[Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator
sbyers at ec.rr.com
Mon Jan 13 17:59:21 MST 2020
Bob, I had continual problems for years with "overheating" -as indicated by
a gauge that wanted to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days. I tried a
lot of things that either didn't work at all or seemed to make the problem
worse. The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge
to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust
the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge at the 212 degree mark.
Mine was reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a
more modern core ($444). Any competent radiator shop will know how to do
that to improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. I
have neither a pusher fan or a "shovel", but I do have a Texas Kooler fan.
It's normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after the engine is shut down
when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving down the road at 2000 -
In cooler weather my gauge will run at 165 - 170 when the engine is fully
warmed up, and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 - 190. It goes to
212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I've paid
I avoided having to pull the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it by using
a portable Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the
stove on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor
could be immersed in the water.
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the
I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector
to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant
temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to
4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower
or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I
believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be
installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this
modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant
temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they
do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature.
Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to
keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls.
Have any of you found success with this modification?
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