMQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <86546823.4201131.1600653743722@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+S_8fmJKE=2OyRP7kDoqr+3nEA2hzqzo=xZXuFg_TpSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Assuming that you have checked the fluid level what you describe is not
good news.
If the fluid level is down then air in the system is a distinct possibility
however,  if there is no air in the system, then a problem with the clutch
itself is the most likely cause.
I presume that it grinds somewhat as you try to engage reverse which is not
"syncronized" on the Toyota 5 speed as I recall.

M


On Sun., Sep. 20, 2020, 10:14 p.m. jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Check "free play" ie slack before clutch begins to dis-engage ...too much
> and clutch plate/pressure plate is not pulling far enough away from the
> flywheel for the plate to fully "float"
>
> Jim
>
> On Sunday, September 20, 2020, 4:13:09 PM PDT, Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Lately I haven been noticing that it takes an increased amount of effort
> to shift from gear to gear--up or down--no crunching, no grinding, just
> resistance.  During a drive today I tested the disengagement of the clutch
> and with the car in first unless I have the pedal hard down against the
> floor there seems to be a slight but perceptible bit of engagement and the
> car will creep very slightly ahead on level ground.   This suggests to me
> that the clutch pedal is not being all it can be and while I have not yet
> been under the car I am wondering if this is more likely to be a hydraulic
> issue (primary or secondary cylinder) or one involving the linkage--wear on
> clevis pin, egging out of holes, etc.
>
> What's the best way of diagnosing an issue such as this?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 100 with Smitty's transmission and hydraulic clutch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 06:09:43 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:09:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts
from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.  He'd
like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even
condition.  What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be
taking a chance?  Any idea what model engine this is?

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville
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From qualitas.jack at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 06:11:38 2020
From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 07:11:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] What Are The Odds?
Message-ID: <CAGhWe-f2_Un3hPm7YG1DtyguL4xgBcHTHOr10kHNpbXH=zvF2w@mail.gmail.com>

The key number for my early Sprite was stamped on the face of the
tumbler.(We obviously lived in better times then.) One day I was sitting in
a friend's Nash Metropolitan and noticing the use of the same parts in the
dashboard. I realised the number on the face of his tumbler was the same as
mine! What were the odds?

Here's one about our wonderful postal system. I bought a used postal Jeep
from the USPS. When I went to pick it up I noticed a chain had been bolted
to the front by the door. When I asked why it was there the explanation was
simple. Whoever specified the door locks had asked that ALL units have the
same key! Steal one and you could get into any  delivery Jeep. The idea of
the chanin was that you ran the chain through the door handle and used a
padlock to secure the car.

Jack
BT7
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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 06:40:41 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 07:40:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjqeki+G53kp4iOM2TiCJdUmEBuE+bOzL+RKQ=x-VO6keQ@mail.gmail.com>

Rick,
Does it have an engine tag?  If so, it can be ID for model from that.
Right,  buyer is taking a chance no matter what.

Neil Anderson

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 7:13 AM HealeyRick via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts
> from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.  He'd
> like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even
> condition.  What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be
> taking a chance?  Any idea what model engine this is?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 21 06:41:59 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:41:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c97d611-7dab-cf1a-374a-cee2bf20fc23@earthlink.net>

Looks like the tag has been removed.? Narrow it down a bit - pre BJ8 - 
mechanical tach drive.? Intake manifold is post Longbridge 2 port head.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 9/21/20 8:09 AM, HealeyRick via Healeys wrote:
> I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey 
> parts from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt 
> engine.? He'd like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its 
> internal parts or even condition.? What would you guys do to market it 
> since the buyer would be taking a chance?? Any idea what model engine 
> this is?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 06:46:09 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:46:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <020e01d69015$2e4e6190$8aeb24b0$@gmail.com>

Simon:

 

I bought the Michelin  XAS 180R15 from Longstone and installed them on my 67 BJ8 for the same reason that my 165 tires were old not worn. They fill up the wheel wells very nicely and hold the pavement. The ride is great.  I improved the ride removing 90%+ of the 50-65 mph shake by have them shaved so the tire is truly round and rubber meets the pavement flat.  First time in 30 years of owning a Healey I have a smooth ride and can go over 50 mph when my wife is with me.  Finding a tire shop who has a machine to shave the tires is difficult.

 

The only flaw in them is my right rear tire rubs the dog leg flange when I make a hard turn to the left.  Searched the archives and found 3 other big Healey listeners over the past 20 year who reported the same problem on the same wheel.  So either it is a situation whereby it affects only a few cars which maybe have right rear fenders with a smaller opening from the factory or my restorer used a different flange to fix the rusted dog leg.  Who knows.  Yes, I checked the dimensions and the flange is slightly longer from the door jam.

 

Nevertheless, I love the ride and recommend them

 

Bob Begani  BJ8 

 

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 06:48:18 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:48:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension issue
In-Reply-To: <c140fa82-ff80-702c-a658-6430e0ef5949@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B587LS-s+no00HxF6xhOY7M+hYPN9DyT7iUL+o+3qzoLQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <c140fa82-ff80-702c-a658-6430e0ef5949@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5RaZyYC6QGPDv-0NtjEz0XXmxfMhzbxZdYzSmRDja6FQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

Q--Does the rear end sag more than it used to? Weak springs. If the rear
end bounces more than one bounce when you press down on it, weak shocks.
A--There is about 1/4-1/2" lean to left/driver's side (bachelor's lean?).
The rear end does not bounce/rebound at rest and in fact feels pretty stiff.

Maybe I start with springs--has anyone bought and installed new s[prings
recently from any supplier and what has been your experience?

Best--Michael Oritt




On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 9:26 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Does the rear end sag more than it used to? Weak springs. If the rear end
> bounces more than one bounce when you press down on it, weak shocks.
>
> It's a start.
>
> Bob
>
> On 9/20/2020 4:20 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> There's been some road construction in my neighborhood and it's clear that
> my car's suspension is reacting very harshly. The front end seems okay with
> no wheel hopping at speed or bad rebounding but the rear seems to bottom
> out on even small changes of pavement. It's been a while--at least 10
> years--since I fitted new DW springs and the Putske Bilstein conversion is
> perhaps a bit more dated.
>
> Is there a way of testing or evaluating suspension components or is this
> all simply subjective?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 21 07:18:30 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 06:18:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0207DB5E677747DAB15840BC8745603B@DavidNockHP>

Core plugs will make it a 3000 motor.

Cylinder head there is no casting over the temp sender will make it an early 3000 motor.  59 ? 61 pre tri carb.

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: HealeyRick via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 5:09 AM
To: Healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine

I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.  He'd like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even condition.  What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be taking a chance?  Any idea what model engine this is? 

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 07:37:12 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 09:37:12 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <020e01d69015$2e4e6190$8aeb24b0$@gmail.com>
References: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <020e01d69015$2e4e6190$8aeb24b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAH1MS-_pQxwe73=a+nqY+p=qqhkFWt=0GmrFJYguY79MNKD3vQ@mail.gmail.com>

Are all you folk with the XAS tires using inner tubes?   Or can those tires
be run tubeless?  I was wondering about how those tires would work out on
mini-lites?
Thanks
-skip- "Gladys - BJ8"

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 8:46 AM <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Simon:
>
>
>
> I bought the Michelin  XAS 180R15 from Longstone and installed them on my
> 67 BJ8 for the same reason that my 165 tires were old not worn. They fill
> up the wheel wells very nicely and hold the pavement. The ride is great.  I
> improved the ride removing 90%+ of the 50-65 mph shake by have them shaved
> so the tire is truly round and rubber meets the pavement flat.  First time
> in 30 years of owning a Healey I have a smooth ride and can go over 50 mph
> when my wife is with me.  Finding a tire shop who has a machine to shave
> the tires is difficult.
>
>
>
> The only flaw in them is my right rear tire rubs the dog leg flange when I
> make a hard turn to the left.  Searched the archives and found 3 other big
> Healey listeners over the past 20 year who reported the same problem on the
> same wheel.  So either it is a situation whereby it affects only a few cars
> which maybe have right rear fenders with a smaller opening from the factory
> or my restorer used a different flange to fix the rusted dog leg.  Who
> knows.  Yes, I checked the dimensions and the flange is slightly longer
> from the door jam.
>
>
>
> Nevertheless, I love the ride and recommend them
>
>
>
> Bob Begani  BJ8
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com
>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Sep 21 08:12:17 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 14:12:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1851391782.4709054.1600697537662@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes buyer is taking a chance.I sold an engine many years ago to one who still monitors and sometimes contributes to this list.? Similar situation.? I had some paperwork indicating a rebuild long before I aquired the engine but very very few miles before.? I conveyed all this to the buyer.? Turns out later there were some issues with the engine when he had it disassembled (as I remember) and inspected.? I refunded a portion of his purchase price.


-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 21, 2020 8:09 am
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine

I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.? He'd like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even condition.? What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be taking a chance?? Any idea what model engine this is?
Healthy Healeying,Rick Neville_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Sep 21 09:10:50 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 11:10:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
Message-ID: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two
"Made in England" labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am
unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some model
of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It's painted and apparently unused, but it has
surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended to go
INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.

