From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun  1 07:11:29 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 09:11:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sealants
In-Reply-To: <157f89da-96fb-1c04-f0c3-365d63b98a1b@comcast.net>
References: <4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com>
 <157f89da-96fb-1c04-f0c3-365d63b98a1b@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ=9vKvrWhErv9xQR+YTWMzWvLoourC-d7yytxGY67_hg@mail.gmail.com>

* "I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
THAT again." If only that was true*."
Never happened to me ... ???

On Sun., May 31, 2020, 1:22 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Right up there with 'which oil to use.'
>
> I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful with
> Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with no gasket on
> my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried to remove it I hurt
> my right elbow sawing the pan off with a serrated kitchen knife (that was a
> couple years ago, and the elbow is still sore). When I told my mechanic
> about this, he said: "Well, you weren't supposed to remove the pan," but,
> shit happens. There are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly the
> grey is for import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are
> photos and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance,
> SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove the
> manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold (the RS held).
>
> Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around sealant.
> It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it easy(er) to
> remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on my gearbox/OD
> rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the critical OD body to
> tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is not supposed to have a
> gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting the depth of the annulus
> gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone 'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so
> far, no leaks. I just used the same stuff on the thermostat housing and
> water pump on my '55 T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work
> well. Note if the label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and
> holding a gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird's
> manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many manuals
> say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if at all; I use
> 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the cover, then run a thin
> bead of blue on the engine side. Side note: the advantage of the F-a-G is
> that it's tacky, and isn't likely to have chunks break off and plug
> important--read: oil--passageways. There was a guy on the web who went into
> a detailed analysis of this risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously,
> and sparingly, it's OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8,
> but haven't been adventurous enough to try it.
>
> Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless, of
> course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them in this
> lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G; in my
> experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than the covers (as
> long as they're straight), but copper washers with silicone works
> reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that has a rubber
> insert--can't recall the name right now--that should work well (if you can
> find them).
>
> * I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
> THAT again." If only that was true.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" and
> no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around the
> holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also,
> make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the
> receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few
> around to get them to go in the correct amount.
>    I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be
> out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Best
> of luck!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 on the way to recovery.
>
> On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>
> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.
> Woohoo.  Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.
> Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?  What should I use on
> the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?  How about the angle drive?
> Seal that or just crank it down OK?  Once this engine is together I would
> like to not have to take it apart again for leaks.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
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>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun  1 07:50:54 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 13:50:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners
In-Reply-To: <7ECCADA1-C2CD-4D5B-9E34-76FAB7B66F12@mac.com>
References: <CAJKrNeS=1rv6QOBAOza2R0DH2AHhveWq0ExfVB+b0azmVZkekA@mail.gmail.com>
 <7ECCADA1-C2CD-4D5B-9E34-76FAB7B66F12@mac.com>
Message-ID: <561837860.945366.1591019454843@mail.yahoo.com>

Curtis,I recall that you indicated that you were working on deciphering the proprietary hardware part numbers on the early 100's but did you indicate when that might be available??
Thanks,Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 31, 2020 8:31 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners

Outstanding contribution, Curt!?Thank you for this magnificent research effort.Lin Rose



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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun  1 07:50:54 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 13:50:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners
In-Reply-To: <7ECCADA1-C2CD-4D5B-9E34-76FAB7B66F12@mac.com>
References: <CAJKrNeS=1rv6QOBAOza2R0DH2AHhveWq0ExfVB+b0azmVZkekA@mail.gmail.com>
 <7ECCADA1-C2CD-4D5B-9E34-76FAB7B66F12@mac.com>
Message-ID: <561837860.945366.1591019454843@mail.yahoo.com>

Curtis,I recall that you indicated that you were working on deciphering the proprietary hardware part numbers on the early 100's but did you indicate when that might be available??
Thanks,Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 31, 2020 8:31 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants and fasteners

Outstanding contribution, Curt!?Thank you for this magnificent research effort.Lin Rose



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From happolk at cox.net  Mon Jun  1 09:26:17 2020
From: happolk at cox.net (Hap Polk)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 08:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] British car fasteners
Message-ID: <00ce01d63829$00fd1950$02f74bf0$@cox.net>

Curtis,

Thank you for putting together such a definitive treatise on the fascinating
history of British threaded fasteners and the industry's conversion to U.S.
standards. The British experience is a precursor to the U.S. slow walking
conversion to ISO standards. Looking at Austin-Healey products, one might
think that the Brits were more accommodating to having a variety of
approaches than their U.S. cousins. Might be a cultural thing.

 

I, we, would like to read a supplemental discussion of the relative merits
of the 55 degree rounded roots and peaks thread design versus the U.S.
standard of 60 degree with 'V' roots and peaks. What I remember from past
discussions regarding the overall performance characteristics of modern
thread designs; including thread stripping, pull out strength, and fatigue
resistance favored Whitworth first, then U.S. standard, with ISO bringing up
the rear. Is that your belief?

 

Will you possibly in a later effort describe the best uses of the various
fasteners depending on the materials being joined, loads and their
direction, vibration, load cycling, etcetera in selecting  fine versus
course thread; bolt shoulder, head, bearing surface and wrenching method,
and the many other criteria that enter into fastener selection.

 

You added to the points to consider when judging a car's concours 'as born'
condition. Thank you. However, would you consider expressing your opinion as
to which specific fastened joints a Healey owner might want to use a more
modern substitute fastener to make  a more reliable daily driver?

 

Thank you again for your authoritative contribution.

Hap

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun  1 10:04:25 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 09:04:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] British car fasteners
In-Reply-To: <00ce01d63829$00fd1950$02f74bf0$@cox.net>
References: <00ce01d63829$00fd1950$02f74bf0$@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4bfbf1d8-eb67-2650-2eb6-9f7d20eab986@comcast.net>

As an aside, there's a WWII story--true AFAIK--about Packard building 
the (fantastic) Merlin engine under license from RR. The Packard 
engineers where aghast to find that the Merlin used over 400 different 
fasteners; they re-engineered the engine to use about 100 (or less).

Another tale I heard once was about an American Air Force team doing a 
flying exhibition in England with F-86 Sabres. One of the inspection 
panels came loose, and one of the ground crew casually walked out, 
closed it and fastened a quarter-turn screw with a screwdriver. The Brit 
military personnel in attendance were astounded; for their planes, only 
a crew chief could tackle such a job, required re-fitting and 
re-attaching several pieces of skin, several different fasteners, and a 
ream of paperwork.

Bob

On 6/1/2020 8:26 AM, Hap Polk wrote:
>
> Curtis,
>
> Thank you for putting together such a definitive treatise on the 
> fascinating history of British threaded fasteners and the industry?s 
> conversion to U.S. standards. The British experience is a precursor to 
> the U.S. slow walking conversion to ISO standards. Looking at 
> Austin-Healey products, one might think that the Brits were more 
> accommodating to having a variety of approaches than their U.S. 
> cousins. Might be a cultural thing.
>
> I, we, would like to read a supplemental discussion of the relative 
> merits of the 55 degree rounded roots and peaks thread design versus 
> the U.S. standard of 60 degree with ?V? roots and peaks. What I 
> remember from past discussions regarding the overall performance 
> characteristics of modern thread designs; including thread stripping, 
> pull out strength, and fatigue resistance favored Whitworth first, 
> then U.S. standard, with ISO bringing up the rear. Is that your belief?
>
> Will you possibly in a later effort describe the best uses of the 
> various fasteners depending on the materials being joined, loads and 
> their direction, vibration, load cycling, etcetera in selecting ?fine 
> versus course thread; bolt shoulder, head, bearing surface and 
> wrenching method, and the many other criteria that enter into fastener 
> selection.
>
> You added to the points to consider when judging a car?s concours ?as 
> born? condition. Thank you. However, would you consider expressing 
> your opinion as to which specific fastened joints a Healey owner might 
> want to use a more modern substitute fastener to make ?a more reliable 
> daily driver?
>
> Thank you again for your authoritative contribution.
>
> Hap
>
>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Jun  1 11:27:44 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 18:27:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Parts book
Message-ID: <mailman.170.1591032470.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>



Sent from Mail for Windows 10
Hi, I?ve either lost or never saved the address for John New?s parts encyclopaedia. Could someone kindly send it to me?
Thanks,
Simon
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From jnew at hazelden.ca  Mon Jun  1 12:15:54 2020
From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New)
Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2020 14:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Parts book
In-Reply-To: <20200601172852.B1A64A0AC7@autox.team.net>
References: <20200601172852.B1A64A0AC7@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3850538.xo3S0yvHLp@johnpc>

lbcdigital.com

John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada

On Monday, June 1, 2020 1:27:44 PM EDT Simon Lachlan wrote:
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> Hi, I?ve either lost or never saved the address for John New?s parts encyclopaedia. Could someone kindly send it to me?
> Thanks,
> Simon
> 





From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Jun  2 02:58:03 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 04:58:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake
Message-ID: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>

I was about to ship my new tires with rims to Hendrix to have them shaved
and balanced.  However, the $300 each way cost via UPS made me look for a
local firm. I had tried before to find someone to shave the tires in Florida
with no results because the had no experience  with wire wheels. This time I
found that Amermac Tire Machines are used and searched for tire service
companies that had those machines.  Highway Tire in Palm, Fl had a website
that indicated they had experience so I called.  They indicated they had a
mechanic with 24 years of experience and had worked with wire wheels over
the years.  So I drove 120 miles across Florida with the tires in my van.  

 

They have an older machine which Mike can use to shave the tires on the car.
Instead, he  set it up on a box in front of an older Hunter balancing
machine to hold the tire and rim. Moreover, he was very careful to use the
correct dies so not to apply strong pressure on the wheel and damage the
splines.  He cut the new tire by slowly shaving of the rubber surface by
millimeters time after time until there was a flat surface meeting the road
surface.  Then he balanced the tires on another Hunter machine and showed me
that there were 2 tires which were perfect to put on the front, one tire
which is not perfect but ok for the rear and the last tire which showed the
rim was a more wobbly during the spinning and should always be on the rear.


 

I took them home and mounted them as recommended and went for a ride down
the Tamiami Trail.  Viola, no shake 55 - 65 mph.  In fact, the car when down
the road at all speeds with power surges up to 70 mph on a fairly smooth
road surface and on a rougher county road like a new modern roadster all the
way home.  If you have shake when driving your Healey, I highly recommend
shaving the tires.  Best $135.00 I spend on the car

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jun  2 04:50:19 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 11:50:19 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Parts List Site
Message-ID: <mailman.173.1591095023.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Thanks to everyone who sent me the link.
Simon

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun  2 06:08:17 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 08:08:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake
In-Reply-To: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>
References: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ5nQOrKB0nTzFA2-pfqhW3WEwYQuhsfcum4wtzj4Nf4Q@mail.gmail.com>

Where there is a will there is a way ?
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/

M
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jun  2 08:36:41 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 14:36:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Shims
References: <1139643784.1448145.1591108601058.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1139643784.1448145.1591108601058@mail.yahoo.com>

? ? ?Now that the Denis Welch tappets have finally arrived and been installed the pushrods and rocker assembly are next.? The four cylinder short block and head were?machined by my late restorer friend.? I have no idea what was cut off the two mating surfaces of the block and head.? Do I need to shim the rocker pedestals? If so, how do I figure how much they should be shimmed?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jun  2 11:31:32 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:31:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5nQOrKB0nTzFA2-pfqhW3WEwYQuhsfcum4wtzj4Nf4Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ5nQOrKB0nTzFA2-pfqhW3WEwYQuhsfcum4wtzj4Nf4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <709487064.348014.1591119093002@mail.yahoo.com>

 If you live in Southern California Nate Jones Tire in Signal Hill shaves tires and mounts wire wheels all day long.? Nate Jones Tire | Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel Balancing, Brakes and General Auto Repair

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Nate Jones Tire | Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel Balanc...

Specialty tire shop for race and street cars serving the Long Beach and Los Angeles area; tire truing and shavin...
 |

 |

 |




    On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 5:13:13 AM PDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Where there is a will there is a way ?http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/
M_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Jun  2 12:33:49 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 14:33:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round
trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly
went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a
problem.

So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder
bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.
The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual
does not indicate the bore size.

Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are
quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder
replacement  is not readily available.

Thanks for some sound advice,

Fred Wescoe
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jun  2 14:52:44 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:52:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>

Hi Fred,

I got into these sizes last year because I took my servo out (long story)?my notes say that the 7/8? bore is with servo.
You can get good quality replacement masters from Pegasus racing- they say they are genuine Girling.

Good luck,

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a problem. 
> 
> So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.  The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual does not indicate the bore size.
> 
> Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder replacement  is not readily available. 
> 
> Thanks for some sound advice,
> 
> Fred Wescoe
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 


From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jun  2 14:52:44 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:52:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>

Hi Fred,

I got into these sizes last year because I took my servo out (long story)?my notes say that the 7/8? bore is with servo.
You can get good quality replacement masters from Pegasus racing- they say they are genuine Girling.

Good luck,

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a problem. 
> 
> So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.  The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual does not indicate the bore size.
> 
> Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder replacement  is not readily available. 
> 
> Thanks for some sound advice,
> 
> Fred Wescoe
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 


From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jun  2 14:55:43 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:55:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
In-Reply-To: <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
 <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <47432ED1-E23B-43A9-892C-7B5A8F74EAF9@rogers.com>

hi again,
Just realized that there are two sizes of callipers in the BJ8 range?this will probably affect the size of your master.
I found the later (bigger) calipers came with a 7/8 master cylinder.

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> I got into these sizes last year because I took my servo out (long story)?my notes say that the 7/8? bore is with servo.
> You can get good quality replacement masters from Pegasus racing- they say they are genuine Girling.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a problem. 
>> 
>> So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.  The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual does not indicate the bore size.
>> 
>> Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder replacement  is not readily available. 
>> 
>> Thanks for some sound advice,
>> 
>> Fred Wescoe
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>> 
> 


From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jun  2 14:55:43 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 16:55:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
In-Reply-To: <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
 <746E13A7-A250-44F8-85E5-3A775AE64D6E@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <47432ED1-E23B-43A9-892C-7B5A8F74EAF9@rogers.com>

hi again,
Just realized that there are two sizes of callipers in the BJ8 range?this will probably affect the size of your master.
I found the later (bigger) calipers came with a 7/8 master cylinder.

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:52 PM, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> I got into these sizes last year because I took my servo out (long story)?my notes say that the 7/8? bore is with servo.
> You can get good quality replacement masters from Pegasus racing- they say they are genuine Girling.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a problem. 
>> 
>> So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.  The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual does not indicate the bore size.
>> 
>> Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder replacement  is not readily available. 
>> 
>> Thanks for some sound advice,
>> 
>> Fred Wescoe
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>> 
> 


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun  2 15:08:07 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 17:08:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder bore
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5rY5OiCy4zNjSYCBV7q6_1_esDC_ih+j=w0CM1gbRN1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKVTXY0N=Db2+wVtqbjYQoS_Px3MVMSgkUy8_kCoUK7kg@mail.gmail.com>

Don't be too hasty to condem the master cylinder on a BJ8. The servo and/or
rear cylinders are serious contenders also.
Diagnose *before* repair.
The master cyl was originally 7/8" bore as I recall.
M

On Tue., Jun. 2, 2020, 2:34 p.m. Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I took the car out for a nice long drive this morning (100+ miles round
> trip).  About 15 miles from home, on the way back, the brake pedal slowly
> went to the floor.  A quick pump and the brakes stopped the car without a
> problem.
>
> So now I need to repair/replace the master cylinder.  What size cylinder
> bore do I have?   The car is a 1964 BJ8, MK III with the brake booster.
> The chassis number is 29009.  Do I have a 78" or a 3/4" bore.  My manual
> does not indicate the bore size.
>
> Should I repair or replace it?  I am inclined to repair if there are
> quality parts available.  It seems that a quality master cylinder
> replacement  is not readily available.
>
> Thanks for some sound advice,
>
> Fred Wescoe
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jun  2 16:35:39 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 18:35:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] You never know...
Message-ID: <mailman.174.1591137349.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
I was in touch with a gentleman from Florida that needed a few Austin Healey bits. His friend who was traveling through western PA offered to stop by the house today to pick them up.  Turns out he is none other than Russ Deane, life long racer and SEMA retired General Counsel and Marine.  Nice visit and it was an eye opener for me. This fellow drove a 4 cylinder Neon 226 MPH at Bonneville and has had exciting life racing and promoting many of the things we, as Austin Healey owners, enjoy. And yes he has owned a Healey before. He was eye balling our Yellow modified BN2 and wondered if it might be for sale?.Nope!
Life brings little events from time to time that just make you smile, even in a time when many are hurting. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jun  2 16:49:47 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 15:49:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] You never know...
In-Reply-To: <20200602224128.9E59DA195C@autox.team.net>
References: <20200602224128.9E59DA195C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89nQCQ6Duh40LcyRp4bvKxu+7VY+0Kv_8OmD=WkFTzOmA@mail.gmail.com>

we met great folks along the way and many are sent to us a common lover of
LBCs.
 Thanks for sharing,
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 3:41 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Listers
>
> I was in touch with a gentleman from Florida that needed a few Austin
> Healey bits. His friend who was traveling through western PA offered to
> stop by the house today to pick them up.  Turns out he is none other than
> Russ Deane, life long racer and SEMA retired General Counsel and Marine.
> Nice visit and it was an eye opener for me. This fellow drove a 4 cylinder
> Neon 226 MPH at Bonneville and has had exciting life racing and promoting
> many of the things we, as Austin Healey owners, enjoy. And yes he has owned
> a Healey before. He was eye balling our Yellow modified BN2 and wondered if
> it might be for sale?.Nope!
>
> Life brings little events from time to time that just make you smile, even
> in a time when many are hurting.
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bgdrab at redzone.ca  Tue Jun  2 17:10:12 2020
From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 23:10:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
Message-ID: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better than it has ever run!
I can only think that after starting the car after it's long winters nap, one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure the everything was related.
Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
Brian Drab
Vancouver BC
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  2 20:24:38 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2020 02:24:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Brian, Yes the rear carb is especially difficult to remove. Two years ago I helped a friend with his Jaguar E-Type V12, it took me about 4 hours to remove four carbs, absolutely awful.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Brian Drab<mailto:bgdrab at redzone.ca>
Sent: June 2, 2020 6:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem

Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better than it has ever run!
I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters nap, one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure the everything was related.
Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
Brian Drab
Vancouver BC

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jun  2 21:22:57 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 23:22:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <45DB4E56-FD9D-4D12-814E-6794A3557FCC@rogers.com>

I?ve never forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to remove those HD8?s?I find myself in some pretty weird positions trying to get at those nuts.
I?ve had my car for 45 years, so they?ve been off a number of times, and I still don?t have any secret tricks to share on that one!

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 10:24 PM, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Brian, Yes the rear carb is especially difficult to remove. Two years ago I helped a friend with his Jaguar E-Type V12, it took me about 4 hours to remove four carbs, absolutely awful.
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>  
> From: Brian Drab <mailto:bgdrab at redzone.ca>
> Sent: June 2, 2020 6:19 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
>  
> Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
> In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better than it has ever run!
> I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters nap, one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure the everything was related. 
> Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
> One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
> Brian Drab
> Vancouver BC
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue Jun  2 22:31:06 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 21:31:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake
In-Reply-To: <709487064.348014.1591119093002@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ5nQOrKB0nTzFA2-pfqhW3WEwYQuhsfcum4wtzj4Nf4Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <709487064.348014.1591119093002@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <034601d6395f$cc8605a0$659210e0$@roadrunner.com>

Only place I use for the Healey.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 10:32 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>; Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake

 

If you live in Southern California Nate Jones Tire in Signal Hill shaves tires and mounts wire wheels all day long.  Nate Jones Tire | Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel Balancing, Brakes and General Auto Repair <http://www.natejonestire.com/> 

 



 






	

Nate Jones Tire | Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel Balanc...


Specialty tire shop for race and street cars serving the Long Beach and Los Angeles area; tire truing and shavin...

 

 

 

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 5:13:13 AM PDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Where there is a will there is a way ?http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/

 

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20> http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun  2 22:46:57 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 21:46:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the shuttle Shake
In-Reply-To: <034601d6395f$cc8605a0$659210e0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <048d01d638bb$ed4e2690$c7ea73b0$@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ5nQOrKB0nTzFA2-pfqhW3WEwYQuhsfcum4wtzj4Nf4Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <709487064.348014.1591119093002@mail.yahoo.com>
 <034601d6395f$cc8605a0$659210e0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <41b08d64-d0c7-e9f7-0032-aa3e495f8406@comcast.net>

OK, anyone know of a good shop for NorCal (preferably Central Valley)?? 
The guy who used to do mine--Zenith WW in Campbell--retired then died 
(but not before he sold the shop to people who only do lowriders).? He 
told me he used to do the wheels for Kjell Qvale back in the day.


On 6/2/2020 9:31 PM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> Only place I use for the Healey.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael MacLean
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 02, 2020 10:32 AM
> *To:* Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>; Michael Salter 
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shaved Michelin 180 15 XAS tires and the 
> shuttle Shake
>
> If you live in Southern California Nate Jones Tire in Signal Hill 
> shaves tires and mounts wire wheels all day long. Nate Jones Tire | 
> Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel Balancing, Brakes and 
> General Auto Repair <http://www.natejonestire.com/>
>
>
> Text Box:
>
>
> 	
>
>
>     Nate Jones Tire | Tire Truing, Race Tire Shaving, Precision Wheel
>     Balanc...
>
> Specialty tire shop for race and street cars serving the Long Beach 
> and Los Angeles area; tire truing and shavin...
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun  2 22:57:00 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2020 21:57:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <d6619c7f-a112-114c-5f9a-85416017fe6c@comcast.net>

It's very surprising no one on this list suggested that possible cause 
early on.

I think somewhere in the shop manual it says that those 'grub' screws 
take a set and shouldn't be reused.

Bob


On 6/2/2020 4:10 PM, Brian Drab wrote:
>
> Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the 
> enthusiastic support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
>
> In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned 
> them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was 
> checking the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the 
> piston I noticed that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on 
> the need it easily slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one 
> of the occasions that the car was popping back through the carbs , the 
> action sharply pushed up on the piston and dislodged the needle which 
> would have fallen down into the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In 
> any event when I positioned the needle correctly and tightened the 
> screw then carefully made all of the adjustments ?and reinstalled 
> everything, ?the car is now running better than it has ever run!
>
> I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters 
> nap, one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the 
> overflow. I have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the 
> engine but I am sure the everything was related.
>
> Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every 
> reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
>
> One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get 
> those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right 
> nut on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have 
> been a lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
>
> Brian Drab
>
> Vancouver BC
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jun  4 15:35:37 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 14:35:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <45DB4E56-FD9D-4D12-814E-6794A3557FCC@rogers.com>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <45DB4E56-FD9D-4D12-814E-6794A3557FCC@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-_OCNDCwcPT1+5JL4WyEJMMkBxOGpcvGjk3XodZ6YH4A@mail.gmail.com>

When I installed the hd8s on my bt7 engine my very petite daughter in law
as nd my son were living with us. Her tiny hands got a few nuts started for
me.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
59 BN4
67MGB
65 AH Sprite
phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 8:25 PM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> I?ve never forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to remove those HD8?s?I
> find myself in some pretty weird positions trying to get at those nuts.
> I?ve had my car for 45 years, so they?ve been off a number of times, and I
> still don?t have any secret tricks to share on that one!
>
> Stephen, BJ8
>
> On Jun 2, 2020, at 10:24 PM, Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Brian, Yes the rear carb is especially difficult to remove. Two years ago
> I helped a friend with his Jaguar E-Type V12, it took me about 4 hours to
> remove four carbs, absolutely awful.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>
> *Sent: *June 2, 2020 6:19 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Running Problem
>
> Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic
> support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
> In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned
> them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking
> the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed
> that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily
> slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that
> the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up
> on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into
> the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the
> needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the
> adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better
> than it has ever run!
> I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters nap,
> one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I
> have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure
> the everything was related.
> Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every
> reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
> One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get
> those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut
> on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a
> lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
> Brian Drab
> Vancouver BC
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bgdrab at redzone.ca  Thu Jun  4 15:40:09 2020
From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab)
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 21:40:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-_OCNDCwcPT1+5JL4WyEJMMkBxOGpcvGjk3XodZ6YH4A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <45DB4E56-FD9D-4D12-814E-6794A3557FCC@rogers.com>
 <CABXhz8-_OCNDCwcPT1+5JL4WyEJMMkBxOGpcvGjk3XodZ6YH4A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <YQBPR0101MB086819C72C0A1AC4FC962C84AB890@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Unfortunately I don?t have a very petite daughter in law that I could call on. It would take longer to explain what I wanted done than if I toughed it out myself!
Brian

From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Sent: June 4, 2020 2:36 PM
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Cc: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Problem

When I installed the hd8s on my bt7 engine my very petite daughter in law as nd my son were living with us. Her tiny hands got a few nuts started for me.
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
59 BN4
67MGB
65 AH Sprite
phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 8:25 PM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com<mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com>> wrote:
I?ve never forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to remove those HD8?s?I find myself in some pretty weird positions trying to get at those nuts.
I?ve had my car for 45 years, so they?ve been off a number of times, and I still don?t have any secret tricks to share on that one!

Stephen, BJ8


On Jun 2, 2020, at 10:24 PM, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:

Brian, Yes the rear carb is especially difficult to remove. Two years ago I helped a friend with his Jaguar E-Type V12, it took me about 4 hours to remove four carbs, absolutely awful.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Brian Drab<mailto:bgdrab at redzone.ca>
Sent: June 2, 2020 6:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem

Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better than it has ever run!
I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters nap, one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure the everything was related.
Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
Brian Drab
Vancouver BC

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jun  4 15:41:38 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 14:41:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Running Problem
In-Reply-To: <YQBPR0101MB086819C72C0A1AC4FC962C84AB890@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YQBPR0101MB08687E76C47FE794D85A62E5AB8B0@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462CD7CB874944F2688C669D1880@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <45DB4E56-FD9D-4D12-814E-6794A3557FCC@rogers.com>
 <CABXhz8-_OCNDCwcPT1+5JL4WyEJMMkBxOGpcvGjk3XodZ6YH4A@mail.gmail.com>
 <YQBPR0101MB086819C72C0A1AC4FC962C84AB890@YQBPR0101MB0868.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <CABXhz888UHjmwqLRB-bjsSDwwVzQD+PRA1mPS6hm9Ujbtycbow@mail.gmail.com>

I was lucky .
I intend to borrow her again when I install my headers

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
59 BN4
67MGB
65 AH Sprite
phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 2:40 PM Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca> wrote:

> Unfortunately I don?t have a very petite daughter in law that I could call
> on. It would take longer to explain what I wanted done than if I toughed it
> out myself!
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* June 4, 2020 2:36 PM
> *To:* Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> *Cc:* Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; Brian Drab <
> bgdrab at redzone.ca>; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Running Problem
>
>
>
> When I installed the hd8s on my bt7 engine my very petite daughter in law
> as nd my son were living with us. Her tiny hands got a few nuts started for
> me.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 59 BN4
> 67MGB
> 65 AH Sprite
> phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 8:25 PM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> wrote:
>
> I?ve never forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to remove those HD8?s?I
> find myself in some pretty weird positions trying to get at those nuts.
>
> I?ve had my car for 45 years, so they?ve been off a number of times, and I
> still don?t have any secret tricks to share on that one!
>
>
>
> Stephen, BJ8
>
>
>
> On Jun 2, 2020, at 10:24 PM, Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Brian, Yes the rear carb is especially difficult to remove. Two years ago
> I helped a friend with his Jaguar E-Type V12, it took me about 4 hours to
> remove four carbs, absolutely awful.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Brian Drab <bgdrab at redzone.ca>
> *Sent: *June 2, 2020 6:19 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Running Problem
>
>
>
> Success! I would like to thank everyone on the list for the enthusiastic
> support I received in trying to get my BJ8 running properly.
>
> In the end I took both carbs off and took the right apart and cleaned
> them. Nothing seemed untoward or problematic Except while I was checking
> the screw hold one of the fuel metering needles into the piston I noticed
> that it seemed a little too loose. When I tugged on the need it easily
> slipped out of position. I am surmising that on one of the occasions that
> the car was popping back through the carbs , the action sharply pushed up
> on the piston and dislodged the needle which would have fallen down into
> the jet and blocked fuel from flowing. In any event when I positioned the
> needle correctly and tightened the screw then carefully made all of the
> adjustments  and reinstalled everything,  the car is now running better
> than it has ever run!
>
> I can only think that after starting the car after it?s long winters nap,
> one of the float needles hung open and dumped fuel out off the overflow. I
> have no explanation for the puddle of fuel under the engine but I am sure
> the everything was related.
>
> Again thank you all for the ideas, believe me I looked each and every
> reply. This list is an unbelievable asset.
>
> One minor thing, I had forgotten how obscenely difficult it is to get
> those carbs off and on. It took me over an hour to get the lower right nut
> on the stud for the front carb. If I had tiny hands it would have been a
> lot easier but we have to do with what we have.
>
> Brian Drab
>
> Vancouver BC
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jun  5 02:41:27 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 08:41:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fastener Curiosity
References: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>

Here is one for you Healey fastener buffs.? I installed the rocker assembly to the BN2 engine tonight.? Before I started, I found that I had two complete sets of studs, nuts and washers to install on the head.? Finally getting to torque the pedestal nuts down I was surprised to find two of the nuts were a different size than the other six.? Let me back up a bit.? I was surprised to find BSF threaded nuts with flats that fit a 9/16ths socket.? The two different nuts would only fit a BSF/Whitworth socket.? So, I took out the other set of nuts and washers and found they all fit the BSF/Whitworth socket.? In the name of uniformity I used the BSF sized nuts on all the pedestal studs.? Just seems kind of crazy a nut that only fit a 9/16ths socket would have BSF threads.? What's up with that?Mike MacLean
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun  5 04:32:50 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 12:32:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fastener Curiosity
In-Reply-To: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d5198e4e-bbfb-d2c7-7160-8d582e78b6d6@chello.nl>

Watch out. There are thread type's with the same TPI and but different 
top angle's of the thread, e.g. UNF/UNC 60? and Witworth 56?. They may 
seemingly fit but when you torque them down according spec you may strip 
the thread. The nuts may have different AF sizes.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 5-6-2020 om 10:41 schreef Michael MacLean:
> Here is one for you Healey fastener buffs.? I installed the rocker 
> assembly to the BN2 engine tonight.? Before I started, I found that I 
> had two complete sets of studs, nuts and washers to install on the 
> head.? Finally getting to torque the pedestal nuts down I was 
> surprised to find two of the nuts were a different size than the other 
> six.? Let me back up a bit.? I was surprised to find BSF threaded nuts 
> with flats that fit a 9/16ths socket.? The two different nuts would 
> only fit a BSF/Whitworth socket.? So, I took out the other set of nuts 
> and washers and found they all fit the BSF/Whitworth socket.? In the 
> name of uniformity I used the BSF sized nuts on all the pedestal 
> studs.? Just seems kind of crazy a nut that only fit a 9/16ths socket 
> would have BSF threads.? What's up with that?
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jun  5 07:00:10 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 13:00:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fastener Curiosity
In-Reply-To: <d5198e4e-bbfb-d2c7-7160-8d582e78b6d6@chello.nl>
References: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d5198e4e-bbfb-d2c7-7160-8d582e78b6d6@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <1222118630.3202848.1591362010548@mail.yahoo.com>

Kees,?? ? ?I know the difference.? I have a degree in mechanical design and have worked as an aerospace fastener designer.? The threads in both nuts were exactly the same BSF thread.? The only difference was the distance across flats were BSF/Whitworth on one set of nuts and SAE across flats distance wise on the other set.? That is what surprised me.? I did not know hybrid fasteners even existed, but both sets were sold as fastener sets for 100-4 pedestal studs.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 3:33 AM, Kees Oudesluijs<coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

  
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jun  5 07:38:28 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 15:38:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fastener Curiosity
In-Reply-To: <1222118630.3202848.1591362010548@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d5198e4e-bbfb-d2c7-7160-8d582e78b6d6@chello.nl>
 <1222118630.3202848.1591362010548@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ab267c18-ceaa-f4ad-9d8c-887b0a5458b0@chello.nl>

Hi Mike

Hybrid nuts and bolts even exist in UNF/UNC thread with metric AF 
spanner sizes. Probably the same for some UK thread patterns. I do not 
mean sizes that fit metric tools but deliberately made that way. I 
suppose it may have been caused by manufacturing USA and US products in 
"metric countries", e.g. Farmall tractors produced in France. You won't 
find these in any books/tables.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 5-6-2020 om 15:00 schreef Michael MacLean:
> Kees,
> ? ? ?I know the difference.? I have a degree in mechanical design and 
> have worked as an aerospace fastener designer.? The threads in both 
> nuts were exactly the same BSF thread.? The only difference was the 
> distance across flats were BSF/Whitworth on one set of nuts and SAE 
> across flats distance wise on the other set.? That is what surprised 
> me.? I did not know hybrid fasteners even existed, but both sets were 
> sold as fastener sets for 100-4 pedestal studs.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>     On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 3:33 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
>     <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Fri Jun  5 12:07:10 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2020 19:07:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fastener Curiosity
In-Reply-To: <1222118630.3202848.1591362010548@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1532036267.3124377.1591346487953@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d5198e4e-bbfb-d2c7-7160-8d582e78b6d6@chello.nl>
 <1222118630.3202848.1591362010548@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxeE7G-S7Dem+DPYvVPtyTa-cW2BneyDX+H1eNV7=t54qQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike

Just as a matter of interest; early Whitworth fasteners like nuts and bolts
heads were originally larger than is the general  case today

They were one size different so for example on a spanner you will see
markings like 1W/4 and 5/16 BSF. on the same end.

Best regards

On Fri, 5 Jun 2020 at 14:04, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Kees,
>      I know the difference.  I have a degree in mechanical design and have
> worked as an aerospace fastener designer.  The threads in both nuts were
> exactly the same BSF thread.  The only difference was the distance across
> flats were BSF/Whitworth on one set of nuts and SAE across flats distance
> wise on the other set.  That is what surprised me.  I did not know hybrid
> fasteners even existed, but both sets were sold as fastener sets for 100-4
> pedestal studs.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 3:33 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Jun  6 12:26:17 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 14:26:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 OD
Message-ID: <1126276493.7422680.1591467977977.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

After working perfectly for years, my OD has developed a mind of its' own.  She will go in when she wants to ---or not.  So---first thought the little side valve hole might be clogged.  Pulled it out--blew it out--reinstalled, still no change.  Replaced the O/D switch---same result. so---not sure what to do now.  I can hear the solonoid click when I move the switch up and down,Appreciate any suggestions.Tom
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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Sat Jun  6 12:44:06 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders)
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 14:44:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 OD
In-Reply-To: <1126276493.7422680.1591467977977.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1126276493.7422680.1591467977977.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <013301d63c32$75fdb180$61f91480$@gmail.com>

First thing;   Check the oil level?

