[Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator

Perry healeyguy at aol.com
Tue Jan 14 18:44:47 MST 2020


Roger
The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought.  My thermodynamics classes were long ago and  I really wasn’t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. 
I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list.  Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild.
Perry

“Bob
With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.  Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100’s. 
On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.  I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. 
Ok Bob, while I’m putting this email together  I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. 
P



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Roger Grace
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator

Just a thought ...
Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow.
However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed.
So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2.
So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect.
It had minor improvement for me in traffic.
I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling.
Works really well in conjuction with an E fan
The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose.
Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. 
So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on.
Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk.
rg

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Robert--

I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  
I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>

To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>

Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator
I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.
 
What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?
 
By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.  
 
Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?
 
Bob 
 
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator
 
Bob
With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.
Perry
 
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 
From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator
 
Hi Perry:
 
I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.
 
Bob
 


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