 

Thanks!

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 09:19:22 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:19:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <1851391782.4709054.1600697537662@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1851391782.4709054.1600697537662@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88EbtZemP8vDWLcoCmnbo5S0pwVz2XAtjYHui_+-RzW-A@mail.gmail.com>

pull a crank bearing cap and inspect the bearings to get an idea of
condition.

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 7:15 AM Keith Pennell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Yes buyer is taking a chance.
> I sold an engine many years ago to one who still monitors and sometimes
> contributes to this list.  Similar situation.  I had some paperwork
> indicating a rebuild long before I aquired the engine but very very few
> miles before.  I conveyed all this to the buyer.  Turns out later there
> were some issues with the engine when he had it disassembled (as I
> remember) and inspected.  I refunded a portion of his purchase price.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HealeyRick via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Sep 21, 2020 8:09 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
>
> I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts
> from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.  He'd
> like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even
> condition.  What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be
> taking a chance?  Any idea what model engine this is?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 09:22:19 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 08:22:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <CAH1MS-_pQxwe73=a+nqY+p=qqhkFWt=0GmrFJYguY79MNKD3vQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <020e01d69015$2e4e6190$8aeb24b0$@gmail.com>
 <CAH1MS-_pQxwe73=a+nqY+p=qqhkFWt=0GmrFJYguY79MNKD3vQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNjbfGafvH14FfVBt4ZmE6qKjz5xw+0OqBoyOEzqzNOwA@mail.gmail.com>

Why take a chance running them without tubes?  Michelin says to use tubes.
I got the tubes from Johnstone along with the tires. It was not a big
expense.  And, I am using them on Minilites.

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 6:37 AM Skip Saunders via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Are all you folk with the XAS tires using inner tubes?   Or can those
> tires be run tubeless?  I was wondering about how those tires would work
> out on mini-lites?
> Thanks
> -skip- "Gladys - BJ8"
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 8:46 AM <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Simon:
>>
>>
>>
>> I bought the Michelin  XAS 180R15 from Longstone and installed them on my
>> 67 BJ8 for the same reason that my 165 tires were old not worn. They fill
>> up the wheel wells very nicely and hold the pavement. The ride is great.  I
>> improved the ride removing 90%+ of the 50-65 mph shake by have them shaved
>> so the tire is truly round and rubber meets the pavement flat.  First time
>> in 30 years of owning a Healey I have a smooth ride and can go over 50 mph
>> when my wife is with me.  Finding a tire shop who has a machine to shave
>> the tires is difficult.
>>
>>
>>
>> The only flaw in them is my right rear tire rubs the dog leg flange when
>> I make a hard turn to the left.  Searched the archives and found 3 other
>> big Healey listeners over the past 20 year who reported the same problem on
>> the same wheel.  So either it is a situation whereby it affects only a few
>> cars which maybe have right rear fenders with a smaller opening from the
>> factory or my restorer used a different flange to fix the rusted dog leg.
>> Who knows.  Yes, I checked the dimensions and the flange is slightly longer
>> from the door jam.
>>
>>
>>
>> Nevertheless, I love the ride and recommend them
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Begani  BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 09:59:37 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 11:59:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.

M

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>
>
>
> Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two
> ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am
> unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some
> model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but
> it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended
> to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Sep 21 10:18:29 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 16:18:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Suspension issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5RaZyYC6QGPDv-0NtjEz0XXmxfMhzbxZdYzSmRDja6FQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B587LS-s+no00HxF6xhOY7M+hYPN9DyT7iUL+o+3qzoLQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <c140fa82-ff80-702c-a658-6430e0ef5949@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5RaZyYC6QGPDv-0NtjEz0XXmxfMhzbxZdYzSmRDja6FQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <853362804.4799628.1600705109205@mail.yahoo.com>

 I bought a set from these people for my BN2 restoration.
BCC | British Class Car specialists in Braking and Suspension Upgrades

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
BCC | British Class Car specialists in Braking and Suspension Upgrades

BCC | British Classic Car Parts designed and manufactured in the UK, the highest quality bespoke brake upgrades,...
 |

 |

 |


Supposedly made the same dimensions, materials and manufacturing methods as the originals.? NFI, in fact the car has not even been down off the jack stands yet since they were installed.Mike MacLean




    On Monday, September 21, 2020, 5:55:06 AM PDT, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Bob--
Q--Does the rear end sag more than it used to? Weak springs.?If the rear end bounces more than one bounce when you press down on it, weak shocks.A--There is about 1/4-1/2" lean to left/driver's side (bachelor's lean?).? The rear end does not bounce/rebound at rest and in fact feels pretty stiff.

Maybe I start with springs--has anyone bought and installed new s[prings recently from any supplier and what has been your experience?
Best--Michael Oritt
?

On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 9:26 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  Does the rear end sag more than it used to? Weak springs. If the rear end bounces more than one bounce when you press down on it, weak shocks.
 
 It's a start.
 
 Bob
 
 On 9/20/2020 4:20 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
  
  There's been some road construction in my neighborhood and it's clear that my car's suspension is reacting very harshly. The front end seems okay with no wheel hopping at speed or bad rebounding but the rear seems to bottom out on even small changes of pavement. It's been a while--at least 10 years--since I fitted new DW springs and the Putske Bilstein conversion is perhaps a bit more dated.
 
 Is there a way of testing or evaluating suspension components or is this all simply subjective?
  
  Best--Michael Oritt  
 
 
 _______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 10:35:05 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 09:35:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNjbfGafvH14FfVBt4ZmE6qKjz5xw+0OqBoyOEzqzNOwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <002e01d68f9d$ef216930$cd643b90$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <020e01d69015$2e4e6190$8aeb24b0$@gmail.com>
 <CAH1MS-_pQxwe73=a+nqY+p=qqhkFWt=0GmrFJYguY79MNKD3vQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNjbfGafvH14FfVBt4ZmE6qKjz5xw+0OqBoyOEzqzNOwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c0c3ccaf-8615-a8d7-67fe-9f2656f3e73b@comcast.net>

I'll bite. Yes, tires spec'd for tubes should run tubes, but there's 
reasons tubeless tires became popular: Tubes can chafe against the 
tires, causing leaks--happened to me (yes, they were properly installed, 
with talc)--or even blowouts, and tubed tires run hotter than tubeless 
(I know Richard knows this, but some might not).

I think there's a difference between rims and beads that were designed 
for running with tubes, and those that were designed for tubeless, but 
I've never really understood/can't recall the science of it. Whether 
it's a safety hazard or not, I also don't know either; maybe a hexpert 
can chime in?

Bob


On 9/21/2020 8:22 AM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> Why take a chance running them without tubes? Michelin says to use 
> tubes. I got the tubes from Johnstone along with the tires. It was not 
> a big expense.? And, I am using them on Minilites.
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 6:37 AM Skip Saunders via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Are all you folk with the XAS tires using inner tubes?? ?Or can
>     those tires be run tubeless?? I was wondering about how those
>     tires would work out on mini-lites?
>     Thanks
>     -skip- "Gladys - BJ8"
>
>     On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 8:46 AM <rfbegani at gmail.com
>     <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>         Simon:
>
>         I bought the Michelin ?XAS 180R15 from Longstone and installed
>         them on my 67 BJ8 for the same reason that my 165 tires were
>         old not worn. They fill up the wheel wells very nicely and
>         hold the pavement. The ride is great.? I improved the ride
>         removing 90%+ of the 50-65 mph shake by have them shaved so
>         the tire is truly round and rubber meets the pavement flat.?
>         First time in 30 years of owning a Healey I have a smooth ride
>         and can go over 50 mph when my wife is with me.? Finding a
>         tire shop who has a machine to shave the tires is difficult.
>
>         The only flaw in them is my right rear tire rubs the dog leg
>         flange when I make a hard turn to the left.? Searched the
>         archives and found 3 other big Healey listeners over the past
>         20 year who reported the same problem on the same wheel.? So
>         either it is a situation whereby it affects only a few cars
>         which maybe have right rear fenders with a smaller opening
>         from the factory or my restorer used a different flange to fix
>         the rusted dog leg.? Who knows.? Yes, I checked the dimensions
>         and the flange is slightly longer from the door jam.
>
>         Nevertheless, I love the ride and recommend them
>
>         Bob Begani? BJ8
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 10:38:47 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 09:38:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>

Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty 
much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the 
pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most 
annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least 
some of the OEM pipes did as well.