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 2:26 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 OD

 

After working perfectly for years, my OD has developed a mind of its' own.  She will go in when she wants to ---or not.  So---first thought the little side valve hole might be clogged.  Pulled it out--blew it out--reinstalled, still no change.  Replaced the O/D switch---same result. so---not sure what to do now.  I can hear the solonoid click when I move the switch up and down,

 

Appreciate any suggestions.

 

Tom

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Jun  6 16:31:08 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 18:31:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Drain tubes
References: <A08D118F-F14E-4583-A63A-DEFFC7AB2B67.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <A08D118F-F14E-4583-A63A-DEFFC7AB2B67@rogers.com>

I've owned my car for many years, but it seems that lately I?m getting more fuel dripping from the drain tubes after a run.
It seems to drip for a long time before slowing down and stopping. Now, I?m not talking about big puddles of fuel, but I started to poke around because I could smell it and there is a small puddle in the pan under the car. Nothing leaking from the carbs at all.
Anyone else noticed this?

Stephen BJ8

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jun  6 17:00:22 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 19:00:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Drain tubes
In-Reply-To: <A08D118F-F14E-4583-A63A-DEFFC7AB2B67@rogers.com>
References: <A08D118F-F14E-4583-A63A-DEFFC7AB2B67.ref@rogers.com>
 <A08D118F-F14E-4583-A63A-DEFFC7AB2B67@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+UWDvdj-HT9OQgCjDb5CPChKmYPSY9CzoR9xsFLg41KA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Stephen,
If the carb float needle valves are not sealing completely when you turn
off, the pressure in the fuel line created by the fuel pump spring can send
a full pump charge trickling into one or both carbs. This is usually of
sufficient volume to overfill the float chamber and the fuel runs out of
the carb jet and eventually finds its way into the manifold and runs out
the manifold drain tube(s).
The vitron needle valves that used to be available really stopped that
problem but I'm not sure if they are still available.

M

On Sat., Jun. 6, 2020, 6:31 p.m. Stephen Hutchings, <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> I've owned my car for many years, but it seems that lately I?m getting
> more fuel dripping from the drain tubes after a run.
> It seems to drip for a long time before slowing down and stopping. Now,
> I?m not talking about big puddles of fuel, but I started to poke around
> because I could smell it and there is a small puddle in the pan under the
> car. Nothing leaking from the carbs at all.
> Anyone else noticed this?
>
> Stephen BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun  6 19:32:05 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2020 18:32:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 OD
In-Reply-To: <013301d63c32$75fdb180$61f91480$@gmail.com>
References: <1126276493.7422680.1591467977977.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <013301d63c32$75fdb180$61f91480$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b6b37106-93bf-ba55-3e93-8fc8092dc389@comcast.net>

Sometimes they'll do this when the relay gets flaky (happened to me on a 
long road trip). The relay can be opened up--carefully--and the points 
filed.

Bob

On 6/6/2020 11:44 AM, skip saunders wrote:
>
> First thing;?? Check the oil level?
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Tom Felts
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 6, 2020 2:26 PM
> *To:* healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bj8 OD
>
> After working perfectly for years, my OD has developed a mind of its' 
> own.? She will go in when she wants to ---or not. So---first thought 
> the little side valve hole might be clogged.? Pulled it out--blew it 
> out--reinstalled, still no change.? Replaced the O/D switch---same 
> result. so---not sure what to do now.? I can hear the solonoid click 
> when I move the switch up and down,
>
> Appreciate any suggestions.
>
> Tom
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun  7 10:39:58 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 09:39:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100S in Hemmings
Message-ID: <354d0b7f-7c27-f14e-df20-70a266ef623e@comcast.net>


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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sun Jun  7 17:26:53 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 11:26:53 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 100S in Hemmings
In-Reply-To: <354d0b7f-7c27-f14e-df20-70a266ef623e@comcast.net>
References: <354d0b7f-7c27-f14e-df20-70a266ef623e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000901d63d23$21d22c20$65768460$@xtra.co.nz>

This is AHS 3506 ? the Bill Brewster car.

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Monday, 8 June 2020 4:40 a.m.
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100S in Hemmings

 

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun  7 18:34:18 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 17:34:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>

I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

*https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8*
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jun  7 19:01:48 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 18:01:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water Temp Capillary Routing
Message-ID: <811321A0E7C348D38734661AF8D9E607@AllInOne>

Help,
 
I didn't take enough pictures when I took the dash out of my car and I can't
remember how the water temperature capillary tube is routed on the interior
side of the firewall. Where does the capillary tube go with respect to the
wiper motor on a BT7? Left, right, above or below? I didn't find any clips
securing the capillary on the interior side but should there be any?
 
Thanks in advance ... Harold
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  7 20:59:19 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 02:59:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Temp Capillary Routing
In-Reply-To: <811321A0E7C348D38734661AF8D9E607@AllInOne>
References: <811321A0E7C348D38734661AF8D9E607@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB14629AB7C0850DA41C922DC3D1850@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Harold,
Here is a diagram of the bulkhead of a BT7 showing the location of various items going through the bulkhead.

Jean[cid:image003.jpg at 01D63D16.E3C5BC50]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Harold Manifold<mailto:manifold at telus.net>
Sent: June 7, 2020 8:23 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Water Temp Capillary Routing

Help,

I didn't take enough pictures when I took the dash out of my car and I can't remember how the water temperature capillary tube is routed on the interior side of the firewall. Where does the capillary tube go with respect to the wiper motor on a BT7? Left, right, above or below? I didn't find any clips securing the capillary on the interior side but should there be any?

Thanks in advance ... Harold

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Jun  7 21:26:13 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2020 20:26:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
References: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+apKHQgNePqie+61vTgrDBfMQeM=06S3DUaKn19bw66vg@mail.gmail.com>

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery posts.
If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can still use in a
BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if you aren't very
careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of the door well. It fits
all the other cars, though.

Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50.  So unless you are
going for Concours save your money.

-Roland
BN1 #724

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:
>
> *https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8 <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>*
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Mon Jun  8 03:11:43 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 10:11:43 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
References: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxdaAhyu3J6xj6W-9DamBDWC2QdcihUvT5mjx1dEv9ghgw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob

I believe this is one that I fitted some time ago but now replaced.

It was if I recall just a little taller but that was OK. The main problem
was that it did not have to hold down extension to the top of the battery
and I had to make a frame that fitted to the top of the battery but also
hang over the width so that I could use the original hod down fittings

Best regards

On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 01:35, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:
>
> *https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8 <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>*
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jun  8 04:49:36 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 20:49:36 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Weber DCOE jet lid riser extension kit
Message-ID: <E8C29364-7918-4CCA-97CD-F923067C3728@gmail.com>

Hi all, I just wanted to explain how I fixed the ?fuel splash into the air corrector? issues I used to have when I used to compete with my triple Webered Healey 3000. 
First time I ran a motorkhana - everytime I went hard braking into a garage, did a front end throw, etc, the webers spluttered, and the engine stalled. Same sort of thing happened on the track - when you had to brake hard, turn - Webers would go splutter..... splutter... before it would eventually clear and take off again. 
The old school solution was a jet lid riser extension kit. Problem solved. 
I've had these on my triple webered Healey 3000 for over 20 years.
It's not a new concept, but I was pretty shocked that no one makes them any more for DCOE Webers.
They are designed to stop fuel sloshing into the air corrector (at the top of the emulsion tube, under the emulsion tube holder) during harsh braking, cornering and extended high speed cornering. 
The Weber DCOE jet lid riser kit comprises a machined new emulsion? tube holder with a Pressed on thin wall brass sleeve, with a nice Shiny new alloy Jet lid riser/ spacer, with a new stainless longer stud, and a Viton seal. 
So I?m making a few new kits, for some mates who were having the same issues - especially in Spridgets with Weber DCOE?s. Let me know if you?re interested In some. 
Chris. 

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jun  8 05:05:00 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 07:05:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+apKHQgNePqie+61vTgrDBfMQeM=06S3DUaKn19bw66vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
 <CADpDe+apKHQgNePqie+61vTgrDBfMQeM=06S3DUaKn19bw66vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6ckKfZ_yUQbZ39mvq+yL8nth6UAsf=wb4xF0=DbV1LyA@mail.gmail.com>

What Roland said AND you can find a modern battery with terminals mounted
on one of its long sides threaded to receive a bolt, avoiding the problem
of top terminals' possible shorting against the car's body and making
connection/disconnection infinitely easier.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Jun  8 11:53:34 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2020 17:53:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <dae21be723c53e402415d872ee2eaf7bf009dde0@webmail>

I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain
charge. They no longer make a 17L battery. Now-a-days you can still
purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and
is about 1" taller than the old 17s. Reason why is that VW bugs and
MGBs also used that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the
battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short out
the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than the
17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works as
well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the
battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roland Wilhelmy" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery
posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can
still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if
you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of
the door well. It fits all the other cars, though. 
Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are
going for Concours save your money. 
-RolandBN1 #724
On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

  [2]HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8 [3] 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [4]http://www.team.net/donate.html [5]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [6]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] 
[8]http://autox.team.net/archive [9]

 Healeys at autox.team.net [10]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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[14]

  

Links:
------
[1] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[2] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[3] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[4] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jun  8 13:16:40 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 15:16:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The same but different
Message-ID: <1cd319e7-36fd-dbf1-7ae8-454593cd723c@earthlink.net>

Listers,

I'm going going through the brakes and front hubs on our 1980 MGB.  The 
front hubs use the same bearings and shims as the later BJ8s. It's 
interesting (to me at least) that the MGB workshop manual states that 
you want 2 to 4 thousandths of an inch end float.  The Austin-Healey 
workshop manual states that you want to remove the end float.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun  8 13:52:39 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 15:52:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] The same but different
In-Reply-To: <1cd319e7-36fd-dbf1-7ae8-454593cd723c@earthlink.net>
References: <1cd319e7-36fd-dbf1-7ae8-454593cd723c@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+5xgZgz8VcuTKsZaASo_xpJRnfvyvpM7N6_h1E7Ep+dw@mail.gmail.com>

Those MGs always were a bit loosey goosey ??

On Mon., Jun. 8, 2020, 3:16 p.m. Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I'm going going through the brakes and front hubs on our 1980 MGB.  The
> front hubs use the same bearings and shims as the later BJ8s. It's
> interesting (to me at least) that the MGB workshop manual states that
> you want 2 to 4 thousandths of an inch end float.  The Austin-Healey
> workshop manual states that you want to remove the end float.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun  8 15:01:26 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 17:01:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
References: <a4b7a597-9012-0971-b66a-b43af60b0047@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLJLhMYHTPDv_+0NQD_5mLz20Hm8F_pjVryYgxYJKdedw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a couple of original Lucas 17L batteries.
The cases are 6 7/8" high 7 1/2" long (not including the mount bolt tabs)
and they are 6 7/8" wide.
The posts add 3/4" to the height.

M

On Sun., Jun. 7, 2020, 8:35 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:
>
> *https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8 <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>*
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun  8 19:52:23 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2020 18:52:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <dae21be723c53e402415d872ee2eaf7bf009dde0@webmail>
References: <dae21be723c53e402415d872ee2eaf7bf009dde0@webmail>
Message-ID: <322fc948-4071-a5d6-443a-9ba2cbd4b514@comcast.net>

Nice. I currently have a couple of the 17HF Interstates; so far, they've 
been OK, but I haven't had good luck with Interstate in other cars.? We 
did a lot of work to fix a DPO's jury-rig of a 12V in the boot, I'd like 
to keep the original 2x6V if at all possible.

Yeah, I can't find a 17L anywhere; since they're smaller I'd guess even 
less cranking power.

Bob

On 6/8/2020 10:53 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto 
> battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain 
> charge. They no longer make a 17L battery.? Now-a-days you can still 
> purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and 
> is about 1" taller than the old 17s.? Reason why is that VW bugs and 
> MGBs also used? that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate 
> the battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short 
> out the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than 
> the 17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works 
> as well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the 
> battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Roland Wilhelmy"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healeys"
> Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
>
> Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery 
> posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can 
> still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if 
> you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of 
> the door well. It fits all the other cars, though.
>
> Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and 
> marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A 
> 12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two 
> original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are 
> going for Concours save your money.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 #724
>
> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:
>
>     *https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8*
>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun  9 14:01:05 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2020 20:01:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <adfb507ef6aae7b3615c7815afb98139fc777fd4@webmail>

John-I never take offence on anything Healey...not too many things
were "standard" as is found on US made cars. The early '53s had lots
of differences (over 50) from later production and BN2s. However,
there is a bolt hole on the rear panel of #588, as you noted, (as seen
here) but the cable supplied by Rhode Island Wiring was not long
enough to connect to that spot. Since the cable came assembled with
the helmets and proper sheathing, I did not want to alter it. I think
the concours hit would be 1/2 point. and as Perry said in the scope of
it all, it probably would not affect winning gold status. Good eye!
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Harper" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 8 2020 11:57:11AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Roland
I hope that you will not take offence with following but I believe
that the linking cable should be held up the middle with a 'P' clip
and a small bolt and nut on the lower lip of the rear of the panel
Best regards
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 18:53,  wrote:
I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain
charge. They no longer make a 17L battery. Now-a-days you can still
purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and
is about 1" taller than the old 17s. Reason why is that VW bugs and
MGBs also used that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the
battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short out
the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than the
17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works as
well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the
battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com
[2]

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roland Wilhelmy" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery
posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can
still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if
you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of
the door well. It fits all the other cars, though. 
Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are
going for Concours save your money. 
-RolandBN1 #724
On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

  [4] [5]HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8 [6] 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [7] [8]http://www.team.net/donate.html [9]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [10] [11]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [12]  [13]
[14]http://autox.team.net/archive [15]

 Healeys at autox.team.net [16]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage:  [20]
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[22]

   _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [23]http://www.team.net/donate.html [24]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [25]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [26] 
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 Healeys at autox.team.net [29]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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[33]

-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary 

Links:
------
[1] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[2] http://healeyhelper.com
[3] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[4] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[5] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[6] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[7] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[8] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[9] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[10] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[11] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun  9 17:47:48 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2020 19:47:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
In-Reply-To: <adfb507ef6aae7b3615c7815afb98139fc777fd4@webmail>
References: <adfb507ef6aae7b3615c7815afb98139fc777fd4@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKagJg36Atv3Jiub+khOjfjzKz8wEhhdXuDxnEqr=DkvQ@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding the Rhode Island battery to battery cable.
A few years back I encountered the same issue with the battery to battery
cable being too short on a BN1. The one supplied was 15 1/2" center to
center of the terminal caps.
I contacted R I W and they were very obliging, sent me a replacement which
was 2" longer and indicated that they would amend their information for
future orders.
It was plenty long enough.
[image: image.png]

I'm sure that if you were to contact them they would be only too happy to
help out.

M



On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 4:02 PM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> John-I never take offence on anything Healey...not too many things were
> "standard" as is found on US made cars. The early '53s had lots of
> differences (over 50) from later production and BN2s. However, there is a
> bolt hole on the rear panel of #588, as you noted, (as seen here) but the
> cable supplied by Rhode Island Wiring was not long enough to connect to
> that spot. Since the cable came assembled with the helmets and proper
> sheathing, I did not want to alter it. I think the concours hit would be
> 1/2 point. and as Perry said in the scope of it all, it probably would not
> affect winning gold status. Good eye! Regards, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "John Harper"
> To: gradea1 at charter.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday June 8 2020 11:57:11AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
>
> Roland
>
> I hope that you will not take offence with following but I believe that
> the linking cable should be held up the middle with a 'P' clip and a small
> bolt and nut on the lower lip of the rear of the panel
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 18:53, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
>> battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain charge.
>> They no longer make a 17L battery.  Now-a-days you can still purchase a 19L
>> battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and is about 1" taller
>> than the old 17s.  Reason why is that VW bugs and MGBs also used  that same
>> unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the battery lid with Armacord; if
>> the lid is distorted it could short out the terminals. Otherwise it fits
>> fine and is more powerful than the 17L. Interstate Battery makes one
>> available today. One 12V works as well, but you will fail concours (if
>> that's an issue). Here is the battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100.
>> Hank, healeyhelper.com
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>> From: "Roland Wilhelmy"
>> To: "Bob Spidell"
>> Cc: "Healeys"
>> Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
>>
>> Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery posts.
>> If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can still use in a
>> BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if you aren't very
>> careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of the door well. It fits
>> all the other cars, though.
>>
>> Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
>> marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
>> 12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
>> original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50.  So unless you are
>> going for Concours save your money.
>>
>> -Roland
>> BN1 #724
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:
>>>
>>> * <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>
>>> <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8
>>> <https://tinyurl.com/y7mpa5j8>*
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> <http://autox.team.net/archive>http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
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>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jun 10 11:03:04 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 17:03:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <3f8b1a5d318f35b4bd2427eae42e2aa3270dcd39@webmail>

Looks like I got "shorted" on my cable. Unfortunately, that was 5
years ago, so I will have to bite the bullet and buy the correct new
one. I guess by now RIW has the correct spec for it. So, it should be
easy to get a replacement 17-1/2" long. I have the hole and the clip
to affix it. Concerned that Roland says that the helmets are not the
"proper" ones. The photo I previously sent, and this picture from
Michael, seem to show the same head reading "Lucas Patented + or -"
What is the proper helmet? I would want the correct items if I go thru
the trouble of getting a longer cable to save a .5 penalty. Due to my
past experience with concours, I will probably never enter this car
anyway...but proper is proper when it comes to making the Healey
appear to be factory correct. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: "John Harper", "Healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 9 2020 4:48:05PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Regarding the Rhode Island battery to battery cable. 
A few years back I encountered the same issue with the battery to
battery cable being too short on a BN1. The one supplied was 15 1/2"
center to center of the terminal caps. 
I contacted R I W and they were very obliging, sent me a replacement
which was 2" longer and indicated that they would amend their
information for future orders.It was plenty long enough. 

I'm sure that if you were to contact them they would be only too happy
to help out.

M

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 4:02 PM  wrote:
John-I never take offence on anything Healey...not too many things
were "standard" as is found on US made cars. The early '53s had lots
of differences (over 50) from later production and BN2s. However,
there is a bolt hole on the rear panel of #588, as you noted, (as seen
here) but the cable supplied by Rhode Island Wiring was not long
enough to connect to that spot. Since the cable came assembled with
the helmets and proper sheathing, I did not want to alter it. I think
the concours hit would be 1/2 point. and as Perry said in the scope of
it all, it probably would not affect winning gold status. Good eye!
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Harper" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net [2]
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 8 2020 11:57:11AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Roland
I hope that you will not take offence with following but I believe
that the linking cable should be held up the middle with a 'P' clip
and a small bolt and nut on the lower lip of the rear of the panel
Best regards
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 18:53,  wrote:
I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain
charge. They no longer make a 17L battery. Now-a-days you can still
purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and
is about 1" taller than the old 17s. Reason why is that VW bugs and
MGBs also used that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the
battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short out
the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than the
17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works as
well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the
battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com
[4]

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roland Wilhelmy" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery
posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can
still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if
you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of
the door well. It fits all the other cars, though. 
Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are
going for Concours save your money. 
-RolandBN1 #724
On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

  [6] [7] [8]HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8 [9] 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [10] [11] [12]http://www.team.net/donate.html [13]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

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 Healeys at autox.team.net [22]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage:  [27] [28]
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 Support Team.Net  [31] [32]http://www.team.net/donate.html [33]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [34] [35]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [36]  [37]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage:  [44]
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-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [47]http://www.team.net/donate.html [48]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [49]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [50] 
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[57]

  

Links:
------
[1] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[2] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[3] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[4] http://healeyhelper.com
[5] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[6] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[7] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[8] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[9] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[10] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jun 10 12:03:22 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 18:03:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <a841324431f929bc34b4be75b96bde2c8e88c72a@webmail>

Further to this email conversation, I contacted Mark Hooper at RIW and
he assures me that the current cables are now 17" in length as a
result of input from customers (thanks, Michael!).
He is going to modify my cable to the correct length, using my
existing helmets. So I will package up the cable and send it off to
him and they will correct it at no additional charge! If you purchased
this item today it would be quite costly but correct in length:
11. Positive Batt.to Negative Batt.Jumper Cable 73.00
These are great folks to work with and are fully committed to produce
the correct items for Austin-Healey restorations. (based on what
records or input they receive). The only difference he mentioned on
the helmets, was that some negative cables had a small drilling mount
that could receive an additional aux. wire. Big Healeys do not use
that mount but they can be found on MK1 Sprites... possibly some of
the cars received that type of connector if supplies ran out during
production.
Thanks for the input from the group to get my cable properly
configured...I never knew it was incorrect until this conversation
took place. We were talking batteries not cables. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: "John Harper", "Healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 9 2020 4:48:05PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Regarding the Rhode Island battery to battery cable. 
A few years back I encountered the same issue with the battery to
battery cable being too short on a BN1. The one supplied was 15 1/2"
center to center of the terminal caps. 
I contacted R I W and they were very obliging, sent me a replacement
which was 2" longer and indicated that they would amend their
information for future orders.It was plenty long enough. 

I'm sure that if you were to contact them they would be only too happy
to help out.

M

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 4:02 PM  wrote:
John-I never take offence on anything Healey...not too many things
were "standard" as is found on US made cars. The early '53s had lots
of differences (over 50) from later production and BN2s. However,
there is a bolt hole on the rear panel of #588, as you noted, (as seen
here) but the cable supplied by Rhode Island Wiring was not long
enough to connect to that spot. Since the cable came assembled with
the helmets and proper sheathing, I did not want to alter it. I think
the concours hit would be 1/2 point. and as Perry said in the scope of
it all, it probably would not affect winning gold status. Good eye!
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Harper" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net [2]
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 8 2020 11:57:11AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Roland
I hope that you will not take offence with following but I believe
that the linking cable should be held up the middle with a 'P' clip
and a small bolt and nut on the lower lip of the rear of the panel
Best regards
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 18:53,  wrote:
I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain
charge. They no longer make a 17L battery. Now-a-days you can still
purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and
is about 1" taller than the old 17s. Reason why is that VW bugs and
MGBs also used that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the
battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short out
the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than the
17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works as
well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the
battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com
[4]

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roland Wilhelmy" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery
posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can
still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if
you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of
the door well. It fits all the other cars, though. 
Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are
going for Concours save your money. 
-RolandBN1 #724
On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

  [6] [7] [8]HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8 [9] 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [10] [11] [12]http://www.team.net/donate.html [13]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [14] [15] [16]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] 
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 Healeys at autox.team.net [22]
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 Suggested annual donation $12.75

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-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [47]http://www.team.net/donate.html [48]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [49]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [50] 
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[57]

  

Links:
------
[1] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[2] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[3] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[4] http://healeyhelper.com
[5] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[6] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[7] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[8] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[9] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[10] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jun 10 15:50:20 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 21:50:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle Cable Conversion
References: <1333576698.2448097.1591825820654.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1333576698.2448097.1591825820654@mail.yahoo.com>

Having a Bugeye with the simplicity of a throttle cable i am tempted by the throttle cable conversions that are sold for my BN2.? Has anyone done this conversion?? How does the throttle switch for the overdrive work after conversion?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 11 10:41:28 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 16:41:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?
Message-ID: <a6121770efd648f0a7aa50c1cf13ded1dc90f869@webmail>

Well, I'm not as stupid as I thought I was...I just went out to my 100
to remove the short battery-to battery cable to return it to RIW for
lengthening. Behold (yesterday's photo), I did in fact add an
extension bracket to the body so that I could keep the cable from
hitting the u-joint. Not sure when I did that, but provision for
safety was made. Meanwhile, the cable is en-route to the harness maker
and the extension removed, with the clip, awaiting the revised
connector. Thanks all, for the input. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: "John Harper", "Healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 9 2020 4:48:05PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Regarding the Rhode Island battery to battery cable. 
A few years back I encountered the same issue with the battery to
battery cable being too short on a BN1. The one supplied was 15 1/2"
center to center of the terminal caps. 
I contacted R I W and they were very obliging, sent me a replacement
which was 2" longer and indicated that they would amend their
information for future orders.It was plenty long enough. 

I'm sure that if you were to contact them they would be only too happy
to help out.

M

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 4:02 PM  wrote:
John-I never take offence on anything Healey...not too many things
were "standard" as is found on US made cars. The early '53s had lots
of differences (over 50) from later production and BN2s. However,
there is a bolt hole on the rear panel of #588, as you noted, (as seen
here) but the cable supplied by Rhode Island Wiring was not long
enough to connect to that spot. Since the cable came assembled with
the helmets and proper sheathing, I did not want to alter it. I think
the concours hit would be 1/2 point. and as Perry said in the scope of
it all, it probably would not affect winning gold status. Good eye!
Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Harper" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net [2]
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 8 2020 11:57:11AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Roland
I hope that you will not take offence with following but I believe
that the linking cable should be held up the middle with a 'P' clip
and a small bolt and nut on the lower lip of the rear of the panel
Best regards
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 18:53,  wrote:
I'm using the concours correct 17L, 6V batteries from Antique auto
battery(now Jim's or NLE)...bought years ago and kept on maintain
charge. They no longer make a 17L battery. Now-a-days you can still
purchase a 19L battery which will fit the tray, has mounting ears, and
is about 1" taller than the old 17s. Reason why is that VW bugs and
MGBs also used that same unit. As Roland says: be sure to insulate the
battery lid with Armacord; if the lid is distorted it could short out
the terminals. Otherwise it fits fine and is more powerful than the
17L. Interstate Battery makes one available today. One 12V works as
well, but you will fail concours (if that's an issue). Here is the
battery layout using original 17Ls in my 100. Hank, healeyhelper.com
[4]

	-----------------------------------------From: "Roland Wilhelmy" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Sunday June 7 2020 8:26:46PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody have experience with this battery?

Check if 8 1/2" is height of case only or height to top of battery
posts. If height to top of posts is 9 and a fraction inches you can
still use in a BN1 or 2 but you risk shorting battery to the body if
you aren't very careful and if you didn't insulate the underside of
the door well. It fits all the other cars, though. 
Also, the capacity of those original style tar tops is limited and
marginal. Modern batteries are much more energetic and smaller, too. A
12volt battery that will fit the battery tray will do better than two
original tar top 6volt batteries and cost about $50. So unless you are
going for Concours save your money. 
-RolandBN1 #724
On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 5:35 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
  I can't find dimensions for 17L anywhere, but this looks close:

  [6] [7] [8]HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8 [9] 
_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [10] [11] [12]http://www.team.net/donate.html [13]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [14] [15] [16]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] 
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 Support Team.Net  [31] [32]http://www.team.net/donate.html [33]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

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-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary 
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Links:
------
[1] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[2] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[3] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[4] http://healeyhelper.com
[5] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[6] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[7] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[8] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[9] http://chtrmail.spectrum.net/HTTPS://TINYURL.COM/Y7MPA5J8
[10] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[11] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[12] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[13] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[14] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[15] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[16] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[17] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[18] http://autox.team.net/archive
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[28]
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[29]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
[31] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[32] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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[40] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net
[41] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[42] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[43] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[44]
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[45]
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[47] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[48] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[49] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[50] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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[55] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[56]
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[57]
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jun 11 10:44:58 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 10:44:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Don't let this one get away!
Message-ID: <8086d198-7150-e0dc-949b-b4af2cd6a86e@bradakis.com>

First off, some man behind the curtain stuff.? Yesterday I had Comcast, 
my service provider, switch out my old cable modem for a faster, wifi 
enabled unit.? At the moment I *think* Team Net is still working as 
usual, no service disruption, email is still flowing.? There could be 
some issues arising later, it might be that the new modem is putting out 
some DNS info that I don't know about that might mess things up, I can't 
say for sure. Tech guy nerd stuff, so don't worry about it if you don't 
know exactly what I am talking about. But trust me, I am keeping a close 
eye on it, we'll see how it goes.? Hopefully you won't be getting a 
message from hoosierq at gmail.com ( that's me ) about doom and gloom from 
Team Net.

On to the subject of this post:

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6481824?ad_cid=1


mjb.



From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 11 14:31:49 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2020 13:31:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Don't let this one get away!
In-Reply-To: <8086d198-7150-e0dc-949b-b4af2cd6a86e@bradakis.com>
References: <8086d198-7150-e0dc-949b-b4af2cd6a86e@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-TC3yHCpgti6x_baVK5dJA113NbwV5uf7rpAuknkgs=g@mail.gmail.com>

Ran when parked ?

Thanks for the geek update

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
59 BN4
67MGB
65 AH Sprite
phone makes it's own choices. Forgive typos

On Thu, Jun 11, 2020, 12:41 PM Mark J Bradakis via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> First off, some man behind the curtain stuff.  Yesterday I had Comcast,
> my service provider, switch out my old cable modem for a faster, wifi
> enabled unit.  At the moment I *think* Team Net is still working as
> usual, no service disruption, email is still flowing.  There could be
> some issues arising later, it might be that the new modem is putting out
> some DNS info that I don't know about that might mess things up, I can't
> say for sure. Tech guy nerd stuff, so don't worry about it if you don't
> know exactly what I am talking about. But trust me, I am keeping a close
> eye on it, we'll see how it goes.  Hopefully you won't be getting a
> message from hoosierq at gmail.com ( that's me ) about doom and gloom from
> Team Net.
>
> On to the subject of this post:
>
> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6481824?ad_cid=1
>
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Jun 11 20:34:04 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 02:34:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [BGEURO] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 For Sale For
 Restoration
In-Reply-To: <CAH=x3NTzBo0bsZvx_f7FUR09rQA2-1GqVwjKTxZpbQbRXv-8TA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH=x3NSNaD5xdoezPw+qvxrZz+s3s=dPGysFjo_HBH3cvb37fQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB2405FD820D470691C347D010BF810@BYAPR15MB2405.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAH=x3NTLX_3u-dpLufDApaj_STR1nn0FcHjMDFsAhsY4fqBDjw@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB2405C7046646508C07893556BF810@BYAPR15MB2405.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAH=x3NTzBo0bsZvx_f7FUR09rQA2-1GqVwjKTxZpbQbRXv-8TA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB24058B0DCF4F0276D92D0508BF810@BYAPR15MB2405.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

FYI from a fellow Healey owner here in Kentucky whom many of you know, Scott Willis:  NFI

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440




On Jun 11, 2020, at 21:04, Scott Willis <healeypowered at gmail.com<mailto:healeypowered at gmail.com>> wrote:

?
Hi all,
I took the MGA down backroads this evening into north TN to meet a lovely British lady named Lynne Smith and to check out her husband's BJ8 that has been on stands for 25-ish years. Her husband Ted had passed away recently and she needs to sell some cars. She also had a 79 T-Bird and I think it's a 2001 Jag S-Type with a new motor.

Here are photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/48gh93efc7u9mxi/AABjbPfsXG9WTpoPV9mPUpbia?dl=0

Her husband said, "Do not sell the Healey for less than $20K" but she said she will take $15K. Here is her email address lynnespearls at aol.com<mailto:lynnespearls at aol.com>. I have her number if you are seriously interested.

I did the magnet test over the steel panels and it is solid. There is a dent on the read fender drive side and there appears to be a small patch of bondo drive side dog leg. It is solid up inside the fenders. The floors have been cut out and the drive side has some new metal but I would pull it and install proper floor pans. Parts that were missing were the wood dash panels and the bumpers. Perhaps he sent those off for restoration. She says there is a lot of paperwork and a clean title that is now in her name. The title says the car was originally green so it appears correct.

Spread the word. This car needs love and needs to get back on the road.

Cheers,
--

Scott Willis

270-535-0187



________________________________

To unsubscribe from the BGEURO list, click the following link:
http://maillist.corvettemuseum.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?SUBED1=BGEURO&A=1


--

Scott Willis




--

Scott Willis


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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Fri Jun 12 09:46:56 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 11:46:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>

I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.  I am new to this BJ8 with
boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.  I don't find any
clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.

When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor.  I am losing
hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that I can
see.  There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel and no
evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate a leak.  I
have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.

Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?  How am I
able to check that out?  If this is the case, can the booster be repaired
by me or someone else, if so, who.  If fluid is leaking into the booster,
is it  better to simply replace the booster and who is a good source?

Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.

Thanks for any help,

Fred
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jun 12 10:14:39 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 09:14:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>

If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you 
will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running 
conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the intake 
manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is the 
'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on the 
servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is activated 
by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the canister to 
assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).

You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully, 
others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of 
success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent) 
replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in' 
replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as 
effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic 
section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake 
cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory 
and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some cogitating 
to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.

If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as mine; I 
have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to check the 
rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had bled them 
before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch somehow on 
the bleed.

Bob


On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to this BJ8 
> with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I don't 
> find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.
>
> When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am losing 
> hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that 
> I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel 
> and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate 
> a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.
>
> Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake booster?? How 
> am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the booster be 
> repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking into 
> the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who is a 
> good source?
>
> Something always?happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Fred
>
>
>


From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Jun 12 10:20:42 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 12:20:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00cc01d640d5$6b6d1150$424733f0$@gmail.com>

Hi Fred ? yes, it can be leaking into the booster. One of the local guys just encountered this on a BJ-8 he is building up?

 

There rebuild kits for the boosters [I believe, someone correct me if I?m wrong], or you could get a new booster.

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 11:47 AM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes

 

I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.  I am new to this BJ8 with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.  I don't find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual. 

 

When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor.  I am losing hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that I can see.  There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate a leak.  I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.

 

Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?  How am I able to check that out?  If this is the case, can the booster be repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.  If fluid is leaking into the booster, is it  better to simply replace the booster and who is a good source?

 

Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Fred

 

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Jun 12 10:32:09 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 12:32:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1591979538.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Fred
Pull the brake booster out. Its time for a rebuild.? I used to use Power Brake Exchange in San Jose Ca when we lived in Hawaii for the booster rebuilds. They are a franchise and there are shops that may be closer to you.? Several little seals in the booster allow the brake fluid to migrate into the pressure canister. That?s were the missing fluid is hiding.
Perry

[Healeys] Brakes

I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to this BJ8 with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I don't find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.?

When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor.? I am losing hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.

Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake booster?? How am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the booster be repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking into the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who is a good source?

Something always?happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.

Thanks for any help,

Fred



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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 12 10:35:27 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 12:35:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>

I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts and
screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
IMHO Bob's  50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your first few
attempts.
Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the dismal
success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly still
available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount brackets and
fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
M

On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
> will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
> conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the intake
> manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is the
> 'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on the
> servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is activated
> by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the canister to
> assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>
> You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
> others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
> success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
> replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in'
> replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
> effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
> section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
> cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory
> and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some cogitating
> to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>
> If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as mine; I
> have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to check the
> rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had bled them
> before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch somehow on
> the bleed.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.  I am new to this BJ8
> > with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.  I don't
> > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.
> >
> > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am losing
> > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that
> > I can see.  There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel
> > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate
> > a leak.  I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.
> >
> > Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?  How
> > am I able to check that out?  If this is the case, can the booster be
> > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.  If fluid is leaking into
> > the booster, is it  better to simply replace the booster and who is a
> > good source?
> >
> > Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny
> weekend.
> >
> > Thanks for any help,
> >
> > Fred
> >
> >
> >
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Jun 12 18:05:29 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 20:05:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>

Charlie--

In cars where CAB's were original, or when Le Mans kits (as opposed simply
to tacking on a CAB) were added the standard support is replaced by one
with a dogleg in it to provide clearance for the box.

