[Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw

Perry healeyguy at aol.com
Fri May 29 18:41:55 MDT 2020


Thanks Mr Salter.  That verifies the data collected from the old rusty frame! 😊


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From: Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 8:30 PM
To: Perry
Cc: Michael MacLean; Hank Leach; Larry Wendland; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw

HZS0405 is a 1/4" UNF  Hex head 5/8"" long l think.

M

On Fri., May 29, 2020, 7:19 p.m. Perry via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner trip back to the garage.  I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go.  Screw slipped right through the threads.  Checked the holes and they appear to be  ¼ -26.  A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit.  Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as “HZS0405”. 
Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy?
Perry
 
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From: Michael MacLean
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: 'Larry Wendland'; 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw
 
Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.  Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".  Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.  It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.  It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.  First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.  Second picture shows success. 



Mike MacLean

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On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net
<gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.  Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying " Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom
-----------------------------------------
From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw
This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.  There is a seam on the top and bottom.  The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.  No access to the screw from the rear.
Mike
 
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland <bighealey3k at aim.com> wrote: 
 
 
Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut.
Larry Wendland
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: healeyrik at gmail.com <healeyrik at gmail.com>; richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw


As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.  If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.  A little paint and then who will know?  Nothing is easy on this car.
Mike MacLean


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On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick
<healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:



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