On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
> From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>
>     Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos? It
>     has two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and
>     02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.?
>     The pipe may be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not. It?s
>     painted and apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the
>     paint has flaked off. The pipe is intended to go INSIDE the
>     muffler stub pipe.
>
>     Thanks!
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     HBJ8L/36666
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     Havelock, NC? USA
>
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 11:20:29 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 13:20:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch (I think) problem
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+S_8fmJKE=2OyRP7kDoqr+3nEA2hzqzo=xZXuFg_TpSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YV8Bwun=fgsAONw=mybaf4Q4nsFxnWdz3ou=qDSNTMQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <86546823.4201131.1600653743722@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7L+S_8fmJKE=2OyRP7kDoqr+3nEA2hzqzo=xZXuFg_TpSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7ufW9_cR62tHgon6POELiT+8rgjZUcucbqTo32NU7czw@mail.gmail.com>

I jacked up the car this morning and observed the clutch linkage operation
while actuating the pedal from underneath.  Beyond the initial 1/2" or so
of free play at the top of the pedal there was an additional bit of slop
caused by the pedal's rotating on the transverse shaft, indicating wear in
either the bolt that passes through the shaft or the hole--or both.  I did
not have time today to do more than tighten down the nut, which eliminated
the excess slop and appears to temporarily eliminate the problem, though a
permanent fix will come from getting a new bolt through the hole.  More
tomorrow....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 10:39 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Assuming that you have checked the fluid level what you describe is not
> good news.
> If the fluid level is down then air in the system is a distinct
> possibility however,  if there is no air in the system, then a problem with
> the clutch itself is the most likely cause.
> I presume that it grinds somewhat as you try to engage reverse which is
> not "syncronized" on the Toyota 5 speed as I recall.
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Sep. 20, 2020, 10:14 p.m. jim via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Check "free play" ie slack before clutch begins to dis-engage ...too much
>> and clutch plate/pressure plate is not pulling far enough away from the
>> flywheel for the plate to fully "float"
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Sunday, September 20, 2020, 4:13:09 PM PDT, Michael Oritt via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Lately I haven been noticing that it takes an increased amount of effort
>> to shift from gear to gear--up or down--no crunching, no grinding, just
>> resistance.  During a drive today I tested the disengagement of the clutch
>> and with the car in first unless I have the pedal hard down against the
>> floor there seems to be a slight but perceptible bit of engagement and the
>> car will creep very slightly ahead on level ground.   This suggests to me
>> that the clutch pedal is not being all it can be and while I have not yet
>> been under the car I am wondering if this is more likely to be a hydraulic
>> issue (primary or secondary cylinder) or one involving the linkage--wear on
>> clevis pin, egging out of holes, etc.
>>
>> What's the best way of diagnosing an issue such as this?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> 100 with Smitty's transmission and hydraulic clutch
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Sep 21 12:02:59 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 18:02:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
Message-ID: <ec17caf9dc1073cf86e0e363ca6898761d850e91@webmail>

Steve- these are made by Walker in the UK. Same label as the rear
resonator ones I just put on my BJ8. They are a good aftermarket item,
but not exact match to the factory original. You could find a listing
online with those numbers as to application. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Max Byers via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Monday September 21 2020 8:17:21AM
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe

	Hello, Healeyphiles ? 

	Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos? It has
two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and
02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to those numbers. The
pipe may be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not. It?s painted
and apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the paint has
flaked off. The pipe is intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe. 

	Thanks! 

	Steve Byers 

	HBJ8L/36666 

	BJ8 Registry 

	AHCA Delegate at Large 

	Havelock, NC USA 

	
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 12:30:35 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 11:30:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <854457b9-25a5-954a-efe1-188c85ce2cd2@comcast.net>

Yeah, from that angle it looks to be more 'straight down.' Does your 
clutch pedal hit it at full extension?

Steve, if this indeed an original/better-aftermarket pipe I'd like to 
buy it from you.

Bob


On 9/21/2020 11:14 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Bob,
>
> This looks to me to be a very correct, and possibly an NOS downpipe 
> for a BN1/2.
>
> Please see the attached photos of my NOS downpipe installed on my 
> Concours BN1 and compare.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run
>     pretty much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever
>     can hit the pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2
>     does; most annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and
>     I'm told at least some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>
>     On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>     Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>>     From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>>
>>     M
>>
>>     On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>
>>         Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos??
>>         It has two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers
>>         SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to
>>         those numbers.? The pipe may be for some model of Healey (not
>>         BJ8) or not.? It?s painted and apparently unused, but it has
>>         surface rust where the paint has flaked off. The pipe is
>>         intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>>
>>         Thanks!
>>
>>         Steve Byers
>>
>>         HBJ8L/36666
>>
>>         BJ8 Registry
>>
>>         AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>>         Havelock, NC? USA
>>
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 13:50:21 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 12:50:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>

Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does everyone
think?


> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty
>> much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the
>> pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most
>> annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least
>> some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>>
>> On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>
>> Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>> From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two
>>> ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am
>>> unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some
>>> model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but
>>> it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended
>>> to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Steve Byers
>>>
>>> HBJ8L/36666
>>>
>>> BJ8 Registry
>>>
>>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>
>>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>>
>>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 13:53:54 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 12:53:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <40119345-7fbf-890a-cd18-e540c9d2c307@comcast.net>

Are those both BN1/2 pipes? The one on the left looks to have a sharper 
bend below the flange.


On 9/21/2020 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does 
> everyone think?
>
>
>     On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>         Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should
>         run pretty much straight down from the manifold, else the
>         clutch lever can hit the pipe when pressed to the floorboard
>         (the one on my BN2 does; most annoying). Most/all aftermarket
>         pipes cause this, and I'm told at least some of the OEM pipes
>         did as well.
>
>         On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>         Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>>         From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>>
>>         M
>>
>>         On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys
>>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>             Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>
>>             Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached
>>             photos?? It has two ?Made in England? labels on it and
>>             the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable to find a
>>             reference to those numbers.? The pipe may be for some
>>             model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.? It?s painted and
>>             apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the
>>             paint has flaked off.?? The pipe is intended to go INSIDE
>>             the muffler stub pipe.
>>
>>             Thanks!
>>
>>             Steve Byers
>>
>>             HBJ8L/36666
>>
>>             BJ8 Registry
>>
>>             AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>>             Havelock, NC? USA
>>

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 14:47:57 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 13:47:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <40119345-7fbf-890a-cd18-e540c9d2c307@comcast.net>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
 <40119345-7fbf-890a-cd18-e540c9d2c307@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTvOs=JejY_LGajtiJZFiGmJH48SriBLWWmZ-hx841_QQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Bob,

That's what I suspected.  Mine is original NOS.

Curt

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 13:05 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Are those both BN1/2 pipes? The one on the left looks to have a sharper
> bend below the flange.
>
>
> On 9/21/2020 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>
> Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does everyone
> think?
>
>
>> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty
>>> much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the
>>> pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most
>>> annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least
>>> some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>>>
>>> On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>>
>>> Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>>> From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has
>>>> two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but
>>>> I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some
>>>> model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but
>>>> it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended
>>>> to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> Steve Byers
>>>>
>>>> HBJ8L/36666
>>>>
>>>> BJ8 Registry
>>>>
>>>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>>
>>>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>>>
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Sep 21 14:50:07 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 16:50:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.10.1600721417.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

100 Down pipes have their flanges drilled at 2-7/8 inch center to center
Six cylinder cars have theirs drilled at 2-7/16 inch center to center


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Curtis Arndt via Healeys
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 3:58 PM
To: Bob Spidell; Michael Salter; BJ8Healeys
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe

Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does everyone think?


On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least some of the OEM pipes did as well.
On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.

M

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Hello, Healeyphiles ?
?
Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?? It has two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.? The pipe may be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.? It?s painted and apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.?? The pipe is intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
?
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC? USA

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 14:51:27 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 13:51:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTvOs=JejY_LGajtiJZFiGmJH48SriBLWWmZ-hx841_QQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
 <40119345-7fbf-890a-cd18-e540c9d2c307@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeTvOs=JejY_LGajtiJZFiGmJH48SriBLWWmZ-hx841_QQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3a3ad87b-1ef5-0fa7-0237-fed3c3a936e8@comcast.net>

Does your clutch pedal hit the pipe at full extension?

On 9/21/2020 1:47 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> Thanks Bob,
>
> That's what I suspected.? Mine is original NOS.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 13:05 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Are those both BN1/2 pipes? The one on the left looks to have a
>     sharper bend below the flange.
>
>
>     On 9/21/2020 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>>     Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does
>>     everyone think?
>>
>>
>>         On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell
>>         <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>             Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe
>>             should run pretty much straight down from the manifold,
>>             else the clutch lever can hit the pipe when pressed to
>>             the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most annoying).
>>             Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at
>>             least some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>>
>>             On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>>             Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>>>             From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5"
>>>             PCD.
>>>
>>>             M
>>>
>>>             On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys
>>>             <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>>             wrote:
>>>
>>>                 Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>>
>>>                 Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached
>>>                 photos?? It has two ?Made in England? labels on it
>>>                 and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable
>>>                 to find a reference to those numbers.? The pipe may
>>>                 be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.? It?s
>>>                 painted and apparently unused, but it has surface
>>>                 rust where the paint has flaked off.?? The pipe is
>>>                 intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>>>
>>>                 Thanks!
>>>
>>>                 Steve Byers
>>>
>>>                 HBJ8L/36666
>>>
>>>                 BJ8 Registry
>>>
>>>                 AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>
>>>                 Havelock, NC USA
>>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 15:53:20 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 14:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <3a3ad87b-1ef5-0fa7-0237-fed3c3a936e8@comcast.net>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQR1B79iyLyZxoK97_B+KRM7Z7bQAHK6_ObQBs7LT7eFg@mail.gmail.com>
 <40119345-7fbf-890a-cd18-e540c9d2c307@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeTvOs=JejY_LGajtiJZFiGmJH48SriBLWWmZ-hx841_QQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <3a3ad87b-1ef5-0fa7-0237-fed3c3a936e8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSc4BUK=t1qTq+XEv1K+MDOONcUS7MuZqpFw48bQJHydQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Regarding your question...  *<"Does your clutch pedal hit the pipe at full
extension?'>*

Absolutely not, the ones like mine (original and NOS) have a larger
sweeping curve and don't foul the clutch pedal.  It's the aftermarket ones
with the tighter bend that are a pain in the butt, and hit the clutch when
depressed.