I have read of people in your situation simply doing away with the support
but I think that leaves the aluminum susceptible to bending, etc. I don't
know of a source but must imagine that someone can supply one of the dogleg
supports--if not it would not be that hard to fabricate one.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 7:17 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

> I have interference between the cold box and the vertical strut on my 100
>> 4 (see photos). Does anyone know how to fix it? Thanks.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>    Charlie
>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From kags at shaw.ca  Fri Jun 12 18:30:43 2020
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 17:30:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <73244D8C692A4EA285492E38D93318D9@KagsLaptop>

Fred / Bob:

I have to agree with Michael on this ? rebuilding the Girling servo is tricky at best.  Plus, there is always the possibility that the bore in the servo body has enough damage that it would need to be repaired ? sleeved ? which is a complicated job as the bore is stepped.  And you don?t really know it?s needed until it is off the car and apart.

Another diagnostic measure: pull the rear spark plugs - if there is brake fluid being drawn in, they will very white in appearance, depending on the brake fluid (glycol or silicone).

Quite a few us here on the west coast in BC have installed the PBR VH44 servo with great success.  It is a more modern design ? a diaphragm servo, rather than the vacuum piston.  Plus it has a very convenient bleed screw of it?s own ? particularly helpful if DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is being used.  Plus, it doesn?t look too out of place on the Healey, unless you paint it pink! 

I?m sure that a search of the usual Healey parts suppliers will tell you if they are available in North America.  We have dealt with Hydroboost in Australia ? last time we ordered, they supplied fitting kits as well ? a couple of pre-bent brake pipes, a correct vacuum hose (it needs to be about 4 inches longer than the original), and a pair of Kilmartin mounting brackets (they are very close neighbours).

One caution: the PBR VH44 is made in several boost ratios, so pay attention to get the correct version for the Healey.  Check their web-site ? all kinds of interesting information on servos.

Hope this helps.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

From: Michael Salter 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:35 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes

I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo. 
You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little. 
If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
IMHO Bob's  50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your first few attempts.
Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
M

On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you 
  will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running 
  conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the intake 
  manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is the 
  'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on the 
  servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is activated 
  by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the canister to 
  assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).

  You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully, 
  others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of 
  success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent) 
  replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in' 
  replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as 
  effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic 
  section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake 
  cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory 
  and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some cogitating 
  to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.

  If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as mine; I 
  have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to check the 
  rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had bled them 
  before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch somehow on 
  the bleed.

  Bob


  On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
  > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.  I am new to this BJ8 
  > with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.  I don't 
  > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.
  >
  > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am losing 
  > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that 
  > I can see.  There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel 
  > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate 
  > a leak.  I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.
  >
  > Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?  How 
  > am I able to check that out?  If this is the case, can the booster be 
  > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.  If fluid is leaking into 
  > the booster, is it  better to simply replace the booster and who is a 
  > good source?
  >
  > Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.
  >
  > Thanks for any help,
  >
  > Fred
  >
  >
  >

  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Jun 12 19:06:03 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 11:06:03 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Letting you know that the standard support of the carb side was removed completely from the BN3/1 in 1955 by the DHMC to fit the triple DU6 SU carbs and has never been replaced. The aluminium of the shroud has not suffered as a result.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Saturday, 13 June 2020 10:05 AM
To: Charles Schott
Cc: Bruce Peters; Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation

 

Charlie--

 

In cars where CAB's were original, or when Le Mans kits (as opposed simply to tacking on a CAB) were added the standard support is replaced by one with a dogleg in it to provide clearance for the box.  

 

I have read of people in your situation simply doing away with the support but I think that leaves the aluminum susceptible to bending, etc. I don't know of a source but must imagine that someone can supply one of the dogleg supports--if not it would not be that hard to fabricate one. 

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

On Fri, Jun 12, 2020 at 7:17 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

I have interference between the cold box and the vertical strut on my 100 4 (see photos). Does anyone know how to fix it? Thanks. 

 

 

Regards,

 

   Charlie

 


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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Jun 12 19:49:48 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 21:49:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <73244D8C692A4EA285492E38D93318D9@KagsLaptop>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
 <73244D8C692A4EA285492E38D93318D9@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1592012997.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Over the years one thing that became evident to me, that it is best on some parts to have an expert (someone who does these repairs everyday) repair the unit for you. I have had many Girling boosters rebuilt by the vendor I mentioned previously, Power Brake Exchange, and never had an issue with their work. Granted it has been a long while since the last one and I did not check with them before posting this. 
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Earl Kagna
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 8:59 PM
To: Michael Salter; Bob Spidell
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes

Fred / Bob:
?
I have to agree with Michael on this ? rebuilding the Girling servo is tricky at best.? Plus, there is always the possibility that the bore in the servo body has enough damage that it would need to be repaired ? sleeved ? which is a complicated job as the bore is stepped.? And you don?t really know it?s needed until it is off the car and apart.
?
Another diagnostic measure: pull the rear spark plugs - if there is brake fluid being drawn in, they will very white in appearance, depending on the brake fluid (glycol or silicone).
?
Quite a few us here on the west coast in BC have installed the PBR VH44 servo with great success.? It is a more modern design ? a diaphragm servo, rather than the vacuum piston.? Plus it has a very convenient bleed screw of it?s own ? particularly helpful if DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is being used.? Plus, it doesn?t look too out of place on the Healey, unless you paint it pink! 
?
I?m sure that a search of the usual Healey parts suppliers will tell you if they are available in North America.? We have dealt with Hydroboost in Australia ? last time we ordered, they supplied fitting kits as well ? a couple of pre-bent brake pipes, a correct vacuum hose (it needs to be about 4 inches longer than the original), and a pair of Kilmartin mounting brackets (they are very close neighbours).
?
One caution: the PBR VH44 is made in several boost ratios, so pay attention to get the correct version for the Healey.? Check their web-site ? all kinds of interesting information on servos.
?
Hope this helps.
?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
?
From: Michael Salter 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:35 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes
?
I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo. 
You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little. 
If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
IMHO Bob's? 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your first few attempts.
Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
M
?
On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you 
will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running 
conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the intake 
manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is the 
'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on the 
servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is activated 
by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the canister to 
assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).

You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully, 
others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of 
success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent) 
replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in' 
replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as 
effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic 
section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake 
cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory 
and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some cogitating 
to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.

If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as mine; I 
have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to check the 
rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had bled them 
before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch somehow on 
the bleed.

Bob


On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to this BJ8 
> with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I don't 
> find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.
>
> When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am losing 
> hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that 
> I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel 
> and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate 
> a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.
>
> Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?? How 
> am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the booster be 
> repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking into 
> the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who is a 
> good source?
>
> Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Fred
>
>
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Jun 12 21:26:39 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 23:26:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <73244D8C692A4EA285492E38D93318D9@KagsLaptop>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
 <73244D8C692A4EA285492E38D93318D9@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <ABAA5B02-C16A-4AD5-92E6-04B0AFB880A4@rogers.com>

I?ve had the VH44 servo for a long time, and I use Dot 5 fluid.
With all the different arguments about whether Dot 5 is a good idea, I always decided that it was the right solution for me.
I have a firm pedal?no water absorption, and especially no paint removal.
BUT - if the servo began to leak and the fluid was drawn into the manifold, then that would serious. Silicone fluid reduced by high heat is abrasive (sand!) and very bad for the bores.
I won?t give up the Dot 5 , so I gave up my servo. I did change the master cylinder bore size.
I know this may stir some controversy, but it wasn?t a decision made lightly, or quickly.

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 8:30 PM, Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca> wrote:
> 
> Fred / Bob:
>  
> I have to agree with Michael on this ? rebuilding the Girling servo is tricky at best.  Plus, there is always the possibility that the bore in the servo body has enough damage that it would need to be repaired ? sleeved ? which is a complicated job as the bore is stepped.  And you don?t really know it?s needed until it is off the car and apart.
>  
> Another diagnostic measure: pull the rear spark plugs - if there is brake fluid being drawn in, they will very white in appearance, depending on the brake fluid (glycol or silicone).
>  
> Quite a few us here on the west coast in BC have installed the PBR VH44 servo with great success.  It is a more modern design ? a diaphragm servo, rather than the vacuum piston.  Plus it has a very convenient bleed screw of it?s own ? particularly helpful if DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is being used.  Plus, it doesn?t look too out of place on the Healey, unless you paint it pink!
>  
> I?m sure that a search of the usual Healey parts suppliers will tell you if they are available in North America.  We have dealt with Hydroboost in Australia ? last time we ordered, they supplied fitting kits as well ? a couple of pre-bent brake pipes, a correct vacuum hose (it needs to be about 4 inches longer than the original), and a pair of Kilmartin mounting brackets (they are very close neighbours).
>  
> One caution: the PBR VH44 is made in several boost ratios, so pay attention to get the correct version for the Healey.  Check their web-site ? all kinds of interesting information on servos.
>  
> Hope this helps.
>  
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>  
> From: Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:35 AM
> To: Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes
>  
> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
> IMHO Bob's  50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your first few attempts.
> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
> M
>  
> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>> If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you 
>> will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running 
>> conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the intake 
>> manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is the 
>> 'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on the 
>> servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is activated 
>> by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the canister to 
>> assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>> 
>> You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully, 
>> others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of 
>> success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent) 
>> replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in' 
>> replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as 
>> effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic 
>> section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake 
>> cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory 
>> and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some cogitating 
>> to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>> 
>> If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as mine; I 
>> have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to check the 
>> rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had bled them 
>> before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch somehow on 
>> the bleed.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>> > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.  I am new to this BJ8 
>> > with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.  I don't 
>> > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk manual.
>> >
>> > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am losing 
>> > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks that 
>> > I can see.  There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each wheel 
>> > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would indicate 
>> > a leak.  I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid anywhere.
>> >
>> > Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake booster?  How 
>> > am I able to check that out?  If this is the case, can the booster be 
>> > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.  If fluid is leaking into 
>> > the booster, is it  better to simply replace the booster and who is a 
>> > good source?
>> >
>> > Something always happens before what promises to be a great sunny weekend.
>> >
>> > Thanks for any help,
>> >
>> > Fred
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 12 22:55:21 2020
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 04:55:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>

 Charlie?? Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.Hope this helps.
Ray Juncal

    On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:  
 
 




| 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 13 00:34:27 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 23:34:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <972b8e5b-c1c0-d56a-be11-e2a5af0cfea4@comcast.net>

You could always try rebuilding the servo and, if it works, great, if 
not, install the imposter.

I did a lot of research before I rebuilt mine--OK, I read this list and 
a couple forums--and it appeared the most common issue was with the 
vacuum canister. Specifically, the rubber tube that is used to backstop 
the leather seal in the canister was sold too long--intentionally--and 
needed to be trimmed to an appropriate length lest the piston get stuck 
in the canister. Also, the canister is lined with a dry lubricant that 
wears, and I found a suitable replacement (although in hindsight I think 
the original dry lubricant was still serviceable).? It's been a while, 
maybe 10 years, but IIRC the canister had about 150K miles on it, and 
both cylinders on the servo body were in serviceable condition (no 
re-sleeving required). One thing that's hard to replace--Fred, if you 
decide to buy new, I'll pay for shipping if you'll send your valve to 
me--is the vacuum check valve; it's been NLA forever (my car came with a 
plastic aftermarket valve; which looked grossly out of place in my 
engine bay; I got a good used one from BCS).

Perry, I don't think PBE is a franchise; the one-and-only is in San 
Jose, CA. I took the booster for my dad's '46 Chevy 2-ton truck there a 
few years ago; great guys but the shop is an unholy mess (BF 
everywhere). The Hispanic kid that worked on my dad's servo showed me 
his work; he was very proud of it and had a Girling from a Jag apart on 
the bench. The first time my dad tried out the booster he said the 
brakes almost sent him through the windshield. I drove the truck today 
and the brakes still work great. PBE stands behind--or in front?--of 
their work; I got the impression they know that the failure rate is not 
nonexistent.

I haven't found DoT5 to be any more difficult to bleed than glycols, but 
you have to be careful not to aerate it in the process. To be sure, a 
bleeder on the servo would be helpful (as long as it's not like the 
bleeder on the clutch slave).

Bob


On 6/12/2020 9:35 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts 
> and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
> IMHO Bob's? 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your 
> first few attempts.
> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the 
> dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly 
> still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount 
> brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
> M
>
> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
>     will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
>     conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the
>     intake
>     manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is
>     the
>     'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on
>     the
>     servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is
>     activated
>     by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the
>     canister to
>     assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>
>     You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
>     others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
>     success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
>     replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in'
>     replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
>     effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
>     section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
>     cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory
>     and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some
>     cogitating
>     to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>
>     If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as
>     mine; I
>     have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to
>     check the
>     rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had
>     bled them
>     before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch
>     somehow on
>     the bleed.
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>     > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to
>     this BJ8
>     > with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I
>     don't
>     > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk
>     manual.
>     >
>     > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am
>     losing
>     > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks
>     that
>     > I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each
>     wheel
>     > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would
>     indicate
>     > a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid
>     anywhere.
>     >
>     > Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake
>     booster?? How
>     > am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the
>     booster be
>     > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking
>     into
>     > the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who
>     is a
>     > good source?
>     >
>     > Something always?happens before what promises to be a great
>     sunny weekend.
>     >
>     > Thanks for any help,
>     >
>     > Fred
>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Jun 13 03:49:56 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes PBR
Message-ID: <000001d64167$ffc4c1d0$ff4e4570$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

I forget where & with whom this started but, when I installed my PBR, I took
copious notes to which he's welcome. And anyone else for that matter.

I've just been to the garage and looked at my Girling, which was still
working after I rebuilt it. It's actually sitting in the PBR's carton. So,
to the point, the Girling is still attached to its mounting brackets.

Thus, the PBR's brackets bolt straight on as direct replacements to the
Girling's. I don't recall there being any issues beyond the usual
ones..access, not having multi-jointed wrists etcetc.

Simon

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sat Jun 13 03:49:54 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:54 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
 <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA@mail.gmail.com>

Ray

Mine has a different angle bracket fitted. It is about 2 inches wide at the
top where it bolts to the shroud. The upright  support is bent back .

My 100 Le Mans was converted when it was quite young at the factory so it
may be that it was produced by the DHMoC. I have supplied other owners who
were fitting the Le Mans kits with accurate copies.

I don't know how authentic this bracket might be other than it was fitted
when the Le Mans upgrade was carried out at the factory.

Best regards

On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 06:01, Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Charlie
>    Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory
> but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the
> car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel
> well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it
> out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on
> center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it
> for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to
> get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.
> Hope this helps.
> Ray Juncal
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-7651132894096568667_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From jmolewis at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 13 06:00:55 2020
From: jmolewis at yahoo.com (Jeffrey Lewis)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 12:00:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 220
In-Reply-To: <mailman.163.1592041821.28014.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.163.1592041821.28014.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1560252249.243437.1592049655097@mail.yahoo.com>

 Brakes -leak
It sounds to me like you have a leak in the brake Master Cylinder.? Look for brake fluid under the floor mats on the left side of the car.
    On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 06:55:10 AM EDT, <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
??? healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Brakes (Bob Spidell)
? 2. Brakes PBR (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
? 3. Re: Cold Box Installation (John Harper)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 23:34:27 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes
Message-ID: <972b8e5b-c1c0-d56a-be11-e2a5af0cfea4 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

You could always try rebuilding the servo and, if it works, great, if 
not, install the imposter.

I did a lot of research before I rebuilt mine--OK, I read this list and 
a couple forums--and it appeared the most common issue was with the 
vacuum canister. Specifically, the rubber tube that is used to backstop 
the leather seal in the canister was sold too long--intentionally--and 
needed to be trimmed to an appropriate length lest the piston get stuck 
in the canister. Also, the canister is lined with a dry lubricant that 
wears, and I found a suitable replacement (although in hindsight I think 
the original dry lubricant was still serviceable).? It's been a while, 
maybe 10 years, but IIRC the canister had about 150K miles on it, and 
both cylinders on the servo body were in serviceable condition (no 
re-sleeving required). One thing that's hard to replace--Fred, if you 
decide to buy new, I'll pay for shipping if you'll send your valve to 
me--is the vacuum check valve; it's been NLA forever (my car came with a 
plastic aftermarket valve; which looked grossly out of place in my 
engine bay; I got a good used one from BCS).

Perry, I don't think PBE is a franchise; the one-and-only is in San 
Jose, CA. I took the booster for my dad's '46 Chevy 2-ton truck there a 
few years ago; great guys but the shop is an unholy mess (BF 
everywhere). The Hispanic kid that worked on my dad's servo showed me 
his work; he was very proud of it and had a Girling from a Jag apart on 
the bench. The first time my dad tried out the booster he said the 
brakes almost sent him through the windshield. I drove the truck today 
and the brakes still work great. PBE stands behind--or in front?--of 
their work; I got the impression they know that the failure rate is not 
nonexistent.

I haven't found DoT5 to be any more difficult to bleed than glycols, but 
you have to be careful not to aerate it in the process. To be sure, a 
bleeder on the servo would be helpful (as long as it's not like the 
bleeder on the clutch slave).

Bob


On 6/12/2020 9:35 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts 
> and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
> IMHO Bob's? 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your 
> first few attempts.
> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the 
> dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly 
> still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount 
> brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
> M
>
> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>? ? If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
>? ? will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
>? ? conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the
>? ? intake
>? ? manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is
>? ? the
>? ? 'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on
>? ? the
>? ? servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is
>? ? activated
>? ? by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the
>? ? canister to
>? ? assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>
>? ? You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
>? ? others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
>? ? success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
>? ? replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in'
>? ? replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
>? ? effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
>? ? section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
>? ? cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory
>? ? and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some
>? ? cogitating
>? ? to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>
>? ? If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as
>? ? mine; I
>? ? have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to
>? ? check the
>? ? rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had
>? ? bled them
>? ? before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch
>? ? somehow on
>? ? the bleed.
>
>? ? Bob
>
>
>? ? On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>? ? > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to
>? ? this BJ8
>? ? > with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I
>? ? don't
>? ? > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk
>? ? manual.
>? ? >
>? ? > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am
>? ? losing
>? ? > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks
>? ? that
>? ? > I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each
>? ? wheel
>? ? > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would
>? ? indicate
>? ? > a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid
>? ? anywhere.
>? ? >
>? ? > Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake
>? ? booster?? How
>? ? > am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the
>? ? booster be
>? ? > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking
>? ? into
>? ? > the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who
>? ? is a
>? ? > good source?
>? ? >
>? ? > Something always?happens before what promises to be a great
>? ? sunny weekend.
>? ? >
>? ? > Thanks for any help,
>? ? >
>? ? > Fred
>

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:56 +0100
From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes PBR
Message-ID: <000001d64167$ffc4c1d0$ff4e4570$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi,

I forget where & with whom this started but, when I installed my PBR, I took
copious notes to which he's welcome. And anyone else for that matter.

I've just been to the garage and looked at my Girling, which was still
working after I rebuilt it. It's actually sitting in the PBR's carton. So,
to the point, the Girling is still attached to its mounting brackets.

Thus, the PBR's brackets bolt straight on as direct replacements to the
Girling's. I don't recall there being any issues beyond the usual
ones..access, not having multi-jointed wrists etcetc.

Simon

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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:54 +0100
From: John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
To: Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com>
Cc: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, "Patrick & Caroline
??? Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>,? Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
Message-ID:
??? <CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ray

Mine has a different angle bracket fitted. It is about 2 inches wide at the
top where it bolts to the shroud. The upright? support is bent back .

My 100 Le Mans was converted when it was quite young at the factory so it
may be that it was produced by the DHMoC. I have supplied other owners who
were fitting the Le Mans kits with accurate copies.

I don't know how authentic this bracket might be other than it was fitted
when the Le Mans upgrade was carried out at the factory.

Best regards

On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 06:01, Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Charlie
>? ? Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory
> but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the
> car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel
> well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it
> out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on
> center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it
> for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to
> get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.
> Hope this helps.
> Ray Juncal
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-7651132894096568667_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
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-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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------------------------------

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From schottc at knology.net  Sat Jun 13 08:40:16 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:40:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
 <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <469119258.2907541.1592059215278.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Thanks to all that responded. I like Ray Juncal's proposal to fabricate a bracket, so that's what I'll do. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Ray Juncal via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> 
Cc: "Austin Healey" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 11:55:21 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation 


Charlie 
Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear. 
Hope this helps. 
Ray Juncal 

On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: 







	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 13 09:05:33 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 08:05:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <972b8e5b-c1c0-d56a-be11-e2a5af0cfea4@comcast.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6oObTRCZFFgmdnvFMW64oYMNV==9zxDgEGweLPQd796g@mail.gmail.com>
 <951e51e7-77b1-4a88-0721-ca26aa49e901@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJS2N7JExMvwrfwOoq+5DfMO2eWsoki-Rf4uNqU5w4ZKg@mail.gmail.com>
 <972b8e5b-c1c0-d56a-be11-e2a5af0cfea4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <613ceaaf-7626-ff23-8e11-239ee0d5b848@comcast.net>

Perry pointed out to me that PBE also has a shop in Bell Gardens 
(Southern California).

Bob

On 6/12/2020 11:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> You could always try rebuilding the servo and, if it works, great, if 
> not, install the imposter.
>
> I did a lot of research before I rebuilt mine--OK, I read this list 
> and a couple forums--and it appeared the most common issue was with 
> the vacuum canister. Specifically, the rubber tube that is used to 
> backstop the leather seal in the canister was sold too 
> long--intentionally--and needed to be trimmed to an appropriate length 
> lest the piston get stuck in the canister. Also, the canister is lined 
> with a dry lubricant that wears, and I found a suitable replacement 
> (although in hindsight I think the original dry lubricant was still 
> serviceable).? It's been a while, maybe 10 years, but IIRC the 
> canister had about 150K miles on it, and both cylinders on the servo 
> body were in serviceable condition (no re-sleeving required). One 
> thing that's hard to replace--Fred, if you decide to buy new, I'll pay 
> for shipping if you'll send your valve to me--is the vacuum check 
> valve; it's been NLA forever (my car came with a plastic aftermarket 
> valve; which looked grossly out of place in my engine bay; I got a 
> good used one from BCS).
>
> Perry, I don't think PBE is a franchise; the one-and-only is in San 
> Jose, CA. I took the booster for my dad's '46 Chevy 2-ton truck there 
> a few years ago; great guys but the shop is an unholy mess (BF 
> everywhere). The Hispanic kid that worked on my dad's servo showed me 
> his work; he was very proud of it and had a Girling from a Jag apart 
> on the bench. The first time my dad tried out the booster he said the 
> brakes almost sent him through the windshield. I drove the truck today 
> and the brakes still work great. PBE stands behind--or in front?--of 
> their work; I got the impression they know that the failure rate is 
> not nonexistent.
>
> I haven't found DoT5 to be any more difficult to bleed than glycols, 
> but you have to be careful not to aerate it in the process. To be 
> sure, a bleeder on the servo would be helpful (as long as it's not 
> like the bleeder on the clutch slave).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/12/2020 9:35 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
>> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 
>> nuts and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
>> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
>> IMHO Bob's? 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
>> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your 
>> first few attempts.
>> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the 
>> dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly 
>> still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount 
>> brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
>>     will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
>>     conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the
>>     intake
>>     manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this
>>     is the
>>     'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister
>>     on the
>>     servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is
>>     activated
>>     by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the
>>     canister to
>>     assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>>
>>     You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
>>     others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
>>     success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
>>     replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop
>>     in'
>>     replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
>>     effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
>>     section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
>>     cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the
>>     theory
>>     and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some
>>     cogitating
>>     to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>>
>>     If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as
>>     mine; I
>>     have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to
>>     check the
>>     rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had
>>     bled them
>>     before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch
>>     somehow on
>>     the bleed.
>>
>>     Bob
>>
>>
>>     On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>>     > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to
>>     this BJ8
>>     > with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I
>>     don't
>>     > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk
>>     manual.
>>     >
>>     > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am
>>     losing
>>     > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent
>>     leaks that
>>     > I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at
>>     each wheel
>>     > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would
>>     indicate
>>     > a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid
>>     anywhere.
>>     >
>>     > Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake
>>     booster?? How
>>     > am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the
>>     booster be
>>     > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is
>>     leaking into
>>     > the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and
>>     who is a
>>     > good source?
>>     >
>>     > Something always?happens before what promises to be a great
>>     sunny weekend.
>>     >
>>     > Thanks for any help,
>>     >
>>     > Fred
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 13 10:16:03 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 09:16:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention
Message-ID: <2ad27060-e76a-4cc3-1d37-cf13bd4aaeca@comcast.net>

More from Hemmings.
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From healeyray at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 13 10:21:27 2020
From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 16:21:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
 <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1901822905.365437.1592065287773@mail.yahoo.com>

 John?? Would love to see a photo and a dimension or two. This pattern is 2" wide at the shroud attachment and based on photos and the dimensions of the stock bracket. I added the little angle brace which was not on the original part.Ray

    On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 2:50:17 AM PDT, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Ray
Mine has a different?angle bracket fitted. It is about?2 inches wide at the top where?it?bolts to the shroud. The upright? support?is bent back .?
My 100 Le Mans was converted when it was quite?young at the factory so?it may be?that it?was?produced by the DHMoC. I have supplied other owners who were fitting the Le Mans kits with accurate copies.
I don't know how authentic this bracket might be other than it was fitted when the Le Mans upgrade was carried?out at the factory.
Best regards?
On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 06:01, Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 Charlie?? Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.Hope this helps.
Ray Juncal

    On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:  
 
 




| 
 | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |

 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary  
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sat Jun 13 13:04:11 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 20:04:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
In-Reply-To: <1901822905.365437.1592065287773@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7rv6Cu+_UPpXP38dyGo-fa=C=f8reL7tpu1uZOG3EHug@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMSP6V4fEvGPY3S_i9u6mnRNqbufx0OfosDu4==OFY9+w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1161842252.2705678.1592003863502.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAPTa0B5bMbx9MBZYBWSZOVB=EWexY+edRMhBg2Z4MHLLiy_Fzg@mail.gmail.com>
 <008801d6411e$cfd1b620$6f752260$@tpg.com.au>
 <294775692.234307.1592024122511@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1901822905.365437.1592065287773@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxcb9kLv0q-Auu8_drMLBqwYng==B2OQ90pzJe=5bfsY7w@mail.gmail.com>

Ray

I will send you something but it might take a few days to sort it out.

Best wishes

On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 17:21, Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com> wrote:

> John
>    Would love to see a photo and a dimension or two. This pattern is 2"
> wide at the shroud attachment and based on photos and the dimensions of the
> stock bracket. I added the little angle brace which was not on the original
> part.
> Ray
>
> On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 2:50:17 AM PDT, John Harper <
> ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ray
>
> Mine has a different angle bracket fitted. It is about 2 inches wide at
> the top where it bolts to the shroud. The upright  support is bent back .
>
> My 100 Le Mans was converted when it was quite young at the factory so it
> may be that it was produced by the DHMoC. I have supplied other owners who
> were fitting the Le Mans kits with accurate copies.
>
> I don't know how authentic this bracket might be other than it was fitted
> when the Le Mans upgrade was carried out at the factory.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 06:01, Ray Juncal via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Charlie
>    Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory
> but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the
> car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel
> well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it
> out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on
> center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it
> for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to
> get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.
> Hope this helps.
> Ray Juncal
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_8664541882151493463_m_-7651132894096568667_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> --
> Best wishes
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> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>


-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jun 14 10:11:22 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 16:11:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>

What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6? Carbs. Is there? also a Min fuel pressure?Gary Hodson
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jun 14 10:36:22 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 18:36:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6dca239d-3801-6849-640b-4efa29a14444@chello.nl>

The fuel pressure from the original SU pump is 3,8psi.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 14-6-2020 om 18:11 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6? Carbs. Is 
> there? also a Min fuel pressure?
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jun 14 11:27:42 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:27:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1592155666.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Gary
I looked through my info and I could not find guidance as to the max pressure for the float chamber valve to stay seated. That is the only place that the pressure should or would matter. The fuel bowl is not pressurized so the carb jet flow is determined by fuel level in the bowl and velocity of the air flow passed the jet.  The float pushes the needle against the seat and I?m concluding that has to be higher than the max fuel pressure made by the fuel pump, as Kees mentioned, 3.8 PSI. I was about to try and figure the size of the float, leverage of the float arm, etc in order to calculate the pressure at the needle and seat but a little voice suggested that I not venture down that path?.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 12:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure

What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6? Carbs. Is there? also a Min fuel pressure? 
Gary Hodson

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 11:45:29 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:45:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4rZp+a6u2VUtUSk5Pa+WG4Qkj_0d0xEBU6rQ4P8qHQoA@mail.gmail.com>

Gary--

2 to 4 psi is the common wisdom.

That said, I had a set of HS6's on the MGA engine in my (now-gone) Elva
Courier and no amount of fiddling with floats, lid position, etc. would
solve a consistent fuel starvation problem when coming of hard, tight
right-handers under full throttle as in turns 1 at VIR, Summit Point, etc.
 I finally solved the problem by installing a Holly Blue (high-pressure
fuel pump) and reducing pressure via a regulator to about 5.5-6 psi.  Dire
predictions notwithstanding I never had an issue  with the floats' being
overcome by that pressure and causing leaking.

I'm not saying anyone should go to such extremes without a good reason but
I think the "common wisdom" is just that and not always gospel.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 12:27 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6  Carbs. Is
> there  also a Min fuel pressure?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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>
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From jc9821 at msn.com  Sun Jun 14 12:44:53 2020
From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 18:44:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
Message-ID: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>


Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire wheels? Could it do harm?
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jun 14 13:14:18 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:14:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4rZp+a6u2VUtUSk5Pa+WG4Qkj_0d0xEBU6rQ4P8qHQoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4rZp+a6u2VUtUSk5Pa+WG4Qkj_0d0xEBU6rQ4P8qHQoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <988949298.546397.1592162058532@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks for the several comments so far. The background for the inquiry is: A friend has an aftermarket fuel pump that delivers 7-10psi & a pressure regulator set at 2 psi. He also has (3) HS6 carbs. The engine starts, idles & runs fine until he stops & turns off the engine. Like at a gas station. Then upon restarting it runs rough & won't idle unless he pulls the choke partially out, I.E. fast idle, not richer mixture. We assume this is due to heat soaking &/or peculating fuel. I thought raising the pressure might help if the peculating was occurring before the float valve & wanted to know the Max fuel pressure to this model SU. I doubt that it will have any effect. We are also interested in any suggestions you may have. Additional facts:his engine never gets over 190 F when running. He has an electric fan in addition to the original fan. he carbs are not running lean. I am told the timing is correct.?
Thanks,Gary Hodson?



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com; Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 14, 2020 12:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure

Gary--
2 to 4 psi is the common wisdom.??
That said, I had a set of HS6's on the MGA engine in my (now-gone) Elva Courier and?no amount of fiddling with floats, lid position, etc. would solve a consistent fuel starvation problem when coming of?hard, tight right-handers under full throttle as in turns 1 at VIR, Summit Point, etc.? ?I finally solved the?problem by installing?a Holly Blue (high-pressure fuel pump) and reducing pressure via a regulator to about 5.5-6 psi.? Dire predictions notwithstanding I never had an issue? with the floats' being overcome by that pressure and causing leaking.??
I'm not saying anyone should go to such extremes without a good reason but I think the "common wisdom" is just?that and not always gospel.??
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 12:27 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6? Carbs. Is there? also a Min fuel pressure?Gary Hodson_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun 14 13:29:57 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 12:29:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <dca0000f-2866-9509-b0fb-91940fc3d97f@comcast.net>

I can't see any problems, just don't use a really harsh detergent/soap; 
Simple Green, the orange stuff, etc. should be OK. Dry them off well 
after cleaning.

The only issue I had with chrome wires was a cleaning system from Eagle 
available years ago. It was two-part, with a cleaner and a 'neutralizer' 
(indicating the cleaner was either acidic or caustic; I think it was 
acidic). A wheel tuning technician cleaned my wheels with a caustic 
(lye) solution, and chunks of the chrome flaked off. I think it was due 
to the Eagle cleaner, because it became unavailable after a couple years 
but, of course, it could have been from the caustic solution (though he 
did lots of wheels and hadn't had the problem before).

Bob

On 6/14/2020 11:44 AM, John and Judy Carter wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire 
> wheels? Could it do harm?
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>

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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 13:43:27 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 15:43:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>

John and Judy,

For many years I used "painted wheel cleaner" on my painted (BJ7) wires.  I
scrubbed them with a long soft bristle brush and then sprayed them off with
a wide spray (reduced pressure) pressure washer.  Never an issue.

Now, on my BJ8 with chrome wire wheels, I use "Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome
Wheel Cleaner".  You simply spray it on the wheel and then hose it off.
Just a hose and household water pressure.  Once a year I pull each wheel
and check the brakes and the condition of the tires and wheels.  While the
tires are off, I clean both the inside and outside of the wheel with the
Meguiar's and a very soft bristle brush and simply hose them off.  I
watched Allen Hendrix use the Meguiar's when he did my wheels and tires and
it really worked well.  That is the only stuff he uses (I have no
financial interest in Meguiar's or Allen's operation).  I was impressed
with what I saw and it is all I use.  My wheels sparkle and I get comments
on them.

Fred
66 BJ8

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 2:55 PM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com> wrote:

>
>
> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
> wheels? Could it do harm?
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 14:28:09 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:28:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU carb fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4rZp+a6u2VUtUSk5Pa+WG4Qkj_0d0xEBU6rQ4P8qHQoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <914181121.505574.1592151082897.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <914181121.505574.1592151082897@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4rZp+a6u2VUtUSk5Pa+WG4Qkj_0d0xEBU6rQ4P8qHQoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNccR+N3pKCUf0GYnF5bJewZvs6DUcvRC7iOkJwOanHZA@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure if this information will help,  but I had some Sprite racer
friends that were anal about having everything look good.  So they
aligned/oriented the float chamber tops about 90 degrees away from the
factory orientation because they thought it looked better.   As I  recall,
this realignment put the float arms in line with the cars front to back
orientation. This made the floats and float arms react by pivoting in
response to hard braking and/or acceleration and either causing fuel
starvation or flooding.  I don't recall which.  My point being that
apparently float arm orientation can cause some issues.


On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 10:46 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Gary--
>
> 2 to 4 psi is the common wisdom.
>
> That said, I had a set of HS6's on the MGA engine in my (now-gone) Elva
> Courier and no amount of fiddling with floats, lid position, etc. would
> solve a consistent fuel starvation problem when coming of hard, tight
> right-handers under full throttle as in turns 1 at VIR, Summit Point, etc.
>  I finally solved the problem by installing a Holly Blue (high-pressure
> fuel pump) and reducing pressure via a regulator to about 5.5-6 psi.  Dire
> predictions notwithstanding I never had an issue  with the floats' being
> overcome by that pressure and causing leaking.
>
> I'm not saying anyone should go to such extremes without a good reason but
> I think the "common wisdom" is just that and not always gospel.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 12:27 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> What is the Max recommended fuel pressure (psi) for SU HS 6  Carbs. Is
>> there  also a Min fuel pressure?
>> Gary Hodson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 14:30:37 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:30:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>

I would be concerned that water would be blasted through the tiny gaps
around the spokes and into the hubs and rims. Personally, I would be afraid
to chance it.

