[Healeys] Part III Knock offs

Sun May 10 19:54:11 MDT 2020

Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written.  Anti
seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place.
-Roland

On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just
> go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the
> maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, “A little grease should
> be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before
> refitting.”
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
> *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM
> *To: *'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>
>
> Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the
> likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on
> this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel
> seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for
> grease.  Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas  the intent of
> applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce
> friction (i.e., lubricate).  For that reason I have always used an
> anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize
> Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually
> uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never
> had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.  A very fine smear of
> grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing
> as the intent there IS to lubricate.  Also, providing it is used sparingly,
> I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the
> (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell
> intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub.  Not to say grease does not
> work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and
> achieve clean spokes at the same time?
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs
>
>
>
> Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff  bottoms out on the spline
> face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?  A combination of
> measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to
> back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.  If
> properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin
> them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the
> air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of
> Thor.
>
>
>
> One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a
> knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound
> long handle sledge hammer!  Flat ears? you betcha.
>
>
>
> I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just
> forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts
> metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.
>
>
>
> Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and
> knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease  so it
> doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Perry via Healeys"
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs
>
> Michael et al,
>
> Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire
> wheel hub and the knockoff.
>
> The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in
> the face of the extension. No rotational movement.
>
> The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The
> tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they
> have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension.
>
> What else holds the wheel in place…the knockoff. The cone in the knock off
> forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface
> is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the
> little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to
> stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight
> enough there is not movement here either.
>
> So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the
> knock off is not tight enough.
>
> Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of
> owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left
> and right) threads that self tighten.
>
> Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III
>
>
>
> At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.  I
> even have my groceries delivered.  I will only go out to eat at a drive
> through with an N95 mask on.  My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not
> wear one.  He refuses, but he is only three years old.  So, being
> sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a
> vengeance.  I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.  Everything to
> be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit,
> parts unavailability or just  my general ignorance and/or incompetence.
> This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new
> parts.  I thought I had done a nice job.  No lateral play in the hub.
> Turns easily without binding.  The correct amount of shims after much trial
> and error.  Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel
> flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.  I have yet to run the brake
> lines.  Maybe next.   This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.
> I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can
> move the car when it is down off the dollies.  After mounting the wheel I
> gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.  Now the moment of
> truth.  I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight
> back and forth.  Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved
> slightly.  I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the
> wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!  What!?!  How hard
> are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
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