From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 10:33:27 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 09:33:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com>

>From the various responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct
damper for the HD8s.  The main difference between the dampers that I can
observe appears to be the size of the very small weight at the end of the
damper rod.

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM
Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>


I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.
AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul  1 11:25:19 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 13:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1593624332.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

 The carbs I have on hand have the most common, and perhaps the correct piston rod  AUC8112.  Also found AUC8114.  My factory 3000/BJ8 parts book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for the moment so I can not verify what part the factory called for.  The weight of the piston body (very small weight at the end of the damper rod) should not have a bearing on the operation as it can only move vertically 1/16 inch and is otherwise fixed in place. I checked the diameter of the piston body on several and they all appear to be the same. The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper carb operation. 
I had asked the SU dealer in England for guidance for use of the different numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted email to the list.
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

>From the various responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct damper for the HD8s.? The main difference between the dampers that I can observe appears to be the size of the very small weight at the end of the damper rod. 

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM
Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.? AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.? What is the correct damper for a BJ8?

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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Wed Jul  1 12:05:35 2020
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 18:05:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1820982957.728458.1593626735099@mail.yahoo.com>

I checked the SU Reference Cat from 12/03 and it lists AUC8112 for all HD8 in BJ8 cars. Just as an aside other HD8 carbs (with dif. part #s) use different dampers; and, some SU carbs (not HD8s) use only a cap with no damper??? How does that work?Ben CohenBN1, BN7 & BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 6:10 pm
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s

I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.? AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.? What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 16:21:02 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 15:21:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a couple of plastic top dampers where the steel rod has pierced the
cap. How does happen?
Anyone have a couple of spare AUC8112s?
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 16:32:39 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 15:32:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D20706B4930B4B8C9045A0BA2BE3065D@DavidNockHP>

Lean mixture, no oil in damper. The engine spits back thru the carbs when cold causing the piston to jump up. This happens to many times and then the shaft is pushed thru the plastic top of the damper.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: richard mayor via Healeys 
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2020 3:21 PM
To: healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops

I have a couple of plastic top dampers where the steel rod has pierced the cap. How does happen? 

Anyone have a couple of spare AUC8112s?



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul  1 16:38:43 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 18:38:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1593643135.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Harsh backfire. Had it happen several times.
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 6:22 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops

I have a couple of plastic top dampers where the steel rod has pierced the cap. How does happen? 
Anyone have a couple of spare AUC8112s?

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Jul  1 17:21:55 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 11:21:55 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <002001d64ffe$6a8b9b70$3fa2d250$@xtra.co.nz>

Richard and Perry,

 

Both of my S.U. books show AUC8112 as the only damper for the BJ8

AUC8114 is for the Mk II tri-carb and ALL of the Sprites with the exception of the Bugeye (S.U. calls it ?Frogeye? as do you British listers) which has AUC8103

 

AUC8115 is found in the HD8s fitted to E-type Jags and the 4 litre Jensen 541 from 1960 ? 1963.

 

For you Anoraks out there, my main S.U. book by S.U. is called SPARE PARTS AND SPECIFICATION CATALOGUE.  It runs to 179 pages and is spiral bound.

I got it at the Goodwood Revival back in 2015.  It is a very useful little handbook.

It has everything you wanted to know about S.U. carburettors, but were too afraid to ask.  ?

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Thursday, 2 July 2020 5:25 a.m.
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

 

The carbs I have on hand have the most common, and perhaps the correct piston rod  AUC8112.  Also found AUC8114.  My factory 3000/BJ8 parts book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for the moment so I can not verify what part the factory called for.  The weight of the piston body (very small weight at the end of the damper rod) should not have a bearing on the operation as it can only move vertically 1/16 inch and is otherwise fixed in place. I checked the diameter of the piston body on several and they all appear to be the same. The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper carb operation. 

I had asked the SU dealer in England for guidance for use of the different numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted email to the list.

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: richard mayor via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
To: healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

 

>From the various responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct damper for the HD8s.  The main difference between the dampers that I can observe appears to be the size of the very small weight at the end of the damper rod. 

 

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >
Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM
Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >

 

I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.  AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?

 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Jul  1 18:30:20 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 00:30:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqMeU53etGGOEPveCPxRAtrdLtADCMWvHHfP1Z82gOQ8dQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB22784B581E41F5A8D6F30E60D16D0@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

That happens when your carbs are running too lean.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: richard mayor via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 1, 2020 5:22 PM
To: healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] SU dampers with plastic tops

I have a couple of plastic top dampers where the steel rod has pierced the cap. How does happen?
Anyone have a couple of spare AUC8112s?

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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jul  1 18:59:14 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 00:59:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <1820982957.728458.1593626735099@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1820982957.728458.1593626735099@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213E4B80B40EBB5967C5B8CA56D0@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

?...just a cap with no damper????
Maybe that means you could buy a replacement for a damaged cap without replacing the whole assembly.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of ben via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 6:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s

I checked the SU Reference Cat from 12/03 and it lists AUC8112 for all HD8 in BJ8 cars. Just as an aside other HD8 carbs (with dif. part #s) use different dampers; and, some SU carbs (not HD8s) use only a cap with no damper??? How does that work?
Ben Cohen
BN1, BN7 & BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 6:10 pm
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper part #s

I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.  AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  1 20:22:56 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 19:22:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <002001d64ffe$6a8b9b70$3fa2d250$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <002001d64ffe$6a8b9b70$3fa2d250$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <000001d65017$b31c8930$19559b90$@sbcglobal.net>

The S.U Reference Catalogue is handy too.

 

John

CA

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul  2 02:17:15 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 10:17:15 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <002001d64ffe$6a8b9b70$3fa2d250$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <CAKkXjqP4czC85qck_8RUMDxYra5znXn8gD5Oza1TQSpHk1PdyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqMafFePi2cW=JF6XCCEgOuoOkTyN5RC50t7d8QYYRLRPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <002001d64ffe$6a8b9b70$3fa2d250$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>

The book is free of charge from Burlen/SU. You just pay the shipping.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 2-7-2020 om 01:21 schreef Mark Donaldson:
>
> Richard and Perry,
>
> Both of my S.U. books show *AUC8112* as the only damper for the BJ8
>
> *AUC8114*is for the Mk II tri-carb and ALL of the Sprites with the 
> exception of the Bugeye (S.U. calls it ?Frogeye? as do you British 
> listers) which has *AUC8103*
>
> **
>
> *AUC8115*is found in the HD8s fitted to E-type Jags and the 4 litre 
> Jensen 541 from 1960 ? 1963.
>
> For you Anoraks out there, my main S.U. book by S.U. is called SPARE 
> PARTS AND SPECIFICATION CATALOGUE.? It runs to 179 pages and is spiral 
> bound.
>
> I got it at the Goodwood Revival back in 2015.? It is a very useful 
> little handbook.
>
> It has everything you wanted to know about S.U. carburettors, but were 
> too afraid to ask. ?
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
> *From:*Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, 2 July 2020 5:25 a.m.
> *To:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
>
> The carbs I have on hand have the most common, and perhaps the correct 
> piston rod AUC8112.? Also found AUC8114.? My factory 3000/BJ8 parts 
> book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for the 
> moment so I can not verify what part the factory called for. ?The 
> weight of the piston body (very small weight at the end of the damper 
> rod) should not have a bearing on the operation as it can only move 
> vertically 1/16 inch and is otherwise fixed in place. I checked the 
> diameter of the piston body on several and they all appear to be the 
> same. The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper 
> carb operation.
>
> I had asked the SU dealer in England for guidance for use of the 
> different numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted 
> email to the list.
>
> P
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *richard mayor via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
> *To: *healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
>
> From the various responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the 
> correct damper for the HD8s.? The main difference between the dampers 
> that I can observe appears to be the size of the very small weight at 
> the end of the damper rod.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: *richard mayor* <boyracer466 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>>
> Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM
> Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>
> I have 3 sets of HD8 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.? 
> AUC8112, AUC8114 and AUC8115.? What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Jul  2 16:48:53 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 22:48:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Re; Brake Line Clips
References: <875241549.1816408.1593730133980.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <875241549.1816408.1593730133980@mail.yahoo.com>

Just for everyone's information.? Today a DHL package arrived from AH Spares.? The brake line clips were in!? You remember that brake lines clips had a different part number then the fuel line clips at AH Spares.? I immediately tried one of these clips in a frame hole and it fit with no problem.? Much less thicker than the one size fits all Moss approach.? One caveat though, some on the list suggested driving the clip in the hole first and then snapping the brake line between the tines of the clip.? No.? Doing this just shoves the entire clip down the hole in the frame.? Don't ask me how I know this.? Anyway thanks to the list for all the helpful suggestions.
Mike MacLean
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Jul  2 17:02:00 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2020 09:02:00 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday Donald
Message-ID: <004501d650c4$cb96fb50$62c4f1f0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

It's July 3rd here so happy birthday Donald Michell Healey who would be
turning 122 today.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul  4 11:18:40 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2020 13:18:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>

 Austin Healey 100 Heater Valve Stem Repair
<https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=1937>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sat Jul  4 18:51:01 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 12:51:01 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>

I wish I had your engineering skills, Michael.

Thank you for the word of warning.

 

Mark

Cold and wet Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, 5 July 2020 5:19 a.m.
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog

 


Austin Healey 100 Heater Valve Stem Repair <https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=1937> 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul  4 22:09:43 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2020 21:09:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
In-Reply-To: <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <59b04bb1-3ecd-b04c-0779-0ba38bb85c99@comcast.net>

Agree wholeheartedly!

As an aside, these tools will make a perfectly square and clean cut on 
heater and other hoses. I've seen 6-figure restorations with jagged cuts 
on hoses, and I can't 'unsee' them.

https://www.brandsport.com/rnan-301.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=freelistings&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqbic0Jy16gIVuSCtBh0s7g2YEAQYBiABEgKaUfD_BwE

Bob

On 7/4/2020 5:51 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> I wish I had your engineering skills, Michael.
>
> Thank you for the word of warning.
>
> Mark
>
> Cold and wet Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
> *From:*Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, 5 July 2020 5:19 a.m.
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
>
>
>   Austin Healey 100 Heater Valve Stem Repair
>   <https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=1937>
>
>

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  5 00:52:03 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2020 23:52:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
In-Reply-To: <59b04bb1-3ecd-b04c-0779-0ba38bb85c99@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <59b04bb1-3ecd-b04c-0779-0ba38bb85c99@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004701d65298$ca8e5340$5faaf9c0$@sbcglobal.net>

Bob,

 

I wonder what Healey ?factory? cut hoses look like. I have one that I should search for in the garage. Clean cuts probably equal lost concours points. Hahaha.

 

John

?62 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 9:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog

 

Agree wholeheartedly!

As an aside, these tools will make a perfectly square and clean cut on heater and other hoses. I've seen 6-figure restorations with jagged cuts on hoses, and I can't 'unsee' them.




 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 00:59:16 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2020 23:59:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
In-Reply-To: <004701d65298$ca8e5340$5faaf9c0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <59b04bb1-3ecd-b04c-0779-0ba38bb85c99@comcast.net>
 <004701d65298$ca8e5340$5faaf9c0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <0e01e1eb-a2c4-ce6c-63e7-7fe92922a8f6@comcast.net>

John,

You've caught the disease. I GUARANTEE you will check out the hose cuts 
every time you look at a restoration.

Those 'anvil' cutters are actually the fastest/easiest, at least for 
manual operations. With shears, scissors, knives, whatever you'll end up 
hacking at the hose. Those cutters are like little guillotines.

Bob

On 7/4/2020 11:52 PM, John Spaur wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> I wonder what Healey ?factory? cut hoses look like. I have one that I 
> should search for in the garage. Clean cuts probably equal lost 
> concours points. Hahaha.
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 4, 2020 9:10 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
>
> Agree wholeheartedly!
>
> As an aside, these tools will make a perfectly square and clean cut on 
> heater and other hoses. I've seen 6-figure restorations with jagged 
> cuts on hoses, and I can't 'unsee' them.
>
>
>

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul  5 07:05:58 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 13:05:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
References: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852@mail.yahoo.com>

A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home & would re-start again if the car had time to cool down after stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short time, like at a gas station, before re-starting the starter would barely turn the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery & the ignition litewas lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was running. Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter & what is it?Gary Hodson?
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 08:24:40 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 10:24:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
In-Reply-To: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL781Zc7ZLSybvTdqLUFjWPNot00xQiRpKxEJtHZLxH0g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Gary,
In my experience it is difficult to accurately determine the cause of
starting problems without some diagnosis.
Checking the voltage between the starter power terminal and ground during
activation of the starter is the first thing to check.
Typically there should be at least 10 volts during this test.
That said however, the symptoms that you describe are pretty typical of a
starter that is on the way out.
If the starter is starting to fail be careful  ... applying power to a
starter which is not turning can melt the solder of the commutator which
substantially increases the cost of rebuilding the unit.

M


On Sun., Jul. 5, 2020, 9:06 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a recent day
> trip, the car started fine in the morning at home & would re-start again if
> the car had time to cool down after stopping. But if the car was only
> stopped for a short time, like at a gas station, before re-starting the
> starter would barely turn the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery
> & the ignition lite
> was lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was running.
> Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter & what is it?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 09:26:52 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 08:26:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL781Zc7ZLSybvTdqLUFjWPNot00xQiRpKxEJtHZLxH0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LL781Zc7ZLSybvTdqLUFjWPNot00xQiRpKxEJtHZLxH0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <abd2b5e0-672d-ff55-a488-fa4ca0f17b70@comcast.net>

By way of explanation, electricity flows better through a cold circuit 
than it does a hot one ('superconductivity' requires near-zero degrees 
Kelvin to work; 'room temperature superconductivity' is still a pipe 
dream). What may be happening is the starter's field coils don't conduct 
as well when hot, so the starter can't crank as well when it's 
heat-soaked. If the starter has never been (properly) rebuilt, the cloth 
wrap on the field coils is likely shot and allowing some leakage through 
the windings. Also, a partial short anywhere in the starting circuit 
could cause or contribute to the problem; when the engine is cold, try 
cranking--without a start if possible (I don't recall if the key needs 
to be in 'run' to crank, if so you can disconnect the low-voltage lead 
to the coil)--and feel the cables and connection points, if any feel 
inordinately warm check them out. A failing starter solenoid could also 
contribute (though that's usually more random--at first). I had starter 
issues--not heat-related--with my BN2, after a starter rebuild. I 
finally figured out that, after the rebuild I'd put Grade 8 flat washers 
and split washers under the nuts on the starter bolts; it turns out I'd 
impinged the path to ground with the flat washers, when I took them off 
the starter worked as it should.

Mike Martinez at Star Auto Electric has done starter and generator 
rebuilds for me, and knows Healeys: http://starautoelectric.com/ (NFI)

Bob


On 7/5/2020 7:24 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Gary,
> In my experience it is difficult to accurately determine the cause of 
> starting problems without some diagnosis.
> Checking the voltage between the starter power terminal and ground 
> during activation of the starter is the first thing to check.
> Typically there should be at least 10 volts during this test.
> That said however, the symptoms that you describe are pretty typical 
> of a starter that is on the way out.
> If the starter is starting to fail be careful ... applying power to a 
> starter which is not turning can melt the solder of the commutator 
> which substantially increases the cost of rebuilding the unit.
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Jul. 5, 2020, 9:06 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a
>     recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home &
>     would re-start again if the car had time to cool down after
>     stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short time, like
>     at a gas station, before re-starting the starter would barely turn
>     the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery & the ignition lite
>     was lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was
>     running. Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter &
>     what is it?
>     Gary Hodson
>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 09:52:48 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 08:52:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3.54:1 rear end gears
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPAwDKZC6DtxhjyPP+5JAKUS+4dU7N6+GKLBYi_sODiiA@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone have a gear set or a complete diff they want to sell?
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 11:14:38 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 17:14:38 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3.54:1 rear end gears
References: <CAKkXjqPAwDKZC6DtxhjyPP+5JAKUS+4dU7N6+GKLBYi_sODiiA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR04MB43121F025945CE4CE9FAB604F0680@BYAPR04MB4312.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Yes we have 5 of the Lempert sets available.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
www.britishcarspecialists.com<http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>




From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Date: Sunday, July 5, 2020 at 8:53 AM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 3.54:1 rear end gears

Anyone have a gear set or a complete diff they want to sell?
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 13:56:17 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 19:56:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 14:19:20 2020
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:19:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <YTOPR0101MB220146EEC829A41C264A71A5E6680@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

It is hard to believe that eight years have passed. We sure miss him.

Laurie
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: July 5, 2020 3:56 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -


Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul  5 14:23:01 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:23:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <YTOPR0101MB220146EEC829A41C264A71A5E6680@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <YTOPR0101MB220146EEC829A41C264A71A5E6680@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <1062756284.2780798.1593980581660@mail.yahoo.com>

 We still have his son.? I just had him cut a blue hardura pattern for behind the seats of my BN2 for me to replace the vinyl of the Moss kit.? I do mis? Rich's list contribution though and frequently go through the archives looking for his past wisdom.Mike MacLean

    On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 1:19:46 PM PDT, Laurie Wilford <healeymk3 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv2841196323 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It is hard to believe that eight years have passed. We sure miss him.
Laurie
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: July 5, 2020 3:56 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -?#yiv2841196323 #yiv2841196323 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2841196323 p.yiv2841196323x_MsoNormal, #yiv2841196323 li.yiv2841196323x_MsoNormal, #yiv2841196323 div.yiv2841196323x_MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2841196323 a:link, #yiv2841196323 span.yiv2841196323x_MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2841196323 .yiv2841196323x_MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv2841196323 div.yiv2841196323x_WordSection1 {}#yiv2841196323 
Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.

?

Jean 

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From jstmorris at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 16:33:48 2020
From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 22:33:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <1062756284.2780798.1593980581660@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <YTOPR0101MB220146EEC829A41C264A71A5E6680@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <1062756284.2780798.1593980581660@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <629510695.2212902.1593988428360@mail.yahoo.com>

And in a way, we still have him around.? Attached is his first edition of 'Introduction to Austin Healey Restoration' put out in 1986.
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives 

    On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 04:23:09 p.m. EDT, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:  
 
  We still have his son.? I just had him cut a blue hardura pattern for behind the seats of my BN2 for me to replace the vinyl of the Moss kit.? I do mis? Rich's list contribution though and frequently go through the archives looking for his past wisdom.Mike MacLean

    On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 1:19:46 PM PDT, Laurie Wilford <healeymk3 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv5065646609 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It is hard to believe that eight years have passed. We sure miss him.
Laurie
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: July 5, 2020 3:56 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -?#yiv5065646609 filtered {}#yiv5065646609 filtered {}#yiv5065646609 p.yiv5065646609x_MsoNormal, #yiv5065646609 li.yiv5065646609x_MsoNormal, #yiv5065646609 div.yiv5065646609x_MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5065646609 a:link, #yiv5065646609 span.yiv5065646609x_MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5065646609 .yiv5065646609x_MsoChpDefault {}#yiv5065646609 filtered {}#yiv5065646609 div.yiv5065646609x_WordSection1 {}#yiv5065646609 
Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.

?

Jean 

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

  _______________________________________________
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From lgalper1 at cox.net  Sun Jul  5 18:05:54 2020
From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 17:05:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
Message-ID: <8E38F277-DF68-409B-BF82-8E85B0826B8D@cox.net>

?My problem exactly.  
I switched to a high torque unit which worked pretty well till the skinny bolts pulled the unit apart.  
Back to the Lucas starter , with slow hot starts.  
I?ll try a rebuild.   

Lou
Bn1



<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
Message-ID: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home & would re-start again if the car had time to cool down after stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short time, like at a gas station, before re-starting the starter would barely turn the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery & the ignition litewas lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was running. Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter & what is it?Gary Hodson?
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul  5 18:55:48 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 20:55:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
In-Reply-To: <8E38F277-DF68-409B-BF82-8E85B0826B8D@cox.net>
References: <8E38F277-DF68-409B-BF82-8E85B0826B8D@cox.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1593996953.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Lou
?Slow Hot Starts? Check for vapor lock in the Lucas smoke generator. ?
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Lou G
Sent: Sunday, July 5, 2020 8:06 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue

?My problem exactly. ?
I switched to a high torque unit which worked pretty well till the skinny bolts pulled the unit apart. ?
Back to the Lucas starter , with slow hot starts. ?
I?ll try a rebuild. ??

Lou
Bn1





<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 starter issue
Message-ID: <1264595736.2145785.1593954358852 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A friend's 100 appears to have an issue with his starter. On a recent day trip, the car started fine in the morning at home & would re-start again if the car had time to cool down after stopping. But if the car was only stopped for a short time, like at a gas station, before re-starting the starter would barely turn the engine over, if at all. He has a new battery & the ignition litewas lit when the engine was not running & was not lit when it was running. Does this indicate something is wrong with the starter & what is it?Gary Hodson?
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul  5 19:07:46 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 21:07:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <003701d65331$dc11b820$94352860$@sympatico.ca>

Agreed Jean,  Rich and Lyn were good friends and he gave me countless advice
over the years.  Not only are his words of Healey wisdom missed, but his
presence at pub nights and tech sessions.  Lyn was the other half of that
partnership and Gwen and I will also always be in her debt for the many
lunch-time visits to Gwen during long-term hospitalization.   A great
couple.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jean Caron
Sent: Sunday, July 5, 2020 3:56 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -

 

Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to
the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He
left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.

 

Jean 

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  5 20:07:50 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 19:07:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog
In-Reply-To: <0e01e1eb-a2c4-ce6c-63e7-7fe92922a8f6@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLToaTLAV666Qo8g7mQ_jHDYTuy-aBO13BSBfyHUdQnbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000801d65266$5c364290$14a2c7b0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <59b04bb1-3ecd-b04c-0779-0ba38bb85c99@comcast.net>
 <004701d65298$ca8e5340$5faaf9c0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <0e01e1eb-a2c4-ce6c-63e7-7fe92922a8f6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <008d01d6533a$40d8ffe0$c28affa0$@sbcglobal.net>

Bob,

 

When I wrote ?I have one? I meant an original hose. I also have an anvil cutter but it only works on big hoses. I can make clean cuts with a sharp utility knife.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 11:59 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog

 

John,

You've caught the disease. I GUARANTEE you will check out the hose cuts every time you look at a restoration.

Those 'anvil' cutters are actually the fastest/easiest, at least for manual operations. With shears, scissors, knives, whatever you'll end up hacking at the hose. Those cutters are like little guillotines. 

Bob

On 7/4/2020 11:52 PM, John Spaur wrote:

Bob,

 

I wonder what Healey ?factory? cut hoses look like. I have one that I should search for in the garage. Clean cuts probably equal lost concours points. Hahaha.

 

John

?62 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 9:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post On My Blog

 

Agree wholeheartedly!

As an aside, these tools will make a perfectly square and clean cut on heater and other hoses. I've seen 6-figure restorations with jagged cuts on hoses, and I can't 'unsee' them.





 

 

 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 21:18:09 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 03:18:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <629510695.2212902.1593988428360@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <YTOPR0101MB220146EEC829A41C264A71A5E6680@YTOPR0101MB2201.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <1062756284.2780798.1593980581660@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <629510695.2212902.1593988428360@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB22789BB9FF26543AF6C2F8F6D1690@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Thank you Scott, had never seen that publication before.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: J. Scott Morris<mailto:jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Sent: July 5, 2020 5:34 PM
To: Jean Caron<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>; AH Mail List<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Laurie Wilford<mailto:healeymk3 at hotmail.com>; Michael MacLean<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -

And in a way, we still have him around.  Attached is his first edition of 'Introduction to Austin Healey Restoration' put out in 1986.

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives


On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 04:23:09 p.m. EDT, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:


We still have his son.  I just had him cut a blue hardura pattern for behind the seats of my BN2 for me to replace the vinyl of the Moss kit.  I do mis  Rich's list contribution though and frequently go through the archives looking for his past wisdom.
Mike MacLean

On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 1:19:46 PM PDT, Laurie Wilford <healeymk3 at hotmail.com> wrote:


It is hard to believe that eight years have passed. We sure miss him.

Laurie

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Sent: July 5, 2020 3:56 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -


Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C26729fd32e084598075f08d821338f0f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637295852841284150&sdata=RNGSPwrZ%2BNvYM4xWph%2BGCs6zY72sQa%2FNMXkPG6O0Mtw%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10


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From tld6008 at mchsi.com  Sun Jul  5 22:28:10 2020
From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 00:28:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler
In-Reply-To: <mailman.646.1593988462.2905.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.646.1593988462.2905.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1576093583.240059308.1594009690118.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>

He is a legend.

----- Original Message -----
From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
To: "Healey list" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 5, 2020 5:34:22 PM
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 250

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
	healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Richard Chrysler  - (Jean Caron)
   2. Re: Richard Chrysler  - (Laurie Wilford)
   3. Re: Richard Chrysler  - (Michael MacLean)
   4. Re: Richard Chrysler  - (J. Scott Morris)



From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 00:29:06 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 23:29:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR22MB227863A6D5156D3C7F03A8DBD1680@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89is+jCAJDhLHpXmvi1nFk_jrv3_EmodJSgcK+fkZrLWw@mail.gmail.com>

I really miss him. he was so helpful and gracious ith his time.