Curt

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 1:52 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Does your clutch pedal hit the pipe at full extension?
>
> On 9/21/2020 1:47 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>
> Thanks Bob,
>
> That's what I suspected.  Mine is original NOS.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 13:05 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Are those both BN1/2 pipes? The one on the left looks to have a sharper
>> bend below the flange.
>>
>>
>> On 9/21/2020 12:50 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
>>
>> Here is a side by side comparison of the two downpipes, what does
>> everyone think?
>>
>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty
>>>> much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the
>>>> pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most
>>>> annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least
>>>> some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>>>>
>>>> On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>>>> From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>>>>
>>>> M
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <
>>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has
>>>>> two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but
>>>>> I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some
>>>>> model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but
>>>>> it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended
>>>>> to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> Steve Byers
>>>>>
>>>>> HBJ8L/36666
>>>>>
>>>>> BJ8 Registry
>>>>>
>>>>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>>>
>>>>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>>>>
>>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Mon Sep 21 17:05:02 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 11:05:02 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000201d6906b$a4ee9d50$eecbd7f0$@xtra.co.nz>

Steve and Michael,

 

I?ve just checked a downpipe sitting on my shelf and compared it to one on my spare 100 engine.

The photos appear to be for a Hundred.

Downpipe OD 2?

Stud hole separation 2 ??

Stud hole 5/16?

 

Cheers

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, 22 September 2020 4:00 a.m.
To: Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe

 

Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.

>From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.

 

M

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Hello, Healeyphiles ?

 

Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.

 

Thanks!

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Sep 21 17:26:59 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 19:26:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Inherited Engine
In-Reply-To: <0207DB5E677747DAB15840BC8745603B@DavidNockHP>
References: <CAGfzsZfTSbWtfvb_74PnU4j6_6p6mU6wVREuRecC13MjnLk6YQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <0207DB5E677747DAB15840BC8745603B@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdCbPMXdR727xfE7rxiubZ1xzBtcPQ+6UcypcrD-fAYZg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, David et al.

Sounds like the best course of action would be to use a bore scope with a
camera and take some pictures of the cylinders and pull a couple of bearing
caps.  The builder appears to have been meticulous, so I'm betting the
motor is ok, but it's still a leap of faith for the buyer.

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:18 AM David Nock BCS <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> Core plugs will make it a 3000 motor.
>
> Cylinder head there is no casting over the temp sender will make it an
> early 3000 motor.  59 ? 61 pre tri carb.
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>
> *From:* HealeyRick via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, September 21, 2020 5:09 AM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Inherited Engine
>
> I've been contacted by a fellow who has inherited a number of Healey parts
> from his dad, including what appears to be a newly rebuilt engine.  He'd
> like to sell, but doesn't know anything about its internal parts or even
> condition.  What would you guys do to market it since the buyer would be
> taking a chance?  Any idea what model engine this is?
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Sep 22 08:59:31 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 10:59:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801d690f0$faf10aa0$f0d31fe0$@rr.com>

They look pretty much the same to me, except my pipe does not have the relief slots in the muffler end.  That?s why I thought my pipe was supposed to go INTO the muffler stub pipe, rather than over it like my BJ8.     However, I did not know this when I sent my inquiry but I have another exhaust system that appears to have a very similar, if not exact, pipe attached to the muffler.  That pipe has no slots and DOES got over the muffler stub pipe.  Photos attached.  This has the hand-written P/N 021-025 and 021-026 attached to it, which is the Moss number for a mild steel front pipe and muffler for a BN1/BN2.  Does this add anything to the conversation?

 

Photo attached.

 

msb

 

From: Curtis Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 2:14 PM
To: Bob Spidell; Michael Salter; BJ8Healeys
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe

 

Bob, 

 

This looks to me to be a very correct, and possibly an NOS downpipe for a BN1/2.

 

Please see the attached photos of my NOS downpipe installed on my Concours BN1 and compare.

 

Cheers,

 

Curt

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least some of the OEM pipes did as well.

On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.

>From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.

 

M

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hello, Healeyphiles ?

 

Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.

 

Thanks!

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Thu Sep 17 09:54:35 2020
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 16:54:35 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Transmission HELP!!!!
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJthYeJ5Rdw7+d5_pmmzaEQq_FErCjMt3GF5FnHnhpCdw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>
 <1679792314.1467906.1600302639996.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAB3i7LJthYeJ5Rdw7+d5_pmmzaEQq_FErCjMt3GF5FnHnhpCdw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLUvFA-EGL05Tq1Ry=Y376OZoAfUEJq1yf+CUiUM-MoEKg@mail.gmail.com>

Steve

Have you considered some sort of spacer plate and longer bolts?

On Thu, 17 Sep 2020 at 16:48, Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Yes I  encountered exactly that problem when trying, at very short notice,
> to rebuild 6a 100S gearbox after the owner had trashed his as a consequence
> of his TERRIBLE driving skills. He did the same thing again before selling
> the  "S".
> I didn't have a BN2 gearbox input shaft (the 100S gearbox internals are
> the same as BN2) but I had a couple of 100/6 type.
> Discovered that it was only the pilot bush spigot shaft that was longer
> and simply cut about 1/2" (as I recall) off with a cut off wheel and all
> was good to go.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 8:30 p.m. Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I'm restoring a BN2? for a club member along with the BN1 that I'm doing
>> for myself. His project is a story in itself, but the latest challenge is
>> getting the transmission bolted to the engine. Normally it's an easy job,
>> but in his case, he's buying parts for different sources in order to make a
>> complete car.
>>
>> He had the front of his chassis cut off in preparation of installing a
>> Corvette V8. All those parts were scrapped before he was convinced to take
>> it back to original. That's when I stepped in.
>>
>> He bought a four cylinder engine from Healey Surgeons and a side shift
>> transmission from a guy in California, the same guy that sold him the BN2
>> chassis. When I tried to install the transmission, the bell housing had a
>> different bolt pattern since it was for a six cylinder engine. He then got
>> the correct bell housing, but now the trans still won't bolt up because the
>> first motion shaft is too long (see attached sketch). The distance between
>> the trans and the engine is approximately 8 3/4" and the width of the bell
>> housing is 8 5/16", a difference of 7/16". At this point, I'm tempted to
>> cut off a half inch off of the shaft.
>>
>> Has anyone experience with this and can you recommend a better solution?
>> HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *To: *"Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Sent: *Wednesday, September 16, 2020 5:21:30 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question
>>
>> Again, the list makes my day!! Thank you all for the responses and the
>> knowledge. I will continue with my quest to get this car back on the road!
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1
>>
>> On September 16, 2020 at 2:44 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water
>> pump seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be
>> rebuilt.
>> The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been
>> over greased.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>>    I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon
>>> cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with
>>> what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at
>>> the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to
>>> admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump.
>>>    Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like
>>> this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and
>>> need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension.
>>>    Thanks in advance guys,
>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>> BN1
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From schottc at knology.net  Thu Sep 17 15:56:48 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 17:56:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Transmission HELP!!!!
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLUvFA-EGL05Tq1Ry=Y376OZoAfUEJq1yf+CUiUM-MoEKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <32701ccd-3856-45b9-8e1e-47dadc3f05e8@me.com>
 <1679792314.1467906.1600302639996.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAB3i7LJthYeJ5Rdw7+d5_pmmzaEQq_FErCjMt3GF5FnHnhpCdw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLUvFA-EGL05Tq1Ry=Y376OZoAfUEJq1yf+CUiUM-MoEKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <584422503.1919954.1600379808816.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

John, 

It would probably take a couple of days to make a spacer plate, then you'd have to move the rear transmission mounts on the chassis rearward by the same amount as well as shortening the driveshaft. It took me less than two minutes to cut a half an inch off of the shaft. And then it bolted right up to the engine. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "john harper" <ah100tech at gmail.com> 
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Cc: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Russ & Lynn Deane" <russ at russdeane.com>, "Bill & Maureen Nieland" <billnieland1 at gmail.com>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2020 10:54:35 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Transmission HELP!!!! 

Steve 

Have you considered some sort of spacer plate and longer bolts? 

