[Healeys] FW: Master Switch
Alex
alexmm at roadrunner.com
Thu Mar 26 09:40:57 MDT 2020
*A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7. I bought
it from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!*
*== Alex in Maine*
*1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC*
On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani wrote:
>
> A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do not
> work well. May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a Hella,
> or continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to the frame.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
> *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
> For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
> switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a
> little different.
>
> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on
> my own car, I discovered that it had failed because the ground
> cable running from the switch to the frame was not
> properly installed.
>
> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through
> the cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable
> current passes through THE SPRING to then ground through the body
> of the switch and the switch mounting bracket.
>
> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses
> tension ruining the switch.
>
> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the
> spring as suggested but often found that the brass of the spring
> had been totally annealed as a result of being overheated because
> of the current that had passed through them.
>
> For my own car (and several others since) I made a new spring
> from copper coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the
> car many years later.
>
> M
>
> On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
> <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>
> In my experience with the switches they overheat and the
> spring collapses.
>
> Good to know you have the rivets.
>
> John
>
> *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com
> <mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com>]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
> <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>; 'Healeys'
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
> The number one fault with both the original and the new switch
> is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the
> ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to
> restore your original battery switch.
>
> I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them
> work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the
> new spring and install new rivets.
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
> <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org>
>
> *From:*John Spaur
>
> *Sent:*Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>
> *To:*'Healeys'
>
> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
> I have tried to post this to the list several times but it
> keeps bouncing.
>
> The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not
> Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too
> long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt
> one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are
> not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because
> the metal case is slightly smaller.
>
> John
>
> ’62 BT7
>
> San Jose, CA
>
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>
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