From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Feb  3 16:28:37 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2020 15:28:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] LED headlight and aux light conversion
Message-ID: <03f301d5dae9$aaf49b10$00ddd130$@roadrunner.com>

I posted this on the various Healey Facebook pages, but recognizing that not
everyone does Facebook, I'll add to the list.  I finally got around to
converting my halogen sealed beams to LED using the kit from Little British
Car Company.  Even though the price went up a few dollars since I bought the
kit, it is still a great value (currently $81.00).  After much searching, I
also found LEDs to replace the P36S incandescent bulbs in my auxiliary
lights at LEDLight.com, part #74869W.  I had to spend some time on a
deserted side road aiming everything, but I am very happy with the results.
The attached photo clearly shows the difference.  I don't out-drive my
lights anymore!

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Feb  4 14:44:33 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 16:44:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out
for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out
of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable
sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke
bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to
start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.

This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need more
stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through the
firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back of
the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does anyone
have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back through the
dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have to actually
remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?

Help!

Fred
66BJ8
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Feb  4 16:07:25 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:07:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00d501d5dbaf$ddfc0ae0$99f420a0$@gmail.com>

Hi Fred:

 

I did remove the heater box to make the job replacing the choke cable easier last year.  However, I did not replace the heater box because I have no need for it in South Florida.  Although I remember taking it out 30 years ago and did get it back in after a time when I lived in Chicago by standing on my head. 

 

Bob Begani

BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2020 4:45 PM
To: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable

 

Listers,

 

Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.

 

This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?

 

Help!

 

Fred 

66BJ8

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From ah3000me at gmail.com  Tue Feb  4 18:17:45 2020
From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom)
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 20:17:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANQM1PL8fPT0p_52fnuV2nMar31G_V=RBDd5cAzy-BbQjYXYPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Fred,

I refinished my dash last winter, and re-installing the choke cable was one
of the things I had to do.   From the engine bay, I fished a wire thru the
firewall hole into the passenger compartment.   Stand on the passenger's
side as you do this, so that you can aim the wire down and toward the
driver's foot pedals.   Attach the choke cable to the fish wire, then
gently pull the choke cable back into the engine compartment.

As you pull, be careful of the wiring.  You don't want to accidentally pull
a wire loose or put stress on any of the wiring.   An assistant would be
helpful, one person to push from the passenger compartment while the other
pulls from the engine compartment, but if you're careful, you can do both
roles yourself.

Good luck!

 - Tom


On Tue, Feb 4, 2020 at 4:44 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out
> for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out
> of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable
> sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke
> bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to
> start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.
>
> This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need
> more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through
> the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back
> of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does
> anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back
> through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have
> to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?
>
> Help!
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Feb  4 19:55:26 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 15:55:26 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKY6qMNoVusreAr1oKe7oXdgmysD3SwiDc7GDuzf3tUAA@mail.gmail.com>

On the BJ8 that's a challenging job.
First turn off the battery master switch.
Next remove the "splitter" bracket from the firewall at the back of the
engine compartment. 2 Phillips head screws.
Next feed the choke cable assembly, with the inner cable pulled out until
the end of the inner is within the outer, through the wooden dash and then
slide the split washer and then the nut onto the cable.
Using a thin wall socket, also slid over the cable, tighten the choke
assembly into the wood dash
At this stage it's a really good good idea to install a 5/8" NC " palnut"
on top of the hex nut to prevent the choke assembly from coming loose in
the future.
Now, after removing the socket, feed the end of the outer cable through the
hole in the firewall between the 2 "splitter" assembly securing screws.
Now push the choke control all the way in.
Next reinstall the "splitter" assembly such that the inner cable protrudes
into the splitter.
Install the trunnion through the splitter block and then clamp the inner
cable into the trunnion.
There should be little or no inner cable protruding through the splitter
block.
Flat rate time 0.3 hours. ??

M


On Wed, Feb 5, 2020, 10:44 AM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out
> for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out
> of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable
> sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke
> bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to
> start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.
>
> This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need
> more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through
> the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back
> of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does
> anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back
> through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have
> to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?
>
> Help!
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Feb  4 21:02:53 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 04:02:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKY6qMNoVusreAr1oKe7oXdgmysD3SwiDc7GDuzf3tUAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAB3i7LKY6qMNoVusreAr1oKe7oXdgmysD3SwiDc7GDuzf3tUAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB146297E12B528DB213B23880D1020@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

You almost make it sound easy Michael, I find that the nut in the wood dash is the worse part of the whole operation.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: February 4, 2020 8:56 PM
To: Fred Wescoe<mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Choke cable

On the BJ8 that's a challenging job.
First turn off the battery master switch.
Next remove the "splitter" bracket from the firewall at the back of the engine compartment. 2 Phillips head screws.
Next feed the choke cable assembly, with the inner cable pulled out until the end of the inner is within the outer, through the wooden dash and then slide the split washer and then the nut onto the cable.
Using a thin wall socket, also slid over the cable, tighten the choke assembly into the wood dash
At this stage it's a really good good idea to install a 5/8" NC " palnut" on top of the hex nut to prevent the choke assembly from coming loose in the future.
Now, after removing the socket, feed the end of the outer cable through the hole in the firewall between the 2 "splitter" assembly securing screws.
Now push the choke control all the way in.
Next reinstall the "splitter" assembly such that the inner cable protrudes into the splitter.
Install the trunnion through the splitter block and then clamp the inner cable into the trunnion.
There should be little or no inner cable protruding through the splitter block.
Flat rate time 0.3 hours. ??

M


On Wed, Feb 5, 2020, 10:44 AM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com<mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>> wrote:
Listers,

Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.

This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?

Help!

Fred
66BJ8
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://eur05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C48bec3c2c2504012530208d7a9e6f107%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637164681660907131&sdata=Xqf33XdbOPm99M7Ejc%2BxYADBaEFhZLI3psagTRxujhU%3D&reserved=0>
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://eur05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C48bec3c2c2504012530208d7a9e6f107%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637164681660917136&sdata=tixV1ggUvmhc1%2BPItWqElRmH2mzfcpgRbOIdjGOkDII%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://eur05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C48bec3c2c2504012530208d7a9e6f107%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637164681660917136&sdata=KIX6CN09jUQCzbcNWRdtyRUrfiX8hPf%2BjwZt1nI1aOY%3D&reserved=0>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Feb  4 21:11:23 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 17:11:23 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB146297E12B528DB213B23880D1020@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKY6qMNoVusreAr1oKe7oXdgmysD3SwiDc7GDuzf3tUAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB146297E12B528DB213B23880D1020@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLSc2tppLv7OsxEgEVL_q2qsHQ624BEg6gV=0-Pm=J_3w@mail.gmail.com>

A little secret ... I have a 5/8" spark plug socket with the end turned
down so that it just slides into the recess in the wood. A ratchet ring
spanner is used to turn the socket.
I still very much doubt that I  could beat the warrenty time for changing
the pirmary choke cable.

M

On Wed, Feb 5, 2020, 5:02 PM Jean Caron, <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> You almost make it sound easy Michael, I find that the nut in the wood
> dash is the worse part of the whole operation.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *February 4, 2020 8:56 PM
> *To: *Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Choke cable
>
>
>
> On the BJ8 that's a challenging job.
>
> First turn off the battery master switch.
>
> Next remove the "splitter" bracket from the firewall at the back of the
> engine compartment. 2 Phillips head screws.
>
> Next feed the choke cable assembly, with the inner cable pulled out until
> the end of the inner is within the outer, through the wooden dash and then
> slide the split washer and then the nut onto the cable.
>
> Using a thin wall socket, also slid over the cable, tighten the choke
> assembly into the wood dash
>
> At this stage it's a really good good idea to install a 5/8" NC " palnut"
> on top of the hex nut to prevent the choke assembly from coming loose in
> the future.
>
> Now, after removing the socket, feed the end of the outer cable through
> the hole in the firewall between the 2 "splitter" assembly securing screws.
>
> Now push the choke control all the way in.
>
> Next reinstall the "splitter" assembly such that the inner cable protrudes
> into the splitter.
>
> Install the trunnion through the splitter block and then clamp the inner
> cable into the trunnion.
>
> There should be little or no inner cable protruding through the splitter
> block.
>
> Flat rate time 0.3 hours. ??
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 5, 2020, 10:44 AM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out
> for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out
> of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable
> sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke
> bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to
> start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.
>
>
>
> This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need
> more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through
> the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back
> of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does
> anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back
> through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have
> to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?
>
>
>
> Help!
>
>
>
> Fred
>
> 66BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> <https://eur05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C48bec3c2c2504012530208d7a9e6f107%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637164681660907131&sdata=Xqf33XdbOPm99M7Ejc%2BxYADBaEFhZLI3psagTRxujhU%3D&reserved=0>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Feb  5 00:36:03 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 23:36:03 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V6=G9z_Z2Ph8J1MR9YG3Tk22RuSUYGepiAb2KCLu29BVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-MFPrtQ07yPuEYXPjeu+oXmETdw3tSPPrrhHWGZ4XiWQ@mail.gmail.com>

If lhd
I er ould get out of the car
Lift the hood
Msnually hold the chokes open while some one starts the car. Hold on intil
the car warms up.  I started my car this way after converting to hd8 carbs
before I could get the correct choke bits installed.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 1:45 PM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Temps are the upper 60's today so I went to the garage to take the BJ8 out
> for a run.  I pulled the choke knob and the entire choke assembly came out
> of the dash.  I do mean the entire assembly, the knob as well as the cable
> sheath came out of the dash.  The sheath disconnected from the choke
> bracket on the fire wall.  So here I am, a beautiful day and no choke to
> start the car with!  I've never had this happen before.
>
> This situation is not one of the items on my to-do-list!  I don't need
> more stuff to do.  I tried looking under the dash to see the hole through
> the firewall but it appears that the hole is above and or behind the back
> of the heater.  I cannot see daylight through the firewall hole.  Does
> anyone have ideas or suggestions on how to put the choke assembly back
> through the dash and fire wall without removing the entire dash?  Do I have
> to actually remove the heater box to put the choke back in the car?
>
> Help!
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb  5 07:55:32 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 14:55:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.? The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.? I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.? ?Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?? It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.? Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.? I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Feb  5 08:18:16 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 15:18:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <179298974.877725.1580915896430@mail.yahoo.com>

Mike couldn't you just put yours on and off as needed?? You don't have to put the retaining clip on.? Just a thought.


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 5, 2020 9:55 am
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.? The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.? I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.? ?Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?? It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.? Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.? I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb  5 09:36:50 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 16:36:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <179298974.877725.1580915896430@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
 <179298974.877725.1580915896430@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <120496050.928275.1580920610436@mail.yahoo.com>

 That might work except the fit on the splines is quite tight.? Putting it on and taking it off doesn't look to be an easy task in itself.? My thinking is to preserve the new state of the steering wheel until I finally put it on when it's time to drive the car.? Putting it on and taking it off just invites little scratches and nicks.Mike M

    On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 7:18:22 AM PST, Keith Pennell <llennep at verizon.net> wrote:  
 
 Mike couldn't you just put yours on and off as needed?? You don't have to put the retaining clip on.? Just a thought.


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 5, 2020 9:55 am
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.? The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.? I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.? ?Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?? It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.? Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.? I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From gilrockwell at gmail.com  Wed Feb  5 09:40:49 2020
From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 11:40:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <012201d5dc43$06629060$1327b120$@gmail.com>

My suggestion is to get 4 of the 4 wheel car dollies from Harbor Freight or other supplier and you will be able to maneuver the car however you need.  Much easier than trying to wrestle the steering wheel?.

 

Gil

61 BT7

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.  The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.  I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.   Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?  It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.  Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.  I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.

Mike MacLean

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Feb  5 09:49:02 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:49:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <012201d5dc43$06629060$1327b120$@gmail.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
 <012201d5dc43$06629060$1327b120$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88rQMdHXFam7_9NEduygbhVGLQbKajow8YiWPKhNjFZOg@mail.gmail.com>

I use the dollies in my garage. They work great

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Wed, Feb 5, 2020, 8:41 AM Gil Rockwell <gilrockwell at gmail.com> wrote:

> My suggestion is to get 4 of the 4 wheel car dollies from Harbor Freight
> or other supplier and you will be able to maneuver the car however you
> need.  Much easier than trying to wrestle the steering wheel?.
>
>
>
> Gil
>
> 61 BT7
>
>
>
>
> *__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________*
>
> I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas
> of the car.  The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike
> Lempert.  I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the
> rebuild environment.   Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that
> would fit the splines on my car?  It doesn't even have to be an original
> Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels
> pushing the car around the garage.  Let me help you clean up that garage of
> yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far
> gone.  I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb  5 09:59:17 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 16:59:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <012201d5dc43$06629060$1327b120$@gmail.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
 <012201d5dc43$06629060$1327b120$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <395932416.965689.1580921957504@mail.yahoo.com>

 OK, I get it about the dollies.? Right now I have the car on two home made supports that ride on two of the sheet metal dollies that everyone is referring to.? Ultimately, my purpose for the temporary steering wheel is to be able to wheel the car to the paint shop to repair the paint that the last idiot screwed up in a couple of spots and refused to honor any kind of guarantee after spending almost eleven thousand dollars.? When I finally fit the steering wheel I have to the car I will try to make it a better fit by cleaning up the splines on the column so it slides on better.? I just don't want to send it to a body shop with that wheel on it.? You can see in the picture the wood dollies I built to work on the car, move it around and bring it up to a height that would not break my back to work on.? I can't take it to the paint shop on those dollies.? That picture was before I had the suspension in the car.? Today I am going to a tire installer that has been installing wire wheels on Austin Healeys and other classic cars for 45 years.? He also shave the tires to make them round and knows how to balance a center lock wire wheel properly.? He's right here in SoCal (Signal Hill).? Today I will be putting four used tires on my new Dayton rims for occasions when I need to move it on wheels like this.? I am also have four new tires put on my MGB BT wire wheels for the MGB GT I recently bought.? Turns out the tires that were on the car were installed in 1999.? Should ride a little better now that the petrified tires will be replaced.
Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 8:40:54 AM PST, Gil Rockwell <gilrockwell at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv9763539745 #yiv9763539745 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9763539745 #yiv9763539745 p.yiv9763539745MsoNormal, #yiv9763539745 li.yiv9763539745MsoNormal, #yiv9763539745 div.yiv9763539745MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv9763539745 a:link, #yiv9763539745 span.yiv9763539745MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9763539745 a:visited, #yiv9763539745 span.yiv9763539745MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9763539745 span.yiv9763539745EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv9763539745 .yiv9763539745MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv9763539745 div.yiv9763539745WordSection1 {}#yiv9763539745 
My suggestion is to get 4 of the 4 wheel car dollies from Harbor Freight or other supplier and you will be able to maneuver the car however you need.? Much easier than trying to wrestle the steering wheel?.

 ?

Gil

61 BT7

 ?

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.? The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.? I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.? ?Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?? It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.? Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.? I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.

Mike MacLean

 ?
  
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Feb  5 10:56:08 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 17:56:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] LED headlight and aux light conversion
In-Reply-To: <03f301d5dae9$aaf49b10$00ddd130$@roadrunner.com>
References: <03f301d5dae9$aaf49b10$00ddd130$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <d743dde1-4a75-ba43-31d8-60848547e69b@summaventures.com>

Great to see Bruce. Outdriving your lights is always an issue. Glad to
see it solved.

Peter

On 03/02/2020 23:28, Bruce Steele wrote:
> I posted this on the various Healey Facebook pages, but recognizing that
> not everyone does Facebook, I?ll add to the list.? I finally got around
> to converting my halogen sealed beams to LED using the kit from Little
> British Car Company.? Even though the price went up a few dollars since
> I bought the kit, it is still a great value (currently $81.00).? After
> much searching, I also found LEDs to replace the P36S incandescent bulbs
> in my auxiliary lights at LEDLight.com, part #74869W. ?I had to spend
> some time on a deserted side road aiming everything, but I am very happy
> with the results.? The attached photo clearly shows the difference.? I
> don?t out-drive my lights anymore!
> 
> ?
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb  5 11:18:31 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2020 10:18:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
Message-ID: <1b698741a8cf5f4de5d0d1f98fc6e37ab80b6aa7@>


You guys missed it-at least no one commented...in the picture I sent
of the overdrive relays, was my wood steering wheel. Now seen here in
this photo in the early restoration stages. This works fine to get it
around the shop in a limited use way. My Healey steering wheel is in
perfect condition as a result even after body shop/painting. Hank,
healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 5 2020 6:56:02AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel

 I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different
areas of the car. The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood
wheel by Mike Lempert. I would rather not expose such a nice steering
wheel to the rebuild environment. Does anyone have a ratty old
steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car? It doesn't even
have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so
I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage. Let me
help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel
hanging on the wall that's too far gone. I cringe at the idea of a
pair of vice grips deforming the splines.  Mike MacLean

  Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android [1]   

Links:
------
[1]
https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&amp;c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&amp;af_wl=ym&amp;af_sub1=Internal&amp;af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&amp;af_sub3=EmailSignature

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Feb  5 13:08:55 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 15:08:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005a01d5dc60$18a538f0$49efaad0$@gmail.com>

Mike:

 

I have a steering wheel you are welcome to ? just repay for the shipping. I have no idea whether all the splines are the same on these cars, and I got the wheel at a swap meet (so I don?t know what it was on to begin with?).

 

A couple of pictures are attached.

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Wednesday, February 5, 2020 9:56 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel

 

I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas of the car.  The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike Lempert.  I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the rebuild environment.   Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that would fit the splines on my car?  It doesn't even have to be an original Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels pushing the car around the garage.  Let me help you clean up that garage of yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far gone.  I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.

Mike MacLean

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb  5 14:14:06 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2020 10:14:06 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <005a01d5dc60$18a538f0$49efaad0$@gmail.com>
References: <1662282841.871347.1580914532569.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1662282841.871347.1580914532569@mail.yahoo.com>
 <005a01d5dc60$18a538f0$49efaad0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL1Gosh+X0-J5j6gHPzBwNp0iwBnyZmb8odNVAS_VT95A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Mike & Art,
I don't think that wheel will work on Mike's BN2 as his car should have a
non-adjustable wheel which uses a tapered spline.
Non- adjustable wheels are not easy to find these days.

M

On Thu, Feb 6, 2020, 9:53 AM , <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike:
>
>
>
> I have a steering wheel you are welcome to ? just repay for the shipping.
> I have no idea whether all the splines are the same on these cars, and I
> got the wheel at a swap meet (so I don?t know what it was on to begin
> with?).
>
>
>
> A couple of pictures are attached.
>
>
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> MacLean
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 5, 2020 9:56 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] 100-4 Steering Wheel
>
>
>
> I need to move my project BN2 around the garage to work on different areas
> of the car.  The only steering wheel I have is a custom wood wheel by Mike
> Lempert.  I would rather not expose such a nice steering wheel to the
> rebuild environment.   Does anyone have a ratty old steering wheel that
> would fit the splines on my car?  It doesn't even have to be an original
> Healey wheel, just something that would fit so I can turn the front wheels
> pushing the car around the garage.  Let me help you clean up that garage of
> yours and sell me that steering wheel hanging on the wall that's too far
> gone.  I cringe at the idea of a pair of vice grips deforming the splines.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Thu Feb  6 04:12:36 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2020 22:12:36 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Adjustable Armstrong shock absorbers
Message-ID: <C873FC8C-E83A-4317-8A58-DAAEBFC6835D@gmail.com>

I know this is a long shot, but has anyone got a spare lonely Left hand Armstrong adjustable shock absorber that is missing its Right hand partner? That they would sell?
Let me know 
Best
Chris

From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Feb  6 11:17:00 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2020 18:17:00 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
Message-ID: <000001d5dd19$a30b5f10$e9221d30$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I am installing a remote clutch bleeder of the type that's been discussed on
this list from time to time. (Comes up from underneath with a bracket that
goes under one of the gearbox bolts).

So, I thought I'd replace the clutch pipe and rebuild the slave cylinder at
the same time. (Wise?) precautions..certainly, these things are at least 25
years old.

The bleed nipple was solid to the cylinder body as was the pipe and neither
would twitch until I had the assembly in a big vice.

The interior of the cylinder was filled with some dried out but slightly
greasy flakey nastiness. God knows what.

I need to undo the so-called "nut for hose", item 18 in the attached. Does
anyone know it's size? 

Thanks,

Simon

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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Thu Feb  6 14:59:40 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2020 16:59:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Rivets
Message-ID: <034c01d5dd38$bb66a0f0$3233e2d0$@gmail.com>

Last year Jean Caron provided an excellent drawing of the rivets involved in the windshield posts for a BJ8.

I realize that some people are not disassembling that post when they have the windshield frame parts rechromed, but my chrome plater points out that there will be some acid trapped under the loose metal that blocks access to the top hook if one does not take the post apart.   Consequently I'm expecting her to take the post apart prior to plating.   

The good news is that the whole post will be properly plated.  The bad news:  I need to find a source for the rivets.

According to Jean Caron's diagram, I will need

Four rivets - D: 0.143, H: 0.233, L: 0.361 (shortened to 0.240) rivets for the top hooks
Ten rivets  - D: 0.141, H: 0.314, L: 0.375 (shortened to 0.289) rivets for connecting the two major pieces at the side
Eight rivets - D: 0.183, H: 0.343, L: 0.365 (shortened to 0.240) rivets for connecting the two major pieces at the bottom
Four rivets - D 0.184, H: 0.343, L0.267 (shortened to 0.245) rivets for connecting the insert within the posts (countersunk head)

I gather rivets might be obtained from Hanson Rivet and Supply Company.

However, don't know what material the rivets were made of.

Does anyone know more about these rivets?.... should they be stainless steel?,  Brass?, Mild Steel?, Aluminum?

Lastly, what tools are needed to squeeze these rivets....can a hand squeezer do the job?  (Hansonrivet tool HS-30?)

All comments and responses gratefully received.

Thanks
-skip-




From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Thu Feb  6 18:47:52 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 14:47:52 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000001d5dd19$a30b5f10$e9221d30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d5dd19$a30b5f10$e9221d30$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <000801d5dd58$9dc7df80$d9579e80$@xtra.co.nz>

9/16 inch AF or UNF

 

Mark

 

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 7 February 2020 7:17 a.m.
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder

 

I am installing a remote clutch bleeder of the type that's been discussed on
this list from time to time. (Comes up from underneath with a bracket that
goes under one of the gearbox bolts).

So, I thought I'd replace the clutch pipe and rebuild the slave cylinder at
the same time. (Wise?) precautions..certainly, these things are at least 25
years old.

The bleed nipple was solid to the cylinder body as was the pipe and neither
would twitch until I had the assembly in a big vice.

The interior of the cylinder was filled with some dried out but slightly
greasy flakey nastiness. God knows what.

I need to undo the so-called "nut for hose", item 18 in the attached. Does
anyone know it's size? 

Thanks,

Simon

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Feb  6 19:16:21 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 02:16:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000801d5dd58$9dc7df80$d9579e80$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000001d5dd19$a30b5f10$e9221d30$@alexarevel.plus.com>,
 <000801d5dd58$9dc7df80$d9579e80$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <DM5PR07MB34333D12A5C4C36B933F7FE6A51C0@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

3/8? UNF is the thread size. 9/16? is the wrench size.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Friday, February 7, 2020 1:47:52 AM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder


9/16 inch AF or UNF



Mark



Ardmore

NZ



From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Sent: Friday, 7 February 2020 7:17 a.m.
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder



I am installing a remote clutch bleeder of the type that?s been discussed on this list from time to time. (Comes up from underneath with a bracket that goes under one of the gearbox bolts).

So, I thought I?d replace the clutch pipe and rebuild the slave cylinder at the same time. (Wise?) precautions?.certainly, these things are at least 25 years old.

The bleed nipple was solid to the cylinder body as was the pipe and neither would twitch until I had the assembly in a big vice.

The interior of the cylinder was filled with some dried out but slightly greasy flakey nastiness. God knows what.

I need to undo the so-called ?nut for hose?, item 18 in the attached. Does anyone know it?s size?

Thanks,

Simon
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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Feb  6 20:10:55 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 03:10:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Rivets
In-Reply-To: <034c01d5dd38$bb66a0f0$3233e2d0$@gmail.com>
References: <034c01d5dd38$bb66a0f0$3233e2d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM5PR07MB34338FC868FBA8338D984C39A51C0@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

British car specialists.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of skip saunders <tfsbj7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2020 9:59:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield Rivets

Last year Jean Caron provided an excellent drawing of the rivets involved in the windshield posts for a BJ8.

I realize that some people are not disassembling that post when they have the windshield frame parts rechromed, but my chrome plater points out that there will be some acid trapped under the loose metal that blocks access to the top hook if one does not take the post apart.   Consequently I'm expecting her to take the post apart prior to plating.

The good news is that the whole post will be properly plated.  The bad news:  I need to find a source for the rivets.

According to Jean Caron's diagram, I will need

Four rivets - D: 0.143, H: 0.233, L: 0.361 (shortened to 0.240) rivets for the top hooks
Ten rivets  - D: 0.141, H: 0.314, L: 0.375 (shortened to 0.289) rivets for connecting the two major pieces at the side
Eight rivets - D: 0.183, H: 0.343, L: 0.365 (shortened to 0.240) rivets for connecting the two major pieces at the bottom
Four rivets - D 0.184, H: 0.343, L0.267 (shortened to 0.245) rivets for connecting the insert within the posts (countersunk head)

I gather rivets might be obtained from Hanson Rivet and Supply Company.

However, don't know what material the rivets were made of.

Does anyone know more about these rivets?.... should they be stainless steel?,  Brass?, Mild Steel?, Aluminum?

Lastly, what tools are needed to squeeze these rivets....can a hand squeezer do the job?  (Hansonrivet tool HS-30?)

All comments and responses gratefully received.