On Thu, 17 Sep 2020 at 16:48, Michael Salter via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: 



Yes I encountered exactly that problem when trying, at very short notice, to rebuild 6a 100S gearbox after the owner had trashed his as a consequence of his TERRIBLE driving skills. He did the same thing again before selling the "S". 
I didn't have a BN2 gearbox input shaft (the 100S gearbox internals are the same as BN2) but I had a couple of 100/6 type. 
Discovered that it was only the pilot bush spigot shaft that was longer and simply cut about 1/2" (as I recall) off with a cut off wheel and all was good to go. 

M 

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 8:30 p.m. Charles Schott, < schottc at knology.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

I'm restoring a BN2? for a club member along with the BN1 that I'm doing for myself. His project is a story in itself, but the latest challenge is getting the transmission bolted to the engine. Normally it's an easy job, but in his case, he's buying parts for different sources in order to make a complete car. 

He had the front of his chassis cut off in preparation of installing a Corvette V8. All those parts were scrapped before he was convinced to take it back to original. That's when I stepped in. 

He bought a four cylinder engine from Healey Surgeons and a side shift transmission from a guy in California, the same guy that sold him the BN2 chassis. When I tried to install the transmission, the bell housing had a different bolt pattern since it was for a six cylinder engine. He then got the correct bell housing, but now the trans still won't bolt up because the first motion shaft is too long (see attached sketch). The distance between the trans and the engine is approximately 8 3/4" and the width of the bell housing is 8 5/16", a difference of 7/16". At this point, I'm tempted to cut off a half inch off of the shaft. 

Has anyone experience with this and can you recommend a better solution? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Regards, 

Charlie 


From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > 
To: "Michael Salter" < michaelsalter at gmail.com > 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 5:21:30 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pump Question 

Again, the list makes my day!! Thank you all for the responses and the knowledge. I will continue with my quest to get this car back on the road! 
Steven Kingsbury 
BN1 

On September 16, 2020 at 2:44 PM, Michael Salter < michaelsalter at gmail.com > wrote: 


<blockquote>

Hi Steven, that hole is as it should be. It is the drain for the water pump seal. If coolant starts coming out of there the pump needs to be rebuilt. 
The grease will be leakage from the bearings which have most likely been over greased. 

M 

On Wed., Sep. 16, 2020, 5:04 p.m. Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

I am in the process of putting my engine back together and upon cleaning the water pump, I found the bottom of the pump to be thick with what appeared to be grease. As I cleaned the grease away I found a hole at the bottom of the housing. Is this normal? I have a 1955 BN1 and I have to admit, I have never looked at the bottom of a 100 water pump. 
Was there once a grease fitting there? Are all of them open like this? I'm cleaning it to repaint and reinstall, but I'm a bit concerned and need the wisdom of the list to relieve my tension. 
Thanks in advance guys, 
Steven Kingsbury 
BN1 


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</blockquote>


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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 



</blockquote>

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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
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</blockquote>


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Sep 23 10:24:26 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 12:24:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
In-Reply-To: <003801d690f0$faf10aa0$f0d31fe0$@rr.com>
References: <007b01d69029$64e3fc10$2eabf430$@rr.com>
 <CAB3i7LLwYFkiR_BYEwRuO8GZi8cZO3e_EKjRF9S6Uyjkx7+1RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <65bfe819-41b9-eb6c-4fe7-a3b1e228003d@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRsHJG-e044aJpNWkGoFPNANfqdVAu-T9KkV2O=p2L_8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <003801d690f0$faf10aa0$f0d31fe0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJCDM-XMQOwdNW5MeokBK9HcLkYNy6MgB6+YyCHs+jCXQ@mail.gmail.com>

As I said earlier that is definitely an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe. The
originals DID NOT have the "waisting" down at the start of the bendas they
were "mandrel formed".
I have had some mandrel formed pipes made and they are quite different from
the Walker type.
[image: image.png]
These are 2 of mine ... Sorry I don't have an aftermarket one for
comparison.

M


On Tue, Sep 22, 2020 at 10:59 AM Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> They look pretty much the same to me, except my pipe does not have the
> relief slots in the muffler end.  That?s why I thought my pipe was supposed
> to go INTO the muffler stub pipe, rather than over it like my BJ8.
> However, I did not know this when I sent my inquiry but I have another
> exhaust system that appears to have a very similar, if not exact, pipe
> attached to the muffler.  That pipe has no slots and DOES got over the
> muffler stub pipe.  Photos attached.  This has the hand-written P/N 021-025
> and 021-026 attached to it, which is the Moss number for a mild steel front
> pipe and muffler for a BN1/BN2.  Does this add anything to the conversation?
>
>
>
> Photo attached.
>
>
>
> msb
>
>
>
> *From:* Curtis Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 21, 2020 2:14 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell; Michael Salter; BJ8Healeys
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Unidentified exhaust pipe
>
>
>
> Bob,
>
>
>
> This looks to me to be a very correct, and possibly an NOS downpipe for a
> BN1/2.
>
>
>
> Please see the attached photos of my NOS downpipe installed on my Concours
> BN1 and compare.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Curt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:43 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Looks more like a BJX pipe to me. The 100s' downpipe should run pretty
> much straight down from the manifold, else the clutch lever can hit the
> pipe when pressed to the floorboard (the one on my BN2 does; most
> annoying). Most/all aftermarket pipes cause this, and I'm told at least
> some of the OEM pipes did as well.
>
> On 9/21/2020 8:59 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Looks like an aftermarket BN1/2 front pipe.
>
> From memory the flange should have 7/16" holes on a 1.5" PCD.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:15 AM Max Byers via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hello, Healeyphiles ?
>
>
>
> Can anyone identify the exhaust pipe in the attached photos?  It has two
> ?Made in England? labels on it and the numbers SU-529 and 02.106.1 but I am
> unable to find a reference to those numbers.  The pipe may be for some
> model of Healey (not BJ8) or not.  It?s painted and apparently unused, but
> it has surface rust where the paint has flaked off.   The pipe is intended
> to go INSIDE the muffler stub pipe.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From waschu2 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 23 14:21:55 2020
From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 16:21:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey BJ-8 Ansa exhaust
Message-ID: <CAKjtSfjC7wNuswF90FOWX--kw4heCC66z=1wzt4SGTaf-iEkzw@mail.gmail.com>

I have my pristine  Ansa front exhaust section for sale.  When I put the
Punze tube shocks on my car the pipes behind the front silencers  did not
have the clearance needed to clear the new rear shock brackets.  I cut the
pipes to modify them to clear the shocks and decided it was easier to buy
the front system from AH Spares in Stainless. It fit well and was a great
fit into my BJ-8 Anasa rear exhaust. My clean cut to the system would be
easy to reweld or use the front system for a side exhaust?  Located in
Sandy Hook Ct.  I have no interest in shipping so picking up here would be
best. I also have a small selection of Healey parts here for sale also.
Differentials, axles, hubs, oil pans, valve cover etc. If you are local and
are interested, contact me.  my email is Waschu2 at gmail.com   Located in
Sandy Hook Ct. 06482
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 18:47:51 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 20:47:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Driveshaft Cork Washer
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1600908481.3211.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Anyone know where I can obtain the original cork washer that fits 
under the dust cap on the sliding end of the driveshaft on all
 big Healeys? Moss offers one but it appears to be different design than the original.
Size should be: 
ID ? 1-1/8 inch
OD -  1-5/8 inch
Thickness ? ? inch
Material ? Cork

Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Sep 25 20:52:59 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 02:52:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Grommet
References: <292609202.981593.1601088779865.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <292609202.981593.1601088779865@mail.yahoo.com>

No, not the animated series, although I do enjoy that.? My question is what grommet do you use for the overflow copper pipe that goes into the cold air box?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 26 11:12:41 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 10:12:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone found a small, modern, efficient replacement for a 3000 heater
box?
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sat Sep 26 11:40:08 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 13:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001701d6942c$13baa800$3b2ff800$@sympatico.ca>

A down-filled arctic parka.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of richard mayor
Sent: September 26, 2020 1:13 PM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?

 

Has anyone found a small, modern, efficient replacement for a 3000 heater box?  

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Sep 26 11:42:54 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 10:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C11BAF2F2C77439D8C35B4C8C6C57206@AllInOne>

Richard,
 
I don't have first hand experience with this heater available from Cape
International but I have heard good comments.
 
https://cape-international.com/parts/heater-conversion-kit-bn4-bj8/
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard
mayor
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2020 10:13 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?


Has anyone found a small, modern, efficient replacement for a 3000 heater
box?  

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Sep 26 14:26:33 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 16:26:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater box upgrade/replacement?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMZ1qKp4FyG_SdOuAETa5bnhbhLvDebuQQOBgLAn2DuxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C45A0A62-D173-4069-8229-C34C94E9D957@rogers.com>

I remember reading about how you can modify the valve so that you unlock the full potential of the heater (whatever that is!) . Apparently the valve doesn?t go through it?s full sweep of operation the way it comes from the suppliers.
That article is out there somewhere, but I?m not sure whereI read it.
Maybe someone else will know the source.