On Sun, Jul 5, 2020, 12:56 PM Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Today we remember one of the most knowledgeable and helpful contributor to
> the Healey List, especially with regards to the Austin-Healey 100 model. He
> left us way too soon in 2012, RIP Rich.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 14:35:28 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 20:35:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881B699D97522E6EE347DEAD4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Did the 100's (100-4) originally have the single sheet metal screw that attaches the dogleg to the rocker panel from the underside?  This was in addition to the two horizontally mounted machine screws as on later cars.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 15:10:01 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 17:10:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881B699D97522E6EE347DEAD4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881B699D97522E6EE347DEAD4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLgcVOmuoA3WtmX4dyvJmUS9hSWFPC7CCgQX+2+ky49rw@mail.gmail.com>

Apparently yes ...
This is a photo of that area on B.#1267 and the screw is visible.
[image: image.png]


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Did the 100's (100-4) originally have the single sheet metal screw that
> attaches the dogleg to the rocker panel from the underside?  This was in
> addition to the two horizontally mounted machine screws as on later cars.
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul  6 15:11:38 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 21:11:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] To Cable or Not to Cable
References: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>

I am trying to finish the installation of all the things in the engine bay that need to go in before dropping the engine in for the first time.? One of thethings I am working on now is the throttle connection to the gas pedal.? Do I use the Rube Goldberg linkage setup with the kick down feature for the overdrive, or do I go the a cable conversion and simply turn the overdrive on and off with the switch on the dash?? Anyone have experience with a cable conversion can tell how it worked out?Mike MacLean
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 16:01:28 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:01:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] To Cable or Not to Cable
In-Reply-To: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88ikCr83UwWJSirj5sdSZ4WJMP-0itRi6JHZPgMzmafCw@mail.gmail.com>

I built a cable system, but I also have a Smitty 5 speed and updated to HD8
carbs. My OEM system needed to be rebuilt due to failed bits and bobs, so I
went with a more direct cable system
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 2:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I am trying to finish the installation of all the things in the engine bay
> that need to go in before dropping the engine in for the first time.  One
> of thethings I am working on now is the throttle connection to the gas
> pedal.  Do I use the Rube Goldberg linkage setup with the kick down feature
> for the overdrive, or do I go the a cable conversion and simply turn the
> overdrive on and off with the switch on the dash?  Anyone have experience
> with a cable conversion can tell how it worked out?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 16:02:11 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] To Cable or Not to Cable
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88ikCr83UwWJSirj5sdSZ4WJMP-0itRi6JHZPgMzmafCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88ikCr83UwWJSirj5sdSZ4WJMP-0itRi6JHZPgMzmafCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-63=zaL02-g7d2k+YtT8Asjm2HetNrtD9NTv3gyKmT4A@mail.gmail.com>

there is a write up on jon's site www.Healey6.com

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 3:01 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I built a cable system, but I also have a Smitty 5 speed and updated to
> HD8 carbs. My OEM system needed to be rebuilt due to failed bits and bobs,
> so I went with a more direct cable system
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 2:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I am trying to finish the installation of all the things in the engine
>> bay that need to go in before dropping the engine in for the first time.
>> One of thethings I am working on now is the throttle connection to the gas
>> pedal.  Do I use the Rube Goldberg linkage setup with the kick down feature
>> for the overdrive, or do I go the a cable conversion and simply turn the
>> overdrive on and off with the switch on the dash?  Anyone have experience
>> with a cable conversion can tell how it worked out?
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 16:39:20 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:39:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>

I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to
work really well with no load and light load on some very short test drives.
The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. One
of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you can.
That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the center
carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit.
What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a
difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32".

 

TIA,

 

John

San Jose, CA 

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 17:44:07 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 23:44:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLgcVOmuoA3WtmX4dyvJmUS9hSWFPC7CCgQX+2+ky49rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881B699D97522E6EE347DEAD4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LLgcVOmuoA3WtmX4dyvJmUS9hSWFPC7CCgQX+2+ky49rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881DBAC4B5E6DB0C2138FD7D4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

TY. It would appear it lines up with the back of the outrigger (for positioning).


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 5:10 PM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw

Apparently yes ...
This is a photo of that area on B.#1267 and the screw is visible.
[image.png]


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Did the 100's (100-4) originally have the single sheet metal screw that attaches the dogleg to the rocker panel from the underside?  This was in addition to the two horizontally mounted machine screws as on later cars.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul  6 18:17:15 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 20:17:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881DBAC4B5E6DB0C2138FD7D4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DBAC4B5E6DB0C2138FD7D4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <C48EBFD1-9BFB-444B-A081-1B582DE918CC@aol.com>

So the screw is original to the early 100?s. My question would then be, Why were they used? Was it necessary to fasten the bottom of the rear wing prior to the final assembly? Or some other reasons? Then beyond that, why did it not continue? 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 7:52 PM, S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> TY. It would appear it lines up with the back of the outrigger (for positioning).  
> 
> 
> The Millers
>  
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 5:10 PM
> To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
>  
> Apparently yes ...
> This is a photo of that area on B.#1267 and the screw is visible.
> <image.png>
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Did the 100's (100-4) originally have the single sheet metal screw that attaches the dogleg to the rocker panel from the underside?  This was in addition to the two horizontally mounted machine screws as on later cars.
> TY, Shawn
> 
> The Millers
>  
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  6 18:21:06 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 00:21:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw
In-Reply-To: <C48EBFD1-9BFB-444B-A081-1B582DE918CC@aol.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881DBAC4B5E6DB0C2138FD7D4690@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <C48EBFD1-9BFB-444B-A081-1B582DE918CC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278A32B453BF9BBE2BD6EB5D1660@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

It did continue, all the 6 cyl cars have it too.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Perry Small via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 6, 2020 7:17 PM
To: S and T Miller<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw

So the screw is original to the early 100?s. My question would then be, Why were they used? Was it necessary to fasten the bottom of the rear wing prior to the final assembly? Or some other reasons? Then beyond that, why did it not continue?
Perry
Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 6, 2020, at 7:52 PM, S and T Miller via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?
TY. It would appear it lines up with the back of the outrigger (for positioning).


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 5:10 PM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 dogleg screw

Apparently yes ...
This is a photo of that area on B.#1267 and the screw is visible.
<image.png>


On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 4:35 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com<mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Did the 100's (100-4) originally have the single sheet metal screw that attaches the dogleg to the rocker panel from the underside?  This was in addition to the two horizontally mounted machine screws as on later cars.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C5ae11a65553f4e3d8ff608d8220b30b0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637296778734781763&sdata=YsZSz5icCDP3bTpWWRwz3npxxiF%2FlcjtXihDr2QAgt4%3D&reserved=0>
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C5ae11a65553f4e3d8ff608d8220b30b0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637296778734791761&sdata=UcjD5BbhQ28rnI2JjOVfq2TZ6qcF0xe4%2BNy3loWwV5c%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C5ae11a65553f4e3d8ff608d8220b30b0%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637296778734801756&sdata=yvo7M0VoiWajLcy2MEXqmtijn0nGt1jFhpGYRVZkfdw%3D&reserved=0>

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 18:26:55 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 17:26:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <hsc7gf5rraivav5858phlako32h7mpa7io@4ax.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <hsc7gf5rraivav5858phlako32h7mpa7io@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <00c701d653f5$51e2f690$f5a8e3b0$@sbcglobal.net>

I should have given a reference. It is from the S.U Burlen website, this
page, right hand side, last paragraph before the carb section image:
https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments

It does not flood the carb, it leans it out to the stall point. No, it is
not way out of normal, it is a test to determine if the carb mixture is
correct.

-----Original Message-----
From: rwil at sbcglobal.net [mailto:rwil at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 4:38 PM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

at least with the dual carb H4s lifting the pin only speeds or slows the
engine speed.  if it stalls the engine I have no idea what that means except
that something is way out of normal.

Maybe with tricarbs you set the throttle of the center carb at idle just a
bit opener than the other two or something special?  Sounds like the center
carb is the only one supplying fuel to the engine.
That way you could stall the engine by shutting it off.  but that isn't what
lifting the piston does - just adds more gas.  Maybe floods
it?   But the other two carbs are behaving as they should so nothing
makes much sense.

-Roland

On Mon, 6 Jul 2020 15:39:20 -0700, you wrote:

>I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem 
>to work really well with no load and light load on some very short test
drives.
>The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. 
>One of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you
can.
>That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the 
>center carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down
a bit.
>What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a 
>difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32".
>
> 
>
>TIA,
>
> 
>
>John
>
>San Jose, CA

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 19:17:17 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 18:17:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] To Cable or Not to Cable
In-Reply-To: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1099589411.3356959.1594069898505@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNCJzc7gYMm6g81rVP_L98NtAuSWVnD=PZHuTOQCodCPA@mail.gmail.com>

I prefer a throttle cable over the all that complicated stock linkage.
Here's what I did and it works beautifully.

The clamp that attaches to the gas pedal cross shaft is from a BJ8. I
welded an extension arm onto the clamp and drilled a number of holes. That
way I could move the clevis to the hole that gave me just the right amount
of throw to the cable.

As you can see, the bracket is attached to the footwell using the two
machine screws that secure the stock cross shaft bushing. I am using a
teflon bushing.

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 2:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I am trying to finish the installation of all the things in the engine bay
> that need to go in before dropping the engine in for the first time.  One
> of thethings I am working on now is the throttle connection to the gas
> pedal.  Do I use the Rube Goldberg linkage setup with the kick down feature
> for the overdrive, or do I go the a cable conversion and simply turn the
> overdrive on and off with the switch on the dash?  Anyone have experience
> with a cable conversion can tell how it worked out?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 19:32:21 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 18:32:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>

After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits 
who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no 
practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's 
tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston 
and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 
1/32" thick


On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They 
> seem to work really well with no load and light load on some very 
> short test drives. The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the 
> old ones were set to. One of the tests is to lift the piston with the 
> lifting pin as far as you can. That is supposed to stall the engine. 
> However, this only works on the center carb. When I test the front and 
> rear, it just slows the engine down a bit. What have others found when 
> they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a difference in the engine 
> speed when I lift the pistons 1/32?.
>
> TIA,
>
> John
>
> San Jose, CA
>
>

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 20:07:51 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 19:07:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>

Bob, raising the piston 1/32" is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine
stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others
don't stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with
a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to
check the piston lift and they are spot on.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits who
wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no
practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's tuning
kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston and gauge
the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32" thick

On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to
work really well with no load and light load on some very short test drives.
The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. One
of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you can.
That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the center
carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit.
What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a
difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32".

 

TIA,

 

John

San Jose, CA 

 

 

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 21:36:25 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 20:36:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <ad262213-443b-1d1c-8afb-0dac0bfcbfef@comcast.net>

Do you have a Colortune?

On 7/6/2020 7:07 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the 
> engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and 
> the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent 
> another post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used 
> the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
>
> After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some 
> Brits who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing 
> there is no practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"
>
> * But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's 
> tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the 
> piston and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty 
> close to 1/32" thick
>
> On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
>     I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They
>     seem to work really well with no load and light load on some very
>     short test drives. The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what
>     the old ones were set to. One of the tests is to lift the piston
>     with the lifting pin as far as you can. That is supposed to stall
>     the engine. However, this only works on the center carb. When I
>     test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit. What
>     have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a
>     difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32?.
>
>     TIA,
>
>     John
>
>     San Jose, CA
>
>

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Jul  6 21:59:14 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2020 21:59:14 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
Message-ID: <xbuhdq8cq98dn2whgjj5vahm.1594094354160@email.android.com>

Because the air flow is lost over the jet bridge and that carb goes lean. When "correct" the engine should momentarily increase rooms then go lean and stumble/stall.

On July 6, 2020, at 9:37 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Do you have a Colortune?

On 7/6/2020 7:07 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

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Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.

?

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

?

After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32" thick

On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to work really well with no load and light load on some very short test drives. The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. One of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you can. That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the center carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit. What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32?.

?

TIA,

?

John

San Jose, CA 

?

?



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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul  6 22:59:52 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 21:59:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <ad262213-443b-1d1c-8afb-0dac0bfcbfef@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <ad262213-443b-1d1c-8afb-0dac0bfcbfef@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00f001d6541b$73db7260$5b925720$@sbcglobal.net>

I might have a Colortune but I don't know where. However, I don't think a CT
will help answer my question. I want to know if other Healey owners, with
three S.U carbs (HS4's) or even two, know if lifting the piston 1/4"will
stall the engine when independently tested on each carb.

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 8:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

Do you have a Colortune?

On 7/6/2020 7:07 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

Bob, raising the piston 1/32" is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine
stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others
don't stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with
a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to
check the piston lift and they are spot on.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits who
wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no
practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's tuning
kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston and gauge
the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32" thick

On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to
work really well with no load and light load on some very short test drives.
The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. One
of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you can.
That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the center
carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit.
What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a
difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32".

 

TIA,

 

John

San Jose, CA 

 

 

 

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 05:34:51 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 07:34:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00f001d6541b$73db7260$5b925720$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <ad262213-443b-1d1c-8afb-0dac0bfcbfef@comcast.net>
 <00f001d6541b$73db7260$5b925720$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1594121702.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Dave Porter is on the money.  Start back at the beginning of the adjustment procedure and tune the jet nuts to get the highest RPM on each carb, turn the idle screws back to get the right idle speed, then try lifting the pins.  Just because things look like the old setup does not mean they are. If the jets have not been centered it can throw everything off.  If lifting the pin all the way does not stall or at least slow the idle noticeably, then the carb is usually to rich. Oh and by the way, after you lift those pins 500 or so times you can hear the results without measuring 1/32 or an inch. 
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: John Spaur via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 1:03 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

I might have a Colortune but I don?t know where. However, I don?t think a CT will help answer my question. I want to know if other Healey owners, with three S.U carbs (HS4?s) or even two, know if lifting the piston 1/4?will stall the engine when independently tested on each carb.


From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 8:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

Do you have a Colortune?
On 7/6/2020 7:07 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.
?
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
?
After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32" thick
On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to work really well with no load and light load on some very short test drives. The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set to. One of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as you can. That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on the center carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine down a bit. What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can hardly tell a difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32?.
?
TIA,
?
John
San Jose, CA 
?
?



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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 05:41:50 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 07:41:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS:  HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>

I've always wondered:   what do each of those little tools in the tuning
kit do?

- Tom

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:08 PM John Spaur via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the
> engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the
> others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another
> post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning
> kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell
> *Sent:* Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
>
>
>
> After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits
> who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no
> practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"
>
> * But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's
> tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston
> and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32"
> thick
>
> On 7/6/2020 3:39 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> I installed three brand new HS4 carbs on my BT7 this weekend. They seem to
> work really well with no load and light load on some very short test
> drives. The jet adjusting nuts are very close to what the old ones were set
> to. One of the tests is to lift the piston with the lifting pin as far as
> you can. That is supposed to stall the engine. However, this only works on
> the center carb. When I test the front and rear, it just slows the engine
> down a bit. What have others found when they do this test? BTW, I can
> hardly tell a difference in the engine speed when I lift the pistons 1/32?.
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> John
>
> San Jose, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 07:27:02 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 13:27:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00c701d653f5$51e2f690$f5a8e3b0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <hsc7gf5rraivav5858phlako32h7mpa7io@4ax.com>
 <00c701d653f5$51e2f690$f5a8e3b0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <216359402.2949857.1594128422241@mail.yahoo.com>

I read the instructions & found a missing portion of a sentence. See Adjustments,? (2) Tuning, paragraph 2, last line reads as follows: "adjusted vertically by nut (2, Fig. 1) that for this given" - the remainder of this sentence is missing. Anyone know what it should say?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: rwil at sbcglobal.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 7:26 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

I should have given a reference. It is from the S.U Burlen website, this
page, right hand side, last paragraph before the carb section image:
https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments

It does not flood the carb, it leans it out to the stall point. No, it is
not way out of normal, it is a test to determine if the carb mixture is
correct.


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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Tue Jul  7 07:51:18 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 14:51:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <216359402.2949857.1594128422241@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <hsc7gf5rraivav5858phlako32h7mpa7io@4ax.com>
 <00c701d653f5$51e2f690$f5a8e3b0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <216359402.2949857.1594128422241@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000801d65465$b0f75e80$12e61b80$@btinternet.com>

>From the point when the words stop, look to the top of the right column, where the first words say:

 

position of screw (5, Fig 2) the fastest idling speed is obtained consistent with even firing.

 

There is at least one other such formatting error on the same page, where in (6) Float chamber fuel level the words move from the right column to the left column.

 

Ian

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 07 July 2020 14:27
To: healeys at autox.team.net; rwil at sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

I read the instructions & found a missing portion of a sentence. See Adjustments,  (2) Tuning, paragraph 2, last line reads as follows: "adjusted vertically by nut (2, Fig. 1) that for this given" - the remainder of this sentence is missing. Anyone know what it should say? 

Gary Hodson



-----Original Message-----
From: John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
To: rwil at sbcglobal.net <mailto:rwil at sbcglobal.net> ; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 7:26 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

I should have given a reference. It is from the S.U Burlen website, this

page, right hand side, last paragraph before the carb section image:

https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments

 

It does not flood the carb, it leans it out to the stall point. No, it is

not way out of normal, it is a test to determine if the carb mixture is

correct.

 

 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 08:26:34 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 14:26:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <2107912926.2978662.1594131994256@mail.yahoo.com>

John,Are all 3 carb interconnecting throttle linkages disconnected during all the tuning steps??I have never seen this test before in any literature, so I have never tried the test on my tri-carb setup. I will give it a try later today & let you know what I find.If your 3 carbs all perform the same on all the other tests, I think they will perform correctly together. I am assuming you have confirmed that all 3 carbs have the same needle. Also, when you say the "piston is lifted all the way up" you are referring to lifting the piston by the pin, (approximately 1/2" pin travel), not by literally lifting the piston all the way up.Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2020 9:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

#yiv2118873180 #yiv2118873180 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2118873180 #yiv2118873180 p.yiv2118873180MsoNormal, #yiv2118873180 li.yiv2118873180MsoNormal, #yiv2118873180 div.yiv2118873180MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2118873180 a:link, #yiv2118873180 span.yiv2118873180MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2118873180 a:visited, #yiv2118873180 span.yiv2118873180MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2118873180 pre {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv2118873180 span.yiv2118873180HTMLPreformattedChar {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv2118873180 span.yiv2118873180EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv2118873180 span.yiv2118873180EmailStyle20 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv2118873180 .yiv2118873180MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv2118873180 div.yiv2118873180WordSection1 {}#yiv2118873180 Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on. ?thodson at aol.com

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 09:24:35 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 08:24:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>

Tom,

I don't have mine handy, but from memory:

The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the 
vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can 
see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow 
ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.

The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in 
place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and 
replacing the jets.

By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool 
some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet 
adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be 
almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.

All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?

Bob


On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>
> I've always wondered:? ?what do each of those little tools in the 
> tuning kit do?
>
> - Tom
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:08 PM John Spaur via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why
>     the engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the
>     way up and the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the
>     way up. I sent another post with a link for that. The carbs are
>     well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift
>     and they are spot on.
>
>     *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell
>     *Sent:* Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
>
>     After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some
>     Brits who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing
>     there is no practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"
>
>     * But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor
>     man's tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies
>     in the piston and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are
>     pretty close to 1/32" thick
>
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 09:52:40 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 11:52:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>

And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the front
suspension strut like I did yesterday ?

On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I don't have mine handy, but from memory:
>
> The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the vacuum
> pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can see the
> pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow ballpark 1/32
> piston lifts to check mixture.
>
> The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in
> place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and
> replacing the jets.
>
> By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool
> some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet adjusting
> nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be almost
> impossible to use with the carbs on the car.
>
> All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> I've always wondered:   what do each of those little tools in the tuning
> kit do?
>
> - Tom
>
> On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:08 PM John Spaur via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the
>> engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the
>> others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another
>> post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning
>> kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob
>> Spidell
>> *Sent:* Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
>>
>>
>>
>> After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits
>> who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no
>> practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"
>>
>> * But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's
>> tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston
>> and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32"
>> thick
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 10:17:26 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 09:17:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>

Hate it when that happens. I think they're aluminium, so you can't fetch 
them with a magnetic pick-up tool.


On 7/7/2020 8:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the 
> front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?
>
> On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Tom,
>
>     I don't have mine handy, but from memory:
>
>     The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the
>     vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you
>     can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They
>     also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.
>
>     The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that
>     goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete
>     overhaul and replacing the jets.
>
>     By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like
>     the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to
>     the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers,
>     etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.
>
>     All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>>
>>     I've always wondered:? ?what do each of those little tools in the
>>     tuning kit do?
>>
>>     - Tom
>>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 10:26:32 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 12:26:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.10.1594139205.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Perhaps you need to add the unobtainable 100SM option that modifies the strut for easy removal of the wrench.
That grouping of words seems so wrong for many reasons!!!
Hope everyone is having a great day. 
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 12:17 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning

Hate it when that happens. I think they're aluminium, so you can't fetch them with a magnetic pick-up tool.

On 7/7/2020 8:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?

On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
Tom,

I don't have mine handy, but from memory:

The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.

The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and replacing the jets.

By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.

All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?

Bob

On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:

I've always wondered:? ?what do each of those little tools in the tuning kit do?

- Tom



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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul  7 10:39:35 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 12:39:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <e0705c55-b5ff-f20c-c12e-63d53a36fde2@earthlink.net>

I think the wrenches I have are steel.  I fashioned a couple of plugs 
(from 2x4s) with eyelets to seal the holes.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/7/20 12:17 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Hate it when that happens. I think they're aluminium, so you can't fetch 
> them with a magnetic pick-up tool.
> 
> 
> On 7/7/2020 8:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the 
>> front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?
>>
>> On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Tom,
>>
>>     I don't have mine handy, but from memory:
>>
>>     The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the
>>     vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you
>>     can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They
>>     also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.
>>
>>     The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that
>>     goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete
>>     overhaul and replacing the jets.
>>
>>     By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like
>>     the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to
>>     the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers,
>>     etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.
>>
>>     All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?
>>
>>     Bob
>>
>>
>>     On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>>     I've always wondered:? ?what do each of those little tools in the
>>>     tuning kit do?
>>>
>>>     - Tom
>>>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  7 10:51:05 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 09:51:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <012801d6547e$cf11c8b0$6d355a10$@sbcglobal.net>

My wrench is steel. The brass jet adjusting nut on the new carbs is bigger than the old ones so I had to file the wrench open to fit. S.U Burlen does not tell you this when you order new carbs and they don?t include a wrench. Also, I did not notice they put the vacuum take-off on the center carb instead of the rear carb until I installed them. There were also some factory assembly issues with the throttle shaft nuts and other bits that affected the length of the throttle shafts. I worked all of it out but it was a little irritating.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 9:17 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

Hate it when that happens. I think they're aluminium, so you can't fetch them with a magnetic pick-up tool.



On 7/7/2020 8:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?

 

On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Tom,

I don't have mine handy, but from memory:

The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.

The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and replacing the jets.

By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.

All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?

Bob



On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:

 

I've always wondered:   what do each of those little tools in the tuning kit do?

 

- Tom

 

 

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 12:45:52 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 14:45:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <893126ae-d187-6307-6f9b-4e2b0f11befe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <020c01d6548e$d7b9de20$872d9a60$@gmail.com>

I just checked, and mine is steel. I took the opportunity having it out to install a lanyard?

 



 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 12:17 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

Hate it when that happens. I think they're aluminium, so you can't fetch them with a magnetic pick-up tool.



On 7/7/2020 8:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?

 

On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Tom,

I don't have mine handy, but from memory:

The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.

The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and replacing the jets.

By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.

All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?

Bob



On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:

 

I've always wondered:   what do each of those little tools in the tuning kit do?

 

- Tom

 

 

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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Tue Jul  7 13:18:44 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 20:18:44 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning and loosing spanners
Message-ID: <001c01d65493$6ed3fa80$4c7bef80$@btinternet.com>

It is possible to buy plastic plugs off eBay which fit the support tubes
exactly.  Then the next owner of your car will not find all the tools which
you lost!

 

Ian

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 13:47:28 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 15:47:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning and loosing spammers
References: <85E659FA-62F6-4141-A27F-9525451BE5B5.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <85E659FA-62F6-4141-A27F-9525451BE5B5@aol.com>

Or you can buy a can of spray foam
and seal up those mysterious black holes....

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Sent from my iPhone

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Jul  7 13:55:38 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 15:55:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning and loosing spanners
In-Reply-To: <001c01d65493$6ed3fa80$4c7bef80$@btinternet.com>
References: <001c01d65493$6ed3fa80$4c7bef80$@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <027001d65498$970e7e80$c52b7b80$@rr.com>

I cut a black foam rubber piece from 2" thick scrap just a little bigger
than the hole and stuffed it in there.  Still there after all these years.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delgate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian Hey
via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 3:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning and loosing spanners

 

It is possible to buy plastic plugs off eBay which fit the support tubes
exactly.  Then the next owner of your car will not find all the tools which
you lost!

 

Ian

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Jul  7 14:02:58 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 14:02:58 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning and loosing spammers
In-Reply-To: <85E659FA-62F6-4141-A27F-9525451BE5B5@aol.com>
References: <85E659FA-62F6-4141-A27F-9525451BE5B5.ref@aol.com>
 <85E659FA-62F6-4141-A27F-9525451BE5B5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <240a7f5e-0877-c830-99f2-5d7f3f2102cd@porterscustom.com>

telescoping magnets retrieve most...