Thanks
-skip-



_______________________________________________
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Feb  7 09:28:32 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2020 08:28:32 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
Message-ID: <0cca34c0edeab5381072386af5fb3b7f83faa7f8@>

If you don't want to mess up the fitting, use a flare nut wrench. It
can get on with the line attached and it grips about 3/4 of the body.
Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" 
To: "Mark Donaldson", "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday February 6 2020 6:17:41PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder

  3/8? UNF is the thread size. 9/16? is the wrench size. 
-------------------------
  FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Mark Donaldson 
 SENT: Friday, February 7, 2020 1:47:52 AM
 TO: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com ; 'Healeys' 
 SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder      

	9/16 inch AF or UNF 

	Mark 

	Ardmore 

	NZ 

	FROM: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  
 SENT: Friday, 7 February 2020 7:17 a.m.
 TO: 'Healeys' 
 SUBJECT: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder   

	I am installing a remote clutch bleeder of the type that?s been
discussed on this list from time to time. (Comes up from underneath
with a bracket that goes under one of the gearbox bolts). 

	So, I thought I?d replace the clutch pipe and rebuild the slave
cylinder at the same time. (Wise?) precautions?.certainly, these
things are at least 25 years old. 

	The bleed nipple was solid to the cylinder body as was the pipe and
neither would twitch until I had the assembly in a big vice. 

	The interior of the cylinder was filled with some dried out but
slightly greasy flakey nastiness. God knows what. 

	I need to undo the so-called ?nut for hose?, item 18 in the
attached. Does anyone know it?s size?  

	Thanks, 

	Simon
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Feb  9 09:34:28 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 11:34:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rudy?
Message-ID: <b4aeb529-50f6-ccd0-00b8-3deac531ac09@earthlink.net>

Listers,

Is Rudy Streng still with us?  He use to have the 100-6 registry and had 
an Austin-Healey trailer.  I ran across this ebay auction: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Austin-Healey-100-6-Rudy-Streng-display-placard-framed-West-Redding-Ct/193330422007?hash=item2d036420f7:g:o8QAAOSw3lxeOFBH


Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Feb  9 10:41:04 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 17:41:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Filling steering box
References: <746838433.437652.1581270064390.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <746838433.437652.1581270064390@mail.yahoo.com>

Found what for me was a quick, easy, nonmessy way to add to/fill the steering box.
Bought a plastic condiment bottle with tapered point on cap from Bed, Bath and Beyond.? Paid around $2.? On the advice of a respected Healey friend and follower of this list I purchased 140wt gear oil from O'Reillys Auto Parts.? Filled the bottle, moved it into above the box, tipped the tip into the fill opening and squeezed.?? The 140 wt is about 1 1/2 times the viscosity of motor oil.? Took 8-10 minutes and 1.5 bottles full to fill the box.? Worked really well!!? Maybe not do as well with some of these high viscosity products I hear you guys may use. ? Don't know.
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Feb  9 11:55:59 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 13:55:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Speaking of 100-Six
References: <CF215B54-BD69-4FEE-99F1-2668B1EAEA39.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CF215B54-BD69-4FEE-99F1-2668B1EAEA39@aol.com>

Listers
How about this interesting combination. Early BN4 head with Dollerto carb and fabricated manifold. Never heard it run so I don?t know how well it worked. 
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From manifold at telus.net  Sun Feb  9 16:05:06 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 15:05:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
Message-ID: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel tubing. I am
having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to connect to the fuel pump.
Picture attached. Based on measurements of the olive and nut for the fuel
line between the pump and the tank the size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am not
completely familiar with BSPP fittings but I know they have their own unique
seat angle which is why I don't want to mix and match.
 
Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?
 
Thanks... Harold
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Feb  9 17:05:27 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2020 00:05:27 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
In-Reply-To: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
References: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>

See :-

http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive

Could it be item AUA 1486?

If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the item.
Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: 09 February 2020 23:05
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut

 

Hello,

 

I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel tubing. I am
having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to connect to the fuel pump.
Picture attached. Based on measurements of the olive and nut for the fuel
line between the pump and the tank the size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am not
completely familiar with BSPP fittings but I know they have their own unique
seat angle which is why I don't want to mix and match.

 

Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?

 

Thanks... Harold

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb  9 18:46:18 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 17:46:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
In-Reply-To: <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
 <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>

This guy might be able to help:

https://www.sufuelpump.com

There's no olives on my BJ8 pump--I've changed it out many times--and I 
don't recall one on my BN2, either (and I don't see one in the Moss 
catalog).? Where does this olive go?

Bob


On 2/9/2020 4:05 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> See :-
>
> http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
>
> Could it be item AUA 1486?
>
> If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the 
> item. Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold 
> Manifold
> *Sent:* 09 February 2020 23:05
> *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
>
> Hello,
>
> I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel tubing. 
> I am having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to connect to the 
> fuel pump. Picture attached. Based on measurements of the olive and 
> nut for the fuel line between the pump and the tank the size is BSPP 
> 1/4" x 5/16". I am not completely familiar with BSPP fittings but I 
> know they have their own unique seat angle which is why I don't want 
> to mix and match.
>
> Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?
>
> Thanks... Harold
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb  9 19:09:49 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 18:09:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
In-Reply-To: <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>
References: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
 <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <75491930-3ed4-0024-e5ad-0abda3a0f7cc@comcast.net>

Didn't see the photos; caught in my spam folder.? Anyway, it appears the 
setup between BN1/2 and BJ8s was different (square body pump?).

It looks like the Moss 'elbow assembly' includes the olive; 375-038.

On 2/9/2020 5:46 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> This guy might be able to help:
>
> https://www.sufuelpump.com
>
> There's no olives on my BJ8 pump--I've changed it out many times--and 
> I don't recall one on my BN2, either (and I don't see one in the Moss 
> catalog).? Where does this olive go?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 2/9/2020 4:05 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> See :-
>>
>> http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
>>
>> Could it be item AUA 1486?
>>
>> If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the 
>> item. Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold 
>> Manifold
>> *Sent:* 09 February 2020 23:05
>> *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel 
>> tubing. I am having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to 
>> connect to the fuel pump. Picture attached. Based on measurements of 
>> the olive and nut for the fuel line between the pump and the tank the 
>> size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am not completely familiar with BSPP 
>> fittings but I know they have their own unique seat angle which is 
>> why I don't want to mix and match.
>>
>> Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?
>>
>> Thanks... Harold
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Feb  9 19:16:04 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 18:16:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
In-Reply-To: <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>
References: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
 <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRaKhEPfEeWbH8fmtEauSqm4p+Xk3F2eEMujtERVbLW3g@mail.gmail.com>

Harold,

*BSPP* or British Standard Pipe Parallel is one of the five basic
"Whitworth" Thread Form fasteners used on Austin Healeys.  The other four
include in the order of most to least prevalent...* BSF* (British Standard
Fine),  *BSW* (British Standard Whitworth), *BSPT* (British Standard Pipe
Tapered), and lastly  *BSB* (British Standard Brass).

Whitworth fasteners are those fasteners that by definition (The British
Standards) have a 55 degree thread pitch angle versus the 60 degree thread
pitch angle of most other fasteners.  Also the TPI or (Threads Per Inch)
are in most, BUT NOT ALL cases different from their UNF/UNC counterparts.
Finally the hex sizes are different but contrary to popular belief, it is
NOT the head size that determines whether a fastener is Whitworth or not,
it is in fact the thread pitch angle of 55 degrees (as previously stated).


Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 5:52 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> This guy might be able to help:
>
> https://www.sufuelpump.com
>
> There's no olives on my BJ8 pump--I've changed it out many times--and I
> don't recall one on my BN2, either (and I don't see one in the Moss
> catalog).  Where does this olive go?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 2/9/2020 4:05 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> See :-
>
> http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
>
> Could it be item AUA 1486?
>
> If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the item.
> Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold Manifold
> *Sent:* 09 February 2020 23:05
> *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel tubing. I
> am having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to connect to the fuel
> pump. Picture attached. Based on measurements of the olive and nut for the
> fuel line between the pump and the tank the size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am
> not completely familiar with BSPP fittings but I know they have their own
> unique seat angle which is why I don't want to mix and match.
>
>
>
> Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?
>
>
>
> Thanks... Harold
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Feb  9 19:19:37 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2020 18:19:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRaKhEPfEeWbH8fmtEauSqm4p+Xk3F2eEMujtERVbLW3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9459D00D910F4D849C8CBD1996EFA312@AllInOne>
 <000001d5dfa5$ce077210$6a165630$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <476fbc52-d61e-563e-89aa-ba73245a2702@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeRaKhEPfEeWbH8fmtEauSqm4p+Xk3F2eEMujtERVbLW3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQDbS4xoQ8V4uHGPC0JmS6xgLrKo9tP2OJ8hGbmsUk7MQ@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding where to source these fasteners, The late Doug Reid is where I
used to get mine.  But now, Joe Curto may have them.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 6:16 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Harold,
>
> *BSPP* or British Standard Pipe Parallel is one of the five basic
> "Whitworth" Thread Form fasteners used on Austin Healeys.  The other four
> include in the order of most to least prevalent...* BSF* (British
> Standard Fine),  *BSW* (British Standard Whitworth), *BSPT* (British
> Standard Pipe Tapered), and lastly  *BSB* (British Standard Brass).
>
> Whitworth fasteners are those fasteners that by definition (The British
> Standards) have a 55 degree thread pitch angle versus the 60 degree thread
> pitch angle of most other fasteners.  Also the TPI or (Threads Per Inch)
> are in most, BUT NOT ALL cases different from their UNF/UNC counterparts.
> Finally the hex sizes are different but contrary to popular belief, it is
> NOT the head size that determines whether a fastener is Whitworth or not,
> it is in fact the thread pitch angle of 55 degrees (as previously stated).
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 5:52 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> This guy might be able to help:
>>
>> https://www.sufuelpump.com
>>
>> There's no olives on my BJ8 pump--I've changed it out many times--and I
>> don't recall one on my BN2, either (and I don't see one in the Moss
>> catalog).  Where does this olive go?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 2/9/2020 4:05 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> See :-
>>
>> http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
>>
>> Could it be item AUA 1486?
>>
>> If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the
>> item. Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Harold Manifold
>> *Sent:* 09 February 2020 23:05
>> *To:* Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>>
>>
>> I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel tubing. I
>> am having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to connect to the fuel
>> pump. Picture attached. Based on measurements of the olive and nut for the
>> fuel line between the pump and the tank the size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am
>> not completely familiar with BSPP fittings but I know they have their own
>> unique seat angle which is why I don't want to mix and match.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks... Harold
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Feb  9 20:41:46 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2020 19:41:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut
Message-ID: <f98a5e3bf847cbc0e911652e5128b8214d2f5965@>

Folks-let's not forget our favorite fasteners: BA...these are all the
small ones that you drop and never find. Here is some info:

	BA sizes are specified by the following British Standards [1]:

	* BS 57:1951 ? B.A. screws, bolts and nuts
	* BS 93:1951 ? Specification for British Association (B.A.) screw
threads with tolerances for sizes 0 B.A. to 16 B.A.
	* BS 93:2008 ? British Association (B.A.) screw threads ?
Requirements

	The angle of the thread is 47.5?[4] [2]:2 and the depth of thread is
0.6 times the pitch with rounded tops and bottoms. Thus the shortening
at the crest and root is given by 0.26817_p_ with a radius of
0.18083_p_ at both crest and root.[4] [3]:2 The 1884 report specifies
a radius of 2/11_p_ ? 0.181818_p_ but this was an approximation to
the correct value.

	The pitch diameter of the thread is simply OD ? 0.6_p_ and the
minor diameter is OD ? 1.2_p_.

	The thread angle is different from that used by Whitworth (55?), US
Unified threads (60?) and ISO Metric (60?) so BA fasteners are not
properly interchangeable with Whitworth or metric ones even when the
pitch and diameter are similar enough that they can be screwed
together (e.g., although 0BA appears similar to M6?1mm, the male and
female surfaces do not mate properly for bearing a load). Standard BA
sizes are defined between 0BA and 22BA. The even sizes are much more
common and the very small sizes are not used very often and other
standards tend to be used (e.g., NHS).

		BA
		THREAD PITCH
		OUTSIDE DIAMETER
		THREADS DENSITY
		OUTSIDE DIAMETER
		SPANNER

		(MM)
		(MM)
		(IN?1)
		(IN)
		(MM)
		(IN)

		0
		1.00
		6.00
		25.40
		0.2362
		10.5000
		0.4134

		1
		0.90
		5.30
		28.22
		0.2087
		9.2750
		0.3652

		2
		0.81
		4.70
		31.36
		0.1850
		8.2250
		0.3238

		3
		0.73
		4.10
		34.79
		0.1614
		7.1750
		0.2825

		4
		0.66
		3.60
		38.48
		0.1417
		6.3000
		0.2480

		5
		0.59
		3.20
		43.05
		0.1260
		5.6000
		0.2205

		6
		0.53
		2.80
		47.92
		0.1102
		4.9000
		0.1929

		7
		0.48
		2.50
		52.92
		0.0984
		4.3750
		0.1722

		8
		0.43
		2.20
		59.07
		0.0866
		3.8500
		0.1516

		9
		0.39
		1.90
		65.13
		0.0748
		3.3250
		0.1309

		10
		0.35
		1.70
		72.57
		0.0669
		2.9750
		0.1171

		?

		25
		0.072
		0.25
		352.78
		0.0098
		0.4375
		0.0172

You can obtain these and the tools to turn them with from:
Britishfasteners.com in Lyons, N.Y. They have a great selection. I
have a nice set of King Dick BA wrenches in a pouch, which I purchased
from them. Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Curtis Arndt" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Harold Manifold"
Cc: "Healey List"
Sent: Sunday February 9 2020 6:20:04PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut

  Regarding where to source these fasteners, The late Doug Reid is
where I used to get mine. But now, Joe Curto may have them.  
   Cheers,   
   Curt   
   On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 6:16 PM Curtis Arndt  wrote:
    Harold,  
   BSPP or British Standard Pipe Parallel is one of the five basic
"Whitworth" Thread Form fasteners used on Austin Healeys. The other
four include in the order of most to least prevalent... BSF (British
Standard Fine), BSW (British Standard Whitworth), BSPT (British
Standard Pipe Tapered), and lastly BSB (British Standard Brass).   
   Whitworth fasteners are those fasteners that by definition (The
British Standards) have a 55 degree thread pitch angle versus the 60
degree thread pitch angle of most other fasteners. Also the TPI or
(Threads Per Inch) are in most, BUT NOT ALL cases different from their
UNF/UNC counterparts. Finally the hex sizes are different but contrary
to popular belief, it is NOT the head size that determines whether a
fastener is Whitworth or not, it is in fact the thread pitch angle of
55 degrees (as previously stated).   
   Cheers,   
   Curt   
   On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 5:52 PM Bob Spidell  wrote:
    This guy might be able to help:

 [6]https://www.sufuelpump.com [7]

 There's no olives on my BJ8 pump--I've changed it out many times--and
I don't recall one on my BN2, either (and I don't see one in the Moss
catalog). Where does this olive go?

 Bob

  On 2/9/2020 4:05 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com [8] wrote:

	See :- 

	 [9]http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive [10] 

	Could it be item AUA 1486? 

	If you were feeling sneaky, you could ring them up and check out the
item. Then, armed with precise details, buy it locally. 

	Simon 

	FROM: Healeys  [11] ON BEHALF OF Harold Manifold
 SENT: 09 February 2020 23:05
 TO: Healey List  [12]
 SUBJECT: [Healeys] Fuel Line BSPP Olive and Nut   

	Hello,   

	I made a new fuel line for my Mk1 BT7 from 5/16" copper nickel
tubing. I am having trouble finding the proper olive and nut to
connect to the fuel pump. Picture attached. Based on measurements of
the olive and nut for the fuel line between the pump and the tank the
size is BSPP 1/4" x 5/16". I am not completely familiar with BSPP
fittings but I know they have their own unique seat angle which is why
I don't want to mix and match.   

	Any recommendations for a source for these fittings?   

	Thanks... Harold   

  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net [13]http://www.team.net/donate.html [14]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: [15]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [16]
[17]http://autox.team.net/archive [18]

 Healeys at autox.team.net [19]
 [20]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [21]

 Unsubscribe/Manage:
[22]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
[23]

     

Links:
------
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standards
[2]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads#cite_note-bs93:2008-4
[3]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads#cite_note-bs93:2008-4
[4] mailto:cnaarndt at gmail.com
[5] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[6] https://www.sufuelpump.com
[7] https://www.sufuelpump.com
[8] mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
[9] http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
[10] http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=olive
[11] mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[12] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
[13] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[14] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[15] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[16] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[17] http://autox.team.net/archive
[18] http://autox.team.net/archive
[19] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net
[20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[21] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[22] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
[23] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 10 21:26:14 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2020 20:26:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Loss of LBC Guy
Message-ID: <10337527-9369-7414-ecc7-627f249e3350@comcast.net>

Not involved with Healeys AFAIK, but a kindred spirit nonetheless.

https://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Morgan-car-importer-Bill-Fink-dies-in-Bodega-Bay-15045765.php

From editorgary at aol.com  Tue Feb 11 12:41:34 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 19:41:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale
References: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398@mail.yahoo.com>

I just got a phone call this morning from a friend who had heard from some local folks in the Pebble Beach Sportscar Club that "a 1954 Healey 100 that had been a class winner at Pebble Beach would be coming up for sale at auction soon" but he didn't know anything more than that.
SInce my friend doesn't know much Healey history, he wouldn't know that there was one and only one Austin-Healey 100 that ever appeared on the field at the Pebble Beach Concours (there was a much-modified Healey-based car a year or two ago in a special racing class, but that doesn't count here). That would have been the original demo Healey that Donald Healey drove crosscountry in 1953, and that Healey was shown at Pebble Beach with a best-in-class or best-in-show award to its credit (I've forgotten which, and my book is moot on the point, but does note that the car is still in existence and owned by a private party).
So, does anyone know anything more about the potential sale of the demo car, or some car that sounds similar?

Let us know.
Gary Anderson
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Feb 11 12:46:21 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 19:46:21 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
Message-ID: <000001d5e113$f078bb50$d16a31f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I am trying to get my head around the workings of the clutch slave cylinder
in my MkII BT7.

Plainly the fluid comes in the back, underneath and pushes the rod outwards
ie towards the rear of the car.

1.	So, what is the purpose of the spring behind the piston/rubber? 
2.	Is that (silly little) spring supposed to do anything? It certainly
doesn't seem want to push the piston anywhere..
3.	With the slave cylinder on the bench, I can push the piston in with
my thumb. Bit stiff, but I suppose that's to be expected. How easy should it
be and should it spring back? 
4.	I've used a rebuild kit from one of our better suppliers..are these
kits problematical? I recall that, for example, the servo rebuild kits
were/are notorious.

I rebuilt it, reinstalled it and the whole issue was solid as a rock. No
movement of the rod at all...

I'm going wrong somewhere. Surprise, surprise! But it seemed like a
straightforward task and, barring some access issues, the spanner work is
simple enough.

Any clues?

Simon

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Feb 11 13:44:34 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 15:44:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale
In-Reply-To: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeP2vtYR3JBum2fi-5rsrXntdcxk4-FHgxn4eNktHgXyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Gary,

It was a Best of Show winner.  Here's a pic:
https://pebblebeachconcours.net/gallery/best-of-show/

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 2:42 PM editorgary--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I just got a phone call this morning from a friend who had heard from some
> local folks in the Pebble Beach Sportscar Club that "a 1954 Healey 100 that
> had been a class winner at Pebble Beach would be coming up for sale at
> auction soon" but he didn't know anything more than that.
>
> SInce my friend doesn't know much Healey history, he wouldn't know that
> there was one and only one Austin-Healey 100 that ever appeared on the
> field at the Pebble Beach Concours (there was a much-modified Healey-based
> car a year or two ago in a special racing class, but that doesn't count
> here). That would have been the original demo Healey that Donald Healey
> drove crosscountry in 1953, and that Healey was shown at Pebble Beach with
> a best-in-class or best-in-show award to its credit (I've forgotten which,
> and my book is moot on the point, but does note that the car is still in
> existence and owned by a private party).
>
> So, does anyone know anything more about the potential sale of the demo
> car, or some car that sounds similar?
>
> Let us know.
>
> Gary Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From editorgary at aol.com  Tue Feb 11 13:49:21 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 20:49:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeP2vtYR3JBum2fi-5rsrXntdcxk4-FHgxn4eNktHgXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZeP2vtYR3JBum2fi-5rsrXntdcxk4-FHgxn4eNktHgXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <584764656.1159541.1581454161487@mail.yahoo.com>

 Thanks for that info, Rik. There is a question as to whether that was the same Healey that Donald showed in New York and Miami, and photographed on the Stanford campus, but I'm also still wondering if it is actually for sale at some auction this spring.Any other information would be appreciated. I did hear from Jean Caron that the Pebble Beach Concours is trying to assemble as many of the Best-in-Show cars and at last report couldn't find this one.Gary
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
To: Gary Anderson <editorgary at aol.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2020 12:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale

Gary,
It was a Best of Show winner.? Here's a pic:??https://pebblebeachconcours.net/gallery/best-of-show/
On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 2:42 PM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I just got a phone call this morning from a friend who had heard from some local folks in the Pebble Beach Sportscar Club that "a 1954 Healey 100 that had been a class winner at Pebble Beach would be coming up for sale at auction soon" but he didn't know anything more than that.
SInce my friend doesn't know much Healey history, he wouldn't know that there was one and only one Austin-Healey 100 that ever appeared on the field at the Pebble Beach Concours (there was a much-modified Healey-based car a year or two ago in a special racing class, but that doesn't count here). That would have been the original demo Healey that Donald Healey drove crosscountry in 1953, and that Healey was shown at Pebble Beach with a best-in-class or best-in-show award to its credit (I've forgotten which, and my book is moot on the point, but does note that the car is still in existence and owned by a private party).
So, does anyone know anything more about the potential sale of the demo car, or some car that sounds similar?

Let us know.
Gary Anderson
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From r.alkins001 at comcast.net  Tue Feb 11 15:13:46 2020
From: r.alkins001 at comcast.net (Randy Alkins)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 17:13:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000001d5e113$f078bb50$d16a31f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d5e113$f078bb50$d16a31f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <731535765.77963.1581459227672@connect.xfinity.com>

Spring keeps piston and cup level in and out of motion.


> On February 11, 2020 at 2:46 PM simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> 
> 
>     I am trying to get my head around the workings of the clutch slave cylinder in my MkII BT7.
> 
>     Plainly the fluid comes in the back, underneath and pushes the rod outwards ie towards the rear of the car.
> 
>        1. So, what is the purpose of the spring behind the piston/rubber?
>        2. Is that (silly little) spring supposed to do anything? It certainly doesn?t seem want to push the piston anywhere??
>        3. With the slave cylinder on the bench, I can push the piston in with my thumb. Bit stiff, but I suppose that?s to be expected. How easy should it be and should it spring back?
>        4. I?ve used a rebuild kit from one of our better suppliers??are these kits problematical? I recall that, for example, the servo rebuild kits were/are notorious.
> 
>     I rebuilt it, reinstalled it and the whole issue was solid as a rock. No movement of the rod at all?..
> 
>     I?m going wrong somewhere. Surprise, surprise! But it seemed like a straightforward task and, barring some access issues, the spanner work is simple enough.
> 
>     Any clues?
> 
>     Simon
> 
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.75
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Feb 11 16:58:52 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 12:58:52 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch slave cylinder
In-Reply-To: <000001d5e113$f078bb50$d16a31f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d5e113$f078bb50$d16a31f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLsU+3RAB2hS=poPDwghvRENSVXRznEbBcvVzedsso9OA@mail.gmail.com>

The secret to that was revealed to me in an old Humber manual
The spring is installed to facilitate initial bleeding. The idea is that it
holds the release bearing lightly against the clutch thrust face so that
when the system is filled with fluid and the bleed screw closed there is no
"free play" to take up and the clutch releases upon the first press of the
pedal.

M

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020, 8:46 AM , <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> I am trying to get my head around the workings of the clutch slave
> cylinder in my MkII BT7.
>
> Plainly the fluid comes in the back, underneath and pushes the rod
> outwards ie towards the rear of the car.
>
>    1. So, what is the purpose of the spring behind the piston/rubber?
>    2. Is that (silly little) spring supposed to do anything? It certainly
>    doesn?t seem want to push the piston anywhere??
>    3. With the slave cylinder on the bench, I can push the piston in with
>    my thumb. Bit stiff, but I suppose that?s to be expected. How easy should
>    it be and should it spring back?
>    4. I?ve used a rebuild kit from one of our better suppliers??are these
>    kits problematical? I recall that, for example, the servo rebuild kits
>    were/are notorious.
>
> I rebuilt it, reinstalled it and the whole issue was solid as a rock. No
> movement of the rod at all?..
>
> I?m going wrong somewhere. Surprise, surprise! But it seemed like a
> straightforward task and, barring some access issues, the spanner work is
> simple enough.
>
> Any clues?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Tue Feb 11 23:29:07 2020
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 00:29:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy head for BN2
Message-ID: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>

     I'm ready to order an aluminum head from Dennis Welch for my BN2.  I'm
trying 

to decide between the "standard"  or the "fast road" model;  the latter will

cost about U$775 more.  I wonder if I would appreciate the difference - I
drive

about 2000 miles/year, no racing.  

     Also I would order their "competition head gasket"and stud set.  Do I
need anything else?

Any advice appreciated.  Thanks -Chappy Rice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 11 23:46:51 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2020 22:46:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy head for BN2
In-Reply-To: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88UrHT2Ai_Xv6ktFsv131ok9LO9XL4cXOXuKtvvOSYEQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Buy a hotter cam and their standard head imho

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020, 10:30 PM Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
wrote:

>      I?m ready to order an aluminum head from Dennis Welch for my BN2.
> I?m trying
>
> to decide between the ?standard?  or the ?fast road? model;  the latter
> will
>
> cost about U$775 more.  I wonder if I would appreciate the difference ? I
> drive
>
> about 2000 miles/year, no racing.
>
>      Also I would order their ?competition head gasket?and stud set.  Do I
> need anything else?
>
> Any advice appreciated.  Thanks ?Chappy Rice
>
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb 12 01:08:52 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 21:08:52 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy head for BN2
In-Reply-To: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLp7TXdCy9-eD9qV0R7Ci4PcFJ5XaBCC73m0NTy4_--XA@mail.gmail.com>

IMHO the glory of the 100 for normal road use is the bottom end torque.
I have no idea how the aluminium heads perform relative to the cast iron in
this regard but, unless you have competition in mind, I would recommend
staying as stock as possible.
You will find that the engine sounds somewhat different with the alloy head
but you have to be around 100's a lot to know the difference.