Stephen, BJ8

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2020, at 1:12 PM, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone found a small, modern, efficient replacement for a 3000 heater box?  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveutuu
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 


From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Sep 26 15:46:31 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 17:46:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 1965 BJ8 for sale
Message-ID: <01d401d6944e$7fafdcc0$7f0f9640$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

Posting for a non-list member.   Photos attached.
For sale due to health reasons:  HBJ8L/32038, built 31 May - 3 June 1965,
owned since 1989.  Dual light Phase 2, originally Healey Blue, now Yellow
with red leather interior.  Asking "market value".

For more information, contact:
Robert N. Blair
San Jose, California
e-mail:  rnb333 at live.com
Tel:  (+1) 408-221-5244

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Sep 26 16:19:45 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 18:19:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>

Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
Not sure what the recommendation is
to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
P 

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Sent from my iPhone

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 07:17:33 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 23:17:33 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>

Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off. 
Who needs a heater?
Love your work Perry. 
Chris

> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
> Not sure what the recommendation is
> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
> P 
> 
> <IMG_7237.JPG>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_7238.JPG>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_7239.JPG>
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> 

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Sep 27 09:04:16 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 11:04:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <194E0FA1-2B1E-4832-B4DE-07A3410F6A10@rogers.com>

OK, here is the article I read.
https://www.mgexp.com/article/heater-valve-improvement.30 <https://www.mgexp.com/article/heater-valve-improvement.30>

Seems to be more a problem with the replacement valves we get now.

Stephen, BJ8

> On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off. 
> Who needs a heater?
> Love your work Perry. 
> Chris
> 
>> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
>> Not sure what the recommendation is
>> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
>> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
>> P 
>> 
>> <IMG_7237.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7238.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7239.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
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>> 
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Sep 27 09:08:08 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 11:08:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>

Actually, I?ve just realized that the link I sent out is for the valve on the block?so, I?ll keep searching for the piece which deals with the heater mounted valve.

Stephen

> On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off. 
> Who needs a heater?
> Love your work Perry. 
> Chris
> 
>> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
>> Not sure what the recommendation is
>> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
>> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
>> P 
>> 
>> <IMG_7237.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7238.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7239.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 09:16:01 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 11:16:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004001d694e1$1cb9cf20$562d6d60$@gmail.com>

Here in Florida, I just removed it from the car and stored it in the attic of the garage where all the parts go when not used.  Others install AC in its place

Bob Begani
BJ8 in beautiful Southwest Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2020 9:18 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve

Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off. 
Who needs a heater?
Love your work Perry. 
Chris

> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
> Not sure what the recommendation is
> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
> P
> 
> <IMG_7237.JPG>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_7238.JPG>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_7239.JPG>
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Sep 27 10:10:28 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 12:10:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal
Message-ID: <004601d694e8$b7ed6400$27c82c00$@sympatico.ca>

Hi all,  I am replacing the soft-top on my BT7 and rebuilt the wooden header
piece that secures the top to the windscreen.  The rubber seal that goes
between the aluminum strip and the windscreen is causing me grief.  The seal
I removed I believe is original.  Although deteriorated in sections, it was
surprisingly good in places, so I feel I have a reasonably good example of
what was there.  Also the ends appear to be molded in a curve to match the
aluminum strip, as opposed to being cut as a replacement would be.

 

This (possibly) original seal was a solid piece of compressible foam rubber
about ?? wide and appears to have tapered in thickness, from ?? to 3/16?,
although this seems unlikely. I recognize that 60 years of compression makes
exact measurement impossible and uneven compression may have made it appear
tapered in section.

 

The replacement I got was hollow and narrower.  Compressed slightly, enough
to just squeeze the hollow centre closed, it was ?? thick.  However, when I
installed it, the top bow would not go onto the windscreen without a huge
amount of effort and force, and I was never convinced it was on properly.
The top bow always used to fit on the windscreen snugly and with ease in the
past (I have owned the car for 46 years).  I don?t understand this, as the
new seal when compressed would seem to be the same thickness as the
original, but ?the proof is in the pudding? ? it does not fit!

 

To experiment, I cut the replacement seal to half the thickness, so it is
now 1/8? thick, and the top bow mounted on the windscreen with ease.  So the
problem is the seal.  However, I think 1/8? is too thin and it will likely
leak.

 

The Concours Guide, Supplement 1, page 5, provides a photo of a 100 seal,
but it is silent on whether this seal was carried through to the BT7 or was
changed at some point.  Does anyone know?

 

Does anyone have any comment on the above, and more importantly a source for
a replacement seal that is closer to the original?

 

With thanks, Mirek

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Sep 27 10:17:55 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 09:17:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
 <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <edad0ab6-b37c-ac12-2851-388076ec2ea8@comcast.net>

I'm confused (yeah, that's a semi-normal state for me). If we're talking 
about the valve on the heater box--controlled with a push knob on the 
fascia--it seems like it has a larger opening than the brass valve on 
the block (the one that most of us forget to exercise and sometimes 
break the handle off trying to turn; Bob Yule has replacements). Anyway, 
I'm not a hydraulic engineer, but I gotta believe the flow is limited by 
the smallest opening in the circuit. It's been a while since I had my 
block/brass valve on the bench, but I remember a very small opening; 
about a quarter-inch diameter (it's a simple ball valve). So, opening up 
the box valve won't accomplish much, if anything, unless there was a way 
to open up the block valve. Given the block valves are pretty fragile, 
and not cheap, I'd be loathe to take a drill to it.

Bob

On 9/27/2020 8:08 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> Actually, I?ve just realized that the link I sent out is for the valve on the block?so, I?ll keep searching for the piece which deals with the heater mounted valve.
>
> Stephen
>
>> On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off.
>> Who needs a heater?
>> Love your work Perry.
>> Chris
>>
>>> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change.
>>> Not sure what the recommendation is
>>> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer.
>>> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH.
>>> P
>>>


From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Sep 27 10:46:45 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 12:46:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <edad0ab6-b37c-ac12-2851-388076ec2ea8@comcast.net>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
 <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>
 <edad0ab6-b37c-ac12-2851-388076ec2ea8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <005e01d694ed$c9084250$5b18c6f0$@sympatico.ca>

Just a thought, but I suggest that opening up various constrictions in the system to flow more water through the heater will not necessarily result in more heat.  The hot water from the block needs some resident time in the heater core to transfer heat out to the fins and into the box before it is blown into the car (well sort-of blown assuming other fans work like mine).  I have no idea how to calculate the optimum flow through the heater core to obtain maximum heat transfer, or if it was ever published.

Hope I am not totally off-base with this as I have no evidence, and apologies for my earlier quip about parkas - I live in Canada and winter is looming.

Cheers, Mirek

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: September 27, 2020 12:18 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve

I'm confused (yeah, that's a semi-normal state for me). If we're talking about the valve on the heater box--controlled with a push knob on the fascia--it seems like it has a larger opening than the brass valve on the block (the one that most of us forget to exercise and sometimes break the handle off trying to turn; Bob Yule has replacements). Anyway, I'm not a hydraulic engineer, but I gotta believe the flow is limited by the smallest opening in the circuit. It's been a while since I had my block/brass valve on the bench, but I remember a very small opening; about a quarter-inch diameter (it's a simple ball valve). So, opening up the box valve won't accomplish much, if anything, unless there was a way to open up the block valve. Given the block valves are pretty fragile, and not cheap, I'd be loathe to take a drill to it.

Bob

On 9/27/2020 8:08 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> Actually, I?ve just realized that the link I sent out is for the valve on the block?so, I?ll keep searching for the piece which deals with the heater mounted valve.
>
> Stephen
>
>> On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off.
>> Who needs a heater?
>> Love your work Perry.
>> Chris
>>
>>> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change.
>>> Not sure what the recommendation is
>>> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer.
>>> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH.
>>> P
>>>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Sep 27 11:02:03 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 18:02:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>
References: <80012D8B-ED61-486B-B7C9-44235F92787F@aol.com>
 <CEA9FF4F-4D59-486A-A226-7E882D06A41E@gmail.com>
 <838567CA-8E35-41B3-B81F-3B575FA3267B@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <000001d694ef$ee9e1380$cbda3a80$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Now, I'm confused too.
See attached. Seems that the picture in the article is the one from the top of the heater.
However.....the valve on the block is a pretty pitiful thing also. Really narrow. Seems that one might have to look at all of them......
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: 27 September 2020 16:08
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve

Actually, I?ve just realized that the link I sent out is for the valve on the block?so, I?ll keep searching for the piece which deals with the heater mounted valve.