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
wrote:

>
>
> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
> wheels? Could it do harm?
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 14:35:06 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:35:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPrwzFg0v=zRgKCuduAXDnbP_oBTCuQqSyDo-3Xg_3fmw@mail.gmail.com>

Just re-read your post.  You said "low pressure".  I will now qualify my
answer and say "maybe".

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 1:30 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would be concerned that water would be blasted through the tiny gaps
> around the spokes and into the hubs and rims. Personally, I would be afraid
> to chance it.
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
>> wheels? Could it do harm?
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun 14 14:47:18 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 13:47:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67c8d350-b699-4000-9715-5c2c6dd5159e@comcast.net>

Ah ... I ASSUMEd the wheels were off the car :(


On 6/14/2020 1:30 PM, richard mayor wrote:
> I would be concerned that water would be blasted through the tiny gaps 
> around the spokes and into the hubs and rims. Personally, I would be 
> afraid to chance it.
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com 
> <mailto:jc9821 at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>     Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome
>     wire wheels? Could it do harm?
>
>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>     for Windows 10
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rv9aplane at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 15:36:24 2020
From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 14:36:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Perry Small
Message-ID: <BB941533-1DE0-4115-A83B-8F049545B847@gmail.com>

Perry,
Check your email, I sent you something a few weeks ago.

Bruce

Sent from my iPhone

From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 14 20:59:54 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 22:59:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <67c8d350-b699-4000-9715-5c2c6dd5159e@comcast.net>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqNzVZe1UHdaTuntZDKnA5SF5o8yh4xQ9W+sBktoKHd-3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <67c8d350-b699-4000-9715-5c2c6dd5159e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAH1MS-8Uh8XvJnOYHudR1AaQQcCtk=rmjN-oTFBNj+wRWx_3AQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've used a high power washer (3500psi...or so it claims) without problem.
But once I discovered Maguire's wire wheel spray, I've been using that with
a little spray from my water hose.  The concern expressed about water
getting past the spoke holes into the hub wouldn't bother me much.  On the
other hand, water getting past the spoke holes into the tire could be a
catastrophe for tubeless tires.   Those spoke ends have a "dab" of silicone
applied to prevent air leaks.  With enough high pressure, the silicone
might become compromised.   If you are running innertubes, then water
leaking past the chrome spokes might be tolerable, but I wouldn't recommend
it.   Give the chrome wire wheel cleanser a try.  Best wishes.


On Sun, Jun 14, 2020, 16:57 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Ah ... I ASSUMEd the wheels were off the car :(
>
>
> On 6/14/2020 1:30 PM, richard mayor wrote:
>
> I would be concerned that water would be blasted through the tiny gaps
> around the spokes and into the hubs and rims. Personally, I would be afraid
> to chance it.
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
>> wheels? Could it do harm?
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun 14 22:16:06 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2020 21:16:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0c9a01d642cb$b122cad0$13686070$@roadrunner.com>

For a light cleaning, I?ve used either Meguiar?s or Mother?s detailing spray on a microfiber rag for a quick wipe down.  When I need a more thorough cleaning, I pull them off and use Simple Green for stubborn brake dust, usually on the inside of the wheel, then Never Dull.  It?s pretty labor intensive, though I?ve gotten it down to around 20 minutes per wheel with using Slick Stixxx (aka Pimp Stixxx) from 40-45 minutes.  The Never Dull lasts quite a while and I like not having to rinse the wheels with water.  

 

Regarding rinsing with water, one guy in the So Cal Healey club mixes up a dilute solution of Jet Dry and water, and sprays it on his wheels after cleaning to prevent water spotting on the chrome.  Haven?t tried it personally, but an interesting idea.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 12:43 PM
To: John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels

 

John and Judy,

 

For many years I used "painted wheel cleaner" on my painted (BJ7) wires.  I scrubbed them with a long soft bristle brush and then sprayed them off with a wide spray (reduced pressure) pressure washer.  Never an issue.

 

Now, on my BJ8 with chrome wire wheels, I use "Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Wheel Cleaner".  You simply spray it on the wheel and then hose it off.  Just a hose and household water pressure.  Once a year I pull each wheel and check the brakes and the condition of the tires and wheels.  While the tires are off, I clean both the inside and outside of the wheel with the Meguiar's and a very soft bristle brush and simply hose them off.  I watched Allen Hendrix use the Meguiar's when he did my wheels and tires and it really worked well.  That is the only stuff he uses (I have no financial interest in Meguiar's or Allen's operation).  I was impressed with what I saw and it is all I use.  My wheels sparkle and I get comments on them.

 

Fred

66 BJ8

 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 2:55 PM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com <mailto:jc9821 at msn.com> > wrote:

 

Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire wheels? Could it do harm? 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jun 15 05:37:12 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 07:37:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention
In-Reply-To: <2ad27060-e76a-4cc3-1d37-cf13bd4aaeca@comcast.net>
References: <2ad27060-e76a-4cc3-1d37-cf13bd4aaeca@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1652857743.19154359.1592221032930.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Where was the Henry J?

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 12:16:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Mention

More from Hemmings.


From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jun 15 09:31:29 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 11:31:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfxY=QqkCjArp5KX=qGqqCC5-2z-xRW2O0pTaozYyiP+Q@mail.gmail.com>

I also use Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Wheel Cleaner on my Dayton stainless
wheels based on Allen's recommendation.  It works great.  I also use
Meguiar's Hot Rimbor.s All Wheel Cleaner on the painted wires on my Bugeye,
which also works without hours of labor.  Neither has harmed either finish.

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville


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On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 3:53 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> John and Judy,
>
> For many years I used "painted wheel cleaner" on my painted (BJ7) wires.
> I scrubbed them with a long soft bristle brush and then sprayed them off
> with a wide spray (reduced pressure) pressure washer.  Never an issue.
>
> Now, on my BJ8 with chrome wire wheels, I use "Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome
> Wheel Cleaner".  You simply spray it on the wheel and then hose it off.
> Just a hose and household water pressure.  Once a year I pull each wheel
> and check the brakes and the condition of the tires and wheels.  While the
> tires are off, I clean both the inside and outside of the wheel with the
> Meguiar's and a very soft bristle brush and simply hose them off.  I
> watched Allen Hendrix use the Meguiar's when he did my wheels and tires and
> it really worked well.  That is the only stuff he uses (I have no
> financial interest in Meguiar's or Allen's operation).  I was impressed
> with what I saw and it is all I use.  My wheels sparkle and I get comments
> on them.
>
> Fred
> 66 BJ8
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 2:55 PM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
>> wheels? Could it do harm?
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Mon Jun 15 09:42:40 2020
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 08:42:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning wire wheels
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfxY=QqkCjArp5KX=qGqqCC5-2z-xRW2O0pTaozYyiP+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MW3PR13MB4153FF332B92BA1CE6896B7DCE9F0@MW3PR13MB4153.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPAC+V5_F8yjMMzLR3MPhjS5+cB-3ZyyX405GW_n-_EnKbD9+A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZfxY=QqkCjArp5KX=qGqqCC5-2z-xRW2O0pTaozYyiP+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw9AK758UF-tu4En=zEda8Q3-6m0Gegt7PUNUzC0fQue-Q@mail.gmail.com>

That's what I use too. Spray on, rinse off.  Ten minutes and done

Mark Fawcett

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 8:33 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> I also use Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome Wheel Cleaner on my Dayton stainless
> wheels based on Allen's recommendation.  It works great.  I also use
> Meguiar's Hot Rimbor.s All Wheel Cleaner on the painted wires on my Bugeye,
> which also works without hours of labor.  Neither has harmed either finish.
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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> <#m_240268814669491333_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 3:53 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> John and Judy,
>>
>> For many years I used "painted wheel cleaner" on my painted (BJ7) wires.
>> I scrubbed them with a long soft bristle brush and then sprayed them off
>> with a wide spray (reduced pressure) pressure washer.  Never an issue.
>>
>> Now, on my BJ8 with chrome wire wheels, I use "Meguiar's Hot Rims Chrome
>> Wheel Cleaner".  You simply spray it on the wheel and then hose it off.
>> Just a hose and household water pressure.  Once a year I pull each wheel
>> and check the brakes and the condition of the tires and wheels.  While the
>> tires are off, I clean both the inside and outside of the wheel with the
>> Meguiar's and a very soft bristle brush and simply hose them off.  I
>> watched Allen Hendrix use the Meguiar's when he did my wheels and tires and
>> it really worked well.  That is the only stuff he uses (I have no
>> financial interest in Meguiar's or Allen's operation).  I was impressed
>> with what I saw and it is all I use.  My wheels sparkle and I get comments
>> on them.
>>
>> Fred
>> 66 BJ8
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 2:55 PM John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone ever used a low pressure power washer to clean chrome wire
>>> wheels? Could it do harm?
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mkgoodman at att.net  Mon Jun 15 17:51:35 2020
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2020 19:51:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel cleaning
References: <6D03069D-E47A-4B8C-8A57-464E39789217.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <6D03069D-E47A-4B8C-8A57-464E39789217@att.net>

I would be careful about using Meguires Hot Wheels or Chrome Wheel cleaners.  I had several spokes break after using them for over 10 years.  Now I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner and it is not Too acidic and will not cause hydrogen embrittlement which will cause the spokes to break.  It does a great job also!!!

Mark Goodman

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jun 16 10:33:47 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 12:33:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1592325239.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Had an interesting request and I would like input from the list.  Has anyone had experience with fitting an automatic transmission behind a AH 6 cylinder?  I know it sounds counter to the normal sports car image but some times you just don?t have the ?body? parts to use a left pedal. The MGC with the Borg Warner trans comes to mind but those units are very heavy and antiquated, and not well received buy the buyers back in 1967. Probably best if the trans was not tied to a computer for shifts and control, so looking for your experience and knowledge.
Thanks
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jun 16 12:45:15 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 19:45:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay
Message-ID: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I have often lingered over the idea of buying a 3000 engine to rebuild. More
or less as a challenge/hobby. And to teach myself how to do it.ie to move
from theory into practise. But these engines are not cheap and they're not
getting any cheaper.

So - and I'd be obliged if you all forebore the temptation to buy it! - this
is currently on UK eBay. I just don't know enough to judge it. Getting those
pistons out seems to have involved something fairly drastic. (Good old
Amatol perhaps?)

Does anyone have any advice..? Is this a "Don't touch it with a barge pole.
It's probably wrecked." Or "Could be a good cheap start point to an
expensive project". Or what......

 

 
<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/12422
3152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/124223
152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Simon

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 16 13:28:14 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 12:28:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans
In-Reply-To: <20200616190409.3680EA0B13@autox.team.net>
References: <20200616190409.3680EA0B13@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88J-gzw94BfJydC5Xnsy0=3V4+BmBgPw1kuAtu40-Mq=Q@mail.gmail.com>

I gave this some thought a few years back when my left knee was in need of
a rebuild.
These were my thoughts at the time:
 The smitty bellhousing would fit a Toyota celica/Supra Auto transmission.
They are still plentiful in wrecking yards as are the coolers and other
hardware. MGC's with auto were pretty rare and as stated, not really great.
Perry,
 let me know what you figure out, my hips are th next in need of a rebuild
:(
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 12:04 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Had an interesting request and I would like input from the list.  Has
> anyone had experience with fitting an automatic transmission behind a AH 6
> cylinder?  I know it sounds counter to the normal sports car image but some
> times you just don?t have the ?body? parts to use a left pedal. The MGC
> with the Borg Warner trans comes to mind but those units are very heavy and
> antiquated, and not well received buy the buyers back in 1967. Probably
> best if the trans was not tied to a computer for shifts and control, so
> looking for your experience and knowledge.
>
> Thanks
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jun 16 14:18:37 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 16:18:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay
In-Reply-To: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1592338723.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Simon
Only had to look at the first photo to make a recommendation.  If you what to learn how to rebuild any item, its best to take it apart. An engine that has been dismantled by someone else removes the grade school and middle school learning experience and you have to jump into high school, maybe university, depending what you are rebuilding.
Just my 2 cents (US of course)
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 4:00 PM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay

I have often lingered over the idea of buying a 3000 engine to rebuild. More or less as a challenge/hobby. And to teach myself how to do it?ie to move from theory into practise. But these engines are not cheap and they?re not getting any cheaper.
So ? and I?d be obliged if you all forebore the temptation to buy it! ? this is currently on UK eBay. I just don?t know enough to judge it. Getting those pistons out seems to have involved something fairly drastic. (Good old Amatol perhaps?)
Does anyone have any advice??? Is this a ?Don?t touch it with a barge pole. It?s probably wrecked.? Or ?Could be a good cheap start point to an expensive project?. Or what????..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/124223152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Simon


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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jun 16 15:11:06 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 23:11:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay
In-Reply-To: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <7524e417-097e-9f20-085a-81ec2b7f1d46@chello.nl>

Do not see any reason why not. The engine is not hugely expensive (at 
the moment). It is a simple engine to rebuild. Parts are available. Do 
check though if the engine has been rebored or not. It may have to be 
sleeved.

Rebuilding an engine gives great satisfaction.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-6-2020 om 20:45 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> I have often lingered over the idea of buying a 3000 engine to 
> rebuild. More or less as a challenge/hobby. And to teach myself how to 
> do it?ie to move from theory into practise. But these engines are not 
> cheap and they?re not getting any cheaper.
>
> So ? and I?d be obliged if you all forebore the temptation to buy it! 
> ? this is currently on UK eBay. I just don?t know enough to judge it. 
> Getting those pistons out seems to have involved something fairly 
> drastic. (Good old Amatol perhaps?)
>
> Does anyone have any advice??? Is this a ?Don?t touch it with a barge 
> pole. It?s probably wrecked.? Or ?Could be a good cheap start point to 
> an expensive project?. Or what????..
>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/124223152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Tue Jun 16 15:23:40 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 22:23:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay
In-Reply-To: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000301d6440e$488cdb70$d9a69250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <007201d64424$67d82be0$378883a0$@btinternet.com>

Looks more or less complete.

 

Minimum costs will be:  clean block and resin seal (?200); rebore; regrind
crank  (?690 for both in Dec 2018);  new brgs, including camshaft if you
have dipped the block; new pistons;  head work to make it suitable for
unleaded fuel (I estimated ?1,000 minimum for this, but forked out for an
aluminium head); new oil pump (DWR about ?180+VAT).  The rocker shaft is
expensive to fix properly ? labour cost to ream the bushes.  You will
probably need a camshaft (?500+ depending upon what you buy);  rear crank
oil seal (?45 +VAT, but machine shop to fit properly);  then of course you
will need timing chain (don?t buy an ?8 one), all gaskets, clutch, and
whatever else is knackered.  The distributor is not shown in the photos, nor
is the distributor tower.  The latter could be difficult to source.  Some
prices include VAT, some do not.

 

For those in the USA, VAT is Value Added Tax, levied at 20% for sales within
the UK.  Exports are exempt, so you do not pay it.

 

Payen gaskets are no longer available from the specialists, but they are
still in the supply chain.  Ask an engine builder to find a head gasket.  I
bought four, and was offered seven more!  The special gaskets available now
are very expensive.

 

Pistons are interesting.  I don?t know from where they come nowadays, but
Ahead4Healeys and AH Spares show an additional oil ring at the bottom which
was not on my original pistons, or the ones in the photos.  I bought Omega
pistons from Denis Welch.  ?800+VAT.  However standard pistons are around
?225+VAT.  The sum of the width of all standard piston rings is around 9.8
mm per piston.  For the Omega pistons this is 3.2mm.  Since piston friction
is 20% of engine friction, this represents a reduction of about 13% of total
engine friction, which could be up to 10bhp at max power.  Omega pistons are
also 16% lighter than standard.

 

Just my thoughts.  I am currently putting my engine together, so all of the
costs are impressed upon my brain and my bank account.

 

Simon, I believe that you are in the UK from previous posts.  Contact me for
more info if you wish.

 

Ian

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: 16 June 2020 19:45
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 engine on eBay

 

I have often lingered over the idea of buying a 3000 engine to rebuild. More
or less as a challenge/hobby. And to teach myself how to do it
ie to move
from theory into practise. But these engines are not cheap and they?re not
getting any cheaper.

So ? and I?d be obliged if you all forebore the temptation to buy it! ? this
is currently on UK eBay. I just don?t know enough to judge it. Getting those
pistons out seems to have involved something fairly drastic. (Good old
Amatol perhaps?)

Does anyone have any advice

? Is this a ?Don?t touch it with a barge pole.
It?s probably wrecked.? Or ?Could be a good cheap start point to an
expensive project?. Or what



..

 

 
<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/12422
3152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-Engine-would-suit-100-6/124223
152808?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Simon

 

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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Jun 16 17:21:00 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2020 23:21:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans
In-Reply-To: <20200616190343.35554A0D01@autox.team.net>
References: <20200616190343.35554A0D01@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR15MB1847498ADEE30FCC0799ABFDA59D0@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Some of the smaller Asian cars might be a source. A lot of Healeyd are running with their 5 speeds...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 4:33 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans


Had an interesting request and I would like input from the list.  Has anyone had experience with fitting an automatic transmission behind a AH 6 cylinder?  I know it sounds counter to the normal sports car image but some times you just don?t have the ?body? parts to use a left pedal. The MGC with the Borg Warner trans comes to mind but those units are very heavy and antiquated, and not well received buy the buyers back in 1967. Probably best if the trans was not tied to a computer for shifts and control, so looking for your experience and knowledge.

Thanks

Perry



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Jun 16 19:01:54 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2020 11:01:54 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans
In-Reply-To: <20200616190336.9D2B4A0CD6@autox.team.net>
References: <20200616190336.9D2B4A0CD6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00a601d64442$e544ccf0$afce66d0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

That brought back a few memories.

 

It was either in the late 1960s or early ?70s before I bought my first 100 and I was walking along the road fronting Bondi Beach in Sydney when I saw a parked 100 with its bonnet open. While I didn?t know a huge amount about Austin-Healeys at the time I did know that they were not fitted with a Chrysler slant six-cylinder engine complete with a push-button automatic controls on the dash.

 

In 1977 when DMH was in Australia I talked to him about the BN3 and during the conversation the subject moved to the automatic gearbox they tested in the car. I have no idea what gearbox was tested and the car was subsequently fitted with a 100S box with an overdrive.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 17 June 2020 2:34 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 with auto trans

 

Had an interesting request and I would like input from the list.  Has anyone had experience with fitting an automatic transmission behind a AH 6 cylinder?  I know it sounds counter to the normal sports car image but some times you just don?t have the ?body? parts to use a left pedal. The MGC with the Borg Warner trans comes to mind but those units are very heavy and antiquated, and not well received buy the buyers back in 1967. Probably best if the trans was not tied to a computer for shifts and control, so looking for your experience and knowledge.

Thanks

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From 67healey at gmail.com  Thu Jun 18 10:07:36 2020
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 09:07:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
In-Reply-To: <605901d612d2$9a25a9c0$ce70fd40$@roadrunner.com>
References: <0vx4byi5py8nqp9y14u0ft0m.1586816340107@email.android.com>
 <00ac01d61200$366188f0$a3249ad0$@sympatico.ca>
 <1221361712.188240.1586866704053@mail.yahoo.com>
 <607605601.480594.1586891100805@mail.yahoo.com>
 <605901d612d2$9a25a9c0$ce70fd40$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz1_NhWNdHpqtPfUBQZm5XJ3E7DYoCaap6oTLYSOx-MTKJg@mail.gmail.com>

I thought I should just give one final update on my speedo repair
experience to share with the list.
Based on this thread, I contacted both Nisonger & Foreign Speedo (that
Micheal recommended). I explained what the issues I knew were with my
speedo, including a broken pointer needle, and asked 2 basic questions:
What would be a rough time frame for having the speedo repaired?; What
would be a rough estimate? The results were very eye opening to say the
least!
Nisongers' response: 4 - 6 weeks, $185 to open the speedo & basic service +
cost of any required parts (pointer = $25)
Foreign Speedo's response: 2 weeks, $125 to open the speedo & full
service + the cost of any required parts (pointer = $18)
Needless to say, I decided to go with Foreign Speedo, and I am sure glad I
did. They basically had to replace *everything* inside the speedo except
the odometer assembly! and the total bill was just slightly more than what
it would have cost for the basic service from Nisonger + pointer!
Once I finally got the speedo back (USPS "lost" it for over a month - but
that's another story :-( ), it was perfect. However, what really set
Foregin Speedo apart was their after sales service. After re-installing the
speedo, the cable was only turning intermittently. Preston @ Foreign Speedo
correctly diagnosed it as the original angle drive, which they also repair.
Unfortunately from my USPS experience, I didn't want to have the
possibility of the same thing happening again, so Preston talked me through
how to fix it myself! Then, completely unexpectedly, a few days later I
received a brand new input shaft for the angle drive from them!
Oh, and did I mention that the actual repair only took a little over a week?
If only I had more speedos to repair, Foreign Speedo would get all my
business.
Service like this is very hard to find these days, so help support the
"little guy" - you won't be sorry!

[image: 20200522_125147.jpg]

[image: 20200618_070848.jpg]

On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 8:05 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> They?ve done my gauges as well.  No complaints.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> MacLean
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 14, 2020 12:05 PM
> *To:* m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net; warthodson at aol.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
>
>
>
> I recently had a speedo and tach from my MGB GT and my Bugeye tach and
> speedo rebuilt by Foreign Speedo in San Diego.  They do exceptional work at
> very resaonable prices.  No financial interest, just a very satisfied
> customer.
>
> http://www.foreignspeedoinc.com/
>
>
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, 5:33:27 AM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I have had all my BJ8 instruments serviced by them & am very satisfied
> with their work, too.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
> To: 'Healey Email list' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 8:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
>
> I have used Nisongers a couple of times and have been happy with their
> work.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20>http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Jun 18 10:53:04 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 09:53:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1_NhWNdHpqtPfUBQZm5XJ3E7DYoCaap6oTLYSOx-MTKJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0vx4byi5py8nqp9y14u0ft0m.1586816340107@email.android.com>
 <00ac01d61200$366188f0$a3249ad0$@sympatico.ca>
 <1221361712.188240.1586866704053@mail.yahoo.com>
 <607605601.480594.1586891100805@mail.yahoo.com>
 <605901d612d2$9a25a9c0$ce70fd40$@roadrunner.com>
 <CAFbzz1_NhWNdHpqtPfUBQZm5XJ3E7DYoCaap6oTLYSOx-MTKJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <070601d64590$ef56d220$ce047660$@roadrunner.com>

I?ve worked with Preston at Foreign Speedo several times.  They?ve been great to work with.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2020 9:08 AM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration

 

I thought I should just give one final update on my speedo repair experience to share with the list.

Based on this thread, I contacted both Nisonger & Foreign Speedo (that Micheal recommended). I explained what the issues I knew were with my speedo, including a broken pointer needle, and asked 2 basic questions: What would be a rough time frame for having the speedo repaired?; What would be a rough estimate? The results were very eye opening to say the least!

Nisongers' response: 4 - 6 weeks, $185 to open the speedo & basic service + cost of any required parts (pointer = $25)

Foreign Speedo's response: 2 weeks, $125 to open the speedo & full service + the cost of any required parts (pointer = $18)

Needless to say, I decided to go with Foreign Speedo, and I am sure glad I did. They basically had to replace everything inside the speedo except the odometer assembly! and the total bill was just slightly more than what it would have cost for the basic service from Nisonger + pointer!

Once I finally got the speedo back (USPS "lost" it for over a month - but that's another story :-( ), it was perfect. However, what really set Foregin Speedo apart was their after sales service. After re-installing the speedo, the cable was only turning intermittently. Preston @ Foreign Speedo correctly diagnosed it as the original angle drive, which they also repair. Unfortunately from my USPS experience, I didn't want to have the possibility of the same thing happening again, so Preston talked me through how to fix it myself! Then, completely unexpectedly, a few days later I received a brand new input shaft for the angle drive from them!

Oh, and did I mention that the actual repair only took a little over a week?

If only I had more speedos to repair, Foreign Speedo would get all my business.

Service like this is very hard to find these days, so help support the "little guy" - you won't be sorry!

 



 



 

On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 8:05 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

They?ve done my gauges as well.  No complaints.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 12:05 PM
To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> ; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> ; warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration

 

I recently had a speedo and tach from my MGB GT and my Bugeye tach and speedo rebuilt by Foreign Speedo in San Diego.  They do exceptional work at very resaonable prices.  No financial interest, just a very satisfied customer.

http://www.foreignspeedoinc.com/

 

Mike MacLean

 

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, 5:33:27 AM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

 

 

I have had all my BJ8 instruments serviced by them & am very satisfied with their work, too. 

Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca <mailto:m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> >
To: 'Healey Email list' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 8:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration

I have used Nisongers a couple of times and have been happy with their work.

 

Mirek

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20> http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From Gmari2 at verizon.net  Thu Jun 18 16:11:04 2020
From: Gmari2 at verizon.net (George Marinos)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 18:11:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1_NhWNdHpqtPfUBQZm5XJ3E7DYoCaap6oTLYSOx-MTKJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_NhWNdHpqtPfUBQZm5XJ3E7DYoCaap6oTLYSOx-MTKJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AFA07BB2-F86E-465A-B882-2D0C29F60C01@verizon.net>

Thanks for the testimonial.  Nisongers is an easy drive for me and have been to their shop many times over the years.   The end of your story however was very impressive and warrants due consideration.  
George

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Healey <67healey at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I thought I should just give one final update on my speedo repair experience to share with the list.
> Based on this thread, I contacted both Nisonger & Foreign Speedo (that Micheal recommended). I explained what the issues I knew were with my speedo, including a broken pointer needle, and asked 2 basic questions: What would be a rough time frame for having the speedo repaired?; What would be a rough estimate? The results were very eye opening to say the least!
> Nisongers' response: 4 - 6 weeks, $185 to open the speedo & basic service + cost of any required parts (pointer = $25)
> Foreign Speedo's response: 2 weeks, $125 to open the speedo & full service + the cost of any required parts (pointer = $18)
> Needless to say, I decided to go with Foreign Speedo, and I am sure glad I did. They basically had to replace everything inside the speedo except the odometer assembly! and the total bill was just slightly more than what it would have cost for the basic service from Nisonger + pointer!
> Once I finally got the speedo back (USPS "lost" it for over a month - but that's another story :-( ), it was perfect. However, what really set Foregin Speedo apart was their after sales service. After re-installing the speedo, the cable was only turning intermittently. Preston @ Foreign Speedo correctly diagnosed it as the original angle drive, which they also repair. Unfortunately from my USPS experience, I didn't want to have the possibility of the same thing happening again, so Preston talked me through how to fix it myself! Then, completely unexpectedly, a few days later I received a brand new input shaft for the angle drive from them!
> Oh, and did I mention that the actual repair only took a little over a week?
> If only I had more speedos to repair, Foreign Speedo would get all my business.
> Service like this is very hard to find these days, so help support the "little guy" - you won't be sorry!
> 
> <20200522_125147.jpg>
> 
> 
> <20200618_070848.jpg>
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 8:05 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
>> They?ve done my gauges as well.  No complaints.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bruce Steele
>> 
>> Brea, CA
>> 
>> 1960 BN7
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 12:05 PM
>> To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca; healeys at autox.team.net; warthodson at aol.com
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I recently had a speedo and tach from my MGB GT and my Bugeye tach and speedo rebuilt by Foreign Speedo in San Diego.  They do exceptional work at very resaonable prices.  No financial interest, just a very satisfied customer.
>> 
>> http://www.foreignspeedoinc.com/
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike MacLean
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, 5:33:27 AM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have had all my BJ8 instruments serviced by them & am very satisfied with their work, too.
>> 
>> Gary Hodson
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
>> To: 'Healey Email list' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 8:58 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Instrument Restoration
>> 
>> I have used Nisongers a couple of times and have been happy with their work.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mirek
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donatehtml
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jun 18 13:11:33 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 15:11:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Retirement
References: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A@aol.com>

Good thing about being retired is being able to sit back and enjoy some of the things that brought a smile to your face in years gone by. Hung a business sign the other day that reminds me of the many folks that we came in contact with due to those funny little British cars we love. 
Hope everyone is doing well
Perry

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Sent from my iPhone

From linwoodrose at mac.com  Thu Jun 18 17:00:59 2020
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 19:00:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Retirement
In-Reply-To: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A@aol.com>
References: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1BEFC897-976F-4BE9-980C-2704E424440E@mac.com>

Very cool, Perry!
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 18, 2020, at 6:16 PM, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Good thing about being retired is being able to sit back and enjoy some of the things that brought a smile to your face in years gone by. Hung a business sign the other day that reminds me of the many folks that we came in contact with due to those funny little British cars we love. 
> Hope everyone is doing well
> Perry
> 
> <IMG_6662.JPG>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_6660.JPG>
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com
> 

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun 18 17:05:48 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 19:05:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Retirement
In-Reply-To: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A@aol.com>
References: <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A.ref@aol.com>
 <FCD38DED-1918-4834-82F8-CC6B5727433A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+bWo8sM6uOL3YDGhFErN8-uDyJM1gWW06G9jhKJCZOMg@mail.gmail.com>

Absolutely dead on Perry. I'm finding that doing the occasional job without
deadlines or the phone ringing off the wall all day has brought back all
the enjoyment.
Stay safe  ... really looking forward to seeing you both again before too
long.

On Thu., Jun. 18, 2020, 6:15 p.m. Perry Small via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Good thing about being retired is being able to sit back and enjoy some of
> the things that brought a smile to your face in years gone by. Hung a
> business sign the other day that reminds me of the many folks that we came
> in contact with due to those funny little British cars we love.
> Hope everyone is doing well
> Perry
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 19 08:03:00 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 10:03:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear fender beadings.
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKL1_g4UOs8c=KKWEYSZpdZquRe55bdvfvMUmVyFVwTYA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm working on installing a set of cockpit combings and am uncertain about
the intersection of the combings with the front end of the fender beadings.
I had always thought that the beadings just butted up to the combings but,
upon examining several original beadings I have found several where the end
of the beading has been flattened so that it will nest under the combing.
Anyone know how these were originally for sure?
Thanks.

M
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From cynicbass at gmail.com  Fri Jun 19 08:38:21 2020
From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn)
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 14:38:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear fender beadings.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKL1_g4UOs8c=KKWEYSZpdZquRe55bdvfvMUmVyFVwTYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKL1_g4UOs8c=KKWEYSZpdZquRe55bdvfvMUmVyFVwTYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7A4EB13-51E5-41AA-B902-E738A4D5B779@gmail.com>

Hi Michael, 
Here is a photo of my BN2 with the cockpit combing lifted up to see the end of the beading.

Best regards from a covid free Iceland, until those tourist start to return!!

Richard



> On Jun 19, 2020, at 14:03, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I'm working on installing a set of cockpit combings and am uncertain about the intersection of the combings with the front end of the fender beadings. 
> I had always thought that the beadings just butted up to the combings but, upon examining several original beadings I have found several where the end of the beading has been flattened so that it will nest under the combing. 
> Anyone know how these were originally for sure?
> Thanks.
> 
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 19 10:58:39 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 12:58:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear brake adjuster
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKjp3WAqOJzxozm4Aqj-T4pMi31HEjexLwpPT9E_sh1aw@mail.gmail.com>

While disassembling the rear brakes of the BN1 that I'm restoring I noticed
that 1 of the brake adjuster followers (not sure that's the correct name)
appeared to be hand made. Fortunately I had a spare so replaced it.
Now, I  have discovered that my replacement is incorrect.
Only in the spiral- bevel type rear brake are these followers pairs,  i.e.
not identical, and my replacement is incorrect.
If you look at the at the attached pics you will note that when looking
down the  axis of these followers when they are placed with their angle cut
end on a flat surface, the slot for the shoe slopes upper left to lower
right.
This indicates that these 2 followers are the same i.e. not a pair.
Before I start trying to make a replacement, which I  can imagine will be a
very time consuming process considering that they are hardened, does anyone
have one that I can purchase?
Thanks,

M
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 19 17:26:55 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2020 19:26:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 rear brake adjuster
In-Reply-To: <4170C001-BE70-42A6-9589-B713A5C991DC@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKjp3WAqOJzxozm4Aqj-T4pMi31HEjexLwpPT9E_sh1aw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4170C001-BE70-42A6-9589-B713A5C991DC@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKJQ7skwaQfJZMtQrDVWeFSHJOA+08w6-cg9k_x4isEFQ@mail.gmail.com>

Well as Perry said a lathe, a cut off grinder, a file, piece of 3/4" oil
hardening drill rod and a digital caliper  ... problem solved ... oh did I
mention the 2 hours ?.


On Fri., Jun. 19, 2020, 5:40 p.m. 55healey at comcast.net, <
55healey at comcast.net> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> I bought one a few years ago from Kent Lambert in Hood River, OR.  (541)
> 490-5674       jk1531 at aol.com
>
> Rob
>
>
> > On Jun 19, 2020, at 9:58 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > While disassembling the rear brakes of the BN1 that I'm restoring I
> noticed that 1 of the brake adjuster followers (not sure that's the correct
> name) appeared to be hand made. Fortunately I had a spare so replaced it.
> > Now, I  have discovered that my replacement is incorrect.
> > Only in the spiral- bevel type rear brake are these followers pairs,
> i.e. not identical, and my replacement is incorrect.
> > If you look at the at the attached pics you will note that when looking
> down the  axis of these followers when they are placed with their angle cut
> end on a flat surface, the slot for the shoe slopes upper left to lower
> right.
> > This indicates that these 2 followers are the same i.e. not a pair.
> > Before I start trying to make a replacement, which I  can imagine will
> be a very time consuming process considering that they are hardened, does
> anyone have one that I can purchase?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > M
>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Fri Jun 19 17:32:02 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 11:32:02 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear fender beadings.
In-Reply-To: <A7A4EB13-51E5-41AA-B902-E738A4D5B779@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKL1_g4UOs8c=KKWEYSZpdZquRe55bdvfvMUmVyFVwTYA@mail.gmail.com>
 <A7A4EB13-51E5-41AA-B902-E738A4D5B779@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601d64691$d7495d40$85dc17c0$@xtra.co.nz>

Michael,

I checked the beadings on both sides of my BN2.  The car has never been
apart.

The beadings - where they meet the cockpit combing - look exactly the same
as on Richard's BN2.

The small triangular gap is 8mm  (5/16") on its longest side.

 

Cheers

Mark

Ardmore 

NZ

 

From: Richard Korn <cynicbass at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, 20 June 2020 2:38 a.m.
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 rear fender beadings.

 

Hi Michael, 

Here is a photo of my BN2 with the cockpit combing lifted up to see the end
of the beading.

 

Best regards from a covid free Iceland, until those tourist start to
return!!

 

Richard

 



 

On Jun 19, 2020, at 14:03, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

I'm working on installing a set of cockpit combings and am uncertain about
the intersection of the combings with the front end of the fender beadings. 

