From alfuller194 at gmail.com Fri May 1 11:18:14 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 13:18:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <027301d61f7a$9ee57f80$dcb07e80$@roadrunner.com> References: <001401d61c82$c620e8a0$5262b9e0$@xtra.co.nz> <004f01d61d83$8b0ee9e0$a12cbda0$@gmail.com> <21a701d61deb$739a7230$5acf5690$@roadrunner.com> <005901d61f15$1d652330$582f6990$@gmail.com> <027301d61f7a$9ee57f80$dcb07e80$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <001601d61fdc$7ffbe890$7ff3b9b0$@gmail.com> Thanks for the info ? it looks great! ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Bruce Steele Sent: Friday, May 1, 2020 1:38 AM To: alfuller194 at gmail.com; 'Mark Donaldson' ; 'healeylist' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Here you go. I?m no draftsman, but I hope my plan makes sense in conjunction with the photos. Some fettling was necessary to get the angle of the pedal acceptable. I also put some felt on the angle iron to cushion the cut resting area of the pedal arm. The upper corner of the pedal arm is radiused to allow it to swivel upward to access the dip switch. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com [mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 10:31 AM To: 'Bruce Steele' >; 'Mark Donaldson' >; 'healeylist' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Hi Bruce ? sure, if you get bored some pictures and dimensions would be great! I do recall seeing the picture of the sisal mats, and it taking me a while to realize there are four pedals. It?s a really nice looking setup! ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Bruce Steele > Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 2:00 AM To: alfuller194 at gmail.com ; 'Mark Donaldson' >; 'healeylist' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Hi, Al. I hope you?re well. The DWR pedals mount to the standard holes in the arms once the stock pedals are removed. However, as I recall the gap between the ears or tabs on the DWR pedals was not large enough and required some filing to widen. Yes, once the grip tape started coming off the aluminum box I built, I decided to fabricate a new dead pedal to match the other DWR pedals. It?s a flat plate, 1/8? I believe, large enough to fit under the dip switch mount with about 6? of angle iron welded perpendicular to it at the top right (inboard) corner. A piece of, as I recall, 1? x ?? flat bar forms the down arm, attached with a ?? spacer to the angle iron by a nylock. This allows me to tow up the pedal to access the dip switch. I recall that I had to do a fair amount of grinding to relieve the arm to fit the pedal. I ground the lower corner of the flat bar until I got a satisfactory angle and position of the pedal. I never did a plan; I just started building up the idea and did a lot of trial and error fitting. I can crawl under there and take some rough measurements, if you?d like. And it?s always fun at shows watching people trying to figure out what the 4th pedal is for! BTW, with the COVID-19 fallout, my nephew?s start date at Ford has been pushed back to September. He?s going to summer in Des Moines with his parents once he graduates next month. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com [mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 10:36 AM To: 'Mark Donaldson' >; 'Bruce Steele' >; 'healeylist' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM To: 'Bruce Steele' >; 'healeylist' > Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Bruce, In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. Cheers Mark Ardmore NZ -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele > Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com ; 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM To: healey list < healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Lights So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 163710 bytes Desc: not available URL: From wwycoffbn7 at aol.com Fri May 1 11:30:21 2020 From: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com (wwycoffbn7 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 17:30:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Fri May 1 12:49:18 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:49:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for bracket Message-ID: Hi all, I am looking for the Steering Column Mount Bracket for my BJ8. It is Key #202 in the Moss Catalogue on the Front Body Fittings page(page 128 in the Winter catalogue). Does anyone have one or know where I can find one? Thanks! Bruce Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 1 22:10:39 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 21:10:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > > Hi, > > Thanks all.As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience > shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil > additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that > did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades > I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the > climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would > find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell > having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it > no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this > happened to Red Line. > > So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response > sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to > respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line > response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU > 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat > tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm > phosphorus. > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half > bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.It also has bit of > sulfur, 16.6 grams.I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could > result in too much.I am just not inclined to experiment. > > The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for > tropical heat.However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a > much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on > the manufacturer.The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than > those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. > > I am confident using the 10W40.I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was > an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing > weather.There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me > to Red Line?s 10W40.The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an > upside for me to use a heavier oil. > > Many thanks to the folks who responded. > > Bill > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri May 1 23:07:23 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 15:07:23 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <1039349993.87167483.1588097248326.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1039349993.87167483.1588097248326.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace wrote: > > ? > I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. > What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: alfuller194 at gmail.com > To: 'Mark Donaldson' , 'Bruce Steele' , 'healeylist' > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: > > [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; > > [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? > > > > ---------------- > > All the best, > > Al Fuller > > > > > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM > To: 'Bruce Steele' ; 'healeylist' > Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > Bruce, > > > > In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. > > Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? > > I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. > > > > Cheers > > Mark > > > > Ardmore > > NZ > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Steele > Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights > > > > Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: > > 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. > > 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys > > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM > > To: healey list > > Subject: [Healeys] Lights > > > > So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 942733 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Fri May 1 23:31:23 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 17:31:23 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com> References: <1039349993.87167483.1588097248326.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm? And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal? Mark From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m. To: Roger Grace Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson ; healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace > wrote: ? I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. rg ----- Original Message ----- From: alfuller194 at gmail.com To: 'Mark Donaldson' >, 'Bruce Steele' >, 'healeylist' > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 104145 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat May 2 00:53:51 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:53:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <151156C5-16D2-4D90-A620-A6D70B2D108B@gmail.com> Hi Mark, I?ll take some More pics on Monday. It?s pretty much the standard healey arm, but set up for a cable. The round piece underneath is an adjustable throttle stop I made, to stop me stretching the accelerator cable. ? Best Chris > On 2 May 2020, at 3:31 pm, Mark Donaldson wrote: > > ? > Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm? > And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal? > > Mark > > From: Chris Dimmock > Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m. > To: Roger Grace > Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > > > > > On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace wrote: > > ? > I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. > What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: alfuller194 at gmail.com > To: 'Mark Donaldson' , 'Bruce Steele' , 'healeylist' > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat May 2 07:32:48 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 13:32:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Sat May 2 08:02:13 2020 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:02:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Amazon -$76.11 (?) for 3 5gal VR 1 20/50. On Sat, May 2, 2020, 9:33 AM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site > was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next > best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; > still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before > refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few > years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never > got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house > shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than > $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > > Hi, > Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience > shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives > was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not > display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have > used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. > However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I > also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet > for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California > rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. > > So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response > sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to > respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line > response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU > 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet > cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle > is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 > grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too > much. I am just not inclined to experiment. > > The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical > heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more > expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the > manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those > available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. > > I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was > an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There > were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s > 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to > use a heavier oil. > > Many thanks to the folks who responded. > > Bill > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Sat May 2 08:13:49 2020 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:13:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Message-ID: <5ead8021.1c69fb81.9cdd9.bbce@mx.google.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 2 09:05:18 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:05:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <45578790-71c2-9c65-e0d7-10476635fc90@comcast.net> https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pack-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-SAE-20W-50-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/384213070?selected=true You order the '2-pack' for $8.76--$4.38/qt--but, unfortunately, it's OOS for now (was available a couple days ago). On 5/2/2020 6:32 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's > site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. > The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 > 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought > from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some > strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull > it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I > haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as > Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat May 2 09:24:28 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:24:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com> My local NAPA carries VR1 20W50 and told me there are no problems selling it in CA. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 9:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi, Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. Many thanks to the folks who responded. Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat May 2 09:28:53 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com> References: <1039349993.87167483.1588097248326.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com> I presume you also polished your DWR pedals. I was quite surprised that they arrived with little finishing. This offset idea is great. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 10:07 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Mark Donaldson ; healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace > wrote: ? I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. rg ----- Original Message ----- From: alfuller194 at gmail.com To: 'Mark Donaldson' >, 'Bruce Steele' >, 'healeylist' > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} @font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} @font-face {font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji"; panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;} @font-face {font-family:Tahoma; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;} a:link, span.MsoHyperlink {mso-style-priority:99; color:#0563C1; text-decoration:underline;} p.MsoPlainText, li.MsoPlainText, div.MsoPlainText {mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-link:"Plain Text Char"; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; color:#0033CC;} span.PlainTextChar {mso-style-name:"Plain Text Char"; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-link:"Plain Text"; font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; color:#0033CC;} span.EmailStyle22 {mso-style-type:personal-compose; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:windowtext;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; font-size:10.0pt;} @page WordSection1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} --> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM To: 'Bruce Steele' >; 'healeylist' > Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension Bruce, In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. Cheers Mark Ardmore NZ -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele > Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com ; 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM To: healey list < healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Lights So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 942733 bytes Desc: not available URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sat May 2 09:33:18 2020 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:33:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com> References: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732@accesscomm.ca> Has anyone used Camoil? It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across anyone who has used it. https://www.camoils.com BobE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 2 10:00:58 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:00:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732@accesscomm.ca> References: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com> <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732@accesscomm.ca> Message-ID: Not me, but I don't think I'd have any qualms using it (unless it's majorly expensive; oil change frequency is at least as important as oil brand/grade/type). Seems similar to something in use in the aviation community for a long time: https://cessnaowner.org/camguard/ (but this IS an additive). I used to put miracle elixirs in my oil and gas--yes, I even tried the infamous 'Slick 50,' possibly the product that started the additive rage (maybe it was 'STP?')--but now I figure it's best to use namebrand/TopTier gas and a reputable oil and change it often. From what I can tell, quite a few Healey owners use VR-1, and I don't recall anyone having an issue with it (doesn't mean it hasn't happened). Not an additive, but I put an aftermarket oil/air separator ('catch can') on my Mustang GT, and I'm glad I did; it catches about a teaspoon of oil every thousand miles.? That oil would otherwise gunk up the intake manifold (engine has both port and direct injection, but neither helps keep the manifold clean).? Note this isn't a problem with a stock Healey, as the SUs dump plenty of raw gas into the manifold (they even need drains for the excess!). Bob On 5/2/2020 8:33 AM, Engl wrote: > Has anyone used Camoil? ?It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across > anyone who has used it. > > https://www.camoils.com > > BobE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 2 11:53:16 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:53:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This came across my feed yesterday. seemed to be timely posted https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/new_oil_and_old_cars. A history of engine oil development Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 10:38 AM wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi, > > Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience > shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives > was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not > display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have > used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. > However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I > also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet > for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California > rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. > > > > So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response > sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to > respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line > response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU > 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet > cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle > is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 > grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too > much. I am just not inclined to experiment. > > > > The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical > heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more > expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the > manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those > available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. > > > > I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was > an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There > were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s > 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to > use a heavier oil. > > > > Many thanks to the folks who responded. > > > > Bill > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sat May 2 12:25:49 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 11:25:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for bracket Message-ID: Found one, thanks Perry! Sent from my iPhone > On May 2, 2020, at 11:02 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Looking for bracket (Bruce Peters) > 2. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell) > 3. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock) > 4. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Mark Donaldson) > 5. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock) > 6. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > (warthodson at aol.com) > 7. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren Dietz) > 8. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren) > 9. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell) > 10. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bruce Steele) > 11. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Bruce Steele) > 12. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Engl) > 13. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell) > 14. Re: 100M Head (Randy Hicks) > 15. Re: 100M Head (Curtis Arndt) > 16. Re: 100M Head (Michael MacLean) > 17. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (i erbs) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:49:18 -0700 > From: Bruce Peters > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Looking for bracket > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi all, > I am looking for the Steering Column Mount Bracket for my BJ8. It is Key #202 in the Moss Catalogue on the Front Body Fittings page(page 128 in the Winter catalogue). Does anyone have one or know where I can find one? Thanks! > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPhone > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 21:10:39 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; > still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from > before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange > twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the > shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on > any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for > free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > >> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> Thanks all.As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience >> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil >> additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that >> did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades >> I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the >> climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would >> find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell >> having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it >> no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this >> happened to Red Line. >> >> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response >> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to >> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line >> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU >> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat >> tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm >> phosphorus. >> >> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half >> bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.It also has bit of >> sulfur, 16.6 grams.I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could >> result in too much.I am just not inclined to experiment. >> >> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for >> tropical heat.However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a >> much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on >> the manufacturer.The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than >> those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. >> >> I am confident using the 10W40.I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was >> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing >> weather.There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me >> to Red Line?s 10W40.The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an >> upside for me to use a heavier oil. >> >> Many thanks to the folks who responded. >> >> Bill >> >> >> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 15:07:23 +1000 > From: Chris Dimmock > To: Roger Grace > Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com, Mark Donaldson > , healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > Message-ID: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > > > >> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace wrote: >> >> ? >> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. >> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. >> rg >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com >> To: 'Mark Donaldson' , 'Bruce Steele' , 'healeylist' >> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension >> >> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: >> >> [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; >> >> [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? >> >> >> >> ---------------- >> >> All the best, >> >> Al Fuller >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson >> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM >> To: 'Bruce Steele' ; 'healeylist' >> Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension >> >> >> >> Bruce, >> >> >> >> In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. >> >> Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? >> >> I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. >> >> >> >> Cheers >> >> Mark >> >> >> >> Ardmore >> >> NZ >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bruce Steele >> Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. >> To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights >> >> >> >> Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: >> >> 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. >> >> 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. >> >> >> >> Bruce Steele >> >> Brea, CA >> >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys >> >> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM >> >> To: healey list >> >> Subject: [Healeys] Lights >> >> >> >> So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image0.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 942733 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 17:31:23 +1200 > From: "Mark Donaldson" > To: "'Chris Dimmock'" , "'Roger Grace'" > > Cc: , "'healeylist'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > Message-ID: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm? > > And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal? > > > > Mark > > > > From: Chris Dimmock > Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m. > To: Roger Grace > Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > > > > > > > > > > On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace > wrote: > > ? > > I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. > > What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. > > rg > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: alfuller194 at gmail.com > To: 'Mark Donaldson' >, 'Bruce Steele' >, 'healeylist' > > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image003.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 104145 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:53:51 +1000 > From: Chris Dimmock > To: Mark Donaldson > Cc: Roger Grace , alfuller194 at gmail.com, > healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > Message-ID: <151156C5-16D2-4D90-A620-A6D70B2D108B at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Mark, > I?ll take some More pics on Monday. > It?s pretty much the standard healey arm, but set up for a cable. > The round piece underneath is an adjustable throttle stop I made, to stop me stretching the accelerator cable. ? > Best > Chris > >> On 2 May 2020, at 3:31 pm, Mark Donaldson wrote: >> >> ? >> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm? >> And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel rest perhaps, or part of the pedal? >> >> Mark >> >> From: Chris Dimmock >> Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m. >> To: Roger Grace >> Cc: alfuller194 at gmail.com; Mark Donaldson ; healeylist >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension >> >> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. >> >> >> >> >> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace wrote: >> >> ? >> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. >> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. >> rg >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: alfuller194 at gmail.com >> To: 'Mark Donaldson' , 'Bruce Steele' , 'healeylist' >> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 13:32:48 +0000 (UTC) > From: warthodson at aol.com > To: "bspidell at comcast.net" , > "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: <808646171.146400.1588426368901 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.?Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > > > Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's fl > at tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:02:13 -0400 > From: Warren Dietz > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: Bob Spidell , Healey List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Amazon -$76.11 (?) for 3 5gal VR 1 20/50. > > On Sat, May 2, 2020, 9:33 AM warthodson--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site >> was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next >> best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. >> Gary Hodson >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bob Spidell >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. >> >> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; >> still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before >> refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few >> years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never >> got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house >> shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than >> $4/qt I'll be happy. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: >> >> Hi, >> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience >> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives >> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not >> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have >> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. >> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I >> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet >> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California >> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. >> >> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response >> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to >> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line >> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU >> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet >> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. >> >> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle >> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 >> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too >> much. I am just not inclined to experiment. >> >> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical >> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more >> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the >> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those >> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. >> >> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was >> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There >> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s >> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to >> use a heavier oil. >> >> Many thanks to the folks who responded. >> >> Bill >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:13:49 -0400 > From: Warren > To: "warthodson at aol.com" , "bspidell at comcast.net" > , "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: <5ead8021.1c69fb81.9cdd9.bbce at mx.google.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:05:18 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: warthodson at aol.com, "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: <45578790-71c2-9c65-e0d7-10476635fc90 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pack-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-SAE-20W-50-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/384213070?selected=true > > You order the '2-pack' for $8.76--$4.38/qt--but, unfortunately, it's OOS > for now (was available a couple days ago). > > > >> On 5/2/2020 6:32 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's >> site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. >> The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. >> Gary Hodson >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bob Spidell >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. >> >> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 >> 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought >> from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some >> strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull >> it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I >> haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as >> Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:24:28 -0700 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'Bob Spidell'" , > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My local NAPA carries VR1 20W50 and told me there are no problems selling it in CA. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 9:11 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > > Hi, > > Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. > > > > So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. > > > > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. > > > > The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. > > > > I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. > > > > Many thanks to the folks who responded. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:28:53 -0700 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'Chris Dimmock'" , "'Roger Grace'" > > Cc: "'Mark Donaldson'" , "'healeylist'" > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > Message-ID: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I presume you also polished your DWR pedals. I was quite surprised that they arrived with little finishing. This offset idea is great. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock > Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 10:07 PM > To: Roger Grace > Cc: Mark Donaldson ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > > > > > > > > > > On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace > wrote: > > ? > > I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. > > What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. > > rg > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: alfuller194 at gmail.com > To: 'Mark Donaldson' >, 'Bruce Steele' >, 'healeylist' > > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > > > > > @font-face > {font-family:"Cambria Math"; > panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} > @font-face > {font-family:Calibri; > panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} > @font-face > {font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji"; > panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;} > @font-face > {font-family:Tahoma; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} > > > > p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal > {margin:0in; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; > font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;} > a:link, span.MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; > color:#0563C1; > text-decoration:underline;} > p.MsoPlainText, li.MsoPlainText, div.MsoPlainText > {mso-style-priority:99; > mso-style-link:"Plain Text Char"; > margin:0in; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; > font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; > color:#0033CC;} > span.PlainTextChar > {mso-style-name:"Plain Text Char"; > mso-style-priority:99; > mso-style-link:"Plain Text"; > font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; > color:#0033CC;} > span.EmailStyle22 > {mso-style-type:personal-compose; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;} > .MsoChpDefault > {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;} > @page WordSection1 > {size:8.5in 11.0in; > margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} > div.WordSection1 > {page:WordSection1;} > --> > > Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: > > [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; > > [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? > > > > ---------------- > > All the best, > > Al Fuller > > > > > > > > From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM > To: 'Bruce Steele' >; 'healeylist' > > Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > Bruce, > > > > In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. > > Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? > > I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. > > > > Cheers > > Mark > > > > Ardmore > > NZ > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Steele > > Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com ; 'healeylist' > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights > > > > Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: > > 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. > > 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys > > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM > > To: healey list < healeys at autox.team.net> > > Subject: [Healeys] Lights > > > > So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image001.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 942733 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:33:18 -0600 > From: Engl > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732 at accesscomm.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Has anyone used Camoil? It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across anyone who has used it. > > https://www.camoils.com > > BobE > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:00:58 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Not me, but I don't think I'd have any qualms using it (unless it's > majorly expensive; oil change frequency is at least as important as oil > brand/grade/type). Seems similar to something in use in the aviation > community for a long time: https://cessnaowner.org/camguard/ (but this > IS an additive). > > I used to put miracle elixirs in my oil and gas--yes, I even tried the > infamous 'Slick 50,' possibly the product that started the additive rage > (maybe it was 'STP?')--but now I figure it's best to use > namebrand/TopTier gas and a reputable oil and change it often. From what > I can tell, quite a few Healey owners use VR-1, and I don't recall > anyone having an issue with it (doesn't mean it hasn't happened). > > Not an additive, but I put an aftermarket oil/air separator ('catch > can') on my Mustang GT, and I'm glad I did; it catches about a teaspoon > of oil every thousand miles.? That oil would otherwise gunk up the > intake manifold (engine has both port and direct injection, but neither > helps keep the manifold clean).? Note this isn't a problem with a stock > Healey, as the SUs dump plenty of raw gas into the manifold (they even > need drains for the excess!). > > Bob > > >> On 5/2/2020 8:33 AM, Engl wrote: >> Has anyone used Camoil? ?It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across >> anyone who has used it. >> >> https://www.camoils.com >> >> BobE > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 14:11:07 -0400 > From: Randy Hicks > To: Curt Arndt > Cc: Kees Oudesluijs , Michael MacLean > , Bob Spidell , Healey > List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895. > > Randy > >> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: >> >> Mike, >> >> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number. >> >> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053 respectively. >> >> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that supposedly some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered as such, and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M" carburetors with just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older than me, with a lot more experience. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean: >> >>> >>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded into the top of the head in the picture. >>> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 12:28:43 -0700 > From: Curtis Arndt > To: Randy Hicks > Cc: Kees Oudesluijs , Michael MacLean > , Bob Spidell , Healey > List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that > the average restorer/judge can see. > >> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks wrote: >> >> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895. >> >> Randy >> >> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: >> >> Mike, >> >> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily >> removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number. >> >> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two >> types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either >> AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers >> 6047 and 6053 respectively. >> >> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that >> supposedly some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. >> However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered >> as such, and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M >> experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M" >> carburetors with just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15 >> years older than me, with a lot more experience. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >>> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean: >>> >>> >>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told >>> me it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, >>> valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was >>> putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in >>> diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it >>> is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit >>> over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the >>> chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head >>> had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded >>> into the top of the head in the picture. >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 19:39:14 +0000 (UTC) > From: Michael MacLean > To: Randy Hicks , Curtis Arndt > > Cc: Kees Oudesluijs , Bob Spidell > , Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head > Message-ID: <1013287564.29073.1588275554710 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > OK, I'm getting an education here too.? So, what is the number stamped into the top flange of the head in the picture?? Also Kees mention I have the wrong washer under the head nut.? Someone needs to tell Moss then, that's the one they sold me for that purpose.Mike MacLean? > > On Thursday, April 30, 2020, 12:28:54 PM PDT, Curtis Arndt wrote: > > Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that the average restorer/judge can see. > > On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks wrote: > > The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895. > Randy > > > On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Mike, > No they did not number engine parts other than the engine?number (easily removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.?? > Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate?hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053 respectively. > Also on a somewhat related?subject, a recent thread stated that supposedly?some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered as such, and two other members of the Concours?Committee?(both 100M experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never?seen Factory "M" carburetors with just a 6040 number.? I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older than me, with a lot more experience. > Cheers, > Curt > > Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean: > > > > When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me it was off a 100M.? A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged.? When I was putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in diameter than the rest.? This was the repaired valve and guide.? Luckily it is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit over it.? My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the chassis number on a 100M.? Did they also number engine parts?? This head had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly.? See the " X" welded into the top of the head in the picture. Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 17 > Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:53:16 -0700 > From: i erbs > To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > This came across my feed yesterday. seemed to be timely posted > https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/new_oil_and_old_cars. A history > of engine oil development > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 10:38 AM wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience >> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives >> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not >> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have >> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. >> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I >> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet >> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California >> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. >> >> >> >> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response >> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to >> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line >> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU >> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet >> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. >> >> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle >> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 >> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too >> much. I am just not inclined to experiment. >> >> >> >> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical >> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more >> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the >> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those >> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. >> >> >> >> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was >> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There >> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s >> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to >> use a heavier oil. >> >> >> >> Many thanks to the folks who responded. >> >> >> >> Bill >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 157 > **************************************** From warthodson at aol.com Sat May 2 13:24:24 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 19:24:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <422112240.274614.1588447464038@mail.yahoo.com> $1.26/quart?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Warren Dietz To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Bob Spidell ; Healey List Sent: Sat, May 2, 2020 9:02 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Amazon -$76.11 (?) for 3 5gal? VR 1 20/50. On Sat, May 2, 2020, 9:33 AM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 2 14:40:01 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 20:40:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <880222594.293411.1588452001749@mail.yahoo.com> Kendall GT-1 20W-50 and other weights can be had on Amazon for half the price of Valvoline VR-1 with the same protection. https://tinyurl.com/y7m6zlmx Mike MacLean On Friday, May 1, 2020, 9:11:28 PM PDT, Bob Spidell wrote: Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat May 2 17:06:29 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:06:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <880222594.293411.1588452001749@mail.yahoo.com> References: <880222594.293411.1588452001749@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2B6095CA-9A6C-4E2C-8A06-2554CF3FFB8B@sbcglobal.net> David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On May 2, 2020, at 1:40 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > > Kendall GT-1 20W-50 and other weights can be had on Amazon for half the price of Valvoline VR-1 with the same protection. > > https://tinyurl.com/y7m6zlmx > > Mike MacLean > On Friday, May 1, 2020, 9:11:28 PM PDT, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: >> Hi, >> >> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. >> >> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. >> >> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. >> >> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. >> >> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. >> >> Many thanks to the folks who responded. >> >> >> Bill >> >> >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat May 2 17:06:29 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:06:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <880222594.293411.1588452001749@mail.yahoo.com> References: <880222594.293411.1588452001749@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2B6095CA-9A6C-4E2C-8A06-2554CF3FFB8B@sbcglobal.net> David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On May 2, 2020, at 1:40 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > > Kendall GT-1 20W-50 and other weights can be had on Amazon for half the price of Valvoline VR-1 with the same protection. > > https://tinyurl.com/y7m6zlmx > > Mike MacLean > On Friday, May 1, 2020, 9:11:28 PM PDT, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: >> Hi, >> >> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. >> >> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. >> >> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. >> >> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. >> >> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. >> >> Many thanks to the folks who responded. >> >> >> Bill >> >> >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat May 2 17:28:59 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 09:28:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension In-Reply-To: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com> References: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <939A36D5-77EE-4382-943C-CD20B2A37F5D@gmail.com> Ha! No. I didn?t ever polish them. I think that?s just a function of them having been on the car since 1998, so they are well worn in, and reflection in the photo!! Best Chris. > On 3 May 2020, at 1:28 am, Bruce Steele wrote: > > ? > I presume you also polished your DWR pedals. I was quite surprised that they arrived with little finishing. This offset idea is great. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock > Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 10:07 PM > To: Roger Grace > Cc: Mark Donaldson ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better enable heel/ toe. > > > > > On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace wrote: > > ? > I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big. > What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an additional 1/2 in pedal separation. > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: alfuller194 at gmail.com > To: 'Mark Donaldson' , 'Bruce Steele' , 'healeylist' > Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > > > @font-face > {font-family:"Cambria Math"; > panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} > @font-face > {font-family:Calibri; > panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} > @font-face > {font-family:"Segoe UI Emoji"; > panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;} > @font-face > {font-family:Tahoma; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} > > p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal > {margin:0in; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; > font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;} > a:link, span.MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; > color:#0563C1; > text-decoration:underline;} > p.MsoPlainText, li.MsoPlainText, div.MsoPlainText > {mso-style-priority:99; > mso-style-link:"Plain Text Char"; > margin:0in; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; > font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; > color:#0033CC;} > span.PlainTextChar > {mso-style-name:"Plain Text Char"; > mso-style-priority:99; > mso-style-link:"Plain Text"; > font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif; > color:#0033CC;} > span.EmailStyle22 > {mso-style-type:personal-compose; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;} > .MsoChpDefault > {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;} > @page WordSection1 > {size:8.5in 11.0in; > margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} > div.WordSection1 > {page:WordSection1;} > --> > Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this: > [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?; > [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ? how does the dead pedal work? > > ---------------- > All the best, > Al Fuller > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM > To: 'Bruce Steele' ; 'healeylist' > Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension > > Bruce, > > > > In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago. > > Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like heel and toeing? > > I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the same size as in the Mini Cooper. > > > > Cheers > > Mark > > > > Ardmore > > NZ > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Steele > Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m. > To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights > > > > Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: > > 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. > > 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys > > Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM > > To: healey list > > Subject: [Healeys] Lights > > > > So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat May 2 22:00:44 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 21:00:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lights In-Reply-To: <18dc01d61bd8$8764bba0$962e32e0$@roadrunner.com> References: <18dc01d61bd8$8764bba0$962e32e0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <088d01d620ff$6d608640$482192c0$@roadrunner.com> And here's the finished product. Still waiting for someone to guess the inspiration of the design. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:40 AM To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Lights So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 . -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2035.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78206 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 2 22:13:36 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 04:13:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200502_210400.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4700862 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat May 2 23:12:48 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 17:12:48 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Driving time Message-ID: <002601d62109$7e6db6b0$7b492410$@xtra.co.nz> Bruce, I see your clock shows 20 to 3. Shouldn?t you be driving at about 10 to 2? ? Mark Ardmore, NZ -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, 3 May 2020 4:01 p.m. To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights And here's the finished product. Still waiting for someone to guess the inspiration of the design. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:40 AM To: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' < Healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78206 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 3 02:24:16 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 18:24:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Hello How much is a US quart? Is it a quarter of a US gallon which is 7/8ths of an imperial gallon which is equal to 4.54609 litres? Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 11:33 PM To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi, Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. Many thanks to the folks who responded. Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun May 3 05:17:43 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 07:17:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: *"Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures."* ....said by a citizen of a country formerly in the British Empire, some of whose standards of weights and measurements depended upon the size of its then-ruler's body parts! On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 4:24 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > > > How much is a US quart? > > > > Is it a quarter of a US gallon which is 7/8ths of an imperial gallon which > is equal to 4.54609 litres? > > > > Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t > have its own weights and measures. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- > via Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, 2 May 2020 11:33 PM > *To:* bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > > > The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site > was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next > best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. > > Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; > still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before > refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few > years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never > got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house > shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than > $4/qt I'll be happy. > > Bob > > On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: > > Hi, > > Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience > shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives > was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not > display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used > that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. > However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I > also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet > for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California > rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. > > > > So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response > sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to > respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line > response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU > 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet > cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. > > As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle > is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 > grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too > much. I am just not inclined to experiment. > > > > The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical > heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more > expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the > manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those > available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. > > > > I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an > air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There > were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s > 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use > a heavier oil. > > > > Many thanks to the folks who responded. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_8580753241976023623_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun May 3 06:15:05 2020 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 08:15:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <8020be9b-9afe-4194-8eb6-7ff205de8457@htcnet.org> And I suppose you would want everyone to drive on the left side of the road too. :-D John Hightown, VA On 5/3/2020 4:24 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t > have its own weights and measures. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 3 06:22:00 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 22:22:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <009d01d62145$73259070$5970b150$@tpg.com.au> We are still part of the British Commonwealth, but adopted the metric system in the 1960s. We also was the first country to have universal suffrage. We also have compulsory voting!!!! Wouldn?t that be an eye opener. Hoo Roo Patrick From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, 3 May 2020 9:18 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: warthodson at aol.com; Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. "Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures." ....said by a citizen of a country formerly in the British Empire, some of whose standards of weights and measurements depended upon the size of its then-ruler's body parts! On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 4:24 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello How much is a US quart? Is it a quarter of a US gallon which is 7/8ths of an imperial gallon which is equal to 4.54609 litres? Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 11:33 PM To: bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi, Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. Many thanks to the folks who responded. Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 3 06:57:17 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 08:57:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael 100 Tappets- Diameter 0.99875-0.99925 Length (overall) 3.02625-3.03675 Six cylinder Tappets are slightly smaller diameter and nearly a ? inch shorter. All six cylinder tappets have 8 holes. I do not have any 100 tappets out of an engine right now so the number of holes would have been an early morning unknown for me, except for a photo in my 100 Service Manual that shows the 100 tappets had 8 holes. ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:46 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 3 06:57:17 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 08:57:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael 100 Tappets- Diameter 0.99875-0.99925 Length (overall) 3.02625-3.03675 Six cylinder Tappets are slightly smaller diameter and nearly a ? inch shorter. All six cylinder tappets have 8 holes. I do not have any 100 tappets out of an engine right now so the number of holes would have been an early morning unknown for me, except for a photo in my 100 Service Manual that shows the 100 tappets had 8 holes. ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:46 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gilrockwell at gmail.com Sun May 3 07:01:03 2020 From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 09:01:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <004d01d6214a$e6f65c50$b4e314f0$@gmail.com> And you?d probably want us to switch to driving on the left as well J!!! Gil 61 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2020 4:24 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Hello How much is a US quart? Is it a quarter of a US gallon which is 7/8ths of an imperial gallon which is equal to 4.54609 litres? Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 3 07:09:32 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 14:09:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <001901d6214c$187b1940$49714bc0$@alexarevel.plus.com> As are you? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: 03 May 2020 12:18 To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. "Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures." ....said by a citizen of a country formerly in the British Empire, some of whose standards of weights and measurements depended upon the size of its then-ruler's body parts! On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 4:24 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn > wrote: Hello How much is a US quart? Is it a quarter of a US gallon which is 7/8ths of an imperial gallon which is equal to 4.54609 litres? Wouldn?t it make sense if everyone was the same and that the US didn?t have its own weights and measures. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia 74.8 kilometres or 46 ? miles for Sydney From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 11:33 PM To: bspidell at comcast.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy. Bob On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote: Hi, Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line. So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus. As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am just not inclined to experiment. The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty. I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil. Many thanks to the folks who responded. Bill _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryan at jimryan.com Sun May 3 07:19:25 2020 From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 09:19:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stolen Healey In-Reply-To: <20200503125756.50F15A17D8@autox.team.net> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> <20200503125756.50F15A17D8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Saw this in the AH experience forums. I just thought I would post it here in the event anybody sees this vin number. Anne MacKenzie #25 Re: Any hope for a stolen AH 3000 Send PM Today by stolen3000 Mahone Bay, NS, Canada [image: CAN] Steve, I was so encouraged by your post regarding the Registry that I really started to wonder where I could obtain any valuable identification information. All the documentation ---registration, insurance, manuals etc.--- was in the glove box when the car was stolen. As I mentioned , I have only 5 original keys. I do believe one is for the glove box and there are duplicates for the ignition and the boot. However, I started to look through all my books in case I had slipped something in any of them and imagine my joy when I found a plastic envelope containing a grease covered little book entitled "Your Passport to BMC service" On the inside cover it gives my name, address and the following information: MAKE: Austin Healey MODEL: 3000 MkIII Serial No. 26851 Engine No. 1556 Original Licence Date :June 20, 1964 Mileage: 114 Selling Dealer: C.J. Slauenwhite's Garage, Lawrencetown, NS Is any of this information useful? Anne On Sun, May 3, 2020, 8:57 AM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Michael > > 100 Tappets- > > Diameter 0.99875-0.99925 > > Length (overall) 3.02625-3.03675 > > > > Six cylinder Tappets are slightly smaller diameter and nearly a ? inch > shorter. All six cylinder tappets have 8 holes. I do not have any 100 > tappets out of an engine right now so the number of holes would have been > an early morning unknown for me, except for a photo in my 100 Service > Manual that shows the 100 tappets had 8 holes. ? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Sunday, May 3, 2020 1:46 AM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Saturday Night Rant > > > > Here's today's Healey 100 rant. As you can see in the picture of the > eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest. I bought these several > years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they > are not the same. Two of them have eight holes in the body. The rest have > three holes. The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch > shorter than the other six. That can't be good. These are the things I > run into that slows progress on this engine. I suspect the two different > ones are for a different application. Can someone tell me what the correct > overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is? For all I know I might only > have two correct lifters. > > Mike MacLean > > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun May 3 07:58:54 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:58:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1560737371.471708.1588514338515@mail.yahoo.com> Having worked at Victoria British (briefly) my guess is that they sourced the lifters from 2 different sources & just threw them all in the same inventory bin.?"A lifter is a lifter". If a vendor said it fit a Healey, that is all they needed to know. "Quality control" works like this: They ship parts out until a customer complains, then someone investigates. No QC on the front end.?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Sent: Sat, May 2, 2020 11:13 pm Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200502_210400.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4700862 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun May 3 15:10:07 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 03 May 2020 21:10:07 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant Message-ID: Mike, ???Yeah, don't know what to say. I have this style in my car, all eight of them. Are they correct? Who knows? As much of the work done to this car before I got it, I have no idea is they are correct or not. I'm going to use them as they are all the same and the car did run with them, so once I'm finished, I'll see if it still runs and hopefully, runs better than it did. ???Again, good luck~ Steven?? On May 3, 2020 at 11:12 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I don't want to argue the point, but on the Moss website the difference between the two lifters serves to confuse me even further.? The two pictures below are from the Moss website.? The lifter with what appears to be three holes is the illustration they give for the 100-4 tappet.? The other picture with the lifter with eight holes is the illustration they give for the six cylinder car. Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 10:33:13 AM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike, ???I just happen to have the head off of my car and all of my lifters are the same. Looks like you have two the same as my eight. I measured the height, 3 1/8" (maybe a smidge either way), 1" in diameter at the base, 1/2" outer diameter of the cup holding the pushrod and 2 3/4" from the base of the lifter to that same cup. Eight holes in each lifter and all recessed same as your two. ???Not sure what else to tell you other than I am finding all kinds of things wrong with the previous work compared to my shop manual and I'm not even a mechanic! It just proves to me that these engines want to run! No matter what folks do to their inards!? ???Good luck and hope this helps. Steven Kingsbury BN1 in progress That parallax view of the camera lens makes the measurement look off, but it's 3 1/8". Good luck!! On May 2, 2020 at 10:30 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sun May 3 15:44:41 2020 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 21:44:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary Gauge panels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <655195042.417024.1588542281707@mail.yahoo.com> For those of you with a BN4 through BJ7, the heater control panel is an ideal place to mount an auxiliary gauge panel. All you need to do is order a two-gauge or three-gauge metal panel from one of the standard classic gauge suppliers and cover it with vinyl to match your dashboard, then screw it under the heater control panel. Looks nearly original.Gary Anderson From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:40 AM To:? fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' < Healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash.? When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells.? Two projects for me: 1.? I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps.? Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel.? Hint:? It is Healey related. 2.? I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78206 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun May 3 16:16:52 2020 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 22:16:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary Gauge panels In-Reply-To: <655195042.417024.1588542281707@mail.yahoo.com> References: , <655195042.417024.1588542281707@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: FWIW I have one on my BN7; 2 gauges: oil pressure and engine temp by SW. The original gauge is in place but disconnected Regards, Richard C BN7 440 On May 3, 2020, at 16:44, editorgary--- via Healeys wrote: ? For those of you with a BN4 through BJ7, the heater control panel is an ideal place to mount an auxiliary gauge panel. All you need to do is order a two-gauge or three-gauge metal panel from one of the standard classic gauge suppliers and cover it with vinyl to match your dashboard, then screw it under the heater control panel. Looks nearly original. Gary Anderson From: Healeys [ > mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:40 AM To: > fsufan1952 at yahoo.com; 'healeylist' < > Healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me: 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control, which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel. Hint: It is Healey related. 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78206 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Sun May 3 16:34:53 2020 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 08:34:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <011d01d6219b$1113b500$333b1f00$@cosmos.net.au> Hi Mike, the 2 on the left look like the originals to me. Originals had the cast chamfer in the holes. You probably should also check your pushrods as well. The cup end is 3/8 but the ball end is 11/32 on the originals who knows what the aftermarket cam followers will be! Regards Larry Varley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 3 16:46:56 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 22:46:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1095797053.636178.1588546016368@mail.yahoo.com> OK, to further muddy the water up.? I measured the diameter and overall length of two different tappets according to the original service manual. (reprint)? The diameter is spot on for both tappets.? The follower with the four holes has the correct overall length.? The three hole tappet is taller, but the bottom of the pocket where the pushrod seats is recessed further in? matching the height of the four hole tappet seat.? So now they both will work?? If that is the case I'm leaning toward the four hole version for two reasons.? One, it has the correct overall length.? Two, oil will flow back out the tappet back to the pan better.? Less weight going up and down too.? Am I going in the right direction here?? Anyone have the dimensions for the 6 cylinder tappets? Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 2:10:10 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike,???Yeah, don't know what to say. I have this style in my car, all eight of them. Are they correct? Who knows? As much of the work done to this car before I got it, I have no idea is they are correct or not. I'm going to use them as they are all the same and the car did run with them, so once I'm finished, I'll see if it still runs and hopefully, runs better than it did.???Again, good luck~Steven?? On May 3, 2020 at 11:12 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I don't want to argue the point, but on the Moss website the difference between the two lifters serves to confuse me even further.? The two pictures below are from the Moss website.? The lifter with what appears to be three holes is the illustration they give for the 100-4 tappet.? The other picture with the lifter with eight holes is the illustration they give for the six cylinder car.Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 10:33:13 AM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike,???I just happen to have the head off of my car and all of my lifters are the same. Looks like you have two the same as my eight. I measured the height, 3 1/8" (maybe a smidge either way), 1" in diameter at the base, 1/2" outer diameter of the cup holding the pushrod and 2 3/4" from the base of the lifter to that same cup. Eight holes in each lifter and all recessed same as your two.???Not sure what else to tell you other than I am finding all kinds of things wrong with the previous work compared to my shop manual and I'm not even a mechanic! It just proves to me that these engines want to run! No matter what folks do to their inards!????Good luck and hope this helps.Steven KingsburyBN1 in progress That parallax view of the camera lens makes the measurement look off, but it's 3 1/8". Good luck!! On May 2, 2020 at 10:30 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 3 16:54:48 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 18:54:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <1095797053.636178.1588546016368@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1095797053.636178.1588546016368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 6 cylinder tappets 0.937 inch diameter 2.548 inch length Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 6:47 PM To: Steven Kingsbury; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant OK, to further muddy the water up.? I measured the diameter and overall length of two different tappets according to the original service manual. (reprint)? The diameter is spot on for both tappets.? The follower with the four holes has the correct overall length.? The three hole tappet is taller, but the bottom of the pocket where the pushrod seats is recessed further in? matching the height of the four hole tappet seat.? So now they both will work?? If that is the case I'm leaning toward the four hole version for two reasons.? One, it has the correct overall length.? Two, oil will flow back out the tappet back to the pan better.? Less weight going up and down too.? Am I going in the right direction here?? Anyone have the dimensions for the 6 cylinder tappets? Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 2:10:10 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike, ???Yeah, don't know what to say. I have this style in my car, all eight of them. Are they correct? Who knows? As much of the work done to this car before I got it, I have no idea is they are correct or not. I'm going to use them as they are all the same and the car did run with them, so once I'm finished, I'll see if it still runs and hopefully, runs better than it did. ???Again, good luck~ Steven?? On May 3, 2020 at 11:12 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I don't want to argue the point, but on the Moss website the difference between the two lifters serves to confuse me even further.? The two pictures below are from the Moss website.? The lifter with what appears to be three holes is the illustration they give for the 100-4 tappet.? The other picture with the lifter with eight holes is the illustration they give for the six cylinder car. Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 10:33:13 AM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike, ???I just happen to have the head off of my car and all of my lifters are the same. Looks like you have two the same as my eight. I measured the height, 3 1/8" (maybe a smidge either way), 1" in diameter at the base, 1/2" outer diameter of the cup holding the pushrod and 2 3/4" from the base of the lifter to that same cup. Eight holes in each lifter and all recessed same as your two. ???Not sure what else to tell you other than I am finding all kinds of things wrong with the previous work compared to my shop manual and I'm not even a mechanic! It just proves to me that these engines want to run! No matter what folks do to their inards!? ???Good luck and hope this helps. Steven Kingsbury BN1 in progress That parallax view of the camera lens makes the measurement look off, but it's 3 1/8". Good luck!! On May 2, 2020 at 10:30 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 3 16:54:48 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 18:54:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <1095797053.636178.1588546016368@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1095797053.636178.1588546016368@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 6 cylinder tappets 0.937 inch diameter 2.548 inch length Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 6:47 PM To: Steven Kingsbury; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant OK, to further muddy the water up.? I measured the diameter and overall length of two different tappets according to the original service manual. (reprint)? The diameter is spot on for both tappets.? The follower with the four holes has the correct overall length.? The three hole tappet is taller, but the bottom of the pocket where the pushrod seats is recessed further in? matching the height of the four hole tappet seat.? So now they both will work?? If that is the case I'm leaning toward the four hole version for two reasons.? One, it has the correct overall length.? Two, oil will flow back out the tappet back to the pan better.? Less weight going up and down too.? Am I going in the right direction here?? Anyone have the dimensions for the 6 cylinder tappets? Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 2:10:10 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike, ???Yeah, don't know what to say. I have this style in my car, all eight of them. Are they correct? Who knows? As much of the work done to this car before I got it, I have no idea is they are correct or not. I'm going to use them as they are all the same and the car did run with them, so once I'm finished, I'll see if it still runs and hopefully, runs better than it did. ???Again, good luck~ Steven?? On May 3, 2020 at 11:12 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I don't want to argue the point, but on the Moss website the difference between the two lifters serves to confuse me even further.? The two pictures below are from the Moss website.? The lifter with what appears to be three holes is the illustration they give for the 100-4 tappet.? The other picture with the lifter with eight holes is the illustration they give for the six cylinder car. Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 10:33:13 AM PDT, Steven Kingsbury wrote: Mike, ???I just happen to have the head off of my car and all of my lifters are the same. Looks like you have two the same as my eight. I measured the height, 3 1/8" (maybe a smidge either way), 1" in diameter at the base, 1/2" outer diameter of the cup holding the pushrod and 2 3/4" from the base of the lifter to that same cup. Eight holes in each lifter and all recessed same as your two. ???Not sure what else to tell you other than I am finding all kinds of things wrong with the previous work compared to my shop manual and I'm not even a mechanic! It just proves to me that these engines want to run! No matter what folks do to their inards!? ???Good luck and hope this helps. Steven Kingsbury BN1 in progress That parallax view of the camera lens makes the measurement look off, but it's 3 1/8". Good luck!! On May 2, 2020 at 10:30 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Here's today's Healey 100 rant.? As you can see in the picture of the eight lifters, two are not the same as the rest.? I bought these several years ago from Vicky Brit and they all had the same part number, but they are not the same.? Two of them have eight holes in the body.? The rest have three holes.? The two that are different are almost an eighth of an inch shorter than the other six.? That can't be good.? These are the things I run into that slows progress on this engine.? I suspect the two different ones are for a different application.? Can someone tell me what the correct overall height of a 100-4 cam follower is?? For all I know I might only have two correct lifters. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 3 17:51:40 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 23:51:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <011d01d6219b$1113b500$333b1f00$@cosmos.net.au> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> <011d01d6219b$1113b500$333b1f00$@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <485071565.651608.1588549900886@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Larry.? Now I have to find 7 correct tappets.? I found a chip in the bottom edge of one of the correct tappets.? Also the cup end of the 8 hole tappet is 3/8" diameter.? The 3 hole tappet cup diameter is smaller.? Glad I asked questions.? Love this list. Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 3, 2020, 3:55:09 PM PDT, Larry Varley wrote: #yiv7407139404 #yiv7407139404 -- _filtered {}#yiv7407139404 #yiv7407139404 p.yiv7407139404MsoNormal, #yiv7407139404 li.yiv7407139404MsoNormal, #yiv7407139404 div.yiv7407139404MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7407139404 a:link, #yiv7407139404 span.yiv7407139404MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7407139404 a:visited, #yiv7407139404 span.yiv7407139404MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7407139404 span.yiv7407139404EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv7407139404 .yiv7407139404MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv7407139404 div.yiv7407139404WordSection1 {}#yiv7407139404 Hi Mike, the 2 on the left look like the originals to me. Originals had the cast chamfer in the holes. You probably should also check your pushrods as well. The cup end is 3/8 but the ball end is 11/32 on the originals who knows what the aftermarket cam followers will be! Regards Larry Varley ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun May 3 22:43:32 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 16:43:32 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate - Water Gallery - but wait, there's more Message-ID: <000201d621ce$92055190$b60ff4b0$@xtra.co.nz> Something for the originality and concours folk . . . Recently I was cleaning up and detailing my spare 100 BN1 engine ? 1B 221589M Although my Hundred is a June 1956 BN2 it has been a reliable donor on several occasions. Although I?ve had an aluminium alloy blanking plate on the shelf for many years I decided to remove the plate off the spare and give it a clean-up. To the best of my knowledge this is the first time it has ever been removed ? and I?ve owned this engine since 1975. To my surprise, it is cast iron, and in good shape. Like the alloy one it has the part number cast inside, but also with the number 150 faintly stamped below the part number. The alloy one has the maker?s name inside a diamond device ? BIRMAL, who made high-quality castings for the auto industry and aviation. We know them mainly as the manufacturer of Birmabright, noted for its resistance to corrosion. Cheers Mark Donaldson From: Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, 22 April 2020 1:18 a.m. To: Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate - Water Gallery Concern for originality has been suspended until there is more widespread Concours testing. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 9:06 PM Perry via Healeys > wrote: Listers I know originality can be important on occasion but making a 5/16 thick steel blanking plate to repair a corroded aluminum original is a 20 minute job including cutting a gasket from some gasket material. Moss is asking $57 for the part when their open. Gasket is not available from them. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 212835 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Mon May 4 02:58:03 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 09:58:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Night Rant In-Reply-To: <011d01d6219b$1113b500$333b1f00$@cosmos.net.au> References: <637396526.383885.1588479216195.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <637396526.383885.1588479216195@mail.yahoo.com> <011d01d6219b$1113b500$333b1f00$@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: For those who are interested, the later version of our BN1 and BN2 engines: for example the 2.2 litre and the 2.5 litre petrol, had much thinner push rods with different tappets Regards On Sun, 3 May 2020 at 23:35, Larry Varley wrote: > Hi Mike, the 2 on the left look like the originals to me. Originals had > the cast chamfer in the holes. You probably should also check your pushrods > as well. The cup end is 3/8 but the ball end is 11/32 on the originals who > knows what the aftermarket cam followers will be! > > Regards > > Larry Varley > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Mon May 4 18:23:59 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 20:23:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals for my BN1. Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon May 4 18:37:19 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 20:37:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > for my BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Mon May 4 19:42:53 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 18:42:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Rhode Island Wiring. On Mon, May 4, 2020, 5:40 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. > > > http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm > > > http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > > for my BN1. Thanks. > > > > Regards, > > > > Charlie > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ** > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 4 20:54:11 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 02:54:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues References: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> OK, from a well known Healey restorer I was told even though two of the lifters are original style and the other six are aftermarket, as long as the pushrod sits at the same hieght,? just use all of them.? I can understand that, but look at the picture.? The aftermarket lifter is the top one.? The pushrod seat of the lifters are different.? The original style seat is almost as wide as the inner diameter of the top of the lifter.? The aftermarket seat has an outer ledge that reduces the diameter of the seat.? I tried fitting a pushrod in each lifter.? The fit was perfect and back and forth movement was smooth in the original style lifter.? The fit in the aftermarket lifter was not so good.? The lifter squeeked when rocked back and forth.? I am not sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is fitting all the way down for full contact in the aftermarket lifter socket .? This just gets better and better.? Trying not to give this motor a reason to grenade on startup.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200504_182745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2199654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 4 22:37:26 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 May 2020 21:37:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: <001901d6214c$187b1940$49714bc0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> <001901d6214c$187b1940$49714bc0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Nope.? Not gonna let this one die: http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue May 5 02:03:46 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 04:03:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. In-Reply-To: References: <1954652828.323378.1588354221338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1954652828.323378.1588354221338@mail.yahoo.com> <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com> <005f01d62124$3ce13620$b6a3a260$@tpg.com.au> <001901d6214c$187b1940$49714bc0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <093701d622b3$b4a85770$1df90650$@gmail.com> Great article. When was it published as there have been changes to oils in the past 10 years according to the API. The new API rating is SN Plus for conventional oils which supersedes the old standard SN and SM. Nevertheless the minimum requirement for ZDDP in all motor oils has been and continues to be approximately 800 ppm. As the Mass article says, that is all we need, 800 PPM or 0.08% Now look at the following from the Mopar Car Organization in 2013: We recently analyzed nine motor oils using neutron activation analysis (NAA) to determine ZDDP content. Typically, ZDDP content is determined using a method called inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy, which usually results in much higher uncertainties than NAA (our uncertainties were all below 2%). We may publish the data in an academic journal after some more tests are run (using different methods), so I'm not going to post the exact concentrations just yet. However, the oils are listed here in order from highest to lowest concentrations and a range of ppm is given. All oils tested were 10W30, except for the Comp Cams additive, which didn't specify a weight. Here are the results: Comp Cams additive: 9500-9600 ppm Brad Penn: 1600-1700 ppm Valvoline VR1: 1200-1300 ppm Rotella T: 1200-1300 ppm Red Line: 1100-1200 ppm Royal Purple: 800-900 ppm Lucas: 800-900 ppm Valvoline: 700-800 ppm SuperTech (Walmart): 600-700 ppm As you can see the conventional oil levels of ZDDP are in the 800 ppm range which seems to be the minimum required for our flat tappet engines, unless your engine has been built for performance. So why spend $$$$ on high performance oil. when conventional oil is satisfactory? You know in the middle ages the priests would get together to debate "how many angels dance on the head of a pin" Just my 2 cents. Love this group. Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 12:37 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. Nope. Not gonna let this one die: http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From healeyguy at aol.com Tue May 5 06:15:27 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:15:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. ?It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Crazy Dash.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80433 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 5 06:29:57 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:29:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: <20200505121542.24F24A0EC7@autox.team.net> References: <20200505121542.24F24A0EC7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Bloody hell, by the time you checked all those you'd be through the fence and halfway across the field!!! M On Tue, May 5, 2020, 8:15 AM Perry via Healeys, wrote: > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > > I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have > motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is > supposedly an MGB. > > > > For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. > > Perry > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Tue May 5 07:47:57 2020 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 09:47:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Message-ID: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue May 5 08:22:00 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 07:22:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> References: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> That?s more gauges that the Luscomb in which I learned to fly! Perry, check out the dash of a Silverstone. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 6:48 AM To: Perry ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Yeah, sure looks like one of the aircraft I used to fly? Just pull back on the steering wheel at about 50-60 and rotate for take off. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 94707597_4004986339541571_4224813016719294464_n.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 113735 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 09:05:09 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:05:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <9D95253A07514377930BE485B17FFF7D@DavidNockHP> We make these battery terminal ends and supply them to Moss, Xks Unlimited, British Wiring and several others. We can supply you with them individually or as a cable assembly. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 6:42 PM To: Bob Haskell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals Rhode Island Wiring. On Mon, May 4, 2020, 5:40 PM Bob Haskell wrote: British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > for my BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 09:05:09 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:05:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <9D95253A07514377930BE485B17FFF7D@DavidNockHP> We make these battery terminal ends and supply them to Moss, Xks Unlimited, British Wiring and several others. We can supply you with them individually or as a cable assembly. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 6:42 PM To: Bob Haskell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals Rhode Island Wiring. On Mon, May 4, 2020, 5:40 PM Bob Haskell wrote: British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > for my BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 09:08:30 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:08:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/store/product.php?product_id=220&backtoshop_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishcarspecialists.com%2Fstore%2Findex.php%3Fcategory%3DELECTRICAL%26subcategory%3DBATTERY%26s%3D%26page%3D1 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 6:42 PM To: Bob Haskell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals Rhode Island Wiring. On Mon, May 4, 2020, 5:40 PM Bob Haskell wrote: British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > for my BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 09:08:30 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 08:08:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/store/product.php?product_id=220&backtoshop_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishcarspecialists.com%2Fstore%2Findex.php%3Fcategory%3DELECTRICAL%26subcategory%3DBATTERY%26s%3D%26page%3D1 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Monday, May 04, 2020 6:42 PM To: Bob Haskell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals Rhode Island Wiring. On Mon, May 4, 2020, 5:40 PM Bob Haskell wrote: British Wiring for one - part numbers C991 & C992. http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm http://www.britishwiring.com/Negative-Helmet-Type-Battery-Terminal-37-16-p/c991.htm Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/4/20 8:23 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > Can someone please tell me where I can get the helmet battery terminals > for my BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 5 11:45:31 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 17:45:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup.? I'm just wondering how to attach the battery cable to them.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 5 12:31:25 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 14:31:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike, Lead melts at a slightly higher temperature than solder. Insert the cable into the helmet then heat VERY GENTLY until the solder melts into the cavity. DO NOT OVERHEAT!! M On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 1:45 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup. I'm just wondering > how to attach the battery cable to them. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue May 5 12:43:03 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 11:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you have the ones we are making they are made of silcon bronze unlike the original ones that were made of lead. We did this because the lead ones and the solder melt at almost the same temperature which made attaching the lead terminal ends very difficult. The ones we are making are bronze that way you can heat them up with a low heat torch and melt the solder into the terminal. First tin the cable end the melt solder into the terminal end, when the terminal end is full of liquid solder you can insert the cable end and let cool David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 10:45 AM To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup. I'm just wondering how to attach the battery cable to them. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue May 5 13:15:00 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 19:15:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues In-Reply-To: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> References: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Instead of messing around with a bunch of mismatched stuff I recommend buying new lifters from Denis Welch. I've forgotten what they cost (so it can't have been too much) and they are drilled and relieved to increase oil flow to the cam lobes and reduce oil retention in the lifter. If you are installing a fresh cam then used lifters are a bad investment. YMMV. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 2:54 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues OK, from a well known Healey restorer I was told even though two of the lifters are original style and the other six are aftermarket, as long as the pushrod sits at the same hieght, just use all of them. I can understand that, but look at the picture. The aftermarket lifter is the top one. The pushrod seat of the lifters are different. The original style seat is almost as wide as the inner diameter of the top of the lifter. The aftermarket seat has an outer ledge that reduces the diameter of the seat. I tried fitting a pushrod in each lifter. The fit was perfect and back and forth movement was smooth in the original style lifter. The fit in the aftermarket lifter was not so good. The lifter squeeked when rocked back and forth. I am not sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is fitting all the way down for full contact in the aftermarket lifter socket [cid:31112357-8c17-4a10-9504-8f769c646856] . This just gets better and better. Trying not to give this motor a reason to grenade on startup. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200504_182745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2199654 bytes Desc: 20200504_182745.jpg URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue May 5 14:45:07 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 13:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues In-Reply-To: References: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0a5401d6231e$11bcdf70$35369e50$@roadrunner.com> I went with a DWR-1 cam and hollow lifters. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 12:15 PM To: Healeys ; rrengineer.mike at att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues Instead of messing around with a bunch of mismatched stuff I recommend buying new lifters from Denis Welch. I've forgotten what they cost (so it can't have been too much) and they are drilled and relieved to increase oil flow to the cam lobes and reduce oil retention in the lifter. If you are installing a fresh cam then used lifters are a bad investment. YMMV. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Michael MacLean > Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 2:54 AM To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues OK, from a well known Healey restorer I was told even though two of the lifters are original style and the other six are aftermarket, as long as the pushrod sits at the same hieght, just use all of them. I can understand that, but look at the picture. The aftermarket lifter is the top one. The pushrod seat of the lifters are different. The original style seat is almost as wide as the inner diameter of the top of the lifter. The aftermarket seat has an outer ledge that reduces the diameter of the seat. I tried fitting a pushrod in each lifter. The fit was perfect and back and forth movement was smooth in the original style lifter. The fit in the aftermarket lifter was not so good. The lifter squeeked when rocked back and forth. I am not sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is fitting all the way down for full contact in the aftermarket lifter socket . This just gets better and better. Trying not to give this motor a reason to grenade on startup. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2199654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 5 14:56:44 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 20:56:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues In-Reply-To: References: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1348344191.1828041.1588712204937@mail.yahoo.com> I bought a set of the Welch lifters online last night.? Time to stop screwing around with this one thing.? $135 including shipping.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 12:15:11 PM PDT, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: #yiv6612402566 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Instead of messing around with a bunch of mismatched stuff I recommend buying new lifters from Denis Welch. I've forgotten what they cost (so it can't have been too much) and they are drilled and relieved to increase oil flow to the cam lobes and reduce oil retention in the lifter. If you are installing a fresh cam then used lifters are a bad investment. YMMV. Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 2:54 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues?OK, from a well known Healey restorer I was told even though two of the lifters are original style and the other six are aftermarket, as long as the pushrod sits at the same hieght,? just use all of them.? I can understand that, but look at the picture.? The aftermarket lifter is the top one.? The pushrod seat of the lifters are different.? The original style seat is almost as wide as the inner diameter of the top of the lifter.? The aftermarket seat has an outer ledge that reduces the diameter of the seat.? I tried fitting a pushrod in each lifter.? The fit was perfect and back and forth movement was smooth in the original style lifter.? The fit in the aftermarket lifter was not so good.? The lifter squeeked when rocked back and forth.? I am not sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is fitting all the way down for full contact in the aftermarket lifter socket .? This just gets better and better.? Trying not to give this motor a reason to grenade on startup.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200504_182745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2199654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 5 15:07:31 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 21:07:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1618844731.1828142.1588712851075@mail.yahoo.com> That would be great Dave, but I have the lead heads.? Let me melt these first before I come back to you for the Bronze ones.Mike On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 11:43:09 AM PDT, David Nock wrote: If you have the ones we are making they are made of silcon bronze unlike the original ones that were made of lead. We did this because the lead ones and the solder melt at almost the same temperature which made attaching the lead terminal ends very difficult.?The ones we are making are bronze that way you can heat them up with a low heat torch and melt the solder into the terminal. First tin the cable end the melt solder into the terminal end, when the terminal end is full of liquid solder you can insert the cable end and let cool???David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org ?From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 10:45 AMTo: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals?I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup.? I'm just wondering how to attach the battery cable to them. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 5 15:18:15 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 21:18:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> References: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <751731447.1824100.1588713496000@mail.yahoo.com> I was a flight engineer on C141 cargo aircraft for 23 years.? That jet had four engines and I did not have that many gauges to watch.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 7:31:35 AM PDT, Bruce Steele wrote: #yiv2358047871 #yiv2358047871 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2358047871 #yiv2358047871 p.yiv2358047871MsoNormal, #yiv2358047871 li.yiv2358047871MsoNormal, #yiv2358047871 div.yiv2358047871MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2358047871 a:link, #yiv2358047871 span.yiv2358047871MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2358047871 a:visited, #yiv2358047871 span.yiv2358047871MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2358047871 span.yiv2358047871EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv2358047871 .yiv2358047871MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv2358047871 div.yiv2358047871WordSection1 {}#yiv2358047871 That?s more gauges that the Luscomb in which I learned to fly!? ? Perry, check out the dash of a Silverstone. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 6:48 AM To: Perry ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges ? Yeah, sure looks like one of the aircraft I used to fly? Just pull back on the steering wheel at about 50-60 and rotate for take off. ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? ? I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. ?It is supposedly an MGB. ? For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry ? ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 16:05:33 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 15:05:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: <1618844731.1828142.1588712851075@mail.yahoo.com> References: <418300149.3635705.1588638239365.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> <1618844731.1828142.1588712851075@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Good Luck David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 2:07 PM To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys ; David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals That would be great Dave, but I have the lead heads. Let me melt these first before I come back to you for the Bronze ones. Mike On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 11:43:09 AM PDT, David Nock wrote: If you have the ones we are making they are made of silcon bronze unlike the original ones that were made of lead. We did this because the lead ones and the solder melt at almost the same temperature which made attaching the lead terminal ends very difficult. The ones we are making are bronze that way you can heat them up with a low heat torch and melt the solder into the terminal. First tin the cable end the melt solder into the terminal end, when the terminal end is full of liquid solder you can insert the cable end and let cool David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 10:45 AM To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup. I'm just wondering how to attach the battery cable to them. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Tue May 5 16:55:32 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 18:55:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals In-Reply-To: References: <1340031221.1683359.1588700731177@mail.yahoo.com> <1618844731.1828142.1588712851075@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1506497009.549389.1588719332544.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Rhode Island Wiring has them in lead and can also make up all of the cables. I ordered two complete sets of cables, one for my BN1 and the other for my XK120 that is undergoing a concours restoration. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Nock BCS" To: "Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" , "David Nock" Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 5:05:33 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals Good Luck David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 2:07 PM To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys ; David Nock Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals That would be great Dave, but I have the lead heads. Let me melt these first before I come back to you for the Bronze ones. Mike On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 11:43:09 AM PDT, David Nock wrote: If you have the ones we are making they are made of silcon bronze unlike the original ones that were made of lead. We did this because the lead ones and the solder melt at almost the same temperature which made attaching the lead terminal ends very difficult. The ones we are making are bronze that way you can heat them up with a low heat torch and melt the solder into the terminal. First tin the cable end the melt solder into the terminal end, when the terminal end is full of liquid solder you can insert the cable end and let cool David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 10:45 AM To: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Helmet Battery Terminals I have the helmet heads for my two 6V battery setup. I'm just wondering how to attach the battery cable to them. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 8:11 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue May 5 17:00:53 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 16:00:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: <751731447.1824100.1588713496000@mail.yahoo.com> References: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> <751731447.1824100.1588713496000@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0ade01d62331$0918fad0$1b4af070$@roadrunner.com> If you Google ?Corvette with way too many gauges,? guess what comes up! I?d love to see a close up to know what each one is. How many systems can you monitor once you get past mph, rpm, fuel level, fuel pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, transmission oil temp, oil pressure, manifold vacuum??? Altimeter? Inclinometer? Brake fluid pressure? Diff temp? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 2:18 PM To: 'Warren' ; 'Perry' ; healeys at autox.team.net; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges I was a flight engineer on C141 cargo aircraft for 23 years. That jet had four engines and I did not have that many gauges to watch. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 7:31:35 AM PDT, Bruce Steele > wrote: That?s more gauges that the Luscomb in which I learned to fly! Perry, check out the dash of a Silverstone. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 6:48 AM To: Perry >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Yeah, sure looks like one of the aircraft I used to fly? Just pull back on the steering wheel at about 50-60 and rotate for take off. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue May 5 17:09:40 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 23:09:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues In-Reply-To: <1348344191.1828041.1588712204937@mail.yahoo.com> References: <512553847.1357593.1588647251254.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <512553847.1357593.1588647251254@mail.yahoo.com> , <1348344191.1828041.1588712204937@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: A bargain at twice the price... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:56 PM To: Healeys ; WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Subject: Re: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues I bought a set of the Welch lifters online last night. Time to stop screwing around with this one thing. $135 including shipping. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 12:15:11 PM PDT, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: Instead of messing around with a bunch of mismatched stuff I recommend buying new lifters from Denis Welch. I've forgotten what they cost (so it can't have been too much) and they are drilled and relieved to increase oil flow to the cam lobes and reduce oil retention in the lifter. If you are installing a fresh cam then used lifters are a bad investment. YMMV. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 2:54 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Saturday Rant Continues OK, from a well known Healey restorer I was told even though two of the lifters are original style and the other six are aftermarket, as long as the pushrod sits at the same hieght, just use all of them. I can understand that, but look at the picture. The aftermarket lifter is the top one. The pushrod seat of the lifters are different. The original style seat is almost as wide as the inner diameter of the top of the lifter. The aftermarket seat has an outer ledge that reduces the diameter of the seat. I tried fitting a pushrod in each lifter. The fit was perfect and back and forth movement was smooth in the original style lifter. The fit in the aftermarket lifter was not so good. The lifter squeeked when rocked back and forth. I am not sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is fitting all the way down for full contact in the aftermarket lifter socket [cid:Qhc3cBDPRP63XEfxDTsF] . This just gets better and better. Trying not to give this motor a reason to grenade on startup. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200504_182745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2199654 bytes Desc: 20200504_182745.jpg URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue May 5 17:32:13 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 11:32:13 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: References: <20200505121542.24F24A0EC7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <005001d62335$69815210$3c83f630$@xtra.co.nz> Mayday. Mayday. From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, 6 May 2020 12:30 a.m. To: Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Bloody hell, by the time you checked all those you'd be through the fence and halfway across the field!!! M On Tue, May 5, 2020, 8:15 AM Perry via Healeys, > wrote: Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 18:09:03 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 17:09:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges References: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> <751731447.1824100.1588713496000@mail.yahoo.com> <0ade01d62331$0918fad0$1b4af070$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <001e01d6233a$8daed950$a90c8bf0$@sbcglobal.net> Redundancy and a set for the copilot. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 4:01 PM To: 'Michael MacLean' >; 'Warren' >; 'Perry' >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges If you Google ?Corvette with way too many gauges,? guess what comes up! I?d love to see a close up to know what each one is. How many systems can you monitor once you get past mph, rpm, fuel level, fuel pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, transmission oil temp, oil pressure, manifold vacuum??? Altimeter? Inclinometer? Brake fluid pressure? Diff temp? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 2:18 PM To: 'Warren' >; 'Perry' >; healeys at autox.team.net ; Bruce Steele > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges I was a flight engineer on C141 cargo aircraft for 23 years. That jet had four engines and I did not have that many gauges to watch. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 7:31:35 AM PDT, Bruce Steele > wrote: That?s more gauges that the Luscomb in which I learned to fly! Perry, check out the dash of a Silverstone. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 6:48 AM To: Perry >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Yeah, sure looks like one of the aircraft I used to fly? Just pull back on the steering wheel at about 50-60 and rotate for take off. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri May 8 11:26:04 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 10:26:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Headers Message-ID: Howdy all, Hope you are all well. It has been a long time since I removed my exhaust. Is it possible to replce the exhaust manifold with a header and not remove the intake manifold? Ira Erbs Portland,OR 59 BN4 67MGB 65 AH Sprite phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri May 8 20:28:28 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 19:28:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Headers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <89FC26FB99FE45FCABC8AAEC5B888FEC@AllInOne> Ira, I did an extensive look into headers for my 1960 BT7 which is not too different from your 59BN4. This is what I found: The outrigger on the drivers side must be modified to accept larger diameter pipe at a wider centre to centre spacing. BJ8 had this type of outrigger as standard. Possibly the corner of the intake manifold will require machining to clear the header but this may be dependant on the brand of header The existing exhaust system will have to replaced as the headers have a different diameter and spacing. Possibly you could come up with an adapter to fit between the header and the existing exhaust but space is limited. I would be interested if you find a header that dose's require some or all of these modifications. Harold From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, May 08, 2020 10:26 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Headers Howdy all, Hope you are all well. It has been a long time since I removed my exhaust. Is it possible to replce the exhaust manifold with a header and not remove the intake manifold? Ira Erbs Portland,OR 59 BN4 67MGB 65 AH Sprite phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Fri May 8 21:06:29 2020 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 23:06:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?=5BSPAM_Detected=5D__Re=3A__Headers?= In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, on which car? BN4 is doubtful. Don't know about the B or the square body. Depends also on whose headers. I bought DW headers for the BJ8 and on a trial fit I had some relieving on front intake and accelerator shaft bracket. Then the headers were short 4 inches of hooking to the SS Mufflers. I bought SS flex pipes from local auto parts and cut each one to about 6 inches. Probably wise to use the flex any way. If you need a picture I can take some tomorrow. Jim frakes Sent from my iPad > On May 8, 2020, at 1:29 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Howdy all, > Hope you are all well. > It has been a long time since I removed my exhaust. Is it possible to replce the exhaust manifold with a header and not remove the intake manifold? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 59 BN4 > 67MGB > 65 AH Sprite > phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri May 8 21:18:45 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 20:18:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Headers In-Reply-To: <89FC26FB99FE45FCABC8AAEC5B888FEC@AllInOne> References: <89FC26FB99FE45FCABC8AAEC5B888FEC@AllInOne> Message-ID: These came off an existing car. I have a BT7 engine with BJ carbs, intake and exhaust. So these should bolt right up. Thanks Ira Erbs Portland,OR 59 BN4 67MGB 65 AH Sprite phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos On Fri, May 8, 2020, 7:28 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Ira, > > I did an extensive look into headers for my 1960 BT7 which is not too > different from your 59BN4. This is what I found: > > The outrigger on the drivers side must be modified to accept larger > diameter pipe at a wider centre to centre spacing. BJ8 had this type of > outrigger as standard. > Possibly the corner of the intake manifold will require machining to clear > the header but this may be dependant on the brand of header > The existing exhaust system will have to replaced as the headers have a > different diameter and spacing. > > Possibly you could come up with an adapter to fit between the header and > the existing exhaust but space is limited. > > I would be interested if you find a header that dose's require some or all > of these modifications. > > Harold > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Friday, May 08, 2020 10:26 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] Headers > > Howdy all, > Hope you are all well. > It has been a long time since I removed my exhaust. Is it possible to > replce the exhaust manifold with a header and not remove the intake > manifold? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 59 BN4 > 67MGB > 65 AH Sprite > phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri May 8 23:03:55 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 05:03:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Stud References: <1063308309.557848.1589000635878.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1063308309.557848.1589000635878@mail.yahoo.com> This is actually a three part inquiry.? First, what size BSF die do I need to clean up the threads on a 100 water pump stud?? Or, does anyone have a water pump stud in a jar somewhere in your garage?? Two, I have two extended shoulder nuts to mount the water pump with, but which stud do they go on?? Even with the extended nut, the stud closest to the angled tap (left top) does not have enough clearance for a socket.? The two ribs of the water pump body at the bottom stud prevent a socket use with a regular nut.? Does anyone else with a four cylinder car pull what's left of their hair out replacing a water pump or am I missing something?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat May 9 04:43:37 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 06:43:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Stud In-Reply-To: <1063308309.557848.1589000635878@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1063308309.557848.1589000635878.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1063308309.557848.1589000635878@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike-- >From memory: Though I think you can get by with just one of the shouldered "special nuts" having two of them makes the R & R easier. The bottom-most stud certainly requires one of these nuts as its location is shrouded by the WP's casting. Even with these nuts you must use an open-ended wrench as there is not room for a socket, Good luck--Michael Oritt On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 1:04 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > This is actually a three part inquiry. First, what size BSF die do I need > to clean up the threads on a 100 water pump stud? Or, does anyone have a > water pump stud in a jar somewhere in your garage? Two, I have two > extended shoulder nuts to mount the water pump with, but which stud do they > go on? Even with the extended nut, the stud closest to the angled tap > (left top) does not have enough clearance for a socket. The two ribs of > the water pump body at the bottom stud prevent a socket use with a regular > nut. Does anyone else with a four cylinder car pull what's left of their > hair out replacing a water pump or am I missing something? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat May 9 07:33:13 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 09:33:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Message-ID: <65f7502a-e396-3ea7-3aae-241411ecece8@earthlink.net> Listers, Anyone know anything about this car? https://www.undiscoveredclassics.com/sport-customs/1954-custom-bodied-austin-healey/ Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From gradea1 at charter.net Sat May 9 11:07:33 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 09 May 2020 17:07:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Message-ID: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail> I'm not convinced that it is the same car as pictured in the wreck. There is a foreign licence plate in the original photo, and a US plate in the wrecked photo. The modification car has not one British part on it except maybe the wire wheels (chassis)...never a white steering wheel, and windshield from an Alfa? I don't think you could do away with the Healey 100 sub-structure and come up with a lower, swoopy design unless you cut off everything but the chassis rails...even by a bus builder it seems far fetched. Of course, you could have done this (photo), and added that spiffy dash panel and a 350 crate engine. Now that a real Healey mod. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Haskell" To: "Healey List" Cc: Sent: Saturday May 9 2020 6:33:45AM Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Listers, Anyone know anything about this car? Healeys at autox.team.net Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation __DOLLAR_SYMBOL__12.75 Archive: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 58dbed774a3e6_Glen-Echo-4-18-16-215-e1491271755590-940x671.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120506 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Crazy Dash.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80433 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 5 17:11:11 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 16:11:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges In-Reply-To: <0ade01d62331$0918fad0$1b4af070$@roadrunner.com> References: <5eb16e90.1c69fb81.eba26.96cb@mx.google.com> <07bd01d622e8$8ca3cb30$a5eb6190$@roadrunner.com> <751731447.1824100.1588713496000@mail.yahoo.com> <0ade01d62331$0918fad0$1b4af070$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <000f01d62332$78661020$69323060$@sbcglobal.net> Redundancy and a set for the copilot. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 4:01 PM To: 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Warren' ; 'Perry' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges If you Google ?Corvette with way too many gauges,? guess what comes up! I?d love to see a close up to know what each one is. How many systems can you monitor once you get past mph, rpm, fuel level, fuel pressure, coolant temp, oil temp, transmission oil temp, oil pressure, manifold vacuum??? Altimeter? Inclinometer? Brake fluid pressure? Diff temp? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 2:18 PM To: 'Warren' >; 'Perry' >; healeys at autox.team.net ; Bruce Steele > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges I was a flight engineer on C141 cargo aircraft for 23 years. That jet had four engines and I did not have that many gauges to watch. Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 5, 2020, 7:31:35 AM PDT, Bruce Steele > wrote: That?s more gauges that the Luscomb in which I learned to fly! Perry, check out the dash of a Silverstone. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 6:48 AM To: Perry >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Yeah, sure looks like one of the aircraft I used to fly? Just pull back on the steering wheel at about 50-60 and rotate for take off. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2020 8:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Dash Gauges Sent from Mail for Windows 10 I was looking online for an answer to Bruce?s question about what may have motivated him to add gauges to his ride and cam across this one. It is supposedly an MGB. For you folks that fly or have flown a plane this may strike a nerve?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat May 9 11:42:06 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 13:42:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 In-Reply-To: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail> References: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail> Message-ID: The wrecked 100 and the rebodied car carry the same Italian license plate, 17-A-011. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 1:09 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 I'm not convinced that it is the same car as pictured in the wreck.? There is a foreign licence plate in the original photo, and a US plate in the wrecked photo. The modification car has not one British part on it except maybe the wire wheels (chassis)...never a white steering wheel, and windshield from an Alfa? I don't think you could do away with the Healey 100 sub-structure and come up with a lower, swoopy design unless you cut off everything but the chassis rails...even by a bus builder it seems far fetched. Of course, you could have done this (photo), and added that spiffy dash panel and a 350 crate engine.? Now that a real Healey mod. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Haskell" To: "Healey List" Cc: Sent: Saturday May 9 2020 6:33:45AM Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Listers, Anyone know anything about this car? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat May 9 11:42:06 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 13:42:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 In-Reply-To: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail> References: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail> Message-ID: The wrecked 100 and the rebodied car carry the same Italian license plate, 17-A-011. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 1:09 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 I'm not convinced that it is the same car as pictured in the wreck.? There is a foreign licence plate in the original photo, and a US plate in the wrecked photo. The modification car has not one British part on it except maybe the wire wheels (chassis)...never a white steering wheel, and windshield from an Alfa? I don't think you could do away with the Healey 100 sub-structure and come up with a lower, swoopy design unless you cut off everything but the chassis rails...even by a bus builder it seems far fetched. Of course, you could have done this (photo), and added that spiffy dash panel and a 350 crate engine.? Now that a real Healey mod. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Haskell" To: "Healey List" Cc: Sent: Saturday May 9 2020 6:33:45AM Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Listers, Anyone know anything about this car? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey53 at gmail.com Sat May 9 11:56:34 2020 From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 13:56:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Block Message-ID: A shop in Vermont who works on one of my other cars is looking for a lead on a good 100 block. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Joe BN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 "the Blue Baby" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sat May 9 12:24:31 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 12:24:31 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;}'67 BJ8 with recently rebuilt engine and cast alloy oil pan by PO.7 Qts VR1shows marginally above top dip stick mark. Oil coolerNormal running and idle OP is fine Would welcome comments from more experienced listers.When oil is really hot - after a run after and after moderate hard braking (not panic stop) OP falls to zero for about 2-3 secs before recovering to normal - around 48 psi. Not noticed when oil is cold. My thoughts: Are there differences in the length of the pump input strainer assembly ? Maybe should be using more oil with the extra oil cooler volume ? Maybe this dip stick is incorrect for this type of sump ? This is bad for my BP - particularly when watching zero on gauge and waiting for it to pick up !! Thank you rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat May 9 12:25:12 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 18:25:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 In-Reply-To: <20200509174237.EC0B8A1360@autox.team.net> References: <4170146a7119f55fee57e5fad53f5910b309e7f7@webmail>, <20200509174237.EC0B8A1360@autox.team.net> Message-ID: It appears that the rebodied car has the same type of windshield as a Jaguar XK-SS, very similar front bumper pieces and taillights that come from some period Jaguar model. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry via Healeys Sent: May 9, 2020 12:42 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Bob Haskell' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 The wrecked 100 and the rebodied car carry the same Italian license plate, 17-A-011. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 1:09 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 I'm not convinced that it is the same car as pictured in the wreck. There is a foreign licence plate in the original photo, and a US plate in the wrecked photo. The modification car has not one British part on it except maybe the wire wheels (chassis)...never a white steering wheel, and windshield from an Alfa? I don't think you could do away with the Healey 100 sub-structure and come up with a lower, swoopy design unless you cut off everything but the chassis rails...even by a bus builder it seems far fetched. Of course, you could have done this (photo), and added that spiffy dash panel and a 350 crate engine. Now that a real Healey mod. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Haskell" To: "Healey List" Cc: Sent: Saturday May 9 2020 6:33:45AM Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 Listers, Anyone know anything about this car? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 9 13:39:50 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 21:39:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Any baffles in the sump? The oil is probably slushing around when braking hard. If the dipstick is the original do not raise the oil level. Adhere to max because if the level is too high frothing of the oil may occur resulting in loss of oil pressure. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-5-2020 om 20:24 schreef Roger Grace: > > > '67 BJ8 with recently rebuilt engine and cast alloy oil pan by PO. > 7 Qts VR1shows marginally above top dip stick mark. > Oil cooler > Normal running and idle OP is fine > > Would welcome comments from more experienced listers. > When oil is really hot - after a run after and after moderate hard > braking (not panic stop) OP falls to zero for about 2-3 secs before > recovering to normal - around 48 psi. Not noticed when oil is cold. > > My thoughts: > > Are there differences in the length of the pump input strainer assembly ? > > Maybe should be using more oil with the extra oil cooler volume ? > Maybe this dip stick is incorrect for this type of sump ? > > This is bad for my BP - particularly when watching zero on gauge and > waiting for it to pick up !! > > Thank you > rg > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat May 9 13:46:47 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 15:46:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Hi Roger, before panicking too much about your short lived zero pressure issue read through this article that I wrote about 14 years ago regarding oil pressure issues; it may set your mind at ease. https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2006/11/30/why-im-raising-the-suspension-and-fitting-a-sump-guard/ M On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 2:24 PM Roger Grace wrote: > > > '67 BJ8 with recently rebuilt engine and cast alloy oil pan by PO. > 7 Qts VR1shows marginally above top dip stick mark. > Oil cooler > Normal running and idle OP is fine > > Would welcome comments from more experienced listers. > When oil is really hot - after a run after and after moderate hard braking > (not panic stop) OP falls to zero for about 2-3 secs before recovering to > normal - around 48 psi. Not noticed when oil is cold. > > My thoughts: > > Are there differences in the length of the pump input strainer assembly ? > > Maybe should be using more oil with the extra oil cooler volume ? Maybe > this dip stick is incorrect for this type of sump ? > > This is bad for my BP - particularly when watching zero on gauge and > waiting for it to pick up !! > > Thank you > rg > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 9 15:14:09 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 21:14:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat May 9 17:49:48 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 19:49:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis fasteners. Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Sat May 9 18:16:39 2020 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 18:16:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! Message-ID: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is of the mounts that have been on the car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. Cheers Ross -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Presentation1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144766 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 9 18:47:34 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 00:47:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! In-Reply-To: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> References: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <330765928.831047.1589071654961@mail.yahoo.com> Is there a right hand and a left hand version?Mike MacLean On Saturday, May 9, 2020, 5:20:39 PM PDT, Ross Maylor wrote: BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is? of the mounts that have been on the car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. ? Cheers Ross _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Sat May 9 19:01:54 2020 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 19:01:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! In-Reply-To: <330765928.831047.1589071654961@mail.yahoo.com> References: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> <330765928.831047.1589071654961@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b401d62666$998a0f90$cc9e2eb0$@shaw.ca> No one part number for both. From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: May 9, 2020 6:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Ross Maylor Subject: Re: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! Is there a right hand and a left hand version? Mike MacLean On Saturday, May 9, 2020, 5:20:39 PM PDT, Ross Maylor > wrote: BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is of the mounts that have been on the car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. Cheers Ross _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat May 9 20:29:56 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 02:29:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! In-Reply-To: <00b401d62666$998a0f90$cc9e2eb0$@shaw.ca> References: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> <330765928.831047.1589071654961@mail.yahoo.com>, <00b401d62666$998a0f90$cc9e2eb0$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: I would vote for crap parts. Where did you get them? Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ross Maylor Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 1:01 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! No one part number for both. From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: May 9, 2020 6:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Ross Maylor Subject: Re: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! Is there a right hand and a left hand version? Mike MacLean On Saturday, May 9, 2020, 5:20:39 PM PDT, Ross Maylor > wrote: BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is of the mounts that have been on the car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. Cheers Ross _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sat May 9 21:01:22 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 03:01:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! Message-ID: <5ac3a0d8-a4ba-41eb-aad0-bd3a3d3b87b0@me.com> Yikes! I'm no expert, but I do think this is not good. And how do you compress steel? My vote is also, crap parts. Steven Kingsbury On May 9, 2020 at 5:20 PM, "Ross Maylor" wrote: BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is? of the mounts that have been on the car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. ? Cheers Ross _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 9 22:52:12 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 04:52:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat May 9 23:31:21 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 22:31:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III In-Reply-To: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005201d6268c$3db94fc0$b92bef40$@sbcglobal.net> Don?t worry about it. After you drive the car they will tighten up so much you will be asking what size hammer is needed to remove them. Hahaha John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 9:52 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Sun May 10 04:25:15 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:25:15 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] One of these things is not like the other! In-Reply-To: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> References: <007901d62660$47a17d90$d6e478b0$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: Ross The smaller top units are fitted to absorb rotational action when the engine tries to rotate during acceleration or de-acceleration in gear. There is a clearance measurement to be set up by adding or removing shims in the workshop manual. I presume that the designers thought this necessary to contain the engine and gearbox from rotating too far. With so many pipes and cables needing to flex if the engine move too far it might cause damage. Best regards On Sun, 10 May 2020 at 01:19, Ross Maylor wrote: > BN6 Motor mounts. The left picture is of the mounts that have been on the > car since 1990. The right picture are the newly purchased mounts. Before > you say spin them or turn them around there are small nubbins that line up > with holes in the mount frame and preclude this. As well the bolts did not > line up and required some modification to fit. Am I to expect them to get > compressed into shape or is this another example of crap parts. > > > > Cheers > > Ross > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun May 10 06:40:10 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 12:40:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III In-Reply-To: <005201d6268c$3db94fc0$b92bef40$@sbcglobal.net> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <005201d6268c$3db94fc0$b92bef40$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1243291424.926544.1589114410475@mail.yahoo.com> If the wheel is wobbling in the Knock off something is definitely wrong. I would not drive it a? hope that it tightened up.?Are the splined hubs & knockoffs new? I have heard of the threads on new hubs not being compatible with the threads on new knockoffs. Two different sources/manufacturers. You should be able to tighten the knockoff by hand enough to seat the knockoff on the wheel, no hammering required. Then tighten the knock off with several solid blows of the hammer. This should be done with the weight of the car off the wheel.Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Healeys' Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 12:31 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III #yiv5242722755 #yiv5242722755 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5242722755 #yiv5242722755 p.yiv5242722755MsoNormal, #yiv5242722755 li.yiv5242722755MsoNormal, #yiv5242722755 div.yiv5242722755MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv5242722755 a:link, #yiv5242722755 span.yiv5242722755MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5242722755 a:visited, #yiv5242722755 span.yiv5242722755MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5242722755 span.yiv5242722755EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv5242722755 .yiv5242722755MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv5242722755 div.yiv5242722755WordSection1 {}#yiv5242722755 Don?t worry about it. After you drive the car they will tighten up so much you will be asking what size hammer is needed to remove them. HahahaJohn Spaur ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 9:52 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ?At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 08:09:41 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 10:09:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 Disc Brake Option Message-ID: I'm putting together an article for the Concours Guidelines on the optional 100/6 Dunlop disc brakes. Does anyone by chance happen to have any original published material; brochures, maintenance instructions etc on this very rare option. I would really appreciate a copy. Michael Salter Austin Healey Concours Committee Technical Chairman. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun May 10 09:51:10 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 08:51:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55. If they ever were BSF, it was very early in BN1 production. On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys wrote: > Michael > > There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some > parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations > on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis > fasteners. > > Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the > welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what > was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts > > > > Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads > between the BN1 and the BN2? > > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 09:58:57 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:58:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: The parts book indicates that they are HZS0608 (zinc plated hex head 3/8" diameter 1 1/4" long UNF) with no mention of a change. They are UNF on body #174. M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 11:51 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55. If they ever were BSF, it was > very early in BN1 production. > > On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys > wrote: > >> Michael >> >> There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on >> some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several >> locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to >> chassis fasteners. >> >> Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the >> welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what >> was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. >> >> Perry >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *Michael MacLean >> *Sent: *Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM >> *To: *Healeys >> *Subject: *[Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts >> >> >> >> Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads >> between the BN1 and the BN2? >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 09:59:59 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:59:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 09:59:59 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 11:59:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun May 10 10:05:31 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 09:05:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: It appears that these bolts were ALWAYS UNF. I will check with the owners of body numbers 56 and 62 as they are local to me, and get back to you. On Sun, May 10, 2020, 08:59 Michael Salter wrote: > The parts book indicates that they are HZS0608 (zinc plated hex head 3/8" > diameter 1 1/4" long UNF) with no mention of a change. > They are UNF on body #174. > M > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 11:51 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55. If they ever were BSF, it was >> very early in BN1 production. >> >> On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys >> wrote: >> >>> Michael >>> >>> There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on >>> some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several >>> locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to >>> chassis fasteners. >>> >>> Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the >>> welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what >>> was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. >>> >>> Perry >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> *From: *Michael MacLean >>> *Sent: *Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM >>> *To: *Healeys >>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts >>> >>> >>> >>> Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different >>> threads between the BN1 and the BN2? >>> >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 10:06:48 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 09:06:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <20200510160123.CB95FA0D5A@autox.team.net> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160123.CB95FA0D5A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I've posted this before, but it seems customary to cover the same topics here over and over ;) https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/may-2001/41/r-u-d-g-e-whit-worth-hub On 5/10/2020 8:59 AM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > > Michael et al, > > Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire > wheel hub and the knockoff. > > The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat > in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. > > The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The > tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but > they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. > > What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock > off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact > interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. > You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a > smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the > knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. > > So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, > the knock off is not tight enough. > > Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the > problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the > handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. > > Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III > > At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my > house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat > at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes > with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years > old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the > restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many > off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due > to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my > general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished > mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had > done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without > binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? > Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex > brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake > lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire > wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on > them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After > mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good > whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 > o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, > but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the > hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back > and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit > those knockoffs? > > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 10:08:53 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 12:08:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Correct Perry but at one time there was a combination of hubs, splines and nuts which really didn't work so, when the nut was fully tightened and bottomed out on the thread the wheel wasn't clamped between the inner taper and the taper inside the nut .... a tad frustrating.... M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:01 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Michael et al, > > Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire > wheel hub and the knockoff. > > The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in > the face of the extension. No rotational movement. > > The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The > tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they > have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. > > What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off > forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface > is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the > little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to > stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight > enough there is not movement here either. > > So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the > knock off is not tight enough. > > Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of > owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left > and right) threads that self tighten. > > Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III > > > > At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I > even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive > through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not > wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being > sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a > vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to > be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, > parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. > This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new > parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. > Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial > and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel > flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake > lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. > I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can > move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I > gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of > truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight > back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved > slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the > wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard > are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? > > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Sun May 10 10:28:01 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:28:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Curtis There is another way of how one can get a close idea of what threads are used. All the body parts that were new in the 100 are UNF. However parts that were from Austin vehicles such as the engine, BN1 gearbox and early rear axle stayed at BSF. 'our' 100 engine went with only minor changes to become the 2.2 litre and 2.5 litre petrol engines that continued well into the 1960s. These continued BSF until phased out Best regards On Sun, 10 May 2020 at 16:51, Curtis Arndt wrote: > They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55. If they ever were BSF, it was > very early in BN1 production. > > On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys > wrote: > >> Michael >> >> There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on >> some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several >> locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to >> chassis fasteners. >> >> Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the >> welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what >> was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. >> >> Perry >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *Michael MacLean >> *Sent: *Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM >> *To: *Healeys >> *Subject: *[Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts >> >> >> >> Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads >> between the BN1 and the BN2? >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun May 10 10:44:37 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 10:44:37 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Michael - yes point taken; however your narrative didn't say what those BE journals looked like when you eventually stripped that engine ! My manual says 7.25 litres capacity including the filter.Added another qrt of oil, so I now have 7.6 liters in my engine.Dip stick right on max. graduation markSame story yesterday after a long run with oil at about 175FYes do have an oil cooler but don't think that the cooler oil drains when I drain the pan.My thinking is that the capacity and style of the oil pan or gasket thickness does not matter as long as you fill up to the dip stick marks. The dip stick tube length is the reference that sets the correct internal oil level. Also the marks on the stickI note that there are 2 different sticks referenced in the Moss catalog.Mine is the straight one. So what gives ?Are there perhaps different sticks and tubes out there ?Mine looks stock but you never know ...Or maybe other cars also do this but unnoticed and ignored ....rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Roger Grace Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 09 May 2020 13:46:47 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Hi Roger, before panicking too much about your short lived zero pressure issue read through this article that I wrote about 14 years ago regarding oil pressure issues; it may set your mind at ease.https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2006/11/30/why-im-raising-the-suspension-and-fitting-a-sump-guard/ M On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 2:24 PM Roger Grace wrote: '67 BJ8 with recently rebuilt engine and cast alloy oil pan by PO.7 Qts VR1shows marginally above top dip stick mark. Oil coolerNormal running and idle OP is fine Would welcome comments from more experienced listers.When oil is really hot - after a run after and after moderate hard braking (not panic stop) OP falls to zero for about 2-3 secs before recovering to normal - around 48 psi. Not noticed when oil is cold. My thoughts: Are there differences in the length of the pump input strainer assembly ? Maybe should be using more oil with the extra oil cooler volume ? Maybe this dip stick is incorrect for this type of sump ? This is bad for my BP - particularly when watching zero on gauge and waiting for it to pick up !! Thank you rg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 10:50:28 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 16:50:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> The only reason I asked this question in the first place was because a 3/8" UNF bolt screwed into all eight holes for a few threads and stopped.? Because it was the same in all eight holes I did not want to force it.? So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF.? Certainly simplifies it.