M

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 7:29 PM Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
wrote:

>      I?m ready to order an aluminum head from Dennis Welch for my BN2.
> I?m trying
>
> to decide between the ?standard?  or the ?fast road? model;  the latter
> will
>
> cost about U$775 more.  I wonder if I would appreciate the difference ? I
> drive
>
> about 2000 miles/year, no racing.
>
>      Also I would order their ?competition head gasket?and stud set.  Do I
> need anything else?
>
> Any advice appreciated.  Thanks ?Chappy Rice
>
>
>
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 12 06:40:51 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 13:40:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Alloy head for BN2
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLp7TXdCy9-eD9qV0R7Ci4PcFJ5XaBCC73m0NTy4_--XA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <016a01d5e16d$ba7bad50$2f7307f0$@glasgow-ky.com>,
 <CAB3i7LLp7TXdCy9-eD9qV0R7Ci4PcFJ5XaBCC73m0NTy4_--XA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB146249A0B65072CB4781C4A6D11B0@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Totally agree with Michael on this one. I have see a lot of people trying to reinvent the wheel so to speak. If you want to drive your BN2 and experience what it was like when it was new, nothing is better than staying as stock as possible. Maintenance of these cars is key, not necessarily modifying them to make them like a modern car.

Jean
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: February 12, 2020 2:09 AM
To: Charles Rice<mailto:crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alloy head for BN2

IMHO the glory of the 100 for normal road use is the bottom end torque.
I have no idea how the aluminium heads perform relative to the cast iron in this regard but, unless you have competition in mind, I would recommend staying as stock as possible.
You will find that the engine sounds somewhat different with the alloy head but you have to be around 100's a lot to know the difference.

M

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 7:29 PM Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com<mailto:crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>> wrote:
     I?m ready to order an aluminum head from Dennis Welch for my BN2.  I?m trying
to decide between the ?standard?  or the ?fast road? model;  the latter will
cost about U$775 more.  I wonder if I would appreciate the difference ? I drive
about 2000 miles/year, no racing.
     Also I would order their ?competition head gasket?and stud set.  Do I need anything else?
Any advice appreciated.  Thanks ?Chappy Rice



















































_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C3a0c7383ba6e4fb0b4b608d7af92dbe9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637170917594050430&sdata=kGZ8AaIvuEPTo9h6Nd%2BqFlyo9Mle5BvYPAe6%2BoGZR6Y%3D&reserved=0>
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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb 12 14:10:18 2020
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 21:10:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Re Denis Welch 100 head
References: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568@mail.yahoo.com>

I fitted a standard Denis Welch head with their head gasket last year. I used the original studs and didn't change anything else. I'm very pleased with the result. All the torque is still there and it really feels like it's supposed to. I've had my BN2 for 16 years and try to keep it as standard as possible. I only changed the head because of a very nasty crack between cylinders 2 and 3 and the list advice was to get a new head.
Mike BrooksScotland?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Feb 12 15:35:02 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 14:35:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale
In-Reply-To: <584764656.1159541.1581454161487@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1978898351.1118594.1581450094398@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZeP2vtYR3JBum2fi-5rsrXntdcxk4-FHgxn4eNktHgXyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <584764656.1159541.1581454161487@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <066801d5e1f4$ac1736d0$0445a470$@roadrunner.com>

I wonder that would fetch at auction?

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 12:49 PM
To: healeyrik at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale

 

Thanks for that info, Rik. There is a question as to whether that was the same Healey that Donald showed in New York and Miami, and photographed on the Stanford campus, but I'm also still wondering if it is actually for sale at some auction this spring.

Any other information would be appreciated. I did hear from Jean Caron that the Pebble Beach Concours is trying to assemble as many of the Best-in-Show cars and at last report couldn't find this one.

Gary

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
To: Gary Anderson <editorgary at aol.com <mailto:editorgary at aol.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2020 12:44 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pebble Beach Class Winner for sale

Gary, 

 

It was a Best of Show winner.  Here's a pic:  https://pebblebeachconcours.net/gallery/best-of-show/

 

On Tue, Feb 11, 2020 at 2:42 PM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I just got a phone call this morning from a friend who had heard from some local folks in the Pebble Beach Sportscar Club that "a 1954 Healey 100 that had been a class winner at Pebble Beach would be coming up for sale at auction soon" but he didn't know anything more than that.

 

SInce my friend doesn't know much Healey history, he wouldn't know that there was one and only one Austin-Healey 100 that ever appeared on the field at the Pebble Beach Concours (there was a much-modified Healey-based car a year or two ago in a special racing class, but that doesn't count here). That would have been the original demo Healey that Donald Healey drove crosscountry in 1953, and that Healey was shown at Pebble Beach with a best-in-class or best-in-show award to its credit (I've forgotten which, and my book is moot on the point, but does note that the car is still in existence and owned by a private party).

 

So, does anyone know anything more about the potential sale of the demo car, or some car that sounds similar?

 

Let us know.


Gary Anderson

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb 12 15:44:17 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2020 11:44:17 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Re Denis Welch 100 head
In-Reply-To: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14387909.3732452.1581541818568@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+WjU6qZv6Mb6LUztxvJsNLcv7wSGz_E+sNTvuQ5JsqNw@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,
Any comment on the sound of rhe engine with the alloy head?

M

On Thu, Feb 13, 2020, 10:12 AM mike brooks via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I fitted a standard Denis Welch head with their head gasket last year. I
> used the original studs and didn't change anything else. I'm very pleased
> with the result. All the torque is still there and it really feels like
> it's supposed to. I've had my BN2 for 16 years and try to keep it as
> standard as possible. I only changed the head because of a very nasty crack
> between cylinders 2 and 3 and the list advice was to get a new head.
>
> Mike Brooks
> Scotland
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Feb 12 16:24:42 2020
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2020 23:24:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Re Denis Welch 100 head
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+WjU6qZv6Mb6LUztxvJsNLcv7wSGz_E+sNTvuQ5JsqNw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14387909.3732452.1581541818568@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7L+WjU6qZv6Mb6LUztxvJsNLcv7wSGz_E+sNTvuQ5JsqNw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <355651978.3817932.1581549882191@mail.yahoo.com>

Michael - I'm afraid I can't really tell. The old exhaust had had a "temporary"(!!!) repair done at Affordable Mufflers when we lived in Houston. That was 14 years ago and it had started leaking about the time the head cracked. So we now have a brand new stainless exhaust from AH Spares. It's much quieter and slightly tinnier, but I guess this is mostly to do with the ss exhaust. What have you noticed with the aluminium head?
Mike?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, 12 Feb 2020 at 22:40, Michael Salter<michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:   Mike,?Any comment on the sound of rhe engine with the alloy head?
M
On Thu, Feb 13, 2020, 10:12 AM mike brooks via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I fitted a standard Denis Welch head with their head gasket last year. I used the original studs and didn't change anything else. I'm very pleased with the result. All the torque is still there and it really feels like it's supposed to. I've had my BN2 for 16 years and try to keep it as standard as possible. I only changed the head because of a very nasty crack between cylinders 2 and 3 and the list advice was to get a new head.
Mike BrooksScotland?

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Feb 12 18:30:13 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2020 09:30:13 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Re Denis Welch 100 head
In-Reply-To: <355651978.3817932.1581549882191@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14387909.3732452.1581541818568.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14387909.3732452.1581541818568@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7L+WjU6qZv6Mb6LUztxvJsNLcv7wSGz_E+sNTvuQ5JsqNw@mail.gmail.com>
 <355651978.3817932.1581549882191@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ0sVqgs0w+o4Q0fuukg=ypTY2fKn3zuWZYyqq938m77A@mail.gmail.com>

The tinny sound will mellow out with age as the muffler fills up with
carbon....

On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 7:25 AM mike brooks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Michael - I'm afraid I can't really tell. The old exhaust had had a
> "temporary"(!!!) repair done at Affordable Mufflers when we lived in
> Houston. That was 14 years ago and it had started leaking about the time
> the head cracked. So we now have a brand new stainless exhaust from AH
> Spares. It's much quieter and slightly tinnier, but I guess this is mostly
> to do with the ss exhaust. What have you noticed with the aluminium head?
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Wed, 12 Feb 2020 at 22:40, Michael Salter
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> Mike,
> Any comment on the sound of rhe engine with the alloy head?
>
> M
>
> On Thu, Feb 13, 2020, 10:12 AM mike brooks via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I fitted a standard Denis Welch head with their head gasket last year. I
> used the original studs and didn't change anything else. I'm very pleased
> with the result. All the torque is still there and it really feels like
> it's supposed to. I've had my BN2 for 16 years and try to keep it as
> standard as possible. I only changed the head because of a very nasty crack
> between cylinders 2 and 3 and the list advice was to get a new head.
>
> Mike Brooks
> Scotland
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Thu Feb 13 17:31:16 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2020 19:31:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Choke issues continue
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5O9X7_PPH_Cww1+e=jt15TV-U=N=U5xGkezMfFQ6U9OA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Last week when I pulled on the choke knob of my BJ8, the whole thing came
out of the dash.  The choke cable itself as well as the sheath came away
from the block on the engine side of the firewall and out of the dash.  So,
I decided that replacing all three choke cables may solve my current
problem of an extremely hard to pull choke knob.

The issue I discovered is that the choke cables from the firewall block to
the carbs are not anchored at either end.  When I removed the block from
the firewall, I found that both ends of the two choke cables to the carbs
themselves are loose in the sockets of the actual carb choke fitting as
well as on the firewall bracket.  It seems to me that for the chokes to
work properly, both ends of the two choke cables should be crimped into the
carb itself as well as to the block on the firewall.  This would allow the
cables to lift the chokes off their stops as well as allow them to return
to their off positions smoothly.  This amy also resolve the difficult to
pull choke knob.  The cable sheathing is much smaller than the socket it
fits into at both ends and so there is plenty of slop at the ends right now.

The choke knob is securely anchored to knob on the dash and that tells me
the other end, at the firewall block, should also be secured to the block.

Am I correct in my belief that all the cable ends need to be crimped
securly for the chokes to work properly and freely?

As I resolve all my choke issues, I will relate what I did from the dash to
the carbs.

Thanks,

Fred
66BJ8
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From editorgary at aol.com  Thu Feb 13 19:50:42 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 02:50:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?gary
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From editorgary at aol.com  Thu Feb 13 22:39:57 2020
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 05:39:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
References: <580778323.2052743.1581658797088.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <580778323.2052743.1581658797088@mail.yahoo.com>

 Marked at $70, Amazon is selling Healey The Man and the Machines by Nikas for $44.95
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: editorgary at aol.com <editorgary at aol.com>
Sent: Thu, Feb 13, 2020 7:04 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

#yiv1814003785 #yiv1814003785 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv1814003785 #yiv1814003785 p.yiv1814003785MsoNormal, #yiv1814003785 li.yiv1814003785MsoNormal, #yiv1814003785 div.yiv1814003785MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv1814003785 a:link, #yiv1814003785 span.yiv1814003785MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv1814003785 .yiv1814003785MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {} #yiv1814003785 div.yiv1814003785WordSection1 {} #yiv1814003785 GaryI thought that book was about$16 or so.? Maybe this is a second book? Either way I have not read it. Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 9:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book? ?Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?gary ?
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Feb 13 22:45:07 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 16:45:07 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
In-Reply-To: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Gary

 

I have read and reviewed the book. 

 

The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today.

 

If you wish I can send you the review next week.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Fri Feb 14 09:42:59 2020
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 16:42:59 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
In-Reply-To: <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>

Hi Patrick

Could a copy be attached to your mail (PDF?) for the list to enjoy?

Many thanks 

AlanB



 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 14 February 2020 05:45
To: editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hello Gary

 

I have read and reviewed the book. 

 

The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today.

 

If you wish I can send you the review next week.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From happolk at cox.net  Fri Feb 14 09:46:07 2020
From: happolk at cox.net (Hap Polk)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 08:46:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  New Nikas Healey Book?
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <01dc01d5e356$431e9cf0$c95bd6d0$@cox.net>

 

 

From: Hap Polk <happolk at cox.net> 
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 8:21 PM
To: 'editorgary at aol.com' <editorgary at aol.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Yes,

I purchased it. It is authoritative and very well written.

Highly recommended.

John Nikas should be commended.

Hap Polk

100M

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 6:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Fri Feb 14 11:18:54 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 10:18:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
In-Reply-To: <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
 <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d5e363$3994d3e0$acbe7ba0$@cox.net>

I just finished reading it.   Highly recommended.   

 

A lot of these ?transportation? books can be incredibly dull, this one is not.  

 

John has a unique gift for taking dry subject matter and making it entertaining.

 

 

Jonas

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bluehealey
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2020 8:43 AM
To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn' <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hi Patrick

Could a copy be attached to your mail (PDF?) for the list to enjoy?

Many thanks 

AlanB



 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 14 February 2020 05:45
To: editorgary at aol.com <mailto:editorgary at aol.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hello Gary

 

I have read and reviewed the book. 

 

The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today.

 

If you wish I can send you the review next week.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Feb 14 13:31:53 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 07:31:53 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
In-Reply-To: <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
 <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006001d5e375$cc05d230$64117690$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Prior to the Nikas book I had 46 books concerning Healeys and Austin-Healeys on my shelves.

 

Despite the many historical errors in the book I am pleased to have it as number 47.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

From: Bluehealey [mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, 15 February 2020 3:43 AM
To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hi Patrick

Could a copy be attached to your mail (PDF?) for the list to enjoy?

Many thanks 

AlanB



 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 14 February 2020 05:45
To: editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hello Gary

 

I have read and reviewed the book. 

 

The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today.

 

If you wish I can send you the review next week.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Fri Feb 14 14:45:16 2020
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2020 21:45:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
In-Reply-To: <006001d5e375$cc05d230$64117690$@tpg.com.au>
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
 <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com>
 <006001d5e375$cc05d230$64117690$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <2058445483.3242256.1581716717182@mail.yahoo.com>

i only have 44 but I have Robson's Works Healey book scheduled to arrive tomorrow............?


-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
To: 'Bluehealey' <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Feb 14, 2020 3:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

#yiv1282456639 #yiv1282456639 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv1282456639 #yiv1282456639 p.yiv1282456639MsoNormal, #yiv1282456639 li.yiv1282456639MsoNormal, #yiv1282456639 div.yiv1282456639MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;} #yiv1282456639 a:link, #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv1282456639 a:visited, #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv1282456639 p.yiv1282456639MsoAcetate, #yiv1282456639 li.yiv1282456639MsoAcetate, #yiv1282456639 div.yiv1282456639MsoAcetate {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;} #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639BalloonTextChar {} #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639EmailStyle19 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;} #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639EmailStyle20 {color:#1F497D;} #yiv1282456639 span.yiv1282456639EmailStyle21 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;} #yiv1282456639 .yiv1282456639MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {} #yiv1282456639 div.yiv1282456639WordSection1 {} #yiv1282456639 Hello ?Prior to the Nikas book I had 46 books concerning Healeys and Austin-Healeys on my shelves. ?Despite the many historical errors in the book I am pleased to have it as number 47. ?Hoo Roo ?Patrick Quinn ?From: Bluehealey [mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, 15 February 2020 3:43 AM
To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book? ?Hi PatrickCould a copy be attached to your mail (PDF?) for the list to enjoy?Many thanks AlanB ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 14 February 2020 05:45
To: editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book? ?Hello Gary ?I have read and reviewed the book.  ?The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today. ?If you wish I can send you the review next week. ?Best wishes ?Patrick ? ? ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book? ?Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?gary_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sat Feb 15 08:27:46 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 10:27:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
Message-ID: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>

I am changing out a Carter Fuel pump and going back to the Facet Cube pump.
Is the 4psi  pump the one to use for my 2 su carb BJ8?  I guess it is the
one showed in the moss catalog although they do not mention the psi range.
Healey manual indicates 3.8 Psi and 15 gallons an hour which is about the
same as the Facet Cube.  As it is solid state now is it quieter than the one
I had 30 years ago?

 

Bob Begani

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Feb 15 09:33:35 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 08:33:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>
References: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89PK6iHbQdAyREg33N8fO33XVDnjV2mfQLt89dLegwNPg@mail.gmail.com>

That's the one to use

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Feb 15, 2020, 7:28 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am changing out a Carter Fuel pump and going back to the Facet Cube
> pump.  Is the 4psi  pump the one to use for my 2 su carb BJ8?  I guess it
> is the one showed in the moss catalog although they do not mention the psi
> range.  Healey manual indicates 3.8 Psi and 15 gallons an hour which is
> about the same as the Facet Cube.  As it is solid state now is it quieter
> than the one I had 30 years ago?
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Feb 15 11:19:07 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 10:19:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89PK6iHbQdAyREg33N8fO33XVDnjV2mfQLt89dLegwNPg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>
 <CABXhz89PK6iHbQdAyREg33N8fO33XVDnjV2mfQLt89dLegwNPg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C96898EA669A4534BC29FEBBB26AB8AE@AllInOne>

Bob,
 
Check the inlet and outlet ports match the ID of your fuel line. The minimum
flow should be 15 GPM. I believe the latest recommended electronic SU model
is AZX 1308 for comparison.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2020 8:34 AM
To: Robert Begani
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump


That's the one to use


Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Feb 15, 2020, 7:28 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:


I am changing out a Carter Fuel pump and going back to the Facet Cube pump.
Is the 4psi  pump the one to use for my 2 su carb BJ8?  I guess it is the
one showed in the moss catalog although they do not mention the psi range.
Healey manual indicates 3.8 Psi and 15 gallons an hour which is about the
same as the Facet Cube.  As it is solid state now is it quieter than the one
I had 30 years ago?

 

Bob Begani

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From kags at shaw.ca  Sat Feb 15 11:19:58 2020
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 10:19:58 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Choke issues continue
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5O9X7_PPH_Cww1+e=jt15TV-U=N=U5xGkezMfFQ6U9OA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V5O9X7_PPH_Cww1+e=jt15TV-U=N=U5xGkezMfFQ6U9OA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AE1FD204C85C477F887F6F4BAB1C49EB@KagsLaptop>

Hi Fred ? I?ll give this a try.

The Healey BJ8 choke system is a pain at the best of times ? not very well designed.  Works well enough when carefully set up though.

The secondary cables shouldn?t be crimped in any way ? the outer sheaths are held in their respective sockets by tension when properly set up.  Crimping might create more ?drag? in the system, which is exactly what you don?t want. This is accomplished by lifting the carb choke lever a bit when tightening the cables at the carb end.  This also enables the levers to move a bit further in order to achieve full choke when needed.  There is a sweet spot ? too much is not good either ? the choke linkage will not return to the full off position.  It makes a big difference here if the carb choke levers are perfectly synchronized ? the engine runs much better when the choke system is in use.

I have found the use of additional helper return springs useful here ? we know that the factory / dealers used them on problem cars back in the day.  I have tried ballpoint pen springs on the cables (carb end), as well as a couple of other types of spring.  Wound up using a pair of old original  throttle return springs hooked around the choke lever cable pins and the brake pipes below ? has worked well for me for 30 plus years.  The important thing here is to get just enough spring force to pull the levers to their full return position., but not enough force to have a very stiff, hard to pull choke knob, which will eventually screw up the system.

The primary cable uses the same principle ? when properly set up, the tension in the system will keep the outer sheath in it?s socket on the inside-the-car face of the firewall bracket. This is set at the cable clamp screw in the splitter bar ? no (or very slight) slack in the cable with the choke knob fully in at the dash.

I use a bit of white lithium grease to lube the cables.  Try not to think of the proper maintenance procedure every once in a while ? take the whole damn thing apart and clean and lube the cables.  I found a little cable lubing end for an aerosol can that works reasonably well. I just ignore the cleaning part!

I try and set the system up so that roughly the first 1/2 inch of knob movement activates only the fast idle function ? no enrichment ? really handy when you?re stuck in traffic on a blistering hot day, and the engine wants to die.  Really helps to be able to speed the idle up a bit until you are moving again.  Also very useful when at very high altitude on a trip (I?m at sea level).  Just deal in a bit of fast idle with the choke knob, instead of jumping out with a screw driver and messing up those perfect mixture settings, which took weeks to achieve! 

Another little trick I?ve used:  If you have the primary cable out of the car, find a ?tall? hut ( I think that they are about 5/8 inch or so) to replace the thin one that is so hard to get to at the back of the dash.  Makes tightening the primary cable / knob assembly much easier. (sorry, can?t remember the thread size offhand).

Hope this helps.  I?m a bit hobbled for a couple of days, but could try and get you a couple of photos if you think it would help.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

From: Fred Wescoe 
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 4:31 PM
To: healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Choke issues continue

Listers, 

Last week when I pulled on the choke knob of my BJ8, the whole thing came out of the dash.  The choke cable itself as well as the sheath came away from the block on the engine side of the firewall and out of the dash.  So, I decided that replacing all three choke cables may solve my current problem of an extremely hard to pull choke knob.

The issue I discovered is that the choke cables from the firewall block to the carbs are not anchored at either end.  When I removed the block from the firewall, I found that both ends of the two choke cables to the carbs themselves are loose in the sockets of the actual carb choke fitting as well as on the firewall bracket.  It seems to me that for the chokes to work properly, both ends of the two choke cables should be crimped into the carb itself as well as to the block on the firewall.  This would allow the cables to lift the chokes off their stops as well as allow them to return to their off positions smoothly.  This amy also resolve the difficult to pull choke knob.  The cable sheathing is much smaller than the socket it fits into at both ends and so there is plenty of slop at the ends right now.

The choke knob is securely anchored to knob on the dash and that tells me the other end, at the firewall block, should also be secured to the block.

Am I correct in my belief that all the cable ends need to be crimped securly for the chokes to work properly and freely?

As I resolve all my choke issues, I will relate what I did from the dash to the carbs.

Thanks,

Fred
66BJ8 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Feb 15 11:53:13 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 19:53:13 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <C96898EA669A4534BC29FEBBB26AB8AE@AllInOne>
References: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>
 <CABXhz89PK6iHbQdAyREg33N8fO33XVDnjV2mfQLt89dLegwNPg@mail.gmail.com>
 <C96898EA669A4534BC29FEBBB26AB8AE@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <08b205d7-a4e7-9b5d-3bde-857316ac719a@chello.nl>


AZX1308 is the BUNSEN replacement of the old SU AUF301 etc. which was 
fitted originally. It is available as dual polarity points version 
AZX1308 or an electronic one which is polarity sensitive AZX1308 EP/EN.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 5-2-2020 om 19:19 schreef Harold Manifold:
> Bob,
> Check the inlet and outlet?ports match the ID of your fuel line. The 
> minimum flow should be 15 GPM. I believe the latest recommended 
> electronic SU model is AZX 1308 for comparison.
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *i erbs
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 15, 2020 8:34 AM
> *To:* Robert Begani
> *Cc:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
>
> That's the one to use
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
> 1967 MGB
>
> On Sat, Feb 15, 2020, 7:28 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com 
> <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I am changing out a Carter Fuel pump and going back to the Facet
>     Cube pump.? Is the 4psi? pump the one to use for my 2 su carb
>     BJ8?? I guess it is the one showed in the moss catalog although
>     they do not mention the psi range.? Healey manual indicates 3.8
>     Psi and 15 gallons an hour which is about the same as the Facet
>     Cube.? As it is solid state now is it quieter than the one I had
>     30 years ago?
>
>     Bob Begani
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Feb 15 16:13:26 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 00:13:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <08b205d7-a4e7-9b5d-3bde-857316ac719a@chello.nl>
References: <08db01d5e414$7a49bf70$6edd3e50$@gmail.com>
 <CABXhz89PK6iHbQdAyREg33N8fO33XVDnjV2mfQLt89dLegwNPg@mail.gmail.com>
 <C96898EA669A4534BC29FEBBB26AB8AE@AllInOne>
 <08b205d7-a4e7-9b5d-3bde-857316ac719a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <0f0ed19c-50be-1593-d57a-abcc5bdff188@chello.nl>

Not BUNSEN but BURLEN.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 15-2-2020 om 19:53 schreef Kees Oudesluijs:
>
>
> AZX1308 is the BUNSEN replacement of the old SU AUF301 etc. which was 
> fitted originally. It is available as dual polarity points version 
> AZX1308 or an electronic one which is polarity sensitive AZX1308 EP/EN.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 5-2-2020 om 19:19 schreef Harold Manifold:
>> Bob,
>> Check the inlet and outlet?ports match the ID of your fuel line. The 
>> minimum flow should be 15 GPM. I believe the latest recommended 
>> electronic SU model is AZX 1308 for comparison.
>> Harold
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>> *i erbs
>> *Sent:* Saturday, February 15, 2020 8:34 AM
>> *To:* Robert Begani
>> *Cc:* Ahealey help
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet 4 Psi fuel Pump
>>
>> That's the one to use
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
>> 1967 MGB
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 15, 2020, 7:28 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     I am changing out a Carter Fuel pump and going back to the Facet
>>     Cube pump.? Is the 4psi? pump the one to use for my 2 su carb
>>     BJ8?? I guess it is the one showed in the moss catalog although
>>     they do not mention the psi range.? Healey manual indicates 3.8
>>     Psi and 15 gallons an hour which is about the same as the Facet
>>     Cube.? As it is solid state now is it quieter than the one I had
>>     30 years ago?
>>
>>     Bob Begani
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Feb 16 00:31:19 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs)
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2020 23:31:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Message-ID: <CACPMnYorMYMYoxbwd9CXMZDGuNHT=Cd7Mm4Rvx+cxu7uFM-iGA@mail.gmail.com>

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and errors generated by my phone
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Feb 16 08:20:07 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 15:20:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.?Gary Hodson?


-----Original Message-----
From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and errors generated by my phone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 16 08:50:57 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 15:50:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Gary,
My sentiments exactly.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%2Fproductdetails.asp%3FRecID%3D7550&data=02%7C01%7C%7C967b7538596146d0847908d7b2f3c1d5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637174632306057296&sdata=%2FM3O4rJWW4%2F3g0PfC1PHN6JUHMa%2BlyslRuvvAotcNVQ%3D&reserved=0>

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and errors generated by my phone
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C967b7538596146d0847908d7b2f3c1d5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637174632306067308&sdata=DPS8MywKaBnsT1LCttsciz8ebQD4H7E90pbDJzWzjR8%3D&reserved=0>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 16 10:19:20 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 09:19:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>

Mine too!