I had always thought that the beadings just butted up to the combings but,
upon examining several original beadings I have found several where the end
of the beading has been flattened so that it will nest under the combing. 

Anyone know how these were originally for sure?

Thanks.

 

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net>  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Jun 20 05:27:11 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 07:27:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>

Writing an auction article for *Healey Marque* about the auction of a
center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've
seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?

Thanks in advance,
Rick Neville

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jun 20 06:09:34 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 22:09:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <012301d646fb$a9fb6990$fdf23cb0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Rick

 

I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.

 

The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in Nov ?61 and the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean that there was 1,508? No it doesn?t as those numbers also included the Mk2 BT7 as well.

 

What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129 in LHD and 12 in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally Cars.

 

So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t know.

 

How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39 in RHD.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 

Writing an auction article for Healey Marque about the auction of a center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?

 

Thanks in advance,

Rick Neville

 


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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Jun 20 06:24:42 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 08:24:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <012301d646fb$a9fb6990$fdf23cb0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <012301d646fb$a9fb6990$fdf23cb0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfRqAgPWHuV+fGp+Fbu5N8=BHwm8-+vko+Hg_wKCuenHA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Patrick for your quick reply.  I've seen numbers of 354 and 355
with the 355 number seeming to be the correct
 one.  Auction descriptions are probably the least accurate source for
history, often wrong and surprisingly always in a way that would tend to
make the vehicle on offer more valuable.

Healthy Healeying,

Rick Neville

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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:09 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello Rick
>
>
>
> I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.
>
>
>
> The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in Nov ?61 and
> the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean that there was 1,508? No
> it doesn?t as those numbers also included the Mk2 BT7 as well.
>
>
>
> What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129 in LHD and 12
> in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally Cars.
>
>
>
> So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t know.
>
>
>
> How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39 in RHD.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> HealeyRick
> *Sent:* Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>
>
>
> Writing an auction article for *Healey Marque* about the auction of a
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rick Neville
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
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>
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 20 06:41:14 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 08:41:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354 
can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last 
BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced 
in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per 
month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just 
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of 
November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN 
of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a 
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.? Auction house says 220 were built.? I've 
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.? Anyone have the correct number?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
> 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
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> 
> 
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> 
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From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 20 06:48:12 2020
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 07:48:12 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
References: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
Message-ID: <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>

These numbers are for all BN7s.
How does one distinguish between the center shift and side shift MK IIs?
Just curious.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 20, 2020, at 7:28 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
>    This message is eligible for Automatic Cleanup! (healeyrik at gmail.com) Add cleanup rule | More info 
> Thanks, Patrick for your quick reply.  I've seen numbers of 354 and 355 with the 355 number seeming to be the correct
>  one.  Auction descriptions are probably the least accurate source for history, often wrong and surprisingly always in a way that would tend to make the vehicle on offer more valuable.  
> 
> Healthy Healeying,
> 
> Rick Neville
> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:09 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>> Hello Rick
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in Nov ?61 and the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean that there was 1,508? No it doesn?t as those numbers also included the Mk2 BT7 as well.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129 in LHD and 12 in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally Cars.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t know.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39 in RHD.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Hoo Roo
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Patrick Quinn
>> 
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
>> Sent: Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
>> To: Healeys
>> Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Writing an auction article for Healey Marque about the auction of a center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> 
>> Rick Neville
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 20 07:00:35 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 09:00:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
References: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
 <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <de31d8d8-13fe-3b5f-5d68-cf16f4532930@earthlink.net>

Robert,

The VINs for the first center shift cars are:
	BT7: 15881
	BN7: 16039
	Engine: 29E/2246

These numbers and those in my earlier email are from Anders Ditlev 
Clausager's book "Original Austin-Healey, the Restorer's Guide to 100, 
100-Six and 3000".

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 8:48 AM, ROBERT BROWN via Healeys wrote:
> These numbers are for all BN7s.
> How does one distinguish between the center shift and side shift MK IIs?
> Just curious.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 20, 2020, at 7:28 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Boxbe <https://www.boxbe.com/overview> This message is eligible for 
>> Automatic Cleanup! (healeyrik at gmail.com) Add cleanup rule 
>> <https://www.boxbe.com/popup?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boxbe.com%2Fcleanup%3Fkey%3DphIf%252F2R6lN3F4x3XCBEYZLpcV4WrG8%252FC4uoEPPP0VGM%253D%26token%3DfQ647%252FI7PWYClCSjsu7RJTsfWZTd5rfy4LiucUvPBMt%252BoMznms1GPqe2uUz6Er1scu84COE1wGtNkvaKW3b62HgwF9TjSvJ0ZVxg4NH33EjOMv7RWyI3zQ7xbby6H6w61LBSWPeyKmE%253D&tc_serial=52797760512&tc_rand=1243164738&utm_source=stf&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ANNO_CLEANUP_ADD&utm_content=001> 
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>>
>> Thanks, Patrick for your quick reply.? I've seen numbers of 354 and 
>> 355 with the 355 number seeming to be the correct
>> ?one.? Auction descriptions are probably the least accurate source for 
>> history, often wrong and surprisingly always in a way that would tend 
>> to make the vehicle on offer more valuable.
>>
>> Healthy Healeying,
>>
>> Rick Neville
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> 
>> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> 
>>
>>
>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:09 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn 
>> <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>> wrote:
>>
>>     Hello Rick____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in Nov
>>     ?61 and the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean that
>>     there was 1,508? No it doesn?t as those numbers also included the
>>     Mk2 BT7 as well.____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129 in
>>     LHD and 12 in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally Cars.____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t
>>     know.____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39 in
>>     RHD.____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     Hoo Roo____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     Patrick Quinn____
>>
>>     Blue Mountains, Australia____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *HealeyRick
>>     *Sent:* Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
>>     *To:* Healeys
>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction
>>     of a center-change, tri-carb, BN7.? Auction house says 220 were
>>     built.? I've seen numbers of 354 and 125.? Anyone have the correct
>>     number?____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     Thanks in advance,____
>>
>>     Rick Neville____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>____
>>
>>     	
>>
>>     Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
>>     ____
>>
>>     __ __
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com
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> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jun 20 08:32:03 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 10:32:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>

"Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer".

Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to do it.  To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for, or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain characteristic for the cars in general.  That's what Anders Clausager did to produce his book.  
At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.  Given recent changes at BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
To: HealeyRick; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354 
can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last 
BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced 
in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per 
month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just 
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of 
November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN 
of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a 
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've 
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
> 


From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Sat Jun 20 08:55:16 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 09:55:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
References: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
 <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjpALxOLt+N7i1fHuxKwyQp5iy1D7fVMkTL90xAWBQaJMg@mail.gmail.com>

In Bill Emerson's Healey book, page 160 re: MK II BN7, he states at end of
that section, "Of the 355 MK II BN7s produced, only 34 were right-hand
drive and destined for the home market; an additional 5 right hand drive
and 57 left-hand drive cars were produced for export to locations other
than North America.  The North American market received the remaining 259
cars.  These cars are highly prized by their owners for their rarity and
performance."

The Healey blue over OEW roadster pictured on that page, and next has to be
an even rarer BN7 model.  That car is equipped with steel wheels.

So, it makes sense that all the BN7s that came to the States were left-hand
drive.  We may be able to assume that Emerson's comprehensive book is quite
accurate, although a few details have been found to be in error.

Neil Anderson



On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 7:55 AM ROBERT BROWN via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> These numbers are for all BN7s.
> How does one distinguish between the center shift and side shift MK IIs?
> Just curious.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 20, 2020, at 7:28 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> [image: Boxbe] <https://www.boxbe.com/overview> This message is eligible
> for Automatic Cleanup! (healeyrik at gmail.com) Add cleanup rule
> <https://www.boxbe.com/popup?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boxbe.com%2Fcleanup%3Fkey%3DphIf%252F2R6lN3F4x3XCBEYZLpcV4WrG8%252FC4uoEPPP0VGM%253D%26token%3DfQ647%252FI7PWYClCSjsu7RJTsfWZTd5rfy4LiucUvPBMt%252BoMznms1GPqe2uUz6Er1scu84COE1wGtNkvaKW3b62HgwF9TjSvJ0ZVxg4NH33EjOMv7RWyI3zQ7xbby6H6w61LBSWPeyKmE%253D&tc_serial=52797760512&tc_rand=1243164738&utm_source=stf&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ANNO_CLEANUP_ADD&utm_content=001>
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> Thanks, Patrick for your quick reply.  I've seen numbers of 354 and 355
> with the 355 number seeming to be the correct
>  one.  Auction descriptions are probably the least accurate source for
> history, often wrong and surprisingly always in a way that would tend to
> make the vehicle on offer more valuable.
>
> Healthy Healeying,
>
> Rick Neville
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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> <#m_-2723118219946121014_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:09 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>> Hello Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.
>>
>>
>>
>> The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in Nov ?61 and
>> the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean that there was 1,508? No
>> it doesn?t as those numbers also included the Mk2 BT7 as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129 in LHD and
>> 12 in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally Cars.
>>
>>
>>
>> So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t know.
>>
>>
>>
>> How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39 in RHD.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
>> HealeyRick
>> *Sent:* Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
>> *To:* Healeys
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>>
>>
>>
>> Writing an auction article for *Healey Marque* about the auction of a
>> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've
>> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Rick Neville
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
>>
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 20 09:34:17 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 11:34:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjpALxOLt+N7i1fHuxKwyQp5iy1D7fVMkTL90xAWBQaJMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
 <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
 <CAHZDnjpALxOLt+N7i1fHuxKwyQp5iy1D7fVMkTL90xAWBQaJMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <eb8debdb-8499-9adf-a294-3202e58fe797@earthlink.net>

Matches Clausager's book:

Year    RHD      RHD       LHD     LHD
         home     export    export  NA
1961     25        2       53      134
1962      9        3        4      125
Total    34        5       57      259

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 10:55 AM, Neil Anderson wrote:
> In Bill Emerson's Healey book, page 160 re: MK II BN7, he states at end 
> of that section, "Of the 355 MK II BN7s produced, only 34 were 
> right-hand drive and destined for the home market; an additional 5 right 
> hand drive and 57 left-hand drive cars were produced for export to 
> locations other than North America.? The North American market received 
> the remaining 259 cars.? These cars are highly prized by their owners 
> for their rarity and performance."
> 
> The Healey blue over?OEW roadster pictured on that page, and next?has to 
> be an even rarer?BN7 model.? That car is equipped with steel wheels.
> 
> So, it makes sense that all the BN7s that came to the?States were 
> left-hand drive.? We may be able to assume that Emerson's comprehensive 
> book is quite accurate, although a few details have been found to be in 
> error.
> 
> Neil Anderson
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 7:55 AM ROBERT BROWN via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
>     These numbers are for all BN7s.
>     How does one distinguish between the center shift and side shift MK IIs?
>     Just curious.
> 
>     Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>     On Jun 20, 2020, at 7:28 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     ?
>>     Boxbe <https://www.boxbe.com/overview> This message is eligible
>>     for Automatic Cleanup! (healeyrik at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>) Add cleanup rule
>>     <https://www.boxbe.com/popup?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boxbe.com%2Fcleanup%3Fkey%3DphIf%252F2R6lN3F4x3XCBEYZLpcV4WrG8%252FC4uoEPPP0VGM%253D%26token%3DfQ647%252FI7PWYClCSjsu7RJTsfWZTd5rfy4LiucUvPBMt%252BoMznms1GPqe2uUz6Er1scu84COE1wGtNkvaKW3b62HgwF9TjSvJ0ZVxg4NH33EjOMv7RWyI3zQ7xbby6H6w61LBSWPeyKmE%253D&tc_serial=52797760512&tc_rand=1243164738&utm_source=stf&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ANNO_CLEANUP_ADD&utm_content=001>
>>     | More info
>>     <http://blog.boxbe.com/general/boxbe-automatic-cleanup?tc_serial=52797760512&tc_rand=1243164738&utm_source=stf&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ANNO_CLEANUP_ADD&utm_content=001>
>>
>>     Thanks, Patrick for your quick reply.? I've seen numbers of 354
>>     and 355 with the 355 number seeming to be the correct
>>     ?one.? Auction descriptions are probably the least accurate source
>>     for history, often wrong and surprisingly always in a way that
>>     would tend to make the vehicle on offer more valuable.
>>
>>     Healthy Healeying,
>>
>>     Rick Neville
>>
>>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
>>     	Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
>>
>>
>>     <#m_-2723118219946121014_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>>     On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 8:09 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn
>>     <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>> wrote:
>>
>>         Hello Rick____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         I would be interested in how they arrived at any figure.____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         The first centre shift box in a BN7 MK2 was in BN7/16039 in
>>         Nov ?61 and the last was BN7/17547 in Jan 1962. Does that mean
>>         that there was 1,508? No it doesn?t as those numbers also
>>         included the Mk2 BT7 as well.____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         What we do know are the numbers in 1962 and that?s 141 ? 129
>>         in LHD and 12 in RHD. Five RHD examples became Works Rally
>>         Cars.____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         So how many were made in November and December 1961? Wouldn?t
>>         know.____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         How many BN7 Mk2s were built? In total 355 ? 316 in LHD and 39
>>         in RHD.____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         Hoo Roo____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         Patrick Quinn____
>>
>>         Blue Mountains, Australia____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *HealeyRick
>>         *Sent:* Saturday, 20 June 2020 9:27 PM
>>         *To:* Healeys
>>         *Subject:* [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the
>>         auction of a center-change, tri-carb, BN7.? Auction house says
>>         220 were built.? I've seen numbers of 354 and 125.? Anyone
>>         have the correct number?____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         Thanks in advance,____
>>
>>         Rick Neville____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>         <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>____
>>
>>         	
>>
>>         Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>         <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
>>         ____
>>
>>         __ __
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
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>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Jun 20 09:41:38 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 16:41:38 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
Message-ID: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>

This talk of BN7s reminds me.

I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the US.
They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.

Looking at it now, I see that there's a rather nice sketch on the front
cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an
auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein..

 

The inside cover is inscribed:

Engine  29E/RU/H3146

Car        HBT7 L 16610

Anyone we know?

(If I've copied it down wrong/the numbers don't make sense, the guy's "6"s
were pretty ropey).

Simon

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 20 10:28:02 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 12:28:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1592670486.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8. Something is amiss?
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: [Healeys] BT7

This talk of BN7s reminds me?
I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.

The inside cover is inscribed:
Engine? 29E/RU/H3146
Car??????? HBT7 L 16610
Anyone we know?
(If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s ?6?s were pretty ropey).
Simon

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From kags at shaw.ca  Sat Jun 20 10:46:55 2020
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 09:46:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <eb8debdb-8499-9adf-a294-3202e58fe797@earthlink.net>
References: <1592656341701.708632906@boxbe>
 <B3E7A9CD-694D-4E7C-B730-B96F60C81773@yahoo.com>
 <CAHZDnjpALxOLt+N7i1fHuxKwyQp5iy1D7fVMkTL90xAWBQaJMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <eb8debdb-8499-9adf-a294-3202e58fe797@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <6CD4BF32DD4D4A9FBF5C9CC42B3DE35E@KagsLaptop>

Gentlemen:

It has been my understanding that BN7 / BT7 was overlapped with the start of 
BJ7 production.

I am looking at Clausagers book on page 89, which gives beginning and ending 
VIN #s (and dates) for all 3000's. Assuming that this table is accurate, 
this is exactly why it is next to impossible to determine the number of top 
shift BN7's - because of the undetermined number of BJ7's interspersed. As 
Steve says, it would take someone to go through all of the individual 
production records during that period to get a more-or-less accurate count.

I recall (from many, many years ago) that a couple of knowledgeable tri-carb 
guru's best estimates of top shift BN7's was somewhere between 120 and 140 
of the total 355 built.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:34 AM
To: Neil Anderson ; ROBERT BROWN
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Matches Clausager's book:

Year    RHD      RHD       LHD     LHD
         home     export    export  NA
1961     25        2       53      134
1962      9        3        4      125
Total    34        5       57      259

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 20 11:32:53 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:32:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>

Simon,

That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.  The number 
you have is about right based on other cars.  The entry is from 1998 
with no contact info.

Perry,

Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the 
manual.  Tri-carb with wood dash.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
> I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center 
> shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb 
> setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8. 
> Something is amiss?
> 
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
> 
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
> *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
> 
> This talk of BN7s reminds me?
> 
> I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the 
> US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
> 
> Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front 
> cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an 
> auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.
> 
> The inside cover is inscribed:
> 
> Engine? 29E/RU/H3146
> 
> Car??????? HBT7 L 16610
> 
> Anyone we know?
> 
> (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s 
> ?6?s were pretty ropey).
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 20 12:08:20 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 14:08:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1592676505.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Thanks Bob. Yes I should have caught a couple things before responding. The word sketch and Simon?s reference to the inside cover being inscribed with the car information.  My brain told me that there was a printed reference to the car shown on the cover. Wrong again. Also I should have pulled my copy of the Haynes manual off the shelf before responding. The wood dash is well beyond 16610.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 1:32 PM
To: Perry; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

Simon,

That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.  The number 
you have is about right based on other cars.  The entry is from 1998 
with no contact info.

Perry,

Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the 
manual.  Tri-carb with wood dash.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
> I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center 
> shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb 
> setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8. 
> Something is amiss?
> 
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
> 
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
> *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
> 
> This talk of BN7s reminds me?
> 
> I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the 
> US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
> 
> Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front 
> cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an 
> auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.
> 
> The inside cover is inscribed:
> 
> Engine? 29E/RU/H3146
> 
> Car??????? HBT7 L 16610
> 
> Anyone we know?
> 
> (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s 
> ?6?s were pretty ropey).
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 20 12:22:00 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 18:22:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>,
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462B08366907AD904994E85D1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

This car as illustrated on the cover of the Haynes Manual also has the two rare spare tire bars which, combined with triple carbs and wood dash makes it extremely rare, probably worth a lot more than any other Austin-Healey except the 100S.
This is the kind of absurd description that auction houses are using to prop up the price of otherwise ordinary cars, making bidders believe that they can acquire a really rare car when in reality they were built in the thousand of not in some cases, millions.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Bob Haskell<mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>
Sent: June 20, 2020 12:34 PM
To: Perry<mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

Simon,

That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.  The number
you have is about right based on other cars.  The entry is from 1998
with no contact info.

Perry,

Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the
manual.  Tri-carb with wood dash.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
> I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center
> shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb
> setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8.
> Something is amiss?
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=szJ5X2KPucEY6YjviGlSOvLrrh27l3X3W%2BksJTNP6ag%3D&amp;reserved=0> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
> *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
>
> This talk of BN7s reminds me?
>
> I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the
> US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
>
> Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front
> cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an
> auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.
>
> The inside cover is inscribed:
>
> Engine  29E/RU/H3146
>
> Car        HBT7 L 16610
>
> Anyone we know?
>
> (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s
> ?6?s were pretty ropey).
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=pRBzfH%2BC5222jGI8PAxoaPZiG2SlpEG2TMTgU5UoLX0%3D&amp;reserved=0
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jun 20 12:36:42 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 14:36:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <20200620180909.850A0A0EAC@autox.team.net>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
 <20200620180909.850A0A0EAC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00a501d64731$bef4eb60$3cdec220$@rr.com>

So are the roll-up windows.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 2:08 PM
To: Bob Haskell; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

 

Thanks Bob. Yes I should have caught a couple things before responding. The word sketch and Simon?s reference to the inside cover being inscribed with the car information.  My brain told me that there was a printed reference to the car shown on the cover. Wrong again. Also I should have pulled my copy of the Haynes manual off the shelf before responding. The wood dash is well beyond 16610.

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

> I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center 

> shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb 

> setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8. 

> Something is amiss?

> 

> Perry

> 

> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 

> Windows 10

> 

> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 

> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>

> *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM

> *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>

> *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7

> 

> This talk of BN7s reminds me?

> 

> I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the 

> US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.

> 

> Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front 

> cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an 

> auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.

> 

> The inside cover is inscribed:

> 

> Engine  29E/RU/H3146

> 

> Car        HBT7 L 16610

> 

> Anyone we know?

> 

> (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s 

> ?6?s were pretty ropey).

> 

> Simon

> 

> 

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

> 

> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

> 

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

> 

> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net

> 

 

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jun 20 12:47:56 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 14:47:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462B08366907AD904994E85D1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462B08366907AD904994E85D1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <74a309cb-0172-8122-af15-8783d8438456@earthlink.net>

A tri-carb with a side shift is probably rarer these days.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 2:22 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
> This car as illustrated on the cover of the Haynes Manual also has the 
> two rare spare tire bars which, combined with triple carbs and wood dash 
> makes it extremely rare, probably worth a lot more than any other 
> Austin-Healey except the 100S.
> 
> This is the kind of absurd description that auction houses are using to 
> prop up the price of otherwise ordinary cars, making bidders believe 
> that they can acquire a really rare car when in reality they were built 
> in the thousand of not in some cases, millions.
> 
> Jean
> 
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
> 
> *From: *Bob Haskell <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> *Sent: *June 20, 2020 12:34 PM
> *To: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; 
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] BT7
> 
> Simon,
> 
> That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.? The number
> you have is about right based on other cars.? The entry is from 1998
> with no contact info.
> 
> Perry,
> 
> Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the
> manual.? Tri-carb with wood dash.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> 
> On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>  > I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center
>  > shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri carb
>  > setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8.
>  > Something is amiss?
>  >
>  > Perry
>  >
>  > Sent from Mail 
> <https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=szJ5X2KPucEY6YjviGlSOvLrrh27l3X3W%2BksJTNP6ag%3D&amp;reserved=0> 
> for
>  > Windows 10
>  >
>  > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>  > <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>  > *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
>  > *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>  > *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
>  >
>  > This talk of BN7s reminds me?
>  >
>  > I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From the
>  > US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
>  >
>  > Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front
>  > cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an
>  > auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.
>  >
>  > The inside cover is inscribed:
>  >
>  > Engine? 29E/RU/H3146
>  >
>  > Car??????? HBT7 L 16610
>  >
>  > Anyone we know?
>  >
>  > (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s
>  > ?6?s were pretty ropey).
>  >
>  > Simon
>  >
>  >
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > Support Team.Net 
> https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=pRBzfH%2BC5222jGI8PAxoaPZiG2SlpEG2TMTgU5UoLX0%3D&amp;reserved=0
>  > Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>  >
>  > Archive: 
> https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=fMLyfdQH2LK0dPMa08lWixP1zeAsFW2rLYuRurwpmus%3D&amp;reserved=0 
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>  >
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>  >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sat Jun 20 13:02:41 2020
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 21:02:41 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>

The number was so low as nobody wanted them as there was a better alternative in the BT7, even the Bn7s were cheaper than the better looking and more praticable BT7s.
Now some try to tell they are so rare they should be worth much more. They are rare as nobody wanted them. 

So what?s interesting on a car nobody wanted?

Josef Eckert



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Datum: 2020-06-20T16:35:01+0200
Von: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>

"Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer".

Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to do it.  To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for, or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain characteristic for the cars in general.  That's what Anders Clausager did to produce his book.  
At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.  Given recent changes at BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
To: HealeyRick; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354 
can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last 
BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced 
in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per 
month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just 
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of 
November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN 
of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a 
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've 
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
> 

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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?

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 20 13:16:53 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 19:16:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>,
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Josef,
Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond common sense,  these cars became sought after.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>
Sent: June 20, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Healey, Forum<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

The number was so low as nobody wanted them as there was a better alternative in the BT7, even the Bn7s were cheaper than the better looking and more praticable BT7s.
Now some try to tell they are so rare they should be worth much more. They are rare as nobody wanted them.

So what?s interesting on a car nobody wanted?

Josef Eckert



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Datum: 2020-06-20T16:35:01+0200
Von: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>

"Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum
ought to be able to answer".

Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to do it.  To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for, or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain characteristic for the cars in general.  That's what Anders Clausager did to produce his book.
At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.  Given recent changes at BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
To: HealeyRick; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354
can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last
BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced
in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per
month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of
November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN
of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
>

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?
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jun 20 15:04:02 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 17:04:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Blog update
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJEAnZaJaSAWuuzuCSJzH6qFU5YjtTHA=viASaLy=jyWw@mail.gmail.com>

Just in case someone out there is following my mission to install a lithium
battery in my 100 there is an update to my blog post on the subject that
may be of interest here.
<https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/14/lucas-17l-tar-top-battery-solution/>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 20 15:37:52 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 17:37:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>,
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.13.1592689075.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

The production and sales data is out on the net but if you look where a lot of the Austin Healeys where sold, like the US, the 1950?s and 60?swere about bigger more powerful cars with four door sedans being the top sellers. Couple that with an increasing importation of cars to the US, around 22,000 cars imported when Austin Healey came on the scene in 1953. There were multiple times more imported by the end of big Healey?s run in 1967. When the US started to want more economical cars, Ford Falcons and the like in the mid 60?s,  Japan was already producing similar cars that were less expensive. The US production of cars had just about doubled during the AH run.  There were lots of choices other than a AH. As someone has stated previously, timing is everything.
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Jean Caron
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 3:18 PM
To: josef-eckert at t-online.de; Healey, Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Josef,
Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond common sense, ?these cars became sought after.

Jean

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: josef-eckert at t-online.de
Sent: June 20, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Healey, Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

The number was so low as nobody wanted them as there was a better alternative in the BT7, even the Bn7s were cheaper than the better looking and more praticable BT7s.
Now some try to tell they are so rare they should be worth much more. They are rare as nobody wanted them. 

So what?s interesting on a car nobody wanted?

Josef Eckert



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Datum: 2020-06-20T16:35:01+0200
Von: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>

"Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer".

Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to do it.? To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for, or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain characteristic for the cars in general.? That's what Anders Clausager did to produce his book.? 
At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.? Given recent changes at BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC? USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
To: HealeyRick; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.? As total production was 355, 354 
can't be correct.? BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last 
BN7 was produced in March '62.? The center shift gearbox was introduced 
in November.? There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per 
month.? For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.? For just 
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.? So pick a rate for part of 
November and December. 141 plus 60?? Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN 
of the first car HBN7/16039.? 59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a 
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.? Auction house says 220 were built.? I've 
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.? Anyone have the correct number?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
> 

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?
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Jun 20 19:22:45 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 11:22:45 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <20200620214051.9FB24A08D1@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>,
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <20200620214051.9FB24A08D1@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <007401d6476a$791e1b50$6b5a51f0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

An interesting question that doesn?t revolve around mechanical bits and pieces.

 

I don?t think anyone has a definitive answer to the question of centre-shift Mk2 BN7s. The numbers I quoted last night came from Original Austin-Healey by Anders Ditlev Clausager which was published in 1990. Back then Anders was the archivist for the BMIHT and had access to all the build cards and in writing the book would have gone through them all.

 

It?s interesting to note the numbers on page 90 of the book as while the cars for 1961 are bundled together, there is no differentiation between side-shift to centre-shift in the 214 Mk2 BN7s built in that year. For 1962 there were 141 built and all these were fitted with centre shift gearboxes with 12 built in RHD. Of the 12, nine stayed in the UK (five became Rally cars) and three exported. There are two in Australia (HBN7/18442 and HBN7/18884) with the former sold new here and the latter being a personal export to New York for a member of the Australian consulate and eventual export to Australia. I As to the other one I think it went to New Zealand, but was recent sold back into the UK.

 

Bill Emerson?s book was first published in 2002 and the same figures are mention as are in the Clausager book.

 

Yes the Mk2 Roadster didn?t sell all that well. Why? Probably because the news was out about the new rain-tight BJ7 was about to be release and in fact the two models were built concurrently and would have been on some showroom floors together. The other factor was that buyers had little people and the selfishness of a two-seater car couldn?t be countered.

 

Unless someone is prepared to do what Clausager did and go through the build cards from November 1961 through to the last Mk2 Roadster, we are unlikely to deduce an accurate figure of the number of centre-shift Mk2 Roadsters built.

 

Thank you for the brain exercising on a Sunday morning.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 



-- 
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jun 20 20:48:18 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 19:48:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <007401d6476a$791e1b50$6b5a51f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>,
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <20200620214051.9FB24A08D1@autox.team.net>
 <007401d6476a$791e1b50$6b5a51f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <09AB5A74483F485EBC922C816FF35A28@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I have the Clausager book and thought this question would be easy to answer
until I looked closer. If you make a lot of assumptions this is one way of
estimating the number of Centre Change Mk II BN7's. All the dates and
numbers are from the Clausager book.
 
In 1961 the Mk II started production approximately Mar 15, 1961, the centre
change gear box was introduced Nov 15, 1961 and there were 214 BN7 Mk II
cars produced in 1961. Based on an even production rate 14% or 29 would have
been centre change, assuming the plant closed one week for the holidays.
In 1962 there were 141 BN7 Mk II cars produced and all would be centre
change.
Total estimated centre change BN7's is 170.
Total estimated side change BN7's is 185.
 
This is a brain teaser and without going through build records we will never
know the exact number.
 
Harold
 
 
 
 
 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 6:23 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s



Hello

 

An interesting question that doesn't revolve around mechanical bits and
pieces.

 

I don't think anyone has a definitive answer to the question of centre-shift
Mk2 BN7s. The numbers I quoted last night came from Original Austin-Healey
by Anders Ditlev Clausager which was published in 1990. Back then Anders was
the archivist for the BMIHT and had access to all the build cards and in
writing the book would have gone through them all.

 

It's interesting to note the numbers on page 90 of the book as while the
cars for 1961 are bundled together, there is no differentiation between
side-shift to centre-shift in the 214 Mk2 BN7s built in that year. For 1962
there were 141 built and all these were fitted with centre shift gearboxes
with 12 built in RHD. Of the 12, nine stayed in the UK (five became Rally
cars) and three exported. There are two in Australia (HBN7/18442 and
HBN7/18884) with the former sold new here and the latter being a personal
export to New York for a member of the Australian consulate and eventual
export to Australia. I As to the other one I think it went to New Zealand,
but was recent sold back into the UK.

 

Bill Emerson's book was first published in 2002 and the same figures are
mention as are in the Clausager book.

 

Yes the Mk2 Roadster didn't sell all that well. Why? Probably because the
news was out about the new rain-tight BJ7 was about to be release and in
fact the two models were built concurrently and would have been on some
showroom floors together. The other factor was that buyers had little people
and the selfishness of a two-seater car couldn't be countered.

 

Unless someone is prepared to do what Clausager did and go through the build
cards from November 1961 through to the last Mk2 Roadster, we are unlikely
to deduce an accurate figure of the number of centre-shift Mk2 Roadsters
built.

 

Thank you for the brain exercising on a Sunday morning.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 	 Virus-free. www.avast.com
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 05:18:13 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:18:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey unsolved
mystery.  Funny how we look back on the early iterations of the marque as
being preferred when so often they were discontinued because of lack of
sales.  Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.  The +2 cars became
popular as growing families needed "room for the tads" as one Healey advert
said.  And at a time when Heleys were not just weekend cars but the sole
means of transport of lots of young people it would be hard to compete with
the MGB and TR4 without roll-up windows and a convertible top.  But rarity
now rules.  His the BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than
a BT7:
https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Josef,
>
> Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at
> some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond
> common sense,  these cars became sought after.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *josef-eckert at t-online.de
> *Sent: *June 20, 2020 2:11 PM
> *To: *Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>
>
>
> The number was so low as nobody wanted them as there was a better
> alternative in the BT7, even the Bn7s were cheaper than the better looking
> and more praticable BT7s.
> Now some try to tell they are so rare they should be worth much more. They
> are rare as nobody wanted them.
>
> So what?s interesting on a car nobody wanted?
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
> Datum: 2020-06-20T16:35:01+0200
> Von: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
> "Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum
> ought to be able to answer".
>
> Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to
> do it.  To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with
> original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for,
> or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when
> submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I
> don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain
> characteristic for the cars in general.  That's what Anders Clausager did
> to produce his book.
> At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for
> themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.  Given recent changes at
> BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
> To: HealeyRick; Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>
> Rick,
>
> I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354
> can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last
> BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced
> in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.
>
> If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per
> month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just
> '62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of
> November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?
>
> About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN
> of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.
>
> Liars, damn liars and statisticians.
>
> Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum
> ought to be able to answer.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> > Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a
> > center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've
> > seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Rick Neville
> >
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Jun 21 06:05:17 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 22:05:17 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c901d647c4$3b3b4330$b1b1c990$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Saw that go for sale a couple of weeks back.

 

While it?s agreed that just 355 Mk2 BN7s were built I would really like to know where the other figures came from. Could be auctioneer speak.

 

JME Healeys are very keen on the Mk2 Roadster and have been selling and restoring a few of late. Good luck to them. They have also been fitting centre-shift boxes into earlier examples.

 

A year or so back they advertised one through Facebook implying that it had a centre-shift box from new. Going on the chassis number that was not possible so I sent a polite note. No response!

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, 21 June 2020 9:18 PM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: Healey, Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 

Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey unsolved mystery.  Funny how we look back on the early iterations of the marque as being preferred when so often they were discontinued because of lack of sales.  Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.  The +2 cars became popular as growing families needed "room for the tads" as one Healey advert said.  And at a time when Heleys were not just weekend cars but the sole means of transport of lots of young people it would be hard to compete with the MGB and TR4 without roll-up windows and a convertible top.  But rarity now rules.  His the BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than a BT7:   https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437

 

Healthy Healeying,

Rick Neville

 

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

Josef,

Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond common sense,  these cars became sought after.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: josef-eckert at t-online.de
Sent: June 20, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Healey, Forum <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 

The number was so low as nobody wanted them as there was a better alternative in the BT7, even the Bn7s were cheaper than the better looking and more praticable BT7s.
Now some try to tell they are so rare they should be worth much more. They are rare as nobody wanted them. 

So what?s interesting on a car nobody wanted?

Josef Eckert



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Datum: 2020-06-20T16:35:01+0200
Von: "Max Byers" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>

"Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer".

Yes, they should be able to answer such questions if they were willing to do it.  To my knowledge, the archive staff will provide a certificate with original build data for a given chassis number when requested and paid for, or they will respond to a single question about a given chassis number when submitted through a "web request" at their website and paid for; but I don't think they will go through all the records to total up a certain characteristic for the cars in general.  That's what Anders Clausager did to produce his book.  
At the moment, the public is free to go there in person and research for themselves, with pre-arrangement with the staff.  Given recent changes at BMIHT, I'm not certain even this option will last too much longer.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:41 AM
To: HealeyRick; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Rick,

I don't have a definitive number.  As total production was 355, 354 
can't be correct.  BN7 Mk II production began in May 1961 and the last 
BN7 was produced in March '62.  The center shift gearbox was introduced 
in November.  There were 141 produced in '62, so 125 can't be right either.

If one attempts to calculate build rates, 355 over 11 months is 32.3 per 
month.  For just '61, 214 over 8 months is 26.8 per month.  For just 
'62, 141 over 3 months is 47 per month.  So pick a rate for part of 
November and December. 141 plus 60?  Gets around 200?

About 59% of the cars in the registry are center shift, based on the VIN 
of the first car HBN7/16039.  59% of 355 is 210.

Liars, damn liars and statisticians.