On 7/7/2020 1:47 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
> Or you can buy a can of spray foam
> and seal up those mysterious black holes....
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul  7 14:52:53 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 20:52:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <012d01d6547e$cf89dee0$6e9d9ca0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <2107912926.2978662.1594131994256@mail.yahoo.com>
 <012d01d6547e$cf89dee0$6e9d9ca0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <698639340.3170198.1594155173165@mail.yahoo.com>

I just performed the piston lift pin test on my tri-carbs. FYI, I have 3 SU HS6 carbs & an mid-aggressive cam. I cannot recall the specs. About a 9.5:1 compression & run premium pump gas. To keep my engine running (idling) at stop lights I need to set the idle at 1000rpm. It will drop to 600-800rpm when I depress the clutch.It is 93degrees here today when I performed the lift test. All three carbs performed similarly. With the piston lifted the rpm dropped & the engine ran rougher but did not die. But each time it was on the verge of dying. After releasing the lift pin the rpm did not return to 1000, until I cleared the carbs by revving the engine. My carbs have a stock balance pipe. I understand that there were 2 different original balance pipes. I believe mine is the later style.I hope this is some help.Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Sent: Tue, Jul 7, 2020 11:51 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

#yiv5757757009 #yiv5757757009 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5757757009 #yiv5757757009 p.yiv5757757009MsoNormal, #yiv5757757009 li.yiv5757757009MsoNormal, #yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv5757757009 a:link, #yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5757757009 a:visited, #yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5757757009 pre {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009HTMLPreformattedChar {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv5757757009 p.yiv5757757009msonormal, #yiv5757757009 li.yiv5757757009msonormal, #yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv5757757009 p.yiv5757757009msochpdefault, #yiv5757757009 li.yiv5757757009msochpdefault, #yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009msochpdefault {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009msohyperlink {}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009msohyperlinkfollowed {}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009htmlpreformattedchar {}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009emailstyle19 {}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009emailstyle20 {}#yiv5757757009 p.yiv5757757009msonormal1, #yiv5757757009 li.yiv5757757009msonormal1, #yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009msonormal1 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009msohyperlink1 {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009msohyperlinkfollowed1 {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009htmlpreformattedchar1 {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009emailstyle191 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009emailstyle201 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv5757757009 p.yiv5757757009msochpdefault1, #yiv5757757009 li.yiv5757757009msochpdefault1, #yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:10.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv5757757009 span.yiv5757757009EmailStyle33 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv5757757009 .yiv5757757009MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv5757757009 div.yiv5757757009WordSection1 {}#yiv5757757009 Gary, ?You understand my question! J Yes, disconnected the linkages and tuned them by the book. They are working great although I have not taken the car on a long drive or connected the choke cables yet. With the tuning kit I can easily see that the pistons rise equally at different throttle settings. Incidentally, the jet nut settings on each carb are almost identical to what the old ones were. ?Let me know what you find out when you test the pins on your carb. It would be very helpful. ?TIA,John Spaur ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 7:27 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning ?John, Are all 3 carb interconnecting throttle linkages disconnected during all the tuning steps??I have never seen this test before in any literature, so I have never tried the test on my tri-carb setup. I will give it a try later today & let you know what I find.If your 3 carbs all perform the same on all the other tests, I think they will perform correctly together. I am assuming you have confirmed that all 3 carbs have the same needle. Also, when you say the "piston is lifted all the way up" you are referring to lifting the piston by the pin, (approximately 1/2" pin travel), not by literally lifting the piston all the way up.Gary Hodson


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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jul  7 15:32:17 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 17:32:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <698639340.3170198.1594155173165@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <2107912926.2978662.1594131994256@mail.yahoo.com>
 <012d01d6547e$cf89dee0$6e9d9ca0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <698639340.3170198.1594155173165@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A2D5C718-69D1-44CC-961C-673440C784C1@rogers.com>

Good for you tuning the carbs at 93 degrees!
I can?t face getting into my Healey today?maybe in the evening!

Stephen, BJ8

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 4:52 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I just performed the piston lift pin test on my tri-carbs. FYI, I have 3 SU HS6 carbs & an mid-aggressive cam. I cannot recall the specs. About a 9.5:1 compression & run premium pump gas. To keep my engine running (idling) at stop lights I need to set the idle at 1000rpm. It will drop to 600-800rpm when I depress the clutch.
> It is 93degrees here today when I performed the lift test. All three carbs performed similarly. With the piston lifted the rpm dropped & the engine ran rougher but did not die. But each time it was on the verge of dying. After releasing the lift pin the rpm did not return to 1000, until I cleared the carbs by revving the engine. My carbs have a stock balance pipe. I understand that there were 2 different original balance pipes. I believe mine is the later style.
> I hope this is some help.
> Gary
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>
> To: warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 7, 2020 11:51 am
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
> 
> Gary,
>  
> You understand my question! J Yes, disconnected the linkages and tuned them by the book. They are working great although I have not taken the car on a long drive or connected the choke cables yet. With the tuning kit I can easily see that the pistons rise equally at different throttle settings. Incidentally, the jet nut settings on each carb are almost identical to what the old ones were.
>  
> Let me know what you find out when you test the pins on your carb. It would be very helpful.
>  
> TIA,
> John Spaur
>  
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
> Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 7:27 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning
>  
> John, 
> Are all 3 carb interconnecting throttle linkages disconnected during all the tuning steps? 
> I have never seen this test before in any literature, so I have never tried the test on my tri-carb setup. I will give it a try later today & let you know what I find.
> If your 3 carbs all perform the same on all the other tests, I think they will perform correctly together. I am assuming you have confirmed that all 3 carbs have the same needle. Also, when you say the "piston is lifted all the way up" you are referring to lifting the piston by the pin, (approximately 1/2" pin travel), not by literally lifting the piston all the way up.
> Gary Hodson
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com>
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Jul  7 16:49:46 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 10:49:46 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <00bb01d653e6$4a8e46b0$dfaad410$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c5421cba-6902-dfe1-1119-c018e6ea930e@comcast.net>
 <00dc01d65403$6bef5390$43cdfab0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CANQM1PJgCmHetifK-qBZ962PkaLPM-ZsUnBDKZ6Lga2HCwjw3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <7d31e6b0-7d3c-f3cd-b29d-8a78fc9bd53a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJ2Muxd_oFw3_Q1CBG42gA-gDVHgDRcJ4wYa+gOcibT5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d654b0$eb7292a0$c257b7e0$@xtra.co.nz>

My jet adjustment spanner (wrench) has a hole in the end.  I learned many years ago that threading a piece of string through it is wonderful insurance.

Mine is also steel, and stamped SPEEDWELL.  I?ve had it for about 40 years.  I bought it when my wife had a 1961 997 Austin-Cooper.

I also have an original jet-centring tool.  It has proved invaluable on occasion, and so simple to use.

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

 



 

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, 8 July 2020 3:53 a.m.
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb tuning kit WAS: HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

And be very careful not to drop the little wrench down inside the front suspension strut like I did yesterday ?

 

On Tue., Jul. 7, 2020, 11:24 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Tom,

I don't have mine handy, but from memory:

The two black plastic rod-looking things go into the center of the vacuum pistons. In those go the 90-deg bent wires. With these you can see the pistons rise and fall, so as to even airflow. They also allow ballpark 1/32 piston lifts to check mixture.

The small brass plug-looking thing is a jet-centering tool that goes in place of a jet; very handy if you're doing a complete overhaul and replacing the jets.

By far the most useful tool is the small wrench that looks like the tool some people use to floss; it's the only way I can get to the jet adjusting nuts on my BN2. Any other tool--wrench, pliers, etc.--would be almost impossible to use with the carbs on the car.

All in all, a simple but useful collection of tools. Did I miss any?

Bob



On 7/7/2020 4:41 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:

 

I've always wondered:   what do each of those little tools in the tuning kit do?

 

- Tom

 

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:08 PM John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Bob, raising the piston 1/32? is not my issue. I am wondering why the engine stalls when the center carb piston is lifted all the way up and the others don?t stall the engine when lifted all the way up. I sent another post with a link for that. The carbs are well synced, I used the S.U tuning kit to check the piston lift and they are spot on.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 Tri-carb tuning

 

After much effort and consideration, I decided there must be some Brits who wrote that 'procedure' laughing their asses off knowing there is no practical* way to lift the pistons exactly 1/32"

* But you can, if you have the little wire thingies in the poor man's tuning kit--actually quite useful--stick the wire thingies in the piston and gauge the piston rise; the wires themselves are pretty close to 1/32" thick

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul  7 22:37:13 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 04:37:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tuesday Rant
References: <1104292391.4125198.1594183033524.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1104292391.4125198.1594183033524@mail.yahoo.com>


My new 100M carbs being installed tonight hit a snag.? I put the throttlr arm and shaft connector on the two carbs with no problem or binding.? As a last little task I was going to put the yoke to connect the two choke levers on the carbs.? This carb set was bought direct from Burlen a couple of years ago at a great savings.? ( $700, believe it or not)? Much more than that now.? Included with the carbs were two sets of gaskets,? a thottle arm and a choke liver yoke kit.? As you can see from the included picture there is no way to clamp the yoke wire in the pin vise because the clamping screw is too short as you can see.? Really?? Not very professional.Mike MacLean


Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul  8 02:34:06 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 08:34:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Tuesday Rant
In-Reply-To: <1365833190.4183793.1594197203608@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1104292391.4125198.1594183033524.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1104292391.4125198.1594183033524@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1365833190.4183793.1594197203608@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1696752729.4191030.1594197246600@mail.yahoo.com>

 OK, disregard my previous rant.? How did I know the pin vise was so well machined that the head of the screw would disappear below the top surface making the screw flush with the top of the assembly.? Thereby, making just enough of the bottom of the screw protrude into the hole for the wire yoke and clamp it in place.? That is some fine machining there.? Apparently my eyes are not what they used to be.? Maybe I am just so accustomed to the parts we get for these cars are not as well made as "back in the day."? Kudos to Burlen.? I am so accustomed to having to make parts work or modify them to fit I never expected such quality.? My bad, as they say.? Well, that's it until the next rant.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, July 8, 2020, 1:33:23 AM PDT, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:  
 
  OK, disregard my previous rant.? How did I know the pin vise was so well machined that the head of the screw would disappear below the top surface making the screw flush with the top of the assembly.? Thereby, making just enough of the bottom of the screw protrude into the hole for the wire yoke and clamp it in place.? That is some fine machining there.? Apparently my eyes are not what they used to be.? Maybe I am just so accustomed to the parts we get for these cars are not as well made as "back in the day."? Kudos to Burlen.? I am so accustomed to having to make parts work or modify them to fit I never expected such quality.? My bad, as they say.? Well, that's it until the next rant.Mike MacLean

    On Tuesday, July 7, 2020, 9:38:41 PM PDT, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
My new 100M carbs being installed tonight hit a snag.? I put the throttlr arm and shaft connector on the two carbs with no problem or binding.? As a last little task I was going to put the yoke to connect the two choke levers on the carbs.? This carb set was bought direct from Burlen a couple of years ago at a great savings.? ( $700, believe it or not)? Much more than that now.? Included with the carbs were two sets of gaskets,? a thottle arm and a choke liver yoke kit.? As you can see from the included picture there is no way to clamp the yoke wire in the pin vise because the clamping screw is too short as you can see.? Really?? Not very professional.Mike MacLean


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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul  8 14:29:39 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 20:29:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Plate Location
References: <1867356471.4532471.1594240179470.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1867356471.4532471.1594240179470@mail.yahoo.com>



Does it matter exactly where the Lemans modification plate is screwed to the cold air box?? Do I just center it end to end or center it between the carbs?? I only get to drill these holes once.? What screws to use?? Sheet metal or machine?? Metal is thick enough to tap with threads.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From ggilliam at usol.com  Thu Jul  9 07:00:05 2020
From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2020 09:00:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
Message-ID: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>

a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..

   https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/


  Happy bidding..

Gordy
Longbridge BN4

From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 08:40:38 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 07:40:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
In-Reply-To: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
References: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone know what those seats came out of?

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 6:01 AM ggilliam--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..
>
>    https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/
>
>
>   Happy bidding..
>
> Gordy
> Longbridge BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
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>
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From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 09:01:58 2020
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 11:01:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
 <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADqHe-3o4OcWV9QYQXoULpAJvpxE4D7G6xzFeqD1oOqiT8VYBg@mail.gmail.com>

They definitely look comfortable.

jon

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 10:41 AM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone know what those seats came out of?
>
> On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 6:01 AM ggilliam--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..
>>
>>    https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/
>>
>>
>>   Happy bidding..
>>
>> Gordy
>> Longbridge BN4
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 09:14:28 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 08:14:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
 <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_rZCe9yNp=ctCGTro8sg+iSWZmoUOUDdxarEaY_yoxVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Don't know, but the owner is thinner and shorter than me :)
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 7:41 AM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone know what those seats came out of?
>
> On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 6:01 AM ggilliam--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..
>>
>>    https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/
>>
>>
>>   Happy bidding..
>>
>> Gordy
>> Longbridge BN4
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jul  9 09:16:35 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 11:16:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
 <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1594307807.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

The seat frames and mounting through the floor looks like stock seats.  Guessing they have been over stuffed with some foam. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 10:41 AM
To: ggilliam at usol.com
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT

Anyone know what those seats came out of?

On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 6:01 AM ggilliam--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..

? ?https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/


? Happy bidding..

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From svilanspeter at xplornet.ca  Thu Jul  9 13:15:19 2020
From: svilanspeter at xplornet.ca (svilanspeter at xplornet.ca)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2020 15:15:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BaT
Message-ID: <faa0d48ebabb504ce76691895267b796@xplornet.ca>

The seats look to be the deluxe competition seats available from the
factory for MGA coupes and roadsters.  Pics are from the "Original MGA"
book by Clausager. 

Best regards, 

Peter
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul  9 14:37:29 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 16:37:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT
In-Reply-To: <20200709151648.65BBDA068B@autox.team.net>
References: <c4c99ecbfa3884210627499a49f4f764@usol.com>
 <CAKkXjqMcS_Es80as8jqzrMyqop5+dytoUYSzy7=xFMEutA=ZzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200709151648.65BBDA068B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <491950152.54188386.1594327049123.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

says it sold for $48K today.
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, ggilliam at usol.com
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 09 Jul 2020 11:16:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT

<!--

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-->The seat frames and mounting through the floor looks like stock seats.  Guessing they have been over stuffed with some foam.Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2020 10:41 AM
To: ggilliam at usol.com
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 on BAT Anyone know what those seats came out of? On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 6:01 AM ggilliam--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:a nice BT7 is on auction on BAT. Currently at $37K..

   https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-austin-healey-3000-bt7-5/


  Happy bidding..

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 10 09:44:59 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 11:44:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hood straps
Message-ID: <016201d656d1$11ffaad0$35ff0070$@gmail.com>

We are nearing completion of Glady's restoration.  Gladys is a 1967 BJ8.  We
were forced into the restoration when a bunch of mice overran her while she
was spending the winter in a trailer.  The top was one of the most severely
damaged  parts of the car.   So much damage that I  had to discard the
material associated with the top (the odor was outrageous).   Unfortunately
I didn't take a picture of the top remains and I am now unsure of the
placement of the grey straps that set the spacing for the frame pieces of
the top.   

 

I have found a reference that describes the distances between each of the
frame pieces, but I am not sure of which frame pieces have strapping between
them.   I know straps go from the front piece (at top of windshield) to the
second frame piece.  And, I know the straping continues to the third frame
piece (where a clamping piece secures the strap to that piece.  However, I
can't remember whether, or not, the strap continues to the back piece
secured to the top over the rear plastic window.

 

Can anyone tell me how to route the straps?  (or post a picture?).

 

Thanks

-skip-

BJ8

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jul 10 10:15:50 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 09:15:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hood straps
In-Reply-To: <016201d656d1$11ffaad0$35ff0070$@gmail.com>
References: <016201d656d1$11ffaad0$35ff0070$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BB65A2193EB241E6B7695BCCC162D16C@DavidNockHP>



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: skip saunders via Healeys 
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2020 8:44 AM
To: healeylist 
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hood straps

We are nearing completion of Glady?s restoration.  Gladys is a 1967 BJ8.  We were forced into the restoration when a bunch of mice overran her while she was spending the winter in a trailer.  The top was one of the most severely damaged  parts of the car.   So much damage that I  had to discard the material associated with the top (the odor was outrageous).   Unfortunately I didn?t take a picture of the top remains and I am now unsure of the placement of the grey straps that set the spacing for the frame pieces of the top.   

 

I have found a reference that describes the distances between each of the frame pieces, but I am not sure of which frame pieces have strapping between them.   I know straps go from the front piece (at top of windshield) to the second frame piece.  And, I know the straping continues to the third frame piece (where a clamping piece secures the strap to that piece.  However, I can?t remember whether, or not, the strap continues to the back piece secured to the top over the rear plastic window.

 

Can anyone tell me how to route the straps?  (or post a picture?)?

 

Thanks

-skip-

BJ8



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Jul 10 10:28:53 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2020 16:28:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale
In-Reply-To: <355296623.1765866.1589244467819@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <355296623.1765866.1589244467819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <355296623.1765866.1589244467819@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1355234625.5493503.1594398533860@mail.yahoo.com>

PRICE CUT!!!!? ALL FOR $60 INCLUDING SHIPPING.? FIRST 60 WINS EM.Keith


-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 8:47 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas mirrors for sale

Listers,Have decided to part with these.? L and R.? Both have VG chrome but one has small dent on housing.? Both will need mirrors replaced.? Diameter is 5 inch.Also included are two aftermarket pieces.? One is just the head with no stem.? 4.5 inch diameter.? Good chrome.Other is complete with SS head and somewhat corroded stem.? 4.25 inch diameter.Selling as a lot, no separations.? $125 for all.? Free shipping to lower 48.Email offline with any Qs.? I have 3 other pix I can send to serious inquiries.Keithllennep at Verizon.net_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 11 15:00:04 2020
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2020 14:00:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Users of gmail
Message-ID: <6733422E8A894779A85D188C5FA0FE56@LeonardPCPC>


FYI.  I noticed that I was missing some e-mails that had been sent to me.  A little research revealed that they came from some Listers, our Club's Events Chairman, and residents of my retirement community.  It turned out that all were using gmail.  I have never, intentionally, added gmail to my Blocked Senders files.  I have now added gmail to the Safe Senders list.  I am hoping that will solve the problem.

(As I recall, this was a subject matter several years ago)

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From schottc at knology.net  Sun Jul 12 09:42:32 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 11:42:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine ID Plate
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR10MB38984C3259EFE109C3B02614FD6E0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR10MB38984C3259EFE109C3B02614FD6E0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2103006711.2884004.1594568552152.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>


Would someone tell me or show me how the engine ID plate is configured on a 100 4. I'm trying to determine if there is a slash mark between the 1B and the rest of the number. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 10:38:52 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 12:38:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine ID Plate
In-Reply-To: <2103006711.2884004.1594568552152.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR10MB38984C3259EFE109C3B02614FD6E0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <2103006711.2884004.1594568552152.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJzGdYwAtj_hWBjpM6PNSgN=rMRijXZJ7SGRMTwQ6TwwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Charlie,
Do you have a copy of the Concours Guidelines?
The engine tags are clearly illustrated in them.
If you don't I can send pics.
What year is your car?

M

On Sun., Jul. 12, 2020, 11:42 a.m. Charles Schott via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Would someone tell me or show me how the engine ID plate is configured on
> a 100 4. I'm trying to determine if there is a slash mark between the 1B
> and the rest of the number. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 21:56:51 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:56:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine ID Plate
In-Reply-To: <2103006711.2884004.1594568552152.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <CAG22=edA21vSL=zJXvCgvYw4BJOY9Z9YAeYytQya2VOpPBZWeA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR10MB38984C3259EFE109C3B02614FD6E0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <2103006711.2884004.1594568552152.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeT-OYGvLmT6JQwfDiKDoDU7fKD6yS9npLmaFY418DP=jA@mail.gmail.com>

Charles,

Here's the plate from my Jan. '55 BN1...

[image: image.png]

Curt

On Sun, Jul 12, 2020 at 8:43 AM Charles Schott via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Would someone tell me or show me how the engine ID plate is configured on
> a 100 4. I'm trying to determine if there is a slash mark between the 1B
> and the rest of the number. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul 13 15:06:30 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2020 17:06:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Coupe
In-Reply-To: <9B5A2510-6DE8-4377-BCFC-B4326BE9D223@aol.com>
References: <9B5A2510-6DE8-4377-BCFC-B4326BE9D223.ref@aol.com>
 <9B5A2510-6DE8-4377-BCFC-B4326BE9D223@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1594674401.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

From: Perry Small
Subject: Coupe

Listers and learned AH  keepers of the obscure. A question. 

Looks like a ?newer? version of a 100 Coupe may be in the works, at least the data collection and planning stages. 
I know that this question must have been asked previously but the answers to the question has been kept from most of us. I suspect the reason is to keep replica?s of the original from being produced. 
Questions: What is the original source of the glass and frames (windscreen, back glass and door/sides) used on the DMH car? Also was a sectioned roof panel off another car used or a complete panel fabricated for the car. 
Reason is to start with known sizes of these items to use as a size ( not necessarily shape) for the mockup. Without access to the DMH car gathering this information would be the next best option. 
Let me know if you are willing to share and what non disclosure forms I need to sign! ?
Perry


Sent from my iPhone

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 07:25:35 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 06:25:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Fwd=3A_I=E2=80=99d_plate?=
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>

Todd,

In answer to your question to Charlie Schott, see my remarks below copied
from the AH Concours Guidelines Supplement 10.

I've also attached a photo of my personal engine plate, a car built on 11
Jan. 1955.

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
AH Concours Registry Technical Committee.

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
Date: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: I?d plate
To: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net>


Charlie,

With all due respect, please purchase and READ the Concours Guidelines!!!

A number of us have donated our time and research to put out a world class
document that is very inexpensive for the value it represents. This
information is readily available. And while I don't mind answering
legitimate questions, It gets old having to repeatedly direct Healey folks
to the already available information on our cars.

Here are several quotes from Supplement 10 on I.D. Plates...


*<Engines were manufactured initially by Austin and their number plates had
a stamping with small numerals and a large B,as shown below.> *



*<The numbers used on these Healey engines ran up to somewhere around
1B208XYZ, when sourcing was changed toMorris. The new series of numbering
started with 213XYZ and in addition to the 1B at the front had the letter M
at theend, which indicated supplied by Morris. The numerals and letters
were all the same height .>*

So ask yourself the question... What is my engine number?  If it's 213XYZ
or later, then there is a "M" suffix.  208XYZ or earlier, then no "M"suffix.

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 5:34 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

>
> Curtis,
>
> This is the response I received from Todd Clarke who makes replacement
> tags. My Heritage Certificate (attached) does not show a "M" at the end. Is
> it possible that my engine was built by Austin?
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Todd Clarke" <clarkespares at att.net>
> *To: *"Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, July 13, 2020 9:43:47 AM
> *Subject: *Re: I?d plate
>
> Charles,
>
> Thanks for the message. I don't recall if you called in the order or sent
> by e-mail (can't find a copy)....did I miss the "M".
> The "M" indicates the engine was put together by Morris. Engines were also
> put together by Austin which
> do not have an "M". As far as I know no one knows when or why the
> different engines were fitted but I suspect it was matter of supply and
> demand.
> Of course the BMHT should have all the info. and the eng. number should be
> noted on the Build Cert. they offer. Do you have
> a build sheet?
>
> Let me know how you want to proceed.
>
> Regards,
>
> Todd
>
>
> On Monday, July 13, 2020, 09:29:04 AM EDT, Charles Schott <
> schottc at knology.net> wrote:
>
>
> Todd,
>
> It looks like my engine ID tag is suppose to have a "M" at the end per the
> attachment. Would you please redo my tag? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
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From healey100m at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 07:46:04 2020
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 09:46:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>

Just to follow-up on Curt?s email, the AH Concours Guidelines are available from Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com

The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at:  https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org

The Guidelines are a wealth of knowledge whether working on a ?driver? or ?concours car?.  A steal at $25.00 US.  ?

Randy Hicks

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Todd,
> 
> In answer to your question to Charlie Schott, see my remarks below copied from the AH Concours Guidelines Supplement 10. 
> 
> I've also attached a photo of my personal engine plate, a car built on 11 Jan. 1955.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Curt Arndt
> AH Concours Registry Technical Committee.
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com <mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com>>
> Date: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 6:11 AM
> Subject: Re: I?d plate
> To: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>>
> 
> 
> Charlie,
> 
> With all due respect, please purchase and READ the Concours Guidelines!!!
> 
> A number of us have donated our time and research to put out a world class document that is very inexpensive for the value it represents. This information is readily available. And while I don't mind answering legitimate questions, It gets old having to repeatedly direct Healey folks to the already available information on our cars.  
> 
> Here are several quotes from Supplement 10 on I.D. Plates...
> 
> <Engines were manufactured initially by Austin and their number plates had a stamping with small numerals and a large B,
> as shown below.> 
> 
> <The numbers used on these Healey engines ran up to somewhere around 1B208XYZ, when sourcing was changed to
> Morris. The new series of numbering started with 213XYZ and in addition to the 1B at the front had the letter M at the
> end, which indicated supplied by Morris. The numerals and letters were all the same height .>
> 
> So ask yourself the question... What is my engine number?  If it's 213XYZ or later, then there is a "M" suffix.  208XYZ or earlier, then no "M"suffix.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 5:34 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>> wrote:
> 
> Curtis,
> 
> This is the response I received from Todd Clarke who makes replacement tags. My Heritage Certificate (attached) does not show a "M" at the end. Is it possible that my engine was built by Austin?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
> 
> From: "Todd Clarke" <clarkespares at att.net <mailto:clarkespares at att.net>>
> To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>>
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2020 9:43:47 AM
> Subject: Re: I?d plate
> 
> Charles,
> 
> Thanks for the message. I don't recall if you called in the order or sent by e-mail (can't find a copy)....did I miss the "M".
> The "M" indicates the engine was put together by Morris. Engines were also put together by Austin which
> do not have an "M". As far as I know no one knows when or why the different engines were fitted but I suspect it was matter of supply and demand.
> Of course the BMHT should have all the info. and the eng. number should be noted on the Build Cert. they offer. Do you have
> a build sheet?
> 
> Let me know how you want to proceed.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Todd
> 
> 
> On Monday, July 13, 2020, 09:29:04 AM EDT, Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
> Todd,
> 
> It looks like my engine ID tag is suppose to have a "M" at the end per the attachment. Would you please redo my tag? Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
> 
> 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 08:23:28 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 14:23:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>
Message-ID: <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>

I just tried to complete the Concours Guidelines order form online at the link shown below. I could not get it to accept any input from me.?
The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: ?https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org

Gary Hodson?