On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> My sentiments exactly.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; 
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi 
> | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted 
> decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel 
> lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting 
> brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, 
> etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace 
> it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about 
> being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even 
> better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can 
> switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Sun Feb 16 10:25:09 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 12:25:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
References: <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$@verizon.net>

I put up three listings on my site this morning after a hiatus of 6 weeks.
You can find them by looking at the listings on the "update history" page.
Of interest (to me anyway) is why a zerk is called a zerk. More updates will
follow in the next few days.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Feb 16 10:46:11 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 18:46:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9bd0d328-caf4-8efa-2670-0ab369a68021@chello.nl>

An electric SU fuel pump will last indefinitely as it can always be 
repaired/maintained. All you have to do is use the car regularly. If the 
car (pump) has sat for a long while, it sometimes refuses to work as the 
points may have become corroded. A piece of fine 400 grade sand paper 
slid between the points will often solve this. Even new pumps straight 
from the box carried this warning in the past as they may refuse duty 
initially. I did 160.000 miles on the original SU pump in my car without 
ever even looking after it. Even after I laid up the car it always 
started without any problems at my yearly start up. Only after I had 
left it for many years without starting up it refused to spring into 
action. I only needed to clean and polish the points which had corroded? 
but still had lots of life in them. The same pump is now used on my 
present car.

Of course you can get the solid state electronic version from Burlen but 
I do sometimes hear of durability problems and I have experienced 
several times that they need adjustment after a while. If they go wrong 
it is usually not possible to get them working at the side of the road, 
opposite to standard points pumps where you usually only need that bit 
of sandpaper again. The electronic version is also polarity sensitive 
which the points pump is usually not, unless it is fitted with a diode 
instead of a capacitor. Pounding the pump with a hammer may also work 
for a while but it is not a repair. It is an indication that the points 
need cleaning/replacing asap.

If, after many years/miles the points may have worn beyond salvation it 
is an easy job to replace them.

I have overhauled/repaired near to a hundred of these pumps and it is 
usually a question of polishing or replacing the points, cleaning the 
diaphragm, applying a thin smear of talcum powder between the kevlar and 
two rubber membranes and fitting a new gasket under the diaphragm (easy 
to cut yourself). Paramount is setting up the pump's points and 
diaphragm properly. Just follow the instructions from SU. Easy to find 
on the Internet e.g.:

/http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-electrical-fuel-pumps-reassembly/

I always replace the capacitor or diode by a transil. This will prevent 
sparking of the points nearly completely and makes the pump dual 
polarity if a diode was fitted. A transil is like a two-way Zener diode, 
it will limit the max. voltage to a specific low Voltage (I use 18V 
transils) which greatly reduces sparking.

If the valves are still airtight leave them alone or if you must change 
the rubber seals only. Do not disturb the two domes if they do not leak.

Only in the rare event that the pump is dirty internally take it apart 
in all its separate bits clean and fit new gaskets, O-rings, air chamber 
membrane and seals. Hold on the the old 3-layer diaphragm if the kevlar 
layer is still OK as it is of much better quality that the new Burlen ones.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-2-2020 om 16:20 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted 
> decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel 
> lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting 
> brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, 
> etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace 
> it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about 
> being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even 
> better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can 
> switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | 
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and errors generated by my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From drtommitch at gmail.com  Sun Feb 16 10:52:06 2020
From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 12:52:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAOqP0SL5=HduJcqDNV7KCx5mrVzqn3rgnxc__5L+OAFVuXfrHA@mail.gmail.com>

One thing to keep in mind when traveling with another Healey,  which pump
is most likely to carry as a spare?

Remember some of us prefer backroads.

I run two pumps in parallel with a selector switch that also acts as a fuel
pump cut off switch.

Dr. Tom Mitchell



On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Mine too!
>
> On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> My sentiments exactly.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Feb 16 10:57:22 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 09:57:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
In-Reply-To: <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$@verizon.net>
References: <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88p8Kwz5WMThnLdSLPoTntDM3EJwpkU3=o6i6kWEO4k_g@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you John for continuing to support your amazing web site.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sun, Feb 16, 2020, 9:52 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> *I put up three listings on my site this morning after a hiatus of 6
> weeks. You can find them by looking at the listings on the ?update history?
> page. Of interest (to me anyway) is why a zerk is called a zerk. More
> updates will follow in the next few days.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Feb 16 11:00:51 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 19:00:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CAOqP0SL5=HduJcqDNV7KCx5mrVzqn3rgnxc__5L+OAFVuXfrHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
 <CAOqP0SL5=HduJcqDNV7KCx5mrVzqn3rgnxc__5L+OAFVuXfrHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e92877ea-464a-edce-d4fe-6b46832fd4d6@chello.nl>

It may be a good choice to run two identical SU pumps in parallel all 
the time, no change over switch. That way the points on both pumps will 
remain clean and it is very unlikely that both pumps will fail at the 
same time. The alternative is not to forget to change from one pump to 
the other regularly to keep the points operational..

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-2-2020 om 18:52 schreef Tom Mitchell:
> One thing to keep in mind when traveling with another Healey,? which 
> pump is most likely to carry as a spare?
>
> Remember?some of us prefer backroads.
>
> I run two pumps in parallel with a selector switch that also acts as a 
> fuel pump cut off switch.
>
> Dr. Tom Mitchell
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 12:45 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Mine too!
>
>     On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>>
>>     Gary,
>>
>>     My sentiments exactly.
>>
>>     Jean
>>
>>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>>     for Windows 10
>>
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>>     warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
>>     *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>>     <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
>>     healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5
>>     psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>>     Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted
>>     decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel
>>     lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting
>>     brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates
>>     continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more
>>     original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel
>>     pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of
>>     the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel
>>     & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>>     Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Feb 16 11:19:48 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 18:19:48 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002801d5e4f5$ad53ac00$07fb0400$@alexarevel.plus.com>

The double ended SU is one solution. I have one. I try to alternate between
each side every time I use the car. Each half is independently wired and
fused. Works well enough. Only time it gave me a fright was when I was in
France and had to park it on the street overnight. I turned off both halves
and got about 300 yards in the morning before we stopped.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 16 February 2020 17:19
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

 

Mine too!

On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:

Gary,

My sentiments exactly.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

  _____  

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
<healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys
<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>
<mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>   <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies 

 

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional
sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much
easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU
fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the
road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a
selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.  

Gary Hodson 



 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Feb 16 11:36:15 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 07:36:15 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>

 "Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades"
Because the replacement ones are nice and shiny and gold coloured ... they
must be better ??
M

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:20 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus
> Auto Racing Supplies
>
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and errors generated by my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sun Feb 16 12:09:55 2020
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 20:09:55 +0100 (CET)
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1581880195347.1357808.c8b9300fcfdfa7c75a187b0b5e1f57381734c004@spica.telekom.de>

Mike,
I never understand it. I have the original pumps in all my Austin-Healeys 
and only restored them together with the car. They never let me stranded. 
In case I have an identical one (also restored) in the boot. It helped 
several who broke down with their Facett, Mitsuba, Hardi, etc. pumps.
 
Josef Eckert
K?nigswinter/Germany
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | 
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Datum: 2020-02-16T20:03:40+0100
Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
An: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>
 
 
 
"Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades"
Because the replacement ones are nice and shiny and gold coloured ... they 
must be better ??
M

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:20 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
  Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
  with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
  additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
  additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it
  would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new
  highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded
  at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in
  parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two
  pumps. 
  Gary Hodson 


  -----Original Message-----
  From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >
  To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
  >
  Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
  Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus
  Auto Racing Supplies

  https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
  <https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550>

  Ira Erbs
  Portland, OR
  typos and errors generated by my phone
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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  <http://autox.team.net/archive>

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  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>

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  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com>

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  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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?
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 16 12:30:06 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:30:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1581880195347.1357808.c8b9300fcfdfa7c75a187b0b5e1f57381734c004@spica.telekom.de>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1581880195347.1357808.c8b9300fcfdfa7c75a187b0b5e1f57381734c004@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <aadf35ad-8114-5537-b5fc-8fedb7cc304e@comcast.net>

I must be the outlier; I've had many SU pumps fail on the road over the 
years (maybe, because until recently I was putting 5-7K miles/year on my 
BJ8?).? I've bought new points-based, rebuilt several--for a few years 
the replacement points were pure crap--bought new SU electronic and 
built SU electronic from kits and had the late Dave DuBois rebuild 
several (now in pieces on the bench).? Still, I stick with them hoping 
for one of the legendary points type that supposedly last a million miles.

I always thought/assumed the film on the diaphragm face was mylar (not 
kevlar).

Bob

On 2/16/2020 11:09 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I never understand it. I have the original pumps in all my 
> Austin-Healeys and only restored them together with the car. They 
> never let me stranded. In case I have an identical one (also restored) 
> in the boot. It helped several who broke down with their Facett, 
> Mitsuba, Hardi, etc. pumps.
>
> Josef Eckert
>
> K?nigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | 
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> Datum: 2020-02-16T20:03:40+0100
>
> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>
> An: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>
>
> "Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted 
> decades"
> Because the replacement ones are nice and shiny and gold coloured ... 
> they must be better ??
> M
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:20 AM warthodson--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted
>     decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel
>     lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting
>     brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates
>     continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original
>     to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If
>     you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road,
>     carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a
>     selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>     Gary Hodson
>

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Feb 16 13:10:12 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 20:10:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <002801d5e4f5$ad53ac00$07fb0400$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>,
 <002801d5e4f5$ad53ac00$07fb0400$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462374AF69204DB08799646D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

As a matter of fact I have a brand new double ended SU for sale , contact me off list if interested, I have to agree Simon it is a very good solution as long as you switch them regularly so both sides gets used.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Sent: February 16, 2020 1:26 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell'<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

The double ended SU is one solution. I have one. I try to alternate between each side every time I use the car. Each half is independently wired and fused. Works well enough. Only time it gave me a fright was when I was in France and had to park it on the street overnight. I turned off both halves and got about 300 yards in the morning before we stopped.
Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 16 February 2020 17:19
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Mine too!
On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
Gary,
My sentiments exactly.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf91a923d7377414db04b08d7b3156f56%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637174780071706207&sdata=K0Wyy8Wsb3B29YfV1NhiIF2UC0CvAa8oiv3fWMEOMJo%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com<mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com><mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
Gary Hodson


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Feb 16 15:24:50 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 14:24:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462374AF69204DB08799646D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
 <002801d5e4f5$ad53ac00$07fb0400$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462374AF69204DB08799646D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <e716007a-baef-fbc6-ee5a-694bcbdca7c7@comcast.net>

I was/am somewhat interested in a Putzke Bilstein conversion, but I 
noticed the fuel pump for a BJ8 has to be relocated by bending the 
bracket at a sharper angle.? Probably not possible with a double-ender.



On 2/16/2020 12:10 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> As a matter of fact I have a brand new double ended SU for sale , 
> contact me off list if interested, I have to agree Simon it is a very 
> good solution as long as you switch them regularly so both sides gets 
> used.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Sent: *February 16, 2020 1:26 PM
> *To: *'Bob Spidell' <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>; 
> healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi 
> | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> The double ended SU is one solution. I have one. I try to alternate 
> between each side every time I use the car. Each half is independently 
> wired and fused. Works well enough. Only time it gave me a fright was 
> when I was in France and had to park it on the street overnight. I 
> turned off both halves and got about 300 yards in the morning before 
> we stopped.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* 16 February 2020 17:19
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi 
> | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> Mine too!
>
> On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
>     Gary,
>
>     My sentiments exactly.
>
>     Jean
>
>     Sent from Mail
>     <https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf91a923d7377414db04b08d7b3156f56%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637174780071706207&sdata=K0Wyy8Wsb3B29YfV1NhiIF2UC0CvAa8oiv3fWMEOMJo%3D&reserved=0>
>     for Windows 10
>
>     *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson---
>     via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
>     *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>     <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
>     healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5
>     psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>     Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted
>     decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel
>     lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting
>     brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates
>     continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original
>     to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If
>     you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road,
>     carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a
>     selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>
>     Gary Hodson
>
>

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Feb 16 15:38:34 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 23:38:34 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <aadf35ad-8114-5537-b5fc-8fedb7cc304e@comcast.net>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1581880195347.1357808.c8b9300fcfdfa7c75a187b0b5e1f57381734c004@spica.telekom.de>
 <aadf35ad-8114-5537-b5fc-8fedb7cc304e@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <64db59c2-7293-1956-fe6b-03a085d19076@chello.nl>

Mylar, You could well be right. I was always told? it was kevlar but 
when I think of it this may be wrong. If I look up mylar, it certainly 
has the right properties.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 16-2-2020 om 20:30 schreef Bob Spidell:
> I must be the outlier; I've had many SU pumps fail on the road over 
> the years (maybe, because until recently I was putting 5-7K miles/year 
> on my BJ8?).? I've bought new points-based, rebuilt several--for a few 
> years the replacement points were pure crap--bought new SU electronic 
> and built SU electronic from kits and had the late Dave DuBois rebuild 
> several (now in pieces on the bench).? Still, I stick with them hoping 
> for one of the legendary points type that supposedly last a million miles.
>
> I always thought/assumed the film on the diaphragm face was mylar (not 
> kevlar).
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/16/2020 11:09 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> I never understand it. I have the original pumps in all my 
>> Austin-Healeys and only restored them together with the car. They 
>> never let me stranded. In case I have an identical one (also 
>> restored) in the boot. It helped several who broke down with their 
>> Facett, Mitsuba, Hardi, etc. pumps.
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>>
>> K?nigswinter/Germany
>>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>
>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | 
>> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>>
>> Datum: 2020-02-16T20:03:40+0100
>>
>> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>
>> An: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>
>>
>> "Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted 
>> decades"
>> Because the replacement ones are nice and shiny and gold coloured ... 
>> they must be better ??
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:20 AM warthodson--- via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted
>>     decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel
>>     lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting
>>     brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates
>>     continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more
>>     original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel
>>     pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of
>>     the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel
>>     & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>>     Gary Hodson
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sun Feb 16 15:52:56 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2020 14:52:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Web Site
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88p8Kwz5WMThnLdSLPoTntDM3EJwpkU3=o6i6kWEO4k_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$.ref@verizon.net>
 <000001d5e4ee$0a0903d0$1e1b0b70$@verizon.net>
 <CABXhz88p8Kwz5WMThnLdSLPoTntDM3EJwpkU3=o6i6kWEO4k_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Y3ENJH4H_vKKDr6Y_e1d_9b+vm1pFHd4awJte27H0sPA@mail.gmail.com>

thank you, John for providing such a useful service to the Healey
community.
-Roland

On Sun, Feb 16, 2020, 10:02 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you John for continuing to support your amazing web site.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
> 1967 MGB
>
> On Sun, Feb 16, 2020, 9:52 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> *I put up three listings on my site this morning after a hiatus of 6
>> weeks. You can find them by looking at the listings on the ?update history?
>> page. Of interest (to me anyway) is why a zerk is called a zerk. More
>> updates will follow in the next few days.*
>>
>>
>>
>> *John Sims*
>>
>> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>
>> *Matawan, NJ*
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 06:46:43 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 08:46:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <64db59c2-7293-1956-fe6b-03a085d19076@chello.nl>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKbN4fJx8EX3=oW86QQk2dS5D3HPuhiFYQctP7WTb3AtA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1581880195347.1357808.c8b9300fcfdfa7c75a187b0b5e1f57381734c004@spica.telekom.de>
 <aadf35ad-8114-5537-b5fc-8fedb7cc304e@comcast.net>
 <64db59c2-7293-1956-fe6b-03a085d19076@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B55R25+cNFgKJ9ygM+G0Vu1+9cDTACm_DC7o_KwH2yn9A@mail.gmail.com>

Many good points (yuk yuk) are made in this string and much of the answer
probably lies with different personal experiences, philosophy re
originality, tolerance for potential roadside repair, etc. etc.

Several years back I installed a double-headed SU Dave Dubois rebuilt and
converted to solid-state mounted, with a bit of customization, where the
original SU did, which previously had been backed up by a FACET cube
spliced into the fuel line inside the wheel arch.  Both setups were/are
wired with an on-off-on switch mounted discreetly behind the driver's seat.

Plus's for this set up:  Instant redundancy for the motor with fewer
plumbing fittings and wires, plus what I feel is a certain elegance for
having an upgraded SU part tucked away out of plain site.  The biggest
negative is that the pump section is shared, and if it fails it fails to
both motors.

Personally I do not like cube pumps of any brand and on my
Weber-carb'd race cars, both of which have Weber DCOE 45's, I use a Carter
4070 plumbed through a Holly fuel pressure regulator.  Fuel pump failure
during racing is, to me, unacceptable and the Carters have been foolproof
in race conditions since installation over ten years ago.  However for a
street Healey I am willing to run the risk of a roadside repair such as
that pictured by Bob Spidell, and do carry a FACET cube which I can install
into the fuel circuit given some rubber tubing, clamps, etc.

Different strokes....

Best--Michael Oritt












On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 5:39 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> Mylar, You could well be right. I was always told  it was kevlar but when
> I think of it this may be wrong. If I look up mylar, it certainly has the
> right properties.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 16-2-2020 om 20:30 schreef Bob Spidell:
>
> I must be the outlier; I've had many SU pumps fail on the road over the
> years (maybe, because until recently I was putting 5-7K miles/year on my
> BJ8?).  I've bought new points-based, rebuilt several--for a few years the
> replacement points were pure crap--bought new SU electronic and built SU
> electronic from kits and had the late Dave DuBois rebuild several (now in
> pieces on the bench).  Still, I stick with them hoping for one of the
> legendary points type that supposedly last a million miles.
>
> I always thought/assumed the film on the diaphragm face was mylar (not
> kevlar).
>
> Bob
>
> On 2/16/2020 11:09 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I never understand it. I have the original pumps in all my Austin-Healeys
> and only restored them together with the car. They never let me stranded.
> In case I have an identical one (also restored) in the boot. It helped
> several who broke down with their Facett, Mitsuba, Hardi, etc. pumps.
>
>
>
> Josef Eckert
>
> K?nigswinter/Germany
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> Datum: 2020-02-16T20:03:40+0100
>
> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>
> An: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com> <warthodson at aol.com>
> <warthodson at aol.com>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades"
> Because the replacement ones are nice and shiny and gold coloured ... they
> must be better ??
> M
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:20 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
>> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
>> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
>> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
>> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
>> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
>> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
>> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 17 08:18:30 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 07:18:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 'Sighting'
Message-ID: <bce1bca1-9099-2298-9f53-f6da8ec2a3d4@comcast.net>

Clicked on this bait just for yucks and lo and behold:

https://www.sfgate.com/sf-travel/article/best-attractions-highway-california-sights-15054247.php

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 10:00:45 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 12:00:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 'Sighting'
In-Reply-To: <bce1bca1-9099-2298-9f53-f6da8ec2a3d4@comcast.net>
References: <bce1bca1-9099-2298-9f53-f6da8ec2a3d4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeyDLFd9gMJujDN3P=iz+MZLKapm49YE7=OPSOowqTNRA@mail.gmail.com>

Drove from Monterey to Hearst Castle in August, stopped at Nepenthe for
lunch.  Beautiful drive, even in the rent-a-Fusion.  A Healey would have
been lots better.

Rick Neville

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:19 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Clicked on this bait just for yucks and lo and behold:
>
>
> https://www.sfgate.com/sf-travel/article/best-attractions-highway-california-sights-15054247.php
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 17 10:06:33 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 09:06:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 'Sighting'
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeyDLFd9gMJujDN3P=iz+MZLKapm49YE7=OPSOowqTNRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bce1bca1-9099-2298-9f53-f6da8ec2a3d4@comcast.net>
 <CAGfzsZeyDLFd9gMJujDN3P=iz+MZLKapm49YE7=OPSOowqTNRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a05b9d86-c186-d86c-6a0b-ec11df35b131@comcast.net>

I hadn't clicked-through the slideshow when I posted, when I did I saw 
'The Coalinga Stink' slide; pretty funny as my dad, my sister and I were 
born in Coalinga (my mom immigrated from Oklahoma as an infant).? Most 
of the family has moved on--though I have an uncle with a State Farm 
franchise and sizable real estate investments there--but we still 
consider it the 'Family Home.'

On 2/17/2020 9:00 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Drove from Monterey to Hearst Castle in August, stopped at Nepenthe 
> for lunch.? Beautiful drive, even in the rent-a-Fusion.? A Healey 
> would have been lots better.
>
> Rick Neville
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:19 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Clicked on this bait just for yucks and lo and behold:
>
>     https://www.sfgate.com/sf-travel/article/best-attractions-highway-california-sights-15054247.php
>
>

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 17 15:30:11 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 14:30:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 'Sighting'
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeyDLFd9gMJujDN3P=iz+MZLKapm49YE7=OPSOowqTNRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <bce1bca1-9099-2298-9f53-f6da8ec2a3d4@comcast.net>
 <CAGfzsZeyDLFd9gMJujDN3P=iz+MZLKapm49YE7=OPSOowqTNRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a3c0f904-0787-40dc-9dd3-a2bbd8ad5ed4@comcast.net>

We drove from San Luis Obispo to Laguna Seca in a TD, a TC, and a Singer 
for the races and the Concours.? Was foggy the entire way.? What fun.

Mike

On 2/17/2020 9:00 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Drove from Monterey to Hearst Castle in August, stopped at Nepenthe 
> for lunch.? Beautiful drive, even in the rent-a-Fusion.? A Healey 
> would have been lots better.
>
> Rick Neville
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:19 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Clicked on this bait just for yucks and lo and behold:
>
>     https://www.sfgate.com/sf-travel/article/best-attractions-highway-california-sights-15054247.php
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Feb 17 15:33:25 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 22:33:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Plaque
References: <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384@mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone looking for one of these.? I never attended and I don't remember where I got it.? I will send it free to the first person that wants it.Mike MacLean
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 15:58:00 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 11:58:00 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 1 Hooters
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>

I have a concours question for those folks with knowledge of the BJ8 Phase
1.
We are trying to determine which horns were used on these cars.
The original Service Parts List indicates that during production of the BJ7
the horns changed from BHA4444 & BHA4445 to BHA4515 and BHA4514.
The at HBJ825315 which is the beginning of BJ8 production the horns changed
again to 13H2109 and 13H2110.

We don't quite understand what these changes actually were and how to
identify the different versions of these Lucas horns.  Can anyone help?

To add to the confusion my first Healey was a late Phase 1 HBJ8L 26036 and
although it was very rusty when I got it it was relatively low mileage and
very original.
It had horns with sticky out terminals like this.[image: image.png]
Can anyone with a very original early BJ8 let me know if it has this style
of horn terminals.
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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Mon Feb 17 16:50:41 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 15:50:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 1 Hooters
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901d5e5ed$11e9ea10$35bdbe30$@cox.net>

My car is BJ8L25675 has the flat tabs

 

BJ8L25676 was on BAT a few months ago and also had flat tabs.

 

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 2:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 1 Hooters

 

I have a concours question for those folks with knowledge of the BJ8 Phase 1.

We are trying to determine which horns were used on these cars.

The original Service Parts List indicates that during production of the BJ7 the horns changed from BHA4444 & BHA4445 to BHA4515 and BHA4514.

The at HBJ825315 which is the beginning of BJ8 production the horns changed again to 13H2109 and 13H2110.

 

We don't quite understand what these changes actually were and how to identify the different versions of these Lucas horns.  Can anyone help?

 

To add to the confusion my first Healey was a late Phase 1 HBJ8L 26036 and although it was very rusty when I got it it was relatively low mileage and very original. 

It had horns with sticky out terminals like this.

Can anyone with a very original early BJ8 let me know if it has this style of horn terminals.

 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Feb 17 16:54:33 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 18:54:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Plaque
In-Reply-To: <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <022301d5e5ed$9a76bb60$cf643220$@rr.com>

I know the nearside profile on that badge is supposed to indicate Geoff?s mustache.  But it makes him look like Homer Simpson.

Attractive badge, anyway.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 5:33 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Plaque

 

Anyone looking for one of these.  I never attended and I don't remember where I got it.  I will send it free to the first person that wants it.

Mike MacLean

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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Mon Feb 17 18:37:34 2020
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 20:37:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 1 Hooters
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <44f0c110-f33b-6d64-e37f-fbab250559ca@htcnet.org>

Michael,? I have a early phase I, 25856 bought new.? Right now only has 
one horn with side spade connectors.

John



On 2/17/2020 5:58 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I have a concours question for those folks with knowledge of the BJ8 
> Phase 1.
> We are trying to determine which horns were used on these cars.
> The original Service Parts List indicates that during production of 
> the BJ7 the horns changed from BHA4444 & BHA4445 to BHA4515 and BHA4514.
> The at HBJ825315 which is the beginning of BJ8 production the horns 
> changed again to 13H2109 and 13H2110.
>
> We don't quite understand what these changes actually were and how to 
> identify the different versions of these Lucas horns.? Can anyone help?
>
> To add to the confusion my first Healey was a late Phase 1 HBJ8L 26036 
> and although it was very rusty when I got it it was relatively low 
> mileage and very original.
> It had horns with sticky out terminals like this.image.png
> Can anyone with a very original early BJ8 let me know if it has this 
> style of horn terminals.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 18:54:52 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 09:54:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>

I think in an urban context like in San Francisco, when I was driving
across the Bay Bridge all the time, I couldn't afford to have the pump crap
out on me.  I had one friend it happened to, and his BJ8  was totalled when
he came to a stop on the upper deck with a faulty SU pump (he didn't know
he should carry a mallot in the car to whack the back panel with!).

I replaced my SU, which was very temperamental, with a facet bendix style
pump which was more reliable, cheap and quiet.  As I got older, the
electronic SUs became available and I switched back.   I think the main
thing was the contacts were really fiddly, and if driving all the time...
at some point would fail.