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 8:51 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55.? If they ever were BSF, it was very early in BN1 production.? On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis fasteners. Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts ? Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 11:00:59 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:00:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: *"So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF."* I think that may be a stretch Mike ... I know, for example, that the nuts welded into the frame for the battery hold down rods changed from BSF to UNF as C.#156839. I would bet that there are other instances of this. I would always recommend checking your parts book for the correct thread for your car before running a tap through any. M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:50 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > The only reason I asked this question in the first place was because a > 3/8" UNF bolt screwed into all eight holes for a few threads and stopped. > Because it was the same in all eight holes I did not want to force it. So, > now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I > take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF. Certainly simplifies > it. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 8:51 AM, Curtis Arndt > wrote: > They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55. If they ever were BSF, it was > very early in BN1 production. > > On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys > wrote: > > Michael > > There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some > parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations > on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis > fasteners. > > Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the > welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what > was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Saturday, May 9, 2020 5:14 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts > > > > Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads > between the BN1 and the BN2? > > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 11:05:48 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:05:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Good question Roger. Amazingly the crank journals had some oil residue burned onto them which easily polished off. This was a nitrided crank. The shells themselves definitely were also in "do not reuse" condition with burned oil on the surfaces but when checked with "Plastigage" were still within spec. Sure blew me away!! M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:44 PM Roger Grace wrote: > Michael - yes point taken; however your narrative didn't say what those BE > journals looked like when you eventually stripped that engine ! > > My manual says 7.25 litres capacity including the filter. > Added another qrt of oil, so I now have 7.6 liters in my engine. > Dip stick right on max. graduation mark > Same story yesterday after a long run with oil at about 175F > Yes do have an oil cooler but don't think that the cooler oil drains when > I drain the pan. > > My thinking is that the capacity and style of the oil pan or gasket > thickness does not matter as long as you fill up to the dip stick marks. > The dip stick tube length is the reference that sets the correct internal > oil level. Also the marks on the stick > > I note that there are 2 different sticks referenced in the Moss catalog. > Mine is the straight one. > > So what gives ? > Are there perhaps different sticks and tubes out there ? > Mine looks stock but you never know ... > > Or maybe other cars also do this but unnoticed and ignored .... > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Salter > To: Roger Grace > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, 09 May 2020 13:46:47 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure > > Hi Roger, before panicking too much about your short lived zero pressure > issue read through this article that I wrote about 14 years ago regarding > oil pressure issues; it may set your mind at ease. > > https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2006/11/30/why-im-raising-the-suspension-and-fitting-a-sump-guard/ > > M > > > On Sat, May 9, 2020 at 2:24 PM Roger Grace wrote: > >> >> >> >> '67 BJ8 with recently rebuilt engine and cast alloy oil pan by PO. >> 7 Qts VR1shows marginally above top dip stick mark. >> Oil cooler >> Normal running and idle OP is fine >> >> Would welcome comments from more experienced listers. >> When oil is really hot - after a run after and after moderate hard >> braking (not panic stop) OP falls to zero for about 2-3 secs before >> recovering to normal - around 48 psi. Not noticed when oil is cold. >> >> My thoughts: >> >> Are there differences in the length of the pump input strainer assembly ? >> >> Maybe should be using more oil with the extra oil cooler volume ? Maybe >> this dip stick is incorrect for this type of sump ? >> >> This is bad for my BP - particularly when watching zero on gauge and >> waiting for it to pick up !! >> >> Thank you >> rg >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 11:09:33 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 10:09:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Michael, How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)? Bob On 5/10/2020 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Good question Roger. > Amazingly the crank journals had some oil residue burned onto them > which easily polished off. This was a nitrided crank. > The shells themselves definitely were also in "do not reuse" condition > with burned oil on the surfaces but when checked with "Plastigage" > were still within spec. > Sure blew me away!! > > M > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 11:13:04 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:13:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: 100/6 Disc Brake Option In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I first read about this in Bill Piggott's "Austin Healey" book. I have since been researching this and have, with help from Rob Sokolowski, have now got a copy of the original servicing instructions and many photographs of original parts. It seems likely that only 50 sets were produced and that most of the cars with them were sold in the UK. Details will be in the 2021 Concours Guidelines ....reserve you copy now :-) M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 11:32:56 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 13:32:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Message-ID: "How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)?" Another very good question ... Again completely undamaged. After earlier suffering a serious lifter and cam failure in that engine I had taken enormous care to condition them very carefully on initial start up with the replacements and used VR1 non synthetic oil exclusively thereafter. This experience and others have me pretty well convinced that lifter/cam problems are usually initiated on first start up of a new engine and if they get through the first few minutes of running they will last well. BTW I've sold all my holdings in Valvoline ?? M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 1:15 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > Michael, > > How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)? > > Bob > > > On 5/10/2020 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Good question Roger. > Amazingly the crank journals had some oil residue burned onto them which > easily polished off. This was a nitrided crank. > The shells themselves definitely were also in "do not reuse" condition > with burned oil on the surfaces but when checked with "Plastigage" were > still within spec. > Sure blew me away!! > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun May 10 11:39:27 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:39:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Message-ID: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Perry via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 9:01:21AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 FROM: Michael MacLean [2] SENT: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM TO: Healeys [3] SUBJECT: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean Links: ------ [1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 [2] mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net [3] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 11:45:38 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:45:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <843540844.1014987.1589132738015@mail.yahoo.com> OK, I got the message.? First of all because I converted from drum to 3000 disc brakes the hub extensions are different between front and back.? I doubt this makes a difference in mounting the wire wheel.? Late last night I went out to the garage and got out the big lead hammer I bought recently to get the knockoffs loose on my MGB GT.? I beat the Healey knockoffs a lot harder this time.? The wire wheel hub tightened up and showed no movement.? Apparently using a plastic dead blow hammer was not enough.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:09 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Correct Perry but at one time there was a combination of hubs, splines and nuts which really didn't work so, when the nut was fully tightened and bottomed out on the thread the wheel wasn't clamped between the inner taper and the taper inside the nut .... a tad frustrating.... M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:01 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.? Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ? At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 12:41:11 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 14:41:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: OK I got confused on this exchanged. Regarding the UNF threads, my info shows the 3/8 (major diameter) UNF bolt as having 24 threads per inch. The exchange mentioned 20 TPI Perry From: Michael Salter Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts "So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF." I think that may be a stretch Mike ... I know, for example, that the nuts welded into the frame for the battery hold down rods changed from BSF to UNF as C.#156839. I would bet that there are other instances of this. I would always recommend checking your parts book for the correct thread for your car before running a tap through any. M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:50 PM Michael MacLean wrote: The only reason I asked this question in the first place was because a 3/8" UNF bolt screwed into all eight holes for a few threads and stopped.? Because it was the same in all eight holes I did not want to force it.? So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF.? Certainly simplifies it. Mike MacLean On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 8:51 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55.? If they ever were BSF, it was very early in BN1 production.? On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis fasteners. Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. Perry ? From: Michael MacLean ? Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 12:41:11 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 14:41:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: OK I got confused on this exchanged. Regarding the UNF threads, my info shows the 3/8 (major diameter) UNF bolt as having 24 threads per inch. The exchange mentioned 20 TPI Perry From: Michael Salter Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts "So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF." I think that may be a stretch Mike ... I know, for example, that the nuts welded into the frame for the battery hold down rods changed from BSF to UNF as C.#156839. I would bet that there are other instances of this. I would always recommend checking your parts book for the correct thread for your car before running a tap through any. M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:50 PM Michael MacLean wrote: The only reason I asked this question in the first place was because a 3/8" UNF bolt screwed into all eight holes for a few threads and stopped.? Because it was the same in all eight holes I did not want to force it.? So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF.? Certainly simplifies it. Mike MacLean On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 8:51 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55.? If they ever were BSF, it was very early in BN1 production.? On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis fasteners. Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. Perry ? From: Michael MacLean ? Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sneddon at xsmail.com Sun May 10 12:45:09 2020 From: sneddon at xsmail.com (Andy Sneddon) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 19:45:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Message-ID: Michael, Could you elaborate on what steps you take to ? ?condition them very carefully on initial start?.?? As some-one who is approaching first start-up after rebuild, anything I can do to help prolong engine life is of interest. Andy From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Salter Date: Sunday, 10 May 2020 at 18:33 To: Bob Spidell Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure "How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)?" Another very good question ... Again completely undamaged. After earlier suffering a serious lifter and cam failure in that engine I had taken enormous care to condition them very carefully on initial start up with the replacements and used VR1 non synthetic oil exclusively thereafter. This experience and others have me pretty well convinced that lifter/cam problems are usually initiated on first start up of a new engine and if they get through the first few minutes of running they will last well. BTW I've sold all my holdings in Valvoline ?? M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 1:15 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: Michael, How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)? Bob On 5/10/2020 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Good question Roger. Amazingly the crank journals had some oil residue burned onto them which easily polished off. This was a nitrided crank. The shells themselves definitely were also in "do not reuse" condition with burned oil on the surfaces but when checked with "Plastigage" were still within spec. Sure blew me away!! M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon at xsmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 13:04:25 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 19:04:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts In-Reply-To: <202005101841.04AIfJ5K042300@alph733.prodigy.net> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1266449440.1000491.1589129428410@mail.yahoo.com> <202005101841.04AIfJ5K042300@alph733.prodigy.net> Message-ID: <592782174.1038233.1589137465817@mail.yahoo.com> Correct Perry.? I was confusing the fine thread count of a BSF thread to a UNF thread.? I just can't get away with anything with you guys.? Thankfully.Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 10, 2020, 11:41:21 AM PDT, Perry wrote: #yiv4621312562 #yiv4621312562 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4621312562 #yiv4621312562 p.yiv4621312562MsoNormal, #yiv4621312562 li.yiv4621312562MsoNormal, #yiv4621312562 div.yiv4621312562MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4621312562 a:link, #yiv4621312562 span.yiv4621312562MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4621312562 .yiv4621312562MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv4621312562 div.yiv4621312562WordSection1 {}#yiv4621312562 OK I got confused on this exchanged.? Regarding the UNF threads, my info shows the 3/8 (major diameter) UNF bolt as having 24 threads per inch. The exchange mentioned 20 TPI Perry ? From: Michael Salter Subject: Re: [Healeys] Motor Mout Bolts ? "So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF." I think that may be a stretch Mike ... I know, for example, that the nuts welded into the frame for the battery hold down rods changed from BSF to UNF as C.#156839. I would bet that there are other instances of this. I would always recommend checking your parts book for the correct thread for your car before running a tap through any. ? M ? On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:50 PM Michael MacLean wrote: The only reason I asked this question in the first place was because a 3/8" UNF bolt screwed into all eight holes for a few threads and stopped.? Because it was the same in all eight holes I did not want to force it.? So, now I can run a 3/8 - 20 UNF tap through the hole to clean it up. So, I take it all threaded holes in the engine bay are UNF.? Certainly simplifies it. Mike MacLean On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 8:51 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote: They are UNF on my BN1 built 11 Jan. '55.? If they ever were BSF, it was very early in BN1 production.? ? On Sat, May 9, 2020, 16:54 Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael There was a slow switch from BSF to UNF fasteners used and threads on some parts starting about mid 1954 through the end of 1955 at several locations on the 100. However I can not speak to the engine mount to chassis fasteners. Its one of those areas of the car that if I ended up with damage to the welded nut threads that could not be cleaned up with a tap I would do what was necessary to secure the engine mount short of replacing the welded nut. Perry ? From: Michael MacLean ? Are the bolts that fasten the motor mounts to the frame different threads between the BN1 and the BN2? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 15:08:41 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:08:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Message-ID: I coat the lifters and cam liberally with Crane Cam Lube upon assembly and I put VR1 no synthetic in the pan by pumping it in through a "T" on the the oil pressure line. When pressure is established I crank the engine for several 20 second bursts about 5 minutes apart ensuring that oil pressure is well established each time. I then start the engine and run it up to 12 - 1500 RPM for about 15 - 20 seconds. I let everything cool down (5 - 10 minutes) and do the same again 2 or 3 times. Only after that do I start running the engine up to temperature. My theory is that it's important to prevent the high spots on the cam and lifters from getting hot until they have had a chance to "bed in". It works for me but as they say ... results may vary!! M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:45 PM Andy Sneddon wrote: > Michael, > > > > Could you elaborate on what steps you take to ? ?condition them very > carefully on initial start?. > > > > As some-one who is approaching first start-up after rebuild, anything I > can do to help prolong engine life is of interest. > > > > Andy > > > > > > *From: *Healeys on behalf of Michael > Salter > *Date: *Sunday, 10 May 2020 at 18:33 > *To: *Bob Spidell > *Cc: * > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure > > > > "How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)?" > > Another very good question ... > > Again completely undamaged. > > After earlier suffering a serious lifter and cam failure in that engine I > had taken enormous care to condition them very carefully on initial start > up with the replacements and used VR1 non synthetic oil exclusively > thereafter. > > This experience and others have me pretty well convinced that lifter/cam > problems are usually initiated on first start up of a new engine and if > they get through the first few minutes of running they will last well. > > BTW I've sold all my holdings in Valvoline ?? > > > > M > > > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 1:15 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > > Michael, > > How did the cam and lifters look (oblique ZDDP reference)? > > Bob > > On 5/10/2020 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Good question Roger. > > Amazingly the crank journals had some oil residue burned onto them which > easily polished off. This was a nitrided crank. > > The shells themselves definitely were also in "do not reuse" condition > with burned oil on the surfaces but when checked with "Plastigage" were > still within spec. > > Sure blew me away!! > > > > M > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon at xsmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 15:23:41 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:23:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam.? Old wives tale.? I have seen it done.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM, Michael Salter wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 15:29:10 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:29:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Well that's exactly what I did on the 100R engine after the first build and the cam and most of the lifters were munted after less than 1000 miles. M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 5:23 PM Michael MacLean, wrote: > Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx > 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam. Old wives > tale. I have seen it done. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 15:31:34 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 14:31:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> Message-ID: Sounds like a good approach.? Some say to static time, adjust carbs, fill pan with 'break-in' oil, etc. so the engine fires on the first crank, then run at 1,800-2,000RPM for up to 20 minutes to bed the cam and lifters.? The only explanation I've heard for running (somewhat) fast is to keep a steady flow of oil to the cam and lifters. On 5/10/2020 2:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > I coat the lifters and cam liberally with Crane Cam Lube upon assembly > and I put VR1 no synthetic in the pan by pumping it in through? a "T" > on the the oil pressure line. > When pressure is established I crank the engine for several 20 second > bursts about 5 minutes apart ensuring that oil pressure is well > established each time. > I then start the engine and run it up to 12 - 1500 RPM for about 15 - > 20 seconds. > I let everything cool down (5 - 10 minutes) and do the same again 2 or > 3 times. > Only after that do I start running the engine up to temperature. > My theory is that it's important to prevent the high spots on the cam > and lifters from getting hot until they have had a chance to "bed in". > It works for me but as they say ... results may vary!! > M > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:45 PM Andy Sneddon > wrote: > > Michael, > > Could you elaborate on what steps you take to ? ?condition them > very carefully on initial start?. > > As some-one who is approaching first start-up after rebuild, > anything I can do to help prolong engine life is of interest. > > Andy > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Sun May 10 15:50:07 2020 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 14:50:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Munted?! That's a new one for me. I had to look that one up. Ruined or destroyed. OK Mark Fawcett On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:46 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Well that's exactly what I did on the 100R engine after the first build > and the cam and most of the lifters were munted after less than 1000 miles. > > M > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 5:23 PM Michael MacLean, > wrote: > >> Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx >> 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam. Old wives >> tale. I have seen it done. >> Mike MacLean >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> >> On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM, Michael Salter >> wrote: >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sun May 10 15:57:43 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:57:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Routing In-Reply-To: References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Would someone please tell me, or show me, how the fuel line is routed going forward from the fuel pump in order not to interfere with the left side battery on a BN1. Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Sun May 10 16:01:43 2020 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 23:01:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Custom bodied 100 In-Reply-To: <65f7502a-e396-3ea7-3aae-241411ecece8@earthlink.net> References: <65f7502a-e396-3ea7-3aae-241411ecece8@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I think the car that was crashed and the car that went to the STates wereer pretty definitely the same car. There were people in Europe doing some pretty extreme mods and customs - and not just for US Forces! - it seems highly plausible that an Italian who wanted to change direction might have done it and it lookss pretty well done too. After all Lamborghini started by building tractors, and we all what Bugatti thought of Bentleys! Peter On 09/05/2020 14:33, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Anyone know anything about this car? > > https://www.undiscoveredclassics.com/sport-customs/1954-custom-bodied-austin-healey/ > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 10 16:22:24 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 18:22:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Routing In-Reply-To: <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: The line does interfere with the battery tray unfortunately. I always press an indentation in the tray to prevent problems. The same issue with the brake line as I recall on the other side ? M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:02 PM Charles Schott, wrote: > Would someone please tell me, or show me, how the fuel line is routed > going forward from the fuel pump in order not to interfere with the left > side battery on a BN1. Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > > >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 16:25:17 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 15:25:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0af77c43-3307-8c9e-9f20-c8c4d5121b8c@comcast.net> Or drunk: On 5/10/2020 2:50 PM, Mark Fawcett wrote: > Munted?! That's a new one for me. I had to look that one up. Ruined or > destroyed. OK > > Mark Fawcett > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:46 PM Michael Salter > > wrote: > > Well that's exactly what I did on the 100R engine after the first > build and the cam and most of the lifters were munted after less > than 1000 miles. > > M > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 5:23 PM Michael MacLean, > > wrote: > > Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it > up to approx 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the > lifters and cam. Old wives tale.? I have seen it done. > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: iphdddpkieejaalc.png Type: image/png Size: 11244 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun May 10 16:36:20 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 15:36:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Routing In-Reply-To: <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <5c0hbf59mpim8su4ur9k0oae8a84kh4c7m@4ax.com> see attached photo On Sun, 10 May 2020 17:57:43 -0400 (EDT), Charlie wrote: >Would someone please tell me, or show me, how the fuel line is routed going forward from the fuel pump in order not to interfere with the left side battery on a BN1. Thanks. > >Regards, > >Charlie -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 fuel pump - correct routing.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 899836 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 16:47:02 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 22:47:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <0af77c43-3307-8c9e-9f20-c8c4d5121b8c@comcast.net> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> <0af77c43-3307-8c9e-9f20-c8c4d5121b8c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1153722387.1104904.1589150822172@mail.yahoo.com> I got this from the archives: I'm already reading a few contrasting suggestions here regarding your initial engine start up. Here is what I always do: 1. fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water. proper antifreeze or coolant mixture can be added later. 2. make sure the engine oil has an adequate amount of ZDDP additive for the important initial running in of the cam lobes and cam followers 3. temporarily remove spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures the oil filter is full and oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure. 4. install spark plugs, pull out choke cable and ensure fuel is present. 5. make sure you are in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air. 6. start engine and watch closely for any leaks, oil or water. 7. bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed. This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers. 8. maintain this fast idle for at least 15 minutes, checking the top hose and the temperature gauge to make sure that the thermostat has opened at the correct temperature. I always use a 165 degree F thermostat. If all is well with your cooling system the temperature reading during this time shouldn't go much over the thermostat rating. 9. during this fast idle running, initial mixture settings and balances can be performed on the carbs, checks can be done for exhaust leaks as joints heat up and expand, engine paints will start initial burn off and cure, etc. 10. after the 15 minute run, bring the idle speed down to about 900 RPM and then gently shut off, again checking for leaks, etc. 11. THE MOST IMPORTANT: go celebrate your achievement! Rich Chrysler Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 10, 2020, 3:32:42 PM PDT, Bob Spidell wrote: Or drunk: On 5/10/2020 2:50 PM, Mark Fawcett wrote: Munted?! That's a new one for me. I had to look that one up. Ruined or destroyed. OK Mark Fawcett On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:46 PM Michael Salter wrote: Well that's exactly what I did on the 100R engine after the first build and the cam and most of the lifters were munted after less than 1000 miles. M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 5:23 PM Michael MacLean, wrote: Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam.? Old wives tale.? I have seen it done. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: iphdddpkieejaalc.png Type: image/png Size: 11244 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 10 17:17:47 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 23:17:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Routing In-Reply-To: <5c0hbf59mpim8su4ur9k0oae8a84kh4c7m@4ax.com> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <5c0hbf59mpim8su4ur9k0oae8a84kh4c7m@4ax.com> Message-ID: <926602561.1116888.1589152667689@mail.yahoo.com> I ordered my battery trays directly from Kilmartin along with several other items to take advantage of the high cost of postage.? I have two dry 6 volt Lucas repro batteries to install when the time comes.? I was asked if I wanted original style tray or aftermarket style.? I picked the aftermarket style because I am not doing a concours restoration.? Looking at the picture attached to this email I did not know at the time what the difference in the two styles were, but could this diagonal cut out of the corner of the tray be for the purpose of preventing interference with the fuel line?Mike MacLean On Sunday, May 10, 2020, 3:42:23 PM PDT, wrote: see attached photo On Sun, 10 May 2020 17:57:43 -0400 (EDT), Charlie wrote: >Would someone please tell me, or show me, how the fuel line is routed going forward from the fuel pump in order not to interfere with the left side battery on a BN1. Thanks. > >Regards, > >Charlie -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumbnail tray.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 129713 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 17:21:32 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 16:21:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line Routing In-Reply-To: <5c0hbf59mpim8su4ur9k0oae8a84kh4c7m@4ax.com> References: <1072856982.775430.1589058849540.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1072856982.775430.1589058849540@mail.yahoo.com> <20200509235452.7434FA1415@autox.team.net> <1699115698.3261021.1589147863956.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <5c0hbf59mpim8su4ur9k0oae8a84kh4c7m@4ax.com> Message-ID: <91cad8d3-4ab3-c128-7b60-7d4117a8d31d@comcast.net> OT (sorta):? Does that rubber boot significantly muffle the sound of the pump with no bad side effects?? I bought one (boot), but had second thoughts on installing it because it would probably cause the solenoid to run a little hotter.? The later pumps never had one AFAIK. On 5/10/2020 3:36 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: > see attached photo > > On Sun, 10 May 2020 17:57:43 -0400 (EDT), Charlie wrote: > >> Would someone please tell me, or show me, how the fuel line is routed going forward from the fuel pump in order not to interfere with the left side battery on a BN1. Thanks. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie > > From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun May 10 17:25:04 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 16:25:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The lifter faces are not flat. They have a crown so they rotate in the bores as the cam lobes move across them. At low RPMs the lifters do not rotate so much. It is absolutely essential on initial start up that the lifters are rotating so the cam and lifters can properly bed in. This is accomplished if the engine is reving at least 1500 RPM. On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:24 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx > 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam. Old wives > tale. I have seen it done. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 10 17:36:09 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 19:36:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> Message-ID: <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: May-10-20 1:39 PM To: 'Perry' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 9:01:21AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 10 17:47:53 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 19:47:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <843540844.1014987.1589132738015@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> <843540844.1014987.1589132738015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <031e01d62725$6c6eeb10$454cc130$@sympatico.ca> Mike, I am still a little sceptical that something is still not quite right. No matter whether it was a Triumph, MG, Healey, Jag, Morgan or anything else I have had the joy to work on, I have, after cleaning the splines and threads (hub and knock-off), and coating with an anti-seize compound, always been able to tighten the knock-offs by hand or with a few light taps with a hammer to be able to eliminate all play between the wheel and the hub. When I am convinced it is all seated properly, then I will give a few substantial whacks with a copper or hide-faced hammer to tighten it up. Driving will tighten them the rest of the way. You should not need to wail on the knock-off to eliminate the play. Given how critical a safety issue this is, I would be inclined to disassemble it and fully investigate the fit of everything. Perhaps it is just tight threads ? try removing the wheel and threading the knock-off on ? it should go all the way on by hand. If it doesn?t, there is your issue. That should be rectified because if the threads are not a good match, the tight threads may prevent the knock-off from self-tightening. More work I know, but we all seem to have time on our hands. Good luck, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: May-10-20 1:46 PM To: michaelsalter at gmail.com; Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs OK, I got the message. First of all because I converted from drum to 3000 disc brakes the hub extensions are different between front and back. I doubt this makes a difference in mounting the wire wheel. Late last night I went out to the garage and got out the big lead hammer I bought recently to get the knockoffs loose on my MGB GT. I beat the Healey knockoffs a lot harder this time. The wire wheel hub tightened up and showed no movement. Apparently using a plastic dead blow hammer was not enough. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:09 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Correct Perry but at one time there was a combination of hubs, splines and nuts which really didn't work so, when the nut was fully tightened and bottomed out on the thread the wheel wasn't clamped between the inner taper and the taper inside the nut .... a tad frustrating.... M On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:01 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sun May 10 18:12:00 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 17:12:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Generator 22900 Message-ID: <000001d62728$cd7a0770$686e1650$@cox.net> The generator on my BJ8 swallowed one of its brushes this AM. Turns out, the generator is actually a Lucas 22700, which is not the correct generator for the car in the 1st place, although it fits perfectly. I'm looking for a Lucas 22900 with a date stamp in mid/late 1963. If anybody has one in working/serviceable condition at reasonable cost, please contact me. Thank you, Jonas Payne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun May 10 18:31:13 2020 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 20:31:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <031e01d62725$6c6eeb10$454cc130$@sympatico.ca> References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> <843540844.1014987.1589132738015@mail.yahoo.com> <031e01d62725$6c6eeb10$454cc130$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I hate anti-seize, maybe it works just fine for spline hubs, but I find it get everywhere, and it doesn't clean off easily, while grease does, and the purpose is to prevent the wheel from seizing, grease works OK. John 64/66 BJ8s On 5/10/2020 7:47 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > Mike, I am still a little sceptical that something is still not quite > right.? No matter whether it was a Triumph, MG, Healey, Jag, Morgan or > anything else I have had the joy to work on, I have, after cleaning > the splines and threads (hub and knock-off), and coating with an > anti-seize compound, ?always been able to tighten the knock-offs _by > hand or with a few light taps_ with a hammer to be able to eliminate > all play between the wheel and the hub.? When I am convinced it is all > seated properly, then I will give a few substantial whacks with a > copper or hide-faced hammer to tighten it up.? Driving will tighten > them the rest of the way.? You should not need to wail on the > knock-off to eliminate the play.? Given how critical a safety issue > this is, I would be inclined to disassemble it and fully investigate > the fit of everything.? Perhaps it is just tight threads ? try > removing the wheel and threading the knock-off on ? it should go all > the way on by hand.? If it doesn?t, there is your issue.? That should > be rectified because if the threads are not a good match, the tight > threads may prevent the knock-off from self-tightening. > > More work I know, but we all seem to have time on our hands. > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun May 10 18:52:00 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 00:52:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: References: <1837679464.885970.1589086332324.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1837679464.885970.1589086332324@mail.yahoo.com> <20200510160103.9ECBAA1350@autox.team.net> <843540844.1014987.1589132738015@mail.yahoo.com> <031e01d62725$6c6eeb10$454cc130$@sympatico.ca>, Message-ID: I?ve found that a tube of antiseize anywhere in the garage wil eventually spread to cover everything else in the garage. It has its uses, but you need to be careful and sparing with it or you will find it everywhere... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John Vrugtman Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 12:31 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs I hate anti-seize, maybe it works just fine for spline hubs, but I find it get everywhere, and it doesn't clean off easily, while grease does, and the purpose is to prevent the wheel from seizing, grease works OK. John 64/66 BJ8s On 5/10/2020 7:47 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: Mike, I am still a little sceptical that something is still not quite right. No matter whether it was a Triumph, MG, Healey, Jag, Morgan or anything else I have had the joy to work on, I have, after cleaning the splines and threads (hub and knock-off), and coating with an anti-seize compound, always been able to tighten the knock-offs by hand or with a few light taps with a hammer to be able to eliminate all play between the wheel and the hub. When I am convinced it is all seated properly, then I will give a few substantial whacks with a copper or hide-faced hammer to tighten it up. Driving will tighten them the rest of the way. You should not need to wail on the knock-off to eliminate the play. Given how critical a safety issue this is, I would be inclined to disassemble it and fully investigate the fit of everything. Perhaps it is just tight threads ? try removing the wheel and threading the knock-off on ? it should go all the way on by hand. If it doesn?t, there is your issue. That should be rectified because if the threads are not a good match, the tight threads may prevent the knock-off from self-tightening. More work I know, but we all seem to have time on our hands. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun May 10 19:18:45 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 01:18:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale In-Reply-To: <538350712.1117230.1589155548283@mail.yahoo.com> References: <538350712.1117230.1589155548283.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <538350712.1117230.1589155548283@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2046657576.1138405.1589159925645@mail.yahoo.com> UHHHHHHHH lower 48???? -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 8:05 pm Subject: Lucas mirrors for sale Listers,Have decided to part with these.? L and R.? Both have VG chrome but one has small dent on housing - see pic. Both will need mirrors replaced.? Diameter is 5 inch.Also included are two aftermarket pieces.? One is just the head with no stem.? 4.5 inch diameter.? Good chrome.Other is complete with SS head and somewhat corroded stem.? 4.25 inch diameter.Selling as a lot, no separations.? $125 for all.? Free shipping to lower 28.Email offline with any QsKeith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 19:42:50 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:42:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list ?), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease.? Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas? the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate).? For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.? A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate.? Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub.? Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? Cheers, Mirek Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff? bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.? If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer!? Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.? Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease? so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.? Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ? At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 19:42:50 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:42:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list ?), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease.? Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas? the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate).? For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.? A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate.? Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub.? Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? Cheers, Mirek Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff? bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.? If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer!? Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.? Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease? so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.? Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ? At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun May 10 19:54:11 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 18:54:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written. Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place. -Roland On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just > go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the > maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should > be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before > refitting.? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Mirek Sharp > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM > *To: *'Perry' > > Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the > likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on > this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel > seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for > grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of > applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce > friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an > anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize > Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually > uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never > had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of > grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing > as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, > I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the > (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell > intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not > work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and > achieve clean spokes at the same time? > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs > > > > Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline > face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of > measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to > back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If > properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin > them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the > air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of > Thor. > > > > One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a > knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound > long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. > > > > I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just > forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts > metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. > > > > Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and > knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it > doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Perry via Healeys" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs > > Michael et al, > > Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire > wheel hub and the knockoff. > > The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in > the face of the extension. No rotational movement. > > The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The > tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they > have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. > > What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off > forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface > is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the > little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to > stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight > enough there is not movement here either. > > So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the > knock off is not tight enough. > > Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of > owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left > and right) threads that self tighten. > > Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > *Subject: *[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III > > > > At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I > even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive > through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not > wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being > sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a > vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to > be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, > parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. > This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new > parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. > Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial > and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel > flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake > lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. > I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can > move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I > gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of > truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight > back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved > slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the > wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard > are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? > > Mike MacLean > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 20:16:03 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 22:16:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> Message-ID: My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM To: Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written.? Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place.? -Roland On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list ?), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease.? Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas? the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate).? For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.? A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate.? Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub.? Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? ? Cheers, Mirek Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs ? Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff? bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.? If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. ? One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer!? Flat ears? you betcha. ? I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.? ? Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease? so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.? Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ? At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 10 20:16:03 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 22:16:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> Message-ID: My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM To: Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written.? Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place.? -Roland On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list ?), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease.? Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas? the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate).? For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.? A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate.? Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub.? Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? ? Cheers, Mirek Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs ? Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff? bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.? If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. ? One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer!? Flat ears? you betcha. ? I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.? ? Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease? so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.? Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III ? At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.? I even have my groceries delivered.? I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.? My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.? He refuses, but he is only three years old.? So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.? I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.? Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just? my general ignorance and/or incompetence.? This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.? I thought I had done a nice job.? No lateral play in the hub.? Turns easily without binding.? The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.? Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.? I have yet to run the brake lines.? Maybe next.?? This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.? I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.? After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.? Now the moment of truth.? I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.? Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.? I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!? What!?!? How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 20:47:01 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 19:47:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <20200511022118.8E63BA1620@autox.team.net> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> <20200511022118.8E63BA1620@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <730725b8-40bf-9f12-6d8a-84a9bacd8b6a@comcast.net> I struggled with this quandry for years (partly because I got tired of having all my work clothes having a circular stain on them).? As noted, anti-seize is intended for and most useful for threads where grease would get cooked off, like spark plugs; it's not intended to be a good lubricant, even though, like most greases, it's oil with a thickener (moly, lithium, etc.).? I believe even the best splined hubs will have a teensy bit of ratchet-like movement, and since the hubs don't get all that hot grease would be the better lubricant.? I usually use wheel bearing grease, as it's thicker, designed for warm applications and persistent. Bob On 5/10/2020 7:16 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > > My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher > temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. > > If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined > connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Roland Wilhelmy > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM > *To: *Perry > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs > > Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written.? > Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one > place. > > -Roland > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys > > wrote: > > Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however > lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual > all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel > splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and > cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? > > Perry > > Sent from Mail > for Windows 10 > > *From: *Mirek Sharp > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM > *To: *'Perry' > > Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of > the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never > happens on this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to > stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the > recommendation is always for grease.? Grease is designed to > lubricate parts, whereas? the intent of applying it to the splines > is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., > lubricate).? For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing > product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant > (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses > it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have > never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.? A very > fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off > I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, > providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of > the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible > practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke > heads inside the hub.? Not to say grease does not work, it will, > but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve > clean spokes at the same time? > > Cheers, Mirek > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun May 10 21:22:37 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 13:22:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <730725b8-40bf-9f12-6d8a-84a9bacd8b6a@comcast.net> References: <730725b8-40bf-9f12-6d8a-84a9bacd8b6a@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0F29DBA5-9C0D-4069-8274-CB7471CD37CA@gmail.com> Hi Bob, Here?s my best 2 pieces of advice. 1. Always put the spinner back on the hub as soon as you remove the wheel, and you?ll avoid circular grease stains on the front of your shirt, and 2. Clean the splined hub, spinner and the wheel. Apply a thin smear of grease to the 4 tapered faces. Apply some grease to the internal splined section of the wheel (not to the exposed splines on the hub!) Then, when you push the wheel back onto the splined hub, any excess grease is pushed out to the spinner end, where you can easily wipe it off. Your Healey will like you, because you won?t have a heap of grease dripping down the spokes on the inside of the wheel, and your wife will like you, because your shirts stay clean. ? Best Chris > On 11 May 2020, at 12:47 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? I struggled with this quandry for years (partly because I got tired of having all my work clothes having a circular stain on them). As noted, anti-seize is intended for and most useful for threads where grease would get cooked off, like spark plugs; it's not intended to be a good lubricant, even though, like most greases, it's oil with a thickener (moly, lithium, etc.). I believe even the best splined hubs will have a teensy bit of ratchet-like movement, and since the hubs don't get all that hot grease would be the better lubricant. I usually use wheel bearing grease, as it's thicker, designed for warm applications and persistent. > > Bob > > On 5/10/2020 7:16 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: >> My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. >> If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: Roland Wilhelmy >> Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM >> To: Perry >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs >> >> Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written. Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place. >> -Roland >> >> On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: >> Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? >> Perry >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun May 10 21:56:39 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 23:56:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit Message-ID: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> Dear listers, I have recently spent a fair bit of time fiddling with getting a good fit for the hardtop on my '59 BT7. It is definitely a bit long, and when clipped securely to the windscreen it overhangs the rear cockpit trim just a bit more than I would like (just barely catching the rubber seal on the hardtop). It was a challenge getting a good seal with the side-screens as well and although I eventually achieved an excellent fit on the passenger side, there is still a bit of a gap (1/4") between the hardtop and the rear of the driver'-side side-screen, for the first 6" above the door. However, overall, I am relatively happy with the fit as the hardtop was purchased about 7 years ago and did not come factory-fitted back in '59. I understand from talking to others that there is considerable variation in the hardtops; they are not all identical. Despite this, I have wondered if the issue with the less than perfect fit is because the hardtop is too "long", or if the distance between my windshield and the rear aluminum cockpit trim is too short. The latter is possible as the body was removed for repair and paint 6 years ago. That work was undertaken by my late friend Rich Chrysler and his crew, who knew thing or two about Healeys and whose work is impeccable, thus I am inclined to think it is the hardtop. Also, I have moved the windscreen as far forward as possible without compromising the fit against the front shroud (there is a shallow "hump" in the shroud which locates the rubber windscreen seal). The rake is determined by the angle of the side-screens and getting the base of the windscreen pillars satisfactorily located on the rubber pads, so no adjustment there. The body panels fit beautifully, so I will not contemplate adjusting those to achieve a better fit for the hardtop. So, more out of curiosity than anything else, (and as part of my personal commitment to keep us all productively occupied through the present crisis) I would be grateful if any listers out there with BT7s could measure the distance from the windscreen to the rear aluminum moulding around the cockpit so I can get some idea what variation exists, if any, in the "length" of the cockpit (I don't know how else to put it). To ensure the same measuring points are used by all, I suggest the measurement be taken from the centre of the top windscreen frame, at the top of the rear lip of the frame (hook the tape measure over the lip) to the middle of the aluminum trim at the rear of the cockpit (i.e., along the centreline of the car). There is a very short segment of aluminum trim, about an inch long, held by a single screw, which conveniently denotes the centreline at the rear. Many thanks to any of you who can shed some light on this question for me. Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 10 22:00:59 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 May 2020 21:00:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <0F29DBA5-9C0D-4069-8274-CB7471CD37CA@gmail.com> References: <730725b8-40bf-9f12-6d8a-84a9bacd8b6a@comcast.net> <0F29DBA5-9C0D-4069-8274-CB7471CD37CA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yeah, I learned the 'put the spinner on the hub trick' eventually, but sometimes in the heat of battle you forget.? And, yeah, putting the grease on the wheel hub is the way to go, then take the wheel off and on a couple times to distribute it (wipe off any excess). I have a name for the shirts with the circular grease stain: 'rags.' Bob On 5/10/2020 8:22 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Bob, > Here?s my best 2 pieces of advice. > 1. Always put the spinner back on the hub as soon as you remove the > wheel, and you?ll avoid circular grease stains on the front of your > shirt, and > 2. Clean the splined hub, spinner and the wheel. > Apply a thin smear of grease to the 4 tapered faces. Apply some grease > to the internal splined section of the wheel (not to the exposed > splines on the hub!) > Then, when you push the wheel back onto the splined hub, any excess > grease is pushed out to the spinner end, where you can easily wipe it > off. > Your Healey will like you, because you won?t have a heap of grease > dripping down the spokes on the inside of the wheel, and your wife > will like you, because your shirts stay clean. ? > Best > Chris > >> On 11 May 2020, at 12:47 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? I struggled with this quandry for years (partly because I got tired >> of having all my work clothes having a circular stain on them).? As >> noted, anti-seize is intended for and most useful for threads where >> grease would get cooked off, like spark plugs; it's not intended to >> be a good lubricant, even though, like most greases, it's oil with a >> thickener (moly, lithium, etc.).? I believe even the best splined >> hubs will have a teensy bit of ratchet-like movement, and since the >> hubs don't get all that hot grease would be the better lubricant.? I >> usually use wheel bearing grease, as it's thicker, designed for warm >> applications and persistent. >> >> Bob >> >> On 5/10/2020 7:16 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: >>> >>> My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher >>> temperature threaded connections along with a few other things long >>> ago.. >>> >>> If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined >>> connections, like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use >>> grease. >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> *From: *Roland Wilhelmy >>> *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM >>> *To: *Perry >>> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs >>> >>> Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written.? >>> Anti seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in >>> one place. >>> >>> -Roland >>> >>> On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys >>> > wrote: >>> >>> Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however >>> lets just go back to what every factory service/workshop manual >>> all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel >>> splines, ?A little grease should be smeared upon the splines and >>> cone faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.? >>> >>> Perry >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Mon May 11 00:15:12 2020 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 16:15:12 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit In-Reply-To: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> References: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <003001d6275b$8827df70$98779e50$@com.au> Hi Mirek, I just measured my 59 BT7 at the centre point. 1310mm from back edge of cockpit surround to back of windscreen surround (51.5 inches) 1335mm to front edge of windscreen surround. (52.55 inches) The supports are correctly aligned with the sidescreens Trust this helps Regards John Rowe Queensland Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Monday, 11 May 2020 1:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit Dear listers, I have recently spent a fair bit of time fiddling with getting a good fit for the hardtop on my '59 BT7. It is definitely a bit long, and when clipped securely to the windscreen it overhangs the rear cockpit trim just a bit more than I would like (just barely catching the rubber seal on the hardtop). It was a challenge getting a good seal with the side-screens as well and although I eventually achieved an excellent fit on the passenger side, there is still a bit of a gap (1/4") between the hardtop and the rear of the driver'-side side-screen, for the first 6" above the door. However, overall, I am relatively happy with the fit as the hardtop was purchased about 7 years ago and did not come factory-fitted back in '59. I understand from talking to others that there is considerable variation in the hardtops; they are not all identical. Despite this, I have wondered if the issue with the less than perfect fit is because the hardtop is too "long", or if the distance between my windshield and the rear aluminum cockpit trim is too short. The latter is possible as the body was removed for repair and paint 6 years ago. That work was mmundertaken by my late friend Rich Chrysler and his crew, who knew thing or two about Healeys and whose work is impeccable, thus I am inclined to think it is the hardtop. Also, I have moved the windscreen as far forward as possible without compromising the fit against the front shroud (there is a shallow "hump" in the shroud which locates the rubber windscreen seal). The rake is determined by the angle of the side-screens and getting the base of the windscreen pillars satisfactorily located on the rubber pads, so no adjustment there. The body panels fit beautifully, so I will not contemplate adjusting those to achieve a better fit for the hardtop. So, more out of curiosity than anything else, (and as part of my personal commitment to keep us all productively occupied through the present crisis) I would be grateful if any listers out there with BT7s could measure the distance from the windscreen to the rear aluminum moulding around the cockpit so I can get some idea what variation exists, if any, in the "length" of the cockpit (I don't know how else to put it). To ensure the same measuring points are used by all, I suggest the measurement be taken from the centre of the top windscreen frame, at the top of the rear lip of the frame (hook the tape measure over the lip) to the middle of the aluminum trim at the rear of the cockpit (i.e., along the centreline of the car). There is a very short segment of aluminum trim, about an inch long, held by a single screw, which conveniently denotes the centreline at the rear. Many thanks to any of you who can shed some light on this question for me. Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon May 11 04:39:57 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 06:39:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <042101d62780$846a1450$8d3e3cf0$@rr.com> Relative motion between two metallic surfaces in contact under high load can result in fretting of the surfaces and possible stress corrosion cracking. Lubrication is necessary on the splines and conical surfaces of the wheel and hub to minimize fretting. I?ve used only grease to lubricate the wheel and hub surfaces for 36 years and I do not leave the wheels on for years without cleaning and re-lubrication. Never had a wheel seize on the hub, and the splines show no signs of wear on the wheels or hubs after 80,000 miles ? except that there is some slight evidence of fretting on the inboard conical surfaces. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: May-10-20 1:39 PM To: 'Perry' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Perry via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 9:01:21AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs Michael et al, Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement. The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either. So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon May 11 05:50:49 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 07:50:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Richard is,as usual, absolutely correct in that the lifters are very slightly convex on the base however it is not that which makes them rotate rather that the fact that the lifter bores are slightly displaced from the centerline on the cam lobes. In many Healey engines that I have disassembled however it is quite apparent that at least some of the lifters have not been rotating as evidenced by the rectangular shape of the witness mark on the base. By measuring the position of the rectangle one can confirm that the displacement is about 1mm as I recall. I've never been able to determine why some lifters fail to rotate as they seen quite free in the bore. Regarding the idea that the engine has to be turning at 1500 RPM to throw oil up to the cam I totally disagree with that. Even 600 RPM is 10 rotations a second .... hmmmm. M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 7:25 PM richard mayor, wrote: > The lifter faces are not flat. They have a crown so they rotate in the > bores as the cam lobes move across them. At low RPMs the lifters do not > rotate so much. It is absolutely essential on initial start up that the > lifters are rotating so the cam and lifters can properly bed in. This is > accomplished if the engine is reving at least 1500 RPM. > > On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:24 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Why do I keep hearing on initial start up immediately get it up to approx >> 2000 rpm and run it 20 minutes to bed in the lifters and cam. Old wives >> tale. I have seen it done. >> Mike MacLean >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> >> On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 2:09 PM, Michael Salter >> wrote: >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Mon May 11 05:54:05 2020 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 07:54:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <042101d62780$846a1450$8d3e3cf0$@rr.com> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <042101d62780$846a1450$8d3e3cf0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1421152705.82342061.1589198045656.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> FWIW, I use copper anti-seize also. ----- Original Message ----- From: Max Byers To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 11 May 2020 06:39:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Relative motion between two metallic surfaces in contact under high load can result in fretting of the surfaces and possible stress corrosion cracking. Lubrication is necessary on the splines and conical surfaces of the wheel and hub to minimize fretting. I?ve used only grease to lubricate the wheel and hub surfaces for 36 years and I do not leave the wheels on for years without cleaning and re-lubrication. Never had a wheel seize on the hub, and the splines show no signs of wear on the wheels or hubs after 80,000 miles ? except that there is some slight evidence of fretting on the inboard conical surfaces. Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC USAFrom: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time? Cheers, MirekFrom: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: May-10-20 1:39 PM To: 'Perry' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor. One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank-----------------------------------------From: "Perry via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 9:01:21AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offsMichael et al,Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement.The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either.So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough. Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon May 11 05:54:55 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 07:54:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs In-Reply-To: <20200511022132.9A44FA1695@autox.team.net> References: <2ccdc7dae00575deb90f48d98173e6fca61f0831@webmail> <030701d62723$c8940210$59bc0630$@sympatico.ca> <20200511014830.525C0A1703@autox.team.net> <20200511022132.9A44FA1695@autox.team.net> Message-ID: To add a little fuel to the fire, the self tightening feature on the Rudge Whitworth design requires that the wheel spline be very slightly loose on the hub to allow a little movement. ?? M On Sun, May 10, 2020, 10:21 PM Perry via Healeys, wrote: > My understanding is that anti seize was developed for higher temperature > threaded connections along with a few other things long ago.. > > If you look at recommendations from manufacturers of splined connections, > like the slip joint in driveshafts, they say to use grease. > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Roland Wilhelmy > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 9:54 PM > *To: *Perry > *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs > > > > Maybe anti seize hadn't been invented when the manual was written. Anti > seize surely does get onto every surface once you apply it in one place. > > -Roland > > > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 6:48 PM Perry via Healeys > wrote: > > Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just > go back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the > maintenance or service of the wire wheel splines, ?A little grease should > be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before > refitting.? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Mirek Sharp > *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM > *To: *'Perry' > > Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the > likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on > this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel > seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for > grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of > applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce > friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an > anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize > Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually > uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never > had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine smear of > grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing > as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is used sparingly, > I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the > (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell > intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to say grease does not > work, it will, but why not use a product designed for the purpose, and > achieve clean spokes at the same time? > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs > > > > Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline > face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of > measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to > back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If > properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin > them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the > air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side of > Thor. > > > > One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a > knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound > long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha. > > > > I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just > forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts > metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub. > > > > Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and > knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it > doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Perry via Healeys" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs > > Michael et al, > > Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire > wheel hub and the knockoff. > > The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in > the face of the extension. No rotational movement. > > The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The > tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they > have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. > > What else holds the wheel in place?the knockoff. The cone in the knock off > forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface > is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the > little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to > stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight > enough there is not movement here either. > > So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the > knock off is not tight enough. > > Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of > owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left > and right) threads that self tighten. > > Gentlemen, remember your Mother today! > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > *Subject: *[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III > > > > At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. I > even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a drive > through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not > wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, being > sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a > vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to > be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, > parts unavailability or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. > This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new > parts. I thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. > Turns easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much trial > and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel > flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake > lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. > I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can > move the car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I > gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of > truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight > back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved > slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the > wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard > are you supposed to hit those knockoffs? > > Mike MacLean > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 11 08:32:03 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 07:32:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Aren't the cam lobes slightly sloped from edge-to-edge as well? On 5/11/2020 4:50 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Richard is,as usual, absolutely correct in that the lifters are very > slightly convex on the base however it is not that which makes them > rotate rather that the fact that the lifter bores are slightly > displaced from the centerline on the cam lobes. > In many Healey engines that I have disassembled however it is quite > apparent that at least some of the lifters have not been rotating as > evidenced by the rectangular shape of the witness mark on the base. By > measuring the position of the rectangle one can confirm that the > displacement is about 1mm as I recall. > I've never been able to determine why some lifters fail to rotate as > they seen quite free in the bore. > Regarding the idea that the engine has to be turning at 1500 RPM to > throw oil up to the cam I totally disagree?with that. > Even 600 RPM is 10 rotations a second .... hmmmm. > > M > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 7:25 PM richard mayor, > wrote: > > The lifter faces are not flat. They have a crown so they rotate in > the bores as the cam lobes move across them. At low RPMs the > lifters do not rotate so much. It is absolutely essential on > initial start up that the lifters are rotating so the cam and > lifters can properly bed in. This is accomplished if the engine is > reving at least 1500 RPM. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Mon May 11 10:12:13 2020 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 09:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit In-Reply-To: <003001d6275b$8827df70$98779e50$@com.au> References: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> <003001d6275b$8827df70$98779e50$@com.au> Message-ID: I got 51.5" too Mark Fawcett On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 11:25 PM John Rowe wrote: > Hi Mirek, > > I just measured my 59 BT7 at the centre point. > > 1310mm from back edge of cockpit surround to back of windscreen surround > (51.5 inches) > > 1335mm to front edge of windscreen surround. (52.55 inches) > > The supports are correctly aligned with the sidescreens > > Trust this helps > > Regards > > John Rowe > > Queensland Australia > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Mirek > Sharp > *Sent:* Monday, 11 May 2020 1:57 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] length of cockpit > > > > Dear listers, I have recently spent a fair bit of time fiddling with > getting a good fit for the hardtop on my ?59 BT7. It is definitely a bit > long, and when clipped securely to the windscreen it overhangs the rear > cockpit trim just a bit more than I would like (*just barely* catching > the rubber seal on the hardtop). It was a challenge getting a good seal > with the side-screens as well and although I eventually achieved an > excellent fit on the passenger side, there is still a bit of a gap (1/4?) > between the hardtop and the rear of the driver?-side side-screen, for the > first 6? above the door. However, overall, I am relatively happy with the > fit as the hardtop was purchased about 7 years ago and did not come > factory-fitted back in ?59. > > > > I understand from talking to others that there is considerable variation > in the hardtops; they are not all identical. Despite this, I have wondered > if the issue with the less than perfect fit is because the hardtop is too > ?long?, or if the distance between my windshield and the rear aluminum > cockpit trim is too short. The latter is possible as the body was removed > for repair and paint 6 years ago. That work was mmundertaken by my late > friend Rich Chrysler and his crew, who knew thing or two about Healeys and > whose work is impeccable, thus I am inclined to think it is the hardtop. > Also, I have moved the windscreen as far forward as possible without > compromising the fit against the front shroud (there is a shallow ?hump? in > the shroud which locates the rubber windscreen seal). The rake is > determined by the angle of the side-screens and getting the base of the > windscreen pillars satisfactorily located on the rubber pads, so no > adjustment there. The body panels fit beautifully, so I will not > contemplate adjusting those to achieve a better fit for the hardtop. > > > > So, more out of curiosity than anything else, (and as part of my personal > commitment to keep us all productively occupied through the present crisis) > I would be grateful if any listers out there with BT7s could measure the > distance from the windscreen to the rear aluminum moulding around the > cockpit so I can get some idea what variation exists, if any, in the > ?length? of the cockpit (I don?t know how else to put it). To ensure the > same measuring points are used by all, I suggest the measurement be taken > from the centre of the top windscreen frame, at the top of the rear lip of > the frame (hook the tape measure over the lip) to the middle of the > aluminum trim at the rear of the cockpit (i.e., along the centreline of > the car). There is a very short segment of aluminum trim, about an inch > long, held by a single screw, which conveniently denotes the centreline at > the rear. > > > > Many thanks to any of you who can shed some light on this question for me. > > > > Mirek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon May 11 10:19:32 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 12:19:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure In-Reply-To: References: <906356191.99335931.1589041777480.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1035127235.99423591.1589048671014.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1513176317.100136325.1589129077725.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <5eb47051-3d05-576e-78ed-ad965a6b0f2e@comcast.net> <1373563257.1078908.1589145821185@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes Bob That is correct. Usually the rear is about about 0.001" higher than the front. With flat tappets the center of the tappet is usually also about 0.001" higher than the edges. M On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 10:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Aren't the cam lobes slightly sloped from edge-to-edge as well? > > > On 5/11/2020 4:50 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Richard is,as usual, absolutely correct in that the lifters are very > slightly convex on the base however it is not that which makes them rotate > rather that the fact that the lifter bores are slightly displaced from the > centerline on the cam lobes. > In many Healey engines that I have disassembled however it is quite > apparent that at least some of the lifters have not been rotating as > evidenced by the rectangular shape of the witness mark on the base. By > measuring the position of the rectangle one can confirm that the > displacement is about 1mm as I recall. > I've never been able to determine why some lifters fail to rotate as they > seen quite free in the bore. > Regarding the idea that the engine has to be turning at 1500 RPM to throw > oil up to the cam I totally disagree with that. > Even 600 RPM is 10 rotations a second .... hmmmm. > > M > > On Sun, May 10, 2020, 7:25 PM richard mayor, > wrote: > >> The lifter faces are not flat. They have a crown so they rotate in the >> bores as the cam lobes move across them. At low RPMs the lifters do not >> rotate so much. It is absolutely essential on initial start up that the >> lifters are rotating so the cam and lifters can properly bed in. This is >> accomplished if the engine is reving at least 1500 RPM. >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon May 11 10:32:38 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 17:32:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit In-Reply-To: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> References: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <001601d627b1$c9d0fe60$5d72fb20$@alexarevel.plus.com> 51.5" on mine. Mk11 BT7. Mind you, my hardtop isn't a brilliant fit either. Lengthwise, I'd say it's good but it seems to sit up a little at the rear centre. It doesn't quite sit down flush. A few mm out. Nothing too serious. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: 11 May 2020 04:57 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit Dear listers, I have recently spent a fair bit of time fiddling with getting a good fit for the hardtop on my '59 BT7. It is definitely a bit long, and when clipped securely to the windscreen it overhangs the rear cockpit trim just a bit more than I would like (just barely catching the rubber seal on the hardtop). It was a challenge getting a good seal with the side-screens as well and although I eventually achieved an excellent fit on the passenger side, there is still a bit of a gap (1/4") between the hardtop and the rear of the driver'-side side-screen, for the first 6" above the door. However, overall, I am relatively happy with the fit as the hardtop was purchased about 7 years ago and did not come factory-fitted back in '59. I understand from talking to others that there is considerable variation in the hardtops; they are not all identical. Despite this, I have wondered if the issue with the less than perfect fit is because the hardtop is too "long", or if the distance between my windshield and the rear aluminum cockpit trim is too short. The latter is possible as the body was removed for repair and paint 6 years ago. That work was undertaken by my late friend Rich Chrysler and his crew, who knew thing or two about Healeys and whose work is impeccable, thus I am inclined to think it is the hardtop. Also, I have moved the windscreen as far forward as possible without compromising the fit against the front shroud (there is a shallow "hump" in the shroud which locates the rubber windscreen seal). The rake is determined by the angle of the side-screens and getting the base of the windscreen pillars satisfactorily located on the rubber pads, so no adjustment there. The body panels fit beautifully, so I will not contemplate adjusting those to achieve a better fit for the hardtop. So, more out of curiosity than anything else, (and as part of my personal commitment to keep us all productively occupied through the present crisis) I would be grateful if any listers out there with BT7s could measure the distance from the windscreen to the rear aluminum moulding around the cockpit so I can get some idea what variation exists, if any, in the "length" of the cockpit (I don't know how else to put it). To ensure the same measuring points are used by all, I suggest the measurement be taken from the centre of the top windscreen frame, at the top of the rear lip of the frame (hook the tape measure over the lip) to the middle of the aluminum trim at the rear of the cockpit (i.e., along the centreline of the car). There is a very short segment of aluminum trim, about an inch long, held by a single screw, which conveniently denotes the centreline at the rear. Many thanks to any of you who can shed some light on this question for me. Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Mon May 11 12:00:54 2020 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 14:00:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit In-Reply-To: <001601d627b1$c9d0fe60$5d72fb20$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <037201d62748$2d1c3440$87549cc0$@sympatico.ca> <001601d627b1$c9d0fe60$5d72fb20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: My BT7 hardtop is a bit pride on both sides forward of the rear hold down clamps. A friend recently restored a hardtop for a customer. We fitted it on my car and it was perfect. It did take some work though - primarily bending the locating pins so they fit properly in the locating holes. Larry > On May 11, 2020, at 12:32 PM, wrote: > > 51.5? on mine. Mk11 BT7. > Mind you, my hardtop isn?t a brilliant fit either. Lengthwise, I?d say it?s good but it seems to sit up a little at the rear centre. It doesn?t quite sit down flush. A few mm out. Nothing too serious. > Simon > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp > Sent: 11 May 2020 04:57 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] length of cockpit > > Dear listers, I have recently spent a fair bit of time fiddling with getting a good fit for the hardtop on my ?59 BT7. It is definitely a bit long, and when clipped securely to the windscreen it overhangs the rear cockpit trim just a bit more than I would like (just barely catching the rubber seal on the hardtop). It was a challenge getting a good seal with the side-screens as well and although I eventually achieved an excellent fit on the passenger side, there is still a bit of a gap (1/4?) between the hardtop and the rear of the driver?-side side-screen, for the first 6? above the door. However, overall, I am relatively happy with the fit as the hardtop was purchased about 7 years ago and did not come factory-fitted back in ?59. > > I understand from talking to others that there is considerable variation in the hardtops; they are not all identical. Despite this, I have wondered if the issue with the less than perfect fit is because the hardtop is too ?long?, or if the distance between my windshield and the rear aluminum cockpit trim is too short. The latter is possible as the body was removed for repair and paint 6 years ago. That work was undertaken by my late friend Rich Chrysler and his crew, who knew thing or two about Healeys and whose work is impeccable, thus I am inclined to think it is the hardtop. Also, I have moved the windscreen as far forward as possible without compromising the fit against the front shroud (there is a shallow ?hump? in the shroud which locates the rubber windscreen seal). The rake is determined by the angle of the side-screens and getting the base of the windscreen pillars satisfactorily located on the rubber pads, so no adjustment there. The body panels fit beautifully, so I will not contemplate adjusting those to achieve a better fit for the hardtop. > > So, more out of curiosity than anything else, (and as part of my personal commitment to keep us all productively occupied through the present crisis) I would be grateful if any listers out there with BT7s could measure the distance from the windscreen to the rear aluminum moulding around the cockpit so I can get some idea what variation exists, if any, in the ?length? of the cockpit (I don?t know how else to put it). To ensure the same measuring points are used by all, I suggest the measurement be taken from the centre of the top windscreen frame, at the top of the rear lip of the frame (hook the tape measure over the lip) to the middle of the aluminum trim at the rear of the cockpit (i.e., along the centreline of the car). There is a very short segment of aluminum trim, about an inch long, held by a single screw, which conveniently denotes the centreline at the rear. > > Many thanks to any of you who can shed some light on this question for me. > > Mirek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon May 11 15:23:52 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 17:23:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey Message-ID: Was reading a story on line about the virus and the photo attached to the story showed an Austin Healey. Looks like a white BN4 right hand drive. There was a reference to Singapore. Don?t see that very often in current affairs. Anyone on the list? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Singapore Healey.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 9648 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon May 11 16:15:00 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 08:15:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey In-Reply-To: <20200511213608.138EDA10FC@autox.team.net> References: <20200511213608.138EDA10FC@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <005701d627e1$9d616920$d8243b60$@tpg.com.au> Hello The Australian clubs have a number of members who live in Singapore as well as cars here that were originally delivered new to what the Heritage Certificates indicate Malaya. Being part of the British Commonwealth, Malaya (Singapore became a separate country in 1965) was an important market for British cars, although having been there I don?t know whether it?s a good climate for Austin-Healeys as it?s almost on the Equator and bloody hot all year. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, 12 May 2020 7:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey Was reading a story on line about the virus and the photo attached to the story showed an Austin Healey. Looks like a white BN4 right hand drive. There was a reference to Singapore. Don?t see that very often in current affairs. Anyone on the list? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon May 11 18:08:57 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 00:08:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey In-Reply-To: <20200511213614.D87B8A1130@autox.team.net> References: <20200511213614.D87B8A1130@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I saw that too. I guess that is where there is still a market for British cars. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry via Healeys Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 2:23 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey Was reading a story on line about the virus and the photo attached to the story showed an Austin Healey. Looks like a white BN4 right hand drive. There was a reference to Singapore. Don?t see that very often in current affairs. Anyone on the list? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon May 11 18:47:47 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 00:47:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale References: <355296623.1765866.1589244467819.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <355296623.1765866.1589244467819@mail.yahoo.com> Listers,Have decided to part with these.? L and R.? Both have VG chrome but one has small dent on housing.? Both will need mirrors replaced.? Diameter is 5 inch.Also included are two aftermarket pieces.? One is just the head with no stem.? 4.5 inch diameter.? Good chrome.Other is complete with SS head and somewhat corroded stem.? 4.25 inch diameter.Selling as a lot, no separations.? $125 for all.? Free shipping to lower 48.Email offline with any Qs.? I have 3 other pix I can send to serious inquiries.Keithllennep at Verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC01219.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2444608 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Mon May 11 21:53:52 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 23:53:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet detail for BJ8 Message-ID: <00e001d62810$f4adffc0$de09ff40$@gmail.com> I've received my Heritage carpet kit and it includes a "corner cut" piece of carpet with a vinyl tab sewn along the outside seam. The piece appears to be suited for covering the small box behind the driver and passenger seat which houses the radius arms for the rear suspension. Neither I nor my installer can figure out exactly how to orient that pre-cut piece of carpet and vinyl tab. Does anyone have a picture? Or clear instructions? Thanks -skip- 1967 BJ8 "Gladys" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon May 11 22:38:01 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 04:38:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet detail for BJ8 In-Reply-To: <00e001d62810$f4adffc0$de09ff40$@gmail.com> References: <00e001d62810$f4adffc0$de09ff40$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Skip, Indeed it is, You will have to do some cutting but here are a couple photos of how it fits over the box, glued in place. Jean [cid:image002.jpg at 01D627ED.3492B2D0] [cid:image006.jpg at 01D627ED.3492B2D0] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: skip saunders Sent: May 11, 2020 11:03 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Carpet detail for BJ8 I?ve received my Heritage carpet kit and it includes a ?corner cut? piece of carpet with a vinyl tab sewn along the outside seam. The piece appears to be suited for covering the small box behind the driver and passenger seat which houses the radius arms for the rear suspension. Neither I nor my installer can figure out exactly how to orient that pre-cut piece of carpet and vinyl tab. Does anyone have a picture? Or clear instructions? Thanks -skip- 1967 BJ8 ?Gladys? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: FB974367E4D54A6EA580C5327A675023.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109356 bytes Desc: FB974367E4D54A6EA580C5327A675023.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 72BB60E408E54D93B1B79E2ED704F66E.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 117127 bytes Desc: 72BB60E408E54D93B1B79E2ED704F66E.jpg URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 11 22:40:34 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 04:40:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone have a blanking plate for a 100 fuel pump boss?? This motor started off as a bare block.? Everything bolted to this engine is from somewhere else.? No sense in this blanking plate being any different.? Not in the Moss catalog.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200511_213611.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3959912 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Mon May 11 23:09:30 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 01:09:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet detail for BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <00e001d62810$f4adffc0$de09ff40$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Awesome, thanks! On Tue, May 12, 2020, 00:38 Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Skip, > > Indeed it is, You will have to do some cutting but here are a couple > photos of how it fits over the box, glued in place. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *skip saunders > *Sent: *May 11, 2020 11:03 PM > *To: *healeylist > *Subject: *[Healeys] Carpet detail for BJ8 > > > > I?ve received my Heritage carpet kit and it includes a ?corner cut? piece > of carpet with a vinyl tab sewn along the outside seam. The piece appears > to be suited for covering the small box behind the driver and passenger > seat which houses the radius arms for the rear suspension. Neither I nor > my installer can figure out exactly how to orient that pre-cut piece of > carpet and vinyl tab. Does anyone have a picture? Or clear instructions? > > > > Thanks > > -skip- > > 1967 BJ8 ?Gladys? > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: FB974367E4D54A6EA580C5327A675023.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109356 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 72BB60E408E54D93B1B79E2ED704F66E.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 117127 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 72BB60E408E54D93B1B79E2ED704F66E.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 117127 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Tue May 12 03:35:44 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 10:35:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel plate. If you have a gacket set there should should be one to act as a template. A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical fuel pump being fitted or not. Best regards On Tue, 12 May 2020 at 06:01, Michael MacLean wrote: > Anyone have a blanking plate for a 100 fuel pump boss? This motor started > off as a bare block. Everything bolted to this engine is from somewhere > else. No sense in this blanking plate being any different. Not in the > Moss catalog. > Mike MacLean > > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200511_213611.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3959912 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 12 06:13:37 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 08:13:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John is absolutely correct however I would point out that the original blanking plate was actually a beautifully made die casting with ribs in the shape of an X. Also as John mentioned it was installed with small tubular spacers under the nut. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 5:57 a.m. John Harper, wrote: > Mike > > There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel > plate. If you have a gacket set there should should be one to act as a > template. > > A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need > short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish > to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical fuel pump being fitted > or not. > > Best regards > > On Tue, 12 May 2020 at 06:01, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Anyone have a blanking plate for a 100 fuel pump boss? This motor >> started off as a bare block. Everything bolted to this engine is from >> somewhere else. No sense in this blanking plate being any different. Not >> in the Moss catalog. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com >> >> > > -- > Best wishes > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200511_213611.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3959912 bytes Desc: not available URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Tue May 12 07:55:53 2020 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 09:55:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Photo attached of my BN1?s engine as removed (clearly for the first time in its life!) years ago?plate is just a flat piece of steel, not a casting. Apparently just another way for the company to save a few pence?. Sarah Carr BN1L 2216xx in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate John is absolutely correct however I would point out that the original blanking plate was actually a beautifully made die casting with ribs in the shape of an X. Also as John mentioned it was installed with small tubular spacers under the nut. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 5:57 a.m. John Harper, wrote: Mike There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel plate. If you have a gacket?set there should should be one to act as a template.? A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical?fuel pump being fitted or not. Best regards -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 63D040694DF448C095A3453B6AA45E20.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 12 07:58:50 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 09:58:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <5ebaaaf4.1c69fb81.748c9.25b2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> <5ebaaaf4.1c69fb81.748c9.25b2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Sorry, my bad, I was thinking of the one used on the 100/6 ... different animal. M On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:56 AM S.Carr wrote: > Photo attached of my BN1?s engine as removed (clearly for the first time > in its life!) years ago?plate is just a flat piece of steel, not a > casting. Apparently just another way for the company to save a few pence?. > > > > Sarah Carr > > BN1L 2216xx in PA > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael Salter > *Sent: *Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:10 AM > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate > > > > John is absolutely correct however I would point out that the original > blanking plate was actually a beautifully made die casting with ribs in the > shape of an X. Also as John mentioned it was installed with small tubular > spacers under the nut. > > > > M > > > > On Tue., May 12, 2020, 5:57 a.m. John Harper, > wrote: > > Mike > > > > There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel > plate. If you have a gacket set there should should be one to act as a > template. > > > > A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need > short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish > to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical fuel pump being fitted > or not. > > > > Best regards > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 63D040694DF448C095A3453B6AA45E20.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Tue May 12 08:20:49 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 14:20:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trunk key References: <1964476090.1996765.1589293249911.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1964476090.1996765.1589293249911@mail.yahoo.com> Got a trunk handle with lock on another vehicle.? Key will lock the handle but cannot be removed once locked.? Can only be removed in the unlocked position.? Anyone got suggestions as to why and how to make the key removable?Keith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 12 09:02:59 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 08:02:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> <5ebaaaf4.1c69fb81.748c9.25b2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <5E20A270D6634B9190541A6C2616B48B@DavidNockHP> The originals we a very thin alloy piece that warps and leaks so the added the ribs to try and strengthen the plate which still warped and leaked. Yes there is a replacement available made of a 1/4 inch alloy. We have them in stock if needed. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 6:58 AM To: S.Carr Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate Sorry, my bad, I was thinking of the one used on the 100/6 ... different animal. M On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:56 AM S.Carr wrote: Photo attached of my BN1?s engine as removed (clearly for the first time in its life!) years ago?plate is just a flat piece of steel, not a casting. Apparently just another way for the company to save a few pence?. Sarah Carr BN1L 2216xx in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate John is absolutely correct however I would point out that the original blanking plate was actually a beautifully made die casting with ribs in the shape of an X. Also as John mentioned it was installed with small tubular spacers under the nut. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 5:57 a.m. John Harper, wrote: Mike There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel plate. If you have a gacket set there should should be one to act as a template. A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical fuel pump being fitted or not. Best regards -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 63D040694DF448C095A3453B6AA45E20.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue May 12 09:02:59 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 08:02:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <943965819.1830997.1589258434617.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <943965819.1830997.1589258434617@mail.yahoo.com> <5ebaaaf4.1c69fb81.748c9.25b2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <5E20A270D6634B9190541A6C2616B48B@DavidNockHP> The originals we a very thin alloy piece that warps and leaks so the added the ribs to try and strengthen the plate which still warped and leaked. Yes there is a replacement available made of a 1/4 inch alloy. We have them in stock if needed. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 6:58 AM To: S.Carr Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate Sorry, my bad, I was thinking of the one used on the 100/6 ... different animal. M On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:56 AM S.Carr wrote: Photo attached of my BN1?s engine as removed (clearly for the first time in its life!) years ago?plate is just a flat piece of steel, not a casting. Apparently just another way for the company to save a few pence?. Sarah Carr BN1L 2216xx in PA Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blanking Plate John is absolutely correct however I would point out that the original blanking plate was actually a beautifully made die casting with ribs in the shape of an X. Also as John mentioned it was installed with small tubular spacers under the nut. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 5:57 a.m. John Harper, wrote: Mike There nothing special about these and they can be cut out of 1/8" steel plate. If you have a gacket set there should should be one to act as a template. A small detail, the studs are too long and to be fully authentic you need short spacers under the fixing nuts. It is assumed that Austin did not wish to have different blocks to allow for a mechanical fuel pump being fitted or not. Best regards -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 63D040694DF448C095A3453B6AA45E20.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 12 09:21:18 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:21:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trunk key In-Reply-To: <1964476090.1996765.1589293249911@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1964476090.1996765.1589293249911.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1964476090.1996765.1589293249911@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Can the lock bar (I do not know the correct term) be unbolted and turned 90 degrees? This would solve the problem. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-5-2020 om 16:20 schreef Keith Pennell via Healeys: > Got a trunk handle with lock on another vehicle.? Key will lock the > handle but cannot be removed once locked.? Can only be removed in the > unlocked position.? Anyone got suggestions as to why and how to make > the key removable? > Keith > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Tue May 12 13:06:44 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 15:06:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rivets for Windshield --- advice? Message-ID: <007601d62890$7af708e0$70e51aa0$@gmail.com> The chrome pieces for the windshield on my BJ8 have returned. The chrome shop disassembled the pieces, so now I need to rivet them back together. I notice that Hansen Rivet & Supply Company have a gazillion different versions of rivets. 1. My first question: what is best material to request? I believe I should be requesting Stainless Steel Rivets. Does anyone know if the SS rivets can be squeezed with the HS22E hand rivet squeezer? Perhaps Aluminum rivets would be easier to squeeze, but I?m reluctant to use aluminum since I?m afraid it would not look good against the chrome? 2. My second question: What type head rivets should I request? a. For the two hooks it appears I should be seeking 1/8? Round Head rivets b. For the small rivets connecting the two large pieces of the windshield side mounts, it appears I should be seeking 1/8? Truss Head rivets. c. For the bottom connections of the two large pieces of the windshield side mounts, it appears I need 3/16? Round Head rivets. d. For the rivets securing the plain steel insert into the window side mount, it appears I need 3/16? countersunk 90 degree heads. 3. My third question: Can the rivets be ordered to custom lengths? Or should I request ?? rivets and just grind them down to the appropriate length before squeezing? Alternate solutions anyone? Thanks -skip- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue May 12 13:32:11 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 19:32:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rivets for Windshield --- advice? In-Reply-To: <007601d62890$7af708e0$70e51aa0$@gmail.com> References: <007601d62890$7af708e0$70e51aa0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Skip, Here is most of the answers to your question. Use steel rivets for most and stainless steel for the ones that hold the top hooks. You will need either a press or something that you can put the round head of the rivets in and press it or hammer it from the other side. Any questions, just send me an email. Jean [cid:image003.jpg at 01D6286A.1EBDFBE0] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: skip saunders Sent: May 12, 2020 2:11 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Rivets for Windshield --- advice? The chrome pieces for the windshield on my BJ8 have returned. The chrome shop disassembled the pieces, so now I need to rivet them back together. I notice that Hansen Rivet & Supply Company have a gazillion different versions of rivets. 1. My first question: what is best material to request? I believe I should be requesting Stainless Steel Rivets. Does anyone know if the SS rivets can be squeezed with the HS22E hand rivet squeezer? Perhaps Aluminum rivets would be easier to squeeze, but I?m reluctant to use aluminum since I?m afraid it would not look good against the chrome? 2. My second question: What type head rivets should I request? * For the two hooks it appears I should be seeking 1/8? Round Head rivets * For the small rivets connecting the two large pieces of the windshield side mounts, it appears I should be seeking 1/8? Truss Head rivets. * For the bottom connections of the two large pieces of the windshield side mounts, it appears I need 3/16? Round Head rivets. * For the rivets securing the plain steel insert into the window side mount, it appears I need 3/16? countersunk 90 degree heads. 3. My third question: Can the rivets be ordered to custom lengths? Or should I request ?? rivets and just grind them down to the appropriate length before squeezing? Alternate solutions anyone? Thanks -skip- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E44F2CA07289476CA63A2E232FD17509.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 98950 bytes Desc: E44F2CA07289476CA63A2E232FD17509.jpg URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 12 16:28:06 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 22:28:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners.? Amazon sells a BSF tap and die set for $36. https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Tue May 12 18:54:39 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 00:54:39 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Look what I found! Message-ID: <55490fca-a14f-4eae-b539-39342fb65cd2@me.com> NFI, but went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts today and look what was in stock! I live in northern California, so if we can get it here, I'm sure it can be gotten anywhere!? Steven Kingsbury BN1? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN1156.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4219770 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Tue May 12 18:56:29 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 00:56:29 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Look what I found! Part Deaux Message-ID: <4353f45a-0270-466f-98ef-05ea46bf1a1a@me.com> Forgot to mention, it was $32.99 for the 5 quart container. There ya' go! SK -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Tue May 12 19:12:07 2020 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:12:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets Message-ID: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 12 20:35:48 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 22:35:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The tubes that are welded into the frame are threaded internally to accept 3/8" UNF bolts to secure the bumper brackets. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 10:28 p.m. Tom, wrote: > > How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the > frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are > there captive nuts inside the frame? > > thanks, > Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue May 12 20:51:22 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Look what I found! In-Reply-To: <55490fca-a14f-4eae-b539-39342fb65cd2@me.com> References: <55490fca-a14f-4eae-b539-39342fb65cd2@me.com> Message-ID: I get it at NAPA. Haven?t seen any sales on it though... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 12:54 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Look what I found! NFI, but went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts today and look what was in stock! I live in northern California, so if we can get it here, I'm sure it can be gotten anywhere! Steven Kingsbury BN1 [DSCN1156.JPG] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN1156.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4219770 bytes Desc: DSCN1156.JPG URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Tue May 12 20:52:49 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 22:52:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006301d628d1$97431480$c5c93d80$@gmail.com> The bolts go through the frame?. If you wish to add ?tow eyes?, they are attached using those same bolts (but you may need to lengthen the bolts a bit to accommodate the thickness of the tow eyes. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:12 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue May 12 23:17:06 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 22:17:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0c1601d628e5$c088a210$4199e630$@roadrunner.com> I would add to Michael?s comments that therefore you can bolt from either side. When I had my bumper installed, I had tow eyes bolted on the inside of the frame rails and the bumper brackets on the outside. I?ve not run a front bumper for years, and now have my auxiliary light brackets bolted to the outside of the frame rails, with the tow eyes behind them and a chin scoop, aka ?air shovel,? bolted between the frame rails. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 7:36 PM To: Tom Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets The tubes that are welded into the frame are threaded internally to accept 3/8" UNF bolts to secure the bumper brackets. M On Tue., May 12, 2020, 10:28 p.m. Tom, > wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed May 13 00:33:36 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 07:33:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve got one of these. I?d say that it was adequate for an amateur (me). The taps and dies are OK, but the tools are pretty marginal. Worth the money. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 12 May 2020 23:28 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners. Amazon sells a BSF tap and die set for $36. https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1 &keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 13 00:51:28 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 06:51:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> I just want them to clean up threads.? Should be adequate for that..Mike M On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 11:33:41 PM PDT, wrote: #yiv3373911207 #yiv3373911207 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3373911207 #yiv3373911207 p.yiv3373911207MsoNormal, #yiv3373911207 li.yiv3373911207MsoNormal, #yiv3373911207 div.yiv3373911207MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3373911207 a:link, #yiv3373911207 span.yiv3373911207MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3373911207 span.yiv3373911207EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3373911207 .yiv3373911207MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv3373911207 div.yiv3373911207WordSection1 {}#yiv3373911207 I?ve got one of these. I?d say that it was adequate for an amateur (me). The taps and dies are OK, but the tools are pretty marginal. Worth the money. Simon ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 12 May 2020 23:28 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies ? just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners.? Amazon sells a BSF tap and die set for $36. ? https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 ? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 13 01:44:27 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:44:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Singapore Healey In-Reply-To: <005701d627e1$9d616920$d8243b60$@tpg.com.au> References: <20200511213608.138EDA10FC@autox.team.net> <005701d627e1$9d616920$d8243b60$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: There aren't that many old cars in Singapore because every 6 or 10 years or something like that you have to re-up the importation tax which is a boatload of dosh. Hong Kong has a much more vibrant classic car scene with about 5 or 6 austin healeys... but here the challenge is finding someone who can do decent paint. On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 6:34 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > The Australian clubs have a number of members who live in Singapore as > well as cars here that were originally delivered new to what the Heritage > Certificates indicate Malaya. > > > > Being part of the British Commonwealth, Malaya (Singapore became a > separate country in 1965) was an important market for British cars, > although having been there I don?t know whether it?s a good climate for > Austin-Healeys as it?s almost on the Equator and bloody hot all year. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Perry > via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, 12 May 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Singapore Healey > > > > Was reading a story on line about the virus and the photo attached to the > story showed an Austin Healey. Looks like a white BN4 right hand drive. > There was a reference to Singapore. Don?t see that very often in current > affairs. > > Anyone on the list? > > Perry > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Wed May 13 05:12:01 2020 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 07:12:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies. I have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside). I don't know the die size to use. A 1/2" die seems way too small. Anyone know what size die to use? the number of threads doesn't matter---just the size of the die.ThanksTom ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that..Mike M On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 11:33:41 PM PDT, wrote: I?ve got one of these. I?d say that it was adequate for an amateur (me). The taps and dies are OK, but the tools are pretty marginal. Worth the money.Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLeanSent: 12 May 2020 23:28To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners. Amazon sells a BSF tap and die set for $36. https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 Mike MacLeanSent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed May 13 07:49:45 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:49:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Message-ID: <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> Tom, If the pipe is 1/2" outside diameter, then a 1/2"-13 UNC or 20 UNF die would be used. Pipe is usually given by the inside diameter and normally has tapered threads (NPT), in the US. A 1/2" pipe would use a 1/2" NPT die which is much larger than the 1/2"-13 or 20 dies. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/13/20 7:12 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies.? I > have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside).? I > don't know the die size to use.? A 1/2" die seems way too small.? Anyone > know what size die to use?? the number of threads doesn't matter---just > the size of the die. > Thanks > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael MacLean > To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan > > Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies > > > I just want them to clean up threads.? Should be adequate for that.. > Mike M > > > On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 11:33:41 PM PDT, > wrote: > > > I?ve got one of these. I?d say that it was adequate for an amateur (me). > The taps and dies are OK, but the tools are pretty marginal. Worth the > money. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *Michael > MacLean > *Sent:* 12 May 2020 23:28 > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies > > just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners.? Amazon sells a > BSF tap and die set for $36. > > https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 > > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 13 08:28:35 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 07:28:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Look what I found! In-Reply-To: References: <55490fca-a14f-4eae-b539-39342fb65cd2@me.com> Message-ID: Anybody seen it better than $4.38/qt (by the 2-pack)? https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pack-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-SAE-20W-50-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/384213070?selected=true Y'all snarfing it up? There was 'Only 6 left' when I first checked this morning; 10 minutes later there was 'Only 2 left.'? Free shipping if you buy enough to fill a Big Healey On 5/12/2020 7:51 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I get it at NAPA. Haven?t seen any sales on it though... > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Steven > Kingsbury via Healeys > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2020 12:54 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Look what I found! > NFI, but went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts today and look what was in > stock! I live in northern California, so if we can get it here, I'm > sure it can be gotten anywhere! > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 13 09:17:51 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 08:17:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> My (somewhat limited) experience is that the so-called 'dies' are really only thread chasers. If you try to use them to actually thread, say, a pipe or rod the die will wander laterally and you won't get a straight thread. I don't know if actual 'dies' are available outside a machine shop but, probably the only way to get a straight thread is with a lathe. On 5/13/2020 6:49 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Tom, > > If the pipe is 1/2" outside diameter, then a 1/2"-13 UNC or 20 UNF die > would be used.? Pipe is usually given by the inside diameter and > normally has tapered threads (NPT), in the US.? A 1/2" pipe would use > a 1/2" NPT die which is much larger than the 1/2"-13 or 20 dies. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 5/13/20 7:12 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies.? >> I have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside).? >> I don't know the die size to use.? A 1/2" die seems way too small.? >> Anyone know what size die to use?? the number of threads doesn't >> matter---just the size of the die. >> Thanks >> Tom >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan >> >> Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies >> >> >> I just want them to clean up threads.? Should be adequate for that.. >> Mike M >> > From rianhey at btinternet.com Wed May 13 09:42:07 2020 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:42:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Message-ID: <001201d6293d$0f27aa90$2d76ffb0$@btinternet.com> Half inch BSP British Standard Pipe thread is actually an approved thread in the European metric system. Ian From: Healeys On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: 13 May 2020 12:12 To: Michael MacLean Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies. I have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside). I don't know the die size to use. A 1/2" die seems way too small. Anyone know what size die to use? the number of threads doesn't matter---just the size of the die. Thanks Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean > To: 'Healeys' >, simon lachlan > Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that.. Mike M On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 11:33:41 PM PDT, > wrote: I?ve got one of these. I?d say that it was adequate for an amateur (me). The taps and dies are OK, but the tools are pretty marginal. Worth the money. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 12 May 2020 23:28 To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies just a FYI for those of you dealing with BSF fasteners. Amazon sells a BSF tap and die set for $36. https://smile.amazon.com/BSF-20pc-British-Standard-Fine/dp/B01MCZHN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1 &keywords=AB+Tools-Toolzone&qid=1589322431&sr=8-5 Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 13 09:46:15 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 11:46:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blue tonneau cover for sale Message-ID: <05c301d6293d$a3b09190$eb11b4b0$@rr.com> Hello, Healeyphiles - Had a message from a former BJ8 owner that he has a blue full tonneau cover for sale. Says it is in perfect condition, about $500 new from Moss, but he would let it go for half that. Photo attached. Contact Lynn Bowles: 6801 Alabama Hwy SW, Rome, GA 30165 lynn102050 at gmail.com 706-252-0183 We now return you to our regularly-scheduled Healeys list.. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Blue tonneau cover Type: application/octet-stream Size: 377353 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 13 10:46:28 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:46:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <008701d62946$0cef0990$26cd1cb0$@sbcglobal.net> With the correctly sized die for the pipe or rod, threads can be cut. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 8:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies My (somewhat limited) experience is that the so-called 'dies' are really only thread chasers. If you try to use them to actually thread, say, a pipe or rod the die will wander laterally and you won't get a straight thread. I don't know if actual 'dies' are available outside a machine shop but, probably the only way to get a straight thread is with a lathe. On 5/13/2020 6:49 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Tom, > > If the pipe is 1/2" outside diameter, then a 1/2"-13 UNC or 20 UNF die > would be used. Pipe is usually given by the inside diameter and > normally has tapered threads (NPT), in the US. A 1/2" pipe would use > a 1/2" NPT die which is much larger than the 1/2"-13 or 20 dies. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 5/13/20 7:12 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies. I >> have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside). >> I don't know the die size to use. A 1/2" die seems way too small. >> Anyone know what size die to use? the number of threads doesn't >> matter---just the size of the die. >> Thanks >> Tom >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan >> >> Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies >> >> >> I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that.. >> Mike M >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From schottc at knology.net Wed May 13 13:10:56 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:10:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <759305318.1273295.1589397056250.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> The holder for the better tap and die kits have a built in guide to keep the die straight. No problem with cutting an inch or more of thread. Regards, Chalie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 10:17:51 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies My (somewhat limited) experience is that the so-called 'dies' are really only thread chasers. If you try to use them to actually thread, say, a pipe or rod the die will wander laterally and you won't get a straight thread. I don't know if actual 'dies' are available outside a machine shop but, probably the only way to get a straight thread is with a lathe. On 5/13/2020 6:49 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Tom, > > If the pipe is 1/2" outside diameter, then a 1/2"-13 UNC or 20 UNF die > would be used. Pipe is usually given by the inside diameter and > normally has tapered threads (NPT), in the US. A 1/2" pipe would use > a 1/2" NPT die which is much larger than the 1/2"-13 or 20 dies. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 5/13/20 7:12 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies. >> I have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside). >> I don't know the die size to use. A 1/2" die seems way too small. >> Anyone know what size die to use? the number of threads doesn't >> matter---just the size of the die. >> Thanks >> Tom >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan >> >> Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies >> >> >> I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that.. >> Mike M >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed May 13 13:30:50 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:30:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Taps and Dies In-Reply-To: <008701d62946$0cef0990$26cd1cb0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <1981549236.124615.1589322486296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1981549236.124615.1589322486296@mail.yahoo.com> <002801d628f0$7050e4a0$50f2ade0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1166052159.299640.1589352688328@mail.yahoo.com> <349451441.85303946.1589368321874.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <9221631f-9e47-ae9b-1826-6ae8907d0fef@earthlink.net> <40b43089-691a-2698-9cc3-6ec37d7b25c2@comcast.net> <008701d62946$0cef0990$26cd1cb0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Dies are intended to cut new male threads on a pipe or rod. That operation is called threading. A tap is intended to cut female threads in a hole, thus called tapping. Both taps and dies can be used to chase an existing thread, process is chasing. Trick to getting clean, straight threads with a die is to make a chamfer on the end of the pipe or rod, about 30 degrees works well. To Tom?s original question it would seem it would take a smaller diameter thread size than a ? inch die to form a usable thread on a ? inch outer diameter pipe. The root or minor diameter of the ? inch thread is just slightly less than the pipe. However at this point I?m all tapped out?? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: John Spaur Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 1:39 PM To: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies With the correctly sized die for the pipe or rod, threads can be cut. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 8:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies My (somewhat limited) experience is that the so-called 'dies' are really only thread chasers. If you try to use them to actually thread, say, a pipe or rod the die will wander laterally and you won't get a straight thread. I don't know if actual 'dies' are available outside a machine shop but, probably the only way to get a straight thread is with a lathe. On 5/13/2020 6:49 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Tom, > > If the pipe is 1/2" outside diameter, then a 1/2"-13 UNC or 20 UNF die > would be used. Pipe is usually given by the inside diameter and > normally has tapered threads (NPT), in the US. A 1/2" pipe would use > a 1/2" NPT die which is much larger than the 1/2"-13 or 20 dies. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 5/13/20 7:12 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> Totally off Healey content, but here is a stupid question Re. dies. I >> have a piece of 1/2" OD steel pipe I want to thread (the outside). >> I don't know the die size to use. A 1/2" die seems way too small. >> Anyone know what size die to use? the number of threads doesn't >> matter---just the size of the die. >> Thanks >> Tom >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: 'Healeys' , simon lachlan >> >> Sent: Wed, 13 May 2020 02:51:28 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies >> >> >> I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that.. >> Mike M >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sgerow2 at gmail.com Wed May 13 13:56:10 2020 From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 12:56:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies Message-ID: You can grind a groove lengthwise in a 3/8-24 bolt's threads and use that to clean up the threads. >>> From: Michael MacLean To: "'Healeys'" , Cc: Bcc: Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 06:51:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BSF Taps and Dies I just want them to clean up threads. Should be adequate for that.. Mike M -- *Steve Gerow* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 13 14:46:18 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:46:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Blue tonneau cover for sale -- second try In-Reply-To: <05c301d6293d$a3b09190$eb11b4b0$@rr.com> References: <05c301d6293d$a3b09190$eb11b4b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <05fe01d62967$8e1c06a0$aa5413e0$@rr.com> Sorry, it seems I didn't include a file extension on the tonneau cover photo. Trying again. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 11:46 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Blue tonneau cover for sale Hello, Healeyphiles - Had a message from a former BJ8 owner that he has a blue full tonneau cover for sale. Says it is in perfect condition, about $500 new from Moss, but he would let it go for half that. Photo attached. Contact Lynn Bowles: 6801 Alabama Hwy SW, Rome, GA 30165 lynn102050 at gmail.com 706-252-0183 We now return you to our regularly-scheduled Healeys list.. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Blue tonneau cover.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 387084 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 13 15:42:54 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:42:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Possible Team Net outage Message-ID: <06c7d3f8-bbeb-5a4c-617f-b00102f895df@bradakis.com> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some profession tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu May 14 06:21:43 2020 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 08:21:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you! Internally thread tube, welded to the frame... do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame? Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom wrote: > > How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the > frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are > there captive nuts inside the frame? > > thanks, > Tom > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu May 14 08:31:32 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 14:31:32 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes Part Three Message-ID: I think I found the problem! Now to find the correct rings! Steven Kingsbury BN1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200513_152433.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3219967 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Thu May 14 09:44:35 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 15:44:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: ?do the welds ever break and ...? Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread with a 3/8? UNF (SAE) thread tap. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Tom Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you! Internally thread tube, welded to the frame... do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame? Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom > wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 14 10:05:30 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:05:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes Part Three In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How about a new piston? Those ring fragments surely did some damage to its groove? Hopefully the bore is OK. There looks to be a fair amount of wear on the piston skirt. Could be the flash from the camera though. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2020 om 16:31 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys: > I think I found the problem! Now to find the correct rings! > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > IMG_20200513_152433.jpg > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200513_152433.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3219967 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu May 14 12:36:53 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:36:53 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes Part Three Message-ID: Taking the piston to a machine shop today, the same one that did my head and will have more answers after that. The cylinder wall matches the other three quite nicely. Doesn't appear to be any damage or scoring. Lucked out there, but will re-hone before anything goes back in. Steven? On May 14, 2020 at 11:10 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: How about a new piston? Those ring fragments surely did some damage to its groove? Hopefully the bore is OK. There looks to be a fair amount of wear on the piston skirt. Could be the flash from the camera though. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2020 om 16:31 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys: I think I found the problem! Now to find the correct rings! Steven Kingsbury BN1 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gpaquett at aol.com Thu May 14 14:33:59 2020 From: gpaquett at aol.com (gpaquett at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:33:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Head Complete References: <1538239915.269189.1589488439477.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1538239915.269189.1589488439477@mail.yahoo.com> I have a 100 head taken off my BN1 when I upgraded to alloy head. It was running good when removed. Since I sold the car, I have no need for it. I live in Mesa AZ. Ph 413 684 3927. I am looking for offers. Gerry Paquette. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 14 17:35:46 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 23:35:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Moss Videos References: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731@mail.yahoo.com> All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu May 14 19:22:01 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:22:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss Videos In-Reply-To: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1289247801.534157.1589499346731@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From flyhihealey at gmail.com Thu May 14 17:52:38 2020 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 19:52:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball Message-ID: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0@mx.google.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 14 21:22:03 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:22:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball In-Reply-To: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0@mx.google.com> References: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <9c936bf1-e08e-c766-c8e5-a8b195e26a8e@comcast.net> I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm.? Same size as the ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I bought a bag of them for spares. Bob On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: > > Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return > valve and where I might get one > > locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last > thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started > to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. > > Thanks, > > WD 67 BJ8 > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu May 14 22:56:58 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:56:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball In-Reply-To: <9c936bf1-e08e-c766-c8e5-a8b195e26a8e@comcast.net> References: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0@mx.google.com> <9c936bf1-e08e-c766-c8e5-a8b195e26a8e@comcast.net> Message-ID: <003401d62a75$443bfa90$ccb3efb0$@sbcglobal.net> I have a box of seat slide ball bearings I bought nearly 50 years ago because that was the only way I could get them at the time! I found a link to buy a ?Loose ball? hahaha https://www.vxb.com/5-16-inch-Diameter-Chrome-Steel-Ball-Bearing-G10-p/Kit12268.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3MrOvYS16QIVEo3ICh3Z2w8-EAQYAiABEgLWu_D_BwE John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm. Same size as the ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I bought a bag of them for spares. Bob On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return valve and where I might get one locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. Thanks, WD 67 BJ8 Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri May 15 00:29:24 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 06:29:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Moss Videos In-Reply-To: References: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1289247801.534157.1589499346731@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1094892417.662484.1589524164026@mail.yahoo.com> OK, I see them there now.? I swear they were not ther this afternoon.Mike MacLean On Thursday, May 14, 2020, 6:22:05 PM PDT, Bob Haskell wrote: Mike, Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri May 15 12:31:40 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 18:31:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball Message-ID: <4dff1b42daa68ebd110f24a127c805df31679a37@webmail> Be careful here! There are two check ball valves and springs in the OD. The upper operating valve ball is different than the pump valve. Bob is correct on one size-but one is 5/16" but the other is 1/4"...if you reverse them you won't get overdrive pressure. I have the part numbers for each from the parts book, but that does not indicate the sizes. From the problem my friend had with no pressure at the pump valve, I'm thinking the 1/4" belongs there and the 5/16" is in the upper operating valve. He replaced the ball with the correct size and pressure returned. I just assembled an overdrive for a 100, but don't remember which is which-I did remember not to mix them up. Check the bore size to be sure if you do mix them while assembling. I'll recheck the Sept. 1954 parts book to see if a size is mentioned for each. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Thursday May 14 2020 8:48:13PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm. Same size as the ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I bought a bag of them for spares. Bob On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return valve and where I might get one locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. Thanks, WD 67 BJ8 Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 Links: ------ [1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun May 17 10:41:03 2020 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 16:41:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 Disc Brake Option In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1400079186.454263.1589733664115@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Michael.? This is somewhat late but the attached files may be of some interest. ?Read from last page & bottom up. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Sunday, May 10, 2020, 10:10:19 a.m. EDT, Michael Salter wrote: I'm putting together an article for the Concours Guidelines on the optional 100/6 Dunlop disc brakes.Does anyone by chance happen to have any original published material;? brochures, maintenance instructions etc on this very rare option.??I would really appreciate a copy. Michael Salter?Austin Healey Concours Committee?Technical Chairman.?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Disc Brakes-100-6.doc Type: application/msword Size: 347136 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Disc Brakes on 100-6 [Derek Job].doc Type: application/msword Size: 1760768 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100-6 Disc brakes Conversion.doc Type: application/msword Size: 1362432 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun May 17 14:40:20 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 13:40:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> I would think it would take some serious over-tightening to break the tube loose. Probably strip the threads before that would happen. I chased the threads from both sides when I took my bumper off and I've had no problems. My current configuration has the chin scoop on the inside of the rails and the tow eyes sandwiched between the outside of the rails and the aux light brackets. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:45 AM To: Tom ; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets "do the welds ever break and ..." Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread with a 3/8" UNF (SAE) thread tap. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Tom > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM To: Healey Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you! Internally thread tube, welded to the frame... do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame? Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom > wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0536.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 101168 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0539.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91727 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun May 17 15:53:10 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 21:53:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> References: , , <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I had mulled over connecting a tow bar to that area but could not figure a way to attach it ('cause holes are 90 degrees from the tow mounting bracket). It is a VERY solid place to connect something so your bumpers would be no problem. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 1:40 PM To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' ; 'Tom' ; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets I would think it would take some serious over-tightening to break the tube loose. Probably strip the threads before that would happen. I chased the threads from both sides when I took my bumper off and I?ve had no problems. My current configuration has the chin scoop on the inside of the rails and the tow eyes sandwiched between the outside of the rails and the aux light brackets. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:45 AM To: Tom ; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets ?do the welds ever break and ...? Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread with a 3/8? UNF (SAE) thread tap. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys > on behalf of Tom > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM To: Healey Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you! Internally thread tube, welded to the frame... do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame? Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom > wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are there captive nuts inside the frame? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 17 16:12:54 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:12:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> References: , <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: In a land far, far away, 2500 miles west of California?a land of sunshine and rain. Little English beasts , known as Austin Healeys, used to inhabit the hills and valleys, mountains and shorelines. The sun kept them warm, the rain and salty air often moistened their lightly protected steel underbellies and the dreaded enemy of the beasts brought upon them a scourge, RUST. On many occasions during four decades living among the beasts, in the land of sunshine and rain, I witnessed the results of the scourge. In several cases the scourge caused body parts to fall off the beasts, including the shiny steel bars that originally graced the front and rear of the beast. The rear bar had more protection but the front suffered from over exposure. The little retaining tubes that faithfully held the shiny bar to the underbelly would succumb to the scourge and the bar would eventually droop and the death rattle could be heard as the beasts would traverse the land of sunshine and rain. Fortunately there was several hearty souls that cared for the beasts in their time of testing and trials. This was in the days before the Master, Kilmartin, recreated every part of the beasts that had contracted the scourge. Back then, crude substitutes for the original wonderfully formed underbellies where made to replace the damaged areas and re-establish the connections between the underbelly and the shiny bars supports. As stories go, the little beasts would let out a small puff of smoke just to let everyone know how glad they were for the attention received. A smile and a shiny bar?.what more could we ask for, except maybe an electrician. Hope everyone is safe and well in this time of difficulty for many. ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 5:04 PM To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Tom'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets I would think it would take some serious over-tightening to break the tube loose.? Probably strip the threads before that would happen.? I chased the threads from both sides when I took my bumper off and I?ve had no problems.? My current configuration has the chin scoop on the inside of the rails and the tow eyes sandwiched between the outside of the rails and the aux light brackets. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:45 AM To: Tom ; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets ?do the welds ever break and ...?? Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread with a 3/8? UNF (SAE) thread tap. Bill Lawrence? BN1 #554 From: Healeys on behalf of Tom Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets ? Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you!? ? Internally thread tube, welded to the frame...? do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame?? ?Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame?? ?Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame?? ?Or are there captive nuts inside the frame??? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: B703463F2C4F4F4E8F54A59ABE92E582.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun May 17 16:12:54 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:12:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> References: , <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: In a land far, far away, 2500 miles west of California?a land of sunshine and rain. Little English beasts , known as Austin Healeys, used to inhabit the hills and valleys, mountains and shorelines. The sun kept them warm, the rain and salty air often moistened their lightly protected steel underbellies and the dreaded enemy of the beasts brought upon them a scourge, RUST. On many occasions during four decades living among the beasts, in the land of sunshine and rain, I witnessed the results of the scourge. In several cases the scourge caused body parts to fall off the beasts, including the shiny steel bars that originally graced the front and rear of the beast. The rear bar had more protection but the front suffered from over exposure. The little retaining tubes that faithfully held the shiny bar to the underbelly would succumb to the scourge and the bar would eventually droop and the death rattle could be heard as the beasts would traverse the land of sunshine and rain. Fortunately there was several hearty souls that cared for the beasts in their time of testing and trials. This was in the days before the Master, Kilmartin, recreated every part of the beasts that had contracted the scourge. Back then, crude substitutes for the original wonderfully formed underbellies where made to replace the damaged areas and re-establish the connections between the underbelly and the shiny bars supports. As stories go, the little beasts would let out a small puff of smoke just to let everyone know how glad they were for the attention received. A smile and a shiny bar?.what more could we ask for, except maybe an electrician. Hope everyone is safe and well in this time of difficulty for many. ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 5:04 PM To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Tom'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets I would think it would take some serious over-tightening to break the tube loose.? Probably strip the threads before that would happen.? I chased the threads from both sides when I took my bumper off and I?ve had no problems.? My current configuration has the chin scoop on the inside of the rails and the tow eyes sandwiched between the outside of the rails and the aux light brackets. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:45 AM To: Tom ; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets ?do the welds ever break and ...?? Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread with a 3/8? UNF (SAE) thread tap. Bill Lawrence? BN1 #554 From: Healeys on behalf of Tom Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM To: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets ? Mike, Skip, Bruce, Thank you!? ? Internally thread tube, welded to the frame...? do the welds ever break and the tubes just turn inside the frame?? ?Sounds like something I'll leave well enough alone! - Tom On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom wrote: How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the frame?? ?Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame?? ?Or are there captive nuts inside the frame??? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: B703463F2C4F4F4E8F54A59ABE92E582.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 17 16:28:55 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 22:28:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder engine.? The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration.? Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine.? No Fram please.? On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters listed.? Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun May 17 16:40:05 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:40:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I normally use the 2009 but on one occasion purchased a Royal Purple equivalent. The filter material was entirely different than others--I seem to recall its being like FG mat rather than corrugated paper, etc. It was a bear to get open. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:29 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder > engine. The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration. > Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine. No Fram > please. On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters > listed. Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 17 16:58:24 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 23:58:24 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d62c9e$acec4ab0$06c4e010$@alexarevel.plus.com> I used a K&N HP-2009 in my 3000 for a while. At the time, someone was saying that there were 2 versions. One US made & one Mexican. Let?s just say that he said that one was better than the other. The ones over here were US made. Seemed good to me? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 17 May 2020 23:29 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder engine. The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration. Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine. No Fram please. On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters listed. Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 17 17:16:34 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 16:16:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> Wix 51516.? I bought a case years ago; I'm set for life (for both the BN2 and BJ8): *https://tinyurl.com/yaby4he7* On 5/17/2020 3:28 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder > engine.? The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an > illustration.? Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for > this engine.? No Fram please.? On oilfilter-crossreference.com there > are four NAPA filters listed.? Just wondering what is being used that > is commonly available. > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 17 23:57:24 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 22:57:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Batteries: The Power Behind Electrification Message-ID: https://partners.time.com/partners/kia-motors-europe/the-power-behind-electrification/?prx_t=yncFA5LU-A_U0PA&utm_campaign=148892 Ira Erbs Portland, OR phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon May 18 06:39:23 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 05:39:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> NAPA Gold is made by WIX. As I recall, both rated highly. This article was updated in 2008, so not terribly current, but may be of interest. http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:17 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter Wix 51516. I bought a case years ago; I'm set for life (for both the BN2 and BJ8): https://tinyurl.com/yaby4he7 On 5/17/2020 3:28 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder engine. The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration. Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine. No Fram please. On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters listed. Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 18 08:38:46 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 07:38:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I've cut several of the Wix open; they are well made. On 5/18/2020 5:39 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > NAPA Gold is made by WIX.? As I recall, both rated highly.? This > article was updated in 2008, so not terribly current, but may be of > interest. > > http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:17 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter > > Wix 51516.? I bought a case years ago; I'm set for life (for both the > BN2 and BJ8): > > *https://tinyurl.com/yaby4he7* > > On 5/17/2020 3:28 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 > cylinder engine.? The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an > illustration.? Just wondering what other filters are appropriate > for this engine.? No Fram please.? On oilfilter-crossreference.com > there are four NAPA filters listed.? Just wondering what is being > used that is commonly available. > > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon May 18 08:46:44 2020 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 14:46:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1469555271.920307.1589813204575@mail.yahoo.com> Bruce, Your link goes to a message saying :"Oil Filter Study Moved!" Here is the new link address. "Oil Filters Revealed" "Overview" http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html Larry Wendland Atlanta, GA 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 8:39 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter NAPA Gold is made by WIX.? As I recall, both rated highly.? This article was updated in 2008, so not terribly current, but may be of interest. ? http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html ? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:17 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter ? Wix 51516.? I bought a case years ago; I'm set for life (for both the BN2 and BJ8): https://tinyurl.com/yaby4he7 On 5/17/2020 3:28 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder engine.? The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration.? Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine.? No Fram please.? On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters listed.? Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available. Mike MacLean ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon May 18 16:21:33 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 15:21:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <1469555271.920307.1589813204575@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1138770482.564184.1589754535286.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1138770482.564184.1589754535286@mail.yahoo.com> <0892f15b-4501-44da-820a-a1be398dedc3@comcast.net> <02b901d62d11$5c6f2490$154d6db0$@roadrunner.com> <1469555271.920307.1589813204575@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <041701d62d62$b04d7700$10e86500$@roadrunner.com> OOPS. Right you are! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k at aim.com] Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 7:47 AM To: healeybruce at roadrunner.com; bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter Bruce, Your link goes to a message saying :"Oil Filter Study Moved!" Here is the new link address. "Oil Filters Revealed" "Overview" http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html Larry Wendland Atlanta, GA 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 8:39 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter NAPA Gold is made by WIX. As I recall, both rated highly. This article was updated in 2008, so not terribly current, but may be of interest. http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:17 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Filter Wix 51516. I bought a case years ago; I'm set for life (for both the BN2 and BJ8): https://tinyurl.com/yaby4he7 On 5/17/2020 3:28 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: I just installed the Moss spin on oil filter assembly on my 4 cylinder engine. The instructions show a K&N HP-2009 filter in an illustration. Just wondering what other filters are appropriate for this engine. No Fram please. On oilfilter-crossreference.com there are four NAPA filters listed. Just wondering what is being used that is commonly available. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From banjojohn at cox.net Mon May 18 18:13:57 2020 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 19:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker Message-ID: Hi allA while back there was a thread abour wind blockers, and I asked about where I could find a picture.? I never found anything on the LBCars site, (likely user error)Anyway, I decided to try to build one for my BJ8, and I think it came out fairly well.? I used the drain hole brackets down in the body just behind the doors as sockets to put the 5/16 steel rods into.? I bent the rod to get the right angles to hold the bottom frame down against the tonneau support frame and added a couple straps with snaps that could snap to the snaps already on the tonneau to make sure it doesnt come loose.? The bottom frame is made of 2 pieces of 3/4 ? 1 oak with a piece of oak cove moulding attached to the bottom of the front one to fit over the tonneau frame rail.? The "glass" is a piece of 1/8" lexan 9" x 38" sandwiched between the 2 oak pieces.? I made mine 38 inches wide so it can be stowed on or under the parcel shelf whan not in use.Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 18 22:39:38 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 04:39:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Whatsit? References: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone know what the heck this small flat plate andslotted screw are?? They are located on the forward left side of my 100 engine backplate.? It's the only one on the backplate.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200518_213524.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2478915 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon May 18 23:38:21 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 22:38:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Whatsit? In-Reply-To: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, These are RARE and often missing. They are small blanking plates (2) one on either side of the engine on the rear steel plate as you have stated. There are there to cover up three (on each side ) 1/4" BSF tapped holes. Typically I don't recall these being used on BN2s, only BN1s, but the Concours Registry is unclear on this point. I have them on my car. Cheers, Curt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_6137.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 213716 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_6140.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 214729 bytes Desc: not available URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Mon May 18 23:45:40 2020 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 15:45:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Whatsit? In-Reply-To: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601d62da0$bb174510$3145cf30$@cosmos.net.au> They are the attachment holes for the column change gearshift mechanism on Austin A70 / Austin Atlantic sedans. And Austin A70 Utes J Regards Larry Varley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Tue May 19 02:53:14 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 09:53:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Whatsit? In-Reply-To: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael When this engine rear back plate was used on A70 Hereford and other similar vehicles; they had column gear change, do you call it shifter? There was a semi flexible cross link between the body and the engine. On these cars there was the bearing casting that bolted on at this point. To fit a small cover over this hole seemed to be a little excessive but they did it so BN1s and BN2 should have it to be correct. Best regards On Tue, 19 May 2020 at 05:40, Michael MacLean wrote: > Anyone know what the heck this small flat plate andslotted screw are? > They are located on the forward left side of my 100 engine backplate. It's > the only one on the backplate. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200518_213524.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2478915 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue May 19 07:20:46 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 09:20:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker In-Reply-To: <20200519001629.61318A0F6E@autox.team.net> References: <20200519001629.61318A0F6E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <031901d62de0$4e9e4dd0$ebdae970$@gmail.com> Hi John: Sounds like a good design with available materials. I will have to come up with fasteners screwed to the underside of my wind blocker bought from LBCARCO. Maybe lift-the-dot fastener and studs will do. Meanwhile, a 1 inch pvc pipe is doing the job. I enjoy mine so much may never put up the top in SW Florida as the car is in the garage during the rainy season. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys On Behalf Of banjojohn Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 8:14 PM To: healeys at autox team. net Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker Hi all A while back there was a thread abour wind blockers, and I asked about where I could find a picture. I never found anything on the LBCars site, (likely user error) Anyway, I decided to try to build one for my BJ8, and I think it came out fairly well. I used the drain hole brackets down in the body just behind the doors as sockets to put the 5/16 steel rods into. I bent the rod to get the right angles to hold the bottom frame down against the tonneau support frame and added a couple straps with snaps that could snap to the snaps already on the tonneau to make sure it doesnt come loose. The bottom frame is made of 2 pieces of 3/4 ? 1 oak with a piece of oak cove moulding attached to the bottom of the front one to fit over the tonneau frame rail. The "glass" is a piece of 1/8" lexan 9" x 38" sandwiched between the 2 oak pieces. I made mine 38 inches wide so it can be stowed on or under the parcel shelf whan not in use. Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 19 07:45:30 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 15:45:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Whatsit? In-Reply-To: References: <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1996055017.1303263.1589863178690@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0f7505a6-5ffb-4ab1-db29-e4bcaa7bd256@chello.nl> Is that a hair line crack next to the object in question? Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-5-2020 om 10:53 schreef John Harper: > Michael > > When this engine rear back plate was used on A70 Hereford and other > similar vehicles; they had column?gear change, do you call it shifter? > > There was a semi flexible cross link between?the body and the engine. > On these cars there was the bearing casting that bolted on at this point. > > To fit a small cover over this hole seemed?to be a little excessive > but they did it so BN1s and BN2 should have it to be correct. > > Best regards > > On Tue, 19 May 2020 at 05:40, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > Anyone know what the heck this small flat plate andslotted screw > are?? They are located on the forward left side of my 100 engine > backplate.? It's the only one on the backplate. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > > -- > Best wishes > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200518_213524.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2478915 bytes Desc: not available URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sun May 17 17:00:39 2020 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:00:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets In-Reply-To: References: <011901d62c8b$62197480$264c5d80$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Thirty-five or so years ago I made a tow bar assy. for flat towing a Big Healey. It connected to the inside of the threaded tubes in the front frame rails, the same ones the bumper brackets attach to on the outside. I made it so it was a separate subframe that could be left on the car if necessary, just removing the towing arms and hitch receiver. It also could be used with the front bumper still attached. It worked well, but I only used it a few times. I still have the unit. Neil Anderson BT7 Northern Illinois On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:54 PM Richard Kahn wrote: > I had mulled over connecting a tow bar to that area but could not figure a > way to attach it ('cause holes are 90 degrees from the tow mounting > bracket). It is a VERY solid place to connect something so your bumpers > would be no problem. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bruce > Steele > *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2020 1:40 PM > *To:* 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' ; 'Tom' ; > 'Healey Mail List' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets > > > I would think it would take some serious over-tightening to break the tube > loose. Probably strip the threads before that would happen. I chased the > threads from both sides when I took my bumper off and I?ve had no > problems. My current configuration has the chin scoop on the inside of the > rails and the tow eyes sandwiched between the outside of the rails and the > aux light brackets. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM > B LAWRENCE > *Sent:* Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:45 AM > *To:* Tom ; Healey Mail List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets > > > > ?do the welds ever break and ...? > > > > Highly unlikely. The tubes are of a heavy gauge and are welded all the way > around on both ends. They are not just spot welded. If you are concerned > that the bolt may be too tight going into the tube you can clean the thread > with a 3/8? UNF (SAE) thread tap. > > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Tom < > ah3000me at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Thursday, May 14, 2020 12:21 PM > *To:* Healey Mail List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bumper support brackets > > > > Mike, Skip, Bruce, > > > > Thank you! > > > > Internally thread tube, welded to the frame... do the welds ever break > and the tubes just turn inside the frame? Sounds like something I'll > leave well enough alone! > > > > - Tom > > > > On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 9:12 PM Tom wrote: > > > > How do the brackets that support the BJ8 front bumper attach to the > frame? Is there one long bolt that goes clear thru the frame? Or are > there captive nuts inside the frame? > > > > thanks, > > Tom > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue May 19 14:40:22 2020 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 20:40:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker In-Reply-To: <031901d62de0$4e9e4dd0$ebdae970$@gmail.com> References: <20200519001629.61318A0F6E@autox.team.net> <031901d62de0$4e9e4dd0$ebdae970$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <860408670.1738932.1589920822756@mail.yahoo.com> Bob & John?? Please post some pictures of your wind blockers. I would love to see how they came out.Ray On Tuesday, May 19, 2020, 6:28:19 AM PDT, Robert Begani wrote: Hi John: ? Sounds like a good design with available materials.? I will have to come up with fasteners screwed to the underside of my wind blocker bought from LBCARCO.? Maybe lift-the-dot fastener and studs will do. ?Meanwhile, a 1 inch pvc pipe is doing the job.? I enjoy mine so much may never put up the top in SW Florida as the car is in the garage during the rainy season. ? Bob Begani 67 BJ8 ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of banjojohn Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 8:14 PM To: healeys at autox team. net Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker ? Hi all A while back there was a thread abour wind blockers, and I asked about where I could find a picture.? I never found anything on the LBCars site, (likely user error) Anyway, I decided to try to build one for my BJ8, and I think it came out fairly well.? I used the drain hole brackets down in the body just behind the doors as sockets to put the 5/16 steel rods into.? I bent the rod to get the right angles to hold the bottom frame down against the tonneau support frame and added a couple straps with snaps that could snap to the snaps already on the tonneau to make sure it doesnt come loose.? The bottom frame is made of 2 pieces of 3/4 ? 1 oak with a piece of oak cove moulding attached to the bottom of the front one to fit over the tonneau frame rail.? The "glass" is a piece of 1/8" lexan 9" x 38" sandwiched between the 2 oak pieces.? I made mine 38 inches wide so it can be stowed on or under the parcel shelf whan not in use. ? ? ? Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue May 19 14:58:13 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 13:58:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind blocker In-Reply-To: <860408670.1738932.1589920822756@mail.yahoo.com> References: <20200519001629.61318A0F6E@autox.team.net> <031901d62de0$4e9e4dd0$ebdae970$@gmail.com> <860408670.1738932.1589920822756@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: agreed and any measured drawings Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 1:45 PM Ray Juncal via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Bob & John > Please post some pictures of your wind blockers. I would love to see > how they came out. > Ray > > > On Tuesday, May 19, 2020, 6:28:19 AM PDT, Robert Begani < > rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hi John: > > > > Sounds like a good design with available materials. I will have to come > up with fasteners screwed to the underside of my wind blocker bought from > LBCARCO. Maybe lift-the-dot fastener and studs will do. Meanwhile, a 1 > inch pvc pipe is doing the job. I enjoy mine so much may never put up the > top in SW Florida as the car is in the garage during the rainy season. > > > > Bob Begani > > 67 BJ8 > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *banjojohn > *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 8:14 PM > *To:* healeys at autox team. net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Wind blocker > > > > Hi all > > A while back there was a thread abour wind blockers, and I asked about > where I could find a picture. I never found anything on the LBCars site, > (likely user error) > > Anyway, I decided to try to build one for my BJ8, and I think it came out > fairly well. I used the drain hole brackets down in the body just behind > the doors as sockets to put the 5/16 steel rods into. I bent the rod to > get the right angles to hold the bottom frame down against the tonneau > support frame and added a couple straps with snaps that could snap to the > snaps already on the tonneau to make sure it doesnt come loose. The bottom > frame is made of 2 pieces of 3/4 ? 1 oak with a piece of oak cove moulding > attached to the bottom of the front one to fit over the tonneau frame > rail. The "glass" is a piece of 1/8" lexan 9" x 38" sandwiched between the > 2 oak pieces. I made mine 38 inches wide so it can be stowed on or under > the parcel shelf whan not in use. > > > > > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed May 20 03:09:54 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 05:09:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wind blocker from LBCARCO Message-ID: <05dd01d62e86$6e4d8dc0$4ae8a940$@gmail.com> The attached photos are of the Wind Blocker installed on my BJ8 for those who asked for more pictures. I use the tonneau cover with the top down so the Florida Sun does not ruin the original back seat upholstery. You cannot see it. There is a one inch pvc pipe under the tonneau squeezed between the angle iron and pipe end piece of the frame. The pipe fits into the tonneau cover female pipe fixture. I will get around to use lift-the-dot or Tenax or some type of fasteners to attach the Tonneau to the underside frame of the wind blocker. Again, the wind blocker makes driving a roadster with the top down more delightful and you keep your hat on. Whether you make your own or buy it from LBCARCO (it is the quicker way to enjoy the ride and not a lot of money) is up to you guys. Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1312.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 551323 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1313.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 675126 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1314.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 502340 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1315.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 650552 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1316.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 537030 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1317.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 542780 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1318.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 485898 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1319.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 409929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed May 20 03:19:34 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 05:19:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wind blocker from LBCARCO Message-ID: <05e901d62e87$c70b2f70$55218e50$@gmail.com> For those who asked for more pictures of the wind blocker. The attached photos are of the Wind Blocker installed on my BJ8. I use the tonneau cover with the top down so the Florida Sun does not ruin the original back seat upholstery. You cannot see it. There is a one inch pvc pipe under the tonneau squeezed between the angle iron and pipe end piece of the frame. The pipe fits into the tonneau cover female pipe fixture. I will get around to use lift-the-dot or Tenax or some type of fasteners to attach the Tonneau to the underside frame of the wind blocker. Again, the wind blocker makes driving a roadster with the top down more delightful and you keep your hat on. Whether you make your own or buy it from LBCARCO (it is the quicker way to enjoy the ride and not a lot of money) is up to you guys. Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1312.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 551323 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_1319.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 409929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From paull at glasgows.co.uk Wed May 20 11:40:44 2020 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 18:40:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank update Message-ID: Hi all Just a quick update to say that I went with Elton's suggestion and used a 1/4" Male BSPP X 1/4" Female BSPP Swivel joint (see pic). Not concours, but seems to have done the job. I now have another quick question ... should the cork gasket for the sender unit be fitted dry or soaked in engine oil? Many thanks again! Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Pic 4.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3999461 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 20 13:13:07 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 12:13:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d62eda$b2a47980$17ed6c80$@sbcglobal.net> Use nonsetting Hylomar Universal Blue John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 10:41 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank update Hi all Just a quick update to say that I went with Elton's suggestion and used a 1/4" Male BSPP X 1/4" Female BSPP Swivel joint (see pic). Not concours, but seems to have done the job. I now have another quick question ... should the cork gasket for the sender unit be fitted dry or soaked in engine oil? Many thanks again! Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 20 18:32:09 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 00:32:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank update In-Reply-To: <000001d62eda$b2a47980$17ed6c80$@sbcglobal.net> References: <000001d62eda$b2a47980$17ed6c80$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1739444384.190918.1590021129768@mail.yahoo.com> Order Viton gasket set (sending unit top and sending unit to tank gaskets) from Moss also.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 12:16:58 PM PDT, John Spaur wrote: #yiv2010864845 #yiv2010864845 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2010864845 #yiv2010864845 p.yiv2010864845MsoNormal, #yiv2010864845 li.yiv2010864845MsoNormal, #yiv2010864845 div.yiv2010864845MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv2010864845 a:link, #yiv2010864845 span.yiv2010864845MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2010864845 a:visited, #yiv2010864845 span.yiv2010864845MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2010864845 p {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv2010864845 span.yiv2010864845EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv2010864845 .yiv2010864845MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv2010864845 div.yiv2010864845WordSection1 {}#yiv2010864845 Use nonsetting Hylomar Universal Blue John Spaur ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 10:41 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank update ? Hi all ? Just a quick update to say that I went with Elton's suggestion and used a 1/4" Male BSPP X 1/4" Female BSPP Swivel joint (see pic).? Not concours, but seems to have done the job. ? I now have another quick question ... should the cork gasket for the sender unit be fitted dry or soaked in engine oil? ? Many thanks again! ? Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 ? EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed May 20 21:30:51 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 20:30:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions Message-ID: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> Like many of you I been following the directives of our health officials and staying home with a lot of time on my hands. Fortunately I have an Austin Healey in a 1000 pieces to occupy my idle hands. I was continually looking up fastener descriptions from the Service Parts List and decided to develop an Excel spreadsheet that could be used to translate the BMC part number into a description that would work on an iPad. I sent a beta version to a few Healey Guru's and got some good suggestions on improvements. Thank-you for your input. This spreadsheet will work for almost all of the fastener part numbers (nuts, bolts, washers and screws) listed in the Anderson and Moment book plus a few more. Unfortunately it doesn't work for some of the specialty fasteners and the BA and BSW fasteners. If someone has an accurate list of the specialty fasteners they want to send to me I will add them. If using on an iPad I suggest Google Sheets. I know there are paper versions of the parts numbers but I found taking the iPad to the garage was a better solution. This spreadsheet has fastener listing from several different paper lists in one place. I hope this is helpful to others restoring their Healey. Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BMC Fasteners.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 184320 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cwbrown39 at gmail.com Wed May 20 23:34:54 2020 From: cwbrown39 at gmail.com (Healey List) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 01:34:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant Message-ID: What redline lube is used in the transmission Thanks Carl Brown Sent from my iPad From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu May 21 02:55:54 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 18:55:54 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?ve been using Redline MT90 for 18 years. It?s Perfect. Best Chris > On 21 May 2020, at 3:36 pm, Healey List wrote: > > ?What redline lube is used in the transmission > Thanks > Carl Brown > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu May 21 06:08:28 2020 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:08:28 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> I have to agree. ?BlueHealey? has it in the gearbox too. It is perfect. I?m told it has a greater propensity to leak than Dino oils so if you are already weeping a bit, usually from the overdrive flange, then MT90 may make it worse. Check out http://www.bluehealey.com/Gallery/Compression%20Struts/index.html Cheers. Alan - from my iPad > On 21 May 2020, at 10:04, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > ?I?ve been using Redline MT90 for 18 years. > It?s Perfect. > Best > Chris > >> On 21 May 2020, at 3:36 pm, Healey List wrote: >> >> ?What redline lube is used in the transmission >> Thanks >> Carl Brown >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu May 21 06:45:37 2020 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 08:45:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Heater cable replacement--BJ8 Message-ID: <1782681308.95829462.1590065137745.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Cable broke at the sliding control switch--will need to replace whole thing. anyone ever do this on a BJ8 and if so, any guidance? Can it be done w/o removing the center section of dash? assume not since you have to get to the heater control valve:)Thankstom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 21 08:09:35 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 07:09:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall Message-ID: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> If you've not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I've not used them frequently. I'm taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. Not sure what they'll do with the 2 that have a different part or batch number, but even with a different number they don't inspire great confidence. https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-56371_6119 6_61197.pdf Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 21 08:11:22 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 07:11:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant In-Reply-To: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> References: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> Message-ID: We use RedLine MTL gear lube. It is a 75/80 wt oil. Which is the same viscosity as 30wt engine oil. But it is a correct gear oil design and additives David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On May 21, 2020, at 5:11 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > ?I have to agree. ?BlueHealey? has it in the gearbox too. It is perfect. > I?m told it has a greater propensity to leak than Dino oils so if you are already weeping a bit, usually from the overdrive flange, then MT90 may make it worse. > Check out http://www.bluehealey.com/Gallery/Compression%20Struts/index.html > > Cheers. > > Alan - from my iPad > >>> On 21 May 2020, at 10:04, Chris Dimmock wrote: >>> >> ?I?ve been using Redline MT90 for 18 years. >> It?s Perfect. >> Best >> Chris >> >>> On 21 May 2020, at 3:36 pm, Healey List wrote: >>> >>> ?What redline lube is used in the transmission >>> Thanks >>> Carl Brown >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 21 08:11:22 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 07:11:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant In-Reply-To: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> References: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> Message-ID: We use RedLine MTL gear lube. It is a 75/80 wt oil. Which is the same viscosity as 30wt engine oil. But it is a correct gear oil design and additives David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On May 21, 2020, at 5:11 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > ?I have to agree. ?BlueHealey? has it in the gearbox too. It is perfect. > I?m told it has a greater propensity to leak than Dino oils so if you are already weeping a bit, usually from the overdrive flange, then MT90 may make it worse. > Check out http://www.bluehealey.com/Gallery/Compression%20Struts/index.html > > Cheers. > > Alan - from my iPad > >>> On 21 May 2020, at 10:04, Chris Dimmock wrote: >>> >> ?I?ve been using Redline MT90 for 18 years. >> It?s Perfect. >> Best >> Chris >> >>> On 21 May 2020, at 3:36 pm, Healey List wrote: >>> >>> ?What redline lube is used in the transmission >>> Thanks >>> Carl Brown >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu May 21 08:55:56 2020 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 10:55:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity Message-ID: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> Hi guys, Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near zero. Could someone interpret these findings for me? Thanks, as always. Lin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0608.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 431110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 09:07:42 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 08:07:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> References: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> Message-ID: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's how continuity works on your MM?).? The reading is probably ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').? It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some resistance). Bob On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > Hi guys, > Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark > plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable > pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. > Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix > cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I > would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. > > So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. > As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end > of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even > sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees > of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to > sound and the reading to drop to near zero. > > Could someone interpret these findings for me? > > Thanks, as always. > > Lin > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0608.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 431110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu May 21 09:34:46 2020 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:34:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> References: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> Message-ID: <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> Don?t know how distributor cap turned into radiator cap????? Lin Sent from my iPhone > On May 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) > > It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's how continuity works on your MM?).* The reading is probably ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').* It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some resistance). > > Bob > > > On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> Hi guys, >> Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. >> >> So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near zero. >> >> Could someone interpret these findings for me? >> >> Thanks, as always. >> >> Lin >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gilrockwell at gmail.com Thu May 21 09:49:11 2020 From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:49:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> References: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> Message-ID: <00d101d62f87$5f9e2b20$1eda8160$@gmail.com> Hi Lin, These are resistance wires to suppress ignition "noise" and that reading is fine, around 800 ohms, based on the fact you're using the continuity scale. Check the old one, it should be similar assuming the new connector pierced the insulation and into the core. The only wires that will register a low resistance reading are solid core, copper conductor wires, which cause extreme static in the radio in the car and the cars around you, which is why manufacturers switched to the resistance or "suppression" wires. Gil From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 10:56 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity Hi guys, Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near zero. Could someone interpret these findings for me? Thanks, as always. Lin -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 431110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu May 21 09:52:08 2020 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:52:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to Spark plug wire continuity Message-ID: Thanks everyone. I understand now and appreciate the quick responses! Lin Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 09:56:14 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 08:56:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> References: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> Message-ID: <8078ecc9-8ac3-a074-b975-19d409976833@comcast.net> I should have mentioned that even your test leads will have some resistance, so many/most/all MMs have a 'zero' function.? If you set the lower ohm range and cross the leads you'll get some milliohm reading, then when you press the zero function the MM will display zero ohms, so you don't have to do the math to calculate the actual reading of your circuit. On 5/21/2020 8:34 AM, Linwood Rose wrote: > Don?t know how distributor cap turned into radiator cap????? > Lin > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator >> cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) >> >> It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe >> that's how continuity works on your MM?).* The reading is probably >> ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn >> the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 >> omega').* It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which >> is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead >> (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper >> has some resistance). >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >>> Hi guys, >>> Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a >>> spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) >>> the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual >>> outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable >>> (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable >>> I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. >>> >>> So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH >>> Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to >>> each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not >>> sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I >>> suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I >>> guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near >>> zero. >>> >>> Could someone interpret these findings for me? >>> >>> Thanks, as always. >>> >>> Lin >>> >>> From gilrockwell at gmail.com Thu May 21 10:01:52 2020 From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 12:01:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <8078ecc9-8ac3-a074-b975-19d409976833@comcast.net> References: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> <8078ecc9-8ac3-a074-b975-19d409976833@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00e601d62f89$254dd090$6fe971b0$@gmail.com> Most digital meters have "auto-zero" capabilities, the zero knob is on the older analog multi-meters. In Lin's case, being off an ohm or less is insignificant when measuring the sparkplug leads... Gil 61 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 11:56 AM To: Linwood Rose Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity I should have mentioned that even your test leads will have some resistance, so many/most/all MMs have a 'zero' function. If you set the lower ohm range and cross the leads you'll get some milliohm reading, then when you press the zero function the MM will display zero ohms, so you don't have to do the math to calculate the actual reading of your circuit. On 5/21/2020 8:34 AM, Linwood Rose wrote: > Don?t know how distributor cap turned into radiator cap????? > Lin > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator >> cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) >> >> It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe >> that's how continuity works on your MM?).* The reading is probably >> ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn >> the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 >> omega').* It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which >> is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead >> (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper >> has some resistance). >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >>> Hi guys, >>> Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a >>> spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) >>> the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual >>> outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable >>> (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable >>> I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. >>> >>> So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH >>> Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to >>> each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not >>> sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I >>> suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I >>> guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near >>> zero. >>> >>> Could someone interpret these findings for me? >>> >>> Thanks, as always. >>> >>> Lin >>> >>> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gilrockwell at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From ah100register at gmail.com Thu May 21 10:10:51 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 17:10:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <00d101d62f87$5f9e2b20$1eda8160$@gmail.com> References: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> <00d101d62f87$5f9e2b20$1eda8160$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Lin To reduce interference as we had in the 1950s, resistance was added in the plug leads. Early televisions that were 405 lines and received on a lower frequency than today; interference was so bad that a taxi idling outside the house was enough to totally break up a picture. People who did not fit suppressors were so unpopular that most people fitted them to have a peaceful life The elbow plug caps were marked 10,000 ohms. As an alternative plug leads with something like carbon filaments were available. The problem with these was that sometimes the resistance element went much higher or went completely open circuit. There was then sparking inside the cable which meant that there was not enough spark left to ignite the fuel. Maybe these leads supplied today are more reliable but I prefer solid copper leads with resistive plug connectors. Sometimes you could fit a set on the end of each lead but just one in the lead coming from the coil to the distributor is fairly effective. These were supplied with male and female threads so could easily be fitted into early Lucas distributors Best regards On Thu, 21 May 2020 at 16:49, Gil Rockwell wrote: > Hi Lin, > > > > These are resistance wires to suppress ignition ?noise? and that reading > is fine, around 800 ohms, based on the fact you?re using the continuity > scale. Check the old one, it should be similar assuming the new connector > pierced the insulation and into the core. > > The only wires that will register a low resistance reading are solid core, > copper conductor wires, which cause extreme static in the radio in the car > and the cars around you, which is why manufacturers switched to the > resistance or ?suppression? wires. > > > > Gil > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Linwood > Rose via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, May 21, 2020 10:56 AM > *To:* healeylist > *Subject:* [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity > > > > Hi guys, > > Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark > plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable > pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a > new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and > before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the > continuity. It barely dropped below 1. > > > > So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As > shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the > cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the > beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity > (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading > to drop to near zero. > > > > Could someone interpret these findings for me? > > > > Thanks, as always. > > > > Lin > > > > > > ------------------------------ > [image: Avast logo] > > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > www.avast.com > > <#m_580416860043290707_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 431110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cwbrown39 at gmail.com Thu May 21 10:37:48 2020 From: cwbrown39 at gmail.com (Healey List) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 12:37:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ransmission lubricant In-Reply-To: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> References: <179C8E58-F9C4-47C7-A1B4-5360EF5B3527@gmail.com> Message-ID: Thanks all for your replays. Our club is having a tech session tonight anD will share this information. Carl Brown Sent from my iPad > On May 21, 2020, at 8:08 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > > I have to agree. ?BlueHealey? has it in the gearbox too. It is perfect. > I?m told it has a greater propensity to leak than Dino oils so if you are already weeping a bit, usually from the overdrive flange, then MT90 may make it worse. > Check out http://www.bluehealey.com/Gallery/Compression%20Struts/index.html > > Cheers. > > Alan - from my iPad > >> On 21 May 2020, at 10:04, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> >> ?I?ve been using Redline MT90 for 18 years. >> It?s Perfect. >> Best >> Chris >> >>> On 21 May 2020, at 3:36 pm, Healey List wrote: >>> >>> ?What redline lube is used in the transmission >>> Thanks >>> Carl Brown >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu May 21 11:35:27 2020 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 17:35:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> References: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> Message-ID: <369087910.1972963.1590082527663@mail.yahoo.com> symbol? on meter settings indicates "diode test" ..Puts a known voltage across diode and measures "diode turn on voltage" ie where it starts to conduct? ..not the same as ohms ... Jim On Thursday, May 21, 2020, 8:29:27 AM PDT, Bob Spidell wrote: First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's how continuity works on your MM?).? The reading is probably ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').? It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some resistance). Bob On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: Hi guys, Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near zero. Could someone interpret these findings for me? Thanks, as always. Lin _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0608.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 431110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu May 21 11:36:34 2020 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 17:36:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> References: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> Message-ID: <526714054.1099088.1590082594823@mail.yahoo.com> speel czech jim On Thursday, May 21, 2020, 8:39:21 AM PDT, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: Don?t know how distributor cap turned into radiator cap?????Lin Sent from my iPhone On May 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: ? First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's how continuity works on your MM?).* The reading is probably ohms, indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').* It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some resistance). Bob On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: Hi guys, Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to sound and the reading to drop to near zero. Could someone interpret these findings for me? Thanks, as always. Lin _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 21 12:02:21 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:02:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall Message-ID: <00cb01d62f99$f9ccf930$ed66eb90$@roadrunner.com> I pulled the arms out of the bases on the recalled stand (right) and the not-recalled stand (left). The difference in the pall depth and contour is, well, appalling. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 7:10 AM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Harbor Freight jack stand recall If you've not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I've not used them frequently. I'm taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. Not sure what they'll do with the 2 that have a different part or batch number, but even with a different number they don't inspire great confidence. https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-56371_6119 6_61197.pdf Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2067.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 112806 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 12:36:59 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:36:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <369087910.1972963.1590082527663@mail.yahoo.com> References: <9FFFB856-992A-4DC8-9790-3E486792C1A4@mac.com> <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> <369087910.1972963.1590082527663@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <626ced88-cd79-c5a6-9e40-2d2b4dcabbab@comcast.net> Thanks.? I was taking a SWAG that it was impedance. On 5/21/2020 10:35 AM, jim wrote: > symbol? on meter settings indicates "diode test" ..Puts a known > voltage across diode and measures "diode turn on voltage" ie where it > starts to conduct? ..not the same as ohms ... > > Jim > > On Thursday, May 21, 2020, 8:29:27 AM PDT, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator > cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) > > It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's > how continuity works on your MM?).? The reading is probably ohms, > indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM > control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').? > It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about > what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one > ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some > resistance). > > Bob > > > On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > Hi guys, > Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark > plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable > pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. > Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix > cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I > would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. > > So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. > As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end > of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even > sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees > of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to > sound and the reading to drop to near zero. > > Could someone interpret these findings for me? > > Thanks, as always. > > Lin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 12:39:18 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 11:39:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor to spark plug lead continuity In-Reply-To: <526714054.1099088.1590082594823@mail.yahoo.com> References: <337efcea-dc9a-6207-8358-60d44158a7bf@comcast.net> <3C87934D-91C9-40B6-B7CF-7C27052B2870@mac.com> <526714054.1099088.1590082594823@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8d1ae6ed-a855-e4cd-132a-0dba685bedf2@comcast.net> Some of my contacts are virtual keyboard-phobic ... some of their voice-dictated, AI-mangled messages are pretty hilarious. On 5/21/2020 10:36 AM, jim wrote: > speel czech > > jim > > On Thursday, May 21, 2020, 8:39:21 AM PDT, Linwood Rose via Healeys > wrote: > > > Don?t know how distributor cap turned into radiator cap????? > Lin > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? > First, why on earth did you have a spark plug lead on a radiator > cap??? (presume you meant 'distributor' cap?) > > It looks like you have your multimeter set to diode test (maybe that's > how continuity works on your MM?).* The reading is probably ohms, > indicating a very low resistance circuit, but to be sure turn the MM > control knob one click clockwise, to the 200 ohm range ('200 omega').* > It'll probably give the same reading; i.e. .792 ohms, which is about > what you'd expect from a short stranded copper wire lead (IIRC, one > ohm per foot of cable is considered normal, even copper has some > resistance). > > Bob > > > On 5/21/2020 7:55 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > Hi guys, > Educate me. When doing some preventative maintenance, I pulled a spark > plug lead out of the radiator cap (using a 123 distributor) the cable > pulled away from the terminal - not a particularly unusual outcome. > Got a new 90 degree terminal and crimped it on to the cable (Pertronix > cable) and before I put the boot on the end of the cable I thought I > would check the continuity. It barely dropped below 1. > > So then I checked a brand new, never used, cable made-up by AH Spares. > As shown in the image below when the sensors are attached to each end > of the cable I get a reading of .792 which is not sufficient to even > sound the beeper on the multimeter device. I suppose there are degrees > of continuity (not just on/off) but I guess I expected the alarm to > sound and the reading to drop to near zero. > > Could someone interpret these findings for me? > > Thanks, as always. > > Lin > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 21 14:22:13 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 20:22:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Studs References: <1151702657.648661.1590092533226.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1151702657.648661.1590092533226@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know if the three studs that connect the 100 exhaust manifold to the down pipe are BSF or UNF?? I sent to Moss for the three studs, washers and brass nuts,? but was sent too small a size.? I called them and was told that is what they call for and they are UNF threads.? I'm confused.? Virtually everything on this engine is BSF.? What the heck thread size and type should they be?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cgmoog at optonline.net Thu May 21 16:58:45 2020 From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 18:58:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall In-Reply-To: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> References: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <5a15d2c6-9eb6-9302-48e2-203ba1b6d594@optonline.net> If you look at the ratcheting head (for lack of a better term). The non-recalled ones have deeper ratchets. It seems the recalled ones were produced on worn molds. On 5/21/2020 10:09 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > If you?ve not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my > garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those > are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands > sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I?ve not used > them frequently. I?m taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. > Not sure what they?ll do with the 2 that have a different part or > batch number, but even with a different number they don?t inspire > great confidence. > > https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ > > https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-56371_61196_61197.pdf > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu May 21 17:00:31 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 16:00:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Studs In-Reply-To: <1151702657.648661.1590092533226@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1151702657.648661.1590092533226.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1151702657.648661.1590092533226@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: *BSF* On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 1:31 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Does anyone know if the three studs that connect the 100 exhaust manifold > to the down pipe are BSF or UNF? I sent to Moss for the three studs, > washers and brass nuts, but was sent too small a size. I called them and > was told that is what they call for and they are UNF threads. I'm > confused. Virtually everything on this engine is BSF. What the heck > thread size and type should they be? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu May 21 17:56:15 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 16:56:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall In-Reply-To: <5a15d2c6-9eb6-9302-48e2-203ba1b6d594@optonline.net> References: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> <5a15d2c6-9eb6-9302-48e2-203ba1b6d594@optonline.net> Message-ID: <01b901d62fcb$6a5b1930$3f114b90$@roadrunner.com> Yes, that is what Harbor Freight reported on their website. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Moog Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 3:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall If you look at the ratcheting head (for lack of a better term). The non-recalled ones have deeper ratchets. It seems the recalled ones were produced on worn molds. On 5/21/2020 10:09 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > If you've not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my > garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those > are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands > sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I've not used > them frequently. I'm taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. > Not sure what they'll do with the 2 that have a different part or > batch number, but even with a different number they don't inspire > great confidence. > > https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ > > https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-5637 > 1_61196_61197.pdf > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu May 21 18:34:02 2020 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall In-Reply-To: <01b901d62fcb$6a5b1930$3f114b90$@roadrunner.com> References: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> <5a15d2c6-9eb6-9302-48e2-203ba1b6d594@optonline.net> <01b901d62fcb$6a5b1930$3f114b90$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <63572070.96687321.1590107642569.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> just checked--I have two of them!!! Never used them anyway--thankfully. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Steele To: cgmoog at optonline.net, healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 21 May 2020 19:56:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall Yes, that is what Harbor Freight reported on their website. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Moog Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 3:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall If you look at the ratcheting head (for lack of a better term). The non-recalled ones have deeper ratchets. It seems the recalled ones were produced on worn molds. On 5/21/2020 10:09 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > If you've not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my > garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those > are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands > sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I've not used > them frequently. I'm taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. > Not sure what they'll do with the 2 that have a different part or > batch number, but even with a different number they don't inspire > great confidence. > > https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ > > https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-5637 > 1_61196_61197.pdf > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From healeyguy at aol.com Thu May 21 18:53:58 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 20:53:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall In-Reply-To: <01b901d62fcb$6a5b1930$3f114b90$@roadrunner.com> References: <073d01d62f79$75434720$5fc9d560$@roadrunner.com> <5a15d2c6-9eb6-9302-48e2-203ba1b6d594@optonline.net> <01b901d62fcb$6a5b1930$3f114b90$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Interesting that basically the same 3 ton jack stands have been around for a long time. Suspect that ours are at least 12-15 years old. Look the same as the Harbor Freight items in the recall and even has the 3 ton cast in the upright (ratcheting head). However they are different in that the do not have any stickers/part number on them, they have white bases and red uprights. Used very frequently over the years with no problems. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bruce Steele Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 7:57 PM To: cgmoog at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall Yes, that is what Harbor Freight reported on their website. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Moog Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 3:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harbor Freight jack stand recall If you look at the ratcheting head (for lack of a better term). The non-recalled ones have deeper ratchets. It seems the recalled ones were produced on worn molds. On 5/21/2020 10:09 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > If you've not seen this, please take note. Of the 12 jack stands in my > garage, 4 are the silver 3-ton Harbor Freight stands, and 2 of those > are included in the recall. Fortunately for me, the 2 recalled stands > sat behind the 2 that were not recalled on the shelf and I've not used > them frequently. I'm taking all 4 back to my local Harbor Freight. > Not sure what they'll do with the 2 that have a different part or > batch number, but even with a different number they don't inspire > great confidence. > > https://www.autoblog.com/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/ > > https://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/recalls/Jack-Stand-Recall-5637 > 1_61196_61197.pdf > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 21 22:51:37 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 21:51:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Benders Message-ID: What do y'all use?? I have several, none of which are ideal; I have one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html Which /should/ work well, but has sharp edges which nick the line, which of course is not a good thing (I know, HARBOR FREIGHT 'quality').? I also have several of the articulating/anvil kind, which works OK but it's nigh impossible to get a really tight bend: https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html Anybody got one of these: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4n1-tubing-bender.html The lines to the rear slave cylinders, in particular, have a small--1" or less--radius and I'd like to do them right. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri May 22 07:24:10 2020 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 09:24:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Benders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I use these to make tight bends: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027AL3X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cupro-Nickel lines are a lot easier to bend if you don't care about concours. Healthy Healeying, Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 12:59 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > What do y'all use? I have several, none of which are ideal; I have one of > these: > > https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html > > Which *should* work well, but has sharp edges which nick the line, which > of course is not a good thing (I know, HARBOR FREIGHT 'quality'). I also > have several of the articulating/anvil kind, which works OK but it's nigh > impossible to get a really tight bend: > > https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html > > Anybody got one of these: > > https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4n1-tubing-bender.html > > The lines to the rear slave cylinders, in particular, have a small--1" or > less--radius and I'd like to do them right. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri May 22 12:20:06 2020 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 18:20:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions In-Reply-To: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> References: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> Message-ID: <224535443.1118507.1590171606209@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Harold.? The attached file may be of some help.? I put it together a couple of decades ago. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Wednesday, May 20, 2020, 11:40:24 p.m. EDT, Harold Manifold wrote: Like many of you I been following the directives of our health officials and staying home with a lot of time on my hands. Fortunately I have an Austin Healey in a 1000 pieces to occupy my idle hands. I was continually looking up fastener descriptions from the Service Parts List and decided to develop an Excel spreadsheet that could be used to translate the BMC part number into a description that would work on an iPad. I sent a beta version to a few Healey Guru's and got some good suggestions on improvements. Thank-you for your input.?This spreadsheet will work for almost all of the fastener part numbers (nuts, bolts, washers and screws) listed in the Anderson and Moment book plus a few more. Unfortunately it doesn't work for some of the specialty fasteners and the BA and BSW fasteners. If someone has an accurate list of the specialty fasteners they want to send to me I will add them.?If using on an iPad I suggest Google Sheets.?I know there are paper versions of the parts numbers but I found taking the iPad to the garage was a better solution. This spreadsheet has fastener listing from several different paper lists?in one place.?I hope this is helpful to others restoring their Healey.?Harold??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BMC Std Parts Fasteners.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 2727247 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jnew at hazelden.ca Fri May 22 13:40:02 2020 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 15:40:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions In-Reply-To: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> References: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> Message-ID: <4303795.LiEJuENe7s@johnpc> Well, then you (and anybody else that uses a computer in the garage restoring their Healey) need this : lbcdigital.com As well as a complete digital reproduction of the Parts Lists for the BN4 to BJ8, each one includes Appendix One of Anderson & Moment's Restoration Guide (used by permission). You can find it in the menu system under Reference > Fastener Codes. In addition to that, there is also an indexed search function in each Parts List that will search all the part numbers listed as well as keywords. Hope that helps. John New London, Ontario, Canada On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:30:51 PM EDT Harold Manifold wrote: > I know there are paper versions of the parts numbers but I found taking the > iPad to the garage was a better solution. From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri May 22 14:56:40 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 13:56:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Benders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <048301d6307b$7e8c6890$7ba539b0$@roadrunner.com> I have an articulating bender, similar to the second HF link, which I?ve used for fuel lines with good success. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 9:52 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Benders What do y'all use? I have several, none of which are ideal; I have one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html Which should work well, but has sharp edges which nick the line, which of course is not a good thing (I know, HARBOR FREIGHT 'quality'). I also have several of the articulating/anvil kind, which works OK but it's nigh impossible to get a really tight bend: https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html Anybody got one of these: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4n1-tubing-bender.html The lines to the rear slave cylinders, in particular, have a small--1" or less--radius and I'd like to do them right. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri May 22 18:28:11 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 17:28:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions In-Reply-To: <4303795.LiEJuENe7s@johnpc> References: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> <4303795.LiEJuENe7s@johnpc> Message-ID: <290423A607774FDD8F175A59129BDD50@AllInOne> John, I have lbcdigital.com on my iPad as well. It is brilliant. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John P. New Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 12:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions Well, then you (and anybody else that uses a computer in the garage restoring their Healey) need this : lbcdigital.com As well as a complete digital reproduction of the Parts Lists for the BN4 to BJ8, each one includes Appendix One of Anderson & Moment's Restoration Guide (used by permission). You can find it in the menu system under Reference > Fastener Codes. In addition to that, there is also an indexed search function in each Parts List that will search all the part numbers listed as well as keywords. Hope that helps. John New London, Ontario, Canada On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:30:51 PM EDT Harold Manifold wrote: > I know there are paper versions of the parts numbers but I found > taking the iPad to the garage was a better solution. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri May 22 20:35:46 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 19:35:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions In-Reply-To: <290423A607774FDD8F175A59129BDD50@AllInOne> References: <86E4922C25884372827E940FBC04DB67@AllInOne> <4303795.LiEJuENe7s@johnpc> <290423A607774FDD8F175A59129BDD50@AllInOne> Message-ID: <064401d630aa$dd357510$97a05f30$@roadrunner.com> Amazing amount of work. Thanks for compiling and sharing. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 5:28 PM To: 'John P. New' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions John, I have lbcdigital.com on my iPad as well. It is brilliant. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John P. New Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 12:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC Fasteners Descriptions Well, then you (and anybody else that uses a computer in the garage restoring their Healey) need this : lbcdigital.com As well as a complete digital reproduction of the Parts Lists for the BN4 to BJ8, each one includes Appendix One of Anderson & Moment's Restoration Guide (used by permission). You can find it in the menu system under Reference > Fastener Codes. In addition to that, there is also an indexed search function in each Parts List that will search all the part numbers listed as well as keywords. Hope that helps. John New London, Ontario, Canada On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:30:51 PM EDT Harold Manifold wrote: > I know there are paper versions of the parts numbers but I found > taking the iPad to the garage was a better solution. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From hcdodson at sbcglobal.net Sat May 23 01:25:37 2020 From: hcdodson at sbcglobal.net (Henry Dodson) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 00:25:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 178 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A207228-977E-4E76-BD34-9C846B830A56@sbcglobal.net> Sent from my iPad > On May 15, 2020, at 11:00 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Four cylinder woes Part Three (Steven Kingsbury) > 2. 100 Head Complete (gpaquett at aol.com) > 3. Moss Videos (Michael MacLean) > 4. Re: Moss Videos (Bob Haskell) > 5. OD check ball (Warren) > 6. Re: OD check ball (Bob Spidell) > 7. Re: OD check ball (John Spaur) > 8. Re: Moss Videos (Michael MacLean) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:36:53 -0000 > From: Steven Kingsbury > To: Kees Oudesluijs > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes Part Three > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Taking the piston to a machine shop today, the same one that did my head and will have more answers after that. The cylinder wall matches the other three quite nicely. Doesn't appear to be any damage or scoring. Lucked out there, but will re-hone before anything goes back in. > Steven? > > On May 14, 2020 at 11:10 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > > > How about a new piston? Those ring fragments surely did some damage to its groove? Hopefully the bore is OK. There looks to be a fair amount of wear on the piston skirt. Could be the flash from the camera though. > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > > Op 14-5-2020 om 16:31 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys: > > I think I found the problem! Now to find the correct rings! > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:33:59 +0000 (UTC) > From: gpaquett at aol.com > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Healeys] 100 Head Complete > Message-ID: <1538239915.269189.1589488439477 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have a 100 head taken off my BN1 when I upgraded to alloy head. It was running good when removed. Since I sold the car, I have no need for it. I live in Mesa AZ. Ph 413 684 3927. I am looking for offers. Gerry Paquette. > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 23:35:46 +0000 (UTC) > From: Michael MacLean > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Moss Videos > Message-ID: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube.Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:22:01 -0400 > From: Bob Haskell > To: Michael MacLean , Healeys > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Videos > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Mike, > > Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 19:52:38 -0400 > From: Warren > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball > Message-ID: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0 at mx.google.