-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Hicks via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: Michael Osipik <mikeosipik at gmail.com>; clarkespares at att.net <clarkespares at att.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 8:46 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate

Just to follow-up on Curt?s email, the AH Concours Guidelines are available from Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com
The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: ?https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org
The Guidelines are a wealth of knowledge?whether working on a ?driver? or ?concours car?. ?A steal at $25.00 US. ??
Randy Hicks


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From healey100m at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 09:39:04 2020
From: healey100m at gmail.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 11:39:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>
 <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <31F40857-C3E3-461F-A2A1-0ECE88C4E78B@me.com>

Hi Gary, we are a very low budget organization. You need to print it out, complete it and email or mail to Mike Osipik with payment.

Easiest is just to call Mike (phone number is on order form). He?ll be more than willing to answer any questions.

Randy


> On Jul 14, 2020, at 10:23 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I just tried to complete the Concours Guidelines order form online at the link shown below. I could not get it to accept any input from me. 
> 
> The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at:  https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org <https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org/>
> 
> Gary Hodson 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Hicks via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: Michael Osipik <mikeosipik at gmail.com>; clarkespares at att.net <clarkespares at att.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 8:46 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate
> 
> Just to follow-up on Curt?s email, the AH Concours Guidelines are available from Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com <mailto:mikeosipik at gmail.com>
> 
> The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at:  https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org <https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org/>
> 
> The Guidelines are a wealth of knowledge whether working on a ?driver? or ?concours car?.  A steal at $25.00 US.  ?
> 
> Randy Hicks
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
> 

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Jul 14 11:13:03 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 11:13:03 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] US only.. Aluminum Denis Welch 4cyl. head
Message-ID: <1e72db4f-36f1-4afb-fabc-0c844c5b27dc@porterscustom.com>

For sale.. new AL head.. first come, first serve. $3000.00? I'll pay 
shipping Continental US.? $4899.00 retail. You know you want one... dp

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 14 12:05:29 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 14:05:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] US only.. Aluminum Denis Welch 4cyl. head
In-Reply-To: <1e72db4f-36f1-4afb-fabc-0c844c5b27dc@porterscustom.com>
References: <1e72db4f-36f1-4afb-fabc-0c844c5b27dc@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <91d60e44-cd61-f452-1f19-4474b9b65f4e@earthlink.net>

Yeah, but then I'll want the car to go with it.  No wait, ...

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/14/20 1:13 PM, David P via Healeys wrote:
> For sale.. new AL head.. first come, first serve. $3000.00? I'll pay 
> shipping Continental US.? $4899.00 retail. You know you want one... dp
> 

From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 13:21:35 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 15:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Coupe
In-Reply-To: <20200713210740.4FBD8A0A05@autox.team.net>
References: <9B5A2510-6DE8-4377-BCFC-B4326BE9D223.ref@aol.com>
 <9B5A2510-6DE8-4377-BCFC-B4326BE9D223@aol.com>
 <20200713210740.4FBD8A0A05@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1594754506.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers 
More to my post from yesterday. Thanks to some very close up photos of DMH?s personal coupe widow trim and windows, it seems apparent that the car was not a collection of production parts used or modified to fit the design but coach built one off parts as some others thought. With that the newer version of a 100 coupe will probably follow suite. Come up with a design, hash out the details and then attempt to make the design a reality. 
If anyone has more info on the topic that you would care to share with me it can be done of the list.
Thanks
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10



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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 14:31:36 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 13:31:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTBPPbyS-AdX4DpTE3Kr5PHVwqJq1f_-fvoUE=aJM+7Cg@mail.gmail.com>

Charlie,

As you can see from my three tags in the attached photo, what is printed on
the Heritage Certificate is not exactly how the tags were printed.

I've attached a draft copy of a short article I wrote on the most obvious
changes to the 100s from early BN1 to the last BN2.  It has a lot of
photos, and was done in response to all the questions that I'm typically
asked at AH car shows and events.  And while just a draft, it's 95%
complete, I hope to have it finished this week with added photos.  Until
you get your copy of the Concours Guidelines, this should help.

I submitted this to the Concours Committee for inclusion back in early 2019
into the Guidelines, but they weren't interested.  I also asked if the
Committee was interested in a similar article on the six cylinder cars, and
again no interest as I was told that this information was already covered?
Not to this detail, but hey, what do I know?  I'm working on a similar
article for the six cylinder cars and should have it completed by the end
of the Summer, and on my Blog site that should also be up and running by
then.  I'll keep you posted.

As I mentioned when I restored your trafficator switch, call me anytime
with questions.  That is of course after you've read the Factory Service
Manual, Owner's Handbook, Factory Parts manual and the Concours Guidelines
to get your answers ;-^)

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 5:34 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

>
> Curtis,
>
> This is the response I received from Todd Clarke who makes replacement
> tags. My Heritage Certificate (attached) does not show a "M" at the end. Is
> it possible that my engine was built by Austin?
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Todd Clarke" <clarkespares at att.net>
> *To: *"Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>
> *Sent: *Monday, July 13, 2020 9:43:47 AM
> *Subject: *Re: I?d plate
>
> Charles,
>
> Thanks for the message. I don't recall if you called in the order or sent
> by e-mail (can't find a copy)....did I miss the "M".
> The "M" indicates the engine was put together by Morris. Engines were also
> put together by Austin which
> do not have an "M". As far as I know no one knows when or why the
> different engines were fitted but I suspect it was matter of supply and
> demand.
> Of course the BMHT should have all the info. and the eng. number should be
> noted on the Build Cert. they offer. Do you have
> a build sheet?
>
> Let me know how you want to proceed.
>
> Regards,
>
> Todd
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jul 14 14:59:33 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 20:59:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Coupe
Message-ID: <6e8c988a1653de56d0282c37bfba281b16fe9a71@webmail>

These two 100 coupes were featured in Bill Emerson's book: "The Healey
Book" pgs. 106 &108. Bill gives a good brief history of their
development. As mentioned it was designed by Coker (sketch K1 110) at
Donald's request ("to do a coupe version") (X220 & 221) and finished
at Dick Gallimore's shop to Donald's specs.
You can also find a good article in "Austin-Healey Magazine" about the
restored version of OAC1-the blue car. ONX113 (chassis #142615) was
the red coupe and Donald's personal ride.
Both bodies were assembled onto BN1 chassis at Jensen in 1953 but the
second car was not collected from Jensen inventory, and not finished
until 1955. It sat in Jensen's inventory as "prototype body" until
finally billed out later. I have the Jensen financial records, dated,
from 100 production showing the 1953 production and the two coupe
prototypes on the books and what month they shipped out of inventory.
Perry, what you need is specifications from Jensen (not Austin or
Warwick) as they molded the body to the chassis and added the various
body components.
A great source of Jensen factory records is Richard Calver. His book:
"Jensen-All the models" covers every body shipped out of the Carters'
Green and Kelvin Way plants. You can find the story of the two coupes
on pg 186 of his book. In his book, you will also note the similarity
of the coupe to the Jensen 541 of its time. Richard had access to all
of Jensen's files. He may have some of the original drawings and
records of where the components came from. Regards, Hank,
healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Perry via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday July 14 2020 12:23:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Coupe

	Listers 

	More to my post from yesterday. Thanks to some very close up photos
of DMH?s personal coupe widow trim and windows, it seems apparent
that the car was not a collection of production parts used or modified
to fit the design but coach built one off parts as some others
thought. With that the newer version of a 100 coupe will probably
follow suite. Come up with a design, hash out the details and then
attempt to make the design a reality. 

	If anyone has more info on the topic that you would care to share
with me it can be done of the list.

	Thanks

	Perry

	Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10

	 

Links:
------
[1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jul 14 15:19:45 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 21:19:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] early 100 differences
Message-ID: <5b466cb34f0d3d554ade22d80305d2862e4b27cf@webmail>

I have about 75 items on my list of production modifications from the
early 1953 to the later BN1 production. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Curtis Arndt via
Healeys" 
To: "Charles Schott", "Healey List", "Healeyguy", "warthodson at aol.com"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday July 14 2020 1:42:27PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate

Charlie,
As you can see from my three tags in the attached photo, what is
printed on the Heritage Certificate is not exactly how the tags were
printed.

I've attached a draft copy of a short article I wrote on the most
obvious changes to the 100s from early BN1 to the last BN2. It has a
lot of photos, and was done in response to all the questions that I'm
typically asked at AH car shows and events. And while just a draft,
it's 95% complete, I hope to have it finished this week with added
photos. Until you get your copy of the Concours Guidelines, this
should help. 
I submitted this to the Concours Committee for inclusion back in early
2019 into the Guidelines, but they weren't interested. I also asked if
the Committee was interested in a similar article on the six cylinder
cars, and again no interest as I was told that this information was
already covered? Not to this detail, but hey, what do I know? I'm
working on a similar article for the six cylinder cars and should have
it completed by the end of the Summer, and on my Blog site that should
also be up and running by then. I'll keep you posted.
As I mentioned when I restored your trafficator switch, call me
anytime with questions. That is of course after you've read the
Factory Service Manual, Owner's Handbook, Factory Parts manual and the
Concours Guidelines to get your answers ;-^)
Cheers,
Curt
On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 5:34 PM Charles Schott  wrote:

Curtis,
This is the response I received from Todd Clarke who makes replacement
tags. My Heritage Certificate (attached) does not show a "M" at the
end. Is it possible that my engine was built by Austin?
Regards,
Charlie

-------------------------
FROM: "Todd Clarke" 
TO: "Charles Schott" 
SENT: Monday, July 13, 2020 9:43:47 AM
SUBJECT: Re: I?d plate

 Charles,

Thanks for the message. I don't recall if you called in the order or
sent by e-mail (can't find a copy)....did I miss the "M".
The "M" indicates the engine was put together by Morris. Engines were
also put together by Austin which
do not have an "M". As far as I know no one knows when or why the
different engines were fitted but I suspect it was matter of supply
and demand.
Of course the BMHT should have all the info. and the eng. number
should be noted on the Build Cert. they offer. Do you have
a build sheet?

Let me know how you want to proceed.

Regards,

Todd 

Links:
------
[1] mailto:schottc at knology.net
[2] mailto:clarkespares at att.net
[3] mailto:schottc at knology.net

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From schottc at knology.net  Tue Jul 14 17:25:41 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 19:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>
 <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1859910779.4189652.1594769141569.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I couldn't get it to work either. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "warthodson--- via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Cc: mikeosipik at gmail.com, clarkespares at att.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 9:23:28 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate 

I just tried to complete the Concours Guidelines order form online at the link shown below. I could not get it to accept any input from me. 

The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org 

Gary Hodson 


-----Original Message----- 
From: Randy Hicks via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: Michael Osipik <mikeosipik at gmail.com>; clarkespares at att.net <clarkespares at att.net> 
Sent: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 8:46 am 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate 

Just to follow-up on Curt?s email, the AH Concours Guidelines are available from Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com 

The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org 

The Guidelines are a wealth of knowledge whether working on a ?driver? or ?concours car?. A steal at $25.00 US. ? 

Randy Hicks 



_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Jul 15 07:51:41 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 09:51:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <00a901d65a37$3ec8b390$bc5a1ab0$@gmail.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeQSYBGJ+kwstdi=BgW+g=O2J1Mv=Ptih4EQAz1LyjOFpA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeT+JqinasNQH2Ypq=-yoXS6J6e4reVguTec-kXp8pEG7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5135CD10-D257-4412-A9BD-F716463C58D6@me.com>
 <1276279114.1265686.1594736608862@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1859910779.4189652.1594769141569.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <00a901d65a37$3ec8b390$bc5a1ab0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1691095848.4509983.1594821101911.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Mike, 

I downloaded the form and when I tried to fill it out, the cursor on the screen moved with my typing but nothing appeared on the form. Should I just print it, fill it out by hand and mail it to you? 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael Osipik" <mikeosipik at gmail.com> 
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, warthodson at aol.com 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, clarkespares at att.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 6:33:56 PM 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] I?d plate 



Charles, 



It won?t fill in on the site. 



If you?ll download this form to your hard drive, rename it and complete the input it should work fine. 

Thanks, 




Mike Osipik 

Kansas City, MO 64113 

816-729-9119 

?Retirement is better than Saturdays because there are no Mondays.? 







From: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 6:26 PM 
To: warthodson at aol.com 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; mikeosipik at gmail.com; clarkespares at att.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate 





I couldn't get it to work either. 





Regards, 





Charlie 



----- Original Message -----



From: "warthodson--- via Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Cc: mikeosipik at gmail.com , clarkespares at att.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2020 9:23:28 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate 





I just tried to complete the Concours Guidelines order form online at the link shown below. I could not get it to accept any input from me. 





The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org 





Gary Hodson 



-----Original Message----- 
From: Randy Hicks via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > 
To: Healey List < healeys at autox.team.net > 
Cc: Michael Osipik < mikeosipik at gmail.com >; clarkespares at att.net < clarkespares at att.net > 
Sent: Tue, Jul 14, 2020 8:46 am 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I?d plate 


Just to follow-up on Curt?s email, the AH Concours Guidelines are available from Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com 






The order form is available on the Concours Registry web site at: https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org 





The Guidelines are a wealth of knowledge whether working on a ?driver? or ?concours car?. A steal at $25.00 US. ? 





Randy Hicks 









_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 





Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 





Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 





Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 







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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 07:53:44 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 13:53:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Healey parts
References: <1968019921.2018045.1594821224062.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1968019921.2018045.1594821224062@mail.yahoo.com>

fwiwJust happened to come across this while searching for an antenna.? Never seen these people before.
https://www.ebay.com/str/leacyclassics/AUSTIN-HEALEY-/_i.html?_storecat=4116648013
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From varley at cosmos.net.au  Thu Jul 16 00:52:53 2020
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 16:52:53 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Question...
In-Reply-To: <9bcd54f4-8621-6f87-7bf8-995f3cf0d16e@gmail.com>
References: <9bcd54f4-8621-6f87-7bf8-995f3cf0d16e@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02bd6938-8736-d9c7-6f8c-38d501f10b1b@cosmos.net.au>

Hi Dave, Eddie Woods at Head Stud Developments also makes the head for the
100 in Australia, I have 2 for my cars, about $4000.00 AUD so price in USD would be good.

https://www.headstuddevelopment.com.au/

Regards

Larry Varley


On 16/07/2020 12:36 AM, David P wrote:
> Is Denis Welch the sole supplier of the AL heads for Austin Healey? Dave
>


From bighealey63 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 07:43:29 2020
From: bighealey63 at gmail.com (Burt Weiner)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 09:43:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable block
Message-ID: <CAG22=edZZsZeOQLWckrUFGQcX4OgNYp8e4Tmk5UjnoSN2i0CSA@mail.gmail.com>

Just received new choke cables from Moss.  With some help from a friend,
I've got the bit from the dash to the firewall in place. Now I need to get
the two old cables (front and rear carb) separated from the choke block.
They don't want to budge. PB Blaster didn't help. Heat? Cut and drill? Any
suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Burt
-- 
Burt Weiner
63 BJ7
bighealey63 at gmail.com
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Jul 16 14:25:37 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 14:25:37 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] The DW Aluminum head is sold...
Message-ID: <87abe0d0-2ed3-2810-bb73-f9d07d282c69@porterscustom.com>


-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Jul 18 10:46:28 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 16:46:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
References: <253931309.3655245.1595090788191.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <253931309.3655245.1595090788191@mail.yahoo.com>

As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.? Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the driver's footwell.? This weekend I would like to start to install the part of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub harnesses go in the engine bay.? In the past I installed a new harness in my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.? That is a much simpler harness though.? The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on under the bonnet.? I can see the general physical routing of the main harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.? It is a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.? One spot has four white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.? Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a couple inches from the bunch of white wires.? I can see what component these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of the same color goes to which connection on that component.? Any suggestions before I pull out what hair I have left?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 11:00:26 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 13:00:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <253931309.3655245.1595090788191@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <253931309.3655245.1595090788191.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <253931309.3655245.1595090788191@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLdZWSWqzUmYV3J3oNww3V8GaPUKvYravvBvFmZhG5WEA@mail.gmail.com>

The bunches of wires of the same colour that you see are, I believe, the
connections to the fuse box ... pretty straight forward when you get to
that stage.
Do remember that the wires to the flasher unit go through the firewall to
the inside of the car where the flasher unit was mounted on the BN1/2
models.

M

On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 12:46 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
> bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
> Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
> driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
> of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
> harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
> my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
> simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
> under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
> harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
> a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
> wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
> white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
> Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
> couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
> these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
> the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
> before I pull out what hair I have left?
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Sat Jul 18 12:45:42 2020
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 14:45:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1595097952.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>


> As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
> bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
> Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
> driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
> of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
> harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
> my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
> simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
> under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
> harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
> a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
> wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
> white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
> Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
> couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
> these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
> the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
> before I pull out what hair I have left?
> Mike MacLean
>

Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 

Regards,
Mike Lempert
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Jul 18 13:26:32 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 19:26:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <20200718184638.16037A0B41@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <20200718184638.16037A0B41@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <225492433.3698482.1595100392712@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have a laminated BN2 wiring diagram to work from.? I sat one afternoon in my living room using painter's tape to label as many of the connections of the main harness as possible.? At least I can see what part of the harness goes on which side of the firewall.? I am guessing that I will be doing multiple continuity checks on the same color wiring to see where the other end goes in the case of multiple same color wires.? Just a hassle as I have no one to mine information from that has done this wiring before.? I am electrically challenged as it is.? Making sure positive goes to the red wire and negative to the black wire is the extent of my knowledge for the most part.Mike

    On Saturday, July 18, 2020, 11:46:40 AM PDT, Michael Lempert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 <!--#yiv3960963221 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3960963221 #yiv3960963221 p.yiv3960963221MsoNormal, #yiv3960963221 li.yiv3960963221MsoNormal, #yiv3960963221 div.yiv3960963221MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3960963221 span.yiv3960963221DefaultFontHxMailStyle {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv3960963221 .yiv3960963221MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv3960963221 div.yiv3960963221WordSection1 {}-->
?

> As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine

> bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.

> Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the

> driver's footwell.? This weekend I would like to start to install the part

> of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub

> harnesses go in the engine bay.? In the past I installed a new harness in

> my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.? That is a much

> simpler harness though.? The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on

> under the bonnet.? I can see the general physical routing of the main

> harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.? It is

> a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple

> wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.? One spot has four

> white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.

> Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a

> couple inches from the bunch of white wires.? I can see what component

> these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of

> the same color goes to which connection on that component.? Any suggestions

> before I pull out what hair I have left?

> Mike MacLean

> ?

 ?

Michael:? If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 

 ?

Regards,

Mike Lempert
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 14:29:16 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 16:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <20200718184648.38C75A06B4@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <20200718184648.38C75A06B4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6D1E0941-8721-49C5-98BF-FFC168D33B31@gmail.com>

Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.

> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
> > Mike MacLean
> > 
>  
> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 
>  
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul 18 15:16:00 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 17:16:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <6D1E0941-8721-49C5-98BF-FFC168D33B31@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <20200718184648.38C75A06B4@autox.team.net>
 <6D1E0941-8721-49C5-98BF-FFC168D33B31@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJX1SCzE=eHy4Y=ttN1fWH0p1QRSowbzyoOUTFdsyMMsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
*Absolutely*

On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>
> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the
> engine
> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of
> the
> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the
> part
> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It
> is
> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has
> four
> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire
> of
> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any
> suggestions
> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
> > Mike MacLean
> >
>
> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there
> was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash
> instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the
> correct indicator first.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Lempert
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Jul 18 16:03:16 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2020 16:03:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJX1SCzE=eHy4Y=ttN1fWH0p1QRSowbzyoOUTFdsyMMsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <20200718184648.38C75A06B4@autox.team.net>
 <6D1E0941-8721-49C5-98BF-FFC168D33B31@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJX1SCzE=eHy4Y=ttN1fWH0p1QRSowbzyoOUTFdsyMMsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e89ab260-b8d1-5c84-8cbc-d941c2d81fb0@porterscustom.com>

Most parts outlets have a circuit breaker with clips at each end... 
reusable..beats blowing fuses repeatedly..dp

On 7/18/2020 3:16 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn 
> anything on.? Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
> *_/Absolutely/_*
>
> On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn
>     anything on.? Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>
>>     On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in
>>     the engine
>>     > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in
>>     the car.
>>     > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the
>>     outside of the
>>     > driver's footwell.? This weekend I would like to start to
>>     install the part
>>     > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and
>>     whatever sub
>>     > harnesses go in the engine bay.? In the past I installed a new
>>     harness in
>>     > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.? That
>>     is a much
>>     > simpler harness though.? The harness for the BN2 has a lot more
>>     going on
>>     > under the bonnet.? I can see the general physical routing of
>>     the main
>>     > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the
>>     years.? It is
>>     > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when
>>     multiple
>>     > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.? One
>>     spot has four
>>     > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one
>>     brown wire.
>>     > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of
>>     the loom a
>>     > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.? I can see what
>>     component
>>     > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know
>>     which wire of
>>     > the same color goes to which connection on that component.? Any
>>     suggestions
>>     > before I pull out what hair I have left?
>>     > Mike MacLean
>>     >
>>     Michael:? If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware
>>     that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher
>>     indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best
>>     to check that you have the correct indicator first.
>>     Regards,
>>     Mike Lempert
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     SupportTeam.Net <http://team.net/>http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 03:28:42 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 10:28:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJX1SCzE=eHy4Y=ttN1fWH0p1QRSowbzyoOUTFdsyMMsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1595095201.27112.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <20200718184648.38C75A06B4@autox.team.net>
 <6D1E0941-8721-49C5-98BF-FFC168D33B31@gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJX1SCzE=eHy4Y=ttN1fWH0p1QRSowbzyoOUTFdsyMMsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxcF1rPpUUbtc9KfVWi5buxUdFBnL+o8Azd1AJEhTPbVpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael

A fuse is a good idea but it is better to put a 12V bulb in series. Perhaps
an old 36 watt version. If there is a short the lamp/bulb will light up
fully but nothing is damaged. If there is no actual short the lamp will
just glow less than full brightness if there is something in circuit. The
bulb will also allow one to see when a short is diagnosed by observing the
brightness of the bulb with nothing damaged

Best regards

On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 at 22:16, Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
> *Absolutely*
>
> On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
>> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>>
>> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the
>> engine
>> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
>> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of
>> the
>> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the
>> part
>> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
>> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness
>> in
>> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
>> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
>> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
>> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.
>> It is
>> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
>> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has
>> four
>> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
>> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
>> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
>> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which
>> wire of
>> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any
>> suggestions
>> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
>> > Mike MacLean
>> >
>>
>> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that
>> there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the
>> dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the
>> correct indicator first.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Mike Lempert
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 15:41:44 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2020 17:41:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?SeKAmWQgcGxhdGU=?=
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTBPPbyS-AdX4DpTE3Kr5PHVwqJq1f_-fvoUE=aJM+7Cg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519.ref@aol.com>
 <682D60D0-FE02-4DDC-A3DA-815C03CE8519@aol.com>
 <761271946.3170007.1594646940194.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <1819837522.763350.1594651427965@mail.yahoo.com>
 <517031099.3585756.1594685945720.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <28184958.3598470.1594686861494.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAJKrNeTBPPbyS-AdX4DpTE3Kr5PHVwqJq1f_-fvoUE=aJM+7Cg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1921419F-8506-4C8F-BAF7-FE2C83A6E9B3@gmail.com>

Keep us all posted please.

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 4:31 PM, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
> 
> As you can see from my three tags in the attached photo, what is printed on the Heritage Certificate is not exactly how the tags were printed.
> 
> I've attached a draft copy of a short article I wrote on the most obvious changes to the 100s from early BN1 to the last BN2.  It has a lot of photos, and was done in response to all the questions that I'm typically asked at AH car shows and events.  And while just a draft, it's 95% complete, I hope to have it finished this week with added photos.  Until you get your copy of the Concours Guidelines, this should help.  
> 
> I submitted this to the Concours Committee for inclusion back in early 2019 into the Guidelines, but they weren't interested.  I also asked if the Committee was interested in a similar article on the six cylinder cars, and again no interest as I was told that this information was already covered?  Not to this detail, but hey, what do I know?  I'm working on a similar article for the six cylinder cars and should have it completed by the end of the Summer, and on my Blog site that should also be up and running by then.  I'll keep you posted.
> 
> As I mentioned when I restored your trafficator switch, call me anytime with questions.  That is of course after you've read the Factory Service  Manual, Owner's Handbook, Factory Parts manual and the Concours Guidelines to get your answers ;-^)
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 5:34 PM Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>> wrote:
> 
> Curtis,
> 
> This is the response I received from Todd Clarke who makes replacement tags. My Heritage Certificate (attached) does not show a "M" at the end. Is it possible that my engine was built by Austin?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie
> 
> From: "Todd Clarke" <clarkespares at att.net <mailto:clarkespares at att.net>>
> To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net <mailto:schottc at knology.net>>
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2020 9:43:47 AM
> Subject: Re: I?d plate
> 
> Charles,
> 
> Thanks for the message. I don't recall if you called in the order or sent by e-mail (can't find a copy)....did I miss the "M".
> The "M" indicates the engine was put together by Morris. Engines were also put together by Austin which
> do not have an "M". As far as I know no one knows when or why the different engines were fitted but I suspect it was matter of supply and demand.
> Of course the BMHT should have all the info. and the eng. number should be noted on the Build Cert. they offer. Do you have
> a build sheet?
> 
> Let me know how you want to proceed.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Todd
> <IMG_4814.JPG><AH BN1-2 Concours Chart of Changes.pdf>_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 09:52:55 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 11:52:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>

After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling feature of my
trafficator has stopped working.  In addition to repairs the bakelite could
use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both
rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.  Though not a requirement I would
prefer someone on the east coast but am willing to travel....