Best,

Alan

On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 11:20 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 17 19:09:03 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 18:09:03 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Phase 1 Hooters
In-Reply-To: <44f0c110-f33b-6d64-e37f-fbab250559ca@htcnet.org>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5KF7k4ysC4mEFkVOdju4_vm_LntvtV6JD5A4g6Nse6w@mail.gmail.com>
 <44f0c110-f33b-6d64-e37f-fbab250559ca@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <a1e8fea5-b981-2987-6b8b-d30fca0d9d4f@comcast.net>

My BJ8--67HBJ8L38652--built in November, 1966 has the 'vertical' type 
spade connectors (at least, it has a couple that haven't snapped off).? 
I've had it for 35 years and it had about 64K miles on it when I bought 
it and I don't think the horns were touched (until I took them apart for 
some reason I don't remember).


On 2/17/2020 5:37 PM, John Vrugtman wrote:
> Michael,? I have a early phase I, 25856 bought new.? Right now only 
> has one horn with side spade connectors.
>
> John
>
>
>
> On 2/17/2020 5:58 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> I have a concours question for those folks with knowledge of the BJ8 
>> Phase 1.
>> We are trying to determine which horns were used on these cars.
>> The original Service Parts List indicates that during production of 
>> the BJ7 the horns changed from BHA4444 & BHA4445 to BHA4515 and BHA4514.
>> The at HBJ825315 which is the beginning of BJ8 production the horns 
>> changed again to 13H2109 and 13H2110.
>>
>> We don't quite understand what these changes actually were and how to 
>> identify the different versions of these Lucas horns.? Can anyone help?
>>
>> To add to the confusion my first Healey was a late Phase 1 HBJ8L 
>> 26036 and although it was very rusty when I got it it was relatively 
>> low mileage and very original.
>> It had horns with sticky out terminals like this.image.png
>> Can anyone with a very original early BJ8 let me know if it has this 
>> style of horn terminals.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 17 19:30:04 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 02:30:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
Message-ID: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would assume 90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Feb 17 19:33:25 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 21:33:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Hooters
References: <B0B837D6-B433-49AF-BA15-E3C668CC2B4F@aol.com>
Message-ID: <B3418AA8-D539-41B1-8F40-EAEAD5AD6826@aol.com>

For the benefit of others on the list that may be interested....

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Date: February 17, 2020 at 6:54:10 PM EST
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Subject: Hooters
> 
> ?Since the car was dismantled many years ago the provenance may be suspect. I try to keep track but......
> Should be early. Single terminal horn is 69 145A dated 5-64. Double terminal is 69122E dated 10-63. 
> Perry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 19:44:17 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 15:44:17 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJMg8WeLkXyAk_OwrvrW4JmDXWECNJnvwDQom3xnCjSsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Pretty sure that the inner faces of the front "A" arm mounts are, as you
suggest, vertical.
I always check them visually when evaluating a Healey or searching for an
alignment issue.
As to the horizontal inclination of the pivot bolts I believe it is 2.5
degrees but cannot find my original frame drawing which shows it.
Probably someone else on the list has the drawing.

M

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 3:32 PM S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would
> assume 90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
> drive."
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Feb 17 20:00:13 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 03:00:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Plaque
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB466470CE732FD297D00D71E2A4160@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1428748179.4267960.1581978805384@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR08MB466470CE732FD297D00D71E2A4160@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <649604302.4399129.1581994813049@mail.yahoo.com>

Richard, you were first to respond.? Snail mail address?MikeP.S. thanks for playing to other respondents.

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:36 PM, Richard Kahn<tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:   I?d like it as I live in Tahoe.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 17, 2020, at 2:34 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



?Anyone looking for one of these.? I never attended and I don't remember where I got it.? I will send it free to the first person that wants it.Mike MacLean
<thumbnail.jpg>_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com


  
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Feb 17 20:13:41 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 19:13:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0A0B39364E004938A209116F199AB541@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
Based on the way the chassis alignment drawings are dimensioned the A arm is
90 Degrees. The attached drawings should be good though BJ7.
 
Regards,
 
Harold
 
 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T
Miller
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 6:30 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs


Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would assume
90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Feb 17 20:20:12 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 19:20:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E4EE4B6F476E4413ABBB0DF884EEEEFD@AllInOne>

I may have answered too quickly. I found another chassis layout in my
archives. It appears the A arm mounts are 90 degrees to the frame rail but
it looks like the the front mount is slightly higher than the rear. We may
need other opinions.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T
Miller
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 6:30 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs


Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would assume
90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test
drive."

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon Feb 17 21:25:16 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 23:25:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>

Alan:

 

My sentiments exactly. While my BJ8 was not a daily driver, my concern was reliability so I was advised to change to the Facet Cube and was completely satisfied. It lasted many years, until it failed and a mechanic convinced me to change to an another pump which was readily available in all NAPPA stores so I could obtain it anywhere. Now I want to return to the Facet Cube. If I want to convince my wife to ride with me, I do not want to have to claw under the car with a mallet to keep it running.

 

For everyone?s information, I was active in a monthly group meeting of automotive parts exporter beginning in the 80?s and one of the members was the export manager for Facet.  He told me that he had introduced the cube to BMC and had an order to begin delivering it to them for the Austin-Healey when the announcement came that production would cease.

 

I kept the original pump for years, unfortunately, when it became lost in a move.  Maybe I will consider an electronic SU version, if the members of this group can convince me it is reliable. 

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani

BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 8:55 PM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>; I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

 

I think in an urban context like in San Francisco, when I was driving across the Bay Bridge all the time, I couldn't afford to have the pump crap out on me.  I had one friend it happened to, and his BJ8  was totalled when he came to a stop on the upper deck with a faulty SU pump (he didn't know he should carry a mallot in the car to whack the back panel with!).

 

I replaced my SU, which was very temperamental, with a facet bendix style pump which was more reliable, cheap and quiet.  As I got older, the electronic SUs became available and I switched back.   I think the main thing was the contacts were really fiddly, and if driving all the time... at some point would fail.

 

Best,

 

Alan

 

On Sun, Feb 16, 2020 at 11:20 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.  

Gary Hodson 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Feb 17 21:28:00 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 20:28:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <E4EE4B6F476E4413ABBB0DF884EEEEFD@AllInOne>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <E4EE4B6F476E4413ABBB0DF884EEEEFD@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <50378a68-6516-31c5-a7b5-eeee7c5b4d24@comcast.net>

I have no data--and, probably, no credibility--but I recall reading 
somewhere the rear mount is located a smidge outboard of the front 
mount.? This, I believe, cants the trunnion end--the point of the 
'A'--towards the front of the car a bit and creates the little bit of 
caster angle our cars have.



On 2/17/2020 7:20 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> I may have answered too quickly. I found another chassis layout in my 
> archives. It appears the A arm mounts are 90 degrees to the frame rail 
> but it looks like the the front mount is slightly higher than the 
> rear. We may need other opinions.
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *S and T Miller
> *Sent:* Monday, February 17, 2020 6:30 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
>
> Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would 
> assume 90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a 
> test drive."

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From varley at cosmos.net.au  Mon Feb 17 21:32:49 2020
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 15:32:49 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001201d5e614$7a4f2800$6eed7800$@cosmos.net.au>

Are you aware that the holes on each side of the spring and shock tower are
the alignment holes for the mounts. A rod should pass through the front and
back mount via these holes.

Regards

Larry Varley

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 18 06:06:41 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 13:06:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <001201d5e614$7a4f2800$6eed7800$@cosmos.net.au>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <001201d5e614$7a4f2800$6eed7800$@cosmos.net.au>
Message-ID: <MN2PR04MB575840437E4BAB66CFB93CC2D4110@MN2PR04MB5758.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Yes, but that's assuming the shock towers are also alligned properly.

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 11:32:49 PM
To: 'S and T Miller' <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs


Are you aware that the holes on each side of the spring and shock tower are the alignment holes for the mounts. A rod should pass through the front and back mount via these holes.

Regards

Larry Varley
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Feb 18 08:20:07 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 15:20:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>

I have been on many Healey group road trips spanning 3+ decades. We have had 4 fuel pump related incidents. 2 involved decades old SU's & 2 involved Facet's. The difference was that the Facets were not very old. Also, the Facet owners were not carrying spares. In the case of the SU's, if the owner did not have a spare, someone in the group did have a spare that fortunately matched the failed one. Maybe there is a reason Facets are so much cheaper.?
My earlier post was intended to point out that if you currently have an SU it is much easier to replace it at home or on the road with another new or rebuilt SU than it is to replace it with a Facet because of all the modifications that are required. I do not believe that a new Facet is any more reliable that a new or properly rebuilt SU. Any Facet owner that heads out on a trip without a spare has the same risk of being stranded. What if the next town with auto parts store is hours way & how are you going to get there??
For the same reasoning, I have a Lucus distributor with a Pertronix ignition. So do many of my road trip traveling companions. The Pertronix have never let us down. But, I do carry a spare Pertronix ignition set. It would be much easier at the side of the road to install the new pertronix that it would be to install & gap & time in a set of points.?
I think of it as insurance. My spare SU is already installed in parallel with the main SU. I rotate them electrically with a switch on trips.
Gary Hodson??



#yiv5155077252 #yiv5155077252 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv5155077252 #yiv5155077252 p.yiv5155077252MsoNormal, #yiv5155077252 li.yiv5155077252MsoNormal, #yiv5155077252 div.yiv5155077252MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv5155077252 a:link, #yiv5155077252 span.yiv5155077252MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5155077252 span.yiv5155077252EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;} #yiv5155077252 .yiv5155077252MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {} #yiv5155077252 div.yiv5155077252WordSection1 {} #yiv5155077252 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Feb 18 08:47:18 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 16:47:18 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
 <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9d17fd3e-a0b4-eee9-4bd2-cb4c89b2d377@chello.nl>

Another good quality and fairly cheap electronic replacement for the SU 
fuel pump is this:


Low pressure SU replacement Fuelflow 12v electronic fuel pump 15LM12


Selling on eBay for about $60.

It is made in New Zealand and also sold under the brand name Moprod and 
Ecco.

It would be an excellent spare and you can use the same fittings as on 
your original SU AUF301 fuel pump.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 18-2-2020 om 16:20 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> I have been on many Healey group road trips spanning 3+ decades. We 
> have had 4 fuel pump related incidents. 2 involved decades old SU's & 
> 2 involved Facet's. The difference was that the Facets were not very 
> old. Also, the Facet owners were not carrying spares. In the case of 
> the SU's, if the owner did not have a spare, someone in the group did 
> have a spare that fortunately matched the failed one. Maybe there is a 
> reason Facets are so much cheaper.
>
> My earlier post was intended to point out that if you currently have 
> an SU it is much easier to replace it at home or on the road with 
> another new or rebuilt SU than it is to replace it with a Facet 
> because of all the modifications that are required. I do not believe 
> that a new Facet is any more reliable that a new or properly rebuilt 
> SU. Any Facet owner that heads out on a trip without a spare has the 
> same risk of being stranded. What if the next town with auto parts 
> store is hours way & how are you going to get there?
>
> For the same reasoning, I have a Lucus distributor with a Pertronix 
> ignition. So do many of my road trip traveling companions. The 
> Pertronix have never let us down. But, I do carry a spare Pertronix 
> ignition set. It would be much easier at the side of the road to 
> install the new pertronix that it would be to install & gap & time in 
> a set of points.
>
> I think of it as insurance. My spare SU is already installed in 
> parallel with the main SU. I rotate them electrically with a switch on 
> trips.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 09:39:20 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 18:39:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <e716007a-baef-fbc6-ee5a-694bcbdca7c7@comcast.net>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462152FF7BF80F3A2F339F6D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <f322d830-a542-f65d-8fc6-2d4db2f4c608@comcast.net>
 <002801d5e4f5$ad53ac00$07fb0400$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462374AF69204DB08799646D1170@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <e716007a-baef-fbc6-ee5a-694bcbdca7c7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwFDRmAt6d8A9KknDZesvaQ34zL7C9nmdWyTWiBUs+oAcw@mail.gmail.com>

Bob, I have the tube shock conversion. I needed to fabricate new bracket(s)
to accommodate two SU pumps. Double ended pump likely to require the same.

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020, 12:25 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I was/am somewhat interested in a Putzke Bilstein conversion, but I
> noticed the fuel pump for a BJ8 has to be relocated by bending the bracket
> at a sharper angle.  Probably not possible with a double-ender.
>
>
>
> On 2/16/2020 12:10 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> As a matter of fact I have a brand new double ended SU for sale , contact
> me off list if interested, I have to agree Simon it is a very good solution
> as long as you switch them regularly so both sides gets used.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Sent: *February 16, 2020 1:26 PM
> *To: *'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>
>
> The double ended SU is one solution. I have one. I try to alternate
> between each side every time I use the car. Each half is independently
> wired and fused. Works well enough. Only time it gave me a fright was when
> I was in France and had to park it on the street overnight. I turned off
> both halves and got about 300 yards in the morning before we stopped.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* 16 February 2020 17:19
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>
>
> Mine too!
>
> On 2/16/2020 7:50 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> My sentiments exactly.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail
> <https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf91a923d7377414db04b08d7b3156f56%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637174780071706207&sdata=K0Wyy8Wsb3B29YfV1NhiIF2UC0CvAa8oiv3fWMEOMJo%3D&reserved=0>
> for Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 9:20:07 AM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>
>
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>
>
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From kags at shaw.ca  Tue Feb 18 11:00:27 2020
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 10:00:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <9d17fd3e-a0b4-eee9-4bd2-cb4c89b2d377@chello.nl>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
 <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
 <9d17fd3e-a0b4-eee9-4bd2-cb4c89b2d377@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <668AEBC3228B4CF3A32257B64B6B291B@KagsLaptop>

Further to this ? I have used this pump in both Healeys for at least 20 years (mine are Moprod branded).  They have worked flawlessly ? lots of miles on both cars over the time.  They are readily available (here in Canda) as the Ecco. They are diaphragm pumps as is the SU, and will fit as the original if the line fittings are still present.  Can easily be installed on either NEG or POS grounded cars ? just switch the leads ? pump body is isolated (it?s plastic.)  Which brigs up the only downside:  overtightening the fittings can crack the body, ruining the pump.  These pumps are supplied with 4 white neoprene seals that are way better than the original fibre washers ? just a tiny bit past finger tight is all that is needed..

I have the Putske Billstein shock kit in my BJ8 ? the kit came with a new fuel pump mounting bracket that didn?t work all that well. We simply made a more suitable bracket out of a sheet of aluminum stock.  Over the years I have considered  fashioning a second pump system as many of you have, but haven?t done it yet.  I have the jump seats in the BJ8 loosely mounted, so I can easily get to the pump / filter without jacking the car and getting the wheel off.  I also carry an identical pump in the boot at all times as a spare.  I guess my thinking has been that if I am absolutely ready for a fuel pump failure, it probably won?t happen.  (I try not to think of tunnels and bridges). So far, so good!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

From: Kees Oudesluijs 
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 7:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Another good quality and fairly cheap electronic replacement for the SU fuel pump is this:



Low pressure SU replacement Fuelflow 12v electronic fuel pump 15LM12



Selling on eBay for about $60.

It is made in New Zealand and also sold under the brand name Moprod and Ecco.

It would be an excellent spare and you can use the same fittings as on your original SU AUF301 fuel pump.



Kees Oudesluijs
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Feb 18 12:03:00 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:03:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR04MB575840437E4BAB66CFB93CC2D4110@MN2PR04MB5758.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <001201d5e614$7a4f2800$6eed7800$@cosmos.net.au>
 <MN2PR04MB575840437E4BAB66CFB93CC2D4110@MN2PR04MB5758.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <382174275.4713592.1582052580363@mail.yahoo.com>

 I forget where I got this, I think from British Car Specialists.? My BN2 needed a new a-arm bracket welded to the frame, so I needed this information.? The caster of the front wheel is 2 degrees to the rear as shown in the drawing.? The brackets on the car were indeed angled back for this.? I had it welded that way because the other brackets were angled also.? Maybe a 100 is different, I don't know, bit I thought the suspension was basically the same.
Mike MacLean

    On Tuesday, February 18, 2020, 5:06:48 AM PST, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Yes, but that's assuming the shock towers are also alligned properly.? 

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
From: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 11:32:49 PM
To: 'S and T Miller' <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs?#yiv1050170616 #yiv1050170616 _filtered {}#yiv1050170616 p.yiv1050170616x_MsoNormal, #yiv1050170616 li.yiv1050170616x_MsoNormal, #yiv1050170616 div.yiv1050170616x_MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv1050170616 a:link, #yiv1050170616 span.yiv1050170616x_MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1050170616 a:visited, #yiv1050170616 span.yiv1050170616x_MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1050170616 span.yiv1050170616x_EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv1050170616 .yiv1050170616x_MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv1050170616 div.yiv1050170616x_WordSection1 {}#yiv1050170616 
Are you aware that the holes on each side of the spring and shock tower are the alignment holes for the mounts. A rod should pass through the front and back mount via these holes.

Regards

Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rjdisi at aol.com  Tue Feb 18 12:45:24 2020
From: rjdisi at aol.com (Raymond Donovan)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 14:45:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop
References: <F880E652-A67D-4231-A6E3-5E50A0AC14FA.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F880E652-A67D-4231-A6E3-5E50A0AC14FA@aol.com>

I?m looking for a hardtop for either my 1954 -100 BN-1 or my 1966 BJ-8.
I?d appreciate contacting me off line with photographs.
Please let me know; condition, price and location
Thank you,
Ray

From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 14:28:14 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 16:28:14 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too
 much and rub on late 67 BJ8
Message-ID: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>

Listeners:

I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles I
did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.  

Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap with
the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the right
side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the second
picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend who
is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?

Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the radius
arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing on
the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it a
smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?

Of course, a little paint afterwards.  

I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep them.


Regards,

Bob Begani



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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 18 14:56:19 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 21:56:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB466456577D81B95F10AFE5B1A4110@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Personally, I'd ditch the tires instead of butchering the car. Probably cheaper in the long run. There are other tires that will give the ride you desire. You can probably re sell the tires.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 1:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

Listeners:

I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles I
did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.

Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap with
the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the right
side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the second
picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend who
is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?

Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the radius
arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing on
the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it a
smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?

Of course, a little paint afterwards.

I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep them.


Regards,

Bob Begani



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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 18 17:50:12 2020
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 00:50:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1162013934.3542026.1582073412892@mail.yahoo.com>

 if you are having to futz with the a arm frame attachment points (I did) be very aware of kingpin inclination angle ..determines castor/camber of wheel ..depending on frame/tweekage and replacement part tolerances, the backside of the mount is nowhere near any reference alignment point...if you gotta have it vertical for "pretty" grind the flange (where it welds to the frame)...AFTER verifying kingpin / axle / wheel caster-camber
Jim
"
    On Tuesday, February 18, 2020, 2:32:56 AM UTC, S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
  Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would assume 90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 18:28:49 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 20:28:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB466456577D81B95F10AFE5B1A4110@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <BYAPR08MB466456577D81B95F10AFE5B1A4110@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdcmKkOjJpmK0ZCdxuCpFbYrP9iYkzy5Dxh7_wLdHb9HQ@mail.gmail.com>

I checked my BJ7 and the distance you measured is 9 1/2" on my car, so your
fenders are probably in the ballpark.  I don't know if I'd want to be
changing my wheel arch profile for tire fit and if you do, it seems 1 inch
would be way too much.  If you start removing metal from the lower dog leg,
how do you expect to blend it into the rest of the wheel arch without it
looking funny?  I'd also check your rear shocks to see if they are allowing
that much deflection on the rear wheel openings.  I might follow Richard's
advice and look for some different tires rather than doing the body mods.

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 5:08 PM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Personally, I'd ditch the tires instead of butchering the car. Probably
> cheaper in the long run. There are other tires that will give the ride you
> desire. You can probably re sell the tires.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert
> Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 18, 2020 1:28 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
> too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
>
> Listeners:
>
> I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
> indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles
> I
> did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
> heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
> had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
> right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
> can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
> off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.
>
> Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
> The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap
> with
> the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the
> right
> side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the
> second
> picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
> an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend
> who
> is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
> rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?
>
> Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the
> radius
> arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing
> on
> the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it
> a
> smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
> cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?
>
> Of course, a little paint afterwards.
>
> I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep
> them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Feb 18 18:47:20 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 01:47:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZdcmKkOjJpmK0ZCdxuCpFbYrP9iYkzy5Dxh7_wLdHb9HQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <BYAPR08MB466456577D81B95F10AFE5B1A4110@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAGfzsZdcmKkOjJpmK0ZCdxuCpFbYrP9iYkzy5Dxh7_wLdHb9HQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343281A8212D1055960E1B04A5100@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I agree. It would be short sighted to perform a permanent modification to correct a temporary problem.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 1:28:49 AM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

I checked my BJ7 and the distance you measured is 9 1/2" on my car, so your fenders are probably in the ballpark.  I don't know if I'd want to be changing my wheel arch profile for tire fit and if you do, it seems 1 inch would be way too much.  If you start removing metal from the lower dog leg, how do you expect to blend it into the rest of the wheel arch without it looking funny?  I'd also check your rear shocks to see if they are allowing that much deflection on the rear wheel openings.  I might follow Richard's advice and look for some different tires rather than doing the body mods.

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 5:08 PM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com<mailto:tahoehealey at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Personally, I'd ditch the tires instead of butchering the car. Probably cheaper in the long run. There are other tires that will give the ride you desire. You can probably re sell the tires.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com<mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 1:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

Listeners:

I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles I
did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.

Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap with
the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the right
side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the second
picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend who
is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?

Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the radius
arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing on
the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it a
smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?

Of course, a little paint afterwards.

I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep them.


Regards,

Bob Begani



_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 18:53:14 2020
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 09:53:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good dent pulling kit?

I have a few dents on the BJ9 Tesla and I don't want to pay Tesla body shop
prices ?.

Cheers,

Alan
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 18 18:59:41 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 01:59:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB4664F49CDC0F3B10FEC8D578A4100@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Try a?paintless dent remover?. One of our Healey owners did my Porsche many years ago and you would never know.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 18, 2020, at 5:53 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a good dent pulling kit?  
> 
> I have a few dents on the BJ9 Tesla and I don't want to pay Tesla body shop prices ?.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> 

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 19:32:31 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 21:32:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB4664F49CDC0F3B10FEC8D578A4100@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BYAPR08MB4664F49CDC0F3B10FEC8D578A4100@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcbR3hYJAvpsduT5agWe7-N-qa-7m+=yoxSu=LbFacW2g@mail.gmail.com>

Agree with Richard.  Those dent pulling kits only work on the
infomercials.  PDR is the way to go.

Happy Healeying
Rick Neville

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 9:00 PM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Try a?paintless dent remover?. One of our Healey owners did my Porsche
> many years ago and you would never know.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 18, 2020, at 5:53 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > Does anyone have a recommendation for a good dent pulling kit?
> >
> > I have a few dents on the BJ9 Tesla and I don't want to pay Tesla body
> shop prices ?.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb 18 20:08:06 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:08:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] A-arm frame mounts specs
In-Reply-To: <1162013934.3542026.1582073412892@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <BYAPR04MB5750F81E6EF385F8A40969D0D4110@BYAPR04MB5750.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <1162013934.3542026.1582073412892@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <e30fcf9b-306f-8484-7641-b2000612f4a3@comcast.net>

I think if one's going so far as to weld in new A-arm mounts it might be 
a good time to install some means for camber/caster adjustment, either 
with something like the Kilmartin shock mounts or Tom's inserts 
(relatively easy since you'll have the front end disassembled, or nearly 
so, anyway).


On 2/18/2020 4:50 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
> if you are having to futz with the a arm frame attachment points (I 
> did) be very aware of kingpin inclination angle ..determines 
> castor/camber of wheel ..depending on frame/tweekage and replacement 
> part tolerances, the backside of the mount is nowhere near any 
> reference alignment point...if you gotta have it vertical for "pretty" 
> grind the flange (where it welds to the frame)...AFTER verifying 
> kingpin / axle / wheel caster-camber
>
> Jim
> "
> On Tuesday, February 18, 2020, 2:32:56 AM UTC, S and T Miller 
> <stmiller96 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know the factory a-arm frame mount specs in degrees? One would 
> assume 90 degrees when using a digital angle finder on the back side, but?
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a 
> test drive."
>

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Feb 18 20:09:06 2020
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:09:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?fuel_pumps?=
Message-ID: <20200219030906.3280.qmail@server278.com>

i bought a solid state SU pos gnd pump a few years back.  once i had ascertained that it functioned correctly, i took it off to 
use as a spare.  it sat in my trunk(boot) for a couple of years until i needed it.  would not pump fuel.  checked it all over and 
could see nothing wrong.  finally sent it to the guy in walnut creek that put a new diaphram in it.  put it back on and all was 
well until i went on a long car club trip and discovered that the fuel pump would give out at 2900 rpm.  drop below that and 
it worked perfect.  made it home and put the old 20-30 year old points type back in and now carry the solid state as a 
spare.  it will get me home but it sure browns me off that it will not work properly.  since i have lots of old SU pumps around 
that i clean up and rebuild i should be able to stay on the road for a while.

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Feb 18 20:12:43 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 22:12:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop
In-Reply-To: <F880E652-A67D-4231-A6E3-5E50A0AC14FA@aol.com>
References: <F880E652-A67D-4231-A6E3-5E50A0AC14FA.ref@aol.com>
 <F880E652-A67D-4231-A6E3-5E50A0AC14FA@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7MpWjqsicKDi6jWNm97DLawyuP-uV9d+qSGJX-AuLcLg@mail.gmail.com>

Contact Nick Freeman at NICAL engineering in the UK.  He makes tops for
both models.  Bring your checkbook....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 2:45 PM Raymond Donovan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m looking for a hardtop for either my 1954 -100 BN-1 or my 1966 BJ-8.
> I?d appreciate contacting me off line with photographs.
> Please let me know; condition, price and location
> Thank you,
> Ray
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb 18 20:19:20 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:19:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <275e6d68-23c4-0d02-5033-4ecea206b51d@comcast.net>

I've tried a few of them--suction-type dent pullers and the ones that 
use hot glue--and not had a lot of luck except on somewhat large but 
shallow dents.? If there's a 'character line' (crease) in the dent it's 
not likely they will do much.? The best kind are the ones that spot-weld 
a puller pin to the metal, but then you're talking filler and paint repairs.