Seems like this is a question the archivists at the British Motor Museum 
ought to be able to answer.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 7:27 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Writing an auction article for /Healey Marque/ about the auction of a 
> center-change, tri-carb, BN7.  Auction house says 220 were built.  I've 
> seen numbers of 354 and 125.  Anyone have the correct number?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Neville
> 

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Sun Jun 21 07:13:45 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 14:13:45 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <007401d6476a$791e1b50$6b5a51f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <20200620214051.9FB24A08D1@autox.team.net>
 <007401d6476a$791e1b50$6b5a51f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <83029905-6729-3ea9-37ba-0441459637cc@summaventures.com>

All,

just a couple of notes:

I saw this recently (NFI, I am just on their list having known Bill
Rawles and Andrew Cluett for about 20 years!)


<https://rawlesmotorsport.co.uk/CarSales/austin-healey-3000-mkii-bn7-centre-change-uk-rhd/>

Can't afford it but have always wanted a copy of the B&W shot.

With regard to Bill Emerson's book and the figures quoted therein I
think that either Bill himself or Wiet Huidekopper told me that the
figures that Bill quotes tally with Clausager's because Bill used them
and regarded them as about as "right" as it was reasonably possible to
get - without the years spent burrowing through the BMIHT docs. After
all Clausager was, as has been pointed out the archivist at BMIHT.

Regards to all, stay healthy,

Peter Dzwig

On 21/06/2020 02:22, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> Hello
> 
> ?
> 
> An interesting question that doesn?t revolve around mechanical bits and
> pieces.
> 
> ?
> 
> I don?t think anyone has a definitive answer to the question of
> centre-shift Mk2 BN7s. The numbers I quoted last night came from
> /Original Austin-Healey/ by Anders Ditlev Clausager which was published
> in 1990. Back then Anders was the archivist for the BMIHT and had access
> to all the build cards and in writing the book would have gone through
> them all.
> 
> ?
> 
> It?s interesting to note the numbers on page 90 of the book as while the
> cars for 1961 are bundled together, there is no differentiation between
> side-shift to centre-shift in the 214 Mk2 BN7s built in that year. For
> 1962 there were 141 built and all these were fitted with centre shift
> gearboxes with 12 built in RHD. Of the 12, nine stayed in the UK (five
> became Rally cars) and three exported. There are two in Australia
> (HBN7/18442 and HBN7/18884) with the former sold new here and the latter
> being a personal export to New York for a member of the Australian
> consulate and eventual export to Australia. I As to the other one I
> think it went to New Zealand, but was recent sold back into the UK.
> 
> ?
> 
> Bill Emerson?s book was first published in 2002 and the same figures are
> mention as are in the Clausager book.
> 
> ?
> 
> Yes the Mk2 Roadster didn?t sell all that well. Why? Probably because
> the news was out about the new rain-tight BJ7 was about to be release
> and in fact the two models were built concurrently and would have been
> on some showroom floors together. The other factor was that buyers had
> little people and the selfishness of a two-seater car couldn?t be countered.
> 
> ?
> 
> Unless someone is prepared to do what Clausager did and go through the
> build cards from November 1961 through to the last Mk2 Roadster, we are
> unlikely to deduce an accurate figure of the number of centre-shift Mk2
> Roadsters built.
> 
> ?
> 
> Thank you for the brain exercising on a Sunday morning.
> 
> ?
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> ?
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com
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> 
> 
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jun 21 08:37:35 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 07:37:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <86358a06-c8d9-4bfb-48b6-01e08067ce76@comcast.net>

My observation is that the 2-seat roadsters have gained 
popularity--hence value--now that very few Healeys are used as daily 
drivers.? This because they are considered the 'pure' sports cars (often 
shilled as such on auction and dealer ads). The backseat in my BJ8 
rarely gets used for anything except as a luggage tray.

Bob

On 6/21/2020 4:18 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey 
> unsolved mystery.? Funny how we look back on the early iterations of 
> the marque as being preferred when so often they were discontinued 
> because of lack of sales.? Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.? 
> The?+2 cars became popular as growing families needed "room for the 
> tads" as one Healey advert said.? And at a time when Heleys were not 
> just weekend cars but the sole means of transport of lots of young 
> people it would be hard to compete with the MGB and TR4 without 
> roll-up windows and a convertible top.? But rarity now rules.? His the 
> BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than a BT7: 
> https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437 
>
>
> Healthy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron 
> <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com 
> <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Josef,
>
>     Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number.
>     Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and
>     for some reason beyond common sense, ?these cars became sought after.
>
>     Jean
>
>

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 09:43:34 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 11:43:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <86358a06-c8d9-4bfb-48b6-01e08067ce76@comcast.net>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <86358a06-c8d9-4bfb-48b6-01e08067ce76@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <015901d647e2$b98a2df0$2c9e89d0$@gmail.com>

My two kids fit very nicely in my BJ8 30 plus years ago.  And, their children fit nicely in it a few years ago.  My they do grow out of clothes and the back seat of a Healey.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 10:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 

My observation is that the 2-seat roadsters have gained popularity--hence value--now that very few Healeys are used as daily drivers.  This because they are considered the 'pure' sports cars (often shilled as such on auction and dealer ads). The backseat in my BJ8 rarely gets used for anything except as a luggage tray.

Bob

On 6/21/2020 4:18 AM, HealeyRick wrote:

Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey unsolved mystery.  Funny how we look back on the early iterations of the marque as being preferred when so often they were discontinued because of lack of sales.  Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.  The +2 cars became popular as growing families needed "room for the tads" as one Healey advert said.  And at a time when Heleys were not just weekend cars but the sole means of transport of lots of young people it would be hard to compete with the MGB and TR4 without roll-up windows and a convertible top.  But rarity now rules.  His the BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than a BT7:   https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437 

 

Healthy Healeying,

Rick Neville

 

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com <mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> > wrote:

Josef,

Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond common sense,  these cars became sought after.

 

Jean

 

 

 

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 09:58:00 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 15:58:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <015901d647e2$b98a2df0$2c9e89d0$@gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <86358a06-c8d9-4bfb-48b6-01e08067ce76@comcast.net>,
 <015901d647e2$b98a2df0$2c9e89d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB34914C6C05483953798C654FBF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I recall back in the late fifties and early 60?s when I worked for Ed Bussey and BMC in south Florida
the intro of 4 seaters and roll up windows were claimed to be the end of the true sports car era !
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440 (center shift wO/D ...now)

On Jun 21, 2020, at 10:44, Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

?
My two kids fit very nicely in my BJ8 30 plus years ago.  And, their children fit nicely in it a few years ago.  My they do grow out of clothes and the back seat of a Healey.

Bob Begani

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 10:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

My observation is that the 2-seat roadsters have gained popularity--hence value--now that very few Healeys are used as daily drivers.  This because they are considered the 'pure' sports cars (often shilled as such on auction and dealer ads). The backseat in my BJ8 rarely gets used for anything except as a luggage tray.

Bob
On 6/21/2020 4:18 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey unsolved mystery.  Funny how we look back on the early iterations of the marque as being preferred when so often they were discontinued because of lack of sales.  Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.  The +2 cars became popular as growing families needed "room for the tads" as one Healey advert said.  And at a time when Heleys were not just weekend cars but the sole means of transport of lots of young people it would be hard to compete with the MGB and TR4 without roll-up windows and a convertible top.  But rarity now rules.  His the BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than a BT7:   https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Josef,
Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond common sense,  these cars became sought after.

Jean



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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sun Jun 21 11:31:06 2020
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 19:31:06 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Message-ID: <1592760666156.887728.33bb39095e1c4ba9296648a5964edc551c78fb9b@spica.telekom.de>

 
 
 
 
Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel 
arches? Or only the later ones?
I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they 
were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people 
tend to pay more for a MK2.
 
Josef Eckert
 
 
?
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 12:23:11 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 18:23:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <1592760666156.887728.33bb39095e1c4ba9296648a5964edc551c78fb9b@spica.telekom.de>
References: <1592760666156.887728.33bb39095e1c4ba9296648a5964edc551c78fb9b@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB349133DA99F3F05EB3619D95BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440

On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:

?









Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?

I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend to pay more for a MK2.



Josef Eckert





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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jun 21 13:13:16 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 20:13:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB349133DA99F3F05EB3619D95BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1592760666156.887728.33bb39095e1c4ba9296648a5964edc551c78fb9b@spica.telekom.de>
 <BN8PR15MB349133DA99F3F05EB3619D95BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.

Could differ from market to market.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 21 June 2020 19:23
To: josef-eckert at t-online.de
Cc: Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 

My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 #440





On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> " <josef-eckert at t-online.de <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> > wrote:

? 

 

 

 

 

Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?

I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend to pay more for a MK2. 

 

Josef Eckert

 

 

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 13:47:57 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 15:47:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB34914C6C05483953798C654FBF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAGfzsZe+zZc3TWvghb=zLp1jsP5SP881xT6D=kPrZ_RBYdPXCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4a5918b8-e333-e9e9-5c5d-42669aec162b@earthlink.net>
 <005f01d6470f$916bc910$b4435b30$@rr.com>
 <1592679761238.839309.eb4d934e92b5c183e272100eaaf57e34bcd6934d@spica.telekom.de>
 <CY4PR2201MB14629D7CDEC717F840CF790ED1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZdRF=h9+fmbz2eN5EkOGtNxerOKNNWHvqdVToY3M=ttEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <86358a06-c8d9-4bfb-48b6-01e08067ce76@comcast.net>
 <015901d647e2$b98a2df0$2c9e89d0$@gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB34914C6C05483953798C654FBF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdCm-KkbAJUymDMpR331qtn9UR1+05TYXnWZWaA3s0nYA@mail.gmail.com>

When men stopped being real men:

[image: austin healey 1965 3000 mk II.jpg]

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 11:59 AM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I recall back in the late fifties and early 60?s when I worked for Ed
> Bussey and BMC in south Florida
> the intro of 4 seaters and roll up windows were claimed to be the end of
> the true sports car era !
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440 (center shift wO/D ...now)
>
> On Jun 21, 2020, at 10:44, Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> My two kids fit very nicely in my BJ8 30 plus years ago.  And, their
> children fit nicely in it a few years ago.  My they do grow out of clothes
> and the back seat of a Healey.
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 21, 2020 10:38 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>
>
>
> My observation is that the 2-seat roadsters have gained popularity--hence
> value--now that very few Healeys are used as daily drivers.  This because
> they are considered the 'pure' sports cars (often shilled as such on
> auction and dealer ads). The backseat in my BJ8 rarely gets used for
> anything except as a luggage tray.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/21/2020 4:18 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who contributed to trying to solve another Healey unsolved
> mystery.  Funny how we look back on the early iterations of the marque as
> being preferred when so often they were discontinued because of lack of
> sales.  Look at the bugeye/frogeye for instance.  The +2 cars became
> popular as growing families needed "room for the tads" as one Healey advert
> said.  And at a time when Heleys were not just weekend cars but the sole
> means of transport of lots of young people it would be hard to compete with
> the MGB and TR4 without roll-up windows and a convertible top.  But rarity
> now rules.  His the BN7 that started my question, certainly more value than
> a BT7:
> https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/es20/the-european-sale-featuring-the-petitjean-collection/lots/r0061-1961-austin-healey-3000-mk-ii-bn7/856437
>
>
>
> Healthy Healeying,
>
> Rick Neville
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 3:18 PM Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Josef,
>
> Exactly, they were no longer selling, thus the low number. Somehow, at
> some point, someone mentioned how few were made, and for some reason beyond
> common sense,  these cars became sought after.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 14:21:55 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 16:21:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>

Neither did my early BT7

> On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> 
> ?
> Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
> Could differ from market to market.
> Simon
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
> Sent: 21 June 2020 19:23
> To: josef-eckert at t-online.de
> Cc: Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>  
> My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
> 
> 
> On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
> 
> ?
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?
> I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend to pay more for a MK2.
>  
> Josef Eckert
>  
>  
> ?_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 14:35:19 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 20:35:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>,
 <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Yep
Zackly !

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440

On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:21, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Neither did my early BT7

On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:

?
Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
Could differ from market to market.
Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 21 June 2020 19:23
To: josef-eckert at t-online.de
Cc: Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>" <josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>> wrote:
?









Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?

I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend to pay more for a MK2.



Josef Eckert




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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 14:47:14 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 13:47:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOfRB+bm0Tr+18-WWDh-eAPuFYh3tvcM4HyPgFqTjUU0w@mail.gmail.com>

I had an early, side shift, MK II, BN7.  It had the seat belt/shoulder
harness mount on the rear wheel arch.

On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 1:39 PM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Yep
> Zackly !
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
>
> On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:21, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Neither did my early BT7
>
> On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> ?
>
> Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
>
> Could differ from market to market.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Collins
> *Sent:* 21 June 2020 19:23
> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de
> *Cc:* Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>
>
>
> My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard C
>
> BN7 #440
>
>
>
> On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <
> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
>
> ?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel
> arches? Or only the later ones?
>
> I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be
> they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as
> people tend to pay more for a MK2.
>
>
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
>
>
>
> ?_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 15:13:54 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 17:13:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOfRB+bm0Tr+18-WWDh-eAPuFYh3tvcM4HyPgFqTjUU0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqOfRB+bm0Tr+18-WWDh-eAPuFYh3tvcM4HyPgFqTjUU0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKr+wuKkVmcGGV+oCtHb+57VvGMdm49xpHmm1S=TTp79g@mail.gmail.com>

Oh no ... not another sub category!!! Probably only one side shift BN7 MkII
with seat belt mounts ??

On Sun., Jun. 21, 2020, 4:47 p.m. richard mayor, <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I had an early, side shift, MK II, BN7.  It had the seat belt/shoulder
> harness mount on the rear wheel arch.
>
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 1:39 PM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yep
>> Zackly !
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>> BN7 #440
>>
>> On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:21, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Neither did my early BT7
>>
>> On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> ?
>>
>> Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
>>
>> Could differ from market to market.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
>> Collins
>> *Sent:* 21 June 2020 19:23
>> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de
>> *Cc:* Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>>
>>
>>
>> My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Richard C
>>
>> BN7 #440
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <
>> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel
>> arches? Or only the later ones?
>>
>> I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be
>> they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as
>> people tend to pay more for a MK2.
>>
>>
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ?_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> _______________________________________________
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 15:18:21 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 21:18:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKr+wuKkVmcGGV+oCtHb+57VvGMdm49xpHmm1S=TTp79g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqOfRB+bm0Tr+18-WWDh-eAPuFYh3tvcM4HyPgFqTjUU0w@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAB3i7LKr+wuKkVmcGGV+oCtHb+57VvGMdm49xpHmm1S=TTp79g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB34912C90B07FD5519D435D57BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

LHD or RHD ?    ;-)

Regards,
Richard C


On Jun 21, 2020, at 16:14, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Oh no ... not another sub category!!! Probably only one side shift BN7 MkII with seat belt mounts ??

On Sun., Jun. 21, 2020, 4:47 p.m. richard mayor, <boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
I had an early, side shift, MK II, BN7.  It had the seat belt/shoulder harness mount on the rear wheel arch.

On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 1:39 PM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com<mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Yep
Zackly !

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440

On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:21, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com<mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>> wrote:

?
Neither did my early BT7

On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

?
Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
Could differ from market to market.
Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 21 June 2020 19:23
To: josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>
Cc: Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat (lap) belts
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>" <josef-eckert at t-online.de<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>> wrote:
?









Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?

I ask, because I know a few who do not have these fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend to pay more for a MK2.



Josef Eckert




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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 21 15:39:56 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 14:39:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB34912C90B07FD5519D435D57BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000501d64800$05a7a100$10f6e300$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <765A8B02-A220-45ED-918C-2F43A56564E2@gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491D5E395AC46D0D1E71949BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAKkXjqOfRB+bm0Tr+18-WWDh-eAPuFYh3tvcM4HyPgFqTjUU0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKr+wuKkVmcGGV+oCtHb+57VvGMdm49xpHmm1S=TTp79g@mail.gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB34912C90B07FD5519D435D57BF960@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <ca7e1dfe-64c9-e63f-f948-e9c1c27d9778@comcast.net>

CHD.

On 6/21/2020 2:18 PM, Richard Collins wrote:
> LHD or RHD ? ? ?;-)
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
>
>
>> On Jun 21, 2020, at 16:14, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Oh no ... not another sub category!!! Probably only one side shift 
>> BN7 MkII with seat belt mounts ??
>>
>> On Sun., Jun. 21, 2020, 4:47 p.m. richard mayor, 
>> <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     I had an early, side shift, MK II, BN7.? It had the seat
>>     belt/shoulder harness mount on the rear wheel arch.
>>
>>     On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 1:39 PM Richard Collins
>>     <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>         Yep
>>         Zackly !
>>
>>         Regards,
>>         Richard C
>>         BN7 #440
>>
>>>         On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:21, Team.net
>>>         <lawrence.swift at gmail.com <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>>
>>>         wrote:
>>>
>>>         ?
>>>         Neither did my early BT7
>>>
>>>>         On Jun 21, 2020, at 15:14,
>>>>         simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>>>         <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>         ?
>>>>
>>>>         Neither of my MkII BT7s had them until I put them in.
>>>>
>>>>         Could differ from market to market.
>>>>
>>>>         Simon
>>>>
>>>>         *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>>>         <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of
>>>>         *Richard Collins
>>>>         *Sent:* 21 June 2020 19:23
>>>>         *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de
>>>>         <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>
>>>>         *Cc:* Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>         <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
>>>>
>>>>         My early BN7 did not have them; I had to drill to fit seat
>>>>         (lap) belts
>>>>
>>>>         Regards,
>>>>
>>>>         Richard C
>>>>
>>>>         BN7 #440
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>             On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:31, "josef-eckert at t-online.de
>>>>             <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>"
>>>>             <josef-eckert at t-online.de
>>>>             <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>             ?
>>>>
>>>>             Did all MK2 BN7s got the fixings for the seat belts on
>>>>             the rear wheel arches? Or only the later ones?
>>>>
>>>>             I ask, because I know a few who do not have these
>>>>             fixings. Could it be they were born as a MK1 and
>>>>             converted later in their live to a MK2, as people tend
>>>>             to pay more for a MK2.
>>>>
>>>>             Josef Eckert
>>>>
>>>>             ?_______________________________________________
>>>>             Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>             <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>             Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>>>
>>>>             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>             http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>             <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>
>>>>             Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>>>>
>>>>         _______________________________________________
>>>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>         Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>>>
>>>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>
>>>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>
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>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From editorgary at aol.com  Sun Jun 21 19:12:02 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 01:12:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>

Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?
Gary Anderson
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 19:30:11 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 01:30:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278DE21D8EBF80DB0F70C71D1970@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Gary,
I doubt that the heat had anything to do with it. You indicate that it happened near the end of your run, like in the last 15-20 minutes or the last couple of minutes?
Have you tried it again, since shutting it off?
Usually the pump makes noise when running out of fuel, but you said it did not miss a beat, so we can rule that out.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: editorgary--- via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: June 21, 2020 8:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.

Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times.

Anyone?

Gary Anderson


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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 20:07:39 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 10:07:39 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Gary -

If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.

Best,

Alan

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season --
> 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>
> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>
> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
> at all times.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Gary Anderson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 21 20:22:31 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 02:22:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB3491DED96BDB11875C85CE80BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Agree; pretty sure it?s a vapor lock. I bought some fuel line insolation to place on the lines between the two carbs as well as leading into the carbs which seemed to help once my water temp gets above 190-195,
Rumors are wooden clothes pins work as well as heat sink.
FYI Back around 2005 Gary took me in his BN7 to go look at a garage find in his Old neighborhood which turned out to be the BN7 I now have !

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


On Jun 21, 2020, at 21:09, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Hi Gary -

If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.

Best,

Alan

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.

Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times.

Anyone?

Gary Anderson

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jun 21 20:38:59 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2020 22:38:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLQUS20PF+rEx3GGfX75jEuuoDg+Yj8aF91xYcavaVQSg@mail.gmail.com>

I think Alan is on the right track but suspect that the vaporization could
be happening on the inlet side of the pump.
The lower pressure on the suction side of the pump combined with the
elevated temperatures due to the proximity of the exhaust can result in
boiling of the fuel in the line before it reaches the pump.
As gaseous fuel is compressible the pump cannot "hydraulic lock" to keep
the points open so it just keeps tick ticking away passing gaseous fuel
toward the carburetors which can be sufficient to keep the engine running.
The situation tends to deteriorate when you try to drive uphill because the
pressure at the pump inlet becomes even lower, as the pump is elevated
above the fuel level, and the engine demands more fuel to climb the hill ?.
The best solutions are to try to keep the fuel lines before the pump
protected from exhaust heat, ensure that there are absolutely no leaks in
the line ahead of the pump and that there are no restrictions, such as an
inline filter ahead of the pump.
Many modern cars utilize an insulating sleeve over fuel lines to minimize
heat transfer ... may be worth considering.
M


On Sun., Jun. 21, 2020, 10:09 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Gary -
>
> If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
> vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
> trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
> into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
> because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
> overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
> use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
> line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
> days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season
>> -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
>> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
>> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
>> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>>
>> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
>> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
>> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
>> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
>> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
>> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>>
>> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
>> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
>> at all times.
>>
>> Anyone?
>>
>> Gary Anderson
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jun 22 01:07:41 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 17:07:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] New 100 Price
Message-ID: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Is anyone able to tell me the cost of a new Austin-Healey 100 in June 1953
on the US East Coast including applicable taxes?

 

The Road & Track test of July 1954 lists $2,985 but there is no mention of
taxes.

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From editorgary at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 06:55:25 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 12:55:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapping Fuel Pump TIps
References: <654378016.1246252.1592830525954.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <654378016.1246252.1592830525954@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks, everyone, for your collective wisdom on the fuel pump. Given that the car restarted without issue after sitting in the parking lot of the winery for two hours, and when I filled up the tank on the way back to the garage, with an 18 mpg indicated for the 75 mile run, I'm going to conclude that it was just vapor lock from the 15 miles in traffic at 95 degrees during the middle of the day. 
Thanks for giving me an explanation that fitted the circumstances and made me feel better about the day's experience. Now I'm looking forward to getting up into the coastal mountains for more runs this summer. The car has been too many recent summers without any good touring, while I lived in the increasingly densely trafficked SF Bay Area. Really happy with all of this Covid stuff to be up here in idyllic Oregon.
BestGary Anderson
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 07:30:30 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 09:30:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapping Fuel Pump TIps
In-Reply-To: <654378016.1246252.1592830525954@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <654378016.1246252.1592830525954.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <654378016.1246252.1592830525954@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.14.1592832638.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Assuming that the problem is vapor lock, but we can not determine where in the fuel system the overheating occurs, can we make the assumption that the factory understood the problem and moved the fuel pump to the right side of the then BT and BN7?s in January 1962 in order to fix it?  For instance do we have evidence/experience that the vapor lock is also occurring in cars built after the pump was relocated? 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 8:59 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tapping Fuel Pump TIps

Thanks, everyone, for your collective wisdom on the fuel pump. Given that the car restarted without issue after sitting in the parking lot of the winery for two hours, and when I filled up the tank on the way back to the garage, with an 18 mpg indicated for the 75 mile run, I'm going to conclude that it was just vapor lock from the 15 miles in traffic at 95 degrees during the middle of the day. 
Thanks for giving me an explanation that fitted the circumstances and made me feel better about the day's experience. Now I'm looking forward to getting up into the coastal mountains for more runs this summer. The car has been too many recent summers without any good touring, while I lived in the increasingly densely trafficked SF Bay Area. Really happy with all of this Covid stuff to be up here in idyllic Oregon.

Best
Gary Anderson

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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 07:51:07 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 08:51:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] New 100 Price
In-Reply-To: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
References: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjqpJ6BM3V7DdoJ7YN0Pcv-LZMnVstzgqwgiEpiAu3BKsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Even in a region of the East Coast, state and local taxes and transport
from entry point would probably be slightly different for every dealership,
which would make the buyer price different.  There would be no uniform
national tax.

Neil Anderson


On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 2:10 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> Is anyone able to tell me the cost of a new Austin-Healey 100 in June 1953
> on the US East Coast including applicable taxes?
>
>
>
> The Road & Track test of July 1954 lists $2,985 but there is no mention of
> taxes.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-7815721674390054149_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 07:55:04 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 09:55:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New 100 Price
In-Reply-To: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
References: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZe_WVyMJO2Bxfj1y0vMQg9Q-cQoK6f6SF9iKep04Yux2g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Patrick,

Taxes are dependent on where the car is purchased.  Each state is different
and can also be different within a state in different counties and cities.
For example:  New York collects a 4% *state sales tax* rate on the purchase
of all vehicles. There are also a county or local taxes of up to 4.5%. In
addition to taxes, car purchases in New York may be subject to other fees
like registration, title, and plate fees.  Generally, there will also be a
delivery fee by the manufacturer on top of the suggested list price.

Healthy Healeying,

Rick Neville

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 3:10 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> Is anyone able to tell me the cost of a new Austin-Healey 100 in June 1953
> on the US East Coast including applicable taxes?
>
>
>
> The Road & Track test of July 1954 lists $2,985 but there is no mention of
> taxes.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_807473974794212040_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 08:06:28 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 10:06:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapping Fuel Pump TIps
In-Reply-To: <20200622133056.C99ECA110B@autox.team.net>
References: <654378016.1246252.1592830525954.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <654378016.1246252.1592830525954@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200622133056.C99ECA110B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKTO9TOxeZFcJSP2WFR_g5GO_5nZWKCm+ApZ1H691ZdBA@mail.gmail.com>

I forgot another major mitigating factor in the vapour lock issue.
Ethanol laced fuels have a significantly lower boiling point than straight
petrol ... not a problem in cars with the fuel pump submerged in the fuel
tank but a major issue for our cars.

M

On Mon., Jun. 22, 2020, 9:30 a.m. Perry via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Assuming that the problem is vapor lock, but we can not determine where in
> the fuel system the overheating occurs, can we make the assumption that the
> factory understood the problem and moved the fuel pump to the right side of
> the then BT and BN7?s in January 1962 in order to fix it?  For instance do
> we have evidence/experience that the vapor lock is also occurring in cars
> built after the pump was relocated?
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, June 22, 2020 8:59 AM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Tapping Fuel Pump TIps
>
>
>
> Thanks, everyone, for your collective wisdom on the fuel pump. Given that
> the car restarted without issue after sitting in the parking lot of the
> winery for two hours, and when I filled up the tank on the way back to the
> garage, with an 18 mpg indicated for the 75 mile run, I'm going to conclude
> that it was just vapor lock from the 15 miles in traffic at 95 degrees
> during the middle of the day.
>
> Thanks for giving me an explanation that fitted the circumstances and made
> me feel better about the day's experience. Now I'm looking forward to
> getting up into the coastal mountains for more runs this summer. The car
> has been too many recent summers without any good touring, while I lived in
> the increasingly densely trafficked SF Bay Area. Really happy with all of
> this Covid stuff to be up here in idyllic Oregon.
>
>
>
> Best
>
> Gary Anderson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 08:14:22 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 14:14:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB3491DED96BDB11875C85CE80BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491DED96BDB11875C85CE80BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <425862574.1444787.1592835262505@mail.yahoo.com>

I am amazed that the old myth of a clothes pin or block of wood could act as a heat sink that would stop "vapor lock" continues to circulate. This defies basic thermo dynamics. Wood is not a good heat sink. It might provide some insulating benefit, but a few inches of it would not provide any significant benefit & if it did a better choice would be insulation.?Gary Hodson



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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Jun 20 11:16:57 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2020 17:16:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s
Message-ID: <92e365fce4c0ba18ac3cf957038ee76388a4e38d@webmail>

Picture this around 1961-1962...boom times for BMC...there is a huge
rack of engines and transmissions just adjacent to the production line
at Abingdon. The cars are coming down the rail and they expect to do
maybe 30 cars that day. The design/engineering department has just
introduced a revised centre change gearbox and they are in production
now. A truck is unloading them and stacking them on the shelves.
Due to the frugal attitude of BMC, all existing parts must be used up
before any new items can be introduced into production. So as the line
progressed the side shifter box inventory is exhausted and now the
centre shift is being installed...opps, one guy just located another
side shifter-stick in the next car coming down the line. Get it out
the door...
My take on the "records", Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Earl Kagna" 
To: "Neil Anderson", "ROBERT BROWN", "Bob Haskell"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Saturday June 20 2020 9:48:00AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

Gentlemen:

 It has been my understanding that BN7 / BT7 was overlapped with the
start of 
 BJ7 production.

 I am looking at Clausagers book on page 89, which gives beginning and
ending 
 VIN #s (and dates) for all 3000's. Assuming that this table is
accurate, 
 this is exactly why it is next to impossible to determine the number
of top 
 shift BN7's - because of the undetermined number of BJ7's
interspersed. As 
 Steve says, it would take someone to go through all of the individual

 production records during that period to get a more-or-less accurate
count.

 I recall (from many, many years ago) that a couple of knowledgeable
tri-carb 
 guru's best estimates of top shift BN7's was somewhere between 120
and 140 
 of the total 355 built.

 Earl Kagna
 Victoria, B.C.
 BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

 -----Original Message----- 
 From: Bob Haskell
 Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:34 AM
 To: Neil Anderson ; ROBERT BROWN
 Cc: Healeys
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Number of Center-change BN7s

 Matches Clausager's book:

 Year RHD RHD LHD LHD
 home export export NA
 1961 25 2 53 134
 1962 9 3 4 125
 Total 34 5 57 259

 Cheers,

 Bob Haskell
 Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1]  
 Unsubscribe/Manage: 

Links:
------
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 09:46:34 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 08:46:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>

wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.

On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Gary -
>
> If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
> vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
> trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
> into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
> because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
> overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
> use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
> line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
> days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season
>> -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
>> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
>> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
>> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>>
>> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
>> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
>> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
>> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
>> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
>> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>>
>> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
>> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
>> at all times.
>>
>> Anyone?
>>
>> Gary Anderson
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 09:50:38 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 08:50:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <74a309cb-0172-8122-af15-8783d8438456@earthlink.net>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462B08366907AD904994E85D1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <74a309cb-0172-8122-af15-8783d8438456@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0DD4D73DE60A4F5087B4D083DE92B225@DavidNockHP>

According to Clausangers Book The Original Austin Healey
The RHD  BN7 MK2 is the rarest Healey built

RHD  61   27 cars built
         62   12 cars built

LHD   61   187 cars built
          62   129 cars built

Total 100/S production 55 cars


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

A tri-carb with a side shift is probably rarer these days.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 2:22 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
> This car as illustrated on the cover of the Haynes Manual also has the two 
> rare spare tire bars which, combined with triple carbs and wood dash makes 
> it extremely rare, probably worth a lot more than any other Austin-Healey 
> except the 100S.
>
> This is the kind of absurd description that auction houses are using to 
> prop up the price of otherwise ordinary cars, making bidders believe that 
> they can acquire a really rare car when in reality they were built in the 
> thousand of not in some cases, millions.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Bob Haskell <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> *Sent: *June 20, 2020 12:34 PM
> *To: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] BT7
>
> Simon,
>
> That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.  The number
> you have is about right based on other cars.  The entry is from 1998
> with no contact info.
>
> Perry,
>
> Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the
> manual.  Tri-carb with wood dash.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>  > I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center
>  > shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri 
> carb
>  > setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8.
>  > Something is amiss?
>  >
>  > Perry
>  >
>  > Sent from Mail 
> <https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f289ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637282712411843032&amp;sdata=szJ5X2KPucEY6YjviGlSOvLrrh27l3X3W%2BksJTNP6ag%3D&amp;reserved=0> 
> for
>  > Windows 10
>  >
>  > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>  > <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>  > *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
>  > *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>  > *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
>  >
>  > This talk of BN7s reminds me?
>  >
>  > I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From 
> the
>  > US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
>  >
>  > Looking at it now, I see that there?s a rather nice sketch on the front
>  > cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an
>  > auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein?.
>  >
>  > The inside cover is inscribed:
>  >
>  > Engine  29E/RU/H3146
>  >
>  > Car        HBT7 L 16610
>  >
>  > Anyone we know?
>  >
>  > (If I?ve copied it down wrong/the numbers don?t make sense, the guy?s
>  > ?6?s were pretty ropey).
>  >
>  > Simon
>  >
>  >
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > Support Team.Net 
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>  > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>  > Archive: 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 22 10:01:56 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 16:01:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <425862574.1444787.1592835262505@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <BN8PR15MB3491DED96BDB11875C85CE80BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>,
 <425862574.1444787.1592835262505@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB349125D288D1E72F33A8457CBF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Agree with the old wives tales or folk medicine doctor tips working or not. Still fun to hear about.

When the wooden clothes pin idea was first mentioned on this list awhile back I recall my dad using that on his old flatheads to solve vapor locks. Other friends also said their dads used the same technique and swore by it.
I went with the insulation as all my wooden clothes pins I used for drying my clothes on sailboat lifelines.

Regards,
Richard C


On Jun 22, 2020, at 09:14, "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

?
I am amazed that the old myth of a clothes pin or block of wood could act as a heat sink that would stop "vapor lock" continues to circulate. This defies basic thermo dynamics. Wood is not a good heat sink. It might provide some insulating benefit, but a few inches of it would not provide any significant benefit & if it did a better choice would be insulation.
Gary Hodson



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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 10:59:13 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 12:59:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New 100 Price
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjqpJ6BM3V7DdoJ7YN0Pcv-LZMnVstzgqwgiEpiAu3BKsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAHZDnjqpJ6BM3V7DdoJ7YN0Pcv-LZMnVstzgqwgiEpiAu3BKsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1592845163.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

And the biggest issue in trying to figure out the amount of tax is that we are looking at a new Austin Healey in 1953. I wonder what the internet will serve up on the question, What was the US or State sales or applicable taxes on a new imported car in 1953?.. Google was silent.  Of course perhaps I asked the question incorrectly.  Where is Alexa when you need her!

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Neil Anderson
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 9:52 AM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New 100 Price

Even in a region of the East Coast, state and local taxes and transport from entry point would probably be slightly different for every dealership, which would make the buyer price different.? There would be no uniform national tax.

Neil Anderson?


On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 2:10 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
Hello
?
Is anyone able to tell me the cost of a new Austin-Healey 100 in June 1953 on the US East Coast including applicable taxes?
?
The Road & Track test of July 1954 lists $2,985 but there is no mention of taxes.
?
Many thanks
?
Patrick Quinn


Virus-free. www.avast.com 
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 11:11:26 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 10:11:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New 100 Price
In-Reply-To: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
References: <015201d64863$d2be7e30$783b7a90$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_2KyyQma3Vs+SAWcziNxDx1P5AhAQNc8Mpdvn3xuKhfQ@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW that would be about $23000 usd today

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 12:10 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> Is anyone able to tell me the cost of a new Austin-Healey 100 in June 1953
> on the US East Coast including applicable taxes?
>
>
>
> The Road & Track test of July 1954 lists $2,985 but there is no mention of
> taxes.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 11:20:29 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 17:20:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>

Explain how they work, please.?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.?
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Gary -
If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.? It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
Best,
Alan
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?
Gary Anderson
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 11:32:26 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 10:32:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>

clothes pins act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the fuel lines.
easily moved about to locate best location.
worked on my 65 Oldsmobile that I got in 1973. and my Healey in the late
70s and 80s in Los Angeles.