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:22:03 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > Message-ID: <9c936bf1-e08e-c766-c8e5-a8b195e26a8e at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm.? Same size as the > ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I > bought a bag of them for spares. > > Bob > >> On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: >> >> Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return >> valve and where I might get one >> >> locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last >> thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started >> to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. >> >> Thanks, >> >> WD 67 BJ8 >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:56:58 -0700 > From: "John Spaur" > To: "'Bob Spidell'" , > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > Message-ID: <003401d62a75$443bfa90$ccb3efb0$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have a box of seat slide ball bearings I bought nearly 50 years ago because that was the only way I could get them at the time! > > > > I found a link to buy a ?Loose ball? hahaha > > > > https://www.vxb.com/5-16-inch-Diameter-Chrome-Steel-Ball-Bearing-G10-p/Kit12268.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3MrOvYS16QIVEo3ICh3Z2w8-EAQYAiABEgLWu_D_BwE > > > > John > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:22 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > > > > I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm. Same size as the ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I bought a bag of them for spares. > > Bob > > On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: > > Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return valve and where I might get one > > locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. > > > > Thanks, > > WD 67 BJ8 > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 06:29:24 +0000 (UTC) > From: Michael MacLean > To: Healeys , Bob Haskell > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Videos > Message-ID: <1094892417.662484.1589524164026 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > OK, I see them there now.? I swear they were not ther this afternoon.Mike MacLean > > On Thursday, May 14, 2020, 6:22:05 PM PDT, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Mike, > > Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 178 > **************************************** From ah100register at gmail.com Sat May 23 03:24:21 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:24:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 178 In-Reply-To: <5A207228-977E-4E76-BD34-9C846B830A56@sbcglobal.net> References: <5A207228-977E-4E76-BD34-9C846B830A56@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Fellow BN1/2 enthusiasts What some owners have alredy done is great. However has anybody produced a list of Austin BSF fixing part number and descriptions that apply to the engine etc. I list a few 1Bnnnn 2Knnnn Pnn There are others. I have put various BN1/2 parts lists into a database and from this fixings are included. Some of these can be identified to the size and length. This is not high on my list to complete but before I do I would like to know if anybody has already done this? Regards On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 08:36, Henry Dodson wrote: > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On May 15, 2020, at 11:00 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > > healeys at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Re: Four cylinder woes Part Three (Steven Kingsbury) > > 2. 100 Head Complete (gpaquett at aol.com) > > 3. Moss Videos (Michael MacLean) > > 4. Re: Moss Videos (Bob Haskell) > > 5. OD check ball (Warren) > > 6. Re: OD check ball (Bob Spidell) > > 7. Re: OD check ball (John Spaur) > > 8. Re: Moss Videos (Michael MacLean) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 18:36:53 -0000 > > From: Steven Kingsbury > > To: Kees Oudesluijs > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes Part Three > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > Taking the piston to a machine shop today, the same one that did my head > and will have more answers after that. The cylinder wall matches the other > three quite nicely. Doesn't appear to be any damage or scoring. Lucked out > there, but will re-hone before anything goes back in. > > Steven? > > > > On May 14, 2020 at 11:10 AM, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > > > > > > > > How about a new piston? Those ring fragments surely did some damage to > its groove? Hopefully the bore is OK. There looks to be a fair amount of > wear on the piston skirt. Could be the flash from the camera though. > > > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Op 14-5-2020 om 16:31 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys: > > > > I think I found the problem! Now to find the correct rings! > > Steven Kingsbury > > BN1 > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/07b6c56a/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:33:59 +0000 (UTC) > > From: gpaquett at aol.com > > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: [Healeys] 100 Head Complete > > Message-ID: <1538239915.269189.1589488439477 at mail.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I have a 100 head taken off my BN1 when I upgraded to alloy head. It was > running good when removed. Since I sold the car, I have no need for it. I > live in Mesa AZ. Ph 413 684 3927. I am looking for offers. Gerry Paquette. > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/ad930c4f/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 23:35:46 +0000 (UTC) > > From: Michael MacLean > > To: Healeys > > Subject: [Healeys] Moss Videos > > Message-ID: <1289247801.534157.1589499346731 at mail.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube.Mike > MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/4fc1cafa/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:22:01 -0400 > > From: Bob Haskell > > To: Michael MacLean , Healeys > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Videos > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > > > Mike, > > > > Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > > >> On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > >> All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. > >> Mike MacLean > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > >> > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 5 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 19:52:38 -0400 > > From: Warren > > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Subject: [Healeys] OD check ball > > Message-ID: <5ebe0520.1c69fb81.a3246.5fe0 at mx.google.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/e4770e06/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 6 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 20:22:03 -0700 > > From: Bob Spidell > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > > Message-ID: <9c936bf1-e08e-c766-c8e5-a8b195e26a8e at comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm.? Same size as the > > ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I > > bought a bag of them for spares. > > > > Bob > > > >> On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: > >> > >> Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return > >> valve and where I might get one > >> > >> locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last > >> thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started > >> to reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> WD 67 BJ8 > >> > >> Sent from Mail for > >> Windows 10 > >> > >> > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/fbf02fb7/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 7 > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 21:56:58 -0700 > > From: "John Spaur" > > To: "'Bob Spidell'" , > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > > Message-ID: <003401d62a75$443bfa90$ccb3efb0$@sbcglobal.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I have a box of seat slide ball bearings I bought nearly 50 years ago > because that was the only way I could get them at the time! > > > > > > > > I found a link to buy a ?Loose ball? hahaha > > > > > > > > > https://www.vxb.com/5-16-inch-Diameter-Chrome-Steel-Ball-Bearing-G10-p/Kit12268.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3MrOvYS16QIVEo3ICh3Z2w8-EAQYAiABEgLWu_D_BwE > > > > > > > > John > > > > > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 8:22 PM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD check ball > > > > > > > > I believe it's 5/16"; hopefully others can confirm. Same size as the > ball in the OD activating valve and the bearings in the seat slides; I > bought a bag of them for spares. > > > > Bob > > > > On 5/14/2020 4:52 PM, Warren wrote: > > > > Would anyone know the size of the ball bearing on the pump non return > valve and where I might get one > > > > locally? Yes, I lost it as I was inspecting for dirt or wear. The last > thing I wanted to check and clean while I had access before I started to > reassemble with new accumulator,piston and spring. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > WD 67 BJ8 > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200514/c189307e/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 8 > > Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 06:29:24 +0000 (UTC) > > From: Michael MacLean > > To: Healeys , Bob Haskell > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Videos > > Message-ID: <1094892417.662484.1589524164026 at mail.yahoo.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > OK, I see them there now.? I swear they were not ther this > afternoon.Mike MacLean > > > > On Thursday, May 14, 2020, 6:22:05 PM PDT, Bob Haskell < > rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote: > > > > Mike, > > > > Seem to be at https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > > >> On 5/14/20 7:35 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > >> All of the Moss technical videos have disappeared from YouTube. > >> Mike MacLean > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > >> > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200515/6d8e5000/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Healeys mailing list > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 178 > > **************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sat May 23 11:32:27 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:32:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 178 In-Reply-To: References: <5A207228-977E-4E76-BD34-9C846B830A56@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: John, I am currently working on a list of BN1/2 part numbers that will translate into BSF sizes for all applications on these cars. However I still have a ways to go, here is a small sampling... *BMC Part numbers for Whitworth Fasteners - BN1/2s* *Front Suspension* *Spring seats with bumper* 2K 8558 ? 3/8 X 2 ?? BSF Hex Bolts, seats to links 2K 5675 ? 3/8 X 2 ?? BSF Hex Bolts, seats and anti-roll bar plates to links 2K 6319 ? ?? BSF slotted nut, Nuts for fulcrum pins, B.S.F. thread *Fulcrum pins, inner links to frame* 2K 3997 ? ?? BSF slotted Hex Nut, Nuts for fulcrum pins Cheers, Curt Concours Registry Committee On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 2:29 AM John Harper wrote: > Fellow BN1/2 enthusiasts > > What some owners have already done is great. > > However has anybody produced a list of Austin BSF fixing part number and > descriptions that apply to the engine etc. > > I list a few > > 1Bnnnn > > 2Knnnn > > Pnn > > There are others. > > I have put various BN1/2 parts lists into a database and from this fixings > are included. Some of these can be identified to the size and length. > > This is not high on my list to complete but before I do I would like to > know if anybody has already done this? > > Regards > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Sat May 23 12:19:42 2020 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 14:19:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rightway Heritage Trimming Message-ID: Eleven years ago when I restored my BT7 I had a hard time finding the proper size vinyl piping for the door shut finisher aluminum plates. Most of the stuff that I could find from the usual vendors used a nylon line inside the vinyl that was too large in diameter. I found something that was close to right at a fabric shop, but I was never satisfied with this little detail. While this is a small item, I just wanted to pass along a great customer service experience. Some of you will know that Rich Chrysler?s son, Geoff, is a highly talented upholstery trimmer. After about ten years at Heritage Upholstery he began his own business, https://www.rightwayheritagetrim.com/ . I have been following Geoff?s Blog about his business and his own restoration projects and hobbies. He is currently working on a BN1. I wrote Geoff about the vinyl trim I had been seeking and he responded that he would be happy to ?make up? a set for me. I received them in the mail today and they look perfect to me. I am eager to get them installed next week. Take a look at Geoff?s site. You will quickly see that he has mastered his trade. Send some business to him. I am sure you will be pleased with the result! When it comes time to replace my interior I know who I will call upon. Lin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sat May 23 12:26:10 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 11:26:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thread Size for Overdrive operating Valve Plug Message-ID: <000801d6312f$a3d2e660$eb78b320$@cox.net> Anybody know what the official size designation and thread is for the Overdrive Operating Valve Plug? Trying to fit up a pressure gauge, and having issues finding the right adapter. The Major OD of the plug is .49", and the British standard pipe taper and parallel major OD is .51", so they aren't going in. Thanks, Jonas -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 23 13:05:00 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 12:05:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rightway Heritage Trimming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Nfi But I agree. I have been to his place and he is sn excellent craftsperson and does beautiful work. Plus he is a fine restoration mechanic as well.I saw the mgb he restored at his then home shop. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 59 BN4 67MGB 65 AH Sprite phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:20 AM Linwood Rose via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Eleven years ago when I restored my BT7 I had a hard time finding the > proper size vinyl piping for the door shut finisher aluminum plates. Most > of the stuff that I could find from the usual vendors used a nylon line > inside the vinyl that was too large in diameter. I found something that was > close to right at a fabric shop, but I was never satisfied with this little > detail. > > While this is a small item, I just wanted to pass along a great customer > service experience. Some of you will know that Rich Chrysler?s son, Geoff, > is a highly talented upholstery trimmer. After about ten years at Heritage > Upholstery he began his own business, > https://www.rightwayheritagetrim.com/. I have been following Geoff?s Blog > about his business and his own restoration projects and hobbies. He is > currently working on a BN1. I wrote Geoff about the vinyl trim I had been > seeking and he responded that he would be happy to ?make up? a set for me. > I received them in the mail today and they look perfect to me. I am eager > to get them installed next week. > > Take a look at Geoff?s site. You will quickly see that he has mastered his > trade. Send some business to him. I am sure you will be pleased with the > result! When it comes time to replace my interior I know who I will call > upon. > > Lin > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat May 23 13:36:11 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 15:36:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thread Size for Overdrive operating Valve Plug In-Reply-To: <000801d6312f$a3d2e660$eb78b320$@cox.net> References: <000801d6312f$a3d2e660$eb78b320$@cox.net> Message-ID: Struggled with that for a while then had a eureka moment ... braize an adaptor onto the top of an old plug after drilling a hole through it and viola ? On Sat., May 23, 2020, 2:34 p.m. , wrote: > Anybody know what the official size designation and thread is for the > Overdrive Operating Valve Plug? > > > > Trying to fit up a pressure gauge, and having issues finding the right > adapter. The Major OD of the plug is .49?, and the British standard pipe > taper and parallel major OD is .51?, so they aren?t going in. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jonas > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat May 23 13:52:24 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 15:52:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Thread Size for Overdrive operating Valve Plug In-Reply-To: <000801d6312f$a3d2e660$eb78b320$@cox.net> References: <000801d6312f$a3d2e660$eb78b320$@cox.net> Message-ID: <00f85e19-9986-e8e1-c1df-9105d084d768@earthlink.net> I made an adapter to 1/4" NPT years ago. Looks like the thread is 1/2"-20. Mine measured 0.495". Michael has the right idea, that allows you to keep the ball and spring in place and measure the pressure under normal operation. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/23/20 2:26 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > Anybody know what the official size designation and thread is for the > Overdrive Operating Valve Plug? > > Trying to fit up a pressure gauge, and having issues finding the right > adapter.? The Major OD of the plug is .49?, and the British standard > pipe taper and parallel major OD is .51?, so they aren?t going in. > > Thanks, > > Jonas > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 23 16:43:10 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 22:43:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch 100M Manifolds References: <561531551.428055.1590273790244.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <561531551.428055.1590273790244@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone install Denis Welch 100M intake manifolds on their 100?? I bought these from a late friend several years ago and did not try to install them until this week.? A couple of complaints.? The balance pipe studs are not all the same.? Two have different length thread than the other two.? Not a tragedy, but for the cost of these things you would expect better.? Second, the manifold to carb studs are very long.? I can't seem to figure out why that is.? These studs did not come with the nuts either.? So far I have tried BSF and UNF nuts and can only get 2 to 3 turns then either nut stops. ? What thread and size should they be.? I bought a set of 8 nuts for a regular 100 intake manifold (H4), but they are too big.? Pardon the pun, but i am going nuts trying to figure out all the different fasteners on this engine/car and what threads are used in the newer replacement parts like this Denis Welch designed manifold.Mike MacLean? Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200523_145735.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3470663 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sat May 23 18:35:51 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 17:35:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Message-ID: <001701d63163$47dda640$d798f2c0$@cox.net> So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug - 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage. This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load. Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? I'm using the Team.Net Tech site. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084" to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn't I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn't hang up? >From the team.net site : psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 6234 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Dayton21 at comcast.net Sat May 23 19:28:46 2020 From: Dayton21 at comcast.net (Mitch Simmons) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 21:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rightway Heritage Trimming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C128668-4D3D-4734-8493-E6D57698D41B@comcast.net> I had Geoff do my Bn4 complete interior few years ago....did a great job!! Mitch Sent from my iPhone > On May 23, 2020, at 3:05 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Nfi > But I agree. I have been to his place and he is sn excellent craftsperson and does beautiful work. Plus he is a fine restoration mechanic as well.I saw the mgb he restored at his then home shop. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 59 BN4 > 67MGB > 65 AH Sprite > phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos > >> On Sat, May 23, 2020, 11:20 AM Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> Eleven years ago when I restored my BT7 I had a hard time finding the proper size vinyl piping for the door shut finisher aluminum plates. Most of the stuff that I could find from the usual vendors used a nylon line inside the vinyl that was too large in diameter. I found something that was close to right at a fabric shop, but I was never satisfied with this little detail. >> >> While this is a small item, I just wanted to pass along a great customer service experience. Some of you will know that Rich Chrysler?s son, Geoff, is a highly talented upholstery trimmer. After about ten years at Heritage Upholstery he began his own business, https://www.rightwayheritagetrim.com/. I have been following Geoff?s Blog about his business and his own restoration projects and hobbies. He is currently working on a BN1. I wrote Geoff about the vinyl trim I had been seeking and he responded that he would be happy to ?make up? a set for me. I received them in the mail today and they look perfect to me. I am eager to get them installed next week. >> >> Take a look at Geoff?s site. You will quickly see that he has mastered his trade. Send some business to him. I am sure you will be pleased with the result! When it comes time to replace my interior I know who I will call upon. >> >> Lin >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dayton21 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 24 02:18:41 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 10:18:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch 100M Manifolds In-Reply-To: <561531551.428055.1590273790244@mail.yahoo.com> References: <561531551.428055.1590273790244.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <561531551.428055.1590273790244@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Metric M8? Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-5-2020 om 00:43 schreef Michael MacLean: > Anyone install Denis Welch 100M intake manifolds on their 100?? I > bought these from a late friend several years ago and did not try to > install them until this week.? A couple of complaints.? The balance > pipe studs are not all the same.? Two have different length thread > than the other two.? Not a tragedy, but for the cost of these things > you would expect better.? Second, the manifold to carb studs are very > long.? I can't seem to figure out why that is.? These studs did not > come with the nuts either.? So far I have tried BSF and UNF nuts and > can only get 2 to 3 turns then either nut stops. > > > ? What thread and size should they be.? I bought a set of 8 nuts for a > regular 100 intake manifold (H4), but they are too big. Pardon the > pun, but i am going nuts trying to figure out all the different > fasteners on this engine/car and what threads are used in the newer > replacement parts like this Denis Welch designed manifold. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ericmetzner at gmx.de Sun May 24 02:42:06 2020 From: ericmetzner at gmx.de (Eric Metzner) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 10:42:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Dual circuit brakes BN1 Message-ID: Going through the restoration of my 1954 BN1 I thought about converting to a dual circuit brake system. Can anyone support with details what?s the best way to do so? DWR is selling a kit but at a high price. To keep the engine bay most original, would it be possible to use the dual reservoir of the later models? Did anyone of you just fit a standard dual brake master cylinder (which type was used)? How to mount it to the chassis (bracket?) Pictures of your conversions would be highly appreciated. Many thanks in advance for your support and stay safe Cheers Eric Von meinem iPad gesendet From djg at gavinassociates.com Sun May 24 05:55:20 2020 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 11:55:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement Message-ID: What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups' help is most appreciated. Dennis Gavin Centerville, MA 63 BJ7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 24 09:14:40 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 08:14:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43a61542-b42b-7f43-aa7f-3baf690dc24b@comcast.net> The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line.? Start with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder).? Some of us have installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. Bob On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > > What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 > BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? > help is most appreciated. > > Dennis Gavin > > Centerville, MA > > 63 BJ7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 24 09:16:10 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 08:16:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement In-Reply-To: <43a61542-b42b-7f43-aa7f-3baf690dc24b@comcast.net> References: <43a61542-b42b-7f43-aa7f-3baf690dc24b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <827e27e1-dfe2-c84f-d35e-fe48a6b56fa6@comcast.net> Forgot the photo. On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line.? Start > with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is > a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on > the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the > transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder).? Some of us have > installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr > Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on > eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting > for it to open. > > Bob > > On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: >> >> What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 >> BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? >> help is most appreciated. >> >> Dennis Gavin >> >> Centerville, MA >> >> 63 BJ7 >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bleeder.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 130527 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun May 24 09:46:11 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 11:46:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake sleeve Bleeder extention. Message-ID: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> One of the best addon items to my AH. Was able to obtain one 3 years ago from one on our members as there seems to be no maker any longer. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 11:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement Forgot the photo. On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. Bob On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups' help is most appreciated. Dennis Gavin Centerville, MA 63 BJ7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun May 24 09:53:01 2020 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 11:53:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement In-Reply-To: <827e27e1-dfe2-c84f-d35e-fe48a6b56fa6@comcast.net> References: <43a61542-b42b-7f43-aa7f-3baf690dc24b@comcast.net> <827e27e1-dfe2-c84f-d35e-fe48a6b56fa6@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002601d631e3$6793b940$36bb2bc0$@verizon.net> One of the best if not the best investments I ever made. I also got a complete set of brake lines from Doug. Fit like a glove John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 11:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement Forgot the photo. On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. Bob On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups' help is most appreciated. Dennis Gavin Centerville, MA 63 BJ7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Sun May 24 10:53:21 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 09:53:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement In-Reply-To: <827e27e1-dfe2-c84f-d35e-fe48a6b56fa6@comcast.net> References: <43a61542-b42b-7f43-aa7f-3baf690dc24b@comcast.net> <827e27e1-dfe2-c84f-d35e-fe48a6b56fa6@comcast.net> Message-ID: <146D6EE6-0E30-4EBE-8763-0B7EC847921B@gmail.com> We make a remote clutch bleeder part number BCS353 in out Hard to Find parts cataloge. However your problem is most likely not that the system needs bleeding, if the pedal feels normal and not spongy then there is not air in the system. I would recommend looking at the slop in the clutch pedal. The pedal should have almost zero free play in before the pushrod starts to move.We find many times that either the clutch pedal, clevis pin or push rods are worn. Causing excessive free play in the pedal resulting in the clutch not releasing. David Nock British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com > On May 24, 2020, at 8:16 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Forgot the photo. > > On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. >> >> Bob >> >> On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: >>> What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? help is most appreciated. >>> >>> Dennis Gavin >>> Centerville, MA >>> 63 BJ7 >>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun May 24 11:25:52 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 17:25:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Message-ID: OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank -----------------------------------------From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage. This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load. Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. [1]http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html [2] Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? From the team.net site : psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html [2] http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 24 12:03:17 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 11:03:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem References: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$.ref@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$@sbcglobal.net> When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could be wrong? John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun May 24 13:54:12 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:54:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake sleeve Bleeder extention. In-Reply-To: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> References: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Dennis, If you want to make one of these, I also have the pattern from one that Doug Reid sold, but I believe that David Nock also sells a model of an extension. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Robert Begani Sent: May 24, 2020 10:46 AM To: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Brake sleeve Bleeder extention. One of the best addon items to my AH. Was able to obtain one 3 years ago from one on our members as there seems to be no maker any longer. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 11:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement Forgot the photo. On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. Bob On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? help is most appreciated. Dennis Gavin Centerville, MA 63 BJ7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun May 24 14:25:38 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 16:25:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake sleeve Bleeder extention. In-Reply-To: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> References: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> Message-ID: After installing a Smitty's five-speed conversion I modified a Moss FG transmission cover and fabricated a new vertical panel which has a small removable door giving me easy access from the passenger footwell to the clutch cylinder. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 11:46 AM Robert Begani wrote: > One of the best addon items to my AH. Was able to obtain one 3 years ago > from one on our members as there seems to be no maker any longer. > > > > Bob Begani > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2020 11:16 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement > > > > Forgot the photo. > > On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a > good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and > often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder > is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or > dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder > extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is > unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a > Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. > > Bob > > On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > > What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 > and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? help is > most appreciated. > > > > Dennis Gavin > > Centerville, MA > > 63 BJ7 > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drtommitch at gmail.com Sun May 24 16:31:33 2020 From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 18:31:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake sleeve Bleeder extention. In-Reply-To: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> References: <007c01d631e2$740346b0$5c09d410$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I agree about the clutch slave extension, worth every penny. I bled my clutch slave cylinder on the side of the highway in less than 5 minutes, with my wife and others waiting. It clutch slave extension was unavailable when I needed it (and for a few other Toyota transmission transplants, so I make the clutch slave extension myself. It's not that difficult IMHO, well OK it took me an hour to figure out the curves and angles. On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 11:46 AM Robert Begani wrote: > One of the best addon items to my AH. Was able to obtain one 3 years ago > from one on our members as there seems to be no maker any longer. > > > > Bob Begani > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2020 11:16 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Clutch Low Engagement > > > > Forgot the photo. > > On 5/24/2020 8:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > The obvious, most likely problem is air in the clutch line. Start with a > good bloodletting of the clutch circuit. Unfortunately, this is a pain, and > often gets, uh, 'overlooked' because the bleed screw on the slave cylinder > is nigh impossible to reach without removing the transmission tunnel (or > dropping the slave cylinder). Some of us have installed bleeder > extensions; this one is from the late Doug Reid--'Mr Finespanner'--which is > unfortunately NLA (you might get lucky on eBay). I bled my clutch once in a > Texas Roadhouse parking lot waiting for it to open. > > Bob > > On 5/24/2020 4:55 AM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > > What are the causes & remedies for low clutch engagement? I have a 63 BJ7 > and the clutch now engages very close to the floor. This groups? help is > most appreciated. > > > > Dennis Gavin > > Centerville, MA > > 63 BJ7 > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun May 24 17:24:17 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 16:24:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs Message-ID: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> Hello, What are the tips and suggestions how to restore the dash knobs? I am guessing the material is Bakelite. Mine are dull and almost all of the white lettering is gone. Picture attached. Thanks.... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0703.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2835390 bytes Desc: not available URL: From schottc at knology.net Sun May 24 17:51:06 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:51:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs In-Reply-To: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> References: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> Message-ID: <708985045.6451849.1590364266170.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> We call it Bakelite but back then they called it hard rubber. I take a sewing pin and scratch out all the dirt and paint from the lettering. Then I fill in the lettering with a couple of coats of Testor's white enamel. After it dries, start with 400 sandpaper to sand off the over fill and I'll usually work up to 1000 sandpaper. Then I use a small paint brush to paint the knobs with Pensbury black ink, being careful not to cover the lettering. After it dries, I polish the knobs with a soft cloth to get a gloss finish. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harold Manifold" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 6:24:17 PM Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs Hello, What are the tips and suggestions how to restore the dash knobs? I am guessing the material is Bakelite. Mine are dull and almost all of the white lettering is gone. Picture attached. Thanks.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sun May 24 18:26:26 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 00:26:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs In-Reply-To: <708985045.6451849.1590364266170.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne>, <708985045.6451849.1590364266170.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: There is a product called Rub and Buff. Comes in lots of colors. No prep needed. Rub it on with your finger and wipe off with a soft rag. I used it on the red letters on the chrome plate (and the white lettering also). But note that not all Healey have recessed lettering. Sent from my iPhone On May 24, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Charles Schott wrote: ? We call it Bakelite but back then they called it hard rubber. I take a sewing pin and scratch out all the dirt and paint from the lettering. Then I fill in the lettering with a couple of coats of Testor's white enamel. After it dries, start with 400 sandpaper to sand off the over fill and I'll usually work up to 1000 sandpaper. Then I use a small paint brush to paint the knobs with Pensbury black ink, being careful not to cover the lettering. After it dries, I polish the knobs with a soft cloth to get a gloss finish. Regards, Charlie ________________________________ From: "Harold Manifold" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 6:24:17 PM Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs Hello, What are the tips and suggestions how to restore the dash knobs? I am guessing the material is Bakelite. Mine are dull and almost all of the white lettering is gone. Picture attached. Thanks.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 24 19:11:11 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 18:11:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem In-Reply-To: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$@sbcglobal.net> References: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I've had intermittency issues with my OD due to a bad dash switch, relay and throttle switch (not all at once).? I'd check the electrical stuff first, since it's (relatively) easy to get to. But, since the problem occurs when hot it could be the pump and/or accumulator. What fluid are you using? Bob On 5/24/2020 11:03 AM, John Spaur wrote: > > When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if > I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could > be wrong? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 24 20:20:03 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:20:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem In-Reply-To: References: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <00a201d6323b$010ae9c0$0320bd40$@sbcglobal.net> I use 30 weight oil. I have not had a chance to check all of the electrical but last time I checked it was good. I think it might be an issue with the switch at the shifter loosening. Interesting about the pump and accumulator. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 6:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem I've had intermittency issues with my OD due to a bad dash switch, relay and throttle switch (not all at once). I'd check the electrical stuff first, since it's (relatively) easy to get to. But, since the problem occurs when hot it could be the pump and/or accumulator. What fluid are you using? Bob On 5/24/2020 11:03 AM, John Spaur wrote: When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could be wrong? John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sun May 24 20:21:52 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:21:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d6323b$423ea7b0$c6bbf710$@cox.net> Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi then quickly comes back up to 450+. Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was hoping to avoid that. Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is it a lost cause? From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM To: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank ----------------------------------------- From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage. This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load. Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? >From the team.net site : psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2600 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 24 20:31:01 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 04:31:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs In-Reply-To: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> References: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> Message-ID: <16db04bc-2c8f-c261-c0e4-0d0a121c2738@chello.nl> Clean the knobs thoroughly using white spirits and let dry completely. Fill up the letters with white paint and let dry for a few days. Scrape over the top carefully with a razor blade to remove the excess paint and sand using 400/1000/2000 grid wet and dry. Then use a good polish cleaner and wax to rub the knob to a shiny finish. Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-5-2020 om 01:24 schreef Harold Manifold: > Hello, > What are the tips and suggestions how to restore the?dash knobs? I am > guessing the material is Bakelite. Mine are dull and almost all of the > white lettering is gone. Picture attached. > Thanks.... Harold > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun May 24 22:06:48 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 22:06:48 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question In-Reply-To: <915715842.114307162.1590379543135.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <000001d6323b$423ea7b0$c6bbf710$@cox.net> <915715842.114307162.1590379543135.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <1884105299.114308694.1590379608835.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;}As you say you need need new accumulator piston/rings/sleeve and O-Rings. This improved pressure on mine from 340 psi with very slow engaging to over 550 psi. Works fine now. Suggest that you upgrade to the modern O ring style piston instead of the original metal ring style. If you were closer could let you have the extra new spring that I have, but Can border closed. Overdrive Spares in UK are most helpful. Good luck ... rg ----- Original Message ----- From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 24 May 2020 20:21:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi then quickly comes back up to 450+. Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was hoping to avoid that. Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is it a lost cause? From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM To: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank-----------------------------------------From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage.This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load.Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure?Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off?I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? From the team.net site :psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi.Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 24 23:06:32 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 22:06:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem In-Reply-To: <00a201d6323b$010ae9c0$0320bd40$@sbcglobal.net> References: <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <006d01d631f5$9a951b60$cfbf5220$@sbcglobal.net> <00a201d6323b$010ae9c0$0320bd40$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: It probably won't cure the problem, but you could put a thicker oil in just to see what effect it has. Later BMC manuals endorse 20W-50--I used it in my BJ8 for many miles--but I've run MT-90 in the BJ8 and BN2 for years; works the same in both boxes. Bob On 5/24/2020 7:20 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I use 30 weight oil. I have not had a chance to check all of the > electrical but last time I checked it was good. I think it might be an > issue with the switch at the shifter loosening. Interesting about the > pump and accumulator. > > John > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2020 6:11 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem > > I've had intermittency issues with my OD due to a bad dash switch, > relay and throttle switch (not all at once).? I'd check the electrical > stuff first, since it's (relatively) easy to get to.? But, since the > problem occurs when hot it could be the pump and/or accumulator. What > fluid are you using? > > Bob > > On 5/24/2020 11:03 AM, John Spaur wrote: > > When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed > up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. > What could be wrong? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon May 25 05:53:50 2020 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 07:53:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs In-Reply-To: <16db04bc-2c8f-c261-c0e4-0d0a121c2738@chello.nl> References: <862B4F00A3E047D5AEF46D21D37F148A@AllInOne> <16db04bc-2c8f-c261-c0e4-0d0a121c2738@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1731977887.100558866.1590407630315.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> speaking of knobs--I just ordered a new choke cable from one of our very good suppliers. the quality of the knob itself was poor--the word "choke" was wavy. Poor aftermarket piece. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 24 May 2020 22:31:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Restoring Dash Knobs Clean the knobs thoroughly using white spirits and let dry completely. Fill up the letters with white paint and let dry for a few days. Scrape over the top carefully with a razor blade to remove the excess paint and sand using 400/1000/2000 grid wet and dry. Then use a good polish cleaner and wax to rub the knob to a shiny finish.Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-5-2020 om 01:24 schreef Harold Manifold: Hello, What are the tips and suggestions how to restore the dash knobs? I am guessing the material is Bakelite. Mine are dull and almost all of the white lettering is gone. Picture attached. Thanks.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon May 25 06:04:41 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 08:04:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question In-Reply-To: <1884105299.114308694.1590379608835.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <000001d6323b$423ea7b0$c6bbf710$@cox.net> <915715842.114307162.1590379543135.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1884105299.114308694.1590379608835.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Sorry but suggesting a replacement accumulator has me confused. If the pressure is staying up as described surely the accumulator is not leaking badly ... what am I missing? M On Mon., May 25, 2020, 12:10 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: > > > As you say you need need new accumulator piston/rings/sleeve and O-Rings. > This improved pressure on mine from 340 psi with very slow engaging to > over 550 psi. > Works fine now. > Suggest that you upgrade to the modern O ring style piston instead of the > original metal ring style. > If you were closer could let you have the extra new spring that I have, > but Can border closed. > Overdrive Spares in UK are most helpful. > Good luck ... > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: jpaynepbr at cox.net > To: gradea1 at charter.net > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, 24 May 2020 20:21:52 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question > > Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. > > > > Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. > > > > Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not > while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi > then quickly comes back up to 450+. > > > > Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was > hoping to avoid that. > > > > Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is > it a lost cause? > > > > > > > > *From:* gradea1 at charter.net > *Sent:* Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM > *To:* 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' > *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question > > > > OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously > stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- > 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot > mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball > will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and > spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the > condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as > well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in > addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage > in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when > applying it). Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: jpaynepbr at cox.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Cc: > Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM > Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question > > So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 > RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD > did not engage. > > This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it > is under no load. > > Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about > 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding > of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design > something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? > > Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? > > I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. > http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html > > > > Next step is to check the non return valve spring. > > Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of > the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the > head of the plunger? > > If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, > couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it > so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? > > From the team.net site : > > psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. > > Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring > in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that > it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem > sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. > Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you > can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The > purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each > power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized > accumulating chamber, [image: Image removed by sender. rework of the OD > hydraulic pump valve] > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon May 25 09:11:17 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 16:11:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel pump points Message-ID: <000001d632a6$bf720950$3e561bf0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Basic question is: "How long, approx., should they last? (Yes, there is a diode thing across them.) My car has been running OK. OKish...I'd swapped back from Webers to the three HD6s and had the car set up at the rolling road place. They leaned the mixture settings somewhat, saying it would run better and use less fuel. (A relative term). I noticed that it took much longer to settle down after starting. Quite a lot of rude noises and much play on the choke at intersections. And, when it was up to temperature, I wondered whether it was quite right.was it a bit sluggish or was I just used to the Webers? The other day, it hesitated and would have cut out. But, with one bound I switched over pumps, and I was free! However, the pump - double ended - had to come off for inspection. Both sets of points were completely shot. I replaced them. Nasty, fiddly business. Now the car starts much better and performs better all round. Surprisingly so.. I installed that pump in 2012, +/-12,500 miles ago. So that's +/- 6,250 miles per set of points. 1. Would failing points give those symptoms? (I was/am surprised..I though points either delivered 100% or failed 100%. I know that a judicious thump on the bulkhead can work in the short term.) 2. How long would you expect SU points to last? Thanks, Simon Glorious weather here and forecast all week. Perfect Healey weather. One is allowed out, but not really encouraged to go anywhere! Maddening. Pubs are certainly shut. Anyhow, keep well. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 25 10:29:33 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 09:29:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel pump points In-Reply-To: <000001d632a6$bf720950$3e561bf0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d632a6$bf720950$3e561bf0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <1f892056-a35a-1438-97f2-b72f3e93318f@comcast.net> There is no definitive answer. Sitting on the shelf, the points on a pump can oxidize and the pump may not work 'off-the-shelf' without a points cleaning (same for a car that sits too long). Note the points' throw-over mechanism, set up properly, is designed to 'wipe' the points with every cycle. Norman Nock said the pump would be removed and the points cleaned as part of normal dealer maintenance, at around 10K miles IIRC. At one time, at least, there were aftermarket points sold--maybe before SU Burlen got back in the business--that came in a generic white box and were made in one of the Chinas; quality was as expected (i.e. non-existent). I had a set fail in a couple hundred miles. I discussed this with the late Dave DuBois, who had a post-retirement avocation of pump restorer, favoring various electronic mechanisms, and he confirmed this theory. Those points looked to me to be made of silver, instead of tungsten, which is a dull gray color and, I think, may be more expensive than silver, and the points were pitted after a few miles. Dave designed the original, power transistor-based mod, but switched to a photo-breaker mechanism later; results vary (ironically, perhaps, the transistor-based mod didn't send enough current through the points to clean them). Some have allegedly had points last for decades and tens of thousands of miles, and some now swear by TVS diodes (I didn't have much luck with them). Like any points set, the points can stick to each other, which is sometimes remedied by banging on the pump or its mount with a suitable blunt instrument (fists, hammers, etc.). So, the answer is 'it depends.' I have had sets last several years--15-20K miles--and I've had various failures at points between with pretty much every alternative switching mechanism. As aggravating as the SU pumps can be, I've found engine-driven pumps to be even more pernicious, since filters and float bowls dry out and must be refilled by cranking the engine if the car has sat too long. In the case of my dad's '55 T-bird it's a crap shoot between the engine starting and the 6V battery being complete drained; worst case I have to resort to starter fluid. Bob On 5/25/2020 8:11 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > Basic question is: ?How long, approx., should they last? (Yes, there > is a diode thing across them.) > > My car has been running OK. OKish?..I?d swapped back from Webers to > the three HD6s and had the car set up at the rolling road place. They > leaned the mixture settings somewhat, saying it would run better and > use less fuel. (A relative term). I noticed that it took much longer > to settle down after starting. Quite a lot of rude noises and much > play on the choke at intersections. And, when it was up to > temperature, I wondered whether it was quite right?was it a bit > sluggish or was I just used to the Webers? > > The other day, it hesitated and would have cut out. But, with one > bound I switched over pumps, and I was free! However, the pump ? > double ended ? had to come off for inspection. Both sets of points > were completely shot. I replaced them. Nasty, fiddly business. Now the > car starts much better and performs better all round. Surprisingly so?. > > I installed that pump in 2012, +/-12,500 miles ago. So that?s +/- > 6,250 miles per set of points. > > 1. Would failing points give those symptoms? (I was/am surprised?.I > though points either delivered 100% or failed 100%. I know that a > judicious thump on the bulkhead can work in the short term.) > 2. How long would you expect SU points to last? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > Glorious weather here and forecast all week. Perfect Healey weather. > One is allowed out, but not really encouraged to go anywhere! > Maddening. Pubs are certainly shut. Anyhow, keep well. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 25 10:29:56 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 09:29:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: <49a27da0-a592-d8c8-92fc-49fcb0115773@comcast.net> #78: *https://tinyurl.com/y7mz7fde* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 25 10:32:06 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 09:32:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting II Message-ID: <8fcea057-c8ec-299f-1f38-d954a1215cc3@comcast.net> #45 (guess they couldn't find a photo of a real 100, or maybe they count the 100-6?): *https://tinyurl.com/y88h9edr* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon May 25 11:11:50 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:11:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem Message-ID: Could be solenoid overheating...drawing about 8 amps- it gets hot and won't function.Do the test on section G12 in the workshop manual to discover any electrics problems. Don't want to bring up the oil issue again, but what oil you are using could be a factor. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur" To: "" Cc: Sent: Sunday May 24 2020 1:35:34PM Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could be wrong? John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon May 25 11:43:47 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:43:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Message-ID: <031372ab57e03dee570880c23658ae452f4aaedc@webmail> Overdrive engagement is controlled by having enough pressure to overcome the 8 springs keeping the clutch from engaging the annulus. (Direct drive). There has to be sufficient pressure to keep the clutch attached to the annulus ring. (Overdrive position) This requires about 600lbs. Steady pressure from the pump. I would sit down with the Moss catalog and make a list of all the pressure parts and get new ones. Shoving washers in place is a make do and may not last long under road loads. After you get a parts list, contact Overdrive Spares, UK and buy them from this company. They are the original engineers of Laycock and know what you need to make good pressure. Best regards, Hank -----------------------------------------From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday May 24 2020 7:21:56PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi then quickly comes back up to 450+. Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was hoping to avoid that. Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is it a lost cause? FROM: gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM TO: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank ----------------------------------------- From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage. This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load. Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. [1]http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html [2] Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? From the team.net site : psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html [2] http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon May 25 11:44:50 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 11:44:50 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001d6323b$423ea7b0$c6bbf710$@cox.net> <915715842.114307162.1590379543135.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1884105299.114308694.1590379608835.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <1512567692.114828456.1590428690420.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> My thinking was that pressure may be escaping past worn accumulator piston rings and housing not allowing full pressure to build up ... ? rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Roger Grace Cc: healeylist Sent: Mon, 25 May 2020 06:04:41 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question Sorry but suggesting a replacement accumulator has me confused. If the pressure is staying up as described surely the accumulator is not leaking badly ... what am I missing?M On Mon., May 25, 2020, 12:10 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: As you say you need need new accumulator piston/rings/sleeve and O-Rings. This improved pressure on mine from 340 psi with very slow engaging to over 550 psi. Works fine now. Suggest that you upgrade to the modern O ring style piston instead of the original metal ring style. If you were closer could let you have the extra new spring that I have, but Can border closed. Overdrive Spares in UK are most helpful. Good luck ... rg ----- Original Message ----- From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 24 May 2020 20:21:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi then quickly comes back up to 450+. Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was hoping to avoid that. Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is it a lost cause? From:gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM To: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank-----------------------------------------From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage.This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load.Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure?Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off?I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html Next step is to check the non return valve spring. Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? From the team.net site :psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi.Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon May 25 12:14:19 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 11:14:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question In-Reply-To: <1512567692.114828456.1590428690420.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1512567692.114828456.1590428690420.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <54101DB0-945E-4D9D-8C47-28269C60135D@gmail.com> Remove the pump and take a close look with a loop at the check ball seat. You will find it is worn on one side. Purchase a 1/4? ball reamer and make a new seat for the check ball. Also remove the operating rod and do the same with a 5/16? ball reamer. David Nock British Car Specialists Sent from my iPhone > On May 25, 2020, at 10:50 AM, Roger Grace wrote: > > ? > My thinking was that pressure may be escaping past worn accumulator piston rings and housing not allowing full pressure to build up ... ? > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Salter > To: Roger Grace > Cc: healeylist > Sent: Mon, 25 May 2020 06:04:41 -0600 (MDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Overdrive non return valve Question > > Sorry but suggesting a replacement accumulator has me confused. If the pressure is staying up as described surely the accumulator is not leaking badly ... what am I missing? > M > >> On Mon., May 25, 2020, 12:10 a.m. Roger Grace, wrote: >> >> >> >> As you say you need need new accumulator piston/rings/sleeve and O-Rings. >> This improved pressure on mine from 340 psi with very slow engaging to over 550 psi. >> Works fine now. >> Suggest that you upgrade to the modern O ring style piston instead of the original metal ring style. >> If you were closer could let you have the extra new spring that I have, but Can border closed. >> Overdrive Spares in UK are most helpful. >> Good luck ... >> rg >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: jpaynepbr at cox.net >> To: gradea1 at charter.net >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sun, 24 May 2020 20:21:52 -0600 (MDT) >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question >> >> Shimmed the spring on the pump check valve by .08?. >> >> >> >> Shope let me borrow an accumulator spring that was 3/64? longer. >> >> >> >> Up to over 450+ psi now. OD will engage with the rear jacked up, but not while driving. On jack stands, when OD is engaged, drops to +/- 410 psi then quickly comes back up to 450+. >> >> >> >> Did not change out accumulator piston/rings/sleeve or O-Rings yet, was hoping to avoid that. >> >> >> >> Thinking about trying a 1/16? washer to shim the accumulator spring or is it a lost cause? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From:gradea1 at charter.net >> Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 10:26 AM >> To: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' >> Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question >> >> >> >> OD Pressure should be much higher-could be 600 PSI. As I previously stated, be sure that the ball in the operating valve is the correct size- 1/4" OD in pump valve. The upper valve uses a 5/16" OD ball and you cannot mix them up, our your pressure will not be there. Too large or small a ball will not seat in the valve chamber. Also, if replacing with a new ball and spring, take a brass drift and "seat" the ball in its position. What is the condition of the piston rings and O rings...they must be up to the task as well for them to hold that huge pressure. Use sealant on all gaskets and in addition the brake ring seal to each side of the case (ignore the passage in the workshop book that says no sealant there-just be careful when applying it). Hank >> >> ----------------------------------------- >> >> From: jpaynepbr at cox.net >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Cc: >> Sent: Saturday May 23 2020 5:36:24PM >> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive non return valve Question >> >> >> So I pressure tested the OD at the operating valve plug ? 370 PSI at 1,000 RPM in 4th. Drops to about 340 PSI when I attempt to engage the OD. OD did not engage. >> >> This is with the back end on jack stands (not the recalled ones!), so it is under no load. >> >> Held 150 PSI for about 20 minutes after being shut off and then took about 2 hours to drop below 100 PSI. At least I now have a better understanding of why these things leak so badly. Who in their right mind would design something to hold that sort of residual oil pressure? >> >> Based on all the reading, pressure is too low, but nothing appears way off? >> >> I?m using the Team.Net Tech site. http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html >> >> >> >> Next step is to check the non return valve spring. >> >> Question, why would I take it to a machinist to add .084? to the head of the little plunger instead of just putting a washer on the back side of the head of the plunger? >> >> If the stem length/ insertion length into spring is that important, couldn?t I could add length to that at home with my mig welder and file it so that the spring moves freely and doesn?t hang up? >> >> From the team.net site : >> >> psi, but for proper operation, the pressure should be at 470 to 490 psi. >> >> Now, finally... the OD low oil pressure cause and fix. A fatigued spring in the non-return valve portion of the OD (see Fig. 6.19). What? Is that it? You must be kidding - I waited two months for this? Yes, it does seem sort of anti-climactic, but this spring can cause major frustration. Springs are like people - as they age, they get shorter and weaker. As you can see in Fig. 6.19, the spring pushes against a ball and plunger. The purpose of this spring is to allow the ball to lift from its seat at each power stroke of the OD pump, allowing oil to flow into the pressurized accumulating chamber, >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 25 13:01:15 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 19:01:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only screw one on the cross member of the frame.? The other mounting hole were a problem.? Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with the frame.? Best way to get this out?? Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that.? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Mon May 25 13:30:12 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 15:30:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans Message-ID: What is the quietest, 14? electric fan on the market? Thanks in advance! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 25 14:22:49 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 22:22:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel pump points In-Reply-To: <000001d632a6$bf720950$3e561bf0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d632a6$bf720950$3e561bf0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Points in an SU fuel pump should last a very long way. In my first car with the SU AUF301 (as in many A-H's 3000) it lasted at least 160.000mls or 8 years (1977-1985) in my daily driver Jensen-Healey. Never even touched the pump. After the car was laid up it was still started regularly every year without trouble until the intervals became larger and larger and about 5 years ago it failed. As my present Jensen-Healey did not have an original fuel pump, I took the one from my old car and rebuild it. The only thing wrong were the points. They had electrolytic corrosion big time. Cleaning and polishing the points (2000 grid) and a dusting of talcum powder between the three layers of the old fashioned diaphragm to make it supple again, had it up and running in my new J-H until this day, another 35.000mls. The trick is to set them up properly. All explained in the SU instructions. Very easy.? It is also imperative that the car is used on a regular basis. These pumps are very easy to rebuild. It only takes less than an hour. Usually no new parts, apart from a gasket, are needed as long as you leave the valves and its seals plus air chambers alone. These usually do not need any attention. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Check by blowing/sucking into the in/outlet if there is any leakage (make sure there is absolutely no fuel in the pump, inhaling fuel can be lethal). In some instances the points can be worn beyond repair and they have to be replaced, but even new points need to be cleaned, polished and set up properly (0,9mm top blade, 2,3mm lower bridge). Fit the pomp body and the coil body together with the vent hole of the cap pointing upwards. Fit the pump in the proper orientation in the car (indicated on the body). Failing points could cause the pump to run erratic leading to fuel starvation. Not a very common situation. An SU pump incl. the points will nearly last you for ever, but it needs maintenance. Every year clean the points wit a bit of double folded 2000 grid wet and dry and seal the cap with friction tape. Main thing is these pumps need to be exercised regularly. Failing to do so will cause them to fail. Most will be fitted with a capacitor, a cilindrical yellow/gray part fitted between earth and the spring blade with points. It works OK and it makes the pump dual polarity. Later pumps have a diode fitted between the power terminal and the points, this makes the pump polarity sensitive, turning around the diode will change the polarity. I always fit a transil, a sort of bidirectional zener diode, which make the pump dual polarity as well and limits the maximum voltage to prevent sparking. I often leave the capacitor in place as well. Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-5-2020 om 17:11 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > > Basic question is: ?How long, approx., should they last? (Yes, there > is a diode thing across them.) > > My car has been running OK. OKish?..I?d swapped back from Webers to > the three HD6s and had the car set up at the rolling road place. They > leaned the mixture settings somewhat, saying it would run better and > use less fuel. (A relative term). I noticed that it took much longer > to settle down after starting. Quite a lot of rude noises and much > play on the choke at intersections. And, when it was up to > temperature, I wondered whether it was quite right?was it a bit > sluggish or was I just used to the Webers? > > The other day, it hesitated and would have cut out. But, with one > bound I switched over pumps, and I was free! However, the pump ? > double ended ? had to come off for inspection. Both sets of points > were completely shot. I replaced them. Nasty, fiddly business. Now the > car starts much better and performs better all round. Surprisingly so?. > > I installed that pump in 2012, +/-12,500 miles ago. So that?s +/- > 6,250 miles per set of points. > > 1. Would failing points give those symptoms? (I was/am surprised?.I > though points either delivered 100% or failed 100%. I know that a > judicious thump on the bulkhead can work in the short term.) > 2. How long would you expect SU points to last? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > Glorious weather here and forecast all week. Perfect Healey weather. > One is allowed out, but not really encouraged to go anywhere! > Maddening. Pubs are certainly shut. Anyhow, keep well. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Mon May 25 14:43:21 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 16:43:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <011701d632d5$21624700$6426d500$@gmail.com> Mike ? if anyone in your area does EDM electronic discharge/disintegration work, that might be the way to get it out without damaging anything in the process. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:01 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon May 25 15:16:19 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:16:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Price The key to your question is another question. Since the size is one parameter, the flow in CFM should be another. Then the question is ?What is the quietest, 14? electric fan that flows at ???? CFM on the market?? The noise generated by the fan will definitely be impacted by the pitch and/or design of the blades which has a big impact on the CFM. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: R. Lindsay Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:33 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans What is the quietest, 14? electric fan on the market? Thanks in advance! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon May 25 15:25:50 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 17:25:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <074301d632db$10b82ae0$322880a0$@gmail.com> Hi Price: I bought and installed the Hayden fan because it had the best reputation. With the engine running, do not hear it at all. At idle you can hear a little noise. By the way, I took my radiator to be re-cored and learned it was stuffed with rust and debris, so partial disassembly and flushing it out should give me much more cooling. Also, Ray indicated it was already re-corded although it was an older model which is not as efficient as newer cores. Should have taken it for a cleaning while the engine was being rebuilt, among other things. Waiting for a new hose so I can fill the radiator and start the engine before l leave for the Northland. Regards, Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans What is the quietest, 14? electric fan on the market? Thanks in advance! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 25 15:29:48 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 23:29:48 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Fans In-Reply-To: <20200525211632.731BEA2CDA@autox.team.net> References: <20200525211632.731BEA2CDA@autox.team.net> Message-ID: The noise is not really that important as the fan will only kick in when stationary or in dense traffic. When on the move properly it will not be powered unless something is amiss or if the engine is under strain in e.g. the mountains. The fan does not need an awful lot of flow but it needs to be fitted to the radiator in such a way that there is no "leakage" of air around the fan, all flow generated should pass through the radiator. Kees Oudesluijs Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-5-2020 om 23:16 schreef Perry via Healeys: > > Price > > The key to your question is another question. Since the size is one > parameter, the flow in CFM should be another.? Then the question is > > ?What is the quietest, 14? electric fan that flows at ???? CFM on the > market?? > > The noise generated by the fan will definitely be impacted by the > pitch and/or design of the blades which has a big impact on the CFM. > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *R. Lindsay > *Sent: *Monday, May 25, 2020 3:33 PM > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[Healeys] Electric Fans > > What is the quietest, 14? electric fan on the market? > > Thanks in advance! > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 25 19:23:58 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 18:23:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011201d632fc$54c9b160$fe5d1420$@sbcglobal.net> When I check it electrically, everything works although I have not checked in a year. This issue started about a year ago. I will checking it in a couple of weeks when I install new carbs and take care of some other small items. I have been using 30 weight non-detergent. I use 20/50 in the engine. John From: gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 10:12 AM To: 'John Spaur' Cc: '[healeys at Autox.Team.Net]' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem Could be solenoid overheating...drawing about 8 amps- it gets hot and won't function.Do the test on section G12 in the workshop manual to discover any electrics problems. Don't want to bring up the oil issue again, but what oil you are using could be a factor. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "John Spaur" To: "" Cc: Sent: Sunday May 24 2020 1:35:34PM Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could be wrong? John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 25 19:23:58 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 18:23:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011201d632fc$54c9b160$fe5d1420$@sbcglobal.net> When I check it electrically, everything works although I have not checked in a year. This issue started about a year ago. I will checking it in a couple of weeks when I install new carbs and take care of some other small items. I have been using 30 weight non-detergent. I use 20/50 in the engine. John From: gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 10:12 AM To: 'John Spaur' Cc: '[healeys at Autox.Team.Net]' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem Could be solenoid overheating...drawing about 8 amps- it gets hot and won't function.Do the test on section G12 in the workshop manual to discover any electrics problems. Don't want to bring up the oil issue again, but what oil you are using could be a factor. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "John Spaur" To: "" Cc: Sent: Sunday May 24 2020 1:35:34PM Subject: [Healeys] Intermittent OD problem When the car is cold the OD will work fine. However, once warmed up if I turn it off and then switch it on, it will not reengage. What could be wrong? John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon May 25 20:54:03 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 19:54:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <011701d632d5$21624700$6426d500$@gmail.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <011701d632d5$21624700$6426d500$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <192E4B9352B14B5E9A92A767D290B493@AllInOne> There are a few options, none guaranteed. 