Are Tesla bodies aluminum?? If so, you'll probably not have much luck 
(aluminum stretches more than steel).? If not, any good body shop can 
probably do work cheaper than 'official' Tesla.

Bob


On 2/18/2020 5:53 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a good dent pulling kit?
>
> I have a few dents on the BJ9 Tesla and I don't want to pay Tesla body 
> shop prices??.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>


From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 18 20:55:25 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:55:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFBXTk+oVrfdkfpaZRBtrLiM2OpWOknw+vxJDp=UPWvNJHDEYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d5e6d8$6b0ee3c0$412cab40$@sbcglobal.net>

I used a paint less dent removal service to take some dents out of my daily driver. One of the dents was at the B-pillar. The results was as if the dents were never there. He removed four dents for $250.

 

John

San Jose

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 5:53 PM
To: Healey list <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Glue / dent pulling kit recommendation ?

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good dent pulling kit?  

I have a few dents on the BJ9 Tesla and I don't want to pay Tesla body shop prices ?.

 

Cheers,

 

Alan

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From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 18 21:08:20 2020
From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 04:08:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bring on that 427 Cobra
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42692F2A6988657D97AE4A2EB8100@MN2PR10MB4269.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

[cid:49ecf363-bb6f-4852-92bf-389cd690d295]



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Feb 18 22:27:47 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 21:27:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bring on that 427 Cobra
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42692F2A6988657D97AE4A2EB8100@MN2PR10MB4269.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB42692F2A6988657D97AE4A2EB8100@MN2PR10MB4269.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <dd035aeb-16a8-bf63-3b92-9c2624b7db7d@comcast.net>

Do you suppose they beefed-up the chassis, just a little?





On 2/18/2020 8:08 PM, Leonard Berkowitz wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Feb 18 22:38:52 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 06:38:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c178ad84-0d38-b7ee-1946-859b08ca4c88@chello.nl>

You may check the rubber bushes of the rear supension first. If they are 
soft or worn they may allow to much movement of the rear axle.

The bolt can easily be shortened a bit using a Dremel tool. Fitting a 
plastic nut cover can be fitted to protect the tyre.

Bodywork mods may cost more than a set of new tyres.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 18-2-2020 om 22:28 schreef Robert Begani:
> Listeners:
>
> I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
> indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles I
> did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
> heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
> had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
> right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
> can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
> off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.
>
> Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
> The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap with
> the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the right
> side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the second
> picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
> an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend who
> is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
> rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?
>
> Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the radius
> arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing on
> the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it a
> smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
> cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?
>
> Of course, a little paint afterwards.
>
> I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Feb 18 23:09:46 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 07:09:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pumps
In-Reply-To: <20200219030906.3280.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20200219030906.3280.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <7e9bc0d2-15a2-b07e-cc81-ff14d599f7fa@chello.nl>

I encountered this several times.

The diaphragm itself is probably not the problem. What is usually needed 
is removing the diaphragm, clean it using e.g. brake cleaner, dry 
thoroughly, apply a little smear of talcum powder between the layers of 
the diaphragm if the old type multilayer diaphragm is used and assemble 
and adjust the pump again.

What also can go wrong is the adjustment of the slotted piece of steel 
under the cap. This needs to be turned ever so slightly with a plastic 
tool until the pump runs at its fastest rate. A fiddly job. It is also 
important that the magnet is positioned properly as it may influence the 
throw of the diaphragm

If the pump is not delivering enough fuel the wrong type may have been 
fitted. Often AZX1307EP is fitted which delivers a pressure of 2,7psi. 
The correct? AZX1308EP (equivalent to the original AUF301) delivers 
3,8psi. The only difference in the pumps is the spring under the diaphragm.

In general this does not seem to have much influence though.


If you keep a points pump as a spare in the boot, insert a piece of 
accid free paper (e.g. rice paper) between the point. This will usually 
prevent (electrolitic) corrosion of the points. Do not forget to remove 
the paper when installing the pump. Stick a label to the top to remind you.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 19-2-2020 om 04:09 schreef healeymanjim:
> i bought a solid state SU pos gnd pump a few years back.  once i had ascertained that it functioned correctly, i took it off to
> use as a spare.  it sat in my trunk(boot) for a couple of years until i needed it.  would not pump fuel.  checked it all over and
> could see nothing wrong.  finally sent it to the guy in walnut creek that put a new diaphram in it.  put it back on and all was
> well until i went on a long car club trip and discovered that the fuel pump would give out at 2900 rpm.  drop below that and
> it worked perfect.  made it home and put the old 20-30 year old points type back in and now carry the solid state as a
> spare.  it will get me home but it sure browns me off that it will not work properly.  since i have lots of old SU pumps around
> that i clean up and rebuild i should be able to stay on the road for a while.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Feb 18 10:56:05 2020
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 10:56:05 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
 <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1058015394.3408913.1582048565744.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Of couse they never fail if you have a spare in the trunk !
rg
----- Original Message -----
From: warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: rfbegani at gmail.com, healey nut <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, eyera3000 at gmail.com
Sent: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 08:20:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies


I have been on many Healey group road trips spanning 3+ decades. We have had 4 fuel pump related incidents. 2 involved decades old SU's & 2 involved Facet's. The difference was that the Facets were not very old. Also, the Facet owners were not carrying spares. In the case of the SU's, if the owner did not have a spare, someone in the group did have a spare that fortunately matched the failed one. Maybe there is a reason Facets are so much cheaper. 

My earlier post was intended to point out that if you currently have an SU it is much easier to replace it at home or on the road with another new or rebuilt SU than it is to replace it with a Facet because of all the modifications that are required. I do not believe that a new Facet is any more reliable that a new or properly rebuilt SU. Any Facet owner that heads out on a trip without a spare has the same risk of being stranded. What if the next town with auto parts store is hours way & how are you going to get there? 
For the same reasoning, I have a Lucus distributor with a Pertronix ignition. So do many of my road trip traveling companions. The Pertronix have never let us down. But, I do carry a spare Pertronix ignition set. It would be much easier at the side of the road to install the new pertronix that it would be to install & gap & time in a set of points. 
I think of it as insurance. My spare SU is already installed in parallel with the main SU. I rotate them electrically with a switch on trips.
Gary Hodson  





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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb 19 08:16:22 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 07:16:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1058015394.3408913.1582048565744.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFBXTkKD_y7O--6pVh6KPp0Co7yo3tmePhvXUb0mNZcfc40AGg@mail.gmail.com>
 <042101d5e613$6ce260c0$46a72240$@gmail.com>
 <1279867985.4750978.1582039207688@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1058015394.3408913.1582048565744.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <f0a378db-a5e9-2736-7446-f254fdd71b27@comcast.net>

If only ...



On 2/18/2020 9:56 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Of couse they never fail if you have a spare in the trunk !
> rg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: rfbegani at gmail.com, healey nut <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, eyera3000 at gmail.com
> Sent: Tue, 18 Feb 2020 08:20:07 -0700 (MST)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | 
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>
> I have been on many Healey group road trips spanning 3+ decades. We 
> have had 4 fuel pump related incidents. 2 involved decades old SU's & 
> 2 involved Facet's. The difference was that the Facets were not very 
> old. Also, the Facet owners were not carrying spares. In the case of 
> the SU's, if the owner did not have a spare, someone in the group did 
> have a spare that fortunately matched the failed one. Maybe there is a 
> reason Facets are so much cheaper.
>
> My earlier post was intended to point out that if you currently have 
> an SU it is much easier to replace it at home or on the road with 
> another new or rebuilt SU than it is to replace it with a Facet 
> because of all the modifications that are required. I do not believe 
> that a new Facet is any more reliable that a new or properly rebuilt 
> SU. Any Facet owner that heads out on a trip without a spare has the 
> same risk of being stranded. What if the next town with auto parts 
> store is hours way & how are you going to get there?
>
> For the same reasoning, I have a Lucus distributor with a Pertronix 
> ignition. So do many of my road trip traveling companions. The 
> Pertronix have never let us down. But, I do carry a spare Pertronix 
> ignition set. It would be much easier at the side of the road to 
> install the new pertronix that it would be to install & gap & time in 
> a set of points.
>
> I think of it as insurance. My spare SU is already installed in 
> parallel with the main SU. I rotate them electrically with a switch on 
> trips.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Feb 19 08:31:03 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 10:31:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <037c01d5e739$98e982d0$cabc8870$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles!

 

As part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to Lake Tahoe for Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric backup fuel pump (P/N E8016S, from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under the dash that allows switching to either pump, or turning both off.  I chose to plumb the backup pump into the system in series with the SU because the installation was much simpler than doing it in parallel.  That arrangement works perfectly well.  Either pump can pump through the inactive pump.  All that was required was to cut the hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had already done anyway to install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH rear seat.  To install the backup pump then only required removing the filter, running new rubber fuel hoses to complete the system, and reinstalling the filter.   Quick access to the pumps and the filter is done by using chrome screws from above into anchor nuts on the seat structure, rather than having to remove a wheel to access the seat stud nuts.  I can remove the seat to have full access to both pumps, the filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it also makes checking and topping up the differential oil much easier).  The backup pump is attached to the front wall of the boot behind the rear axle.  It is quiet with only a slight hum, and I can?t hear it with the engine running.

 

My usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg of a trip, then switch to the backup for the return.  Three times since doing the modification, I have had occasion to switch to the backup when the SU stumbled (in the middle of Atlanta traffic) and twice when it failed to start the car.  These ?failures? were only temporary because the SU performed just fine when switched back later.  I have since rebuilt the SU.  After Conclave in Deadwood, I joined the group touring the northern states, and decided to split off from them and make a 160-mile detour alone over into Montana just to check that state off my list.  The weather that day was rainy and chilly.  Just as I got into Montana on an isolated country road, I felt the car suddenly failing to respond to the accelerator.  As soon as I figured out what was happening, I switched to the SU and kept motoring.  I was able to find another identical generic pump at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning and had it installed in about 15 minutes.  I used it to get back to North Carolina.  Easy peasy?. I was so glad not to have to rely on having to install a spare carried in the boot, on the side of the road, in the rain or in the dark.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

 

Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.  

Gary Hodson 



-----Original Message-----
From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and errors generated by my phone

_______________________________________________
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Wed Feb 19 09:06:42 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 16:06:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <037c01d5e739$98e982d0$cabc8870$@rr.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <037c01d5e739$98e982d0$cabc8870$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxdrr5Oh7jt1L7BDDntrSgGai=YRp958TYdU=otQmTNyzA@mail.gmail.com>

Steve

I also encountered a SU electric pump no working when it became rather hot.
Not only due to its own heat but that coming to it from the exhaust pipe on
a very hot day. I have made a test rig on the same basis as the 'official'
version. I left this pump running at the full flow rate for many hours but
just as I was about to finish the test it stopped. It was quite hot running
at full rate for so long. but when it cooled it ran fine.

Eventually I discovered that when hot the throw over stopped working. This
led to the discovery that the diaphragm was too 'tight'. I then found that
later repair instruction called for more part turns before replacing the
base. In fact two extra clamping holes.

I have to assume that the setting was right on the edge and when the
temperature rose the diaphragm became tighter. Since then the pump has been
refitted to my BN1 and works fine.

Best regards

On Wed, 19 Feb 2020 at 15:31, Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
>
>
> As part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to Lake Tahoe for
> Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric backup fuel pump (P/N E8016S,
> from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under the dash that allows switching
> to either pump, or turning both off.  I chose to plumb the backup pump into
> the system in series with the SU because the installation was much simpler
> than doing it in parallel.  That arrangement works perfectly well.  Either
> pump can pump through the inactive pump.  All that was required was to cut
> the hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had already done
> anyway to install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH rear seat.  To
> install the backup pump then only required removing the filter, running new
> rubber fuel hoses to complete the system, and reinstalling the filter.
>  Quick access to the pumps and the filter is done by using chrome screws
> from above into anchor nuts on the seat structure, rather than having to
> remove a wheel to access the seat stud nuts.  I can remove the seat to have
> full access to both pumps, the filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it also
> makes checking and topping up the differential oil much easier).  The
> backup pump is attached to the front wall of the boot behind the rear
> axle.  It is quiet with only a slight hum, and I can?t hear it with the
> engine running.
>
>
>
> My usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg of a trip, then
> switch to the backup for the return.  Three times since doing the
> modification, I have had occasion to switch to the backup when the SU
> stumbled (in the middle of Atlanta traffic) and twice when it failed to
> start the car.  These ?failures? were only temporary because the SU
> performed just fine when switched back later.  I have since rebuilt the
> SU.  After Conclave in Deadwood, I joined the group touring the northern
> states, and decided to split off from them and make a 160-mile detour alone
> over into Montana just to check that state off my list.  The weather that
> day was rainy and chilly.  Just as I got into Montana on an isolated
> country road, I felt the car suddenly failing to respond to the
> accelerator.  As soon as I figured out what was happening, I switched to
> the SU and kept motoring.  I was able to find another identical generic
> pump at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning and had it installed in
> about 15 minutes.  I used it to get back to North Carolina.  Easy peasy?. I
> was so glad not to have to rely on having to install a spare carried in the
> boot, on the side of the road, in the rain or in the dark.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *warthodson---
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 16, 2020 10:20 AM
> *To:* eyera3000 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
>
>
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades
> with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
> additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets (all
> additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously, etc, when it would
> be so much easier & more original to simply replace it with a new highly
> reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about being stranded at the
> side of the road, carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
> wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two pumps.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus
> Auto Racing Supplies
>
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and errors generated by my phone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb 19 09:38:26 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 08:38:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT,
 2-3.5 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxdrr5Oh7jt1L7BDDntrSgGai=YRp958TYdU=otQmTNyzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com>
 <037c01d5e739$98e982d0$cabc8870$@rr.com>
 <CAL1Oyxdrr5Oh7jt1L7BDDntrSgGai=YRp958TYdU=otQmTNyzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <43dcf464-0317-812d-cd00-9fc8521a218b@comcast.net>

I've noticed the thermal issue as well.?? I attribute it to the pump's 
coil--essentially the pump's body and similar to a solenoid--getting 
heat-soaked and its impedance increasing so that not enough current 
flows through it to pull the diaphragm back.

Or, the pump just gets an attitude when it gets hot.


On 2/19/2020 8:06 AM, John Harper wrote:
> Steve
>
> I also encountered a SU electric pump no working when it became rather 
> hot. Not only due to its own heat but that coming to it from the 
> exhaust?pipe on a very hot day. I have made a test rig on the same 
> basis as the 'official' version. I left this pump running at the full 
> flow rate for many hours but just as I was about to finish the test it 
> stopped. It was quite hot running at full rate for so long. but when 
> it cooled it ran fine.
>
> Eventually I discovered that when hot the throw over stopped working. 
> This led to the discovery that the diaphragm?was too 'tight'. I then 
> found that later repair instruction called for more part turns before 
> replacing?the base. In fact two extra clamping holes.
>
> I have to assume?that the setting was right on the edge and when the 
> temperature rose the diaphragm?became tighter. Since then the pump has 
> been refitted?to my BN1 and works fine.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2020 at 15:31, Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com 
> <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
>     As part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to Lake
>     Tahoe for Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric backup fuel
>     pump (P/N E8016S, from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under the
>     dash that allows switching to either pump, or turning both off.? I
>     chose to plumb the backup pump into the system in series with the
>     SU because the installation was much simpler than doing it in
>     parallel.? That arrangement works perfectly well.? Either pump can
>     pump through the inactive pump.? All that was required was to cut
>     the hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had already
>     done anyway to install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH
>     rear seat.? To install the backup pump then only required removing
>     the filter, running new rubber fuel hoses to complete the system,
>     and reinstalling the filter.? ?Quick access to the pumps and the
>     filter is done by using chrome screws from above into anchor nuts
>     on the seat structure, rather than having to remove a wheel to
>     access the seat stud nuts.? I can remove the seat to have full
>     access to both pumps, the filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it
>     also makes checking and topping up the differential oil much
>     easier).? The backup pump is attached to the front wall of the
>     boot behind the rear axle.? It is quiet with only a slight hum,
>     and I can?t hear it with the engine running.
>
>     My usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg of a
>     trip, then switch to the backup for the return.? Three times since
>     doing the modification, I have had occasion to switch to the
>     backup when the SU stumbled (in the middle of Atlanta traffic) and
>     twice when it failed to start the car. These ?failures? were only
>     temporary because the SU performed just fine when switched back
>     later.? I have since rebuilt the SU. After Conclave in Deadwood, I
>     joined the group touring the northern states, and decided to split
>     off from them and make a 160-mile detour alone over into Montana
>     just to check that state off my list.? The weather that day was
>     rainy and chilly.? Just as I got into Montana on an isolated
>     country road, I felt the car suddenly failing to respond to the
>     accelerator.? As soon as I figured out what was happening, I
>     switched to the SU and kept motoring.? I was able to find another
>     identical generic pump at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning
>     and had it installed in about 15 minutes.? I used it to get back
>     to North Carolina. Easy peasy?. I was so glad not to have to rely
>     on having to install a spare carried in the boot, on the side of
>     the road, in the rain or in the dark.
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     HBJ8L/36666
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     Havelock, NC? USA
>
>

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From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Wed Feb 19 12:58:02 2020
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 13:58:02 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
Message-ID: <000001d5e75e$e474ce60$ad5e6b20$@glasgow-ky.com>

Thanks for the recent posts offering advice on the Dennis Welch aluminum
head.

I'm ready to order, I have never ordered from England before, so would
appreciate advice from those who have.

I assume there will be VAT added to their catalogue prices, do they simply
add that like we do sales tax?

Is there a possibility of US Customs duty charges?  If so about how much
(order should be about U$2200).

Anything else I should be aware of when ordering from England?

 

               Thanks!       Chappy Rice BN2

 

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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Wed Feb 19 14:39:42 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 21:39:42 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] UK purchases to USA
Message-ID: <000d01d5e76d$188923f0$499b6bd0$@btinternet.com>

No VAT is charged on purchases from the UK which are being exported.  No
idea whether the USA charges any form of import duty.

 

Ian

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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Feb 19 15:05:07 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 22:05:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5e75e$e474ce60$ad5e6b20$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5e75e$e474ce60$ad5e6b20$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432A3E96C62595BF92BC2F4A5100@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

VAT is only for domestic purchases (still including EU as far as I know) so you won't be charged that. Expect to pay a fairly high shipping cost due to weight and size. If I recall correctly Royal Mail was the least expensive if it's available. My orders from DW were never charged a duty, but some from other vendors have been. I think it depends on how the contents are described. I think it was under 3%.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 7:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch


Thanks for the recent posts offering advice on the Dennis Welch aluminum head.

I?m ready to order, I have never ordered from England before, so would appreciate advice from those who have.

I assume there will be VAT added to their catalogue prices, do they simply add that like we do sales tax?

Is there a possibility of US Customs duty charges?  If so about how much (order should be about U$2200).

Anything else I should be aware of when ordering from England?



               Thanks!       Chappy Rice BN2


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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Feb 19 15:18:56 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 17:18:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  UK purchases to USA
In-Reply-To: <000d01d5e76d$188923f0$499b6bd0$@btinternet.com>
References: <000d01d5e76d$188923f0$499b6bd0$@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <01fb01d5e772$93c8b530$bb5a1f90$@gmail.com>

No sales tax or import duties will be charged on purchases from U.K. or any
other country,  if the package comes via HRM Postal Service or any country
to USPS Post office.  However, if it is sent via UPS/FEDex they are required
to charge Sales Tax and Customs Duties, in addition, a fee for clearing the
good through U.S. customs because they are a licensed U.S. Customs Broker.

 

Bob

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Ian Hey via
Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 4:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] UK purchases to USA

 

No VAT is charged on purchases from the UK which are being exported.  No
idea whether the USA charges any form of import duty.

 

Ian

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Feb 19 15:25:22 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 14:25:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432A3E96C62595BF92BC2F4A5100@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000001d5e75e$e474ce60$ad5e6b20$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432A3E96C62595BF92BC2F4A5100@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <C957F73A673C44F9A5D8155C0C43E0B8@DavidNockHP>

Yes there will be shipping and customs.   Be sure and use the upgraded head gasket, yes it is expensive but if you don?t you will have a head gasket leak. Also be sure and use the hardened head studs.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE 
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 2:05 PM
To: Charles Rice ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch

VAT is only for domestic purchases (still including EU as far as I know) so you won't be charged that. Expect to pay a fairly high shipping cost due to weight and size. If I recall correctly Royal Mail was the least expensive if it's available. My orders from DW were never charged a duty, but some from other vendors have been. I think it depends on how the contents are described. I think it was under 3%.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 7:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch 

Thanks for the recent posts offering advice on the Dennis Welch aluminum head.

I?m ready to order, I have never ordered from England before, so would appreciate advice from those who have.

I assume there will be VAT added to their catalogue prices, do they simply add that like we do sales tax?

Is there a possibility of US Customs duty charges?  If so about how much (order should be about U$2200).

Anything else I should be aware of when ordering from England?



               Thanks!       Chappy Rice BN2





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Feb 19 15:54:51 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 22:54:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
References: <529574218.5426990.1582152891385.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <529574218.5426990.1582152891385@mail.yahoo.com>

Bob,
FWIW; I have been running 1/4 inch spacers behind the hubs on the rear of my BJ8 for over 40 years.? No problems - no lost wheels either!!? :)? On really hard cornering the tires have slight rub on the two bolts which mount the bump stop boxes.I run Jaguar 72 spoke wires which have more/less offset (not sure which) than stock Healey wheels so the need for more clearance for tires.? For many many years I ran 185/15 Michelin Redlines but now have 185/15 Vredenstein from Hendrix.Again FWIWKeith

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 18, 2020 5:39 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

Listeners:

I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.? The first 100 miles I
did not hear or feel any rubbing until? I took a couple of sharp turns and
heard rubbing on the rear tires.? Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.? On the
right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
can see in first picture.? My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.? 

Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
The? one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap with
the wheel in the second to last picture.? It has a larger gap than the right
side.? However, that dog leg shows wear also.? As you can see in the second
picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
an angle.? I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.? I have a friend who
is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
rolled edge.? What would you say to this fix?

Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the radius
arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing on
the tire.? I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it a
smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
cause it to unscrew.? What do you think of this fix?

Of course, a little paint afterwards.? 

I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.? I want to keep them.


Regards,

Bob Begani



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed Feb 19 16:00:05 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 15:00:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] FW: UK purchases to USA
In-Reply-To: <01fb01d5e772$93c8b530$bb5a1f90$@gmail.com>
References: <000d01d5e76d$188923f0$499b6bd0$@btinternet.com>
 <01fb01d5e772$93c8b530$bb5a1f90$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQHFVyRU7bQUJnOTSfzmQg1m0m5HmC-m5+funbP8KHE6g@mail.gmail.com>

Bob is correct about HRM to USPS, and I always inquire as to whether this
is an option when shipping parts from the UK.... It isn't always.

Curt

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 2:19 PM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> No sales tax or import duties will be charged on purchases from U.K. or
> any other country,  if the package comes via HRM Postal Service or any
> country to USPS Post office.  However, if it is sent via UPS/FEDex they are
> required to charge Sales Tax and Customs Duties, in addition, a fee for
> clearing the good through U.S. customs because they are a licensed U.S.
> Customs Broker.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Ian Hey
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 19, 2020 4:40 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] UK purchases to USA
>
>
>
> No VAT is charged on purchases from the UK which are being exported.  No
> idea whether the USA charges any form of import duty.
>
>
>
> Ian
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 19 19:09:32 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2020 02:09:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 frame motor mounts
Message-ID: <MN2PR04MB575895BAF8021622C3A53F8ED4130@MN2PR04MB5758.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Anyone have positioning specs for the 100-4 frame motor mounts? Thank you, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Feb 19 21:38:47 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2020 04:38:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 frame motor mounts
Message-ID: <a926459ab2b4733e122a4016444d16dfe064a226@webmail>

Check the Robert Bentley version of the workshop manual. On page 374
is the chassis alignment drawing and on 375 are the dimensions.
Although for the BN4, I used some of these numbers on the front end to
align the 100 and they agreed. The longer frame difference is further
back in the car. There isn't a chassis drawing for the 100 that
readily available. This one is useful...its in the factory printing as
well- Section R. It is also online if you look for "A-H chassis
alignment image". Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "S and T Miller" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday February 19 2020 6:10:05PM
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 frame motor mounts

  Anyone have positioning specs for the 100-4 frame motor mounts?
Thank you, Shawn

 The Millers

 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive."

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Feb 19 21:50:16 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2020 20:50:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
In-Reply-To: <C957F73A673C44F9A5D8155C0C43E0B8@DavidNockHP>
References: <000001d5e75e$e474ce60$ad5e6b20$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432A3E96C62595BF92BC2F4A5100@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <C957F73A673C44F9A5D8155C0C43E0B8@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <93142939-beac-c76d-0212-27f64ef5112a@comcast.net>

Last I ordered from DWM--a couple years ago--they told me they had an 
'arrangement' with UPS and that's how their shipment came to me. UPS 
will hold your items hostage until you pay customs charges*; IIRC they 
will notify you by email and you can pay online with a CC.

* My last shipment was for about $2K worth of parts; depending on how 
it's described you could be on the hook for quite a bit more.

Bob

On 2/19/2020 2:25 PM, David Nock wrote:
> Yes there will be shipping and customs.?? Be sure and use the upgraded 
> head gasket, yes it is expensive but if you don?t you will have a head 
> gasket leak. Also be sure and use the hardened head studs.
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 19, 2020 2:05 PM
> *To:* Charles Rice ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
> VAT is only for domestic purchases (still including EU as far as I 
> know) so you won't be charged that. Expect to pay a fairly high 
> shipping cost due to weight and size. If I recall correctly Royal Mail 
> was the least expensive if it's available. My orders from DW were 
> never charged a duty, but some from other vendors have been. I think 
> it depends on how the contents are described. I think it was under 3%.
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles 
> Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 19, 2020 7:58 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welch
>
> Thanks for the recent posts offering advice on the Dennis Welch 
> aluminum head.
>
> I?m ready to order, I have never ordered from England before, so would 
> appreciate advice from those who have.
>
> I assume there will be VAT added to their catalogue prices, do they 
> simply add that like we do sales tax?
>
> Is there a possibility of US Customs duty charges?? If so about how 
> much (order should be about U$2200).
>
> Anything else I should be aware of when ordering from England?
>
> ?????????????? Thanks! Chappy Rice BN2
>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Feb 20 09:32:15 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2020 08:32:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>

The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering.
Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7
last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All
British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard
and took first place. No rubbing.

