From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 1 05:05:21 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 13:05:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot of common parts were used. See below: Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo below. Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Wed Jan 1 07:11:33 2020 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 15:11:33 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1577887893871.5597930.f9590ad352d5ed542bde5fe8b9e6cad61d25372e@spica.telekom.de> Hello Keith, The hinge on the picture looks identical to an Ausstin-Healey boot hinge. I will check for the exact dimensions this afternoon. The hinges for the Daimler SP250 are different. They are higher, more profiled, even you can use the Austin-Healey hinges for the Daimler SP250. I own both type of cars, so I know. The quality of the aftermarket hinges are different. That could be the reason the AH Spares hinges are more expensive. But I have to say most aftermarket hinges are anyway far inferior in quality of the chrome and very "wavy" compared to original hinges. Best your friend let have the original hinges rechromed. That?s what I do. Josef eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] boot hinges Datum: 2020-01-01T13:06:27+0100 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot of common parts were used. See below: Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo below. [Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG] Kees Oudesluijs ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 07:50:37 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 09:50:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't ask me how I know ? M On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 7:05 AM Kees Oudesluijs, wrote: > A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known > large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen > circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted > Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if > the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the > big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot > of common parts were used. > > See below: > > Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are > Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley > do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the > existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure > they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to > hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price > for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So > is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler > Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check > the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo > below. > > [image: Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG] > > > Kees Oudesluijs > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 10:42:22 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 09:42:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH. If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it will then become very apparent. On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot > Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. > The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. > If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't > ask me how I know ? > > M > > On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 7:05 AM Kees Oudesluijs, > wrote: > >> A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known >> large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen >> circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted >> Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if >> the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the >> big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot >> of common parts were used. >> >> See below: >> >> Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are >> Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley >> do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the >> existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure >> they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to >> hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price >> for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So >> is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler >> Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check >> the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo >> below. >> >> [image: Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG] >> >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Jan 1 10:51:22 2020 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 12:51:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <5E664E41-0754-4752-B62D-4C43E2D39EB0@rogers.com> I had trouble with my original ones being re-chromed?the chroming was too thick in places and the hinges wouldn?t move smoothly through their rotation. I can recommend the hinges that AH Spares sells. They look right, operate properly and are marked left and right. This may be why they cost more. Stephen, BJ8 > On Jan 1, 2020, at 12:42 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH. If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it will then become very apparent. > > On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter > wrote: > Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. > The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. > If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't ask me how I know ? > > M > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Jan 1 10:51:22 2020 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 12:51:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <5E664E41-0754-4752-B62D-4C43E2D39EB0@rogers.com> I had trouble with my original ones being re-chromed?the chroming was too thick in places and the hinges wouldn?t move smoothly through their rotation. I can recommend the hinges that AH Spares sells. They look right, operate properly and are marked left and right. This may be why they cost more. Stephen, BJ8 > On Jan 1, 2020, at 12:42 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH. If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it will then become very apparent. > > On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter > wrote: > Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. > The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. > If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't ask me how I know ? > > M > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 11:24:07 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 10:24:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: Vewwwwwy interesting ... Would oil pressure be at least an indirect indicator of how much load the pump is putting on the cam and driveshaft gears?? IIRC, the nominal proper pressures for a Big Healey engine are 20psi at hot idle--which, per the book, is 600RPM--and 40-45 at speed?? When I bought my BJ8 the safety gauge would indicate zero pressure at hot idle; obviously some oil was flowing or the engine would have seized in a few seconds.? When I finally got the safety gauge refurbished, by West Vally Instruments, I 'gained' 15-20psi at hot idle and still showed 45psi or so at speed.? I got the exact same readings after installing the DWM 'High Capacity' pump but I figure the gun-drilled camshaft is effectively a large 'leak.' I'm not a fluid dynamicist, but wouldn't, say, 45psi from either a vane/rotor type pump put the same load on the cam gear and driveshaft as 45psi from a gear-type pump, all other factors--oil viscosity, etc.--being equal?? Or, is there some other factor(s) at play?? Do the gear-type pumps produce lower pressure (seems to me that's the only way they'd reduce the load on the gears and the cam thrust plate)? Bob On 12/31/2019 9:03 PM, Larry Varley wrote: > As a matter of interest the rotary oil pump is from the Austin A70 2.2 > litre engine, same rotor. Then when the 2.6 litre engine was produced > for the Healey 100 Austin changed the pumps to the gear type. Probably > because the gear type pumps less oil and they knew the cars would be > revved harder. In an A70 and 100 engine the rotary pump will produce > up to 80 PSI oil pressure and around 3000 engine revs, where the gear > pump will produce about 60 PSI with the same bypass spring. This shows > the rotary pump has a far greater output. Austin may have changed the > pump running speed when they fitted the rotary pump to the six > cylinder cars, I don't know. Austin A70's have no problem with 80 PSI > oil pressure, but then we all know the 6 cylinder engine was an > inferior design :)) > Cheers > Larry Varley > > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 1 11:27:49 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 10:27:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <007601d5c0d1$2c534450$84f9ccf0$@sbcglobal.net> My '62 BT7 has a stock oil pump and the indicated oil pressure always reads very low, 20 psi if I recall correctly, when the engine is up to operating temperature. I think this has been an issue with the car and a discussion topic for eons. I have never experienced a problem or issue with the oil pressure or the value stated on the gauge. Are people experiencing engine issues because of this? John Spaur San Jose -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Varley Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:03 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps As a matter of interest the rotary oil pump is from the Austin A70 2.2 litre engine, same rotor. Then when the 2.6 litre engine was produced for the Healey 100 Austin changed the pumps to the gear type. Probably because the gear type pumps less oil and they knew the cars would be revved harder. In an A70 and 100 engine the rotary pump will produce up to 80 PSI oil pressure and around 3000 engine revs, where the gear pump will produce about 60 PSI with the same bypass spring. This shows the rotary pump has a far greater output. Austin may have changed the pump running speed when they fitted the rotary pump to the six cylinder cars, I don't know. Austin A70's have no problem with 80 PSI oil pressure, but then we all know the 6 cylinder engine was an inferior design :)) Cheers Larry Varley _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 11:33:36 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 10:33:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <007601d5c0d1$2c534450$84f9ccf0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <007601d5c0d1$2c534450$84f9ccf0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <6f7a0aa8-7af9-674a-a667-82d92721f6a4@comcast.net> John, Have you checked against a calibrated gauge (or had your own adjusted/calibrated)?? My BJ8 showed zero pressure at idle when I bought it, but having the safety gauge adjusted 'added' 15-20psi at idle. Bob On 1/1/2020 10:27 AM, John Spaur wrote: > My '62 BT7 has a stock oil pump and the indicated oil pressure always reads very low, 20 psi if I recall correctly, when the engine is up to operating temperature. I think this has been an issue with the car and a discussion topic for eons. I have never experienced a problem or issue with the oil pressure or the value stated on the gauge. Are people experiencing engine issues because of this? > > John Spaur > San Jose > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Varley > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:03 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps > > As a matter of interest the rotary oil pump is from the Austin A70 2.2 litre engine, same rotor. Then when the 2.6 litre engine was produced for the Healey 100 Austin changed the pumps to the gear type. Probably because the gear type pumps less oil and they knew the cars would be revved harder. In an A70 and 100 engine the rotary pump will produce up to 80 PSI oil pressure and around 3000 engine revs, where the gear pump will produce about 60 PSI with the same bypass spring. This shows the rotary pump has a far greater output. Austin may have changed the pump running speed when they fitted the rotary pump to the six cylinder cars, I don't know. Austin A70's have no problem with 80 PSI oil pressure, but then we all know the 6 cylinder engine was an inferior design :)) Cheers Larry Varley _______________________________________________ > > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 1 11:37:18 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 19:37:18 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: Absolutely correct. There may be theoretically a tiny difference, immeasurable probably, caused by the efficiency of the various pumps. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-1-2020 om 19:24 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I'm not a fluid dynamicist, but wouldn't, say, 45psi from either a > vane/rotor type pump put the same load on the cam gear and driveshaft > as 45psi from a gear-type pump, all other factors--oil viscosity, > etc.--being equal?? Or, is there some other factor(s) at play?? Do the > gear-type pumps produce lower pressure (seems to me that's the only > way they'd reduce the load on the gears and the cam thrust plate)? > > Bob From autofarm at wightman.ca Wed Jan 1 11:38:00 2020 From: autofarm at wightman.ca (Autofarm@wightman.ca) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 13:38:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4A6C7BB1-39AD-4FF1-A451-B42792099D13@wightman.ca> If you look inside the long part of an original hinge you will see that they are marked L/H or R/H. Looking from the bottom side you can easily see the slope of the short parts going in opposite directions. Cheers......Bob Sent from my iPad > On Jan 1, 2020, at 12:42 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH. If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it will then become very apparent. > >> On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter wrote: >> Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. >> The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. >> If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't ask me how I know ? >> >> M >> >>> On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 7:05 AM Kees Oudesluijs, wrote: >>> A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot of common parts were used. >>> >>> See below: >>> >>> Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo below. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at wightman.ca > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 11:51:40 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 10:51:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] APEX anodizing Message-ID: http://apexanodizing.com/services.html Nfi I have two sets of trim for my bn4. One is a dull anodizing, the other is polished. I have never used the above shop, but have thought about tsking them my bits to get an estimate. Anyone in the list have knowledge about their work? Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 12:00:21 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 14:00:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height Message-ID: My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean": the left rear ride height is lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched is there any way to cure this? Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 12:12:26 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 11:12:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: switch it over to RHD and put weight on the right side of the car to even it out Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 11:06 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean": the left rear ride height is > lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). > > Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched > is there any way to cure this? > > Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: > > https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 12:22:35 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 14:22:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Michael, If you actually think about it carefully ... if the front is level then the back has to be level unless the whole car twists!! To really know what is going on you have to a little diagnosis. On V*ERY LEVEL GROUND* place a piece water pipe or similar on the saddle of your jack then position it directly and accurately under the middle of the front X member and lift the the front until the wheels just leave the ground so that the car can freely rock left and right on the pipe. Now measure the rear ride height ... measure the frame to ground distance either side of the rear X member. Now repeat that process with the jack under the diff drain plug and measure the front. Only by doing that can you properly assess which spring (or spring) has the problem ... BTW it will almost certainly be the left rear :-) and often swapping the rears side to side often helps ... for a while... My personal experience with "cold re-arching" has been a dismal failure but maybe others have had better luck. M On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 2:06 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean": the left rear ride height is > lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). > > Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched > is there any way to cure this? > > Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: > > https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 12:23:50 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 19:23:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> , Message-ID: Oil pumps, vane, rotary and gear type are all positive displacement devices, meaning that they will continue to build pressure against resistance to the point where something breaks. That is why they are all equipped with a bypass valve which limits the amount of pressure in the system. The amount of stress on the geardtrain is directly proportional to the pressure developed. I'm not sure if the problems related to the rotary type pumps is a result of the stress of driving the pump or to the larger pressure pulses (vibration) that are inherent in the design. The manufacturer selects the bypass valve and spring assembly that will keep the pressure within a safe range while protecting the drive system from over stress. The four cylinder engines are supposed to run at a maximum of 50-55 PSI, the sixes somewhat lower, and it is the bypass valve that maintains that pressure even though the pump itself is capable of much higher pressures if it encounters excessive resistance. Viscosity change in the oil when at higher temperatures will reduce pressure by reducing the resistance of the oil circulating through the various clearances in the engine. As the engine wears these clearances will increase thus reducing resistance and dropping oil pressure. Oil pressure alone is not as important as is a constant flow of oil to all components combined with the film strength of a good quality oil. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 6:37 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps Absolutely correct. There may be theoretically a tiny difference, immeasurable probably, caused by the efficiency of the various pumps. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-1-2020 om 19:24 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I'm not a fluid dynamicist, but wouldn't, say, 45psi from either a > vane/rotor type pump put the same load on the cam gear and driveshaft > as 45psi from a gear-type pump, all other factors--oil viscosity, > etc.--being equal? Or, is there some other factor(s) at play? Do the > gear-type pumps produce lower pressure (seems to me that's the only > way they'd reduce the load on the gears and the cam thrust plate)? > > Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 12:29:58 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 19:29:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: <4A6C7BB1-39AD-4FF1-A451-B42792099D13@wightman.ca> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> , <4A6C7BB1-39AD-4FF1-A451-B42792099D13@wightman.ca> Message-ID: Depending on how the hinge is located on the car the LH and RH markings may not be correct for the Jensen. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Autofarm at wightman.ca Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 6:38 PM To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] boot hinges If you look inside the long part of an original hinge you will see that they are marked L/H or R/H. Looking from the bottom side you can easily see the slope of the short parts going in opposite directions. Cheers......Bob Sent from my iPad On Jan 1, 2020, at 12:42 PM, richard mayor > wrote: The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH. If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it will then become very apparent. On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter > wrote: Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the base. The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined ... don't ask me how I know ? M On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 7:05 AM Kees Oudesluijs, > wrote: A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the well known large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's but what is known in Jensen circles as the "early Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted Austin platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be surprising if the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as on the boot of one of the big Healey's, as both cars were built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot of common parts were used. See below: Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early Interceptor are Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look the same. SC Parts of Crawley do these relatively cheaply, probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the existing, but what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany and isn't to hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure anything but oddly their price for the same hinges is much higher, usually it is the other way around). So is there anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, who could check the dimensions of the hinges? What i am trying to match is as the photo below. [Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG] Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at wightman.ca -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 12:33:56 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 19:33:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Get a hefty girl to ride along...? Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 7:00 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Ride height My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean": the left rear ride height is lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched is there any way to cure this? Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Wed Jan 1 12:40:26 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 19:40:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I have heard of switching leaf springs across the car. R Kahn Sent from my iPhone On Jan 1, 2020, at 11:34 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: ? Get a hefty girl to ride along...? Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 7:00 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Ride height My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean": the left rear ride height is lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched is there any way to cure this? Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 1 13:12:05 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 20:12:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2038957330.5627933.1577909526004@mail.yahoo.com> All Suspension | | | | All Suspension BCC Leaf Springs are made from British steel and are manufactured to an exact standard using an ISO 9001 quality... | | | Bought new springs from these people for my BN2 because of all the talk of incorrect ride hieght with springs from the usual suspects. NFI, just a satisfied customer. Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 11:06:58 AM PST, Michael Oritt wrote: My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean":? the left rear ride height is lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring re-arched is there any way to cure this? Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jan 1 13:16:20 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 20:16:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <1107196780.5630681.1577909780589@mail.yahoo.com> Well, then explain to me why a Bugeye I had back in the 70s would read 60 PSI at speed when the proper amount of oil was in the engine.? At one quart low, it would read 40 PSI at speed.? Put in a quart and the pressure would go right back up to 60 PSI.? It amounted to a rolling oil change with intermittent filter changes.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 11:24:06 AM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: #yiv5245057248 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Oil pumps, vane, rotary and gear type are all positive displacement devices, meaning that they will continue to build pressure against resistance to the point where something breaks. That is why they are all equipped with a bypass valve which limits the amount of pressure in the system. The amount of stress on the geardtrain is directly proportional to the pressure developed. I'm not sure if the problems related to the rotary type pumps is a result of the stress of driving the pump or to the larger pressure pulses (vibration) that are inherent in the design.? The manufacturer selects the bypass valve and spring assembly that will keep the pressure within a safe range while protecting the drive system from over stress. The four cylinder engines are supposed to run at a maximum of 50-55 PSI, the sixes somewhat lower, and it is the bypass valve that maintains that pressure even though the pump itself is capable of much higher pressures if it encounters excessive resistance.? Viscosity change in the oil when at higher temperatures will reduce pressure by reducing the resistance of the oil circulating through the various clearances in the engine. As the engine wears these clearances will increase thus reducing resistance and dropping oil pressure. Oil pressure alone is not as important as is a constant flow of oil to all components combined with the film strength of a good quality oil.? Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 6:37 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps?Absolutely correct. There may be theoretically a tiny difference, immeasurable probably, caused by the efficiency of the various pumps. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-1-2020 om 19:24 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I'm not a fluid dynamicist, but wouldn't, say, 45psi from either a > vane/rotor type pump put the same load on the cam gear and driveshaft > as 45psi from a gear-type pump, all other factors--oil viscosity, > etc.--being equal?? Or, is there some other factor(s) at play?? Do the > gear-type pumps produce lower pressure (seems to me that's the only > way they'd reduce the load on the gears and the cam thrust plate)? > > Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 1 13:44:55 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 21:44:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges In-Reply-To: References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <2d49d790-c664-0733-b31d-fbb30a738b6a@chello.nl> <4A6C7BB1-39AD-4FF1-A451-B42792099D13@wightman.ca> Message-ID: I do not think that would be a problem, being clear enough when fitted. Thanks all for the advise given. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-1-2020 om 20:29 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE: > Depending on how the hinge is located on the car the LH and RH > markings may not be correct for the Jensen. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > Autofarm at wightman.ca > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 1, 2020 6:38 PM > *To:* richard mayor > *Cc:* healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] boot hinges > If you look inside the long part of an original hinge you will see > that they are marked L/H or R/H. Looking from the bottom side you can > easily see the slope of the short parts going in opposite directions. > Cheers......Bob > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 1, 2020, at 12:42 PM, richard mayor > wrote: > >> The hinges are handed. This is what Michael is referring to when he >> says the "angle of the base". It is very hard to tell which is which >> if you only look at one by itself. They are not marked as LH or RH.? >> If you put two of them side by side, a left hand and a right hand, it >> will then become very apparent. >> >> On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 6:48 AM Michael Salter >> > wrote: >> >> Just a comment on that type on hinge, all of which were made by >> Wilmot Breedon, be very careful of the profile and angle of the >> base. >> The idea is that when installed the hinge pins are perfectly in line. >> If incorrect angle hinges are used a paint job can be ruined? ... >> don't ask me how I know ? >> >> M >> >> On Wed, Jan 1, 2020, 7:05 AM Kees Oudesluijs, >> > wrote: >> >> A friend of mine is working on a Jensen Interceptor, not the >> well known large coupe's from the late 1960's early 1970's >> but what is known in Jensen circles as the "early >> Interceptor" from the 1950's based on an adapted Austin >> platform with a 4ltr Austin engine. It would not be >> surprising if the Interceptors bonnet hinges are the same as >> on the boot of one of the big Healey's, as both cars were >> built by the Jensen factory. Probably a lot of common parts >> were used. >> >> See below: >> >> Alan at Kestrel believes the bonnet hinges on the early >> Interceptor are Big Healey boot hinges, they certainly look >> the same. SC Parts of Crawley do these relatively cheaply, >> probably cheaper than trying to rechrome the existing, but >> what SC parts will never do is check dimensions to ensure >> they are actually the same as their stock comes from Germany >> and isn't to hand for measuring (AH Spares will measure >> anything but oddly their price for the same hinges is much >> higher, usually it is the other way around). So is there >> anyone out there with an Austin Healey 3000, or a Daimler >> Dart/SP250 as S C Parts list the same hinges for both cars, >> who could check the dimensions of the hinges? What i am >> trying to match is as the photo below. >> >> Bonnet hinge dimensions.JPG >> >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at wightman.ca >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 14:19:05 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 13:19:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends).? My BN2 has noticeable lean; was there a difference in design, composition or structure between earlier and later cars? On 1/1/2020 11:33 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Get a hefty girl to ride along...? > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 14:24:46 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 13:24:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <1107196780.5630681.1577909780589@mail.yahoo.com> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <1107196780.5630681.1577909780589@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <175befb7-714f-7b74-58c2-0ce24e3596fd@comcast.net> Cavitation at the pump resulting in aeration of the oil? On 1/1/2020 12:16 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Well, then explain to me why a Bugeye I had back in the 70s would read > 60 PSI at speed when the proper amount of oil was in the engine.? At > one quart low, it would read 40 PSI at speed.? Put in a quart and the > pressure would go right back up to 60 PSI.? It amounted to a rolling > oil change with intermittent filter changes. > Mike MacLean > > On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 11:24:06 AM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: > > > Oil pumps, vane, rotary and gear type are all positive displacement > devices, meaning that they will continue to build pressure against > resistance to the point where something breaks. That is why they are > all equipped with a bypass valve which limits the amount of pressure > in the system. The amount of stress on the geardtrain is directly > proportional to the pressure developed. I'm not sure if the problems > related to the rotary type pumps is a result of the stress of driving > the pump or to the larger pressure pulses (vibration) that are > inherent in the design. > > The manufacturer selects the bypass valve and spring assembly that > will keep the pressure within a safe range while protecting the drive > system from over stress. The four cylinder engines are supposed to run > at a maximum of 50-55 PSI, the sixes somewhat lower, and it is the > bypass valve that maintains that pressure even though the pump itself > is capable of much higher pressures if it encounters excessive > resistance. > > Viscosity change in the oil when at higher temperatures will reduce > pressure by reducing the resistance of the oil circulating through the > various clearances in the engine. As the engine wears these clearances > will increase thus reducing resistance and dropping oil pressure. Oil > pressure alone is not as important as is a constant flow of oil to all > components combined with the film strength of a good quality oil. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Kees > Oudesluijs > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 1, 2020 6:37 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps > Absolutely correct. There may be theoretically a tiny difference, > immeasurable probably, caused by the efficiency of the various pumps. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 1-1-2020 om 19:24 schreef Bob Spidell: > > > > I'm not a fluid dynamicist, but wouldn't, say, 45psi from either a > > vane/rotor type pump put the same load on the cam gear and driveshaft > > as 45psi from a gear-type pump, all other factors--oil viscosity, > > etc.--being equal?? Or, is there some other factor(s) at play?? Do the > > gear-type pumps produce lower pressure (seems to me that's the only > > way they'd reduce the load on the gears and the cam thrust plate)? > > > > Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jan 1 14:32:21 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 22:32:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <96999602-df7e-cf2a-319b-e97f45e378e1@chello.nl> If the ride height on both sides at the front is the same, the right height left/right at the rear should be the same as well. If not the frame is twisted or more likely the measurement may be taken from the edge of the wing cut-outs to the floor. The latter is unreliable as the wings may not be the original ones and anyway even if they are original there were very likely differences left/right from the day the car left the factory. One really should take measurements on a totally flat and even surface (concrete floor) to the same chassis points left and right. Even than you have to find out the tolerances for the chassis measurements. Perhaps the chassis? may be only elastically deformed, as the A-H chassis is not very stiff, caused by one bad spring in which case _both_ springs at the rear should be replaced. If less than 15mm and no broken leaves I would not worry to much. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-1-2020 om 20:00 schreef Michael Oritt: > My 100 is suffering from "Bachelor's Lean":? the left rear ride height > is lower by about 1/2" (the front is fine). > > Short of getting new springs or having the present left spring > re-arched is there any way to cure this? > > Also, what is the thinking on this method of re-arching: > > https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-...twist.3263558/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 1 14:39:55 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 13:39:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <6f7a0aa8-7af9-674a-a667-82d92721f6a4@comcast.net> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> <007601d5c0d1$2c534450$84f9ccf0$@sbcglobal.net> <6f7a0aa8-7af9-674a-a667-82d92721f6a4@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00c301d5c0ec$04122310$0c366930$@sbcglobal.net> Bob, I think it was calibrated when I had the gauges rebuilt. The oil pressure is fine. Happy New Year! John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 10:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps John, Have you checked against a calibrated gauge (or had your own adjusted/calibrated)? My BJ8 showed zero pressure at idle when I bought it, but having the safety gauge adjusted 'added' 15-20psi at idle. Bob On 1/1/2020 10:27 AM, John Spaur wrote: > My '62 BT7 has a stock oil pump and the indicated oil pressure always reads very low, 20 psi if I recall correctly, when the engine is up to operating temperature. I think this has been an issue with the car and a discussion topic for eons. I have never experienced a problem or issue with the oil pressure or the value stated on the gauge. Are people experiencing engine issues because of this? > > John Spaur > San Jose > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Larry Varley > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:03 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps > > As a matter of interest the rotary oil pump is from the Austin A70 2.2 litre engine, same rotor. Then when the 2.6 litre engine was produced for the Healey 100 Austin changed the pumps to the gear type. Probably because the gear type pumps less oil and they knew the cars would be revved harder. In an A70 and 100 engine the rotary pump will produce up to 80 PSI oil pressure and around 3000 engine revs, where the gear pump will produce about 60 PSI with the same bypass spring. This shows the rotary pump has a far greater output. Austin may have changed the pump running speed when they fitted the rotary pump to the six cylinder cars, I don't know. Austin A70's have no problem with 80 PSI oil pressure, but then we all know the 6 cylinder engine was an inferior design :)) Cheers Larry Varley _______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 16:43:46 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 15:43:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps Message-ID: We racers have known about the dangers of using the rotor style pumps for decades. I personally know more than half a dozen racers who destroyed their camshafts using high volume oil pumps back in the 90s - including me. I lost two camshafts! Jeff Johnk built a test bed, did extensive testing of more than 50 hours on both style pumps, and wrote an exhaustive article that appeared in the May, 1998, issue of Chatter, entitled Pumped Up For Racing. I suggest than anyone who is thinking about using a rotor style pump read this article first. Think about this for a minute. The rotor style pump caused problems in the 2.6 liter 100/6 motors. Austin changed to a gear style pump a month or so into the production of the 2.9 liter 3000 motors and the problems went away. Why would anyone want to use a 100/6 oil pump? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 17:33:45 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 16:33:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm gonna make a SWAG that racers routinely run at 6K RPM or more. I rarely go over 3,500 RPM in my BJ8, with 3.54 diff, and the 100s are known to break crankshafts if driven at 4K for long.?? Either the gear pumps run at reduced pressure at lower RPMs or the pulsed output of the vane-type is causing the problems. The DWM tech/sales people recommended the HC pump to me, and I asked about their suitability; hence my questions about the company.? From their glossy catalog: "We recommend the high capacity for all road engines using a standard type crank up to 6000 rpm and the standard pump for race engines, steel cranks or anything over 6000 rpm." On 1/1/2020 3:43 PM, richard mayor wrote: > We racers have known about the dangers of using the rotor style pumps > for decades. I personally know more than half a dozen racers who > destroyed their camshafts using high volume oil pumps back in the 90s > - including me. I lost two camshafts!? Jeff Johnk built a test bed, > did extensive testing of more than 50 hours on both style pumps, and > wrote an exhaustive article that appeared in the May, 1998, issue of > Chatter, entitled Pumped Up For Racing. > I suggest than anyone who is thinking about using a rotor style pump > read this article first. > Think about this for a minute. The rotor style pump caused problems in > the 2.6 liter 100/6 motors. Austin changed to a gear style pump a > month or so into the production of the 2.9 liter 3000 motors and the > problems went away. Why would anyone want to use a 100/6 oil pump? > From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 18:22:13 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 01:22:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> References: , <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> Message-ID: "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 1, 2020 9:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ride height Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends). My BN2 has noticeable lean; was there a difference in design, composition or structure between earlier and later cars? On 1/1/2020 11:33 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: Get a hefty girl to ride along...? Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 18:51:15 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 01:51:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: If you look at their construction the rotary pumps have four lobes that pump a large slug of oil for each cycle with each slug causing a load on the drive train. The gear pump has multiples of the number of lobes, but they are all smaller and so the load that each slug imposes is less. The total mass of oil pumped during a revolution will be approximately the same as a rotary and the total power needed to pump that volume may be close to the same, but the average stress load will be less due to the smaller slugs being supplied. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 12:33 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps I'm gonna make a SWAG that racers routinely run at 6K RPM or more. I rarely go over 3,500 RPM in my BJ8, with 3.54 diff, and the 100s are known to break crankshafts if driven at 4K for long. Either the gear pumps run at reduced pressure at lower RPMs or the pulsed output of the vane-type is causing the problems. The DWM tech/sales people recommended the HC pump to me, and I asked about their suitability; hence my questions about the company. From their glossy catalog: "We recommend the high capacity for all road engines using a standard type crank up to 6000 rpm and the standard pump for race engines, steel cranks or anything over 6000 rpm." On 1/1/2020 3:43 PM, richard mayor wrote: > We racers have known about the dangers of using the rotor style pumps > for decades. I personally know more than half a dozen racers who > destroyed their camshafts using high volume oil pumps back in the 90s > - including me. I lost two camshafts! Jeff Johnk built a test bed, > did extensive testing of more than 50 hours on both style pumps, and > wrote an exhaustive article that appeared in the May, 1998, issue of > Chatter, entitled Pumped Up For Racing. > I suggest than anyone who is thinking about using a rotor style pump > read this article first. > Think about this for a minute. The rotor style pump caused problems in > the 2.6 liter 100/6 motors. Austin changed to a gear style pump a > month or so into the production of the 2.9 liter 3000 motors and the > problems went away. Why would anyone want to use a 100/6 oil pump? > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 1 19:06:05 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 21:06:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: , <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bill Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 1 19:06:05 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 21:06:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: , <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bill Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Wed Jan 1 19:50:22 2020 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 21:50:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Message-ID: Hey guys, Just stop, my post of what my friend did to his early 100 BN1 trim, was about what he decided to do with his car without any concern about originality. I think it looks great and so does he. At the end of the day what else matters? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 1 19:56:13 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 18:56:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6091159c-239b-d6c9-2d18-91e53453eb48@comcast.net> OK, that makes sense. On 1/1/2020 5:51 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > If you look at their construction the rotary pumps have four lobes > that pump a large slug of oil for each cycle with each slug causing a > load on the drive train. The gear pump has multiples of the number of > lobes, but they are all smaller and so the load that each slug imposes > is less. The total mass of oil pumped during a revolution will be > approximately the same as a rotary and the total power needed to pump > that volume may be close to the same, but the average stress load will > be less due to the smaller slugs being supplied. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Thursday, January 2, 2020 12:33 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps > I'm gonna make a SWAG that racers routinely run at 6K RPM or more. I > rarely go over 3,500 RPM in my BJ8, with 3.54 diff, and the 100s are > known to break crankshafts if driven at 4K for long. Either the gear > pumps run at reduced pressure at lower RPMs or the pulsed output of the > vane-type is causing the problems. > > The DWM tech/sales people recommended the HC pump to me, and I asked > about their suitability; hence my questions about the company.? From > their glossy catalog: > > "We recommend the high capacity for all road engines using a standard > type crank up to 6000 rpm and the standard pump for race engines, steel > cranks or anything over 6000 rpm." > > > On 1/1/2020 3:43 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > We racers have known about the dangers of using the rotor style pumps > > for decades. I personally know more than half a dozen racers who > > destroyed their camshafts using high volume oil pumps back in the 90s > > - including me. I lost two camshafts!? Jeff Johnk built a test bed, > > did extensive testing of more than 50 hours on both style pumps, and > > wrote an exhaustive article that appeared in the May, 1998, issue of > > Chatter, entitled Pumped Up For Racing. > > I suggest than anyone who is thinking about using a rotor style pump > > read this article first. > > Think about this for a minute. The rotor style pump caused problems in > > the 2.6 liter 100/6 motors. Austin changed to a gear style pump a > > month or so into the production of the 2.9 liter 3000 motors and the > > problems went away. Why would anyone want to use a 100/6 oil pump? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 20:19:28 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 03:19:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: , <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> , Message-ID: I didn't say anything about my suspension. As a matter of fact I think I detect a little sag... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Perry Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 2:06 AM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ride height Bill Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 1 20:22:20 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 03:22:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: References: , <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> , , Message-ID: And please don't mention anything about girlfriends... (as if.) Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 3:19 AM To: Perry Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ride height I didn't say anything about my suspension. As a matter of fact I think I detect a little sag... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Perry Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 2:06 AM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] Ride height Bill Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 2 08:31:59 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 07:31:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: <20200102020638.C87DAA1075@autox.team.net> References: <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> <20200102020638.C87DAA1075@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <98e6410e-95e7-4822-e151-b0f1e195a88f@comcast.net> My semi-hefty girlfriends had excellent suspensions. On 1/1/2020 6:06 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > > Bill > > Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I > have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." > > See! There you go... > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Jan 2 10:19:51 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 12:19:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height, continued Message-ID: I am just back from measuring and the car is in fact low on the left *both back AND front *(as many of you predicted) by between 3/8" to 1/2" (+/- 1/16"). The actual ground clearance measurements from the concrete floor to the points of intersection of the transverse cross-members and the chassis rails--within the tolerances of a 4' spirit level and a steel tape--are: Front left: 6-1/8" . Front right: 6-5/8" Rear left: 7-0" Rear right: 7-3/8" I don't know the source of the fore and aft rake but I really cannot notice it and in any case it does not bother me. The lean to the left does disturb me esthetically, and btw it is probably a bit greater when I am on board. However, given the tolerances of parts for our cars, etc. I wonder if it is worth doing anything or, in the words of Mick Mulvaney, should I just get over it? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Jan 2 10:24:59 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 09:24:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Jeff Johnk's article on Oil Pumps Message-ID: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2020_01_02_08_52_43.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1260722 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Jan 2 10:27:15 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 17:27:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ride height, continued In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <646260370.7013011.1577986035740@mail.yahoo.com> In my opinion, if it bothers you, you should not just get over it! As I often have to remind my wife & so called friends, I do not care if "no one will notice", I do & it will bother me until I fix it or die.Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt To: Austin Healey Sent: Thu, Jan 2, 2020 11:20 am Subject: [Healeys] Ride height, continued I am just back from measuring and the car is in fact low on the left?both back?AND front?(as many of you predicted) by between 3/8" to 1/2" (+/- 1/16"). The actual ground clearance measurements from the concrete floor to the points of intersection of the transverse cross-members and the chassis rails--within the tolerances of a 4' spirit level and a steel tape--are: Front left: 6-1/8" . Front right: 6-5/8" Rear left: 7-0" Rear right: 7-3/8" I don't know the source of the fore and aft rake but I really cannot notice it and in any case it does not bother me. The lean to the left does disturb me esthetically, and btw it is probably a bit greater when I am on board. However, given the tolerances of parts for our cars, etc. I wonder if it is worth doing anything or, in the words of Mick Mulvaney, should I just get over it? Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Thu Jan 2 12:19:50 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 11:19:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <6091159c-239b-d6c9-2d18-91e53453eb48@comcast.net> References: <6091159c-239b-d6c9-2d18-91e53453eb48@comcast.net> Message-ID: <63395A8B1F8D4E3A80C737BFB2BE0C98@AllInOne> Lets not forget the pressure relief spring, accuracy of a 50 year old Healey oil pressure gauge, type of oil, engine RPM, etc are all variables affecting the oil pressure reading. Happy New Year to all.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2020 6:56 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps OK, that makes sense. On 1/1/2020 5:51 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: If you look at their construction the rotary pumps have four lobes that pump a large slug of oil for each cycle with each slug causing a load on the drive train. The gear pump has multiples of the number of lobes, but they are all smaller and so the load that each slug imposes is less. The total mass of oil pumped during a revolution will be approximately the same as a rotary and the total power needed to pump that volume may be close to the same, but the average stress load will be less due to the smaller slugs being supplied. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 12:33 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pumps I'm gonna make a SWAG that racers routinely run at 6K RPM or more. I rarely go over 3,500 RPM in my BJ8, with 3.54 diff, and the 100s are known to break crankshafts if driven at 4K for long. Either the gear pumps run at reduced pressure at lower RPMs or the pulsed output of the vane-type is causing the problems. The DWM tech/sales people recommended the HC pump to me, and I asked about their suitability; hence my questions about the company. From their glossy catalog: "We recommend the high capacity for all road engines using a standard type crank up to 6000 rpm and the standard pump for race engines, steel cranks or anything over 6000 rpm." On 1/1/2020 3:43 PM, richard mayor wrote: > We racers have known about the dangers of using the rotor style pumps > for decades. I personally know more than half a dozen racers who > destroyed their camshafts using high volume oil pumps back in the 90s > - including me. I lost two camshafts! Jeff Johnk built a test bed, > did extensive testing of more than 50 hours on both style pumps, and > wrote an exhaustive article that appeared in the May, 1998, issue of > Chatter, entitled Pumped Up For Racing. > I suggest than anyone who is thinking about using a rotor style pump > read this article first. > Think about this for a minute. The rotor style pump caused problems in > the 2.6 liter 100/6 motors. Austin changed to a gear style pump a > month or so into the production of the 2.9 liter 3000 motors and the > problems went away. Why would anyone want to use a 100/6 oil pump? > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jan 2 13:36:45 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 12:36:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height, continued In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael Many of us overthink and obsess over things that mzy not be an issue, but we want working or looking right. I spent a month working on a stuck open water valve, i may never shut off, but wanted it working. I now open and close it regularly to keep it from seizing again. Nothing to get over if we have the means and ability to fix it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Thu, Jan 2, 2020, 9:20 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > I am just back from measuring and the car is in fact low on the left *both > back AND front *(as many of you predicted) by between 3/8" to 1/2" (+/- > 1/16"). > > The actual ground clearance measurements from the concrete floor to the > points of intersection of the transverse cross-members and the chassis > rails--within the tolerances of a 4' spirit level and a steel tape--are: > > Front left: 6-1/8" . Front right: 6-5/8" > Rear left: 7-0" Rear right: 7-3/8" > > I don't know the source of the fore and aft rake but I really cannot > notice it and in any case it does not bother me. The lean to the left does > disturb me esthetically, and btw it is probably a bit greater when I am on > board. However, given the tolerances of parts for our cars, etc. I wonder > if it is worth doing anything or, in the words of Mick Mulvaney, should I > just get over it? > > Best--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Thu Jan 2 13:58:32 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2020 20:58:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ride height In-Reply-To: <98e6410e-95e7-4822-e151-b0f1e195a88f@comcast.net> References: <7292eb61-be78-ab27-f130-eac53e4490b3@comcast.net> <20200102020638.C87DAA1075@autox.team.net>, <98e6410e-95e7-4822-e151-b0f1e195a88f@comcast.net> Message-ID: IRS I assume... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 3:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ride height My semi-hefty girlfriends had excellent suspensions. On 1/1/2020 6:06 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: Bill Hope your girlfriends are not subscribed to the Healey list! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE "Curiously, my BJ8 with 205K miles doesn't have "Bachelor's Lean" (I have had a couple semi-hefty girlfriends)." See! There you go... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Fri Jan 3 00:32:49 2020 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:32:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Jeff Johnk's article on Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <85640735-e6f4-6509-8475-8e28070e3d44@cosmos.net.au> Ok, guys lets not get carried away. Firstly my 3000 MK1 was originally fitted with the rotary pump, so how is it a 100/6 pump that was quickly discontinued? Why does it seems every current Healey owner seem to think they need to use race engine principals in a car that most likely they will just take out for a cruise and coffee? I respect Jeff Johnk for his efforts with race engines and met him a few years ago in Australia. Nice guy. I did work with Dave Woodhouse and Max Cooper quite a lot during the development of the DMD alloy engine! Firstly there were problems with the race camshaft oil pump drive gears that were made in Queensland and sold by DMD in the early days. However that is probably not the whole problem. Yes the rotary pump produces more oil, so due to spring gain in the relief valve it will produce more oil pressure using a standard spring. Dave Woodhouse at DMD suggested and supplied me with a new old stock set of rotary gears for my BT7 pump as the best option for my road engine as I would get better oil pressure in that engine. The age old standard is that your engine should supply 10 PSI oil pressure per 1000 RPM, so that was fine by me. Yes lubrication to the drive gear on the cam is no where as good as it is in the Healey 100 engine, but I doubt it is an issue to any owner that has a road car. If you look at the two designs the spur gear pump was cheaper to produce, but suffer much more wear than the rotary pumps, so from Austin's perspective why use the more expensive pump when the Healey end was telling you they caused problems at sustained high RPM. So go your own way and enjoy it :) Regards Larry Varley On 3/01/2020 4:24 AM, richard mayor wrote: > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Jan 3 06:39:50 2020 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 08:39:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Ride height, continued In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1291469314.48270157.1578058790241.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> Interesting conversation. I too---for a very short time---worried over the height on one of my cars--my 66 E-Type. She sits 1/2" lower on one side than the other. To remedy that I'd have to pull the torsion bars and re-situate then would have to tweek it a few more times to get it right. that is a BEAR job to do. Then, I really started looking at it and decided that I couldn't tell when I looked at it and no one has ever said a word about it. So-----she still sits 1/2" lower on one side and no one (except those of you who read this:) knows---and I don't fret over it any longer.tom ----- Original Message ----- From: i erbs To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Thu, 02 Jan 2020 15:36:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ride height, continued MichaelMany of us overthink and obsess over things that mzy not be an issue, but we want working or looking right. I spent a month working on a stuck open water valve, i may never shut off, but wanted it working. I now open and close it regularly to keep it from seizing again. Nothing to get over if we have the means and ability to fix it. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Thu, Jan 2, 2020, 9:20 AM Michael Oritt wrote: I am just back from measuring and the car is in fact low on the left both back AND front (as many of you predicted) by between 3/8" to 1/2" (+/- 1/16").The actual ground clearance measurements from the concrete floor to the points of intersection of the transverse cross-members and the chassis rails--within the tolerances of a 4' spirit level and a steel tape--are:Front left: 6-1/8" . Front right: 6-5/8"Rear left: 7-0" Rear right: 7-3/8"I don't know the source of the fore and aft rake but I really cannot notice it and in any case it does not bother me. The lean to the left does disturb me esthetically, and btw it is probably a bit greater when I am on board. However, given the tolerances of parts for our cars, etc. I wonder if it is worth doing anything or, in the words of Mick Mulvaney, should I just get over it? Best--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 3 11:27:04 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 10:27:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Message-ID: Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia.? Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really.? Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts.? Be safe. Bob From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 3 12:17:59 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 11:17:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well said, The fires and destruction has been on my mind for days and I have meant to send out an email. I hope all are safe and these fires end soon. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 10:27 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging > in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here > but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, > really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the > most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and > others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn > funny to boot). > > As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent > wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to > relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Fri Jan 3 14:09:12 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 16:09:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 3 14:15:57 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 21:15:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1019330343.7705178.1578086157722@mail.yahoo.com> To the best of my knowledge, there are NO metric hardware on an original BN1.? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Charles Schott To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 3:09 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 3 14:32:01 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 16:32:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott wrote: > I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They > appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them > or know where I can get them? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 3 15:44:04 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 14:44:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> Indeed. Terrible devastation, not unfamiliar to Californians. We had a close call a few months back here in north Orange County, and of course Steven Kingsbury lost everything in the Paradise fire. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 11:18 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Well said, The fires and destruction has been on my mind for days and I have meant to send out an email. I hope all are safe and these fires end soon. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 10:27 AM Bob Spidell > wrote: Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 3 16:08:02 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 00:08:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1c2317e7-da43-c248-f7bd-89b27fbb068c@chello.nl> AFAIAC no metric threads on OE of UK cars prior to around 1970 apart may be from some Fords and Lotus. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-1-2020 om 22:09 schreef Charles Schott: > I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They > appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have > them or know where I can get them? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 3 16:22:19 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:22:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Got some feedback from Steve and Helen Pike and they appear to be out of harms way right now but the lighting and dry brush combo is sparking dozens of new fires daily. Summer down under. A strange thought for those of us ?enjoying? the cold temps in the north. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Fri Jan 3 16:27:28 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:27:28 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <1c2317e7-da43-c248-f7bd-89b27fbb068c@chello.nl> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1c2317e7-da43-c248-f7bd-89b27fbb068c@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1339766991.4757537.1578094048787.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> What about MG XPAG engines that had metric threads with Whitworth heads? Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kees Oudesluijs" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 5:08:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts AFAIAC no metric threads on OE of UK cars prior to around 1970 apart may be from some Fords and Lotus. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-1-2020 om 22:09 schreef Charles Schott: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Fri Jan 3 16:35:42 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:35:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and none of them come close. The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You tell me what I have. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 3 16:36:41 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 15:36:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <20200103232245.62E8AA0F14@autox.team.net> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> <20200103232245.62E8AA0F14@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Thanks Perry Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Fri, Jan 3, 2020, 3:22 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Got some feedback from Steve and Helen Pike and they appear to be out of > harms way right now but the lighting and dry brush combo is sparking dozens > of new fires daily. Summer down under. A strange thought for those of us > ?enjoying? the cold temps in the north. > > P > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 3 16:41:10 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:41:10 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <007601d5c28f$47a9cd40$d6fd67c0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Yes it is terrible and it?s been going on since the end of September. The fire threatening our area was started by lightening half way through October and is now over 2,200 square miles. Just in my state of New South Wales over 1,300 homes have been lost and it isn?t over. Sadly quite a number of people have lost their lives and many hundreds of thousands have been evacuated to safer areas. Today it?s forecast to be 45C or 113F with strong winds. A very dangerous combination. As far as I know none of our cars have been lost, unlike some years back when a Healey Silverstone and Elliott were burnt. We moved the Healey Duncan and BN3 to safer places before Christmas and then we moved ourselves for five days. When we got back the firefighters (amazing people) told us that the fire came within 500 metres of our home when the wind changed. Since then the firefighters have been backburning so that today we feel safe enough to stay. In total our everyday car has been packed and unpacked three times. Currently unpacked and certainly don?t want to pack it again. Attached is a photo of the BN3 being taken away. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 9:44 AM To: 'i erbs'; 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Indeed. Terrible devastation, not unfamiliar to Californians. We had a close call a few months back here in north Orange County, and of course Steven Kingsbury lost everything in the Paradise fire. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 11:18 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Well said, The fires and destruction has been on my mind for days and I have meant to send out an email. I hope all are safe and these fires end soon. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 10:27 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2763.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 806821 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Fri Jan 3 16:55:41 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 12:55:41 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000201d5c291$4f880b60$ee982220$@xtra.co.nz> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 7:27 a.m. To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins (and Patrick and Caroline Quinn in the Blue Mountains, NW of Sydney) and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. Bob On behalf of our Australian friends we thank you for your concern, Bob. Even though we are 1,400 miles east of the Australian coast here in NZ the westerly blows the smoke our way, and has been for a month now. We see it up here in Auckland province, but it is much thicker in the South Island. It has even turned parts of our Southern Alps and glaciers a caramel colour. It brings back memories of the ordeal poor Steven K went through in Paradise in 2019. We feel for our Aussie friends and keep a close eye on their excellent RFS (Rural Fire Service) web site. Mark Ardmore, Auckland NZ Some of you will have visited Queenstown. These two pics are a real eye-opener. Michael S, I recall your folks have a home there. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 139096 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 70894 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 3 17:19:22 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 11:19:22 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <007601d5c28f$47a9cd40$d6fd67c0$@tpg.com.au> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> <007601d5c28f$47a9cd40$d6fd67c0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <008c01d5c294$9dcc06c0$d9641440$@tpg.com.au> Hello again Just found this comparison on our national broadcaster?s website. To give some scale to what has happened here so far, international media outlets have been reporting the 2018 California fires burnt 2 million acres; the 2019 Amazon fires 2.2 million; and the 2019 Siberian fires 6.7 million. So far Australia's 2019/20 fires have burnt 12 million acres. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Amongst a patch of burnt Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 10:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Hello Yes it is terrible and it?s been going on since the end of September. The fire threatening our area was started by lightening half way through October and is now over 2,200 square miles. Just in my state of New South Wales over 1,300 homes have been lost and it isn?t over. Sadly quite a number of people have lost their lives and many hundreds of thousands have been evacuated to safer areas. Today it?s forecast to be 45C or 113F with strong winds. A very dangerous combination. As far as I know none of our cars have been lost, unlike some years back when a Healey Silverstone and Elliott were burnt. We moved the Healey Duncan and BN3 to safer places before Christmas and then we moved ourselves for five days. When we got back the firefighters (amazing people) told us that the fire came within 500 metres of our home when the wind changed. Since then the firefighters have been backburning so that today we feel safe enough to stay. In total our everyday car has been packed and unpacked three times. Currently unpacked and certainly don?t want to pack it again. Attached is a photo of the BN3 being taken away. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 9:44 AM To: 'i erbs'; 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Indeed. Terrible devastation, not unfamiliar to Californians. We had a close call a few months back here in north Orange County, and of course Steven Kingsbury lost everything in the Paradise fire. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 11:18 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Well said, The fires and destruction has been on my mind for days and I have meant to send out an email. I hope all are safe and these fires end soon. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 10:27 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 3 17:24:33 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 19:24:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charlie Just pulled an early BN 1 4 bolt hub front assembly from the bin. The side rod was still on it. The threads on the rod ends are 7/16-20 TPI. 11/16 inch across the flats. Here is the rub. Even though it looks like an early side rod, Is mounted to an early hub assembly, it is possible it has been replaced previously. Best I have at this point P Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 3, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > > ? > I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 3 17:24:33 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 19:24:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charlie Just pulled an early BN 1 4 bolt hub front assembly from the bin. The side rod was still on it. The threads on the rod ends are 7/16-20 TPI. 11/16 inch across the flats. Here is the rub. Even though it looks like an early side rod, Is mounted to an early hub assembly, it is possible it has been replaced previously. Best I have at this point P Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 3, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Charles Schott wrote: > > ? > I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Jan 3 17:27:29 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 16:27:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charles, What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charles Schott Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and none of them come close. The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You tell me what I have. Regards, Charlie _____ From: "Michael Salter" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott wrote: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 3 17:27:39 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 19:27:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie rod end slotted nuts References: Message-ID: Charlie Reference photo -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5813.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 33681 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 3 17:55:52 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 00:55:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <1339766991.4757537.1578094048787.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1c2317e7-da43-c248-f7bd-89b27fbb068c@chello.nl> <1339766991.4757537.1578094048787.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <915348752.7776182.1578099353003@mail.yahoo.com> I do know those are not BN1's. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Charles Schott To: Kees Oudesluijs Cc: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 5:27 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts What about MG XPAG engines that had metric threads with Whitworth heads? Regards, Charlie From: "Kees Oudesluijs" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 5:08:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts AFAIAC no metric threads on OE of UK cars prior to around 1970 apart may be from some Fords and Lotus. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-1-2020 om 22:09 schreef Charles Schott: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 3 19:03:25 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:03:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <008c01d5c294$9dcc06c0$d9641440$@tpg.com.au> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> <007601d5c28f$47a9cd40$d6fd67c0$@tpg.com.au> <008c01d5c294$9dcc06c0$d9641440$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1ba901d5c2a3$287a9e40$796fdac0$@roadrunner.com> Wow. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 4:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Hello again Just found this comparison on our national broadcaster?s website. To give some scale to what has happened here so far, international media outlets have been reporting the 2018 California fires burnt 2 million acres; the 2019 Amazon fires 2.2 million; and the 2019 Siberian fires 6.7 million. So far Australia's 2019/20 fires have burnt 12 million acres. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Amongst a patch of burnt Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 10:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Hello Yes it is terrible and it?s been going on since the end of September. The fire threatening our area was started by lightening half way through October and is now over 2,200 square miles. Just in my state of New South Wales over 1,300 homes have been lost and it isn?t over. Sadly quite a number of people have lost their lives and many hundreds of thousands have been evacuated to safer areas. Today it?s forecast to be 45C or 113F with strong winds. A very dangerous combination. As far as I know none of our cars have been lost, unlike some years back when a Healey Silverstone and Elliott were burnt. We moved the Healey Duncan and BN3 to safer places before Christmas and then we moved ourselves for five days. When we got back the firefighters (amazing people) told us that the fire came within 500 metres of our home when the wind changed. Since then the firefighters have been backburning so that today we feel safe enough to stay. In total our everyday car has been packed and unpacked three times. Currently unpacked and certainly don?t want to pack it again. Attached is a photo of the BN3 being taken away. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, 4 January 2020 9:44 AM To: 'i erbs'; 'Bob Spidell' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Indeed. Terrible devastation, not unfamiliar to Californians. We had a close call a few months back here in north Orange County, and of course Steven Kingsbury lost everything in the Paradise fire. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 11:18 AM To: Bob Spidell > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires Well said, The fires and destruction has been on my mind for days and I have meant to send out an email. I hope all are safe and these fires end soon. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 10:27 AM Bob Spidell > wrote: Almost hourly we're getting worse news about the terrible fires raging in southern Australia. Of course, there's nothing we can do from here but hope for the best for our Aussie Healey brethren, and all Aussies, really. Over the years, I've found the Australians to be some of the most enthusiastic Healey lovers--Larry, Chris, Mark, the Kilmartins and others I can't think of offhand--and are always helpful (and pretty damn funny to boot). As a Californian, though not directly affected by our recent wildfires--except for particularly bad air--I can, at least, try to relate at keep you all in my thoughts. Be safe. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 3 19:18:11 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 18:18:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires In-Reply-To: <1ba901d5c2a3$287a9e40$796fdac0$@roadrunner.com> References: <1a8701d5c287$4eafdf60$ec0f9e20$@roadrunner.com> <007601d5c28f$47a9cd40$d6fd67c0$@tpg.com.au> <008c01d5c294$9dcc06c0$d9641440$@tpg.com.au> <1ba901d5c2a3$287a9e40$796fdac0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: And killed half-a-billion or so of Australia's remarkable wildlife (some species may be gone for good). On 1/3/2020 6:03 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > Wow. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Sent:* Friday, January 03, 2020 4:19 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires > > Hello again > > Just found this comparison on our national broadcaster?s website. > > /To give some scale to what has happened here so far, international > media outlets have been reporting the 2018 California fires burnt 2 > million acres; the 2019 Amazon fires 2.2 million; and the 2019 > Siberian fires 6.7 million./ > > // > > /So far Australia's 2019/20 fires have burnt 12 million acres./ > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Amongst a patch of burnt Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Sent:* Saturday, 4 January 2020 10:41 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires > > Hello > > Yes it is terrible and it?s been going on since the end of September. > The fire threatening our area was started by lightening half way > through October and is now over 2,200 square miles. > > Just in my state of New South Wales over 1,300 homes have been lost > and it isn?t over. Sadly quite a number of people have lost their > lives and many hundreds of thousands have been evacuated to safer areas. > > Today it?s forecast to be 45C or 113F with strong winds. A very > dangerous combination. > > As far as I know none of our cars have been lost, unlike some years > back when a Healey Silverstone and Elliott were burnt. > > We moved the Healey Duncan and BN3 to safer places before Christmas > and then we moved ourselves for five days. When we got back the > firefighters (amazing people) told us that the fire came within 500 > metres of our home when the wind changed. Since then the firefighters > have been backburning so that today we feel safe enough to stay. > > In total our everyday car has been packed and unpacked three times. > Currently unpacked and certainly don?t want to pack it again. > > Attached is a photo of the BN3 being taken away. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains > > Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Saturday, 4 January 2020 9:44 AM > *To:* 'i erbs'; 'Bob Spidell' > *Cc:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [OT] Australian Fires > > Indeed.? Terrible devastation, not unfamiliar to Californians.? We had > a close call a few months back here in north Orange County, and of > course Steven Kingsbury lost everything in the Paradise fire. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jan 3 21:57:03 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 04:57:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <915348752.7776182.1578099353003@mail.yahoo.com> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1c2317e7-da43-c248-f7bd-89b27fbb068c@chello.nl> <1339766991.4757537.1578094048787.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>, <915348752.7776182.1578099353003@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: After WWI Nuffield Group acquired some of the assets of the French Armaments company Hotchkiss and they used some of their machine tooling in the production of their cars. Thus we have metric sizing and thread standards combined with Whitworth head sizes. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 3, 2020, at 17:56, "warthodson--- via Healeys" > wrote: I do know those are not BN1's. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Charles Schott > To: Kees Oudesluijs > Cc: healeys > Sent: Fri, Jan 3, 2020 5:27 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts What about MG XPAG engines that had metric threads with Whitworth heads? Regards, Charlie ________________________________ From: "Kees Oudesluijs" > To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 5:08:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts AFAIAC no metric threads on OE of UK cars prior to around 1970 apart may be from some Fords and Lotus. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-1-2020 om 22:09 schreef Charles Schott: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Fri Jan 3 22:26:17 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 21:26:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Message-ID: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Fri Jan 3 22:39:43 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 00:39:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) -skip- -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Jan 3 22:54:07 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 21:54:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) -skip- -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 3 23:10:26 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 22:10:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6320ba00-8922-1b0a-3df0-41d7550fa6c2@comcast.net> Last I checked--a few years ago--Dayton didn't offer 5.5" rims (5" or 6" only).? I have Dayton 72-spoke 6" rims on my BJ8, with Vredestein 185/70HR-15 tires (I'm on my third or fourth set).? The wheels/rims stick out more than I like--I think 5.5" would be better--and the rear tires rub against the rear rebound block bolts in very hard cornering.? But handling and grip are very good, even in the wet.??? When I bought them, nearly 30 years ago, Dayton quality was considered much superior to Dunlops, which were made in India at that time.? There's another brand available now--'MWS' or similar--and I think they may be contemporary versions of the Dunlops.? Best tires I ever had were Yokohama A321s, but they haven't been available in a couple decades. Shop around, I think you can beat Moss on price.? There's a 'British Wire Wheel' company, but I don't think they're related to the outfit Bruce Erfer sold long ago. Bob On 1/3/2020 9:26 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wheel.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 121817 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jan 3 23:20:58 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 06:20:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com>, <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I'm working with a group of guys to return a friend's Jag Mk3 to the road. We had to replace all of the center lock hubs, and of course the wheels as well. While looking for a source for these items we came across British Wire Wheel Service. They beat everyone else's prices for the whole package by a pretty substantial amount and their service was exceptional. The parts arrived promptly and are of very good quality and when we speculated on the phone that we might need to replace the wheel bearings too they just threw them in. We are very satisfied, as is the owner of the Jag who had to foot the bill. And while I can't guarantee they will give you free stuff I can still highly recommend this company. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 5:54 AM To: 'skip saunders' ; 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) -skip- -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 3 23:24:50 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 22:24:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <6320ba00-8922-1b0a-3df0-41d7550fa6c2@comcast.net> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <6320ba00-8922-1b0a-3df0-41d7550fa6c2@comcast.net> Message-ID: Found a link (NFI, and I've never done business with them): https://www.classiccarperformance.com/ On 1/3/2020 10:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Last I checked--a few years ago--Dayton didn't offer 5.5" rims (5" or > 6" only).? I have Dayton 72-spoke 6" rims on my BJ8, with Vredestein > 185/70HR-15 tires (I'm on my third or fourth set).? The wheels/rims > stick out more than I like--I think 5.5" would be better--and the rear > tires rub against the rear rebound block bolts in very hard > cornering.? But handling and grip are very good, even in the wet.??? > When I bought them, nearly 30 years ago, Dayton quality was considered > much superior to Dunlops, which were made in India at that time.? > There's another brand available now--'MWS' or similar--and I think > they may be contemporary versions of the Dunlops.? Best tires I ever > had were Yokohama A321s, but they haven't been available in a couple > decades. > > Shop around, I think you can beat Moss on price.? There's a 'British > Wire Wheel' company, but I don't think they're related to the outfit > Bruce Erfer sold long ago. > > Bob > > On 1/3/2020 9:26 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. >> When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My >> car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at >> shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. >> That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels >> and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want >> Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best >> combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal >> preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jan 3 23:27:10 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 06:27:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <6320ba00-8922-1b0a-3df0-41d7550fa6c2@comcast.net>, Message-ID: Yep, that's them. I think the salesman's name was Dave. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 6:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Found a link (NFI, and I've never done business with them): https://www.classiccarperformance.com/ On 1/3/2020 10:10 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Last I checked--a few years ago--Dayton didn't offer 5.5" rims (5" or 6" only). I have Dayton 72-spoke 6" rims on my BJ8, with Vredestein 185/70HR-15 tires (I'm on my third or fourth set). The wheels/rims stick out more than I like--I think 5.5" would be better--and the rear tires rub against the rear rebound block bolts in very hard cornering. But handling and grip are very good, even in the wet. When I bought them, nearly 30 years ago, Dayton quality was considered much superior to Dunlops, which were made in India at that time. There's another brand available now--'MWS' or similar--and I think they may be contemporary versions of the Dunlops. Best tires I ever had were Yokohama A321s, but they haven't been available in a couple decades. Shop around, I think you can beat Moss on price. There's a 'British Wire Wheel' company, but I don't think they're related to the outfit Bruce Erfer sold long ago. Bob On 1/3/2020 9:26 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 4 08:52:06 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:52:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <020201d5c316$ea74d600$bf5e8200$@sympatico.ca> My experience with 60 spoke wheels is the opposite to Skip's. I have a '59 BT7 which I have owned since 1974, and drove on the original 48 spoke wheels until 13 years ago. In that time I broke only one spoke on a rear wheel. When I had the body re-done in 2006 I decided to replace the wheels with consideration for metal fatigue in the original ones. I replaced them with Dunlop style 60 spoke wheels supplied by Bob Yule (who as always, provided exceptional service). These look much nicer in my opinion than the 72 spoke wheels, which seem to crowded for my taste (I think the 48 spoke wheels look nicest, but compromised for the added strength). I feel the additional strength of the 72 spoke wheel is overkill and unless you are really driving the blazes out of it or have way-oversized tires mounted, are unnecessary. My wheels are shod with correctly-sized Vredestein Sprints. The ride and handling is perfect. My car is a well-maintained driver, not concours, and has always been maintained as an original car. That's my two cents, but as Skip said, it?s a personal choice. Best, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders Sent: January-04-20 12:40 AM To: 'Bruce Peters'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) -skip- -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From schottc at knology.net Sat Jan 4 08:52:39 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:52:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage and it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way down the threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way through the slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. The diameter measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not been able to find a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have three of them but need three more. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Charles Schott" , "Michael Salter" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charles, What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charles Schott Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and none of them come close. The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You tell me what I have. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jan 4 08:54:52 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:54:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> Bruce, here is my input: I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 4 08:56:02 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 07:56:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <020201d5c316$ea74d600$bf5e8200$@sympatico.ca> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <01df01d5c2c1$5e743b50$1b5cb1f0$@gmail.com> <020201d5c316$ea74d600$bf5e8200$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <38502ce6-b147-0116-d4ef-003ce805b7df@comcast.net> My BJ8 had 60-spokers on it when I bought it.? I broke several spokes before I went to 72-spokers (but I drive a bit spirited when I get a chance). On 1/4/2020 7:52 AM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > My experience with 60 spoke wheels is the opposite to Skip's. I have a '59 BT7 which I have owned since 1974, and drove on the original 48 spoke wheels until 13 years ago. In that time I broke only one spoke on a rear wheel. When I had the body re-done in 2006 I decided to replace the wheels with consideration for metal fatigue in the original ones. I replaced them with Dunlop style 60 spoke wheels supplied by Bob Yule (who as always, provided exceptional service). These look much nicer in my opinion than the 72 spoke wheels, which seem to crowded for my taste (I think the 48 spoke wheels look nicest, but compromised for the added strength). I feel the additional strength of the 72 spoke wheel is overkill and unless you are really driving the blazes out of it or have way-oversized tires mounted, are unnecessary. My wheels are shod with correctly-sized Vredestein Sprints. The ride and handling is perfect. My car is a well-maintained driver, not concours, and has always been maintained as an original car. That's my two cents, but as Skip said, it?s a personal choice. > Best, Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders > Sent: January-04-20 12:40 AM > To: 'Bruce Peters'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) > -skip- > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 4 09:50:11 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 08:50:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> Message-ID: Hmmmmm.? To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 09:53:44 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 11:53:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Hi again Charlie, In your original request you said that the tie rod ends were the originals for your BN1. I have checked an NOS BN2 tie rod end and when I measure the 7/16" thread it is 0.433" (10.98 mm) diameter and the thread is exactly 20 T.P.I. This is a U.N.F. thread. A used early BN1 tie rod end thread is 0.435" (11.49 mm) in diameter and and the thread is exactly 18 T.P.I. This is a B.S.F. thread. The original tie rod ends on earlier BN1's were an adjustable type wherein a split pin could be removed and the slotted cap rotated for adjustment. After car C.# 157624 the tie rod ends were still B.S.F. but changed to a non-adjustable type wherein the threaded cap was locked by swaging and was not designed to be adjusted. If the tie rod ends that you are dealing with are unlike either of these then they are almost certainly not "original". If your thread count is 15 T.P.I. it is obviously neither of those and those tie rod ends probably fall into the "cheapo repo" category and the thread could be anything that the manufacturer could find. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:52 AM Charles Schott wrote: > The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage and > it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way down the > threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way through the > slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. The diameter > measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not been able to find > a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have three of them but need > three more. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Harold Manifold" > *To: *"Charles Schott" , "Michael Salter" < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> > *Cc: *"Healeys" > *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > Charles, > > What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the > ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Charles > Schott > *Sent:* Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM > *To:* Michael Salter > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and > none of them come close. > > The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. > When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You > tell me what I have. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Michael Salter" > *To: *"Charles Schott" > *Cc: *"Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" < > healeys at autox.team.net> > *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > Charlie, > If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original > side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, > (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have > been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 > 7/16" UNF. > > M > > > > > On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott wrote: > >> I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They >> appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them >> or know where I can get them? Thanks. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jan 4 10:19:52 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 18:19:52 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1c4d31a5-9829-cfed-338e-0136035a2dbe@chello.nl> M11 is not a standard metric size. Extremely unlikely you will ever come across this thread anywhere. Standard is either M10x1,5 or M12x1,75. 15TPI gives 1,69 mm per thread so the M12 die could loosely fit the stud. M11x1,0 or M11x1,5 is very rarely used as a repair thread when an M12 stud/bolt or an M10 tap hole or nut is damaged and cannot be replaced or the thread is used in a very specific construction where bolts/nuts are calculated to the limit or other engineering purposes. What you have is probably one of the many 7/16" diameter British or Unified threads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 4-1-2020 om 16:52 schreef Charles Schott: > The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage > and it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way > down the threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way > through the slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. > The diameter measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not > been able to find a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have > three of them but need three more. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Harold Manifold" > *To: *"Charles Schott" , "Michael Salter" > > *Cc: *"Healeys" > *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > Charles, > What is the thread per inch?count and the major thread diameter of the > ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Charles Schott > *Sent:* Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM > *To:* Michael Salter > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and > none of them come close. > > The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. > When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 > mm. You tell me what I have. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Michael Salter" > *To: *"Charles Schott" > *Cc: *"Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" > > *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts > > Charlie, > If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the > original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think > is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check)? however many of > these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the > years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. > > M > > > > > On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott > wrote: > > I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. > They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does > anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jan 4 10:20:24 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 17:20:24 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> Message-ID: <000a01d5c323$42c36130$c84a2390$@alexarevel.plus.com> I had a 48 spoker collapse on me with my first 3000. I was at Trinity in Dublin. I was younger and even more foolish then (+/-21*) and there were, seemingly at least, no rules relating to traffic in general and foreign-registered cars in particular. So, yes, I was probably driving like an idiot. But having fun. It collapsed fairly gently as I recall, so no great harm was done. Main issue was getting the thing fixed as there were no spokes in Ireland and the import duty was ridiculous. My current car had 48 which I swapped over to chrome Dunlop 60s which, touch wood, have done me well for about 15 years. *long time ago! Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: 04 January 2020 15:55 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Bruce, here is my input: I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hi all, I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? 3. Tire Brand? 4. Tire Size? I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! Thanks everyone! Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 10:22:38 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 12:22:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charlie, Further to my previous post I may have more information. I have come across, in my "DO NOT USE" box a "cheapo repo" Healey side rod sold by A H Spares under STG215 and Moss Motors under 667-550. (Don't get me started !) This part has weird threads on the rod ends. They are 11.96 mm in diameter and appear to be 1.5 mm pitch. That's a 12mm fine thread. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:53 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Hi again Charlie, > In your original request you said that the tie rod ends were the originals > for your BN1. > I have checked an NOS BN2 tie rod end and when I measure the 7/16" thread > it is 0.433" (10.98 mm) diameter and the thread is exactly 20 T.P.I. This > is a U.N.F. thread. > A used early BN1 tie rod end thread is 0.435" (11.49 mm) in diameter and > and the thread is exactly 18 T.P.I. This is a B.S.F. thread. > The original tie rod ends on earlier BN1's were an adjustable type wherein > a split pin could be removed and the slotted cap rotated for adjustment. > After car C.# 157624 the tie rod ends were still B.S.F. but changed to a > non-adjustable type wherein the threaded cap was locked by swaging and was > not designed to be adjusted. > If the tie rod ends that you are dealing with are unlike either of these > then they are almost certainly not "original". > If your thread count is 15 T.P.I. it is obviously neither of those and > those tie rod ends probably fall into the "cheapo repo" category and the > thread could be anything that the manufacturer could find. > > M > > > > On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:52 AM Charles Schott > wrote: > >> The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage and >> it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way down the >> threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way through the >> slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. The diameter >> measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not been able to find >> a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have three of them but need >> three more. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From: *"Harold Manifold" >> *To: *"Charles Schott" , "Michael Salter" < >> michaelsalter at gmail.com> >> *Cc: *"Healeys" >> *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM >> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts >> >> Charles, >> >> What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the >> ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Charles >> Schott >> *Sent:* Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM >> *To:* Michael Salter >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts >> >> My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and >> none of them come close. >> >> The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. >> When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You >> tell me what I have. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From: *"Michael Salter" >> *To: *"Charles Schott" >> *Cc: *"Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" < >> healeys at autox.team.net> >> *Sent: *Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM >> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts >> >> Charlie, >> If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original >> side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, >> (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have >> been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 >> 7/16" UNF. >> >> M >> >> >> >> >> On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott >> wrote: >> >>> I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They >>> appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them >>> or know where I can get them? Thanks. >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> Charlie >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jan 4 10:28:50 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 12:28:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> Message-ID: <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 4 10:41:15 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 09:41:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> Message-ID: <99db5f94-d52e-122d-cfca-de1faaf9887c@comcast.net> If you're comfortable driving even a short distance on a deficient wheel, fine by me.? I'm not.? And shipping a broken wheel from, say, Lillocet, Canada--yes, I've driven there--to Allen Hendrix, and waiting for its return, is not appealing to me in the slightest (nothing against Lillocet).? I'm glad I didn't have tire/wheel issues when driving through Mexico. I don't know how much a wheel is compromised by even one broken spoke--I didn't do well enough in integral calculus to calculate it--but it would be more significant on a 60-spoker than a 72. On 1/4/2020 9:28 AM, Max Byers wrote: > "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a > contradiction in terms. > > > On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: >> Bruce, here is my input: >> >> I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. >> >> It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. >> >> I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. >> >> Steve Byers >> HBJ8L/36666 >> BJ8 Registry >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> Havelock, NC USA >> >> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mexico federalis.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 61087 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 11:06:18 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:06:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. Bruce Sent from my iPad > On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. > > As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders > Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM > To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) > -skip- > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jan 4 11:13:05 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 13:13:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <99db5f94-d52e-122d-cfca-de1faaf9887c@comcast.net> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <99db5f94-d52e-122d-cfca-de1faaf9887c@comcast.net> Message-ID: <034b01d5c32a$9ca8ab40$d5fa01c0$@rr.com> I'm comfortable that a wheel is not going to collapse with a couple broken spokes, especially as my experience with more than one broken spoke at a time has been vibration from the wheel. When I investigated the tires and wheels and found the damage, I installed the spare. Some of those single broken spokes were found while washing the wheels, and could have been there for some time. The last occasion I recall was during my return home to North Carolina from Conclave in San Diego in 2008. About 50 miles out from home I began to feel a vibration and my traveling companion saw that it was the right rear wheel "bouncing" slightly. It had two broken spokes. Whether the first spoke broke two miles from San Diego or shortly before the vibration, I don't know, but there was a signal that there was something wrong. If one is not sensitive to the signals and keeps driving, sure, it's possible a wheel could collapse and 72 spokers would give some additional margin; but the cost and diminished visual esthetics of 72 spokes, to me, do not justify more spokes. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires If you're comfortable driving even a short distance on a deficient wheel, fine by me. I'm not. And shipping a broken wheel from, say, Lillocet, Canada--yes, I've driven there--to Allen Hendrix, and waiting for its return, is not appealing to me in the slightest (nothing against Lillocet). I'm glad I didn't have tire/wheel issues when driving through Mexico. I don't know how much a wheel is compromised by even one broken spoke--I didn't do well enough in integral calculus to calculate it--but it would be more significant on a 60-spoker than a 72. From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 4 11:17:58 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 10:17:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <348333319.5139760.1572546437513@mail.yahoo.com> <558860367.4707207.1578085752184.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charles, It looks like you have a Unicorn. I checked a machinery handbook and these were the closest I could find which you probably already know: 7/16" x 14 TPI UNC American National Standard 11mm x 1.50 International Metric 7/16" x 14 TPI British Standard Whitworth We can eliminate British Standard Fine as the diameter is too small to match a pitch between 14 and 16. As Michael has suggested it may be a poor quality reproduction trying to match one of these sizes. My machinery books list 7 different thread types and the three above are the closest match. I will suggest finding a castellated nut to fit will be like finding an Albino Unicorn. It may be time for new tie rods.... Harold _____ From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 9:23 AM To: Charles Schott Cc: Harold Manifold; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, Further to my previous post I may have more information. I have come across, in my "DO NOT USE" box a "cheapo repo" Healey side rod sold by A H Spares under STG215 and Moss Motors under 667-550. (Don't get me started !) This part has weird threads on the rod ends. They are 11.96 mm in diameter and appear to be 1.5 mm pitch. That's a 12mm fine thread. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:53 AM Michael Salter wrote: Hi again Charlie, In your original request you said that the tie rod ends were the originals for your BN1. I have checked an NOS BN2 tie rod end and when I measure the 7/16" thread it is 0.433" (10.98 mm) diameter and the thread is exactly 20 T.P.I. This is a U.N.F. thread. A used early BN1 tie rod end thread is 0.435" (11.49 mm) in diameter and and the thread is exactly 18 T.P.I. This is a B.S.F. thread. The original tie rod ends on earlier BN1's were an adjustable type wherein a split pin could be removed and the slotted cap rotated for adjustment. After car C.# 157624 the tie rod ends were still B.S.F. but changed to a non-adjustable type wherein the threaded cap was locked by swaging and was not designed to be adjusted. If the tie rod ends that you are dealing with are unlike either of these then they are almost certainly not "original". If your thread count is 15 T.P.I. it is obviously neither of those and those tie rod ends probably fall into the "cheapo repo" category and the thread could be anything that the manufacturer could find. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:52 AM Charles Schott wrote: The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage and it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way down the threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way through the slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. The diameter measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not been able to find a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have three of them but need three more. Regards, Charlie _____ From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Charles Schott" , "Michael Salter" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charles, What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charles Schott Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and none of them come close. The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You tell me what I have. Regards, Charlie _____ From: "Michael Salter" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Michael MacLean" , "Healeys" Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott wrote: I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Jan 4 12:15:47 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 19:15:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com>, Message-ID: Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" wrote: > Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of skip saunders >> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) >> -skip- >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters >> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 12:37:13 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 14:37:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: Bruce-- As you have already seen you'll get a lot of different opinions--few of them are "wrong", simply personal. For me I think 72's look very busy, esp. on non-convertible cars. I have had a set of 60 spoke chrome Daytons on my car for almost 20 years and other than having them periodically trued as need be when changing tires they have been trouble-free. As to tires, esthetically I like them to be (relatively) tall and narrow and the MICHELIN 180 R-15 not only fills that bill but also gives great handling in both wet and dry. Whatever you do, deal with reputable sources such as Hendrix Wire Wheel. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 12:26 AM Bruce Peters wrote: > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When > I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not > be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a > driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m > wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put > chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best > combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal > preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 4 12:39:58 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 11:39:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com>, Message-ID: <64E19CC444DE4EC7A60FDD8D91CC171E@AllInOne> Bruce, I will suggest selecting the rim width is important. All tires have a recommended rim width range and they will perform as expected when mounted on the right size rim. From my perspective the best rim width is 5.5" as this will allow tires from 165 HR 15 to 205/70 VR 15. Michelin has a very good site to check that rim width and tire size. With a 5.5" rim width you will have the greatest number of tire options. The number of spokes is a different question other than BMC went away from the 48 spoke rim as they were just not robust enough for what a Healey could do. Regards... Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 11:16 AM To: Bruce Peters Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" wrote: > Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere that I've seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> skip saunders >> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) >> -skip- >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bruce Peters >> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> Hi all, >> I'm getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my '67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It'll be a driver that won't see any track time of any sort. That being said I'm wondering what everyone's thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don't want Minilite's. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size-15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I'm not a bargain basement shopper so I'm willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there's a lot of personal preference so I hope I'm not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner. >> com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 12:59:27 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 11:59:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <000a01d5c323$42c36130$c84a2390$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <000a01d5c323$42c36130$c84a2390$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Many years ago I was offered a swap of my 48 spoke wire wherls for a disc wheel, disc break setup. Took a ny minute to say yes. I now have minilites on my car and they look great. I drive it hard in my youth along Mulholland Drive and the Santa Monica Mountains. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 9:27 AM wrote: > I had a 48 spoker collapse on me with my first 3000. I was at Trinity in > Dublin. I was younger and even more foolish then (+/-21*) and there were, > seemingly at least, no rules relating to traffic in general and > foreign-registered cars in particular. So, yes, I was probably driving like > an idiot. But having fun. > It collapsed fairly gently as I recall, so no great harm was done. Main > issue was getting the thing fixed as there were no spokes in Ireland and > the import duty was ridiculous. > My current car had 48 which I swapped over to chrome Dunlop 60s which, > touch wood, have done me well for about 15 years. > *long time ago! > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Max Byers > Sent: 04 January 2020 15:55 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke > 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel > in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've > had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively > close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need > replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels > are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with > the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which > brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one > point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not > available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with > 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good > tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce > Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When > I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not > be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a > driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m > wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put > chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best > combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal > preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190527_173816.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3290046 bytes Desc: not available URL: From schottc at knology.net Sat Jan 4 15:48:40 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 17:48:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <348333319.5139760.1572546437513.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <472468031.4760045.1578094542769.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <46682972.5094380.1578153159707.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <312297687.5220308.1578178120808.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Harold, Thanks for the info and you are probably right that I will have to get new ones. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Michael Salter" , "Charles Schott" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:17:58 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charles, It looks like you have a Unicorn. I checked a machinery handbook and these were the closest I could find which you probably already know: 7/16" x 14 TPI UNC American National Standard 11mm x 1.50 International Metric 7/16" x 14 TPI British Standard Whitworth We can eliminate British Standard Fine as the diameter is too small to match a pitch between 14 and 16. As Michael has suggested it may be a poor quality reproduction trying to match one of these sizes. My machinery books list 7 different thread types and the three above are the closest match. I will suggest finding a castellated nut to fit will be like finding an Albino Unicorn. It may be time for new tie rods.... Harold From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 9:23 AM To: Charles Schott Cc: Harold Manifold; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, Further to my previous post I may have more information. I have come across, in my "DO NOT USE" box a "cheapo repo" Healey side rod sold by A H Spares under STG215 and Moss Motors under 667-550. (Don't get me started !) This part has weird threads on the rod ends. They are 11.96 mm in diameter and appear to be 1.5 mm pitch. That's a 12mm fine thread. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:53 AM Michael Salter < michaelsalter at gmail.com > wrote: Hi again Charlie, In your original request you said that the tie rod ends were the originals for your BN1. I have checked an NOS BN2 tie rod end and when I measure the 7/16" thread it is 0.433" (10.98 mm) diameter and the thread is exactly 20 T.P.I. This is a U.N.F. thread. A used early BN1 tie rod end thread is 0.435" (11.49 mm) in diameter and and the thread is exactly 18 T.P.I. This is a B.S.F. thread. The original tie rod ends on earlier BN1's were an adjustable type wherein a split pin could be removed and the slotted cap rotated for adjustment. After car C.# 157624 the tie rod ends were still B.S.F. but changed to a non-adjustable type wherein the threaded cap was locked by swaging and was not designed to be adjusted. If the tie rod ends that you are dealing with are unlike either of these then they are almost certainly not "original". If your thread count is 15 T.P.I. it is obviously neither of those and those tie rod ends probably fall into the "cheapo repo" category and the thread could be anything that the manufacturer could find. M On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:52 AM Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote:
The thread count appears to be 15 TPI. I have a 14 and a 16 TPI gage and it's between those two. Since a 12M X 1.5 die runs all the way down the threads, albeit loosely, and a 10M X 1.5 tap goes all the way through the slotted nut, again very loose, I think that it's metric. The diameter measures 10.97 MM with calipers and converted. I have not been able to find a 11M X 1.5 nut, let alone a slotted one. I have three of them but need three more. Regards, Charlie From: "Harold Manifold" < manifold at telus.net > To: "Charles Schott" < schottc at knology.net >, "Michael Salter" < michaelsalter at gmail.com > Cc: "Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 6:27:29 PM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charles, What is the thread per inch count and the major thread diameter of the ball joint (measure with a vernier or micrometer)? From: Healeys [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Charles Schott Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 3:36 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts My car is CE# 226706 and I have a limited set of BSF taps and dies and none of them come close. The 12M X 1.5 die goes loosely all the way down over the stud threads. When I measure the diameter of the stud threads, they measure 10.97 mm. You tell me what I have. Regards, Charlie From: "Michael Salter" < michaelsalter at gmail.com > To: "Charles Schott" < schottc at knology.net > Cc: "Michael MacLean" < rrengineer.mike at att.net >, "Healeys" < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, January 3, 2020 3:32:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tie Rod End Slotted Nuts Charlie, If your car is prior to C.E.#228931 the castellated nuts for the original side and center rod ends will be part #2K3996 which I think is 7/16" BSF, (I don't have one to hand to check) however many of these ball joints have been replaced with the later UNF style over the years and they use FNZ307 7/16" UNF. M On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 4:09 PM Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote:
I need three slotted nuts for the original tie rod ends on a BN1. They appear to be metric 11M X 1.5 but I cannot find them. Does anyone have them or know where I can get them? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