1. Drill a hole in the broken screw and use a screw extractor. Apply as much heat as you can. 2. Drill the correct size hole in the broken bolt for a tap and rethread the hole. Works well if you can drill very close to the centre but this is easier said than done when drilling by hand. Good luck.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of alfuller194 at gmail.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 1:43 PM To: 'Michael MacLean'; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw Mike - if anyone in your area does EDM electronic discharge/disintegration work, that might be the way to get it out without damaging anything in the process. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:01 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 25 22:08:40 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 21:08:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <192E4B9352B14B5E9A92A767D290B493@AllInOne> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <011701d632d5$21624700$6426d500$@gmail.com> <192E4B9352B14B5E9A92A767D290B493@AllInOne> Message-ID: <011c01d63313$56ece810$04c6b830$@sbcglobal.net> The location of the broken screw makes it very hard to access with a drill unless the engine is removed. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 7:54 PM To: alfuller194 at gmail.com; 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw There are a few options, none guaranteed. 1. Drill a hole in the broken screw and use a screw extractor. Apply as much heat as you can. 2. Drill the correct size hole in the broken bolt for a tap and rethread the hole. Works well if you can drill very close to the centre but this is easier said than done when drilling by hand. Good luck.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of alfuller194 at gmail.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 1:43 PM To: 'Michael MacLean'; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw Mike - if anyone in your area does EDM electronic discharge/disintegration work, that might be the way to get it out without damaging anything in the process. ---------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:01 PM To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Mon May 25 22:09:58 2020 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 04:09:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 Fuel tank fitting stripped References: <1642947248.3147758.1590466198091.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1642947248.3147758.1590466198091@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, It's been a while! After a long hiatus (putting 5 kids through college and working out of state and abroad). I am in the final stretch on restoring my 56 100 BN2.? The previous weekend, i finished the windscreen and this Memorial weekend, I installed and wired up the indicators (LED based) and installed the tonneau and some small tasks like fixing badges. Interior and some small tasks are all that's left. My seat frames, bases, etc,.. have been on the way for 2 weeks but will arrive at Geoff Chrysler place tomorrow to work his magic.? He will also make the Armacord pieces for the rear deck. I am happy Rich son is involved and continues his dad's legacy. I ran into a small snag that needs some technical advice:?the thread on the (brass) female fuel fitting on my gastank has stripped and I can't get enough pressure to create a seal on the compression fitting.? When I bought the tank off ebay, I chased the threads some 9 years ago. I then installed the fuel pIpe, sourced from Mr. Finespanner, so a stock/original setup. The tank probably had an NPT fitting screwed in at some point in time, else i blame the ethanol. I am looking at my options: -Installing a 1/4 BSP Helicoil.? I not sure that I can drill/tap deep enough for the Helicoil, I don't want to destroy the mating surface of the compression fitting. -Drilling/tapping for a slightly larger diameter fitting.? 1/4 NPT?? 1/4 NPTF?? Same concern as above. -Finding an original 1/4 BSP flange fitting from a donor tank and solder it in place? Is the pickup line integrated? Anybody has a donor? -Solder in the original 1/4 BSPP Male fitting and solder in the fuel pipe without the compression sleeve, cutting the line behind the bulkhead and reconnecting with a piece of flexible pipe. All in a way the tank can be removed at later date. -Buy. a new fuel tank, I guess enough options, I am probably overthinking it. What's the best solution? thanks, Bert From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 25 22:50:40 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 04:50:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <011c01d63313$56ece810$04c6b830$@sbcglobal.net> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <011701d632d5$21624700$6426d500$@gmail.com> <192E4B9352B14B5E9A92A767D290B493@AllInOne> <011c01d63313$56ece810$04c6b830$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1648026855.1156067.1590468640488@mail.yahoo.com> The engine is still under assembly.? Not in the car yet.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 9:09 PM, John Spaur wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 26 01:04:52 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 09:04:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 BN2 Fuel tank fitting stripped In-Reply-To: <1642947248.3147758.1590466198091@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1642947248.3147758.1590466198091.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1642947248.3147758.1590466198091@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It there is enough meat, enlarge the hole until the thread is gone and tap a new bigger thread but check first what plugs are available to choose the thread.. Ethanol has nothing to do with this. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-5-2020 om 06:09 schreef Bert Van Brande via Healeys: > Hi, > > It's been a while! After a long hiatus (putting 5 kids through college and working out of state and abroad). I am in the final stretch on restoring my 56 100 BN2.? The previous weekend, i finished the windscreen and this Memorial weekend, I installed and wired up the indicators (LED based) and installed the tonneau and some small tasks like fixing badges. Interior and some small tasks are all that's left. > > My seat frames, bases, etc,.. have been on the way for 2 weeks but will arrive at Geoff Chrysler place tomorrow to work his magic.? He will also make the Armacord pieces for the rear deck. I am happy Rich son is involved and continues his dad's legacy. > > I ran into a small snag that needs some technical advice:?the thread on the (brass) female fuel fitting on my gastank has stripped and I can't get enough pressure to create a seal on the compression fitting.? When I bought the tank off ebay, I chased the threads some 9 years ago. I then installed the fuel pIpe, sourced from Mr. Finespanner, so a stock/original setup. The tank probably had an NPT fitting screwed in at some point in time, else i blame the ethanol. > > I am looking at my options: > > -Installing a 1/4 BSP Helicoil.? I not sure that I can drill/tap deep enough for the Helicoil, I don't want to destroy the mating surface of the compression fitting. > -Drilling/tapping for a slightly larger diameter fitting.? 1/4 NPT?? 1/4 NPTF?? Same concern as above. > -Finding an original 1/4 BSP flange fitting from a donor tank and solder it in place? Is the pickup line integrated? Anybody has a donor? > -Solder in the original 1/4 BSPP Male fitting and solder in the fuel pipe without the compression sleeve, cutting the line behind the bulkhead and reconnecting with a piece of flexible pipe. All in a way the tank can be removed at later date. > -Buy. a new fuel tank, > > I guess enough options, I am probably overthinking it. What's the best solution? > > thanks, > > Bert > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 26 09:55:56 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 08:55:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] MG Message-ID: Though I'm a certifiable 'Healey Nut,' I've always been curious about the Morris/MG backstory. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2137480 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue May 26 10:51:12 2020 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 12:51:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Mike, My 2 cents. File the end of the bolt flat if possible, then center punch to give the drill a place to start. Begin with a very small bit in the center and keep going up until you get near the original threads and use a dental pick to clean out the threads. Use a thread chaser if needed. Good luck! Rick Neville On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only > screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a > problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped > one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? > Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue May 26 11:08:35 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 13:08:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rick has absolutely nailed it ... takes patience and a steady hand but really isn't too difficult after you have practiced a few times. Bravo Rick!! M On Tue., May 26, 2020, 1:01 p.m. HealeyRick, wrote: > Hi Mike, > > My 2 cents. File the end of the bolt flat if possible, then center punch > to give the drill a place to start. Begin with a very small bit in the > center and keep going up until you get near the original threads and use a > dental pick to clean out the threads. Use a thread chaser if needed. > > Good luck! > Rick Neville > > On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only >> screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a >> problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped >> one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? >> Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 26 11:11:26 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 19:11:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <37bd2bdd-3b64-a551-f8c0-b1ecd32ba4b7@chello.nl> You could use left hand drill bits (not meaning the LH threaded bolt removers) and you may be lucky that the remainder will come out. However start as Rick Neville said by filing flat the remainder first if at all possible and use a centre punch dead in the middle. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-5-2020 om 18:51 schreef HealeyRick: > Hi Mike, > > My 2 cents.? File the end of the bolt flat if possible, then center > punch to give the drill a place to start.? Begin with a very small bit > in the center and keep going up until you get near the original > threads and use a dental pick to clean out the threads.? Use a thread > chaser if needed. > > Good luck! > Rick Neville > > On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael MacLean > > wrote: > > Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could > only screw one on the cross member of the frame.? The other > mounting hole were a problem.? Somewhere, sometime in the past > whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with > the frame.? Best way to get this out?? Must have been corroded in > place to snap off like that. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 26 11:53:55 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 17:53:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <834296376.1472113.1590515635431@mail.yahoo.com> Filing the screw flat will not be a problem.? Access with the shroud in place is just a little awkward.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 9:51:25 AM PDT, HealeyRick wrote: Hi Mike, My 2 cents.? File the end of the bolt flat if possible, then center punch to give the drill a place to start.? Begin with a very small bit in the center and keep going up until you get near the original threads and use a dental pick to clean out the threads.? Use a thread chaser if needed.?? Good luck!Rick Neville On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only screw one on the cross member of the frame.? The other mounting hole were a problem.? Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped one of the screws off flush with the frame.? Best way to get this out?? Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that.? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: screw.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 95945 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue May 26 12:11:15 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 11:11:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, I just looked at your photo and I would like to add a correction. The broken off "screw" you described looks more like a broken off bolt to me. You can safely put a two second first tack on the end of that one to get things started. . ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: richard mayor Date: Tue, May 26, 2020 at 11:03 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw To: Michael MacLean This is what I would do. Using your MIG welder, put a tack weld on the end of the screw. A short one second tac for the first one . Then stack another tack or two or three or four on top of that. Using a pair of vise grips, twist the tacked on tacks. It may easily break off the first time or even the second time. That is a good thing because you only want to tack to the end of the screw and nothing more. The heat will break the rust bond and the screw will come out easily. Drilling and attempting to use easy outs are a waste of time and most certainly you will bugger up the threads no matter have meticulous you are. Been there and done that many times. On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only > screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a > problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped > one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? > Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue May 26 15:57:28 2020 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 17:57:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think what Richard is suggesting is to find a nut with an inner diameter smaller than the bolt diameter, then MIGing it through the nut opening to the bolt and using the nut to turn it out I'd want to heat up the bolt first as it looks like it's probably tightly fused by paint and probably rust. OR ... it looks to be about .38 size. Just shoot it out of there. Rick Neville On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:25 PM richard mayor wrote: > Mike, > I just looked at your photo and I would like to add a correction. The > broken off "screw" you described looks more like a broken off bolt to me. > You can safely put a two second first tack on the end of that one to get > things started. . > > ---------- Forwarded message --------- > From: richard mayor > Date: Tue, May 26, 2020 at 11:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw > To: Michael MacLean > > > This is what I would do. Using your MIG welder, put a tack weld on the end > of the screw. A short one second tac for the first one . Then stack > another tack or two or three or four on top of that. Using a pair of vise > grips, twist the tacked on tacks. It may easily break off the first time or > even the second time. That is a good thing because you only want to tack to > the end of the screw and nothing more. The heat will break the rust bond > and the screw will come out easily. > Drilling and attempting to use easy outs are a waste of time and most > certainly you will bugger up the threads no matter have meticulous you > are. Been there and done that many times. > > On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:05 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only >> screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a >> problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped >> one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? >> Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 26 16:10:05 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 22:10:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue May 26 17:13:16 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 16:13:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:57 PM HealeyRick wrote: > I think what Richard is suggesting is to find a nut with an inner diameter > smaller than the bolt diameter, then MIGing it through the nut opening to > the bolt and using the nut to turn it out I'd want to heat up the bolt > first as it looks like it's probably tightly fused by paint and probably > rust. OR ... it looks to be about .38 size. Just shoot it out of there. > > Rick Neville > > On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:25 PM richard mayor > wrote: > >> Mike, >> I just looked at your photo and I would like to add a correction. The >> broken off "screw" you described looks more like a broken off bolt to me. >> You can safely put a two second first tack on the end of that one to get >> things started. . >> >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- >> From: richard mayor >> Date: Tue, May 26, 2020 at 11:03 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw >> To: Michael MacLean >> >> >> This is what I would do. Using your MIG welder, put a tack weld on the >> end of the screw. A short one second tac for the first one . Then stack >> another tack or two or three or four on top of that. Using a pair of vise >> grips, twist the tacked on tacks. It may easily break off the first time or >> even the second time. That is a good thing because you only want to tack to >> the end of the screw and nothing more. The heat will break the rust bond >> and the screw will come out easily. >> Drilling and attempting to use easy outs are a waste of time and most >> certainly you will bugger up the threads no matter have meticulous you >> are. Been there and done that many times. >> >> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:05 PM Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >>> Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only >>> screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a >>> problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped >>> one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? >>> Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. >>> Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue May 26 17:17:19 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 16:17:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'm not suggesting you use a nut. Just weld a series of tacks to the end of the broken off bolt. The heat from tacking the welds is usually sufficient to do the trick. Build up a little tower of tack welds and use needle nose vice grips to twist the bolt out. On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:57 PM HealeyRick wrote: > I think what Richard is suggesting is to find a nut with an inner diameter > smaller than the bolt diameter, then MIGing it through the nut opening to > the bolt and using the nut to turn it out I'd want to heat up the bolt > first as it looks like it's probably tightly fused by paint and probably > rust. OR ... it looks to be about .38 size. Just shoot it out of there. > > Rick Neville > > On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:25 PM richard mayor > wrote: > >> Mike, >> I just looked at your photo and I would like to add a correction. The >> broken off "screw" you described looks more like a broken off bolt to me. >> You can safely put a two second first tack on the end of that one to get >> things started. . >> >> ---------- Forwarded message --------- >> From: richard mayor >> Date: Tue, May 26, 2020 at 11:03 AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Broken Screw >> To: Michael MacLean >> >> >> This is what I would do. Using your MIG welder, put a tack weld on the >> end of the screw. A short one second tac for the first one . Then stack >> another tack or two or three or four on top of that. Using a pair of vise >> grips, twist the tacked on tacks. It may easily break off the first time or >> even the second time. That is a good thing because you only want to tack to >> the end of the screw and nothing more. The heat will break the rust bond >> and the screw will come out easily. >> Drilling and attempting to use easy outs are a waste of time and most >> certainly you will bugger up the threads no matter have meticulous you >> are. Been there and done that many times. >> >> On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 12:05 PM Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >>> Went to install the rebuilt horns on my BN2 last night and could only >>> screw one on the cross member of the frame. The other mounting hole were a >>> problem. Somewhere, sometime in the past whoever removed the horns snapped >>> one of the screws off flush with the frame. Best way to get this out? >>> Must have been corroded in place to snap off like that. >>> Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Tue May 26 17:39:32 2020 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 23:39:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <24219040.137976.1590536372868@mail.yahoo.com> Mike? Try everything you can to remove the broken screw part and preserve the original thread. Some good options have been suggested. If all that fails and you have to drill it out oversize look at "Riv-nuts"as a possibility. They are pop rivets with an inside thread. Might just be an answer to your situation. On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 3:11:16 PM PDT, Michael MacLean wrote: As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue May 26 19:10:02 2020 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 01:10:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <938056538.188319.1590541802800@mail.yahoo.com> Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 26 19:16:26 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 01:16:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <938056538.188319.1590541802800@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> <938056538.188319.1590541802800@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <865558167.210624.1590542186987@mail.yahoo.com> This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear.Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue May 26 19:20:33 2020 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 01:20:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <865558167.210624.1590542186987@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1710121800.979015.1590433275728.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1710121800.979015.1590433275728@mail.yahoo.com> <728887422.115356.1590531005068@mail.yahoo.com> <938056538.188319.1590541802800@mail.yahoo.com> <865558167.210624.1590542186987@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <883240700.214729.1590542433601@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, So much for my solution. The box beam negates my idea. Good luck. Larry -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; boyracer466 at gmail.com ; Larry Wendland Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 9:16 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear. Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed May 27 09:03:35 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 11:03:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery Message-ID: Some will recall that I came up with a solution to the problem of not being able to get aesthetically correct 6 volt batteries for my concours 100. I had heard that reproductions were now available but, after many tries, I gave up trying to purchase them. Well there have been developments and I have added the details AT THE BOTTOM of the original post which you can view here. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 27 09:33:53 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 08:33:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5714227a-2bde-8f39-58dc-48a7a8cb3870@comcast.net> Side Note: I'd heard that Antique Auto Battery was back in business--there was a thread, IIRC, on one of the forums--but their website is NLA. I expected it to be a 'shoestring' business, maybe CV19 put the kabosh on it? Michael, was AAB where you tried to get the repops? Bob ps. My '55 T-Bird has a 6V system, with a tray size that is entirely off-the wall. There's a 6V Optima battery--one of the good, older ones--but it's not even close to being a good fit. On 5/27/2020 8:03 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Some will recall that I came up with a solution to the problem of not > being able to get aesthetically correct 6 volt batteries for my > concours 100. > I had heard that reproductions were now available but, after many > tries, I gave up trying to purchase them. > Well there have been developments and I have added the details AT THE > BOTTOM > of the original post which you can view here. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Wed May 27 09:41:24 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 11:41:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1140781964.1073923.1590594084064.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Has anyone tried these batteries? Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 10:03:35 AM Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery Some will recall that I came up with a solution to the problem of not being able to get aesthetically correct 6 volt batteries for my concours 100. I had heard that reproductions were now available but, after many tries, I gave up trying to purchase them. Well there have been developments and I have added the details AT THE BOTTOM of the original post which you can view here. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Scan_20200527.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1177955 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed May 27 09:45:03 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 11:45:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery In-Reply-To: <5714227a-2bde-8f39-58dc-48a7a8cb3870@comcast.net> References: <5714227a-2bde-8f39-58dc-48a7a8cb3870@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yep that's correct Bob ... now apparently called Jim's Battery I think. M On Wed., May 27, 2020, 11:34 a.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: > Side Note: I'd heard that Antique Auto Battery was back in business--there > was a thread, IIRC, on one of the forums--but their website is NLA. I > expected it to be a 'shoestring' business, maybe CV19 put the kabosh on it? > > Michael, was AAB where you tried to get the repops? > > Bob > > ps. My '55 T-Bird has a 6V system, with a tray size that is entirely > off-the wall. There's a 6V Optima battery--one of the good, older ones--but > it's not even close to being a good fit. > > > On 5/27/2020 8:03 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Some will recall that I came up with a solution to the problem of not > being able to get aesthetically correct 6 volt batteries for my concours > 100. > I had heard that reproductions were now available but, after many tries, I > gave up trying to purchase them. > Well there have been developments and I have added the details AT THE > BOTTOM > of the original post which you can view here. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed May 27 10:48:42 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 12:48:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed Message-ID: In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back together. Specifically, I need to know how the bell crank mounts: 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the bellcrank is mounted on the post? 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing inboard (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the post? Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? TIA....Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed May 27 11:23:41 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 13:23:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I this any help Michael? On Wed., May 27, 2020, 12:59 p.m. Michael Oritt, wrote: > In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair > the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle > linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to > disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back together. Specifically, > I need to know how the bell crank mounts: > > 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the > bellcrank is mounted on the post? > 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing > inboard (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the > post? > > Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? > > TIA....Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200527_132254.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1954892 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed May 27 11:35:06 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 13:35:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Somewhat--it does show that the spacer/bushing sits on the outboard face. However according to that illustration the two shafts seem to mount to the same arm. I'm going to assume that the piece from the throttle pedal attaches to the arm closest to the pedal and the short connecting member which goes to the throttle shaft goes to the other. I'll give this a try when I attack things again in the morning. Many thanks to both you and Roland Wilhelmy who sent some good closeup pics. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 1:23 PM Michael Salter wrote: > I this any help Michael? > > On Wed., May 27, 2020, 12:59 p.m. Michael Oritt, > wrote: > >> In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair >> the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle >> linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to >> disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back together. Specifically, >> I need to know how the bell crank mounts: >> >> 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the >> bellcrank is mounted on the post? >> 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing >> inboard (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the >> post? >> >> Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? >> >> TIA....Michael Oritt >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Wed May 27 11:45:16 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 10:45:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7C417B8D620C41ADB238EDBA4BB5AD94@DavidNockHP> David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 9:48 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back together. Specifically, I need to know how the bell crank mounts: 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the bellcrank is mounted on the post? 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing inboard (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the post? Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? TIA....Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 104_0484[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 88900 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 104_0490[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 92407 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 104_0861[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89915 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 104_0849[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 93189 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed May 27 14:18:55 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 16:18:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mech Engineer Question Message-ID: Thought I would do a fairly simple calculation on a four blade fan I was looking at to figure out the CFM at several different RPM?s. At my age I have learned to ask for help when things don?t look right. Can someone check my results on this and let me know? Fan pitch= 1-1/8 inch or 0.09375 feet Fan overall diameter=14.75 inches or 1.23 feet CFM @ 700 RPM =3066 CFM CFM @1000 RPM =4380 CFM CFM @4000 RMP= 17520 CFM Thanks Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 27 16:08:56 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 22:08:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed May 27 17:02:09 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 19:02:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4bcfde37-6230-5052-92c0-a9eae02c6783@earthlink.net> I have a package shipped via Royal Mail/USPS sitting in customs in Chicago. USPS states that it can take up to 45 days to clear customs. 20 days so far. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/27/20 6:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and > after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to > buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping > $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects > sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage > back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought > them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery > date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason > they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for > the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days > before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative > offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is > having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the > UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is > at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if > you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal > Mail. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed May 27 17:18:38 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 00:18:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6347d$28a70880$79f51980$@alexarevel.plus.com> One hates to be fair but??the Royal Mail does actually deliver on time. Domestic ?First Class? post over here is guaranteed next day delivery so long as the item is posted before the last pick-up, normally about 16:30. They?ll fly a small aircraft over to, say, one of the Scottish islands even if there is only one letter on board. That?s the law, their legal obligation. My guess is that the package passed out of their hands into those of anther agency, be it customs or whatever. Typically, if we post something to France ?First Class?, the Royal Mail controls it until it lands in France, normally Charles de Gaulle, Paris. After that, all bets are off. La Poste has it and you can whistle? At the moment, over here at least, all delivery systems are suffering. Mail Centres are crowded places, very highly automated but still quite labour intensive. Lots of people, lots of proximity. Quarantine and illness is playing havoc with manning and your package is probably typical. My observation is that other couriers are suffering more than the Royal Mail and more likely to be late because the Royal Mail has a more highly practised method of recruiting what they call ?Casuals? or temporaries?.usually employed from +/- end of November until early January ie Christmas. They are having to do that at the moment in order to fill in the Covid gaps. With, at best, semi-trained staff things will slow down. Of course, Denis Welch will have been running a skeleton staff and how quickly things actually get despatched is moot. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 27 May 2020 23:09 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells. (cost with shipping $110) These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan. With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th. They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office. For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States. Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system. I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS). I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them. Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more. Not sure who is at fault here; me, Welch or the Royal Mail. Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Wed May 27 17:24:29 2020 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 09:24:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6347d$f8f7bcf0$eae736d0$@cosmos.net.au> Hi Mike, this is pretty much normal for international freight at the moment weather for private or for business. You have to remember that a lot of freight was going by passenger flights, so no flights, no freight. Then there is the issue of social distancing in workplaces which has slowed down customs clearances. The world as it is?. Cheers Larry Varley From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 28 May 2020 08:09 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells. (cost with shipping $110) These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan. With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th. They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office. For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States. Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system. I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS). I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them. Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more. Not sure who is at fault here; me, Welch or the Royal Mail. Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed May 27 17:28:24 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 09:28:24 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <009f01d6347e$85400fa0$8fc02ee0$@tpg.com.au> Hello The problem lies with the mail systems throughout the world. We would send items around the world three or four times a week. We sent something from Australia to Miami five weeks back and it still has not arrived. Similarly we are waiting for a package to come from Miami and it?s been sitting there at a USPS facility for three weeks. Australia to the UK is just as bad. Currently there is no airmail between Australia and Canada with everything going by sea. It is not possible for anything to go to Canada via the US. We track everything and it?s possible to see where things are. About four weeks back I bought some parts for the BN3 from AH Spares in the UK and it was sent by courier. I had them in five days. My advice. Be patient. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2020 8:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells. (cost with shipping $110) These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan. With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th. They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office. For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States. Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system. I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS). I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them. Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more. Not sure who is at fault here; me, Welch or the Royal Mail. Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From larry at patersondesign.ca Wed May 27 17:40:40 2020 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (larry at patersondesign.ca) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 19:40:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <4bcfde37-6230-5052-92c0-a9eae02c6783@earthlink.net> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <4bcfde37-6230-5052-92c0-a9eae02c6783@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1590622840.z6ch95wqo0kkowsw@email.xplornet.com> An expedited parcel from the US to me in Canada took three weeks to arrive Arry job On Wed, 27 May 2020 19:02:09 -0400, Bob Hakell wrote: I have a package shipped via Royal Mail/USPS sitting in customs in Chicago. USPS states that it can take up to 45 days to clear customs. 20 days so far. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/27/20 6:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and > after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to > buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping > $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects > sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage > back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought > them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery > date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason > they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for > the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days > before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative > offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is > having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the > UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is > at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if > you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal > Mail. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/larry at patersondesign.ca From larry at patersondesign.ca Wed May 27 17:41:12 2020 From: larry at patersondesign.ca (larry at patersondesign.ca) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 19:41:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <4bcfde37-6230-5052-92c0-a9eae02c6783@earthlink.net> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <4bcfde37-6230-5052-92c0-a9eae02c6783@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1590622872.jhuwp28asko0o8ko@email.xplornet.com> An expedited parcel from the US to me in Canada took three weeks to arrive Larry On Wed, 27 May 2020 19:02:09 -0400, Bob Hakell wrote: I have a package shipped via Royal Mail/USPS sitting in customs in Chicago. USPS states that it can take up to 45 days to clear customs. 20 days so far. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/27/20 6:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and > after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to > buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping > $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects > sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage > back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought > them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery > date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason > they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for > the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days > before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative > offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is > having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the > UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is > at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if > you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal > Mail. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/larry at patersondesign.ca From edriver at sasktel.net Wed May 27 18:31:51 2020 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 18:31:51 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <000001d6347d$f8f7bcf0$eae736d0$@cosmos.net.au> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d6347d$f8f7bcf0$eae736d0$@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <3b5b3a1f-8e16-e2a6-fc9f-64bf3b0902d3@sasktel.net> Hi Mike After reading your piece, I'm felt with the impression that you have not purchased a great need abroad in the past five or six years. Shipping to North America is slow even before COVID 19, the usual wait time for an item is three weeks whether it is an engine part or a tool. The number of layers of inspection outgoing and incoming can vary from two to six depending upon the mail service, the transport service and customs. Open your favourite scotch, add several ice cubes to the glass, put your feet up and relax. Cheers Ed On 27/05/2020 5:24 p.m., Larry Varley via Healeys wrote: > > Hi Mike, this is pretty much normal for international freight at the > moment weather for private or for business. You have to remember that > a lot of freight was going by passenger flights, so no flights, no > freight. Then there is the issue of social distancing in workplaces > which has slowed down customs clearances. The world as it is?. > > Cheers > > Larry Varley > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* 28 May 2020 08:09 > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant > > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type > and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally > decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with > shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual > suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid > oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the > cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no > scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? > For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a > week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat > there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I > purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been > hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid > them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though > they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here; me, > Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking > of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. > > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 27 18:56:54 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 00:56:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <3b5b3a1f-8e16-e2a6-fc9f-64bf3b0902d3@sasktel.net> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d6347d$f8f7bcf0$eae736d0$@cosmos.net.au> <3b5b3a1f-8e16-e2a6-fc9f-64bf3b0902d3@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <436273606.802899.1590627414871@mail.yahoo.com> I'm not stressing over this.? Plenty to do on the car not engine related.? I just sent a large roll of Hardura to Geoff Chrysler to use in an interior kit for my car.? I sent it FedEx yesterday.? I was told it would be there in Victoria, BC the 1st of next month.? This is a 30 pound roll of Hardura 5 feet 5 inches tall.? That is what makes me wonder what is happening with shipments from other countries.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 27, 2020, 5:34:03 PM PDT, E.A. Driver wrote: Hi Mike After reading your piece, I'm felt with the impression that you have not purchased a great need abroad in the past five or six years. Shipping to North America is slow even before COVID 19, the usual wait time for an item is three weeks whether it is an engine part or a tool. The number of layers of inspection outgoing and incoming can vary from two to six depending upon the mail service, the transport service and customs. Open your favourite scotch, add several ice cubes to the glass, put your feet up and relax. Cheers Ed On 27/05/2020 5:24 p.m., Larry Varley via Healeys wrote: #yiv8388985400 #yiv8388985400 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8388985400 #yiv8388985400 p.yiv8388985400MsoNormal, #yiv8388985400 li.yiv8388985400MsoNormal, #yiv8388985400 div.yiv8388985400MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv8388985400 a:link, #yiv8388985400 span.yiv8388985400MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8388985400 a:visited, #yiv8388985400 span.yiv8388985400MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8388985400 span.yiv8388985400EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv8388985400 .yiv8388985400MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv8388985400 div.yiv8388985400WordSection1 {}#yiv8388985400 Hi Mike, this is pretty much normal for international freight at the moment weather for private or for business. You have to remember that a lot of freight was going by passenger flights, so no flights, no freight. Then there is the issue of social distancing in workplaces which has slowed down customs clearances. The world as it is?. Cheers Larry Varley ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 28 May 2020 08:09 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant ? If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net | | This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com | _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed May 27 19:48:37 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 13:48:37 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d63492$1c2318a0$546949e0$@xtra.co.nz> Michael, I think these two images may be of help. Mark Ardmore NZ Note: The ball that links the carb actualting arm is incorreectly shown in this photo facing towards the engine. It should be facing out, so that link is directly in line with the the arm above. The bellcrank faces with its arms toward the engine ? long arm on the left ? short arm on top. The long return spring hooks through the cotter pin. The drag link appears not to be connected in this photo - hence the odd angle. It should be parallel to the chassis box section. From: Michael Oritt Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2020 4:49 a.m. To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back together. Specifically, I need to know how the bell crank mounts: 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the bellcrank is mounted on the post? 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing inboard (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the post? Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? TIA....Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66823 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63418 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed May 27 21:37:59 2020 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 03:37:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <436273606.802899.1590627414871@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d6347d$f8f7bcf0$eae736d0$@cosmos.net.au> <3b5b3a1f-8e16-e2a6-fc9f-64bf3b0902d3@sasktel.net> <436273606.802899.1590627414871@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2129509472.565670.1590637079911@mail.yahoo.com> I shipped seat frames and parts from California to Geoff in Victoria, B.C. Via Fedex Ground 2 weeks ago. It took 15days instead fo the originally quoted 7 days. The boxes went from California to New Mexico, Oklahoma, Illinois, Maryland, Illinois, Nebraska, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington State and finally British Columbia. Quite a trip! I am curious what states they will visit on the way back! Bert On Wednesday, May 27, 2020, 05:59:55 PM PDT, Michael MacLean wrote: I'm not stressing over this.? Plenty to do on the car not engine related.? I just sent a large roll of Hardura to Geoff Chrysler to use in an interior kit for my car.? I sent it FedEx yesterday.? I was told it would be there in Victoria, BC the 1st of next month.? This is a 30 pound roll of Hardura 5 feet 5 inches tall.? That is what makes me wonder what is happening with shipments from other countries.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 27, 2020, 5:34:03 PM PDT, E.A. Driver wrote: Hi Mike After reading your piece, I'm felt with the impression that you have not purchased a great need abroad in the past five or six years. Shipping to North America is slow even before COVID 19, the usual wait time for an item is three weeks whether it is an engine part or a tool. The number of layers of inspection outgoing and incoming can vary from two to six depending upon the mail service, the transport service and customs. Open your favourite scotch, add several ice cubes to the glass, put your feet up and relax. Cheers Ed On 27/05/2020 5:24 p.m., Larry Varley via Healeys wrote: #yiv6618226656 -- filtered {}#yiv6618226656 filtered {}#yiv6618226656 p.yiv6618226656MsoNormal, #yiv6618226656 li.yiv6618226656MsoNormal, #yiv6618226656 div.yiv6618226656MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6618226656 a:link, #yiv6618226656 span.yiv6618226656MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6618226656 a:visited, #yiv6618226656 span.yiv6618226656MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6618226656 span.yiv6618226656EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv6618226656 .yiv6618226656MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv6618226656 filtered {}#yiv6618226656 div.yiv6618226656WordSection1 {}#yiv6618226656 Hi Mike, this is pretty much normal for international freight at the moment weather for private or for business. You have to remember that a lot of freight was going by passenger flights, so no flights, no freight. Then there is the issue of social distancing in workplaces which has slowed down customs clearances. The world as it is?. Cheers Larry Varley ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 28 May 2020 08:09 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant ? If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net | | This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com | _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Wed May 27 22:16:25 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 21:16:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Post update Lithium Ion Battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This is the Antigravity Battery I used. It just barely fits in the 6volt Lucas case. So far so good. -Roland BH1 #724 On Wed, 27 May 2020 11:03:35 -0400, you wrote: >Some will recall that I came up with a solution to the problem of not being >able to get aesthetically correct 6 volt batteries for my concours 100. >I had heard that reproductions were now available but, after many tries, I >gave up trying to purchase them. >Well there have been developments and I have added the details AT THE BOTTOM >of the original post which you can view here. > -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed May 27 22:43:14 2020 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (greylinn at ozemail.com.au) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 14:43:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002601d634aa$80a1f270$81e5d750$@ozemail.com.au> It?s happening all over Mike. I posted a 100 distributor to the Netherlands on 23 March. It still hasn?t arrived. Another item I sent to the same guy on 12 May has arrived. I have 3 items posted the same day going to the USA that are still shown as in transit. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2020 8:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build. I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells. (cost with shipping $110) These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan. With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th. They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office. For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States. Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system. I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS). I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them. Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more. Not sure who is at fault here; me, Welch or the Royal Mail. Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 27 22:50:03 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 04:50:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 5 Way Fitting References: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647@mail.yahoo.com> I am getting to the point of installing brake lines on my BN2.? Going through parts I found the 5 way fitting that mounts in the lower right of the engine bay.? From what I can see from pictures on the internet, brake lines screw into 4 of the branches that should have seats in the bottom of the threads for a bubble flare in the tubing.? As you can see in the picture I orientated the 5 way to show you the horizontal branch that protrudes directly into the engine compartment has no seat at the bottom of the threads. It is just open to the inside of the switch.? The bottom branch with the switch is the same, no seat. ? I am guessing I have the wrong 5 way fitting.? The Lucas pressure switch in the picture is a new old stock switch that I would prefer to use in place of a modern repro.? It is just loosely threaded in place.? I know how these switches can seem to "weld" themselves in place after a time.? Of course Moss does not sell the 5 way fitting by itself.? You must spend the extra cash ($44 plus tax and shipping) to buy a 5 way fitting with a pressure switch already installed.? The switch is probably made in India/China.? Not desirable. Anyone have one of the correct 5 way fittings in a box or a drawer somewhere in your garage you might want to part with?? I know AH Spares sells them for $21, But after shipping the fitting alone will cost more than the Moss complete unit.? With the added bonus of waiting a month and a half to get it.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 5 way.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89266 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 27 22:53:18 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 04:53:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <002601d634aa$80a1f270$81e5d750$@ozemail.com.au> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634aa$80a1f270$81e5d750$@ozemail.com.au> Message-ID: <1388266078.882452.1590641598085@mail.yahoo.com> Geesh, I didn't know I hit such a sore spot.? Now I don't feel so bad.? At least mine says in transit in the system within the US finally.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 27, 2020, 9:43:26 PM PDT, wrote: #yiv0447417737 #yiv0447417737 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0447417737 #yiv0447417737 p.yiv0447417737MsoNormal, #yiv0447417737 li.yiv0447417737MsoNormal, #yiv0447417737 div.yiv0447417737MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0447417737 .yiv0447417737MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0447417737 div.yiv0447417737WordSection1 {}#yiv0447417737 It?s happening all over Mike. I posted a 100 distributor to the Netherlands on 23 March. It still hasn?t arrived. Another item I sent to the same guy on 12 May has arrived. I have 3 items posted the same day going to the USA that are still shown as in transit. ? Cheers ? Peter Linn Brisbane ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, 28 May 2020 8:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant ? If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 28 00:28:11 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 08:28:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01640c84-6c34-e7e4-e1ff-494a04664acd@chello.nl> These Covid-19 days mail (at least in Europe) is slow. Not enough air planes, parcels are kept in "quarantine", lack of staff and space , whatever. E.g. shipping a parcel from Holland to Ireland lasted nearly a month as did several other parcels although less extreme. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-5-2020 om 00:08 schreef Michael MacLean: > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type > and after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally > decided to buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with > shipping $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual > suspects sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid > oil drainage back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the > cheapest) I bought them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no > scheduled delivery date according to the United States Post Office.? > For some odd reason they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a > week before departing for the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat > there for several more days before entering the USPS system.? I > purposely avoided the alternative offered by DW (UPS).? I have been > hearing from several sources UPS is having problems and to avoid > them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the UPS charges, even though > they were substantially more.? Not sure who is at fault here;? me, > Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if you are thinking > of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal Mail. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Thu May 28 01:52:46 2020 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 08:52:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch, the Royal Mail and a mid week Rant In-Reply-To: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1402428355.738599.1590617336655.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1402428355.738599.1590617336655@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2bc65c23-8ccc-2a45-f289-9bd39b4bae58@summaventures.com> Michael, I really doubt that the issue is down to you, Welch or the Royal Mail. Speaking from this side of The Pond, I guess the reason(s) that your package sat on the tarmac are a mixture of Customs and the sheer lack of flights out of the UK (The RM's aircraft only operate within UK airspace, I understand). As you know airlines have grounded much of their fleets on economic and health grounds and even cargo flights are limited. Once it got to the US...well there's US customs and then the USPO, which is notorious even over here! :-) Under the present circumstance I doubt that you would have done better with UPS. Peter On 27/05/2020 23:08, Michael MacLean wrote: > If some of you remember I was on the list asking about original type and > after market type tappets for my BN2 engine build.? I finally decided to > buy the modified tappet that Denis Welch sells.? (cost with shipping > $110)? These are the same after market types that the usual suspects > sell, but Welch machines a flat groove on two sides to aid oil drainage > back to the pan.? With shipping by Royal Mail (the cheapest) I bought > them on May 5th.? They are still in transit with no scheduled delivery > date according to the United States Post Office.? For some odd reason > they sat at the airport in the UK for almost a week before departing for > the States.? Once here (Miami, FL) they sat there for several more days > before entering the USPS system.? I purposely avoided the alternative > offered by DW (UPS).? I have been hearing from several sources UPS is > having problems and to avoid them.? Maybe I should have sprung for the > UPS charges, even though they were substantially more.? Not sure who is > at fault here;? me, Welch or the Royal Mail. ? Just a note of caution if > you are thinking of buying anything from a UK supplier through the Royal > Mail. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From ah100register at gmail.com Thu May 28 03:32:04 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 10:32:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: <000001d63492$1c2318a0$546949e0$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000001d63492$1c2318a0$546949e0$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: All 100 enthusasts Please remember that many of subscribers to this interest group drive Right Hand Drive BN1/2. I say this because the 100 workshop manual shows this linkage on a RHD set up in a manner that cannot work Best regards On Thu, 28 May 2020 at 02:49, Mark Donaldson wrote: > Michael, > > > > I think these two images may be of help. > > > > Mark > > Ardmore > > NZ > > > > Note: The ball that links the carb actualting arm is incorreectly shown > in this photo facing *towards* the engine. > > It should be facing *out*, so that link is directly in line with the the > arm above. > > The bellcrank faces with its arms toward the engine ? long arm on the left > ? short arm on top. > > The long return spring hooks through the cotter pin. > > > > > > > > The drag link appears not to be connected in this photo - hence the odd > angle. It should be parallel to the chassis box section. > > > > > > > > > > *From:* Michael Oritt > *Sent:* Thursday, 28 May 2020 4:49 a.m. > *To:* Austin Healey > *Subject:* [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed > > > > In order to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to access to repair > the broken exhaust pipe for cylinders 1 and 4 I had to undo the throttle > linkage. Stupidly I did not diagram how everything was oriented prior to > disassembly and I am having difficulty getting the linkage back > together. Specifically, I need to know how the bell crank mounts: > > 1. Does its acute angle (less than 180 degrees) face up or down when the > bellcrank is mounted on the post? > 2. Is the spacer/bushing that is attached to the bellcrank facing inboard > (towards the block) or outboard when the unit is slipped over the post? > > Also, to what does the long throttle-return spring hook? > > TIA....Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66823 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 63418 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu May 28 04:25:52 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 06:25:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 5 Way Fitting In-Reply-To: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2035730556.137373.1590641403647@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think this is what you are looking for. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-100-BN1-3000-MKIII-BJ8-Brake-Union-5-Way-1B8926/303391648485?hash=item46a38d2ae5:g:yUkAAOSwyhVd6Rol M On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:50 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > I am getting to the point of installing brake lines on my BN2. Going > through parts I found the 5 way fitting that mounts in the lower right of > the engine bay. From what I can see from pictures on the internet, brake > lines screw into 4 of the branches that should have seats in the bottom of > the threads for a bubble flare in the tubing. As you can see in the > picture I orientated the 5 way to show you the horizontal branch that > protrudes directly into the engine compartment has no seat at the bottom of > the threads. It is just open to the inside of the switch. The bottom > branch with the switch is the same, no seat. I am guessing I have the > wrong 5 way fitting. The Lucas pressure switch in the picture is a new old > stock switch that I would prefer to use in place of a modern repro. It is > just loosely threaded in place. I know how these switches can seem to > "weld" themselves in place after a time. Of course Moss does not sell the > 5 way fitting by itself. You must spend the extra cash ($44 plus tax and > shipping) to buy a 5 way fitting with a pressure switch already installed. > The switch is probably made in India/China. Not desirable. Anyone have one > of the correct 5 way fittings in a box or a drawer somewhere in your garage > you might want to part with? I know AH Spares sells them for $21, But > after shipping the fitting alone will cost more than the Moss complete > unit. With the added bonus of waiting a month and a half to get it. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Thu May 28 05:40:22 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 12:40:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 5 Way Fitting In-Reply-To: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2035730556.137373.1590641403647.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2035730556.137373.1590641403647@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael I know of many owners who have fitted a recently made switch and have had problems. There must be an optimum setting that brings on the brake lights when one just touches the brakes to slow down. These suspect units bring on the brake lights when braking heavily but do not show when just slowing down and therefore do not give somebody driving behind the correct warning. Best regards On Thu, 28 May 2020 at 05:50, Michael MacLean wrote: > I am getting to the point of installing brake lines on my BN2. Going > through parts I found the 5 way fitting that mounts in the lower right of > the engine bay. From what I can see from pictures on the internet, brake > lines screw into 4 of the branches that should have seats in the bottom of > the threads for a bubble flare in the tubing. As you can see in the > picture I orientated the 5 way to show you the horizontal branch that > protrudes directly into the engine compartment has no seat at the bottom of > the threads. It is just open to the inside of the switch. The bottom > branch with the switch is the same, no seat. I am guessing I have the > wrong 5 way fitting. The Lucas pressure switch in the picture is a new old > stock switch that I would prefer to use in place of a modern repro. It is > just loosely threaded in place. I know how these switches can seem to > "weld" themselves in place after a time. Of course Moss does not sell the > 5 way fitting by itself. You must spend the extra cash ($44 plus tax and > shipping) to buy a 5 way fitting with a pressure switch already installed. > The switch is probably made in India/China. Not desirable. Anyone have one > of the correct 5 way fittings in a box or a drawer somewhere in your garage > you might want to part with? I know AH Spares sells them for $21, But > after shipping the fitting alone will cost more than the Moss complete > unit. With the added bonus of waiting a month and a half to get it. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Thu May 28 10:03:10 2020 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 12:03:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael ? here?s a photo of the linkage still attached to the manifold of my BN1. (I too have learned the hard way that you can never take too many photos!) Sarah Carr Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: manifold-linkage1 - 289.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 804817 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu May 28 12:36:04 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 14:36:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 throttle linkage--assembly help needed In-Reply-To: <20200528160544.194CDA14F8@autox.team.net> References: <20200528160544.194CDA14F8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Thanks all for the illustrations and photos--once I saw the position of the bellcrank it all became clear and I was able to reassemble the throttle linkage this morning without too much difficulty. I do, however, have another challenge: Before starting reassembly I decided to leave for last the copper drain pipes which mount to the underside of the intake manifolds. Now that I have everything bolted up I see that the long, inflexible drain pipes will make getting the nipples started into the holes will not be an easy job. That will be tomorrow's task.... Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:14 PM S.Carr wrote: > Michael ? here?s a photo of the linkage still attached to the manifold of > my BN1. (I too have learned the hard way that you can never take too many > photos!) > > > > Sarah Carr > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bgdrab at redzone.ca Thu May 28 17:50:19 2020 From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 23:50:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem Message-ID: About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made. I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3'wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation - running barely on about 3 cyclinders. There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly - again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following: put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out - there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly - held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car - the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. I checked the timing - it was right on. No matter what I did it didn't make an improvement. I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions? Brian Drab Vancouver B.C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Thu May 28 18:45:57 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 20:45:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00d901d63552$849620b0$8dc26210$@gmail.com> My first order of business would be to find the source of the gas dripping on the ground. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Drab Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running problem About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made. I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders. There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following: put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. I checked the timing ? it was right on. No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement. I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions? Brian Drab Vancouver B.C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bgdrab at redzone.ca Thu May 28 18:55:49 2020 From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 00:55:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem Message-ID: I guess I wasn't too clear on something in my first post I only smelled raw gas once and it only leaked fuel once. Since then I have searched for some source of fuel leakage but can't find any. I was thi8nking that it might be sucking air as well as gas through some hole in tank to pump lines, but when I checked the fuel delivery it ran clear with no air bubbles in the gas.. Brian Drab -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 28 19:00:24 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 18:00:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <87921be8-04e7-4b2b-d519-7c41934efc17@comcast.net> I had similar symptoms and an intermittent running poor condition on my BJ8. After a lot of sleuthing I discovered that one of the vacuum piston needles was loose and would drop into the jet hole, then get reattached and lifted out down the road.? Wouldn't explain your large puddle of gas, though. Bob On 5/28/2020 4:50 PM, Brian Drab wrote: > > About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great > since then with no adjustments required or made. > > I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. > > In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a > gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I > started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read > between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an > obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store > lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I > turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on > empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I > started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started > hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. > Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took > my trusty gas can, went over and filled it,? then came back and poured > it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really > rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and > went? inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a > pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the > car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded > like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders. > > There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. > > When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in > caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I > felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned > the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. > > Fast forward 3 months: > > Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip > today it and when I took it out,? it ran very poorly ? again like fuel > starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the > carbs frequently which I interpreted ?to be a very lean mixture > > I did the following: > > put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank > > Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of > sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats > which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters > at the in line. > > I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? > held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. > > I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into > the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom > of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. > > I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I > pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. > The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty? > quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I > do not have a fuel line filter. > > I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the > lean side. > > I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no > sign of carbon tracks. > > I ?have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. > > I checked the timing ? it was right on. > > No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement. > > I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. > > Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked? > the diaphrams and both were in good condition. > > Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one > offer any suggestions? > > Brian Drab > > Vancouver B.C. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Thu May 28 19:31:01 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 18:31:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: <87921be8-04e7-4b2b-d519-7c41934efc17@comcast.net> References: <87921be8-04e7-4b2b-d519-7c41934efc17@comcast.net> Message-ID: <542619CAC99A4D488321C6F1C634AE0E@AllInOne> Brian, Another possibility is gunk and debris was sucked up my the in-tank filter when you ran out of gas and it is fowled. There is a filter at the end of the pickup tube inside the tank. The fuel lines are different on a BJ8 than my Mk1 BT7 but a suggestion is to remove the line between the fuel pump and the tank and flush it out and pressure test. Then blow compressed air back into the tank through the fitting for the fuel line and flush the tank. Check all of the fuel line connections for signs of leakage and check the o-ring or gasket where the fuel lines connect to the pump. Good luck ... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem I had similar symptoms and an intermittent running poor condition on my BJ8. After a lot of sleuthing I discovered that one of the vacuum piston needles was loose and would drop into the jet hole, then get reattached and lifted out down the road. Wouldn't explain your large puddle of gas, though. Bob On 5/28/2020 4:50 PM, Brian Drab wrote: About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made. I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders. There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following: put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. I checked the timing ? it was right on. No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement. I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions? Brian Drab Vancouver B.C. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Fuel Lines.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1794447 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Fri May 29 00:18:57 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 02:18:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <051a01d63581$0a194590$1e4bd0b0$@gmail.com> Brian: Similar happened to me after rebuilding my carbs on my BJ8 as part of rebuilding and installing the engine. Engine was running perfectly so I began to take short engine break in trips, when 40 miles from home going to my doctor it started coughing so I limped into his parking lot. Had my visit and returned to the car and started the engine, but, it was difficult to keep it running. Turned of the engine opened the hood, got the engine running rough and thought must be the ball valve feed in one of the carbs. Then I looked down on the ground and saw fuel running out from under the engine, looked down and saw it running out of the overflow tubes on the front carb and shut down the engine. Called AAA and got towed home, best insurance you can buy. Next day I took off the lid on the front carb float bowl and found the ball valve fitting in the bowl. It must have unscrewed because the mechanic did not tighten it enough in the rebuild. I could have done that job in the parking lot of the doctors office, but, forgot to reinstall my pliers, screwdrivers etc. in the boot after taking the car off the jacks and test driving it. Aren?t old cars fun! Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys On Behalf Of Brian Drab Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running problem About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made. I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders. There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following: put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. I checked the timing ? it was right on. No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement. I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions? Brian Drab Vancouver B.C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 29 01:44:19 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 09:44:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5b930737-44a9-b938-e1ce-6216b9d07327@chello.nl> I notice you do not have a fuel filter installed. Fit one of the cheap transparent plastic filters (still the best) in a visible place in the fuel line to the carbs. Debris from the fuel tank may have stuck a float valve and blocked a jet or a gauze filter somewhere. Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-5-2020 om 01:50 schreef Brian Drab: > > About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great > since then with no adjustments required or made. > > I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. > > In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a > gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I > started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read > between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an > obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store > lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I > turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on > empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I > started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started > hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. > Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took > my trusty gas can, went over and filled it,? then came back and poured > it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really > rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and > went? inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a > pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the > car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded > like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders. > > There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before. > > When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in > caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I > felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned > the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. > > Fast forward 3 months: > > Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip > today it and when I took it out,? it ran very poorly ? again like fuel > starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the > carbs frequently which I interpreted ?to be a very lean mixture > > I did the following: > > put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tank > > Took the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of > sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats > which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters > at the in line. > > I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? > held upside down, they closed and opened right side up. > > I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into > the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom > of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. > > I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I > pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. > The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty? > quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I > do not have a fuel line filter. > > I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the > lean side. > > I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no > sign of carbon tracks. > > I ?have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there. > > I checked the timing ? it was right on. > > No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement. > > I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference. > > Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked? > the diaphrams and both were in good condition. > > Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one > offer any suggestions? > > Brian Drab > > Vancouver B.C. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Fri May 29 05:10:13 2020 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 07:10:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: <5b930737-44a9-b938-e1ce-6216b9d07327@chello.nl> References: <5b930737-44a9-b938-e1ce-6216b9d07327@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1287464588.105852287.1590750613244.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Could be the "in-tank" sock fuel filter clogged up---happened to me years ago----VERY hard to find and I had to have the tank cut open to get to it--- ----- Original Message ----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 29 May 2020 03:44:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem I notice you do not have a fuel filter installed. Fit one of the cheap transparent plastic filters (still the best) in a visible place in the fuel line to the carbs. Debris from the fuel tank may have stuck a float valve and blocked a jet or a gauze filter somewhere.Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-5-2020 om 01:50 schreef Brian Drab: About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made.I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders.There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before.When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube.Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following:put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tankTook the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed and opened right side up.I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there.I checked the timing ? it was right on. No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement.I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference.Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions?Brian DrabVancouver B.C. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Fri May 29 05:11:28 2020 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 07:11:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: <1287464588.105852287.1590750613244.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> References: <5b930737-44a9-b938-e1ce-6216b9d07327@chello.nl> <1287464588.105852287.1590750613244.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Message-ID: <1013335023.105853696.1590750688690.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> but then again, that wouldn't explain the fuel leak to the ground. ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Felts To: Kees Oudesluijs Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 29 May 2020 07:10:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}Could be the "in-tank" sock fuel filter clogged up---happened to me years ago----VERY hard to find and I had to have the tank cut open to get to it--- ----- Original Message ----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 29 May 2020 03:44:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem I notice you do not have a fuel filter installed. Fit one of the cheap transparent plastic filters (still the best) in a visible place in the fuel line to the carbs. Debris from the fuel tank may have stuck a float valve and blocked a jet or a gauze filter somewhere.Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-5-2020 om 01:50 schreef Brian Drab: About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 carbs and the car has run great since then with no adjustments required or made.I put the car away for the winter in about November last year. In probably mid January I decided to take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I was just across the street from a gas station so I took my trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began running really rough. I went another ? block into another store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 cyclinders.There was no more smell of raw gas nor any fuel leak as before.When I got home, I rapped the top of the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube.Fast forward 3 months: Last night I was getting it ready to take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture I did the following:put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in the tankTook the float bowls apart and cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at the in line. I checked the Gros float valves and they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed and opened right side up.I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I do not have a fuel line filter. I checked the plugs all seemed good and were in fact burning on the lean side. I pulled the distributor cap and it was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. I have electronic ignition so there is nothing I can check there.I checked the timing ? it was right on. No matter what I did it didn?t make an improvement.I replaced the Gros float valves but it made no difference.Today I pulled the carbs (which on a BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were in good condition. Now I am stumped. Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer any suggestions?Brian DrabVancouver B.C. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri May 29 05:51:15 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 07:51:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Running problem In-Reply-To: <1013335023.105853696.1590750688690.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> References: <5b930737-44a9-b938-e1ce-6216b9d07327@chello.nl> <1287464588.105852287.1590750613244.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> <1013335023.105853696.1590750688690.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Message-ID: I would first check Bob's suggestion. I've twice been caught out by needles falling out of carb pistons. Sometimes they slip back into place and stay there for a while. Very devious. M On Fri., May 29, 2020, 7:38 a.m. Tom Felts, wrote: > but then again, that wouldn't explain the fuel leak to the ground. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tom Felts > To: Kees Oudesluijs > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, 29 May 2020 07:10:13 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem > > Could be the "in-tank" sock fuel filter clogged up---happened to me years > ago----VERY hard to find and I had to have the tank cut open to get to it--- > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, 29 May 2020 03:44:19 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running problem > > I notice you do not have a fuel filter installed. Fit one of the > cheap transparent plastic filters (still the best) in a visible > place in the fuel line to the carbs. Debris from the fuel tank may > have stuck a float valve and blocked a jet or a gauze filter > somewhere. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 29-5-2020 om 01:50 schreef Brian > Drab: > > > > About 4 years ago I rebuilt my HD8 > carbs and the car has run great since then with no > adjustments required or made. > > I put the car away for the winter in > about November last year. > > In probably mid January I decided to > take the car out. It was a gorgeous day and I had to go to > the grocery store about a mile away. I started the car and > it ran fine. I noted that the gas gauge read between empty > and ? . I started of to the store, but I noticed an obvious > smell of raw gas when I was driving. When I got to the store > lot, I parked the car, did my shopping, and came back out. > When I turned the key, I now noticed that the gas gauge > moved up to dead on empty whi8ch on my car means you are > really out of gas!. When I started the car, I got about 100 > feet when the fuel pump started hammering. I got another > couple of feet and the car ran out of gas. Fortunately, I > was just across the street from a gas station so I took my > trusty gas can, went over and filled it, then came back and > poured it in the gas tank. The car started up fine but began > running really rough. I went another ? block into another > store, parked the car and went inside. When I came back out > about 15 minutes later there was a pool of gas, about > 2-3?wide, under the front of the car. I started the car and > it barely ran. I literally had to coax it home. It sounded > like severe fuel starvation ? running barely on about 3 > cyclinders. > > There was no more smell of raw gas > nor any fuel leak as before. > > When I got home, I rapped the top of > the float bowls on each carb in caser it was a stuck float > valve. and it seemed to run a lot better. I felt at that > time that a float valve had stuck and probably siphoned the > fuel out of one of float bowls through the overflow tube. > > Fast forward 3 months: > > Last night I was getting it ready to > take it on a bit of a road trip today it and when I took it > out, it ran very poorly ? again like fuel starvation but > not as bad as before. It also popped back through the carbs > frequently which I interpreted to be a very lean mixture > > I did the following: > > put another 3 or 4 gallons of gas in > the tank > > Took the float bowls apart and > cleaned them out ? there was a bit of sediment in them but > nothing worthwhile. I also checked the floats which were > both leak free. I also cleaned out the float bowl filters at > the in line. > > I checked the Gros float valves and > they seemed to work properly ? held upside down, they closed > and opened right side up. > > I disconnected the fuel line at the > fuel pump and blew air back into the tank thinking that when > it ran out of gas, sediment in the bottom of the tank may > have plugged the intake. It blew fine into the tank. > > I have 2 fuel pumps on the car ? the > regular SU and a facet pump. I pulled of the fuel line at > the float bowl and turned on the ignition. The SU pump and > the facet pump each filled a coke bottle pretty quickly. I > did not measure pressure. The gas looked clear and pure. I > do not have a fuel line filter. > > I checked the plugs all seemed good > and were in fact burning on the lean side. > > I pulled the distributor cap and it > was nice and clean inside with no sign of carbon tracks. > > I have electronic ignition so there > is nothing I can check there. > > I checked the timing ? it was right > on. > > No matter what I did it didn?t make > an improvement. > > I replaced the Gros float valves but > it made no difference. > > Today I pulled the carbs (which on a > BJ8 is no easy task) I checked the diaphrams and both were > in good condition. > > Now I am stumped. > Is it a fuel problem or something else? Can any one offer > any suggestions? > > Brian Drab > > Vancouver B.C. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 29 06:00:28 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 08:00:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brian With the info you provided there isn?t to many ?causes? that would fit those parameters. Fuel on the ground under the front of the car---very over rich situation at the carbs, likely a float needle stuck open. Not sure if the fuel spill happened when the ignition was on or off. When it does start, runs rough. You didn?t mention if it was belching black smoke out the tailpipes. Could be lean or rich but since you mentioned the spark plugs looked OK suspect lean condition --- Suspect clog at the float needle. It only takes a very small flake of rust or crud to block them or hold them open. The carbs really don?t care if a bit of air is being sucked through the fuel line as long as the carb bowl stays at the proper fuel level in the float chamber. Did you collect a sample of the fuel when you ran the pump with the fuel line disconnected? Wasn?t sure what ?ran clear? meant other than no bubbles. Was it a visual observation or inspected sample. I?m leaning towards a rusty fuel tank or accumulated crud in the fuel system. As others mentioned, a filter between the pump and carb will remove the offending substances before it gets to the one place that makes the engine act up, fuel wise. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Brian Drab Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem I guess I wasn?t too clear on something in my first post I only smelled raw gas once and it only leaked fuel once. Since then I have searched for some source of fuel leakage but can?t find any. I was thi8nking that it might be sucking air as well as gas through some hole in tank to pump lines, but when I checked the fuel delivery it ran clear with no air bubbles in the gas.. Brian Drab -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri May 29 07:34:51 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 13:34:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem In-Reply-To: <20200529120050.A6A42A0BBE@autox.team.net> References: <20200529120050.A6A42A0BBE@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <453432132.1670908.1590759291055@mail.yahoo.com> Two comments to your original post.The carb float bowl overflow pipe cannot "siphon" fuel out of the float bowl. It only drains excess fuel out when for example the float valve does not seat correctly.You cannot blow fuel/air backward thru an SU fuel pump. It's internal valves act as a check valve preventing reverse flow. I am not familiar with the operation of the aftermarket pump you also have installed. Is in in series or in parallel with the SU? Do you have an original gas tank? Has it been internally coated?Gary Hodson? -----Original Message----- From: Perry via Healeys To: Brian Drab ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Problem #yiv3340997581 #yiv3340997581 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3340997581 #yiv3340997581 p.yiv3340997581MsoNormal, #yiv3340997581 li.yiv3340997581MsoNormal, #yiv3340997581 div.yiv3340997581MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3340997581 a:link, #yiv3340997581 span.yiv3340997581MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3340997581 .yiv3340997581MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv3340997581 div.yiv3340997581WordSection1 {}#yiv3340997581 BrianWith the info you provided there isn?t to many ?causes? that would fit those parameters. Fuel on the ground under the front of the car---very over rich situation at the carbs, likely a float needle stuck open. Not sure if the fuel spill happened when the ignition was on or off.When it does start, runs rough. You didn?t mention if it was belching black smoke out the tailpipes.? Could be lean or rich but since you mentioned the spark plugs looked OK suspect lean condition ---Suspect clog at the float needle. It only takes a very small flake of rust or crud to block them or hold them open.The carbs really don?t care if a bit of air is being sucked through the fuel line as long as the carb bowl stays at the proper fuel level in the float chamber.Did you collect a sample of the fuel when you ran the pump with the fuel line disconnected? Wasn?t sure what ?ran clear? meant other than no bubbles. Was it a visual observation or inspected sample.I?m leaning towards a rusty fuel tank or accumulated crud in the fuel system. As others mentioned, a filter between the pump and carb will remove the offending substances before it gets to the one place that makes the engine act up, fuel wise.Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: Brian Drab Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:57 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem ?I guess I wasn?t too clear on something in my first post I only smelled raw gas once and it only leaked fuel once. Since then I have searched for some source of fuel leakage but can?t find any. I was thi8nking that it might be sucking air as well as gas through some hole in tank to pump lines, but when I checked the fuel delivery it ran clear with no air bubbles in the gas..Brian Drab ? ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue May 26 22:05:32 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 04:05:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw Message-ID: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads. Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying " Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom -----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing. There is a seam on the top and bottom. The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together. No access to the screw from the rear.Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com [2] ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option. If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there. A little paint and then who will know? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [7]http://www.team.net/donate.html [8] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [9]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [10] [11]http://autox.team.net/archive [12] Healeys at autox.team.net [13] [14]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [15] Unsubscribe/Manage: [16]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net [17] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [18]http://www.team.net/donate.html [19] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [20]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [21] [22]http://autox.team.net/archive [23] Healeys at autox.team.net [24] [25]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [26] Unsubscribe/Manage: [27]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com [28] Links: ------ [1] mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net [2] mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com [3] mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com [4] mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com [5] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net [6] mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com [7] http://www.team.net/donate.html [8] http://www.team.net/donate.html [9] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [10] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/archive [12] http://autox.team.net/archive [13] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net [14] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [15] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [16] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net [17] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net [18] http://www.team.net/donate.html [19] http://www.team.net/donate.html [20] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [21] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [22] http://autox.team.net/archive [23] http://autox.team.net/archive [24] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net [25] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [26] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [27] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com [28] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: finished horns.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 256062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 26 23:21:42 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 May 2020 05:21:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> Message-ID: <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.? Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".? Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.? It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.? It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.? First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.? Second picture shows success.? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.? Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying "?Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear.Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_221325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1710189 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_213010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1532832 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri May 29 11:21:57 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 17:21:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail>, <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Probably simpler than you thought. Beats trying to get to it with a MIG welder. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 5:21 AM To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: 'Larry Wendland' ; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads. Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16". Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit. It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through. It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place. First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center. Second picture shows success. [cid:d785fc11-e90b-4427-8325-cae03454e418] [cid:debd916c-5fc5-4e66-83bf-184f8addc271] Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads. Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying " Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing. There is a seam on the top and bottom. The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together. No access to the screw from the rear. Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean > To: healeyrik at gmail.com >; richard mayor > Cc: healeys > Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option. If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there. A little paint and then who will know? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick > wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_221325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1710189 bytes Desc: 20200526_221325.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_213010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1532832 bytes Desc: 20200526_213010.jpg URL: From bgdrab at redzone.ca Fri May 29 12:02:34 2020 From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 18:02:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list Message-ID: First I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. This list continues to amaze me and I am thankful to be a member. Unfortunately I have tried all suggestions that were mentioned. Just for clarification, I detached the fuel line from the pumps and blew it back into the tank. I did not blow trough the pumps. Next time I'll remember to remove the gas cap though. It sounded like I could have blown up the gas tank (I didn't). I had checked the needles on the vacuum pistons and they were solid in them. The only thing I have not done yet is to blow out the passages between float ball and the carb body. The quantity of fuel coming out of the line at the carbs when the ignition was turned on was quite significant. There was no air nor was there any debris in the fuel . I have repaired cars that had identical running problems and in my mind it was a fuel starvation or delivery problem. I just hope I haven't been mislead and focussing on a fuel issue when it could be a bad coil or electronic ignition issue. I will be putting everything back together and moving to the ignition side next. There has to be a solution, all I have to do is find it! Thanks all. Brian Drab -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rct2bnc at aol.com Fri May 29 14:00:13 2020 From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 20:00:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1995938172.1261341.1590782413371@mail.yahoo.com> Brian, I had a similar "starvation" problem with a Bugeye and my 100 BN1, when the vent in the gas cap was clogged. The car would run fine for about 8-10 min then die. Wait a bit and it was fine for another few miles. When I removed the gas cap, I could hear air rush into the tank, as I had pulled a slight vacuum...? Ben Cohen BN1, BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Brian Drab To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 11:02 am Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list First I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. This list continues to amaze me and I am thankful to be a member. Unfortunately I have tried all suggestions that were mentioned. Just for clarification, I detached the fuel line from the pumps and blew it back into the tank. I did not blow trough the pumps. ?Next time I?ll remember to remove the gas cap though. It sounded like I could have blown up the gas tank (I didn?t). ?I had checked the needles on the vacuum pistons and they were solid in them. The only thing I have not done yet is to blow out the passages between float ball and the carb body. The quantity of fuel coming out of the line at the carbs when the ignition was turned on was quite significant. There was no air nor was there any debris in the fuel . I have repaired cars that had identical running problems and in my mind it was a fuel starvation ?or delivery problem. I ?just hope I haven?t been mislead and focussing on a fuel issue when it could be a bad coil or electronic ignition issue. I will be putting everything back together and moving to the ignition side next. There has to be a solution, all I have to do is find it! Thanks all. Brian Drab ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rct2bnc at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 29 16:59:38 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 18:59:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner trip back to the garage. I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go. Screw slipped right through the threads. Checked the holes and they appear to be ? -26. A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit. Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as ?HZS0405?. Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: 'Larry Wendland'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.? Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".? Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.? It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.? It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.? First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.? Second picture shows success.? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.? Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying "?Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear. Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_221325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1710189 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_213010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1532832 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 29 16:59:38 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 18:59:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner trip back to the garage. I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go. Screw slipped right through the threads. Checked the holes and they appear to be ? -26. A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit. Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as ?HZS0405?. Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: 'Larry Wendland'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.? Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".? Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.? It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.? It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.? First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.? Second picture shows success.? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.? Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying "?Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear. Mike On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_221325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1710189 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200526_213010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1532832 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri May 29 17:05:36 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 09:05:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005401d6360d$ab0255a0$010700e0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Brian Some years back the BN3 started to run poorly, not inconsistent to the symptoms you have described. After much trial and error I was getting nowhere. It then occurred to me to go back to how it was when the car left the DHMC, and I removed the inline fuel filter. It ran perfectly! I had swapped the filter during the trial and error. Conclusion! The engine was starving for fuel due to the original pump not being able to push it through or the filter(s) were restricting the fuel. Also the Healey Duncan is exactly how it left the DHMC. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Drab Sent: Saturday, 30 May 2020 4:03 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list First I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. This list continues to amaze me and I am thankful to be a member. Unfortunately I have tried all suggestions that were mentioned. Just for clarification, I detached the fuel line from the pumps and blew it back into the tank. I did not blow trough the pumps. Next time I'll remember to remove the gas cap though. It sounded like I could have blown up the gas tank (I didn't). I had checked the needles on the vacuum pistons and they were solid in them. The only thing I have not done yet is to blow out the passages between float ball and the carb body. The quantity of fuel coming out of the line at the carbs when the ignition was turned on was quite significant. There was no air nor was there any debris in the fuel . I have repaired cars that had identical running problems and in my mind it was a fuel starvation or delivery problem. I just hope I haven't been mislead and focussing on a fuel issue when it could be a bad coil or electronic ignition issue. I will be putting everything back together and moving to the ignition side next. There has to be a solution, all I have to do is find it! Thanks all. Brian Drab -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri May 29 19:06:40 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 21:06:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <20200529230505.6E9C9A2DC8@autox.team.net> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> <20200529230505.6E9C9A2DC8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <48d1069a-9488-cc2c-193c-81160405e544@earthlink.net> 1/4" diameter, 5/8" long Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 5/29/20 6:59 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after > dinner trip back to the garage.? I have an old section of a 100 frame > upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go. > Screw slipped right through the threads.? Checked the holes and they > appear to be ?? -26.? A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed > a reasonable fit.? Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. > Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. > The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as ?HZS0405?. > > Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat May 30 02:10:19 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 09:10:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list In-Reply-To: <005401d6360d$ab0255a0$010700e0$@tpg.com.au> References: <005401d6360d$ab0255a0$010700e0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <000001d63659$c48ca830$4da5f890$@alexarevel.plus.com> Regarding Patrick's point on filters, I took one of those glass bowl filters from a scrapped Jag, cleaned it up, stuck in a new element and put it in my 3000. It didn't like it. It inhibited the flow so, say, whilst booting the car up a steep hill it would stutter and virtually stop. I couldn't believe it at first, new element and all, but the car ran fine after I removed it. (Never did really work that one out...the Jag probably had a very similar SU so why was it fitted there?) Another time, I had running problems, similar to the ones which Brian describes, which fooled me for quite a while. The car was up on a ramp for it's annual MOT when I noticed that I'd managed to nearly squash my fuel line flat. The carbs could fill up at low revs so the car could perform for a little while, but then demand would outstrip supply... (But no puddle of fuel.) (MOT...annual, legally required test of car's roadworthiness. Recently dropped for cars over a certain age. So, no more MOT for the 3000. Strange for a Government to cut back on rules and regulations. And I quite liked have a second opinion.) Another general point..I've just been replacing fuel pump points. I took the pump body apart, just to check, and there was zero crud in there. Likewise, last time I checked, none in the carbs. I put that down to having an aluminium tank. Of course, there may be a massive build up of crap in the tank's filter which will defeat me when I get too complacent.. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: 30 May 2020 00:06 To: 'Brian Drab' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list Hello Brian Some years back the BN3 started to run poorly, not inconsistent to the symptoms you have described. After much trial and error I was getting nowhere. It then occurred to me to go back to how it was when the car left the DHMC, and I removed the inline fuel filter. It ran perfectly! I had swapped the filter during the trial and error. Conclusion! The engine was starving for fuel due to the original pump not being able to push it through or the filter(s) were restricting the fuel. Also the Healey Duncan is exactly how it left the DHMC. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Drab Sent: Saturday, 30 May 2020 4:03 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem and assistance from the list First I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. This list continues to amaze me and I am thankful to be a member. Unfortunately I have tried all suggestions that were mentioned. Just for clarification, I detached the fuel line from the pumps and blew it back into the tank. I did not blow trough the pumps. Next time I'll remember to remove the gas cap though. It sounded like I could have blown up the gas tank (I didn't). I had checked the needles on the vacuum pistons and they were solid in them. The only thing I have not done yet is to blow out the passages between float ball and the carb body. The quantity of fuel coming out of the line at the carbs when the ignition was turned on was quite significant. There was no air nor was there any debris in the fuel . I have repaired cars that had identical running problems and in my mind it was a fuel starvation or delivery problem. I just hope I haven't been mislead and focussing on a fuel issue when it could be a bad coil or electronic ignition issue. I will be putting everything back together and moving to the ignition side next. There has to be a solution, all I have to do is find it! Thanks all. Brian Drab Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 30 22:13:41 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 04:13:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sealants References: <1966438144.349587.1590898421106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1966438144.349587.1590898421106@mail.yahoo.com> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.? Woohoo.? Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.? Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?? What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?? How about the angle drive?? Seal that or just crank it down OK?? Once this engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again for leaks.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200530_203331.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4870713 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun May 31 01:09:27 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 19:09:27 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants In-Reply-To: <1966438144.349587.1590898421106@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1966438144.349587.1590898421106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1966438144.349587.1590898421106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6371a$6dc4f4f0$494eded0$@xtra.co.nz> Mike, I would suggest cleaning the paint off the gasket-mating surface and simply apply a stock gasket. Nothing fancy. Nothing has leaked on my BN2, and I?ve owned it since 1978. Ditto for the angle-drive. In my many years of experience, I have mainly found that the designers got it right first time. Mark Donaldson Ardmore NZ From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, 31 May 2020 4:14 p.m. To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Sealants Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month. Woohoo. Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine. Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine? What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it? How about the angle drive? Seal that or just crank it down OK? Once this engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again for leaks. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4870713 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.png Type: image/png Size: 35989 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 31 07:12:16 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 14:12:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump points Message-ID: <000001d6374d$1ce22340$56a669c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> About a week ago I posted a query which was to the effect, "How long might one expect a set of (proper Burlen) points for an SU pump to last?" "How long is a piece of string?", I hear you say. So, the reason for the original query was this:- Not withstanding that they were not Taiwanese and that I reckon they were correctly installed, I think that they wore out rather quickly despite both sets being protected by Burlen supplied diodes. Replacing the points seemed, at first glance, to be harder than I remembered from previous times..I could get both sets running on the bench. With four plus one extra holes after "throw-over(?)". But, once in the car, one pump would only work for a while..totally haphazard. Eventually I turned to the wiring and terminals at the "on, off, on" switch.:- On..left hand half Off..neither half On..right hand half The RHS terminals were intermittent. Ie losing continuity hence cutting off power to the RHS. QUESTION:- OK, assuming you're still reading, could the problems within the switch translate to sparking and issues within the pumps' points? And thus cause them to wear out so quickly? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 31 07:48:01 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 15:48:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump points In-Reply-To: <000001d6374d$1ce22340$56a669c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6374d$1ce22340$56a669c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <3cebf078-bc0e-1b91-7767-ab3115cbd49c@chello.nl> Better not use the diodes. Use the old fashioned capacitors or 18V transils (or both) these are fitted over the points. Sometimes SU pumps will not work after being rebuild. This is often due to incorrect setting of the points of diaphragm, try slightly reducing the given 0,9mm setting between spring blade and top of the Bakelite bridge. The lower points are set to 2,3mm. Sometimes it is caused by a stiff membrane. The original membrane consists of three layers, two reinforced rubber and one Mylar between the petrol and one of the rubber membranes. These membrane may stick together after many years and thus rendering the membrane rather stiff. Prise the membranes apart very carefully, if the Mylar membrane splits the membrane is finished. Clean thoroughly between the layers with brake cleaner, let dry completely and apply a dusting of talcum powder sparingly. This will make the diaphragm nice and supple again. Kees Oudesluijs Op 31-5-2020 om 15:12 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > > About a week ago I posted a query which was to the effect, ?How long > might one expect a set of (proper Burlen) points for an SU pump to last?? > > ?How long is a piece of string??, I hear you say. > > So, the reason for the original query was this:- ?Not withstanding > that they were not Taiwanese and that I reckon they were correctly > installed, I think that they wore out rather quickly despite both sets > being protected by Burlen supplied diodes. > > Replacing the points seemed, at first glance, to be harder than I > remembered from previous times??I could get both sets running on the > bench. With four plus one extra holes after ?throw-over(?)?. But, once > in the car, one pump would only work for a while?.totally haphazard. > > Eventually I turned to the wiring and terminals at the ?on, off, on? > switch.:- > > On?.left hand half > > Off?.neither half > > On?.right hand half > > The RHS terminals were intermittent. Ie losing continuity hence > cutting off power to the RHS. > > QUESTION:- OK, assuming you?re still reading, could the problems > within the switch translate to sparking and issues within the pumps? > points? And thus cause them to wear out so quickly? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rubino at truespeed.ca Sun May 31 07:55:10 2020 From: rubino at truespeed.ca (Carl Rubino) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 09:55:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problems Message-ID: <8BFC52DA308648FBA5F9B00809660529@p6520f> Shortly after out of storage (Canada-Eh!) my clutch peddle was very soft then couldn?t shift gears. Checked and the reservoir was almost empty. Filled it and with several pumps I can change gears but it gets soft quickly. Going at on Wed-any ideas? carl BN-4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun May 31 08:31:30 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 10:31:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problems In-Reply-To: <8BFC52DA308648FBA5F9B00809660529@p6520f> References: <8BFC52DA308648FBA5F9B00809660529@p6520f> Message-ID: Hi Carl, you need to check to see if the level has gone down again, it most likely has. If so my guess would be that the slave or possibly the master cylinder is leaking. Easily rebuilt with a kit DO NOT HONE THE CYLINDER(S). If you are doing one I would recommend doing both and if the hose is an old one replace it at the same time. M On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 9:55 AM Carl Rubino wrote: > Shortly after out of storage (Canada-Eh!) my clutch peddle was very soft > then couldn?t shift gears. Checked and the reservoir was almost empty. > Filled it and with several pumps I can change gears but it gets soft > quickly. Going at on Wed-any ideas? > > carl > BN-4 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sun May 31 09:15:21 2020 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 10:15:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problems In-Reply-To: References: <8BFC52DA308648FBA5F9B00809660529@p6520f> Message-ID: Addition to what Michael replied, check to see if the clutch slave hose isn't leaking before you pull the slave cyl. Neil Anderson On Sun, May 31, 2020, 9:40 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Carl, you need to check to see if the level has gone down again, it > most likely has. > If so my guess would be that the slave or possibly the master cylinder is > leaking. > Easily rebuilt with a kit DO NOT HONE THE CYLINDER(S). > If you are doing one I would recommend doing both and if the hose is an > old one replace it at the same time. > M > > > On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 9:55 AM Carl Rubino wrote: > >> Shortly after out of storage (Canada-Eh!) my clutch peddle was very soft >> then couldn?t shift gears. Checked and the reservoir was almost empty. >> Filled it and with several pumps I can change gears but it gets soft >> quickly. Going at on Wed-any ideas? >> >> carl >> BN-4 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun May 31 09:51:22 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 15:51:22 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants Message-ID: <4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com> When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around the holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also, make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few around to get them to go in the correct amount.? ???I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Best of luck!? Steven Kingsbury BN1 on the way to recovery. On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.? Woohoo.? Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.? Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?? What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?? How about the angle drive?? Seal that or just crank it down OK?? Once this engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again for leaks. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 10:48:56 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 09:48:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump points In-Reply-To: <000001d6374d$1ce22340$56a669c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6374d$1ce22340$56a669c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <766cbea5-9e75-6e45-6f07-5a5d95618062@comcast.net> re: "QUESTION:- OK, assuming you?re still reading, could the problems within the switch translate to sparking and issues within the pumps? points? And thus cause them to wear out so quickly?" Given that the pumps are designed to operate intermittently, I'd say no.? Getting decent points seems to be a crapshoot these days; did your points wear, or become pitted? I suspect, but can't prove, that contemporary points use less tungsten--an expensive metal that, I think, is a bit difficult to work--than older ones; perhaps just a 'veneer' on a cheaper metal. Bob On 5/31/2020 6:12 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > About a week ago I posted a query which was to the effect, ?How long > might one expect a set of (proper Burlen) points for an SU pump to last?? > > ?How long is a piece of string??, I hear you say. > > So, the reason for the original query was this:- ?Not withstanding > that they were not Taiwanese and that I reckon they were correctly > installed, I think that they wore out rather quickly despite both sets > being protected by Burlen supplied diodes. > > Replacing the points seemed, at first glance, to be harder than I > remembered from previous times??I could get both sets running on the > bench. With four plus one extra holes after ?throw-over(?)?. But, once > in the car, one pump would only work for a while?.totally haphazard. > > Eventually I turned to the wiring and terminals at the ?on, off, on? > switch.:- > > On?.left hand half > > Off?.neither half > > On?.right hand half > > The RHS terminals were intermittent. Ie losing continuity hence > cutting off power to the RHS. > > QUESTION:- OK, assuming you?re still reading, could the problems > within the switch translate to sparking and issues within the pumps? > points? And thus cause them to wear out so quickly? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 31 11:17:12 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 10:17:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants In-Reply-To: <4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com> References: <4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com> Message-ID: <157f89da-96fb-1c04-f0c3-365d63b98a1b@comcast.net> Right up there with 'which oil to use.' I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful with Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with no gasket on my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried to remove it I hurt my right elbow sawing the pan off with a serrated kitchen knife (that was a couple years ago, and the elbow is still sore). When I told my mechanic about this, he said: "Well, you weren't supposed to remove the pan," but, shit happens. There are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly the grey is for import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are photos and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance, SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove the manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold (the RS held). Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around sealant. It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it easy(er) to remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on my gearbox/OD rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the critical OD body to tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is not supposed to have a gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting the depth of the annulus gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone 'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so far, no leaks. I just used the same stuff on the thermostat housing and water pump on my '55 T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work well. Note if the label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and holding a gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird's manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many manuals say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if at all; I use 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the cover, then run a thin bead of blue on the engine side. Side note: the advantage of the F-a-G is that it's tacky, and isn't likely to have chunks break off and plug important--read: oil--passageways. There was a guy on the web who went into a detailed analysis of this risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously, and sparingly, it's OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8, but haven't been adventurous enough to try it. Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless, of course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them in this lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G; in my experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than the covers (as long as they're straight), but copper washers with silicone works reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that has a rubber insert--can't recall the name right now--that should work well (if you can find them). * I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do THAT again." If only that was true. Bob On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" > and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go > around the holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the > threads. Also, make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are > different depths in the receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but > then I had to move a few around to get them to go in the correct amount. > ???I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will > be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the > information. Best of luck! > Steven Kingsbury > BN1 on the way to recovery. > > On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire >> month.? Woohoo.? Now comes the part where I button up this side of >> the engine.? Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?? >> What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?? How >> about the angle drive?? Seal that or just crank it down OK? Once this >> engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again >> for leaks. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >> >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun May 31 12:25:01 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:25:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners Message-ID: <6844fa3803c8e5924f39a6e732fcf96f69e3fd3b@webmail> Soon after I owned a Healey 100, I equipped my tool box with three kinds of wrenches: normal SAE, Metric and BS/Whitworth. This combination will handle any size nut or bolt on the car (oops, I also needed a set of BA wrenches for the small stuff). So, with all this talk of what fastener-British or American (Unified)?...I went to the Austin Service Journal Volume 25 and have included this info which may help you in fitting nuts and bolts to your 100. If you use the Austin Parts List manual (#1050) you will note that the BSF nuts and bolts and studs all have a part number starting with 2K...for instance front engine support bolts 2K5946 and nuts 2K3977. These are BSF fasteners. When the agreed change was made to unified (about Sept.1954 they started using them, after first using up all they had of British items), the part numbers became something like HBZ0512. These are Unified Fasteners. I copied about 5 pages from this volume-attached FYI- but you can find this whole volume 25 published on the internet. You will note that the letters describe the size, length, thread pitch and type of material its made of so you can replace the parts with the exact same item. If you thread a nut onto the bolt, and it only goes on about three threads, you probably have mixed UNF with BSF. Better check the charts and parts book!Hank, healeyhelper.com -----------------------------------------From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Sunday May 31 2020 8:54:04AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around the holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also, make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few around to get them to go in the correct amount. I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Best of luck! Steven KingsburyBN1 on the way to recovery. On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month. Woohoo. Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine. Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine? What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it? How about the angle drive? Seal that or just crank it down OK? Once this engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again for leaks.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1]_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2] [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] [7]http://autox.team.net/archive [8] Healeys at autox.team.net [9] [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] Unsubscribe/Manage: [12]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com [13] Links: ------ [1] https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature [2] http://Team.Net [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com [13] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni1.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 357535 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni2.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 327138 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni3.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 450994 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni4.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 331900 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni5.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 314304 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun May 31 12:48:39 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:48:39 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners Message-ID: <8fc31fc1-f1be-44d8-af44-33756a9d3d6c@me.com> I also have three kinds of wrenches and many times discover I need something I don't have. I've actually had to replace all my tools and other stuff because of the fire I went through, but that's another story. As to the bolts going in through the tappet cover, there are no nuts on those and they go right into the block. I thought I had them all measured out, and the bolts laid out correctly for re-install, but I still ran into problems but eventually got them all back in and flush.? ???The reason I am using "The Right Stuff" is from two mechanics recommending it. And I am laying down a bead about the size of a BB so hopefully if I ever have to remove the tappet cover, I'll have a reasonable chance of completing the task. I would not use "The RS" on my oil pan, nor would I use it on a rocker cover. Gaskets there with heat capable silicone on one side and oil on the other works for me. ???Thanks for the list of fasteners. That just might come in handy. Appreciate it. ???I thought I was just going to be able to hone my cylinders, put the new rings back on the pistons and move on, but alas, after some measuring and calculations from someone who actually knows what they are doing, it was discovered my engine was actually producing over 11 to 1 compression! Now if I could get 100 plus octane anywhere I go, I might be happy with that. But with the fact that this engine would run on when shut off, and not wanting to constantly add octane booster with each tank of gas, I decided to get new pistons and bring the compression down to a reasonable amount.? ???I'm learning as I go, making some mistakes here and there, learning constantly, but figuring I can do this. I've got the time and the curiosity, mix that with some basic knowledge, I'm moving forward. Stay tuned as the engine will be out soon and off to the machine shop to get bored and honed to spec. Then the re-assemble shall commence, followed by the installation back into my car, followed closely by the first attempt at actually starting it up again! Scary, but hey, why not?! Steven Kingsbury? On May 31, 2020 at 11:25 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Soon after I owned a Healey 100, I equipped my tool box with three kinds of wrenches: normal SAE, Metric and BS/Whitworth.? This combination will handle any size nut or bolt on the car (oops, I also needed a set of BA wrenches for the small stuff). So, with all this talk of what fastener-British or American (Unified)?...I went to the Austin Service Journal Volume 25 and have included this info which may help you in fitting nuts and bolts to your 100. If you use the Austin Parts List manual (#1050) you will note that the BSF nuts and bolts and studs all have a part number starting with 2K...for instance front engine support bolts 2K5946 and nuts 2K3977. These are BSF fasteners. When the agreed change was made to unified (about Sept.1954 they started using them, after first using up all they had of British items), the part numbers became something like HBZ0512.? These are Unified Fasteners.? I copied about 5 pages from this volume-attached FYI- but you can find this whole volume 25 published on the internet. You will note that the letters describe the size, length, thread pitch and type of material its made of so you can replace the parts with the exact same item. If you? thread a nut onto the bolt, and it only goes on about three threads, you probably have mixed UNF with BSF. Better check the charts and parts book! Hank, healeyhelper.com ----------------------------------------- From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Sunday May 31 2020 8:54:04AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around the holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also, make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few around to get them to go in the correct amount.? ???I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Best of luck!? Steven Kingsbury BN1 on the way to recovery. On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.? Woohoo.? Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.? Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?? What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?? How about the angle drive?? Seal that or just crank it down OK?? Once this engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again for leaks. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 31 13:21:43 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 19:21:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners In-Reply-To: <8fc31fc1-f1be-44d8-af44-33756a9d3d6c@me.com> References: <8fc31fc1-f1be-44d8-af44-33756a9d3d6c@me.com> Message-ID: <857488572.515198.1590952903318@mail.yahoo.com> Wow!? There are as many answers to this question of sealing up the tappet cover as there are list members.? It runs the gamut of using nothing but a bare gasket to Hylomar to a silicone adhesive to glue it down.? I might as well have asked what oil to use in the engine too. ? Still undecided.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun May 31 14:08:16 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 13:08:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners In-Reply-To: <857488572.515198.1590952903318@mail.yahoo.com> References: <8fc31fc1-f1be-44d8-af44-33756a9d3d6c@me.com> <857488572.515198.1590952903318@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gentlemen, Here are two draft articles on British and Austin Healey Fasteners that I will be putting on my blog site later this Summer after I retire. Not yet complete, but a good start. The article on strength rating codes took me 20 years to research! Cheers' Curt On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 12:22 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Wow! There are as many answers to this question of sealing up the tappet > cover as there are list members. It runs the gamut of using nothing but a > bare gasket to Hylomar to a silicone adhesive to glue it down. I might as > well have asked what oil to use in the engine too. Still undecided. > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: British Fasteners on Austin Healeys 1953.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1560720 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: British Bolt Strength Ratings Decoded.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 879711 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun May 31 14:26:48 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 13:26:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners In-Reply-To: References: <8fc31fc1-f1be-44d8-af44-33756a9d3d6c@me.com> <857488572.515198.1590952903318@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Regarding fastener markings, Whitworth versus Unified. Here's a page from my 1957 Machinery's Handbook. My go to thread gauges. Cheers, Curt On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 1:08 PM Curtis Arndt wrote: > Gentlemen, > > Here are two draft articles on British and Austin Healey Fasteners that I > will be putting on my blog site later this Summer after I retire. Not yet > complete, but a good start. The article on strength rating codes took me > 20 years to research! > > Cheers' > > Curt > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Machinerys Handbook British Unified Fastener Markings.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 32605 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Thread Pitch Gauges.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4233167 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 31 17:01:00 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 09:01:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] clutch problems In-Reply-To: References: <8BFC52DA308648FBA5F9B00809660529@p6520f> Message-ID: <007e01d6379f$5b00b8b0$11022a10$@tpg.com.au> Hello I would echo Mike?s advice not to hone the cylinders as that removes the hardened surface of the bore. In both the BN3 and the Healey saloon I had all the cylinders fitted with stainless steel sleeves. The BN3 has a BN1 brake master cylinder, a DHMC specially built hydraulic clutch system with wheel cylinders made from unobtainium, while the Saloon has hydraulic Lockheed brakes and mechanical clutch. Apart from rubbers going soft, which is probably the problem with your clutch, there has been no problems at all. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 1 June 2020 12:32 AM To: Carl Rubino Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch problems Hi Carl, you need to check to see if the level has gone down again, it most likely has. If so my guess would be that the slave or possibly the master cylinder is leaking. Easily rebuilt with a kit DO NOT HONE THE CYLINDER(S). If you are doing one I would recommend doing both and if the hose is an old one replace it at the same time. M On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 9:55 AM Carl Rubino wrote: Shortly after out of storage (Canada-Eh!) my clutch peddle was very soft then couldn?t shift gears. Checked and the reservoir was almost empty. Filled it and with several pumps I can change gears but it gets soft quickly. Going at on Wed-any ideas? carl BN-4 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun May 31 17:06:40 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 23:06:40 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners Message-ID: <07aa9142-9a03-4815-8431-8d7d950cdcf4@me.com> I know what you mean! But since I found Valvoline 20-50 with ZDDP, I'm set there. As for sealing things up? Well it's still up in the air for where I am in the day! S On May 31, 2020 at 12:21 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Wow!? There are as many answers to this question of sealing up the tappet cover as there are list members.? It runs the gamut of using nothing but a bare gasket to Hylomar to a silicone adhesive to glue it down.? I might as well have asked what oil to use in the engine too. ? Still undecided. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Sun May 31 19:31:43 2020 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 21:31:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7ECCADA1-C2CD-4D5B-9E34-76FAB7B66F12@mac.com> Outstanding contribution, Curt! Thank you for this magnificent research effort. Lin Rose Sent from my iPad > On May 31, 2020, at 5:28 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > > ? > Gentlemen, > > Here are two draft articles on British and Austin Healey Fasteners that I will be putting on my blog site later this Summer after I retire. Not yet complete, but a good start. The article on strength rating codes took me 20 years to research! > > Cheers' > > Curt > > > >> On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 12:22 PM Michael MacLean wrote: >> Wow! There are as many answers to this question of sealing up the tappet cover as there are list members. It runs the gamut of using nothing but a bare gasket to Hylomar to a silicone adhesive to glue it down. I might as well have asked what oil to use in the engine too. Still undecided. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >>>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: British Fasteners on Austin Healeys 1953.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1560720 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: British Bolt Strength Ratings Decoded.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 879711 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun May 31 23:52:59 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 05:52:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners In-Reply-To: <07aa9142-9a03-4815-8431-8d7d950cdcf4@me.com> References: <07aa9142-9a03-4815-8431-8d7d950cdcf4@me.com> Message-ID: A couple of items that may or may not be interesting or pertinent on this topic. Since I once found myself needing a valve cover gasket and not wanting to wait a week or more for delivery I started making my own using sheets of cork gasket material. I first take a sheet of the material large enough for the valve cover to fit on. I apply a bead of silicon gasket maker or Right Stuff to the sealing surface of the cover and place it on the gasket material trying not to move the cover too much while setting it down. I wait overnight for the sealant to set up completely and then cut away all of the excess gasket material with a razor knife. (You can remove any blobs of sealer at the same time to protect your oil pump and passages.) This leaves me with the gasket securely attached to the valve cover so they can be removed together to adjust valves. In using Right Stuff I've found it difficult to scrape off, but it comes off easily if you wipe it with lacquer thinner first. That probably won't work if the cover is glued in place. I've been having a lot of trouble with oil leaks from my engine and try as I would couldn't get the valve cover to seal. As I was installing the cover with gasket attached a few days ago I discovered that when I put the cover on to the head it came down with a clunk, but it would rock. It is the aftermarket alloy piece with the Austin Healey script engraved (somewhat sloppily) in the top. What I found was that the alloy casting steps down to accommodate the oil filler cap and the profile is reflected inside the cover so there was interference with the stud on the back rocker pedestal which did not allow the cover to fully seat on the head. I pulled the stud and cut off about a quarter inch and reinstalled it and now my leak (at least that one) is solved. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 11:06 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners I know what you mean! But since I found Valvoline 20-50 with ZDDP, I'm set there. As for sealing things up? Well it's still up in the air for where I am in the day! S On May 31, 2020 at 12:21 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Wow! There are as many answers to this question of sealing up the tappet cover as there are list members. It runs the gamut of using nothing but a bare gasket to Hylomar to a silicone adhesive to glue it down. I might as well have asked what oil to use in the engine too. Still undecided. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri May 29 18:29:55 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 20:29:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: <20200529230041.46571A1233@autox.team.net> References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> <20200529230041.46571A1233@autox.team.net> Message-ID: HZS0405 is a 1/4" UNF Hex head 5/8"" long l think. M On Fri., May 29, 2020, 7:19 p.m. Perry via Healeys, wrote: > Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner > trip back to the garage. I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and > ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go. Screw slipped right > through the threads. Checked the holes and they appear to be ? -26. A > test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit. Lots of > old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the > complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows > the bolts as ?HZS0405?. > > Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Michael MacLean > *Sent: *Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM > *To: *gradea1 at charter.net > *Cc: *'Larry Wendland' ; 'healeys at autox.team.net' > > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw > > > > Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads. Just > finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16". > Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit. It was a little > off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap > through. It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place. > First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center. > Second picture shows success. > > > > Mike MacLean > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > > On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net > > wrote: > > Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and > easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you > can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which > would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads. > Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also > use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" > BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are > most correct in saying " Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, > healeyhelper.coom > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Michael MacLean" > To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw > > This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing. There is a > seam on the top and bottom. The captive nuts are welded in place prior to > putting the two halves together. No access to the screw from the rear. > > Mike > > > > On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland < > bighealey3k at aim.com> wrote: > > > > > > Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so > you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it > is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on > the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of > the nut. > Larry Wendland > '67 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael MacLean > To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor < > boyracer466 at gmail.com> > Cc: healeys > Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw > > > As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it > out is my only option. If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it > will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert > in there. A little paint and then who will know? Nothing is easy on this > car. > Mike MacLean > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick > wrote: > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 29 18:41:55 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 20:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> <20200529230041.46571A1233@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Thanks Mr Salter. That verifies the data collected from the old rusty frame! ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 8:30 PM To: Perry Cc: Michael MacLean; Hank Leach; Larry Wendland; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw HZS0405 is a 1/4" UNF? Hex head 5/8"" long l think. M On Fri., May 29, 2020, 7:19 p.m. Perry via Healeys, wrote: Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner trip back to the garage.? I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go.? Screw slipped right through the threads.? Checked the holes and they appear to be ?? -26.? A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit.? Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as ?HZS0405?. Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: 'Larry Wendland'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw ? Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.? Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".? Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.? It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.? It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.? First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.? Second picture shows success.? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.? Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying "?Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear. Mike ? On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: ? ? Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 29 18:41:55 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 20:41:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw In-Reply-To: References: <0dbf84797feceeb0117182e57880c6381b65c0b2@webmail> <209490603.271788.1590556902631@mail.yahoo.com> <20200529230041.46571A1233@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Thanks Mr Salter. That verifies the data collected from the old rusty frame! ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 8:30 PM To: Perry Cc: Michael MacLean; Hank Leach; Larry Wendland; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw HZS0405 is a 1/4" UNF? Hex head 5/8"" long l think. M On Fri., May 29, 2020, 7:19 p.m. Perry via Healeys, wrote: Michael Your comment about finding 10-32 threads required an after dinner trip back to the garage.? I have an old section of a 100 frame upstairs and ran a 10 -32 screw in the 4 holes where the horns go.? Screw slipped right through the threads.? Checked the holes and they appear to be ?? -26.? A test with one of the screws I had on hand showed a reasonable fit.? Lots of old dried up grease and oil in those holes. Hear is where having the complete fastener list would help this old guy. The 100 Parts List shows the bolts as ?HZS0405?. Anyone have that fastener part number and corresponding size info handy? Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:39 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net Cc: 'Larry Wendland'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw ? Chased the threads of the other three holes and found 10-32 threads.? Just finished drilling consecutively larger holes in screw starting with 1/16".? Finally knocked the screw inside with the last drill bit.? It was a little off center, but left enough of the original hole and threads to run the tap through.? It's loose, but a little thread locker should keep it in place.? First picture was a good start with the 1/16" bit a little off center.? Second picture shows success.? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 9:05 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: Had the same issues when I restored #588...I was able to punch, drill and easy out the bolt after first heating the busted shank with a torch. If you can stay centered as much as possible and use the smallest drill which would take a 1/4" easy-out , you should be able to salvage the threads.? Once you get it moving rock in back and forth as you turn it out, I also use Lucas Tool Box Buddy-penetrent to help it move. Early 100s used 1/4" BFS (photo) but by the time your car was made, it is probably UNF. You are most correct in saying "?Nothing is easy on this car." Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.coom ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "healeyrik at gmail.com", "boyracer466 at gmail.com", "Larry Wendland" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday May 26 2020 6:17:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw This cross piece has captive nuts in a rectangular box tubing.? There is a seam on the top and bottom.? The captive nuts are welded in place prior to putting the two halves together.? No access to the screw from the rear. Mike ? On Tuesday, May 26, 2020, 6:10:11 PM PDT, Larry Wendland wrote: ? ? Mike are there any threads sticking out on the backside of the nut? If so you might be able to break the bolt remnant loose with a vise grip .If it is threaded full length, you could continue to turn it till it comes out on the back side of the nut. At worst screw it back out on the front side of the nut. Larry Wendland '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: healeyrik at gmail.com ; richard mayor Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, May 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Broken Screw As appealing as that sounds to shoot it out, with my resources drilling it out is my only option.? If I (if you'll pardon the pun) screw it up, it will have to have a larger hole cut out and the J&B Weld a blind nut insert in there.? A little paint and then who will know?? Nothing is easy on this car. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 2:59 PM, HealeyRick wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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