Best--Michael Oritt
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From cynicbass at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 09:57:02 2020
From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 15:57:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <14D76AC0-199C-4DB8-AA4F-11ABA6D5E0FC@gmail.com>

Send it to Curt Arndt. His restorations are beautiful.

Richard

> On Jul 19, 2020, at 15:52, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling feature of my trafficator has stopped working.  In addition to repairs the bakelite could use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.  Though not a requirement I would prefer someone on the east coast but am willing to travel....
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 10:00:22 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 16:00:22 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
In-Reply-To: <14D76AC0-199C-4DB8-AA4F-11ABA6D5E0FC@gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>,
 <14D76AC0-199C-4DB8-AA4F-11ABA6D5E0FC@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278D2C07A90306DC494CF06D17A0@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Totally agree with Michael on this one, although he is on the West Coast, he is great at restoring these and has parts to rebuild these units.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Richard Korn via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 19, 2020 10:58 AM
To: Michael Oritt<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator

Send it to Curt Arndt. His restorations are beautiful.

Richard

On Jul 19, 2020, at 15:52, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling feature of my trafficator has stopped working.  In addition to repairs the bakelite could use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.  Though not a requirement I would prefer someone on the east coast but am willing to travel....

Best--Michael Oritt

_______________________________________________
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 11:22:27 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 10:22:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c709hf5j3jagtugpgqbb1im9q3muglqi42@4ax.com>

Bite the bullet, Michael, and send your Trafficator to Curt Arndt in
Carlsbad, CA.  You will be happy with the results.
-Roland

On Sun, 19 Jul 2020 11:52:55 -0400, you wrote:

>After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling feature of my
>trafficator has stopped working.  In addition to repairs the bakelite could
>use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both
>rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.  Though not a requirement I would
>prefer someone on the east coast but am willing to travel....
>
>Best--Michael Oritt

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul 19 11:34:33 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 17:34:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
Message-ID: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>

There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the
headlights. Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming
to the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to
protect both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end
collision. A short will burn the harness down all the way to the
firewall. Also fuse the blue wire at the headlight switch for the same
reason. The fuse box only covers the horns, battery (50A) and key on
items (35A). If you use US made fuses cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp
Buss fuses
Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener).
Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys" 
To: "Team.net"
Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins

Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn
anything on. Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
_ABSOLUTELY_ 
On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys,  wrote:
Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn
anything on. Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.

On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys  wrote:
 > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the
engine> bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in
the car.> Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the
outside of the> driver's footwell. This weekend I would like to start
to install the part> of the wiring harness that passes through the
firewall and whatever sub> harnesses go in the engine bay. In the past
I installed a new harness in> my Bugeye during that restoration
without much trouble. That is a much> simpler harness though. The
harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on> under the bonnet. I can
see the general physical routing of the main> harness in some of the
many pictures I have gathered over the years. It is> a little
intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple> wires
of the same color exit the loom at a single point. One spot has four>
white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown
wire.> Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of
the loom a> couple inches from the bunch of white wires. I can see
what component> these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how
to know which wire of> the same color goes to which connection on that
component. Any suggestions> before I pull out what hair I have left?>
Mike MacLean>  Michael: If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram,
be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher
indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to
check that you have the correct indicator first.  Regards,Mike
Lempert_______________________________________________
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Jul 19 11:54:05 2020
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 11:54:05 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
They came with brass capped dampers.For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampersI am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I remember with previous SU cars.At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.Thoughts ?rg
----- Original Message -----
From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 02 Jul 2020 02:17:15 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

The book is free of charge from Burlen/SU. You just pay the
 shipping.Kees Oudesluijs

Op 2-7-2020 om 01:21 schreef Mark
 Donaldson:
Richard
 and Perry, Both
 of my S.U. books show AUC8112 as the only damper for
 the BJ8AUC8114
 is for the Mk II tri-carb and ALL of the Sprites with the
 exception of the Bugeye (S.U. calls it ?Frogeye? as do you
 British listers) which has AUC8103 AUC8115
 is found in the HD8s fitted to E-type Jags and the 4 litre
 Jensen 541 from 1960 ? 1963. For
 you Anoraks out there, my main S.U. book by S.U. is called
 SPARE PARTS AND SPECIFICATION CATALOGUE.  It runs to 179
 pages and is spiral bound.I
 got it at the Goodwood Revival back in 2015.  It is a very
 useful little handbook.It
 has everything you wanted to know about S.U. carburettors,
 but were too afraid to ask.  \uD83D\uDE0A MarkArdmoreNZ From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, 2 July 2020 5:25 a.m.
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>;
 healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper
 part #s The carbs I have on hand
 have the most common, and perhaps the correct piston rod 
 AUC8112.  Also found AUC8114.  My factory 3000/BJ8 parts
 book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for
 the moment so I can not verify what part the factory called
 for.  The weight of the piston body (very small weight at
 the end of the damper rod) should not have a bearing on the
 operation as it can only move vertically 1/16 inch and is
 otherwise fixed in place. I checked the diameter of the
 piston body on several and they all appear to be the same.
 The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper
 carb operation. I had asked the SU
 dealer in England for guidance for use of the different
 numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted
 email to the list.P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s From the various
 responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct
 damper for the HD8s.  The main difference between the
 dampers that I can observe appears to be the size of the
 very small weight at the end of the damper rod.  ----------
 Forwarded message ---------

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>

Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM

Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> I have 3 sets of HD8
 carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.  AUC8112,
 AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8? 
_______________________________________________
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 12:07:07 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 11:07:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>

Are the brass caps vented?  In my earlier post about the various caps I had
on some sets of HD8s, one of the caps was AUC 8114.  A responder pointed
out that that cap came on a tri-carb set up. Looking more closely I noticed
there was no vent hole in that cap. Why?  Because the carbs on the tri-carb
set up had vents in the dashpots. HD8 dashpots are not vented so the cap
should be to be vented.
I'm just guessing, but would happen if a non vented cap is put on an HD8
carb?  Would the oil get sucked out of the carb?

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by
> numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
> They came with brass capped dampers.
> For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers
> I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I
> remember with previous SU cars.
> At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.
> Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.
> Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.
> Thoughts ?
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, 02 Jul 2020 02:17:15 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
>
> The book is free of charge from Burlen/SU. You just pay the
> shipping.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 2-7-2020 om 01:21 schreef Mark
> Donaldson:
>
> Richard
> and Perry,
>
>
>
> Both
> of my S.U. books show *AUC8112* as the only damper for
> the BJ8
>
> *AUC8114*
> is for the Mk II tri-carb and ALL of the Sprites with the
> exception of the Bugeye (S.U. calls it ?Frogeye? as do you
> British listers) which has *AUC8103*
>
>
>
> *AUC8115*
> is found in the HD8s fitted to E-type Jags and the 4 litre
> Jensen 541 from 1960 ? 1963.
>
>
>
> For
> you Anoraks out there, my main S.U. book by S.U. is called
> SPARE PARTS AND SPECIFICATION CATALOGUE.  It runs to 179
> pages and is spiral bound.
>
> I
> got it at the Goodwood Revival back in 2015.  It is a very
> useful little handbook.
>
> It
> has everything you wanted to know about S.U. carburettors,
> but were too afraid to ask.  \uD83D\uDE0A
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
>
>
> *From:* Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, 2 July 2020 5:25 a.m.
> *To:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>;
> healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper
> part #s
>
>
>
> The carbs I have on hand
> have the most common, and perhaps the correct piston rod
> AUC8112.  Also found AUC8114.  My factory 3000/BJ8 parts
> book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for
> the moment so I can not verify what part the factory called
> for.  The weight of the piston body (very small weight at
> the end of the damper rod) should not have a bearing on the
> operation as it can only move vertically 1/16 inch and is
> otherwise fixed in place. I checked the diameter of the
> piston body on several and they all appear to be the same.
> The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper
> carb operation.
>
> I had asked the SU
> dealer in England for guidance for use of the different
> numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted
> email to the list.
>
> P
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
> *To: *healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
>
>
>
> From the various
> responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct
> damper for the HD8s.  The main difference between the
> dampers that I can observe appears to be the size of the
> very small weight at the end of the damper rod.
>
>
>
> ----------
> Forwarded message ---------
>
> From: *richard mayor* <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>
> Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM
>
> Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
> I have 3 sets of HD8
> carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.  AUC8112,
> AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 19 12:40:02 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 11:40:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>
References: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>
Message-ID: <8E680470-A83C-4E2F-870E-5B5F4FF22419@sbcglobal.net>

DO NOT FUSE THE BLUE HEADLIGHT WIRE.

	Why because if you are driving at night and suddenly loose your lights due to a faulty fuse for what ever reason. You will not be able to see and then you never know what may happen.

David Nock


> On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the headlights.  Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming to the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to protect both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end collision.  A short will burn the harness down all the way to the firewall.  Also fuse the blue wire at the headlight switch for the same reason. The fuse box only covers the horns, battery (50A) and key on items (35A). If you use US made fuses cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp Buss fuses
> 
> Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener). Hank, healeyhelper.com
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" 
> To: "Team.net"
> Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
> Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
> 
> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
> Absolutely 
> 
> On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
> 
>> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
>> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
>> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
>> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
>> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
>> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
>> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
>> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
>> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
>> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
>> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
>> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
>> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
>> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
>> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
>> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
>> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
>> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
>> > Mike MacLean
>> > 
>>  
>> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 
>>  
>> Regards,
>> Mike Lempert
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/>  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>  <http://autox.team.net/archive>http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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> 
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 19:31:38 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 21:31:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <8E680470-A83C-4E2F-870E-5B5F4FF22419@sbcglobal.net>
References: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>
 <8E680470-A83C-4E2F-870E-5B5F4FF22419@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6yt_mxFicHSJVwFtacm7N4aFjkBYhUX1dfrkMABNWtig@mail.gmail.com>

David--

I have never understood this approach though I know it is what you, your
Dad and some others espouse.

Here's my issue:  If a short-circuit/overload should occur with no
sacrificial fuse isn't it likely that the wiring will be destroyed with
insulation melted at the point of the short, requiring replacement of the
wire?  If so, how is one worse off with a fuse protecting the circuit--in
either case there will be no lights but with a fuse it is possible one
might find the cause of the problem and cure it while on the road with no
need to later pull new wires, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:40 PM David Nock via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> DO NOT FUSE THE BLUE HEADLIGHT WIRE.
>
> Why because if you are driving at night and suddenly loose your lights due
> to a faulty fuse for what ever reason. You will not be able to see and then
> you never know what may happen.
>
> David Nock
>
>
> On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the
> headlights.  Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming to
> the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to protect
> both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end collision.  A short
> will burn the harness down all the way to the firewall.  Also fuse the blue
> wire at the headlight switch for the same reason. The fuse box only covers
> the horns, battery (50A) and key on items (35A). If you use US made fuses
> cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp Buss fuses
>
> Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener). Hank,
> healeyhelper.com
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael Salter via Healeys"
> To: "Team.net"
> Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
> Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
>
> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
> *Absolutely*
>
> On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
>> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>>
>> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the
>> engine
>> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
>> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of
>> the
>> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the
>> part
>> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
>> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness
>> in
>> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
>> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
>> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
>> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.
>> It is
>> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
>> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has
>> four
>> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
>> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
>> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
>> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which
>> wire of
>> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any
>> suggestions
>> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
>> > Mike MacLean
>> >
>>
>> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that
>> there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the
>> dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the
>> correct indicator first.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Mike Lempert
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/>  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
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>>
>>
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>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jul 20 07:34:02 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 13:34:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>

I will assume you have the correct damper (vented or non-vented) for the application.Most people I know fill the dash pot damper tube by filling it up to the top of the tube. That is over filling. As soon as you insert the damper an amount of oil is displaced. When you remove the damper the oil level looks low, but it is not. To test the oil level insert the damper into the tube. At first the damper will go in easily, then you will sense resistance as you continue to insert it. That point is the level of the oil. Unless you are racing the car you should use the recommended oil for this application. Having to fill them every 2 tanks if gas, if they are actually loosing that much oil, is excessive.?I would remove the dash pots, piston & damp. Examine them closely.?Gary




On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
They came with brass capped dampers.
For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers
I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I remember with previous SU cars.
At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.
Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.
Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.
Thoughts ?
rg




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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 08:24:06 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 10:24:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper
In-Reply-To: <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKFDpd5kyhwDy_u7RUxvna+B7kOcW_OaZu0xft0o+sLaA@mail.gmail.com>

Totally agree with Gary's comments.

M

On Mon., Jul. 20, 2020, 9:34 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I will assume you have the correct damper (vented or non-vented) for the
> application.
> Most people I know fill the dash pot damper tube by filling it up to the
> top of the tube. That is over filling. As soon as you insert the damper an
> amount of oil is displaced. When you remove the damper the oil level looks
> low, but it is not. To test the oil level insert the damper into the tube.
> At first the damper will go in easily, then you will sense resistance as
> you continue to insert it. That point is the level of the oil. Unless you
> are racing the car you should use the recommended oil for this application.
> Having to fill them every 2 tanks if gas, if they are actually loosing that
> much oil, is excessive.
> I would remove the dash pots, piston & damp. Examine them closely.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by
> numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
> They came with brass capped dampers.
> For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers
> I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I
> remember with previous SU cars.
> At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.
> Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.
> Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.
> Thoughts ?
> rg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 20 09:15:02 2020
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 08:15:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6yt_mxFicHSJVwFtacm7N4aFjkBYhUX1dfrkMABNWtig@mail.gmail.com>
References: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>
 <8E680470-A83C-4E2F-870E-5B5F4FF22419@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAPTa0B6yt_mxFicHSJVwFtacm7N4aFjkBYhUX1dfrkMABNWtig@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <347D95C00647486BA335CEB593EFC48A@DavidNockHP>

Headlights are not fused with a single fuse for safety reasons. If there is an electrical fault that blows a fuse you will loose all lights.

If you want to protect the light circuit  I would recommend Installing a separate fuse for each light. Left and Right both high and low beams.

However in 45 years of working on British Cars. I do not remember a electrical fire due to a headlight issue. I have see lots damage to the white wire circuit due to damage under the car causing a short. Also have seen the red wire to the tail and dash lights also due to damage to the harness under the car or things in the trunk.  Usually if there is an electrical short it is caused by the rubber connectors rotting away and shorting out, or an old cloth harness that needed replaced anyway.

 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2020 6:31 PM
To: David Nock 
Cc: gradea1 at charter.net ; Ahealey help ; Michael Lempert 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins

David--

I have never understood this approach though I know it is what you, your Dad and some others espouse.

Here's my issue:  If a short-circuit/overload should occur with no sacrificial fuse isn't it likely that the wiring will be destroyed with insulation melted at the point of the short, requiring replacement of the wire?  If so, how is one worse off with a fuse protecting the circuit--in either case there will be no lights but with a fuse it is possible one might find the cause of the problem and cure it while on the road with no need to later pull new wires, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:40 PM David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  DO NOT FUSE THE BLUE HEADLIGHT WIRE. 

  Why because if you are driving at night and suddenly loose your lights due to a faulty fuse for what ever reason. You will not be able to see and then you never know what may happen.

  David Nock



    On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

    There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the headlights.  Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming to the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to protect both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end collision.  A short will burn the harness down all the way to the firewall.  Also fuse the blue wire at the headlight switch for the same reason. The fuse box only covers the horns, battery (50A) and key on items (35A). If you use US made fuses cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp Buss fuses 

    Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener). Hank, healeyhelper.com


    -----------------------------------------

    From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" 
    To: "Team.net"
    Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
    Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
    Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins


    Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.

    Absolutely 

    On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

      Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.



        On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


        > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
        > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
        > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
        > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
        > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
        > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
        > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
        > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
        > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
        > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
        > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
        > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
        > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
        > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
        > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
        > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
        > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
        > before I pull out what hair I have left?
        > Mike MacLean
        > 

        Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 

        Regards,
        Mike Lempert
        _______________________________________________
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From roggrace at telus.net  Mon Jul 20 10:28:04 2020
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 10:28:04 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKFDpd5kyhwDy_u7RUxvna+B7kOcW_OaZu0xft0o+sLaA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKFDpd5kyhwDy_u7RUxvna+B7kOcW_OaZu0xft0o+sLaA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1893322601.33642873.1595262484239.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Thanks.
These brass dampers with no ID are vented.Agree adding oil is a fiddly procedure.I try to aim for 3/8 to 1/2 in above top of threads before I feel any resistance.Yes need to investigate further - could find nothing 18 months ago and sort of hoped would go away and ignored it.One of those mysteries of life !rg
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 08:24:06 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper

Totally agree with Gary's comments. 
M
On Mon., Jul. 20, 2020, 9:34 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
I will assume you have the correct damper (vented or non-vented) for the application.
Most people I know fill the dash pot damper tube by filling it up to the top of the tube. That is over filling. As soon as you insert the damper an amount of oil is displaced. When you remove the damper the oil level looks low, but it is not. To test the oil level insert the damper into the tube. At first the damper will go in easily, then you will sense resistance as you continue to insert it. That point is the level of the oil. Unless you are racing the car you should use the recommended oil for this application. Having to fill them every 2 tanks if gas, if they are actually loosing that much oil, is excessive. 
I would remove the dash pots, piston & damp. Examine them closely. Gary




On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.They came with brass capped dampers.For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampersI am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I remember with previous SU cars.At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.Thoughts ?rg


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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 11:10:26 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 13:10:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper
In-Reply-To: <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5dbkRwH93Tk836_P-edRJRK1FqfSqs0gLyc1x1JVmZHA@mail.gmail.com>

Original 3-in-1 oil is SAE 20 weight ND as recommended and comes in a handy
applicator can.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:35 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I will assume you have the correct damper (vented or non-vented) for the
> application.
> Most people I know fill the dash pot damper tube by filling it up to the
> top of the tube. That is over filling. As soon as you insert the damper an
> amount of oil is displaced. When you remove the damper the oil level looks
> low, but it is not. To test the oil level insert the damper into the tube.
> At first the damper will go in easily, then you will sense resistance as
> you continue to insert it. That point is the level of the oil. Unless you
> are racing the car you should use the recommended oil for this application.
> Having to fill them every 2 tanks if gas, if they are actually loosing that
> much oil, is excessive.
> I would remove the dash pots, piston & damp. Examine them closely.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by
> numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
> They came with brass capped dampers.
> For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers
> I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I
> remember with previous SU cars.
> At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.
> Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.
> Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.
> Thoughts ?
> rg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 12:29:22 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 19:29:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6yt_mxFicHSJVwFtacm7N4aFjkBYhUX1dfrkMABNWtig@mail.gmail.com>
References: <278af149f4206351abe3ce58b21fa39a49123be5@webmail>
 <8E680470-A83C-4E2F-870E-5B5F4FF22419@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAPTa0B6yt_mxFicHSJVwFtacm7N4aFjkBYhUX1dfrkMABNWtig@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxcmQgwvs4U2xwcH=weMQNbeA+gRiHvzDjXSAdHrQPO6rQ@mail.gmail.com>

Not necessarily at the point of the short. The whole length of the
wire from the power source to the short will heat up with the most damage
happening when the wire is inside a loom where little heat will be able to
get away

On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 02:32, Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> David--
>
> I have never understood this approach though I know it is what you, your
> Dad and some others espouse.
>
> Here's my issue:  If a short-circuit/overload should occur with no
> sacrificial fuse isn't it likely that the wiring will be destroyed with
> insulation melted at the point of the short, requiring replacement of the
> wire?  If so, how is one worse off with a fuse protecting the circuit--in
> either case there will be no lights but with a fuse it is possible one
> might find the cause of the problem and cure it while on the road with no
> need to later pull new wires, etc.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:40 PM David Nock via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> DO NOT FUSE THE BLUE HEADLIGHT WIRE.
>>
>> Why because if you are driving at night and suddenly loose your lights
>> due to a faulty fuse for what ever reason. You will not be able to see and
>> then you never know what may happen.
>>
>> David Nock
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the
>> headlights.  Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming to
>> the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to protect
>> both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end collision.  A short
>> will burn the harness down all the way to the firewall.  Also fuse the blue
>> wire at the headlight switch for the same reason. The fuse box only covers
>> the horns, battery (50A) and key on items (35A). If you use US made fuses
>> cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp Buss fuses
>>
>> Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener). Hank,
>> healeyhelper.com
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>> From: "Michael Salter via Healeys"
>> To: "Team.net"
>> Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
>> Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins
>>
>> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything
>> on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>> *Absolutely*
>>
>> On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn
>>> anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.
>>>
>>> On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the
>>> engine
>>> > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
>>> > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of
>>> the
>>> > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the
>>> part
>>> > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
>>> > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness
>>> in
>>> > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
>>> > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going
>>> on
>>> > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
>>> > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.
>>> It is
>>> > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when
>>> multiple
>>> > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has
>>> four
>>> > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
>>> > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom
>>> a
>>> > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
>>> > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which
>>> wire of
>>> > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any
>>> suggestions
>>> > before I pull out what hair I have left?
>>> > Mike MacLean
>>> >
>>>
>>> Michael:  If you?re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that
>>> there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the
>>> dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the
>>> correct indicator first.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Mike Lempert
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/>  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 20 15:54:14 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:54:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5dbkRwH93Tk836_P-edRJRK1FqfSqs0gLyc1x1JVmZHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1722586702.3609685.1595252042626@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAPTa0B5dbkRwH93Tk836_P-edRJRK1FqfSqs0gLyc1x1JVmZHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA0PR22MB228630A7B22C43791069EF1AD17B0@SA0PR22MB2286.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Several years ago, sometimes in 2000, Jim Taylor, a former retired Design Engineer with over 30 years of experience, shared his knowledge of the SU carbs in a series of articles and have kept them in a binder and copied the relevant ones relating to the topic being discussed in the last couple of days. I hope this helps.

Jean


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 20, 2020 12:11 PM
To: warthodson at aol.com<mailto:warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 dashpot damper

Original 3-in-1 oil is SAE 20 weight ND as recommended and comes in a handy applicator can.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:35 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
I will assume you have the correct damper (vented or non-vented) for the application.
Most people I know fill the dash pot damper tube by filling it up to the top of the tube. That is over filling. As soon as you insert the damper an amount of oil is displaced. When you remove the damper the oil level looks low, but it is not. To test the oil level insert the damper into the tube. At first the damper will go in easily, then you will sense resistance as you continue to insert it. That point is the level of the oil. Unless you are racing the car you should use the recommended oil for this application. Having to fill them every 2 tanks if gas, if they are actually loosing that much oil, is excessive.
I would remove the dash pots, piston & damp. Examine them closely.
Gary




On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.
They came with brass capped dampers.
For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers
I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I remember with previous SU cars.
At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.
Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.
Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.
Thoughts ?
rg



_______________________________________________
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Mon Jul 20 20:34:05 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 14:34:05 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14511465.32699297.1595181225616.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <40988970-dd42-1162-9388-829eecd663c9@chello.nl>
 <1509357389.32699388.1595181245980.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAKkXjqMsJ2nQ3DwOe5mm5uciAGubfyisWc4Zm-fEKOCLe0VNBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004201d65f07$68b9b8a0$3a2d29e0$@xtra.co.nz>

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Monday, 20 July 2020 6:07 a.m.
To: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

 

Are the brass caps vented?  In my earlier post about the various caps I had on some sets of HD8s, one of the caps was AUC 8114.  A responder pointed out that that cap came on a tri-carb set up. Looking more closely I noticed there was no vent hole in that cap. Why?  Because the carbs on the tri-carb set up had vents in the dashpots. HD8 dashpots are not vented so the cap should be to be vented.

 

Just to throw the cat in amongst the pigeons, whilst the BJ8 HD8s are dustless non-vented ? Jaguar HD8s ARE vented.  

I have a pair currently sitting on my work bench.  So if Roger has a set of those on his car, he should be using non-vented dampers.

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

I'm just guessing, but would happen if a non vented cap is put on an HD8 carb?  Would the oil get sucked out of the carb? 

 

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:54 AM Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

A few years ago as my BJ8 carbs had been so molested over the years by numerous PO's bought a pair of new HD8 from Burlein.

They came with brass capped dampers.

For the life of me, cannot see any part numbers on the dampers

I am curious/suspicious as seem to have to top up more frequently than I remember with previous SU cars.

At least after every 2 tanks of gas driving time.

Not accurately checked standing time with no driving.

Where does the oil go ? Makes no difference what grade that I use.