-------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 19:24:14 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2020 18:24:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> Message-ID: I also have the Michelin 180/15 XAS tires. These are 80 series tires. They look right because they fill the wheel wells. But even better ........ they give you a bit more ground clearance. That was very noticeable as I drove around this last summer. There were many times when I expected to heard that usual scraping sound but did not. It was a very pleasant surprise - again and again. On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:37 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > Bruce-- > > As you have already seen you'll get a lot of different opinions--few of > them are "wrong", simply personal. > > For me I think 72's look very busy, esp. on non-convertible cars. I have > had a set of 60 spoke chrome Daytons on my car for almost 20 years and > other than having them periodically trued as need be when changing tires > they have been trouble-free. > > As to tires, esthetically I like them to be (relatively) tall and narrow > and the MICHELIN 180 > R-15 not only fills that bill but also gives great handling in both wet > and dry. > > Whatever you do, deal with reputable sources such as Hendrix Wire Wheel. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 12:26 AM Bruce Peters wrote: > >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When >> I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not >> be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a >> driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m >> wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put >> chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best >> combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal >> preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Jan 5 08:05:19 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 10:05:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> Message-ID: <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 5 08:50:05 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 07:50:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com>, Message-ID: <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com> The bolt on mounting plates do not have a splined center hub. The wheel interfaces with the tooted rim of the backing plate, as shown below. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:ynotink at msn.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 11:16 AM To: Bruce Peters Cc: Bruce Steele ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" < rv9aplane at gmail.com> wrote: > Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele < healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote: >> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> skip saunders >> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: 'Bruce Peters' < rv9aplane at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) >> -skip- >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bruce Peters >> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner. >> com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120978 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Jan 5 11:00:08 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 18:00:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com> References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> Tooted?? That is a whee I am not familiar with.? :) -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' ; 'Bruce Peters' Cc: healeys Sent: Sun, Jan 5, 2020 10:51 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires #yiv5135886432 #yiv5135886432 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv5135886432 #yiv5135886432 p.yiv5135886432MsoNormal, #yiv5135886432 li.yiv5135886432MsoNormal, #yiv5135886432 div.yiv5135886432MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv5135886432 a:link, #yiv5135886432 span.yiv5135886432MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5135886432 a:visited, #yiv5135886432 span.yiv5135886432MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5135886432 p.yiv5135886432MsoPlainText, #yiv5135886432 li.yiv5135886432MsoPlainText, #yiv5135886432 div.yiv5135886432MsoPlainText {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv5135886432 span.yiv5135886432PlainTextChar {font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv5135886432 .yiv5135886432MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {} #yiv5135886432 div.yiv5135886432WordSection1 {} #yiv5135886432 The bolt on mounting plates do not have a splined center hub.? The wheel interfaces with the tooted rim of the backing plate, as shown below. ? ? ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ? ?-----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:ynotink at msn.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 11:16 AM To: Bruce Peters Cc: Bruce Steele ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires ?Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. ?Bill LawrenceBN1 #554 ?Sent from my iPad ?On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" wrote: ?> Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone.> > Bruce> > Sent from my iPad> >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote:>> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs.? These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies.? When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel.? Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites.? >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15.? Very happy with them.? They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same.? >> >> Bruce Steele>> Brea, CA>> 1960 BN7>> >> >> -----Original Message----->> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> skip saunders>> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM>> To: 'Bruce Peters' ; healeys at autox.team.net>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires>> >> It is a personal choice IMHO.?? I have both chrome spokes and minilites.? Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do:? drive on 60 spoke wheels.?? Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed.? Use 72 spokes at least.?? The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged.?? (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-)? )>> -skip->> >> -----Original Message----->> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bruce Peters>> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM>> To: healeys at autox.team.net>> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires>> >> Hi all,>> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions:>> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)?>> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke?>> 3. Tire Brand?>> 4. Tire Size?>> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone!>> Bruce>> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad>> _______________________________________________>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation? $12.75>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com>> >> >> _______________________________________________>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation? $12.75>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive>> >> Healeys at autox.team.net>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.>> com>> >> > _______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation? $12.75> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive> > Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120978 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Jan 5 12:25:52 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 19:25:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com>, <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hm! Interesting variation. Maybe the word was fluted or tooled. But no, I don't think these are what are being referred to in this string. I think some manufacturers used what was called a pin drive that used dowels to transmit the torque and thus didn't need splines, but I think those are a very special item. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Keith Pennell Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2020 6:00 PM To: healeybruce at roadrunner.com ; ynotink at msn.com ; rv9aplane at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Tooted? That is a whee I am not familiar with. :) -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' ; 'Bruce Peters' Cc: healeys Sent: Sun, Jan 5, 2020 10:51 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires The bolt on mounting plates do not have a splined center hub. The wheel interfaces with the tooted rim of the backing plate, as shown below. [Image result for dayton wire wheel mounting plates] [Image result for dayton wire wheel inner hub] Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:ynotink at msn.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 11:16 AM To: Bruce Peters Cc: Bruce Steele ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" > wrote: > Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele > wrote: >> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> skip saunders >> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: 'Bruce Peters' >; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) >> -skip- >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bruce Peters >> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner. >> com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120978 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42962 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 13:53:03 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 15:53:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels / Tires Message-ID: The photo from Bruce ?ID?s the adapter and wheel as Dayton?s. The adapter shown is an older version of what Dayton now calls the OTD.? These have been around a long time and hot rodders have used them for decades.? What some used to call cog drive. The older cog drive wire wheels were a bit crude in appearance but very strong and the cog takes the torque better than a spline drive wheel. I have a set of the older wheels on the back of a 100-Six in the garage.? I?ll send a couple photos of wheel and adapters from my phone for comparison. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 13:50:11 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 15:50:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/tires References: <2553CD69-3571-40B3-B790-922CBDE33A69.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <2553CD69-3571-40B3-B790-922CBDE33A69@aol.com> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5835.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 125861 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5834.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 134456 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5833.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 119733 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Notice difference in the diameter Sent from my iPhone From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Jan 5 14:53:12 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 16:53:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Mirek-- In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes. Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking. FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: > I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even > realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my > Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right > where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really > has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or > screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It > is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less > mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. > I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on > the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a > complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When > still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel > had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). > No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max > Byers > Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many > people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, > Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix > was truing and balancing my wheels. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a > contradiction in terms. > > > On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > > Bruce, here is my input: > > > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke > 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel > in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've > had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively > close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need > replacement spokes or new tires. > > > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels > are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with > the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to > which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At > one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not > available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with > 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good > tire. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC USA > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Bruce Peters > > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > > > Hi all, > > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. > When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will > not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be > a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m > wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put > chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > > 3. Tire Brand? > > 4. Tire Size? > > > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best > combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal > preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > > > Thanks everyone! > > Bruce > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 5 15:17:03 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 14:17:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <002401d5c415$dc6ee4b0$954cae10$@sbcglobal.net> Chrome plating can cause hydrogen embrittlement, however, it is a known issue and heat treatment will reverse it if the metal has not cracked. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2020 1:53 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Mirek-- In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes. Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking. FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp > wrote: I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autoxteam.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 5 15:17:03 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 14:17:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <002401d5c415$dc6ee4b0$954cae10$@sbcglobal.net> Chrome plating can cause hydrogen embrittlement, however, it is a known issue and heat treatment will reverse it if the metal has not cracked. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2020 1:53 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Mirek-- In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes. Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking. FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp > wrote: I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autoxteam.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Sun Jan 5 15:22:41 2020 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 17:22:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Toy Factory 100 Model References: <455C10E4-09EF-4BD3-B239-B297C355615E.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <455C10E4-09EF-4BD3-B239-B297C355615E@aol.com> Nearly 18 yrs ago Charles Matthews and John Shinton of the UK produced a 1:8 scale model of a hundred. This is probably the most detailed and sort after model on the market with few coming to auction over the last year. The limited production was produced as 50 BN1,50 BN2,50 100M, and 52 100S. It was pricey in its day and recent sales show them at 5 times initial cost. Options were available such as Lucas lights , mirror, and leather piping contrast was available as well as others. Curious to know if any one on list has one and if it known how many were actually produced by model and or total produced. They were only done by order. If you prefer you can respond off list as this may not be of interest to some on list. Pictures would be great if you have one. I have reached out to Charles/John as well. Ken Sent from my iPhone From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 15:33:08 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 17:33:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers Message-ID: Listers In my effort to find a couple parts for another lister I came across a pair of steering lever arms, left side and right side. These are the arms that connect the steering side rods to the stub axle assembly. The part numbers are 1B 6164 and 1B 6165. I could not find a reference to those number in my stuff. Anyone have any info on these numbers? Thank in advance. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 5 15:41:56 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 17:41:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers In-Reply-To: <20200105223515.CED1DA0C10@autox.team.net> References: <20200105223515.CED1DA0C10@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I've come across those before as well Perry. I'm pretty sure that they are alternates for 1B4312 and 1B4311 M On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 5:35 PM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Listers > > In my effort to find a couple parts for another lister I came across a > pair of steering lever arms, left side and right side. These are the arms > that connect the steering side rods to the stub axle assembly. The part > numbers are 1*B *6164 and 1*B *6165. I could not find a reference to > those number in my stuff. > > Anyone have any info on these numbers? Thank in advance. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 15:56:51 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 17:56:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <20200105223515.CED1DA0C10@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Mahalo Michael? P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter I've come across those before as well Perry. I'm pretty sure that they are alternates for 1B4312 and 1B4311 M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 15:56:51 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 17:56:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <20200105223515.CED1DA0C10@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Mahalo Michael? P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter I've come across those before as well Perry. I'm pretty sure that they are alternates for 1B4312 and 1B4311 M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 16:07:52 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 18:07:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers References: <20200105223515.CED1DA0C10@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Sorry. For future reference on BN1 cars; Steering lever arm, left side: Part No 1B4311 or alternate 1B6164 Steering lever arm, right side: Part No 1B4312 or alternate 1B6165 For BN2 and later Steering lever arm, left side: Part No 1B4476 Steering lever arm, left side: Part No 1B4475 P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Perry Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2020 5:56 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering Lever Part Numbers Mahalo Michael? P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter I've come across those before as well Perry. I'm pretty sure that they are alternates for 1B4312 and 1B4311 M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Jan 5 16:14:41 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:14:41 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <00a401d5c41d$e982d960$bc888c20$@tpg.com.au> Hello Just three weeks back the BN3 was still on jack stands. It's been fitted with steel wheels from new and some months back I had them blasted and repainted, but no tyres. With the fires approaching I had to make a quick decision to fit tyres so the car could be moved. The Healey Duncan is fitted with Hankook 185/80R15 tyres which are fine on that, but I think are too wide on the early Austin-Healeys so I fitted a set of 165/80R15 that fill out the wheel arch quite well. I had a choice of asymmetrical or symmetrical and went with the latter as it looks better and more period. Hankook tyres are made in Korea and for the speed and distance our cars are doing these days they are just fine. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mirek Sharp Sent: Monday, 6 January 2020 2:05 AM To: 'Max Byers'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Jan 5 22:02:32 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 00:02:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <00f501d5c44e$813c6610$83b53230$@sympatico.ca> Thanks Michael, I have wondered about the metallurgy around chroming wheels, but have never heard it from an engineer. I have heard that opinion about the gold plated wheels on the Earls Court show car, but again, I think it was more speculation than informed opinion from an engineer. It?s a moot point for me as I prefer the painted wheels. Cheers, Mirek From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] Sent: January-05-20 4:53 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Max Byers; Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Mirek-- In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes. Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking. FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 5 22:25:33 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 21:25:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com> <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <289201d5c451$ba279910$2e76cb30$@roadrunner.com> Sorry, meant ?toothed!? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Keith Pennell [mailto:llennep at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2020 10:00 AM To: healeybruce at roadrunner.com; ynotink at msn.com; rv9aplane at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Tooted? That is a whee I am not familiar with. :) -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele > To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' >; 'Bruce Peters' > Cc: healeys > Sent: Sun, Jan 5, 2020 10:51 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires The bolt on mounting plates do not have a splined center hub. The wheel interfaces with the tooted rim of the backing plate, as shown below. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:ynotink at msn.com] Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2020 11:16 AM To: Bruce Peters > Cc: Bruce Steele >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Please define "non-splined". I believe all the wheels we have been discussing are standard center lock style. They are definitely splined. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2020, at 11:06, "Bruce Peters" < rv9aplane at gmail.com> wrote: > Are all the current wire wheels on offer from the various suppliers non-splined? It doesn?t seem to be mentioned anywhere that I?ve seen. > > Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 3, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Bruce Steele < healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote: >> >> ?I have Dayton 5" 72-spoke chrome wire wheels on disk wheel hubs. These Daytons are not splined, but use a toothed backing plate that bolts to the rotor/hub and drum/hub assemblies. When I purchased it from the PO, it had been sitting for 6 years and the wheels were perfectly true, so they are very robust and they look great, though beefier than the standard Dunlop wire wheel. Given that the car was originally a disk wheel car, if I ever have to replace the wires, I would seriously consider Minilites. >> >> As for tires, I run Vredestein Sprint Classic, 165/15. Very happy with them. They are getting close to the end of their age cycle, and I plan to replace with the same. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> skip saunders >> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2020 9:40 PM >> To: 'Bruce Peters' < rv9aplane at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> It is a personal choice IMHO. I have both chrome spokes and minilites. Depending on mood and distance/road quality, I mount the appropriate wheels/tires.... If I'm going to be on cobblestones, or rough roads, I use the minilites, if I'm driving around town, I use the Chromes.... However one thing I NEVER do: drive on 60 spoke wheels. Modern tires grip the road too well, and the spokes get destroyed. Use 72 spokes at least. The ONLY time I'd select 60 spokes (and I have them too) would be if I had a concourse car and it was being shown/judged. (I don't have a concourse car, I just have a set of original wheels...and the tires are way past their expiration date, I'd never drive around the block on them...lol.).... But, as I said at the outset: it is a personal choice (YMMV... :-) ) >> -skip- >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bruce Peters >> Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires >> >> Hi all, >> I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: >> >> 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? >> 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? >> 3. Tire Brand? >> 4. Tire Size? >> >> I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! >> >> Thanks everyone! >> Bruce >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner. >> com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120978 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 6 06:58:28 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 08:58:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00f501d5c44e$813c6610$83b53230$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <045901d5c499$5fd4ce40$1f7e6ac0$@rr.com> I am not a metallurgist, but I am a retired aircraft structural engineer and I played one at work for 30 years. What was stated about hydrogen embrittlement of high-strength steel during chrome plating is true. The effects are mitigated by proper heat treatment after plating. Although I haven?t done any analysis of broken spokes, my empirical experience with stainless spokes has been that one broken spoke has no detectible reduction in the performance of the wheel, but more than one can produce vibration if they happen to be close to each other. One broken spoke will result in additional loading of adjacent spokes, eventually resulting in their failure . The vibration is most likely from the deformation of the wheel in the absence of the spokes. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, January 6, 2020 8:02 AM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Max Byers; Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires I am not an engineer but I did play one when I was a kid with a Lionel train set. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 13:49:04 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 15:49:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com>, <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The photo from Bruce ID?s the adapter and wheel as Dayton?s. The adapter shown is an older version of what Dayton now calls the OTD. These have been around a long time and hot rodders have used them for decades. What some used to call cog drive. The older cog drive wire wheels were a bit crude in appearance but very strong and the cog takes the torque better than a spline drive wheel. I have a set of the older wheels on the back of a 100-Six in the garage. I?ll send a couple photos of wheel and adapters from my phone for comparison. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jan 5 13:49:04 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 15:49:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com>, <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The photo from Bruce ID?s the adapter and wheel as Dayton?s. The adapter shown is an older version of what Dayton now calls the OTD. These have been around a long time and hot rodders have used them for decades. What some used to call cog drive. The older cog drive wire wheels were a bit crude in appearance but very strong and the cog takes the torque better than a spline drive wheel. I have a set of the older wheels on the back of a 100-Six in the garage. I?ll send a couple photos of wheel and adapters from my phone for comparison. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 5 22:31:38 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2020 21:31:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <20200105204908.GVHN16311.cdptpa-fep16.email.rr.com@dnvrco-cmimta25> References: <1c8101d5c2c3$62cef800$286ce800$@roadrunner.com> <1fa301d5c3df$ce9bfbb0$6bd3f310$@roadrunner.com>, <100579565.6956210.1578247208148@mail.yahoo.com> <20200105204908.GVHN16311.cdptpa-fep16.email.rr.com@dnvrco-cmimta25> Message-ID: <28a901d5c452$93b25d00$bb171700$@roadrunner.com> I?d not heard the term ?cog drive? before, but it is certainly apropos. I have found them to be very robust. The only downside is cleaning 72 spokes is a pain. That said, SlickStix make the job much easier and faster. https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Tool-Sticks/dp/B00319SEQO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Slick+Stixx &qid=1578288579&sr=8-2 Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Perry [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2020 12:49 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Keith Pennell ; healeybruce at roadrunner.com; rv9aplane at gmail.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires The photo from Bruce ID?s the adapter and wheel as Dayton?s. The adapter shown is an older version of what Dayton now calls the OTD. These have been around a long time and hot rodders have used them for decades. What some used to call cog drive. The older cog drive wire wheels were a bit crude in appearance but very strong and the cog takes the torque better than a spline drive wheel. I have a set of the older wheels on the back of a 100-Six in the garage. I?ll send a couple photos of wheel and adapters from my phone for comparison. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 14769 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 6 06:01:34 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 08:01:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: <00f501d5c44e$813c6610$83b53230$@sympatico.ca> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00f501d5c44e$813c6610$83b53230$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I am not an engineer but I did play one when I was a kid with a Lionel train set. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 6, 2020, 12:02 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: > Thanks Michael, > > > > I have wondered about the metallurgy around chroming wheels, but have > never heard it from an engineer. I have heard that opinion about the gold > plated wheels on the Earls Court show car, but again, I think it was more > speculation than informed opinion from an engineer. It?s a moot point for > me as I prefer the painted wheels. > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > > > *From:* Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] > *Sent:* January-05-20 4:53 PM > *To:* Mirek Sharp > *Cc:* Max Byers; Austin Healey > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > > > Mirek-- > > > > In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total > wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire > wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes > I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes. Things > never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken > spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the > tube I also replaced the spoke. > > > > As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that > chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled > the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking. FWIW I have never > broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my > present car. > > > > On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp > wrote: > > I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even > realize it. I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my > Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right > where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed. One really > has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or > screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change. It > is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less > mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two. > I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on > the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving. Does anyone know of a > complete wheel failure from normal driving? I have seen only one. When > still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel > had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop). > No idea how it happened. Cheers, Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max > Byers > Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think. How many > people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, > Bob? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix > was truing and balancing my wheels. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hmmmmm. To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a > contradiction in terms. > > > On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > > Bruce, here is my input: > > > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels. I bought five 60-spoke > 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel > in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now. I've > had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively > close to Allen Hendrix. He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need > replacement spokes or new tires. > > > > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels > are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance. My experience with > the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference. As to > which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel. At > one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires. They were not > available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens. So far, with > 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good > tire. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC USA > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Bruce Peters > > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > > > Hi all, > > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. > When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will > not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be > a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m > wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put > chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > > 3. Tire Brand? > > 4. Tire Size? > > > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best > combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal > preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > > > Thanks everyone! > > Bruce > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Mon Jan 6 09:33:56 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 11:33:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Firewall Components In-Reply-To: <00a401d5c41d$e982d960$bc888c20$@tpg.com.au> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00a401d5c41d$e982d960$bc888c20$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <723370649.179061.1578328436446.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Where can I find a good picture/illustration/diagram of the placement of the components on the firewall of a 100 BN1? Thanks. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Jan 6 09:51:02 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2020 08:51:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: Firewall Components Message-ID: <9a3f9c00e5cf319b333b7208a9524b76e8db5e12@> Someone have a later BN1 production photo? -----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "Charles Schott" Cc: Sent: Monday January 6 2020 8:42:50AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Firewall Components Charlie-these are accurate for the early BN1 (1953). I did add an ammeter, but the layout did not change. On the later BN1s the OD relay (1) and the flasher can appear on the engine-side firewall (bulkhead). Regards, Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Charles Schott" To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday January 6 2020 8:34:30AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Firewall Components Where can I find a good picture/illustration/diagram of the placement of the components on the firewall of a 100 BN1? Thanks. Regards, Charlie ------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] [5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6] Healeys at autox.team.net [7]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] Unsubscribe/Manage: [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net [10] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://autox.team.net/archive [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: amp at reg.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 254671 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 09:58:30 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 16:58:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Firewall Components In-Reply-To: <723370649.179061.1578328436446.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00a401d5c41d$e982d960$bc888c20$@tpg.com.au>, <723370649.179061.1578328436446.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: I have some photos of an original one here before dismantling, will send you some photos to your email. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Charles Schott Sent: January 6, 2020 10:34 AM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Firewall Components Where can I find a good picture/illustration/diagram of the placement of the components on the firewall of a 100 BN1? Thanks. Regards, Charlie _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 3275C3A0F03D4E94866F9AD1FC9E1B58.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: 3275C3A0F03D4E94866F9AD1FC9E1B58.png URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 6 10:14:34 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 12:14:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Firewall Components In-Reply-To: <723370649.179061.1578328436446.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00a401d5c41d$e982d960$bc888c20$@tpg.com.au> <723370649.179061.1578328436446.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Hi Charlie, I would suggest getting a copy of the 2020 Concours guidelines which should be out very soon. Lots of information in there. Near the bottom of this page if you don't. https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org/ M On Mon, Jan 6, 2020, 11:34 AM Charles Schott, wrote: > Where can I find a good picture/illustration/diagram of the placement of > the components on the firewall of a 100 BN1? Thanks. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jan 6 11:14:38 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 18:14:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires In-Reply-To: References: <1D3E4367-D6D8-4F0B-A632-E8B0A5D13CA8@gmail.com> <031401d5c317$4ee37010$ecaa5030$@rr.com> <032e01d5c324$6e560db0$4b022910$@rr.com> <005e01d5c3d9$8b897a60$a29c6f20$@sympatico.ca> <00f501d5c44e$813c6610$83b53230$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <828265794.7405389.1578334478703@mail.yahoo.com> I was a railroad engineer until I retired 3 years ago.? I got to play with the big toys.Mike MacLean On Monday, January 6, 2020, 7:11:53 AM PST, Michael Oritt wrote: I am not an engineer but I did play one when I was a kid with a Lionel train set. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 6, 2020, 12:02 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: Thanks Michael, ? I have wondered about the metallurgy around chroming wheels, but have never heard it from an engineer.? I have heard that opinion about the gold plated wheels on the Earls Court show car, but again, I think it was more speculation than informed opinion from an engineer.? It?s a moot point for me as I prefer the painted wheels. ? Cheers,? Mirek ? From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] Sent: January-05-20 4:53 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Max Byers; Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires ? Mirek-- ? In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes.? Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. ? As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking.? FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. ? On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it.? I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed.? One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change.? It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two.? I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving.? Does anyone know of a complete wheel? failure from normal driving?? I have seen only one.? When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop).? No idea how it happened.? Cheers,? Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think.? How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob?? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm.? To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels.? I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now.? I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix.? He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. >? ? > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance.? My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference.? As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel.? At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires.? They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens.? So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC? USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jan 6 12:19:38 2020 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 19:19:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires References: <339668201.8959258.1578338378414.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <339668201.8959258.1578338378414@mail.yahoo.com> My grandfather was an engineer on the Wabash Railroad. The last run he had that I was aware of before he retired was between Kansas City, MO and St. Louis, MO. Got to ride his train just before he retired. Don't ask me the year I'm not sure, maybe 1962 or so. A great experience and life long memory. Larry Wendland -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Mirek Sharp ; Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Mon, Jan 6, 2020 1:17 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires I was a railroad engineer until I retired 3 years ago.? I got to play with the big toys. Mike MacLean On Monday, January 6, 2020, 7:11:53 AM PST, Michael Oritt wrote: I am not an engineer but I did play one when I was a kid with a Lionel train set. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jan 6, 2020, 12:02 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: Thanks Michael, ? I have wondered about the metallurgy around chroming wheels, but have never heard it from an engineer.? I have heard that opinion about the gold plated wheels on the Earls Court show car, but again, I think it was more speculation than informed opinion from an engineer.? It?s a moot point for me as I prefer the painted wheels. ? Cheers,? Mirek ? From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com] Sent: January-05-20 4:53 PM To: Mirek Sharp Cc: Max Byers; Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires ? Mirek-- ? In response to your question as to whether anyone has experienced total wheel failure, many years ago I had a 1960 BN7 that came with chrome wire wheels, and though I don't remember whether the wheels had 48 or 60 spokes I do know that on several occasions I experienced broken spokes.? Things never got to the point of total wheel failure because invariably the broken spoke would poke a hole in the inner tube and when I had to replace the tube I also replaced the spoke. ? As opposed to today's stainless steel spokes back then I believe that chromed wire wheels had plated spokes and the chroming process embrittled the spokes, increasing their vulnerability to breaking.? FWIW I have never broken a spoke on the 20 year old 60 spoke chromed Daytons I have had on my present car. ? On Sun, Jan 5, 2020 at 10:05 AM Mirek Sharp wrote: I have wondered how many people drive with broken spokes and do not even realize it.? I have only had experience with a few broken spokes, one on my Healey and one on my TC (both rear wheels), and both were broken right where the spoke enters the hub, and were not easily noticed.? One really has to use the time-honoured method of tapping the spokes with a spanner or screwdriver to listen to the ring, or notice them during a tyre change.? It is quite possible the many healeys, especially those owned/driven by less mechanically-minded souls, are driving around with a broken spoke or two.? I'm no engineer, but I would not be surprised if this has little effect on the overall safety of the wheel for normal driving.? Does anyone know of a complete wheel? failure from normal driving?? I have seen only one.? When still an apprentice, an E-Type was towed into the shop and one rear wheel had most of its spokes sheared off at the hub (a 72 spoke chrome Dunlop).? No idea how it happened.? Cheers,? Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: January-04-20 12:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires "A few broken spokes in 106,000 miles is pretty good, I think.? How many people besides you and me put that kind of mileage on their Healey now, Bob?? And some of those broken spokes were in the days before Allen Hendrix was truing and balancing my wheels. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 11:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires Hmmmmm.? To me 'a few broken spokes' and 'more than adequate' is a contradiction in terms. On 1/4/2020 7:54 AM, Max Byers wrote: > Bruce, here is my input: > > I do not know anything about Dunlop/Moss wheels.? I bought five 60-spoke 15x4.5 Dayton chrome wheels with stainless spokes from British Wire Wheel in 1991, and they are still on my BJ8 with 106,000 miles on them now.? I've had a few broken spokes over the years, but fortunately I am relatively close to Allen Hendrix.? He keeps them trued and balanced whenever I need replacement spokes or new tires. >? ? > It is only my personal opinion and preference, but while 72 spoke wheels are stronger, they are also have a "busier" appearance.? My experience with the 60-spokers tells me that they are more than adequate. > > I have always used 165 x 15 tires, again personal preference.? As to which brand, I use whichever tire is available to Hendrix Wire Wheel.? At one point it was Kumhos, and I really liked those tires.? They were not available at my last tire change, so I currently have Nexens.? So far, with 5 years and 10,000 miles on them they are also proving to be a very good tire. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC? USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters > Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 12:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wheels/Tires > > Hi all, > I?m getting closer to having to buy wheels and tires for my ?67 BJ8. When I say closer I mean a year or so but I like to plan ahead. My car will not be concours correct or be entered in any car judging at shows. It?ll be a driver that won?t see any track time of any sort. That being said I?m wondering what everyone?s thoughts are on wheels and tires. I plan to put chrome wire wheels on. I don?t want Minilite?s. So, here are my questions: > > 1. Dunlop style(e.g. Moss) versus Dayton(e.g. Hendrix)? > 2. Wheel size?15x4.5 60 spoke; 15x5 72 spoke; or 15x5.5 72 spoke? > 3. Tire Brand? > 4. Tire Size? > > I?m not a bargain basement shopper so I?m willing to pay for the best combinations that make sense. I realize there?s a lot of personal preference so I hope I?m not gonna start a war with these questions! > > Thanks everyone! > Bruce > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Mon Jan 6 17:59:38 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 13:59:38 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Splined hubs . . . on topic, sort of Message-ID: <000001d5c4f5$bdb33e50$3919baf0$@xtra.co.nz> This hub has been sitting on my shelf for some years. I don't recall where it came from. It is a thing of curiosity. The outer five holes fit all big Healeys perfectly. The inner five will not fit. My question to our learned group is where might this have from and on what other (sports) car might it have been used . . . and WHY? It appears to be a proprietary fitting, not the work of an after-market manufacturer or shade-tree mechanic. Any ideas? Mark Ardmore, Auckland NZ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66606 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jan 6 18:56:36 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2020 20:56:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Splined hubs . . . on topic, sort of In-Reply-To: <000001d5c4f5$bdb33e50$3919baf0$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000001d5c4f5$bdb33e50$3919baf0$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: Hi Mark and Happy New Year. That looks like a standard BN2 - BJ8 Phase 1 rear hub that someone has modified for another PCD hub. Of course you have probably already figured that out. M On Mon, Jan 6, 2020, 8:41 PM Mark Donaldson, wrote: > This hub has been sitting on my shelf for some years. I don?t recall > where it came from. It is a thing of curiosity. > > The outer five holes fit all big Healeys perfectly. The inner five will > not fit. > > My question to our learned group is where might this have from and on what > other (sports) car might it have been used . . . and WHY? > > It appears to be a proprietary fitting, not the work of an after-market > manufacturer or shade-tree mechanic. > > > > Any ideas? > > > > Mark > > Ardmore, Auckland > > NZ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66606 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66606 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 06:05:15 2020 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 08:05:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor rotor Message-ID: Listers, Who is a good source for distributor rotors. I recall from discussions that the best for our cars are the red ones. I do have a Pertronix ignition. Who makes good rotors? Fred Wescoe 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Jan 7 06:21:10 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 13:21:10 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor rotor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000b01d5c55d$552a17b0$ff7e4710$@alexarevel.plus.com> ?They? say that the Distributor Doctor has the best ones. They are indeed red. ?They? also say that the junk manufacturers have cottoned on to this and started making red ones too. Confirmed on his site:- ?I decided to make them in RED to differentiate them from the inferior black ones commonly available, and launched two sizes in the UK as a top quality, totally reliable solution in 2008. Like most good ideas, we?ve suffered from low grade pirated copies being sold very cheaply, so BEWARE CHEAP COPIES OF MY RED ROTOR ARMS. I'VE EVEN SEEN THEM POPPING UP IN GREEN LUCAS BOXES RECENTLY. As of late Spring 2012 all my genuine red rotors will bear the DD marking. We will gladly advise customers of Bona Fide sources to eradicate this problem quickly and positively. We now have 6 part numbers available in the RED ROTOR ARMS range, which cover virtually every Lucas distributor from the mid 1930?s onwards. ? I guess you?re in the US and I guess there are reputable dealers from whom you can request a red DD rotor. Certainly, some of the dud rotors were awful & still are for all I know. Good luck Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: 07 January 2020 13:05 To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Distributor rotor Listers, Who is a good source for distributor rotors. I recall from discussions that the best for our cars are the red ones. I do have a Pertronix ignition. Who makes good rotors? Fred Wescoe 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 06:31:41 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 08:31:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor rotor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Contact Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 8:07 AM Fred Wescoe wrote: > Listers, > > Who is a good source for distributor rotors. I recall from discussions > that the best for our cars are the red ones. I do have a Pertronix > ignition. Who makes good rotors? > > Fred Wescoe > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 7 07:40:09 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:40:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). From ahmg at aol.com Tue Jan 7 08:08:49 2020 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 10:08:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Side curtains for sale References: <6A73DD3D-7A74-4AA2-9701-4849B0376D50.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <6A73DD3D-7A74-4AA2-9701-4849B0376D50@aol.com> I thought I would offer to list before I return to Uk. I have a new still in box blue 100/4 set of high quality side screens, of which I have another set. As compared to offering at Moss, these are about 200.00 dollars less then the Moss listed price of 900.00. Free shipping in the US to list. Contact me off list if you have interest. If no interest I will just return but thought someone might be in market and would appreciate the savings. Ken Sent from my iPhone From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 08:46:45 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 10:46:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps In-Reply-To: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> References: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> Message-ID: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap. I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread. Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 7 12:05:45 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 19:05:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> Message-ID: <948116967.8056573.1578423945959@mail.yahoo.com> This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 12:40:53 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 14:40:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps In-Reply-To: <948116967.8056573.1578423945959@mail.yahoo.com> References: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> <948116967.8056573.1578423945959@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks for that Mike. A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I > bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand > pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know > that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - > Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump > for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head > and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because > the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the > original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge > bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly > have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jan 7 13:00:14 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 20:00:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps In-Reply-To: References: <9c1e3ff5-5559-ab4c-32e3-9c9d37ec6d94@comcast.net> <948116967.8056573.1578423945959@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1977743244.8060072.1578427214146@mail.yahoo.com> If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection?? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump.? Anyone familiar with this brand?? The thread is a course tapered one.? There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done.? I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump.? Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out.? Is the tap totally necessary? Mike MacLean On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: Thanks for that Mike.A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 1a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 358740 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 2a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 307036 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 7 13:21:15 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 12:21:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Water Pumps In-Reply-To: <1977743244.8060072.1578427214146@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1977743244.8060072.1578427214146@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9E647375-FD38-4B60-930C-9103343B82A0@comcast.net> Looks like the AHS pump to me. And, why are they painting them black?! > On Jan 7, 2020, at 12:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump. Anyone familiar with this brand? The thread is a course tapered one. There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done. I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump. Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out. Is the tap totally necessary? > Mike MacLean > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > Thanks for that Mike. > A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 19:51:48 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 10:51:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Side curtains for sale In-Reply-To: <6A73DD3D-7A74-4AA2-9701-4849B0376D50@aol.com> References: <6A73DD3D-7A74-4AA2-9701-4849B0376D50.ref@aol.com> <6A73DD3D-7A74-4AA2-9701-4849B0376D50@aol.com> Message-ID: I assume these are the later versions? On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 11:09 PM Ken Fleming via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I thought I would offer to list before I return to Uk. I have a new still > in box blue 100/4 set of high quality side screens, of which I have another > set. As compared to offering at Moss, these are about 200.00 dollars less > then the Moss listed price of 900.00. Free shipping in the US to list. > Contact me off list if you have interest. > If no interest I will just return but thought someone might be in market > and would appreciate the savings. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Wed Jan 8 12:37:35 2020 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 19:37:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would appreciate hearing from those who can comment on the sound of the Moss Tourist Trophy exhaust system on their BJ8. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 9 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Water Pumps (Michael MacLean) 2. Re: Water Pumps (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Water Pumps (Michael MacLean) 4. Re: Water Pumps (Bob Spidell) 5. Re: 100/4 Side curtains for sale (Alan Seigrist) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 19:05:45 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Bob Spidell , Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <948116967.8056573.1578423945959 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 14:40:53 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks for that Mike. A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I > bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand > pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know > that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - > Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump > for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head > and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because > the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the > original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge > bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly > have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 20:00:14 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <1977743244.8060072.1578427214146 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection?? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump.? Anyone familiar with this brand?? The thread is a course tapered one.? There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done.? I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump.? Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out.? Is the tap totally necessary? Mike MacLean On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: Thanks for that Mike.A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 1a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 358740 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 2a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 307036 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 12:21:15 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <9E647375-FD38-4B60-930C-9103343B82A0 at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Looks like the AHS pump to me. And, why are they painting them black?! > On Jan 7, 2020, at 12:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump. Anyone familiar with this brand? The thread is a course tapered one. There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done. I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump. Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out. Is the tap totally necessary? > Mike MacLean > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > Thanks for that Mike. > A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 10:51:48 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: Ken Fleming Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Side curtains for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I assume these are the later versions? On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 11:09 PM Ken Fleming via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I thought I would offer to list before I return to Uk. I have a new still > in box blue 100/4 set of high quality side screens, of which I have another > set. As compared to offering at Moss, these are about 200.00 dollars less > then the Moss listed price of 900.00. Free shipping in the US to list. > Contact me off list if you have interest. > If no interest I will just return but thought someone might be in market > and would appreciate the savings. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 9 ************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed Jan 8 18:59:06 2020 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 20:59:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a nasty drone to it. The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to me. It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 8 20:02:07 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 22:02:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Listened to a bunch of BJ8?s over the years, both driving them and listening from the curb. The exhaust note at idle is one thing but at speed can be quite different. Driving across country cruising at 65 to 80 MPH (no admission of breaking the law) can be deafening. Mild steel systems tend to sound a bit different then stainless. I?m partial to the mild steel for sound and stainless for durability. I suppose that the use of the car may dictate which type I would choose. On a related note, the intent of mufflers is to quiet the exhaust note and a resonator generally are used to rid the car of drone (resonance). With that in mind (let me know if assume incorrectly) the mufflers on a BJ8 would be under the left seat and resonators hung out back. They are there for a purpose. A six cylinder engine has its own interesting sound generating abilities. To the original question, the Moss system seems to be a good one. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Tom Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 9:04 PM To: John and Judy Carter Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a nasty drone to it. ?The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to me.? It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Jan 8 20:33:46 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 11:33:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: <20200109030219.E681EA0C87@autox.team.net> References: <20200109030219.E681EA0C87@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Mild steel really doesnt work, as soon as you smack them, the baffles will corrode loose shortly thereafter. The SS mufflers seem to take a smashing much better and still retain their effectiveness. Also, the SS systems seem to sound just like mild steel after a 5-10K of run in for the carbon to build up internally. On Thu, Jan 9, 2020 at 11:02 AM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Listened to a bunch of BJ8?s over the years, both driving them and > listening from the curb. The exhaust note at idle is one thing but at speed > can be quite different. Driving across country cruising at 65 to 80 MPH (no > admission of breaking the law) can be deafening. > > Mild steel systems tend to sound a bit different then stainless. I?m > partial to the mild steel for sound and stainless for durability. I suppose > that the use of the car may dictate which type I would choose. > > On a related note, the intent of mufflers is to quiet the exhaust note and > a resonator generally are used to rid the car of drone (resonance). With > that in mind (let me know if assume incorrectly) the mufflers on a BJ8 > would be under the left seat and resonators hung out back. They are there > for a purpose. A six cylinder engine has its own interesting sound > generating abilities. > > To the original question, the Moss system seems to be a good one. > > P > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Tom > *Sent: *Wednesday, January 8, 2020 9:04 PM > *To: *John and Judy Carter > *Cc: *Healey Mail List > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound > > > > My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes > straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a > nasty drone to it. > > > > The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to > me. It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. > > > > - Tom > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Thu Jan 9 12:10:41 2020 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 19:10:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks for all of the responses. John ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 9, 2020 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 10 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Exhaust sound (John and Judy Carter) 2. Re: Exhaust sound (Tom) 3. Re: Exhaust sound (Perry) 4. Re: Exhaust sound (Alan Seigrist) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 19:37:35 +0000 From: John and Judy Carter To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I would appreciate hearing from those who can comment on the sound of the Moss Tourist Trophy exhaust system on their BJ8. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 9 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Water Pumps (Michael MacLean) 2. Re: Water Pumps (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Water Pumps (Michael MacLean) 4. Re: Water Pumps (Bob Spidell) 5. Re: 100/4 Side curtains for sale (Alan Seigrist) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 19:05:45 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Bob Spidell , Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <948116967.8056573.1578423945959 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 14:40:53 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks for that Mike. A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I > bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand > pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know > that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - > Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump > for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head > and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because > the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the > original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge > bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly > have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 20:00:14 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Michael Salter Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <1977743244.8060072.1578427214146 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection?? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump.? Anyone familiar with this brand?? The thread is a course tapered one.? There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done.? I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump.? Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out.? Is the tap totally necessary? Mike MacLean On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: Thanks for that Mike.A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time.? I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block.? Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand.Mike MacLean British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY | | | | British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... | | | On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8"? 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap.I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread.? Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? M On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, that have been proffered by some: https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope.? I don't see the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed bearings and zerks(?). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 1a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 358740 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Water Pump 2a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 307036 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2020 12:21:15 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water Pumps Message-ID: <9E647375-FD38-4B60-930C-9103343B82A0 at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Looks like the AHS pump to me. And, why are they painting them black?! > On Jan 7, 2020, at 12:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the heater pipe tap to pump threaded connection? I have not installed the pump yet, but here are a couple of pics of the pump showing the threaded nipple and the brand of the pump. Anyone familiar with this brand? The thread is a course tapered one. There is a zert fitting on the side of the pump about halfway along the shaft for greasing, but no instructions on how often that should be done. I'm guessing the heater pipe connection is direct instead of the original tap that was screwed into the pump. Not clear if the tap that Moss sells will thread into this pump and I don't know if I want to spend $160+ to find out. Is the tap totally necessary? > Mike MacLean > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 11:41:04 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > Thanks for that Mike. > A question, did the brass tap for the heater pipe connection fit into the thread where the brass spigot is on the pump supplied? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 2:05 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > This one from British Parts Northwest has been available for some time. I bought one for my BN2 a couple of years ago to replace the county brand pump that was installed during the rebuild of the short block. Don't know that much about it, but it has to be better than County brand. > Mike MacLean > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Engine Cooling - BN1-BN2 - AUSTIN HEALEY > > British Parts Northwest Water Pump Uprated BN1 to BN2 - Water Pump - Eng... > This is an uprated water pump from the original warm weather water pump for an Austin Healey 100/4 (BN1 to BN2).... > > > > On Tuesday, January 7, 2020, 7:47:25 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: > > > As you point out Bob, a Zerk fitting with sealed bearings is a worry. > I also notice that the plug in the body of the 100 pump is an Allen head and what's the bet that the heater nipple on that pump is required because the thread is not the unusual 5/8" 16T.P.I. thread required by the original tap. > I also notice that the 100 pump rad hose connector has a bulb end. > On the 6 cylinder pump I don't like the look of that short cartridge bearing which, with the load imparted by a "V" belt, will almost certainly have limited life because of the decreased race spread. > > Why do they insist on reinventing the wheel? > > M > > On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 9:40 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Looks like we might have a solution to the bad water pumps, i.e. County, > that have been proffered by some: > > https://www.ahspares.co.uk/blog/new-premium-austin-healey-water-pumps.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email > > NFI, and I have no experience with them, but there's hope. I don't see > the correct pulley for BJ8s, though, and they appear to have both sealed > bearings and zerks(?). > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 10:51:48 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: Ken Fleming Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Side curtains for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I assume these are the later versions? On Tue, Jan 7, 2020 at 11:09 PM Ken Fleming via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I thought I would offer to list before I return to Uk. I have a new still > in box blue 100/4 set of high quality side screens, of which I have another > set. As compared to offering at Moss, these are about 200.00 dollars less > then the Moss listed price of 900.00. Free shipping in the US to list. > Contact me off list if you have interest. > If no interest I will just return but thought someone might be in market > and would appreciate the savings. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 9 ************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 20:59:06 -0500 From: Tom To: John and Judy Carter Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a nasty drone to it. The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to me. It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2020 22:02:07 -0500 From: Perry To: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Listened to a bunch of BJ8?s over the years, both driving them and listening from the curb. The exhaust note at idle is one thing but at speed can be quite different. Driving across country cruising at 65 to 80 MPH (no admission of breaking the law) can be deafening. Mild steel systems tend to sound a bit different then stainless. I?m partial to the mild steel for sound and stainless for durability. I suppose that the use of the car may dictate which type I would choose. On a related note, the intent of mufflers is to quiet the exhaust note and a resonator generally are used to rid the car of drone (resonance). With that in mind (let me know if assume incorrectly) the mufflers on a BJ8 would be under the left seat and resonators hung out back. They are there for a purpose. A six cylinder engine has its own interesting sound generating abilities. To the original question, the Moss system seems to be a good one. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Tom Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 9:04 PM To: John and Judy Carter Cc: Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a nasty drone to it. ?The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to me.? It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 11:33:46 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: Perry Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Mild steel really doesnt work, as soon as you smack them, the baffles will corrode loose shortly thereafter. The SS mufflers seem to take a smashing much better and still retain their effectiveness. Also, the SS systems seem to sound just like mild steel after a 5-10K of run in for the carbon to build up internally. On Thu, Jan 9, 2020 at 11:02 AM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Listened to a bunch of BJ8?s over the years, both driving them and > listening from the curb. The exhaust note at idle is one thing but at speed > can be quite different. Driving across country cruising at 65 to 80 MPH (no > admission of breaking the law) can be deafening. > > Mild steel systems tend to sound a bit different then stainless. I?m > partial to the mild steel for sound and stainless for durability. I suppose > that the use of the car may dictate which type I would choose. > > On a related note, the intent of mufflers is to quiet the exhaust note and > a resonator generally are used to rid the car of drone (resonance). With > that in mind (let me know if assume incorrectly) the mufflers on a BJ8 > would be under the left seat and resonators hung out back. They are there > for a purpose. A six cylinder engine has its own interesting sound > generating abilities. > > To the original question, the Moss system seems to be a good one. > > P > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Tom > *Sent: *Wednesday, January 8, 2020 9:04 PM > *To: *John and Judy Carter > *Cc: *Healey Mail List > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Exhaust sound > > > > My old system was two resonators under the driver's seat and pipes > straight back out the left side. The old system was much too loud and had a > nasty drone to it. > > > > The Moss Tourist Trophy system is quieter and sounds quite authentic to > me. It also bolted right up without a lot of fuss and muss. > > > > - Tom > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 10 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Thu Jan 9 15:56:47 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 22:56:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Craigslist Healey References: <851701940.9389100.1578610607179.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <851701940.9389100.1578610607179@mail.yahoo.com> For sale on Craigslist.? License tag 1967 AH.? Belong to anyone on the list? https://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/d/richmond-1967-austin-healey-3000-mk/7037633982.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 9 18:49:52 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 20:49:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just noticed that there is a Tourist Trophy system listed on ebay. NFI on my part. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 9 18:49:52 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 20:49:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust sound In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just noticed that there is a Tourist Trophy system listed on ebay. NFI on my part. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jan 9 19:14:54 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 21:14:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages Message-ID: Listers Seems like several times a day I get multiple copies of a message. Seems to always happen if I initiate the subject. Anybody else getting these extras? P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jan 9 19:22:57 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 18:22:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages In-Reply-To: <20200110021506.E01ACA0F91@autox.team.net> References: <20200110021506.E01ACA0F91@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1870ecaf-4d9b-4ba5-d156-eeeff22dfec1@comcast.net> Me too. Me too. On 1/9/2020 6:14 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > > Listers > > Seems like several times a day I get multiple copies of a message.? > Seems to always happen if I initiate the subject. Anybody else getting > these extras? > > P > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Thu Jan 9 20:34:19 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 19:34:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages In-Reply-To: <1870ecaf-4d9b-4ba5-d156-eeeff22dfec1@comcast.net> References: <20200110021506.E01ACA0F91@autox.team.net> <1870ecaf-4d9b-4ba5-d156-eeeff22dfec1@comcast.net> Message-ID: <87fa0dc1-167c-69a2-c49e-ea7c875cb172@comcast.net> Ditto Ditto On 1/9/2020 6:22 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Me too. > > Me too. > > > > On 1/9/2020 6:14 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: >> >> Listers >> >> Seems like several times a day I get multiple copies of a message.? >> Seems to always happen if I initiate the subject. Anybody else >> getting these extras? >> >> P >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Jan 9 20:47:18 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 14:47:18 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages In-Reply-To: <87fa0dc1-167c-69a2-c49e-ea7c875cb172@comcast.net> References: <20200110021506.E01ACA0F91@autox.team.net> <1870ecaf-4d9b-4ba5-d156-eeeff22dfec1@comcast.net> <87fa0dc1-167c-69a2-c49e-ea7c875cb172@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00bc01d5c768$a923f590$fb6be0b0$@tpg.com.au> The messages must be coming from New York. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair Sent: Friday, 10 January 2020 2:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages Ditto Ditto On 1/9/2020 6:22 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Me too. Me too. On 1/9/2020 6:14 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: Listers Seems like several times a day I get multiple copies of a message. Seems to always happen if I initiate the subject. Anybody else getting these extras? P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 9 22:44:17 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 21:44:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Multiple Copies of Messages In-Reply-To: <00bc01d5c768$a923f590$fb6be0b0$@tpg.com.au> References: <20200110021506.E01ACA0F91@autox.team.net> <1870ecaf-4d9b-4ba5-d156-eeeff22dfec1@comcast.net> <87fa0dc1-167c-69a2-c49e-ea7c875cb172@comcast.net> <00bc01d5c768$a923f590$fb6be0b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <000f01d5c779$011fd010$035f7030$@sbcglobal.net> I believe it is an ISP issue because it is not limited to Austin Healey list emails. John -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jan 10 02:05:40 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 10:05:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] boot hinges Message-ID: <7309a45c-28f2-0207-2587-bdccddbd8c11@chello.nl> Thanks everybody who responded on my friends question about the A-H boot hinges where the same as the bonnet hinges of the early Jensen Interceptor. The result is: they are. Quite logical as both cars were made in the same factory and the A-H was developed for production by Jensen at the time the Jensen Interceptor was already in production. Kees Oudesluijs From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net Fri Jan 10 05:56:23 2020 From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 06:56:23 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Crazy Message-ID: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> Is this dealer smoking something? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/austin-healey/bugeye/2361619.htm l?refer=alert Herb Miller -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Jan 10 08:25:58 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 15:25:58 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Crazy In-Reply-To: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> References: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <000901d5c7ca$43a00760$cae01620$@alexarevel.plus.com> Must be good stuff! Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Herb Miller Sent: 10 January 2020 12:56 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Crazy Is this dealer smoking something? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/austin-healey/bugeye/2361619.htm l?refer=alert Herb Miller -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Jan 10 09:55:25 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 11:55:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil Message-ID: Can I use Synthetic 75W90 gear oil in my BJ8? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 10 10:06:39 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 09:06:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Crazy In-Reply-To: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> References: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: Anyone buying it st that price would clearly need to be high Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 4:57 AM Herb Miller wrote: > Is this dealer smoking something? > > > https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/austin-healey/bugeye/2361619.html?refer=alert > > Herb Miller > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 10 10:20:05 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 09:20:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <70faa732-7673-3413-9e45-f88ff72035f1@comcast.net> Short answer: Yes. My typical long-winded reply: I've used Redline 75W-90 in both my BJ8 and BN2 diffs for years with no issues, except you might get a bit more leakage, esp. if your pinion seal is aged (sealing the plugs with thread sealant seems to work).? A couple years ago I switched to RL's 75W-140 in the BJ8 to damp some whine--helps a little--again with no issues (might increase my 0-60 times by 0.00001 second). We recently had a discussion about whether it was a good idea to use GL-4 or GL-5 in our diffs due to their alleged hatred of 'yellow' metals--brass or bronze--and David Nock confirmed to me there are some bronze thrust washers in the diffs but neither he, with vastly more experience, nor I have had any issues with it.? Days spent in the library--OK, 5 minutes on the interwebs--produced a more-or-less consensus that the worst it would do is turn yellow metals black. I've had the RL in my BJ8 for, probably, 100K miles, and I recently rebuilt its gearbox that I'd run MT-90 (GL-4) in for many years and 140K miles and the shift forks showed no excessive wear or discoloration. Bob On 1/10/2020 8:55 AM, R. Lindsay wrote: > Can I use Synthetic 75W90 gear oil in my BJ8? > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > > > From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 10 11:58:33 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 13:58:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust References: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C@aol.com> Fired up the kids in the garage today. A weekly ritual in the colder days of winter. Was thinking about the BJ8 exhaust sound discussion and recorded Mr Red and Mellow Yellow?s exhaust note at the exhaust tip. Files are much to large to share on the list but, as always, in makes me smile to hear the boys again. My wife let me know that I smell like those two old beasts after inhaling the start up fog (chokes on) in a confined space. Some things are just worth it. Have a good one folks P Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 10 12:22:52 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 11:22:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust In-Reply-To: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C@aol.com> References: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C.ref@aol.com> <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C@aol.com> Message-ID: <1bce9897-d6f3-ffb1-2f40-c3f494a390b1@comcast.net> Please tell me you're not breathing the exhaust gas with its carbon monoxide; us Healey lovers are, um, 'retiring' quickly as it is. On 1/10/2020 10:58 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Fired up the kids in the garage today. A weekly ritual in the colder days of winter. Was thinking about the BJ8 exhaust sound discussion and recorded Mr Red and Mellow Yellow?s exhaust note at the exhaust tip. Files are much to large to share on the list but, as always, in makes me smile to hear the boys again. My wife let me know that I smell like those two old beasts after inhaling the start up fog (chokes on) in a confined space. Some things are just worth it. > Have a good one folks > P > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jan 10 12:47:00 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 19:47:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Crazy In-Reply-To: References: <012c01d5c7b5$5d8ff0a0$18afd1e0$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <389088217.9820586.1578685620891@mail.yahoo.com> I just paid $6000 for a very nice running? 69 MGB GT that needs almost nothing.? At 8 grand you should not need any rust repair.? You are going to spend that much just on removing teh cancer before you ever get to the mechanical issues that surely exist in a car in that condition. On Friday, January 10, 2020, 9:07:07 AM PST, i erbs wrote: Anyone buying it st that price would clearly need to be high Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 4:57 AM Herb Miller wrote: Is this dealer smoking something? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/austin-healey/bugeye/2361619.html?refer=alert Herb Miller ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumbnail.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169981 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Jan 10 18:55:09 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 17:55:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> Transmission or differential? Differential is 80W-90 API GL-5 Transmission is 75W-90 API GL-4 The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. There are likely other difference but they won't show until 100,000 miles of hard driving. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Friday, January 10, 2020 8:55 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil Can I use Synthetic 75W90 gear oil in my BJ8? Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From abraund at siue.edu Sat Jan 11 07:31:27 2020 From: abraund at siue.edu (Braundmeier, A.) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 14:31:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust In-Reply-To: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C@aol.com> References: <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C.ref@aol.com>, <7584EC8E-4873-4BAF-8E96-175D72C1AF4C@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi Perry, Is it possible that you could send me one of your exhaust recordings? My email is art_braundmeier at yahoo.com. If too large for email perhaps, if you have dropbox, then send me that link. I sold my BJ8 couple of years ago and miss that sound. Also, I have written programs which analyze sound for frequency spectrum and am interested in the spectrum of the BJ8 sound. Art Braundmeier Boulder, CO ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry Small via Healeys Sent: Friday, January 10, 2020 11:58 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Fired up the kids in the garage today. A weekly ritual in the colder days of winter. Was thinking about the BJ8 exhaust sound discussion and recorded Mr Red and Mellow Yellow?s exhaust note at the exhaust tip. Files are much to large to share on the list but, as always, in makes me smile to hear the boys again. My wife let me know that I smell like those two old beasts after inhaling the start up fog (chokes on) in a confined space. Some things are just worth it. Have a good one folks P Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/abraund at siue.edu -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Jan 11 08:23:31 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 15:23:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> Message-ID: <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it??Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic.? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jan 11 09:50:38 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 08:50:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold _____ From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Jan 11 09:57:54 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 16:57:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com>, <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> Message-ID: Harold, It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all drained out!!!!!!! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 12 08:14:53 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:14:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair Message-ID: For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured out a repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of 100 heater valves. I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater valve knobs. [image: image.png] Please don't throw those old valves out ... Contact me off line for more information. M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun Jan 12 09:46:14 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 16:46:14 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair Message-ID: Great to know and thank you from all the 100 owners! You never know when we may need this repair! Steven Kingsbury On January 12, 2020 at 7:25 AM, Michael Salter wrote: For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured out a repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of 100 heater valves. I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater valve knobs. Please don't throw those old valves out ... Contact me off line for more information. M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sun Jan 12 10:40:45 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 09:40:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Message-ID: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27508 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Sat Jan 11 10:23:41 2020 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 09:23:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com>, <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> Message-ID: <18A8CADBD88E433D8B2C399E8E435003@Inspiron660> I was sure I was going to be the first one to have a leak free Healey when I rebuilt my engine/transmission in 2004. It was leak free for the first year or so, but, after that I have the usual drips. I keep a piece of cardboard under the car to keep track of the leaks. I assume that age and use just opens up the leaks over time. Ron Fine From: Jean Caron Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:57 AM To: Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Harold, It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all drained out!!!!!!! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Jan 11 11:02:07 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 18:02:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? References: <772596090.11762059.1578765727323.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <772596090.11762059.1578765727323@mail.yahoo.com> All I am saying is I find a lot of this hard to believe. For example:?Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil. "Much better" sounds good but is not very scientific. How much better, scientifically speaking? Just changing oil regularly does what you are taking about & none of it has to do with leaking unless you are counting on "sludge & gunk" to plug the leaking holes. Good Luck! Careful?rebuilding including paying close attention to applying sealants where applicable, like bolt/screw threads when they are in contact?with the oil will make a big difference. Re-tightening all the bolts after a break-in period will also assist.?Gary Hodson ?From: Harold Manifold? Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? ?Hello, ? All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: ? Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). ? I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. ? I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold ? From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it?? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net #yiv0320298619 v00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 o00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 w00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 .yiv0320298619shape {} #yiv0320298619 #yiv0320298619 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv0320298619 #yiv0320298619 p.yiv0320298619MsoNormal, #yiv0320298619 li.yiv0320298619MsoNormal, #yiv0320298619 div.yiv0320298619MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv0320298619 a:link, #yiv0320298619 span.yiv0320298619MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0320298619 .yiv0320298619MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {} #yiv0320298619 div.yiv0320298619WordSection1 {} #yiv0320298619 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 12 10:58:10 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 09:58:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <18A8CADBD88E433D8B2C399E8E435003@Inspiron660> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> <18A8CADBD88E433D8B2C399E8E435003@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <5abe955f-1c16-8b9d-042b-af39abfe367e@comcast.net> I was leak free for the first 60 years ... On 1/11/2020 9:23 AM, Ron Fine wrote: > I was sure I was going to be the first one to have a leak free Healey > when I rebuilt my engine/transmission in 2004. It was leak free for > the first year or so, but, after that I have the usual drips.? I keep > a piece of cardboard under the car to keep track of the leaks.? I > assume that age and use just opens up the leaks over time. > Ron Fine > *From:* Jean Caron > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:57 AM > *To:* Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; > healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Harold, > > It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all > drained out!!!!!!! > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Harold Manifold > *Sent: *January 11, 2020 10:53 AM > *To: *warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Hello, > > All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an > article about synthetic oil leaks: > > Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already > worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or > cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. > This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, > flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates > much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). > > I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. > Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior > along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am > changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing > neoprene washers on the fasteners. > > I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold > > *From:*warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Does synthetic oil leak more? > > I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there > to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil > molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that > the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it > because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How > much more slippery is it? > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' > > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil > > > The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is > they leak > more than non-synthetic. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 12 11:07:40 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:07:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1845e009-14a4-1650-1825-0f9c02250e82@comcast.net> Just to be clear, the 'brass stem' is the outlet tube? On 1/12/2020 8:46 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > Great to know and thank you from all the 100 owners! You never know > when we may need this repair! > Steven Kingsbury > > > On January 12, 2020 at 7:25 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured >> out a repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of >> 100 heater valves. >> I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater >> valve knobs. >> image.png >> Please don't throw those old valves out ... >> Contact me off line for more information. >> >> M >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 12 11:23:10 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:23:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <10e8b78c683b7b6b1697f2964b9e954973974644@> Food for thought -----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "warthodson at aol.com" Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 10:18:59AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Found this info by looking for the molecule size of synthetic oil. Most conventional oil is about 2 microns and that is why we set our bearing clearance at .002 to allow the oil to pass. Early machining does not match what we have today with the close tolerances we can now achieve...so the finer synthetic runs out. If I run Redline in my Healey trans it ends up on the floor. Regular 30W stays in, and only leaves a quarter size puddle. Used lots of good sealant but that wont keep the new oils in if they are good soldiers: "The main difference between synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil is found in their molecular structure. In a mineral oil, the molecules come from organic, natural materials, and as we know, nature isn't always consistent. There can sometimes be a few oddball molecules in mineral oils. Synthetic oils [1], on the other hand, were created by scientists in a lab. The molecules are uniform, and they line up like good soldiers inside of your engine." See illustration attached- Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "warthodson--- via Healeys" To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net, vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com, manifold at telus.net, 050.rpl at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 9:44:13AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? All I am saying is I find a lot of this hard to believe. For example: Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil. "Much better" sounds good but is not very scientific. How much better, scientifically speaking? Just changing oil regularly does what you are taking about & none of it has to do with leaking unless you are counting on "sludge & gunk" to plug the leaking holes. Good Luck! Careful rebuilding including paying close attention to applying sealants where applicable, like bolt/screw threads when they are in contact with the oil will make a big difference. Re-tightening all the bolts after a break-in period will also assist. Gary Hodson FROM: Harold Manifold SENT: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM TO: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold FROM: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] SENT: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM TO: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. ------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] [6]http://autox.team.net/archive [7] Healeys at autox.team.net [8]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] Unsubscribe/Manage: [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net [11] Links: ------ [1] https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/trends-innovations/synthetic-oil-technology.htm [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: synthetic-oil-molecules-vs-mineral.webp Type: image/webp Size: 33546 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jan 12 11:37:23 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 13:37:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair In-Reply-To: <1845e009-14a4-1650-1825-0f9c02250e82@comcast.net> References: <1845e009-14a4-1650-1825-0f9c02250e82@comcast.net> Message-ID: No Bob, I'm referring to the brass shaft that the handle is mounted on. These have a tendency to break off just below the knob where the shaft is reduced to a 3/16" square section, particularly when Channelocks are applied. M On Sun, Jan 12, 2020, 1:16 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > Just to be clear, the 'brass stem' is the outlet tube? > > > On 1/12/2020 8:46 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > > Great to know and thank you from all the 100 owners! You never know when > we may need this repair! > Steven Kingsbury > > > On January 12, 2020 at 7:25 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > > For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured out a > repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of 100 heater > valves. > I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater valve > knobs. > [image: image.png] > Please don't throw those old valves out ... > Contact me off line for more information. > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 12 11:42:44 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:42:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Message-ID: Here is the diagram from the workshop manual-the spring fits into the valve recess and into the cap nut with a fibre washer to seal. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Jonas Payne" To: "gradea1 at charter.net", "jpaynepbr at cox.net" Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 10:29:11AM Subject: RE: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Moss spring measures 2.5?, mine is just over 2.25?, so it doesn?t appear to have been stretched. Question is, is it supposed to set down in that hole on the plug? It does go into the bullet valve. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 _WE HAVE MOVED!_ Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 FROM: gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:04 AM TO: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Yikes! Get a new spring-someone has stretched that one to make more oil pressure. It must be making geysers at your rockers. See Moss for a replacement-they may have the overall length mentioned. Oil pressure at start up should be 60-80 depending on viscosity and 20-30 at idle. Yes, the spring release is set to be about 60lbs. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: jpaynepbr at cox.net To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 9:41:16AM Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas FROM: Jonas Payne SENT: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM TO: Jonas Payne SUBJECT: Pic Get Outlook for Android [1] Links: ------ [1] https://aka.ms/ghei36 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: oil release valve.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 308649 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 12 11:46:13 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:46:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> Message-ID: <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > Jonas > > > From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 12 11:46:13 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:46:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> Message-ID: <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > Jonas > > > From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jan 12 12:16:04 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 14:16:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <10e8b78c683b7b6b1697f2964b9e954973974644@> References: <10e8b78c683b7b6b1697f2964b9e954973974644@> Message-ID: <2f9127ea-ec90-aff3-a22b-fced8ebf0fed@earthlink.net> Hank, I don't understand the correlation between 2 microns (2 thousandths of a millimeter, or roughly one tenth thousandth of an inch) and 2 thousandths of an inch. Clearance (0.002") should be 25 times the molecule size (0.00008")? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 1/12/20 1:23 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > Food for thought > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: gradea1 at charter.net > To: "warthodson at aol.com" > Cc: > Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 10:18:59AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Found this info by looking for the molecule size of synthetic oil.? Most > conventional oil is about 2 microns and that is why we set our bearing > clearance at .002 to allow the oil to pass. Early machining does not > match what we have today with the close tolerances we can now > achieve...so the finer synthetic runs out.? If I run Redline in my > Healey trans it ends up on the floor. Regular 30W stays in, and only > leaves a quarter size puddle. Used lots of good sealant but that wont > keep the new oils in if they are good soldiers: > > "The main difference between synthetic motor oil and conventional motor > oil is found in their molecular structure. In a mineral oil, the > molecules come from organic, natural materials, and as we know, nature > isn't always consistent. There can sometimes be a few oddball molecules > in mineral oils. Synthetic oils > , > on the other hand, were created by scientists in a lab. The molecules > are uniform, and they line up like good soldiers inside of your engine." > > See illustration attached- Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "warthodson--- via Healeys" > To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net, vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com, > manifold at telus.net, 050.rpl at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net > Cc: > Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 9:44:13AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > All I am saying is I find a lot of this hard to believe. For example: > Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better > than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than > conventional oil. "Much better" sounds good but is not very scientific. > How much better, scientifically speaking? Just changing oil regularly > does what you are taking about & none of it has to do with leaking > unless you are counting on "sludge & gunk" to plug the leaking holes. > Good Luck! Careful?rebuilding including paying close attention to > applying sealants where applicable, like bolt/screw threads when they > are in contact?with the oil will make a big difference. Re-tightening > all the bolts after a break-in period will also assist. > Gary Hodson > > > > *From: *Harold Manifold > *Sent: *January 11, 2020 10:53 AM > *To: *warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > Hello, > All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an > article about synthetic oil leaks: > Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out > gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any > sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is > because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much > better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than > conventional oil (This is a good thing). > I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe > it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the > bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the > gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on > the fasteners. > I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold > image > *From:*warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Does synthetic oil leak more? > I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to > be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil > molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that > the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because > the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more > slippery is it? > Gary Hodson > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil > > The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak > more than non-synthetic. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From warthodson at aol.com Sun Jan 12 12:34:58 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 19:34:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? References: <207877772.12119458.1578857698063.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <207877772.12119458.1578857698063@mail.yahoo.com> What does bearing clearance have to do with oil leaks??You must have some very precise holes in your transmission that allows only synthetic oil to escape. I am not buying that theory.Gary? -----Original Message----- From: gradea1 To: 'warthodson at aol.com' Sent: Sun, Jan 12, 2020 12:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Found this info by looking for the molecule size of synthetic oil.? Most conventional oil is about 2 microns and that is why we set our bearing clearance at .002 to allow the oil to pass. Early machining does not match what we have today with the close tolerances we can now achieve...so the finer synthetic runs out.? If I run Redline in my Healey trans it ends up on the floor. Regular 30W stays in, and only leaves a quarter size puddle. Used lots of good sealant but that wont keep the new oils in if they are good soldiers:"The main difference between synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil is found in their molecular structure. In a mineral oil, the molecules come from organic, natural materials, and as we know, nature isn't always consistent. There can sometimes be a few oddball molecules in mineral oils.?Synthetic oils, on the other hand, were created by scientists in a lab. The molecules are uniform, and they line up like good soldiers inside of your engine." See illustration attached- Hank #yiv2284244539 v00003a* {}#yiv2284244539 o00003a* {}#yiv2284244539 w00003a* {}#yiv2284244539 .yiv2284244539shape {}#yiv2284244539 -- filtered {}#yiv2284244539 filtered {}#yiv2284244539 filtered {}#yiv2284244539 p.yiv2284244539MsoNormal, #yiv2284244539 li.yiv2284244539MsoNormal, #yiv2284244539 div.yiv2284244539MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2284244539 a:link, #yiv2284244539 span.yiv2284244539MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2284244539 .yiv2284244539MsoChpDefault {}#yiv2284244539 filtered {}#yiv2284244539 div.yiv2284244539WordSection1 {}#yiv2284244539 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Sun Jan 12 15:30:29 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 22:30:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: David I can add a similar problem to that which you identified where there were 100 sump gaskets on the market that did not a have a hole where the oil behind the valve could get away resulting in the relief valve not operate correctly. If the valve did not 'relief' then oil pressure could rise way above the safe reading. This could cause the pump to have to work harder and the stain on the pump, pump shaft and cam shaft could cause damage. Best regards On Sun, 12 Jan 2020 at 19:21, David Nock wrote: > The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. > There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int > the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy > pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and > plu the hole up. > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of > oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated > up. > > > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not > exceed 60 psi? > > > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down > inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on > the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > > > > Jonas > > > > > > *From:* Jonas Payne > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > *To:* Jonas Payne > *Subject:* Pic > > > > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Sun Jan 12 16:08:56 2020 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 23:08:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 14 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My 3000 does exactly the same thing with oil pressure after the new oil pump. I just ignore it. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 1:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 14 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question (jpaynepbr at cox.net) 2. Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? (Ron Fine) 3. Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? (warthodson at aol.com) 4. Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? (Bob Spidell) 5. Re: 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair (Bob Spidell) 6. FW: Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? (gradea1 at charter.net) 7. Re: 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair (Michael Salter) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 09:40:45 -0800 From: To: "'Healeys'" Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Message-ID: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27508 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 09:23:41 -0800 From: "Ron Fine" To: "Jean Caron" , "Harold Manifold" , , <050.rpl at gmail.com>, Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <18A8CADBD88E433D8B2C399E8E435003 at Inspiron660> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I was sure I was going to be the first one to have a leak free Healey when I rebuilt my engine/transmission in 2004. It was leak free for the first year or so, but, after that I have the usual drips. I keep a piece of cardboard under the car to keep track of the leaks. I assume that age and use just opens up the leaks over time. Ron Fine From: Jean Caron Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:57 AM To: Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Harold, It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all drained out!!!!!!! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2020 18:02:07 +0000 (UTC) From: warthodson at aol.com To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net, vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com, manifold at telus.net, 050.rpl at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <772596090.11762059.1578765727323 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" All I am saying is I find a lot of this hard to believe. For example:?Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil. "Much better" sounds good but is not very scientific. How much better, scientifically speaking? Just changing oil regularly does what you are taking about & none of it has to do with leaking unless you are counting on "sludge & gunk" to plug the leaking holes. Good Luck! Careful?rebuilding including paying close attention to applying sealants where applicable, like bolt/screw threads when they are in contact?with the oil will make a big difference. Re-tightening all the bolts after a break-in period will also assist.?Gary Hodson ?From: Harold Manifold? Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? ?Hello, ? All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: ? Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). ? I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. ? I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold ? From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it?? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net #yiv0320298619 v00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 o00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 w00003a* {} #yiv0320298619 .yiv0320298619shape {} #yiv0320298619 #yiv0320298619 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv0320298619 #yiv0320298619 p.yiv0320298619MsoNormal, #yiv0320298619 li.yiv0320298619MsoNormal, #yiv0320298619 div.yiv0320298619MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv0320298619 a:link, #yiv0320298619 span.yiv0320298619MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0320298619 .yiv0320298619MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {} #yiv0320298619 div.yiv0320298619WordSection1 {} #yiv0320298619 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 09:58:10 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <5abe955f-1c16-8b9d-042b-af39abfe367e at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" I was leak free for the first 60 years ... On 1/11/2020 9:23 AM, Ron Fine wrote: > I was sure I was going to be the first one to have a leak free Healey > when I rebuilt my engine/transmission in 2004. It was leak free for > the first year or so, but, after that I have the usual drips.? I keep > a piece of cardboard under the car to keep track of the leaks.? I > assume that age and use just opens up the leaks over time. > Ron Fine > *From:* Jean Caron > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:57 AM > *To:* Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; > healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Harold, > > It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all > drained out!!!!!!! > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Harold Manifold > *Sent: *January 11, 2020 10:53 AM > *To: *warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Hello, > > All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an > article about synthetic oil leaks: > > Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already > worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or > cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. > This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, > flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates > much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). > > I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. > Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior > along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am > changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing > neoprene washers on the fasteners. > > I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold > > *From:*warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Does synthetic oil leak more? > > I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there > to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil > molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that > the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it > because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How > much more slippery is it? > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' > > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil > > > The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is > they leak > more than non-synthetic. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:07:40 -0800 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair Message-ID: <1845e009-14a4-1650-1825-0f9c02250e82 at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" Just to be clear, the 'brass stem' is the outlet tube? On 1/12/2020 8:46 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > Great to know and thank you from all the 100 owners! You never know > when we may need this repair! > Steven Kingsbury > > > On January 12, 2020 at 7:25 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured >> out a repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of >> 100 heater valves. >> I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater >> valve knobs. >> image.png >> Please don't throw those old valves out ... >> Contact me off line for more information. >> >> M >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 10:23:10 -0800 From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" Subject: [Healeys] FW: Re: Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <10e8b78c683b7b6b1697f2964b9e954973974644@> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Food for thought -----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "warthodson at aol.com" Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 10:18:59AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Found this info by looking for the molecule size of synthetic oil. Most conventional oil is about 2 microns and that is why we set our bearing clearance at .002 to allow the oil to pass. Early machining does not match what we have today with the close tolerances we can now achieve...so the finer synthetic runs out. If I run Redline in my Healey trans it ends up on the floor. Regular 30W stays in, and only leaves a quarter size puddle. Used lots of good sealant but that wont keep the new oils in if they are good soldiers: "The main difference between synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil is found in their molecular structure. In a mineral oil, the molecules come from organic, natural materials, and as we know, nature isn't always consistent. There can sometimes be a few oddball molecules in mineral oils. Synthetic oils [1], on the other hand, were created by scientists in a lab. The molecules are uniform, and they line up like good soldiers inside of your engine." See illustration attached- Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "warthodson--- via Healeys" To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net, vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com, manifold at telus.net, 050.rpl at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 9:44:13AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? All I am saying is I find a lot of this hard to believe. For example: Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil. "Much better" sounds good but is not very scientific. How much better, scientifically speaking? Just changing oil regularly does what you are taking about & none of it has to do with leaking unless you are counting on "sludge & gunk" to plug the leaking holes. Good Luck! Careful rebuilding including paying close attention to applying sealants where applicable, like bolt/screw threads when they are in contact with the oil will make a big difference. Re-tightening all the bolts after a break-in period will also assist. Gary Hodson FROM: Harold Manifold SENT: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM TO: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold FROM: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] SENT: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM TO: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. ------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] [6]http://autox.team.net/archive [7] Healeys at autox.team.net [8]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] Unsubscribe/Manage: [10]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net [11] Links: ------ [1] https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/trends-innovations/synthetic-oil-technology.htm [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: synthetic-oil-molecules-vs-mineral.webp Type: image/webp Size: 33546 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 13:37:23 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" No Bob, I'm referring to the brass shaft that the handle is mounted on. These have a tendency to break off just below the knob where the shaft is reduced to a 3/16" square section, particularly when Channelocks are applied. M On Sun, Jan 12, 2020, 1:16 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > Just to be clear, the 'brass stem' is the outlet tube? > > > On 1/12/2020 8:46 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote: > > Great to know and thank you from all the 100 owners! You never know when > we may need this repair! > Steven Kingsbury > > > On January 12, 2020 at 7:25 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > > For anyone interested I have, after several failed attempts, figured out a > repair scheme to repair the commonly broken off brass stem of 100 heater > valves. > I have also purchased the necessary tooling to produce new heater valve > knobs. > [image: image.png] > Please don't throw those old valves out ... > Contact me off line for more information. > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1580597 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 14 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun Jan 12 17:55:02 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 13:55:02 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com>, <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> Message-ID: <000001d5c9ac$17e725c0$47b57140$@xtra.co.nz> Even then, I wouldn?t be 100% confident. ? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Jean Caron Sent: Sunday, 12 January 2020 5:58 a.m. To: Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Harold, It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all drained out!!!!!!! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com >; 'Healey List' > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 12 18:38:25 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 17:38:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: Opps!, sorry I used a slang word. Should have said "thou". Best oil channel for conventional oil is .0015"...not microns. The synthetic oil leaks from the transmission and overdrive come from seepage around the lockout switch, annular ring and any protruding bolts that could seep around the threads. Conventional oil-due to its larger molecule size can't sneak out as easily. I only used the bearing clearance as a reference to the size of oil channels found in older engines. Sorry to offend. Hank -----------------------------------------From: warthodson at aol.com To: gradea1 at charter.net, healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Sunday January 12 2020 11:35:06AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? What does bearing clearance have to do with oil leaks? You must have some very precise holes in your transmission that allows only synthetic oil to escape. I am not buying that theory. Gary -----Original Message----- From: gradea1 To: 'warthodson at aol.com' Sent: Sun, Jan 12, 2020 12:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Found this info by looking for the molecule size of synthetic oil. Most conventional oil is about 2 microns and that is why we set our bearing clearance at .002 to allow the oil to pass. Early machining does not match what we have today with the close tolerances we can now achieve...so the finer synthetic runs out. If I run Redline in my Healey trans it ends up on the floor. Regular 30W stays in, and only leaves a quarter size puddle. Used lots of good sealant but that wont keep the new oils in if they are good soldiers: "The main difference between synthetic motor oil and conventional motor oil is found in their molecular structure. In a mineral oil, the molecules come from organic, natural materials, and as we know, nature isn't always consistent. There can sometimes be a few oddball molecules in mineral oils. Synthetic oils [1], on the other hand, were created by scientists in a lab. The molecules are uniform, and they line up like good soldiers inside of your engine." See illustration attached- Hank Links: ------ [1] https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/trends-innovations/synthetic-oil-technology.htm -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Jan 12 19:08:00 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 18:08:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <000001d5c9ac$17e725c0$47b57140$@xtra.co.nz> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com>, <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> <000001d5c9ac$17e725c0$47b57140$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: What I am conflicted about is: "If there are no oil leaks what will prevent rust?" _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 4:55 PM To: 'Jean Caron'; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Even then, I wouldn?t be 100% confident. ? Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Jean Caron Sent: Sunday, 12 January 2020 5:58 a.m. To: Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Harold, It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all drained out!!!!!!! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: January 11, 2020 10:53 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun Jan 12 19:50:40 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 19:50:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1344836888.389707830.1578883840988.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Yes me too. Changed out my oil pan gasket for a newer silicone one, and as that drain notch had not been cut out oil pressure went through the roof. Had to drop the pan again and make a notch.rg ----- Original Message ----- From: John Harper To: David Nock Cc: Healeys Sent: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 15:30:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question David I can add a similar problem to that which you identified where there were 100 sump gaskets on the market that did not a have a hole where the oil behind the valve could get away resulting in the relief valve not operate correctly. If the valve did not 'relief' then oil pressure could rise way above the safe reading. This could cause the pump to have to work harder and the stain on the pump, pump shaft and cam shaft could cause damage. Best regards On Sun, 12 Jan 2020 at 19:21, David Nock wrote: The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ?My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 12 20:11:00 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 19:11:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater Tap Stem Repair In-Reply-To: References: <1845e009-14a4-1650-1825-0f9c02250e82@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2b99a318-b1f7-92c2-df93-763502be1963@comcast.net> Ah, OK.? Are you brazing them up? On 1/12/2020 10:37 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > No Bob, I'm referring to the brass shaft that the handle is mounted on. > These have a tendency to break off just below the knob where the shaft > is reduced to a 3/16" square section, particularly when Channelocks > are applied. > > M > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Jan 13 06:37:44 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 08:37:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> Message-ID: <061701d5ca16$a3315c30$e9941490$@gmail.com> My problem is leaking from the brass drain fitting in the bottom of the overdrive. When I used motor oil eventually by tightening the fitting, the drips would stop. With the synthetic oil the drips will not stop. Over the summer, while the car was sitting in the garage, there was a puddle in the plastic container I placed under the fitting before leaving for cooler weather. I just tightened the fitting a little more and the drips are reduced to 2 per day. Am thinking about using a thread sealant on the fitting and RTV on the gaskets. Or, is there a silicone gasket available? Also, is a silicone gasket for the valve covers worth the expense to stop leaking? Or, a combination of silicone gasket and Ultra Permatex? I have aluminum alloy valve cover. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 11:51 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold _____ From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com >; 'Healey List' > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 13 11:51:32 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 13:51:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> Message-ID: in the hole Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 12, 2020, 12:41 PM wrote: > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of > oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated > up. > > > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not > exceed 60 psi? > > > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down > inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on > the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > > [image: Image] > > Jonas > > > > > > *From:* Jonas Payne > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > *To:* Jonas Payne > *Subject:* Pic > > > > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27508 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27508 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jan 13 13:45:42 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 15:45:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <5abe955f-1c16-8b9d-042b-af39abfe367e@comcast.net> References: <3455F45C83EC411BB837F1A07051A92A@AllInOne> <1915107764.11748731.1578756211640@mail.yahoo.com> <4E3CB5C6C8124347AFBD1A5D28A71625@AllInOne> <18A8CADBD88E433D8B2C399E8E435003@Inspiron660> <5abe955f-1c16-8b9d-042b-af39abfe367e@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob Spidell said *"I was leak free for the first 60 years ... "* I think it is unreasonable to ask of our cars more than we do of ourselves. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jan 12, 2020 at 12:58 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > I was leak free for the first 60 years ... > > On 1/11/2020 9:23 AM, Ron Fine wrote: > > I was sure I was going to be the first one to have a leak free Healey when > I rebuilt my engine/transmission in 2004. It was leak free for the first > year or so, but, after that I have the usual drips. I keep a piece of > cardboard under the car to keep track of the leaks. I assume that age and > use just opens up the leaks over time. > > Ron Fine > > > > *From:* Jean Caron > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 8:57 AM > *To:* Harold Manifold ; warthodson at aol.com ; 050.rpl at gmail.com ; > healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > > Harold, > > It is possible to have a leak free Austin-Healey, once the oil has all > drained out!!!!!!! > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Harold Manifold > *Sent: *January 11, 2020 10:53 AM > *To: *warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > > > Hello, > > > > All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an > article about synthetic oil leaks: > > > > Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out > gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any > sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because > Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than > conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional > oil (This is a good thing). > > > > I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe > it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts > and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on > my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. > > > > I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold > > > > *From:* warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com ] > > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Does synthetic oil leak more? > > I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to > be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules > are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" > come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic > oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com> <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' > > Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil > > > The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they > leak > more than non-synthetic. > > > > ------------------------------ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8EC61215FB34065BF524F75A322EF1F.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Jan 13 16:36:13 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 18:36:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator Message-ID: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> Listeners: I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature. Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification? Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 13 17:15:39 2020 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 00:15:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator In-Reply-To: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: 212 seems a bit warm; my BN7 runs constant 180 but at traffic stops hits 190 and vapor locks at 195_200 in the summer. I need to install heat shield under the carbs which I?ve had for 10 years to install and fuel line wrap to assist heat coming off the block. Regards, Richard C On Jan 13, 2020, at 17:36, Robert Begani wrote: ? Listeners: I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature. Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification? Bob Begani BJ8 67 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Jan 13 17:42:10 2020 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 00:42:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes In-Reply-To: References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <375394040.7306626.1578962530105@mail.yahoo.com> I've found that a good flushing of the engine block does more to improve cooling than any modifications to the cooling system.Drain all the cooling fluid from the engine and radiator, measure what comes out.? Compare that to what the capacity should be.? The difference will be the amount of crud that has built up in your engine over time. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android Hi On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 7:15 PM, Richard Collins wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Jan 13 17:59:21 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 19:59:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator In-Reply-To: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <030b01d5ca75$dc256400$94702c00$@rr.com> Bob, I had continual problems for years with "overheating" -as indicated by a gauge that wanted to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days. I tried a lot of things that either didn't work at all or seemed to make the problem worse. The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge at the 212 degree mark. Mine was reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a more modern core ($444). Any competent radiator shop will know how to do that to improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. I have neither a pusher fan or a "shovel", but I do have a Texas Kooler fan. It's normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after the engine is shut down when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving down the road at 2000 - 4000 RPM. In cooler weather my gauge will run at 165 - 170 when the engine is fully warmed up, and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 - 190. It goes to 212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I've paid attention to. I avoided having to pull the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it by using a portable Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the stove on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor could be immersed in the water. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Begani Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator Listeners: I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature. Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification? Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Mon Jan 13 18:06:58 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 17:06:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator In-Reply-To: <030b01d5ca75$dc256400$94702c00$@rr.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <030b01d5ca75$dc256400$94702c00$@rr.com> Message-ID: <000001d5ca76$ed77c9e0$c8675da0$@cox.net> Have you checked your temp independently? Sure it isn't your gauge? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 4:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator Bob, I had continual problems for years with "overheating" -as indicated by a gauge that wanted to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days. I tried a lot of things that either didn't work at all or seemed to make the problem worse. The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge at the 212 degree mark. Mine was reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a more modern core ($444). Any competent radiator shop will know how to do that to improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. I have neither a pusher fan or a "shovel", but I do have a Texas Kooler fan. It's normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after the engine is shut down when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving down the road at 2000 - 4000 RPM. In cooler weather my gauge will run at 165 - 170 when the engine is fully warmed up, and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 - 190. It goes to 212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I've paid attention to. I avoided having to pull the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it by using a portable Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the stove on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor could be immersed in the water. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Begani Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator Listeners: I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature. Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification? Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Mon Jan 13 18:10:46 2020 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 17:10:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes In-Reply-To: <375394040.7306626.1578962530105@mail.yahoo.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <375394040.7306626.1578962530105@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <235598BF5A1F4D98BC59EF878AD24227@Inspiron660> I agree with that point. When I had my engine out of the car and striped to rebuild it I opened up the expansion plugs and used a high pressure hose to wash out the water channels. There was about 2 inches of mud like crud at the bottom of the water jacket inside the block. It was shocking to see what spilled out on my driveway. After the rebuild I haven?t had any problems with over heating. Everything else on the car is standard except for an after market plastic fan. Ron Fine 61BN7 From: Ron Mitchell via Healeys Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 4:42 PM To: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com ; Robert Begani Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes I've found that a good flushing of the engine block does more to improve cooling than any modifications to the cooling system. Drain all the cooling fluid from the engine and radiator, measure what comes out. Compare that to what the capacity should be. The difference will be the amount of crud that has built up in your engine over time. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android Hi On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 7:15 PM, Richard Collins wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 14 01:38:32 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 09:38:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator In-Reply-To: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6e5ef8f0-052e-3228-01b8-a78fc6224f03@chello.nl> Check your temperature gauge first for accuracy and go from there. 212? F (100?C) at normal speed cannot be right so I am pretty sure the temp.gauge overreads.. If the radiator is still the original one have a new core installed with max. capacity. You can never have to much. A competent radiator shop will know what to do. Cleaning out a radiator is not really a good option. Does your fan operate via a thermo-switch or is it manually operated? Does the fan turn the right way. Is your thermostat the right spec in combination with the thermo-switch and working properly? In principle the temperature should be within small limits of the opening temperature of the thermostat most of the time, e.g. if you have a 82?C thermostat the temp. gauge should indicate something around 82-85?C, however in stop & go traffic it can rise until the thermo-switch lets the electric fan cut in which should be slightly less than 100?C. The temperature should fall than to about 87-90?C when the thermo-switch should cut out at about 5?C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2020 om 00:36 schreef Robert Begani: > > Listeners: > > I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or > deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to > keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down > the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will > rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is > nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling > capacity.? How many more core or tubes can be installed in the > standard BJ8 radiator.? For those of you who have done this > modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the > coolant temperature?? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator > because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature. > > Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket > to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float > bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification? > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 67 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Jan 14 10:24:29 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 12:24:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <5e1d01ac.1c69fb81.28cd7.4c9fSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <08de01d5caf6$d90e5b60$8b2b1220$@gmail.com> <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? Bob From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Hi Perry: I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jan 14 10:35:31 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 18:35:31 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <5e1d01ac.1c69fb81.28cd7.4c9fSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <08de01d5caf6$d90e5b60$8b2b1220$@gmail.com> <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1a00573f-d00e-64c4-5ffb-eb117f0dc8bd@chello.nl> Did you also check the ignition timing and fuel mixture? A lean engine gets hot so does incorrect timing of the ignition. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-1-2020 om 18:24 schreef Robert Begani: > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter > day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising > to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail > on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make > driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the > stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because > the temperature does not go down only up. ?So the next step is to > re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and > for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at > least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the > Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust > manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, > everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring > it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification > is the 20 over pistons. > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who > knows? > > Bob > > *From:* Perry > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes > to theexisting radiator > > Bob > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car > should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. > There is something else amiss in the equation. > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Robert Begani > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > *To: *'Perry' > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes > to theexisting radiator > > Hi Perry: > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by > Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it > really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and > standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the > engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference > indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 14 10:58:36 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 12:58:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <5e1d01ac.1c69fb81.28cd7.4c9fSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <08de01d5caf6$d90e5b60$8b2b1220$@gmail.com> <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: "Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?" Bob that has perplexed me for decades but certainly seems to be reality. Good luck with your modifications ... I have always found that additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference. M On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, wrote: > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day > is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a > high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the > Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a > hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to > handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does > not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The > local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core > using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. > This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think > about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, > everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up > to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 > over pistons. > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who > knows? > > > > Bob > > > > *From:* Perry > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator > > > > Bob > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car > should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There > is something else amiss in the equation. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Robert Begani > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > *To: *'Perry' > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss > with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really > pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. > I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was > searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not > recommended as they act against each other. > > > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Jan 14 11:06:48 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 18:06:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator References: <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677@mail.yahoo.com> I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator #yiv1047233329 #yiv1047233329 #yiv1047233329 -- filtered {}#yiv1047233329 filtered {}#yiv1047233329 p.yiv1047233329MsoNormal, #yiv1047233329 li.yiv1047233329MsoNormal, #yiv1047233329 div.yiv1047233329MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv1047233329 a:link, #yiv1047233329 span.yiv1047233329MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1047233329 a:visited, #yiv1047233329 span.yiv1047233329MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1047233329 p.yiv1047233329msonormal0, #yiv1047233329 li.yiv1047233329msonormal0, #yiv1047233329 div.yiv1047233329msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv1047233329 span.yiv1047233329EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv1047233329 .yiv1047233329MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv1047233329 filtered {}#yiv1047233329 div.yiv1047233329WordSection1 {}#yiv1047233329 #yiv1047233329 I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. ?So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ?What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ?By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ?Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ?Bob ?From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?Hi Perry: ?I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ?Bob ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 14 12:41:06 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 11:41:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <5e1d01ac.1c69fb81.28cd7.4c9fSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <08de01d5caf6$d90e5b60$8b2b1220$@gmail.com> <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <31523bd3-64fe-36d2-6fbf-b65edfc132c3@comcast.net> I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > "Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, > who knows?" > > Bob that has perplexed?me for decades but certainly seems to be reality. > Good luck with your modifications? ... I? have always found that > additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference. > > M > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, > wrote: > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool > winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees > and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great > for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. > However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough > cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and > have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only > up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local > radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core > using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling > capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? > Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers > to stop vapor lock. > > What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, > everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to > bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only > modification is the 20 over pistons. > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, > who knows? > > Bob > > *From:* Perry > > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core > tubes to theexisting radiator > > Bob > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the > car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock > radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > Perry > > Sent from Mail > for Windows 10 > > *From: *Robert Begani > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > *To: *'Perry' > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core > tubes to theexisting radiator > > Hi Perry: > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered > by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a > pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low > speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade > fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one > reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against > each other. > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Jan 14 14:28:17 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 21:28:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator References: <393418762.13446770.1579037297703.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <393418762.13446770.1579037297703@mail.yahoo.com> If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 14 14:31:48 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 13:31:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <393418762.13446770.1579037297703@mail.yahoo.com> References: <393418762.13446770.1579037297703.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <393418762.13446770.1579037297703@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9027e67f-7817-4b56-7fe9-43132bc3ccc9@comcast.net> Nope.? Have confirmed thermostat's function, tried several and others report their cars do the same.? No one knows why. On 1/14/2020 1:28 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees > on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! > > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes > to theexisting radiator > > I have a BJ8 with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - Texas Cooler fan > - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly > tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat > - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold > > ... and a BN2/100M with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - OEM art deco fan > - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working > on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat > - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only > > Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on > cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot > (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up > a long grade. > > FWIW > > Bob > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Tue Jan 14 15:57:33 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 17:57:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <31523bd3-64fe-36d2-6fbf-b65edfc132c3@comcast.net> References: <07a901d5ca6a$3e7f9370$bb7eba50$@gmail.com> <5e1d01ac.1c69fb81.28cd7.4c9fSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <08de01d5caf6$d90e5b60$8b2b1220$@gmail.com> <5e1df06f.1c69fb81.e1d4d.e51eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <095301d5caff$7ae70790$70b516b0$@gmail.com> <31523bd3-64fe-36d2-6fbf-b65edfc132c3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0b3001d5cb2e$024d9270$06e8b750$@gmail.com> Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program. The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job. Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan. I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot. However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works. But, still the temperature rises Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe. Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting. Will keep you all informed of the progress. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jan 14 16:04:11 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 18:04:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a > thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either > that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be > essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Begani > To: 'Perry' > Cc: healeys > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day > is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a > high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the > Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a > hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to > handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does > not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The > local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core > using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. > This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think > about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, > everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up > to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 > over pistons. > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who > knows? > > Bob > > *From:* Perry > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator > > Bob > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car > should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There > is something else amiss in the equation. > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Robert Begani > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > *To: *'Perry' > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator > > Hi Perry: > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss > with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really > pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. > I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was > searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not > recommended as they act against each other. > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Tue Jan 14 16:52:52 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:52:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: References: <1965904635.393741700.1579045880355.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <1689557776.393743937.1579045972555.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on.Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk.rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiatorI agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? Bob From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AMTo: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Robert BeganiSent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AMTo: 'Perry'Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Hi Perry: I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 14 18:09:31 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2020 12:09:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator In-Reply-To: References: <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1121164567.13345141.1579025208677@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <88A5E4B5-BA60-4573-8F9B-5D074D36BD4E@gmail.com> Same. Wrapped my steel headers in 1995. No issues to date with them. Replaced mufflers twice, but that's a road abrasion issue due to my lack of ground clearance... Best Chris > On 15 Jan 2020, at 10:04 am, Michael Oritt wrote: > > Robert-- > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > Best--Michael Oritt > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >> I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Robert Begani >> To: 'Perry' >> Cc: healeys >> Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator >> >> I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. >> >> What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? >> >> By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. >> >> Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? >> >> Bob >> >> From: Perry >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM >> To: Robert Begani >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator >> >> Bob >> With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. >> Perry >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: Robert Begani >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM >> To: 'Perry' >> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator >> >> Hi Perry: >> >> I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jan 14 18:44:47 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 20:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <1689557776.393743937.1579045972555.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1965904635.393741700.1579045880355.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1689557776.393743937.1579045972555.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Roger The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought. My thermodynamics classes were long ago and I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list. Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. Perry ?Bob With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.? Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.? I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together ?I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.?? I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ? What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ? Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ? Bob ? From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Hi Perry: ? I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ? Bob ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jan 14 18:44:47 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 20:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator In-Reply-To: <1689557776.393743937.1579045972555.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1965904635.393741700.1579045880355.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <1689557776.393743937.1579045972555.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Roger The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought. My thermodynamics classes were long ago and I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list. Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. Perry ?Bob With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.? Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.? I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together ?I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.?? I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ? What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ? Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ? Bob ? From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Hi Perry: ? I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ? Bob ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 14 19:20:30 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 18:20:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN Message-ID: <4ff59614-72c5-97d9-1dd1-63ea2500f9dd@comcast.net> Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html From ynotink at msn.com Tue Jan 14 20:18:04 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2020 03:18:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN In-Reply-To: <4ff59614-72c5-97d9-1dd1-63ea2500f9dd@comcast.net> References: <4ff59614-72c5-97d9-1dd1-63ea2500f9dd@comcast.net> Message-ID: Not funny! We just bought a 2019 Camry... I wonder if a Mr. Gasket pump will work there? Fixed my Healey. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 2:20 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allan-peters at sky.com Wed Jan 15 13:46:53 2020 From: allan-peters at sky.com (allan-peters at sky.com) Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2020 20:46:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 18 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1049912522.20267542.1579121214007@mail.yahoo.com> The? ALLOY? Radiators from Wizard Cooling will? solve your cooling problems. my 100 temp dropped to around? 90 in? summer.So? Florida Sun should be no problem !! On Thursday, 16 January 2020, 08:00:16 GMT+13, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell) ? 2. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (warthodson at aol.com) ? 3. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell) ? 4. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Robert Begani) ? 5. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Michael Oritt) ? 6. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Roger Grace) ? 7. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to ? ? ? theexisting radiator (Chris Dimmock) ? 8. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes ? ? ? totheexisting radiator (Perry) ? 9. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes ? ? ? totheexisting radiator (Perry) ? 10. [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of ? ? ? issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (Bob Spidell) ? 11. Re: [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because ? ? ? of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: "Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?" Bob that has perplexed?me for decades but certainly seems to be reality. Good luck with your modifications? ... I? have always found that additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference.? M On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, wrote: I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ? What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ? Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ? Bob ? From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Hi Perry: ? I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ? Bob If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob Nope.? Have confirmed thermostat's function, tried several and others report their cars do the same.? No one knows why. On 1/14/2020 1:28 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program.? The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job. ? Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan.? I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot.? However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works.? But, still the temperature rises Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe. ? Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting.? Will keep you all informed of the progress. ? Bob Begani 67 ?BJ8 ? ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? I have a BJ8 with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - Texas Cooler fan - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold ... and a BN2/100M with: - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core - OEM art deco fan - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. FWIW Bob ? Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.??I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ?What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ?By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ?Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ?Bob ?From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?Hi Perry: ?I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ?Bob ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com #yiv1073365818 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.??I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ?What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ?By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ?Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ?Bob ?From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator?BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.Perry?Sent from Mail for Windows 10?From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator?Hi Perry: ?I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ?Bob? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com Same.?Wrapped my steel headers in 1995.?No issues to date with them.?Replaced mufflers twice, but that's a road abrasion issue due to my lack of ground clearance...BestChris On 15 Jan 2020, at 10:04 am, Michael Oritt wrote: Robert-- I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.??I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ?What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ?By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ?Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ?Bob ?From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ?Hi Perry: ?I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ?Bob ?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com Roger The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought.? My thermodynamics classes were long ago and ?I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list.? Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. Perry ? ?Bob With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.? Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.? I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together ?I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. P ? ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator ? Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. rg ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Robert-- ? I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.?? I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? ? Best--Michael Oritt ? On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ? What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ? Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ? Bob ? From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Hi Perry: ? I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ? Bob ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com ? ? ? ? Roger The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought.? My thermodynamics classes were long ago and ?I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list.? Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. Perry ? ?Bob With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.? Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.? I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together ?I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. P ? ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator ? Just a thought ... Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. It had minor improvement for me in traffic. I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. Works really well in conjuction with an E fan The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. rg ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Oritt To: warthodson at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Robert-- ? I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early?demise due to rust.?? I was told that?18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.??? ? Best--Michael Oritt ? On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.?? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Begani To: 'Perry' Cc: healeys Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.? Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.? However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.? So the next step is to re-core the radiator.? The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.? This is a SKI purchase.? Spend the Kids Inheritance.? Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. ? What do you think about Push and Pull?? Take off the engine fan? ? By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.? He knows what to do.? The only modification is the 20 over pistons.? ? Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? ? Bob ? From: Perry Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM To: Robert Begani Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Bob With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Robert Begani Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM To: 'Perry' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator ? Hi Perry: ? I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.? As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.? As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. ? Bob ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html ? Suggested annual donation? $12.75 ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com ? ? ? ? Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html #yiv1073365818 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Not funny! We just bought a 2019 Camry... I wonder if a Mr. Gasket pump will work there? Fixed my Healey. Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 2:20 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN?Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives:? http://autox.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From r.alkins001 at comcast.net Wed Jan 15 13:56:49 2020 From: r.alkins001 at comcast.net (Randy Alkins) Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2020 15:56:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 18 In-Reply-To: <1049912522.20267542.1579121214007@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1049912522.20267542.1579121214007@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <303562782.325633.1579121809935@connect.xfinity.com> Agree with Allen on WIzard and have a 160 thermo with electric fan in front of rad. temp runs about 175 and stalled in traffic about 195. I did flush engine with Tide detergent(drive car around for about and hour to circulate then drain and rinse with fresh water while engine is running) > On January 15, 2020 at 3:46 PM "allan-peters at sky.com" wrote: > > > > The ALLOY Radiators from Wizard Cooling will solve your cooling problems. my 100 temp dropped to around 90 in summer. > So Florida Sun should be no problem !! > > > On Thursday, 16 January 2020, 08:00:16 GMT+13, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net mailto:healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net mailto:healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell) > 2. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator ( warthodson at aol.com mailto:warthodson at aol.com ) > 3. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell) > 4. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Robert Begani) > 5. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Michael Oritt) > 6. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Roger Grace) > 7. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to > theexisting radiator (Chris Dimmock) > 8. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes > totheexisting radiator (Perry) > 9. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes > totheexisting radiator (Perry) > 10. [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of > issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (Bob Spidell) > 11. Re: [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because > of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) > I have a BJ8 with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - Texas Cooler fan > - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat > - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold > > ... and a BN2/100M with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - OEM art deco fan > - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat > - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only > > Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. > > FWIW > > Bob > > > > On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > > > "Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?" > > > > Bob that has perplexed me for decades but certainly seems to be reality. > > Good luck with your modifications ... I have always found that additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference. > > > > M > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > > > > > > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > > > > > > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > > > > > > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Perry > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > > To: Robert Begani > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > > > > > Perry > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > > > > > > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! > > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > I have a BJ8 with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - Texas Cooler fan > - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat > - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold > > ... and a BN2/100M with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - OEM art deco fan > - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat > - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only > > Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. > > FWIW > > Bob > > > > > Nope. Have confirmed thermostat's function, tried several and others report their cars do the same. No one knows why. > > On 1/14/2020 1:28 PM, warthodson at aol.com mailto:warthodson at aol.com wrote: > > > > If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! > > > > Gary Hodson > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Bob Spidell mailto:bspidell at comcast.net > > To: healeys mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I have a BJ8 with: > > > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > > - Texas Cooler fan > > - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat > > - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold > > > > ... and a BN2/100M with: > > > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > > - OEM art deco fan > > - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat > > - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only > > > > Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. > > > > FWIW > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program. The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job. > > > > Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan. I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot. However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works. But, still the temperature rises > > Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe. > > > > Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting. Will keep you all informed of the progress. > > > > Bob Begani > > 67 BJ8 > > > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I have a BJ8 with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - Texas Cooler fan > - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat > - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold > > ... and a BN2/100M with: > > - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core > - OEM art deco fan > - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat > - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only > > Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade. > > FWIW > > Bob > > > > Robert-- > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > To: 'Perry' < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > Cc: healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > Bob > > > > From: Perry < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > To: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Bob > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > Just a thought ... > Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. > However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. > So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. > So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. > It had minor improvement for me in traffic. > I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. > Works really well in conjuction with an E fan > The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. > Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. > So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. > Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. > rg > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Oritt > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: Austin Healey > Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > Robert-- > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > > > To: 'Perry' < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > > > Cc: healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > > > > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > Bob > > > > From: Perry < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > To: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Bob > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > Same. > Wrapped my steel headers in 1995. > No issues to date with them. > Replaced mufflers twice, but that's a road abrasion issue due to my lack of ground clearance... > Best > Chris > > > On 15 Jan 2020, at 10:04 am, Michael Oritt < michael.oritt at gmail.com mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > > Robert-- > > > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > > > > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > > To: 'Perry' < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > > Cc: healeys < healeys at autox.team.net mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > > > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > From: Perry < healeyguy at aol.com mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > > To: Robert Begani < rfbegani at gmail.com mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > Bob > > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > > Perry > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > > > > > > > Roger > > The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought. My thermodynamics classes were long ago and I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. > > I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list. Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. > > Perry > > > > ?Bob > > With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed. Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. > > On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud. I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. > > Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. > > P > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > From: Roger Grace mailto:roggrace at telus.net > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM > To: Michael Oritt mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com > Cc: Austin Healey mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator > > > > Just a thought ... > > Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. > > However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. > > So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. > > So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. > > It had minor improvement for me in traffic. > > I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. > > Works really well in conjuction with an E fan > > The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. > > Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. > > So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. > > Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. > > rg > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Oritt > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: Austin Healey > Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Robert-- > > > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > > > > > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Robert Begani > > > > To: 'Perry' > > > > Cc: healeys > > > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > From: Perry > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > To: Robert Begani > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > > > Perry > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Roger > > The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought. My thermodynamics classes were long ago and I really wasn?t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. > > I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list. Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild. > > Perry > > > > ?Bob > > With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed. Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100?s. > > On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud. I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. > > Ok Bob, while I?m putting this email together I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. > > P > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > From: Roger Grace mailto:roggrace at telus.net > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM > To: Michael Oritt mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com > Cc: Austin Healey mailto:healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator > > > > Just a thought ... > > Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow. > > However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed. > > So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2. > > So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect. > > It had minor improvement for me in traffic. > > I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling. > > Works really well in conjuction with an E fan > > The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose. > > Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. > > So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on. > > Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk. > > rg > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael Oritt > To: warthodson at aol.com > Cc: Austin Healey > Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > Robert-- > > > > I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust. > > I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact. > > > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > > > > > I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Robert Begani > > > > To: 'Perry' > > > > Cc: healeys > > > > Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour. However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance. Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock. > > > > > > > > What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan? > > > > > > > > By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only modification is the 20 over pistons. > > > > > > > > Why do other Healey?s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows? > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > From: Perry > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM > > To: Robert Begani > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. > > > > Perry > > > > > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10 > > > > > > > > From: Robert Begani mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com > > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM > > To: 'Perry' mailto:healeyguy at aol.com > > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator > > > > > > > > Hi Perry: > > > > > > > > I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other. > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? > > https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html > > > > Not funny! We just bought a 2019 Camry... > > I wonder if a Mr. Gasket pump will work there? Fixed my Healey. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > > > --------------------------------------------- > From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 2:20 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN > > Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota? > > https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r.alkins001 at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 16 12:08:30 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 19:08:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Relevant References: <50538259.12910.1579201710491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> In an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how my tach in my 69 GT would die when the headlights were turned on.? Someone mentioned that the tach was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument.? That turned out to be true, somewhat.? To test this I pulled the instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture.? One arrow points to the ground connection on the back of the case and the other arrow points to a common ground just floating around behind the instrument.? For an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector over the threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved the tach back into place temporarily to find out about the missing ground theory.? It worked!? You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you?? The light had not illuminated the instrument before either, so after scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of the tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait there's more!? After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on the test drive.? Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light comes on.? I just love electrical problems.? Not in my element here.? Any ideas?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Tach2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 266966 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 16 12:38:13 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 14:38:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Relevant In-Reply-To: <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <50538259.12910.1579201710491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: A stiff drink !!! M On Thu, Jan 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > In an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how my tach in my 69 GT > would die when the headlights were turned on. Someone mentioned that the > tach was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument. > That turned out to be true, somewhat. To test this I pulled the instrument > to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture. One arrow > points to the ground connection on the back of the case and the other arrow > points to a common ground just floating around behind the instrument. For > an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector over the threaded mouting > stud of the case back and shoved the tach back into place temporarily to > find out about the missing ground theory. It worked! You didn't think it > was going to be that easy did you? The light had not illuminated the > instrument before either, so after scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and > the tube fitting on the back of the tach that the bulb shoves into, the > light worked too, but wait there's more! After this hollow victory I had > to use the horn on the test drive. Now the horn does not work, but when I > push on the steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning > light comes on. I just love electrical problems. Not in my element here. > Any ideas? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Jan 16 12:58:19 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 19:58:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Relevant In-Reply-To: References: <50538259.12910.1579201710491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1709186588.77918.1579204699584@mail.yahoo.com> How did you know that's the start of all my tech sessions!? ;^)Mike M On Thursday, January 16, 2020, 11:38:26 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: A stiff drink !!! M On Thu, Jan 16, 2020 at 2:09 PM Michael MacLean wrote: In an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how my tach in my 69 GT would die when the headlights were turned on.? Someone mentioned that the tach was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument.? That turned out to be true, somewhat.? To test this I pulled the instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture.? One arrow points to the ground connection on the back of the case and the other arrow points to a common ground just floating around behind the instrument.? For an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector over the threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved the tach back into place temporarily to find out about the missing ground theory.? It worked!? You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you?? The light had not illuminated the instrument before either, so after scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of the tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait there's more!? After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on the test drive.? Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light comes on.? I just love electrical problems.? Not in my element here.? Any ideas?Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jan 16 14:23:30 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 16:23:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Brake Pads and Rotors Message-ID: ?I recently changed and repacked my front bearings and installed new pads. I used Bosch brake pads which I think must be slightly thicker. When I test drove the car I could tell that the pads were very slightly engaged. I presume this will go away with time but wonder if I?m causing damage. The bigger issue is that when I drive straight away there seems to be a slight metallic rubbing sound. When I put the car on jack stands and turn the wheels by hand, there is a slight rubbing if I move the tires as if the car is moving forward but find it extremely hard to turn the tires by hand in the direction they would turn if backing up. Also, when I make a turn, the slight sound becomes very pronounced and ?rattle like.? I think something may be rubbing against the dust covers. When I spun the tires before putting the wheels on I could hear the same sound. Could the disk be warped and or the dust cover bent? I eyed the disc and it doesn?t seem to wobble but then the brake shoes may be keeping it in line. Can the dust cover be straightened (or bent away from the rotor) or do I need to buy new parts? If the suggestion is to replace the rotors, should I go for the $200 drilled/slotted rotors or spend $58 for the standard version? (I do not drive the car hard or race it.) Thank you for any help you can provide! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Jan 16 14:46:33 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 16:46:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Brake Pads and Rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Price, IMHO something is wrong with what has been done. My thoughts.. I would suggest that you first check that the brake rotor is centered in the caliper. The dust shields can be easily bent back a little to clear the caliper but if you didn't have a rubbing problem before the work it is unlikely that the shields are the problem because you should not have needed to take them off. Are you sure that you reinstalled the BTC431 spacers that go onto the stub axles before anything else? M On Thu, Jan 16, 2020, 4:23 PM R. Lindsay, <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > I recently changed and repacked my front bearings and installed new pads. > I used Bosch brake pads which I think must be slightly thicker. When I test > drove the car I could tell that the pads were very slightly engaged. I > presume this will go away with time but wonder if I?m causing damage. > > The bigger issue is that when I drive straight away there seems to be a > slight metallic rubbing sound. When I put the car on jack stands and turn > the wheels by hand, there is a slight rubbing if I move the tires as if the > car is moving forward but find it extremely hard to turn the tires by hand > in the direction they would turn if backing up. > > Also, when I make a turn, the slight sound becomes very pronounced and > ?rattle like.? I think something may be rubbing against the dust covers. > When I spun the tires before putting the wheels on I could hear the same > sound. Could the disk be warped and or the dust cover bent? I eyed the > disc and it doesn?t seem to wobble but then the brake shoes may be keeping > it in line. Can the dust cover be straightened (or bent away from the > rotor) or do I need to buy new parts? > > If the suggestion is to replace the rotors, should I go for the $200 > drilled/slotted rotors or spend $58 for the standard version? (I do not > drive the car hard or race it.) > > Thank you for any help you can provide! > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jan 16 15:25:47 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 17:25:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Brake Pads and Rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I put everything in as the manual says - spacer, washer with notch, shims, etc. I will take the calipers off and see where that leads me. Thanks. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 16, 2020, at 4:43 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Price, IMHO something is wrong with what has been done. > My thoughts.. > I would suggest that you first check that the brake rotor is centered in the caliper. > The dust shields can be easily bent back a little to clear the caliper but if you didn't have a rubbing problem before the work it is unlikely that the shields are the problem because you should not have needed to take them off. > Are you sure that you reinstalled the BTC431 spacers that go onto the stub axles before anything else? > > M > >> On Thu, Jan 16, 2020, 4:23 PM R. Lindsay, <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: >> I recently changed and repacked my front bearings and installed new pads. I used Bosch brake pads which I think must be slightly thicker. When I test drove the car I could tell that the pads were very slightly engaged. I presume this will go away with time but wonder if I?m causing damage. >> >> The bigger issue is that when I drive straight away there seems to be a slight metallic rubbing sound. When I put the car on jack stands and turn the wheels by hand, there is a slight rubbing if I move the tires as if the car is moving forward but find it extremely hard to turn the tires by hand in the direction they would turn if backing up. >> >> Also, when I make a turn, the slight sound becomes very pronounced and ?rattle like.? I think something may be rubbing against the dust covers. When I spun the tires before putting the wheels on I could hear the same sound. Could the disk be warped and or the dust cover bent? I eyed the disc and it doesn?t seem to wobble but then the brake shoes may be keeping it in line. Can the dust cover be straightened (or bent away from the rotor) or do I need to buy new parts? >> >> If the suggestion is to replace the rotors, should I go for the $200 drilled/slotted rotors or spend $58 for the standard version? (I do not drive the car hard or race it.) >> >> Thank you for any help you can provide! >> >> Price Lindsay >> 67 BJ8 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Jan 16 16:35:22 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 15:35:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Relevant In-Reply-To: <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <50538259.12910.1579201710491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <50538259.12910.1579201710491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <022901d5ccc5$a10b3eb0$e321bc10$@roadrunner.com> Many years ago, a friend had an MGB. The trafficator lever was a little balky, so we sprayed some contact cleaner into it and the radio quit working. Then the panel light dimmer let smoke out. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2020 11:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey, but Relevant In an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how my tach in my 69 GT would die when the headlights were turned on. Someone mentioned that the tach was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument. That turned out to be true, somewhat. To test this I pulled the instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture. One arrow points to the ground connection on the back of the case and the other arrow points to a common ground just floating around behind the instrument. For an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector over the threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved the tach back into place temporarily to find out about the missing ground theory. It worked! You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you? The light had not illuminated the instrument before either, so after scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of the tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait there's more! After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on the test drive. Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light comes on. I just love electrical problems. Not in my element here. Any ideas? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Jan 16 18:55:37 2020 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 01:55:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Front Brake Pads and Rotors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <747391085.35278.1579226137158@mail.yahoo.com> Before you go to too much fuss and bother ... I would try "re-compressing" the pads ..(like you did when you removed the old ones) .. all calipers that I've torn apart have a "square O-ring" on the caliper piston ..when the piston moves due to hydrolic pressure on the backside, this square o-ring deforms ..sliding against the caliper bore...when the ,pressure is removed, the o-ring? returns? to normal square shape ...this pull the piston back into the bore,...giving floating clearance between the pads and the rotor...If the piston was not fully retracted into the caliper bore, MAYBE this o-ring is not being deformed enough How much gap did you have on the new pads when you installed them?? should have been an easy/sloppy fit Jim On Thursday, January 16, 2020, 9:23:49 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: I recently changed and repacked my front bearings and installed new pads. I used Bosch brake pads which I think must be slightly thicker. When I test drove the car I could tell that the pads were very slightly engaged. I presume this will go away with time but wonder if I?m causing damage. The bigger issue is that when I drive straight away there seems to be a slight metallic rubbing sound.? When I put the car on jack stands and turn the wheels by hand, there is a slight rubbing if I move the tires as if the car is moving forward but find it extremely hard to turn the tires by hand in the direction they would turn if backing up. Also, when I make a turn, the slight sound becomes very pronounced and ?rattle like.?? I think something may be rubbing against the dust covers. When I spun the tires before putting the wheels on I could hear the same sound. Could the disk be warped and or the dust cover bent?? I eyed the disc and it doesn?t seem to wobble but then the brake shoes may be keeping it in line. Can the dust cover be straightened (or bent away from the rotor) or do I need to buy new parts? If the suggestion is to replace the rotors, should I go for the $200 drilled/slotted rotors or spend $58 for the standard version?? (I do not drive the car hard or race it.) Thank you for any help you can provide! Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david at dleong.org Fri Jan 17 01:59:17 2020 From: david at dleong.org (David Leong) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 08:59:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Message-ID: [cid:image001.jpg at 01D5CCD1.56306120] Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 124147 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Jan 17 02:16:34 2020 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 19:16:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <752402$88toil@icp-osb-irony-out8.iinet.net.au> Australians Ashton Roskill & Giles Cooper on 2019 Peking-Paris. https://austin-healeypekingtoparis2019.blogspot.com/2017/01/0000-about-us.html Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Leong Sent: Friday, 17 January 2020 7:00 PM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 12C0ED93736C4D09948B5D85A2FCA7C6.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 77044 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Jan 17 06:45:56 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 13:45:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: <752402$88toil@icp-osb-irony-out8.iinet.net.au> References: , <752402$88toil@icp-osb-irony-out8.iinet.net.au> Message-ID: Dave, You can also read about the story of the car and its crew on the Peking to Paris Rally in the November/December 2019 issue of the Austin-Healey Club USA Magazine, there is an 8 pages featured article about it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Peter & Veronica Sent: January 17, 2020 3:17 AM To: David Leong; 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Australians Ashton Roskill & Giles Cooper on 2019 Peking-Paris. https://austin-healeypekingtoparis2019.blogspot.com/2017/01/0000-about-us.html Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Leong Sent: Friday, 17 January 2020 7:00 PM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? [cid:image001.jpg at 01D5CCD1.56306120] Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E49508845DAB49A58F7C47B794C67503.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 77044 bytes Desc: E49508845DAB49A58F7C47B794C67503.jpg URL: From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com Sun Jan 12 13:05:58 2020 From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2020 20:05:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Jan 13 10:45:44 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 09:45:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Message-ID: <1e3075643dd97af90042336283dc481b351510bd@> Bob-that was another place the synthetic comes out...thru the threads. If you use anything, like pipe sealer or PTFE (teflon) just be careful not to get any near the entrance to your overdrive. Overdrive oil must be spotless due to the tiny drillings in the system. I was able to fix my seeps elsewhere with Permatex "Right Stuff" but be careful again to do a very neat job. I still recommend regular 30W non detergent mineral oil (as does the factory book) to refill the trans and OD. Some modern oils can foam in the overdrive and cause issues. Even though the factory manual states not to use sealant around the casing seal of the brake ring-that will leak with most synthetics and also seep with regular oil. Had to" Right stuff" the casing seam post rebuild to stop that seeping. Another place synthetic runs out is at the bottom casing plug. I do not have too much experience using silicone gaskets. I rebuilt with paper and aircraft sealer (old school-but original). I expected leaks or else it wouldn't be authentic British. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Robert Begani" To: "Harold Manifold" Cc: Sent: Monday January 13 2020 5:38:23AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? My problem is leaking from the brass drain fitting in the bottom of the overdrive. When I used motor oil eventually by tightening the fitting, the drips would stop. With the synthetic oil the drips will not stop. Over the summer, while the car was sitting in the garage, there was a puddle in the plastic container I placed under the fitting before leaving for cooler weather. I just tightened the fitting a little more and the drips are reduced to 2 per day. Am thinking about using a thread sealant on the fitting and RTV on the gaskets. Or, is there a silicone gasket available? Also, is a silicone gasket for the valve covers worth the expense to stop leaking? Or, a combination of silicone gasket and Ultra Permatex? I have aluminum alloy valve cover. Bob Begani FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Harold Manifold SENT: Saturday, January 11, 2020 11:51 AM TO: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold ------------------------- FROM: warthodson at aol.com [1] [mailto:warthodson at aol.com [2]] SENT: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM TO: manifold at telus.net [3]; 050.rpl at gmail.com [4]; healeys at autox.team.net [5] SUBJECT: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. Links: ------ [1] mailto:warthodson at aol.com [2] mailto:warthodson at aol.com [3] mailto:manifold at telus.net [4] mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com [5] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net [6] mailto:manifold at telus.net [7] mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com [8] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Jan 13 18:31:34 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 01:31:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes References: <1850448537.11055531.1578965494751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1850448537.11055531.1578965494751@mail.yahoo.com> I have to agree with the engine flushing as some suggest.? As Ron has done remove freeze plugs to the extent you can and be aggressive in the flushing.? Pressure washer, water hose, chemcals, etc.? Do it all.? Clear those small passages as best you can. -----Original Message----- From: Ron Fine To: healeyron ; gonnagitcha90 ; Robert Begani Cc: healeys Sent: Mon, Jan 13, 2020 8:16 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes I agree with that point.? When I had my engine out of the car and striped to rebuild it I opened up the expansion plugs and used a high pressure hose to wash out the water channels.? There was about 2 inches of mud like crud at the bottom of the water jacket inside the block. It was shocking to see what spilled out on my driveway.? After the rebuild I haven?t had any problems with over heating. Everything else on the car is standard except for an after market plastic fan.?Ron Fine61BN7?? ?From: Ron Mitchell via Healeys Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 4:42 PMTo: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com ; Robert Begani Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes?I've found that a good flushing of the engine block does more to improve cooling than any modifications to the cooling system. Drain all the cooling fluid from the engine and radiator, measure what comes out.? Compare that to what the capacity should be.? The difference will be the amount of crud that has built up in your engine over time. Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidHi On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 7:15 PM, Richard Collins wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon Jan 13 19:12:01 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 18:12:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <1e3075643dd97af90042336283dc481b351510bd@> References: <1e3075643dd97af90042336283dc481b351510bd@> Message-ID: <2A208FF7DF574236AA64B57914B7350C@AllInOne> I agree it is very important to keep any foreign material out of the overdrive unit. I have had good luck using Loctite Gasket Maker. See attached picture. I believe it is a similar product to Permatex The Right Stuff. Harold _____ From: gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 9:46 AM To: 'Robert Begani'; 'Harold Manifold'; 'warthodson at aol.com'; '050.rpl at gmail.com'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Bob-that was another place the synthetic comes out...thru the threads. If you use anything, like pipe sealer or PTFE (teflon) just be careful not to get any near the entrance to your overdrive. Overdrive oil must be spotless due to the tiny drillings in the system. I was able to fix my seeps elsewhere with Permatex "Right Stuff" but be careful again to do a very neat job. I still recommend regular 30W non detergent mineral oil (as does the factory book) to refill the trans and OD. Some modern oils can foam in the overdrive and cause issues. Even though the factory manual states not to use sealant around the casing seal of the brake ring-that will leak with most synthetics and also seep with regular oil. Had to" Right stuff" the casing seam post rebuild to stop that seeping. Another place synthetic runs out is at the bottom casing plug. I do not have too much experience using silicone gaskets. I rebuilt with paper and aircraft sealer (old school-but original). I expected leaks or else it wouldn't be authentic British. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Robert Begani" To: "Harold Manifold" Cc: Sent: Monday January 13 2020 5:38:23AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? My problem is leaking from the brass drain fitting in the bottom of the overdrive. When I used motor oil eventually by tightening the fitting, the drips would stop. With the synthetic oil the drips will not stop. Over the summer, while the car was sitting in the garage, there was a puddle in the plastic container I placed under the fitting before leaving for cooler weather. I just tightened the fitting a little more and the drips are reduced to 2 per day. Am thinking about using a thread sealant on the fitting and RTV on the gaskets. Or, is there a silicone gasket available? Also, is a silicone gasket for the valve covers worth the expense to stop leaking? Or, a combination of silicone gasket and Ultra Permatex? I have aluminum alloy valve cover. Bob Begani From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 11:51 AM To: warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? Hello, All of your observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an article about synthetic oil leaks: Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing neoprene washers on the fasteners. I may be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold _____ From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM To: manifold at telus.net; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Does synthetic oil leak more? I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How much more slippery is it? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'R. Lindsay' <050.rpl at gmail.com>; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Jan 10, 2020 7:55 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Oil The biggest difference you will notice with synthetic gear oils is they leak more than non-synthetic. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Loctite Ready Gasket Maker 2207527.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1979439 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Jan 17 09:13:32 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:13:32 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. Message-ID: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. So ..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat etc). The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with an angle grinder. I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained within the black arrows. I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a tad drastic Really appreciate your input on this Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Braces cut lines.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4798935 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 09:15:32 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 08:15:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 17 09:53:08 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 11:53:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fiberfab Jamaican Body References: <8CC47202-A38B-49AD-A3B5-99C990944DD4.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC47202-A38B-49AD-A3B5-99C990944DD4@aol.com> ?Listers Decided to bring this body home that I have had stored at a friends place for years. Time to see if there is any interest from anyone in Healey land for a project. Car was assembled on a early 3000 chassis which is not available anymore. Corvette tinted front windshield, Porsche rear glass and Karman Gaia door glass and regulators included. Fiberglass in good shape considering is more than 50 years old. Let me know. Suspect the question that will be most asked is how much. I don?t want to break any list rules but remember the freaked out folks 20 years ago at ?Y2K? ? Looking for something in that ballpark. Located in western Pennsylvania. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5868.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 36234 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5870.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 32335 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5871.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 29816 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5869.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 36840 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5867.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 36936 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From ah100register at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 09:54:00 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:54:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Jonas I would recommend a new spring; with this you should get the correct oil pressure. Using one that is not original might give problems. Best regards On Fri, 17 Jan 2020 at 15:50, Jonas Payne wrote: > My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the > spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t > working at 60psi. > > > > I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the > spring fits inside? > > > > Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is > ?smashed?. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > *We have Moved!* > > Our new offices are locted at: > > > > 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 > > Las Vegas, NV 89120 > > > > *From:* David Nock > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM > *To:* jpaynepbr at cox.net > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question > > > > The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. > > There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int > the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy > pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and > plu the hole up. > > David Nock > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of > oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated > up. > > > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not > exceed 60 psi? > > > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down > inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on > the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > > > > Jonas > > > > > > *From:* Jonas Payne > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > *To:* Jonas Payne > *Subject:* Pic > > > > > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 17 10:08:38 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 12:08:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil pressure relief References: <48F3F1DD-8C1A-406B-8A9E-D5BE90F54DD4.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <48F3F1DD-8C1A-406B-8A9E-D5BE90F54DD4@aol.com> David is correct. Relief cap has about 3 threads on it and the oil pan drain plug has about 6 threads. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5874.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 42225 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Jan 17 10:10:48 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 09:10:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne ; David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 17 10:36:41 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 09:36:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? In-Reply-To: <2A208FF7DF574236AA64B57914B7350C@AllInOne> References: <1e3075643dd97af90042336283dc481b351510bd@> <2A208FF7DF574236AA64B57914B7350C@AllInOne> Message-ID: I've learned from experience--aka 'the hard way'--that there are 'sealants' and 'adhesive sealants' (aka 'glue').? The adhesive sealants--while appropriate in some instances--can glue parts together, making them very hard to separate if the need arises.? My mechanic used black 'Right Stuff' and no gasket to seal my BJ8's pan to the block, and when I cracked the pan I hurt my elbow--apparently, permanently--sawing the pan off with a serrated knife. This is known; there are some photos on the 'net of people lifting a SBC by the intake manifold, which had been 'sealed' to the heads with Right Stuff. Bob ps.? Re: "Even though the factory manual states not to use sealant around the casing seal of the brake ring ..."? When I rebuilt my BJ8's OD a couple years ago I found evidence that a sealant was used--it was brownish/orangeish--and since I bought the car with 64K miles on it I don't believe it had ever been apart before.? I used one of the silicone sealants, and last I checked I had no leaking at the brake ring. On 1/13/2020 6:12 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > I agree it is very important to keep any foreign?material out of the > overdrive unit. I have had good luck?using Loctite Gasket Maker. See > attached picture. I believe it is a similar product to Permatex The > Right Stuff. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] > *Sent:* Monday, January 13, 2020 9:46 AM > *To:* 'Robert Begani'; 'Harold Manifold'; 'warthodson at aol.com'; > '050.rpl at gmail.com'; 'healeys at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Bob-that was another place the synthetic comes out...thru the threads. > If you use anything, like pipe sealer or PTFE (teflon) just be careful > not to get any near the entrance to your overdrive.? Overdrive oil > must be spotless due to the tiny drillings in the system. I was able > to fix my seeps elsewhere with Permatex "Right Stuff" but be careful > again to do a very neat job. I still recommend regular 30W non > detergent mineral oil (as does the factory book) to refill the trans > and OD. Some modern oils can foam in the overdrive and cause issues. > > Even though the factory manual states not to use sealant around the > casing seal of the brake ring-that will leak with most synthetics and > also seep with regular oil. Had to" Right stuff" the casing seam post > rebuild to stop that seeping. Another place synthetic runs out is at > the bottom casing plug. I do not have too much experience using > silicone gaskets.? I rebuilt with paper and aircraft sealer (old > school-but original).? I expected leaks or else it wouldn't be > authentic British. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Robert Begani" > To: "Harold Manifold" > Cc: > Sent: Monday January 13 2020 5:38:23AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > My problem is leaking from the brass drain fitting in the bottom of > the overdrive.? When I used motor oil eventually by tightening the > fitting, the drips would stop.? With the synthetic oil the drips will? > not stop.? Over the summer, while the car was sitting in the garage, > there was a puddle in the plastic container I placed under the fitting > before leaving for cooler weather.? I just tightened the fitting a > little more and the drips are reduced to 2 per day.? Am thinking about > using a thread sealant on the fitting and RTV on the gaskets.? Or, is > there a silicone gasket available? > > Also, is a silicone gasket for the valve covers worth the expense to > stop leaking?? Or, a combination of silicone gasket and Ultra > Permatex?? I have aluminum alloy valve cover. > > Bob Begani > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Harold > Manifold > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 11:51 AM > *To:* warthodson at aol.com; 050.rpl at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Does synthetic oil leak more? > > Hello, > > All of your?observations are a factor. Here are some comments from an > article about synthetic oil leaks: > > Synthetic oil WILL NOT cause leaks. It may however make already > worn-out gaskets/seals more evident, by leaking past them, and/or > cleaning any sludge and other gunk that was sealing the existing leak. > This is because Synthetic oil has much better cleaning properties, > flows much better than conventional oil, and hence also lubricates > much better than conventional oil (This is a good thing). > > I use a GL-4 synthetic gear oil in my transmission and it leaks. > Believe it not not one of the leak mechanisms is from the interior > along the bolts and drips from the bolt head on the exterior. I am > changing the gaskets on my transmission and trying bonded sealing > neoprene washers on the fasteners. > > I may?be pursuing the impossible dream of a leak free Healey.... Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*warthodson at aol.com > [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, January 11, 2020 7:24 AM > *To:* manifold at telus.net ; > 050.rpl at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net > > *Subject:* Does synthetic oil leak more? > > I am not a leak expert, but I find this hard to understand. For there > to be a leak there has to be a hole. Is it because the synthetic oil > molecules are smaller than the non-synthetic oil molecules? Given that > the "holes" come in different sizes this seems illogical. Is it > because the synthetic oil is more slippery? How is that measured? How > much more slippery is it? > > Gary Hodson > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jan 17 12:33:48 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 19:33:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. In-Reply-To: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Simon, When I installed two 10 inch Hayden fans on the front of the radiator of my 100 I needed some extra space between the radiator and the cross braces. They were already loose from the upper brace due to previous wear and tear so I bent them forward (in relation to the front of the car) at the base and re-landed them on a sheet metal angle piece that I had fabricated andspot welded to the front of the top brace. That gave, in this case, an extra 1" of clearance which simplified installation of the radiator with the fans attached.[cid:807cd2dc-5561-495a-adbe-104ec14f3023] ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:13 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. So?..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat etc). The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with an angle grinder. I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained within the black arrows. I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a tad drastic?? Really appreciate your input on this? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_0448.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3642558 bytes Desc: DSC_0448.JPG URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 12:38:52 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 11:38:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. In-Reply-To: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Hello Simon, It appears that your Internet provider won't let me reply to your address. It gets rejected as Spam so I have to send this comment to the list. -Roland Hello Simon, I don't have a BT7 to look at and I don't remember enough from our former BJ7 so I can't suggest something directly. In a BN1 you could just slide the fan and brackets in from the side after jacking up the front end and pulling a wheel. Getting all of the screws and nuts in place and tight would be a chore but workable with patience. However, given that you probably don't want to cut those angle iron braces, I would suggest applying your grinder to parts of your bracket kit instead, leaving your car as original as possible. -Roland On Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:13:32 -0000, you wrote: >I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in my >3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. > >So ..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair >of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat >etc). > >The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the >destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. > >But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. > From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 13:26:15 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 15:26:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. In-Reply-To: References: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Simon-- I don't think you should--or need to--do what you are contemplating. Though some say otherwise I think it is fine to mount the fan to the front of the cross-braces, or at least that is what I did and the fan definitely helps out when in traffic, etc. BTW I did not use a thermostatic switch for the fan as I believe one should be able to turn it on way before the car starts to overheat. Best--Michael Oritt On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 3:18 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Simon, When I installed two 10 inch Hayden fans on the front of the > radiator of my 100 I needed some extra space between the radiator and the > cross braces. They were already loose from the upper brace due to previous > wear and tear so I bent them forward (in relation to the front of the car) > at the base and re-landed them on a sheet metal angle piece that I had > fabricated andspot welded to the front of the top brace. That gave, in > this case, an extra 1" of clearance which simplified installation of the > radiator with the fans attached. > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* Friday, January 17, 2020 4:13 PM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. > > > I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in > my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. > > So?..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair > of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat > etc). > > The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the > destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. > > But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. > > It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little > scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything > precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the > same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and > out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the > fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. > > I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with > an angle grinder. > > I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I > think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with > the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the > radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides > about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. > > See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained within > the black arrows. > > I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a tad > drastic?? > > Really appreciate your input on this? > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_0448.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3642558 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 14:02:35 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:02:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes In-Reply-To: <1850448537.11055531.1578965494751@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1850448537.11055531.1578965494751.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1850448537.11055531.1578965494751@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can also confirm that the amount of rust and debris in the block is remarkable in many cases. I just finished a MkII engine rebuild that had at least 2" ... right up to the frost plugs ... M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 10:51 AM Keith Pennell via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have to agree with the engine flushing as some suggest. As Ron has done > remove freeze plugs to the extent you can and be aggressive in the > flushing. Pressure washer, water hose, chemcals, etc. Do it all. Clear > those small passages as best you can. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ron Fine > To: healeyron ; gonnagitcha90 < > gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>; Robert Begani > Cc: healeys > Sent: Mon, Jan 13, 2020 8:16 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes > > I agree with that point. When I had my engine out of the car and striped > to rebuild it I opened up the expansion plugs and used a high pressure hose > to wash out the water channels. There was about 2 inches of mud like crud > at the bottom of the water jacket inside the block. It was shocking to see > what spilled out on my driveway. After the rebuild I haven?t had any > problems with over heating. Everything else on the car is standard except > for an after market plastic fan. > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > > *From:* Ron Mitchell via Healeys > *Sent:* Monday, January 13, 2020 4:42 PM > *To:* gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com ; Robert Begani > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes > > I've found that a good flushing of the engine block does more to improve > cooling than any modifications to the cooling system. > Drain all the cooling fluid from the engine and radiator, measure what > comes out. Compare that to what the capacity should be. The difference > will be the amount of crud that has built up in your engine over time. > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > Hi > > On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 7:15 PM, Richard Collins > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 17 14:31:53 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 08:31:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009401d5cd7d$8a32aa80$9e97ff80$@tpg.com.au> Hello One of the publications I edit is The Oily Rag for the Historic Sports and Racing car Association. In the latest issue there is a five page article on the people, car and event. Should anyone like to see a digital copy let me know and I'll send it to you. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia (Where it's raining which is better than bushfires) From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Leong Sent: Friday, 17 January 2020 7:59 PM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42092 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 15:32:27 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 17:32:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> Message-ID: I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Bingo, > > > > Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for > a reference. > > > > Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the > machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. > > > > Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth > measured on Jim?s. > > > > > > > > *From:* David Nock > *Sent:* Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM > *To:* Jonas Payne ; David Nock < > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>; jpaynepbr at cox.net > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question > > > > Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think > that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. > > > > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > > > > *From:* Jonas Payne > > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM > > *To:* David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net > > *Cc:* Healeys > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question > > > > My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the > spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t > working at 60psi. > > > > I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the > spring fits inside? > > > > Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is > ?smashed?. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > *We have Moved!* > > Our new offices are locted at: > > > > 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 > > Las Vegas, NV 89120 > > > > *From:* David Nock > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM > *To:* jpaynepbr at cox.net > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question > > > > The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. > > There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int > the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy > pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and > plu the hole up. > > David Nock > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > > My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of > oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated > up. > > > > It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not > exceed 60 psi? > > > > I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down > inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on > the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. > > > > > > Jonas > > > > > > *From:* Jonas Payne > *Sent:* Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM > *To:* Jonas Payne > *Subject:* Pic > > > > > > > > Get Outlook for Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Jan 17 15:51:29 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 14:51:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: <009401d5cd7d$8a32aa80$9e97ff80$@tpg.com.au> References: <009401d5cd7d$8a32aa80$9e97ff80$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <001d01d5cd88$a9cf5040$fd6df0c0$@cox.net> Please send me one Jonas From: Healeys On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 1:32 PM To: 'David Leong' ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Hello One of the publications I edit is The Oily Rag for the Historic Sports and Racing car Association. In the latest issue there is a five page article on the people, car and event. Should anyone like to see a digital copy let me know and I'll send it to you. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia (Where it's raining which is better than bushfires) From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Leong Sent: Friday, 17 January 2020 7:59 PM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net )' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42092 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rubino at truespeed.ca Fri Jan 17 15:55:27 2020 From: rubino at truespeed.ca (Carl Rubino) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 17:55:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. In-Reply-To: References: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I fully agree with Michael. Installed mine with a thermostat in front of the cross members 12 years ago and have never had a heating problem or overflow. carl rubino From: Michael Oritt Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 3:26 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. Simon-- I don't think you should--or need to--do what you are contemplating. Though some say otherwise I think it is fine to mount the fan to the front of the cross-braces, or at least that is what I did and the fan definitely helps out when in traffic, etc. BTW I did not use a thermostatic switch for the fan as I believe one should be able to turn it on way before the car starts to overheat. Best--Michael Oritt On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 3:18 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: Simon, When I installed two 10 inch Hayden fans on the front of the radiator of my 100 I needed some extra space between the radiator and the cross braces. They were already loose from the upper brace due to previous wear and tear so I bent them forward (in relation to the front of the car) at the base and re-landed them on a sheet metal angle piece that I had fabricated andspot welded to the front of the top brace. That gave, in this case, an extra 1" of clearance which simplified installation of the radiator with the fans attached. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys on behalf of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:13 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. So?..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat etc). The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with an angle grinder. I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained within the black arrows. I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a tad drastic?? Really appreciate your input on this? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rubino at truespeed.ca -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_0448.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3642558 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Fri Jan 17 16:11:41 2020 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 15:11:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> Message-ID: <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> Except that Moss has a minimum order of $10 for online purchases. It often frustrates me when I need a small part to complete some repair. Ron From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne ; David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jan 17 17:26:21 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 00:26:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> , <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> Message-ID: Maybe try British Car Specialists. Not sure if they have a minimum or not. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ron Fine Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 11:11 PM To: Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Except that Moss has a minimum order of $10 for online purchases. It often frustrates me when I need a small part to complete some repair. Ron From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne ; David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jan 17 17:46:49 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:46:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. In-Reply-To: References: <000001d5cd51$11d5b180$35811480$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Whrn I leve in Los Angeles, i had a fan mounted in ftont of the cross bars and blew air through my radiator on a switch control. I have been playing with adding a fan to my car again as summers are heating up around my parts. I pulled the radiator and the fan, but found I did not have room between the water pump and radiator. I recently bought a slim 10" fan, thermostat and manual switch. I have not tried installing it yet as I have other projects. I did flush my block, and had my radiator flow tested. It was very clean. HD cores were previously added. So if there is not enough room. I will mou t on the brackets, but make a shroud to funnel the air at the radiator. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Fri, Jan 17, 2020, 1:21 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > Simon-- > > I don't think you should--or need to--do what you are contemplating. > Though some say otherwise I think it is fine to mount the fan to the front > of the cross-braces, or at least that is what I did and the fan definitely > helps out when in traffic, etc. BTW I did not use a thermostatic switch > for the fan as I believe one should be able to turn it on way before the > car starts to overheat. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 3:18 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: > >> Simon, When I installed two 10 inch Hayden fans on the front of the >> radiator of my 100 I needed some extra space between the radiator and the >> cross braces. They were already loose from the upper brace due to previous >> wear and tear so I bent them forward (in relation to the front of the car) >> at the base and re-landed them on a sheet metal angle piece that I had >> fabricated andspot welded to the front of the top brace. That gave, in >> this case, an extra 1" of clearance which simplified installation of the >> radiator with the fans attached. >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com >> *Sent:* Friday, January 17, 2020 4:13 PM >> *To:* 'Healeys' >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. >> >> >> I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in >> my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. >> >> So?..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a >> pair of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a >> thermostat etc). >> >> The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the >> destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. >> >> But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. >> >> It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little >> scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything >> precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the >> same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and >> out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the >> fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. >> >> I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with >> an angle grinder. >> >> I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I >> think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with >> the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the >> radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides >> about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. >> >> See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained >> within the black arrows. >> >> I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a >> tad drastic?? >> >> Really appreciate your input on this? >> >> Simon >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_0448.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3642558 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 18 10:09:02 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 12:09:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <018201d5ce21$fc9d5670$f5d80350$@sympatico.ca> That's a pin-up for the garage wall! Thanks David. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Leong Sent: January-17-20 3:59 AM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 41649 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sat Jan 18 18:02:59 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 17:02:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: Hi all, I purchased the replacement clutch slave cylinder from Moss for my 67 BJ8. The push rod appears to be too short to push far enough to disengage the clutch. The slave cylinder piston travels to its max but it seems there needs to be more travel to disengage the clutch. Have any of you had this issue? The car was missing the original slave cylinder so I can?t compare the rod length. Bruce Sent from my iPhone From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 18 21:11:44 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 23:11:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Bruce, before changing parts I would recommend some diagnosis. Typically installing a longer push rod will make no difference. The combination of master cylinder diameter, master cylinder piston travel and slave cylinder diameter will result in a specific slave cylinder travel. That distance of travel is designed to be sufficient to fully disengage the clutch. First I would suggest using an adjustable wrench on the clutch arm to ensure that when the clutch arm is moved toward the rear of the car that the clutch does indeed disengage. You can check that by turning the prop shaft with the gearbox in gear whilst the arm is moved back. Obviously at least 1 wheel must be off the ground. If the clutch does not release then the fault is within the clutch itself. If the clutch does indeed release the fault is almost certainly with the hydraulics. You will notice that it only takes about 3/4" of movement of the arm from the the point where the release bearing first contacts the clutch cover thrust plate until the clutch is fully released. This 3/4"is the travel that the slave cylinder piston and therefore the push rod must move to release the clutch. This you can observe and in fact measure by having an assistant depress the the clutch while you watch or measure the travel. If there is insufficient travel either there is air in the system or the wrong diameter cylinders are fitted. One mistake that many people make is having the bleed screw on the bottom rather than the top of the slave cylinder. Another common problem is a clutch hose that has collapsed internally but that usually manifests itself as a problem with slow clutch engagement. Hope that helps. M . On Sat, Jan 18, 2020, 8:04 PM Bruce Peters, wrote: > Hi all, > I purchased the replacement clutch slave cylinder from Moss for my 67 BJ8. > The push rod appears to be too short to push far enough to disengage the > clutch. The slave cylinder piston travels to its max but it seems there > needs to be more travel to disengage the clutch. Have any of you had this > issue? The car was missing the original slave cylinder so I can?t compare > the rod length. > > Bruce > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Sun Jan 19 07:14:32 2020 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 14:14:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just mount the fans in front of the braces...no problems. Not quite as efficient, but good enuf. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 11:33 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 22 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Surgery to front cross braces. (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 19:33:48 +0000 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com" , 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Simon, When I installed two 10 inch Hayden fans on the front of the radiator of my 100 I needed some extra space between the radiator and the cross braces. They were already loose from the upper brace due to previous wear and tear so I bent them forward (in relation to the front of the car) at the base and re-landed them on a sheet metal angle piece that I had fabricated andspot welded to the front of the top brace. That gave, in this case, an extra 1" of clearance which simplified installation of the radiator with the fans attached.[cid:807cd2dc-5561-495a-adbe-104ec14f3023] ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:13 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front cross braces. I am having fifty thousand fits trying to install a Revotec pusher fan in my 3000 MkII BT7 ie a fan that sits on the front of the radiator. So?..I?ve got a Revotec kit. Decent powerful ?slimline? 14? fan and a pair of mounting brackets designed specifically for 3000s. (Plus a thermostat etc). The brackets are very nicely made. ?Laser-cut?, I think they say. And the destructions are well laid out and perfectly comprehensible. But, not to put to fine a point on it, the bloody thing won?t fit. It?s all too precise, all cut to the nearest millimetre with very little scope for fettling. They probably got a 3000 and designed everything precisely per that particular car and supposed that 3000s would all be the same. (To the nearest millimetre!!!) I must have had the radiator in and out half a dozen times. It?s not easy ? on my car at least ? without the fan. But, with the fan, it?s a real PITA. I?ve got to the stage where I give up or attack the two cross pieces with an angle grinder. I?m referring to the two bits of angle-iron, referred to as braces I think, that are behind the radiator. They are, basically, ?L?-shaped with the horizontal section nearest the grille and the flat going towards the radiator. I wonder if it?s imprudent to grind off about ? ? of both sides about 4? above where they intersect and about 1?? below. See the attached. I?m thinking of grinding off everything contained within the black arrows. I really can?t see an alternative but I?m holding off for now. Seems a tad drastic?? Really appreciate your input on this? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_0448.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3642558 bytes Desc: DSC_0448.JPG URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 22 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun Jan 19 07:52:50 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 14:52:50 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front braces Message-ID: <000501d5ced8$21f8a9e0$65e9fda0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thank you for all the replies. Advice is:- Don't hack the braces around. 