On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 1:43 PM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listeners:
>
> I decided to use the larger 180/R XAS because those of you who owned them
> indicated they fill up the wheel well and do not rub.  The first 100 miles
> I
> did not hear or feel any rubbing until  I took a couple of sharp turns and
> heard rubbing on the rear tires.   Because I am replacing the fuel pump, I
> had the opportunity to look carefully at the cause of the rubbing.  On the
> right rear wheel the rubbing is evident at the edge of the dog leg as you
> can see in first picture.  My dog legs have been repaired during the frame
> off restoration with a skin panel and the dimensions may not be original.
>
> Last picture the lower part of the panel is 9 1/2 inches to the door frame.
> The  one on the other side is 9 1/8 inches long. As you can see the gap
> with
> the wheel in the second to last picture.  It has a larger gap than the
> right
> side.   However, that dog leg shows wear also.  As you can see in the
> second
> picture inside the dog leg skin on the right side attaches to the frame on
> an angle.  I am proposing slicing off one inch of skin.  I have a friend
> who
> is an artist with a cutoff saw, can weld a bead on anything and create a
> rolled edge.  What would you say to this fix?
>
> Also, on the inside of the wheel well you can see the nut holding the
> radius
> arm sticks out from the indentation into the well and shows light rubbing
> on
> the tire.  I am proposing cutting off the excess thread and then giving it
> a
> smooth dressing which would not disturb the strength of the bolt and or
> cause it to unscrew.  What do you think of this fix?
>
> Of course, a little paint afterwards.
>
> I like the ride of the tires and the feel of the road.  I want to keep
> them.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Fri Feb 21 01:23:39 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2020 03:23:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>

Richard,

 

My friend the machinist, rigger, etc. came over this morning to help me measure the centering of the differential/axel and found everything within 1/8th of an inch. In addition, we inspected the bushings on the radius arm,  which controls the fore and aft motion of the axel (the Panhard controls the side to side motion),  and everything else. All are solid.   Eventhough the radius arm bolts sticking out into the wheels are not rubbing the tires, I will cut of the heads of the bolts and glue a plastic/rubber cap over them.  The only rubbing is the edge of the dogleg on the right hand side, so I will be careful not to make hard left turns until I discuss rolling the edge of the dogleg with a body repair expert.  There are a few items that need touching up and paint on the body 30 years after the on frame restoration.  

 

In addition, I was questioning the tire pressure and asked long stone tyres in the U.K. where I bought the tires   there response: In terms of pressure, I think you are in the ball park with 30psi, I would have no problem with you going up a bit from there but wouldn?t recommend any more than 36-38.

 

Regarding the rubbing, It is an issue we come across from time to time as all these cars are virtually hand built and many have had work done over the years, I don?t know them well enough but is possible to adjust where the axle sits, ie move it slightly to the other side?

 

 

I found the right rear tire was actually only 28 psi so I will increase the pressure to 32 Psi on all wheels and drive the car for another hundred miles or more to see what happens.

 

Thanks to everyone for your comments.

 

Bob Begani

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 11:32 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

 

The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering. Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7 last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard and took first place. No rubbing. 

 

 

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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Feb 21 12:42:18 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2020 19:42:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB34329A36AA29DD70310ABB02A5120@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I put a set of Vreidestein 185 HR15s on my BN1 and had no trouble with clearance in the rear, but the fronts both rubbed on the upper wheel openings. The taller tires were a big help with ground clearance, but I had to go smaller because of the smaller wheel openings on the BN1. I sold those tires to after dinner for his Mk II  Jaguar and bought 175-70R 15s. I should have gone with 165-HR 15s instead, but these will do for the time being.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 8:23:39 AM
To: 'richard mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8


Richard,



My friend the machinist, rigger, etc. came over this morning to help me measure the centering of the differential/axel and found everything within 1/8th of an inch. In addition, we inspected the bushings on the radius arm,  which controls the fore and aft motion of the axel (the Panhard controls the side to side motion),  and everything else. All are solid.   Eventhough the radius arm bolts sticking out into the wheels are not rubbing the tires, I will cut of the heads of the bolts and glue a plastic/rubber cap over them.  The only rubbing is the edge of the dogleg on the right hand side, so I will be careful not to make hard left turns until I discuss rolling the edge of the dogleg with a body repair expert.  There are a few items that need touching up and paint on the body 30 years after the on frame restoration.



In addition, I was questioning the tire pressure and asked long stone tyres in the U.K. where I bought the tires   there response: In terms of pressure, I think you are in the ball park with 30psi, I would have no problem with you going up a bit from there but wouldn?t recommend any more than 36-38.



Regarding the rubbing, It is an issue we come across from time to time as all these cars are virtually hand built and many have had work done over the years, I don?t know them well enough but is possible to adjust where the axle sits, ie move it slightly to the other side?





I found the right rear tire was actually only 28 psi so I will increase the pressure to 32 Psi on all wheels and drive the car for another hundred miles or more to see what happens.



Thanks to everyone for your comments.



Bob Begani

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 11:32 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8



The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering. Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7 last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard and took first place. No rubbing.




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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Feb 21 12:46:28 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2020 19:46:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB34329A36AA29DD70310ABB02A5120@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>,
 <CY4PR07MB34329A36AA29DD70310ABB02A5120@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432EFB74EB3672E56D92106A5120@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

After dinner = a friend... just gotta love spell check.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 7:42:18 PM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>; 'richard mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8

I put a set of Vreidestein 185 HR15s on my BN1 and had no trouble with clearance in the rear, but the fronts both rubbed on the upper wheel openings. The taller tires were a big help with ground clearance, but I had to go smaller because of the smaller wheel openings on the BN1. I sold those tires to after dinner for his Mk II  Jaguar and bought 175-70R 15s. I should have gone with 165-HR 15s instead, but these will do for the time being.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 8:23:39 AM
To: 'richard mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8


Richard,



My friend the machinist, rigger, etc. came over this morning to help me measure the centering of the differential/axel and found everything within 1/8th of an inch. In addition, we inspected the bushings on the radius arm,  which controls the fore and aft motion of the axel (the Panhard controls the side to side motion),  and everything else. All are solid.   Eventhough the radius arm bolts sticking out into the wheels are not rubbing the tires, I will cut of the heads of the bolts and glue a plastic/rubber cap over them.  The only rubbing is the edge of the dogleg on the right hand side, so I will be careful not to make hard left turns until I discuss rolling the edge of the dogleg with a body repair expert.  There are a few items that need touching up and paint on the body 30 years after the on frame restoration.



In addition, I was questioning the tire pressure and asked long stone tyres in the U.K. where I bought the tires   there response: In terms of pressure, I think you are in the ball park with 30psi, I would have no problem with you going up a bit from there but wouldn?t recommend any more than 36-38.



Regarding the rubbing, It is an issue we come across from time to time as all these cars are virtually hand built and many have had work done over the years, I don?t know them well enough but is possible to adjust where the axle sits, ie move it slightly to the other side?





I found the right rear tire was actually only 28 psi so I will increase the pressure to 32 Psi on all wheels and drive the car for another hundred miles or more to see what happens.



Thanks to everyone for your comments.



Bob Begani

From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 11:32 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8



The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering. Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7 last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard and took first place. No rubbing.




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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Feb 21 16:49:04 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2020 18:49:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>
 <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B45BxYk4qGD9xJWgr=2NnhTqDWA0DcA+H5YDkGm8r+u_w@mail.gmail.com>

I use 30m psi all around on my XAS's.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Feb 21, 2020 at 3:24 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
>
>
> My friend the machinist, rigger, etc. came over this morning to help me
> measure the centering of the differential/axel and found everything within
> 1/8th of an inch. In addition, we inspected the bushings on the radius
> arm,  which controls the fore and aft motion of the axel (the Panhard
> controls the side to side motion),  and everything else. All are solid.
>   Eventhough the radius arm bolts sticking out into the wheels are not
> rubbing the tires, I will cut of the heads of the bolts and glue a
> plastic/rubber cap over them.  The only rubbing is the edge of the dogleg
> on the right hand side, so I will be careful not to make hard left turns
> until I discuss rolling the edge of the dogleg with a body repair expert.
> There are a few items that need touching up and paint on the body 30 years
> after the on frame restoration.
>
>
>
> In addition, I was questioning the tire pressure and asked long stone
> tyres in the U.K. where I bought the tires   there response: In terms of
> pressure, I think you are in the ball park with 30psi, I would have no
> problem with you going up a bit from there but wouldn?t recommend any more
> than 36-38.
>
>
>
> Regarding the rubbing, It is an issue we come across from time to time as
> all these cars are virtually hand built and many have had work done over
> the years, I don?t know them well enough but is possible to adjust where
> the axle sits, ie move it slightly to the other side?
>
>
>
>
>
> I found the right rear tire was actually only 28 psi so I will increase
> the pressure to 32 Psi on all wheels and drive the car for another hundred
> miles or more to see what happens.
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for your comments.
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
> *From:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 20, 2020 11:32 AM
> *To:* Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel
> well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering.
> Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7
> last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All
> British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard
> and took first place. No rubbing.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Feb 21 16:54:44 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2020 18:54:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel well
 too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B45BxYk4qGD9xJWgr=2NnhTqDWA0DcA+H5YDkGm8r+u_w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <012201d5e6a2$54d23390$fe769ab0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM3=oB-RMqPmU+G+DLNirEZUFdZLz1Nkr=nQ+uoLYDJOw@mail.gmail.com>
 <03b101d5e890$3933d310$ab9b7930$@gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B45BxYk4qGD9xJWgr=2NnhTqDWA0DcA+H5YDkGm8r+u_w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6QDe966z5bG6p3SA_vpTBU33bkJH1QJ-b59=qU7zm8xA@mail.gmail.com>

(pushed send button too fast on last message)

I use 30m psi all around on the 180-15 XAS's on my BN1.  I have no
clearance issues on wheel openings and in view of what others have
experienced I guess I should count myself lucky.

Best--Michael Oritt

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Feb 21, 2020 at 6:49 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I use 30m psi all around on my XAS's.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Fri, Feb 21, 2020 at 3:24 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Richard,
>>
>>
>>
>> My friend the machinist, rigger, etc. came over this morning to help me
>> measure the centering of the differential/axel and found everything within
>> 1/8th of an inch. In addition, we inspected the bushings on the radius
>> arm,  which controls the fore and aft motion of the axel (the Panhard
>> controls the side to side motion),  and everything else. All are solid.
>>   Eventhough the radius arm bolts sticking out into the wheels are not
>> rubbing the tires, I will cut of the heads of the bolts and glue a
>> plastic/rubber cap over them.  The only rubbing is the edge of the dogleg
>> on the right hand side, so I will be careful not to make hard left turns
>> until I discuss rolling the edge of the dogleg with a body repair expert.
>> There are a few items that need touching up and paint on the body 30 years
>> after the on frame restoration.
>>
>>
>>
>> In addition, I was questioning the tire pressure and asked long stone
>> tyres in the U.K. where I bought the tires   there response: In terms of
>> pressure, I think you are in the ball park with 30psi, I would have no
>> problem with you going up a bit from there but wouldn?t recommend any more
>> than 36-38.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regarding the rubbing, It is an issue we come across from time to time as
>> all these cars are virtually hand built and many have had work done over
>> the years, I don?t know them well enough but is possible to adjust where
>> the axle sits, ie move it slightly to the other side?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I found the right rear tire was actually only 28 psi so I will increase
>> the pressure to 32 Psi on all wheels and drive the car for another hundred
>> miles or more to see what happens.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to everyone for your comments.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Begani
>>
>> *From:* richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 20, 2020 11:32 AM
>> *To:* Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Michelin 180/ R15 XAS tires Fill up the wheel
>> well too much and rub on late 67 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> The panhard bar is there to keep the rear axle centered  when cornering.
>> Check your panhard bar bushings. I put the Michelin 180 XAS tires on my BT7
>> last Spring and I drove it all summer with no rubbing. Even entered the All
>> British Field Meet autocross at PIR in September. Drove the car really hard
>> and took first place. No rubbing.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Feb 22 10:23:55 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2020 17:23:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>

I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of my BN2 yesterday.? The right side went fine.? The left side rod was another matter.? I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they must have been designed by an idiot.? These side rods have sealed ball joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.? I was lucky with the right side when it tightened up correctly.? For some reason the left rod ball joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.? After the threads turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.? This is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.? So, instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side rod.? To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our usual suppliers are a different configuration.? The boots are replaceable and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.? Of course this means I have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.? Moss wants 80 bucks each.? Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.? Rant over.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Feb 22 11:27:01 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2020 13:27:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
In-Reply-To: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcXZtF7sPVjS2S6XjY7N7c7MFb0RAor7_cz-P=EyBqDPA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

Use a pickle fork ball joint separator to wedge the ball joint from turning
and get the nut started.  Gradually withdraw it as you continue to tighten
the nut.

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 12:24 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of
> my BN2 yesterday.  The right side went fine.  The left side rod was another
> matter.  I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they
> must have been designed by an idiot.  These side rods have sealed ball
> joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.  I was lucky with the right
> side when it tightened up correctly.  For some reason the left rod ball
> joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.  After the threads
> turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.  This
> is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.  So,
> instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side
> rod.  To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our
> usual suppliers are a different configuration.  The boots are replaceable
> and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.  Of course this means I
> have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.  Moss wants 80 bucks
> each.  Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.  Rant over.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Feb 22 11:32:03 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2020 18:32:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcXZtF7sPVjS2S6XjY7N7c7MFb0RAor7_cz-P=EyBqDPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZcXZtF7sPVjS2S6XjY7N7c7MFb0RAor7_cz-P=EyBqDPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1344538402.6736916.1582396323328@mail.yahoo.com>

 I was using an impact gun on low torque setting with my son pulling the joint tight as I applied the gun.? Worked great on the right side.? Just spun the threads when we got to the left side.? I figure it will be different with the castle nuts on the new side rods.? No nylon to grab the threads.? Maybe.? Your pickle fork idea sounds like you need three hands to accomplish.Mike MacLean

    On Saturday, February 22, 2020, 10:27:15 AM PST, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Mike,
Use a pickle fork ball joint separator to wedge the ball joint from turning and get the nut started.? Gradually withdraw it as you continue to tighten the nut.??
Happy Healeying,Rick Neville
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 12:24 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of my BN2 yesterday.? The right side went fine.? The left side rod was another matter.? I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they must have been designed by an idiot.? These side rods have sealed ball joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.? I was lucky with the right side when it tightened up correctly.? For some reason the left rod ball joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.? After the threads turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.? This is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.? So, instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side rod.? To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our usual suppliers are a different configuration.? The boots are replaceable and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.? Of course this means I have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.? Moss wants 80 bucks each.? Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.? Rant over.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Feb 22 11:36:02 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2020 13:36:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
In-Reply-To: <1344538402.6736916.1582396323328@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZcXZtF7sPVjS2S6XjY7N7c7MFb0RAor7_cz-P=EyBqDPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1344538402.6736916.1582396323328@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcj41cXZEQSaQQDPLmrTQwAE-zuJAMsfCaLexM_zjksPw@mail.gmail.com>

Two hands only.  Insert pickle fork.  Put nut on thread and use ratchet to
tighten with one hand.  Use the other hand to apply downward pressure on
the pickle fork to use it as a lever and keep the ball from turning.  It
works.  Have I ever "steered" you wrong?

On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 1:32 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I was using an impact gun on low torque setting with my son pulling the
> joint tight as I applied the gun.  Worked great on the right side.  Just
> spun the threads when we got to the left side.  I figure it will be
> different with the castle nuts on the new side rods.  No nylon to grab the
> threads.  Maybe.  Your pickle fork idea sounds like you need three hands to
> accomplish.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Saturday, February 22, 2020, 10:27:15 AM PST, HealeyRick <
> healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> Use a pickle fork ball joint separator to wedge the ball joint from
> turning and get the nut started.  Gradually withdraw it as you continue to
> tighten the nut.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 12:24 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
> I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of
> my BN2 yesterday.  The right side went fine.  The left side rod was another
> matter.  I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they
> must have been designed by an idiot.  These side rods have sealed ball
> joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.  I was lucky with the right
> side when it tightened up correctly.  For some reason the left rod ball
> joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.  After the threads
> turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.  This
> is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.  So,
> instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side
> rod.  To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our
> usual suppliers are a different configuration.  The boots are replaceable
> and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.  Of course this means I
> have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.  Moss wants 80 bucks
> each.  Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.  Rant over.
> Mike MacLean
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Feb 22 12:58:39 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2020 08:58:39 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcj41cXZEQSaQQDPLmrTQwAE-zuJAMsfCaLexM_zjksPw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZcXZtF7sPVjS2S6XjY7N7c7MFb0RAor7_cz-P=EyBqDPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1344538402.6736916.1582396323328@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGfzsZcj41cXZEQSaQQDPLmrTQwAE-zuJAMsfCaLexM_zjksPw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKVtULA+X=-qNtUQRbEXvxzdtjRgXLTkUfusWtt1scuuw@mail.gmail.com>

Actually there is an easier way.
Put washers under the nut so that only about 3 threads are showing.
Install a plain nut and tighten it to lock the pin into the taper.
Remove the nut and washers then install the nylock nut.
Easy as!!

M

On Sun, Feb 23, 2020, 7:36 AM HealeyRick, <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Two hands only.  Insert pickle fork.  Put nut on thread and use ratchet to
> tighten with one hand.  Use the other hand to apply downward pressure on
> the pickle fork to use it as a lever and keep the ball from turning.  It
> works.  Have I ever "steered" you wrong?
>
> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 1:32 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I was using an impact gun on low torque setting with my son pulling the
>> joint tight as I applied the gun.  Worked great on the right side.  Just
>> spun the threads when we got to the left side.  I figure it will be
>> different with the castle nuts on the new side rods.  No nylon to grab the
>> threads.  Maybe.  Your pickle fork idea sounds like you need three hands to
>> accomplish.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Saturday, February 22, 2020, 10:27:15 AM PST, HealeyRick <
>> healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Use a pickle fork ball joint separator to wedge the ball joint from
>> turning and get the nut started.  Gradually withdraw it as you continue to
>> tighten the nut.
>>
>> Happy Healeying,
>> Rick Neville
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 12:24 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of
>> my BN2 yesterday.  The right side went fine.  The left side rod was another
>> matter.  I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they
>> must have been designed by an idiot.  These side rods have sealed ball
>> joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.  I was lucky with the right
>> side when it tightened up correctly.  For some reason the left rod ball
>> joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.  After the threads
>> turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.  This
>> is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.  So,
>> instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side
>> rod.  To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our
>> usual suppliers are a different configuration.  The boots are replaceable
>> and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.  Of course this means I
>> have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.  Moss wants 80 bucks
>> each.  Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.  Rant over.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Feb 23 10:04:19 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2020 12:04:19 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for BN4L-O-38287
Message-ID: <7d5c1bc4-7ff0-52ca-868d-f955a7aa9cfd@earthlink.net>

Listers,

I have a Chilton's Repair & Tune-up Guide that was apparently owned by 
this 100-6's owner.  There are some handwritten notes about the work 
done on the car which was purchased in January 1971.

I'd like to reunite the book with the car, if anyone knows its whereabouts.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Feb 23 13:37:08 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2020 20:37:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
In-Reply-To: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <979275537.6720864.1582392235514.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <979275537.6720864.1582392235514@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432F2C01A83A9C5ED7CD188A5EF0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

The problem is that there is more friction in the thread than in the tapered joint. Make sure the tapers on the joint and in the arm are both dry, maybe clean them with some lacquer thinner. Make sure the tapers are lined up and use the pickle fork to maintain tension on the joint as you draw it together with the nut. At some point it will lock together.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2020 5:23:55 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant

I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of my BN2 yesterday.  The right side went fine.  The left side rod was another matter.  I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they must have been designed by an idiot.  These side rods have sealed ball joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type.  I was lucky with the right side when it tightened up correctly.  For some reason the left rod ball joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten.  After the threads turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking.  This is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring.  So, instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side rod.  To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our usual suppliers are a different configuration.  The boots are replaceable and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin.  Of course this means I have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost.  Moss wants 80 bucks each.  Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap.  Rant over.
Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Feb 24 09:51:57 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2020 16:51:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] test
References: <1548941872.883820.1582563117558.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1548941872.883820.1582563117558@mail.yahoo.com>

no reply necessary
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Feb 24 10:54:44 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2020 17:54:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
Message-ID: <4bf368b59e078f3f5eaeca59ddbf7c2fc6ec684f@webmail>

Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:eBay item
number:274284644998Seller assumes all responsibility for this
listing.Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and
lots of leaves. Hank, healeyhelper.com
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Feb 24 14:07:50 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:07:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Books for sale
In-Reply-To: <A76F8A9F-852C-4FFE-9820-3E93303B5191@me.com>
References: <A76F8A9F-852C-4FFE-9820-3E93303B5191@me.com>
Message-ID: <447690169.7628835.1582578470364@mail.yahoo.com>

Those of you on the Spridget list probably already know about this, but Bob asked me to forward this to the big Healey list.? Bob is at a point in his life that he needs to make a tremendous downsize in the British car involvement and offers his collection of Healey and automotive books.? He also has a Bugeye, a square body in pieces, but mostly finished and a late model Miata for sale.? Bob is in Prescott, Arizona.? Knowing him the way I do, all items for sale will be in top notch condition.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
   ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "Bob Kitterer" <bkitterer at me.com> To: "MacLean Mike" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> Cc:  Sent: Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 11:53 AM Subject: Books for sale  Mike, ?if you are on a big Healey list could you post the following for me?
Thanks
Bob ?Kitterer

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in?disguise)
1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor)?- still in boxes
2013 Miata2017 Mazda CX9

Pay it forward.
Thanks Frank



I am selling the following list of Healey, Sprite, Midget books and general interest Automotive books.? The prices are the best current prices I could find on Amazon and e-Bay.? List members subtract 30%. Shipping is not included. If interested please e-mail me at?bkitterer at me.com?
Healey, Sprite, Midget Books
Donald Healey, My World of Cars, by Peter Garnier with Brian Healey; forward by Carroll Shelby. Hardcover; 1989; ISBN 1852602120; $100
Essential Austin Healey 100 and 3000, by Mike Lawrence; 1994; Paperback; ISBN 1870979494; $50
Factory-Orignal Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000: The originality guide to six-cylinder Austin Healeys, 1956-1968?by Bill Piggott; 2014; Hardcover; ISBN 1906133573; $46
How to Modify Your Mini,?by David Vizard; 1977; Paperback; ISBN 863430414; $110
How to Power Tune Midget and Sprite for Road and Track?by Daniel Stapleton-autographed; 2000; Paperback; ISBN 1901295737; $50
MG Midget and Austin Healey Sprite Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration?by Lindsay Porter; 1989; Hardcover; ISBN 854293361; $55
More Healeys: Frog Eyes, Sprites and Midgets?by Geoffrey Healey; 1978; Hardcover; ISBN 085614049X; $80
Sprites and Midgets: The Complete Story?by Anders Ditlev Clausager; 2004; Paperback; ISBN 1861266537; $20
The Big Healeys, a Collector?s Guide?by Graham Robson; 1981; Hardcover; ISBN 900549556; $50
The Healey Book: A Complete History of the Healey Marque?by Bill Emerson (autographed by Gerry Coker, Bill Emerson, John Sprinzel, John Wheatley, Bic Healey), 2002 1st edition, Hardcover; ISBN 1902351045; $200
The Healey Story: A Dynamic Father and Son Partnership and Their World-Beating Cars?by Geofferey Healey, forward by Stirling Moss; 1997, Hardcover; ISBN 854299491; $54
Sprites and Midgets: A Collectors Guide?by Eric Dymock; 1981; Hardcover; ISBN 090054953X; 2 copies; $5 each
Tuning BL?s A-Series Engines?by David Vizard-autographed; 1985; Hardcover; ISBN 854294147; $40
Haynes Automotive Repair Manual, MG Midget, Austin Healey Sprite, 1958 thru 1980; 1988; Paperback; ISBN 85696588; $20
Other Auto Related Books
Heavenly Bodies, The Complete Pirelli Calendar Book; Jan 1975 1st edition; Hardcover; ISBN 517523507; $50
The Art of the Sports Car: The Greatest Designs of the 20th Century?by Dennis Adler, forward by Jay Leno; Oct 2002, 1st edition; Hardcover; ISBN 60188855; $10
Automotive Atrocities - Cars We Love to Hate?by Eric Peters;Jul 2004, 1st edition; Hardcover; ISBN 760317879; $5
The Age of Cars?by Mike Twite; 1974; Hardcover; ISBN 600317595; $25
The Ultimate Classic Car Book?by Quentin Wilson; 1995; Hardcover; IDBN 789401592; $30
50 years of Classic Cars: A Celebration of the World?s Greatest Motor Cars?by Philip de ste Croix, editor Joathan Wood; 1996, Hardcover; ISBN 1858332524; $30
Miata, Mazda MX-5: Mazda?s Affordable Sports Car for the New Millennium?by Jack K. Yamaguchi; 1998 1st edition; Hardcover; ISBN 1569705372; $45
Cars of the Fabulous ?50s, A Decade of High Style and Good Times?by James M. Flammang and the auto editors of Consumer Guide; 1995; Hardcover; ISBN 078530939X; $35
Technical Items
Austin Healey Guide to Historic Colors?by Donald Pikovink;? Color sample, factory paint codes and ICI paint codes; $40
  
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Feb 24 23:01:48 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2020 06:01:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
Message-ID: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>

There is some mystery here, if this is not just a stuffed 100 with
later six. Sitting off to the side in one of the photos is a
6-cylinder bonnet, so this engine could have come from another
100-6/3000 in their garage.

	However, there were 4 BN3s produced. Patrick Quinn has BN3/1. History
says, BN3/4 is in England, unrestored. All four cars were RHD. BN3/2
and BN3/3 are missing. So is the nomenclature on this vehicle.