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:20 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> Explain how they work, please.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>
> wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.
>
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Gary -
>
> If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
> vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
> trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
> into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
> because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
> overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
> use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
> line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
> days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season --
> 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>
> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>
> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
> at all times.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Gary Anderson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 22 11:38:21 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:38:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 master cyl lines lengths
Message-ID: <007201d648bb$ecf80610$c6e81230$@gmail.com>

Hell all:

 

Does anyone have the measurements for the brake- and clutch master cylinder
to reservoir lines on a BJ-8? 

 

I am replacing homemade lines installed by the P.O., and the lines received
from Moss differ by several inches!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 11:55:34 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 17:55:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1211611489.1569975.1592848534062@mail.yahoo.com>

I am going to assume by "draw heat away from the fuel line" you mean they block the heat from the exhaust system from being absorbed by the fuel line. That would mean that they act as an insulator between the heat source & the cooler fuel & fuel line. A cloths pin is about 1/2" wide. To have any measurable effect at all you would have to line the fuel line with cloths pins for several feet.?The purpose of a heat sink is to rapidly transfer heat from the heat source (exhaust) to another fluid (fuel line). Luckily, wood is not a good material for a heat sink.?
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>; Gary Anderson <Editorgary at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

clothes pins act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the fuel lines. easily moved about to locate best location.worked on my 65 Oldsmobile that I got in 1973. and my Healey in the late 70s and 80s in Los Angeles.?
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:20 AM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

Explain how they work, please.?Gary Hodson




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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 22 12:08:15 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 18:08:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1211611489.1569975.1592848534062@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1211611489.1569975.1592848534062@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB34912180FD81CD3EE2D75023BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Just to continue the vapor lock talk, I don?t think my early BN7 had a heat shield on it as OEM. So several years ago after not driving much in the hot summers due to vapor lock issues,  I bought a used but good heatshield  from someone on the list to put between the carbs and the intake manifold.
I have yet to put it on as it sits on the pile of ?to do? things but I am sure it would help as well.

Regards,
Richard C


On Jun 22, 2020, at 13:00, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
I am going to assume by "draw heat away from the fuel line" you mean they block the heat from the exhaust system from being absorbed by the fuel line. That would mean that they act as an insulator between the heat source & the cooler fuel & fuel line. A cloths pin is about 1/2" wide. To have any measurable effect at all you would have to line the fuel line with cloths pins for several feet.
The purpose of a heat sink is to rapidly transfer heat from the heat source (exhaust) to another fluid (fuel line). Luckily, wood is not a good material for a heat sink.
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>; Gary Anderson <Editorgary at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

clothes pins act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the fuel lines. easily moved about to locate best location.
worked on my 65 Oldsmobile that I got in 1973. and my Healey in the late 70s and 80s in Los Angeles.

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:20 AM <warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
Explain how they work, please.
Gary Hodson



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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Mon Jun 22 13:17:29 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 20:17:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR15MB34912180FD81CD3EE2D75023BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1211611489.1569975.1592848534062@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BN8PR15MB34912180FD81CD3EE2D75023BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <004801d648c9$c5f0b040$51d210c0$@btinternet.com>

If one is going to fit a carburettor heat shield for the first time, stainless steel would be a good choice of material since it is a three times better insulator than carbon steel.  Then, make a stainless piece the same shape as the old asbestos, attach it with bolts with a nut between the two for a spacer, for an improved version.

 

Ian

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 22 June 2020 19:08
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net; eyera3000 at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

 

Just to continue the vapor lock talk, I don?t think my early BN7 had a heat shield on it as OEM. So several years ago after not driving much in the hot summers due to vapor lock issues,  I bought a used but good heatshield  from someone on the list to put between the carbs and the intake manifold. 

I have yet to put it on as it sits on the pile of ?to do? things but I am sure it would help as well.

Regards, 

Richard C

 





On Jun 22, 2020, at 13:00, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

? 

I am going to assume by "draw heat away from the fuel line" you mean they block the heat from the exhaust system from being absorbed by the fuel line. That would mean that they act as an insulator between the heat source & the cooler fuel & fuel line. A cloths pin is about 1/2" wide. To have any measurable effect at all you would have to line the fuel line with cloths pins for several feet.  

The purpose of a heat sink is to rapidly transfer heat from the heat source (exhaust) to another fluid (fuel line). Luckily, wood is not a good material for a heat sink. 

Gary



-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >
To: warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
Cc: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com> >; Gary Anderson <Editorgary at aol.com <mailto:Editorgary at aol.com> >; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

clothes pins act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the fuel lines. easily moved about to locate best location. 

worked on my 65 Oldsmobile that I got in 1973. and my Healey in the late 70s and 80s in Los Angeles. 

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:20 AM <warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> > wrote:

Explain how they work, please.  

Gary Hodson



 

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 22 13:30:20 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 19:30:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <004801d648c9$c5f0b040$51d210c0$@btinternet.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz890BABbB8wxpRC9GRrg=HCA=d8qA2J6oP10jRrQxbRL8w@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1211611489.1569975.1592848534062@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BN8PR15MB34912180FD81CD3EE2D75023BF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>,
 <004801d648c9$c5f0b040$51d210c0$@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB34914B792A65DD54438488CEBF970@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Agree;
mine is an original with the asbestos still on it in ok condition. That doesn?t concern me.
My minor issue ( other than being lazy) is I have 3 spacers between the manifold and the carbs and no room on the studs for nuts to be put on if I install the shield unless I drop a spacer.
I just need to do it as I have ample time these days unfortunately due to CV19
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


On Jun 22, 2020, at 14:20, Ian Hey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
If one is going to fit a carburettor heat shield for the first time, stainless steel would be a good choice of material since it is a three times better insulator than carbon steel.  Then, make a stainless piece the same shape as the old asbestos, attach it with bolts with a nut between the two for a spacer, for an improved version.

Ian

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 22 June 2020 19:08
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net; eyera3000 at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

Just to continue the vapor lock talk, I don?t think my early BN7 had a heat shield on it as OEM. So several years ago after not driving much in the hot summers due to vapor lock issues,  I bought a used but good heatshield  from someone on the list to put between the carbs and the intake manifold.
I have yet to put it on as it sits on the pile of ?to do? things but I am sure it would help as well.
Regards,
Richard C



On Jun 22, 2020, at 13:00, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
?
I am going to assume by "draw heat away from the fuel line" you mean they block the heat from the exhaust system from being absorbed by the fuel line. That would mean that they act as an insulator between the heat source & the cooler fuel & fuel line. A cloths pin is about 1/2" wide. To have any measurable effect at all you would have to line the fuel line with cloths pins for several feet.
The purpose of a heat sink is to rapidly transfer heat from the heat source (exhaust) to another fluid (fuel line). Luckily, wood is not a good material for a heat sink.
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com<mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>>
To: warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com<mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>>; Gary Anderson <Editorgary at aol.com<mailto:Editorgary at aol.com>>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
clothes pins act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the fuel lines. easily moved about to locate best location.
worked on my 65 Oldsmobile that I got in 1973. and my Healey in the late 70s and 80s in Los Angeles.

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 10:20 AM <warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
Explain how they work, please.
Gary Hodson


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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Jun 23 01:10:49 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 17:10:49 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] BT7
In-Reply-To: <0DD4D73DE60A4F5087B4D083DE92B225@DavidNockHP>
References: <000601d64719$4bec2510$e3c46f30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20200620163945.B1AD5A0EB3@autox.team.net>
 <bbed6113-5b0d-33d7-b1d9-f4c0b1472cba@earthlink.net>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462B08366907AD904994E85D1990@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <74a309cb-0172-8122-af15-8783d8438456@earthlink.net>
 <0DD4D73DE60A4F5087B4D083DE92B225@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <014f01d6492d$6d290890$477b19b0$@tpg.com.au>

Thanks David

As mentioned there are two '62 RHD BN7s in Australia and one went to New
Zealand, so that leaves nine and five of these became Works Rally Cars so
just four were sold to the UK market.

There was one BN3/1 built and one BN3/4.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Nock
Sent: Tuesday, 23 June 2020 1:51 AM
To: Jean Caron; Bob Haskell
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

According to Clausangers Book The Original Austin Healey
The RHD  BN7 MK2 is the rarest Healey built

RHD  61   27 cars built
         62   12 cars built

LHD   61   187 cars built
          62   129 cars built

Total 100/S production 55 cars


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Haskell
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7

A tri-carb with a side shift is probably rarer these days.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/20/20 2:22 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
> This car as illustrated on the cover of the Haynes Manual also has the two

> rare spare tire bars which, combined with triple carbs and wood dash makes

> it extremely rare, probably worth a lot more than any other Austin-Healey 
> except the 100S.
>
> This is the kind of absurd description that auction houses are using to 
> prop up the price of otherwise ordinary cars, making bidders believe that 
> they can acquire a really rare car when in reality they were built in the 
> thousand of not in some cases, millions.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Bob Haskell <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> *Sent: *June 20, 2020 12:34 PM
> *To: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] BT7
>
> Simon,
>
> That VIN is in the registry, but no engine serial number.  The number
> you have is about right based on other cars.  The entry is from 1998
> with no contact info.
>
> Perry,
>
> Simon was referring to the illustration on the front cover of the
> manual.  Tri-carb with wood dash.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 6/20/20 12:28 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>  > I would make a guess that 16610 was produced in Dec 1961 with a center
>  > shift gearbox, fuel pump on left side of car, later water pump, tri 
> carb
>  > setup, vertical grill slats, not a convertible, therefore not a BJ8.
>  > Something is amiss.
>  >
>  > Perry
>  >
>  > Sent from Mail 
>
<https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.micros
oft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&amp;data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf8e686a31c9342f2
89ab08d815401d9d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C63728271241184
3032&amp;sdata=szJ5X2KPucEY6YjviGlSOvLrrh27l3X3W%2BksJTNP6ag%3D&amp;reserved
=0> 
> for
>  > Windows 10
>  >
>  > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>  > <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>  > *Sent: *Saturday, June 20, 2020 11:53 AM
>  > *To: *'Healeys' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>  > *Subject: *[Healeys] BT7
>  >
>  > This talk of BN7s reminds me.
>  >
>  > I bought a copy of the 100/6 & 3000 Haynes second hand in 2000. From 
> the
>  > US. They were hard to find over here in those days. Paperback version.
>  >
>  > Looking at it now, I see that there's a rather nice sketch on the front
>  > cover of an interesting looking BJ8 with a tricarb engine. Hardly an
>  > auspicious indication of the accuracy to be expected therein..
>  >
>  > The inside cover is inscribed:
>  >
>  > Engine  29E/RU/H3146
>  >
>  > Car        HBT7 L 16610
>  >
>  > Anyone we know?
>  >
>  > (If I've copied it down wrong/the numbers don't make sense, the guy's
>  > "6"s were pretty ropey).
>  >
>  > Simon
>  >
>  >
>  > _______________________________________________
>  > Support Team.Net 
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>  >
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>  > 
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>
>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Jun 23 09:13:25 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 11:13:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock caused by heat from engine on fuel lines
Message-ID: <097501d64970$d7d25960$87770c20$@gmail.com>

Gentlemen:

 

Here is a comment in Hemmings: https://tinyurl.com/ychuac87

Which puts the matter to rest.

 

I will use Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Shield
Protection Barrier Cover As offered by Amazon, Grainger, Summit and others
to reduce the chance of Vapor Lock rather than clothes pins.  

 

I should have wrapped my exhaust pipes with heat covers before installing
them earlier this year.  More logical to reduce heat from effecting the fuel
and carbs from operating.  

 

Another couple of things to do on my Healey so I can drive long distances
comfortably in South Florida.

 

By the way, I wrapped my exhaust pipes from my diesel engine in my sailboat
to reduce the amount of heat in the cabin when motoring to make in more
comfortable.  Something the boat makers did not do when building the boat.
Also, I added 3 times the heat and sound barrier to the engine compartment
for the same reason.  Just as I have done to the floor, firewall and tunnel
of my Healey.

 

 

 

Bob Begani

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From rvmaylor at shaw.ca  Tue Jun 23 09:48:12 2020
From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 09:48:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length.
Message-ID: <001001d64975$b4672c30$1d358490$@shaw.ca>

Hi All

The BN6 water temperature sensor is located in the radiator and the
capillary tube runs along the right side of the engine bay. The capillary
tube must be longer than the later cars. Would anyone know the length of the
capillary tube for a LHD BN6?

 

Thank you. 

Ross 

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Tue Jun 23 10:04:46 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 09:04:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length.
In-Reply-To: <001001d64975$b4672c30$1d358490$@shaw.ca>
References: <001001d64975$b4672c30$1d358490$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <E03FCC65884F43BD868B45B15590C0C2@DavidNockHP>

Look on the nut at the radiator end and the length was stamped in the side of the nut.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Ross Maylor 
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 8:48 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length.

Hi All

The BN6 water temperature sensor is located in the radiator and the capillary tube runs along the right side of the engine bay. The capillary tube must be longer than the later cars. Would anyone know the length of the capillary tube for a LHD BN6?

 

Thank you. 

Ross 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From rvmaylor at shaw.ca  Tue Jun 23 12:25:46 2020
From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 12:25:46 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length.
In-Reply-To: <E03FCC65884F43BD868B45B15590C0C2@DavidNockHP>
References: <001001d64975$b4672c30$1d358490$@shaw.ca>
 <E03FCC65884F43BD868B45B15590C0C2@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <21798732.412885927.1592936746768.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>

Thanks David, I don't have that end anymore. I sent it off for repair and it came back very well done but too short. 


From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at gmail.com> 
To: "rvmaylor" <rvmaylor at shaw.ca>, "Forum Lista" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 10:04:46 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length. 

Look on the nut at the radiator end and the length was stamped in the side of the nut. 
David Nock 
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 
209 948 8767 
www.britishcarspecialists.com 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at. 
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org 
From: Ross Maylor 
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 8:48 AM 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 LHD Water temp capillary tube length. 


Hi All 

The BN6 water temperature sensor is located in the radiator and the capillary tube runs along the right side of the engine bay. The capillary tube must be longer than the later cars. Would anyone know the length of the capillary tube for a LHD BN6? 



Thank you. 

Ross 



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 23 20:36:57 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 19:36:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
Message-ID: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>

I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord 
attachment.? Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam 
(getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).

The message was:

"Please open the attached file.

Thank you,
Dudley Haines
Vice President
Austin Healey Club USA"

Bob

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 23 21:48:42 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 20:48:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <aab54795-ec78-e74b-5b30-7ff26f48728d@comcast.net>

Got some confirmation from another club member, the doc is legit. Guess 
I'm suspicious these days.

Bob

On 6/23/2020 7:36 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord 
> attachment.? Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam 
> (getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).
>
> The message was:
>
> "Please open the attached file.
>
> Thank you,
> Dudley Haines
> Vice President
> Austin Healey Club USA"
>
> Bob


From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Jun 23 22:02:36 2020
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 21:02:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A862F6C7A8E48B29A95011D07378677@LeonardPCPC>


Bob:  I would not touch that with a 20 foot Social Distancing pole.

I do not know what computer access you use, but if I put my cursor on that 
link, an address shows up on the lower left corner of my computer screen. 
If it did not give any indication that it came from or is going to Dudley or 
the Austin Healey Club USA, I would say "SPAM or PHISHING".

Best bet is to call him or, as you have done, seek a 'go around' method of 
finding out.  And change your e-mail password.

Along the same lines, I received a suspicious e-mail. the other day similar 
to one I received several years ago.  The From address looked correct, from 
someone we know, but I was suspicious.  I telephoned him and he advised that 
his Contact List had been hacked and the message had not been sent by him. 
If I had responded with a "Reply" as requested, the bad quy would have 
received my response, not my friend.

Be careful out there!

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 7:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter


>I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord attachment. 
>Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam (getting a lot 
>lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).
>
> The message was:
>
> "Please open the attached file.
>
> Thank you,
> Dudley Haines
> Vice President
> Austin Healey Club USA"
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net
>
> 


From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 23 23:20:48 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 22:20:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <3A862F6C7A8E48B29A95011D07378677@LeonardPCPC>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
 <3A862F6C7A8E48B29A95011D07378677@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <d0857b24-abcf-76bd-d443-8719271caa0c@comcast.net>

It (appears) legit; it's basically a 'state of the club' message, with 
some forward-looking thoughts. The MSWord version I have, a few years 
old, opens in 'protected mode;' which, presumably, offers, some uh, 
'protection.'

ps. We're not paranoid, Len, they really are out to get us.

bs

On 6/23/2020 9:02 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
>
> Bob:? I would not touch that with a 20 foot Social Distancing pole.
>
> I do not know what computer access you use, but if I put my cursor on 
> that link, an address shows up on the lower left corner of my computer 
> screen. If it did not give any indication that it came from or is 
> going to Dudley or the Austin Healey Club USA, I would say "SPAM or 
> PHISHING".
>
> Best bet is to call him or, as you have done, seek a 'go around' 
> method of finding out.? And change your e-mail password.
>
> Along the same lines, I received a suspicious e-mail. the other day 
> similar to one I received several years ago.? The From address looked 
> correct, from someone we know, but I was suspicious.? I telephoned him 
> and he advised that his Contact List had been hacked and the message 
> had not been sent by him. If I had responded with a "Reply" as 
> requested, the bad quy would have received my response, not my friend.
>
> Be careful out there!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 7:36 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
>
>
>> I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord 
>> attachment. Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam 
>> (getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).
>>
>> The message was:
>>
>> "Please open the attached file.
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Dudley Haines
>> Vice President
>> Austin Healey Club USA"
>>
>> Bob


From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 23 23:38:39 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 22:38:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <d0857b24-abcf-76bd-d443-8719271caa0c@comcast.net>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
 <3A862F6C7A8E48B29A95011D07378677@LeonardPCPC>
 <d0857b24-abcf-76bd-d443-8719271caa0c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-jjnswHnBnnX_eopQCf75Y8RVRxD_EHtqYdEctcCS4Wg@mail.gmail.com>

verify with sender in another email before opening. just because you are
paranoid,  fies not mean they aren't out to get you

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 10:28 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> It (appears) legit; it's basically a 'state of the club' message, with
> some forward-looking thoughts. The MSWord version I have, a few years
> old, opens in 'protected mode;' which, presumably, offers, some uh,
> 'protection.'
>
> ps. We're not paranoid, Len, they really are out to get us.
>
> bs
>
> On 6/23/2020 9:02 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
> >
> > Bob:  I would not touch that with a 20 foot Social Distancing pole.
> >
> > I do not know what computer access you use, but if I put my cursor on
> > that link, an address shows up on the lower left corner of my computer
> > screen. If it did not give any indication that it came from or is
> > going to Dudley or the Austin Healey Club USA, I would say "SPAM or
> > PHISHING".
> >
> > Best bet is to call him or, as you have done, seek a 'go around'
> > method of finding out.  And change your e-mail password.
> >
> > Along the same lines, I received a suspicious e-mail. the other day
> > similar to one I received several years ago.  The From address looked
> > correct, from someone we know, but I was suspicious.  I telephoned him
> > and he advised that his Contact List had been hacked and the message
> > had not been sent by him. If I had responded with a "Reply" as
> > requested, the bad quy would have received my response, not my friend.
> >
> > Be careful out there!
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Fairfield, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 7:36 PM
> > Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
> >
> >
> >> I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord
> >> attachment. Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam
> >> (getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).
> >>
> >> The message was:
> >>
> >> "Please open the attached file.
> >>
> >> Thank you,
> >> Dudley Haines
> >> Vice President
> >> Austin Healey Club USA"
> >>
> >> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Jun 24 04:50:36 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 11:50:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <b7769235-01b6-5dba-ea86-179ea187d5b7@summaventures.com>

On some mail systems (eg Thunderbird) there is an option to view source
which you can use to look at mails without actually opening, It gives
you the ability to look at the headers and stuff.

But the Golden Rule is an always has been don't open mails with
attachments if you are AT ALL unsure about them.

Peter

On 24/06/2020 03:36, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord
> attachment.? Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam
> (getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).
> 
> The message was:
> 
> "Please open the attached file.
> 
> Thank you,
> Dudley Haines
> Vice President
> Austin Healey Club USA"
> 
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jun 24 06:34:08 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 08:34:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.18.1593002054.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

My email came from Roger Bono and it was or appears to be real as I was able to communicate back to Roger. It included  info promoting renewal of club membership dues.  Not through Roger but on the club website which seemed normal. In my case my dues were not expired and good until  next year. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 10:39 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter

I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord 
attachment.? Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam 
(getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters today alone).

The message was:

"Please open the attached file.

Thank you,
Dudley Haines
Vice President
Austin Healey Club USA"

Bob
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jun 24 08:18:53 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 07:18:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-jjnswHnBnnX_eopQCf75Y8RVRxD_EHtqYdEctcCS4Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9c569113-5952-5f52-0cd7-a0cd31edab1e@comcast.net>
 <3A862F6C7A8E48B29A95011D07378677@LeonardPCPC>
 <d0857b24-abcf-76bd-d443-8719271caa0c@comcast.net>
 <CABXhz8-jjnswHnBnnX_eopQCf75Y8RVRxD_EHtqYdEctcCS4Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46acd60f-442f-eec8-b87d-627c30db097b@comcast.net>

I did.

On 6/23/2020 10:38 PM, i erbs wrote:
> verify with sender in another email before opening. just because you 
> are paranoid,? fies not mean they aren't out to get you
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 10:28 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     It (appears) legit; it's basically a 'state of the club' message,
>     with
>     some forward-looking thoughts. The MSWord version I have, a few years
>     old, opens in 'protected mode;' which, presumably, offers, some uh,
>     'protection.'
>
>     ps. We're not paranoid, Len, they really are out to get us.
>
>     bs
>
>     On 6/23/2020 9:02 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
>     >
>     > Bob:? I would not touch that with a 20 foot Social Distancing pole.
>     >
>     > I do not know what computer access you use, but if I put my
>     cursor on
>     > that link, an address shows up on the lower left corner of my
>     computer
>     > screen. If it did not give any indication that it came from or is
>     > going to Dudley or the Austin Healey Club USA, I would say "SPAM or
>     > PHISHING".
>     >
>     > Best bet is to call him or, as you have done, seek a 'go around'
>     > method of finding out.? And change your e-mail password.
>     >
>     > Along the same lines, I received a suspicious e-mail. the other day
>     > similar to one I received several years ago.? The From address
>     looked
>     > correct, from someone we know, but I was suspicious.? I
>     telephoned him
>     > and he advised that his Contact List had been hacked and the
>     message
>     > had not been sent by him. If I had responded with a "Reply" as
>     > requested, the bad quy would have received my response, not my
>     friend.
>     >
>     > Be careful out there!
>     >
>     > (The Other) Len
>     > Fairfield, CA, USA
>     > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell"
>     <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>     > To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     > Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 7:36 PM
>     > Subject: [Healeys] AHCUSA Letter
>     >
>     >
>     >> I got an email (apparently) from Dudley Haines with an MSWord
>     >> attachment. Anybody know if this is legit, or is it phishing/spam
>     >> (getting a lot lately, I must have created a dozen filters
>     today alone).
>     >>
>     >> The message was:
>     >>
>     >> "Please open the attached file.
>     >>
>     >> Thank you,
>     >> Dudley Haines
>     >> Vice President
>     >> Austin Healey Club USA"
>     >>
>     >> Bob
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 11:38:19 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 13:38:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.19.1593011901.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

I just finished a 10 minute dash to the past on the internet looking at the clothes pin remedy.  We might as well start talking about motor oil again. Hope not!!!!
All kinds of claims and reasons why clothespins works or not. 
Lets run this bit past the mechanics/engineers/experienced AH owners (that?s all of you) out there. How much fuel pump pressure does it take to overcome the bubble caused by the vapor lock? It was suggested it only takes 5 PSI.
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 1:21 PM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healey.nut at gmail.com
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

Explain how they work, please.? 
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.?

On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Gary - 

If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.? It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.

Best,

Alan

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.

Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?

Gary Anderson

_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 22 11:42:26 2020
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 17:42:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1168934197.1370197.1592847746097@mail.yahoo.com>

 Turning liquid (gasoline) into vaper or gas (phase change from liquid to gas) requires HEAT input .Or pressure drop.....Insulate from heat, no vapor
Jim

    On Monday, June 22, 2020, 10:21:10 AM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Explain how they work, please.?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.?
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Gary -
If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.? It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
Best,
Alan
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?
Gary Anderson
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 12:00:18 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 18:00:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1145136878.1570710.1592848819003@mail.yahoo.com>

Lets first assume we are talking about a stock Austin-Healey. If it takes 5psi, you will never reach that with an SU fuel pump.?Depending on the model they put out approx. 2.8 psi or 3.8 psi.Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>; eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healey.nut at gmail.com <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com <Editorgary at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:38 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

#yiv8437299989 #yiv8437299989 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8437299989 #yiv8437299989 p.yiv8437299989MsoNormal, #yiv8437299989 li.yiv8437299989MsoNormal, #yiv8437299989 div.yiv8437299989MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8437299989 a:link, #yiv8437299989 span.yiv8437299989MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8437299989 .yiv8437299989MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv8437299989 div.yiv8437299989WordSection1 {}#yiv8437299989 I just finished a 10 minute dash to the past on the internet looking at the clothes pin remedy.? We might as well start talking about motor oil again. Hope not!!!!All kinds of claims and reasons why clothespins works or not. Lets run this bit past the mechanics/engineers/experienced AH owners (that?s all of you) out there. How much fuel pump pressure does it take to overcome the bubble caused by the vapor lock? It was suggested it only takes 5 PSI.P ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 1:21 PM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healey.nut at gmail.com
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump ?Explain how they work, please.? Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pumpwooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.? ?On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Gary -  ?If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.? It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps. ?Best, ?Alan ?On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.  ?Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times.  ?Anyone? ?Gary Anderson ?_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 22 12:03:20 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2020 18:03:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1168934197.1370197.1592847746097@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1168934197.1370197.1592847746097@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <290820661.1566512.1592849000114@mail.yahoo.com>

Jim,A cloths pin is 1/2" wide. Not enough insulation & definitely not a "heat sink".Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healey.nut at gmail.com <healey.nut at gmail.com>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com <editorgary at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

 Turning liquid (gasoline) into vaper or gas (phase change from liquid to gas) requires HEAT input .Or pressure drop.....Insulate from heat, no vapor
Jim

    On Monday, June 22, 2020, 10:21:10 AM PDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Explain how they work, please.?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.?
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Gary -
If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long trips.? It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
Best,
Alan
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?
Gary Anderson
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jun 24 09:59:04 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 17:59:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <20200624151859.127D1A25AA@autox.team.net>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200624151859.127D1A25AA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <23463db0-f2f1-d97f-4042-8527967a0af9@chello.nl>

That depends on the temperature of the fuel and the composition.

If it is under 3,8psi there is no problem as the pump delivers 3,8psi 
(that is the original equipment AUF 301/3/5 or its SU-Burlen replacement 
AZX1308)

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 22-6-2020 om 19:38 schreef Perry via Healeys:
>
> I just finished a 10 minute dash to the past on the internet looking 
> at the clothes pin remedy.? We might as well start talking about motor 
> oil again. Hope not!!!!
>
> All kinds of claims and reasons why clothespins works or not.
>
> Lets run this bit past the mechanics/engineers/experienced AH owners 
> (that?s all of you) out there. How much fuel pump pressure does it 
> take to overcome the bubble caused by the vapor lock? It was suggested 
> it only takes 5 PSI.
>
> P
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *warthodson--- via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, June 22, 2020 1:21 PM
> *To: *eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>; 
> healey.nut at gmail.com <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *Editorgary at aol.com <mailto:Editorgary at aol.com>; 
> healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>
> Explain how they work, please.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>
> wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.
>
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hi Gary -
>
>     If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be
>     indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can
>     happen at the end of long trips. It's because the fuel starts
>     vaporizing around where the line goes into the floats, and the
>     float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is
>     pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the overflow
>     tube.? As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
>     use more fuel than normal.? Try wiring a piece of wood to the
>     incoming fuel line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as
>     a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which
>     use mechanical fuel pumps.
>
>     Best,
>
>     Alan
>
>     On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>         Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of
>         the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with
>         our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from
>         start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button
>         after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to
>         finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>
>
>         Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day
>         (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was
>         cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at
>         a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough
>         so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec
>         points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years
>         ago and running without any issues every since.
>
>         Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat?
>         As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting
>         through the carbs smoothly at all times.
>
>         Anyone?
>
>         Gary Anderson
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jun 24 11:37:57 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 13:37:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <20200624151927.91343A2612@autox.team.net>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200624151927.91343A2612@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.22.1593020282.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
OK. Since Gary wrote to the list several days ago and twenty plus emails since, we have concluded that clothes pins should only be used for the originally intended use, pinning clothes and that the possibilities of vapor lock was not taken into the design of SU fuel pumps used on a Austin Healey. The designers did use a heat shield between the carbs and exhaust manifold perhaps with the intent to protect the fuel bowls for excess heat but as the 100 owners know the heat shield was only adjacent to the rear carb float bowl since there is no shield on the front carb.  By the way the front float bowl and the exhaust manifold are only 1 inch apart.  Suspect that the proximity of the 100?s four blade fan (read hurricane force fan-?) was enough to quench any heat problems on the front carb.

For the later cars the heat shield covered it all and supposedly prevented any expected problems in the fuel delivery department. 

So where does all this rambling bring us to? 
For me it still begs the question, Where does the vapor lock begin? 

Temps at the exhaust manifold can be in the 300+ degree range (unless you are screaming around a race track) but the tail pipe will probably be about a third of that when the car is in motion. So the proximity of the fuel line to the heat source varies front to rear. I mentioned the factory moving the fuel pump to the right side of the later cars.  I suspect that there was a reason for that change. I?m not sure if Gary?s car has the pump on the left or right side. 

Any one want to write email 24+ on this subject?

This is what happens when you wear a mask and rebreathe your own exhaust all day?I anxiously await your feedback. And perhaps a tank of oxygen!
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10






On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.

Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since. 

Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly at all times. 

Anyone?

Gary Anderson



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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jun 24 11:39:47 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 13:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <23463db0-f2f1-d97f-4042-8527967a0af9@chello.nl>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200624151859.127D1A25AA@autox.team.net>
 <23463db0-f2f1-d97f-4042-8527967a0af9@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+gajyrHbiNj7pYVTL7_t8OZZWsyJV+e4um_wesacAWdw@mail.gmail.com>

Wait, wait , wait .....
If the pump is going tickety tick then there is gaseous fuel in the pump!!!
If there is gaseous fuel in the pump nothing, absolutely nothing that you
do to the fuel lines after the pump, be it mumbo jumbo or abrakadabra, will
stop the pump from ticking.

M

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:01 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> That depends on the temperature of the fuel and the composition.
>
> If it is under 3,8psi there is no problem as the pump delivers 3,8psi
> (that is the original equipment AUF 301/3/5 or its SU-Burlen replacement
> AZX1308)
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 22-6-2020 om 19:38 schreef Perry via Healeys:
>
> I just finished a 10 minute dash to the past on the internet looking at
> the clothes pin remedy.  We might as well start talking about motor oil
> again. Hope not!!!!
>
> All kinds of claims and reasons why clothespins works or not.
>
> Lets run this bit past the mechanics/engineers/experienced AH owners
> (that?s all of you) out there. How much fuel pump pressure does it take to
> overcome the bubble caused by the vapor lock? It was suggested it only
> takes 5 PSI.
>
> P
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, June 22, 2020 1:21 PM
> *To: *eyera3000 at gmail.com; healey.nut at gmail.com
> *Cc: *Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>
>
>
> Explain how they work, please.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>
> wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Gary -
>
>
>
> If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
> vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
> trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
> into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
> because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
> overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
> use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
> line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
> days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season --
> 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>
>
> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
> at all times.
>
>
>
> Anyone?
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
>
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 24 12:59:41 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 11:59:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+gajyrHbiNj7pYVTL7_t8OZZWsyJV+e4um_wesacAWdw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56318762.1123695.1592788322491.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <56318762.1123695.1592788322491@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkJr+asHvTG6d0fTySaGj-f95u_PGu1so9t7EphaRs+v-g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-u3ZUNMau5Ndx-k5pep+cH2LNpJGuEWDKFpa0jxeyeTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1721144240.1541294.1592846429796@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200624151859.127D1A25AA@autox.team.net>
 <23463db0-f2f1-d97f-4042-8527967a0af9@chello.nl>
 <CAB3i7L+gajyrHbiNj7pYVTL7_t8OZZWsyJV+e4um_wesacAWdw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPcLpas81wo90UMjgE2xvft-hNG2=mJnkRxJ0w3rFNEcQ@mail.gmail.com>

All of this clothes pin on the fuel line business reminds me of the
detergent "ball" product that was marketed some years back. There were many
testimonials about how great this plastic ball worked to clean clothes in a
washing machine. Turns out it was all a scam. It was merely some type of
plastic ball. That's it. Nothing more. Only a plastic ball.  But there were
many believers.

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 10:40 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Wait, wait , wait .....
> If the pump is going tickety tick then there is gaseous fuel in the pump!!!
> If there is gaseous fuel in the pump nothing, absolutely nothing that you
> do to the fuel lines after the pump, be it mumbo jumbo or abrakadabra, will
> stop the pump from ticking.
>
> M
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:01 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
>> That depends on the temperature of the fuel and the composition.
>>
>> If it is under 3,8psi there is no problem as the pump delivers 3,8psi
>> (that is the original equipment AUF 301/3/5 or its SU-Burlen replacement
>> AZX1308)
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 22-6-2020 om 19:38 schreef Perry via Healeys:
>>
>> I just finished a 10 minute dash to the past on the internet looking at
>> the clothes pin remedy.  We might as well start talking about motor oil
>> again. Hope not!!!!
>>
>> All kinds of claims and reasons why clothespins works or not.
>>
>> Lets run this bit past the mechanics/engineers/experienced AH owners
>> (that?s all of you) out there. How much fuel pump pressure does it take to
>> overcome the bubble caused by the vapor lock? It was suggested it only
>> takes 5 PSI.
>>
>> P
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *Monday, June 22, 2020 1:21 PM
>> *To: *eyera3000 at gmail.com; healey.nut at gmail.com
>> *Cc: *Editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>>
>>
>>
>> Explain how they work, please.
>>
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> <healey.nut at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
>>
>> wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Gary -
>>
>>
>>
>> If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be indicative of
>> vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen at the end of long
>> trips.  It's because the fuel starts vaporizing around where the line goes
>> into the floats, and the float jet then is no longer cutting off fuel flow
>> because it is pushing vapor into the float bowls, which leaks out the
>> overflow tube.  As long as your car is running it should be okay, you might
>> use more fuel than normal.  Try wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel
>> line - this is an old trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot
>> days and stop vapor lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best,
>>
>>
>>
>> Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the season
>> -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local Rogue Euro Car
>> Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish. Car started on the
>> first push of the button after sitting for six weeks, ran smoothly from
>> start to finish, never faltered in restarts, everything nominal.
>>
>>
>> Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid 90s
>> though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along about 40
>> mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed and pretty
>> continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind me. I have a
>> standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased new from Moss
>> about 10 years ago and running without any issues every since.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As noted,
>> the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the carbs smoothly
>> at all times.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone?
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Anderson
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jun 24 17:24:49 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 23:24:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>

My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.? 90+ most days.? The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.? Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.? His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.? Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.? I have not been able to put one clip in.? Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.? I could not get it to go.? Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.? I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.Mike MacLean






Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jun 24 17:47:48 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 19:47:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DCE7C28A-D019-4F32-A347-3A26158A99FD@rogers.com>

You might enquire with some other suppliers- I know I found the after market clips really stiff, brittle and hard to work with.
I ended up urethras-using the originals, after cleaning them up and painting them.