1. Mount fan on braces themselves. Lose a little efficiency but at least get fan into the car. 2. Or, feasibly, cut the braces' welds at the bottom, shove them about 3" back towards grille, trim them to length and reweld them. That would, almost certainly, yield the necessary space. Probably going for option 1). Note the "almost" in 2) above. Also, doubt that the braces would bend easily as in "shove) above. And I don't weld. Garage is immediately adjacent to kitchen, below a bedroom and bathroom and the whole house is thatched. I can just imagine the conversation with the insurance man as we stand in the ashes. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Sun Jan 19 08:05:34 2020 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 10:05:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Surgery to front braces In-Reply-To: <000501d5ced8$21f8a9e0$65e9fda0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000501d5ced8$21f8a9e0$65e9fda0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Don't do solution number 2 if you want to be able to turn a corner. (Check clearances with steering tie rods ... Not much wiggle room IMHO). On Sun, Jan 19, 2020, 10:00 wrote: > Thank you for all the replies. > > Advice is:- > > Don?t hack the braces around. > > 1. Mount fan on braces themselves. Lose a little efficiency but at > least get fan into the car. > 2. Or, feasibly, cut the braces? welds at the bottom, shove them about > 3? back towards grille, trim them to length and reweld them. That would, > almost certainly, yield the necessary space. > > > > Probably going for option 1). Note the ?almost? in 2) above. Also, doubt > that the braces would bend easily as in ?shove) above. And I don?t weld. > Garage is immediately adjacent to kitchen, below a bedroom and bathroom and > the whole house is thatched. I can just imagine the conversation with the > insurance man as we stand in the ashes. > > > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Jan 17 15:43:54 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 14:43:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> Message-ID: <001001d5cd87$9b450b10$d1cf2130$@cox.net> Agreed, its already been ordered. Thanks for the help everybody, much appreciated. From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: David Nock ; David Nock ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys > wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock > Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne >; David Nock >; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Jan 17 17:45:53 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 16:45:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> , <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <003401d5cd98$a56991e0$f03cb5a0$@cox.net> I have 6 LBC?s and use my Moss ?dealer? discount as a benefit for my members of my local car club, getting the minimum order together isn?t an issue, although I understand the problem. From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:26 PM To: Ron Fine ; Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Maybe try British Car Specialists. Not sure if they have a minimum or not. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Ron Fine > Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 11:11 PM To: Michael Salter >; Jonas Payne > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Except that Moss has a minimum order of $10 for online purchases. It often frustrates me when I need a small part to complete some repair. Ron From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys > wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock > Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne >; David Nock >; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne > Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne > Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Jan 19 11:09:06 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 10:09:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Side Curtains Message-ID: <3DF7793C8662434BB640C44C4DF642BC@AllInOne> Hello, I need the expertise of this forum once again. I purchased my car as a barn find and it came with the usual box of parts all of which were supposed to be for the car, a 1960 BT7 Mk1. The Plexiglas on one side curtain had a broken corner and I though it would be easy enough to order a new piece of Plexiglas. When I was looking for the Plexiglas I noticed the side curtains at AH Spares, Moss, British Car Specialists, etc all looked different than the pair I have. One difference is mine has a rubber seal on all 4 sides and the aluminum extrusion looks to be different as well. The dimensions of the aluminum frame are 13.25"high and 28.25" long. The angle at the front tip is 60 degrees. Before I spend time and money repairing and refurbishing these side curtains I would like to confirm they are right of the car. Thanks, Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mystery Side Curtains.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4225276 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun Jan 19 12:40:48 2020 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 19:40:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Side Curtains In-Reply-To: <3DF7793C8662434BB640C44C4DF642BC@AllInOne> References: <3DF7793C8662434BB640C44C4DF642BC@AllInOne> Message-ID: <870064632.1036012.1579462848181@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Harold; Here is an article done by Peter Svilans a number of years ago.Hope it helps. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Sunday, January 19, 2020, 02:10:13 p.m. EST, Harold Manifold wrote: Hello,?I need the expertise of this forum once again. I purchased my car as a barn find and it came with the usual box of parts all of which were supposed to be for the car, a 1960 BT7 Mk1. The Plexiglas on one side curtain had a broken corner and I though it would be easy enough to order a new piece of Plexiglas. When I was looking for the Plexiglas I noticed the side curtains at AH Spares, Moss, British Car Specialists, etc all looked different than the pair I have. One difference is mine has a rubber seal on all 4 sides and the aluminum extrusion looks to be different as well. The dimensions of the aluminum frame are 13.25"high and 28.25" long. The angle at the?front tip?is 60 degrees.?Before I spend time and money repairing and refurbishing these side curtains I would like to confirm they are right of the car.?Thanks,?Harold_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey Sidescreens by Peter Svilans [AHCA Chatter 1982-05].pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 406307 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Jan 19 14:04:47 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 13:04:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Side Curtains In-Reply-To: <870064632.1036012.1579462848181@mail.yahoo.com> References: <3DF7793C8662434BB640C44C4DF642BC@AllInOne> <870064632.1036012.1579462848181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: They might be Sprite side curtains. On Sun, Jan 19, 2020 at 11:45 AM J. Scott Morris via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi Harold; Here is an article done by Peter Svilans a number of years ago. > Hope it helps. > > --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives > > > On Sunday, January 19, 2020, 02:10:13 p.m. EST, Harold Manifold < > manifold at telus.net> wrote: > > > Hello, > > I need the expertise of this forum once again. I purchased my car as a > barn find and it came with the usual box of parts all of which were > supposed to be for the car, a 1960 BT7 Mk1. The Plexiglas on one side > curtain had a broken corner and I though it would be easy enough to order a > new piece of Plexiglas. When I was looking for the Plexiglas I noticed the > side curtains at AH Spares, Moss, British Car Specialists, etc all looked > different than the pair I have. One difference is mine has a rubber seal on > all 4 sides and the aluminum extrusion looks to be different as well. The > dimensions of the aluminum frame are 13.25"high and 28.25" long. The angle > at the front tip is 60 degrees. > > Before I spend time and money repairing and refurbishing these side > curtains I would like to confirm they are right of the car. > > Thanks, > > Harold > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jan 19 17:41:30 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 00:41:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Side Curtains In-Reply-To: References: <3DF7793C8662434BB640C44C4DF642BC@AllInOne> <870064632.1036012.1579462848181@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1409098047.1121483.1579480890628@mail.yahoo.com> They look too tall for Sprite side curtains.? If they are Sprite side curtains could be for the DMH hardtop that had taller door window openings than the factory BMC hardtop.Mike MacLean On Sunday, January 19, 2020, 1:05:29 PM PST, richard mayor wrote: They might be Sprite side curtains. On Sun, Jan 19, 2020 at 11:45 AM J. Scott Morris via Healeys wrote: Hi Harold; Here is an article done by Peter Svilans a number of years ago.Hope it helps. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Sunday, January 19, 2020, 02:10:13 p.m. EST, Harold Manifold wrote: Hello,?I need the expertise of this forum once again. I purchased my car as a barn find and it came with the usual box of parts all of which were supposed to be for the car, a 1960 BT7 Mk1. The Plexiglas on one side curtain had a broken corner and I though it would be easy enough to order a new piece of Plexiglas. When I was looking for the Plexiglas I noticed the side curtains at AH Spares, Moss, British Car Specialists, etc all looked different than the pair I have. One difference is mine has a rubber seal on all 4 sides and the aluminum extrusion looks to be different as well. The dimensions of the aluminum frame are 13.25"high and 28.25" long. The angle at the?front tip?is 60 degrees.?Before I spend time and money repairing and refurbishing these side curtains I would like to confirm they are right of the car.?Thanks,?Harold_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun Jan 19 18:35:45 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 14:35:45 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? In-Reply-To: <018201d5ce21$fc9d5670$f5d80350$@sympatico.ca> References: <018201d5ce21$fc9d5670$f5d80350$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000201d5cf31$f0ee64c0$d2cb2e40$@xtra.co.nz> David, Just type Gidget Austin-Healey into Google and you'll find her there. She is an Australian 100 that competed in the 2019 Peking to Paris Rally. Mark Ardmore, NZ NZ From: Mirek Sharp Sent: Sunday, 19 January 2020 6:09 a.m. To: 'David Leong' ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? That's a pin-up for the garage wall! Thanks David. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Leong Sent: January-17-20 3:59 AM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net )' Subject: [Healeys] I'd like to know more about this car. Anyone? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 41649 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 59952 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sun Jan 19 21:19:46 2020 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2020 20:19:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <924F1AF5-2BBA-45B9-88E7-BF1601C9FDE5@gmail.com> Thanks Michael and Perry, After some investigation today we determined we just couldn?t get enough travel with the current rod length on the slave. We mocked up a longer rod and everything functioned well, so my buddy Greg Wold (who says hi Michael) who was helping me has some spares that he can match up and send to me. Bruce Sent from my iPad > On Jan 18, 2020, at 8:08 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Hi Bruce, before changing parts I would recommend some diagnosis. > Typically installing a longer push rod will make no difference. > The combination of master cylinder diameter, master cylinder piston travel and slave cylinder diameter will result in a specific slave cylinder travel. > That distance of travel is designed to be sufficient to fully disengage the clutch. > First I would suggest using an adjustable wrench on the clutch arm to ensure that when the clutch arm is moved toward the rear of the car that the clutch does indeed disengage. You can check that by turning the prop shaft with the gearbox in gear whilst the arm is moved back. Obviously at least 1 wheel must be off the ground. > If the clutch does not release then the fault is within the clutch itself. > If the clutch does indeed release the fault is almost certainly with the hydraulics. > You will notice that it only takes about 3/4" of movement of the arm from the the point where the release bearing first contacts the clutch cover thrust plate until the clutch is fully released. > This 3/4"is the travel that the slave cylinder piston and therefore the push rod must move to release the clutch. > This you can observe and in fact measure by having an assistant depress the the clutch while you watch or measure the travel. > If there is insufficient travel either there is air in the system or the wrong diameter cylinders are fitted. > One mistake that many people make is having the bleed screw on the bottom rather than the top of the slave cylinder. > Another common problem is a clutch hose that has collapsed internally but that usually manifests itself as a problem with slow clutch engagement. > Hope that helps. > > M > . > > >> On Sat, Jan 18, 2020, 8:04 PM Bruce Peters, wrote: >> Hi all, >> I purchased the replacement clutch slave cylinder from Moss for my 67 BJ8. The push rod appears to be too short to push far enough to disengage the clutch. The slave cylinder piston travels to its max but it seems there needs to be more travel to disengage the clutch. Have any of you had this issue? The car was missing the original slave cylinder so I can?t compare the rod length. >> >> Bruce >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Jan 19 23:04:03 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 17:04:03 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <924F1AF5-2BBA-45B9-88E7-BF1601C9FDE5@gmail.com> References: <924F1AF5-2BBA-45B9-88E7-BF1601C9FDE5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00ee01d5cf57$6b4a6640$41df32c0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Many years back I installed a BJ8 clutch into the BN3 and found that I couldn?t select any gear. After a lot of hear scratching I figured out that the BJ8 clutch doesn?t stand proud of the flywheel as much as the earlier units. The simple solution was lengthening the slave cylinder pushrod and it all worked perfectly. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Monday, 20 January 2020 3:20 PM To: Michael Salter; Perry Small Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder Thanks Michael and Perry, After some investigation today we determined we just couldn?t get enough travel with the current rod length on the slave. We mocked up a longer rod and everything functioned well, so my buddy Greg Wold (who says hi Michael) who was helping me has some spares that he can match up and send to me. Bruce Sent from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jan 20 09:03:19 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 08:03:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <00ee01d5cf57$6b4a6640$41df32c0$@tpg.com.au> References: <924F1AF5-2BBA-45B9-88E7-BF1601C9FDE5@gmail.com> <00ee01d5cf57$6b4a6640$41df32c0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <4515F03A8AC049989E4BAD9EDDCCDAD4@DavidNockHP> You need to be careful and not mix up the combinations of clutch cover and release bearings. The earlier covers require a taller release bearing. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2020 10:04 PM To: 'Bruce Peters' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder Hello Many years back I installed a BJ8 clutch into the BN3 and found that I couldn?t select any gear. After a lot of hear scratching I figured out that the BJ8 clutch doesn?t stand proud of the flywheel as much as the earlier units. The simple solution was lengthening the slave cylinder pushrod and it all worked perfectly. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Monday, 20 January 2020 3:20 PM To: Michael Salter; Perry Small Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder Thanks Michael and Perry, After some investigation today we determined we just couldn?t get enough travel with the current rod length on the slave. We mocked up a longer rod and everything functioned well, so my buddy Greg Wold (who says hi Michael) who was helping me has some spares that he can match up and send to me. Bruce Sent from my iPad -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 07:06:26 2020 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 09:06:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Message-ID: Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Tue Jan 21 07:28:49 2020 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 09:28:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <161723780.615948.1579616929179.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Tom, I have the wooden one and use it quite a bit. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom" To: "Healey Mail List" Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2020 8:06:26 AM Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 07:33:38 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 09:33:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <161723780.615948.1579616929179.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <161723780.615948.1579616929179.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom --------------------------------------------------------------- Tom-- They are probably useful to Moss' bottom line. Though I have the original hammer that came in my car's tool roll I use a lead hammer that works just fine. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 9:29 AM Charles Schott wrote: > Tom, > > I have the wooden one and use it quite a bit. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Tom" > *To: *"Healey Mail List" > *Sent: *Tuesday, January 21, 2020 8:06:26 AM > *Subject: *[Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: > > Long Handle Knock-off Wrench > https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs > > Protective Knock-off Wrenches > https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches > > > - Tom > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jan 21 07:35:24 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 14:35:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, While either of these items are useful, they are bulky to carry in the trunk of an Austin-Healey, I simply carry my knock-off hammer and a piece of rubber from a discarded tire that I have cut up, I put the rubber piece over the ear and hammer away, has worked fine for me for over 30 years. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Tom Sent: January 21, 2020 8:07 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 07:51:09 2020 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 09:51:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, I have had both. The metal wrench will nick and dent the knockoff and it will sometimes slip off the ear. The wooden one will eventually be pounded apart, usually when you need it the most. I discovered the 4 pound plastic dead blow hammer and will never switch. It stores easily in the trunk, doesn't nick, dent, flatten or mark the knockoff. Works great and can be used for other fixes on the car (usually non electrical stuff). Fred On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 9:35 AM Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Tom, > > While either of these items are useful, they are bulky to carry in the > trunk of an Austin-Healey, I simply carry my knock-off hammer and a piece > of rubber from a discarded tire that I have cut up, I put the rubber piece > over the ear and hammer away, has worked fine for me for over 30 years. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Tom > *Sent: *January 21, 2020 8:07 AM > *To: *Healey Mail List > *Subject: *[Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > > > Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: > > Long Handle Knock-off Wrench > https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs > > > Protective Knock-off Wrenches > https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches > > > > > - Tom > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 21 07:54:28 2020 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 14:54:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FWIW I have the wood version now and find it useful, easy to carry and saves the hub; unfortunately I finally got it after beating my previous knockoffs all to heck and now have 4 or 5 of the beat up hubs in a box gathering dust. Regards, Richard C BN7 440 On Jan 21, 2020, at 08:06, Tom wrote: ? Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Jan 21 08:39:56 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 15:39:56 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d5d071$098216e0$1c8644a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> The first one looks lethal. Seems like it would scratch and gouge. And the price! Second one is OK. You could save yourself about $29:00 and make one yourself. Make a pattern with stiff cardboard. Transfer the pattern to two or three bits of ply, depending on which ply you?ve got to hand. Cut them out, erring slightly on the small side. Glue them together with, say, a decent PVA glue. Clamp it up for a while. Tidy it up with a sander and adjust for fit. I did that. Worked fine. I never use it! Prefer my old nylon/rubber Thor per:- eBay item number: 352392763651 I?ve white nylon on one side & black rubber on the other. Got it for my first Healey, so I?ve had it about 48 years. Get spinner moving with the nylon & get it off with the rubber. You need the hammer to hit the wood and, if the hammer is not too harsh with which to hit the spinner, why bother with the wood? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Tom Sent: 21 January 2020 14:06 To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Jan 21 08:42:43 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 10:42:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06cc01d5d071$6c9fc6f0$45df54d0$@rr.com> I use a lead hammer and a piece of oak, put the wood on the knockoff ear and whale away. Wood is cheap and neither the hammer or knockoff gets beat up, either. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2020 9:35 AM To: Tom; Healey Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Tom, While either of these items are useful, they are bulky to carry in the trunk of an Austin-Healey, I simply carry my knock-off hammer and a piece of rubber from a discarded tire that I have cut up, I put the rubber piece over the ear and hammer away, has worked fine for me for over 30 years. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Tom Sent: January 21, 2020 8:07 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 21 08:51:00 2020 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 10:51:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <000001d5d071$098216e0$1c8644a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d5d071$098216e0$1c8644a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I have the hexagon knock offs on my late production BJ-8 . I bought the metal British Wheel Wrench 40 years ago and love it . I always worried about swinging a 10lb lead hammer so close to the fenders . Now the only time I use a hammer is to persuade my starter to continue on , when it refuses to work , I?m thinking a new gear reduction starter . Don Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 21, 2020, at 10:40 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > ? > The first one looks lethal. Seems like it would scratch and gouge. And the price! > Second one is OK. You could save yourself about $29:00 and make one yourself. Make a pattern with stiff cardboard. Transfer the pattern to two or three bits of ply, depending on which ply you?ve got to hand. Cut them out, erring slightly on the small side. Glue them together with, say, a decent PVA glue. Clamp it up for a while. Tidy it up with a sander and adjust for fit. > I did that. Worked fine. I never use it! Prefer my old nylon/rubber Thor per:- > eBay item number: 352392763651 > I?ve white nylon on one side & black rubber on the other. Got it for my first Healey, so I?ve had it about 48 years. Get spinner moving with the nylon & get it off with the rubber. > You need the hammer to hit the wood and, if the hammer is not too harsh with which to hit the spinner, why bother with the wood? > Simon > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Tom > Sent: 21 January 2020 14:06 > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: > > Long Handle Knock-off Wrench > https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs > > Protective Knock-off Wrenches > https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches > > > - Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 21 08:51:00 2020 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 10:51:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <000001d5d071$098216e0$1c8644a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d5d071$098216e0$1c8644a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I have the hexagon knock offs on my late production BJ-8 . I bought the metal British Wheel Wrench 40 years ago and love it . I always worried about swinging a 10lb lead hammer so close to the fenders . Now the only time I use a hammer is to persuade my starter to continue on , when it refuses to work , I?m thinking a new gear reduction starter . Don Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 21, 2020, at 10:40 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > ? > The first one looks lethal. Seems like it would scratch and gouge. And the price! > Second one is OK. You could save yourself about $29:00 and make one yourself. Make a pattern with stiff cardboard. Transfer the pattern to two or three bits of ply, depending on which ply you?ve got to hand. Cut them out, erring slightly on the small side. Glue them together with, say, a decent PVA glue. Clamp it up for a while. Tidy it up with a sander and adjust for fit. > I did that. Worked fine. I never use it! Prefer my old nylon/rubber Thor per:- > eBay item number: 352392763651 > I?ve white nylon on one side & black rubber on the other. Got it for my first Healey, so I?ve had it about 48 years. Get spinner moving with the nylon & get it off with the rubber. > You need the hammer to hit the wood and, if the hammer is not too harsh with which to hit the spinner, why bother with the wood? > Simon > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Tom > Sent: 21 January 2020 14:06 > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: > > Long Handle Knock-off Wrench > https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs > > Protective Knock-off Wrenches > https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches > > > - Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jan 21 09:47:18 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 11:47:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches References: <752DFF72-85B9-444C-95CD-B3FD87A23336.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <752DFF72-85B9-444C-95CD-B3FD87A23336@aol.com> I?ll let the mechanical engineers out there calculate the actual ?torque? applied by the hammer or the wrench but I suspect the this tool was designed to accomplish the task, that being, torquing the nut to the hub. Use a hammer and the moment arm is about 2.5 inches. With the wrench (no hammer involved) it is 25 inches. If you are concerned about the wrench scratching the knock off, place a towel or shop rag over the knock off ears, slide the wrench over the towel and remove or tighten the knock off. With the towel in place there is about zero chance of the wrench slipping off. Just make sure both ears and engaged in the wrench. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5882.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 35947 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5879.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 32033 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Tue Jan 21 10:30:46 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 17:30:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <752DFF72-85B9-444C-95CD-B3FD87A23336@aol.com> References: <752DFF72-85B9-444C-95CD-B3FD87A23336.ref@aol.com>, <752DFF72-85B9-444C-95CD-B3FD87A23336@aol.com> Message-ID: The wooden one eventually breaks when you most need it. I use the long handle one to move the car in winter to prevent the tire from getting flat spots on the tires. Six to ten inches is good. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry Small via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2020 8:47 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches I?ll let the mechanical engineers out there calculate the actual ?torque? applied by the hammer or the wrench but I suspect the this tool was designed to accomplish the task, that being, torquing the nut to the hub. Use a hammer and the moment arm is about 2.5 inches. With the wrench (no hammer involved) it is 25 inches. If you are concerned about the wrench scratching the knock off, place a towel or shop rag over the knock off ears, slide the wrench over the towel and remove or tighten the knock off. With the towel in place there is about zero chance of the wrench slipping off. Just make sure both ears and engaged in the wrench. Perry [cid:b40888f6-e811-443e-a38e-9c0258b0fcd3 at namprd08.prod.outlook.com] [cid:ffbf260e-11e4-4cd8-a6ff-8642abe4895c at namprd08.prod.outlook.com] Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5882.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 35947 bytes Desc: IMG_5882.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5879.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 32033 bytes Desc: IMG_5879.JPG URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 14:10:46 2020 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 16:10:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Message-ID: Hi Tom, I also recommend a plastic lead shot hammer. They work great and don't mar or damage the knockoff. Useful for other jobs also. I got mine from Harbor Freight years ago. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-69004.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Tue Jan 21 16:14:38 2020 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 17:14:38 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Yup.? That's what I use.? Get a 4 pound size.? The smaller ones don't pack enough punch.John O'BrienSent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. -------- Original message --------From: Wayne Schultz Date: 1/21/20 3:11 PM (GMT-06:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Hi Tom,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I also recommend a plastic lead shot hammer. They work great and don't mar or damage the knockoff. Useful?for other jobs also. I got mine from Harbor Freight years ago.??https://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-69004.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jan 21 16:50:50 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 18:50:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <20200121231643.5F21CA0541@autox.team.net> References: <20200121231643.5F21CA0541@autox.team.net> Message-ID: One other bit of info that may keep the big hammer away from those shiny knockoffs. The design of the hub and knockoff is to be self tightening when things are assembled correctly. That assumes that you don?t drive your Healey in reverse at crazy speeds, with panic stops. A shop in UK, that?s been in the business of wire wheels for nearly a century, posted the following info: ? A spinner should be fitted with the wheel jacked up off the ground so that the hub, wheel and spinner are all centralized. ? Apply the spinner by hand and tighten 3 to 3? turns (may vary with model); give the spinner a couple of taps with the hammer; lower the wheel to the ground and give the spinner a couple more taps. ? As long as the hubs are fitted correctly then the spinners will self-tighten and lock as the car is driving. ? If you hammer the spinners too enthusiastically then you will deform the thread of the spinner and the hub and they are more likely to work loose. ? Over-tightening also means that if you ever need to replace either the hub or spinner then you will also need to replace the other part as the deformed thread of the old part will not fit with the new thread. ? If your spinners keep coming loose then it is probably because the hubs have been fitted on the wrong side. For example, the left hub goes on the left-hand side of the car as you sit in it, not on the left as you look at it from the front. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 17:05:49 2020 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 11:05:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Message-ID: G'day Tom, I have the long handle wrench (which will fit in the boot with the narrow end behind the spare wheel) and find it great to use...I haven't noticed any damage to the knock-offs....You will notice how tight the knock-offs can get after driving many miles and I don't like swinging a hammer close to my BJ8 either! Kind regards, Darryl '67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Jan 21 21:08:49 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 23:08:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> For 46 years I have just used the copper-headed Thor hammer that came with the original tool kit. I have the same set of knock-offs for those 46 years and when I restored the exterior I kept them because they nicely display the patina of a 46 year old car. The ears of the knock-offs are a bit flattened, and the underlying brass shows through in a few places, but that is what happens when you use the right tool supplied by the factory and they look lovely. I whack them pretty hard holding onto the very end of the handle to get the maximum leverage on the swing, always with the wheel off the ground so they centre properly, and so I can turn the wheel as to position the ears in the right place for a square blow. Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it. I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle. Then there is the aesthetic. I can?t say it better than Peter Egan: ?However you do it, there's nothing quite as satisfying as smacking a knockoff. It feels like an ancient, embedded human prerogative, like releasing an arrow from a longbow or skipping a stone across a lake. If you've never owned a car with knock- offs, you probably owe it to yourself and your ancestors to get one. Knockoffs provide both tactile involvement with your car and participation in one of the sport's most sacred rituals. Without which, as Jim Morrison would say, true sailing is dead.? I have been whacking them for 46 years and have never stripped a thread or had a wheel come off. I love the ritual and the horrified stares from uninitiated and/or ill-informed on-lookers, so I?ll just stay the course. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: January-21-20 9:06 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 21 21:24:11 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 20:24:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> References: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <39201fae-5720-cc95-2c76-69751b25b599@comcast.net> I've been beatin' on knockoffs for decades with a 4lb lead hammer, with nary a nick, scratch or damaged threads.? The only time I damaged a knock-on/off was when I didn't have a lead hammer and used a block of wood and a 4lb sledgehammer; it chipped the chrome.? Go figure. On 1/21/2020 8:08 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > For 46 years I have just used the copper-headed Thor hammer that came > with the original tool kit.? I have the same set of knock-offs for > those 46 years and when I restored the exterior I kept them because > they nicely display the patina of a 46 year old car.? The ears of the > knock-offs are a bit flattened, and the underlying brass shows through > in a few places, but that is what happens when you use the right tool > supplied by the factory and they look lovely.? I whack them pretty > hard holding onto the very end of the handle to get the maximum > leverage on the swing, always with the wheel off the ground so they > centre properly, and so I can turn the wheel as to position the ears > in the right place for a square blow. > > Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a > centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I > see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we > have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it.? I am not suggesting > we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, > but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle. > > Then there is the aesthetic.? I can?t say it better than Peter Egan:? > ?However you do it, there's nothing quite as satisfying as smacking a > knockoff. It feels like an ancient, embedded human prerogative, like > releasing an arrow from a longbow or skipping a stone across a lake. > If you've never owned a car with knock- offs, you probably owe it to > yourself and your ancestors to get one. Knockoffs provide both tactile > involvement with your car and participation in one of the sport's most > sacred rituals. Without which, as Jim Morrison would say, true sailing > is dead.? > > I have been whacking them for 46 years and have never stripped a > thread or had a wheel come off.? I love the ritual and the horrified > stares from uninitiated and/or ill-informed on-lookers, so I?ll just > stay the course. > > Cheers, Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Tom > *Sent:* January-21-20 9:06 AM > *To:* Healey Mail List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > Are either of these two items useful? ? ?From the Moss catalog: > > Long Handle Knock-off Wrench > https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs > > Protective Knock-off Wrenches > https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches > > - Tom > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 21 21:55:41 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 20:55:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable tie rods Message-ID: Anybody found Big Healey-suitable adjustable tie rods?? I remember seeing some commentary that some of the Japanese cars, like Datsun 210s, had rods that would work: *https://tinyurl.com/qpsg7rd* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Jan 21 22:37:21 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 21:37:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <39201fae-5720-cc95-2c76-69751b25b599@comcast.net> References: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> <39201fae-5720-cc95-2c76-69751b25b599@comcast.net> Message-ID: <11fb01d5d0e6$06368730$12a39590$@roadrunner.com> Likewise, I?ve used a lead hammer from American Hammer for 20 years (actually, I?ve gone through a few of them in that time) with no damage to the knock ons whatsoever. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2020 8:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches I've been beatin' on knockoffs for decades with a 4lb lead hammer, with nary a nick, scratch or damaged threads. The only time I damaged a knock-on/off was when I didn't have a lead hammer and used a block of wood and a 4lb sledgehammer; it chipped the chrome. Go figure. On 1/21/2020 8:08 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: For 46 years I have just used the copper-headed Thor hammer that came with the original tool kit. I have the same set of knock-offs for those 46 years and when I restored the exterior I kept them because they nicely display the patina of a 46 year old car. The ears of the knock-offs are a bit flattened, and the underlying brass shows through in a few places, but that is what happens when you use the right tool supplied by the factory and they look lovely. I whack them pretty hard holding onto the very end of the handle to get the maximum leverage on the swing, always with the wheel off the ground so they centre properly, and so I can turn the wheel as to position the ears in the right place for a square blow. Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it. I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle. Then there is the aesthetic. I can?t say it better than Peter Egan: ?However you do it, there's nothing quite as satisfying as smacking a knockoff. It feels like an ancient, embedded human prerogative, like releasing an arrow from a longbow or skipping a stone across a lake. If you've never owned a car with knock- offs, you probably owe it to yourself and your ancestors to get one. Knockoffs provide both tactile involvement with your car and participation in one of the sport's most sacred rituals. Without which, as Jim Morrison would say, true sailing is dead.? I have been whacking them for 46 years and have never stripped a thread or had a wheel come off. I love the ritual and the horrified stares from uninitiated and/or ill-informed on-lookers, so I?ll just stay the course. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: January-21-20 9:06 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches Are either of these two items useful? From the Moss catalog: Long Handle Knock-off Wrench https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-knock-off-wrench-eared-knock-offs Protective Knock-off Wrenches https://mossmotors.com/protective-knock-off-wrenches - Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 22:57:56 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 16:57:56 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable tie rods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8F4E74B9-72AE-4823-82E9-56A9B0728FA5@gmail.com> Yes, Australian HQ etc Holden's. Just need shortening. Ball joints fit to, and it all looks period with a grease nipple etc. these replace the fixed length side rods, and are mandatory when you adjust camber in order that the steering arms remain pointing straight ahead. > On 22 Jan 2020, at 3:55 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Anybody found Big Healey-suitable adjustable tie rods? I remember seeing some commentary that some of the Japanese cars, like Datsun 210s, had rods that would work: > > https://tinyurl.com/qpsg7rd > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.PNG Type: image/png Size: 610266 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jan 21 23:14:45 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2020 22:14:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable tie rods In-Reply-To: <8F4E74B9-72AE-4823-82E9-56A9B0728FA5@gmail.com> References: <8F4E74B9-72AE-4823-82E9-56A9B0728FA5@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0aa473c3-6566-1c2e-75e8-b9b24916b9a5@comcast.net> Can I get those at Autozone? On 1/21/2020 9:57 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Yes, Australian HQ etc Holden's. > Just need shortening. > Ball joints fit to, and it all looks period with a grease nipple etc. > these replace the fixed length side rods, and are mandatory when you > adjust camber in order that the steering arms remain pointing straight > ahead. > > image1.PNG > > On 22 Jan 2020, at 3:55 pm, Bob Spidell > wrote: > >> Anybody found Big Healey-suitable adjustable tie rods?? I remember >> seeing some commentary that some of the Japanese cars, like Datsun >> 210s, had rods that would work: >> >> *https://tinyurl.com/qpsg7rd* >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.PNG Type: image/png Size: 610266 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Jan 21 23:30:17 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 17:30:17 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable tie rods In-Reply-To: <0aa473c3-6566-1c2e-75e8-b9b24916b9a5@comcast.net> References: <8F4E74B9-72AE-4823-82E9-56A9B0728FA5@gmail.com> <0aa473c3-6566-1c2e-75e8-b9b24916b9a5@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5E825BE8-3FB0-4BDC-9206-DC827CC125C3@gmail.com> NFI Bob! :-) You can get them on eBay.com.au, and Kilmartin are now selling them cut to size and rethreaded. If you're stuck, I can get you a set. Best Chris > On 22 Jan 2020, at 5:14 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Can I get those at Autozone? > > > >> On 1/21/2020 9:57 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> Yes, Australian HQ etc Holden's. >> Just need shortening. >> Ball joints fit to, and it all looks period with a grease nipple etc. >> these replace the fixed length side rods, and are mandatory when you adjust camber in order that the steering arms remain pointing straight ahead. >> >> >> >> On 22 Jan 2020, at 3:55 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >>> Anybody found Big Healey-suitable adjustable tie rods? I remember seeing some commentary that some of the Japanese cars, like Datsun 210s, had rods that would work: >>> >>> https://tinyurl.com/qpsg7rd >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Wed Jan 22 03:38:25 2020 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 10:38:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable tie rods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob 'Our' front suspension came from early Austin cars. On these the side rods were adjustable in a similar manner to the track rod but were dropped in favour of fixed length items. Maybe this was on cost saving grounds but I can imagine problems trying to get correct tracking and steering set up with three items to adjust. Best regards On Wed, 22 Jan 2020 at 04:55, Bob Spidell wrote: > Anybody found Big Healey-suitable adjustable tie rods? I remember seeing > some commentary that some of the Japanese cars, like Datsun 210s, had rods > that would work: > > *https://tinyurl.com/qpsg7rd * > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 22 09:33:10 2020 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 16:33:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> References: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <245212329.10332479.1579710790077@mail.yahoo.com> On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:09:16 PM CST, Mirek Sharp wrote: "Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it.? I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle." I was at a race last year (IMSA LMP3) the mechanic was tightening the octagon knock-offs with a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs.? I questioned him and he does it at the start of ewach race weekend to ensure that his air tool is properly adjusted to the correct setting.? Yes, it was a race car but 250 lbs and they self tighen as they are driven? Bob ? ? ? ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jan 22 10:09:10 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 09:09:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches In-Reply-To: <245212329.10332479.1579710790077@mail.yahoo.com> References: <00a701d5d0d9$a6c6e170$f454a450$@sympatico.ca> <245212329.10332479.1579710790077@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think of them as more 'not self-loosening:' https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/may-2001/41/r-u-d-g-e-whit-worth-hub On 1/22/2020 8:33 AM, Bob Brown via Healeys wrote: > > > On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:09:16 PM CST, Mirek Sharp > wrote: > > "Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a > centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I > see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we > have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it.? I am not suggesting > we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, > but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle." > > I was at a race last year (IMSA LMP3) the mechanic was tightening the > octagon knock-offs with a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs.? I questioned > him and he does it at the start of ewach race weekend to ensure that > his air tool is properly adjusted to the correct setting.? Yes, it was > a race car but 250 lbs and they self tighen as they are driven? > > Bob > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Jan 22 10:43:19 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 17:43:19 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wenches Message-ID: <000501d5d14b$701f27a0$505d76e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I suppose that you?ve all got these pictures? May not be in ?the best possible taste*? but relevant to current discussion?... *Kenny Everett RIP. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Brown via Healeys Sent: 22 January 2020 16:33 To: 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:09:16 PM CST, Mirek Sharp > wrote: "Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it. I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle." I was at a race last year (IMSA LMP3) the mechanic was tightening the octagon knock-offs with a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs. I questioned him and he does it at the start of ewach race weekend to ensure that his air tool is properly adjusted to the correct setting. Yes, it was a race car but 250 lbs and they self tighen as they are driven? Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Changing a tyre.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71156 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: flat,550x550,075,f.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80276 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: jess healey.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 622283 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jan 22 11:11:47 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 18:11:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wenches In-Reply-To: <000501d5d14b$701f27a0$505d76e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000501d5d14b$701f27a0$505d76e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: A knockoff wench. A necessity for every boot... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 5:43 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wenches I suppose that you?ve all got these pictures? May not be in ?the best possible taste*? but relevant to current discussion?... *Kenny Everett RIP. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Brown via Healeys Sent: 22 January 2020 16:33 To: 'Healey Mail List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:09:16 PM CST, Mirek Sharp > wrote: "Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it. I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle." I was at a race last year (IMSA LMP3) the mechanic was tightening the octagon knock-offs with a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs. I questioned him and he does it at the start of ewach race weekend to ensure that his air tool is properly adjusted to the correct setting. Yes, it was a race car but 250 lbs and they self tighen as they are driven? Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Jan 22 11:55:06 2020 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2020 18:55:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off wenches In-Reply-To: <000501d5d14b$701f27a0$505d76e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000501d5d14b$701f27a0$505d76e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <15395C94-892F-426B-BAE9-D40A69CF1113@gmail.com> I believe the car is Larry Varley?s. A beautiful colour that inspired my own ?BlueHealey?. Bluehealey.com Alan - from my iPad > On 22 Jan 2020, at 17:51, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > ? > I suppose that you?ve all got these pictures? > May not be in ?the best possible taste*? but relevant to current discussion?... > *Kenny Everett RIP. > Simon > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Brown via Healeys > Sent: 22 January 2020 16:33 > To: 'Healey Mail List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off wrenches > > > > On Tuesday, January 21, 2020, 10:09:16 PM CST, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > "Somewhere I saw a picture of a mechanic hammering a knock-off on a centre-lock wheel on a front-engined formula 1 car (in my mind?s eye I see a Maserati), and he had a massive hammer, not the dinky Thor we have in our too kits, and he was wailing on it. I am not suggesting we do that; it was a race car and all the parameters are different, but it did suggest to me that we don?t need to be gentle." > > I was at a race last year (IMSA LMP3) the mechanic was tightening the octagon knock-offs with a torque wrench to 250 ft/lbs. I questioned him and he does it at the start of ewach race weekend to ensure that his air tool is properly adjusted to the correct setting. Yes, it was a race car but 250 lbs and they self tighen as they are driven? > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Wed Jan 22 17:44:38 2020 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2020 11:44:38 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Door Trim Seals ( Furflex / Bristleflex ? ) Message-ID: <05DFABF520F641229705DE3498ACFA7C@msiallinone> Hi guys, Need your assistance. My Healey was restored approximately 30 years ago ( photo enclosed ) in non original colours and interior and it now requires the replacement of both the Furflex / Bristelflex ( not sure what name they go by in the US ) seals around both doors and on the windscreen support pillars but as you can see from the interior photo attached hereto the seals were colour coordinated with the original biscuit coloured trim. I have checked with all of the usual suspects in Australia and on line and it appears the only colours of any good quality weather proof seals are in the original colours of black,blue,red or green. The original seals were an English product called Furflex and with the light aluminium interior clips are highly suspect to damage I know Martin Macgregor was at one stage manufacturing and selling a product called Bristelflex in a variety of colours which I understand was of a good quality but he is almost impossible to get hold of from down under. Does any one have the name of a supplier, contact details etc. that I could contact that may stock a seal of a suitable colour for my car . I think you guys would probably call the colour Beige Thanks in anticipation Graeme Molony ( BJ8 ) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0446.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1906427 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 32717 - RR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 258828 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kags at shaw.ca Thu Jan 23 10:41:00 2020 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2020 09:41:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Door Trim Seals ( Furflex / Bristleflex ? ) In-Reply-To: <05DFABF520F641229705DE3498ACFA7C@msiallinone> References: <05DFABF520F641229705DE3498ACFA7C@msiallinone> Message-ID: <216A5DBAC3F449288FCBD61F1CD55CA2@KagsLaptop> Hi Graham: Try Bob Yule at Autofarm Ausirtin-Healey-Healey in Ontario, Canada: https://autofarm.net/ He handles Martin MacGregors Bristleflex door seals for Big Healeys ? there is a beige type colour available ? I have a set on my Golden Beige BJ8. Bob has a very nice OEW BJ8 with a similar tan interior colour to yours. Autofarm is a distributor for AH4H in the UK. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Graeme Molony Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2020 4:44 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Door Trim Seals ( Furflex / Bristleflex ? ) Hi guys, Need your assistance. My Healey was restored approximately 30 years ago ( photo enclosed ) in non original colours and interior and it now requires the replacement of both the Furflex / Bristelflex ( not sure what name they go by in the US ) seals around both doors and on the windscreen support pillars but as you can see from the interior photo attached hereto the seals were colour coordinated with the original biscuit coloured trim. I have checked with all of the usual suspects in Australia and on line and it appears the only colours of any good quality weather proof seals are in the original colours of black,blue,red or green. The original seals were an English product called Furflex and with the light aluminium interior clips are highly suspect to damage I know Martin Macgregor was at one stage manufacturing and selling a product called Bristelflex in a variety of colours which I understand was of a good quality but he is almost impossible to get hold of from down under. Does any one have the name of a supplier, contact details etc. that I could contact that may stock a seal of a suitable colour for my car . I think you guys would probably call the colour Beige Thanks in anticipation Graeme Molony ( BJ8 ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 20 09:08:27 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 08:08:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> , <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <0DB6369C32E64D898EF4A4C0866EAFA2@DavidNockHP> No Minimum order. Also the cap nut for the pressure relief valve is not available new we would have to supply you with a used part. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:26 PM To: Ron Fine ; Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Maybe try British Car Specialists. Not sure if they have a minimum or not. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys on behalf of Ron Fine Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 11:11 PM To: Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Except that Moss has a minimum order of $10 for online purchases. It often frustrates me when I need a small part to complete some repair. Ron From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne ; David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 20 09:08:27 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2020 08:08:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question In-Reply-To: References: <000901d5c96f$6c487b60$44d97220$@cox.net> <254DC460-AD65-4A94-A90A-72D7CB34A87E@sbcglobal.net> <14FB4317BB8A4FB988495DFAC6232904@DavidNockHP> <000001d5cd59$12316c70$36944550$@cox.net> , <8DA95824A81B4D3BB0E4DC9AA04BED86@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <0DB6369C32E64D898EF4A4C0866EAFA2@DavidNockHP> No Minimum order. Also the cap nut for the pressure relief valve is not available new we would have to supply you with a used part. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 4:26 PM To: Ron Fine ; Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Maybe try British Car Specialists. Not sure if they have a minimum or not. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys on behalf of Ron Fine Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 11:11 PM To: Michael Salter ; Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Except that Moss has a minimum order of $10 for online purchases. It often frustrates me when I need a small part to complete some repair. Ron From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 2:32 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question I'm thinking at $1.98 at Moss a new spring might be a wise investment... of course that's almost as much as a cup of coffee (small)!! M On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jonas Payne via Healeys wrote: Bingo, Appears that I have 2 drain plugs. I Pulled Healeyman Jim?s on Sunday for a reference. Not sure whether I bought the car that way or it got messed up at the machine shop, but either way, I have 2 drain plugs. Simple fix was to enlarge the hole with a ?? drill bit to the depth measured on Jim?s. From: David Nock Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 8:16 AM To: Jonas Payne ; David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question Make sure you have the correct plug in the oil pan drain plug, I think that they are the same thread as the relief valve plug. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 12:05 PM To: David Nock ; jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question My spring is too large to fit into the hole in the plug ? therefore the spring is effectively ?? too long and resultantly too stiff, so it isn?t working at 60psi. I?m thinking I should just drill out the plug a larger diameter so the spring fits inside? Probably wouldn?t hurt to order up a new spring since this one is ?smashed?. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: David Nock Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 10:46 AM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Relief Valve Question The spring should fit into the hole in the plug and the valve. There is a bleed hole on the back side of the valve that drains back int the oil pan. It sit in the in debt of the oil pan. I have seen some alloy pans that block the hole. Also have seen people use excessive silicone and plu the hole up. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2020, at 9:41 AM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: ? My recently rebuilt AH 3000 with new oil pump is putting out 100 psi of oil pressure at startup and is at an easy 50 to 60 psi at idle when heated up. It is my understanding that the oil pressure release valve is set to not exceed 60 psi? I pulled it out, and my question is, is the spring supposed to sit down inside the machined hole in the plug or is the spring supposed to sit on the lip of the plug and not go down into the hole. Jonas From: Jonas Payne Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2020 9:32 AM To: Jonas Payne Subject: Pic Get Outlook for Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 24 14:26:13 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 08:26:13 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight Message-ID: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it's a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it's simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. The question that's on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that's what they make. Anyone undertaken any research as to what's the most efficient? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Where it's raining again - wonderful -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 24 14:41:25 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:41:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> References: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 4:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight Hello Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make. Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Where it?s raining again - wonderful -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 24 14:41:25 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:41:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> References: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 4:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight Hello Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make. Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Where it?s raining again - wonderful -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 24 14:52:54 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 08:52:54 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: <202001242141.00OLfTlV024677@mx17.tpg.com.au> References: <004101d5d2fc$e82fb590$b88f20b0$@tpg.com.au> <202001242141.00OLfTlV024677@mx17.tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <004f01d5d300$a24d8df0$e6e8a9d0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Perry Thanks for that. I know the Marketing Manager for Davies Craig and he sent me the same, however being a cynical sort of bloke I don?t always want to take the view of one side. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Perry [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, 25 January 2020 8:41 AM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 4:27 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight Hello Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make. Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Where it?s raining again - wonderful -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 24 14:59:34 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 21:59:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight References: <911027322.19353747.1579903174802.