	Also the radiator was moved forward on the model to make room for the
longer block. The 100 louvered bonnet is strange on this car, as on
the other BN3s, a longer bonnet was created-and they were 4 seaters.
This cars' radiator appears to be under the bonnet more than found on
standard 100s.

	Another questionable item is the center shift gearbox shown in one of
the photos. It should probably be a side shifter.

	You would have to start by removing all the leaves and sort thru the
car to see if a shade tree modification had been done or if it looked
more professional. We then might find the answer.

	Never-the-less an interesting concept...adds to the Healey lore. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Perry" 
To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday February 24 2020 11:52:59AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay

	Had me going for a moment

	Perry

	Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10

	FROM: gradea1 at charter.net [2]
SENT: Monday, February 24, 2020 12:55 PM
TO: 'healeys at autox.team.net' [3]
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay

	Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:

	eBay item number:

	274284644998

	Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

	Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and lots of
leaves. Hank, healeyhelper.com

	 

Links:
------
[1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
[2] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[3] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Feb 25 00:34:17 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2020 23:34:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
In-Reply-To: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
References: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8__DF6cRrkLVhkC7=-JiTHxWEuC-0qm9CQQBjeyGGq5KQ@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like someone put a later center shift trans and stuffed a 6cyl in
there,  gave up and left it.  Would have been cool if it were real.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 10:02 PM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> There is some mystery here, if this is not just a stuffed 100 with later
> six. Sitting off to the side in one of the photos is a 6-cylinder bonnet,
> so this engine could have come from another 100-6/3000 in their garage.
>
> However, there were 4 BN3s produced. Patrick Quinn has BN3/1.   History
> says, BN3/4 is in England, unrestored. All four cars were RHD.  BN3/2 and
> BN3/3 are missing. So is the nomenclature on this vehicle.
>
> Also the radiator was moved forward  on the model to make room for the
> longer block. The 100 louvered bonnet is strange on this car, as on the
> other BN3s, a longer bonnet was created-and they were 4 seaters. This cars'
> radiator appears to be under the bonnet more than found on standard 100s.
>
> Another questionable item is the center shift gearbox shown in one of the
> photos. It should probably be a side shifter.
>
> You would have to start by removing all the leaves and sort thru the car
> to see if a shade tree modification had been done or if it looked more
> professional. We then might find the answer.
>
> Never-the-less an interesting concept...adds to the Healey lore.  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Perry"
> To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday February 24 2020 11:52:59AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
>
> Had me going for a moment
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *gradea1 at charter.net
> *Sent: *Monday, February 24, 2020 12:55 PM
> *To: *'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
>
>
>
> Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:
>
> eBay item number:
>
> 274284644998
>
> Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
>
> Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and lots of
> leaves.  Hank, healeyhelper.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Feb 25 05:37:56 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2020 23:37:56 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
In-Reply-To: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
References: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
Message-ID: <00b201d5ebd8$69097b30$3b1c7190$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

I saw that car online a few months back and I?m afraid it?s not one a BN3, missing or not.

 

Look closely at the footwells and you will see that they are 100/6 or 3000. Yes it does have a centre shift box and a much later 3000 engine.

 

My car is BN3/1 and it is also the first 2+2 while BN3/4 has been restored and is in the Healey Museum in the Netherlands. BN3/4 while nine inches longer is not a 2+2, but is a very interesting car with a de Dion rear end and front suspension attached to a sub-frame. BN3/1 is built on a pre-production chassis and is fitted with standard 100 panels including bonnet albeit with louvres. 

 

Logic tells me that if there is a BN3/1 and a BN3/4, there is likely to be a BN3/2 and BN3/3, but neither has never surfaced.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Tuesday, 25 February 2020 5:02 PM
To: 'Perry'
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay

 

There is some mystery here, if this is not just a stuffed 100 with later six. Sitting off to the side in one of the photos is a 6-cylinder bonnet, so this engine could have come from another 100-6/3000 in their garage.

However, there were 4 BN3s produced. Patrick Quinn has BN3/1.   History says, BN3/4 is in England, unrestored. All four cars were RHD.  BN3/2 and BN3/3 are missing. So is the nomenclature on this vehicle.

Also the radiator was moved forward  on the model to make room for the longer block. The 100 louvered bonnet is strange on this car, as on the other BN3s, a longer bonnet was created-and they were 4 seaters. This cars' radiator appears to be under the bonnet more than found on standard 100s.

Another questionable item is the center shift gearbox shown in one of the photos. It should probably be a side shifter.

You would have to start by removing all the leaves and sort thru the car to see if a shade tree modification had been done or if it looked more professional. We then might find the answer.

Never-the-less an interesting concept...adds to the Healey lore.  Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Perry" 
To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday February 24 2020 11:52:59AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay

Had me going for a moment

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2020 12:55 PM
To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay

 

Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:

eBay item number:

274284644998

Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and lots of leaves.  Hank, healeyhelper.com

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Feb 25 19:07:56 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2020 21:07:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
In-Reply-To: <00b201d5ebd8$69097b30$3b1c7190$@tpg.com.au>
References: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
 <00b201d5ebd8$69097b30$3b1c7190$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <mailman.27.1582682885.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Not to beat a dead horse or in this case a dead AH, but it looks like when the BK8 engine and trans was matted to this car they used the BJ8 wiring harness and of course the later choke cables. Some of the stuff on the firewall is of a much later vintage.   Enlarged the available photos as big as the pixels allowed to see what may be hiding there but not to much revealed.  The rear guards appear to be BN1 or very early BN2 but that could have been changed out along the life span of this old car. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2020 12:55 PM
To: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
?
Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:
eBay item number:
274284644998
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and lots of leaves.? Hank, healeyhelper.com
?

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Feb 25 19:07:56 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2020 21:07:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
In-Reply-To: <00b201d5ebd8$69097b30$3b1c7190$@tpg.com.au>
References: <de67e1f3b7f019b870cd3a2fc58266a98a95a795@webmail>
 <00b201d5ebd8$69097b30$3b1c7190$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <mailman.28.1582682886.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Not to beat a dead horse or in this case a dead AH, but it looks like when the BK8 engine and trans was matted to this car they used the BJ8 wiring harness and of course the later choke cables. Some of the stuff on the firewall is of a much later vintage.   Enlarged the available photos as big as the pixels allowed to see what may be hiding there but not to much revealed.  The rear guards appear to be BN1 or very early BN2 but that could have been changed out along the life span of this old car. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2020 12:55 PM
To: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100 on ebay
?
Looks like there is a RHD BN3 for sale on ebay:
eBay item number:
274284644998
Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.
Located in Richmond VA. and equipped with a six cylinder and lots of leaves.? Hank, healeyhelper.com
?

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 26 11:36:16 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 18:36:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit
References: <694860534.945829.1582742176736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <694860534.945829.1582742176736@mail.yahoo.com>

I hate to keep bombing the list with what seems to be a problem daily, but looking for advice.? As a final assembly part of my front hubs the dust cover grease cap is supposed to be driven into the extended spline hub.? I have the correct cups for this(according to the Moss catalog), but I cannot get them to go inside the hub without great difficulty.? I measured them to find out why.? The outer diameter of the grease cup is .002 over two inches in diameter.? The inner diameter of the spline hub extension is 1.880 in diameter.? That's over 20 thou difference.? That is hardly an interference fit.? It will take a great effort to shove this into place and I am afraid if I do, it won't come back out.? How difficult should it be to push the grease cup into place?? I have also been given advice to just leave them out as the knock offs will cover the inside of the hubs.? That would probably be alright in the grand scheme of things, but just wondering what others have done when, and if they ran into this problem.Mike MacLean
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Feb 26 12:06:26 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 11:06:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit
In-Reply-To: <694860534.945829.1582742176736@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <694860534.945829.1582742176736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <694860534.945829.1582742176736@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <fc9d7871-f679-9906-f5f3-623107e67036@comcast.net>

Are they out of round?

On 2/26/2020 10:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I hate to keep bombing the list with what seems to be a problem daily, 
> but looking for advice.? As a final assembly part of my front hubs the 
> dust cover grease cap is supposed to be driven into the extended 
> spline hub.? I have the correct cups for this(according to the Moss 
> catalog), but I cannot get them to go inside the hub without great 
> difficulty.? I measured them to find out why. The outer diameter of 
> the grease cup is .002 over two inches in diameter.? The inner 
> diameter of the spline hub extension is 1.880 in diameter.? That's 
> over 20 thou difference.? That is hardly an interference fit.? It will 
> take a great effort to shove this into place and I am afraid if I do, 
> it won't come back out.? How difficult should it be to push the grease 
> cup into place?? I have also been given advice to just leave them out 
> as the knock offs will cover the inside of the hubs.? That would 
> probably be alright in the grand scheme of things, but just wondering 
> what others have done when, and if they ran into this problem.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Feb 26 12:39:13 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 14:39:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Dust Cover Fit
References: <8CB6A2EA-0C85-4C3C-A26C-186AF473F7CB@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2F2DDE9D-D942-4474-B440-1BB54513D7D1@aol.com>



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Date: February 26, 2020 at 2:20:35 PM EST
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Subject: Re:  [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit
> 
> ?Went to the garage. Dust caps measured. All 2.00 inches or less
> Bore of drum brake 2.013 inches
> Bore of early disc brake hub 1.895
> Perry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Feb 26, 2020, at 1:37 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> I hate to keep bombing the list with what seems to be a problem daily, but looking for advice.  As a final assembly part of my front hubs the dust cover grease cap is supposed to be driven into the extended spline hub.  I have the correct cups for this(according to the Moss catalog), but I cannot get them to go inside the hub without great difficulty.  I measured them to find out why.  The outer diameter of the grease cup is .002 over two inches in diameter.  The inner diameter of the spline hub extension is 1.880 in diameter.  That's over 20 thou difference.  That is hardly an interference fit.  It will take a great effort to shove this into place and I am afraid if I do, it won't come back out.  How difficult should it be to push the grease cup into place?  I have also been given advice to just leave them out as the knock offs will cover the inside of the hubs.  That would probably be alright in the grand scheme of things, but just wondering what others have done when, and if they ran into this problem.
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> 
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Feb 26 12:40:21 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 14:40:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Dust cover
References: <F0D418EE-5E4A-407F-8A0F-B786CDE5ABEF@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DF553770-0752-4A08-A79E-FB918CD484D6@aol.com>



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Date: February 26, 2020 at 2:37:13 PM EST
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Subject: Dust cover
> 
> ?
> Mike 
> My measurements were on multiple original used parts. If your hubs are replacement parts all bets are off. Moss shows (my old catalog) two grease cups for wire wheel cars. The change point is on the BJ8 with all earlier wire wheel cars using the same cup. 
> Perry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 26 12:49:40 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 19:49:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit
In-Reply-To: <fc9d7871-f679-9906-f5f3-623107e67036@comcast.net>
References: <694860534.945829.1582742176736.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <694860534.945829.1582742176736@mail.yahoo.com>
 <fc9d7871-f679-9906-f5f3-623107e67036@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1291596814.1008029.1582746580880@mail.yahoo.com>

 No, just too big for the 3000 disc splined hub.Mike M

    On Wednesday, February 26, 2020, 11:06:47 AM PST, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
  
Are they out of round?
 
 On 2/26/2020 10:36 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
  
 
 I hate to keep bombing the list with what seems to be a problem daily, but looking for advice.? As a final assembly part of my front hubs the dust cover grease cap is supposed to be driven into the extended spline hub.? I have the correct cups for this(according to the Moss catalog), but I cannot get them to go inside the hub without great difficulty.? I measured them to find out why.? The outer diameter of the grease cup is .002 over two inches in diameter.? The inner diameter of the spline hub extension is 1.880 in diameter.? That's over 20 thou difference.? That is hardly an interference fit.? It will take a great effort to shove this into place and I am afraid if I do, it won't come back out.? How difficult should it be to push the grease cup into place?? I have also been given advice to just leave them out as the knock offs will cover the inside of the hubs.? That would probably be alright in the grand scheme of things, but just wondering what others have done when, and if they ran into this problem. Mike MacLean
   
  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 26 13:35:57 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 20:35:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit - Update
References: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>

I just got off the phone with Moss technical.? Steve answered after a short wait on hold.? He took the time to pull the dust covers and the same splined hubs I have from stock to measure them.? The same part numbers as my "oversize" grease cup covers that are now in stock are the correct size for the splined hubs I have!? He measured one of the covers outer diameter at about 1.885".? To further make this a good thing, he is going to credit my account the $50+ of the original cost of the wrong size cups I have, even though I bought them back in 2017.? Usually you have only one year to return an item to Moss.?? He has no explanation for the grease cups that are .020 too big.? Maybe a different manufacturer?? In any case I ordered a set a few days ago hoping they would be a different size even though they are the same part number.? I was just going to send them directly back if not right.? According to Steve, if they were pulled just a couple of days ago they should be correct.? We'll see.? Supposed to be in the mail today.? I will let you guys know later today if they fit because I know you are just on pins and needles about the outcome of this tragedy. ;^)Mike MacLean
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Wed Feb 26 14:04:28 2020
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 16:04:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Replacing a choke cable
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V7dwMN9VQ5L-AR2YgpkfF+rQxLQya7zjdXfC3-3OLvkEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly in
the dash of my BJ8.  I thank everyone who responded with some great helpful
advice.  This is what I did.

I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly
straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable
hole.  I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it,
and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath.  Those kinks
created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long
assembly.

I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash. I followed one
responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it
onto the coat hanger behind the dash.  This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded
it's full length.  Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger.  The
M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash
choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash.

I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger.  It
was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back
thru the firewall to the block.  The two M12 washers were now inside the
recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right
in line behind them.  Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a
17MM stubby wrench.  A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one.

Success!  The entire cable assembly was in the dash, union nut tight, thru
the firewall, and inserted into the choke block.  While I was at it, I also
replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.

I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent
possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables
moved very smoothly.  The chokes actually snap back into the off position.

I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash.
The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because
of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the
tach hole.  This union nut eliminates all the other ideas of modified
sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down
under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.

Fred
63 BJ7 deceased
66 BJ8
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb 26 14:20:24 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 10:20:24 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit - Update
In-Reply-To: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJiqogk==hScJnajG4jBYp3Zh5s2-v=jXGKT=JN=eEU3g@mail.gmail.com>

Great to hear of the helpful tech support from Moss BUT I am always
concerned when any company uses their customers to do their quality
control.
I have wasted many, many hours and lots of $ working with inferior
reproduction parts and for just that reason will ALWAYS opt for good used
originals even if they require substantial amounts of reconditioning.

M

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 9:36 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I just got off the phone with Moss technical.  Steve answered after a
> short wait on hold.  He took the time to pull the dust covers and the same
> splined hubs I have from stock to measure them.  The same part numbers as
> my "oversize" grease cup covers that are now in stock are the correct size
> for the splined hubs I have!  He measured one of the covers outer diameter
> at about 1.885".  To further make this a good thing, he is going to credit
> my account the $50+ of the original cost of the wrong size cups I have,
> even though I bought them back in 2017.  Usually you have only one year to
> return an item to Moss.   He has no explanation for the grease cups that
> are .020 too big.  Maybe a different manufacturer?  In any case I ordered a
> set a few days ago hoping they would be a different size even though they
> are the same part number.  I was just going to send them directly back if
> not right.  According to Steve, if they were pulled just a couple of days
> ago they should be correct.  We'll see.  Supposed to be in the mail today.
> I will let you guys know later today if they fit because I know you are
> just on pins and needles about the outcome of this tragedy. ;^)
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Feb 26 14:27:51 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 10:27:51 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Replacing a choke cable
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V7dwMN9VQ5L-AR2YgpkfF+rQxLQya7zjdXfC3-3OLvkEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V7dwMN9VQ5L-AR2YgpkfF+rQxLQya7zjdXfC3-3OLvkEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+PZXPrMTBF79wCtCTi=xoSNjCGrzdsxv1a2cC1M8Xi2A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Fred, I admire your union nut idea which, as you say, will make it a lot
easier to re-tighten the choke in the wood dash.
I had forgotten that many years ago I wrote a blog posting on that very
subject which may be of help to others.
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/

M

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 10:15 AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly
> in the dash of my BJ8.  I thank everyone who responded with some great
> helpful advice.  This is what I did.
>
> I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly
> straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable
> hole.  I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it,
> and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath.  Those kinks
> created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long
> assembly.
>
> I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash. I followed one
> responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it
> onto the coat hanger behind the dash.  This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded
> it's full length.  Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger.  The
> M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash
> choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash.
>
> I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger.  It
> was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back
> thru the firewall to the block.  The two M12 washers were now inside the
> recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right
> in line behind them.  Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a
> 17MM stubby wrench.  A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one.
>
> Success!  The entire cable assembly was in the dash, union nut tight, thru
> the firewall, and inserted into the choke block.  While I was at it, I also
> replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.
>
> I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent
> possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables
> moved very smoothly.  The chokes actually snap back into the off position.
>
> I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash.
> The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because
> of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the
> tach hole.  This union nut eliminates all the other ideas of modified
> sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down
> under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7 deceased
> 66 BJ8
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Feb 26 15:45:03 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:45:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit - Update
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJiqogk==hScJnajG4jBYp3Zh5s2-v=jXGKT=JN=eEU3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJiqogk==hScJnajG4jBYp3Zh5s2-v=jXGKT=JN=eEU3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <561372366.1099656.1582757103747@mail.yahoo.com>

Well, I got the replacements in the mail today.? While they are smaller in diameter than the grease cups I already had, they are still too big.? I will be looking for some used originals now.? Unless someone on the list has a couple of used originals they would sell, I may just leave them out and let the knock off cover the hole.Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Feb 26, 2020 at 1:20 PM, Michael Salter<michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:   Great to hear of the helpful tech support from Moss BUT I am always concerned when any company uses their customers to do their quality control. 
I have wasted many, many hours and lots of $ working with inferior reproduction parts andfor just that reason will ALWAYS opt for good used originals even if they require substantial amounts of reconditioning. 
M

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 9:36 AM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

I just got off the phone with Moss technical.? Steve answered after a short wait on hold.? He took the time to pull the dust covers and the same splined hubs I have from stock to measure them.? The same part numbers as my "oversize" grease cup covers that are now in stock are the correct size for the splined hubs I have!? He measured one of the covers outer diameter at about 1.885".? To further make this a good thing, he is going to credit my account the $50+ of the original cost of the wrong size cups I have, even though I bought them back in 2017.? Usually you have only one year to return an item to Moss.?? He has no explanation for the grease cups that are .020 too big.? Maybe a different manufacturer?? In any case I ordered a set a few days ago hoping they would be a different size even though they are the same part number.? I was just going to send them directly back if not right.? According to Steve, if they were pulled just a couple of days ago they should be correct.? We'll see.? Supposed to be in the mail today.? I will let you guys know later today if they fit because I know you are just on pins and needles about the outcome of this tragedy. ;^)Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Feb 26 17:19:01 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 00:19:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Dust Cover Fit - Update
In-Reply-To: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <509854944.1012008.1582749357320.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <509854944.1012008.1582749357320@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432409705178E572FE63B0DA5EB0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I'm thinking the difference may be in the hub itself. The new ones I put on several years ago appeared to be quite a bit thicker material than the originals.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554


Sent from my iPad

On Feb 26, 2020, at 13:36, "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:

I just got off the phone with Moss technical.  Steve answered after a short wait on hold.  He took the time to pull the dust covers and the same splined hubs I have from stock to measure them.  The same part numbers as my "oversize" grease cup covers that are now in stock are the correct size for the splined hubs I have!  He measured one of the covers outer diameter at about 1.885".  To further make this a good thing, he is going to credit my account the $50+ of the original cost of the wrong size cups I have, even though I bought them back in 2017.  Usually you have only one year to return an item to Moss.   He has no explanation for the grease cups that are .020 too big.  Maybe a different manufacturer?  In any case I ordered a set a few days ago hoping they would be a different size even though they are the same part number.  I was just going to send them directly back if not right.  According to Steve, if they were pulled just a couple of days ago they should be correct.  We'll see.  Supposed to be in the mail today.  I will let you guys know later today if they fit because I know you are just on pins and needles about the outcome of this tragedy. ;^)
Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Feb 27 09:56:56 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 08:56:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2020
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4Wda2csMBDDb_9eP4V2shbu-XvO2yyQFQ43TT5B2oYCQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am heading down to attend Conclave in Crystal River.  Is anyone else from
the list attending?  If so a meet-up might be nice.  (I asked this over on
BCF and--surprisingly--got no responses.)

Best--Michael Oritt
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Feb 27 11:49:33 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 18:49:33 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2020
Message-ID: <59030b46-ca41-404d-b65d-0e5ffc2b0f9d@me.com>

I'll respond, but I'm not going. So have my fun for me! I did make it to Deadwood, without a car, but it was one of the best events I've been to so far. Hope this one measures up! (But how could it not?)
Enjoy
Steven Kingsbury
Not running yet, but stay tuned!

On February 27, 2020 at 8:57 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:


I am heading down to attend Conclave in Crystal River.? Is anyone else from the list attending?? If so a meet-up might be nice.? (I asked this over on BCF and--surprisingly--got no responses.)


Best--Michael Oritt
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Suggested annual donation $12.75

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Feb 27 12:26:52 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 14:26:52 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 Rear End Bits
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1582831617.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Have an early  unit sitting in the garage.  4.125 gear set in the pumpkin, axle housing with stepdown diameter tubes and 4 bolt axels, end plates but no brake parts.  
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Feb 27 16:18:55 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 10:18:55 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Clive Cussler
Message-ID: <00d301d5edc4$48d48d80$da7da880$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Just read that author Clive Cussler died last Monday.

 

He was quite a car collector and at one time in his collection he had a
100/6.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Feb 27 16:58:46 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 15:58:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clive Cussler
In-Reply-To: <00d301d5edc4$48d48d80$da7da880$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00d301d5edc4$48d48d80$da7da880$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <299801d5edc9$db3e72d0$91bb5870$@roadrunner.com>

I had the opportunity to tour his collection in Arvada, CO a few years ago.
His cars were often part of his novels.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2020 3:19 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Clive Cussler

 

Hello

 

Just read that author Clive Cussler died last Monday.

 

He was quite a car collector and at one time in his collection he had a
100/6.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Feb 27 18:19:18 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:19:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clive Cussler
In-Reply-To: <299801d5edc9$db3e72d0$91bb5870$@roadrunner.com>
References: <00d301d5edc4$48d48d80$da7da880$@tpg.com.au>
 <299801d5edc9$db3e72d0$91bb5870$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5DOCtVZ1q0XaN0rzbHEpqB-hcEi3EPobY968EWst0F=Q@mail.gmail.com>

I just got a notice of his passing and this from "Friends of the Hunley"
with which he was involved:

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&shva=1#inbox/FMfcgxwGDWwJtjFGwhWnfqJzDTVrtxnG

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 3:59 PM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> I had the opportunity to tour his collection in Arvada, CO a few years
> ago.  His cars were often part of his novels.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Patrick
> & Caroline Quinn
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 27, 2020 3:19 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Clive Cussler
>
>
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> Just read that author Clive Cussler died last Monday.
>
>
>
> He was quite a car collector and at one time in his collection he had a
> 100/6.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Feb 28 14:41:49 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:41:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ID Mystery Parts
Message-ID: <008801d5ee7f$e25339a0$a6f9ace0$@gmail.com>

All:

 

Can someone ID the part in the two pictures attached? I found it in a box
with a bunch of old BJ-8 parts that came from the prior owner, but it could
be from another car. It's a steel plate with foam on one side and vinyl on
the other, in case that's not clear from the pictures.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller



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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Feb 28 14:45:49 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:45:49 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ID side curtains
Message-ID: <009001d5ee80$71622660$54267320$@gmail.com>

All ? can someone ID the side curtains in the picture attached? These came with my now departed BT-7, but did not fit that car?  I am looking to part with them, but figure the first step is knowing what I am offering for sale! ?

 

Thanks in advance,

----------------

All the best,

Al Fuller

 



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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 28 14:48:53 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 21:48:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] ID Mystery Parts
In-Reply-To: <008801d5ee7f$e25339a0$a6f9ace0$@gmail.com>
References: <008801d5ee7f$e25339a0$a6f9ace0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462C4DDE0A7C338FCCAE31ED1E80@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Al,
These are part of the side panels that attach to the door posts, just at the back of the doors. These are the front part of the panels on a BJ7/BJ8 and at the rear of this piece, the board was originally attached with rivets.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: alfuller194 at gmail.com<mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>
Sent: February 28, 2020 3:43 PM
To: 'Healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] ID Mystery Parts

All:

Can someone ID the part in the two pictures attached? I found it in a box with a bunch of old BJ-8 parts that came from the prior owner, but it could be from another car? It?s a steel plate with foam on one side and vinyl on the other, in case that?s not clear from the pictures.

Thanks in advance,

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller
[A picture containing floor, ground, indoor, skating  Description automatically generated][A picture containing ground, indoor, floor, ramp  Description automatically generated]

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Feb 28 14:50:54 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:50:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] ID Mystery Parts
In-Reply-To: <008801d5ee7f$e25339a0$a6f9ace0$@gmail.com>
References: <008801d5ee7f$e25339a0$a6f9ace0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <070901d5ee81$273479c0$759d6d40$@rr.com>

It's the front (metal) part of the rear seat side panel.  The metal part is
attached just behind the seat.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
alfuller194 at gmail.com
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2020 4:42 PM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: [Healeys] ID Mystery Parts

 

All:

 

Can someone ID the part in the two pictures attached? I found it in a box
with a bunch of old BJ-8 parts that came from the prior owner, but it could
be from another car. It's a steel plate with foam on one side and vinyl on
the other, in case that's not clear from the pictures.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

A picture containing floor, ground, indoor, skating

Description automatically generatedA picture containing ground, indoor,
floor, ramp

Description automatically generated

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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Feb 29 08:44:32 2020
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Feb 2020 15:44:32 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Land Rover Calendar
Message-ID: <20200229.104432.9811.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>

I have a Land Rover World Show calendar from 1999. It is made of mylar(?), about 2 1/2 feet square, in excellent condition. To the first response for shipping cost ( in a tube mailer NC). Cheers,Doug
____________________________________________________________
Urologist Tells Men To "Fix" Their ED With This New Trick!
Med Journal
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5e5a86ffaca3b6ff3dddst04duc
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