[Healeys] FW: Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter

Sat Dec 12 09:43:43 MST 2020

My starter was very sluggish but would grudgingly start my car. As part of a carburator rebuild project I noticed that they got hot and were tingly to the touch. I thought that there was a  short somewhere. At the same time I decided to also check the starter and I noticed that the DPO had left the ground strap off. Problem solved. Started tike a champ from then on and no more tingles at the carbs.

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of john harper
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2020 10:51 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter

Bob

The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst case I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo cable. The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at this connection that heated up the strap until it became open circuit. Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to earth and this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been anywhere where there was an electrical connection from the engine to the chassis.

On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off).

On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote:

I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance.  Just a thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds.

John O'Brien

'61 bugeye (Lucy)

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.

-------- Original message --------

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys  <mailto:healeys at autox.teaadycheckedm.net> <healeys at autox.teaady checked m.net> 

Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) 

To: Bob Begani  <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> <rfbegani at gmail.com> 

Cc: Ahealey help  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> 

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter 

Bob--

As said you can install the starter from under the car.  Though the adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct  set-up.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> > wrote:

You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating.  the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.  So I will replace the starter.  Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others.  What source do you recomend.?  Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.  Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine?  As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. 

Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump.  When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle.  This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc.  what  oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement?

Regards,

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