[Healeys] Sealants

[Michael Salter]

* "I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
THAT again." If only that was true*."
Never happened to me ... 🤣🤣🤣

On Sun., May 31, 2020, 1:22 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Right up there with 'which oil to use.'
>
> I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful with
> Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with no gasket on
> my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried to remove it I hurt
> my right elbow sawing the pan off with a serrated kitchen knife (that was a
> couple years ago, and the elbow is still sore). When I told my mechanic
> about this, he said: "Well, you weren't supposed to remove the pan," but,
> shit happens. There are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly the
> grey is for import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are
> photos and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance,
> SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove the
> manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold (the RS held).
>
> Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around sealant.
> It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it easy(er) to
> remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on my gearbox/OD
> rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the critical OD body to
> tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is not supposed to have a
> gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting the depth of the annulus
> gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone 'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so
> far, no leaks. I just used the same stuff on the thermostat housing and
> water pump on my '55 T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work
> well. Note if the label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and
> holding a gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird's
> manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many manuals
> say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if at all; I use
> 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the cover, then run a thin
> bead of blue on the engine side. Side note: the advantage of the F-a-G is
> that it's tacky, and isn't likely to have chunks break off and plug
> important--read: oil--passageways. There was a guy on the web who went into
> a detailed analysis of this risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously,
> and sparingly, it's OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8,
> but haven't been adventurous enough to try it.
>
> Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless, of
> course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them in this
> lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G; in my
> experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than the covers (as
> long as they're straight), but copper washers with silicone works
> reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that has a rubber
> insert--can't recall the name right now--that should work well (if you can
> find them).
>
> * I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
> THAT again." If only that was true.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" and
> no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around the
> holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also,
> make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the
> receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few
> around to get them to go in the correct amount.
>    I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be
> out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Best
> of luck!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 on the way to recovery.
>
> On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.
> Woohoo.  Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.
> Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?  What should I use on
> the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?  How about the angle drive?
> Seal that or just crank it down OK?  Once this engine is together I would
> like to not have to take it apart again for leaks.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
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