Thoughts ?

rg

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thu, 02 Jul 2020 02:17:15 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

The book is free of charge from Burlen/SU. You just pay the
shipping.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 2-7-2020 om 01:21 schreef Mark
Donaldson:

Richard and Perry,

Both of my S.U. books show AUC8112 as the only damper for the BJ8

AUC8114 is for the Mk II tri-carb and ALL of the Sprites with the
exception of the Bugeye (S.U. calls it ?Frogeye? as do you British listers) which has AUC8103

AUC8115 is found in the HD8s fitted to E-type Jags and the 4 litre Jensen 541 from 1960 ? 1963.

For you Anoraks out there, my main S.U. book by S.U. is called SPARE PARTS AND SPECIFICATION CATALOGUE.  It runs to 179
pages and is spiral bound.

I got it at the Goodwood Revival back in 2015.  It is a very useful little handbook.  It has everything you wanted to know about S.U. carburettors, but were too afraid to ask.  \uD83D\uDE0A

Mark

Ardmore

NZ

From: Perry  <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com> <healeyguy at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, 2 July 2020 5:25 a.m.
To: richard mayor  <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>;
healeys  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

The carbs I have on hand
have the most common, and perhaps the correct piston rod 
AUC8112.  Also found AUC8114.  My factory 3000/BJ8 parts
book covering the HD8 carbs has conveniently disappeared for
the moment so I can not verify what part the factory called
for.  The weight of the piston body (very small weight at
the end of the damper rod) should not have a bearing on the
operation as it can only move vertically 1/16 inch and is
otherwise fixed in place. I checked the diameter of the
piston body on several and they all appear to be the same.
The diameter would seem to be much more important for proper
carb operation. 

I had asked the SU
dealer in England for guidance for use of the different
numbered parts but have not heard back, thus this convoluted
email to the list.

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: richard mayor via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34 PM
To: healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

 

>From the various
responses I received it seems that AUC8112 is the correct
damper for the HD8s.  The main difference between the
dampers that I can observe appears to be the size of the
very small weight at the end of the damper rod. 

 

----------
Forwarded message ---------

 

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >

 

Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2020 at 6:10 PM

 

Subject: HD8 dashpot damper part #s

 

To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >

 

I have 3 sets of HD8
carburetors all with different dashpot dampers.  AUC8112,
AUC8114 and AUC8115.  What is the correct damper for a BJ8?

 

 

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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl

 

 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 21 02:35:51 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 08:35:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear License plate Light
References: <982557296.4761453.1595320551568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <982557296.4761453.1595320551568@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone tell me where the two wires for the license plate light exit the body of my BN2?? Anyone have a picture of that location?? I am afraid it was not addressed during the extensive bodywork on this car.Mike MacLean
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Tue Jul 21 06:07:23 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 08:07:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear License plate Light
In-Reply-To: <982557296.4761453.1595320551568@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <982557296.4761453.1595320551568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <982557296.4761453.1595320551568@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.19.1595333254.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Had the same problem w/my car, so here are 2 pix of a 100 (I assume BN1 & BN2 are the same) taken at the Hershey Hill Climb in 2014.  The location of the wire hole & the license plate bolts matched some of the holes in my car?s shroud.
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA





Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 21 20:20:22 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 19:20:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Quote
Message-ID: <e0b8c6a9-222d-1de6-f89e-158a9ba28630@comcast.net>

Caught this on the AOPA email newsletter, and I gotta believe the Great 
Man was referring to working on British cars:

"Success is not final; failure is not fatal: It is the courage to 
continue that counts."

- Sir Winston Churchill



From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Jul 21 22:01:41 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 04:01:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Quote
In-Reply-To: <e0b8c6a9-222d-1de6-f89e-158a9ba28630@comcast.net>
References: <e0b8c6a9-222d-1de6-f89e-158a9ba28630@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213C3906869A6826E1E9704A5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I would think the second phrase might not be applicable within the AOPA.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 2:20 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Quote

Caught this on the AOPA email newsletter, and I gotta believe the Great
Man was referring to working on British cars:

"Success is not final; failure is not fatal: It is the courage to
continue that counts."

- Sir Winston Churchill


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 22 04:57:25 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 06:57:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
Message-ID: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

I have been asked the function of the screw (circled) on the angle drive
shown in the photo.  I have no idea.  Can anyone help?

 

Thanks,

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 06:39:30 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 12:39:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Not sure either but possibly it is there for a lubrication point without having to remove the unit from either the cable end or the overdrive end.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Max Byers via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 22, 2020 6:02 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw

Hello, Healeyphiles ?

I have been asked the function of the screw (circled) on the angle drive shown in the photo.  I have no idea.  Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 22 06:57:42 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 08:57:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] new BAT auction
Message-ID: <167e9b6f-4fc5-7e1e-9386-e578a8856205@earthlink.net>

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1955-austin-healey-100s
-- 
Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 06:58:05 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 08:58:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>

The earliest 100s have "flat" hinges. In addition to the 4 countersink
screws securing the hinges to the door post there is a single hex head
5/16" UNF screw in the center of the hinge plate.
These screws can cause problems after they are installed because they can
prevent the hinges from closing completely and can cause distortion of the
hinge mount(s).
I'm completely at a loss to understand a purpose for these screws ... does
anyone have any idea why they are there?

Thanks,

M
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 07:16:32 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 09:16:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
References: <C5CE173D-6199-4FD1-A864-792EB2A2FFD2.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C5CE173D-6199-4FD1-A864-792EB2A2FFD2@aol.com>

The screw is to short to hold anything in place and happens to line up with the ?screw? gear. If the screw was much longer it would wreck the gear. As Jean mention it appears to be the location to lube the gear set. 
I did not find a reference to this maintenance task in the manuals but I did not look very hard either. 

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Perry
Sent from my iPhone

From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 09:03:41 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 08:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <C5CE173D-6199-4FD1-A864-792EB2A2FFD2@aol.com>
References: <C5CE173D-6199-4FD1-A864-792EB2A2FFD2.ref@aol.com>
 <C5CE173D-6199-4FD1-A864-792EB2A2FFD2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C71D45907C5A44A5A560A106499ABDC1@DavidNockHP>

I have seen some old early angle drives that had a grease fitting there. The 
problem is it you greased the angle drive you could very easily push the 
thing apart.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Perry Small via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 6:16 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw

The screw is to short to hold anything in place and happens to line up with 
the ?screw? gear. If the screw was much longer it would wreck the gear. As 
Jean mention it appears to be the location to lube the gear set.
I did not find a reference to this maintenance task in the manuals but I did 
not look very hard either.

















Perry
Sent from my iPhone





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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Jul 22 09:21:05 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 15:21:05 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I never noticed the holes were threaded. I just used them to position the threaded plate while attempting to start the hinge screws. Maybe they were used for that and the extra screw removed after the hinge was in place.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt

The earliest 100s have "flat" hinges. In addition to the 4 countersink screws securing the hinges to the door post there is a single hex head 5/16" UNF screw in the center of the hinge plate.
These screws can cause problems after they are installed because they can prevent the hinges from closing completely and can cause distortion of the hinge mount(s).
I'm completely at a loss to understand a purpose for these screws ... does anyone have any idea why they are there?

Thanks,

M
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 09:47:32 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 11:47:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+cnrBS-raqRraMgk0m1m9gxFQqMLLs7nn2Vkicxkzu8w@mail.gmail.com>

Just an update.
[image: image.png]
This is a picture of a hinge on B.# 1267, a very original 5000 mile car and
the bolts are in place however, upon close inspection I notice that they
are marked WILEY B which means that they were BSF, not UNF as I had thought.

M



On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 11:21 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> I never noticed the holes were threaded. I just used them to position the
> threaded plate while attempting to start the hinge screws. Maybe they were
> used for that and the extra screw removed after the hinge was in place.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:58 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
>
> The earliest 100s have "flat" hinges. In addition to the 4 countersink
> screws securing the hinges to the door post there is a single hex head
> 5/16" UNF screw in the center of the hinge plate.
> These screws can cause problems after they are installed because they can
> prevent the hinges from closing completely and can cause distortion of the
> hinge mount(s).
> I'm completely at a loss to understand a purpose for these screws ... does
> anyone have any idea why they are there?
>
> Thanks,
>
> M
>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 10:05:16 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 09:05:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+cnrBS-raqRraMgk0m1m9gxFQqMLLs7nn2Vkicxkzu8w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7L+cnrBS-raqRraMgk0m1m9gxFQqMLLs7nn2Vkicxkzu8w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <46890DD916BC4EF5A36C5093F2CE1177@DavidNockHP>

I would think that they were there to help in the alignment of the doors.  Only one bolt to tighten and loosed as you aligned the door. Then install or tighten the counter sunk screws when the door is straight

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Michael Salter via Healeys 
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 8:47 AM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE 
Cc: Michael Salter via Healeys 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt

Just an update.

This is a picture of a hinge on B.# 1267, a very original 5000 mile car and the bolts are in place however, upon close inspection I notice that they are marked WILEY B which means that they were BSF, not UNF as I had thought.

M




On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 11:21 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

  I never noticed the holes were threaded. I just used them to position the threaded plate while attempting to start the hinge screws. Maybe they were used for that and the extra screw removed after the hinge was in place.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:58 PM
  To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt 

  The earliest 100s have "flat" hinges. In addition to the 4 countersink screws securing the hinges to the door post there is a single hex head 5/16" UNF screw in the center of the hinge plate.  
  These screws can cause problems after they are installed because they can prevent the hinges from closing completely and can cause distortion of the hinge mount(s).
  I'm completely at a loss to understand a purpose for these screws ... does anyone have any idea why they are there?

  Thanks,

  M


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 10:13:20 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 12:13:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge Center Bolt
References: <F8A88621-6352-4463-877E-1EB9D27258C5.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F8A88621-6352-4463-877E-1EB9D27258C5@aol.com>

The center bolt on this hinge set is a 1/4 inch hex head. Original use is still a mystery to me but after hanging doors during a body panel fit, over and over during a restoration, I suspect it was intended to hold the hinge to the A post before the front fenders were hung. Just a wild guess on my part. 

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Sent from my iPhone

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jul 22 10:34:19 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 10:34:19 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge Center Bolt
In-Reply-To: <F8A88621-6352-4463-877E-1EB9D27258C5@aol.com>
References: <F8A88621-6352-4463-877E-1EB9D27258C5.ref@aol.com>
 <F8A88621-6352-4463-877E-1EB9D27258C5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <101ba4e0-4d4a-07da-8282-4f4064680955@porterscustom.com>

I'll do this when doing a restoration.. drill small self tapping 
locating screws after hinge location is confirmed.. saves many minutes 
of off and on fitting which is a normal occurrence.

On 7/22/2020 10:13 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
> The center bolt on this hinge set is a 1/4 inch hex head. Original use is still a mystery to me but after hanging doors during a body panel fit, over and over during a restoration, I suspect it was intended to hold the hinge to the A post before the front fenders were hung. Just a wild guess on my part.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 22 10:43:54 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 16:43:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>

Same kind of lube point screw in OEM gear reduction drives for Bugeye speedos.? Just like everything else on these cars, you can't hurt it by lubing the crap out of anything that moves.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 5:40 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

  
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 22 12:11:43 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 14:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>

Since the location of the screw on the angle drives for BJ7s and BJ8s makes it quite an operation to use it for lubrication purposes, I conclude that the screw is just there for when the same drive is used on other vehicles with better access.    I bet very few BJ7/BJ8 owners have ever lubricated the angle drive, so it must not be critical.

 

Thanks to all for the responses.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:44 PM
To: Jean Caron; Jean Caron via Healeys; Max Byers; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw

 

Same kind of lube point screw in OEM gear reduction drives for Bugeye speedos.  Just like everything else on these cars, you can't hurt it by lubing the crap out of anything that moves.

Mike MacLean

Sent <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>  from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android

 

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 5:40 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys

<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20>  http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 14:16:01 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 16:16:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>
 <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1595448973.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Steve/Listers
When we left Hawaii nearly ten years ago, I went through a purge of used damaged parts or parts that were not worth the effort. At that time I had a box of used angle drives, probably 20-25, maybe more and not one was usable.  Either the cover plate was missing, the gears were chewed up or some other self destruction issue. There were a lot of the units that were totally dry inside. Even had on that looked like it had melted. I never figured that one out.
The best of the bits were gathered up and the rest were tossed.  As it turned out there was lots of room in the shipping containers and those little parts would have fit easily. Still shipped 19,000 pounds of parts including a hundred shock cores and other seemingly eternal Austin Healey parts like brake drums, a monumental amount of brake shoes and many suspension bits, but that is a different story.  
Perhaps at what ever interval the gearbox/OD cover is removed for any maintenance that it would be a good idea to squeeze a little bit of grease into the unit. I guess it would be good to lube your speedo cable at the same time. Don?t overdo it as too much grease will produce a negative outcome. ?
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Max Byers via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 2:15 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw

Since the location of the screw on the angle drives for BJ7s and BJ8s makes it quite an operation to use it for lubrication purposes, I conclude that the screw is just there for when the same drive is used on other vehicles with better access.??? I bet very few BJ7/BJ8 owners have ever lubricated the angle drive, so it must not be critical.
?
Thanks to all for the responses.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC? USA

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:44 PM
To: Jean Caron; Jean Caron via Healeys; Max Byers; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw

Same kind of lube point screw in OEM gear reduction drives for Bugeye speedos.? Just like everything else on these cars, you can't hurt it by lubing the crap out of anything that moves.
Mike MacLean
Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 5:40 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 20:14:04 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:14:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>
 <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <a2ae7d6a-799e-f155-9ca7-c3061a6a1a6a@comcast.net>

I don't recall doing it, but I think you can get to it from underneath 
by unscrewing the speedo cable, loosening the drive at the O/D and 
rotating it. I've got my BJ8 on the grease pit, I'll see if it's 
possible next time I go fight the spiders.

On 7/22/2020 11:11 AM, Max Byers via Healeys wrote:
>
> Since the location of the screw on the angle drives for BJ7s and BJ8s 
> makes it quite an operation to use it for lubrication purposes, I 
> conclude that the screw is just there for when the same drive is used 
> on other vehicles with better access.??? I bet very few BJ7/BJ8 owners 
> have ever lubricated the angle drive, so it must not be critical.
>
> Thanks to all for the responses.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC? USA
>
> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:44 PM
> *To:* Jean Caron; Jean Caron via Healeys; Max Byers; 
> healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
>
> Same kind of lube point screw in OEM gear reduction drives for Bugeye 
> speedos.? Just like everything else on these cars, you can't hurt it 
> by lubing the crap out of anything that moves.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 20:20:00 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:20:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
In-Reply-To: <20200722201640.CB94AA1857@autox.team.net>
References: <01a101d66016$e2b443e0$a81ccba0$@rr.com>
 <DM6PR22MB2278D2E2E02DCB9D27C97B0AD1790@DM6PR22MB2278.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <535722132.5571040.1595436234543@mail.yahoo.com>
 <023601d66053$8e87e0f0$ab97a2d0$@rr.com>
 <20200722201640.CB94AA1857@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5ae5a146-2f71-635c-5e28-902d1797376e@comcast.net>

IIRC, the 6-cyl drivers aren't terribly expensive, but last I checked 
the 4-cyl drives were a couple hundred bucks. My dad and I spent a 
weekend rebuilding one; works great with a rebuilt speedo. Now, if I 
could only get the tach to behave.

On 7/22/2020 1:16 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>
> Steve/Listers
>
> When we left Hawaii nearly ten years ago, I went through a purge of 
> used damaged parts or parts that were not worth the effort. At that 
> time I had a box of used angle drives, probably 20-25, maybe more and 
> not one was usable. Either the cover plate was missing, the gears were 
> chewed up or some other self destruction issue. There were a lot of 
> the units that were totally dry inside. Even had on that looked like 
> it had melted. I never figured that one out.
>
> The best of the bits were gathered up and the rest were tossed.? As it 
> turned out there was lots of room in the shipping containers and those 
> little parts would have fit easily. Still shipped 19,000 pounds of 
> parts including a hundred shock cores and other seemingly eternal 
> Austin Healey parts like brake drums, a monumental amount of brake 
> shoes and many suspension bits, but that is a different story.
>
> Perhaps at what ever interval the gearbox/OD cover is removed for any 
> maintenance that it would be a good idea to squeeze a little bit of 
> grease into the unit. I guess it would be good to lube your speedo 
> cable at the same time. Don?t overdo it as too much grease will 
> produce a negative outcome. ?
>
> P
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Max Byers via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 22, 2020 2:15 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
>
> Since the location of the screw on the angle drives for BJ7s and BJ8s 
> makes it quite an operation to use it for lubrication purposes, I 
> conclude that the screw is just there for when the same drive is used 
> on other vehicles with better access.??? I bet very few BJ7/BJ8 owners 
> have ever lubricated the angle drive, so it must not be critical.
>
> Thanks to all for the responses.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:44 PM
> *To:* Jean Caron; Jean Caron via Healeys; Max Byers; 
> healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Angle drive screw
>
> Same kind of lube point screw in OEM gear reduction drives for Bugeye 
> speedos.? Just like everything else on these cars, you can't hurt it 
> by lubing the crap out of anything that moves.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>     On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 5:40 AM, Jean Caron via Healeys
>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 23 20:19:34 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2020 19:19:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] One plate law
Message-ID: <CABXhz89FinzuUvH-53xMjvuB1gj33URX3DH0c+sU9Rir_bOfBA@mail.gmail.com>

I sent the following article to my State Senator explaining how this would
save money. He replied with a thanks as in deed they are looking for ways
to cut back.
https://www.wkyc.com/article/news/local/ohio/ohio-will-no-longer-require-front-license-plates-beginning-july-1/95-47cc3139-bb18-4f5b-9dc4-0e1a67704e51
Please share
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 18:59:24 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2020 17:59:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
In-Reply-To: <c709hf5j3jagtugpgqbb1im9q3muglqi42@4ax.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c709hf5j3jagtugpgqbb1im9q3muglqi42@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQHmNqzoV7=+zdQ_A5EwBvuHt_=k_CFpon6nup8weX-Mw@mail.gmail.com>

Gentlemen,

Thank you for the kind referral.

Attached are photos of the repair to Mike MacLean's switch after it was
completely destroyed in a violent home invasion robbery attempt, by what he
believes were a mob of jealous MG owners ;-^) Mike said that he had to use
the switch attached to the long stator tube to beat away the attackers.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:23 AM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bite the bullet, Michael, and send your Trafficator to Curt Arndt in
> Carlsbad, CA.  You will be happy with the results.
> -Roland

On Jul 19, 2020, at 15:52, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling feature of my
trafficator has stopped working.  In addition to repairs the bakelite could
use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both
rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.  Though not a requirement I would
prefer someone on the east coast but am willing to travel....

Best--Michael Oritt
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 20 10:09:58 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:09:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQHmNqzoV7=+zdQ_A5EwBvuHt_=k_CFpon6nup8weX-Mw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4xEDkKd696s0pvj49-+NtXYPSn1RJQXn3oKOya6eaF=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c709hf5j3jagtugpgqbb1im9q3muglqi42@4ax.com>
 <CAJKrNeQHmNqzoV7=+zdQ_A5EwBvuHt_=k_CFpon6nup8weX-Mw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <650787362.4359787.1595261398495@mail.yahoo.com>

 Only a slight exaggeration on Curt's part.? It was Triumph owners.Mike M

    On Sunday, July 19, 2020, 5:59:41 PM PDT, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Gentlemen,??
Thank you for the kind referral.??
Attached are photos of the repair to Mike MacLean's switch after it was completely destroyed in a violent home invasion?robbery attempt, by what he believes were a mob of jealous MG owners ;-^) Mike said that he had to use the switch attached to the long stator tube to beat away the attackers.
Cheers,
Curt
On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:23 AM sentenac.rw--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Bite the bullet, Michael, and send your Trafficator to Curt Arndt in
Carlsbad, CA.? You will be happy with the results.
-Roland

On Jul 19, 2020, at 15:52, Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
After only 66 years of service the self-cancelling?feature of my trafficator has stopped working.? In addition to repairs the bakelite?could use a restoration and I'd appreciate any references on someone who can both rebuild/repair and refinish the unit.? Though not a requirement I would prefer someone on the east?coast but am willing to travel....

Best--Michael Oritt??  
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Jul 22 17:51:08 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2020 16:51:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LK7d1dTwmf1CtObhKt4K0VKHVgFs8=MNdXA_Yx5+P1wHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR15MB22134BD2597370DEF3BE588FA5790@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTPHY+XG2mGJTVD7ES9a48BzcfxoYXkC6gNTzetWKSqvQ@mail.gmail.com>

William, David and Michael,

These hex screws (at least the one shown on the hinge in the photo) is/are
UNF and *NOT BSF*!

The "B" is the strength rating code and equates to a mild steel screw
equivalent to a US Grade 2.

What denotes a UNF versus a BSF screw is the circular dimple/depression on
the head.  This is outlined in the Austin Service Journal, the Concours
Guidelines, and in the Anderson Moment book section on fasteners (which
BTW, I helped to write).

See the attached documents and the section from my 1957 Machinery's
Handbook on how Unified fasteners (UNC/UNF) are distinguished from
Whitworth (BSW/BSF) fasteners .  The circular depression means it's a
Unified fastener (in this case, a hex head screw).

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, Jul 22, 2020 at 8:21 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I never noticed the holes were threaded. I just used them to position the
> threaded plate while attempting to start the hinge screws. Maybe they were
> used for that and the extra screw removed after the hinge was in place.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2020 12:58 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Door Hinge center bolt
>
> The earliest 100s have "flat" hinges. In addition to the 4 countersink
> screws securing the hinges to the door post there is a single hex head
> 5/16" UNF screw in the center of the hinge plate.
> These screws can cause problems after they are installed because they can
> prevent the hinges from closing completely and can cause distortion of the
> hinge mount(s).
> I'm completely at a loss to understand a purpose for these screws ... does
> anyone have any idea why they are there?
>
> Thanks,
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jul 25 21:25:57 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2020 20:25:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
Message-ID: <C8D6729697B74442874ADA69C7764B9C@AllInOne>

When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare end
where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but the
internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN flare. I
would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should be used when
the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering if the flare on the
brake and clutch was modified at some time. It makes sense to connect the
double flare end to a fitting with and inverted flare bottom but not to an
angled bottom.
 
Am I missing something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does anyone
know where the bubble flare should be used?
 
Thanks... Harold
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Jul 25 22:30:35 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 04:30:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
Message-ID: <cb0f59a0342ef7de31c061f1e95df42227417064@webmail>

Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare

   When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare
end where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but
the internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN
flare. I would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should
be used when the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering
if the flare on the brake and clutch was modified at some time. It
makes sense to connect the double flare end to a fitting with and
inverted flare bottom but not to an angled bottom.   Am I missing
something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does anyone know
where the bubble flare should be used?   Thanks... Harold
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Jul 25 22:32:50 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 04:32:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
Message-ID: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>


Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.

	-----------------------------------------attached

	-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare

   When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare
end where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but
the internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN
flare. I would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should
be used when the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering
if the flare on the brake and clutch was modified at some time. It
makes sense to connect the double flare end to a fitting with and
inverted flare bottom but not to an angled bottom.   Am I missing
something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does anyone know
where the bubble flare should be used?   Thanks... Harold
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 05:19:18 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 07:19:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
In-Reply-To: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>
References: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJiV+=5+hH01gdhva0Syd==Ukt+g0_TvzGrSgL=YS5R6Q@mail.gmail.com>

A bulletin was published early during production that confirmed that
"double" flares and "bubble " flares could be used interchangeably.

M

On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 12:32 a.m. , <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

>
> Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.
>
> -----------------------------------------
> attached
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
>
> When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare end
> where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but the
> internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN flare. I
> would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should be used when
> the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering if the flare on the
> brake and clutch was modified at some time. It makes sense to connect the
> double flare end to a fitting with and inverted flare bottom but not to an
> angled bottom.
>
> Am I missing something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does
> anyone know where the bubble flare should be used?
>
> Thanks... Harold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 07:42:06 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 13:42:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJiV+=5+hH01gdhva0Syd==Ukt+g0_TvzGrSgL=YS5R6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LJiV+=5+hH01gdhva0Syd==Ukt+g0_TvzGrSgL=YS5R6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <919581248.6119571.1595770926809@mail.yahoo.com>

Could someone please provide a copy of that bulletin or a link to it on line?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Jul 26, 2020 6:19 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare

A bulletin was published early during production that confirmed that "double" flares and "bubble " flares could be used interchangeably.?
M
On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 12:32 a.m. , <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:


Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.
-----------------------------------------attached
-----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare

When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare end where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but the internals of the master cylinder fitting?looks like a 45 deg?DIN flare. I would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should be used when the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering if the flare on the brake and clutch was modified at some time. It makes sense to connect the double flare end to a fitting with and inverted flare bottom but not to an angled bottom.?Am I missing something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does anyone know where the bubble flare should be used??Thanks... Harold_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 08:02:24 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 10:02:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
In-Reply-To: <919581248.6119571.1595770926809@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LJiV+=5+hH01gdhva0Syd==Ukt+g0_TvzGrSgL=YS5R6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <919581248.6119571.1595770926809@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+hg4M0H5WL0rCa8bF_Tp+mQmLwYa1Cujua3hNRDO21pA@mail.gmail.com>

[image: image.jpeg]


On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Could someone please provide a copy of that bulletin or a link to it on
> line?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, Jul 26, 2020 6:19 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
>
> A bulletin was published early during production that confirmed that
> "double" flares and "bubble " flares could be used interchangeably.
>
> M
>
> On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 12:32 a.m. , <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>
> Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.
> -----------------------------------------
> attached
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
>
> When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare end
> where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but the
> internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN flare. I
> would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should be used when
> the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering if the flare on the
> brake and clutch was modified at some time. It makes sense to connect the
> double flare end to a fitting with and inverted flare bottom but not to an
> angled bottom.
>
> Am I missing something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does
> anyone know where the bubble flare should be used?
>
> Thanks... Harold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 26 08:56:29 2020
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 14:56:29 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Lands End Healey Tie
Message-ID: <20200726.105629.24423.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com>

In packing for our upcoming ing move I found a never used Lands End silk Healey tie. If you have an interest please contact me off the list. Stay safe and well. Thanks. Cheers, Doug
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 26 09:16:48 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 11:16:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8
Message-ID: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn blows.  Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that entails?Thankstom
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul 26 10:11:02 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 09:11:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+hg4M0H5WL0rCa8bF_Tp+mQmLwYa1Cujua3hNRDO21pA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e7b20decb092b1952530b7b1aedaa075775e566a@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LJiV+=5+hH01gdhva0Syd==Ukt+g0_TvzGrSgL=YS5R6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <919581248.6119571.1595770926809@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7L+hg4M0H5WL0rCa8bF_Tp+mQmLwYa1Cujua3hNRDO21pA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6149CD97847A409682B37B324A24D26A@AllInOne>

My car was manufactured in November 1960 shortly after this service bulletin
was released and it has a mixture of bubble-flares and double-flares for
figure 2. All of the piping looked to be original which was confusing. I
suppose I should have realized BMC liked to mix up fasteners type. At least
all of the threads are the same.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2020 7:02 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare


image.jpeg



On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Could someone please provide a copy of that bulletin or a link to it on
line? 
Gary Hodson



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Jul 26, 2020 6:19 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare


A bulletin was published early during production that confirmed that
"double" flares and "bubble " flares could be used interchangeably.  