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 24, 2020, at 7:24 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.  90+ most days.  The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.  Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.  His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.  Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.  I have not been able to put one clip in.  Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.  I could not get it to go.  Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.  I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.
> Mike MacLean
> <20200623_204913.jpg>
> <20200623_201026.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature><20200623_204913.jpg><20200623_201026.jpg>_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jun 24 17:53:32 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 19:53:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <DCE7C28A-D019-4F32-A347-3A26158A99FD@rogers.com>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DCE7C28A-D019-4F32-A347-3A26158A99FD@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <6A101D34-A470-4561-92B0-21A8D24295E3@rogers.com>

Boy that was a weird auto correct!  ? Using" became ?urethras??.yikes!
I kept the two VERY separate, believe me.

> On Jun 24, 2020, at 7:47 PM, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
> 
> You might enquire with some other suppliers- I know I found the after market clips really stiff, brittle and hard to work with.
> I ended up urethras-using the originals, after cleaning them up and painting them.
> 
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> On Jun 24, 2020, at 7:24 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.  90+ most days.  The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.  Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.  His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.  Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.  I have not been able to put one clip in.  Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.  I could not get it to go.  Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.  I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.
>> Mike MacLean
>> <20200623_204913.jpg>
>> <20200623_201026.jpg>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature><20200623_204913.jpg><20200623_201026.jpg>_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Jun 24 19:05:07 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 13:05:07 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004a01d64a8c$ac3bded0$04b39c70$@xtra.co.nz>

Mike,

I might be barking up the wrong tree, here, but your bag is labelled CLIP FUEL PIPE.

In my experience they DO NOT double as hydraulic line clips.

This is a larger clip to fit the fuel line which has a bigger OD than the hydraulic lines.

The clips for the brake lines are smaller OD as they have to transmit only pressure, not volume.

I assume they will have smaller holes in the chassis ? otherwise they wouldn?t provide a secure fit.

Perhaps this might be the reason they don?t fit in the holes - they are too big.

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 25 June 2020 11:25 a.m.
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

 

My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.  90+ most days.  The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.  Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.  His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.  Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.  I have not been able to put one clip in.  Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.  I could not get it to go.  Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.  I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.

Mike MacLean

 

          

 

 

 

 






Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jun 24 19:23:03 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 21:23:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <004a01d64a8c$ac3bded0$04b39c70$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
 <004a01d64a8c$ac3bded0$04b39c70$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1593048191.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Moss shows those clips as fitting a 100 brake line and a Sprite fuel line. Two different size lines as Mark pointed out. Again something is amiss.
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Mark Donaldson
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:06 PM
To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

Mike,
I might be barking up the wrong tree, here, but your bag is labelled CLIP FUEL PIPE.
In my experience they DO NOT double as hydraulic line clips.
This is a larger clip to fit the fuel line which has a bigger OD than the hydraulic lines.
The clips for the brake lines are smaller OD as they have to transmit only pressure, not volume.
I assume they will have smaller holes in the chassis ? otherwise they wouldn?t provide a secure fit.
Perhaps this might be the reason they don?t fit in the holes - they are too big.

Mark
Ardmore
NZ

From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 25 June 2020 11:25 a.m.
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.? 90+ most days.? The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.? Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.? His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.? Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.? I have not been able to put one clip in.? Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.? I could not get it to go.? Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.? I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.
Mike MacLean

????????? 






Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 24 20:00:51 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:00:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <20200625013455.7D83EA2C18@autox.team.net>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
 <004a01d64a8c$ac3bded0$04b39c70$@xtra.co.nz>,
 <20200625013455.7D83EA2C18@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <MW3PR22MB228486F16FC107D1A0509748D1920@MW3PR22MB2284.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Moss offers only one part number for the two, brakes and fuel lines while AH Spares offers two part number , one for each the fuel line and the brake line.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Perry via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: June 24, 2020 8:34 PM
To: Mark Donaldson<mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

Moss shows those clips as fitting a 100 brake line and a Sprite fuel line. Two different size lines as Mark pointed out. Again something is amiss.
P

Sent from Mail<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C6c53a26f440e44b80d9908d818a7f73c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637286456972970959&sdata=dU7n7lIYBeYEIb4T%2BFy8q00kq%2FkDGNaBQNvzGkRkq%2FY%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10

From: Mark Donaldson<mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:06 PM
To: rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>; 'Healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

Mike,
I might be barking up the wrong tree, here, but your bag is labelled CLIP FUEL PIPE.
In my experience they DO NOT double as hydraulic line clips.
This is a larger clip to fit the fuel line which has a bigger OD than the hydraulic lines.
The clips for the brake lines are smaller OD as they have to transmit only pressure, not volume.
I assume they will have smaller holes in the chassis ? otherwise they wouldn?t provide a secure fit.
Perhaps this might be the reason they don?t fit in the holes - they are too big.

Mark
Ardmore
NZ

From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, 25 June 2020 11:25 a.m.
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips

My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.  90+ most days.  The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.  Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.  His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.  Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.  I have not been able to put one clip in.  Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.  I could not get it to go.  Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.  I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.
Mike MacLean

[cid:image003.jpg at 01D64A6D.A3EA4BA0]          [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64A6D.A3EA4BA0]





Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.onelink.me%2F107872968%3Fpid%3DInProduct%26c%3DGlobal_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers%26af_wl%3Dym%26af_sub1%3DInternal%26af_sub2%3DGlobal_YGrowth%26af_sub3%3DEmailSignature&data=02%7C01%7C%7C6c53a26f440e44b80d9908d818a7f73c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637286456972980955&sdata=GzZxy8E3ncMmbn6NnuV9sw7obgDZy6wFOeP4zZlu5uk%3D&reserved=0>


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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jun 24 20:07:59 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:07:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips
In-Reply-To: <MW3PR22MB228486F16FC107D1A0509748D1920@MW3PR22MB2284.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1074770842.3309857.1593041089574@mail.yahoo.com>
 <004a01d64a8c$ac3bded0$04b39c70$@xtra.co.nz>,
 <20200625013455.7D83EA2C18@autox.team.net>,
 <MW3PR22MB228486F16FC107D1A0509748D1920@MW3PR22MB2284.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR15MB184780855878908BF0116F20A5920@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

The fuel line is a larger diameter than the brake lines. The clips need to be the proper size to match the line size.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 2:00 AM
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; rrengineer.mike at att.net <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips


Moss offers only one part number for the two, brakes and fuel lines while AH Spares offers two part number , one for each the fuel line and the brake line.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



From: Perry via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: June 24, 2020 8:34 PM
To: Mark Donaldson<mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips



Moss shows those clips as fitting a 100 brake line and a Sprite fuel line. Two different size lines as Mark pointed out. Again something is amiss.

P



Sent from Mail<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C6c53a26f440e44b80d9908d818a7f73c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637286456972970959&sdata=dU7n7lIYBeYEIb4T%2BFy8q00kq%2FkDGNaBQNvzGkRkq%2FY%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10



From: Mark Donaldson<mailto:ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:06 PM
To: rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>; 'Healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips



Mike,

I might be barking up the wrong tree, here, but your bag is labelled CLIP FUEL PIPE.

In my experience they DO NOT double as hydraulic line clips.

This is a larger clip to fit the fuel line which has a bigger OD than the hydraulic lines.

The clips for the brake lines are smaller OD as they have to transmit only pressure, not volume.

I assume they will have smaller holes in the chassis ? otherwise they wouldn?t provide a secure fit.

Perhaps this might be the reason they don?t fit in the holes - they are too big.



Mark

Ardmore

NZ



From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, 25 June 2020 11:25 a.m.
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Line Clips



My BN2 project is slowly progressing, even in this Siuthern California heat.  90+ most days.  The garage is a hot box during the day, so I work mostly on the car after the sun goes down.  Last night I was instally my present brake lines i purchased years ago from the late Doug Finespanner.  His pre-bending was quite good and it was easy to figure out which line went where.  Then I came to installing the hairpin clips to locate the lines.  I have not been able to put one clip in.  Is there some technique to istalling these clips? I tried pinching the top tines with the brake line in the rounded seat and the pushing it in the hole.  I could not get it to go.  Anyone tell me exactly what the clip is supposed to look like, thickness of the clip, etc.  I have the clips supplied by Moss that double for the fuel lines.

Mike MacLean



[cid:image003.jpg at 01D64A6D.A3EA4BA0]          [cid:image004.jpg at 01D64A6D.A3EA4BA0]











Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.onelink.me%2F107872968%3Fpid%3DInProduct%26c%3DGlobal_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers%26af_wl%3Dym%26af_sub1%3DInternal%26af_sub2%3DGlobal_YGrowth%26af_sub3%3DEmailSignature&data=02%7C01%7C%7C6c53a26f440e44b80d9908d818a7f73c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637286456972980955&sdata=GzZxy8E3ncMmbn6NnuV9sw7obgDZy6wFOeP4zZlu5uk%3D&reserved=0>




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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jun 25 06:20:34 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 08:20:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Memories
Message-ID: <mailman.25.1593087638.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Sometimes its about the cars, sometimes its about the pizza, most times its about the people. Happened upon this photo this morning that brought back a good memory.  
Thanks to all the Healey friends that have added to my experience with these funny little cars over the last 55 years.
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jun 25 08:00:35 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 10:00:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Stock Cooling Fan CFM
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1593093641.28011.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
About a month ago I posted to the list looking for a verification of a CFM calculation of the  stock 4 blade fan on a 100.   
Bill Atterbury responded that my numbers looked like they were off by a factor of 10. Bill was correct. 
After revisiting the question it looks like the CFM should be approximately:
Fan specs: 	Pitch= 1-1/8 inch 
       Overall diameter=14.75 inches 
CFM @ 700 RPM =310 CFM
CFM @1000 RPM =444 CFM
CFM @4000 RMP= 1776 CFM

So if you wonder why a small 12 inch electric fan that puts out 1250 CFM (FlexALite#111) seems to cool the 100 a lot better at idle
this may help to explain it, unless of course I have made another mistake. 
Thanks
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jun 25 09:21:11 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 15:21:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Stock Cooling Fan CFM
In-Reply-To: <20200625141434.71917A2D75@autox.team.net>
References: <20200625141434.71917A2D75@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <MWHPR15MB1855D1CE93E5FB9441C29D96A5920@MWHPR15MB1855.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Sounds more realistic. And remember that while the fan is moving that air it is soaking up power. I much prefer my electric fans.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 2:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Stock Cooling Fan CFM


Listers

About a month ago I posted to the list looking for a verification of a CFM calculation of the  stock 4 blade fan on a 100.

Bill Atterbury responded that my numbers looked like they were off by a factor of 10. Bill was correct.

After revisiting the question it looks like the CFM should be approximately:

Fan specs:           Pitch= 1-1/8 inch

Overall diameter=14.75 inches

CFM @ 700 RPM =310 CFM

CFM @1000 RPM =444 CFM

CFM @4000 RMP= 1776 CFM



So if you wonder why a small 12 inch electric fan that puts out 1250 CFM (FlexALite#111) seems to cool the 100 a lot better at idle

this may help to explain it, unless of course I have made another mistake.

Thanks

Perry



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Jun 25 10:18:54 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 09:18:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Memories
In-Reply-To: <20200625122117.745A4A2DE6@autox.team.net>
References: <20200625122117.745A4A2DE6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8fj9ffl98i2tsi91c2mdjep7hpc3d1idcf@4ax.com>

Warm memories and not just because we were on Oahu.  Thanks for the
memory reminder.

-Roland

On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 08:20:34 -0400, you wrote:

>Listers
>Sometimes its about the cars, sometimes its about the pizza, most times its about the people. Happened upon this photo this morning that brought back a good memory.  
>Thanks to all the Healey friends that have added to my experience with these funny little cars over the last 55 years.
>Perry
>
>
>Sent from Mail for Windows 10

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From manifold at telus.net  Thu Jun 25 20:15:08 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 19:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wood Seat Rail Packing
Message-ID: <B8E1F07FC45F4D64B5334ADDF41BD0FB@AllInOne>

Which way does the wood seat rail packing go? When I took the car apart,
albeit the car was in terrible condition and likely not original, the long
end was to back. I am fitting new carpets now and the carpets fit much
better with the long end to the front. See the attached picture of the two
possibilities. BTW if anyone wants a dimensioned drawing of the wood seat
rail packing let me know.
 
Thanks ... Harold
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 25 22:08:29 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2020 21:08:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wood Seat Rail Packing
In-Reply-To: <B8E1F07FC45F4D64B5334ADDF41BD0FB@AllInOne>
References: <B8E1F07FC45F4D64B5334ADDF41BD0FB@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <01a301d64b6f$7332f220$5998d660$@sbcglobal.net>

Test fit the seat rail and you will understand how the wood packing needs to
be installed.

 

You are welcome .. John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Wood Seat Rail Packing

 

Which way does the wood seat rail packing go? When I took the car apart,
albeit the car was in terrible condition and likely not original, the long
end was to back. I am fitting new carpets now and the carpets fit much
better with the long end to the front. See the attached picture of the two
possibilities. BTW if anyone wants a dimensioned drawing of the wood seat
rail packing let me know.

 

Thanks .. Harold

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 26 08:50:44 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 10:50:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3/8 BSF studs
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKq+3KWYJ+dAuv0uRZQEtiBgm58HZpOSwt1Yc6EQuUo2g@mail.gmail.com>

The 100 that I'm restoring has been previously "restored" so I'm being
pretty careful with threads and running taps and chasers through any that
look even slightly suspicious.
The exhaust flange studs on a 100 (2K7708) are 3/8" BSF and 3 years back
the ones on this engine looked to be in such good shape that I decided that
running a chaser down them wasn't necessary.
Silly me!!
With one of the last jobs being installing one of my specially made single
sweeping curve front pipes I confidently started running the BSF nuts up to
secure the flange. On the last one the nut started well but after a few
turns became tight .... as is my usual practice I decided to back it off
and run a chaser up the stud to clean up the thread.
Ahhh Houston  .... the nut had seized tight on the thread and despite every
trick the stud eventually broke off at the top of the thread.
Now this is on an engine that I have painstakingly restored however,  there
was no option but to remove all the manifolds to replace the stud ...
Only after all that did I discover that this 1 stud had been replaced with
a UNF and that was why the brass nut had locked onto it ...
Yeeech!!!!!
How was your day?
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Jun 26 10:13:45 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 12:13:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting on H6 carb
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B45O-aSUKn_73NeRtVD43tKji1-Wjw7kzYWO=yWjxX3dQ@mail.gmail.com>

Following a rebuild I am about to reinstall the H6 carbs on my 100.  The
mixture nuts are presently run all the way up to richest position and
because the nuts are somewhat difficult to access I would like to get the
initial mixture setting correct before mounting up the carbs.

Four full turns down (TOWARDS LEAN) sticks in my mind as being the
recommended starting point but I am not at all sure and would appreciate
input here.

TIA--Michael Oritt
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Jun 26 10:24:40 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 12:24:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting post (thinking upside down)
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7axiJmMvgfAUbkRQwUbGiJTuQx9qFdHMpRy4y_NDVMcg@mail.gmail.com>

In my last post I said that the nuts were adjusted all the way up to the
"richest" setting.  I was, of course, wrong and full up is the LEANEST
setting.  So my question is how many turns the jet nuts should be initially
dropped towards rich.

TIA--Michael Oritt
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Jun 26 10:26:25 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 16:26:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3/8 BSF studs
Message-ID: <bee77f8e634c5b03f667e0003a8059f78726cebd@webmail>

Michael- This is a common scene on the early cars. Happened to me,
often, as well as others I'm sure. The real "clue" to the issue is as
you said: "but after a few turns became tight"..as soon as I get that
indicator I get out my Whitworth thread gauge.
I'm currently working on a 100 transmission that had its studs
"modified"...I guess that's why we have British Tools and Fasteners in
Lyons, N.Y. Hopefully not too many mods to your car- studs are $4.50
each, but correct BSF thread. That issue cost me $50 to be able to
button up this gearbox to the overdrive. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Friday June 26 2020 7:55:29AM
Subject: [Healeys] 3/8 BSF studs

The 100 that I'm restoring has been previously "restored" so I'm being
pretty careful with threads and running taps and chasers through any
that look even slightly suspicious. The exhaust flange studs on a 100
(2K7708) are 3/8" BSF and 3 years back the ones on this engine looked
to be in such good shape that I decided that running a chaser down
them wasn't necessary. Silly me!!With one of the last jobs being
installing one of my specially made single sweeping curve front pipes
I confidently started running the BSF nuts up to secure the flange. On
the last one the nut started well but after a few turns became tight
.... as is my usual practice I decided to back it off and run a chaser
up the stud to clean up the thread.Ahhh Houston .... the nut had
seized tight on the thread and despite every trick the stud eventually
broke off at the top of the thread.Now this is on an engine that I
have painstakingly restored however, there was no option but to remove
all the manifolds to replace the stud ... Only after all that did I
discover that this 1 stud had been replaced with a UNF and that was
why the brass nut had locked onto it ...Yeeech!!!!!How was your day?

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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Fri Jun 26 10:38:57 2020
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 16:38:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting on H6 carb
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B45O-aSUKn_73NeRtVD43tKji1-Wjw7kzYWO=yWjxX3dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B45O-aSUKn_73NeRtVD43tKji1-Wjw7kzYWO=yWjxX3dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1811477838.2975284.1593189537093@mail.yahoo.com>

Mike,
My SU workshop manual for HD cabs shows: lowering the jet 2.5 turns. It also reminds you to first center the jet. Also, it recommends the slow-running valve be unscrewed 3.5 turns for the initial run-up to temperature.
I just redid my set of HD6 on my BN7 and these settings worked first time.
Ben CohenBN1, BN7 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 26, 2020 9:13 am
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting on H6 carb

Following a rebuild I am about to reinstall the H6 carbs on my 100.? The mixture nuts are presently run all the way up to richest position and because the nuts are somewhat difficult to access I would like to get the initial mixture setting correct before mounting up the carbs.??
Four full turns down (TOWARDS LEAN) sticks in my mind as being the recommended starting point but I am not at all sure and would appreciate input here.
TIA--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jun 26 10:50:09 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 09:50:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting on H6 carb
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B45O-aSUKn_73NeRtVD43tKji1-Wjw7kzYWO=yWjxX3dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B45O-aSUKn_73NeRtVD43tKji1-Wjw7kzYWO=yWjxX3dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D37F02B06CE849C59D875E84368FC19E@DavidNockHP>

Bring the jet up to flush with the bridge inside the carburettor. The drop the jet 12 flats. As long as your float level and needle set correctly, this will get you very close to where you need to be.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 9:13 AM
To: Austin Healey 
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting on H6 carb

Following a rebuild I am about to reinstall the H6 carbs on my 100.  The mixture nuts are presently run all the way up to richest position and because the nuts are somewhat difficult to access I would like to get the initial mixture setting correct before mounting up the carbs.  

Four full turns down (TOWARDS LEAN) sticks in my mind as being the recommended starting point but I am not at all sure and would appreciate input here.

TIA--Michael Oritt


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Fri Jun 26 11:56:21 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 11:56:21 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting post (thinking upside down)
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7axiJmMvgfAUbkRQwUbGiJTuQx9qFdHMpRy4y_NDVMcg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7axiJmMvgfAUbkRQwUbGiJTuQx9qFdHMpRy4y_NDVMcg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <efc0846a-43b4-445b-38dd-4bb3bd3073eb@porterscustom.com>

I eyeball them ~ 1/4" below the bridge.. go from there.. allow 20-30 
seconds between adjustments for the engine to respond to changes.. FWIW, 
4 bangers like it rich..IMO

On 6/26/2020 10:24 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> In my last post I said that the nuts were adjusted all the way up to 
> the "richest" setting.? I was, of course, wrong and full up is the 
> LEANEST setting.? So my question is how many turns the jet nuts should 
> be initially dropped towards rich.
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From per at schoerner.se  Fri Jun 26 12:59:26 2020
From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 20:59:26 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] 3/8 BSF studs
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKq+3KWYJ+dAuv0uRZQEtiBgm58HZpOSwt1Yc6EQuUo2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKq+3KWYJ+dAuv0uRZQEtiBgm58HZpOSwt1Yc6EQuUo2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2442BA4-3F6C-488E-9E90-289B2C7C151C@schoerner.se>

Michael
Happened to me too, but the other way around. I accidentally bought studs for a 100 when I restored a 3000. I couldn?t understand why the studs didn?t fit, until many swear words later I discovered my mistake.

Per

Skickat fr?n min iPhone

> 26 juni 2020 kl. 16:55 skrev Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>:
> 
> ?
> The 100 that I'm restoring has been previously "restored" so I'm being pretty careful with threads and running taps and chasers through any that look even slightly suspicious. 
> The exhaust flange studs on a 100 (2K7708) are 3/8" BSF and 3 years back the ones on this engine looked to be in such good shape that I decided that running a chaser down them wasn't necessary. 
> Silly me!!
> With one of the last jobs being installing one of my specially made single sweeping curve front pipes I confidently started running the BSF nuts up to secure the flange. On the last one the nut started well but after a few turns became tight .... as is my usual practice I decided to back it off and run a chaser up the stud to clean up the thread.
> Ahhh Houston  .... the nut had seized tight on the thread and despite every trick the stud eventually broke off at the top of the thread.
> Now this is on an engine that I have painstakingly restored however,  there was no option but to remove all the manifolds to replace the stud ... 
> Only after all that did I discover that this 1 stud had been replaced with a UNF and that was why the brass nut had locked onto it 


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jun 26 13:34:58 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 19:34:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 3/8 BSF studs
In-Reply-To: <F2442BA4-3F6C-488E-9E90-289B2C7C151C@schoerner.se>
References: <CAB3i7LKq+3KWYJ+dAuv0uRZQEtiBgm58HZpOSwt1Yc6EQuUo2g@mail.gmail.com>
 <F2442BA4-3F6C-488E-9E90-289B2C7C151C@schoerner.se>
Message-ID: <162981593.4319091.1593200098998@mail.yahoo.com>

 I sent for the exhaust flange studs from one of the usual suppliers for my BN2 because I had none with the exhaust manifold that I obtained for this car.? Turns out they sent me a 5/16ths thread size for screwing into the flange.? Probably a BSF thread. but it turned out to be too small.? Somewhere along the way of this manifold's life someone re-tapped the holes to a larger (3/8ths?) course SAE thread.? Plain Chevy manifold flange bolts you can buy in any parts store fit perfectly and the set comes with locking nuts.? Not to overthink this or create more work for myself, I decided to go with the flow and just bought the Chevy studs and worry about the next thing that does not fit correctly on my project.? 

    On Friday, June 26, 2020, 12:00:39 PM PDT, Per Schoerner <per at schoerner.se> wrote:  
 
 Michael
Happened to me too, but the other way around. I accidentally bought studs for a 100 when I restored a 3000. I couldn?t understand why the studs didn?t fit, until many swear words later I discovered my mistake.

Per

Skickat fr?n min iPhone

> 26 juni 2020 kl. 16:55 skrev Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>:
> 
> ?
> The 100 that I'm restoring has been previously "restored" so I'm being pretty careful with threads and running taps and chasers through any that look even slightly suspicious. 
> The exhaust flange studs on a 100 (2K7708) are 3/8" BSF and 3 years back the ones on this engine looked to be in such good shape that I decided that running a chaser down them wasn't necessary. 
> Silly me!!
> With one of the last jobs being installing one of my specially made single sweeping curve front pipes I confidently started running the BSF nuts up to secure the flange. On the last one the nut started well but after a few turns became tight .... as is my usual practice I decided to back it off and run a chaser up the stud to clean up the thread.
> Ahhh Houston? .... the nut had seized tight on the thread and despite every trick the stud eventually broke off at the top of the thread.
> Now this is on an engine that I have painstakingly restored however,? there was no option but to remove all the manifolds to replace the stud ... 
> Only after all that did I discover that this 1 stud had been replaced with a UNF and that was why the brass nut had locked onto it 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jun 26 20:51:34 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2020 19:51:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Initial mixture setting post (thinking upside down)
In-Reply-To: <efc0846a-43b4-445b-38dd-4bb3bd3073eb@porterscustom.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7axiJmMvgfAUbkRQwUbGiJTuQx9qFdHMpRy4y_NDVMcg@mail.gmail.com>
 <efc0846a-43b4-445b-38dd-4bb3bd3073eb@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <7ec18865-cb03-b129-3d67-b14b0753d708@comcast.net>

"4 bangers like it rich..IMO"

Yup. My BN2 was belching a little black smoke, so I leaned the carbs one 
flat; got a high RPM stumble.


On 6/26/2020 10:56 AM, David P wrote:
>
> I eyeball them ~ 1/4" below the bridge.. go from there.. allow 20-30 
> seconds between adjustments for the engine to respond to changes.. 
> FWIW, 4 bangers like it rich..IMO
>
> On 6/26/2020 10:24 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>> In my last post I said that the nuts were adjusted all the way up to 
>> the "richest" setting.? I was, of course, wrong and full up is the 
>> LEANEST setting.? So my question is how many turns the jet nuts 
>> should be initially dropped towards rich.
>>
>> TIA--Michael Oritt
>>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 27 08:48:50 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 10:48:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Driving Gear
References: <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79@aol.com>

Our newly designed tee shirt arrived from the printer in this mornings mail. In the midst of all the events around the world this is our effort to bring a smile to some and a bit of contemplation to others but the important parts is that green color goes really well with the yellow NastyBoy in the garage ?

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Perry
Sent from my iPhone

From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sat Jun 27 09:02:57 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 08:02:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Driving Gear
In-Reply-To: <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79@aol.com>
References: <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79.ref@aol.com>
 <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+bJXXAovP+z80M66KdwiWbeg1Hb+Uwr-yd8axcEHZowiA@mail.gmail.com>

That T shirt would go with any Healey. And I still do like some pickles.
-Roland

On Sat, Jun 27, 2020, 7:54 AM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Our newly designed tee shirt arrived from the printer in this mornings
> mail. In the midst of all the events around the world this is our effort to
> bring a smile to some and a bit of contemplation to others but the
> important parts is that green color goes really well with the yellow
> NastyBoy in the garage ?
>
>
> Perry
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jun 27 11:01:16 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 13:01:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Driving Gear
References: <09F5BFE0-8267-45D1-98E0-4008EDBB7834.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <09F5BFE0-8267-45D1-98E0-4008EDBB7834@aol.com>

Due to popular demand....?

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A little pop of green makes the old girl look a lot better. 
Sent from my iPhone

From ah3000me at gmail.com  Sat Jun 27 15:44:11 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 17:44:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] rear quarter panel finisher on a BJ8, part number 805-210
Message-ID: <CANQM1P+bgEuwg-PAO-BZ9f8BMJF7D2biXZ3=5EdxSm=n-m=0Tw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Besides the screw that's visible from the front of the piece,  what else
holds the finisher in place?

thanks,
Tom
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sat Jun 27 16:51:59 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 10:51:59 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Driving Gear
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+bJXXAovP+z80M66KdwiWbeg1Hb+Uwr-yd8axcEHZowiA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79.ref@aol.com>
 <3DE113B8-87A7-4FC8-8121-E1459100CD79@aol.com>
 <CADpDe+bJXXAovP+z80M66KdwiWbeg1Hb+Uwr-yd8axcEHZowiA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002a01d64cd5$922a5080$b67ef180$@xtra.co.nz>

Now, if you printed one that said ?turnips?, I?d buy it. ?

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, 28 June 2020 3:03 a.m.
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nasty Boy Driving Gear

 

That T shirt would go with any Healey. And I still do like some pickles. 

-Roland

 

On Sat, Jun 27, 2020, 7:54 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Our newly designed tee shirt arrived from the printer in this mornings mail. In the midst of all the events around the world this is our effort to bring a smile to some and a bit of contemplation to others but the important parts is that green color goes really well with the yellow NastyBoy in the garage ?


Perry
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jun 28 08:36:14 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 10:36:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list
References: <AC307BA2-CCE7-4228-BDB3-D7C34E52A6FA.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AC307BA2-CCE7-4228-BDB3-D7C34E52A6FA@aol.com>

Pittsburgh PA 
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Sent from my iPhone

From bighealey63 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 29 10:18:47 2020
From: bighealey63 at gmail.com (Burt Weiner)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 12:18:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal
Message-ID: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>

All,

So I've got the radiator out on my BJ7. The fan and fan belt are off and
the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block are off BUT the water pump
won't budge. What am I missing?

Burt Weiner
63 AHY BJ7
bighealey63 at gmail.com
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From healey100s at live.com  Mon Jun 29 10:24:01 2020
From: healey100s at live.com (Don Anglesey)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 16:24:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal
In-Reply-To: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR10MB38984C3259EFE109C3B02614FD6E0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

A quick blow with rubber mallet to break gasket seal.
Don

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Burt Weiner via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 10:18:47 AM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal

All,

So I've got the radiator out on my BJ7. The fan and fan belt are off and the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block are off BUT the water pump won't budge. What am I missing?

Burt Weiner
63 AHY BJ7
bighealey63 at gmail.com<mailto:bighealey63 at gmail.com>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 29 10:28:31 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 12:28:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal
In-Reply-To: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1593448120.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Remember all those list discussions about what sealant to use on gaskets?.?
Its just stuck.
 Encourage it to move with a pry bar.  It your plan is to rebuild the pump or reuse the pulley be careful where you pry as the pulley is cast metal and will break. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Burt Weiner via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 12:20 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal

All,

So I've got the radiator out on my BJ7. The fan and fan belt are off and the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block are off BUT the water pump won't budge. What am I missing?

Burt Weiner?
63 AHY BJ7
bighealey63 at gmail.com??

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jun 29 16:23:29 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 18:23:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal
In-Reply-To: <20200629162928.C0549A19D5@autox.team.net>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200629162928.C0549A19D5@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7uNAFjHmjY+jcaStTmRKBbcLH2g+W64QGMANfJLAX__A@mail.gmail.com>

Be careful hitting/prying on WP pulley.  They are brittle and break
relatively easily.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 12:29 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Remember all those list discussions about what sealant to use on gaskets?.?
>
> Its just stuck.
>
> Encourage it to move with a pry bar.  It your plan is to rebuild the pump
> or reuse the pulley be careful where you pry as the pulley is cast metal
> and will break.
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Burt Weiner via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, June 29, 2020 12:20 PM
> *To: *Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Water Pump Removal
>
>
>
> All,
>
>
>
> So I've got the radiator out on my BJ7. The fan and fan belt are off and
> the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block are off BUT the water pump
> won't budge. What am I missing?
>
>
>
> Burt Weiner
>
> 63 AHY BJ7
>
> bighealey63 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jun 29 16:27:58 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 22:27:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7uNAFjHmjY+jcaStTmRKBbcLH2g+W64QGMANfJLAX__A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7uNAFjHmjY+jcaStTmRKBbcLH2g+W64QGMANfJLAX__A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR15MB349124B1C2D646195578EED1BF6E0@BN8PR15MB3491.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Good advice; I was hoping to rebuild mine but over muscled it and broke it. But it was totally worn out so no big deal.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Jun 29, 2020, at 17:24, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
Be careful hitting/prying on WP pulley.  They are brittle and break relatively easily.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 12:29 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Remember all those list discussions about what sealant to use on gaskets?.?
Its just stuck.
Encourage it to move with a pry bar.  It your plan is to rebuild the pump or reuse the pulley be careful where you pry as the pulley is cast metal and will break.
Perry

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Burt Weiner via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 12:20 PM
To: Austin Healey<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Water Pump Removal

All,

So I've got the radiator out on my BJ7. The fan and fan belt are off and the 4 bolts holding the water pump to the block are off BUT the water pump won't budge. What am I missing?

Burt Weiner
63 AHY BJ7
bighealey63 at gmail.com<mailto:bighealey63 at gmail.com>

_______________________________________________
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jun 24 10:43:29 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2020 16:43:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <5773220d1a70e1d06aa76f7c6904c7221aec8eb8@webmail>

could we use copper or aluminum clothes pins? Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "warthodson--- via
Healeys" 
To: "ab7vf at yahoo.com", "eyera3000 at gmail.com", "healey.nut at gmail.com"
Cc: "editorgary at aol.com", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Wednesday June 24 2020 8:32:28AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

 Jim, A cloths pin is 1/2" wide. Not enough insulation & definitely
not a "heat sink". Gary Hodson

 -----Original Message-----
 From: jim 
 To: eyera3000 at gmail.com ; healey.nut at gmail.com ; warthodson at aol.com
 Cc: Editorgary at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net 
 Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 12:42 pm
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

     Turning liquid (gasoline) into vaper or gas (phase change from
liquid to gas) requires HEAT input .Or pressure drop.....Insulate from
heat, no vapor 
 Jim

      On Monday, June 22, 2020, 10:21:10 AM PDT, warthodson--- via
Healeys  wrote:  

    Explain how they work, please. Gary Hodson

 -----Original Message-----
 From: i erbs 
 To: Alan Seigrist 
 Cc: Editorgary at aol.com; Ahealey help 
 Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 10:46 am
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tapitty tapping of Fuel Pump

    wooden clothes pins worked great when I lived in Los Angeles.  
   On Sun, Jun 21, 2020, 7:09 PM Alan Seigrist  wrote:
    Hi Gary - 
 If you start hearing the pump run really quickly, it can be
indicative of vapor lock getting back into the fuel line... can happen
at the end of long trips. It's because the fuel starts vaporizing
around where the line goes into the floats, and the float jet then is
no longer cutting off fuel flow because it is pushing vapor into the
float bowls, which leaks out the overflow tube. As long as your car is
running it should be okay, you might use more fuel than normal. Try
wiring a piece of wood to the incoming fuel line - this is an old
trick with Atlantics to act as a heat sink on hot days and stop vapor
lock on the Atlantics which use mechanical fuel pumps. 
 Best, 
 Alan  
  On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:12 AM editorgary--- via Healeys  wrote:
   Yesterday I took my Healey BN& out for its first good run of the
season -- 75 miles of southern Oregon backroads -- with our local
Rogue Euro Car Group. Everything was terrific from start to finish.
Car started on the first push of the button after sitting for six
weeks, ran smoothly from start to finish, never faltered in restarts,
everything nominal. 
 Except that, towards the end of the run on a pretty hot day (in mid
90s though the car never ran warm all day) as I was cruising along
about 40 mph, the fuel pump started tapping at a high rate of speed
and pretty continuously -- certain enough so I could hear it behind
me. I have a standard original-spec points-style fuel pump, purchased
new from Moss about 10 years ago and running without any issues every
since. 

  Any thoughts from anyone -- could it just have been the heat? As
noted, the car never missed a beat, so fuel was getting through the
carbs smoothly at all times. 

  Anyone? 
  Gary Anderson 
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Jun 30 19:10:51 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2020 18:10:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>

I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.
AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
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