Stephen

> On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Chris Dimmock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Here in Sydney, Australia, we just turn them off. 
> Who needs a heater?
> Love your work Perry. 
> Chris
> 
>> On 27 Sep 2020, at 8:20 am, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Inlet and outlet on the valve is 3/8 inch diameter. Stopper activated by the cable is 1/2 inch diameter. Pocket that it sits in is 5/8 diameter and has three standoffs to center the stopper in the hole. The stopper can move only 1/4 in and out so it stays in the pocket. The available space for water flow is 0.39 inches compared to 0.44 inches for the 3/8 inch internal diameter tubes on the valve. That is about a 25% reduction in flow assuming no pressure change. 
>> Not sure what the recommendation is
>> to improve this situation using the existing parts but chime in if you have  the answer. 
>> PS The patient may have survived the operation.....to live on in another AH. 
>> P
>> 
>> <IMG_7237.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7238.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> <IMG_7239.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
>> donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 11:41:44 2020
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 13:41:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
Message-ID: <9DECFE3D-D222-43B2-B2AF-B60C2F8B5038@gmail.com>

How do you fasten the tire cover rivets on a 100.  They also hold the battery panels straps

Joe

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Sep 27 12:04:00 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 14:04:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heater valve
References: <7F8BC204-7269-4FC3-B7FD-7129D3A761D2.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7F8BC204-7269-4FC3-B7FD-7129D3A761D2@aol.com>

The heater taps on the 100 through 3000 also had a water passage of 3/8 inch diameter.  

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Sent from my iPhone

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 27 12:12:38 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 18:12:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
In-Reply-To: <9DECFE3D-D222-43B2-B2AF-B60C2F8B5038@gmail.com>
References: <9DECFE3D-D222-43B2-B2AF-B60C2F8B5038@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278D0B0BDC9A7357BAC095BD1340@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Joe,
You need a tool to squeeze them together, such as the one in the photo.

Jean
[cid:image005.jpg at 01D694CF.DF468450]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Joseph Costa via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: September 27, 2020 12:46 PM
To: Austin Healey Forum Healey posting<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets

[cid:image001.jpg at 01D694CF.D7B087E0][cid:image002.jpg at 01D694CF.D7B087E0]How do you fasten the tire cover rivets on a 100.  They also hold the battery panels straps

Joe


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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 12:23:22 2020
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 14:23:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR22MB2278D0B0BDC9A7357BAC095BD1340@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <9DECFE3D-D222-43B2-B2AF-B60C2F8B5038@gmail.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D0B0BDC9A7357BAC095BD1340@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CADigPhR+R=gGUS2psNJhpV1ingUUGpv2fu83jMFxHhySnn-KLw@mail.gmail.com>

Ken

My interior kit was supplied by Peter Slvins and they keep with the kit.
His workmanship is truly amazing.

Joe

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 2:12 PM Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> You need a tool to squeeze them together, such as the one in the photo.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *September 27, 2020 12:46 PM
> *To: *Austin Healey Forum Healey posting <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] tire cover rivets
>
>
>
> How do you fasten the tire cover rivets on a 100.  They also hold the
> battery panels straps
>
>
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 27 13:15:02 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 12:15:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhR+R=gGUS2psNJhpV1ingUUGpv2fu83jMFxHhySnn-KLw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhR+R=gGUS2psNJhpV1ingUUGpv2fu83jMFxHhySnn-KLw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1744F67-40B7-472D-B1B2-B0DD05CFA348@sbcglobal.net>

We have them available. 
Www.britishcarspecialists.com

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2020, at 11:24 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Ken
> 
> My interior kit was supplied by Peter Slvins and they keep with the kit.  His workmanship is truly amazing.
> 
> Joe
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 2:12 PM Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Joe,
>> 
>> You need a tool to squeeze them together, such as the one in the photo.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Jean
>> 
>> <4E02430DC6B44EA9A4B0C1FC54E8F426.jpg>
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Joseph Costa via Healeys
>> Sent: September 27, 2020 12:46 PM
>> To: Austin Healey Forum Healey posting
>> Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> <D60303DBAC2B485EABBC043596BA586C.jpg>
>> <B420D4F90FD94AED8D3A631BCC307A00.jpg>
>> How do you fasten the tire cover rivets on a 100.  They also hold the battery panels straps
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 13:34:37 2020
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 15:34:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] tire cover rivets
In-Reply-To: <E1744F67-40B7-472D-B1B2-B0DD05CFA348@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CADigPhR+R=gGUS2psNJhpV1ingUUGpv2fu83jMFxHhySnn-KLw@mail.gmail.com>
 <E1744F67-40B7-472D-B1B2-B0DD05CFA348@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CADigPhTxusMyMg5kRB-d0TX=UTTH4fbn7kNQRcbu=17R+xgQzA@mail.gmail.com>

Saw these on Amazon.  Don't know if they work

https://www.amazon.com/hand-rivet-squeezer/s?k=hand+rivet+squeezer&page=2&qid=1601233458&ref=sr_pg_2

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 3:15 PM David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> We have them available.
> Www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2020, at 11:24 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> Ken
>
> My interior kit was supplied by Peter Slvins and they keep with the kit.
> His workmanship is truly amazing.
>
> Joe
>
> On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 2:12 PM Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> You need a tool to squeeze them together, such as the one in the photo.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jean
>>
>> <4E02430DC6B44EA9A4B0C1FC54E8F426.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *Joseph Costa via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *September 27, 2020 12:46 PM
>> *To: *Austin Healey Forum Healey posting <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] tire cover rivets
>>
>>
>>
>> <D60303DBAC2B485EABBC043596BA586C.jpg>
>> <B420D4F90FD94AED8D3A631BCC307A00.jpg>
>> How do you fasten the tire cover rivets on a 100.  They also hold the
>> battery panels straps
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 27 14:16:50 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 13:16:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal
In-Reply-To: <004601d694e8$b7ed6400$27c82c00$@sympatico.ca>
References: <004601d694e8$b7ed6400$27c82c00$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <000001d6950b$22ba6c70$682f4550$@sbcglobal.net>

The top bow of a BT7 is a complex compound curve. My dad made one for me
back in the early 2000?s. He was a very good woodworker but he had to make
it twice to get it right. Don?t rule out the bow shape in causing the fit
problem. 

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
m.g.sharp--- via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2020 9:10 AM
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal

 

Hi all,  I am replacing the soft-top on my BT7 and rebuilt the wooden header
piece that secures the top to the windscreen.  The rubber seal that goes
between the aluminum strip and the windscreen is causing me grief.  The seal
I removed I believe is original.  Although deteriorated in sections, it was
surprisingly good in places, so I feel I have a reasonably good example of
what was there.  Also the ends appear to be molded in a curve to match the
aluminum strip, as opposed to being cut as a replacement would be.

 

This (possibly) original seal was a solid piece of compressible foam rubber
about ?? wide and appears to have tapered in thickness, from ?? to 3/16?,
although this seems unlikely. I recognize that 60 years of compression makes
exact measurement impossible and uneven compression may have made it appear
tapered in section.

 

The replacement I got was hollow and narrower.  Compressed slightly, enough
to just squeeze the hollow centre closed, it was ?? thick.  However, when I
installed it, the top bow would not go onto the windscreen without a huge
amount of effort and force, and I was never convinced it was on properly.
The top bow always used to fit on the windscreen snugly and with ease in the
past (I have owned the car for 46 years).  I don?t understand this, as the
new seal when compressed would seem to be the same thickness as the
original, but ?the proof is in the pudding? ? it does not fit!

 

To experiment, I cut the replacement seal to half the thickness, so it is
now 1/8? thick, and the top bow mounted on the windscreen with ease.  So the
problem is the seal.  However, I think 1/8? is too thin and it will likely
leak.

 

The Concours Guide, Supplement 1, page 5, provides a photo of a 100 seal,
but it is silent on whether this seal was carried through to the BT7 or was
changed at some point.  Does anyone know?

 

Does anyone have any comment on the above, and more importantly a source for
a replacement seal that is closer to the original?

 

With thanks, Mirek

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Sep 27 14:57:49 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 16:57:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal
In-Reply-To: <000001d6950b$22ba6c70$682f4550$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <004601d694e8$b7ed6400$27c82c00$@sympatico.ca>
 <000001d6950b$22ba6c70$682f4550$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <009401d69510$dc1753e0$9445fba0$@sympatico.ca>

Hi John, I did not change the top bow wood or metal, just replaced the
plywood backing on it, so it the same top bow that fit perfectly for 46
years.  Also, when I halved the thickness of the replacement seal, it fit
perfectly again, so it is definitely a seal problem.

 

Still hoping someone suggests a good source for a replacement seal closer to
the original.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> 
Sent: September 27, 2020 4:17 PM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal

 

The top bow of a BT7 is a complex compound curve. My dad made one for me
back in the early 2000?s. He was a very good woodworker but he had to make
it twice to get it right. Don?t rule out the bow shape in causing the fit
problem. 

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
m.g.sharp--- via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2020 9:10 AM
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft-top header to windscreen seal

 

Hi all,  I am replacing the soft-top on my BT7 and rebuilt the wooden header
piece that secures the top to the windscreen.  The rubber seal that goes
between the aluminum strip and the windscreen is causing me grief.  The seal
I removed I believe is original.  Although deteriorated in sections, it was
surprisingly good in places, so I feel I have a reasonably good example of
what was there.  Also the ends appear to be molded in a curve to match the
aluminum strip, as opposed to being cut as a replacement would be.