M

On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 12:32 a.m. , <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:



Girling had their own flare as seen here on the chart.

-----------------------------------------
attached

-----------------------------------------
From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 25 2020 8:27:01PM
Subject: [Healeys] Double Flare versus Bubble Flare


When I took my old brake lines off I notice they had a double flare end
where they connected to the brake and clutch master cylinders but the
internals of the master cylinder fitting looks like a 45 deg DIN flare. I
would have thought a male swivel nut with bubble flare should be used when
the female fitting has an angled bottom. I am wondering if the flare on the
brake and clutch was modified at some time. It makes sense to connect the
double flare end to a fitting with and inverted flare bottom but not to an
angled bottom.
 
Am I missing something? I have an AH3000 built in November 1960. Does anyone
know where the bubble flare should be used?
 
Thanks... Harold

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 11:30:12 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 10:30:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8
In-Reply-To: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>

The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check the 
connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then, yeah, you 
have something exposed to ground somewhere.

Bob

On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn blows.? 
> Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my guess---a bare 
> wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????? Any ideas before I pull 
> these wires out of the column with all that entails?
>
> Thanks
> tom
>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 13:43:30 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8
In-Reply-To: <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>

Certainly agree with Bob.
I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is
inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged.
The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator
tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,  but it takes
careful work and some degree of patience.

M


On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check the
> connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then, yeah, you
> have something exposed to ground somewhere.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>
> When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn blows.  Not
> caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my guess---a bare wire
> somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any ideas before I pull these
> wires out of the column with all that entails?
>
> Thanks
> tom
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 14:05:50 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 16:05:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Girling UK
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1595793963.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Does anyone have current contact information, prefer email or link,  for technical questions for Girling UK?  Their web site has contact info for a part price and availability  but not technical issues, at least not that I can find.  Appreciate any help on this.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 26 14:22:35 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 20:22:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Girling UK
In-Reply-To: <20200726200641.8C7E4A0F25@autox.team.net>
References: <20200726200641.8C7E4A0F25@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <59574570.7400935.1595794955251@mail.yahoo.com>

 Maybe just call them when they open tomorrow.Mike M

    On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 1:06:42 PM PDT, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 <!--#yiv6966121829 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6966121829 #yiv6966121829 p.yiv6966121829MsoNormal, #yiv6966121829 li.yiv6966121829MsoNormal, #yiv6966121829 div.yiv6966121829MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv6966121829 a:link, #yiv6966121829 span.yiv6966121829MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6966121829 .yiv6966121829MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv6966121829 div.yiv6966121829WordSection1 {}-->
Listers

Does anyone have current contact information, prefer email or link, ?for technical questions for Girling UK?? Their web site has contact info for a part price and availability ?but not technical issues, at least not that I can find.? Appreciate any help on this.

Perry

 ?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?
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From Tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 26 16:46:37 2020
From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 18:46:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.  The insides of the trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.  OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.  quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?  should that piece be centered between the two triggers?  Assume so.  That's where I put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.Great way to spend pandemic time:):)Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8

Certainly agree with Bob.I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged. The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,  but it takes careful work and some degree of patience. 
M

On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

 The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check
 the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then,
 yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere.


 Bob

On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn
 blows.  Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my
 guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any
 ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that
 entails?
Thankstom



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Suggested annual donation  $12.75


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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 17:15:50 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 19:15:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Reed Morrow
Message-ID: <mailman.27.1595805362.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Any of the US west coast folks know a former Healey owner Reed Morrow? 
Trying to contact him. 
Thanks
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 26 20:04:25 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 02:04:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>

 Tom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm


Scroll down to trafficator.? Plenty of info there.
    On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 #yiv9435631914 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.? The insides of the trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.? OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.??
quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?? should that piece be centered between the two triggers?? Assume so.? That's where I put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.
Great way to spend pandemic time:):)
Tom


----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8

Certainly agree with Bob.I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged.?The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,? but it takes careful work and some degree of patience.?
M

On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


 The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check
 the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then,
 yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere.


 Bob

On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:

When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn
 blows.? Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my
 guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????? Any
 ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that
 entails?
Thankstom




_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation? $12.75


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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 26 20:08:47 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:08:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

thanks Mike---I have been using that and it is OUTSTANDING.  Thanks for the feedback.  Still a little fuzzy on how to orient the cancel part.  I did find a bare spot on one wire and covered it.  We will see.Thankstom
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, Tom Felts <Tomfelts at windstream.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:04:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update


Tom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm


Scroll down to trafficator.  Plenty of info there.

 On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.  The insides of the trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.  OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.  quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?  should that piece be centered between the two triggers?  Assume so.  That's where I put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.Great way to spend pandemic time:):)Tom----- Original Message -----From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>Cc: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8Certainly agree with Bob.I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged. The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,  but it takes careful work and some degree of patience. MOn Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then, yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere. BobOn 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn blows.  Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that entails?Thankstom_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 26 20:25:09 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 02:25:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
 <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>

 Maybe Curt will chime in here.? He's the expert.M

    On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 7:08:50 PM PDT, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:  
 
 #yiv8365062376 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}thanks Mike---I have been using that and it is OUTSTANDING.? Thanks for the feedback.? Still a little fuzzy on how to orient the cancel part.? I did find a bare spot on one wire and covered it.? We will see.
Thankstom
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, Tom Felts <Tomfelts at windstream.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:04:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update


Tom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm


Scroll down to trafficator.? Plenty of info there.

 On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.? The insides of the trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.? OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.??
quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?? should that piece be centered between the two triggers?? Assume so.? That's where I put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.
Great way to spend pandemic time:):)
Tom


----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8

Certainly agree with Bob.I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged.?The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,? but it takes careful work and some degree of patience.?
M

On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


 The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check
 the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then,
 yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere.


 Bob

On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:

When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn
 blows.? Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my
 guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????? Any
 ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that
 entails?
Thankstom




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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation? $12.75


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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 23:30:12 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:30:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
 <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTs4KNUkNx3BStpWtNWkaMPi+hMR3fjDkh3v+LV-YAD0A@mail.gmail.com>

Most likely a new wiring harness will solve the problem, an inexpensive
investment in money, if not in time to swap it out.

Curt

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 7:26 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Maybe Curt will chime in here.  He's the expert.
> M
>
> On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 7:08:50 PM PDT, Tom Felts <
> tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
>
> thanks Mike---I have been using that and it is OUTSTANDING.  Thanks for
> the feedback.  Still a little fuzzy on how to orient the cancel part.  I
> did find a bare spot on one wire and covered it.  We will see.
>
> Thanks
> tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, Tom Felts <
> Tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:04:25 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
>
>
> Tom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm
>
>
>
> Scroll down to trafficator.  Plenty of info there.
>
> On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of
> the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason
> there for the horn to blow by itself.  The insides of the trafficator
> needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.
> OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the
> wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the
> tube and inspect it.
>
> quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the
> metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?  should that piece be
> centered between the two triggers?  Assume so.  That's where I put it, but
> I'm not getting canceling now.
>
> Great way to spend pandemic time:):)
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8
>
> Certainly agree with Bob.
> I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is
> inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged.
> The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator
> tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,  but it takes
> careful work and some degree of patience.
>
> M
>
>
> On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check
> the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then,
> yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere.
>
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>
> When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn
> blows.  Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my
> guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any
> ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that
> entails?
>
> Thanks
> tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>
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From ericmetzner at gmx.de  Mon Jul 27 01:31:44 2020
From: ericmetzner at gmx.de (Eric Metzner)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 09:31:44 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
Message-ID: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>

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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 05:12:37 2020
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 07:12:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD slow to\no engage  problem update(rant?)
Message-ID: <27D19F86-34E5-4DB4-BFF9-81FCA530C853@hxcore.ol>

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jul 27 05:20:21 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 07:20:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTs4KNUkNx3BStpWtNWkaMPi+hMR3fjDkh3v+LV-YAD0A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
 <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTs4KNUkNx3BStpWtNWkaMPi+hMR3fjDkh3v+LV-YAD0A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <708701454.215902.1595848821517.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

thanks---It may come to that--------still not quite clear on the orientation of the cancelling lip---assume it is 180 to the top switch.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>, Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 01:30:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update

Most likely a new wiring harness will solve the problem, an inexpensive investment in money, if not in time to swap it out.
Curt
On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 7:26 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Maybe Curt will chime in here.  He's the expert.M


 On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 7:08:50 PM PDT, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:


thanks Mike---I have been using that and it is OUTSTANDING.  Thanks for the feedback.  Still a little fuzzy on how to orient the cancel part.  I did find a bare spot on one wire and covered it.  We will see.Thankstom----- Original Message -----From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, Tom Felts <Tomfelts at windstream.net>Cc: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:04:25 -0400 (EDT)Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--updateTom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htmScroll down to trafficator.  Plenty of info there. On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.  The insides of the trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts were filthy.  OK--------put it all back together and still the horn blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.  quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?  should that piece be centered between the two triggers?  Assume so.  That's where I put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.Great way to spend pandemic time:):)Tom----- Original Message -----From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>Cc: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8Certainly agree with Bob.I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is damaged. The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel,  but it takes careful work and some degree of patience. MOn Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then, yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere. BobOn 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn blows.  Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????  Any ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that entails?Thankstom_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net_______________________________________________

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 27 07:13:08 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 09:13:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <708701454.215902.1595848821517.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
 <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTs4KNUkNx3BStpWtNWkaMPi+hMR3fjDkh3v+LV-YAD0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <708701454.215902.1595848821517.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <264478ce-7be4-b092-4ae4-3699c2fb72f9@earthlink.net>

Tom,

Yes, the canceling arm is at the bottom of the steering wheel hub.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/27/20 7:20 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> thanks---It may come to that--------still not quite clear on the 
> orientation of the cancelling lip---assume it is 180 to the top switch.
> 
> tom
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Cc: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>, Healey List 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 01:30:12 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
> 
> Most likely a new wiring harness will solve the problem, an inexpensive 
> investment in money, if not?in time to?swap it out.
> 
> Curt
> 
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 7:26 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Maybe Curt will chime in here.? He's the expert.
>     M
> 
> 
>     On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 7:08:50 PM PDT, Tom Felts
>     <tomfelts at windstream.net <mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
>     thanks Mike---I have been using that and it is OUTSTANDING.? Thanks
>     for the feedback.? Still a little fuzzy on how to orient the cancel
>     part.? I did find a bare spot on one wire and covered it.? We will see.
> 
>     Thanks
>     tom
> 
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net
>     <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>>
>     To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
>     <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>, Tom Felts
>     <Tomfelts at windstream.net <mailto:Tomfelts at windstream.net>>
>     Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 22:04:25 -0400 (EDT)
>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
> 
> 
>     Tom go to http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm
> 
> 
> 
>     Scroll down to trafficator.? Plenty of info there.
> 
>     On Sunday, July 26, 2020, 3:47:31 PM PDT, Tom Felts via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Thanks for all the feedback-----so far I have removed the business
>     end of the trafficator (a real pain to get back together) and found
>     no reason there for the horn to blow by itself.? The insides of the
>     trafficator needed a good cleaning anyway, the signal light contacts
>     were filthy.? OK--------put it all back together and still the horn
>     blows when I push the wheel forward-------so----guess the next move
>     is to pull it all out of the tube and inspect it.
> 
>     quick question----what is the position of the cancelling piece on
>     the metal ring in relation to the two "triggers"?? should that piece
>     be centered between the two triggers?? Assume so.? That's where I
>     put it, but I'm not getting canceling now.
> 
>     Great way to spend pandemic time:):)
> 
>     Tom
> 
> 
> 
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>     Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Sun, 26 Jul 2020 15:43:30 -0400 (EDT)
>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8
> 
>     Certainly agree with Bob.
>     I would think that the stator harness (inside the stator tube which
>     is inside the steering shaft which is inside the steering column) is
>     damaged.
>     The stator harness can be changed without actually removing the
>     stator tube, easier on your car with the adjustable steering wheel, 
>     but it takes careful work and some degree of patience.
> 
>     M
> 
> 
>     On Sun., Jul. 26, 2020, 1:30 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
> 
> 
>         The horn button grounds the circuit IIRC (the lead is hot). Check
>         the connectors out of the steering box, but if it's not that then,
>         yeah, you have something exposed to ground somewhere.
> 
> 
>         Bob
> 
>         On 7/26/2020 8:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> 
>             When I move the steering wheel in toward the dash, the horn
>             blows.? Not caused by the horn button--I have it removed----my
>             guess---a bare wire somewhere in the column----or-----?????? Any
>             ideas before I pull these wires out of the column with all that
>             entails?
> 
>             Thanks
>             tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
>         _______________________________________________
> 
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> 
>         Archive:
>         http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>http://autox.team.net/archive
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> 
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> 
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> 
>     Archive:
>     http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> 

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 07:45:39 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 06:45:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Horn blowing--BJ8--update
In-Reply-To: <264478ce-7be4-b092-4ae4-3699c2fb72f9@earthlink.net>
References: <349059818.79446227.1595776608769.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <8cf6b6c2-1ab8-c405-f27f-74ab9026025e@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLa--1mRLoLj4c63XBA0jZVYO+5R2pKkY3x69WtkZeNMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <671551780.79919656.1595803597781.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <1010339058.7515664.1595815465273@mail.yahoo.com>
 <826459249.80099679.1595815727223.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <194058614.7501260.1595816709473@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTs4KNUkNx3BStpWtNWkaMPi+hMR3fjDkh3v+LV-YAD0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <708701454.215902.1595848821517.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <264478ce-7be4-b092-4ae4-3699c2fb72f9@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSGGcz1h5S=3KhcMm-=wLc088j35SLqX=vvJxUbO+ZAwA@mail.gmail.com>

Gentlemen,

The cam on the striker ring or non-adjustable units or the pressed steel
cam on the short adjustable stator tube is on the bottom.  This is so when
the steering wheel is initially turned, it almost immediately rides up past
one of the canceling pawls at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions.  This is why
these two canceling pawls need to be installed and oriented with the
"curved" side facing inboard.  Then, when the steering wheel moves back
again, the cam then hits the "straight" side of the canceling pawl
resetting the lever.

In 32 years of restoring these units, I've seen these pawls
installed backwards too many times to mention. This will inevitably result
in the destruction of the Bakelite electrical base, the brittle and hard to
replace heart of the switch!

Cheers,

Curt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:14 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Yes, the canceling arm is at the bottom of the steering wheel hub.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 08:59:00 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 07:59:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
Message-ID: <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>

Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats 
it's amazing that it's held up so well.

On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
> Hi gents,
> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, 
> built?january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
> Some nice pictures can be found on: 
> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
> Cheers
> Eric
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 09:12:07 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 11:12:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>

Eric--

My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
the boot.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>
> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>
> Hi gents,
> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>
> Some nice pictures can be found on:
> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>
> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>
> Cheers
> Eric
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 09:28:47 2020
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 11:28:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>

Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of old stock before installing new badge. 
Ken
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Eric--
> 
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>> 
>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>> Hi gents,
>>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>>  
>>> Some nice pictures can be found on: https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>>  
>>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>>  
>>> Cheers 
>>> Eric
>>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
> 
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 11:16:12 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 10:16:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <908CC28A-C047-4AF2-8915-7BC9AB4D2DFE@aol.com>
References: <CAJKrNeQW_M09RMa0KERK1cDjzftP8qiP6XeGjRazf-j+jnzsrw@mail.gmail.com>
 <908CC28A-C047-4AF2-8915-7BC9AB4D2DFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeS=K26F5LiiSahJDd_AVf7PuLqmkxZwvnxWhyOAQR2i2w@mail.gmail.com>

Ken,

Of course I am... If the A of E badges were still being used in mid Jan.
1955, your car built in Aug. '54 would absolutely have had this badge.

Regarding the reflector pods...

As per my "Concours Chart of Changes" article that I recently posted... *The
reflector pods were first used on **body no. 6128 (c221310) Sep ?54* - Rear
reflectors on pods fitted (NY Auto Show Car).

Early reflector pods were sand cast brass, car 6182 had brass pods and at
least one car as late as body no. 7197 Jan. ?55.  However, pot metal pods
have been found on cars as early as 6973. Further documentation is needed.

My reflector pods were sand cast brass, while later ones were pot metal,
but there is NO definitive changeover.

Also, early cars had orange reflectors while later ones had red ones.  My
car had orange ones as referenced by the attached photo of my restored
originals.  I sourced two NOS pairs for my restoration, a red and an orange
pair, and used the orange ones.

Some original low mile cars, like body no. 7970 built on Feb, 18, '55
(about 10K orig. miles) had both a red and an orange reflector.  No telling
if this was done at the factory, or if it came with two orange ones and one
was lost and replaced or two red ones and one was sunsequnty replaced.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 9:56 AM Ken Fleming <ahmg at aol.com> wrote:

> Curt,
>


> My car is 8/54 just to confirm. Are you confirming that it should wear the
> Austin of England badg?. Was I correct that the pods were added in Aug.
> Thanks for clarifying
>


> Ken
>
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 13:11:24 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 20:11:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>

Ken

Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
some time later.

Best regards

On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
> old stock before installing new badge.
> Ken
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
> Eric--
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
>> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>
>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>
>> Hi gents,
>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
>> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>
>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>
>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>
>> Cheers
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 14:14:43 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 16:14:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>

And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
become "Austin Healey"?

I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
name but that really makes little sense.

Does anyone *really* know the reason?

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ken
>
> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
> the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
> some time later.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
>> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
>> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
>> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
>> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
>> old stock before installing new badge.
>> Ken
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Eric--
>>
>> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge
>> on the boot.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
>>> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>>
>>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi gents,
>>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
>>> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>>
>>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>>
>>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 14:23:24 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 13:23:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>

Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
overnight.

One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
stand on its own...

One man's opinion.

Curt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
> become "Austin Healey"?
>
> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
> name but that really makes little sense.
>
> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Ken
>>
>> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
>> the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
>> some time later.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or
>>> restore.
>>> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
>>> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
>>> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
>>> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
>>> old stock before installing new badge.
>>> Ken
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?
>>> Eric--
>>>
>>> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge
>>> on the boot.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the
>>>> seats it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>>>
>>>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi gents,
>>>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor,
>>>> built january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>>>
>>>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>>>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>>>
>>>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Eric
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Best wishes
>>
>> John Harper
>>
>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 14:40:41 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 16:40:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>

Curt--

I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and name,
changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was some
time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.

In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal
name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's
mistake.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
> and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
> overnight.
>
> One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
> England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
> I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
> was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
> the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
> the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
> stand on its own...
>
> One man's opinion.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
>> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
>> become "Austin Healey"?
>>
>> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
>> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
>> name but that really makes little sense.
>>
>> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars
>>> like the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased
>>> out some time later.
>>>
>>> Best regards
>>>
>>> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or
>>>> restore.
>>>> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
>>>> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
>>>> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
>>>> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
>>>> old stock before installing new badge.
>>>> Ken
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?
>>>> Eric--
>>>>
>>>> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge
>>>> on the boot.
>>>>
>>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the
>>>>> seats it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>>>>
>>>>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi gents,
>>>>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor,
>>>>> built january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>>>>
>>>>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>>>>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>>>>
>>>>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers
>>>>> Eric
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>>
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>>
>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Best wishes
>>>
>>> John Harper
>>>
>>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Mon Jul 27 14:47:31 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 16:47:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.28.1595882860.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

So does mine, built November ?54.
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA
 
From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

Eric--

My car is #222333 built?12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 14:54:03 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 16:54:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] was "interesting BN1 "survivor" now hyphen or no
 hyphen
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1595883248.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Been about 6 years or so since the last go around on the ?hyphen? question. Maybe not that long ago as I may have missed it. No definitive answer then and doubt there is one now.
There was a perhaps slightly tongue in cheek answer back in 2014 which I still find a bit humorous?but then I?m an old man looking for a hyphen in all the wrong places. Thanks Johnny Lee for the partial use of your lyrics.

>From the forum:
Re: Austin-Healey to Austin Healey
.
?Like with so many other items, production went on even with temporary outages of inconsequential parts. For example, occasionally the union, Punctuation Fabricators & Parentheses Benders International, would go on strike and BMC reserves would dry up, but they kept sending cars down the line, even without the hyphen.

So far the parts suppliers have neglected to make an acceptable reproduction that will fit without an extraordinary degree of fiddling, and so good used originals remain in demand.?

Thanks for that one Reid
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 4:15 PM
To: John Harper
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a definitive?answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
become "Austin Healey"???

I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company name but that really makes little sense.

Does anyone really know the reason?

Best--Michael Oritt
?

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
Ken

Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out some time later.

Best regards

On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
My car ?160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure where the change of badge occurred but ?believe it was end of August . Also rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of old stock before installing new badge.?
Ken
Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
?
Eric--

My car is #222333 built?12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats it's amazing that it's held up so well.
On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
Hi gents,
perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built?january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
?
Some nice pictures can be found on:?https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
?
Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
?
Cheers?
Eric


_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 27 16:11:37 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 22:11:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>

 I think I can find a project car for less that $103,000.Mike MacLean

    On Monday, July 27, 2020, 1:50:09 PM PDT, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net> wrote:  
 
 #yiv2370278432 #yiv2370278432 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2370278432 #yiv2370278432 p.yiv2370278432MsoNormal, #yiv2370278432 li.yiv2370278432MsoNormal, #yiv2370278432 div.yiv2370278432MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2370278432 a:link, #yiv2370278432 span.yiv2370278432MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2370278432 .yiv2370278432MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv2370278432 div.yiv2370278432WordSection1 {}#yiv2370278432 
So does mine, built November ?54.

Sarah Carr

BN1 in PA

 

From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

 ?

Eric--

 ?

My car is #222333 built?12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.

 ?

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Jul 27 16:36:12 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 08:36:12 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

According to Clausager, the ?Austin of England? badge was changed to the ?Austin-Healey? badge in August 1954, but he does not supply a chassis or body number. The reflector pods were introduced at the same time.

 

According to Quinn (for what?s that worth) the Austin-Healey badging was changed to ?Austin Healey? during the change from the BT7 Mk2 Roadster to the BJ7. I think I have looked at a zillion cars (impossible of course) and noted the hyphen with the roadsters and not with the convertibles.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, 28 July 2020 6:41 AM
To: Curtis Arndt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

 

Curt--

 

I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and name, changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was some time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.  

 

In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's mistake. 

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge overnight.

 

One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all, I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car" was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then, the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could stand on its own... 

 

One man's opinion.

 

Curt

 

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"

become "Austin Healey"?  

 

I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company name but that really makes little sense.

 

Does anyone really know the reason?

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

 

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:

Ken

 

Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out some time later.

 

Best regards

 

On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.

My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of old stock before installing new badge. 
Ken

Sent from my iPhone





On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

?

Eric--

 

My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats it's amazing that it's held up so well.

On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:

Hi gents,

perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.

