[Healeys] BN1 rear springs

Sat Nov 14 11:13:12 MST 2020

 Re: original spec: Some of the issue with the springs is that the
original material was , if I remember correctly, .051 thickness and
that metal is no longer available today. Most of the shops have to use
.065 stock. Therefore, since my early BN1 used the "A" type neg.
camber spring (really wimpy) I chose to have the spring shop only make
the leaves that were broken. The finished package has to fit the
original U clamp and plate and if you use all .065 material, it is too
thick and stiff. Additionally, on the early frame, it is a flat floor,
so there is not room for a thick rolled end to fit in the space. You
cannot replace them with "C" type double eye springs. My ride height
appears to be normal, as configured now; not as low as I have seen on
some other squatty 100s.

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean via
Healeys" 
To: "S.Carr", "Michael Salter"
Cc: "healeys"
Sent: Saturday November 14 2020 9:00:45AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 rear springs

 I bought my springs from here. Made to original spec.
BCC | British Class Car specialists in Braking and Suspension Upgrades
[1]

BCC | BRITISH CLASS CAR SPECIALISTS IN BRAKING AND SUSPENSION UPGRADES

	BCC | British Classic Car Parts designed and manufactured in the UK,
the highest quality bespoke brake upgrades,..

No financial interest, just a satisfied customer.Mike MacLean

    On Saturday, November 14, 2020, 8:30:04 AM PST, Michael Salter via
Healeys  wrote:  

 That's not an easy job. 
Before tackling it try to determine that the springs that you are
installing are reasonably close to spec. as it is a real pain to have
to change them if they aren't.Put the axle in position, preferably
without the brake back plates installed, then install the springs
without attaching them to the axle. Sometimes after attaching the
front you have to put a wood block above the rear end of the spring
and jack up the center to get the rear shackle pins in place. You may
need a heavy person to sit in the trunk to prevent the car from
lifting as you do this.
Next use a couple of _VERY STOUT_ zip ties to tie the axle down
tightly to the frame on one side. 
Then on the other side use a very large and strong "C" clamp to pull
the spring up to the axle. which will allow you to install the square
shaped "U" bolts. (the wire ties are required to prevent the axle
pivoting up on the opposite frame rail as you do this "C" clamp thing.
(Take care and your time as there is a lot of stored energy in that
compressed spring) Leaving the zip ties in place repeat the "C" clamp
process on the other side. 
The bad news about this is that the new springs will sag after a
couple of years and eventually you will have to repeat the entire
process!!!
M

On Sat, Nov 14, 2020 at 10:45 AM S.Carr via Healeys  wrote:

	Any advice from the List on fitting new springs to the rear of my
BN1, so we can push the chassis around in the shop? We violated the
old rule of “never throw a part away until you’ve fitted the new
one”—and the new springs have much more arch than the old, and
we’re trying to figure out how to compress them enough to bolt them
in place. (And of course everything is so accessible under there….)

	Thanks in advance,

	Sarah Carr

	BN1 in PA

	Sent from Mail [3] for Windows 10

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