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <911027322.19353747.1579903174802@mail.yahoo.com> There are many things that affect the selection of the blade design besides efficiency. Such as, strength, cost of manufacturing, noise generation, desired CFM at a specific resistance, (pressure drop), marketability to name a few.? I have a "Spal" brand of fan. Because it appeared to be high quality, was thin enough to fit in front of my radiator & produced a relatively high CFM at about .25" pressure drop. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 3:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight <!-- #yiv4865601795 _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv4865601795 #yiv4865601795 p.yiv4865601795MsoNormal, #yiv4865601795 li.yiv4865601795MsoNormal, #yiv4865601795 div.yiv4865601795MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} #yiv4865601795 a:link, #yiv4865601795 span.yiv4865601795MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv4865601795 a:visited, #yiv4865601795 span.yiv4865601795MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv4865601795 span.yiv4865601795EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Times New Roman", "serif";color:windowtext;} #yiv4865601795 .yiv4865601795MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} _filtered {} #yiv4865601795 div.yiv4865601795WordSection1 {} -->Hello ?Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. ?Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. ?I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. ?The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make. ?Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient? ?Hoo Roo ?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, AustraliaWhere it?s raining again - wonderful_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 24 15:34:31 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 09:34:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight In-Reply-To: <911027322.19353747.1579903174802@mail.yahoo.com> References: <911027322.19353747.1579903174802.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <911027322.19353747.1579903174802@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006101d5d306$7280b600$57822200$@tpg.com.au> Thank you Gary I see that Spal makes both straight and curved bladed fans. Another thing I need to consider is the 1948 Lucas electrical circuitry and whether it will cope with anything else. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, 25 January 2020 9:00 AM To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved or Straight There are many things that affect the selection of the blade design besides efficiency. Such as, strength, cost of manufacturing, noise generation, desired CFM at a specific resistance, (pressure drop), marketability to name a few. I have a "Spal" brand of fan. Because it appeared to be high quality, was thin enough to fit in front of my radiator & produced a relatively high CFM at about .25" pressure drop. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 3:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight Hello Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised. Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate. I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc. The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make. Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Where it?s raining again - wonderful _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 24 15:49:14 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 22:49:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent References: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> I am confused by the terminology & illustrations on this site.Terminology:?Pitch = angle of attack. An efficient fan/propeller blade usually has a higher pitch near the hub (center) than at the tip. A blade with a constant pitch is less efficient. Blade Camber is the equivalent of a wing airfoil. A flat blade = 0 camber is generally less efficient than a blade with a camber/ arch/airfoil. However, the camber has t be appropriate to the application.? Gary -----Original Message----- From: Perry via Healeys To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 4:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent #yiv4103211760 #yiv4103211760 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv4103211760 #yiv4103211760 p.yiv4103211760MsoNormal, #yiv4103211760 li.yiv4103211760MsoNormal, #yiv4103211760 div.yiv4103211760MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv4103211760 a:link, #yiv4103211760 span.yiv4103211760MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv4103211760 .yiv4103211760MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {} #yiv4103211760 div.yiv4103211760WordSection1 {} #yiv4103211760 Sir PatrickPlease peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-mythThey must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ?Perry ? ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Jan 24 15:55:50 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 22:55:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Curved or Straight In-Reply-To: <006101d5d306$7280b600$57822200$@tpg.com.au> References: <911027322.19353747.1579903174802.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <911027322.19353747.1579903174802@mail.yahoo.com> <006101d5d306$7280b600$57822200$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1864763333.19436253.1579906550750@mail.yahoo.com> I had to add a separate 30 amp circuit for my fan & I upgraded to a higher capacity alternator. I also discovered that having very good electrical connections is important. I had some high resistance connections initially that caused some issues but it was caught soon enough to avoid a meltdown.Gary -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: warthodson ; healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 4:40 pm Subject: RE: [Healeys] Curved or Straight #yiv6960483191 #yiv6960483191 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv6960483191 #yiv6960483191 p.yiv6960483191MsoNormal, #yiv6960483191 li.yiv6960483191MsoNormal, #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;} #yiv6960483191 a:link, #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6960483191 a:visited, #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6960483191 p.yiv6960483191msonormal, #yiv6960483191 li.yiv6960483191msonormal, #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191msonormal {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;} #yiv6960483191 p.yiv6960483191msochpdefault, #yiv6960483191 li.yiv6960483191msochpdefault, #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191msochpdefault {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191msohyperlink {} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191msohyperlinkfollowed {} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191emailstyle17 {} #yiv6960483191 p.yiv6960483191msonormal1, #yiv6960483191 li.yiv6960483191msonormal1, #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191msonormal1 {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191msohyperlink1 {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191msohyperlinkfollowed1 {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191emailstyle171 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;} #yiv6960483191 p.yiv6960483191msochpdefault1, #yiv6960483191 li.yiv6960483191msochpdefault1, #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191msochpdefault1 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;} #yiv6960483191 span.yiv6960483191EmailStyle27 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;} #yiv6960483191 .yiv6960483191MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {} #yiv6960483191 div.yiv6960483191WordSection1 {} #yiv6960483191 Thank you Gary ?I see that Spal makes both straight and curved bladed fans. ?Another thing I need to consider is the 1948 Lucas electrical circuitry and whether it will cope with anything else. ?Hoo Roo ?Patrick Quinn ?From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, 25 January 2020 9:00 AM To: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved or Straight ?There are many things that affect the selection of the blade design besides efficiency. Such as, strength, cost of manufacturing, noise generation, desired CFM at a specific resistance, (pressure drop), marketability to name a few.? ?I have a "Spal" brand of fan. Because it appeared to be high quality, was thin enough to fit in front of my radiator & produced a relatively high CFM at about .25" pressure drop.Gary Hodson-----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 3:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] Curved or StraightHello?Once again I am about to investigate the engine cooling of the Healey Duncan. Nothing highly unusual with it in that it?s a Riley 2.4 litre engine and unpressurised.?Part of the process is to replace the existing Kenlowe electric fan with a more modern unit. The Kenlow sits over an inch from the radiator surface while a modern unit should only be a few millimetres. Of course it was never fitted with an electric fan when new, but it?s simply not coping with the warmer Australian climate.?I will be doing all sorts of wonderful things like removing the cylinder head to replace the cooling tube between number two and three combustion chamber, refurbishing the radiator, rodding the block etc etc.?The question that?s on my mind concerns whether to install an electric fan with curved or straight blades. Australian manufacturer Davies Craig says that straight blades are best, but they would say that as that?s what they make.?Anyone undertaken any research as to what?s the most efficient??Hoo Roo?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, AustraliaWhere it?s raining again - wonderful_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 24 16:16:25 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 18:16:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> References: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Take a look at: https://www.hunker.com/13407187/how-to-calculate-cfm-from-rpms Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: warthodson at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 5:49 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent I am confused by the terminology & illustrations on this site. Terminology:? Pitch = angle of attack. An efficient fan/propeller blade usually has a higher pitch near the hub (center) than at the tip. A blade with a constant pitch is less efficient. Blade Camber is the equivalent of a wing airfoil. A flat blade = 0 camber is generally less efficient than a blade with a camber/ arch/airfoil. However, the camber has t be appropriate to the application.? Gary -----Original Message----- From: Perry via Healeys To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 4:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jan 24 16:16:25 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 18:16:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> References: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Take a look at: https://www.hunker.com/13407187/how-to-calculate-cfm-from-rpms Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: warthodson at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 5:49 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent I am confused by the terminology & illustrations on this site. Terminology:? Pitch = angle of attack. An efficient fan/propeller blade usually has a higher pitch near the hub (center) than at the tip. A blade with a constant pitch is less efficient. Blade Camber is the equivalent of a wing airfoil. A flat blade = 0 camber is generally less efficient than a blade with a camber/ arch/airfoil. However, the camber has t be appropriate to the application.? Gary -----Original Message----- From: Perry via Healeys To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 4:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jan 24 21:04:07 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 15:04:07 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent In-Reply-To: References: <683516922.19433339.1579906154187.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <683516922.19433339.1579906154187@mail.yahoo.com> <20200124231705.1E588A0977@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <00b501d5d334$7e7785a0$7b6690e0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Harold Thanks for your input. I know that at higher speeds an electric fan becomes superfluous, however my initial question did not concern the cooling of an Austin-Healey, but that of a Healey. Be that as it may, the cooling system of a Healey is I believe more efficient than that of an Austin-Healey, especially that of a six-cylinder. As an aside it?s interesting to look at the BMC part number for a radiator for a six-cylinder Austin-Healey. There was no change in the part number whether it was for a 100/6 engine producing 102bhp right through to the BJ8 producing 141bhp. The only thing that was different was the radiator pressure cap that gradually increased with the corresponding increase in bhp. In other words BMC engineers really didn?t give much consideration to an improvement in engine cooling especially for warmer climates, fan blades excepted. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] Sent: Saturday, 25 January 2020 1:32 PM To: 'Perry'; warthodson at aol.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Subject: RE: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Have a look at this article. BTW fans don't do much at speeds over 25 MPH. https://www.verus-engineering.com/blog/informative-8/post/radiator-fans-in-depth-explanation-and-information-32 For the record I am of the belief that the Healey cooling system is marginal as a result of all of the key components being marginal: water pump, fan, radiator, thermostat, bypass system, pressure rating, etc. are all less than ideal. There is no magic solution and the best approach is to keep all of components in as good an operating condition as possible. Good performance by one component will likely not compensate for poor performance by one of more of the other components. Just my thoughts ... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 3:16 PM To: warthodson at aol.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Take a look at: https://www.hunker.com/13407187/how-to-calculate-cfm-from-rpms Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: warthodson at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 5:49 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent I am confused by the terminology & illustrations on this site. Terminology: Pitch = angle of attack. An efficient fan/propeller blade usually has a higher pitch near the hub (center) than at the tip. A blade with a constant pitch is less efficient. Blade Camber is the equivalent of a wing airfoil. A flat blade = 0 camber is generally less efficient than a blade with a camber/ arch/airfoil. However, the camber has t be appropriate to the application. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Perry via Healeys To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jan 24, 2020 4:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curved/quiet or Straight/efficent Sir Patrick Please peruse the web site at: https://daviescraig.com.au/blog/straight-vs-curved-fan-blades-dispelling-the-myth They must have the best info on the globe since they are located down under! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sat Jan 25 12:18:09 2020 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 12:18:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Message-ID: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. Comments/ideas appreciated.rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 25 12:33:09 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 14:33:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: I know that I will raise the ire of some with this but, I would not recommend any type of grease unless it becomes a liquid at normal operating temperatures. My problem with grease is that the steering box rocker shaft runs steel on steel at the top the tube of the steering box. I have rebuilt quite a few of those boxes and encountered considerable wear of the shaft at that point when they have been low on oil, as in empty, or have been filled with grease because the grease does not seem to get to that area. As for changing the seal without removing the box it is possible. A small pitman arm puller can be maneuvered into position to remove the arm then it is just a case of digging the old seal out with an ice pick or dental hook. Replace the original single seal with a pair of SKF /CR9815 seals and you will be good to go. For the front cover, remove it carefully so as not to damage the bearings then reassemble with the slightest amount of sealant between each of the shims and the cover. M On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 2:18 PM Roger Grace wrote: > Two questions for the more experienced among us ... > > My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more > significantly from the shaft. > > Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the > box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. > Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would > be extracting the old seal ? > > Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or > similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to > get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy > job to me. > > Comments/ideas appreciated. > > rg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jan 25 12:38:25 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 11:38:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: Warm up the penrite. Use a pump to fill the box. Seal can be replaced with box installed. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Sat, Jan 25, 2020, 11:18 AM Roger Grace wrote: > Two questions for the more experienced among us ... > > My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more > significantly from the shaft. > > Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the > box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. > Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would > be extracting the old seal ? > > Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or > similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to > get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy > job to me. > > Comments/ideas appreciated. > > rg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 25 13:15:58 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 12:15:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <000001d5d3bc$420565a0$c61030e0$@sbcglobal.net> Use Land Rover one shot swivel housing grease STC3435. It needs to be heated in hot water to install. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 11:18 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. Comments/ideas appreciated. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jan 25 14:12:45 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 21:12:45 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> I took someone?s advice and bought a John Deere grease gun and a couple of tubes of their ?Cornhead Grease?. One tube will probably be enough?.. The grease gun has a one-handed pistol grip pump action and a long flexible tube/nozzle. You can get it right up to or into the steering box. I forget. Decent item and I needed a modern grease gun anyhow. The grease is, they do say, ?Specially formulated not to leak from the corn head gearcase or drain from the gears during idle periods?. Followed by a load of guff with lots of long words. Personally, I don?t have a clue as to what a ?corn head? is though it sounds a bit like Bart Simpson. However, I sort of recall one of our experts saying that it?s designed application was perfect for our steering boxes. Works for me, Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: 25 January 2020 19:18 To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. Comments/ideas appreciated. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sat Jan 25 14:40:28 2020 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 16:40:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Agreed, works for me too. > On Jan 25, 2020, at 4:12 PM, wrote: > > I took someone?s advice and bought a John Deere grease gun and a couple of tubes of their ?Cornhead Grease?. One tube will probably be enough?.. > The grease gun has a one-handed pistol grip pump action and a long flexible tube/nozzle. You can get it right up to or into the steering box. I forget. Decent item and I needed a modern grease gun anyhow. > The grease is, they do say, ?Specially formulated not to leak from the corn head gearcase or drain from the gears during idle periods?. Followed by a load of guff with lots of long words. Personally, I don?t have a clue as to what a ?corn head? is though it sounds a bit like Bart Simpson. However, I sort of recall one of our experts saying that it?s designed application was perfect for our steering boxes. > Works for me, > Simon > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Roger Grace > Sent: 25 January 2020 19:18 > To: Austin Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions > > Two questions for the more experienced among us ... > > My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. > > Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. > Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? > > Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. > > Comments/ideas appreciated. > > rg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Jan 25 14:48:15 2020 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 16:48:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <003c01d5d3c9$265d3eb0$7317bc10$@verizon.net> A corn head is a corn harvester machine John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Team.net Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 4:40 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Agreed, works for me too. On Jan 25, 2020, at 4:12 PM, > > wrote: I took someone?s advice and bought a John Deere grease gun and a couple of tubes of their ?Cornhead Grease? One tube will probably be enough?.. The grease gun has a one-handed pistol grip pump action and a long flexible tube/nozzle. You can get it right up to or into the steering box. I forget. Decent item and I needed a modern grease gun anyhow. The grease is, they do say, ?Specially formulated not to leak from the corn head gearcase or drain from the gears during idle periods?. Followed by a load of guff with lots of long words. Personally, I don?t have a clue as to what a ?corn head? is though it sounds a bit like Bart Simpson. However, I sort of recall one of our experts saying that it?s designed application was perfect for our steering boxes. Works for me, Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: 25 January 2020 19:18 To: Austin Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. Comments/ideas appreciated. rg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Jan 25 14:48:15 2020 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 16:48:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <003c01d5d3c9$265d3eb0$7317bc10$@verizon.net> A corn head is a corn harvester machine John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Team.net Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 4:40 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Agreed, works for me too. On Jan 25, 2020, at 4:12 PM, > > wrote: I took someone?s advice and bought a John Deere grease gun and a couple of tubes of their ?Cornhead Grease? One tube will probably be enough?.. The grease gun has a one-handed pistol grip pump action and a long flexible tube/nozzle. You can get it right up to or into the steering box. I forget. Decent item and I needed a modern grease gun anyhow. The grease is, they do say, ?Specially formulated not to leak from the corn head gearcase or drain from the gears during idle periods?. Followed by a load of guff with lots of long words. Personally, I don?t have a clue as to what a ?corn head? is though it sounds a bit like Bart Simpson. However, I sort of recall one of our experts saying that it?s designed application was perfect for our steering boxes. Works for me, Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: 25 January 2020 19:18 To: Austin Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. Comments/ideas appreciated. rg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Jan 25 16:33:28 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 10:33:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com> Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf > On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace wrote: > > Two questions for the more experienced among us ... > > My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. > > Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. > Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would be extracting the old seal ? > > Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. > > Comments/ideas appreciated. > > rg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Jan 25 17:53:10 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 16:53:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <000001d5d3c4$3176aed0$94640c70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <06e3c1ae-1fb3-3958-4495-236516b52e38@comcast.net> same here. On 1/25/2020 1:40 PM, Team.net wrote: > Agreed, works for me too. > >> On Jan 25, 2020, at 4:12 PM, > > >> > > wrote: >> >> I took someone?s advice and bought a John Deere grease gun and a >> couple of tubes of their ?Cornhead Grease?. One tube will probably be >> enough?.. >> The grease gun has a one-handed pistol grip pump action and a long >> flexible tube/nozzle. ?You can get it right up to or into the >> steering box. I forget. Decent item and I needed a modern grease gun >> anyhow. >> The grease is, they do say, ?Specially formulated not to leak from >> the corn head gearcase or drain from the gears during idle periods?. >> Followed by a load of guff with lots of long words. Personally, I >> don?t have a clue as to what a ?corn head? is though it sounds a bit >> like Bart Simpson. However, I sort of recall one of our experts >> saying that it?s designed application was perfect for our steering boxes. >> Works for me, >> Simon >> *From:*Healeys > >*On Behalf Of*Roger Grace >> *Sent:*25 January 2020 19:18 >> *To:*Austin Healey > > >> *Subject:*[Healeys] Steering Box Questions >> Two questions for the more experienced among us ... >> My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more >> significantly from the shaft. >> Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without >> removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. >> Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue >> would be extracting the old seal ? >> Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some >> Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a >> sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. Grease >> gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. >> Comments/ideas appreciated. >> rg >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jan 25 18:16:49 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 17:16:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <56b3f357-e278-5d43-d72b-602344b4ba3f@comcast.net> It can be nigh impossible to get a puller on the pitman arm, but if you can get the bolts out you can turn the box out 90deg and get to it from the 'side.'? I sacrificed a cheap, long slotted screwdriver and bent the very tip to improvise a puller.? I ground the tips of couple eighth-inch dia. steel rods to make a long, flat blades to tap the new seal in.?? It's a bear, but it can be done. I agree with Michael on (not) using grease. Bob On 1/25/2020 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > I know that I will raise the ire of some with this but, I would not > recommend any type of grease unless it becomes a liquid at normal > operating temperatures. > My problem with grease is that the steering box rocker shaft runs > steel on steel at the top the tube of the steering box. I have rebuilt > quite a few of those boxes and encountered considerable wear of the > shaft at that point when they have been low on oil, as in empty, or > have been filled with grease because the grease does not seem to get > to that area. > As for changing the seal without removing the box it is possible. A > small pitman arm puller can be maneuvered into position to remove the > arm then it is just a case of digging the old seal out with an ice > pick or dental hook. > Replace the original single seal with a pair of SKF /CR9815 seals and > you will be good to go. > For the front cover, remove it carefully so as not to damage the > bearings then reassemble with the slightest amount of sealant between > each of the shims and the cover. > > M > > On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 2:18 PM Roger Grace > wrote: > > Two questions for the more experienced among us ... > > My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more > significantly from the shaft. > > Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without > removing the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. > Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue > would be extracting the old seal ? > > Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some > Penrite or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a > sensible/practical tecnique to get it into the filler hole ?. > Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy job to me. > > Comments/ideas appreciated. > > rg > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Jan 25 19:18:49 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 21:18:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com> Message-ID: Listers Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of NLGI 00 standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute). This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use. It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out. By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers. NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others. Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges.? I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace wrote: Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Jan 25 19:41:21 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 02:41:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <20200126022131.A5824A051C@autox.team.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com>, <20200126022131.A5824A051C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: This stuff (NGLI 00) is a Polyurea based grease. It has the characteristic of clinging to moving parts, but is highly cohesive and and resistant to flow. There are some videos on line that show it working in open or poorly sealed gear boxes with no tendency to shear from the gears or to leak from the gear box or through the seals. I've had a problem sealing the layers of the shim pack on the front of my steering box. Even Penrite seems to go right through them. I bought some of the NGLI 00 from NAPA and I'm using it in my steering box and on my wheel splines. so far so good. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry via Healeys Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2020 2:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Listers Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of NLGI 00 standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute). This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use. It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out. By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers. NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others. Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace > wrote: Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Jan 25 19:43:00 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 02:43:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com>, <20200126022131.A5824A051C@autox.team.net>, Message-ID: Sorry, NLGI... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2020 2:41 AM To: Perry via Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions This stuff (NGLI 00) is a Polyurea based grease. It has the characteristic of clinging to moving parts, but is highly cohesive and and resistant to flow. There are some videos on line that show it working in open or poorly sealed gear boxes with no tendency to shear from the gears or to leak from the gear box or through the seals. I've had a problem sealing the layers of the shim pack on the front of my steering box. Even Penrite seems to go right through them. I bought some of the NGLI 00 from NAPA and I'm using it in my steering box and on my wheel splines. so far so good. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry via Healeys Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2020 2:18 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Listers Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of NLGI 00 standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute). This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use. It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out. By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers. NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others. Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace > wrote: Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jan 25 20:41:33 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2020 22:41:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <56b3f357-e278-5d43-d72b-602344b4ba3f@comcast.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <56b3f357-e278-5d43-d72b-602344b4ba3f@comcast.net> Message-ID: This is a pic of a small puller, readily available from Harbor Freight being used to remove the steering arm from the idler on a BN1. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=pitman%20arm%20puller You will note that the castellated nut has been removed then installed part way and upside down to help the forcing screw to stay centered. [image: image.png] The puller has to be modified slightly to fit over the arm and engage on the pulling ears. It is a bit of a fiddle but it works perfectly. I see no reason why the same tool could not be used on a later steering box or idler although opening in the puller would have to be slightly larger for the post BN1 cars. M On Sat, Jan 25, 2020, 8:16 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > It can be nigh impossible to get a puller on the pitman arm, but if you > can get the bolts out you can turn the box out 90deg and get to it from the > 'side.' I sacrificed a cheap, long slotted screwdriver and bent the very > tip to improvise a puller. I ground the tips of couple eighth-inch dia. > steel rods to make a long, flat blades to tap the new seal in. It's a > bear, but it can be done. > > I agree with Michael on (not) using grease. > > Bob > > > On 1/25/2020 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > I know that I will raise the ire of some with this but, I would not > recommend any type of grease unless it becomes a liquid at normal operating > temperatures. > My problem with grease is that the steering box rocker shaft runs steel on > steel at the top the tube of the steering box. I have rebuilt quite a few > of those boxes and encountered considerable wear of the shaft at that point > when they have been low on oil, as in empty, or have been filled with > grease because the grease does not seem to get to that area. > As for changing the seal without removing the box it is possible. A small > pitman arm puller can be maneuvered into position to remove the arm then it > is just a case of digging the old seal out with an ice pick or dental hook. > Replace the original single seal with a pair of SKF /CR9815 seals and you > will be good to go. > For the front cover, remove it carefully so as not to damage the bearings > then reassemble with the slightest amount of sealant between each of the > shims and the cover. > > M > > On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 2:18 PM Roger Grace wrote: > >> Two questions for the more experienced among us ... >> >> My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more >> significantly from the shaft. >> >> Firstly, is it possible to replace the shaft oil seal without removing >> the box ? - that is not going to happen at the moment. >> Looks sort of feasible to me and possibly the most difficult issue would >> be extracting the old seal ? >> >> Secondly as often mentioned here is to refill the box with some Penrite >> or similar NGLI 00 liquid grease. Is there a sensible/practical tecnique to >> get it into the filler hole ?. Grease gun with plastic tube ? Sounds messy >> job to me. >> >> Comments/ideas appreciated. >> >> rg >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 738501 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun Jan 26 03:09:48 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 10:09:48 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <20200126022106.DB4BAA08EB@autox.team.net> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com> <20200126022106.DB4BAA08EB@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <003d01d5d430$bf08ee90$3d1acbb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:- ?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?. & ?Applications: Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?. &, rather relevantly, ?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?. Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????! Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: 26 January 2020 02:19 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Listers Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of NLGI 00 standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute). This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use. It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out. By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers. NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others. Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace > wrote: Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sun Jan 26 09:14:51 2020 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 16:14:51 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions In-Reply-To: <003d01d5d430$bf08ee90$3d1acbb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1093201511.9682489.1579979889077.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> <43BD08E0-3255-4381-BE9C-66F8E4A99300@gmail.com> <20200126022106.DB4BAA08EB@autox.team.net> <003d01d5d430$bf08ee90$3d1acbb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <026101d5d463$bd275520$3775ff60$@gmail.com> Guys. This is an interesting thread and I absolutely agree with use of the NLGI grease. This becomes a ?fit and forget? mod. Neglible ? probably zero ? leaks and therefore no need to ever top up again. The stuff sticks like 5h1t to a blanket and gets dragged by the worm into the rocker arm bearing surface. I practically brimmed mine after replacing the oil seals and it has never leaked. Regarding R&R in situ. Removal of the column/box really isn?t a big deal. The sequence, from memory: Disconnect the bullets and withdraw the trafficator including stator tube in one piece. Plug the exit hole olive and nut with a 3/8? bolt to minimise oil over the floor. Steering wheel off and grille out. Undo column clamp and three box bolts. Split the steering rod joints. The box comes out easily then by rotating it and drawing out of the grille opening. The trick for re-installing is to slide a PVC tube into the car long enough to pass from grille opening into the cockpit. Plumbing waste pipe here in the UK. The engine bay grommet plate is positioned on the plastic tube and the grommet as two separate items. Slide the column into the tube and through the grille until the box can be caught on a front trunnion bolt. Then withdraw the plastic tube and install the clamp, plates and grommets. It isn?t as difficult as it may appear and makes working on the box a very comfortable exercise at the bench. JM2C Have fun AlanB From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: 26 January 2020 10:10 To: 'Perry' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:- ?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?. & ?Applications: Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?. &, rather relevantly, ?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?. Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????! Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: 26 January 2020 02:19 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Listers Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of NLGI 00 standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute). This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use. It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out. By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers. NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others. Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace wrote: Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 7246 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Jan 26 17:09:05 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 16:09:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit Message-ID: <6171FEADC5C64939BBADC94F846F49CC@AllInOne> Hello, Has anyone experienced a problem fitting the steering wheel onto the splined steering shaft? I can get the steering wheel hub to go onto the shaft the length of the collet but then it hits a dead stop. I have checked both the male and female splines and there are no obvious problems. The steering wheel is from a Mk 1 BT7 and the steering box is from a BJ7 and they have never been together before. The fit should be loose enough to allow the hub to slide on the shaft but that doesn't seem to be the case. It seems like either the OD of the shaft to too large or the ID of the hub too small. Any help is appreciated.... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Jan 26 17:30:30 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 00:30:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit References: <1160408424.810431.1580085030450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1160408424.810431.1580085030450@mail.yahoo.com> I had a similar difficulty. Since it would go part way on I concluded that the either the splines on the shaft or in the hub or both were the issue. I used a very small triangular file, available in some hobby stores, and spent some time "cleaning" both the shaft & the hub splines until I got them to slide together smoothly. The file needs to be tapered to a very fine point & I recall using only the tip portion to be sure I was not rounding off the top/tip of the splines. Clean the filings out periodically & test the fit.Gary H. -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: Healey List Sent: Sun, Jan 26, 2020 6:10 pm Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit Hello,?Has anyone experienced a problem fitting the steering wheel onto the splined steering shaft? I can get the steering wheel hub to go onto the shaft the length of the collet but then it hits a dead stop. I have checked both the male and female splines and there are no obvious problems. The steering wheel is from a Mk 1 BT7 and the steering box is from a BJ7 and they have never been together before. The fit should be loose enough to allow the hub to slide on the shaft but that doesn't seem to be the case. It seems like either the OD of the shaft to too large or the ID of the hub too small.?Any help is appreciated.... Harold??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jan 26 17:36:56 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 16:36:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit In-Reply-To: <1160408424.810431.1580085030450@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1160408424.810431.1580085030450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1160408424.810431.1580085030450@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <18b24ed3-f10b-cb79-8c78-34c8b8a48fbb@comcast.net> These--well, similar--have come in handy quite a few times for me: *https://tinyurl.com/ugbe65s* * *However, I think something else might be at play if the hub comes to a hard stop. On 1/26/2020 4:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > I had a similar difficulty. Since it would go part way on I concluded > that the either the splines on the shaft or in the hub or both were > the issue. I used a very small triangular file, available in some > hobby stores, and spent some time "cleaning" both the shaft & the hub > splines until I got them to slide together smoothly. The file needs to > be tapered to a very fine point & I recall using only the tip portion > to be sure I was not rounding off the top/tip of the splines. Clean > the filings out periodically & test the fit. > Gary H. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: Healey List > Sent: Sun, Jan 26, 2020 6:10 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit > > Hello, > Has anyone experienced a problem fitting the steering wheel onto the > splined steering shaft? I can get the steering wheel hub to go onto > the shaft the length of the collet but then it hits a dead stop. I > have checked both the male and female splines and there are no obvious > problems. The steering wheel is from a Mk 1 BT7 and the steering box > is from a BJ7 and they have never been together before. The fit should > be loose enough to allow the hub to slide on the shaft but that > doesn't seem to be the case. It seems like either the OD of the shaft > to too large or the ID of the hub too small. > Any help is appreciated.... Harold > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Jan 26 19:26:10 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 18:26:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit In-Reply-To: <18b24ed3-f10b-cb79-8c78-34c8b8a48fbb@comcast.net> References: <1160408424.810431.1580085030450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1160408424.810431.1580085030450@mail.yahoo.com> <18b24ed3-f10b-cb79-8c78-34c8b8a48fbb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <391ab20e-0222-36d9-7852-8057de4a5ce2@comcast.net> I bought a set like this for my model train work, and find they come in handy for a lot of things.? Make sure you get a quality set. Mike On 1/26/2020 4:36 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > These--well, similar--have come in handy quite a few times for me: > > *https://tinyurl.com/ugbe65s* > * > *However, I think something else might be at play if the hub comes to > a hard stop. > > > On 1/26/2020 4:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >> I had a similar difficulty. Since it would go part way on I concluded >> that the either the splines on the shaft or in the hub or both were >> the issue. I used a very small triangular file, available in some >> hobby stores, and spent some time "cleaning" both the shaft & the hub >> splines until I got them to slide together smoothly. The file needs >> to be tapered to a very fine point & I recall using only the tip >> portion to be sure I was not rounding off the top/tip of the splines. >> Clean the filings out periodically & test the fit. >> Gary H. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Harold Manifold >> To: Healey List >> Sent: Sun, Jan 26, 2020 6:10 pm >> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit >> >> Hello, >> Has anyone experienced a problem fitting the steering wheel onto the >> splined steering shaft? I can get the steering wheel hub to go onto >> the shaft the length of the collet but then it hits a dead stop. I >> have checked both the male and female splines and there are no >> obvious problems. The steering wheel is from a Mk 1 BT7 and the >> steering box is from a BJ7 and they have never been together before. >> The fit should be loose enough to allow the hub to slide on the shaft >> but that doesn't seem to be the case. It seems like either the OD of >> the shaft to too large or the ID of the hub too small. >> Any help is appreciated.... Harold >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Jan 26 20:16:25 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 03:16:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit In-Reply-To: <6171FEADC5C64939BBADC94F846F49CC@AllInOne> References: <6171FEADC5C64939BBADC94F846F49CC@AllInOne> Message-ID: <293173289.751159.1580094985607@mail.yahoo.com> Might be worth a try to attack the shaft splines with a wire wheel on a drill in a semi-aggressive or aggressive manner.? It is amazing how the least little burr can bind things up.? Just a thought. -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: Healey List Sent: Sun, Jan 26, 2020 7:09 pm Subject: [Healeys] Steering Wheel Hub and Shaft Spline Fit Hello,?Has anyone experienced a problem fitting the steering wheel onto the splined steering shaft? I can get the steering wheel hub to go onto the shaft the length of the collet but then it hits a dead stop. I have checked both the male and female splines and there are no obvious problems. The steering wheel is from a Mk 1 BT7 and the steering box is from a BJ7 and they have never been together before. The fit should be loose enough to allow the hub to slide on the shaft but that doesn't seem to be the case. It seems like either the OD of the shaft to too large or the ID of the hub too small.?Any help is appreciated.... Harold??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 27 18:39:54 2020 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 20:39:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks References: Message-ID: Does anybody have any experience with Moss gas tanks ? They are showing one for 3000s for $178. Crazy cheap . I called about them and they said they have sold around 70 of them . With no problems . I thought I remembered a while ago people talking about the fittings for the outgoing fuel lines not matching up with the fuel lines . They are in stock and ready for shipping . It?s for a BJ-7 Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon Jan 27 21:45:38 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (R F BEGANI) Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 23:45:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks Message-ID: I bought one 2 years ago . I was an exact duplicate of the old one in my bj8. Bob Begani On January 27, 2020, at 8:40 PM, Don via Healeys wrote: Does anybody have any experience with Moss gas tanks ? They are showing one for 3000s for $178. Crazy cheap . I called about them and they said they have sold around 70 of them . With no problems . I thought I remembered a while ago people talking about the fittings for the outgoing fuel lines not matching up with the fuel lines . They are in stock and ready for shipping . It?s for a BJ-7 Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From waschu2 at gmail.com Tue Jan 28 14:43:03 2020 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 16:43:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 36 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Re: Gas Tanks I used a Moss steel tank getting my BJ8 back on the road and it worked fine. I used their straps to hold it down. On Tue, Jan 28, 2020 at 2:00 PM wrote: > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Gas Tanks (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) > 2. Re: Gas Tanks (R F BEGANI) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 20:39:54 -0500 > From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > To: healey list > Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > > Does anybody have any experience with Moss gas tanks ? They are showing > one for 3000s for $178. Crazy cheap . I called about them and they said > they have sold around 70 of them . With no problems . I thought I > remembered a while ago people talking about the fittings for the outgoing > fuel lines not matching up with the fuel lines . They are in stock and > ready for shipping . It?s for a BJ-7 > Thanks , Don > Sent from my iPhone > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2020 23:45:38 -0500 > From: R F BEGANI > To: "fsufan1952 at yahoo com" , Healey Email list > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Tanks > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > I bought one 2 years ago . I was an exact duplicate of the old one in my > bj8. > > Bob Begani > > On January 27, 2020, at 8:40 PM, Don via Healeys > wrote: > > > Does anybody have any experience with Moss gas tanks ? They are showing > one for 3000s for $178. Crazy cheap . I called about them and they said > they have sold around 70 of them . With no problems . I thought I > remembered a while ago people talking about the fittings for the outgoing > fuel lines not matching up with the fuel lines . They are in stock and > ready for shipping . It?s for a BJ-7 > Thanks , Don > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 36 > *************************************** > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Jan 28 15:22:10 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 17:22:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays Message-ID: One for the electrical geniuses. As I sort my way through my boxes and boxes of electrical parts I keep coming across Lucas 6RA relays. These are the ones in the little steel box with the bracket on the back with 2 mounting holes. Ignoring those with more than 4 terminals I must have at least 15 different Lucas part numbers for what appears to be the same relay. All are 12 volt and all have 4 terminals W1 & W2 which are the coil (winding) and C1 & C2 which are the contacts ... like what get switched. A couple are normally closed contracts (NC) but the vast majority are normally open (NO). I have checked the continuity between the various terminals and in all cases the C terminals are isolated from the W terminals and all terminals are isolated from the steel enclosure. I've opened a few up and, internally, as far as I can tell, they appear to be virtually identical. So ... to my question ... why all the different part numbers, as I understand it these things are essentially an electrically operated switch, what can be so different between them that they need to have so many different part numbers? Perhaps I should also mention that Lucas is very particular in requiring a specific part number for each application... what am I missing. Please avoid comments referring to the long Canadian winter ... they make my wife angry ... she's a local and they get a bit sensitive when such is mentioned ? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Jan 28 15:45:05 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 17:45:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002601d5d62c$97aa4080$c6fec180$@sympatico.ca> Hi Mike, First, what winter? Second, I might be interested in purchasing one or two of these relays, pending the responses from the genii, as I have a couple of applications for them on the BT7 and the MGs (e.g. driving/fog lamps) Best, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: January-28-20 5:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays One for the electrical geniuses. As I sort my way through my boxes and boxes of electrical parts I keep coming across Lucas 6RA relays. These are the ones in the little steel box with the bracket on the back with 2 mounting holes. Ignoring those with more than 4 terminals I must have at least 15 different Lucas part numbers for what appears to be the same relay. All are 12 volt and all have 4 terminals W1 & W2 which are the coil (winding) and C1 & C2 which are the contacts ... like what get switched. A couple are normally closed contracts (NC) but the vast majority are normally open (NO). I have checked the continuity between the various terminals and in all cases the C terminals are isolated from the W terminals and all terminals are isolated from the steel enclosure. I've opened a few up and, internally, as far as I can tell, they appear to be virtually identical. So ... to my question ... why all the different part numbers, as I understand it these things are essentially an electrically operated switch, what can be so different between them that they need to have so many different part numbers? Perhaps I should also mention that Lucas is very particular in requiring a specific part number for each application... what am I missing. Please avoid comments referring to the long Canadian winter ... they make my wife angry ... she's a local and they get a bit sensitive when such is mentioned ? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmasucci at charter.net Tue Jan 28 16:06:06 2020 From: dmasucci at charter.net (David Masucci) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 18:06:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Front Shroud In-Reply-To: <002601d5d62c$97aa4080$c6fec180$@sympatico.ca> References: <002601d5d62c$97aa4080$c6fec180$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <85744B20-C719-46F8-B7EB-B50CEA423EC3@charter.net> Hi Healey folks, It?s been a while. I started the restoration of my BJ8 back in 2012 or so. I just spent the last year and a half moving to a new home 10 miles from the old. The move took months to move a barn full of car stuff to my new garage. Then months to set up the garage and basement work areas. FINALLY I?m back to working on the car!! When I left the old house it was finally a running car again, it just didn?t have a body. The front shroud had minor to moderate damage at each headlight area that dates back to before my Dad bought the car (his 3rd Healey) in the early 1980s. Since both sides have some remaining damage, I don?t know which side (if either) is correct. The area of concern is the area below the headlights. Does anyone have any templates or other means to confirm or not that I have the correct contours? Thanks All, Dave Masucci -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200126_150104.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89574 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200126_150110.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89452 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Jan 28 16:40:10 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 15:40:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays Message-ID: <15be91527fbd0198c36c620c31e0b54134d8c9ea@> Hi Michael-seems like you are describing overdrive relays (the ones shown in the upper left in this pic) The early cars using two relays w/governor and the later single relay. All use the W and C connections in the schematic. The thing with Lucas is that they kept changing the inventory part number (same item) to a 5, 6, 7 and 8 digit numbers to avoid inventory tax. They eventually got caught and that helped to put them out of business. All those different numbered boxes can do the same job. I have those Lucas numbers if you need them. Regards, Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Sent: Tuesday January 28 2020 2:19:27PM Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays One for the electrical geniuses. As I sort my way through my boxes and boxes of electrical parts I keep coming across Lucas 6RA relays. These are the ones in the little steel box with the bracket on the back with 2 mounting holes. Ignoring those with more than 4 terminals I must have at least 15 different Lucas part numbers for what appears to be the same relay. All are 12 volt and all have 4 terminals W1 & W2 which are the coil (winding) and C1 & C2 which are the contacts ... like what get switched. A couple are normally closed contracts (NC) but the vast majority are normally open (NO). I have checked the continuity between the various terminals and in all cases the C terminals are isolated from the W terminals and all terminals are isolated from the steel enclosure. I've opened a few up and, internally, as far as I can tell, they appear to be virtually identical. So ... to my question ... why all the different part numbers, as I understand it these things are essentially an electrically operated switch, what can be so different between them that they need to have so many different part numbers? Perhaps I should also mention that Lucas is very particular in requiring a specific part number for each application... what am I missing. Please avoid comments referring to the long Canadian winter ... they make my wife angry ... she's a local and they get a bit sensitive when such is mentioned ? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: finished tunnel mount.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 625790 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 29 00:29:52 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2020 23:29:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d5d675$e621f340$b265d9c0$@sbcglobal.net> I installed a Moss tank in my BT7 in 2013. It was an excellent reproduction and better than the original. However, the gasket set did not fit correctly and I had to spend a lot of time resolving that issue. Played around with different gaskets, gasket material and flexible sealants. Resolved the minor fit issues and I am very satisfied with it. John '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys Sent: Monday, January 27, 2020 5:40 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Gas Tanks Does anybody have any experience with Moss gas tanks ? They are showing one for 3000s for $178. Crazy cheap . I called about them and they said they have sold around 70 of them . With no problems . I thought I remembered a while ago people talking about the fittings for the outgoing fuel lines not matching up with the fuel lines . They are in stock and ready for shipping . It?s for a BJ-7 Thanks , Don Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From ab7vf at yahoo.com Wed Jan 29 14:14:19 2020 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2020 21:14:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <745633723.871753.1580332459645@mail.yahoo.com> aside from the "inventory scam" ...Operate current for relay ..Size of wire on operate winding ..How much current does it need to operate/how much it can take before it fails...size of contacts ...How much current it can control before contacts overheat..mechanical ..contacts on left/right ..winding terminals on top/bottom ... Jim On Tuesday, January 28, 2020, 10:19:25 PM UTC, Michael Salter wrote: So ... to my question ... why all the different part numbers, as I? understand it these things are essentially an electrically operated switch, what can be so different between them that they need to have so many different part numbers?Perhaps I should also mention that Lucas is very particular in requiring a specific part number for each application... what am I missing. M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jan 29 16:29:23 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2020 15:29:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas 6RA Relays In-Reply-To: <745633723.871753.1580332459645@mail.yahoo.com> References: <745633723.871753.1580332459645@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I used to have a stack of lucas books to chase supersession history of parts. Lucas kept rationalizing inventory so the fewest parts would fill a larger # of cars. Could all be the same inside. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Wed, Jan 29, 2020, 1:14 PM jim via Healeys wrote: > aside from the "inventory scam" ...Operate current for relay ..Size of > wire on operate winding ..How much current does it need to operate/how much > it can take before it fails...size of contacts ...How much current it can > control before contacts overheat.. > mechanical ..contacts on left/right ..winding terminals on top/bottom ... > > Jim > > On Tuesday, January 28, 2020, 10:19:25 PM UTC, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > So ... to my question ... why all the different part numbers, as I > understand it these things are essentially an electrically operated switch, > what can be so different between them that they need to have so many > different part numbers? > Perhaps I should also mention that Lucas is very particular in requiring a > specific part number for each application... what am I missing. > > M > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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