 

Some nice pictures can be found on: https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html

 

Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid

 

Cheers 
Eric

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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-- 

Best wishes

 

John Harper

 

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 17:03:35 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 19:03:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
 <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZepEJY2r+QEAbs3OWXxQTQ3UvX5gVyu94LWABDYhU7ZqQ@mail.gmail.com>

I was thinking the same thing, Mike, when Bonham's sold a restored factory
M for $140k:   https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25222/lot/321/

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:12 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I think I can find a project car for less that $103,000.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020, 1:50:09 PM PDT, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> So does mine, built November ?54.
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> *From: *Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
> *To: *Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>
>
>
> Eric--
>
>
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 18:40:16 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 20:40:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
 <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5ZZa296gNMcgjEa_qzVR5BHfNF4iM=sgVN7CHSaJeaxQ@mail.gmail.com>

Many stories and takes on exactly when it changed, but how is it possible
that no one knows why?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:36 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> According to Clausager, the ?Austin of England? badge was changed to the
> ?Austin-Healey? badge in August 1954, but he does not supply a chassis or
> body number. The reflector pods were introduced at the same time.
>
>
>
> According to Quinn (for what?s that worth) the Austin-Healey badging was
> changed to ?Austin Healey? during the change from the BT7 Mk2 Roadster to
> the BJ7. I think I have looked at a zillion cars (impossible of course) and
> noted the hyphen with the roadsters and not with the convertibles.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Oritt
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 28 July 2020 6:41 AM
> *To:* Curtis Arndt
> *Cc:* Austin Healey
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>
>
>
> Curt--
>
>
>
> I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and name,
> changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was some
> time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.
>
>
>
> In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal
> name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's
> mistake.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
> and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
> overnight.
>
>
>
> One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
> England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
> I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
> was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
> the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
> the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
> stand on its own...
>
>
>
> One man's opinion.
>
>
>
> Curt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
>
> become "Austin Healey"?
>
>
>
> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
> name but that really makes little sense.
>
>
>
> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
> the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
> some time later.
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
>
> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
> old stock before installing new badge.
> Ken
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> Eric--
>
>
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>
> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>
> Hi gents,
>
> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>
>
>
> Some nice pictures can be found on:
> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>
>
>
> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>
>
>
> Cheers
> Eric
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Best wishes
>
>
>
> John Harper
>
>
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_3629614575446876990_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 18:51:07 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 20:51:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5ZZa296gNMcgjEa_qzVR5BHfNF4iM=sgVN7CHSaJeaxQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
 <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAPTa0B5ZZa296gNMcgjEa_qzVR5BHfNF4iM=sgVN7CHSaJeaxQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7nVtjXjptUenhW9rNUWf3Mqd=SiYKLnBaYqY9=f9v8ng@mail.gmail.com>

I have a difficult time taking *"Huh?"* for an answer and did a google
search of "Austin-Healey hyphenated".I got one hit on AHX--a post from the
late Ed Kaler:

"BEING a BJ-7 Owner (and curious), I have put together a "survey" for all !!

Results will come to me and I will do a data base of the results and publish
for all. I just tested it and it works great and reports as follows:
<quote>
Your BlueMail form has been completed, following are the results:
Field Value
Name Ed Kaler
Model BJ-7
Year 1963
Chassis 22707
State IL
Country USA
mailfrom (email redacted)
subject Hyphen Survey
</quote>

As per Gary's suggestion I will add fields for:
Body Number:
Build Date:

What say you gents?? Gimme an hour or so before going to:

justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html

Unless someone is into channeling Ed it appears that whatever he learned
(if anything) went to the grave with him....

Best--Michael Oritt




On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:40 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Many stories and takes on exactly when it changed, but how is it possible
> that no one knows why?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:36 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>> Hello
>>
>>
>>
>> According to Clausager, the ?Austin of England? badge was changed to the
>> ?Austin-Healey? badge in August 1954, but he does not supply a chassis or
>> body number. The reflector pods were introduced at the same time.
>>
>>
>>
>> According to Quinn (for what?s that worth) the Austin-Healey badging was
>> changed to ?Austin Healey? during the change from the BT7 Mk2 Roadster to
>> the BJ7. I think I have looked at a zillion cars (impossible of course) and
>> noted the hyphen with the roadsters and not with the convertibles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
>> Oritt
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, 28 July 2020 6:41 AM
>> *To:* Curtis Arndt
>> *Cc:* Austin Healey
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>>
>>
>>
>> Curt--
>>
>>
>>
>> I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and name,
>> changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was some
>> time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.
>>
>>
>>
>> In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal
>> name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's
>> mistake.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
>> and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
>> overnight.
>>
>>
>>
>> One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
>> England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
>> I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
>> was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
>> the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
>> the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
>> stand on its own...
>>
>>
>>
>> One man's opinion.
>>
>>
>>
>> Curt
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
>> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
>>
>> become "Austin Healey"?
>>
>>
>>
>> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
>> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
>> name but that really makes little sense.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Ken
>>
>>
>>
>> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
>> the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
>> some time later.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
>>
>> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
>> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
>> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
>> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
>> old stock before installing new badge.
>> Ken
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>>
>> Eric--
>>
>>
>>
>> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge
>> on the boot.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
>> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>
>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>
>> Hi gents,
>>
>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
>> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>> Eric
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Best wishes
>>
>>
>>
>> John Harper
>>
>>
>>
>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>> <#m_-5511750742328404944_m_3629614575446876990_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 19:44:15 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 18:44:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site
Message-ID: <b197166b-12da-6ea1-7ac5-72ba05ab31ff@comcast.net>

Stumbled across this one today:

https://ateupwithmotor.com/model-histories/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 19:45:26 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:45:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7nVtjXjptUenhW9rNUWf3Mqd=SiYKLnBaYqY9=f9v8ng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
 <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAPTa0B5ZZa296gNMcgjEa_qzVR5BHfNF4iM=sgVN7CHSaJeaxQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7nVtjXjptUenhW9rNUWf3Mqd=SiYKLnBaYqY9=f9v8ng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcxSdjZ-iEKsFyJ4+itt7z4gJZc9KbL=GzewzyG2LY2HQ@mail.gmail.com>

Not exactly channeling Ed (who could be quite a nice guy under his
curmudgeon exterior) but I remember participating in his survey.  If you
search "hyphen" in the list archives at the bottom of the messages, there
are a number of postings about the hyphen controversy. There were BJ7s that
had the hyphen, some did not.  I had to go out to the garage and check and
my BJ7 with its original badge does have the hyphen.  This advertisement
appears to be a BJ7 and note the hyphen is gone from "Austin Healey"
Perhaps the internal BMC decision to drop the hyphen was made at the
beginning of BJ7 production, but they just used up all the old MK II badges
with the hyphen until they ordered up new ones without the hyphen.  Why the
decision was made, who knows?
[image: 342608f7f7872131509d31c3f050e5ca--british-advertising.jpg]

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:52 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have a difficult time taking *"Huh?"* for an answer and did a google
> search of "Austin-Healey hyphenated".I got one hit on AHX--a post from the
> late Ed Kaler:
>
> "BEING a BJ-7 Owner (and curious), I have put together a "survey" for all
> !!
>
> Results will come to me and I will do a data base of the results and
> publish
> for all. I just tested it and it works great and reports as follows:
> <quote>
> Your BlueMail form has been completed, following are the results:
> Field Value
> Name Ed Kaler
> Model BJ-7
> Year 1963
> Chassis 22707
> State IL
> Country USA
> mailfrom (email redacted)
> subject Hyphen Survey
> </quote>
>
> As per Gary's suggestion I will add fields for:
> Body Number:
> Build Date:
>
> What say you gents?? Gimme an hour or so before going to:
>
> justbrits.com/survey/hyphen.html
>
> Unless someone is into channeling Ed it appears that whatever he learned
> (if anything) went to the grave with him....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:40 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Many stories and takes on exactly when it changed, but how is it possible
>> that no one knows why?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:36 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
>> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> According to Clausager, the ?Austin of England? badge was changed to the
>>> ?Austin-Healey? badge in August 1954, but he does not supply a chassis or
>>> body number. The reflector pods were introduced at the same time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> According to Quinn (for what?s that worth) the Austin-Healey badging was
>>> changed to ?Austin Healey? during the change from the BT7 Mk2 Roadster to
>>> the BJ7. I think I have looked at a zillion cars (impossible of course) and
>>> noted the hyphen with the roadsters and not with the convertibles.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hoo Roo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
>>> Oritt
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, 28 July 2020 6:41 AM
>>> *To:* Curtis Arndt
>>> *Cc:* Austin Healey
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Curt--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and
>>> name, changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was
>>> some time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal
>>> name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's
>>> mistake.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
>>> and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
>>> overnight.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
>>> England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
>>> I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
>>> was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
>>> the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
>>> the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
>>> stand on its own...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> One man's opinion.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Curt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
>>> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
>>>
>>> become "Austin Healey"?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
>>> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
>>> name but that really makes little sense.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ken
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars
>>> like the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased
>>> out some time later.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best regards
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or
>>> restore.
>>>
>>> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
>>> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
>>> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
>>> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
>>> old stock before installing new badge.
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?
>>>
>>> Eric--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge
>>> on the boot.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
>>> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>>
>>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi gents,
>>>
>>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
>>> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Best wishes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John Harper
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
>>> www.avast.com
>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>> <#m_-3196548963051693637_m_-5511750742328404944_m_3629614575446876990_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 19:53:54 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 18:53:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
 <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <733319ff-37a3-09f6-1f48-8a5597d0b94c@comcast.net>

I'd drive/keep that car just the way it is. The driveline has been 
overhauled, and there doesn't appear to be any significant rust. Maybe 
replace rubber parts.

An Austin-Healey 'Rat Rod.'


On 7/27/2020 3:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I think I can find a project car for less that $103,000.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020, 1:50:09 PM PDT, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net> 
> wrote:
>
>
> So does mine, built November ?54.
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> *From: *Michael Oritt <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
> *To: *Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>
> Eric--
>
> My car is #222333 built?12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" 
> badge on the boot.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 27 22:24:11 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:24:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site
In-Reply-To: <b197166b-12da-6ea1-7ac5-72ba05ab31ff@comcast.net>
References: <b197166b-12da-6ea1-7ac5-72ba05ab31ff@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <21d501d66496$f1e384a0$d5aa8de0$@roadrunner.com>

As I was reading this, I recognized the red 100 and the black BN7 next to it
as cars from the Austin-Healey Association of Southern California.  Then,
more cars from the AHASC.  Imagine my surprise to see, as I continued
further, my red BN7 in the article.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 6:44 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site

Stumbled across this one today:

https://ateupwithmotor.com/model-histories/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com



From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 22:52:18 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 21:52:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site
In-Reply-To: <21d501d66496$f1e384a0$d5aa8de0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <b197166b-12da-6ea1-7ac5-72ba05ab31ff@comcast.net>
 <21d501d66496$f1e384a0$d5aa8de0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <5f034d54-ad34-d318-8bf6-d9f2b3cab175@comcast.net>

They mentioned Steven Kingsbury as well. Seems to be a pretty factual 
accounting (though I'm surprised they didn't go into the Nash-Healey a 
bit more).

On 7/27/2020 9:24 PM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> As I was reading this, I recognized the red 100 and the black BN7 next to it
> as cars from the Austin-Healey Association of Southern California.  Then,
> more cars from the AHASC.  Imagine my surprise to see, as I continued
> further, my red BN7 in the article.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 6:44 PM
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site
>
> Stumbled across this one today:
>
> https://ateupwithmotor.com/model-histories/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/
>


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Jul 28 03:26:57 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 10:26:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Badge.         RE:  interesting BN1 "survivor"
Message-ID: <000001d664c1$3fde3040$bf9a90c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

 

 

Regarding this 100, which seems like quite a find, I was reminded that I have an ?Austin of England? badge lying around in my one of my heaps of ?useful stuff?. It?s like the ?Austin-Healey? badge on the boot lid of my 3000 but a bit bigger. 6?.

It has its 3 studs on the back and what appears to be a part number:4B 3494. And various other stampings.

So, if anyone wants it, they can have it. Just pay P&P. First come, first served.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Eric Metzner
Sent: 27 July 2020 08:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

 

Hi gents,

perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.

 

Some nice pictures can be found on: https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html

 

Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid

 

Cheers 
Eric

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Tue Jul 28 05:31:06 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 12:31:06 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAL1OyxebChDJi4GJBDO_DMwve_je69ddyjKG8k8O9XWpMAyVuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7ndnh+RWXhTf1uWjeNFS8LjE18xk7KLMVc5E9CAEfDkA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQS8WQH=OzT0nUxoQ71V6yptUmMT_fvUxEty1pu8XQnjg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5aEjqVDyUxx2YQtMksiUYXveyvYvFWabaH_o48GAgnbw@mail.gmail.com>
 <008501d66466$54f989d0$feec9d70$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxc9sBtyCEaXKBtOkqHwMrg9kxS=WS86vjqkBHo6gurZ2A@mail.gmail.com>

Having two rear-facing red reflectors became law around August 1954. All
cars and other vehicles registered in the UK had to have them from then on
before sale. Older vehicles had to have these retro fitted. I added them to
a 1933 Vauxhaul Cadet, a 1934 Terraplane and an early A70 Hereford.

I heard that all A-H 100s fitted after the one week Longbridge full
closedown should have them. In those days everybody had to take their
holiday at the same time.

Some apparently slipped through the net. 100s built prior to August 1954
also had to have reflectors fitted. I assume that there were pods made by
other suppliers which might explain the brass ones. Some retro fitted
reflectors were very badly done which spoilt the clean body lines.

Today reflectors are still part of the British MOT tests but I have seen
cars passed with no reflectors at all. I assume that MOT inspectors just
assume that they are fitted.

Best regards

On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 23:36, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> According to Clausager, the ?Austin of England? badge was changed to the
> ?Austin-Healey? badge in August 1954, but he does not supply a chassis or
> body number. The reflector pods were introduced at the same time.
>
>
>
> According to Quinn (for what?s that worth) the Austin-Healey badging was
> changed to ?Austin Healey? during the change from the BT7 Mk2 Roadster to
> the BJ7. I think I have looked at a zillion cars (impossible of course) and
> noted the hyphen with the roadsters and not with the convertibles.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Oritt
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 28 July 2020 6:41 AM
> *To:* Curtis Arndt
> *Cc:* Austin Healey
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>
>
>
> Curt--
>
>
>
> I was referring to the dropping of the hyphen when the badging, and name,
> changed from "Austin-Healey" to "Austin Healey".  I believe this was some
> time around the release of BN/BT 7's but may be wrong on that.
>
>
>
> In any case changing a car's badging/logo, much less the brand's formal
> name is, to my mind, much too big a deal to lay at the feet of a supplier's
> mistake.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 4:23 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Healey became Austin Healey at the 1952 Earls court Motor show after DMH
> and Leonard Lord made a deal, and Roger Menadue made a new bonnet badge
> overnight.
>
>
>
> One can assume that since Austin already had a ready supply of Austin of
> England badges, that these were just put on the boot lid since after all,
> I'm certain Leonard Lord wanted everyone to know that while this "new car"
> was an Austin Healey, it was also an Austin of England car.  Exactly why
> the change was made in early 1955, who knows.  My guess is that by then,
> the Austin Healey name was such a success and established, that it could
> stand on its own...
>
>
>
> One man's opinion.
>
>
>
> Curt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 1:15 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> And I still have a question to which no one seems to have a
> definitive answer: Why (not when) did "Austin-Healey"
>
> become "Austin Healey"?
>
>
>
> I've heard various theories including the one where the supplier made a
> mistake and the factory took them at a discount and changed the company
> name but that really makes little sense.
>
>
>
> Does anyone *really* know the reason?
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 3:11 PM John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> Just a small point. There was not an issue of old stock because cars like
> the A70 Hereford and the A40 Somerset used them until they were phased out
> some time later.
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
>
>
> On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 16:28, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
>
> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
> old stock before installing new badge.
> Ken
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> Eric--
>
>
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>
> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>
> Hi gents,
>
> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>
>
>
> Some nice pictures can be found on:
> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>
>
>
> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>
>
>
> Cheers
> Eric
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
>
>
> --
>
> Best wishes
>
>
>
> John Harper
>
>
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Tue Jul 28 09:49:31 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 15:49:31 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting Site
Message-ID: <11b4bdbb-1f7d-424f-a87b-583549a6c02c@me.com>

Hadn't seen this site in years. I talked with the author of this site for quite a while at Queen's English in southern California years ago. That is my old 100 in the photos and it sure brought up some nice memories to see her again. What impressed me about the young man behind this site, was his enthusiasm for knowledge and getting it right. As you can see from his comments, he corrected things he got wrong and took the time to research questions. It's folks like him that make this car world better.?
???Kudos and thanks Bob for stumbling!
Steven Kingsbury

On July 27, 2020 at 6:44 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


Stumbled across this one today:

https://ateupwithmotor.com/model-histories/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Jul 31 05:59:48 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 12:59:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Dashpot query
Message-ID: <000c01d66732$18e588d0$4ab09a70$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I refer here to the piston/cap thing that screws into the top of an SU carb
dashpot. Thing that you unscrew to top up the dashpot oil.

So, one of my three always comes undone. The thread is fine..I've tried
swapping them around and it's always the same carb.

Car runs fine. Touch of choke to start it and for, say, a couple of minutes
thereafter. No backfires...bit of popping on the overrun downhill, nothing
spectacular.

Any ideas? 

I'm thinking mixture but unsure as to which way to go and unwilling to wreck
what seem to be good settings..

Simon

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 10:44:36 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 09:44:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQW_M09RMa0KERK1cDjzftP8qiP6XeGjRazf-j+jnzsrw@mail.gmail.com>

Ken,

The changeover from Austin of England to Austin Healey occurred in early
Jan of 1955, contrary to the popular misconception that it occurred in the
Fall of 1954.

We have many very original BN1s from this time period with the Austin of
England badge.  This is noted in the AH Concours Guidelines.

*This car is 222889 and has a body no. of 7149 , built 14 Jan. '55 *

*My car is 222664 and has a body no. of 7197, built 11 Jan. '55 has the
Austin of England badge from new. *

Michael Oritt has emailed that his car no. 222333 built Dec. '54 has this
badge.

Car no. 222764, an 18K original mile Spruce Green BN1 also has the Austin
of England badge from new.

Car no. 221342, body no. 6046 an OEW BN1 also has the Austin of England
badge from new.

Car no. 221862, body no. 6777 a Carmine red with red interior BN1 also has
the Austin of England badge from new.

Car no. 222344, body no. 7085 an OEW BN1 with 19K original miles also has
the Austin of England badge from new.   I am friends with the second and
current owner who knew the original owner!

The evidence is overwhelming.  If you suspect that your car from this time
period (Jan. '55) had the Austin of England boot badge, get in touch with
me.  We do know that by Feb. 18, 1955, the Austin Healey boot badge was
being used, so the change occurred between Jan. 14 and Feb. 14 1955!

Cheers,

Curt
AH Concours Registry Technical Committee.

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 8:29 AM Ken Fleming via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Very nice car. Appears to have good bones ! Great car to drive or restore.
> My car  160595 ,8/54 build also has Austin of England badge . Not sure
> where the change of badge occurred but  believe it was end of August . Also
> rear pods were added to BN1 about same time.Mine was late Aug and has pods
> and early badge. I?m certain during the change point they were using all of
> old stock before installing new badge.
> Ken
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 27, 2020, at 11:13 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
> Eric--
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 11:04 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Wow, very nice car. If that is indeed the original material on the seats
>> it's amazing that it's held up so well.
>>
>> On 7/27/2020 12:31 AM, Eric Metzner wrote:
>>
>> Hi gents,
>> perhaps of interst for some of you - Carmine red survivor, built january
>> 1955 BN1, 16883 original miles.
>>
>> Some nice pictures can be found on:
>> https://carrosso.nl/home-oud/for-sale/austin-healey-100-bn1-carmin-red.html
>>
>> Wears also "Austin of England" on the trunk lid
>>
>> Cheers
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 10:57:18 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 09:57:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQW_M09RMa0KERK1cDjzftP8qiP6XeGjRazf-j+jnzsrw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E4D4E0B-EA49-44B5-985D-F6BB987E1F69@aol.com>
 <CAJKrNeQW_M09RMa0KERK1cDjzftP8qiP6XeGjRazf-j+jnzsrw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSV0eDr=XDhdg0otMievB-rEaKRN7z8QPnTWYrDDjFt-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Gentleman

Correction, the first very original and low mile documented BN1 with the
"Austin Healey" boot badge is no. 224035 body no. 7970 built *Feb. 18,
1955.  *

So, the changeover most likely took place between Jan. 14 and Feb. 18,
1955.  Anyone who has a car built between these two dates and can confirm
100% that their car has its original badge, please let me know which one
it was. Be advised that due to misinformation available early on, many cars
in the date range may have had their badges replaced with the Austin Healey
badge during restoration.

Curt
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jul 27 17:01:25 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2020 19:01:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
 <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfG9aoOr1KYXN1H1zg5zunkdrV1CnzSZYXH6xMxF8=whg@mail.gmail.com>

I was thinking the same thing, Mike, when Bonham's sold a restored factory
M for $140k:   https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25222/lot/321/

Healthy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 27, 2020 at 6:12 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I think I can find a project car for less that $103,000.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020, 1:50:09 PM PDT, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> So does mine, built November ?54.
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> *From: *Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
> *To: *Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
>
>
>
> Eric--
>
>
>
> My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on
> the boot.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
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>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jul 27 20:46:04 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2020 02:46:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"
In-Reply-To: <733319ff-37a3-09f6-1f48-8a5597d0b94c@comcast.net>
References: <trinity-5e07d14b-2f6e-4729-abc1-1179dcdaba43-1595835104351@3c-app-gmx-bs26>
 <a3446d21-3ea4-025c-ef46-2a1cd4312ae8@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B7B_E-XMcymbm4JVom+sUFxLi6FOdRLVBWiKW-uTRag1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <20200727205008.2958CA147D@autox.team.net>
 <1942242093.8023717.1595887897694@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <733319ff-37a3-09f6-1f48-8a5597d0b94c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR15MB2213CBB5530CAB0004050B00A5730@BYAPR15MB2213.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Love the advertisement even though none of it applies to my BN1.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 1:53 AM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"

I'd drive/keep that car just the way it is. The driveline has been overhauled, and there doesn't appear to be any significant rust. Maybe replace rubber parts.

An Austin-Healey 'Rat Rod.'


On 7/27/2020 3:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
I think I can find a project car for less that $103,000.
Mike MacLean

On Monday, July 27, 2020, 1:50:09 PM PDT, S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net><mailto:britfan1 at epix.net> wrote:



So does mine, built November ?54.

Sarah Carr

BN1 in PA

From: Michael Oritt<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 27, 2020 11:13 AM
To: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Austin Healey<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] interesting BN1 "survivor"



Eric--



My car is #222333 built 12/54 and also has an "Austin of England" badge on the boot.



Best--Michael Oritt

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 31 11:15:53 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 10:15:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dashpot query
In-Reply-To: <000c01d66732$18e588d0$4ab09a70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000c01d66732$18e588d0$4ab09a70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <016701d6675e$3fe3d190$bfab74b0$@sbcglobal.net>

Get a spray can of starter fluid and check to see if you have any intake air
leaks. That could cause the popping.

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:00 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dashpot query

 

I refer here to the piston/cap thing that screws into the top of an SU carb
dashpot. Thing that you unscrew to top up the dashpot oil.

So, one of my three always comes undone. The thread is fine..I've tried
swapping them around and it's always the same carb.

Car runs fine. Touch of choke to start it and for, say, a couple of minutes
thereafter. No backfires...bit of popping on the overrun downhill, nothing
spectacular.

Any ideas? 

I'm thinking mixture but unsure as to which way to go and unwilling to wreck
what seem to be good settings..

Simon

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From watterbury at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 31 15:55:54 2020
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (watterbury at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 17:55:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Biofuel conversion?
References: <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6@yahoo.com>

Hello all,
I was thinking about converting my Healey over to biofuel, what do you think about this fellow's approach?

https://youtu.be/GyrN75S5Cx8

Bill Atterbury
BT7 MkII
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Jul 31 17:05:10 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 19:05:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Biofuel conversion?
In-Reply-To: <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6@yahoo.com>
References: <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6.ref@yahoo.com>
 <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1596236718.2902.healeys@autox.team.net>

Bill etal
Watched the video but did not hear much about bio fuels unless the new fuel is RICE. I recall many guys in the late 1960?s talking about rice burners (probably can?t talk about that these days) but this Mk 2 is the first one I have seen with rice in the cylinders. Like ethanol there are issues with each new fuel that comes along.  Suspect that a little soy sauce will make the rice a little more palatable!  My tongue is contemplating a Hawaiian teriyaki beef plate lunch right now. 
Perry 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: watterbury--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 5:56 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Biofuel conversion?

Hello all,
I was thinking about converting my Healey over to biofuel, what do you think about this fellow's approach?

https://youtu.be/GyrN75S5Cx8

Bill Atterbury
BT7 MkII

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 31 21:26:16 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 20:26:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Biofuel conversion?
In-Reply-To: <20200731230544.60934A1516@autox.team.net>
References: <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6.ref@yahoo.com>
 <0618C60E-C88D-41DE-9F0D-2DB6F8CA80D6@yahoo.com>
 <20200731230544.60934A1516@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1a80b1fb-0fec-b8f3-4b02-6804472a5064@comcast.net>

The only potential biofuels I'm aware of are something similar to diesel 
made from recycled cooking oil and, our favorite, ethanol. I can't 
imagine a diesel-powered Healey; Healey engines have enough torque 
already and ethanol, even at only 10%, is no friend of older cars (and 
some new ones). Exxon had a project to create a gasoline 'substitute' 
from algae, but last I heard they're about ready to throw in the towel 
on the project.

On 7/31/2020 4:05 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>
> Bill etal
>
> Watched the video but did not hear much about bio fuels unless the new 
> fuel is RICE. I recall many guys in the late 1960?s talking about rice 
> burners (probably can?t talk about that these days) but this Mk 2 is 
> the first one I have seen with rice in the cylinders. Like ethanol 
> there are issues with each new fuel that comes along. ?Suspect that a 
> little soy sauce will make the rice a little more palatable!? My 
> tongue is contemplating a Hawaiian teriyaki beef plate lunch right now.
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *watterbury--- via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Friday, July 31, 2020 5:56 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Biofuel conversion?
>
> Hello all,
>
> I was thinking about converting my Healey over to biofuel, what do you 
> think about this fellow's approach?
>
> https://youtu.be/GyrN75S5Cx8
>
> Bill Atterbury
>
> BT7 MkII
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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