 

This (possibly) original seal was a solid piece of compressible foam rubber
about ?? wide and appears to have tapered in thickness, from ?? to 3/16?,
although this seems unlikely. I recognize that 60 years of compression makes
exact measurement impossible and uneven compression may have made it appear
tapered in section.

 

The replacement I got was hollow and narrower.  Compressed slightly, enough
to just squeeze the hollow centre closed, it was ?? thick.  However, when I
installed it, the top bow would not go onto the windscreen without a huge
amount of effort and force, and I was never convinced it was on properly.
The top bow always used to fit on the windscreen snugly and with ease in the
past (I have owned the car for 46 years).  I don?t understand this, as the
new seal when compressed would seem to be the same thickness as the
original, but ?the proof is in the pudding? ? it does not fit!

 

To experiment, I cut the replacement seal to half the thickness, so it is
now 1/8? thick, and the top bow mounted on the windscreen with ease.  So the
problem is the seal.  However, I think 1/8? is too thin and it will likely
leak.

 

The Concours Guide, Supplement 1, page 5, provides a photo of a 100 seal,
but it is silent on whether this seal was carried through to the BT7 or was
changed at some point.  Does anyone know?

 

Does anyone have any comment on the above, and more importantly a source for
a replacement seal that is closer to the original?

 

With thanks, Mirek

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Sep 29 07:48:03 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 13:48:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fresh Air Cable
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone know where to get the fresh air intake valve pull cable for a BN1/2?? None of the usual suspects have it.Mike MacLean
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Sep 29 12:10:07 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 18:10:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Fresh Air Cable
In-Reply-To: <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <bc05049d-1dd9-e210-0f0d-74a0b0809744@porterscustom.com>
 <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>

 

   ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>To: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020, 11:09:11 AM PDTSubject: Re: [Healeys] Fresh Air Cable
  Just found the cable at Ahead4Healeys with the help of list member Simon Lachlan.? Ordered it along with the mounting bracket.? Thanks for all the quick replies.

    On Tuesday, September 29, 2020, 6:56:08 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
Some generic choke cables at your local auto store hardware stores are adaptable.
 
 On 9/29/2020 7:48 AM, Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote:
  
 
 Anyone know where to get the fresh air intake valve pull cable for a BN1/2?? None of the usual suspects have it. Mike MacLean
   
  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

 -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/     
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From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Tue Sep 29 12:37:54 2020
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 14:37:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query
In-Reply-To: <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <bc05049d-1dd9-e210-0f0d-74a0b0809744@porterscustom.com>
 <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>


About two years ago I replaced the original voltage regulator on my BT7.

The replacement, made in India, worked okay, but recently I have had to 
burnish the contacts on the main coil in order to get it to provide a 
charge.

I have been thinking about refurbishing the rugged original Lucas 
regulator. Its resistor is fine and the coils do not look overheated or 
discolored.

Are there any suggestions about finding a rugged voltage regulator these 
days?

== Alex in Maine
 ? 1960 BT7, The Blue Mainie

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 14:10:09 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 16:10:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query
In-Reply-To: <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <bc05049d-1dd9-e210-0f0d-74a0b0809744@porterscustom.com>
 <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+yXjqTsJ_ZTo+Vi6u0BtOixb9yFpg8dU=5ouh0t0mHeA@mail.gmail.com>

I have had a couple of RB310 regulators converted to electronic by these
guyshttp://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/
Very happy with the results.

M

On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 2:38 PM Alex via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

>
> About two years ago I replaced the original voltage regulator on my BT7.
>
> The replacement, made in India, worked okay, but recently I have had to
> burnish the contacts on the main coil in order to get it to provide a
> charge.
>
> I have been thinking about refurbishing the rugged original Lucas
> regulator. Its resistor is fine and the coils do not look overheated or
> discolored.
>
> Are there any suggestions about finding a rugged voltage regulator these
> days?
>
> == Alex in Maine
>    1960 BT7, The Blue Mainie
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 29 14:30:52 2020
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 13:30:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query
In-Reply-To: <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <bc05049d-1dd9-e210-0f0d-74a0b0809744@porterscustom.com>
 <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <3C56FCB34AFA4754A961F65985ECB181@Inspiron660>

I have just decided to try a solid state regulator (BN7).  The last two 
regulators I have installed over a 25 year period came from Moss but I don't 
know where they were made.
I have spoken to some other owners and done a lot of on line research. 
There are at least 3 or 4 different solid state regulators currently being 
advertised.  It fits inside the original Lucas regulator box and the parts 
are manufactured in England.  The older I get the more I am searching for 
reliability as long as it doesn't change the look and feel of my Healey.

Good luck with your search.

Ron Fine



-----Original Message----- 
From: Alex via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 11:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query


About two years ago I replaced the original voltage regulator on my BT7.

The replacement, made in India, worked okay, but recently I have had to
burnish the contacts on the main coil in order to get it to provide a
charge.

I have been thinking about refurbishing the rugged original Lucas
regulator. Its resistor is fine and the coils do not look overheated or
discolored.

Are there any suggestions about finding a rugged voltage regulator these
days?

== Alex in Maine
   1960 BT7, The Blue Mainie
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Sep 29 19:58:07 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 01:58:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query
In-Reply-To: <3C56FCB34AFA4754A961F65985ECB181@Inspiron660>
References: <1417874197.187522.1601387283736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1417874197.187522.1601387283736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <bc05049d-1dd9-e210-0f0d-74a0b0809744@porterscustom.com>
 <78185497.323262.1601402951181@mail.yahoo.com>
 <959730073.323260.1601403007363@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2776d222-6b99-9ba2-51bb-a101d6e22946@roadrunner.com>
 <3C56FCB34AFA4754A961F65985ECB181@Inspiron660>
Message-ID: <1309519435.143884.1601431087029@mail.yahoo.com>

I have had a solid state regulator in my Bugeye for several years now and it performs flawlessly.? It is better on the battery also.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 1:40 PM, Ron Fine<ronfineesq at earthlink.net> wrote:   I have just decided to try a solid state regulator (BN7).? The last two 
regulators I have installed over a 25 year period came from Moss but I don't 
know where they were made.
I have spoken to some other owners and done a lot of on line research. 
There are at least 3 or 4 different solid state regulators currently being 
advertised.? It fits inside the original Lucas regulator box and the parts 
are manufactured in England.? The older I get the more I am searching for 
reliability as long as it doesn't change the look and feel of my Healey.

Good luck with your search.

Ron Fine



-----Original Message----- 
From: Alex via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 11:37 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator query


About two years ago I replaced the original voltage regulator on my BT7.

The replacement, made in India, worked okay, but recently I have had to
burnish the contacts on the main coil in order to get it to provide a
charge.

I have been thinking about refurbishing the rugged original Lucas
regulator. Its resistor is fine and the coils do not look overheated or
discolored.

Are there any suggestions about finding a rugged voltage regulator these
days?

== Alex in Maine
? 1960 BT7, The Blue Mainie
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From go2ghill at aol.com  Tue Sep 29 20:33:51 2020
From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 02:33:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fresh air cable
References: <1224915035.136346.1601433231778.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1224915035.136346.1601433231778@mail.yahoo.com>

I got a $6 choke cable and cut it to size and it works like the original much?cheaper than alternative cables?($45) for my 3000.?


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Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
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From rustyle at comcast.net  Wed Sep 30 18:55:19 2020
From: rustyle at comcast.net (rustyle at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 20:55:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter
Message-ID: <0d8f01d6978d$9632c1a0$c29844e0$@comcast.net>

Does anyone know of a regular oil filter that can replace K & N 235-830 or
WIX 235-855 onto the spin-on adapter?

Thanks,

Rusty 59 100-6

 

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 30 20:17:23 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2020 02:17:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <0d8f01d6978d$9632c1a0$c29844e0$@comcast.net>
References: <0d8f01d6978d$9632c1a0$c29844e0$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB3491B3DD7D1C58AFB5D4869FBF300@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Purolator # I just took off today was L1709 but put on ACDelco;

Regards,
Richard of KY
BN7 440

On Sep 30, 2020, at 20:00, rustyle--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
Does anyone know of a regular oil filter that can replace K & N 235-830 or WIX 235-855 onto the spin-on adapter?
Thanks,
Rusty 59 100-6

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Sep 30 20:34:31 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 19:34:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <0d8f01d6978d$9632c1a0$c29844e0$@comcast.net>
References: <0d8f01d6978d$9632c1a0$c29844e0$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d30cd308-e464-9318-1dfa-ef6f72528e6e@comcast.net>

If it's the disk-shaped adapter that bolts flat to the block mine came 
with a Fram PH3600, but I've used the Wix equivalent 51516 for years:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Filter-Wix-51516MP/222312165443?epid=79106411&hash=item33c2d67043:g:cz8AAOSw1T1eF6Ep

On 9/30/2020 5:55 PM, rustyle--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a regular oil filter that can replace K & N 
> 235-830 or WIX 235-855 onto the spin-on adapter?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rusty 59 100-6
>
>

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